Radical Vertical

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Andy Lee Fashion Words by Andy Lee F for Fashion Film is the Future 2 HEARING INNER VOICES THAT AREN’T MEN’S. Yes, sometimes being ‘whimsical’ is a fallback of the unthoughtful but at least it’s not some middleaged man sitting in a car looking silently into space for 5 minutes. After watching any random number of fashion films you realise how few female voiceovers you hear elsewhere, especially in mainstream cinema. 5 TALKING TO PEOPLE THAT DIDN’T THINK THEY’D EVER MAKE A FILM TELLING ME THEY’RE WINNING AN AWARD FOR DIRECTING ONE. Studying filmmaking is wonderful, film schools are great, cameras are fascinating but there’s more to a film than lenses, dollies and the latest 4K blah blah. The democratising of production through the lower cost of equipment and mobile technology has allowed people to break through in ways that would have been unheard of 20 years ago. 8 WATCHING MORE SHORT FORM FILMMAKING BEING CELEBRATED. The global Fashion Film community is buzzing, from LA to Bucharest, committed and passionate people are cheering on each others’ work. Gathering to discuss and understand film in different more open ways than you might see at traditional film festivals. Shooting a written script, or having a music track to work from is arguably often easier than formulating and telling the story of a brand or a garment and it’s heartening to see work so widely lauded and supported. 10 reasons to make a fashion film & 10 ways to make it a good one 3 BEING ABLE TO FOLLOW A THREAD THAT’S MORE DIVERSE IN CONTENT THAN MUSIC PROMOS. Music Video, in their heyday were the last time short film met new platforms to the same extent as Fashion Film in the internet age. Yes, they should sell product, but there’s a freedom to many Fashion Film productions that naturally crosses over into other creative spaces. The greatest of the most celebrated gatefold double 70’s rock concept albums, or enormo-budget 80’s music promo have nothing on the scale and depth of Beyonce’s Lemonade for instance and it’s this genre-defying embrace of style, identity and commerciality that makes the genre exciting. 6 WITNESSING NARRATIVE BEING TAKEN SERIOUSLY. Enough with the models swirling around in fields already - it’s to the 2010s what the slow cross dissolve was to the noughties, or what a band playing ‘live’ on an empty sound stage was to the 80’s and 90’s. Embracing structure and understanding the importance of story has engaged audiences widely. Still, be careful with only furnishing the actors with clothes and then shooting a straight short film. That’s cool, but it’s just a short film. A successful Fashion Film shouldn’t be easily mistaken for anything else. 9 SEEING MORE DIVERSITY. We’re getting there. Are we? It took 73 years before Donyale Luna got the cover of British Vogue, and 82 before Beverly Johnson in America. Fashion Film hasn’t taken as long to traffic in diversity, in multiple perspectives, with multiple influences. But there are still more voices to hear, more stories to tell. Think about how you’re casting and crewing your films. Andy Lee is Subject Leader for Fashion Film Practice at the London School for Fashion 1 NOT HAVING TO REMIND PEOPLE TO ONLY SHOOT LANDSCAPE. 10 years of my life was spent telling fashion photographers to avoid the instinct to turn their camera around for a full length shot. Since we now spend all our time looking at portrait, vertical screens, I can finally shut up and they can get a full length shot against a roll of backdrop without masking it off in post production. Everything’s a screen, fill them how you please. 4 SEEING THE WORDS “DIRECTED BY” FOLLOWED BY A WOMAN’S NAME. Of course women have contributed a huge amount to filmmaking during the century of cinema, often unsung (look up the editors credit for Jaws, Memento, ET, The Force Awakens, Bonnie & Clyde, Lawrence of Arabia and pretty much all of Scorsese and Tarantino for starters) but film sets, have been so painfully a male-dominated domain. 7 WITNESSING PRODUCTION TECHNIQUES BEING TAKEN SERIOUSLY. Successfully understanding film production techniques is enabling better stories and more complex visuals (and drones help too). Mostly gone are the days of rocking up with a DSLR and just shooting something that moves. But though approaches to crewing and storyboards and permissions etc. are very important and over a century old, don’t forget to develop in ways fit for the 21st Century. Crews can be more nimble and multi-task sometimes, just pay them and feed them properly. But perhaps don’t have a third of your running time as credits, I know it makes it look like ‘a film’, but that was before 24/7 connectivity, save your time for some more visuals! 10 KNOWING THAT THE FUTURE OF IMMERSIVE MEDIA SUITS FASHION FILM LIKE A GLOVE. As the age of mixed reality quickly approaches, the themes of identity and the intimacy of clothing puts fashion and technology centre stage. We’re on the brink of a next generation of visual storytelling - it’s Prada not Panasonic that’ll be putting the cameras on our bodies in the 21st Century and it means capital F Fashion Film is the future. F FOR FASHION FILM IS THE FUTURE
From Los Angeles with Los Angeles Fashion Film Festival: Inclusion LAFFF Welcome to Radical Vertical, and by extension, the LA Fashion Film Festival community. Essentially LAFFF in print, Radical Vertical chronicles inclusive views of a diverse group of industry influencers and key figures. What started out a year ago as a coffee discussion with Leslie Bedolla in Berlin about style, life, spirituality, and the need to create community in LA, has culminated in this first edition of LAFFF. Our goal is simple: to build an open, creative and inclusive society that connects like-minded brands, filmmakers and consumers. Everywhere we look, boundaries are disappearing. The future is inclusive, and we are all connected, especially you, the consumer. LAFFF is one of the cultural initiatives by kulturspace—the LA & Berlin-based creative consultancy I founded five years ago—and a nonprofit project by The kulturspace Foundation. The kulturspace DNA can be summed up in three simple words: collaborative, creative, and organic. Besides LAFFF, we’ve spearheaded and produced cultural and creative projects such as the Berlin Student Film Festival, Behance Adobe Portfolio Reviews, Show Us Your Type LA & Berlin, and the U-Bahn Berlin book, with more in the making. The idea behind LAFFF is to shine the spotlight on LA as an international fashion and culture capital, besides advocating for greater inclusion and diversity in the industry. A lot of selfless work has gone into realizing this vision, and we couldn’t have done it without my wonderful partners: Leslie Bedolla, Founding Partner; Holger Homann, Publishing Partner; Alex Holz, Partnerships & Business Partner; and the rest of the team who’ve worked tirelessly to realize this grassroots concept. On behalf of the team, advisors, sponsors, and jurors, we are thrilled to bring fashion film to the doorstep of the entertainment capital of the world: Los Angeles. We look forward to connecting with you in person at the festival. Creatively yours, Justin Raymond Merino Founder, kulturspace FROM LOS ANGELES WITH LAFFF
Page 1 and 2: RADICAL V ERTI C A L Walter Pfeiffe
Page 5 and 6: WITH WALTER PFEIFFER WALTER PFEIFFE
Page 7: T H E R E I S O N L Y A W A Y T H A
Page 10 and 11: THE TECHNICOLOR EXPERIENCE CENTER T
Page 12 and 13: LOS ANGELES A new LA concept studio
Page 14 and 15: What’s that jacket, Margiela?* *
Page 17: MARCELL VON BERLIN Fashion Words by
Page 20 and 21: 1 8
Page 22 and 23: @IsabelitaVirtual Fashion Interview
Page 24 and 25: Who’s NEXT? THE NEW BREED OF RUNW
Page 26 and 27: Ménage à trois - Threesome 2 4 M
Page 28 and 29: 2 6 MÉNAGE À TROIS - THREESOME
Page 30 and 31: Shaun Ross : Rebel with a cause 2 8
Page 32 and 33: Chez Arman Our Man of Music 3 0 In
Page 34: Material Girls 3 2 The Vintage Glam
Page 39 and 40: 1 8
Page 41 and 42: Chris Francis Fashion Interview by
Page 43 and 44: your life to earn money go do it an
Page 45 and 46: Jamie Luca People Interview by Holg
Page 47: I AM NOT FROM YOUR TRIBE
Page 51 and 52: Illustration by Zohar Winner EXHIBI
Page 53: Dotan Saguy Portfolio Photos by Dot
Page 61 and 62: Fleurs 5 9 Mal LES FLEURS DU MAL
Page 67 and 68: The Real McCoy “People are best i
Page 69: THE REAL MCCOY
Page 72: THE REAL MCCOY
Page 75 and 76: SNEAKER PIG & SOCK MONKEY
Page 77 and 78: SNEAKER PIG & SOCK MONKEY
Page 79 and 80: different animals, and sometimes th
Page 81 and 82: Photos by Holger Homann Styling by
Page 83 and 84: 2 stripe shirt COMME DES GARCONS Ne
Page 85 and 86: Trousers BALENCIAGA Sweater BALENCI
Page 87 and 88: 1 7 Parka L’OFFICINE GENERALE Buc
Page 89 and 90: Love, like the light, silently wrap
Page 91 and 92: Patricia LOVE, LIKE THE LIGHT, SILE
Page 93 and 94: Dylan LOVE, LIKE THE LIGHT, SILENTL
Page 95: Laura Aguilar Portfolio Photos by L
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LA Flagship Store Opening November
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