WebNovDec18

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Nonya
www.westendermagazine.com | 45
Image I Gregor Reid
Reviewed by
Roberto Parrucci
Discovering Nonya’s menu reminded
me of what my personal food guru
Anthony Bourdain used to say about
East Asian cuisine, ‘the crunchy and tender,
the sweet and salty, the hard and soft, the
warm and cold – all mixed to emphasize
the philosophical orientation behind Asian
culture’.
The interior is beautifully laid out, with
classic Southeast Asian touches that really
give a sense of how much work has gone into
achieving the best of west meets east.
From the mottle-green table tops to the
backroom with fluttering palms and classic
rattan lighting, I instantly had the feeling
of being one of Graham Greene’s stuffy
European expats supplanted in a foreign
land.
Helped by the attentive waiting staff I
opted for some spinach and bamboo shoot
dumplings with chilli soy sauce on the side.
Aside from being massive, the dumplings
on their own were delicate in texture with
crunchy bits of bamboo shoots giving bite
among the tender spinach.
I followed with grilled coconut chicken
with gravy and rice on the side. I must say,
in terms of spice, I expected ‘the beast from
the east’, but a storm of flavour didn’t quite
materialise. Yet, I also appreciated the quality
of the ingredients. The chicken was perfectly
grilled, with the gravy and relish on the side
adding a beautiful oriental touch.
My choice of desert was the definite
standout here. Sticky rice pudding topped
with mango strips sprinkled with sesame
seeds and served with coconut cream on the
side. Not overly sweet, and with a multitude
of textures on one plate – a real delight.
Each dish comes with its own separate
sauce, which aren’t removed after each
course. You can either choose to find it
confusing, or open your mind to the new
possibilities in front of you. It’s a potential
food orgy in prospect; leave your keys in the
bowl at the door.
Chatting with the waitress while drinking
a Jungle Love (mekhong, citrus, pandan,
whites and poppy seeds) I asked about
where all these taste inspirations came from.
She explained that Nonya is the ‘little baby’ of
a half-Asian owner together with a half-Thai
partner who supervise the cuisine, borrowing
the best their childhood flavours and tastes
have to offer.
It struck me that this is the real recipe for
making great food. Passion in what you do is
essential if you want others to buy into your
idea and keep coming back time and time
again.
At Nonya you get just that – a cultural
fusion baked in with a wonderful dance for
the taste buds. When all is said and done,
everyone likes a dance, right?
Nonya
10 Claremont Street G3 7HA
0141 221 6200
nonyaglasgow.co.uk