january-2019

22 / TRAVEL / Seychelles
TRAVEL / 23
FLYING DUE east from Nairobi to the Seychelles islands,
my imagination is filled with vibrant Technicolor images of
exotic nature and landscapes, and luxurious resorts overlooking
some of the world’s finest palm-fringed beaches. What surprises
me, however, is that the most colourful spot of all stands in the
heart of the capital, Victoria, as a monument to the diversity of
history and culture that has passed through the islands of this
very young and tiny country.
Just off Revolution Avenue in the tiny capital city on the
main island – Mahé – the Hindu temple Arul Mihu Navasakthi
Vinayagar ascends from the ground in layers of decorative
figurines depicting Hindu gods and deities in bright blue, yellow
and pink. Named after the Hindu god of safety and prosperity,
the temple is a reminder that these tiny isles lay on ocean trade
routes between India, Africa and the Middle East. It turns out
that the nation’s short history is as rich in culture as it is in
flora and fauna.
Even the names on the tourist map of the town have me
enthralled: Sham Peng Tong Plaza, the Pierre Poivre Statue and
the Victoria Clock Tower all speak of the country’s heritage.
The Seychelles are named after Jean Moreau de Séchelles,
former King of France Louis XV’s Minister of Finance during
French rule, before the islands were passed to the British (but
were settled by native Africans). My self-made walking tour of
the tiny capital quickly gives me a sense of the pace and heartbeat
of a nation – relaxed, proud and confident – that’s like a
Caribbean island in different waters.
The Victoria Clock Tower, which dates back to the colonial
era and was built as a memorial to Queen Victoria, has been a
focal point since its construction 115 years ago; the Seychelles
has exactly one island for every one of those years. The 115
islands, which form an archipelago, stretch from the fabled
UNESCO-listed coral-rich Aldabra – discovered centuries ago
by Arab traders – to private eco-islands such as Frégate Island
Private, and the modern Instagram star island of La Digue,
where I’m keen to see if the Anse Source d’Argent rock beach
lives up to expectations.
A TALE OF TWO BEACHES
Before venturing off to islands afar, I decide to split my
Mahé experience between north and south, from the secluded
and sedate Vista Do Mar in the north, to the truly splendid
Petite Anse bay farther south. And that means getting four
wheels; a decision that turns out to be an unanticipated stroke
of genius, since I quickly discover that Mahé is a joy for drivers.
Full of winding mountainside roads enveloped in thick jungle,
it’s a challenge to avoid stopping to admire all the panoramic
views and filling umpteen memory cards with idyllic seascape
images. >
“I swap four wheels for two, and quickly find myself
saying ‘hello’ to fellow cyclists while riding
around town”
Where to stay
Four Seasons Resort Seychelles and
Desroches Island
A jewel in the Four Seasons crown, FS
Seychelles has a new sister on the nearby
Desroches Island too. Petite Anse, Mahé.
fourseasons.com
Frégate Island Private
Frégate offers a private island that has
pioneered sustainability and the ecolodge
concept. Frégate Island Private. fregate.com
Le Domaine de L’Orangeraie
The only high-end option on La Digue is ideal
for honeymooners, and has a pool bar well
worth a visit, even if you can’t get a room.
Anse Sévère, La Digue. orangeraie.sc
Le Repaire Boutique
Pearched on the beachfront, this hotel is
close to the centre of town. The staff can
help arrange excursions. Anse La Réunion,
La Digue. lerepaireseychelles.com
Above: Common
White Terns (top);
Kids riding their bikes
to school, La Digue
(bottom left); Creole
House, La Digue
(bottom right). Right:
Anse Soleil tropical
beach, Mahé (top);
Denis Private Island
(bottom left); Tropical
fruit (bottom right).
Robert Harding, Alamy