UJ#5 Paracas
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BETWEEN PARACAS AND NASCA<br />
INVESTMENT ALONG THE SOUTHERN COAST<br />
NATURAL RESERVE OF LIFE<br />
PARACAS<br />
SPECIAL: ARCHAEOLOGY IN PERU<br />
Interview with Andrés Álvarez Calderón,<br />
Executive Director of the Larco Museum<br />
/1
CRAFTING MAGNIFICENT<br />
EXPERIENCES IN PERU<br />
ONE GUEST AT A TIME
Unique clay and rock formation on Peru’s Pacific Coast, reachable only at low tide.<br />
limatours.com.pe<br />
ujtravelmagazine.com<br />
/limatoursperu
ÍNDEX<br />
GENERAL DIRECTOR, ULTIMATE JOURNEYS<br />
EDUARDO PEDRAZA<br />
DIRECTOR OF CONTENT<br />
MARÍA EUGENIA DE ALIAGA / KM CERO<br />
GERARDO SUGAY / LIMA TOURS<br />
EDITOR<br />
RODRIGO CABRERA / KM CERO<br />
COORDINATION<br />
CAROLINA SAN ROMÁN / KM CERO<br />
DIEGO GUERRERO / LIMA TOURS<br />
ART DIRECTION<br />
KM CERO<br />
PHOTO EDITOR<br />
CHRISTIAN DECLERCQ / KM CERO<br />
GRAPHIC DESIGN<br />
MIGUEL SANTAYA<br />
INFOGRAPHS<br />
SANDRA FLORIÁN<br />
WRITERS<br />
IÑIGO MANEIRO<br />
PAOLA MIGLIO<br />
DIEGO OLIVER<br />
TRANSLATION AND CORRECTION OF TEXTS<br />
ANNE MONCREIFF DE ARRARTE<br />
28<br />
14<br />
THE NATIONAL PARACAS<br />
RESERVE<br />
Biological diversity<br />
38<br />
PHOTOGRAPHERS<br />
RODRIGO CABRERA<br />
CHRISTIAN DECLERCQ<br />
CHRISTOPHER KLEIHEGE<br />
IÑIGO MANEIRO<br />
DIEGO OLIVER<br />
JAIME REY DE CASTRO<br />
LUIS REPETTO<br />
JAQUES RONSTAND<br />
KM CERO<br />
PROMPERÚ<br />
FUN IN PARACAS<br />
Info graph
ARCHAEOLOGY IN PERU<br />
Special<br />
48<br />
44<br />
ÍNDICE<br />
6/ Editorial<br />
8/ News and Current Events<br />
12/ Tips<br />
14/ The National <strong>Paracas</strong> Reserve<br />
Incomparable biological diversity<br />
28/ Between <strong>Paracas</strong> and Nasca<br />
Investment on the Southern Coast<br />
36/ Fun in <strong>Paracas</strong><br />
Info graph<br />
38/ Interview with Gabriel Álvarez<br />
Deputy General Manager<br />
of Aranwa “By the end of<br />
this year, Aranwa will have five<br />
hotel properties and approximately<br />
400 rooms.”<br />
44/ The Pisco Route<br />
New products in development<br />
48/ A Long History<br />
A journey to churches, haciendas,<br />
lost cities and the enigmatic<br />
Nasca Lines<br />
56/ I Am Peru: Native Cotton<br />
Info graph<br />
66<br />
58<br />
58/ Interview with Andrés<br />
Álvarez Calderón,<br />
Executive Director of the<br />
Larco Museum<br />
“We want to tell amusing and<br />
interesting historical stories that<br />
are based in diverse academic<br />
study.”<br />
66/ A Focus of Civilisation:<br />
For thousands of years<br />
Peru has been home to cultures<br />
that continue to amaze the world<br />
72/ Ancient Pre Hispanic Kingdoms<br />
Info graph<br />
74<br />
74/ Cultural Biodiversity<br />
Peru: One of the 13 Mega<br />
diverse nations in the World<br />
80/ Agenda<br />
82/ Expat<br />
/5
EDITORIAL<br />
Pre-Inca site minutes from the centre of Cusco, yet never crowded - Peru<br />
Dear reader,<br />
Peru has been called - deservedly so we believe - the world’s largest outdoor museum, thanks to its<br />
ancient and vast heritage manifested in the form of fabled citadels, sacred pyramids, royal tombs, farming<br />
terraces, giant calendars, cosmic temples, imperial roads, stone aqueducts, military fortresses and trading<br />
centres located in deserts and valleys along our Pacific coast, mountain tops and high Andean plateaus, cloud<br />
forests and low lands of the Amazon basin.<br />
This issue of ULTIMATE JOURNEYS - Travel in Peru, focuses on our archaeological treasures, dating back over<br />
5,000 years. It includes an enlightening interview with Andres Alvarez Calderon, who, as Director of the recently<br />
renovated Larco Museum in Lima - home to the country’s best preserved and most complete pre-Columbian<br />
art collection - is one of the few colleagues who understands the importance of fostering that very elusive<br />
partnership between tourism and culture, business and academia, promotion and preservation, in order to<br />
accomplish the sustainable growth and responsible development our industry and our nation require.<br />
The featured destination in this edition is <strong>Paracas</strong>, a National Wildlife Reserve, where nature and history come<br />
together to create an ideal holiday destination. Located in a privileged position on Peru’s southern coast, <strong>Paracas</strong><br />
is also the perfect gateway to the nearby and still enigmatic Nasca Lines, as well as the Ica vineyards, where<br />
the production of Pisco, Peru’s signature brandy, has been a proud tradition of local producers for centuries.<br />
Due to all its attributes, <strong>Paracas</strong> has enjoyed a recent investment boom in new resort hotels and apartment<br />
buildings, airport and seaport facilities, and yachting and adventure travel services. The newest property, to be<br />
opened at the end of 2013, is the Aranwa Hotel. Gabriel Alvarez, Deputy General Manager of Aranwa Hotels,<br />
Resorts and Spas - the youngest and fastest growing upscale hotel chain in Peru, shares with us the vision of<br />
this family-run hospitality and health services conglomerate.<br />
Happy reading and learning!<br />
Your Friends at Lima Tours<br />
OHSAS 18001<br />
BUREAU VERITAS<br />
Certification
NEWS<br />
NEWS<br />
WINNERS OF THE WORLD TRAVEL AWARDS 2013<br />
July 20 the World Travel Awards 2013 were celebrated in Lima.<br />
World Travel Awards, in its 20th year, recognizes companies,<br />
brands and tourist destinations for their high quality products.<br />
This year, Peru received a number of awards including the Best<br />
Culinary Destination in the Region; Jorge Chavez International<br />
Airport as the Best Airport in the Region; and PromPeru for the<br />
Best Tourism Promotion Office in the Region.<br />
Visit www.worldtravelawards.com<br />
PERU HOME TO 11 OF THE BEST HOTELS<br />
IN SOUTH AMERICA<br />
Eleven Peruvian hotels are included on the list of the 25<br />
best hotels in South America, according to the Conde Nast<br />
Traveler Readers Choice Awards. Las Casitas del Colca<br />
Hotel in the Colca Canyon came in at number 2 and also<br />
ranked 55 out of the Best 100 Hotels and Resorts in the<br />
World. Cusco was selected by readers as the second best<br />
of the Top 5 Cities in Central and South America. The Hotel<br />
Tambo del Inka, in the Urubamba Valley outside Cusco,<br />
was selected number 4 in the Top 15 Resorts in Central<br />
and South America.<br />
DAKAR: THE INCA CHALLENGE 2013<br />
Amateur and professional racers arrived to Peru last October for<br />
the 2013 Dakar Series, all vying to classify for the Dakar Rally 2014.<br />
Guilherme Spinelli, car category, Pablo Quintanilla, motorcycles,<br />
and Ignacio Casale, ATVs, were the champions.<br />
Jaime Rey de Castro<br />
III EXPO ADVENTURE, TOURISM AND BOATING FAIR<br />
Lima hosted the 3rd Expo Adventure, Tourism and Boating Fair<br />
from November 7 through 10 on the Costa Verde.<br />
Visit http://www.expoaventura-peru.com
NEWS<br />
NEWS<br />
MISTURA GASTRONOMICAL FESTIVAL<br />
Lima enjoyed the 6th Edition of the Mistura Gastronomical<br />
Festival, the most important food event in Latin America,<br />
September 6 -15. This year, the focus of the event was the<br />
sea and hydro biological resources. At a new, beachfront<br />
locale, Mistura 2012 hosted 500,000 people over 10<br />
days, 24,000 of whom were tourists.<br />
APEGA<br />
I CONTINUE TO BE<br />
The Peruvian documentary Sigo Siendo,<br />
I Continue to Be, won the prize for Best<br />
Documentary at the 2013 Lima Film Festival.<br />
Directed by Peruvian Javier Corcuera, the film<br />
looks inside Peruvian culture through its music.<br />
LA MULA<br />
NEW AIR ROUTES TO NORTHERN PERU<br />
Thanks to an agreement between the regional<br />
governments and Peru’s Air Force, some of the country’s<br />
northern cities now have interconnected air service.<br />
Chachapoyas, Trujillo, Chiclayo, Cajamarca, Tarapoto,<br />
Yurimaguas and Iquitos have interconnecting air service<br />
three days a week – Mondays, Wednesdays and<br />
Saturdays. The cost of tickets between Chachapoyas,<br />
Chiclayo and Trujillo are S/.200. Flights to Tarapoto,<br />
Yurimaguas and Cajamarca are S/.120 and to Iquitos<br />
they are S/. 250.<br />
Rodrigo Cabrera
WINNERS OF THE FIRST ANNUAL TOURISM<br />
CARES GRANTS<br />
The newly formed Peruvian Chapter of Tourism Cares,<br />
whose members include Aranwa Hotels Resorts & Spas,<br />
Coltur, Delfin Cruise The Amazon, Inca Rail, Libertador<br />
Hotels, Resorts & Spas, The Lima Tours Foundation,<br />
Orient Express y Viajes Pacífico have announced the<br />
winners of the first annual Tourism Cares grants. Grants<br />
are awarded to projects judged best at promoting<br />
and preserving Peru’s cultural heritage. Some of the<br />
winning projects include: Archaeology and Community<br />
Development in San Jose de Moro, a project run by<br />
the Catholic University of Peru; Diversification of Tour<br />
Offerings in Andahuaylillas Through Development of<br />
Traditional Resources, a project run by the Universidad<br />
Antonio Ruiz de Montoya; and A Mobile Application for<br />
Museums in Lima’s Historic District, developed by Lima<br />
City Hall. Visit http://turismocuida.blogspot.com for more<br />
information.<br />
Daniel Tarazona<br />
IMPORTANT DISCOVERY IN THE CHAVIN DE HUANTAR<br />
ARCHAEOLOGICAL COMPLEX<br />
In recent excavations, Chavin de Huantar archaeologist<br />
John Rick and Luis Guillermo Lumbreras have discovered<br />
two ornamental, stone heads in excellent condition.<br />
The pieces date back to 200 – 500 a.d. and have large<br />
eyes; noses with wide nostrils and more than 10 snakes<br />
surrounding each one. A hypothesis about these physical<br />
characteristics is that they suggest eyes that are circular<br />
and entering a trance, possibly because of drugs. The<br />
serpents are seen as hallucinations.
TIPS<br />
TIPS<br />
TRADITIONAL PERUVIAN SWEETS FROM PALPA<br />
Halfway between <strong>Paracas</strong> and Nasca is Palpa, an ideal spot to rest and<br />
recharge, and for a visit to Doña María Paz Herrera, a well-known Palpa<br />
cook who is an institution for locals and Peruvians in the know. Ask any<br />
local for directions. Using a traditional recipes from Colonial times, Doña<br />
Maria Paz makes an unforgettable, sweet, mango paste and, during the<br />
season, she stuffs sour oranges and lemons with rich, caramelized milk,<br />
creating tejas, the Peruvian coasts’ best-loved confection. They are a<br />
perfect dessert after a pot roast sandwich made by one of Doña Maria<br />
Paz’s daughters.<br />
Christian Declercq<br />
PERUVIAN MUSEUMS IN ART PROJECT<br />
Art Project was created by Google to help cultural<br />
communities around the world find space to exhibit their<br />
collections on global scale. The effort, which includes 263<br />
museums, includes the digitalized collections of three major<br />
Peruvian museums: The Larco Museum, with 217 pieces,<br />
the MALI, with 164, and Mario Testino’s MATE Museum,<br />
with 27 works available. You can prepare for a visit to Lima<br />
with a look online.<br />
Visit:<br />
http://www.google.com/culturalinstitute/project/art-project<br />
Renzo Giraldo<br />
THE FEAST OF THE CHACCU (HERDING) IN PAMPA GALERAS<br />
During the third week of June, the National Pampas Galeras–Barbara<br />
D’Achille Reserve is celebrating the traditional chaccu, or herding of the<br />
Vicuñas; an ancient Incan ritual designed to harvest the fine Vicuña wool<br />
without harming the animals in the process. The celebration consists of<br />
an involved plan to surround and herd the animals into a corral where<br />
they are shaved, one by one. Typically, the result is somewhere between<br />
120 and 150 kilos of wool.
RESERVE OF LIFE<br />
GEOGRAPHICALLY<br />
SPEAKING, THE PARACAS<br />
NATIONAL RESERVE IS ONE<br />
OF THE MOST SPECTACULAR<br />
PLACES IN PERU.<br />
LOCATED IN ICA, DESERT<br />
COAST OF THE PACIFIC,<br />
REGULAR WINDSTORMS<br />
REVEAL GEOGRAPHIC,<br />
PALAEONTHOLOGIC AND<br />
ARCHAEOLOGICAL SECRETS<br />
FROM THE PAST. EDGING<br />
TOWARDS THE ANDES<br />
IN A DRAMATIC SPREAD<br />
OF BEIGES, PINKS AND<br />
PURPLES, THE ARID DESERT<br />
MEETS THE FRIGID PACIFIC<br />
WATERS HERE, CREATING<br />
A RICH ENVIRONMENT OF<br />
BIOLOGICAL DIVERSITY.<br />
Reserve<br />
of Life<br />
The <strong>Paracas</strong> National Reserve<br />
By<br />
Diego Oliver<br />
Photos<br />
Christian Declercq<br />
Sunbathing: Sea Lions<br />
(Otaria flavescens)<br />
on the shore of San<br />
Gallan island.
15
RESERVE OF LIFE<br />
White Egret<br />
(Egretta thula)<br />
THE PARACAS NATURAL RESERVE IS AN AREA OF ABOUT 113 SQUARE MILES WHERE THE DESERT MEETS THE OCEAN IN AN<br />
EXPLOSION OF LIFE. ALMOST ONE THIRD OF THE RESERVE IS DESERT THAT, MILLIONS OF YEAR AGO, WAS UNDER THE PACIFIC<br />
OCEAN UNTIL THE NASCA AND SOUTH AMERICAN PLATES COLLIDED AND THE ANDES MOUNTAINS WERE BORN.<br />
In this ancient territory characterized by beautiful geological<br />
formations created from water and wind, one can still find<br />
fossils of the whales and dinosaurs that once populated the<br />
region. There also are close to 100 archaeological sites left by the<br />
<strong>Paracas</strong> and Nasca people, both of whom developed societies<br />
based on agriculture, fishing and shellfish collecting. Their<br />
remains attest to societies able to adapt to their environment.<br />
Without doubt, it is the cold, Humboldt Current, densely<br />
inhabited by plankton, that constitutes the base for the complex<br />
food chain that allows a variety of sea animals - from penguins<br />
to whales – to flourish. There are 216 species of birds, between<br />
resident and migratory, 36 mammals, 10 reptile species and<br />
168 species of fish in the <strong>Paracas</strong> Reserve, making it the most<br />
bio diverse coastal area in Peru. Maybe the most surprising<br />
animal that makes an occasional appearance over the desert is<br />
the condor. Periodically, condors fly down to the coast from the<br />
Andes to hunt for marine life. That said, the animals most seen<br />
are foxes, sea lions, penguins, pelicans, seagulls, Inca tern,<br />
guanay cormorant and Andean flamingo, which have white<br />
bodies and red wings, inspiring José de San Martín, who led<br />
Peru`s War of Independence, to create the Peruvian flag.<br />
points along the Peruvian coast where birds congregate and<br />
guano is produced in large amounts. In the end of the 19th<br />
Century, Peruvian guano exportation made economic history<br />
for the country. Unfortunately, is also led to the environmental<br />
destruction of many coastal areas. Today, thanks to the creation<br />
of the Reserve, an effort is being made to find a balance between<br />
conservation and the extraction of this important resource,<br />
creating a sustainable business for Peruvians that also respects<br />
the area’s ecological health.<br />
The <strong>Paracas</strong> National Reserve represents a breath of fresh air<br />
in the face of human development and the growth of cities. The<br />
Reserve allows visitors a chance for an up close look at the<br />
desert, the ocean, the sky and their inhabitants; and, with each<br />
gust of wind, it reminds us that once in the distant past all of<br />
this was untouched.<br />
One of the most popular tourist sites in <strong>Paracas</strong> are the<br />
Ballestas Islands, a group of small islands where a variety of<br />
birds live among a large sea lion colony. The Ballestas also are<br />
a part of the National Reserve of Islands and Guano Points,<br />
a conservation Project that includes 22 small islands and 11<br />
50%<br />
OVER 50% OF ALL SEA<br />
LIONS IN PERU LIVES IN<br />
THE PARACAS NATIONAL<br />
RESERVE.<br />
Above: View of San Gallan Island, one of<br />
the Reserve’s important areas known for<br />
its biodiversity.<br />
Left: Red-Legged Cormorant<br />
(Phalacrocorax gaimardi) with its chick.<br />
Right: Guanay Cormorants are the best<br />
producers of guano, a highly valued,<br />
agricultural fertilizer.<br />
Opposite page: The Peruvian Pelican<br />
reproduces on islands close to the coast<br />
that are bathed in the cold waters of the<br />
Humboldt Current.
17
RESERVE OF LIFE
A group of Andean Flamingos (Phoenicopterus chilensis) searches for food.<br />
/19
RESERVE OF LIFE<br />
AT PARACAS<br />
NATIONAL RESERVE YOU<br />
WILL FIND:<br />
216<br />
SPECIES OF BIRDS,<br />
BETWEEN RESIDENT AND<br />
MIGRATORY<br />
36<br />
SPECIES OF MAMMALS<br />
10<br />
REPTILE SPECIES<br />
168<br />
SPECIES OF FISH<br />
IS ONE OF THE MOST<br />
BIODIVERSE COASTAL<br />
AREAS OF PERU<br />
Above: Humboldt Penguins<br />
(Spheniscus Humboldti): These birds<br />
are increasingly rare and their numbers<br />
continue to decline.<br />
Left: Peruvian Lizard (Microlophus<br />
Peruvianus): This tiny reptile is depicted<br />
in many ancient <strong>Paracas</strong> textiles.<br />
Right: Incan Tern (Larosterna Inca): This<br />
bird is easy to identify because of its<br />
intense red beak and feet.<br />
Opposite page: The leader of the Pack:<br />
A male Sea Lion can weigh up to 300<br />
kilos.
21
RESERVE OF LIFE
Artisan fisherman of Lagunillas.<br />
Next page: The Ballestas Islands, a refuge for marine birds and animals, are adjacent to the <strong>Paracas</strong> National Reserve.<br />
/23
CHRONICLE / CRÓNICA
25
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We not only understand but embrace<br />
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inbound operators can expertly craft adventure travel services visit us at<br />
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ACTIVITY LEVEL<br />
DAY 1 - ZAGREB DAY 4 - uČKAČ<br />
- Hands-on culinary course<br />
DAY 2 - ZAGREB / ZAGORJE<br />
- Fish & food market guided tour<br />
- Štrukli cooking & wine tasting<br />
- Hike through the Zagorje hills<br />
- Traditional Zagorje village meal<br />
DAY 3 - GORSKI KOTAR<br />
- Hands-on foraging tips in Gorski<br />
Kotar<br />
- Tree planting<br />
- Cycling through local villages<br />
- Cooking demonstration of local<br />
surprise specialties<br />
- 2 hour hike of the Učka Nature Park<br />
- ATV tour and wine-tasting in Istria<br />
DAY 5 - OPATIJA<br />
- Exploring Veliki Brijun Island by bike<br />
- Cooking class in Opatija<br />
DAY 6 - PAKlENIcA<br />
- Hiking, Paklenica National Park<br />
- Visit Nin Saltworks Park<br />
- Visit fig plantation, Zadar<br />
DAY 7 - ZADAR<br />
- Prosciutto sampling<br />
- A Maraschino & fig cake feast<br />
- Biking through the National Park Krka<br />
DAY 8 - SPlIT<br />
- Split gastro tour<br />
- Pelješac wine & oyster tastings<br />
DAY 9 - DuBROvNIK<br />
- Sea kayaking along the Adriatic coast<br />
- Cooking class & dinner, Konavle<br />
ACTIVITY LEVEL<br />
AlTITuDE:<br />
max 3200 metres<br />
Explore China’s icons, and yet to be<br />
discovered treasures. Learn traditional Chinese<br />
skills and gain new photography expertise!<br />
China Multi-Sport<br />
from the Great Wall to the Tiger Leaping Gorge<br />
DAY 1 - BEIJING<br />
- Visit Chinese Imperial Palace<br />
- Visit the Hutongs<br />
- Visit local family to learn kite-making<br />
DAY 5 - JIuZhAIGOu - Hike Jiuzhaigou National Park<br />
- Small workshop on landscape<br />
photography<br />
- Visit Leshan Mountain<br />
- Walk Jinli Street for a night<br />
photography seminar<br />
- Visit Tibetan museum<br />
DAY 2 - GREAT wAll<br />
- Hike the Mutianyu section<br />
- Visit the Summer Palace<br />
DAY 3 - XI´AN<br />
- Visit the Terracotta Warriors<br />
- Bike the Xi’an City Wall<br />
- Visit Muslim Quarter<br />
- Dumpling banquet<br />
DAY 4 - JIuZhAIGOu<br />
- Visit a Tibetan family for dinner<br />
DAY 6 - SONGPAN<br />
- Horseback ride through<br />
Songpan countryside<br />
DAY 7 - chENGDu<br />
- Visit a local park to sample a<br />
typical Chengdu weekend<br />
- Watch a Sichuan Opera<br />
DAY 8 - chENGDu<br />
- Volunteer at the Panda<br />
Breeding Centre<br />
DAY 9 - lIJIANG<br />
- Early morning Taichi practice<br />
DAY 10/11<br />
- TIGER lEAPING GORGE TREK<br />
DAY 12 - ShAXI<br />
- Visit Shaxi Ancient Town<br />
- Visit Shibaoshan Grottoes<br />
DAY 13 - DAlI<br />
- Visit local Dali villages<br />
- Tour the lakeside by bike
CHINA<br />
Fan Na // (+86) 10 8519 8851<br />
fanna@purequest.com<br />
CROATIA<br />
Mirela // (+385) 1 4920 678<br />
croatiasales@purequest.com<br />
INDIA<br />
lokesh // (+91) 11 4279 5259<br />
lokesh@purequest.com<br />
PERU<br />
Eduardo // (+91) 1 61 96 973<br />
eduardo@purequest.com<br />
/27
BETWEEN PARACAS<br />
AND NASCA<br />
PARACAS AND NASCA,<br />
BOTH AREAS THAT<br />
HOUSE IMPORTANT<br />
NATURAL RESERVES<br />
AND ARCHAEOLOGICAL<br />
SITES, HAVE BECOME<br />
IMPORTANT TOURISM<br />
DESTINATIONS,<br />
WITH 13 MILLION<br />
DOLLARS INVESTED<br />
IN TOURISM-RELATED<br />
INFRASTRUCTURE OVER<br />
THE LAST FEW YEARS.<br />
TODAY VISITORS CAN<br />
ENJOY ALL KINDS<br />
OF HOSPITALITY<br />
EXPERIENCES, FROM<br />
GASTRONOMICALLY<br />
THEMED TOURS TO<br />
HIGH-END, LUXURY<br />
PACKAGES.<br />
By<br />
Paola Miglio<br />
Luxury next to the Natural<br />
Reserve: The Hotel Double<br />
Tree by Hilton <strong>Paracas</strong>
Gihan Tubbeh<br />
<strong>Paracas</strong><br />
and Nasca<br />
Investment on the Southern Coast<br />
/29
BETWEEN PARACAS AND NASCA<br />
Iñigo Maneiro<br />
US$<br />
13.15<br />
MILLION<br />
OF PRIVATE<br />
INVESTMENT<br />
RECENTLY<br />
REDISCOVERED AS A<br />
TOURIST DESTINATION,<br />
PARACAS HAS SEEN<br />
THE CONSTRUCTION OF<br />
LUXURY HOTELS OVER<br />
THE LAST FEW<br />
YEARS.<br />
<strong>Paracas</strong>: A perfect<br />
destination to rest and<br />
relax<br />
Iñigo Maneiro<br />
The <strong>Paracas</strong> to Nasca route is a destination<br />
seeing steady tourism investment. This has<br />
meant an improvement in service standards. For<br />
Peru’s Ministry of Commerce and Tourism (Mincetur),<br />
both Nasca and <strong>Paracas</strong> have important tourist<br />
attractions to promote, including the Nasca Lines,<br />
The <strong>Paracas</strong> National Reserve, the Ballestas Islands<br />
and the Bay of San Fernando among others. Mincetur<br />
is projecting $13 million in private investment in the<br />
development of maritime routes between <strong>Paracas</strong>, the<br />
Ballestas Islands, San Fernando and Marcona, as well<br />
as another $2.4 million in a new Nasca bus station<br />
located 10 minutes from the city centre. Additionally,<br />
over the next two years, another $45 million will be<br />
spent expanding the Pisco airport, all of which will<br />
vastly improve access to the area.
Christian Declercq<br />
Mayu Mohanna<br />
Christian Declercq<br />
The enigmatic Candelabro<br />
faces the sea.<br />
Above: Adventures by land and<br />
by sea: Tours in the <strong>Paracas</strong><br />
Reserve and to the Ballestas<br />
Islands<br />
Left: Hotel <strong>Paracas</strong>, a Luxury<br />
Collection Resort from the<br />
Libertador chain.<br />
Gihan Tubbeh<br />
PARACAS: LUXURY AND ADVENTURE<br />
The Bay of <strong>Paracas</strong> is three hours away from Lima<br />
by car and its major tourist attraction is the <strong>Paracas</strong><br />
National Reserve, 13,000 square miles of protected<br />
desert, wetlands and seashore where visitors can<br />
enjoy nature and ancient archaeological sites. In<br />
addition to swimming, camping and off road tours<br />
through the desert, one also can visit archaeological<br />
sites including the Candelabro, a huge desert etching,<br />
and Cerro Colorado and Wari Kayan, two burial<br />
remains where some of the most beautiful <strong>Paracas</strong><br />
textiles were discovered.<br />
Rediscovered by tourism developers in the last<br />
few years, <strong>Paracas</strong> has seen a number of new,<br />
luxury hotel projects including the Hotel <strong>Paracas</strong>, a<br />
Luxury Collection Resort, the DoubleTree Resort By<br />
Hilton <strong>Paracas</strong>, the Hotel Hacienda and the Aranwa<br />
<strong>Paracas</strong> Resort & Spa, which is scheduled to open<br />
/31
BETWEEN PARACAS AND NASCA<br />
HEADING SOUTH ALONG<br />
THE PANAMERICAN<br />
HIGHWAY FOR<br />
ABOUT SIX HOURS<br />
ONE REACHES NASCA,<br />
ONE OF THE FIVE<br />
PROVINCES IN THE ICA<br />
REGION, AND FAMOUS<br />
FOR THE NASCA LINES;<br />
HUMANS, ANIMALS AND<br />
GEOMETRIC FIGURES<br />
ETCHED INTO THE SAND<br />
AND VISIBLE ONLY<br />
FROM THE SKY.<br />
A diversity of<br />
activities: Overfly<br />
the Nasca Lines at<br />
dawn, then enjoy a<br />
sunny day exploring<br />
and finally, relax<br />
over a sunset dinner<br />
in the desert.<br />
this November with 116 rooms. “One of the principal<br />
attractions for us in investing in <strong>Paracas</strong> has been the<br />
increase in demand. Since 2008, demand has gone<br />
up 43 per cent, 23 per cent of which is international<br />
tourist demand. This shows us that for the Peruvian<br />
tourist, and in particular for tourists from Lima, <strong>Paracas</strong><br />
is a perfect place to get away from the city – but with<br />
the same level of comfort and service,” says Carla Lau,<br />
Head of Marketing for Aranwa <strong>Paracas</strong> Resort & Spa.<br />
NASCA: FARTHER SOUTH<br />
Following the Panamerican Highway south six hours<br />
from Lima, one arrives in Nasca, the second largest<br />
of the five Ica provinces. Nasca’s principal tourist<br />
attraction is the Nasca Lines, a series of figures visible<br />
only from the air that were etched into the desert by<br />
the ancient Nasca people. Thanks to the dry, sunny,<br />
desert climate, these figures, which include images of<br />
a whale, dog, monkey and hummingbird, along with<br />
a series of geometric figures, are still clearly visible.<br />
Increased tourism to the region has meant a series<br />
of service improvements, particularly with flights over<br />
the lines.<br />
While most international tourists get to <strong>Paracas</strong> and<br />
Nasca by car, increasingly, visitors are flying from<br />
Lima’s Jorge Chavez International Airport to Pisco on<br />
local airlines such as Aerodiana and LCP Peru. From<br />
Pisco, tourists can take a flight over the Nasca Lines.<br />
A new option for tourists continuing on to Cusco is<br />
LCP’s recently-introduced service from Lima to Pisco<br />
with an over flight of the Nasca Lines en route to<br />
Cusco – all in one trip.<br />
Arriving in Nasca by sea at the San Juan de Marcona<br />
Port is an option that is being developed as part of<br />
a group of projects that is presently being reviewed<br />
for approval by the Peruvian government. Once<br />
approval has been granted, the Peruvian National Port<br />
Authority will create a licitation for concession of the<br />
port, expected sometime in 2014. The plan focuses<br />
on infrastructure improvements that will include a first<br />
phase for mineral shipments, a second phase for<br />
agricultural shipments, and finally a third phase that<br />
will include port space for cruise ships.<br />
Iñigo Maneiro<br />
Iñigo Maneiro<br />
Hoteles Libertador
Not to be missed: Aquatic sports and gastronomical<br />
experiences enjoying local products.<br />
Talía Barreda<br />
PARACAS<br />
BEACH ACTIVITIES<br />
In addition to the beauty of nature and the area’s<br />
archaeological remains, the <strong>Paracas</strong> to Nasca<br />
Route attracts visitors because of its unspoiled<br />
beaches and because of the variety of aquatic<br />
activities that one can practice here, primarily<br />
kayaking, surfing, kite surfing and sailing. If you<br />
are looking for a more low key adventure, try the<br />
spa services at some of the area’s new, five-star<br />
hotel and spas.<br />
Rodrigo Cabrera<br />
Talía Barreda<br />
Christian Declercq<br />
DINING DOWN SOUTH<br />
GASTRONOMY IN THE PARACAS TO NASCA<br />
REGION HAS IMPROVED DRAMATICALLY<br />
RECENTLY THANKS TO SOME LOCAL<br />
ENTREPRENEURS WHO HAVE BEGUN A<br />
RETURN TO THE AGE-OLD PRACTICES OF<br />
SMALL SCALE ANIMAL FARMING AND<br />
GROWING ORGANIC, LOCAL PRODUCE.<br />
WITH TOP INGREDIENTS, LOCAL CHEFS<br />
ARE REINVENTING CLASSIC PERUVIAN<br />
RECIPES, OFFERING EVERYTHING FROM<br />
HOME COOKING TO HAUTE CUISINE.<br />
/33
BETWEEN PARACAS AND NASCA
Where the desert and the ocean meet: A walk through the <strong>Paracas</strong> National Reserve.<br />
PROGRAM<br />
ICA AND PARACAS<br />
(5D/4N)<br />
DAY 1 LIMA-ICA<br />
Head to Ica on a bus from Lima (4<br />
hours). Visit Ica’s Regional Museum<br />
and the Huacachina Lagoon. Lunch<br />
at the Hacienda<br />
San Jose.<br />
DAY 2 ICA-PARACAS<br />
Visit the Queirolo vineyards<br />
accompanied by a sommelier. From<br />
there, continue along the Pisco Route<br />
where you’ll stop at a series of pisco<br />
and wine vineyards.<br />
DAY 3 PARACAS<br />
Take a boat trip to the Ballestas<br />
Islands, located about 45 minutes<br />
from the <strong>Paracas</strong> boardwalk. Then flly<br />
over the Nasca Lines. Finally, stop at<br />
Huamani, a local artisan workshop.<br />
DAY 4 PARACAS<br />
Visit to Atenas Beach in the<br />
<strong>Paracas</strong> Reserve, where you’ll<br />
collect Peruvian scallops for<br />
a traditional Tiradito de Conchas,<br />
or scallop cebiche. After lunch,<br />
see the dunes riding four-by-fours.<br />
Enjoy a luxury dinner<br />
on the dunes.<br />
DAY 5 PARACAS-LIMA<br />
Drive back to Lima.<br />
Rodrigo Cabrera<br />
/35
INTERVIEW<br />
ARANWA: A HEALTHY HOTEL OPTION<br />
Gabriel Álvarez<br />
General Manager of the Aranwa Hotels, Resorts and Spas<br />
By<br />
Diego Oliver<br />
ARANWA HOTELS, RESORTS AND SPAS HAVE BEEN OPENING ONE HOTEL A YEAR IN PERU’S MOST EMBLEMATIC<br />
DESTINATIONS SINCE 2008. WITH A 45 MILLION DOLLAR INVESTMENT, AND PROPERTIES IN FOUR KEY AREAS OF THE<br />
COUNTRY, ARANWA HAVE HAD A SUCCESSFUL START. THIS YEAR THE COMPANY WILL OPEN ITS FIFTH PROPERTY, IN<br />
PARACAS, AND PLANS ARE TO CONTINUE EXPANSION THROUGHOUT PERU.<br />
Diego Oliver<br />
Aranwa Hotels, Resorts and Spas are a hotel<br />
chain that is owned by the San Pablo Group,<br />
a family-owned business with 22 years in the<br />
health sector. With the experience of running nine<br />
clinics in Peru, the San Pablo Group decided six years<br />
ago to expand into tourism hospitality. The Aranwa<br />
Hotels, Resorts and Spas concept focuses on health<br />
and well being as part of a high-end hotel experience.<br />
“Aranwa means legend in Spanish,” explains Gabriel<br />
Alvarez, the young general manager of the Aranwa<br />
chain. Alvarez represents the new face of the family<br />
business and today he is a critical player in Aranwa’s<br />
expansion. “When we entered the hotel business,<br />
because of San Pablo’s experience in the health<br />
sector, we decided to position ourselves in the health<br />
and well-being sector of tourism.” That vision led to<br />
the opening of Aranwa Valle Sagrado, a five-star hotel<br />
with 115 rooms located in the Sacred Valley of the<br />
Incas. Built inside a former 17th Century hacienda,<br />
and located on the shores of the Vilconota River, the<br />
hotel is expansive at 2,500 square meters and offers<br />
numerous spa and health-related therapies including<br />
baths, massages, yoga and Andean mysticism.
US$ 45<br />
MILLION dOLARS<br />
wITh A 45<br />
MILLION dOLLAR<br />
INVESTMENT, ANd<br />
PROPERTIES IN FOUR<br />
kEy AREAS OF<br />
ThE cOUNTRy,<br />
ARANwA hAVE hAd<br />
A SUccESSFUL START<br />
by ThE ENd OF ThIS yEAR,<br />
ARANwA wILL bE<br />
5 yEARS OLd,<br />
ANd hAVE 5 hOTELS<br />
ANd MANAgE cLOSE TO<br />
400<br />
ROOMS<br />
Aranwa<br />
How was the Aranwa business created?<br />
After we inaugurated the Aranwa Valle Sagrado Hotel,<br />
we opened a small, five-star, boutique hotel in Cusco<br />
with 43 rooms, all with oxygen pumped in. After that,<br />
we bought an existing hotel at the Vichayito Beach<br />
on Peru’s northern coast and we expanded the<br />
property from nine to 35 rooms, including bungalows<br />
and tents. In March of this year, we opened a fourstar<br />
hotel in Coporaque, a small town in the Colca<br />
Valley. This November we are scheduled to open the<br />
Hotel Vichayito<br />
Bungalows & Tents in<br />
Máncora<br />
/39
INTERVIEW<br />
An old, colonial house<br />
is the site of the Aranwa<br />
Cusco Boutique Hotel.<br />
A view of the Sacred<br />
Valley of the Incas and the<br />
colonial hacienda where<br />
Aranwa has its Sacred<br />
Valley Hotel & Wellness.<br />
Aranwa <strong>Paracas</strong> Hotel, another five-star property with<br />
115 rooms that will be located on the Bay of <strong>Paracas</strong>.<br />
That means that by the end of 2013, Aranwa will be<br />
five years old, have five hotels and manage close to<br />
400 rooms.<br />
Why is <strong>Paracas</strong> interesting as a destination?<br />
<strong>Paracas</strong> is attractive for a number of reasons. First, we<br />
identify with the medical legacy of the <strong>Paracas</strong> culture,<br />
who explored the concept of brain surgery through the<br />
idea of cranial trepanation. Also, contact with nature<br />
and the vast variety of biodiversity in <strong>Paracas</strong> is, in<br />
and of itself, a factor in health and well-being. We also<br />
see that Lima is becoming a very important corporate<br />
tourism destination and we feel <strong>Paracas</strong> could be an<br />
additional destination for those visitors to consider.<br />
And finally, <strong>Paracas</strong> has always been a very attractive<br />
destination for residents of Lima<br />
Aranwa<br />
What is the Aranwa <strong>Paracas</strong> Hotel going<br />
to be like?<br />
The <strong>Paracas</strong> property is built in a semi circle that opens<br />
its arms to the sea. It has a boardwalk that begins from<br />
the middle of the hotel and extends 180 metres into<br />
the Bay, which makes it the longest, private dock in<br />
<strong>Paracas</strong>. The hotel is divided into two wings, each<br />
with three floors and an independent elevator. We’ll<br />
have a gourmet restaurant, two bars, including a pisco<br />
bar, meeting rooms, a spa with salt water pool and, at<br />
the end of the boardwalk, we’ll have a sound-proofed<br />
discotheque that will be silent from the outside and a<br />
hot party spot inside.<br />
Where else in Peru are you thinking of building<br />
or buying hotels?<br />
The Aranwa chain has grown very quickly over the last<br />
five years and we are very proud of our ability to create
INTERVIEW<br />
Right: Weavers<br />
from the Colca<br />
Valley at the<br />
Aranwa Pueblito<br />
Encantado del<br />
Colca Hotel.<br />
Below: Enjoying<br />
views of the valley<br />
from the hotel pool.<br />
WE WILL NOT BE<br />
OPENING ANY NEW<br />
HOTELS IN 2014, BUT<br />
INSTEAD WILL<br />
CONCENTRATE ON<br />
CONSOLIDATING OUR<br />
EXISTING<br />
HOTELS AND<br />
IMPROVING THEM IN<br />
TERMS OF SERVICES<br />
AND<br />
HUMAN RESOURCES<br />
and maintain a chain of four and five-star properties.<br />
We will not be opening any new hotels in 2014, but<br />
instead will concentrate on consolidating our existing<br />
hotels and improving them in terms of services and<br />
human resources. Looking into 2015, we are studying<br />
three projects we hope will develop. One of them is a<br />
boutique hotel in Arequipa’s beautiful Ricketts House,<br />
a colonial mansion constructed of the local white,<br />
sillar rock. We also are looking at a project in Lima<br />
that would involve developing a shopping plaza, which<br />
is something we think is synergistic with corporate<br />
tourism. And finally, we own land in Puno and in the<br />
medium term, we would like to develop that.<br />
What makes a destination interesting<br />
to Aranwa?<br />
The most important thing for us is to be able to<br />
develop a destination and create an increased value<br />
for visitors. In the Sacred Valley, for example, we<br />
restored a 17th century, colonial hacienda. In Cusco,<br />
it took us five years to refurbish a 16th century,<br />
colonial house. In the Colca, we found an old, rock<br />
mill on our hotel property that we have restored to<br />
working order. A destination is interesting for Aranwa<br />
to the extent that it has a history that can be restored<br />
and recaptured. That, in turn, creates a value that can<br />
be shared with locals and international visitors.<br />
Aranwa
O x y g e n E n h a n c e d T o u r i n g<br />
“The oxygen enriched cabin is effective in preventing altitude sickness.<br />
Passengers will feel great cruising even this high across the highplateau”.<br />
says onboard medical advisor Dr. Dante Valdivia<br />
Cima Clinic in Cuzco<br />
"La cabina enriquecida con oxígeno es eficaz para prevenir el mal de altura. Los pasajeros<br />
pueden estar seguros de sentirse bien incluso en las zonas más altas del Altiplano".<br />
comentó el médico asesor a bordo Dr. Dante Valdivia<br />
Clínica Cima en Cuzco<br />
Alleviates altitude sickness symptoms including shortness of breath, headaches, fatigue and nausea.<br />
Alivia los síntomas de altitud como la dificultad en la respiración, dolores de cabeza, fatiga y náuseas.<br />
A higher concentration of oxygen will provide a more relaxing journey.<br />
Una mayor concentración de oxigeno ayudará al pasajero en tener un viaje más placentero<br />
Oxygen departure valve<br />
Válvulas de salida de oxígeno<br />
Driver Panel<br />
12v o 24v Solenoid Valve<br />
Válvulas de 12v o 24v<br />
40sch Flowmeter<br />
Flujometro de 40sch<br />
Oxygen Cylinders<br />
Cilindros de Oxígeno<br />
40psi Pressure regulator<br />
Regulador de presión de 40psi<br />
Low pressure Oxygen line under bus<br />
Línea de Oxigeno de baja presión debajo del bus<br />
The additional Oxygen in BusO2, creates a special<br />
environment 1000m / 3280 ft lower than the actual altitude<br />
El oxígeno adicional en el Bus, crea un ambiente<br />
especial 1000m más abajo que la altura real.<br />
For more information, please contact your Lima Tours<br />
Specialist or write us to: inbound@limatours.com.pe<br />
www.limatours.com.pe<br />
Para más información, favor contáctese con su especialista<br />
de Lima Tours o escribanos a: inbound@limatours.com.pe
THE PISCO ROUTE<br />
The Pisco Route<br />
By<br />
Paola Miglio<br />
Cristian Declercq<br />
The Hotel Viñas Queirolo in<br />
Ica is surrounded by over 400<br />
hectares of wine-producing<br />
grapes.<br />
THE PISCO ROUTE SEEKS TO ADD VALUE TO THE PARACAS<br />
TO NASCA CIRCUIT, ALREADY AN AREA OF PERU RICH IN<br />
HISTORY, ARCHAEOLOGY AND CULTURE. THE PERUVIAN<br />
GOVERNMENT PLANS TO INVEST CLOSE TO FIVE MILLION<br />
DOLLARS TO ATTRACT 1.2 MILLION VISITORS TO THE<br />
ICA AND CHINCHA PROVINCES, SPECIFICALLY TO THE<br />
EL CARMEN, SALAS, SUBTANJALLA, LA TINGUIÑA, SAN<br />
JUAN BAUTISTA Y LOS AQUIJES DISTRICTS.<br />
WITH THE GOAL<br />
OF ATTRACTING 1.2<br />
MILLION VISITORS,<br />
THE PISCO ROUTE HAS<br />
BEEN LAUNCHED AND<br />
PROMOTERS HOPE<br />
TO SEE SUSTAINED<br />
TOURISM IN ICA GO<br />
UP 18 PER CENT. THE<br />
PRINCIPAL LONG-<br />
TERM OBJECTIVE<br />
IS TO INCREASE<br />
TOURISM IN THE<br />
PARACAS TO NASCA<br />
CIRCUIT THROUGH<br />
BETTER TOURIST<br />
SERVICES AND<br />
INFRASTRUCTURE<br />
UNDER THE<br />
UMBRELLA OF PISCO-<br />
RELATED TOURISM.
RUTA dEL PIScO<br />
All of these developments are designed to extend the <strong>Paracas</strong>/Nasca<br />
experience by offering visitors a variety of reasons to stay longer. “In our<br />
property,” says Angela Taragano, manager of the Viñas Queirolo Hotel<br />
located at the Queirolo Hacienda vineyards. “The average stay is one night<br />
and people come specifically to see our wine cellars; but we are sure as<br />
the area expands the visitor experience, tourists will stay longer.”<br />
LIMA<br />
PAchAcÁMAc<br />
PUcUSANA<br />
chILcA<br />
Bodega<br />
Santiago Queirolo<br />
Bodega<br />
Ugarelli<br />
Bodega<br />
Cuatro Bocas<br />
Bodega<br />
El Alambique<br />
de Azpitia<br />
THE TOUR INCLUDES STOPS AT<br />
THE BODEGAS OF ALL OF THE<br />
REGION’S MOST IMPORTANT<br />
PISCO PRODUCERS INCLUDING<br />
EL CARMELO, EL CATADOR,<br />
TABERNERO, TACAMA, TRES<br />
GENERACIONES, VISTA<br />
ALEGRE, LOVERA PÉREZ, LA<br />
CARAVEDO, VIÑAS DE ORO<br />
AND OTHERS.<br />
THE IMPLEMENTATION OF THIS<br />
PLAN WILL INCLUDE ARTISANS<br />
AND INDUSTRIALISTS WHO<br />
MEET THE ESTABLISHED<br />
PARAMETRES FOR TOURISM<br />
DEVELOPMENT. THERE WILL<br />
BE STATE INVESTMENT IN<br />
INFRASTRUCTURE IN ORDER TO<br />
IMPROVE ACCESS, ADD MODERN<br />
REST SERVICES IN LOCAL<br />
BODEGAS, AND MARKET THE<br />
PISCO ROUTE BOTH NATIONALLY<br />
AND INTERNATIONALLY.<br />
THIS PROJECT INCLUDES<br />
THE CREATION OF A CENTRE<br />
FOR PISCO INFORMATION<br />
AND EDUCATION IN A<br />
SPACE TO BE GIVEN BY THE<br />
CENTRO DE INNOVATION<br />
TECNOLÓGICA VITIVINÍCOLA<br />
(CITEVID), LOCATED IN<br />
SALAS, ICA.<br />
FOR SOME TIME NOW, BODEGA<br />
SANTIAGO QUEIROLO HAS BEEN<br />
DEVELOPING A SERVICE THEY CALL<br />
OENOLOGICAL TOURISM. THE IDEA IS<br />
THAT THEY OPEN THEIR BODEGA TO<br />
VISITORS FOR AN INSIDE LOOK AT HOW<br />
THEY DEVELOP THEIR PISCO FROM<br />
START TO FINISH. YOU CAN COMBINE<br />
THE VISIT WITH A MEAL OR OVERNIGHT<br />
STAY AT THE VIÑAS QUEIROLO HOTEL.<br />
ASIA<br />
SAN VIcENTE dE cAÑETE<br />
Bodega<br />
Viñas de Oro<br />
chINchA ALTA<br />
Bodega<br />
San Nicolás<br />
Bodega<br />
El Paraíso<br />
PIScO<br />
ACCORDING TO THE MINISTRY<br />
OF COMMERCE AND TOURISM<br />
(MINCETUR), TOURISTS TO THE<br />
PARACAS TO NASCA CIRCUIT<br />
HAVE INCREASED 10 PER CENT<br />
SINCE 2003. WITH THE PISCO<br />
ROUTE, MINCETUR HOPES TO<br />
REACH A SUSTAINED,<br />
18 INCREASE.<br />
18%<br />
Marco Garro<br />
THE CENTRE FOR PISCO<br />
INFORMATION AND EDUCATION<br />
WILL BE A MUSEUM WHERE<br />
VISITORS WILL LEARN ABOUT<br />
THE DRINK’S HISTORY AND<br />
PRESENT-DAY DEVELOPMENT.<br />
A CENTRE FOR PISCO<br />
DEVELOPMENT WILL ALSO<br />
BE CREATED AS PART OF THE<br />
INSTITUTION IN ORDER TO BUILT<br />
LOCAL CAPACITY IN PISCO<br />
PRODUCTION.<br />
Gihan Tubbeh<br />
AFTER COMPLETING THE<br />
FIRST STAGE OF PROMOTION,<br />
TOURISM TO THE PISCO ROUTE<br />
IS GROWING AND PROMOTERS<br />
HOPE TO ADD OTHER PISCO<br />
PRODUCING ZONES INCLUDING<br />
LIMA, AREQUIPA, TACNA AND<br />
MOQUEGUA BY 2016.<br />
Inés Menacho<br />
Bodega Tres Esquinas<br />
Bodega Vista Alegre<br />
Renzo Ucelli<br />
Bodega Tacama<br />
IcA<br />
Hotel<br />
Viñas Queirolo<br />
Bodega Ocucaje<br />
/45
info@worldcome.net<br />
www.worldcome.net<br />
All our products can<br />
be tailored to specific<br />
requirements using our<br />
companies’ extensive<br />
local knowledge.<br />
Creating a positive impact.<br />
We recognise that the enviroment, communities and cultures within whic we<br />
operate are vital to the success of our business.<br />
Environmental<br />
Worldcome is ethically conscious<br />
about maintaining a clean<br />
environment, therefore many<br />
of our destinations in Europe,<br />
the Middle East and Africa<br />
actively support cleaning the<br />
surrounding beaches, rivers and<br />
hiking trails.<br />
Sustainability<br />
The consumption of natural<br />
resources within the tourism<br />
industry is a clear concern. This<br />
is why many of our destinations<br />
actively support and engage in<br />
sustainable initiatives within<br />
their inbound services.<br />
Human welfare<br />
It is very apparent that so many<br />
destinations across the world<br />
need more support to help local<br />
children and adults that are in<br />
poverty or in poor health. For<br />
this reason we have many of our<br />
inbound companies supporting<br />
human welfare initiatives.<br />
Foundations<br />
We constantly encourage a<br />
positive impact on our local<br />
communities through diverse<br />
activities and continuous<br />
support to the local NGOs. Lima<br />
Tours in Peru and Le Passage<br />
to India have both created that<br />
positive impact through their<br />
own foundations.<br />
We are actively involved in over<br />
30 projects<br />
and are developing our social responsibility through<br />
further initiatives.
Col Anil Alagh from Shaping Lives // Le Passage to India<br />
Shaping Lives is a pioneering initiative in India. The aim is not only to help serve<br />
their community but to set an example and inspire a vast growth of initiatives within<br />
the Indian tourism industry. It was great to hear from Col (the general manager for<br />
corporate social responsibility for Le Passage to India) on how the foundation aims to<br />
facilitate respect, recognition and warmth into the lives of less privileged.<br />
What was the inspiration behind<br />
Shaping Lives?<br />
That’s a great question! Karma is<br />
synonymous to India. Most inbound<br />
tourists look forward to ‘social giving’<br />
and earning ‘karma’ while exploring<br />
India. Le Passage to India decided to<br />
create meaningful opportunities for<br />
them through volunteering programmes.<br />
The well-researched<br />
grass root level<br />
NGOs work in varied<br />
fields ranging from<br />
children to senior<br />
citizens, from<br />
medical initiatives to animals and all<br />
across India. From this vision of Mr<br />
Arjun Sharma, Managing Director of Le<br />
Passage to India, the foundation was<br />
initiated, with the mandate to facilitate<br />
change for the less privileged.<br />
Do you have differrent programme<br />
options for the clients?<br />
Yes. Shaping Lives involves detailed<br />
planning and management between<br />
the operational team, the NGO and<br />
the traveller. Depending on the client’s<br />
wishes and the length of stay, there are<br />
various options that can be selected<br />
ranging from short visits to resident<br />
volunteering. During the visit clients<br />
are briefed and familiarised with the<br />
NGO’s work and target group. For long<br />
group volunteer programs or resident<br />
volunteers, Shaping Lives plans the<br />
administrative and financial detail. The<br />
volunteers may teach arts and crafts or<br />
paint and support the area where NGO<br />
is based. In all cases they would have<br />
enough time to learn more about their<br />
daily routines.area where NGO is based.<br />
In all cases they would have enough<br />
time to learn more about their daily<br />
routines.<br />
Are clients permitted to take<br />
photographs and give gifts?<br />
Yes please.<br />
But in the few<br />
cases where<br />
it is not<br />
permitted<br />
due to law<br />
or for confidentiality reasons,<br />
Shaping Lives issues an<br />
advisory to this effect well in<br />
advance via the operational<br />
teams. In regards to gifts,<br />
these are always welcome!<br />
Clients are able to give<br />
a monetary donation<br />
directly to the NGOs or<br />
contribute with their<br />
own activitites<br />
during their<br />
visit.<br />
Shaping Lives strives to create<br />
good karma opportunities as part of<br />
our clients’ Indian holiday experience.
A LONG HISTORY<br />
ON THE SOUTHERN<br />
COAST OF PERU ONE<br />
FINDS REMAINS<br />
OF TWO OF THE<br />
MOST FASCINATING<br />
CULTURES IN PERU,<br />
THE NASCA AND<br />
THE PARACAS.<br />
THE CHURCHES,<br />
HACIENDAS, LOST<br />
CITIES AND ANCIENT<br />
PETROGLYPHS THAT<br />
DECORATE THE ARID<br />
HILLSIDES FORM PART<br />
OF THE HISTORY OF<br />
THESE PEOPLE.<br />
By<br />
Iñigo Maneiro<br />
Cahuachi:<br />
The Ceremonial Centre<br />
of the Nasca discovered<br />
in the desert.
Christian Declercq<br />
A Long<br />
History<br />
The generous desert of the Southern Coast.<br />
/49
A LONG HISTORY<br />
Iñigo Maneiro<br />
Christian Declercq<br />
Jacques Rostand<br />
Estaqueria, a Nasca ceremonial<br />
space located only four<br />
kilometres away from Cahuachi.<br />
Above: The aqueducts of<br />
Ocongalla: Ancestral water<br />
management<br />
Right: The Astronaut, an<br />
anthropomorphic figure carved<br />
into the pampas of Jumana,<br />
Nasca.<br />
10,000<br />
YEARS<br />
OF HUMAN PRESENCE IN<br />
THE NASCA AN PARACAS<br />
DESERTS<br />
Evidence of human presence in the Nasca and <strong>Paracas</strong><br />
deserts dates back 10,0000 years. Originally nomadic<br />
people, the Nasca and <strong>Paracas</strong> people began to<br />
settle and build complex societies, as they were able to<br />
control water and water supplies. The southern desert<br />
eco-system combines the arid features of the desert<br />
with an ocean rich in birds, fish and crustaceans. These<br />
animals were essential elements of the diet and of trade<br />
with Andean people, thus they can be seen in much of the<br />
iconography of the Nasca and <strong>Paracas</strong> people.<br />
The <strong>Paracas</strong> people, who lived on the Independence<br />
Bay, show a rich variety of designs in the beautiful, woven<br />
fabrics they created. Made from cotton, these textiles were<br />
well made and feature a wide variety of bright, colours<br />
using natural dyes.<br />
FIGURES ON THE DESERT FLOOR<br />
The Nasca culture, discovered by Peruvian archaeologist<br />
Julio C.Tello, saw its apex between 700 b.c and 200 b.c<br />
Its influence was felt along the southern coast of Peru<br />
and the society was known for both its fine ceramic work<br />
and its sophisticated medical advances including cranial<br />
trepanation surgery, an operation in which the skull was<br />
perforated and the brain manipulated directly.<br />
Both the <strong>Paracas</strong> and the Nasca people controlled the<br />
desert and used it as a canvas upon which to create<br />
geoglyphs of animals, people and mythological beings,<br />
visible only from the air. Recorded first in the 16th Century<br />
by Spanish explorer Cieza de León, the lines were powerful,<br />
religious symbols adored and worshiped by hundreds in<br />
ceremonies and through music.<br />
The epicentre of the Nasca culture was the Usaca desert,<br />
where the ceremonial centre of Cahuachi is located. Today,<br />
excavated by an Italian mission headed by archaeologist<br />
Guiseppe Oreficci, the Cahuachi research area is 24 square<br />
metres and is dotted by over 30, buried, adobe pyramids.<br />
The area is united by ramps, plazas and stairways made
of distinct types of adobe that mark the different periods in<br />
which Cahuachi was built.<br />
This ceremonial centre housed an elite people who<br />
developed the culture’s religious ideology, which led to<br />
the creation of the geoglyphs known colloquially as the<br />
Nasca Lines. Rites included the use of large clay and<br />
straw pots which were destroyed as part of the ceremonial<br />
proceedings. The Nasca developed an artistic vision that<br />
included textiles, ceramics, silver and gold decorative<br />
pieces, as well as wood and semi-precious stone<br />
utensils. Many pieces are on display at the onsite, Antonini<br />
Museum. Their cultural influence extended north to south,<br />
from Arequipa in the Central Sierra, into the Amazon and<br />
south to Chile, and evidence can be seen in the feathers,<br />
animals and minerals that they shared throughout their<br />
domain. Their collapse came in the 7th Century and was<br />
due to a particularly strong El Nino weather phenomenon<br />
that brought about intense rain and massive landslides.<br />
Finally, the Nasca people could no longer control either the<br />
desert or the water supply. But over the thousands of years<br />
before their culture came apart, the Nasca did manage the<br />
desert, designing aqueducts using boulders and Algarrobo<br />
Tree trunks to take water from high in the Andes and bring<br />
it to them. Today archaeologists have found the remain<br />
of over 60 Nasca aqueducts including ones in Cantayoc,<br />
Ocongalla, Aja and Bisambra. The Bisambra remains have<br />
been moved to the Antonini Museum.<br />
FARMERS AND CITIES OF STONE<br />
The ability of the Nasca people to control water access<br />
allowed agricultural development to begin. Eventually,<br />
cultivation of cotton, corn, sweet potatoes and other<br />
tubers, spread along the thin, fertile valleys in the Nasca<br />
region. This allowed the locals to add to the diet of fish and<br />
shellfish the products they harvested in the San Fernando<br />
Bay. This time of increased food was also a period where<br />
the creation of petroglyphs became abundant and one<br />
finds figures of animals, humans and geometric shapes on<br />
the hills and rocks. At Chichictara and Majuelo, petroglyphs<br />
seem to refer to space. Offerings and religious symbols are<br />
also present.<br />
After the collapse of the Nasca people in the 7th Century,<br />
the Wari, and later the Chincha cultures emerged. The Inca<br />
conquered the region before the Spanish arrived in 1532.<br />
The lost city of Huayuri, an urban centre built of rock and<br />
surrounded by mountains in the high area of Palpa, is an<br />
archaeological remain from this period. In Nasca itself, the<br />
Paradones archaeological site, called Caxmarca by the<br />
Incas, is the only one left by the Incas. Farther north on<br />
Jacques Rostand<br />
Ceramic Nasca Cup,<br />
Antonini Museum.<br />
Iñigo Maneiro<br />
Iñigo Maneiro<br />
<strong>Paracas</strong> textiles, part of the famous, funeral<br />
wrappings discovered by Julio C. Tello.<br />
Ancient Designs: Petroglyphs from<br />
Chichictara, located seven kilometres from<br />
Palpa, and a ceramic Nasca cup from the<br />
Antonini Museum.<br />
/51
A LONG HISTORY<br />
Christian Declercq
Remains of San Jose, a colonial, Jesuit hacienda, and<br />
its modern crops, located in the El Ingenio Valley.<br />
/53
A LONG HISTORY<br />
Christian Declercq<br />
the Los Libertadores Highway, Tambo Colorado is another<br />
important site where visitors can appreciate the influence<br />
of coastal architecture on classic Andean design.<br />
Spanish agricultural settlement came soon after the<br />
Spanish arrived in Peru thanks to the rich Peruvian soil,<br />
established water sources and temperate climate that<br />
allowed the production of grapes for both wines and<br />
piscos. One of the most important southern haciendas<br />
was San Jose in Chincha. Made up of 2,500 hectares of<br />
land, the hacienda was completed in the 17th century and<br />
the present owners, the Cillóniz family, purchased it in the<br />
early 1900s. Today it is a hotel.<br />
As the southern hacienda developed, the Company<br />
of Jesus religious order followed and many of the best<br />
haciendas built small churches on their property where<br />
family and workers both attended services. Many of these<br />
churches have been abandoned over the years, but<br />
the San Jose and San Javier churches in the El Ingenio<br />
Valley are open for visits and provide a window into the<br />
agricultural history of the southern desert and a look at the<br />
communities who still live here.<br />
The history of the Nasca and <strong>Paracas</strong> people, and of the<br />
southern desert region, shows societies who were able<br />
to channel water in the desert, and thereby carve out a<br />
rich, and complex culture that created some of the best<br />
recognised and most beautiful petroglyphs, textiles and<br />
ceramic art in ancient Peru<br />
2,500<br />
HECTARES<br />
MADE THE HACIENDA SAN JOSE IN CHINCHA,<br />
DEDICATED TO GRAPE PRODUCTION, ONE OF<br />
THE MOST IMPORTANT HACIENDAS OF XVII<br />
CENTURY.<br />
Millennial Guard: The<br />
Huarango tree marks<br />
the entrance to the Lost<br />
City of Huayurí.<br />
Below: Hidden<br />
archaeological jewels:<br />
The front of the Church<br />
of San Javier and the<br />
church tower of San<br />
Jose.<br />
Opposite page:<br />
The spider, the<br />
hummingbird,<br />
along with lines and<br />
trapezoidal shapes form<br />
part of the enigmatic<br />
figures that make up the<br />
Nasca Lines.<br />
Christian Declercq
Iñigo Maneiro<br />
1 JULIO C. TELLO<br />
Born in Huarochiri, Lima in 1880, Julio C. Tello<br />
was an archaeologist, medical doctor and<br />
Peruvian political figure who discovered the<br />
<strong>Paracas</strong> and Chavin culture, which he believed had<br />
originated in Peru’s Amazon and was the origin<br />
culture of all other Peruvian cultures. This theory<br />
would eventually be proven false with the discoveries<br />
of the earlier Cupisneque and Sechin cultures.<br />
Because of Tello’s work with the <strong>Paracas</strong> culture,<br />
where he uncovered important tombs, the Julio<br />
C. Tello Museum was created within the <strong>Paracas</strong><br />
Reserve. The museum houses archaeological and<br />
cultural remains and features a presentation on the<br />
biodiversity of the Reserve area.<br />
2 THE PALPA AND NASCA LINES<br />
In the <strong>Paracas</strong> and Nasca deserts one can see huge geoglyphs of different<br />
figures that reflect basic religious iconography for the people who made them.<br />
The first figures, created by the <strong>Paracas</strong> people, were built on inclined ground<br />
and included zoomorphic, anthropomorphic and mythological figures. The<br />
Nasca geoglyphs on the other hand, were built on flat surfaces, of which there<br />
are fewer, and include zoomorphic figures as well as geometric designs including<br />
well-defined lines and trapezoids. Both the <strong>Paracas</strong> and Nasca geoglyphs take<br />
advantage of the existing earth colour and red stones to make the designs pop<br />
out. By removing the earth and rocks and securing them with wood, locals<br />
revealed the white, clay-rich ground beneath. Because the area is so arid, and<br />
the difference in humidity and temperature from day to night creates a hardening<br />
and conservation of the ground, the images remain clear up to this day.<br />
Talía Barreda<br />
3 MARÍA REICHE<br />
Rodrigo Cabrera<br />
Maria Reiche was a German scientist and explorer who<br />
spent much of her life studying the Nasca Lines, the<br />
famous Nasca geoglyphs. Born in 1903, Reiche studied<br />
mathematics in Hamburg and arrived in Peru in 1932. The<br />
Nasca Lines became her passion, and Reiche studied the lines<br />
until 1998, deciphering their use as an astronomical calendar<br />
for agricultural cycles. Thanks to Reich’s work and influence,<br />
the Peruvian government declared the Nasca Lines a Reserved<br />
Zone in the early 1980s, and Unesco named the Lines World<br />
Heritage Site in 1994. The Maria Reiche Museum is located at<br />
Kilometre 421 South of The Panamerican Highway and houses<br />
many important photographs, maps and personal objects<br />
related to Reiche’s research.<br />
/55
57
INTERVIEW<br />
THE LARCO MUSEUM WAS CREATED IN 1926 AT THE CHICLIN<br />
HACIENDA OUTSIDE OF TRUJILLO, ON PERU’S NORTHERN<br />
COAST. RAFAEL LARCO HOYLE, ITS FOUNDER, HAD INHERITED A<br />
COLLECTION OF OVER 600 ANCIENT PERUVIAN ARCHAEOLOGICAL<br />
PIECES FROM HIS FATHER, RAFAEL LARCO HERRERA. HE USED<br />
THEM AS THE MUSEUM’S FIRST EXHIBIT. IN 1960, THE LARCO<br />
MUSEUM MOVED TO ITS PRESENT LOCATION IN PUEBLO LIBRE,<br />
A DISTRICT OF LIMA. IN 2010, WITH OVER 44,000 PIECES<br />
CATALOGUED, THE LARCO MUSEUM WAS RE-LAUNCHED WITH<br />
AN UP-TO-DATE MUSEOGRAPHY THAT HAS TURNED IT INTO ONE<br />
OF THE BEST MUSEUMS IN LIMA. BELOW, THE LARCO MUSEUM’S<br />
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR ANDRÉS ÁLVAREZ CALDERÓN TALKS TO US<br />
ABOUT THE LARCO TODAY AND ITS VISION FOR THE FUTURE.<br />
By<br />
Rodrigo Cabrera<br />
What role does the Larco Museum play today<br />
in Lima’s tourism-related offerings?<br />
It would be wrong of me to say because I work<br />
in the Larco Museum. I prefer to tell you what the<br />
public says. The Larco Museum has been on Trip<br />
Advisor for five years, always ranking in the top<br />
five tourist attractions in Lima. In 2010, the year<br />
we renovated and re-launched the Museum, we<br />
moved into first place in Lima, and right now we are<br />
ranked the number two tourist attraction in South<br />
America. We’re filling a gap in Lima; some museums<br />
are being remodelled, and others have fallen into<br />
bureaucratic lethargy. The Larco Museum, recently<br />
renovated, with a new, consumer friendly point of<br />
view, has, without a doubt, positioned itself as a<br />
not-to-be-missed, Lima attraction.<br />
What has the evolution of the Larco Museum<br />
been from its founding to today?<br />
The Larco Museum has evolved in different ways; first<br />
in its museographic vision. When the Larco Museum<br />
was founded, its goal was to fill in the chronological<br />
gaps between Peruvian cultures. Since the<br />
remodelling in 2010, the Museum has moved into<br />
a more narrative museological phase, attempting<br />
to understand the ancient Peruvians through their<br />
cosmovision, or vision of the world and their roles<br />
in it. We want to tell history in an interesting and<br />
fun way that ties together current, interdisciplinary<br />
academic research. It is a huge evolution in how<br />
museums relate to people and it will define this age,<br />
though one does not see it yet. What is crystal clear<br />
is that people today like learning about ancient Peru<br />
by visiting the Larco Museum.<br />
Álv
Rodrigo Cabrera<br />
Andrés<br />
arez Calderón<br />
Executive Director of the Larco Museum<br />
/59
INTERVIEW<br />
Renovated display<br />
rooms show pre-<br />
Columbian Peru<br />
beginning in 5,000<br />
b.c., through the<br />
Spanish Viceroyalty,<br />
founded in 1535.<br />
Aside from the museological evolution, there is another<br />
important element in the change: The Larco Museum<br />
changed from being a museum by investigators for<br />
investigators into a museum for the public. That is a very<br />
important evolution. Beyond what the museological<br />
message is, the concept of a museum’s function also<br />
changes. Finally, another important element in the<br />
Museum’s evolution is that it is self-sustainable now<br />
that we have become a model for success.<br />
What is the business model for the<br />
Larco Museum?<br />
We have tried to do what Unesco dictates. Unesco<br />
puts museums into a cultural products category<br />
within a larger cultural industries sector. In order to<br />
remain within the Unesco guidelines, the Museum<br />
must have sound planning, financial management and<br />
marketing. The Larco Museum began thinking about<br />
these questions 15 years ago. By developing and<br />
sticking to a strategic plan, we are beginning to see<br />
the results we hoped for.<br />
We want to create a model that can be reproduced;<br />
to show that one can create a self-sustainable cultural<br />
institution when you combine important pieces and<br />
good business practices. Peru is a country rich in<br />
cultural and touristic resources, but they need to be<br />
turned into attractions and then products. We would<br />
like to serve as a model. We would like to share all the<br />
information we have, and our know-how so experiences<br />
like the Larco Museum can multiply in Peru.<br />
Aside from the Larco Museum, are any<br />
other cultural spaces trying to become<br />
self-sustainable?<br />
Something that we have discovered in the Museum<br />
is that in the cultural sector of Peru there is a belief<br />
that cultural enterprises do not make money. That<br />
said, we have clear examples that culturally related
Larco Museum<br />
IN 1960, THE LARCO<br />
MUSEUM MOVED TO<br />
ITS PRESENT LOCATION<br />
IN PUEBLO LIBRE, A<br />
DISTRICT OF LIMA<br />
Centre: Larco Cafe Restaurant<br />
Museum offers the best in<br />
Peruvian food in an inviting<br />
spot located in an old, Lima<br />
mansion.<br />
Right: A dowry of gold for the<br />
afterlife was buried with the<br />
Lord of Chan Chan.<br />
entities know what they are doing economically and<br />
in their marketing.<br />
In Peru we have some examples of good cultural<br />
resources that became attractions and then finally<br />
products, thanks to smart, private development<br />
efforts. Included are the Caral Special Archaeological<br />
Project, The Huaca of the Moon, The Huaca of the<br />
Witch, and The Huaca Pucllana. The problem with all<br />
of these projects is that they are individual efforts, not<br />
national policies. The directors of these projects are<br />
archaeologists and should be considered heroes in<br />
the conservation of Peruvian cultural patrimony.<br />
How does the Museum see its work in other<br />
areas of the country, outside the north?<br />
The new focus of the Museum is to show all of Peru<br />
like a coherent total. The Museum is still associated<br />
with the ancient cultures of northern Peru because of<br />
its original pieces and, in particular, because of the<br />
quality of the Moche pieces. But the Larco Museum<br />
has an extensive collection that reflects not only the<br />
northern pre-Columbian people, but also the Nasca<br />
and the Incas, among others.<br />
The vision of the Larco Museum is to be the doorway<br />
into ancient Peru. That means that when a child has<br />
to study a pre-Columbian culture, that she can find<br />
a friendly, informative and age appropriate tool that<br />
can help her learn about ancient Peru. We hope<br />
that every Peruvian who really wants to learn about<br />
ancient Peru also visits the Museum, and that visitors<br />
to Lima also stop by the Larco Museum. That is<br />
the vision we are working towards. We have not<br />
gotten there yet, but it is where we are going and will<br />
continue going.<br />
What kind of public is the Larco Museum<br />
trying to reach and why?<br />
As Unesco says, all cultural products should be<br />
/61
INTERVIEW<br />
Larco Museum
The Ritual Room shows the importance of natural for pre Hispanic societies.<br />
/63
INTERVIEW<br />
segmented as no one product can be directed to all<br />
consumers. You need to know whom you are talking,<br />
especially in a museum. And the perception problem<br />
with museums in Peru is that they are considered<br />
boring, largely because of their tradition of antiquated<br />
signage, and dark, because of their poor lighting<br />
and maintenance. That is why we concentrate on<br />
attracting two groups of people whom we consider<br />
to be interested in museums or at least, not afraid of<br />
them.<br />
Part of the success of the Larco Museum has been<br />
to segment the public and be clear about whom<br />
we are trying to attract. We are interested in two<br />
groups. One is the foreign tourist. That is why we<br />
have signage in six languages. The other group<br />
is local students who come to us through the<br />
Museum’s educational programs. The foreign tourist<br />
who comes to Peru typically is interested in culture,<br />
well read, and has visited museums in other parts of<br />
the world. This kind of tourist has rated the Larco<br />
Museum as one of the best in the world. On the<br />
other hand, the students who come to the Museum<br />
learn about Peruvian history through our educational<br />
workshops. Through these workshops, we try to help<br />
students develop a different idea of what museums<br />
are and at the same time, learn about Peru in a fun<br />
and interesting way. We’re developing relationships<br />
with schools that want to integrate learning with<br />
meaningful experiences; creating learning that is<br />
valuable and fun.<br />
What new projects does the Larco Museum<br />
have coming up that support its vision?<br />
We’re going to increase the size of our administrative<br />
area, remodel our classification and storage, expand<br />
our upstairs museum space and redesign the erotic<br />
pottery display. Right now we are in the design stage,<br />
but we are taking our time. We do not want to start<br />
anything until the design is perfect.<br />
WITH OVER 44,000<br />
PIECES CATALOGUED,<br />
THE LARCO MUSEUM WAS<br />
RE-LAUNCHED IN 2010<br />
Left: Through academic<br />
programs, students learn<br />
various ways to know<br />
and understand Peruvian<br />
history.<br />
Right: Enjoying lunch in<br />
the Museo Larco Café<br />
Restaurant is a lovely<br />
part of the experience<br />
of visiting the Larco<br />
Museum.<br />
Larco Museum
Crowns from the Chimu culture.<br />
ARCHAEOLOGY PROGRAM*<br />
(5D/4N)<br />
DAY 1 LIMA<br />
Arrive in Lima and transfer to selected hotel. Visit the<br />
Larco Museum, which has an excellent collection<br />
of pre Hispanic gold and silver pieces, as well as a<br />
superb collection of pre-Columbian, erotic pottery.<br />
DAY 2 LIMA<br />
Visit to the Pachacamac archaeological complex,<br />
located 30 minutes south of Lima. Dine at the<br />
Huaca Pucllana Restaurant. In the afternoon, visit the<br />
National Archaeology and Anthropology Museum.<br />
Fly to the northern city of Chiclayo.<br />
*This program does not include Machu<br />
Picchu as it will be the central theme of our<br />
next edition of Ultimate Journeys.<br />
*Program extension: Full day in the ancient<br />
and Sacred City of Caral. For more<br />
information contact Lima Tours.<br />
DAY 3 CHICLAYO<br />
Visit the Royal Tombs of Sipan Museum followed by<br />
a stop in the local artisan neighbourhood. Then stop<br />
at the Huaca Rajada and the Tucume archaeological<br />
complex. Lunch at the Fiesta Chiclayo Gourmet<br />
Restaurant. Then go to your hotel.<br />
DAY 4 CHICLAYO-TRUJILLO<br />
Go by bus to Trujillo in order to visit the town<br />
of Magdalena de Cao and the Huaca El Brujo<br />
archaeological complex.<br />
Head back to your hotel after lunch.<br />
DAY 5 TRUJILLO<br />
Visit the Huacas of the Sun and of the Moon<br />
archaeological complex. Then head to the<br />
Huanchaco Beach for lunch. In the afternoon, visit<br />
the ancient Chan Chan citadel. In the evening, enjoy<br />
a tour of Trujillo by night.
Focus of<br />
Civilisation<br />
Peru: Five thousand years of Andean societies<br />
Christopher Kleihege
PERU HAS BEEN<br />
WITNESS TO THE<br />
BIRTH OF THE FIRST<br />
COMPLEX SOCIETIES IN<br />
THE AMERICAS. SINCE<br />
THE CIVILISATIONS<br />
OF PERU’S SUPE AND<br />
CASMA VALLEYS<br />
FLOURISHED,<br />
SIMULTANEOUS WITH<br />
THE EGYPTIAN EMPIRE<br />
IN THE MIDDLE EAST,<br />
PERU HAS BEEN HOME<br />
TO SOPHISTICATED<br />
SOCIETIES THAT TODAY<br />
ASTOUND THE WORLD<br />
By<br />
Diego Oliver<br />
The Sacred City<br />
of Caral: Sixty-six<br />
hectares of<br />
monumental<br />
architecture that has<br />
been recognized as<br />
a World Heritage Site<br />
by Unesco.<br />
/67
FOCUS OF CIVILISATION<br />
Caral’s largest<br />
pyramid contrasts<br />
with the fertile Supe<br />
Valley.<br />
Clay statues<br />
discovered during<br />
recent excavations.<br />
Christopher Kleihege<br />
When I was 15, a game called Age of Empires<br />
came out. This strategy game allowed the<br />
player to become a protagonist in the birth of<br />
the European, Asian and Middle Eastern civilisations<br />
from the Stone Age through the Iron Age and all leading<br />
up to the creation of the Roman Empire. You could<br />
choose to be part of any of these civilisations and, as<br />
you progressed from mission to mission, you would<br />
make historic discoveries – from the domestication of<br />
plants to the different types of metals – which would<br />
then allow you to evolve and, over the centuries,<br />
develop your sophistication at war. Between mission<br />
and mission, the hours went by.<br />
I remember thinking that Peru would be perfect for<br />
one of the stories in the game. After all, Peru offered<br />
1.2 million square kilometres of inhospitable desert,<br />
jagged Andean peaks, windswept Altiplano plains and<br />
the exotic Amazon Jungle. It was a place where, over<br />
5,000 years, incredible civilisations had been born, and<br />
the experiences of all of them had eventually led to the<br />
creation the Inca Empire.<br />
Though we know that Peru has been home to humans<br />
since at least 20,000 b.c., the first urban settlements<br />
that demonstrate a complex, social organization were<br />
along the country’s central coast, between the Supe<br />
and Casma Valleys. Archaeological sites at Las Aldas,<br />
Sechin, Caral and Aspero are examples of these<br />
cities and all the sites share the common architectural<br />
element of a sunken, circular central plaza. Radiocarbon<br />
dating has put these communities between 3,000 b.c.<br />
and 2,500 b.c., making them co-existent with other<br />
sophisticated societies in Egypt, China and India. While<br />
research shows that all the cities along this coastal<br />
region were communicating regularly and under one<br />
cultural dominion since the Chavin Empire (15,000 b.c.<br />
to 2,000 b.c.), archaeologists continue to study how<br />
that development happened.<br />
The Chavin culture was centred in Chavin de Huantar,<br />
a high Andean area in Ancash, tucked into a valley<br />
between two 6,000-metre peaks. For decades, the<br />
Chavin were known as the mother of Andean civilisation.<br />
In fact, some scientists believe that the basic structures
Mayu Mohanna<br />
HUMAN REMAIN HAVE<br />
BEEN DISCOVERED<br />
IN PERU DATING BACK<br />
TO 20,000 YEARS B.C<br />
20,000<br />
YEARS B.C<br />
Impressive stonework: Templo<br />
Nuevo at Chavin de Huantar, a<br />
World Heritage Site.<br />
Oracle: This finely carved, stone<br />
statue of the Chavin’s ferocious,<br />
dominant god is called the<br />
Lanzón Monolítico.<br />
of the Quechua language were developed by the Chavin<br />
and became the basis of Quechua before it’s later<br />
influence by the Puquina and Aimara languages. New<br />
research shows that, rather than ruling by decree, the<br />
Chavin adapted their laws and political structures to the<br />
needs and expectations of local peoples. The Chavin<br />
economy was agriculturally based, though they also<br />
had an extensive system of product exchange, which<br />
allowed them to spread their culture valley to valley.<br />
This stage of influence is referred to as the Early Horizon<br />
period and is followed by the Early Intermediate period,<br />
when cultures began growing up across Peru.<br />
During the Early Intermediate period, the <strong>Paracas</strong>, Vicus,<br />
Pukará, Tiahuanaco, Nasca, Moche, Recuay, Lima,<br />
Huarpa, and other less complex or less investigated<br />
cultures, coexisted, expanded and eventually fell into<br />
ruin. The <strong>Paracas</strong> people (II b.c VI a.d.) were most likely<br />
the first. The <strong>Paracas</strong> were able to develop a society<br />
in the hostile environment of Peru’s southern, coastal<br />
desert with an economy based on fishing, collecting<br />
shellfish and agriculture, cultivating in deep holes in<br />
Rodrigo Cabrera<br />
/69
FOCUS OF CIVILISATION<br />
Christian Declercq<br />
Murals like this one found at the<br />
El Brujo archaeological complex<br />
were a principal achievement of the<br />
Moche people.<br />
Left: Wari ceramics, which<br />
have been found in various<br />
archaeological sites across Peru,<br />
are one of the key factors in<br />
determining the reach and breadth<br />
of the Wari civilization.<br />
Right: The Vicus, along with<br />
other neighbouring people on the<br />
northern coast, developed unique<br />
metallurgical forms and techniques.<br />
Renzo Tasso<br />
Gihan Tubbeh
order to reach humid ground. Soon after, other societies<br />
with other languages and their own unique identities<br />
began to develop, each with its own political structure<br />
and culture.<br />
In the north, for example, the Vicus (V b.c. VIII a.d.)<br />
were polytheists who lived primarily from agriculture,<br />
using copper, silver and gold tools along with advanced<br />
systems of irrigation. Analysing the iconography in<br />
their ceramics, archaeologists have been able to make<br />
some assumptions about their social structures and<br />
beliefs. The Vicus developed a social hierarchy similar to<br />
many societies, with a class of nobles connected with<br />
the government, a military class, a commercial class,<br />
farmers and finally slaves.<br />
The Moche people (I VIII a.d.), who also lived along<br />
Peru’s northern coast, spoke the now-extinct muchik<br />
language. The Moche made enormous advances in<br />
hydraulic engineering, architecture and metallurgy. Their<br />
most impressive constructions were huge pyramids and<br />
religious centres, built using vast amounts of human<br />
labour, to adore Ai apaec, a ferocious god whose<br />
image covers the walls of both the Huaca del Sol and<br />
the Huaca de la Luna, Moche ruins found in the desert<br />
outside of Trujillo.<br />
In the flat, Andean Altiplanos, or high plains, that circle<br />
Lake Titicaca, the Pukarás (I b.c. III a.d..) were the first<br />
people to establish an urban development and to<br />
dominate the hostile environment for animal husbandry<br />
and agriculture. The Pukarás raised cattle and other<br />
animals, and farmed using increasingly successful<br />
techniques which eventually led to the creation of the<br />
Tiahuanaco culture (I a.d-XIII a.d.), one of the greatest<br />
Altiplano civilisations of its period, extending from Titicaca<br />
to what today is northern Chile and southern Argentina.<br />
With their enormous capital city with pyramids, plazas and<br />
monoliths sitting on the southern shores of Lake Titicaca,<br />
the Tiahuanaco spread the image of the mythological<br />
god of the Báculos (thought to be the god Wiracocha in<br />
later, Incan society) across its territories.<br />
Like the Tiahuanaco, other civilisations also built<br />
vast and important cities and ceremonial centres. On<br />
Peru’s southern coast, the Nasca (I b.c.-VI a.d.), who<br />
followed the <strong>Paracas</strong> civilisation, built their political and<br />
religious centre in Cahuachi, a huge urban-ceremonial<br />
complex that is remarkable for the social organization<br />
needed for its construction. In addition to Cahuachi, the<br />
Nasca people also created the so-called Nasca Lines,<br />
mysterious engravings in the desert sands that are visible<br />
only from the air. German Archaeologist Maria Reiche<br />
spent years studying the lines and concluded that they<br />
are part of a sophisticated solar calendar. The Nascas<br />
additionally developed a complex system of aqueducts<br />
in order to grow in the desert sands, expanding their<br />
influence up into the mountains of Ayacucho, where<br />
their contemporaries, the Warpas (I b.c. V a.d.), lived.<br />
From this union of cultures, the powerful Wari Empire (VI<br />
a.d. XIII a.d.) was born.<br />
The birth of the Wari ushered in the Middle Horizon<br />
Period, characterised by a large area of Peru being ruled<br />
from an Andean base. The Wari influence grew to cover<br />
Arequipa’s mountain and coastal region, greater Cusco<br />
to the west, and all of Lambayeque to the north, creating<br />
what is known as the first Andean Empire. After centuries<br />
of social, religious and political control, the Wari empire<br />
collapsed and new, local societies were reborn rich with<br />
ancient knowledge and new technological advances.<br />
The Chimú, Chachapoya, Ischmay, Chanca, Huanca,<br />
Chincha, Quechua and Aimara people were these new<br />
kingdoms which would eventually be incorporated into<br />
the Inca Empire (1438-1533).<br />
From the time when the first people of Peru discovered<br />
agriculture and began to settle, their continuous process<br />
of learning about and dominating their environment is<br />
what allowed them to create powerful nations. Today we<br />
can walk through enormous, ancient cities and imagine<br />
what they must have been like filled with thousands<br />
of people. Farmers and fisherman would have been<br />
carrying their goods to the houses of the nobles, who<br />
in turn would make offerings to the gods and distribute<br />
those goods across the lands to feed the armies of<br />
soldiers who protected the empire and the workers<br />
who supported it. Some fought to help expand the<br />
empire, while others built magnificent works of hydraulic<br />
engineering, increasing the cultivable lands. As we look<br />
back, it is clear that Perú is, without a doubt, the cradle<br />
of Americas´s first, complex societies.<br />
Rodrigo Cabrera<br />
The doorway to Rumicolca:<br />
This ancient aqueduct was<br />
built by the Wari between 800<br />
and 1,000 a.d. and later turned<br />
into a control point by the<br />
Incas.<br />
AFTER ALL, PERU<br />
OFFERED 1.2 MILLION<br />
SQUARE KILOMETRES OF<br />
INHOSPITABLE DESERT,<br />
JAGGED ANDEAN<br />
PEAKS, WINDSWEPT<br />
ALTIPLANO PLAINS AND<br />
THE EXOTIC AMAZON<br />
JUNGLE. IT WAS A PLACE<br />
WHERE, OVER 5,000<br />
YEARS, INCREDIBLE<br />
CIVILISATIONS HAD<br />
BEEN BORN<br />
/71
CULTURALLY BIODIVERSE<br />
SEVENTY PER CENT<br />
OF THE WORLD’S<br />
BIOLOGICAL DIVERSITY<br />
EXISTS IN JUST<br />
THREE COUNTRIES.<br />
LOCATED ALONG THE<br />
EQUATOR, THESE<br />
THREE COUNTRIES ARE<br />
KNOWN FOR THEIR<br />
MEGA DIVERSITY AND<br />
FOR THE FACT THAT,<br />
INCREDIBLY, AND<br />
DESPITE THEIR RICH<br />
BIOLOGY, THEY COVER<br />
ONLY 10 PER CENT OF<br />
THE PLANET. ONE OF<br />
THEM IS PERU.<br />
By<br />
Iñigo Maneiro<br />
Farm dwellings at<br />
over 4,000 metres<br />
above sea level.
Christian Declercq<br />
Culturally<br />
Biodiverse<br />
Nature and Civilisation<br />
/75
CULTURALLY BIODIVERSE<br />
Gihan Tubbeh<br />
The Andes divide Peru into a desert coastal region dotted with agriculturally<br />
rich valleys that reaches from the Amazon to the Pacific. The confluence of<br />
the Humboldt and El Nino Currents along Peru’s long Pacific Coast makes the<br />
Peruvian sea one of the world’s richest in fish and crustacean production.<br />
At the same time, the Andes give birth to many of the Amazon’s most powerful<br />
rivers. The rainforest areas of the high jungle where waters from the Andes rush<br />
towards the Amazon are habitat to many of the world’s bird, animal, insect and<br />
plant species. The Manu and Alto Purús National Parks offer unique opportunities<br />
to see unspoiled natural habitats.<br />
There are over 3,000 registered varieties of<br />
potato in Peru, many of which were domesticated<br />
in ancient times.<br />
Man and the sea: This millennial relationship<br />
developed by early Peruvian fisherman, continues<br />
today.<br />
Jirishanca, Mountain, 6,094 metres at its peak<br />
NATURE AND CIVILISATION<br />
In Peru the diverse geography means that the country has all kinds of records.<br />
For example, Peru has the most varied number of classified life zones: 84 of 117;<br />
and of different climates: 28 out of 32. This level of bio and eco diversity goes<br />
hand in hand with cultural diversity and Peru, like the Mediterranean, China and<br />
Mesoamerica, was the seat of one of the great world civilisations. Peru also has<br />
contributed to world agriculture and breeding with the domestication of potatoes,<br />
quinua, Guinea Pigs, Llama and Alpaca.<br />
Throughout Peruvian history, different cultures adapted and developed within the<br />
rich biodiversity of the country. Sophisticated coastal cultures such as the Nasca,<br />
Moche and Sicán developed complex canal systems, cities and temples that<br />
dominated the desert landscapes. Today we have archaeological remains at Caral,<br />
where a large and complex society once ruled; an observatory at Chanquillo; and,<br />
at Ventarron, the oldest coloured murals in the Americas.<br />
Christian Declercq<br />
Luis Yupanqui
Heinz Plenge<br />
Walter Silvera<br />
In the Amazon region, where over 50, independent indigenous groups live, different<br />
communities classify and use plants for medicinal purposes. These plants later have<br />
been used by pharmaceutical companies to make medicines, cosmetics and foods.<br />
Recent examples are Peruvian Achiote, Uña de Gato, Quina and Cacao. The exuberant<br />
jungle environment, with its record number of birds, plants and butterflies, forms part<br />
of the world vision of the people who live here. In this world, plants and animals share<br />
a “humanity”, or life energy, that is not exclusively human. The indigenous beliefs teach<br />
that having this relationship of equals allows protection of the environment and future<br />
sustainability.<br />
In the Sierra, the different cultures have dominated the rough geography and difficult<br />
climate, and many people, including Andean pastors, live at altitudes over 5,000 metres<br />
above sea level. For thousands of years, and until the Inca were conquered by the<br />
Spanish, Andean people built important empires including the Chachapoyas in the<br />
north, the Wari in the Central Sierra, and finally the Inca, who constructed an enormous<br />
empire that covered what today is much of Bolivia, Peru, Ecuador, Chile and Argentina,<br />
and left the wonder that is Machu Picchu.<br />
The Peruvian Amazon is a reserve of<br />
invaluable biological treasures waiting<br />
to be rediscovered.<br />
Peru is habitat to 1,800 species of<br />
birds.<br />
/77
CULTURALLY BIODIVERSE<br />
pERuviAn<br />
woRld RECoRdS<br />
}<br />
José Barragán<br />
PLANTS<br />
Heinz Plenge<br />
THE oCEAn RiCHEST in plAnkTon<br />
And pHYToplAnkTon in THE woRld<br />
84 LIFE ZONES<br />
28 CLIMATES<br />
4,400<br />
182<br />
USED FOR HUMAN CONSUMPTION<br />
(1,200 PLANTS USED FOR FOOD;<br />
1,500 PLANTS USED FOR MEDICINE)<br />
NATIVE, DOMESTICATED PLANTS<br />
máS dE:<br />
2,000 FISH<br />
3,500 BUTTERFLIES<br />
4,000 VARIETIES OF POTATO<br />
3,500 ORCHIDS<br />
1,800 BIRDS
AGENDA<br />
AGENDA<br />
RANTIKUY FAIR<br />
December 24th, Cusco’s Plaza de Armas<br />
springs to life as over 1,400 artisans from<br />
Cusco, Apurimac, Huancavelica, Ayacucho<br />
and Arequipa set up the Santurantikuy Fair.<br />
Santurantikuy, literally “buy a saint from me” in<br />
Quechua has, over the years, become a major<br />
attraction for locals and tourists as artisans from<br />
around the Andes sell their best work.<br />
LIMA THEATRE FESTIVAL<br />
Lima’s downtown, historical district will be the site of this year’s Lima<br />
Theatre Festival, from the 9th to the 30th of November. This year, over<br />
20 companies from around the world will perform representing, among<br />
other nations, Argentina, Australia, Chile, Colombia, The United States, the<br />
United Kingdom, Belgium, Bolivia and Spain. For more information visit:<br />
www.limacultura.pe.<br />
SOMOS LIBRES<br />
The MATE Museum in Barranco shows Somos<br />
libres, We Are Free, a show of modern art from<br />
the collection of Mario Testino, the well-known,<br />
Peruvian fashion photographer, from October 15,<br />
2013 through April 6, 2014. The show’s curator, Neville<br />
Wakefield, has chosen a number of interesting pieces<br />
including works by Cindy Sherman, Richard Prince and<br />
Paul McCarthy. Tuesdays through Saturdays from 11<br />
a.m. to 8 p.m. and Sundays from 11 a.m. until 6 p.m.<br />
409 Avenida Pedro de Osma, Barranco.<br />
Visit www.mate.pe<br />
THE RURAQ MAKI FAIR OF HANDMADE GOODS<br />
Peruvian folk art will be on sale at the popular Ruraq<br />
Maki Fair from December 13 to the 22nd. Over 50 artist<br />
collectives from regions around Peru will be on hand to<br />
sell their locally made wares.
THE HUACONADA DANCE FROM JUNIN<br />
La huaconada, a ritualized dance from the town of Mito in the Junin<br />
Province, is danced annually during the first days of the new year.<br />
Groups of men wearing masks and called huacones perform a<br />
series represent ancient times and the advice of people from the past,<br />
and they have maximum authority over the village while the celebration<br />
lasts. Their whips, called thunderers, and their masks with long, beaked<br />
noses that evoke the beaks of the condor, represent the spirit of the<br />
sacred mountains, evidenced by the importance of their role. The<br />
huaconada was declared an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity<br />
by Unesco in 2010.<br />
CONCERTS<br />
NOVEMBER<br />
Luis Miguel (November 7)<br />
The Psycho Real (November 7)<br />
Japandroids (November 8)<br />
Ringo Starr (November 11)<br />
Prince Joyce (November 15)<br />
Yngwie Malmsteem (November 18)<br />
Marc Anthony, Don Omar y Ola Tañon (November 19)<br />
Manuelcha Prado, Los Campesinos y Manuel Silva (November 21)<br />
Philip Glass (November 23)<br />
Orquesta Sinfónica Nacional (November 29)<br />
Gian Marco, Fonseca, Noel y Alberto Plaza (November 30)<br />
DECEMBER<br />
Kreator y D.R.I (December 3)<br />
Incubus (December 5)<br />
Los Tres (December 6)<br />
Bret Michaels (December 10)<br />
You can buys tickets through:<br />
Tu Entrada (www.tuentrada.com.pe)<br />
Teleticket (www.teleticket.com.pe)<br />
Punto Ticket (www.puntoticket.pe)<br />
FESTIVAL OF EUROPEAN CINEMA<br />
The Catholic University of Lima hosts the 25th<br />
annual European Film Festival from October<br />
22 through November 17. Organized by the<br />
University’s filmoteca, over 300 movies will be screened<br />
in theatres around Lima.<br />
For more information check:<br />
www.centroculturalpucp.com<br />
/filmoteca/festival-de-cine-europeo-2013.html.<br />
/81
EXPAT<br />
Giuseppe<br />
Orefici<br />
By<br />
Iñigo Maneiro<br />
ITALIAN ARCHAEOLOGIST AND ARCHITECT, GIUSEPPE OREFICI, 67, IS THE DIRECTOR OF INVESTIGATION AT THE ANTONINI<br />
MUSEUM AND RESPONSIBLE FOR THE ON GOING RESEARCH AT THE CAHUACHI TEMPLE, BOTH LOCATED IN NASCA.<br />
When did you first arrive in Peru?<br />
I came to Peru in 1977 because there was a job for an archaeologist in the rural<br />
southern jungle area. And I stayed. Since then I have worked in Madre de Dios,<br />
Yurimanguas, Ausangate and, primarily, in Nasca where I began my research<br />
on Cahuachi in 1984.<br />
What differences have you found on both a personal and professional<br />
level between other countries where you worked and Peru?<br />
In Peru I have found high quality people, and of course, a language that,<br />
because it is easy for me, has allowed me to work in the country. I continue<br />
to work in other countries but I have a special relationship with Peru where we<br />
have developed so many projects: The Antonioni Museum, The Investigation<br />
Centre, and my work in Cahuachi…….<br />
What is archaeological work like?<br />
Like ants we work slowly, steadily and within a distinct time frame and perspective.<br />
For example, cleaning a 10-metre-long wall takes three people 10 full days.<br />
What does a visit to Cahuachi add to the Nasca experience?<br />
A tourist visit to Nasca should most definitely include a visit to Cahuachi because<br />
it was the largest and most important cultural centre for the Nasca people for<br />
over 1,000 years. A visit to Cahuachi helps one understand the people, and<br />
thus better understand the monumental significance of the geoglyphs the locals<br />
created, and the enormous artistic effort that it took to do so.<br />
Recently there have been new archaeological discoveries in Huarmey.<br />
Is there a limit to what we can find in Peru and in the paradigm changes<br />
each of these discoveries implies?<br />
Today, there is a deep understanding of the archaeological history of Peru for<br />
the past 2,000 years, but the key to the future, at least for me, moves into the<br />
jungle regions and continues in the Andean zones. The jungle is where we are<br />
going to make new discoveries and therefore more deeply understand all of our<br />
ancient history.<br />
What is the vision of Peru in Italy? What grabs people’ s attention the<br />
most?<br />
Obviously, the Incas. There is very little knowledge about earlier Peruvian<br />
civilisations. Peru is a country that seems very far away for Italians, though<br />
it is well known for its important cultural history. Italians who visit Peru are<br />
impressed not only with the country’s rich cultural traditions, but also with her<br />
history, folklore traditions and natural beauty. Still, from the Italian perspective,<br />
the archaeological monuments in Peru, and in Mexico, are the most important<br />
historical objects in Latin American and therefore attract the most interest.<br />
Why did you decide to stay and work in Peru?<br />
I stayed because of my relationship with the ancient Nasca people. I think their<br />
culture dominated others, and reflects an extremely complex relationship with<br />
their deities that shows that the search for and aspiration towards a spiritual life<br />
was a central aspect of the Nasca vision. That fascinates me and is the core<br />
reason I stayed in Peru to study the Nasca people.<br />
What would you like to see happen next?<br />
I would like to see the work at Cahuachi finished, though I do not think it will<br />
happen in my lifetime because of the amount of work still to be done. Still,<br />
I would like to see at least that the path to that work is well defined for the<br />
future; that we have a site that is illuminated; that there are cultural activities<br />
that teach visitors about the culture; and that tourists can come and learn<br />
about the Nasca people.
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