Viva Lewes Issue #153 June 2019

FOOD REVIEW
Pelham Arms
A carnivore’s delight
Photo by Joe Fuller
A table at The Pelham
Arms is a hot ticket
at the moment. Attempting
to fit in an
early booking before a
show proved difficult,
so two of Viva’s own
decided to go for a
Friday afternoon lunch
instead. You wouldn’t
have known it from
the ambiance however,
the pub was bustling
with citizens commencing their early May bank
holiday festivities early.
Sat at a nice table by a window, we are told about
the ale options on tap. I go for an Abyss Brewing
Tropical Thunder IPA (6.2%, £3.50 for a 2/3
pint), a concoction by landlord, Andrew, which
originated from the cellars of The Pelham Arms
itself. It’s smoother and more floral than many
pale ales, and goes down very easily indeed. Kelly
opts for the fair-traded Karma Gingerella (£3),
one of the “nicest ginger beers I’ve ever had”.
We take different paths on the mains. I am curious
about Pelham’s own smokehouse, so go all-in
on a barbeque platter (£18), while Kelly settles
on a spiced bean burger (£12). I missed the line
on the menu suggesting that the platter is a ‘great
one to share’ and am bowled over when the feast
arrives. The smokehouse has worked wonders on
this carnivore’s delight: the pork belly is heavily
smoked, resulting in a distinctly scrumptious,
memorable flavour. It is crisply coated, almost
to the point of being burnt, which complements
the succulent texture of the meat. The quantity
is noteworthy, coming in at approximately
quadruple the size of
a typical pork belly
portion.
The chicken leg is a
subtler counterpoint to
the pork belly – tasty in
a quieter way – whereas
the chunky Holmansbridge
Farm sausages
have a hearty flavour
and a satisfying crumbly
texture to them.
The slaw is fresh and
lemony, and the dish is topped by house pickles,
which do a good job of soaking up the flavour of
the sausages. I suggest getting some house chips
(£3.50), and sharing the platter.
The spiced bean burger has a small kick to it
– but “not too spicy” – and is certainly big and
messy, as the menu warns. Kelly explains that
this is a good thing, when compared to the dry
patties that vegetarians are often saddled with; the
chunky guacamole, cheese and chipotle mayo on
the burger – and the house chips included in the
£12 price – add to the indulgent effect.
Our paths converge when it comes to dessert,
with neither of us able to look past the sticky
toffee pudding with toffee sauce and Downsview
Farm vanilla ice cream (£6.50). The sponge is
gooey and not too dense, and the pudding swam
happily in a lovely, sweet and sugary toffee sauce.
Finally, I’d like to pass on my thanks to the
person or algorithm behind the music. She’s a
Mystery to Me by Roy Orbison was one highlight,
alongside one of the best pop songs ever: Up on
the Roof by The Drifters. Joe Fuller
thepelhamarms.co.uk, 01273 476149
81