British Travel Journal | Summer 2019

BRITISH TRAVEL 

JOURNAL 

SUMMER 2019 | ISSUE 02 

BritishTravelJournal.com 

CITY | COAST | COUNTRY 

sea to shore 

GOURMAND’S TOUR 

OF CORNWALL WITH 

NATHAN OUTLAW 

WIN 

a luxury 

short break 

staying on 

a floating 

hotel! 

weekend adventure 

48 HOURS AT CORNWALL'S MOST FAMOUS 

SURF DESTINATION, FISTRAL BEACH, NEWQUAY 

blue sky thinking 

DISCOVER WORLD-CLASS OPEN AIR THEATRE 

LOCATIONS FROM CLIFF TOPS TO ABBEY RUINS 

£5.00 

EVENTS ■ IDYLLIC DESTINATIONS ■ MICHELIN STAR RESTAURANTS ■ LUXURY HOTELS ■ NEW EXPERIENCES

WHICH IS THE MOST ICONIC 

HOTEL IN THE UK? 

#Siblingrivalry 

CHEWTON GLEN, HAMPSHIRE 

CLIVEDEN HOUSE, BERKSHIRE 

THE LYGON ARMS, COTSWOLDS 

11 CADOGAN GARDENS, LONDON 

ICONICLUXURYHOTELS.COM

EDITOR’S LETTER 

C O N T R I B U T I O N S 


JOURNAL 


WELCOME 

EDITORS 

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jessica Way 

FEATURES EDITOR Samantha Rutherford 

CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Angela Harding 

EXPERT CONTRIBUTORS 

FOOD & DRINK Chantal Borciani 

ARTS & CULTURE Melanie Abrams 

HISTORY & HERITAGE Robin Glover 

SHOPPING & LIFESTYLE Emma Johnson 

DESTINATION SPECIALIST Adrian Mourby 

TRAVEL & ADVENTURE Max Wooldridge 

AUTHENTIC TOURS Jules Mittra 

OUTDOORS & EVENTS Felix Rowe 

FRONT COVER IMAGE 

The Headland Hotel 

Fistral Beach, Newquay, Cornwall 

headlandhotel.co.uk 

PUBLISHED BY 

CONTISTA MEDIA 

Mitchell House, Brook Avenue, Warsash, 

Southampton, SO31 9HP 

MAIN SWITCHBOARD 01489 660680 

contistamedia.co.uk 

KEEP IN TOUCH 

BritishTravelJournal 

BTravelJournal 

PROUD TO BE IN PARTNERSHIP WITH 

HOORAY IT’S THE SUMMER! – and 

all I want to do is travel – I want to 

see as much of the British Isles in this 

glistening sunshine as I possibly can, 

and with tourism in the UK rising rapidly from 

previous years, it seems I am not alone. 

While it’s always fun to take time out exploring 

our stunning landscapes and visiting our cultural 

attractions, when the weather is warm, it adds so 

much more to the enjoyment of the experience. 

Like touring the new South West Coast 300 driving route in Scotland for example – 

watching a beautiful sunset each evening, stopping off to enjoy ice-cream, and walking 

barefoot along the beach, p48. 

Our food columnist, Chantal Borciani, has been enjoying the coast too, with 

my second favourite ‘s’ of the summer, ‘seafood’ – Nathan Outlaw takes her on a 

gourmand’s tour of the spectacular Cornish coastline, p30. I was lucky enough to visit the 

wonderful new Machrie Hotel on the Isle of Islay, which you can read more about in our 

‘In search of Scotch Whisky’ feature, p42. 

Heading further inland, in anticipation of the Championships, the Grand Slam tennis 

tournament, we are behind-the-scenes at Wimbledon, p36 – where we look forward 

to biting on some delicious strawberries while watching the challengers to defending 

champions Novak Djokovic and Angelique Kerber. 

Trying your hand at something new is an essential part of every travel writers agenda 

– and highlights this season include; playing on the new Padel courts at Stoke Park, p11; 

learning to ride the waves at surfer’s paradise, Fistral Beach, Newquay, p70; joining a 

cookery class to improve the culinary skills, p86; and finding adventures after-dark with 

our 10 unique experiences, p22. 

Luxury hotels and places to stay have not gone unnoticed this season either, as 

we visit the hotel Meghan and Harry chose for their private getaway, Heckfield Place, 

p80; bring you a round-up of some of the finest coastal retreats, p84; and offer you the 

opportunity to win an unforgettable stay in a beautifully styled cabin aboard Edinburgh’s 

new floating hotel, Fingal, p26! 

Together with our regular Travel News, p11, Cultural Agenda, p15, and travel 

itineraries, from p48, I hope this issue of British Travel Journal continues to inspire your 

upcoming travel plans – and that the sun keeps shining! Wishing everyone a wonderful 

summer. u 

Jessica x 

Contista Media Ltd cannot accept responsibility for 

unsolicited submissions, manuscripts and photographs. 

While every care is taken prices and details are subject to 

change and Contista Media Ltd take no responsibility for 

omissions or errors. We reserve the right to publish 

and edit any letters. All rights reserved. 

Jessica Way, Editor-In-Chief 

Jessica@britishtraveljournal.com 

BritishTravelJournal.com 3

Do sEThiG 

MigT 

A fantastic series of fully supported, one-day hiking marathons all 

over the UK. Every Mighty Hike is easily accessible and will take 

you to some of the most beautiful and unspoiled parts of our country. 

Bring your family, bring your friends and take a step forward for people 

living with cancer. 

Find out more and sign up at 

macmillan.org.uk/mightyhikes 

Macmillan Cancer Support, registered charity in England and 

Wales (261017), Scotland (SC039907) and the Isle of Man (604). 

Also operating in Northern Ireland.

30 

CONTENTS 


Fingal, Edinburgh 

Jubilee Pool Penzance 

36 

The Championships, Wimbledon 

26 

C O M P E T I T I O N 

26 

WIN A NIGHT 

OF LUXURY 

IN EDINBURGH... 

We are offering you and 

your companion the 

chance to stay aboard 

Fingal, in Edinburgh, 

including tickets to The 

Royal Yacht Britannia 

with a delicious 

Champagne Cream Tea! 

JOTTINGS 

11 

TRAVEL NEWS 

A look at what’s new, and travel 

noteworthy, in the British Isles. 

CULTURAL AGENDA 

15Dates for your diary of things you 

don’t want to miss out on this summer. 

10 UNIQUE EXPERIENCES 

22 YOU MUST TRY AFTER DARK 

Moonwalks, night running, star-gazing, 

late-evening kayaking, rope-swinging... 

Finding the fun when the lights go down! 

29 VICTUALS 

Discover what’s new in the scene 

of British hospitality, Michelin-star chefs, 

restaurants, hotels and spas. 

FEATURES 

30 

NATHAN OUTLAW: 

SEA TO SHORE 

Michelin star-chef Nathan Outlaw takes our 

food columnist on a gourmand’s tour of the 

wonderful Cornish coastline. 

TOP SEEDS: BEHIND THE 

36 SCENES AT WIMBLEDON 

Welcome to Wimbledon – one of the world’s 

most prestigious British sporting spectacles. 

IN SEARCH OF 

42 SCOTCH WHISKY 

There are many reasons to visit Scotland, but 

its popular whisky industry is surely one of the 

best! We take a look at the brands and which 

distilleries to visit. à 


E D I T O R B U Y S 

48 

Diamond Reef 

Knot Pendant 

£1,160 

sheilafleet.com 

ITINERARIES 

48 

SCOTLAND’S SOUTH 

WEST COAST 300 

Jessica Way explores the magnificent beauty 

of the new SWC300 touring route - a stunning 

drive of over 300 miles along the coast of 

South West Scotland. 

THE GREAT WEST WAY 

56 England’s first ever touring route, 

destined to become one of the premier 

routes in Europe, and probably the world. 

IN FOCUS: PETWORTH 

64 Discover this pretty historic market 

town, home to the National Trust’s Petworth 

House and Park, West Sussex. 

WEEKEND BREAK: FISTRAL 

70 BEACH, NEWQUAY 

A surf paradise serving the country’s finest 

pasties – it’s no wonder this Cornish coastline 

is home to one of the nation's favourite 

seaside towns. 

Loudoun Hill and the 

Spirit Of Scotland 

sculpture by Richard 

Price, near Darvel, 

East Ayrshire 

© VisitScotland/ Paul Tomkins 

GIFT TO ALL 

SUBSCRIBERS! 

Subscribe to British Travel Journal 

today and receive the ultimate in travel 

size luxury toiletries - worth £20! 

See page 40 for more or visit: 

britishtraveljournal.com 

/subscribe 40 

LIFESTYLE 

75 INVESTOR 

There has never been a more provident 

time to invest in Modern British Art – owning a 

piece of British art history, buying something 

beautiful, that may eventually provide a return 

on your investment. 

HECKFIELD PLACE 

80 Chantal Borciani discovers the hotel 

Meghan and Harry chose for their private 

getaway – An exquisite new hotel redefining 

British country stays. 

ESCAPE TO THE COAST 

84 Stay in a beautiful beach lodge, chic 

apartment or exquisite cottage, where you can 

listen to the waves, just steps from the beach, 

looking out to magnificent views. 

DAY TRIPPER 

86 

COOKERY SCHOOLS 

Whether you are a budding chef 

wanting to finesse your culinary skills or you 

just want to try something new, a course at 

one of the UK’s best cookery schools is a must. 

BLUE SKY THINKING: 

92 OPEN AIR THEATRE 

From cliff tops to abbey ruins, witness worldclass 

open-air theatre this summer at a range 

of iconic British locations. 

FOR YOUR JOURNEY 

98 Latest books, travel gadgets and our 

British travel inspired crossword. 

6 BritishTravelJournal.com

WE A RE... 

THE D ISCOVERERS 

NAVI GATE OUR SEA 

KINGDOM WHERE IS 

WOND ERS MEET THE 

…wandering the enchanted glens 

with the breeze that travels over 

plains and mountains, to the towering 

chasms that cascade to the depths 

of our emerald sea. 

Imagine a place where we, the Discoverers, 

roam through landscapes carved by Mother Nature 

and lit by distant stars. We stroll along coastal 

paths kissed by the dramatic seascapes that 

surround our magical Island, seek out the 

unexpected and the extraordinary, and wake 

up in sublime surroundings where we are 

reminded how life should be. 

ROUTE KEY 

PLANE 

FERRY

WHO 

BOUND 

LAND 

WATER...

THE GREAT BRITISH ESCAPE! 

STOKE PARK 

Stoke Park is a luxury 5 AA Red Star Hotel, Spa and Country Club set within 300 

acres of beautiful parkland and offers world-class sporting and leisure facilities. 

FACILITIES INCLUDE: 

• 49 Bedrooms and Suites 

• Award winning Spa 

• 27 hole Championship Golf 

Course 

• David Leadbetter Golf Academy 

• 3 Restaurants and Bars, including 

Humphry’s (3 AA Rosettes) 

• 13 Tennis Courts (indoor, grass 

and artificial clay) 

• 2 Padel Courts 

• Indoor Pool 

• State-of-the-art Gym with Fitness, 

Hot Yoga and Spinning Studios 

hosting up to 50 classes per week 

• Tinies Kids Club and Crèche 

• Games Room 

• Playground 

For Hotel Reservations please call 01753 717171 or email reservations@stokepark.com 

Stoke Park, Park Road, Stoke Poges, Buckinghamshire SL2 4PG | www.stokepark.com

TRAVEL NEWS 

W H A T ' S N E W 

Destinations | Renovations | Launches | Celebrations 

QUEEN OF THE HEBRIDES 

The Machrie Hotel and Links on the 

stunning Isle of Islay, nestled beside seven 

miles of pristine beach, has now opened. 

campbellgrayhotels.com 

See also 

page 45 

BE ONE OF THE FIRST TO TRAVEL ON THE NEW CALEDONIAN SLEEPER! 

New Caledonian Sleeper carriages have now been unveiled on the Lowlander route between 

London and Glasgow/Edinburgh, and on the Highlander route between London and Aberdeen, 

Inverness and Fort William. Designed to accommodate the modern-day traveller, the new trains 

offer rooms with double beds and en-suites – for the first time in the history of Caledonian 

Sleeper. Other new features include a hotel-style keycard entry system, charging panels and 

WiFi throughout the train. To find out more or to book a journey visit sleeper.scot 

STEAM DREAMS 

A new vintage steam train service (from 

4 June) offers journeys from London’s 

Waterloo Station to Windsor with 

elegant Pullman Style Dining carriages. 

royalwindsorsteamexpress.co.uk 

A SOLID SOLUTION 

WE LOVE 

PIONEERING IN PADEL 

With predictions the sport is on the cusp of a 

British breakthrough, Stoke Park has become the 

first 5 Star Hotel in the UK to open Padel courts 

for members and guests staying in the hotel. 

stokepark.com 

HAWKSTONE HALL 

This magnificent Grade I listed 18th Century 

mansion in Shropshire, set within 88 acres, has 

for the first time in its 550 year history, opened its 

doors as a luxurious 37-bedroom hotel. 

hawkstonehall.co.uk 

These solid beauty bars mean no more 

liquids and no more leaks when travelling! 

ethiqueworld.com 


TRAVEL NEWS 

TRIPLE WIN FOR YORKSHIRE 

Yorkshire Sculpture Park might have 

only just opened its new £3.6 million 

visitor centre, The Weston, but it's already 

winning, with three awards, from this 

year's RIBA Yorkshire Awards. ysp.org.uk 

SUNDAY MOVIE CLUB SHOWING ICONIC BRITISH CLASSICS 

Sunborn London has announced the re-launch of their Sunday Movie Club, with the 

new theme – Best of British. Enjoy Afternoon Tea followed by a screening of some of the 

most classic and well known movies of all time, including; Four Weddings and a Funeral, 

The King’s Speech, Bridget Jones’ Diary and many more, held in the grand, spacious 

auditorium located in the bow of the boat. Open to hotel residents and visitors to the 

yacht alike. Sunborn London is located adjacent to the ExCel centre and close to local 

attractions including the O2, Greenwich and the Emirates Air Line. Traditional Afternoon 

Tea with Laurent Perrier tasting and movie is priced £50 per person sunbornlondon.com 

WINDERMERE JETTY LAUNCH 

The brand new museum of boats, steam 

and stories where visitors can sail on 

Osprey, a fully-restored Edwardian 

steam launch, has now opened its doors. 

windermerejetty.org 

INSTAGRAM HIGHLIGHT 

"The Kelpies, 30-metre-high statues can 

be visited free at The Helix (Falkirk). The 

largest equine sculptures in the world..." 

instagram.com/britishtraveljournal 

FIFTY OF THE UK'S FINEST HOTELS HAVE BEEN FOUND 

For the first time in its 37-year history, Pride of Britain Hotels has reached its self-imposed 

limit of 50 hotels, with the introduction of The Royal Crescent Hotel & Spa, Bath, into its 

collection of luxury independently-owned hotels - while Calcot & Spa, set within 220 

acres of meadowland in the Cotswolds, has been named Pride of Britain Hotel of the Year 

2019 for delivering outstanding hospitality. prideofbritainhotels.com 

#britishtraveljournal 


EXPERIENCE MORE 

WITH PRIDE OF BRITAIN HOTELS 

ON THE COAST 

DISCOVER ALL OUR EXPERIENCES ONLINE TODAY 

www.prideofbritainhotels.com/experiences 

THE ART OF GREAT HOSPITALITY 

Independently Owned | Luxury & Boutique Hotels | 50 Member Hotel Limit 

0808 250 3121 • prideofbritainhotels.com

Unforgettable Cornwall Holidays 

DISCOVER YOUR CORNISH GEM 

Let Cornish Gems set the scene for your holiday highlife in Cornwall. 

Choose from 180 luxury holiday homes offering beautiful settings for groups of up to 20. 

BEACH APARTMENTS • COUNTRY HOUSES • COASTAL COTTAGES • DOG FRIENDLY 

cornishgems.com | 01872 241 241

CULTURAL AGENDA 

H O T T H I S S E A S O N 

Exhibitions | Museums | Galleries | Shows | Events 

Words | Melanie Abrams 

HIGHLIGHT 

Colour and Light: The 

Art and Influence of the 

Scottish Colourists 

18 OCTOBER 

2019-JANUARY 2020 

Featuring at the Lake District's 

Abbot Hall Art Gallery 

this exhibition presents the 

work of and influences of 

Scottish Colourists... centred 

on master-works from the 

renowned Fleming Collection 

which is the finest collection 

of Scottish art outside public 

museums and institutions. It 

follows their major summer 

show of Turner and Ruskin (p18) 

abbothall.org.uk 

à 

S J Peploe, Luxembourg Gardens, c. 1910, The Fleming Wyfold Collection 


A Midsummer Night's Dream at Shakespeare's Rose 

Theatre, York. Photo by Ant Robling Photography 

T H E A T R E & S H O W S 

WHAT WE'RE BOOKING 

Shakespeare’s Rose Theatre 

25 JUNE-01 SEPTEMBER (YORK) 

08 JULY-07 SEPTEMBER (BLENHEIM PALACE) 

13th century Clifford’s Tower in York and 

Blenheim Palace in Oxfordshire form the 

backdrops for a summer of Shakespeare. See 

popular works like Hamlet and Macbeth in a 

pop up playhouse inspired by the bard’s 1587 

Rose Theatre. Whilst the surrounding re-created 

Elizabethan villages set the medieval mood. 

shakespearerosetheatre.com 

Jean Paul Gaultier: Fashion Freak Show 

23 JULY-02 AUGUST 

After over two million people visited his 

exhibition, The Fashion World of Jean Paul 

Gaultier, on its marathon global tour, the 

provocative fashion designer is now telling 

his story in cabaret. The extravagant, 

unconventional show at London’s Southbank 

Centre mirrors his fashion. Don your feathers 

and corsets for this stylish party. 

southbankcentre.co.uk 

The Illusionists 

06 JULY-01 SEPTEMBER 

Abracadabra – The Illusionists re-appear at 

London’s Shaftesbury Theatre. Among the mind 

bending line-up are the stylish card tricks of Yo 

Ho Jin and daredevil escapology by Jonathan 

Goodwin who can also throw a knife or two. 

Then there’s Adam Trent’s high tech tricks with 

his music and comedy interludes. See them 

before they disappear. 

theillusionistslive.com 

Uncle Vanya 

18 JULY-03 AUGUST 

Bath’s Grade II listed Georgian theatre hosts one 

of this season’s most tantalising stage debuts. 

Upper crust actor, Rupert Everett turns director 

in a new version of Anton Chekhov’s Uncle 

Vanya at the Theatre Royal by award-winning 

playwright, David Hare. This re-mastered tale of 

disruption and unrequited love also stars Everett. 

theatreroyal.co.uk 

Jean Paul Gaultier: Fashion Freak Show 

The Illusionists: Card tricks of Yo Ho Jin 

Rupert Everett to star in Uncle Vanya 

Theatre Royal Bath 


John Frederick Lewis: Blackburn, In the Bezestein, 

El Khan Khalil, Cairo 

E X H I B I T I O N S 

WHAT WE'RE SEEING 

Natalia Goncharova 

06 JUNE-08 SEPTEMBER 

Discover the breath-taking versatility of early 

20th century Russian avant garde artist, Natalia 

Goncharova, who has her first UK retrospective 

at Tate Modern. Alongside her vivid paintings 

and lithographs of Russian life, discover her book 

designs, textiles and experimental costumes and 

set designs for Sergei Diaghilev’s iconic Ballets 

Russes including The Firebird. 

tate.org.uk 

Cindy Sherman 133.15 Untitled Film Still # 15 

John Frederick Lewis 

09 JULY-03 NOVEMBER 

For an exotic tour of Cairo to Constantinople in 

the 19th century, head to the Watts Gallery in 

Compton village, Surrey which is showing the 

oils and watercolours of British Orientalist artist, 

John Frederick Lewis. His detailed vibrant images 

bring alive his heady lifestyle from busy bazaars to 

romantic gardens. 

wattsgallery.org.uk 

Keith Haring 

14 JUNE-10 NOVEMBER 

With the 1980s en vogue, head to Tate 

Liverpool to immerse yourself in the decade. 

For the dockside gallery is celebrating one of the 

era’s poster boys, Keith Haring. Ahead of his 

time, he even put subway drawings on gallery 

walls. Alongside his cartoon-like works, his 

collaborations with Madonna, Grace Jones and 

other 80s icons are there too. 

tate.org.uk 

Cindy Sherman 

27 JUNE-15 SEPTEMBER 

The National Portrait Gallery is hosting 

this summer’s blockbuster - the UK’s first 

retrospective of American artist, Cindy Sherman. 

Around 180 images of her manipulated selfies 

since the 1970s will be on display including 

her ground breaking Untitled Film Series, 

Centerfolds and others never seen before. 

npg.org.uk 

Edouard Vuillard: The Poetry Of The 

Everday 

24 MAY-15 SEPTEMBER 

Bath’s Holburne Museum is drenched in colour 

this summer as 40 works by Post Impressionist, 

Edouard Vuillard are on show. These intimate 

scenes including his mother pinning her bun, two 

women chatting and a game of shuttlecock show 

how he turns the simplest activity into the most 

emotionally charged scene. 

holburne.org 

© Victoria && Albert Museum, London 

Natalia Goncharova's set design for the final scene of The Firebird Tseng Kwong Chi, Keith Haring in subway car, (New York) Edouard Vuillard's The Game of Shuttlecock 


John Ruskin, Dawn, Coniston, 1873, Watercolour over pencil, acquired with the support 

of a V&A Purchase Grant and the Friends of Abbot Hall Art Gallery, Kendal, Cumbria. 

Ruskin, Turner And The Storm Cloud 

12 JULY-05 OCTOBER 

J.M.W. Turner’s stormy landscapes arrive at 

Kendal’s 18th century Abbot Hall Art Gallery 

in the Lake District, revealing a romantic view 

of British hotspots from the Kent Medway to 

Lancaster Sands. Alongside lesser known work 

of Victorian art critic, John Ruskin, on the 200th 

anniversary of his birth. The exhibition offers a 

fresh take on Turner’s iconic works. 

abbothall.org.uk 

John Akomfrah 

06 JULY-27 OCTOBER 

The films of award winning British 

artist John Akomfrah take centre 

stage at the Baltic Centre for 

Contemporary Art in Gateshead. 

The immersive multi-channel 

installations, celebrating black 

identity, includes his deep dive into 

the New Orleans jazz scene as well 

as his poetic interpretation of a 16th 

century Albrecht Dürer painting. 

baltic.art 

John Akomfrah, Peripeteia, 2012 

Single channel HD colour video, 

5.1 sound, 17 minutes 28 seconds 

Courtesy of Smoking Dogs Films 

and Lisson Gallery 


A Tea Journey: From The Mountains 

To The Table 


Afternoon tea is still chic – whether at The Ritz 

or The Berkeley. Now Compton Verney is 

exploring the cultural significance of this popular 

drink with an ambitious exhibition – from 7th to 

10th century Tang dynasty tea vessels, a 2010 

bamboo and paper Japanese tea house by 

Kazuhiro Yajima, to a model clipper and samples. 

comptonverney.org.uk 

After the Taking 

of Tea, 2019 © 

Charlotte Hodes, 

Photographer 

Stephen Heaton 

Phoebe 

Cummings 

Source (clay) 

Bornholm 

Kunstmuseum, 

Denmark 2018 

S H O P P I N G 

WHERE WE'RE SPENDING 

BRITISH 

TRAVEL 

JOURNAL 

Loves... 

Sheila Fleet Jewellery 

Head to Princes Square, 

Glasgow's award-winning retail 

destination, for Sheila Fleet’s 

brand new store, filled with her 

stylish unique collections, inspired 

by the beautiful islands of Orkney. 

sheilafleet.com 

Queen Victoria’s Palace 


Queen Victoria has barely disappeared from our 

TV screens. Now Buckingham Palace’s summer 

exhibition reveals how the young monarch 

turned an unloved residence into today’s royal 

headquarters. Amongst Royal Collection 

artefacts, tap your foot to a waltz danced at the 

Crimean Ball and marvel at the Ballroom’s original 

decoration. rct.uk 

WHERE WE'RE INVESTING 

The Lakes by YOO 

An idyllic estate in the Cotswolds, The Lakes by YOO, 

is for the first time offering the opportunity to invest in 

a state-of-the-art apartment, right on the water’s edge, 

alongside its 130+ houses. These new £1m-plus threebed 

apartments are to be fully-serviced by The Lakes 

concierge and owners and guests have access to the 

estate’s facilities. A unique investment opportunity – as 

here you can buy the apartment, enjoy it and rent it out. 

thelakesbyyoo.com 

GANT'S 70th Birthday Collection 

Inspired by the coastal living 

lifestyle, numerous shades of ocean 

blue dominate the color palette 

of preppy American sportswear 

brand GANT's 70th anniversary 

collection. gant.co.uk 

© Royal Collection Trust / © Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 

London Designer Outlet 

Combining the best of online with 

outlet shopping, Dropit is a new 

shopping app available at London 

Designer Outlet, offering a nifty 

store-to-door delivery service of all 

purchases made within its 50 stores 

– and with the option to deliver to 

homes, hotels or workplaces. 

londondesigneroutlet.com 


Wilderness Festival 

Royal Ascot 

© Third Light/ 

Getty Images 

F A I R S & F E S T I V A L S 

Henley Royal 

Regatta 

WHERE WE’RE PARTYING 

Royal Ascot 

18 JUNE-22 JUNE 

Dress to impress at Royal Ascot – whether you 

are invited to the Royal Enclosure or closer to the 

horseracing action in the Queen Anne Enclosure. 

Invest in new tails at New & Lingwood or a new 

Stephen Jones hat. Be there at 2pm sharp to see 

the royals on parade. 

ascot.co.uk 

Glastonbury Festival 


The Killers, The Cure, Stormzy and even Kylie 

are the headline acts at this year’s Glastonbury 

Festival at Worthy Farm in Somerset. Whilst 

the Pyramid Stage is where to hear the big guns, 

experiment with up and coming music at the 

John Peel Stage or underground beats at Babylon 

Uprising. 

glastonburyfestivals.co.uk 

Henley Royal Regatta 

03 JULY-07 JULY 

What better way to spend a hot summer’s day 

than by the banks of the River Thames in Henley 

– watching the world and rowers go by with a 

glass of fizz? Don your best blazer or tea dress for 

the members’ only Stewards’ Enclosure or rock a 

rowing look elsewhere. 

hrr.co.uk 

Masterpiece London Art Fair 

27 JUNE-03 JULY 

Nestling in the Royal Hospital Chelsea grounds 

lies this top notch eclectic art and design fair. 

Look for Banksy’s spray paint Kissing Coppers 

at the Geoffrey Diner Gallery and Lyndsey 

Ingram’s must see prints by Grayson Perry, the 

Chapman Brothers and others. Whilst Hong 

Kong jeweller, Cindy Chao will unveil her 2019 

one-of-a-kind butterfly. 

masterpiecefair.com 

Edinburgh International Film Festival 


Edinburgh might be colder than Cannes, but the 

screenings at the city’s international film festival are 

equally hot. Billy Elliott and The Hurt Locker have 

been among them. Modern and cult Spanish films 

are this year’s focus - kicking off with Tommy Smith 

and the Scottish National Jazz Orchestra’s take on 

Miles Davis’s Sketches of Spain. 

edfilmfest.org.uk 

Wilderness Festival 

01 AUGUST-04 AUGUST 

This Oxfordshire festival is one of the swankiest. 

Amongst sets by Tom Odell, the reformed 

Bombay Bicycle Club, there’s art, dance and 

more. Activities range from horse-riding to 

axe throwing. Whilst for ultimate zen, try 

Paddleboard yoga or the spa. Posh food is on 

offer too by top chefs. 

wildernessfestival.com 


WHAT WE’RE WATCHING 

C U L T U R A L H I G H L I G H T S 

Yesterday 

28 JUNE 

The Beatles and their music are the subject of 

this summer’s Brit flick, Yesterday - as a struggling 

musician (newcomer, Himesh Patel) takes credit 

for their songs when he realises that no one else 

has heard of them. Spot Liverpool’s Penny Lane 

as one of the many British locations. 

yesterdaymovie.com 

WHAT WE’RE LISTENING TO 

The 1975 

It’s been a big year for Manchester quartet, 

The 1975 - scooping top two BRIT awards for 

British group and British album. Now we’re 

eagerly waiting for their latest album, Notes 

on a Conditional Form, to drop this summer. 

Meanwhile, head to Glasgow, Leeds and 

Reading in August to listen to them live. 

the1975.com 

© Universal Pictures 

WHAT WE'RE DISCOVERING 

Tendril Is The Night 

27 JUNE-07 JULY 

Glimpse into Chelsea’s cultural history with a visit to the 

open studio home of sculptor turned potter, Kate Braine 

at 20 Cheyne Row.Discover her colourful ceramics in the 

Edwardian drawing room and beyond and her garden 

kiln. With former homes of Mick Jagger and Marianne 

Faithfull, Whistler and others nearby - it’s London’s 

hidden cultural enclave. 

#KateBrainePots 

WHAT WE'RE READING 

Take The Slow 

Road: England & 

Wales 

Plan new ways to see England 

and Wales with this lively book 

on camper van and motorhome 

trips by Martin Dorey published 

by Conway. Discover 28 routes 

and their hidden highlights like the 

waterfalls en route from Harrogate 

to Bolton Abbey or Blakeney 

Point’s seal colony in North 

Norfolk. Helpful tips include where 

to eat, stay and the number of days 

needed to explore. 

bloomsbury.com 

Rusty Orange Scorched Lava Alien Flowers 


10 

EXPERIENCES 

of the best 

UNIQUE 

YOU MUST TRY 

After Dark! 

Not all of the UK goes 

to sleep after dark, and 

you don’t have to either. 

The Museum of London 

recently announced 

it will open overnight 

from 2023 but, until 

then, here’s a selection 

of adventures and 

experiences to try when 

the sun goes down: 

Words | Max Wooldridge 

S T A R G A Z I N G I N S C O T L A N D 

1Head to Glenapp Castle to see clear night skies in their amazing 

glory. Thanks to minimal pollution, Galloway Forest Park in 

Ayrshire is home to some of Europe’s darkest skies. Join Glenapp’s 

Stargazing Experience for hot chocolate, night binoculars and an 

expert dark sky ranger who will explain everything on view: the 

myriad of stars, the Milky Way, maybe even the Northern Lights. 

glenappcastle.com 


EXPERIENCES 

D U N W I C H D Y N A M O 

2 

On 13/14 July, join hundreds of cycle 

enthusiasts – on road bikes, tandems and 

recumbents - for the Dunwich Dynamo, an annual 

200km overnight ride from Hackney, in East 

London, to the lost medieval city of Dunwich on 

the Suffolk coast. 

southwarkcyclists.org.uk 

J E R S E Y M O O N W A L K S 

3 

At low tide, as the English Channel recedes, Jersey doubles in size to 116 square miles. 

Discover underwater secrets on a fascinating night walk to Seymour Tower, a small fort 

on an islet a mile offshore. See bioluminescent creatures and marine life across the exposed 

rocky seabed by the light of a full moon. They are known as “moonwalks” after the terrain’s 

resemblance to a lunar landscape. jerseywalkadventures.co.uk 

© VisitScotland/ Paul Tomkins; National Trust Images / James Millar 

N I G H T R U N N I N G - V A R I O U S L O C A T I O N S 

4Fancy a moonlit jog through ancient woodlands or Georgian landscaped gardens? Each 

autumn and winter, The National Trust hosts a programme of after-dark trail runs at a number 

of its properties across the UK. 

nationaltrust.org.uk 

L U M I E R E F E S T I V A L 

5 

See local and global artists light up buildings 

and public spaces in London, Durham 

and other UK cities with light installations and 

illuminations and large-scale projections. The UK’s 

largest light festival, now in its 10th year, runs from 

14-17 November 2019. 

lumiere-festival.com 


L O N D O N ’ S N I G H T 

F O O D M A R K E T S 

W I L D L I F E S P O T T I N G I N C A R M A R T H E N S H I R E 

6 

Spot nocturnal animals like otters, beavers and badgers in their natural habitat in a 300-acre 

farm in Carmarthenshire. You’ll also be helping a not-for-profit wildlife company reintroduce 

wild beavers in Wales. bevistrust.comk 

N I G H T W A L K S A L O N G T H E 

W A L L S O F L I N C O L N C A S T L E 

7 

Each month, between 

May and November, 

Lincoln Castle runs themed 

evening tours of William the 

Conqueror’s fine fortress. 

Visit the castle’s Victorian 

prison, see a medieval 

cooking demonstration, 

a falconry masterclass, 

or take a wall walk for 

twilight views of the city. 

lincolncastle.com 

8 

London’s street food scene has enjoyed 

nothing short of a revolution in recent 

years, with many derelict and disused spaces 

being transformed into night food markets. Try 

Shoreditch’s Dinerama, Canary Wharf’s Giant Robot 

and Lewisham's Model Market for mouth-watering 

global cuisine. streetfeast.com 

R O P E - S W I N G I N G 

I N D A R K N E S S 

9 

Perfect your Tarzan call and take a leap in the 

dark in North Yorkshire’s Dalby Forest. Go 

Ape’s Adventures After Hours programme features 

twilight zip-wires and the chance to get to grips with 

the high ropes after dark. goape.co.uk 

N I G H T K A Y A K I N G I N N O R F O L K 

Experience some of the best night skies in 

10 the UK on a full moon kayak adventure in 

the heart of the Norfolk Broads. See the moon and 

the stars reflected in the tranquil waters aboard an 

easy-to-paddle two-seater kayak. The two-and-ahalf 

hour adventure takes place on Hickling Broad 

and the surrounding narrow reed bed backwaters. 

norfolkoutdooradventures.co.uk 


Discover hidden 

treasures and 

inspirational events 

BRITAIN’S GREATEST PALACE 

Birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill 

blenheimpalace.com 

Buy one day, get 

12 months free* 

NINE CENTURIES 

IN THE MAKING 

Discover a year of spectacular 

events and new attractions to 

mark our historic milestone. 

CELEBRATING 900 YEARS 

leeds-castle.com 

29120 LC Generic 191x120mm.indd 1 02/05/2019 11:50

WIN 

A NIGHT OF LUXURY 

Staying aboard Fingal in Edinburgh 

Enter our competition to win an indulgent five-star break for two, 

with a truly Royal award-winning experience, in the Port of Leith 

THE LUCKY WINNER, and their guest, will be welcomed 

aboard Fingal, a luxury floating hotel permanently 

berthed on Edinburgh’s vibrant waterfront, just a short 

stroll to the shops, restaurants and galleries. Fingal 

started life as a lighthouse tender, helping maintain lighthouses 

and transporting their keepers, equipment and supplies to some 

of the most treacherous locations in Scotland. Now she has been 

transformed into an exquisite 23 cabin boutique hotel, with decks 

for stargazing and Champagne, by the award winning team at 

The Royal Yacht Britannia. This is where time slows to a gentle 

deck stroll, where you can experience the unhurried luxury of life 

on board ship and every contour and curve, every angle and tilt 


▶ 

A Royal Day Out 

including tickets to 

THE ROYAL YACHT 

BRITANNIA 

WITH A DELICIOUS CHAMPAGNE CREAM TEA! 

BRITISH 

TRAVEL 

JOURNAL 

Competition! 

of Fingal is certain to offer a totally unique 

experience, far removed from your everyday world. 

Just a short walk from the hotel, the lucky duo 

will be further rewarded with a magnificent 

‘Royal Day Out’, at Scotland’s Best Visitor 

Attraction – The Royal Yacht Britannia, where 

they will enjoy stunning panoramic waterfront 

views, and a delicious Champagne Cream Tea 

in the Royal Deck Tea Room. Britannia was 

launched from the John Brown & Company 

shipyard in Clydebank, Scotland, on 16 April, 

1953. For over 44 years the Royal Yacht served 

the Royal Family, travelling more than a million 

nautical miles to become one of the most famous 

ships in the world. To Her Majesty The Queen, 

Britannia provided the perfect Royal residence 

for glittering state visits, official receptions, 

Royal honeymoons and relaxing family holidays. 

For Great Britain, she was a majestic symbol of 

the Commonwealth and a proud ambassador, 

generating billions of pounds in trade deals. 

For the Royal Family and the 220 dedicated 

crew of Royal Yachtsmen, she was home. Step 

aboard this famous ship and follow in the 

footsteps of Royalty. Explore Britannia’s five 

decks with the free audio guide, available in 30 

languages, as well as a children’s tour and British 

Sign Language tablet. See the elegant State 

Apartments and the gleaming Engine Room. 

See where Prince William and Prince Harry spent 

their summer holidays. Discover where kings and 

queens, world leaders and celebrities were wined 

and dined; from Frank Sinatra and Liz Taylor to 

Nelson Mandela and Sir Winston Churchill. 

In the Royal Deck Tea Room you can enjoy freshly 

prepared, homemade food, stunning views and 

a warm welcome. Treat yourself with speciality 

teas, coffees and lunch where the Royal Family 

previously would have enjoyed drinks receptions, 

sumptuous buffets, or played deck games. u 

H O W T O E N T E R 

ON OUR WEBSITE 

britishtraveljournal.com 

In addition to an overnight stay on 

board Fingal, tickets to visit The Royal 

Yacht Britannia, and a delicious 

afternoon tea, the lucky winner will 

also be sent a complimentary annual 

subscription to British Travel Journal with 

a Travel Trio gift set from Noble Isle. 

LAST ENTRIES 31 AUGUST 2019 


Alderney’s Stunning Backdrop 

Alderney is bursting with flavour. From local 

produce and rich creamy milk to seafood straight 

from the islands clear waters, all of which is 

stocked across the island’s shops and can be 

enjoyed in our delightful cafes and restaurants. 

Fresh Crab and Lobster 

visitalderney.com 

1-12 JULY

VICTUALS 

W H A T ' S N E W 

Restaurants | Food | Drink | Hotels 

SCOTLAND’S FIRST VODKA 

DISTILLERY EXPERIENCE 

Located 20 miles north of Dundee, Ogilvy 

Vodka – Scotland’s first potato vodka 

distillery – has opened the doors of its new 

£150K visitor centre. ogilvyspirits.com 

SCALLOPS, SUNSHINE AND SPARKLING WINE! 

Nyetimber Dorset Seafood Festival, one of the UK’s top seafood festivals, is set to take place 

over the weekend of 13-14 July, along Weymouth’s historic and picturesque harbour. 

The award-winning event, now in its 12th year, is free to attend and offers over 100 stalls of 

seafood, chef demos, children’s activities and delicious English sparkling wine. Drawing crowds 

of over 50,000 people, it is home to the top names in seafood producers, chefs, and 

fishermen from Dorset and across the country. dorsetseafood.co.uk 

FINE ENGLISH FIZZ 

Digby Fine English has recently opened their 

elegant new tasting room and cellar door in 

the beautiful town of Arundel, West Sussex. 

digby-fine-english.com 

N E W 

THE FLOATING SPA 

Revitalise with this unique spa experience, 

moored on the banks of the Monkey Island 

Estate - a private island with 30 exquisite 

guest rooms - now open in Bray-on-Thames. 

monkeyislandestate.co.uk 

MANDARIN ORIENTAL 

Following a multi-million pound restoration, 

Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, London has 

now re-opened, and is honouring the hotel’s 

illustrious 117-year history with a series of events. 

mandarinoriental.com 

We love this new cookbook priced £18, from 

mezepublishing.co.uk and summery bottle of 

2019 Babylonstoren Mourvèdre Rosé, priced 

£14.90, from babylonstoren.com 


I N T E R V I E W W I T H 

NATHAN 

OUTLAW 

Sea to Shore 

An esteemed culinary career ignited by the sea, Michelin 

star wizard Nathan Outlaw takes food columnist Chantal 

Borciani on a gourmand’s tour of the Cornish coastline! 

AMASTER OF SEAFOOD and the 

seasonal, Nathan Outlaw has 

wowed food critics, trained under 

the tutelage of top chefs, earned 

his Michelin stars and stripes and is now 

synonymous with the finest Cornish dining. 

Widely regarded as Cornwall’s greatest 

chef in residence, Nathan’s eponymous Port 

Isaac fish restaurant holds two Michelin stars 

and has also been crowned the UK’s top 

restaurant in the 2019 Food & Drink Guide – 

for the second year running. Not bad for a boy 

who grew up hundreds of miles away in Kent. 

The son of a chef, aged eight Nathan 

was buttering toast during breakfast service 

in his dad’s kitchen. He worked in kitchens 

on evenings and weekends and his first job 

out of Thanet’s catering college was at the 

Intercontinental, followed by stints with 

renowned chefs including Gary Rhodes and 

Eric Chavot. 

Passionate about seafood, Nathan soon 

landed on Rick Stein’s doorstep in Padstow. 

“It was 1996, and at the time there were only 

really a handful of excellent fish restaurants 

and Rick’s Seafood Restaurant was the place. 

I just knew I had to do it. I told myself, if you're 

going to work somewhere, work in the best 

place in the world for seafood’, and that was 

Rick's,” Nathan says. “It was a brilliant time 

to be working there. It was manically busy but 

good fun.” 

Today, Nathan owns his two Michelin star 

Restaurant Nathan Outlaw near Port Isaac 

and Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen, located literally 

metres down the road, which boasts another 

coveted star. He usually spends a couple of 

days a week in London, where he is slated to 

open a new restaurant at The Goring hotel, 

where Kate Middleton famously spent the 

night before her wedding to Prince William. 

“I'd be lying if I said I was ever not ready to 

come back to Cornwall after a couple of days 

in London. I mean, just look at it.” Nathan is 

sitting by the kitchen pass in Port Isaac, and 

gestures to the window where barrelling surf 

races towards the Cornish shore and a winter’s 

sunset floods the sky with crimson and mauve 

spindles. 

“I'd always had my eye on this building,” 


he says of the Restaurant Nathan Outlaw 

property, which overlooks the charming and 

tiny bay of Port Gaverne. “I'll never leave 

this place. And that's the first time I've ever 

felt like that.” 

Positively effervescent when it comes to 

Cornish produce, Nathan eschews trends 

and continues to write his set tasting menu 

at Restaurant Nathan Outlaw everyday 

depending on the catch that comes in. 

For Nathan, who has made his home 

in Cornwall, West Country traditions and 

its bewitching landscape are all part of the 

county’s rich allure. 

“If you arrive on a Friday evening, head 

to the pub. I like the St Kew Inn – it’s a real 

Cornish hostelry that dates back to the 15th 

century. You might be lucky and hear some 

shanty songs being sung there. 

“There are so many beautiful beaches 

both on the north and south shores but 

I tend to visit Trevone most. I like it there 

because there are two beaches; one 

sandy and one rocky so you get the 

best of both worlds. I also like the little 

beach just below my restaurant at Port 

Gaverne. It’s tiny, but when the tide is 

low you can explore all the rock pools 

with the kids. I love walking along the 

Camel Trail and the walk from Port 

Isaac along to Port Quinn has amazing 

views and will really blow away the 

cobwebs." 

A foodie through and through, 

Nathan has recommendations for every 

day of the week. “For a Saturday lunch 

head to somewhere like Appletons at 

Trevibban Mill vineyard and winery 

where you can enjoy relaxed food food 

in a beautiful setting. 

The Lost Gardens of Heligan are 

spectacular for a Saturday afternoon 

stroll or the Eden Project has loads of 

activities – you can zip line across the 

entire place!” 

If you’re a keen home cook, Nathan 

recommends heading to the Port 

Isaac Seafood School down by the à 



With unmissable sights including nearby Marazion’s tidal 

island and ancient castle of St Michael’s Mount, plus the 

outlying microclimatic Isles of Scilly just a ferry hop away, 

Penzance has never been short of reasons to visit. 

harbour where George Cleave and 

his team will show you the day’s catch 

and give advice on how to prepare 

and cook it. 

“On Saturday night, head to 

one of the really nice restaurants, 

my one's pretty good!” Nathan 

laughs. “And down the road at the 

Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen of course. Paul 

Ainsworth in Padstow is really good, 

a lovely restaurant right in the centre 

of the harbour town. 

“There are some superb restaurants 

if you want to head further afield, too. 

I recently visited The Driftwood on the 

Roseland peninsula – Chris Eden is 

head chef there and is the only Michelin 

star Cornish chef ever so that’s a bit 

special.” 

“Down in the Penzance area, The 

Shore is run by Bruce Rennie and 

impressively he does it all himself. It’s 

just him in the kitchen and he cooks 

fantastic seafood. Ben's Cornish 

Kitchen is another Penzance gem, 

where diners can enjoy Cornish food 

cooked to a very high standard.” 

With unmissable sights including 

nearby Marazion’s tidal island and 

ancient castle of St Michael’s Mount, 

the Jubilee Pool, an Art Deco lido 

on Penzance's Promenade, plus the 

outlying microclimatic Isles of Scilly 

© VisitBritain/ Jason Hawkes 

just a ferry hop away, Penzance has 

never been short of reasons to visit, but 

thanks to an influx of inventive chefs, its 

food scene is now really coming of age. 

Another food haven not to miss is the 

town’s first smokehouse at The Cornish 

Barn where hip cocktails are served 

alongside home-smoked Cornish meat 

and fish. And with local vineyards, 

breweries, bountiful fish markets and 

farms across both shores, it’s little 

surprise Cornwall is a magnet for 

gourmands and top chefs alike. Round 

off your visit trying local ales in the 

seafaring inns that dot both magical 

coasts, Nathan says, and you’ll soon 

see why this eminent chef would never 

live anywhere else. à 


WHERE TO STAY: 

North Cornwall: The Scarlet 

For the ultimate Cornish beach escape, this 

eco hotel set on the spectacular north coast 

is simply unbeatable and is an easy drive 

from Padstow and Port Isaac. With a reedfringed 

outdoor pool, two clifftop hot tubs, 

an award-winning spa and a sea-view sauna, 

The Scarlet offers five-star relaxation rooted 

in the heart and soul of its Cornish location. 

Local art adorns the walls, the whole hotel 

smells incredible thanks to the Cornish Oula 

toiletires and around every corner guests 

are greeted with soul-soothing views of 

the sea. The adult-only retreat blends into 

the hillside overlooking the creamy surf of 

Mawgan Porth and the marigold beach lies 

just footsteps through the wild grass meadow 

garden. Settle into a sea-view couples pod, 

enjoy fine dining with one of the best sunsets 

in Cornwall and then doze off to the sound 

of waves hitting the shore. The South West 

Coast Path winds right along the front of the 

hotel, ideal for hikes across to the glorious 

expanses of Watergate Bay. A spellbinding 

coastal retreat. 

scarlethotel.co.uk 


Marazion: Godolphin Arms 

Experience the time and tides of Cornwall 

like never before; guests can watch the 

shifting sands around Mounts Bay as the 

tide sweeps across the causeway eventually 

lapping at the hotel brickwork. Fall to sleep 

to the sound of the sea and wake to the 

ever-changing vistas and sunrise above 

St Michael’s Mount. For beach walks, 

sensational sunsets and extraordinary 

access to St Michael’s Mount, this 

commanding position is second to none. 

For the best views in the house, book the 

remarkably well priced family apartment 

in Room 11, where sea views abound and a 

picture window captures the endless beauty 

of Mounts Bay and the iconic castle. 

godolphinarms.co.uk 

Penzance: Chapel House 

One of the most exquisitely designed 

boutique hotels in Cornwall, Chapel House 

occupies a captivating Georgian townhouse 

in the old quarter. Dating back to 1790, 

with former inhabitants including Admiral 

Samuel Hood Linzee of HMS Temeraire, the 

guesthouse has been painstakingly restored 

and today mixes the old with contemporary 

flashes of genius. A baby grand sits 

alongside abstract art, beamed bedrooms 

boast sumptuous open-plan polished 

concrete bathrooms, and crackling in-room 

log burners contrast with vibrant Ercol 

furniture – staying here is an adventure. 

Flooded with natural light, the property’s 

plethora of picture windows make the most 

of the jaw-dropping sea views. 

The stylish top loft bedroom is a 

particular favourite and features an en 

suite bathroom glass ceiling that retracts so 

guests can bathe under the stars with the 

view of the chapel spires. The graceful décor 

extends to two apartments that adjoin the 

main house, which provide guests with even 

more privacy and living space. Apartment 

1 has no less than three balconies and 

panoramic views of Penzance harbour. An 

exceptional find, with Bruce Rennie’s The 

Shore just footsteps away. 

chapelhousepz.co.uk 

TASTE OF CORNWALL 

ABOVE: RESTAURANT NATHAN 

OUTLAW 

Raw Mackerel, roast onion, parsnip, chilli oil 

ABOVE: DRIFTWOOD 

40 Day Old Fillet of Ruby Red Beef 

Cooked Over Coals, Smoked Bone Marrow, 

Garlic & Spinach followed by Lemon Verbena, 

Shortbread, White Chocolate & Macadamia Nut 

BELOW: AINSWORTH 

Paul Ainsworth at No. 6, 

Padstow Trifle 

Pictured opposite page: The Scarlet. Picture above in a clockwise direction from top 

left, Chapel House; Bottom left, Godolphin Arms. 


TOP SEEDS 

Behind-the-Scenes 

Welcome to Wimbledon – one of the world’s 

most prestigious British sporting spectacles 

Words | Chantal Borciani 

36 BritishTravelJournal.com 

The ball boys and girls line up for their official photocall outside the clubhouse AELTC/Joel Marklund

T R A V E L I N S P I R A T I O N 


EVERY SUMMER, MORE than 470,000 tennis 

fans descend on London SW19’s hallowed turf 

for the annual Wimbledon Championships. 

The iconic British tennis event is broadcast to 

millions and is rooted in quintessential tradition and 

pageantry. Dating back to the 1870s when the inaugural 

tournament was held in front of a crowd of 200 

spectators, today the annual sporting spectacle is held at 

Wimbledon’s All England Lawn Tennis Club (AELTC) and 

attracts Hollywood stars and royalty alike, with Her Royal 

Highness the Duchess of Cambridge a passionate patron 

of the AELTC. 

In the run up to the tournament, the All England Club 

is, not surprisingly, a hive of activity. The courts, where 

all eyes will soon be fixed, are the responsibility of the 

fastidious grounds team, headed up by Neil Stubley. As 

head groundsman, it is Neil’s responsibility to ensure the 

40 courts are in perfect condition when the gates open. 

“There’s definitely pressure. It’s arguably one of the 

top three sporting events in the world,” Neil explains as 

he walks alongside the immaculately manicured edge 

of Centre Court. Neil began working at the All England 

Club on a work placement in 1995 and has risen through 

the ranks. He has a rather modest team of 15 full-time 

groundsmen, which doubles in size during the summer 

“With 

this July’s 

tournament 

on the 

horizon, 

the grounds 

staff will 

work day 

and night to 

ensure every 

painstaking 

detail is 

perfect” 

Pictured Left: 

The Venus 

Rosewater 

Dish and The 

Gentlemen's 

Singles Trophy 

on Centre Court. 

Selling 

strawberries at 

the kiosk on St 

Mary's Walk. 

Images AELTC/Thomas Lovelock/ Chris Raphael/ Joe Toth/Ben Queenborough 

and is “responsible for everything that grows”. This 

includes the 50,000 plants that adorn the club, the 

iconic Boston Ivy which clads the famous clubhouse, and 

every millimetre of the 100 per cent rye grass that is laid 

on each court. 

“We measure the courts every day for hardness, 

moisture, chlorophyll content and so on. The grass is 

cut to 8mm for The Championships and each court 

has a tailored irrigation system run from a centralised 

computer.” 

The aim, Neil says, is for absolute consistency. “In 

theory, anyone like Roger [Federer] or Andy [Murray] 

should be able to go onto any of the match courts or 

practice courts two hours before heading on to Centre 

Court or No. 1 Court and they should all play exactly 

the same”. 

“These days tennis players don’t leave anything 

to chance. During the Championships, we’ll get 

players like Djokovic asking what yesterday’s 

weather might have done to the court, or what time 

we cut the courts that day and if it was the same 

time as yesterday because they’re always looking for 

that extra one per cent,” Neil explains. 

Since 1922 there have only been seven 

tournaments without rain interruptions recorded and in 

recent years, Neil and his team have dealt with heatwaves, 

hail and everything in between. 

“In 2017, two heat-waves struck London just before 

The Championships opened. We were getting 40c 

temperatures on the playing surface. So two weeks 

before the tournament we were trying to manage grass 

that pretty much shuts down above 28c.” 

While Neil and his team tend to the courts, a rather 

unusual member of the Wimbledon grounds team takes 

to the skies. Rufus the Harris Hawk has been working 

at Wimbledon since 2007, and has his own AELTC 

security pass with his job title detailed officially as ‘Bird 

Scarer’. Rufus usually starts flying around 5am during 

The Championships and patrols the courts until 9am to 

ensure that the iconic ivy-green seats remain unsullied for 

spectators. 

Rufus’s handler Imogen Davis explains: “We visit most 

weeks of the year as a pigeon deterrent. Rufus even has a 

purple and green coloured hood to wear at Wimbledon 

and his own social media accounts.” 

With the courts maintained to exacting standards and 

even the resident hawk in uniform, it goes without saying 

that the same degree of precision is applied to every other 

facet of the tournament. 

Around 54,250 balls are used during The 

Championships every year with each ball kept at 68°F 

before use; the stringing team work night and day 

and string over 2,000 rackets, equal to over 40 miles 

Pictured 

Below: 

Ground 

Staff mow 

and stripe 

Court 18. 


Pictured Above: 

Garbine Muguruza 

(ESP) in action against 

Venus Williams (USA) 

in the Ladiesí Singles 

Final on Centre Court 

2017 Championships at 

Wimbledon. 

of string; and the traditional strawberries and cream 

devoured by so many visitors – 166,055 portions during 

2017’s Championships to be exact – are usually Grade 1 

English strawberries from the ‘The Garden of England’, 

Kent. The strawberries are picked daily at 4am, collected 

from the packing plant at 9am and are delivered to the 

Club by 11am for inspection and hulling, for guests to 

enjoy on the same day. 

New for 2019 will be the retractable roof on No.1 

Court – the completion of a three-year build, which also 

includes refurbished hospitality suites; two more rows of 

approximately 900 seats; the creation of a two-level public 

plaza named the Walled Garden; and a larger big screen 

for the famously atmospheric outdoor viewing hill, which in 

recent years has coined the moniker of Murray Mound. 

As Wimbledon has grown, so too has its influence 

and impact on the local community. The Wimbledon 

Foundation, the charity of the AELTC, has awarded 

over £1.75 million to local projects since the Foundation 

began in 2013 and plays a pivotal role in opening 

up the complex to schools and charities. After each 

Championship, the Foundation also helps redistribute 

unclaimed lost property and resources. “In 2018 we 

donated 2,500 plants to local charities, sent camping 

equipment left behind to the YMCA Wimbledon, 

donated IT equipment to local charities, unclaimed 

spectacles to Vision Aid Overseas, and donated 

unwanted clothing items to local night shelters and the 

Red Cross Refugee Centre,” explains Helen Parker, head 

of Wimbledon Foundation. 

The Championships’ impact both at grass roots level 

and on the world stage continues at a pace but if you 

don’t have a golden ticket to the on-court action for this 

year fear not as The Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum 

and tours of the All England Club are open year round 

COURT ACTION 

290 MILLION 

TENNIS BALLS 

could fit into Centre Court with the roof closed 

39,000 

SPECTATORS 

are allowed in the grounds at any one time 

303,277 

GLASSES OF PIMM’S 

are on average consumed 

21,917 

BOTTLES OF CHAMPAGNE 

are on average popped! 

129MPH 

FASTEST ALL 

TIME SERVE (LADIES) 

Venus Williams (2008) 

76,603 

ICE CREAMS 

are on average enjoyed 

307,277 

TEA AND COFFEE 

cups are served on average per tournament 

33,000KG 

STRAWBERRIES 

were consumed during the 2017 tournament 

and offer visitors a glimpse behind-the-scenes of this 

historic site, with access to Centre Court, the BBC TV 

studio, the members' balcony and the iconic players' 

entrance. 

With this July’s tournament on the horizon, the 

grounds staff will work day and night to ensure every 

painstaking detail is perfect. And the last job to do? 

Changing the scoreboards on Centre Court, which 

remain as they stood at the final ‘Game, set, match’ at 

the Ladies’ and Mens’ finals until the new action kicks 

off for this year’s Championships. u 

THE 2019 CHAMPIONSHIPS IS HELD 

MONDAY 1 JULY – SUNDAY 14 JULY 

WIMBLEDON.COM 


SUBSCRIBE TODAY 

and receive the ultimate getaway essential! 

Receive four issues of British Travel Journal, with free postage, 

plus a free luxury gift set from Noble Isle worth £20 - all for just £19! 



JOURNAL 




JOURNAL 


experiences 

after dark 

JERSEY MOONWALKS 

TO STAR-GAZING 

IN AYRSHIRE! 

SPRING 2019 | ISSUE 01 


Luxury 

free gift 

WORTH 

£20! 

Coastal Special WIN 

sea to shore 

GOURMAND’S TOUR OF CORNWALL 

WITH NATHAN OUTLAW 

IN THE STARS 

GASTRONOMIC DELIGHTS AND A 

CONSTELLATION OF MICHELIN STARS 

JUST WAITING TO BE EXPLORED 

a luxury 

short break 

staying on 

a floating 

hotel! 

DREAM ESCAPE 

DISCOVER THE REMARKABLE ISLANDS 

AND BREATHTAKING LANDSCAPES 

OF ORKNEY AND THE OUTER HEBRIDES 

£5.00 

# 

weekend adventure 

48 HOURS AT CORNWALL'S MOST FAMOUS SURF 

DESTINATION, FISTRAL BEACH IN NEWQUAY 

blue sky thinking 

DISCOVER WORLD-CLASS OPEN AIR THEATRE 

PRODUCTIONS ON CLIFF TOPS TO ABBEY RUINS 

EVENTS ■ IDYLLIC DESTINATIONS ■ MICHELIN STAR RESTAURANTS ■ LUXURY HOTELS ■ NEW EXPERIENCES 

£5.00 


Subscribe to British Travel Journal today and receive the ultimate getaway essential worth £20! 

Return the form below or visit britishtraveljournal.com/subscribe 

YES PLEASE! I WOULD LIKE TO SUBSCRIBE AND CLAIM MY FREE GIFT 

START WITH CURRENT ISSUE SUMMER 2019 NEXT ISSUE AUTUMN 2019 

NAME: 

ADDRESS: 

POST CODE: 

EMAIL: 

1 YEAR £19 2 YEARS £35 POSTAGE OUTSIDE THE UK 1 YEAR £45 2 YEARS £75 

VISA VISA DEBIT MASTERCARD AMERICAN EXPRESS CHEQUE (payee Contista Media Ltd) 

CARD NUMBER: 

VALID FROM: EXPIRY DATE: ISSUE NUMBER: (Amex) 

SIGNATURE: 

D D M M Y Y 

Contista Media is compliant with GDPR (General Data Protection Regulations) Your subscriptions data is 

only used for the purpose of processing your subscription. Your email address will only be used in order to 

contact you regarding renewing your subscription. We will not pass your details on to third party companies. 

CSV: 

* Ts & Cs: Limited time only, while stocks last. Gift is for UK subscriptions only. 

40 Return BritishTravelJournal.com 

to: Contista Media Ltd, British Travel Journal, Mitchell House, Brook Avenue, Warsash, Hampshire, SO31 9HP

EXCLUSIVE HOSPITALITY PARTNER TO THE CHAMPIONSHIPS, WIMBLEDON 

THE CHAMPIONSHIPS, WIMBLEDON 

MONDAY 1 JULY - SUNDAY 14 JULY 

EXPERIENCE THE NEW NO.1 COURT ROOF 

YOU’RE NOW GUARANTEED TO SEE TENNIS, 

WHATEVER THE WEATHER 

Bespoke official hospitality packages available. 

All include Centre Court or No.1. Court seats. 

Visit www.keithprowse.co.uk/BTJ 

or call +44 (0)208 003 4539

In search of 

SCOTCH 

WHISKY 

Over four million visitors a year beat a path to Scotland's 

distilleries for an authentic taste of the country 

Words | Adrian Mourby 

THERE ARE MANY REASONS to visit Scotland, 

but its whisky industry is by far one of the best. 

Unlike many major manufacturing sites, the 

average Scottish distillery is almost always located 

in the countryside. Because they draw their water from the 

purest springs and streams, whisky-makers tend to work in 

clean, unsullied rural locations. And most of these tend to be 

picturesque. 

Often you’ll find the famous drink being distilled inside 

idiosyncratic old buildings that have evolved over time, many 

of them with distinctive pagoda-like wooden rooves. Step 

inside and you’ll invariably be met with a cocktail of highly 

distinctive smells: old wood, grain, yeast and spirit. You’re also 

likely to be met by an enthusiastic team who love sharing their 

commitment to Scotland’s uisge beatha (the Celtic words for 

water of life). 

The whisky industry is thriving today – with the result 

that the names of lots of tiny Scottish villages are famous all 

round the world – so it can be hard to believe that in the 1980s 

“Scotch” was verging on the unfashionable. 

A drink that had evolved over centuries had become the 

tipple for old men and many distilleries were on the brink of 

closure. The reasons for whisky’s subsequent recovery are many 

and complex. Clever marketing, astute management and 

increasing affluence in the east may have had something to do 

with it but the resurgence within a generation is extraordinary. 

Today whisky is not just one of Scotland’s major exports, but 

one of the reasons people from all over the world come to visit. 

Uisge beatha began in feudal times as a crofter’s spirit 

brewed and sold locally and used to provide a powerful 

kick-start to the day. Not diluted as it is today (to around 

40% alcohol) this original “water of life” probably actually 

shortened life expectancy. Invigoration or anaesthesia against 

the cold Scottish mornings was probably the main benefit of 

whisky in those early days. 

In the nineteenth century however the first enterprising 

Scots merchants began buying up raw local whiskies and 

blending them to create a predictable – and enjoyable – taste in 

every bottle. 

The rapid improvement in the quality of blended whiskies 

like Johnnie Walker, Famous Grouse and Dewar’s had the 

knock-on effect of encouraging individual distilleries to improve 

the quality of their own single (unblended) malts. 

These days, although there are still great blended whiskies 

out there, it is the single malts that sell for thousands of pounds 

at auction and it is the individual distilleries that attract 

pilgrims from all over the world who come just to pay homage 

to the home of their favourite dram. 

________________________________________________________ 

Just as French wines rely on the individual terroir where the 

grapes are produced, so Scots whisky is an embodiment of the 

landscape over which the water flows before going into each à 

© VisitScotland / Peter Dibdin 


BritishTravelJournal.com 43 

Visitors enjoy a guided tour of the Clydeside Distillery, Glasgow

Whisky is one of Scotland’s most 

valuable commodities, attracting 

visitors from all over the world, 

with one in five visitors making a 

trip to a whisky distillery during 

their stay - VisitScotland 

whisky. Single malts are also influenced by the local peat 

that may stoke the fires at the distillery. For this reason 

Scotland’s bleak islands, its green glens, its lowland 

pastures and rolling northern moors all contribute to the 

unique flavour of each and every whisky. 

The barrels in which ageing takes places also 

influence that flavour, No wonder no two whiskies ever 

taste the same. 

Nowadays six whisky producing regions are 

recognised in Scotland although they are hugely 

different in size. “Lowland” is an area scarce in distilleries 

between Edinburgh and Glasgow, conversely “Highland” 

is really four massive regions – North, East, West and 

Central – that are found to the north of Lowland. 

Then there is “Speyside”, a tiny area between the 

Grampian Mountains and the Moray Firth, which is 

as densely overpopulated by distilleries as Lowland is 

underpopulated. 

Meanwhile to the west – and only eleven miles from 

the coast of Northern Ireland – lies “Islay”, a single island 

that is home to eight major distilleries. Campbeltown – 

once the whisky capital of the world but which ironically 

almost closed up shop in the twentieth century – sits 

nearby on the mainland. 

Finally there is the region known as “The Islands” 

which comprises every other island distillery that isn’t on 

Islay itself. 

If you are confused then just to make matters more 

complicated the Scotch Whisky Association officially 

lumps all the islands – except Islay – into the Highland 

region. Conversely, many whisky experts subdivide the 

Highlands into four separate inner regions. There is no 

simple appellation system for Scottish Whisky. 

Because each region has its individual qualities 

the Scotch Whisky Experience in Edinburgh offers a 

very accessible 50-minute audio-visual crash course 

(with tastings) that explains whisky and its regional 

characteristics. 

But nothing beats the experience of visiting a distillery 

and having the magic explained to you in situ. All that 

polished, complex bespoke equipment inside can cause 

OBAN 

IN THE HIGHLANDS 

Founded in 1794 by two brothers, this 

distillery passed through many hands 

down the centuries and occasionally fell 

“silent”. Today Oban is one of Scotland’s 

smallest distilleries, producing a single 

malt typical of the West Highlands, drier 

and smokier than the light, sweet malts 

of other Highland regions. This old grey 

stone building sits near a busy quayside 

and looks rather forbidding from the 

outside, but there is a very friendly new 

visitor centre within. 

obanwhisky.com 

the mind to boggle. What do the grist mill, mash tun, 

washbacks and copper pot stills actually do? What is 

a spirit receiver and why is it kept locked? And why do 

all of these pieces of Heath-Robinson invention look so 

different? The byzantine machinery of each distillery is as 

individual as the taste of the whisky it produces. 

Finally, the great thing about a whisky tour is that it 

unleashes a terrible thirst and that is what the tasting 

room at the end of the visit is designed to sate. 

There are so many distilleries to enjoy in Scotland – far 

too many for the average visitor to ever reach – but here is 

our selection of just one from each region. à 

Where to stay 

The Airds Hotel is 

a small gourmet-dining 

country house 19 miles 

to the north of Oban on 

the shores of Loch Linhe. 

It was originally an inn 

for drovers bringing their 

cattle from the islands but 

is now one of the most 

comfortable hotels in the 

area, celebrated for its 

excellent food and for its 

tranquil views across to the 

Morvern Peninsula. 

airds-hotel.com 


GLENKINCHIE 

IN THE LOWLANDS 

There aren’t many distilleries around 

the Scottish capital but Glenkinchie, 

set in undulating farmland 15 miles 

to the southeast of Edinburgh is the 

nearest. 

Founded in 1825, the distillery 

went through uncertain times 

before being completely rebuilt 

in 1881. In 2013 it was awarded 

Scotland’s prize for Best Lowland 

Single Malt. This picturesque brick 

building is an easy-going place to 

visit and its whiskies have distinct 

grassy sweetness on the palate. 

malts.com 

Where to stay 

The Balmoral Hotel stands 

commandingly above Edinburgh’s 

Waverley Station and is famous for 

containing the room in which JK 

Rowling completed her last Harry 

Potter novel. It’s a slow drive out to 

Glenkinchie, but when you get back 

to Edinburgh make sure to spend an 

evening with one of the hotel’s kilted 

Whisky Ambassadors who will help 

you enjoy whisky as never before. 

roccofortehotels.com 

LAGAVULIN 

ISLE OF ISLAY 

Dating from 1816 and housed in a 

sequence of white-washed buildings 

with a distinctive twin-towered roof, 

Lagavulin has a long-running rivalry 

with the nearby Laphroaig distillery. 

Although the two distilleries are only 

a mile apart, the water and the peat 

each uses are sufficiently different to 

create two very distinct whiskies. The 

16-year-old Lagavulin is considered 

by many to be the benchmark for a 

great Islay whisky. 

malts.com 

WE LOVE 

Where to stay 

Recently reopened, 

The Machrie Hotel is set in 

the dunes of Islay, six miles 

from Lagavulin village. Its 47 

bedrooms have views across 

island’s peat plains, over the 

hotel’s own golf course or 

as far as the remote Mull of 

Oa peninsula. Seven miles 

of pristine beaches and the 

opportunity to spot white 

eagles, puffins, short-eared 

owls and waders make this an 

hotel for wildlife enthusiasts 

as well as golfers and 

whisky-lovers. 

campbellgrayhotels.com 


CARDHU 

SPEYSIDE 

Started as an illicit still in 1810 by the 

whisky smuggler John Cumming, 

Cardhu became respectable 

when Johnnie Walker & Sons of 

Kilmarnock became a regular 

purchaser of its single malts to go 

into their famous blend. Eventually 

in 1893 Cumming’s daughter-inlaw 

sold the distillery to Johnnie 

Walker on the condition that the 

family could continue its day-to-day 

running of the stills. A company 

myth runs that spiders in the tun 

room have always had a beneficial 

effect on the fermentation process 

and this has led them to being a 

protected species at the distillery. 

cardhudistillery.com 

Where to stay 

Cardhu Country House is a 

former manse half a mile from the 

distillery. It offers just six bedrooms 

with salmon and sea trout fishing 

nearby. The house is at the heart 

of Speyside’s Malt Whisky Trail, a 

unique signposted tour that visitors 

can follow to eight local distilleries, 

including Dallas Dhu which is now a 

whisky museum and visitor centre. 

cardhucountryhouse.co.uk 

DONT MISS 

HIGHLAND WHISKY 

FESTIVAL 

A new annual celebration 

of the established Highland 

Whisky Trail. 

highlandwhiskyfestival.co.uk 

GLEN SCOTIA 

CAMPBELTOWN 

Campbeltown was once the 

powerhouse of Scottish whisky 

production with over 30 distilleries. 

Unfortunately, Prohibition in the United 

States wrecked its export market. 

These days the region is rebuilding with 

three revitalised distilleries. Glen Scotia, 

founded in 1834, is one of the smallest 

distilling operations in Scotland with 

just seven employees. 

Five single malts are produced here, 

including the Victoriana, a modern 

recreation of their classic Victorian 

Single Malt. Exposing the casks to the 

unique salty sea air of Campbeltown 

during ageing is said to contribute to 

the whisky’s distinctive taste. 

glenscotia.com 

Where to stay 

Carradales Luxury Guest House 

Fourteen miles north along the coast 

from the Glen Scotia Distillery sits this 

cosy four-bedroom Victorian guest house 

warmed by log fires. The nearby fishing 

village of Carradale has its own golf 

course plus a local bus that goes five times 

a day into Campbeltown itself. 

carradales.com 


TALISKER 

THE ISLE OF SKYE 

In 1960 when fire destroyed 

most of Skye’s most famous 

distillery, its five uniquelyshaped 

stills – odd-looking 

might be a less diplomatic 

word – were rebuilt in exacting 

detail. Everyone agreed that 

the shape of the stills might 

somehow be responsible for 

the whisky’s unique spicy 

flavour. 

A maritime location 

alongside Loch Harport also 

affects the taste in a subtle 

way. Talisker was much 

enjoyed by Robert Louis 

Stevenson who praised the 

whisky in his poem “The 

Scotsman’s Return from 

Abroad”. Today Talisker 

is held by many to be the 

quintessential Islands Whisky. 

malts.com 

Where to stay 

Twenty miles north of 

Talisker stands Skeabost, a 

former hunting lodge that was 

rebuilt for comfort in 1871. 

With the River Snizort running 

through its grounds this is the 

perfect place for salmon and 

trout fishing. It is also the only 

hotel on Skye with its own golf 

course. The recent renovation has 

blended the original Victorian 

features with contemporary 

furniture and tweeds in dramatic 

primary colours. 

skeabosthotel.com 

THE LOWDOWN 

GETTING THERE 

plane British Airways fly to Edinburgh 

and Glasgow several times a day from 

Heathrow, Gatwick and London City 

airports with single fares from as little 

as £35. ba.com 

INTRODUCTION 

For the most user-friendly introduction 

to Scots Whisky visit The Scotch 

Whisky Experience next to Edinburgh 

Castle: 354 Castlehill, 0131 220 0441 

scotchwhiskyexperience.co.uk 

BritishTravelJournal.com 47 

© VisitScotland/ Paul Tomkins

Mull of Galloway Lighthouse 


Images in this feature are ©VisitScotland/Kenny Lam/Paul Tomkins

I T I N E R A R I E S 

SOUTH WEST 

COAST 300 

Scotland 

Jessica Way explores the magnificent beauty of the 

south west coast of Scotland, discovering some of the 

finest hotels to stay in and places to visit along the way 

YOU'VE PROBABLY ALREADY heard of 

Scotland’s North Coast 500, a circular route 

around the northern top of Scotland from 

and to Inverness, and now, more recently, the 

South West Coastal 300 route has launched, a stunning 

drive of just over 300 miles, firmly placed on the travel 

itinerary wish-list for tourists looking to experience their 

own slice of Scotland. 

There is no one way to travel and explore either the 

NC500 or SWC300, the choice of where you start, 

and finish, is yours too. Both scenic driving routes cover 

several hundred miles, and you could easily spend weeks 

at a time exploring a single stretch of the coast, and still 

feel you have only just scratched the surface. 

The choice of spectacular white sandy beaches, pretty 

coastal towns and villages, and landscapes filled with 

soaring mountain views, makes discovering your own 

coastal adventure as easy as the coastal breeze itself. 

Much of the west coast, although sometimes exposed 

to the whims of the North Atlantic weather, is shielded 

by the inner isles, with easy access to island-hop across 

to the likes of Arran, Islay, Jura, Mull, Iona and Skye 

- making our only touring challenge avoiding island 

temptation and sticking to our pre-planned route! 

EDINBURGH TO DUMFRIES 

Flying from Southampton to Edinburgh our SWC300 

journey began with a pleasant two-hour drive south to 

Dumfries, known as the ‘Queen of the South’. 

Picking up our hire car from the airport (we used 

enterprise.co.uk) was straightforward, and touring by car 

is made easy in Scotland. In addition to the motorways 

and good main roads, there is an excellent network of 

lightly trafficked rural roads, as well as strong signposting 

for the main tourist routes. 

While driving look out too for the many brown ‘Thistle 

Signs’ by the road that point the way to all kinds of walks, 

trails, attractions and adventures. 

About half way on this journey we stopped to see 

Scotland’s Highest Village – Wanlockhead. Sitting at 

an altitude of 467 metres, and home to The Museum of 

Lead Mining, which tells the story of the local industry 

and allows you to go down a former working mine. 

There’s also a lovely tea room serving pasties, homemade 

soup, scones, cakes and other light bites. 

Once in Dumfries itself we really enjoyed visiting 

the Robert Burns House (robertburns.org). Now a free 

museum, with friendly volunteers and a donations box, 

it was previously the house in which Robert Burns lived à 


Kirkcudbright Harbour and Marina 

and where he wrote some of his best poems. There are 

many of his most famous quotes to read and inspire, 

and a lovely touch is seeing the inscription of his initials 

scratched into the window pane of his bedroom. 

Enjoying a day of culture, our next visit was to the 

fabulous new visitor centre, Moat Brae (peterpanmoatbrae.org), 

described by author J.M. Barrie as his 

'enchanted land' – and the place where Peter Pan, and 

the imagination within his stories, was born. 

Moat Brae itself was originally the home of J.M. Barrie’s 

school friends Henry and Stewart Babbington – with his 

own house just a few hundred metres away – Barrie is 

quoted to say “I was more in that house (Moat Brae) more 

than any other in Dumfries” and himself acknowledged 

Moat Brae as being his inspiration behind Neverland. 

Ten years of fundraising and restoration work has 

gone into turning this impressive, historically significant 

Georgian house, and gardens, into a modern, light, freeflowing, 

interactive museum space. You should definitely 

make a visit if you are passing by Dumfries – we were 

really impressed. It has been achieved beautifully – while 

remaining sympathetic to the original features. 

Inspiring imagination and creativity is at the heart 

of the museum – which aims to inspire and offer new 

opportunities to children (and young people) interested 

in creative writing and literacy. With the local community 

and many passionate people behind the project, I am sure 

the museum will be a huge success for Scotland. 

We rested our heads for the night at the Cairndale 

Hotel and Leisure Club (cairndalehotel.co.uk) where we 

enjoyed a delicious four course Table d’Hote dinner in 

the Reivers Restaurant. Following a morning visit to the 

hotel's own private leisure club, The Barracuda Club, 

where they offer a range of beauty treatments including 

holistic and aromatherapy therapies, and a hearty full 

Scottish breakfast, we were back on the road. 

“Our first 

stop of the 

morning was 

at the pretty, 

quiet coastal 

village of 

Rockliffe – a 

beautiful 

sandy bay, 

surrounded 

in parts by 

large rocks 

and rock 

pools, lined 

with rows 

of pretty 

white-stone 

and pastel 

cottages.” 

ROCKLIFFE TO PORTPATRICK 

In search of some sea-side tranquillity and fresh sea air 

we headed south towards the Solway Firth. Our first stop 

of the morning was at the pretty, quiet coastal village 

of Rockliffe – a beautiful sandy bay, surrounded in parts 

by large rocks and rock pools, lined with rows of pretty 

white-stone and pastel cottages. 

There is a large car park just before you reach the bay 

or limited 20-minute parking at the beach itself. For us 

that was enough time to soak up the views and enjoy an 

ice-cream. On less sunny days when the ice-cream van 

stays at home (we were lucky with the weather – and mine 

was a 99!) there is also a curios/antiques shop which 

serves takeaway coffees that can be enjoyed sitting out 

on the green. 

If you enjoy walking, there is a superb linear coastal 

walk linking Rockcliffe to the east - with Sandyhills, a 

picturesque sandy beach - said to be one of the finest 

The Harbour Cottage Gallery in Kirkcudbright 


cliff walks in Britain with stunning clifftop 

scenery and views across the Solway Firth to 

Cumbria and the Isle of Man. There is also 

an infrequent bus service leading back to the 

start – so if you wanted to give your legs a rest 

there’s no need to walk. 

Heading in the opposite direction (west) 

there is a more manageable mile-long Jubilee 

Footpath linking Rockliffe to Kippford – a 

charming waterside location with several 

places to choose from for lunch. 

Known as the Solway Riviera, popular with 

yachtsmen, Kippford is lined with granite and 

white-washed houses, colourful cottages, a 

gift shop and café. We choose The Anchor pub 

(which also has rooms) for a locally sourced 

fresh seafood platter, and crab sandwich - 

washed down with a refreshing juice. 

Back in the car we continued our journey west 

towards Kirkcudbright, passing Dundrennan 

Abbey - dating back to 1142, and previously 

a Cistercian monastery - and where Mary 

Queen of Scots spent her final night in 

Scotland back in 1568. 

It was also close to here where we drove 

past a 35 foot Wickerman, which I am fairly 

certain must have been on the grounds of 

East Kirkcarswell Farm, in memory of the 

Wickerman Festival, and founder, Jamie 

Gilroy who was tragically killed by gunshot 

to his head in December 2014. The music 

festival, which had been held at his farm since 

2001, had become world-famous – likened to 

a smaller version of Glastonbury – it attracted 

the likes of Scissor Sisters, James, The 

Proclaimers and many more. 

Traditionally the festival would end at 

around midnight with the burning of a giant 

wickerman built by local craftsmen Trevor 

Leat and Alex Rigg. The designs for these 

became ever more elaborate and inventive 

over the years. 

Kirkcudbright, known as 'Scotland's 

Artists’ Town', made a quirky stopping point. 

It was easy to park, and we enjoyed looking 

in the new Kirkcudbright Gallery and some 

of the independent craft shops and galleries. 

There’s an interesting harbour where you 

can get ice-cream and fish and chips, and an 

old-fashioned looking petrol station where we 

filled up the car. 

Next we crossed the bridge over the River 

Dee and drove alongside the shore past the 

beautiful Dhoon beach with its views of Little 

Ross Island and its lighthouse. Continuing along 

the B727 via Borgue we joined the A75 and took 

a divert to explore Gatehouse of Fleet – and I am 

so pleased we did. 

Here we discovered the less-well known 

Carrick Bay and Knockbrex viewing point – a 

stretch which has been voted ‘Favourite Beach 

in Dumfries and Galloway’, but is still quiet 

from tourism. A hidden gem – not completely 

hidden of course, after-all ‘we’ found it - but 

there was hardly a car, or soul, in sight. 

The sea level was so low we could have 

walked across to Mossyard, had there been 

time, but we did enjoy walking barefoot on 

the sand and dipping our toes in the sea. 

Continuing along the A75 passing 

Creetown, the route took us to Newton 

Stewart (another great stopping point for 

shops and cafés) and with stunning views of 

the Galloway Hills and Wigtown Bay. 

From here it is just over an hour’s drive to 

Scotland`s most southerly point - the remote 

Mull of Galloway – where you can delight in 

views of the Galloway Hills, Lakeland Fells, the 

Isle of Man and even the Mountains of Mourne. 

This is one of the highlights of the route and 

somewhere you could spend several hours 

simply soaking up the atmosphere and views! 

Climb the 115 steps to the top of the 

fabulous Mull of Galloway Lighthouse, where 

a spectacular view from the balcony and 

lightroom will reward you for your efforts! 

Pop in to the Gallie Craig award-winning cliff 

top coffee house or make time for a visit to 

the RSPB Nature Reserve. From here re-trace 

your route and, just before Drummore, follow 

the signs for Port Logan. Here we turned à 


Pictured left; 

Portpatrick 

Harbour 

Kirkcudbright. 

Pictured below and 

opposite page; 5 

Star Luxury Hotel, 

Glenapp Castle. 

right, and, after a couple of miles, rejoined the A716 

northwards. Port Logan has another beautiful beach 

and nearby is ‘Scotland's most Exotic Garden’ – Logan 

Botanic Garden. 

From here you are not very far from Portpatrick, 

where you will find several bars and restaurants on the 

harbourside, pastel-coloured houses, set around a small 

bay with cliffs forming the backdrop. 

GLENAPP AND GALLOWAY FOREST PARK 

From Portpatrick we headed north past Stranraer onto 

the A77 along the coast of Loch Ryan to Cairnryan - 

where we could see the ferries sail from terminals at each 

end of the village across to nearby Northern Ireland. 

Shortly afterwards we arrived in 5-star paradise for 

our next overnight stay - easily one of the most beautiful 

hotels in Britain. Glenapp Castle Hotel is ideally situated 

on the South West Coast 300 route – and an absolute 

must (if your budget allows). 

Let the team take care of your itinerary for a couple 

of days – they’ve just launched an exciting and unique 

variety of experiences from mountain biking, archery, 

private falconry displays, stargazing, golf, whisky tastings 

– there’s even ‘forest bathing’. 

The castle itself, built in 1870, is a strikingly beautiful 

example of the Scottish baronial style of architecture. 

Designed by the celebrated Scottish architect David Bryce 

“We arrived 

in 5-star 

paradise 

for our next 

overnight 

stay - easily 

one of 

the most 

beautiful 

hotels in 

Britain.” 

for Mr. James Hunter, the Deputy Lord Lieutenant of 

Ayrshire, the castle’s mellow sandstone battlements are 

topped by soaring turrets and towers, earning Glenapp 

a rightful place as one of the most romantic castles in 

Scotland. 

In January, the castle took delivery of their new boat, 

the ‘Glenapp Castle’ which can take up to eight guests 

on private sea safaris exploring the stunning clear waters, 

remote beaches and the amazing sealife and birds they 

are blessed with on their doorstep. 

In addition to this, the castle has stunning gardens 

and grounds for you to explore and enjoy at your leisure, 

including the wooded Glen walk. You are warmly 

encouraged to take a map, jump into a pair of Hunter 

boots, and grab a Glenapp jacket, before heading out to 

enjoy the sights, sounds and scents of thirty-six acres of 

castle grounds. 

You could easily spend an afternoon strolling the 

carefully tended lawns and pathways, surrounded by the 

vast array of exotic plants that have been collected since 

Victorian days. 

We enjoyed taking a stroll through their beautiful 

walled gardens, where we came across their wonderful 

Italian garden, designed by Gertrude Jekyll, and a historic 

Victorian glasshouse – currently being restored by 

talented craftsmen to its former glory. In time this will be 

a wonderful space where they will grow more of their own 

fruit and vegetables. 

And that’s not the only improvements being made 

at this incredible hotel – there’s also the excitement of 

the imminent launch of their 4-bedroom penthouse 


apartment, sure to rival some of the finest 

private suites in the world. 

I was given a sneak-peek, hard-hat tour, 

of the conversion, starting with a trip up 

the beautiful spiral staircase (in the castle's 

turrets) which links the bedroom suites and 

reception rooms, as well as leading guests 

to the private roof terrace with 360 degree 

views over the surrounding countryside and 

coastline. And what a view – I was told you 

can see as far as Ireland on a clear day! 

This space will be perfect for small 

groups... there's also a drawing room which 

can be used for private dining, a sitting room, 

games room, kitchen, sauna and beauty 

treatment room, along with an astonishing 

master bedroom suite boasting more 

magnificent views. 

Glenapp Castle Hotel is also the perfect 

base for exploring the Galloway Tourist 

Route (from National Trust Scotland). This 

route, stretching through the lush countryside 

of Dumfries & Galloway and into Ayrshire, 

in the very heart of Burns’ country, takes 

in Gretna Green before continuing on to 

Dumfries (where we started our tour). From 

Dalbeattie you then venture through the 

beautiful Galloway Forest Park, just a 40 

minute drive inland from Glenapp Castle 

Hotel, and an absolute must for spotting 

wildlife – 774 km² of unspoilt countryside with 

many rare and endangered species, including 

red deer and wild goats, and can you believe 

it, a fifth of all of Scotland’s red squirrels! 

There are three visitor centres, and the 

option to choose from two scenic Forest 

Drives; either follow in the footsteps of Robert 

the Bruce or take a picnic beside a peaceful 

loch. The area is also Scotland’s first Dark 

Sky Park – and one of the best places to 

stargaze in Europe. 

Some of the guests staying at Glenapp look 

on the castle as their home away from home, 

with many repeat visitors, who have been 

guests for several years. Between receiving the 

finest quality of hospitality, in an atmosphere 

of peace, tranquillity and relaxation – nothing 

is too much trouble for their staff who are 

ready and eager to be at your service. The 

staff were exemplary - always offering to go 

the extra mile to make your stay as enjoyable, 

and memorable, as possible. 

For such a grand castle – surrounded by 

12,000 acres of Lord Inchcape’s Glenapp 

Estate – it is refreshingly unpretentious too. 

Currently there are 17 luxurious and 

spacious suites and bedrooms, each 

individually furnished with a unique 

combination of fabrics, art and antiques. 

We stayed in a Junior Suite, situated in the East 

Wing of the castle, furnished in grand stately 

Victorian décor, complete with fireplace, large 

windows, and a luxurious marble bathroom. 

For our evening meal we chose the six 

course gourmet menu – courses included 

Spinach and Quail’s Egg, Duck Foie Gras 

Bonbon and Fillet of Loch Duart Salmon – 

finished off at the end of the evening with 

a warming dram of whisky in the lounge! 

The food and service was flawless, and 

unobtrusive – a lovely evening. 

AYRSHIRE AND SANQUHAR 

Following our wonderful stay at Glenapp 

Castle we were back on the road, a downhill 

coastal route heading towards Ballantrae, 

with beautiful views, and where we had our 

first proper glimpse of Ailsa Craig - a volcanic 

(extinct) island famed for the granite used for 

curling stones, and home to over 40,000 sea 

birds with a summit of 1,100 feet. à 


SOUTH WEST COAST 300 

A view towards 

Turnberry 

Lighthouse and 

Ailsa Craig from 

the 8th green of the 

new King Robert 

the Bruce golf 

course at Trump 

Turnberry, Ayrshire 

As we entered Ballantrae we took a left turn, pausing for a 

moment, to take in the stunning views of Ailsa Craig, and 

Arran, lying just offshore from the harbour. 

We then followed the A77 along the coast for another 

half an hour where we reached Turnberry, then on to the 

A719 – and our next destination, another triumphant 

5-star hotel within this glorious stretch of coastline – the 

iconic Trump Turnberry Resort. 

Known throughout the world for its incredible 

championship links golf courses – there’s an entirely 

different vibe here from Glenapp, less personal, more 

energetic, however it’s another fabulous choice – 

especially if you love golf and sporting activities. 

Trump Turnberry is home to three exceptional golf 

courses, the Open Championship Ailsa course, King 

Robert the Bruce and the Arran – giving it the accolade as 

one of the finest golf resorts anywhere in the world. 

There’s also a fantastic onsite activity centre, Turnberry 

Adventures, offering guests a variety of activities 

including, archery, horse riding, quad bike safaris, mini 

highland games and water zorbing. Naturally there's a 

luxurious spa, offering a range of ESPA treatments, and a 

lovely swimming pool where we enjoyed a refreshing dip. 

Trump Turnberry has over 100 years of heritage and 

history – and, with the gleaming white-washed buildings 

and immaculate lawns, golf courses, lighthouse and 

amazing sea views, the resort is an impressive sight. 

Resident Piper, Bryce McCulloch’s Scottish Bagpipe music 

added to the spirited ambience. 

The ‘big news’ for the resort this year is the launch 

of their stylish new collection of nine two-bedroom 

cottage suites lovingly restored, following a £1.6 million 

investment, back to their full glory. 

The Cottage Suites, dating back to 1902, have been 

elegantly designed and furnished – the interiors, inspired 

from the surroundings and rich heritage, have many of the 

signature Turnberry touches you would expect, combining 

a timeless, cosy interior with modern functionality. 

The suites offer a self-contained private haven for 

guests – with all of the perks of a traditional hotel suite, 

yet with even more space. A great option for families, 

with cots, high chairs and stair gates available, and/or 


Culzean Castle 

from Croy Shore, 

South Ayrshire. 

Picture Credit: 

Paul Tomkins 

The Cottage Suites 

at Machrie Lodge 

Lounge 

dog owners, designed to be dog friendly, with gourmet 

treats, plush dog beds, water bowls and toys available on 

request. 

There’s a wide choice of unique dining experiences, 

including the signature restaurant 1906, which takes its 

name from the year Turnberry opened; an elegant Grand 

Tea Lounge and Bar, home to the opulent afternoon tea; 

and Duel in the Sun restaurant overlooking the legendary 

Ailsa golf course. 

We opted for 1906, which offers classic dishes with a 

modern twist. Here we enjoyed a lovely meal, and as the 

sun set, out came our unique Chef’s Table experience 

– our Orkney beef steak diane, one of their signature 

dishes, being cooked to our preference at our table. 

Dessert was another timeless classic, 1906 Crepe 

Suzette, flambéed at our table side before being served 

with Grand Marnier, orange and vanilla ice cream. Our 

waitress was lovely – very warm and chatty, and enjoyed 

telling us how lucky she felt to have her job at Trump 

Turnberry – a step up from her previous job, she told us, 

where she’d been serving fish and chips. 

The surrounding area offers even more to explore – 

from castles to distilleries, from beaches to the birthplace 

of Robert Burns – you could spend several days or more 

exploring Ayrshire. 

Back on the road we passed the entrance to Culzean 

Castle and drove down the ‘Electric Brae’ where your 

car appears to be rolling uphill! Onwards the road 

approaches Dunure with more jawdropping views of 

Arran. A detour of a mile or so from here brings you to 

Dunure Village - a pretty harbour and the extensive ruins 

of its 13th Century Castle and Dovecote. 

Return to the A719 from where it’s a short distance 

to Alloway, a suburb of Ayr and famed for being the 

birthplace of Robert Burns and the setting for his epic 

poem, Tam o’ Shanter. Our final stop – here we visited 

Burns Cottage and Burns Birthplace Museum, housing 

his life’s work, before heading back on the road for the 

airport. 

An endlessly fascinating region of Scotland. We loved 

the variety of quaint coastal villages, diverse landscapes, 

and culturally inspiring attractions in this single stretch of 

coastline. It was an extraordinary journey that has given 

us an appetite for more. Missing the haggis already, the 

more rugged NC500 route is now firmly in our sights. u 

FOR MORE INFORMATION ON 

VISITING SCOTLAND, PLEASE VISIT 

VISITSCOTLAND.COM 


N E W T O U R I N G R O U T E 

GREAT 

WEST WAY 

London to Bristol 

This summer marks an exciting moment for luxury travel in the 

UK with the opening of England’s first ever touring route, destined to 

become one of the premier routes in Europe, and probably the world 

Words | Jules Mittra 

FORMING A BROAD corridor on either side 

of the historic King’s Road’ (known as the 

‘A4’ today), the Great West Way links two 

of England’s foremost historic port-cities; 

London in the east, and Bristol in the west. This road 

has been one of the most important routes in England 

for almost two millennia. At around 125 miles in 

total length, the Great West Way passes through, 

or close to, some of the most spectacular and 

fascinating landscapes, locations, attractions, history, 

experiences and cultural highlights that England has 

to offer. From the prehistoric to the ultra-modern, 

from rural idylls to urban jungles, the Great West Way 

offers curious, inquisitive travellers the opportunity 

to go way beyond the routine tourist experience 

and connect with England more powerfully and 

authentically than ever before. For those with the 

requisite resources, time and interest, it’s the perfect 

way to discover England, in luxury, unhampered and 

at a pace that is relaxed and immersive. With so much 

on offer, creating the perfect itinerary for you won’t 

be difficult, but here’s mine... 

Starting in London, the Great West Way begins in 

the heart of the historic City. As it heads west out of 

the city through Richmond and Twickenham, it passes 


Buckingham Palace, well outside the city when 

first built, past the Ritz, before escaping the capital 

through Windsor and the suburbs and satellite towns 

that orbit London’s west flank. An ideal starting point 

for exploring the Great West Way, especially for those 

having just arrived from overseas, is The Langley, a 

recently opened 5-star hotel just on the outskirts of 

London, only 10 miles from Heathrow. Destined to 

become one of England’s most prestigious country 

hotels and originally the Duke of Marlborough’s 

hunting lodge (ie the Churchills), The Langley recalls 

the character, charm and elegance of an imperial 

age whilst offering the comfort, service and facilities 

of a contemporary 5-star hotel. The rooms are 

sumptuously yet tastefully decorated, the spa complex 

is stunning, and the hotel boasts a signature restaurant, 

bar and exquisite afternoon tea. However, for food 

lovers, Heston Blumenthal’s Fat Duck is just a mere 20 

minutes away and offers one of the most extraordinary 

culinary experiences in the world, and one that 

people travel across the world to experience. As such, 

booking far in advance is a necessity. 

Assuming an overnight stay at The Langley, a visit 

to Windsor and its famous castle may be an essential 

stop for some. Personally, Eton, on the opposite à 

© VisitEngland/Doug Harding

Mounted police officers at Windsor Castle

Pictured above: Eton High Street; Pictured 

below: Eton College; Pictured opposite page top 

to bottom-right: Highclere Castle signage and 

exterior; West Kennet Long-barrow; Great Bedwyn, 

and the Avebury Stone Circle 

bank of the river Thames and connected to 

Windsor by a pretty foot-bridge, is a more 

enticing, enchanting and less crowded 

prospect. Home to Eton College one of 

the world’s most prestigious and oldest 

schools, both the town and the school are 

fascinating places to visit. Call the College 

up ahead and it is often possible to find 

times to visit the school or at least parts 

of it, including the 1400s King’s Chapel, 

often guided by one of the scholars, 

replete in his top hat and tails. 

However, the town is also worth 

perusing, if only for a stroll along its 

Victorian streets with stores that seem 

to have stood still in time: gentlemen’s 

outfitters with displays of fine hats, 

riding-coats and assorted gentlemanly 

attire, sweet shops with jars of hardboiled 

marvels. 

It may be obvious but travelling by 

car along the Great West Way provides 

the most flexible and simplest way of 

exploring the route; however, there’s 

no need for the transport to be any less 

interesting than the route itself. Whether 

you’d prefer to self-drive or enjoy the 

views from the back seat, there are plenty 

of options for hiring a classic British 

car for the trip from companies such as 

‘Bespokes’, or ‘Vintage Classics'. 

Assuming Windsor and Eton are 

morning stops, the afternoon should offer 

something different. One such option 

would be a visit to Silchester. Silchester 

has to be one of the most incredible 

hidden gems along the Great West Way. 

Once a significant Roman town, it was 

abandoned in the early 400s following 

the Roman army’s sudden departure, 

recalled in a vain attempt to save Rome 

from the barbarian hordes. Silchester’s 

walls were too long, and the site lacked 

a natural defensive location or adequate 

water supply, so its inhabitants seemingly 

abandoned it in favour of more secure 

Roman towns such as Bath and London. 

Today its walls, gatehouses, road plan 

and even amphitheatre are still visible, 

with the rest of the site left to grazing 

cattle and sheep. 

It’s an extraordinary place to visit; 

quiet, peaceful and evocative, and a great 

stop before making the short hop over to 

near-by Heckfield Place for another night 

of divine luxury. 

Continuing the journey west the 

following day, the route along the King’s 

Road/A4 provides passes you by historic 

town after historic town and achingly 

beautiful countryside. Fans of Downton 

Abbey may want to stop by Highclere 

Castle; it’s a busy stop today but a drive 

from that point to Marlborough takes in 

some of the most spectacular countryside 

in the south of England. 

Before arriving at Marlborough, 

the village of Great Bedwyn offers a 

myriad of incredible experiences. First is 

Wilton Windmill, a rare example of a 

maintained windmill, with private guided 

tours available and bags of flour to take 

home. For fans of the industrial era, one 

of the UKs most significant industrial 

treasures - the world’s oldest working 

steam engine at Crofton Beam Engines, 

is close by. Designed by Watt, the man 

who spurred the industrial revolution with 

the first efficient steam engine, this engine 

has been pumping water up for the 

nearby canal for over 200 years. Enjoy a 

private, guided tour before stopping for 

lunch at the award winning Three Tuns 

Freehouse. 

Whilst Stonehenge is recognised 

the world over, just twenty miles north 

of it lies another prehistoric UNESCO 

world heritage site that to me at least, 

is more awesome, mysterious and 

magical. Avebury Stone Circle is the 

largest stone circle or ‘henge’ anywhere 


GREAT WEST WAY 

“Silchester has to be one of the most incredible hidden 

gems along the Great West Way... It’s an extraordinary 

place to visit; quiet, peaceful and evocative” 

in Europe. Located within a gentle bowl 

of hill lines, its scale and location is truly 

awe inspiring. By way of comparison, 

Stonehenge’s diameter is approximately 

98 metres, whilst Avebury’s is 347 metres 

across. And although we are fairly confident 

about Stonehenge’s purpose, Avebury’s 

remains a mystery. Touch its imperious stones 

and walk along its enormous earth-banks, 

built up out of the chalk spoil taken from 

the deep, wide ditches beneath and gaze 

upon the prehistoric monuments that dot 

the landscape all around it. Aside from the 

stone circle itself, Avebury also boasts several 

other fascinating prehistoric features nearby; 

the 2.5km stone avenue that links Avebury 

to the ancient Ridgeway path, Silbury hill, 

the largest man-made mound in Europe 

built over generations, similar in size to a 

contemporary Egyptian pyramid, and finally, 

West Kennet Long-barrow. This ancient 

burial chamber was first constructed over 

5500 years ago and remained in constant 

use for over a thousand years. Step inside 

to discover remarkable Neolithic burial 

chambers and the detritus of modern-day 

druids and pagans who still enter the tomb to 

leave votive offerings of candles, corn dollies 

and ribbons in honour of the spirits. It’s a 

completely ethereal experience. 

If a change of scene is required, perhaps 

a sensory experience like tasting some of 

the fine local produce would be desirable? 

Cheesemakers, Distillers, Artisan food 

producers can be found dotted across the 

region, but perhaps unexpectedly, so can 

wine-makers. England, not traditionally 

known for its wines, is fast developing 

as a wine producing nation. Its southern 

chalk soils are perfect bedding ground for 

champagne style varietals and the warming 

climate is rapidly making southern England 

a Goldilocks zone for such wines. It’s still very 

much a cottage industry, but outstanding 

vineyards are emerging across the Great 

West Way region. One such vineyard is 

a’Beckett’s Vineyard. Stop by for a private 

tour of the facilities, vines, process and of 

course, a wine tasting. As a contrast to the 

luxury hotel, a great alternative is a stay at 

a private rental. The Three Daggers Spa 

Barn. The Three Daggers was originally a 

simple coaching inn on the road at Edington, 

Wiltshire, but today, under the stewardship 

of a wealthy and passionate owner, it boasts 

one of the finest restaurants in the area, as 

well as its own craft beer brewery (which 

can be visited privately), a first-class farm 

shop filled with local produce and delicious 

delicacies and pickles no longer in common 

use. Most importantly however, is the 

accommodation itself. The Three Daggers 

has its own rooms, but also offers one of the 

most sumptuous, private and well-equipped 

private holiday rentals anywhere in the region. 

The Three Daggers Spa Barn is a complex of 

buildings for private hire that sits high above 

the road and inn below, looking across to 

the vale beyond. The vista is breathtaking; 

stunning hill-lines, fields, villages and distant 

towers and church spires fill the view. Enjoy 

a little tranquillity, quietly reading under soft 

light, on a comfy sofa whilst gazing across 

the view from the comfort of the glass-fronted 

barn that serves as the communal living à 



“Bath also offers the 

perfect base from which 

to explore the local 

region – in essence, to 

discover England.” 

Pictured left-right: The Henge Shop, 

Marlborough; Great Chalfield Manor, 

Wiltshire and Caen Hill Locks at Devizes 

Images courtesy of greatwestway.co.uk 

area. Or clamber into the spa-pool at the very 

top of the property, enjoying a glass or two of 

champagne, as dusk falls on the scene below 

and the bubbling heated waters of the pool 

turn to steam as they meet the cool air above. 

Stonehenge is an ideal stop the following 

day; it’s a must-see but whilst ‘inner-circle 

access’ tours are possible, unless you plan 

on block-booking the entire 30 inner-access 

places, a guided tour with a knowledgeable 

expert offers a better experience. The newly 

installed path allows visitors to come within 

a few metres of the stones during regular 

hours whilst an inner-access tour means that 

you’ll always be struggling to keep the 20 

plus other people out of your photos as they 

wander inside the circle. 

There’s also an incredible variety of 

options for venturing away from the wellknown 

as well. For those interested in grand 

historical houses, and breath-taking gardens, 

a visit to Great Chalfield Manor is a must. 

Owned by the same family who’ve held it 

since the early 1800s, it is now partially 

maintained by the National Trust so open to 

the public, but available for private viewings. 

Lunch or drinks on the lawn with Patsy and 

Robert is a spectacular experience worth 

investing in. 

However you choose to fill your day, the 

next stop is Bath, and there is no better way 

of heading into this fabulous historic town 

than by climbing aboard a narrow boat at 

Bradford on Avon and making the gentle 

cruise into Bath over a matter of four or 

so hours. The canal was built to facilitate 

the movement of goods in the industrial 

revolution but today, travelling the stretch of 

canal from Bradford on Avon to Bath offers 

one of the most relaxing and interesting 

experiences you could hope for. Say hello to 

other canal residents, stop at one of the pubs 

or cafés enroute, journey over great stone 

viaducts, through picturesque tunnels and 

deep locks, and pass creamy coloured stone 

rows of Georgian houses, emerging in the 

heart of Bath. There’s no better way to enter 

the city. 

When it comes to accommodation in 

Bath, there simply is no better choice than 

the Royal Crescent Hotel. Located at the 

centre of one of Europe’s most recognised 

and celebrated residential buildings, the 

hotel provides luxury, comfort and an oasis 

of peace for visitors to this extraordinary 

city. Boasting period rooms and décor as 

befits a building that symbolised the zenith 

of Georgian architecture and British imperial 

confidence, the Hotel’s restaurant is firstclass 

as are its spa and facilities. Its greatest 

asset to me though, is its gardens. Located at 

the rear of the building and enclosed by the 

converted coach-houses behind, the hotel’s 

gardens are a hidden gem in themselves 

and the perfect place to enjoy an afternoon 

tea. Just minutes from all of the attractions 

of Bath, yet purposefully designed as a 

suburb to the city in the 1770’s, so that the 

residents could enjoy the pleasures of getting 

a sedan chair into, and out of town, the 

Royal Crescent Hotel offers the opportunity 

to stay in a world-famous heritage building, 

alongside the service, facilities and 

tranquillity expected of a 5-star hotel. 

Bath itself is a city that deserves a stay 

of several nights. Though it can be seen 

in a day, a more leisurely stay to explore 

its UNESCO world heritage protected 

architecture, incredibly well-preserved 

Roman Baths complex, majestic Abbey, 

and plethora of art galleries, small museums, 

restaurants, bars, streets, independent shops 

and one of the best theatres in the country, a 

single day in Bath is a little miserly. 

Bath also offers the perfect base from 

which to explore the local region – in essence, 

to discover England. Located at the southern 

tip of the Cotswolds, Bath is less than an hour 

from Stonehenge, Glastonbury, Cheddar 

Gorge, Bristol and Wales. The region is à 


Descend into an expansive and eccentric land, populated with over 1,000 animals from all 

continents. Delve into 450 years of history spanning 16 generations of the Thynn family 

with Longleat House; one of the finest examples of Elizabethan architecture in Britain. 

Home to the UK’s original safari park established in 1966, Longleat is also the only 

animal collection in England to have southern koalas. 

Book online at longleat.co.uk and save up to 15%, group discounts also available. 

Explore Gough’s Cave where the oldest, most complete skeleton in Britain, dating back 

10,000 years, was discovered in 1903. Wander up the 274 steps of Jacob’s Ladder and then on 

to the highest, inland limestone cliff formation to find an abundance of wildlife including the rare 

Cheddar pink, then descend into the caves to marvel at the beautiful, natural rock formations. 

Book online at cheddargorge.co.uk and save up to 15%, group discounts also available. 

Follow the paths taken by generations of travellers… 

Discover Longleat and Cheddar Gorge & Caves, 

both within easy reach of the Great West Way. 

GreatWestWay.co.uk

Kids go 

FREE 

EXPLORE THE GREAT WEST WAY ® 

WITH AN EXPERT GUIDE 

Chauffeur driven tours with a Blue Badge Guide 

www.southwestdriverguide.co.uk | southwestguide@gmail.com


Pictured below left-right: The 

Cross Baths; Pulteney Bridge and 

river weir; Clifton suspension 

bridge; and Royal Ascot 

teeming with history, landscapes, artisans, 

food and beverage producers, gardens, 

grand houses, steam railways and more. 

In fact, Bath and the region offer so many 

interesting choices for those looking to 

do something unique and different, from 

private dining whilst enjoying the historic 

‘Cross Bath’, to enjoying private tours of its 

galleries or museums, to caving, boating, 

ballooning or a private steam train ride with 

dinner served in a historic dining car, Bath 

and the region offer almost anything you 

can imagine. 

Bath’s larger neighbour, Bristol, is the 

end point for the Great West Way, and is 

just as worthy of a stay as Bath. 

The two cities are connected by a 15 

minute train ride, and are often seen as 

twin cities. If that is so, they are more 

Danny Devito and Arnold Scwartzenegger 

than identical siblings. Bristol, just inland 

from the mouth of the River Avon, was 

historically England’s second port (after 

London) until the industrial revolution 

made larger ships and deeper ports 

Liverpool, Glasgow and Belfast more 

relevant. Whereas Bath is small, genteal 

and homogenous (both in its architecture 

and residents), Bristol is diffuse, edgy, 

industrial and creative. Bristol is a city of 

neighbourhoods and diverse experiences. 

It’s an incubator for art and creativity 

(Banksy, Wallace and Gromit, Portishead 

and the Chemical Brothers all originate 

in Bristol) but the city is also known for 

its industrial innovation; The world’s first 

suspension bridge, the world’s first fully 

steam powered screw-propelled steam 

ship as well as one of the few remaining 

Concordes all reside there. 

Whatever it is about ‘England’ that 

engages and excites you most, the Great 

West Way most likely has it and probably 

offers the best experience of it you’re 

likely to find. It is a true treasure trove of 

discoveries, possibilities and experiences. 

For those wishing to go beyond the generic 

and formulaic - and to do it in style… 

Welcome to the Great West Way. u 

Jules Mittra is the founder of Around and 

About Bath (aroundandaboutbath.com), an 

innovative tour company transforming the 

local travel experience: From sightseeing to 

discovery, meaning and connection. 

RESOURCES 

Download a Great West Way map 

free from their website: 

GreatWestWay.co.uk/explore/maps 

Order a copy of the Great West Way 

Travel Magazine: 

isubscribe.co.uk 

S U M M E R E V E N T S 

ROYAL ASCOT 

18-22 JUNE 

Arguably England’s most famous – and grandest 

– horse racing event, with five days of races each 

kicked off by a royal carriage parade. This is your 

chance to wave at The Queen and to wear a 

fabulous hat! 

ascot.co.uk 

HENLEY ROYAL REGATTA 

3-7 JULY 

Established in 1839, this annual regatta attracts 

rowing crews from around the world to its five 

days of head to head knockout competitions 

and is regarded as an integral part of the English 

social season. 

hrr.co.uk 

BATH CARNIVAL 

13 JULY 

Bath’s biggest party features a procession of 

more than 1,000 dancers and musicians through 

the city plus plenty of world music on the sound 

systems and at Party in the Park in Sydney 

Gardens. 

bathcarnival.co.uk 

BRISTOL INTERNATIONAL 

BALLOON FIESTA 

8-11 AUGUST 

Europe’s largest annual meeting of hot air 

balloons brings colour to the sky above Bristol 

with twice-daily mass balloon launches and the 

chance to take a ride yourself. 

bristolballoonfiesta.co.uk 


I N F O C U S 

PETWORTH 

West Sussex 

Jessica Way heads to Petworth, a picturesque market town nestled in the 

heart of the South Downs National Park, to discover that there’s much more to 

this stylish up-coming destination than the antique shops it's renowned for 

ONE HOUR FROM LONDON, this delightful historic 

town with its cobbled streets, hidden lanes and 

picturesque chocolate-box cottages, draped in 

wisteria, looks more like a quintessentially country-chic 

getaway than the stuffy old-fashioned history-buff’s treasure trove 

that I’d imagined it to be. 

I really had no idea; I am pleasantly surprised to see a town that 

has not simply relied on its history and heritage (of which it has a 

great deal), or the droves of Mayfair residents, (who flock to its 

antiques stores to furnish out their million-pound pads), to keep 

afloat. Petworth has moved with the times – and you certainly don’t 

need to be among the super-rich to enjoy it. 

You can enjoy a day here exploring the town by simply milling 

around, no need for your car or much in the way of forward 

planning (just the regular town map leaflet readily available to pick 

up) - and you won’t be likely to break the amount of steps record on 

your fitbit either. Nor will you be bored, go hungry, or feel thirsty – 

and this is what surprised me the most about Petworth. 

There is enough by way of tea rooms, modern gastro pubs, 

delicatessens, fashion and art shops, dotted around the little 

market square for a day of culture, shopping and first-class dining 

experiences – not to disappoint even that of a Sloane’s highstandards. 

Most recently, the New Street Bar & Grill opened its doors (last 

summer), previously a fine dining restaurant under the name of The 

Leconfield, now a stylishly modern, air-conditioned restaurant and 

bar, with pretty patio perfect for alfresco dining on warmer days. 

The menu focuses on fresh, top quality local ingredients cooked 

simply, to a high standard - with many local suppliers such as 

Nyetimber, Goodwood and Nutbourne on the menu. 

Expect quality British fare, from daily specials to classics, such 

as Marinated Kentish Lamb Rump and Locally Reared Sussex Beef 

from the grill, and amongst the starters, Crispy Squid Rings and 

Gressingham Duck Croquettes. 

Around the corner is 'The Hungry Guest Cheese Room' and if 

you didn’t know about it before you might first notice it on the New 

Street Bar & Grill dessert menu – not just their cheese, their biscuits 

too – in fact there’s a lot more to ‘The Hungry Guest’ story than just 

cheese and biscuits... 

They have a food shop, a butcher's, and a café in town – I visited 

all three and felt rather envious of the locals having such fabulous 

fare, artisan foods, and home-made produce within such easy reach 

of their daily lives. I am a fan of shopping ‘local’ for my meat, veg, 

butcher's and bakery goods, and here you are spoilt for choice. 

I was sure to fill up my shopping bags, and savour every mouthful 

of the Hungry Guest Breakfast from their café (Lombard Street just 

off the main square, they serve food here all day) – award winning 

sausage, dry cured bacon, slow roasted tomatoes, Portobello 

mushroom, poached eggs and sourdough toast. Their coffee, 

although not their own brand (it was Illy, awarded the most ethical 

coffee company in the world), was so good that I went back to their 

shop (in Middle Street) to buy some of my own. 

Back to the cheese – they have an exceptional collection of 

artisan and farmhouse, many sourced from the British Isles. à 



“There’s a plethora of 

walking trails to choose 

from, rolling countryside 

and open park spaces 

surround this town.” 

The Cheese Room is lined with classics such 

as Cheddar, Stilton and Roquefort as well 

as less familiar cheeses, such as Bleu de 

Termignon and Brie de Meaux. 

Don’t be put off by the glass-sided walk-in 

doors either, you are encouraged to go in and 

ask questions (and taste the cheese). The 

doors are there to keep the humidity up and 

the temperature down, not the cheese-lovers 

out. There’s a Cheesemonger who will be 

there to offer you advice, and recommend 

accompaniments too… pickled cherries, 

truffle honey or fig paste anyone? 

From savoury to sweet – there’s also a 

traditional sweet shop well-worth a visit, 

Coco Café and Sugar Lounge, where oldfashioned 

sweet jars are filled with whimsical 

delights – bonbons, lollies, liquorice and lots 

more. Coco Lola – the ice cream van is open 

from April -October for ice cream, sundaes, 

knickerbocker glorys and sodas – and it 

also makes a great option for lunch offering 

more than the name suggests, served in the 

charming sugar lounge, designed to feel 

reminiscent of the film ‘Chocolat’. 

Aside from spending my time eating, I 

met many independent-shop owners, selling 

quirky gifts, art, and on-trend fashion, all 

within a short walk (or loop) from the central 

market square. Shopping here is a millionmiles 

away from the modern commercial 

high streets - and this is before I’ve even 

mentioned the word ‘antiques’. 

Petworth is internationally recognised 

as being a major hub for antiques, often 

being described as ‘The Antiques Centre of 

the South’. There are over 30 antique shops 

dotted around the town – with interior brand 

name, Augustus Brandt taking pole position – 

with both a showroom and lifestyle shop, each 

within easy walking distance of each other. 

Augustus Brandt's 7,500 square feet 

showroom is the jewel in the crown - an 

enticing destination store for home interiors, 

set within the inspirational surroundings 

of Newlands House, a spacious Georgian 

Grade II listed town house and adjacent 

coach house. Give yourself enough time to 

visit here – there’s over 17 different rooms to 

explore (open six days a week). 

Discover a carefully curated selection of 

objects, bridging antique and contemporary 

furniture, artworks, photography and 

collectables from renowned designers, such 

as Linley and William Yeoward. There is a 

room dedicated to Lucan Fashion country 

and shooting clothing and a new room 

promoting celebrated Brazilian furniture 

designer, Casa Botelho. 

There’s also an ever-expanding range of 

gifts and offerings, including Mungo and 

Maud pet accessories, Argentine home 

brand, La Claraz, and Italian leather store, 

Giobagnara. 

Then there’s the lifestyle store in Market 

Square – selling a gorgeous range of 

accessories, furnishings and gifts. You will 

find collections from brands such as David 

Linley, established by the Queen’s nephew, 

with gifts in wood, leather, glass and silver 

to the colourful Santorus ranges of bold and 

colourful silk scarves and stationery. 

It was a beautifully crafted Quaternity Chess 

set which caught my eye, priced £1,500 

(Instruction Book Included) but not yet 

having mastered the 2-player game I decided 

I was not quite ready for the 4-player version 

and resisted temptation, opting instead for a 

candle from the famous Cire Trudon, France’s 

oldest candle company, priced £75. 

With all this food and shopping choice, 

you might feel the need to walk it off, and with 

Petworth’s rural location, set in the heart of 

the South Downs National Park, you are in the 

right place. There’s a plethora of walking trails 

to choose from, rolling countryside and open 

park spaces surround this town. 

A favourite with the locals is Petworth 

Town and Shimmings Valley path (ifootpath. 

com), or for longer rambles try Pulborough to 

Petworth (walkingclub.org.uk). 

Then there’s Petworth Park itself. 

Wandering through the streets you are 

unlikely to go far without coming across 

a National Trust sign for Petworth House 

and Gardens. One of the country’s most 

famous stately homes, surrounded by a vast 

wall, which, according to the locals, was 

constructed to keep the servants in rather 

than the vagabonds out. 

Spanning 900 years of history and 

passing through just one family, Petworth 

House was built as to rival the palaces of 

Europe - a vast mansion set in a beautiful 

283-hectare (700-acre) deer park, 

landscaped by ‘Capability’ Brown and 

immortalised in Turner’s paintings. 

You can step inside this English 'Versailles' 

for £15.90 for an adult/£8.00 for a child, 

and while the gardens adjoining the house 

are included in the entry fee, you can access a 

larger portion of them – known as à 


HOLIDAYS IN HOMES OF DISTINCTION 

in Petworth and locally in the South Downs National Park 

SOARING 

IMPOSING 

For availability and choice of 20 cottages around 

Petworth and over 80 in the South Downs please visit 

our website or give us a call on 01798 877336 

www.amberleyhousecottages.co.uk 

Ancient Castle, 

Stately Home & Gardens 

for more details, call 

01903 882173 or visit 

www.arundelcastle.org 

FREE HOUSE • EAST DEAN 

FREE HOU 





THE STAR & GARTER IS A GORGEOUS COUNTRY PUB, WHICH NESTLES IN THE 

SOUTH DOWNS NATIONAL PARK AT THE HEART OF THE GOODWOOD ESTATE. 

THE STAR & GARTER IS THE A GORGEOUS STAR & GARTER COUNTRY IS THE A GORGEOU 

PUB, STAR WHIC & GA 

SOUTH DOWNS NATIONAL SOUTH PARK DOWNS AT THE NATIONAL HEART SOUTH OF PARK THE DOWNS AT GOT 

THE STAR & GARTER EAT, DRINK IS A & GORGEOUS BE MERRY! COUNTRY PUB, WHICH NESTLES IN THE 

THE THE STAR STAR & GARTER & GARTER IS A SOUTH GORGEOUS DOWNS IS A GORGEOUS COUNTRY NATIONAL #FOLLOWTHESTAR 

COUNTRY PUB, PARK WHICH AT THE PUB, NESTLES HEART WHICH IN OF THE THE GOODWOOD ESTATE. 

NESTLES IN THE 

SOUTH SOUTH DOWNS DOWNS NATIONAL NATIONAL PARK AT PARK THE HEART AT THE OF HEART THE GOODWOOD OF THE GOODWOOD ESTATE. 

ESTATE. 

01243 811 EAT, 318 DRINK & BE MERRY! 

EAT, INFO@THESTARANDGARTER.CO.UK 

DRINK & BE MERRY! #FOLLOWTHESTAR 

D @STARANDGARTERED EAT, 

E DRINK 

@THESTARANDGARTEREASTDEAN & BE MERRY! 

Q @STAR_GARTER 

#FOLLOWTHESTAR EAT, DRINK & BE MERRY! 

#FOLLOWTHESTAR 01243 811 318 

01243 811 INFO@THESTARANDGARTER.CO.UK 

318 #FOLLOWTHESTAR 

INFO@THESTARANDGARTER.CO.UK 

01243 811 318 

INFO@THESTARANDGARTER.CO.UK 

THE 

BLUE BELL 

D @STARANDGARTERED E @THESTARANDGARTEREASTDEAN Q @STAR_GARTER 


01243 811 318 


EMSWORTH 

EAT, DRIN 

#FOLLO 

0124

Petworth Park – for free. Simply pass through 

the long tunnel and some rather grand iron 

gates to explore the 700-acre park at your 

leisure. 

WHERE WE STAYED 

Ryde House, on Angel Street, a newly 

refurbished three-bedroom Georgian villa 

tucked away almost secretly (by just a simple 

gate in the wall) from the quiet town - the 

shops, pubs, restaurants, butchers', bakery, 

and other yet-to-be discovered attractions, 

just a short stroll away from our front door. 

The property is grand and beautifully 

furnished, in fact it could nearly be mistaken 

for another of Augustus Brandt’s luxurious 

showrooms. Elegant and understated, an 

early 19th Century Grade II listed building - 

full of charm and character. 

There's a pretty walled courtyard garden 

to welcome you before you reach the front 

door. Inside the interiors are just as grand, 

there’s a large sitting room, a dining room, 

light and spacious Shaker style kitchen, three 

cosy bedrooms and bathroom upstairs. There 

is plenty of room here to entertain, and to feel 

completely at home amid the antique rugs, 

woven tapestry, cosy cushions and fireplaces. 

Thought has been given to the details, 

with luxury touches, such as a delightful (yes 

you’ve guessed it Hungry Guest!) hamper of 

foodie treats waiting for you in the kitchen, 

fresh flowers in the dining room, to the 

selection of games, movies, books and music 

inviting you to start the wood burner, light 

the candles, and rejoice in the sitting room. 

High-ceilings, grand staircase and long 

passageways give the property a feeling 

of space and elegance, while the mix of 

antique furniture with modern styling, neutral 

colours, and homely furnishings, is both 

relaxing and energising. 

Under the same ownership as Ryde 

House is the wonderfully stylish Angel Inn 

(practically next door) with origins as old as 

Petworth House, and where modern luxury 

comes as standard; this is another great 

option for breakfast, lunch or dinner. 

You can also stay here - there are seven 

beautifully designed guest rooms, medieval 

origins, reflected in original beams, fireplaces 

and quirky passageways. 

Aside from the architecture, food and 

luxury accommodation, Petworth is a 

destination of art, culture and music. 

To experience the town’s full zenith 

of community spirit, with proud locals 

displaying their ‘home-grown’ talent, then 

the Petworth Summer Festival, (16 July-3 

August) is a must. See the town come alive 

with classical concerts, jazz, cabaret, theatre, 

comedy and visual arts. 

There are events all through the year, 

to include the pertinent Petworth Park 

Antiques and Fine Art Fair (10–12 May), 

Petfringe (12 April) comedy, the nearby 

Goodwood Revival (13-15 September) and 

Festival of Speed (4-7 July), and later in 

the year the Literary Festival returns (26 

October-3 November). 

With all this just over an hour’s drive 

from London and only 30 minutes from 

the south coast, I’m surprised more people 

aren’t packing up their bags and heading to 

Petworth. Cultural treasures, locally farmed 

fare, stylish shops, beautiful countryside - It 

certainly ticked all the right boxes for me. u 

P L A C E S T O V I S I T 

PETWORTH HOUSE 

Inspired by the Baroque palaces of Europe, 

a stately mansion nestled housing the finest art 

collection in the care of the National Trust. 


SOUTH DOWNS NATIONAL PARK 

From rolling hills to bustling market towns, the 

South Downs National Park's landscapes cover 

1,600km2 of breathtaking views and hidden rural 

gems. A rich tapestry of wildlife, tranquility and 

visitor attractions. 

southdowns.gov.uk 

COWDRAY PARK 

The home of polo in the South of England. Enjoy 

a relaxed picnic lunch lawn side watching some of 

polo's highest rated players, or enjoy 18 holes on 

Cowdray's revered golf course. 

cowdray.co.uk 

GOODWOOD ESTATE 

The Goodwood Estate in the heart of West Sussex 

is not only home to world famous events, Festival 

of Speed, Goodwood Revival and the Qatar 

Goodwood Festival, there is also The Goodwood 

Hotel, Waterbeach Spa, two golf courses, and 

sustainable restaurant, Farmer, Butcher, Chef. 

Plus there are a number of driving and flying 

experiences for an unforgettable day out. 

goodwood.com 

WEST DEAN GARDENS 

Nestled at the foot of the South Downs, West 

Dean Gardens is one of the country's greatest 

restored gardens. Visitors can explore a wide 

range of historic features on a gentle walk around 

the grounds. 

westdean.org.uk/gardens 


W E E K E N D B R E A K 

FISTRAL BEACH 

NEWQUAY 

Cornwall 

Cornwall is known for its stunning beaches, world-class surfing, fresh seafood and 

picturesque harbours. In pursuit of a taste of this summer-utopia, Jessica Way 

takes a family weekend break to Newquay's iconic Fistral Beach on the west coast 

A 

“ SURFERS PARADISE”. “But mum I can’t surf?” said 

my 15 year old daughter as we travelled the four 

hour car journey from Southampton. “It’s ok”, 

I reassured her, we’ll take a lesson together. We 

could have caught a flight (its just 40 minutes from London 

Gatwick to Newquay) but with four wet suits, bodyboards and 

beach towels filling up the roof rack, we made the right choice. 

The excitement levels rise as we reach the hotel, both 

daughters recognising the dramatic Victorian red brick 

immediately from one of their best-loved movies, The Witches, 

from the book by Roald Dahl. We are staying at The Headland 

Hotel – where the Grand High Witch (Anjelica Huston) plotted 

to kill children, turning them into mice, and where the Hotel 

Manager (Rowan Atkinson) tried desperately to protect his 

hotels' reputation. 

We arrive to check in, though sadly it’s not with Rowan 

Atkinson, however we are told about him – “in real life he is just 

like Mr Bean…” the girls chuckle and Joshua (Front of House 

Operations Manager) continues… “On one occasion, he ran a 

bath, and went to bed without turning the taps off. The flood 


Images © Matthew Hawkey

▶ 

reached the ground floor from his second-floor bedroom and 

all the equipment, the photocopier, electric typewriters, that 

were in the film’s production office (in the first-floor bedroom) 

were completely written off!”. 

The grand lounge is in view from the reception desk, 

accessible through a white-wooden panelled glass door 

frame. It invites us in to further explore the red carpet and 

stylish antique furniture; white beaming arches, high ceilings, 

chandeliers, fireplaces, and fabulous draping curtains around 

the great bay windows, where light is flooding in to the hotel. 

This is modern luxury - the grotty carpets and shoddy 

interiors are nowhere to be seen. “It’s rooms 223, 227 and 205 

that were used in the movie” Joshua tells us. “(No, I’m sorry 

girls – that’s not where we are staying tonight)”. We are gently 

escorted to follow the porter back outside – and as we walk, 

we agree, any wide-eyed children looking around the hotel for 

mice today would be likely to fail. 

as has its spa (the first ‘Five Bubble’ rated spa in the region) – 

and they are not stopping there. The overall ambition is huge, 

with the launch of a stunning new outdoor swimming pool 

and leisure complex planned for launch in 2020 – and more 

recently the announcement of their new 5-star self-catering 

cottages. Perched on a private clifftop, luxury cottages just 

yards from the UK's most famous beach? Yes please! 

We were lucky enough to be amongst the first to try 

them out. Designed to offer a more flexible, relaxed coastal 

experience, and as an alternative option to staying in one of 

the 95 bedrooms within the hotel, but still offering guests use 

of their hotel, spa and rosette-worthy dining. 

Like ours, most of the holiday cottages (there are 39 in 

total) offer ocean views, and outdoor spaces such as a deck, 

balcony or lawn, and I loved that seasonal and fresh farm à 

WHERE WE STAYED 

The Headland Hotel and Spa are celebrating 40 years (in 

2019) since the owners John and Carolyn Armstrong first 

bought the property. A labour of love – it has cost them 

around £30 million over four decades on improvements and 

repairs. Though this is an investment that has paid off; the 

multi-award-winning hotel has been completely transformed, 

As featured 

on our front 

cover! 

Pictured 

left: 

Enjoying 

lunch on 

the terrace 

at The 

Headland 

Hotel 


produce could be delivered direct to your door. The interior is 

as awesome as the waves from the sea below, surf-inspired, 

coastal chic, with luxury touches throughout – as well as 

practicality, such as having a large area for hanging and 

drying your wetsuit. 

There’s a modern, beachy, sky blue and turquoise green 

colour scheme, complimented by crisp white paint work, 

contemporary artwork, painted wooden shutters, light oak 

furniture, bright flowers, colourful fruit bowls, and stylish 

candles splashing vibrant colour throughout the large open 

plan kitchen and living area. Light and airy – and the views 

are spectacular. 

You need to walk across the hotel car-park to get to the 

spa, located at the rear of the hotel, but they are happy for 

you to stroll around in your dressing gown and slippers. The 

spa includes six stylish treatment rooms, to include a VIP 

suite, Rhassoul mud chamber and Swedish sauna, there’s also 

a Cornish salt steam room, hot tub, aromatherapy showers, 

hydrotherapy pool and state-of-the-art gym. I escaped to 

enjoy a lovely 40 minute Indian Head Massage, then it was 

time to hit the beach. 

THE PERFECT WAVE 

Forget Maui and Malibu, Newquay's famous Fistral Beach 

has some of the best breakers around. Between autumn and 

spring surfers can test their skill with impressive swells known 

to reach up to 12 feet high. This much-loved beach is known as 

being one of the most consistent and best surfing beaches in 

Europe. Summer is perfect for beginners to have a go though, 

with 1-4ft waves gracing the shoreline. 

Surfing aside, it’s a beautiful long and sandy beach, backed 

by dramatically beautiful rocks and cliffs. It’s a great allrounder, 

perfect for strolling, sunset-watching and sandcastles, 

as well as being home to a number of restaurants, including 

Rick Steins famous fish & chips (or try the take-away Pad Thai 

Pictured 

left: Jessica's 

husband and 

daughters 

outside The 

Headland Hotel 

overlooking 

Fistral Beach 


noodles – delicious!) Another must try is the Fistral Beach Pasty 

Shack, serving one of the best Cornish Pasties you will find in 

Cornwall - simply, delicious food. 

So although Fistral Beach has earned its place as the 

destination choice of many competitions and festivals in every 

surfer's competitive and social calendar, it is also a friendly, 

lively, picturesque spot, welcoming to everyone – including 

those who, like me, are in search of their first taste of wavefuelled 

excitement. 

First, we head down to the Surf Sanctuary to get kitted 

out for these wave-riding endeavours. The Headland offers 

introductory surf classes, hire, and improver and private 

lessons, as well as coasteering, kite surfing and stand-up 

paddle boarding. We opt for straightforward surfing… 

though we discover it's far from straightforward! 

Even the 4ft waves we find challenging. We spend 

more time practising our method on the beach than we do 

actually attempting the waves. However, it’s great fun, our 

instructor is fantastic, and we are enjoying the experience. 

By the afternoon we are back in the sea, full of grit and 

determination, and with a lot of super-fast arm paddling our 

persistence starts to show signs of paying off. The girls are 

catching the occasional wave, while I am mostly on my knees, 

until finally I stand and, keeping my balance, don’t fall. It’s 

taken me what feels like a million attempts, but it’s all worth it 

for that one wave – incredible. I feel so alive, I can actually surf 

(well, kinda). 

DURING BOARDMASTERS 

Boardmasters Festival, held every August, (7-11 August 2019) 

is a great time to visit – the beach is transformed into a vibrant 

surf festival complete with installations, live music, Cornish 

food stalls and bustling surf shopping village. 

In fact, the festival has become so popular that it’s split 

between two iconic locations, Fistral Beach and Watergate 

Bay (a 20 minute drive from The Headland Hotel). During the 

festival, Watergate Bay is the home to the main music arena. 

With multiple stages, bars, foodie feasts, fest-stalls and rides, 

it’s a show-stopping music-lover’s haven. u 


Enjoy a taste of the exotic this summer. 

In collaboration with iconic British designer Matthew Williamson, 

Newby Teas presents three limited edition luxury tea caddies containing 

bespoke tea blends that fire the imagination and stir the senses. 

Exclusively at 

www.newbyteas.co.uk

INVESTOR 

M O D E R N B R I T I S H A R T 

Panter & Hall. Donald Hamilton-Fraser RA (1929-2009) Study Spinnaker 

Words | Emma Johnson 

Buying something beautiful, that may eventually provide a return on your investment, is a great way to own a 

piece of British art history. And there has never been a more provident time to invest in Modern British Art à 


Pictured Left-Right: 

Banksy, The Kissing 

Coppers and Gladwell 

& Patterson, Francis 

Picabia, both featuring at 

Masterpice London 2019. 

THE TREND FOR INVESTING in high net worth 

items such as wine, art and rare books is often 

fuelled by media headlines proclaiming huge 

profits from recent sales - Hugh Grant, for 

instance, pocketed an £11 million profit for selling an 

Andy Warhol, and more recently, in November 2018, a 

David Hockney painting made $90.3 million at auction. 

And, while it can be a good way to put your money into 

something that you love, and that may bring a decent 

return over time, experts warn that caution is still to be 

advised. “These kinds of profits are black swans in the 

every day world of art dealing,” says Matthew Hall, 

founder and director of Panter & Hall Gallery in London. 

This is not to say, however, that in general, areas of 

the art world cannot rise significantly in value. Tastes 

change and whole schools of painting or individual 

artists can be rediscovered through a new interior design 

trend, or the concerted efforts of a dealer with a vested 

interest. In addition, art lasts for hundreds of years, and 

in many cases outlives its owners; while the wide-ranging 

availability of art from different genres and artists, means 

all budgets are accounted for too. For the investor, those 

on a limited budget can invest in an emerging artist when 

their prices are low, while those with bigger budgets or 

more knowledge can choose to pick a painting at a good 

price, and at a good time. 

THE CASE FOR MODERN BRITISH ART 

But what is the right time, or the right painting? For 

British art, it is now. British art has always been a fairly 

robust area of the art market, and it has consistently 

proven itself to be central to the art world. Modern 

“Remember 

that condition 

is everything. 

Always check 

the condition 

of a work and 

make sure to 

research any 

conservation 

or restoration 

work carried 

out. ” 

British Art is a direct result of the wealth of talent in 

the UK, which has some of the most highly regarded 

art schools in the world and many of the world's most 

acclaimed galleries and museums. It has for centuries 

produced world-famous artists and continues to 

have an outstanding record for producing extremely 

talented new artists with investment potential. “Where 

better to acquire a work of art than from a country that 

continues to produce ground-breaking artists,” says 

Matthew Hall. 

Essentially covering the area of 20th century British 

paintings, sculpture and works on paper, Modern 

British Art has a solid international reputation. Typified 

by a wide-ranging approach to style and genre, 

covering two world wars and over a century of work, 

it is an era that continues to evolve, as many modern 

artists that don’t consider themselves ‘contemporary’ 

have fallen under the Modern British bracket. Key 

names include Francis Bacon, Lucian Freud, David 

Hockney, Barbara Hepworth, Howard Hodgkin, L.S. 

Lowry, Ben Nicholson, Henry Moore and Bridget Riley 

– while Frank Bowling, Stanley Spencer, Damien Hirst, 

Banksy, Anish Kapoor, Chris Ofili, Paula Rego, Rachel 

Whiteread and Gilbert and George also fall into this 

category. 

Today, Modern British Art has never been more 

popular, says Penny Day, director and head of sales 

for modern British and Irish art at Bonhams. “The 

field of Modern British Art has seen a real surge in 

recent years and I think collectors are drawn to it as 

representing good value for money. Unlike the fields of 

Impressionist or Contemporary Art, it is still possible 


DAY-TRIPPER 

“Art is a question of taste. 

If you truly believe in one 

artist’s talent, you’ll be 

a great ambassador and 

will contribute to seeing 

their market value rise ” 

to acquire a really good example by a 20th 

Century British artist for under £100,000 

and indeed prices can start from as low as 

£500. Demand has increased year on year 

and we see no likelihood of that changing.” 

What makes Modern British Art a good 

investment of course, is a finite supply of 

goods, and the fact that it is a relatively 

clear and easy to analyse area of art. There 

are tiers of star artists who can be graded 

and valued and minor acolytes who benefit 

from their associations. “The prevailing 

dealer hegemony ensures that the prices are 

generally supported both at auction and 

at fairs, and the scale of supply allows for 

future sustainability,” explains Hall. “What 

was an academic backwater is now, thirty 

years on, a truly global market and as blue 

chip as any art market can be at this level.” 

HOW TO INVEST 

BE PASSIONATE 

As with many investments of this nature, your 

first consideration must be a passion for the 

subject, long before you consider profits. 

“Buy what you genuinely love and can afford 

and you should not go too far wrong,” says 

Robin Light, director of Crane Kalman 

Gallery in London. 

It is a view echoed by many of his peers. 

“As trite as it sounds, buy something you 

love,” continues Hall. “The chances are that 

you will be living with it for a very long time, 

so you may as well enjoy it.” 

Simon Tovey, associate specialist at 

Phillips action house in London, who also 

heads up their annual New Now show, 

echoes this sentiment, explaining that when 

you’re talking about an investment of this 

nature, money is simply not the only object. 

“I would advise that anyone looking to buy 

a work of art should treat it as a purchase, 

rather than as a financial investment. 

Buying artwork should be an emotionally 

rewarding investment and an enjoyable 

experience.” 

“Allow yourself to be guided by instinct,” 

adds Vera Kampf who heads up Singulart, 

an online art portal. “Art is a question of 

taste. If you truly believe in one artist’s 

talent, you’ll be a great ambassador and will 

contribute to seeing their market value rise. 

BE KNOWLEDGEABLE 

Investing in art should also be a chance to 

indulge a passion or pique an interest. Try 

to focus your investment or collection on an 

area, medium or specific artist that you like; 

picking a theme or a name helps to keep 

things coherent, especially if you eventually 

want to sell a collection as a whole. 

Be appreciative of all there is to learn, 

and take time to become knowledgeable. 

“Go to museums, galleries, exhibitions 

and art fairs,” says Robin Light. “You will 

find that most curators, dealers and artists 

are interesting, good people. They will 

share knowledge and exchange useful 

information and views which, in turn, 

should help you to make the right decisions 

based on your experiences.” 

If you find an artist whose works you 

admire, look at previous prices achieved 

at auction (Artnet and Artprice are good 

tools for this) which can give you a good 

idea of the market value, and stop you from 

overpaying. “Always buy the best example 

you can budget for,” advises Simon Tovey. 

This might mean a great work on paper 

over a lesser painting, or it might mean a 

bigger painting over a smaller one that you 

prefer. “For a new collector, I would always 

say to go bigger if you can, so you’ll have 

a stand-out work,” says Rebecca Wilson, 

chief curator at Saatchi Art. 

Hall agrees with assessment, and 

cautions buyers to think not just about 

names, but quality too. “There is a 

temptation to buy a third-rate work by a 

first division artist, however it will always be 

a third-rate work. A first-rate work by a à 

O N E S T O W A T C H 

STANLEY SPENCER 

“An A-lister. Spencer’s record for an oil painting 

stands at nearly $10m and yet it is still possible to 

pick up drawings in the low thousands.” (Matthew 

Hall, Panter & Hall) 

IDRIS KHAN 

“I can get lost in the depth and beauty of each 

of his creations be it a large scale print or an 

exquisite work on paper such as the one we 

recently sold.” (Simon Tovey, Phillips) 

ED SAYE 

“I don’t think he has had the attention yet that 

he deserves and he’s a pretty special artist with a 

unique vision and great integrity and technique” 

(Sara Ryan, New Blood Art) 

ORLANDA BROOM 

“She’s a British artist of distinction and 

experience, whose works have featured in 

many solo shows across the UK.” (Vera Kampf, 

Singulart) 

ALEC CUMMING 

“Alec spends his time between the UK and India, 

and travel and new places play a big part in 

his works. His paintings are vibrant windows 

onto another world, evoking a strong sense of 

the distinctive light, sky, and colours of specific 

places.” (Rebecca Wilson, Saatchi Art) 

FRANCISZKA THEMERSON 

“A highly talented Polish artist who relocated 

to London in 1940 and founded the influential 

Gaberbocchus Press with her husband, and 

developed her own distinctive style. (Angus 

Granlund, Christie’s) 

A Fine Yarn Painting by Alec Cumming 


A place of luxury 

with a wealth of history. 

A place of luxury 

place of luxury 

Welcome to JW Marriott Grosvenor House London. Ideally situated on Park Lane and overlooking 

Royal Hyde Park, our hotel offers truly authentic experiences inspired by a unique location. 

with A place a wealth of of luxury 

history. 

with wealth of history. 

with a wealth of history. 

From the thriving designer shopping district of Mayfair to the world’s most renowned art collections 

and museums with outstanding cultural attractions. We offer exceptional guest rooms, a tranquil 

Park Room serving the British tradition of Afternoon Tea, with JW Steakhouse, Corrigan’s Mayfair 

Welcome to JW Marriott Grosvenor House London. Ideally situated on Park Lane and overlooking 

or Ruya Welcome London to for JW exceptional Marriott Grosvenor culinary House experiences. London. Ideally Every situated detail of on your Park Lane stay and with overlooking us is designed 

Royal Hyde Park, our hotel offers truly authentic experiences inspired by a unique location. 

Welcome Royal Hyde to JW Park, Marriott to our nurture hotel Grosvenor offers and House truly celebrate authentic London. your Ideally experiences personal situated inspired passions. 

Park by Lane unique and location. overlooking 

From Royal the thriving Hyde Park, designer our hotel shopping offers district truly authentic of Mayfair experiences to the world’s inspired most by renowned a unique art location. collections 

From the thriving 

Welcome to JW We Marriott look designer forward shopping 

Grosvenor to providing district of 

House London. you Mayfair with Ideally an to the unforgettable world’s most 

situated Park experience 

renowned art collections 

and museums with outstanding cultural attractions. We offer exceptional guest Lane rooms, and a tranquil overlooking 

From and the museums thriving with designer outstanding shopping cultural district attractions. of Mayfair We to offer the world’s exceptional most guest renowned rooms, art collections tranquil 

Royal Park Hyde Room Park, serving our the hotel British offers tradition truly of authentic Afternoon experiences Tea, with JW inspired Steakhouse, by Corrigan’s a unique location. Mayfair 

Park and museums Room serving with the outstanding British tradition cultural of attractions. Afternoon We Tea, offer with exceptional JW Steakhouse, guest Corrigan’s rooms, a tranquil Mayfair 

or Ruya London for exceptional culinary experiences. Every detail of your stay with us is designed 

From the Park or thriving Ruya Room London serving designer for the exceptional shopping British tradition culinary district of experiences. of Afternoon Mayfair Tea, Every to the with detail world’s JW of Steakhouse, your most stay renowned with Corrigan’s us is designed art Mayfair 

to nurture and celebrate your personal passions. 

collections 

and museums or Ruya London with outstanding for exceptional to nurture 

To make a reservation cultural culinary and celebrate 

attractions. experiences. your 

visit: londongrosvenorhouse.com 

We Every personal 

offer detail passions. 

exceptional of your stay guest with us rooms, is designed a tranquil 

We look forward to nurture to providing and celebrate you with your an personal unforgettable passions. experience 

Park Room serving the We British look forward tradition to providing of Afternoon you with Tea, an unforgettable with JW Steakhouse, experience Corrigan’s Mayfair 

or Ruya London for We exceptional look forward culinary to providing experiences. you with Every an unforgettable detail of your experience stay with us is designed 

to nurture and celebrate your personal passions. 

To make a reservation visit: londongrosvenorhouse.com 

We look forward To make to reservation providing visit: you with londongrosvenorhouse.com 

an unforgettable experience 

To make a reservation visit: londongrosvenorhouse.com

ASK THE EXPERT 

Crackle Vine on Aluminium, Orlanda Broom 

John Bratby, Venetian Backwater 

currently lesser-valued artist will always 

be a pleasure to live with and has the 

potential to rise in value if the artist is rediscovered 

by the market in the future.” 

BE THOROUGH 

Remember that condition is everything. 

Always check the condition of a work and 

make sure to research any conservation 

or restoration work carried out. “Oils can 

be cunningly restored but a reputable 

dealer will point any problems out and 

price accordingly. Damage on works on 

paper, particularly prints, can seriously 

affect their value,” says Hall. 

As with most things, it’s important to 

accept what you don’t know, and that 

there are those with better knowledge, 

insight and connections, who can help 

take your passion for something and 

turn it into an investment. Decide what 

your objective is and choose the help 

you need on this basis. If you are buying 

purely for investment you need a good 

advisor, and if you are buying a piece that 

you love, which might eventually lead 

to an investment, then go somewhere 

like an online gallery or portal where the 

selection process has been done for you 

and then buy something you like. “Buy 

from an agent, dealer or gallery you know 

and trust, who has underpinning their 

offering a good relationship with the 

artists,” says Sara Ryan. 

If possible, also buy from a dealer 

who is a member of a recognised trade 

organisation – LAPADA, CINOA, BADA 

or SLAD are the best-known. “Much can 

go wrong in buying work from smaller 

auctions or unaccredited traders, there 

can often be little or no come back in the 

small print,” cautions Hall. 

NEW NAMES 

As you start to gain more confidence 

in your investment, you may find your 

interests expanding too. Supporting more 

contemporary artists is a really interesting 

way to develop your art knowledge, and 

to help shape the market of the future. “I 

love the fact that by investing in emerging 

artists you are supporting them right at the 

time they need it,” says Sara Ryan... “By 

giving them their first endorsement you 

are impacting the value of the piece you 

have invested in. The artist is encouraged 

to make more work, and other collectors 

consider them to be collectible, and the 

artist gains traction. It’s quite a compelling 

combination of ethics meets upside.” 

Of course, the most important thing 

to remember, is that ‘a good investment’ 

comes in many guises. “We would all 

like our assets to grow, but there is also 

the benefit of living with something lifeenhancing 

and beautiful,” says Robin 

Light. “And being the guardian of a 

painting or object, and looking after it for 

a certain amount of time and passing it on 

for the next generation to appreciate. We 

must not forget that most art outlives all 

of us.” u 

ANGUS GRANLUND, 

DIRECTOR, HEAD OF DAY 

SALE, MODERN BRITISH ART, 

CHRISTIE’S 

When investing in art, whether starting a 

collection or expanding one, it’s important 

to buy from the heart. 

î YOU SHOULD WANT TO LIVE 

WITH THE WORK YOU BUY, 

REGARDLESS OF ITS VALUE 

It’s important to view exhibitions to discover 

which works strike a chord with you. The Modern 

British Art category covers a very broad and 

eclectic period of creativity, spanning the 20th 

century through to the YBA’s. 

î THE FUTURE VALUE OF A WORK 

IS DIFFICULT TO PREDICT AND 

CAN’T BE GUARANTEED. 

Reputable artists like Henry Moore, Barbara 

Hepworth and Ben Nicholson will hold their value 

over time, while the market for less established 

artists is prone to larger fluctuations. Keep an eye 

on exhibitions at leading art institutions as these 

can help promote an artist to a broader audience. 

î AN ARTIST TO WATCH THIS YEAR 

IS FRANK BOWLING. 

He has a long-overdue retrospective at Tate 

Britain from May to August, while Bridget Riley 

is having a major retrospective in October at the 

Hayward Gallery. We will be offering works by 

both of these artists in our June sales. 

DON'T MISS 

May/June - ‘Sculpture in the Square’, an annual 

exhibition of outdoor sculpture in St James’s 

Square with large scale pieces from Henry 

Moore, Elisabeth Frink and Barry Flanagan. 

For more information visit christies.com 


H O T E L R E V I E W 

HECKFIELD 

PLACE 

Hampshire 

A little over an hour from London, a hotel with a no-expense spared 

approach to design is redefining British country stays. Chantal Borciani 

discovers the hotel Meghan and Harry chose for their private getaway… 

THEY SAY THE BEST THINGS come to those who wait, 

and in the case of Heckfield Place, the world was waiting 

a while. Originally due to open in 2012, the launch of 

the most exciting country house hotel to hit the UK 

hospitality landscape in two decades finally opened its doors in 

September 2018. Passion project of billionaire owner Gerald Chan, 

it is rumoured the wait was so the owner could get things just right. 

Though, renovating a Grade II listed mansion, where even the stone 

plant pots flanking the ornamental fountain are under protective 

covenant, would be no nimble feat for any owner. 

Set in 400 acres of bucolic Hampshire countryside, Heckfield 

Place was home to the Lefevre family for most of the 19th century, 

one of the most notable residents being Charles Shaw-Lefevre, 

Viscount Eversley, speaker of the House of Commons. Under 

Eversley’s head gardener, William Wildsmith, the estate gained 

an arboretum and ornamental lake, and became renowned for its 

exotic hothouse fruits. Today, undisclosed millions have been spent 

on the renovations and the refined and elegant result is still just as 

tightly interwoven with the landscape as ever. Mature woodland 

cocoons the estate, walled gardens are fragrant with roses and 

lavender, and a market garden and biodynamic farm supplies the 

hotel’s exquisite restaurants. 

At the entrance we are ushered past a sweeping staircase lined 

with black and white prints to a floor to ceiling French window. The 

team like guests to instantly lay eyes on the rolling countryside that 

surrounds them, and the picture window overlooking not one but 

two lakes certainly sets the tone for things to come. 

We move through to the vast ‘morning room’ (the name 

denotes the ideal time to repose and drink in the views) where 

early spring sunlight streams through yet more lofty windows, 

illuminating reading chairs and silken soft sofas. The bookcase is 

filled with literature to make “guests think”, while in the adjoining 

Drawing Room an original fireplace is offset with a giant gilded 

mirror, and contemporary art punctuates the soothing grey walls 

wonderfully. Every day, homemade scones, whipped butter and 

seasonal homemade preserves are laid out for afternoon tea; a 

blissful nod to the traditions of proper country life. 

The interior vision is the work of designer Ben Thompson, who 

trained under Ilse Crawford and worked on the revered Ett Hem 

hotel in Stockholm. In Heckfield, Thompson has created a sublime 

detailed country retreat, where natural textures, plants and a 

palette of muted greys, velvet creams and forest greens reflect 

the surroundings, while antiques, hand-picked art and crystal 

chandeliers add dashes of drama. 

In the main house, six spectacular signature rooms are the 

grandest offerings, each providing acres of space, lavish bathrooms, 

individual designs and even their own bespoke scent. These start 

from £1,750 a night, rocketing up to £10,000 for a night in the à 


hotel’s Long Room. The preserve of the Hollywood elite and 

nobility – the Duke and Duchess of Sussex are rumoured to 

have chosen Heckfield for their babymoon this year – the 

Long Room offers a vast private apartment with vaulted 

ceiling, private kitchen, sitting and dining room and secluded 

terrace. Fortunately for mere mortals, entry-level ‘Friends’ 

rooms start at £350 per night. 

For (seriously) special occasions, our Master Room, at 

£800 a night, was set in the wing known as the ‘Corridors’, 

and was all but flawless. Alongside the dressing room, 

there’s a luxurious country style bathroom, ample loft-feel 

style living space and capacious bed. The suite is dressed 

with Georgian timber furniture, hand-knotted wool rugs, 

original British artworks from the owner’s private collection, 

handmade throws and antiquities that feel lavishly curated 

yet rooted in place and purpose. Smaller, artisanal touches 

embolden the narrative; a corn dolly is used as the ‘do not 

disturb’ sign, your wooden room key (the hotel is soon to 

be fully plastic-free) comes in an envelope embossed with 

your initials, seasonal bouquets and single stems are deftly 

positioned, and woven baskets hang on hooks next to a 

wool covered hot water bottle – is there anything more 

delightfully English? On the writing desk, a selection of 

three tomes including John Ruskin’s On Art & Life and 

Virginia Woolf’s A Room of One’s Own feel thoughtfully 

selected. Even the mini bars prove noteworthy. Each 

cabinet is bespoke and painted to match its room, drawers 

glide open, freshly ground coffee is set in handmade pots, 

a run of supple leather pouches hold other accoutrement 

while homemade cordials and freshly baked cookies sit 

snugly in place. Even the kettle is bespoke; jet black and 

modernist. 

Despite the achingly good interior, Heckfield is as 

much about ensconcing one’s self in the land as it is about 

snuggling down in your suite’s billowing sofas. There are 

Hunter wellies, wax jackets and umbrellas on hand for 

guests in the Boot Room and maps of the gardens and 

routes around the undulating woodland to follow. 

We stroll down the gentle slope past Heckfield’s upper 

and lower lakes looping around to the ancient woodland 

where California Coast Redwood Sequoias, Blue Atlas 

Cedars, Grand Firs and Douglas Firs tower – with some 

trees dating back to the 18th Century. A testament to 

pioneering horticulturalist William Wildsmith, Heckfield’s 

forest, gardens, terraces and walled oasis have been 

expertly restored in the last few years and are now a 

pleasure ground for guests to explore. 

Run biodynamically, Home Farm is also open to guests 

and lies at one end of the estate with crops, chickens, 

saddleback pigs, a 70-strong flock of sheep and an 

expansive market garden and orchard. When we visit, 

thousands of tulip bulbs are nearing bloom, soon to be 

whisked up the hill to adorn the myriad vases in Heckfield’s 

rooms and corridors. In a few weeks, the farm’s peonies, 

“Despite 

the achingly 

good interior, 

Heckfield 

is as much 

about 

ensconcing 

one’s self in 

the land as 

it is about 

snuggling 

down in 

your suite’s 

billowing 

sofas.” 

sweet peas and roses will take their place. Similarly, the 

produce that grows supplies the changing menus at 

Heckfield’s two restaurants; Marle and Hearth. 

Skye Gyngell, of London’s Spring restaurant, is the 

hotel’s culinary director and both restaurants smack 

wonderfully of her commitment to produce and 'field to 

fork' dining. Centred around an open fire, Hearth is as 

intimate as it is atmospheric. Housed in the renovated 

coaching stables and a haven of exposed brick, beams 

and earthenware styling, the restaurant is only open 

to guests of the hotel and all dishes are cooked on the 

crackling fire. Ensure to look skyward during your meal, 

as the bell in the clock tower above the Hearth’s tables 

is not only older than Big Ben, it was made by the same 

brothers who manufactured it. 

Marle, named after a class of soil, feels part verdant 

summerhouse, part upscale dining room. There’s a lakeview 

terrace or tables inside that sit under swathes of 

luscious foliage. At one corner, a vast skylight – adorned 

with yet more trailing greenery – floods the area with 

light and is a beautiful spot for breakfast. 

This year, Heckfield will add a vast spa to its box of 

tricks (the current bothy spa only has three treatment 

rooms) and there are plans afoot for a country pub on 

the estate, plus homestays and cookery courses on the 

farm. Whatever comes, it is sure to be decidedly upscale 

and exceptionally well thought out. 

Unstuffy yet brimming with tradition and history, 

Heckfield Place may have a royal price tag but it also 

offers a new take on sophisticated British luxury where 

seasons and nature are intrinsic to the design cues and 

character of your stay. u 


01665 710700 coquetcottages.co.uk 

Mae’r gweision yn edrych 

ymlaen at eich croesawu i 

gartref y Cyrnol Prichard a’ch 

diddanu â hanesion eu bywyd 

nhw a bywyd y boneddigion! 

The servants look forward to 

welcoming you to the home of 

Colonel Prichard and regaling 

you with stories of their life and 

those of the Gentry! 

Banbury Photography 

01443 412248 

www.llancaiachfawr.co.uk 

15348 

Discover Northumberland this summer and 

make lasting memories in the finest 

collection of award winning family-friendly 

& pet-friendly holiday homes on the coast 

CarltonCourtMayfair 

10 Down Street, Mayfair, London 

All services 

offered for 

no extra 

cost! 

EXCLUSIVE UNIQUE SERVICED HOTEL APARTMENTS IN MAYFAIR 

Stay in home-from-home luxury, from 2 nights onwards, extremely spacious, fully 

serviced apartments in the heart of Mayfair, the most exclusive address in London! 

Unwind in the comfort of your own self-contained spacious apartment, enjoy fully inclusive 

seamless wifi, satellite and sky, 7-days-a-week on-site concierge, daily maid service, 

air conditioning, stunning en-suite bedrooms, beautifully equipped kitchens, luxurious 

living spaces, and 24 hour security, offering you peace of mind throughout the duration 

of your stay. Our selection of newly furnished 1-3 bedroom apartments, and 5 bedroom 

Town House are also just a short walk from London’s Piccadilly, Park Lane, Oxford Street 

and Bond Street. Excellent value - enjoy all this from a better price than a small hotel room! 

+44 20 7493 0597 | WWW.CARLTONCOURT.COM

10of the best 

Luxury stays 

BRITISH 

TRAVEL 

JOURNAL 

Loves... 

ESCAPE TO 

THE COAST 

BAMBURGH SHEPHERD’S COTTAGE A property with the wow factor - the 

views are spectacular. This fabulous large country holiday home sleeps 10 guests and welcomes 2 

dogs, with great views out to Budle Bay and just 6 miles from the pretty village of Bamburgh, with 

its stunning beach and magnificent castle. This is an ideal family retreat on the peaceful and idyllic 

Northumbrian coast. Priced from £875 for a short break coquetcottages.co.uk 

BOURNEMOUTH BEACH LODGES 

Bright and airy located only a few steps away from 

the soft sand and lapping waves. Priced from £295 

for a 4 night stay. bournemouthbeachlodges.co.uk 

SUFFOLK THE WATCH ROOM 

Built at the end of a private track on the site of a 

World War II watch station, with coastal views. 

Priced from £575 for 3 nights. suffolkhideaways.co.uk 

CORNWALL 

SALTPONDS HOUSE 

An exquisite cottage with a 

stunning, unobstructed sea 

views. Scandi inspired (there's 

a marvellous Scandinavian 

Jøtul woodburning stove that is 

more like a piece of art!) Grade 

II listed luxury cottage to rent in 

Mousehole, recently restored with 

stunning interiors. Up to 4 guests 

and child - Priced from £995 for a 

7-night stay. saltpondshouse.com 

PEMBROKESHIRE 

DRAGON'S EYE 

This is a great base to explore 

nearby Cardigan Bay, while 

enjoying its remote lakeside 

position and eye-like design, 

Plus, with access to a shared 

hot tub, games room and pizza 

oven, there is plenty to do on 

site. Featured on Channel 4's 

'Cabins in the Wild' series. 

Priced from £214 for a 3 night 

stay, originalcottages.co.uk 


CORNWALL 

THE BEACH HUT 

Millook, Widemouth Bay 

Perched on a grassy knoll right 

on the beachfront, The Beach 

Hut is set in the small valley of 

Millook between the popular 

harbour towns of Bude and 

Boscastle. Rediscover the 

simple life at this secluded selfcatering 

- and iconically Cornish 

- beach hut. First built in the 

1920s for use as a genteel 

tearoom, The Beach Hut is the 

ultimate coastal hideaway. This 

unique beach shack in North 

Cornwall occupies an enviable 

nook on the edge of a stunning 

coastal 52 acre estate, making 

it an idyllic location to inspire 

writers, artists and lovers alike. 

Up to 2 guests - Priced from 

£1,750 per week, £1,295 per 

short break. thebeachhut. 

uniquehomestays.com 

NORFOLK 

THE CATTLE SHED 

Set in a peaceful village setting 

just a few miles from Wellsnext-the-Sea. 

New this year, the 

loft style luxury, chic apartment 

has undergone a complete and 

truly sympathetic restoration. 

Sleeps 8-10 guests and 

welcomes 2 dogs. Priced from 

£1,650 per week or from £1,238 

for 3 nights' self-catering. 

originalcottages.co.uk 

CORNWALL 

THE SIGNAL STATION 

Journey to the end of the earth to this 

iconic and historic maritime home settled 

high on the cliffs of Cornwall’s wild Lizard 

Peninsula. Once offering safe passage 

to voyaging ships, The Signal Station is 

the most southerly self-catering home in 

the land where chic, understated charm 

perfectly complements the ever-changing 

horizon. Up to 6 guests. Priced from 

£1,925 per week, £1,395 per short break. 

thesignalstation.uniquehomestays.com 

NORTH DEVON WHIMBRELS 

Beach or private pool? Sleeps up to 12. Priced 

from £1,031 for 3 nights nicheretreats.co.uk 

TRESCO FLYING BOAT COTTAGES 

luxurious, 5 star hideaways right on the beach. 

Priced from £2,205 per week tresco.co.uk 


COOKERY SCHOOLS 

Whether you are a budding chef wanting to finesse your culinary 

skills or you just want to try something fun and different - a course 

at one of the UK’s best cookery schools is an absolute must 

Words | Chantal Borciani 

FROM CELEBRITY CHEF-LED KITCHENS TO STUNNING RURAL RETREATS, HERE ARE 

SOME OF OUR FAVOURITE COOKERY SCHOOLS THAT THE UK HAS TO OFFER... 

MAHÉ - PADSTOW, CORNWALL 

Adjoining the acclaimed Paul Ainsworth at No.6 in 

Padstow, Mahé is a new cookery school run by the 

Michelin-starred chef John Walton in conjunction 

with Paul and his wife Emma. It opened in May and 

runs from Thursday through to Saturday, providing 

an elegant and intimate space in which guests can 

discover how to create stunning dishes. 

The cookery courses are completely tailored to 

each guest and are priced from £250 per person 

which includes breakfast, a behind-the-scenes tour, 

lunch in No.6’s private room and a goody bag. 


PIED A TERRE MASTERCLASS KITCHEN 

EXPERIENCE - FITZROVIA, LONDON 

If you have ever dreamt of working in a Michelinstarred 

kitchen, then a culinary masterclass at 

London’s Pied a Terre is an absolute must. Every 

Friday, five aspiring chefs can enter the kitchen 

and work alongside the team; helping them create 

some of Pied a Terre’s most renowned dishes. 

The class will demonstrate how the restaurant 

creates their exciting dishes and will give you the 

skills and expertise to take home and try out on 

your friends and family. Guests will also receive a 

goodie bag full of treats and can enjoy a 4-course 

lunch with paired wines.

THE KITCHEN - CHEWTON GLEN, NEW 

FOREST, HAMPSHIRE 

The Kitchen, a standalone cookery school at Chewton 

Glen Hotel & Spa, is headed up by celebrity chef 

James Martin. It offers a range of courses, including 

baking, seafood and cocktail-making classes. 

You can even cook alongside the chef himself. 

The ‘Cook with James Martin’ classes are held for a 

maximum of 12 guests over a morning or afternoon. 

Participants can watch James prepare two of his 

favourite dishes, such as lobster ravioli and funnel 

cake with blueberry and gin compote, and then will 

have the opportunity to try recreating it under his 

watchful eye. 

Individual classes start from £95, while the ‘Cook 

with James’ class is priced at £350 per person. 

THE WOODSPEEN RESTAURANT AND 

COOKERY SCHOOL - NEWBURY, BERKSHIRE 

Run by acclaimed chef John Campbell, the 

Woodspeen cookery school runs a wide range of 

courses throughout the year. The courses are always 

based around seasonal ingredients cultivated from the 

school and restaurant's vegetable plot. Participants 

can even go out into the plots to pick their produce of 

choice. 

From simple summer dining to vegan focused 

courses, there is something for everyone and each 

course is very hands on, which helps develop the 

guest’s skills and learning. à 


Tours & Experiences | Ancient Towns | Stunning Countryside | Hidden Gems | Gourmet Dining 

For bookings & more information 

www.aroundandaboutbath.com 

08000 747949 

Proudly partnered with 

AAAB_HPH_TravelJournal_AW.indd 1 15/02/2019 09:58 

Explore the glorious historic 

West Dean Gardens 

Enjoy every season at West Dean in the heart of 

the South Downs. Relax and unwind with beautiful 

Lavant Valley views. 

West Dean Gardens, Chichester, West Sussex, PO18 0RX 

Tel: 01243 818210 

www.westdeangardens.org.uk

RICK STEIN’S COOKERY SCHOOL, 

PADSTOW, CORNWALL 

If you are a fan of seafood, you should head down 

to the delightful town of Padstow in Cornwall to 

Rick Stein's Cookery School. Whilst the focus is on 

the preparation and cooking of fish, guests can also 

participate in classes in Indian, Far Eastern, Italian and 

Mexican cuisine. 

The cookery school was initially started for the 

chefs working at the restaurant to undertake intense 

training in the preparation and cooking a fish and 

shellfish, but this was eventually offered out to the 

public who wanted to develop their skills in preparing 

seafood. 

From lobster thermidor to Singapore chilli crab, 

there are ten different workshops to choose from and 

courses start at just £95 for an evening session. 

THE NORTHCOTE COOKERY SCHOOL, 

BLACKBURN, LANCASHIRE 

Step into Northcote’s intimate Cookery School in the 

heart of Lancashire and you will soon feel at home. 

Whether you are just getting started when it comes to 

cooking or are a culinary whizz, a course at the Northcote 

Cookery School will provide you with the inspiration and 

tips that you need to create new dishes to enjoy at home. 

Choose from fundamentals such as preparing 

meat and fish dishes, how to create the ideal dinner 

party menu as well as more specialist courses such 

as advanced cookery techniques. You can even 

undertake a course with Northcote’s own acclaimed 

Executive Chef Lisa Goodwin-Allen learning to create 

three of Lisa’s favourite dishes. 

RAYMOND BLANC COOKERY SCHOOL, 

GREAT MILTON, OXFORDSHIRE 

The Raymond Blanc Cookery School at Belmond 

Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons hotel in Oxford runs 

a range of cookery courses in kitchens next door to 

those of its two-Michelin starred restaurant. Indeed, 

the two kitchens are only separated by a series of glass 

windows, so you'll feel like a pro no matter what level 

of skills you have. 

From half-day introductions to dinner party master 

classes, there are some great classes to choose from - 

many of which focus on recipes and dishes which have 

inspired Raymond Blanc himself. à 


Half day courses start from £185 per person and 

include all tuition, ingredients and refreshments, while 

full day courses are priced from £365, which also 

includes a working lunch. 

HH&CO BACKSTAGE AT THE LIME WOOD, 

NEW FOREST, HAMPSHIRE 

Drawing on Angela and Luke’s fresh, confident 

approach to cooking and eating and their signature 

home-cooked style, the Lime Wood’s cookery school 

HH&Co Backstage offers a unique, fun and informal 

way of learning how to cook delicious food! 

The courses, which includes Italian cuisine, 

seafood, pastry and how to cook that all-important 

roast are suitable for everyone from complete 

beginners to aspiring master chefs. Their hands-on, 

relaxed style aims to improve participants' culinary 

skills whilst giving the confidence and inspiration to go 

home and get cooking in their own kitchen. 

OUTCOOK COOKERY SCHOOL, ALNWICK, 

NORTHUMBERLAND 

Situated in the heart of Northumberland, the Outcook 

Home Cookery School takes an informal and fun 

approach towards cooking. From Mediterranean and 

South East Asian cuisine to fish and seafood, guests 

can either opt to take a regular course or to try a 

private bespoke session with one of the school’s chefs. 

Either way, you can expect to leave with a lasting 

appreciation of both the local Northumbrian produce 

and North East hospitality. 

THE COOKERY SCHOOL AT 

DAYLESFORD, COTSWOLDS NEAR KINGHAM, 

GLOUCESTERSHIRE 

From beginners looking to learn new skills to more 

confident cooks who are looking for more inspiration 

in their own kitchens, the Daylesford Cookery School 

offers a superb selection of courses that will whet any 

appetite. 

This unique place of culinary excellence is housed 

in a beautifully restored stone barn, surrounded by 

stunning Cotswold countryside and 2350 acres of 

working farmland. It will equip you with a range of 

techniques, recipes and principles to help you make 

the most of their delicious seasonal ingredients. u 


BLUE SKY 

THINKING 

Open Air Theatre 

From cliff tops to abbey ruins, witness world-class open-air 

theatre this summer at a range of iconic British locations 

Words | Felix Rowe

WHAT COULD 

BE MORE 

enchanting 

than witnessing 

live theatre set within one of 

the country’s most beautiful 

backdrops? Rugged cliff tops, 

sandy beaches, lidos, palace 

lawns, ancient abbey ruins and 

grand country houses – all play 

host to critically acclaimed, 

award-winning theatre over the 

summer. Ideal for all the family, 

simply bring a picnic and blanket, 

then relax in comfort with a 

glass of wine, while the troupe 

entertain you as the sun sets. 

Outdoor theatre brings you 

much closer to the action – 

crashing waves and occasional 

downpours only add to the 

drama, as the actors respond to 

heckles from seagulls or sheep. 

Countless productions pop 

up at jaw-dropping locations 

across the UK, offering 

everything from Shakespeare 

to slapstick, sometimes both at 

once. Perhaps unsurprisingly, 

A Midsummer Night’s Dream 

is a popular choice, with an 

array of interpretations to be 

experienced. 

What’s more, the admission 

price will often include pre-show 

entry to the garden or country 

house hosting the event. We 

challenge you to find a better way 

to spend a summer’s evening. So 

unpack your hamper, get comfy 

and let the show begin! à 

THE MINACK THEATRE 

PORTHCURNO, CORNWALL 

Arguably the Holy Grail of British 

outdoor theatre, you’ll be hard pushed 

to find a more dramatic setting to stage 

a performance. Literally perched on a 

cliff edge above the Atlantic in far west 

Cornwall, the Minack resembles the 

ruin of an ancient Greek amphitheatre. 

Though an entirely modern creation 

fashioned largely out of concrete, its 

story is no less fascinating. A gloriously 

eccentric lady, Rowena Cade, bought 

the remote headland for a mere £100 

in the 1920s, and swiftly organised a 

production of (yes) A Midsummer Night’s 

Dream. Following its success, Rowena 

sought a more permanent stage, and 

so in the early 1930s began to build 

the amphitheatre herself, enlisting the 

help of two gardeners. The Minack 

staged its first official performance, The 

Tempest, to glowing national reviews in 

1932. Rowena continued adding to the 

theatre throughout her life and could 

often be seen hand mixing concrete well 

into her 80s. Now, almost 90 years on 

from its first performance, the theatre 

continues to thrive, with a varied summer 

programme including Romeo & Juliet and 

Great Expectations. 

Box office: 01736 810181 

minack.com


REGENT’S PARK OPEN 

AIR THEATRE 

LONDON 

Spectacular, world-class theatre staged in 

a beautiful Royal Park in the heart of the 

capital. If that sounds tempting, then you’re 

in luck. Just minutes from Baker Street station, 

Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre offers the 

calibre of productions you would expect in the 

most prestigious West End theatres, only in a 

stunning outdoor setting. This summer offers a 

vibrant programme, with extended runs of the 

English National Opera’s Hansel and Gretel, 

A Midsummer Night’s Dream, as well as the 

Andrew Lloyd Webber and Tim Rice classic, 

Evita. As with the venue itself, these lavish, 

large-scale productions are designed to dazzle. 

Regardless of your show of choice, it’s bound 

to be a spectacle at Regent’s Park. There are 

also special relaxed, captioned and audio 

description performances on select dates to help 

enrich the experience if required. 

Box office: 0333 4003562 

openairtheatre.com 

GLAMIS CASTLE 

ANGUS 

Where better to witness ‘the Scottish Play’ than 

in the grounds of the historic Scottish castle 

that actually inspired it? Glamis Castle is a 

real feast for the senses. With a thousand-year 

history dating back to the real Macbeth, the 

current building is largely a seventeenth century 

creation, complete with imposing parapets 

and turrets. The Ancestral seat of the Earl 

and Countess of Strathmore and Kinghorne, 

Glamis is both the Queen Mother’s childhood 

home and birthplace of her daughter, Princess 

Margaret. On 16th July, The Three Inch Fools, 

a troupe of five actors and musicians take on 

two Shakespeare productions in the grounds. 

Sit back and enjoy an evening of Much Ado 

About Nothing and Macbeth itself (matinee 

performance). To get into the spirit, you can 

even take the ‘Macbeth Trail’ in the grounds. 

But, with no disrespect intended to the Bard, 

the real story of Glamis is perhaps even more 

intriguing. The castle’s colourful history 

encompasses several shady characters inducing 

the ‘Monster of Glamis’, Earl Beardie who 

played cards with the Devil, and the ‘White 

Lady’ – an apparition for whom a seat in the 

chapel still remains reserved to this day. 

Box office: Order online 

glamis-castle.co.uk 

© David Jensen 


ILLYRIA 

NATIONWIDE 

Another fantastic touring company is Illyria, 

which The Telegraph has rightly labeled ‘top 

notch outdoor theatre’. Wherever you find 

yourself across Britain this summer, you have a 

fairly good chance of catching a performance. 

Illyria will be popping up throughout Scotland, 

Wales and England in some truly wonderful 

locations. Fulham Palace, Glastonbury Abbey, 

Sandford Parks Lido, Arundel Castle, The 

Lake District, Gordon Castle Walled Garden 

(Scotland), Drum Castle (Scotland) – the list 

goes on. This year’s programme really does have 

something for everyone, with performances of 

Ali Baba and the Forty Thieves, Shakespeare’s 

The Tempest and Mary Shelley’s Frankenstein 

bound to set the country alight. 

illyria.co.uk 

© Gordon Scammell 


© National Trust Images / David Watson

MIRACLE THEATRE 

ACROSS THE SOUTH WEST 

Of course, a stunning venue is something to 

behold in itself, but it’s the touring companies 

putting on the shows that really make them come 

alive. A prime example is Cornwall’s Miracle 

Theatre, which celebrates its 40th anniversary 

this year with a tour of A Perfect World from June 

to August across the South West. The Minack is 

just one of many staggering and unusual venues 

where you can witness the action, from beaches to 

gardens. Some others include a Neolithic henge in 

Dorset (Maumbury Rings); a subtropical garden 

amphitheatre by the Helford River (Trebah); a cliff 

overlooking the Jurassic Coast (Kimmeridge Bay); 

various locations on the Isles of Scilly; and several 

Cornish castles (Bude, Launceston, Restormel 

and St Mawes). To make the St Mawes Castle 

performance even more memorable, indulge in the 

‘Showboat’ package, taking a specially charted 

ferry from neighbouring Falmouth. 

miracletheatre.co.uk 

© National Trust Images / James Dobson 

NATIONAL TRUST 

VARIOUS LOCATIONS 

Smallhythe Place is but one of countless 

National Trust properties nationwide, from 

the grand to the snug, that regularly hosts 

open-air performances. Whether you hanker 

for a classic such as Wuthering Heights, or 

perhaps something a little more contemporary 

like Gangsta Granny, you’re well catered for. 

Many, such as Scotney Castle, offer a VIP 

theatre experience, which includes a welcome 

drink, as well as a mezze platter to sup on and 

a tub of artisan ice cream for the interval – all 

to be enjoyed in style and comfort in the VIP 

area. What’s more, children are welcome and 

under-fives go free. Why not experience Austen 

as it should be, in the grounds of a grand stately 

home like Attingham Park in Shrewsbury; or 

laugh along to Wind in the Willows in a country 

pile worthy of Toad Hall. Visit the National Trust 

website to find a performance near you. 


SMALLHYTHE PLACE 

KENT 

On a smaller scale, though no less enchanting, 

is Smallhythe Place in Tenterden, Kent. In fact 

its intimate setting only adds to its charm. 

Managed by the National Trust, Smallhythe 

Place is a beautifully preserved timberframed 

cottage, perhaps dating from the 

late fourteenth century. It was once home to 

the eminent Victorian Shakespearian actress 

Ellen Terry, and her daughter created the 

‘Barn Theatre’ in the seventeenth century 

thatched barn in her honour. Still going strong 

today, it is complemented by several open-air 

performances in the beautifully-kept gardens. 

The Winter’s Tale is probably the last thing 

you’d expect to see in the height of summer, 

but this adaptation of Shakespeare’s classic 

by Changeling (13th July) is one not to miss, 

with the intriguing promise of ‘just a hint of 

ABBA’ surely worth investigation alone. Other 

summer open-air performances include Alice 

in Wonderland (7th August) and Sense and 

Sensibility (15th August). Arrive early to enjoy a 

pre-show evening picnic in the gardens. 


/smallhythe-place 

© National Trust Images / David Levenson 



BRITISH TRAVEL JOURNAL CROSSWORD 02 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The first twenty correct crosswords received will be rewarded with a free gift of 

Newby Teas - simply send your completed crossword (or the answers) with your 

choice of Moroccan Mint, Jasmine Blossom, Earl Grey or English Breakfast tea, 

and your postal address, by post to British Travel Journal, Mitchell House, Brook 

Avenue, Warsash, Southampton, Hampshire, SO31 9HP, 

or email the answers to crossword@britishtraveljournal.com 

 

 

 

ACROSS 

DOWN 

1 Stornoway castle (4) 

2 Outgoing type (9) 

4 As "Titanic" was supposed 

3 DNA collectors (5) 

to be (10) 

4 Still in R&D (8) 

9 Found between Dover and Calais (6) 5 Locale of Dawyck Botanic Garden (5) 

10 One way to buy (2,6) 

6 Free (2-4) 

11 Like Glyndebourne's 

7 Writer --- Dumas (9) 

auditorium (9-6) 

8 Jazz singer Cleo (5) 

12 Christmas Dancer? (8) 

13 Business as usual (9) 

15 Chester's Roman name (4) 14 X-ray dose (3) 

18 What a rocker aspires to be (4) 16 Change aviator in turbulence (9) 

19 What futile complaints fall on (4,4) 17 Park home to the Princess Royal (8) 

21 Disorganised cartel bakes fare for 20 Pour out freely (6) 

an early bite (9,6) 

22 Joint Hay Festival creator, with 

25 Felicity Kendal's birth borough (8) Norman and Peter Florence (5) 

26 Anglo-Saxon kingdom stretching 23 Sudden burst of applause (5) 

from Offa's Dyke to East Anglia (6) 24 Reading has a museum 

27 Lord's-based cricket club (10) dedicated to this kind of life (5) 

28 King's ---, base for visiting 

Sandringham (4) 

Answers will be printed in the Autumn Issue out 29 August 

ANSWERS TO CROSSWORD 01 

ACROSS: 1 Smith 4 Thrashers 10 Tintagel 11 Newark 12 Trossachs 13 Using 

15 Day-glo 17 Monmouth 19 Psalmody 21 Carrot 22 Nancy, 24 Arresting 27 

Embryo 28 Identity 29 Gypsy moth 30 Orlop. DOWN: 2 Main roads 3 Totes 

5 Holkham 6 Anne 7 Hawksmoor 8 Reran 9 Iguanodon 14 Snickered 16 Gold 

cards 18 Two and two 20 Yorkist 23 Armoy 25 Tutor 26 Holm. 

FOR YOUR JOURNEY 

Books, apps, travel gadgets and crossword 


JOURNAL 

WE LOVE 

SPRING 2019 | ISSUE 01 


IN THE STARS 

GASTRONOMIC DELIGHTS AND A 

CONSTELLATION OF MICHELIN STARS 

JUST WAITING TO BE EXPLORED 

DREAM ESCAPE 

DISCOVER THE REMARKABLE ISLANDS 

AND BREATHTAKING LANDSCAPES 

OF ORKNEY AND THE OUTER HEBRIDES 

£5.00 


Distinguished artist Philip Hughes 

records eleven iconic walks across 

the length and breadth of Britain, 

from Allt Coire Pheiginn in Scotland 

to Zennor Head in Cornwall. 

£15.99, amazon.co.uk 

Easy, inspiring and energising, new 

meditation app that helps you to 

be more relaxed and present in life 

so you can find and enjoy success 

and happiness everywhere you go. 

freemindhub.com 

Featuring a totally waterproof zip, 

drop it in the sea and it floats! Perfect 

for paddle boarding adventures, 

picnics, days at the beach, festivals, 

travelling and camping trips! 

£159.95, redoriginal.com 

Download and read British Travel 

Journal on your tablet or mobile 

device anytime, and anywhere. Available 

on apple, google play, and amazon. 

Use the QR code above 

britishtraveljournal/subscribe 


Creative | Connected | People 

Exclusive Travel Experiences in the UK & Ireland 

www.dreamescape.co.uk 

enquiries@dreamescape.co.uk | 0845 260 1085

British Travel Journal | Summer 2019

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

Delete template?

Save as template?