British Travel Journal | Autumn 2019

BRITISH TRAVEL 

JOURNAL 

AUTUMN 2019 | ISSUE 03 

BritishTravelJournal.com 

CITY | COAST | COUNTRY 

take a 

journey 

EDINBURGH TO THE 

CALEDONIAN FOREST 

taste a 

destination 

AUTUMN FORAGING 

HOLIDAYS 

Interview 

raymond blanc 

CELEBRATES TWO BIG 

MILESTONES THIS YEAR 

£5.00 

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for two in 

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EVENTS ■ IDYLLIC DESTINATIONS ■ MICHELIN STAR RESTAURANTS ■ LUXURY HOTELS ■ NEW EXPERIENCES

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CHEWTON GLEN, HAMPSHIRE 

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THE NEW TR ADITI O N 

RESEIGH FOOKS BRAND AND PACKAGING DESIGN CLIENT: NOBLE ISLE STAGE 3 29th June 2011 

EDITOR’S LETTER 

C O N T R I B U T I O N S 


JOURNAL 


WELCOME 

EDITORS 

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jessica Way 

FEATURES EDITOR Samantha Rutherford 

CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Angela Harding 

EXPERT CONTRIBUTORS 

FOOD & DRINK Chantal Borciani 

ARTS & CULTURE Melanie Abrams 

HISTORY & HERITAGE Robin Glover 

SHOPPING & LIFESTYLE Emma Johnson 

DESTINATION SPECIALIST Adrian Mourby 

TRAVEL & ADVENTURE Max Wooldridge 

OUTDOORS & EVENTS Emma Harrison 

FRONT COVER IMAGE 

Stag at Alladale Wilderness Reserve's 

Glen Mohr, in the Caledonian Forest 

Read our article, page 94 

PUBLISHED BY 

CONTISTA MEDIA 

Mitchell House, Brook Avenue, Warsash, 

Southampton, SO31 9HP 

MAIN SWITCHBOARD 01489 660680 

contistamedia.co.uk 

KEEP IN TOUCH 

BritishTravelJournal 

WHEN I FIRST STARTED my role 

as Editor, knowing I would be 

covering entirely British travel 

content, and giving up the more 

exotic far-flung destinations, (which today seem to 

dominate Instagram), I did wonder if there would 

be enough to fill each issue from our relatively small 

island. But as it turned out, I needn’t have feared! 

As I hope this issue once again shows, we are 

spoiled for choice living in the British Isles. There are 

so many wonderful destinations to visit, whether on 

a staycation or visiting from overseas, and I hope our magazine will inspire you to extend 

your holiday - or book another! 

Highlights this issue include a wonderful 48 hours in Alderney, p72, an epic journey 

through the heart of Scotland, from Edinburgh to the Caledonian Forest p83, and finding 

utter bliss at the new idyllic riverside luxury estate, Monkey Island, near Bray, p66. 

A growing trend for environmental awareness and sustainability within travel runs 

through our Autumn issue, from a leather brand using goat skins (that would otherwise 

have been discarded) to create beautiful and unique travel accessories, p45, to a 

hotel conservation project aiming to restore the ecology of Scotland, p94 - and an 

announcement for the UK’s first-ever vegan hotel, p55. 

Looking to join in the fun? Well, if there were ever a Wacky Olympics the UK would 

top the medals every time, as our selection of weird and wonderful events, p22, reveals. 

We go behind-the-scenes at Goodwood ahead of the vintage Revival p32 and feature a 

fantastic selection of world-class outdoor art, p48. 

We interview top chef, Raymond Blanc as he celebrates two milestones this year – his 

70th birthday and the 35th anniversary of his hotel-restaurant, Belmond Le Manoir aux 

Quat’Saisons, p36, get thirsty for English Sparkling Wine, p26, and find the best places 

in the UK to go foraging, p56. 

Together with our regular Travel News, p9, Cultural Agenda, p13 and Luxury Stays 

p62, I hope this issue of British Travel Journal continues to enhance your upcoming travel 

plans – and that you have a wonderful, and memorable, autumn! u 

BTravelJournal 

PROUD TO BE IN PARTNERSHIP WITH 

stage 3 - B&W detailed logo 

Jessica x 

Contista Media Ltd cannot accept responsibility for 

unsolicited submissions, manuscripts and photographs. 

While every care is taken prices and details are subject to 

change and Contista Media Ltd take no responsibility for 

omissions or errors. We reserve the right to publish 

and edit any letters. All rights reserved. 

Jessica Way, Editor-In-Chief 

Jessica@britishtraveljournal.com 

BritishTravelJournal.com 3

JOIN US BY THE SEA AND LET THE 

ATLANTIC AIR FILL YOUR LUNGS 

THEN EXHALE A NEWLY REVIVED YOU 

RELAX WITH AN AUTUMN SPA BREAK AT SAUNTON 

What better way to start the week than an escape to the North Devon 

coast with a two-night midweek spa break? 

Enjoy a two-night midweek stay inclusive of: 

A 60-minute Source treatment (Limited edition autumn seasonal treatments available) 

Full continental or English breakfast • Dinner on one evening • Full use of our hotel facilities 

Daily fitness classes • 1.5 hours use of our Thermal Suite each day 

from £245pp * 

01271 890212 | reservations@sauntonsands.com | sauntonsands.co.uk | 

*Price based on a Cosy Room, upgrades available

CONTENTS 


36 

09 

32 

C O M P E T I T I O N 

43 WIN A 

LUXURY 

BREAK FOR TWO... 

Don't miss your chance 

to win a luxury two night 

stay (for two people) in 

Exeter. Prize includes 

£150 to spend, dinner 

at Carluccio’s, an Exeter 

Cookery School course, 

a Souvenir picture of 

Exeter at Christmas, a 

hamper of local produce 

and much more! 

JOTTINGS 

09 

TRAVEL NEWS 

A look at what’s new, and travel 

noteworthy, in the British Isles. 

CULTURAL AGENDA 

13 Dates for your diary of things you 

don’t want to miss out on this autumn. 

DEFYING GRAVITY 

20 Spotlight on composer, and three 

times Oscar winner, Stephen Schwartz. 

10 OF THE BEST WACKY 

22 BRITISH EVENTS 

Mad, silly or just a bit different, if there ever 

were a Wacky Olympics, the UK would top the 

medals table every time, as this selection of 

weird and wonderful events reveals. 

FEATURES 

26 

IN SEARCH OF SPARKLING WINE 

English Sparkling Wine is a fizzing 

success. We take a look at the brands and 

which wineries to visit. 

REVIVAL READY: BEHIND THE 

32 SCENES AT GOODWOOD 

A creative hive of vintage style, racing 

memorabilia and an infectious party 

atmosphere. 

INTERVIEW WITH 

36 RAYMOND BLANC 

Top chef celebrates two milestones 

this year – his 70th birthday and the 35th 

anniversary of his hotel-restaurant, Belmond 

Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons. à 


E D I T O R 

L O V E S 

Briggs & Riley Sympatico Plum Case, 

£449 from John Lewis and Harrods 

briggs-riley.com 

83 

LIFESTYLE 

45 

BEHIND THE BRAND 

We meet the founders of leather brand 

Billy Tannery who use goat skins that would 

otherwise have been discarded to create 

beautiful and unique bags and accessories. 

OUTDOOR ART 

48 A fantastic selection of world-class 

art in sculpture parks, beaches and gardens 

which makes for a scintillating experience. 

55 VICTUALS 

Discover what’s new in the scene 

of British hospitality, Michelin-star chefs, 

restaurants, hotels and spas. 

TOP PLACES FOR FORAGING 

56 From spectacular coastlines to country 

bounds, where to discover Britain’s wild larder. 

15 LUXURY STAYS FOR LARGE 

62 GROUPS 

Stay in a beautiful historic manor house, 

private estate lodge, or exquisite mansion, 

large enough to cater for the entire family. 

ITINERARIES 

66 

MONKEY ISLAND 

Discover riverside delights at Monkey 

Island Estate near Bray, an island idyll, less 

than an hour from London. 

48 HOURS IN ALDERNEY 

72 From a Roman fort to uncrowded 

beaches, sense the magic in Alderney, a warm, 

peaceful and relaxing island escape. 

TAKE A JOURNEY 

83 Take a journey with us through the 

heart of Scotland, starting in the buzzing 

capital of Edinburgh, visiting Big Tree Country 

before reaching Inverness, The Highlands and 

last but by no means least, the Caledonian Forest. 

REGULARS 

44 SUBSCRIBE 

Subscribe to British Travel Journal 

today and receive the ultimate in travel size 

luxury toiletries - worth £20! 

FOR YOUR JOURNEY 

98 Latest books, travel gadgets and our 

British travel inspired crossword. 

56 

GIFT TO ALL 

SUBSCRIBERS! 

See page 44 for more or visit: 

britishtraveljournal.com 

/subscribe 

44 

6 BritishTravelJournal.com

DISCOVER MORE AT 

On Tresco, 28 miles off the Cornish coast, autumn is all about 

blustery walks on deserted beaches, steaming mugs of cocoa by the 

log burner, and long days spent in the warmth of the Spa. 

Discover time to be this autumn. 

TRESCO.CO.UK/ 

AUTUMN 

SPA & WELLBEING | ACCOMMODATION | ABBEY GARDEN | GALLERY | DINING

THE GREAT BRITISH ESCAPE! 

STOKE PARK 

Stoke Park is a luxury 5 AA Red Star Hotel, Spa and Country Club set within 300 

acres of beautiful parkland and offers world-class sporting and leisure facilities. 

FACILITIES INCLUDE: 

• 49 Bedrooms and Suites 

• Award winning Spa 

• 27 hole Championship Golf 

Course 

• David Leadbetter Golf Academy 

• 3 Restaurants and Bars, including 

Humphry’s (3 AA Rosettes) 

• 13 Tennis Courts (indoor, grass 

and artificial clay) 

• 2 Padel Courts 

• Indoor Pool 

• State-of-the-art Gym with Fitness, 

Hot Yoga and Spinning Studios 

hosting up to 50 classes per week 

• Tinies Kids Club and Crèche 

• Games Room 

• Playground 

For Hotel Reservations please call 01753 717171 or email reservations@stokepark.com 

Stoke Park, Park Road, Stoke Poges, Buckinghamshire SL2 4PG | www.stokepark.com

TRAVEL NEWS 

W H A T ' S N E W 

Destinations | Renovations | Launches | Celebrations 

ROCK AND ROLL 

The first ever Hard Rock Hotel in the UK, 

the original birthplace of the franchise, 

has opened on the corner of Oxford Street. 

hardrockhotels.com/london 

DISCOVER THE UK’S NEWEST UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE 

Jodrell Bank Observatory in Cheshire has been granted the prestigious ‘UNESCO World 

Heritage Site’ status, becoming the 32nd member of a prestigious UK list to include 

Stonehenge, the city of Bath, Blenheim Palace, Hadrian’s Wall and the Tower of London. 

The home of the Lovell Telescope, the world’s third largest steerable radio telescope, Jodrell 

Bank is a working scientific observatory and a leading tourist attraction. First used to track 

the Soviet Union’s Sputnik satellite – the world’s first artificial satellite – Jodrell now operates 

the UK’s national e-MERLIN radio telescope and is the headquarters of the Square Kilometre 

Array – a ground-breaking project to build the world’s biggest telescope. jodrellbank.net 

SURF THE NEW WAVE 

Launching first in Bristol, 'The Wave' pool 

offers consistent safe waves using Wavegarden 

technology, (with over 1,000 waves per hour!) 

where everyone can safely surf and bodyboard. 

thewave.com 

FOR THE JOURNEY 

WE LOVE 

FEELING GOOD AGAIN 

Following a recent multi-million-pound 

investment and transformation into a luxury 

resort, St Michaels Falmouth in Cornwall is proud 

to unveil a spectacular new destination spa. 

stmichaelsresort.com 

TRYING SOMETHING NEW 

Nine of England's National Parks (there's 15 in total) 

are offering unique experience days, from climbing 

in the Peak District to learning to sail on the watery 

wonderland of the Broads National Park. 

nationalparkexperiences.co.uk 

Travelling with just 

carry-on luggage, with 

well thought-out features, 

there are no long waits 

at check-in, no lines at 

baggage claim, and no 

careless packing. (£350) 

victorinox.com 


TRAVEL NEWS 

N E W ! 

IMAGE COURTESY OF ENGLISH HERITAGE © JIM HOLDEN 

CASTLE HOWARD OPENS 

A NEW SECRET ISLAND 

One of Britain's finest stately homes, in 

York, North Yorkshire, has opened a 

new adventure playground, Skelf Island, 

where the Skelves live! skelfisland.co.uk 

DURHAM CATHEDRAL'S 

CENTRAL TOWER REOPENS 

You can now enjoy spectacular views 

of the historic city of Durham and the 

surrounding countryside by climbing the 

tower's 325 steps. durhamcathedral.co.uk 

NEW FOOTBRIDGE RESTORES LOST CORNISH CROSSING 

For the first time in more than 500 years, the two separated halves of Tintagel Castle 

will be reunited thanks to a daring new £5m footbridge unveiled by English Heritage, 

allowing visitors to walk in the footsteps of the medieval inhabitants of the Cornish 

castle – inextricably linked with the legend of King Arthur – and enjoy spectacular 

coastal views not seen since the Middle Ages. Spanning a 190-foot gorge and with a 

gasp-inducing gap in the middle, the bridge follows the line of the original route – a 

narrow strip of land, long lost to erosion – between the 13th-century gatehouse on the 

mainland and the courtyard on the jagged headland or island jutting into the sea. So 

significant was this historic crossing that it gave rise to the place’s name, the Cornish Din 

Tagell meaning “the Fortress of the Narrow Entrance”. english-heritage.org.uk/tintagel 

INSTAGRAM HIGHLIGHT 

"Tide coming in around the beguiling 

Victorian Fort Houmet Herbé - such a 

peaceful spot. Swipe to see the video!..." 

instagram.com/britishtraveljournal 

#britishtraveljournal 

THE GRANTLEY 

This new five-star luxury country resort hotel 

and spa is set in a grand 17th-century house on 

its own island! Situated between the elegant 

Yorkshire towns of Ripon and Harrogate. 

grantleyhall.co.uk 

NESS WALK 

On the banks of the beautiful River Ness, originally 

a 19th century house, Ness Walk has opened 

as new five-star hotel, the epitome of luxurious 

Scottish living, shining a spotlight on Inverness. 

nesswalk.com 

See also 

page 72 


EXPERIENCE MORE... 

...CITY BREAKS 

We’ve selected and approved 50 of the best 

independently owned luxury hotels and spas 

around Britain for you to enjoy. 

Call FREEPHONE 0808 250 3121 to request your 

free directory or visit prideofbritainhotels.com 

THE ART OF GREA T HOSPIT ALITY

Tulip Festival Mid 

April to early May 

Ancient Castle, Stately Home & Gardens 

for more details, call 01903 882173 

or visit www.arundelcastle.org

CULTURAL AGENDA 

H O T T H I S S E A S O N 

Exhibitions | Museums | Galleries | Shows 

IMAGES © 2018 FOCUS FEATURES LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED 

Words | Melanie Abrams 

WHAT WE'RE WATCHING 

Downton Abbey 

13 SEPTEMBER 2019 

It’s been four years since Mr Carson, the butler, 

closed Downton Abbey’s heavy door. Now, at last, 

the Crawley family and their servants are back – and 

expecting a visit from King George V and Queen 

Mary in 1927. Among the balls, barbed one-liners 

and magnificent parade, there’s a dilemma: 

will Lady Mary finally leave the palatial nest? 

focusfeatures.com 

à 


ZIZI STRALLEN AS MARY POPPINS AND CHARLIE STEMP AS BERT © SEAMUS RYAN 

SIMON ANNAND: DAVID TENNANT - THE RIVALS 

SIMON ANNAND: SHEILA ATIM, 

GIRL FROM THE NORTH COUNTRY 

WHAT WE’RE SEEING 

Antony Gormley 

21 SEPTEMBER-03 DECEMBER 2019 

Antony Gormley’s statues have become British 

landmarks. Consider the steel Angel of the 

North embracing Gateshead or Winchester 

Cathedral’s contemplative figure in its crypt. 

This autumn, the Royal Academy of Arts has a 

sweeping retrospective from the late 1970s to 

date. Innovative works include an Iron Baby in the 

courtyard and a seawater and clay installation. 

royalacademy.org.uk 

George IV: Art and Spectacle 

15 NOVEMBER 2019-03 MAY 2020 

George IV is the centre of attention again as the 

Queen’s Gallery celebrates his flamboyant style 

through his extensive art collection. Formed whilst 

Prince Regent from 1811 and king from 1820 to 

1830, George IV acquired 2,917 masterpieces 

from paintings to porcelain. 

rct.uk/visit/the-queens-gallerybuckingham-palace 

Mary Poppins 

13 NOVEMBER-29 MARCH 2020 

PREVIEWS FROM 23 OCTOBER 

Supercalifragilisticexpialidocious! Mary Poppins 

lands on stage at the Prince Edward Theatre 

this autumn. Zizi Strallen plays the nanny who 

changes the Banks family with a spoonful of 

sugar and more. Watch out for the Bird Woman 

– she is Downtowns' singer, Petula Clark, back 

on a West End stage for the first time in 20 years. 

marypoppinsonstage.co.uk 

Magic 

19 OCTOBER 2019–19 APRIL 2020 

An ambitious exhibition – exploring magic through 

different cultures and over 200 objects. Discover 

Guatemala’s devilish, drunken god, Maximón, 

who people ask for protection or a husband to the 

drum and rattle used locally for healing. For other 

spiritual experiences, head to nearby Stonehenge 

and Stanton Drew Circles and Cove. 

bristolmuseums.org.uk 

Simon Annand: The Half 

07 SEPTEMBER 2019-01 FEBRUARY 2020 

This new photography exhibition by one of the 

UK’s leading portrait photographers, Simon 

Annand, will showcase the rare and unseen 

privacy backstage actors experience in the half 

hour period before they hit the stage. The Half 

will open at the Lawrence Batley Theatre – a new 

multi-arts organisation in Huddersfield. Simon 

has photographed the most recognisable faces 

of stage, including Cate Blanchett, Judi Dench, 

Daniel Craig and Jude Law. In addition, the 

exhibition will showcase a brand-new selection of 

photographs that have never been seen before, 

of celebrities such as Gillian Anderson, Phoebe 

Waller-Bridge, Ruth Negga and many more. 

thelbt.org 

Turner Prize 

28 SEPTEMBER 2019-12 JANUARY 2010 

What better gallery to host the Turner Prize than 

the Turner Contemporary, both named after the 


18 STAFFORD TERRACE, HALLWAY © THE ROYAL BOROUGH OF KENSINGTON AND CHELSEA/JUSTIN BARTON 

MAGIC: MUD MASKS FROM THE ASARO PEOPLE OF 

THE EASTERN HIGHLANDS, PAPUA NEW GUINEA 

MAGIC: TAWERET AMULET. A STANDING HIPPOPOTAMUS 

WITH A CROCODILE'S HEAD AND TAIL, EGYPT 

BFI LONDON FILM FESTIVAL © 2018 GETTY IMAGES 

ANTONY GORMLEY 

18th century painter, JMW Turner? 

In Margate, where the artist lived, this is the 

sixth year the Tate has held the 35 year old prize 

outside London. The exhibition of work by the 

shortlisted artists – Lawrence Abu Hamdan, 

Helen Cammock, Oscar Murillo and Tai Shani 

– gives a snapshot of contemporary art today 

with the winner announced on 3 December. 

turnercontemporary.org; tate.org.uk 

Death in Venice 

21 NOVEMBER-06 DECEMBER 2019 

Benjamin Britten’s last opera has a new 

production at the Royal Opera House. 

Tenor, Mark Padmore and bass-baritone, 

Gerald Finlay star in this chilling opera, first 

performed in 1973. Based on Thomas Mann’s 

novella of a blocked writer obsessed with 

youth, Death in Venice was also a 1971 Luchino 

Visconti film, starring Dirk Bogarde. 

roh.org.uk/productions/death-invenice-by-david-mcvicar 

WHAT WE’RE DISCOVERING 

18 Stafford Terrace 

2 FOR 1 TICKET OFFER UNTIL 6 OCTOBER 

From 1875, 18 Stafford Terrace was the 

home of Victorian illustrator Edward Linley 

Sambourne and his family and provides a rare 

example of what was known as an 'Aesthetic 

interior' or 'House Beautiful' style. The 

Aesthetic Movement of the late nineteenth 

century advocated the use of foreign or 'exotic' 

influences in the decoration of the home. This 

can be seen by the various Japanese, Middle- 

Eastern and Chinese objects throughout the 

Sambournes' home, housed alongside the 

artist’s collection of drawings and photographs. 

rbkc.gov.uk/subsites/museums.aspx 

Apsley House 

01 SEPTEMBER-03 NOVEMBER 2019 

Home to the Dukes of Wellington since 1807. 

An exhibition to 3 November reveals an intimate 

take on the first duke. 

english-heritage.org.uk 

London Design Festival 

14-22 SEPTEMBER 2019 

A fantastic event, now in its 17th year, which brings 

together designers from across the globe and 

demonstrates the capital’s position as a powerhouse 

for the creative industries. 

londondesignfestival.com 

BFI London Film Festival 

02 -13 October 2019 

Red carpets are rolling out across the capital as the 

BFI London Film Festival unveils upcoming films. 

Modern day whodunnit, Knives Out starring Daniel 

Craig pinpoints its’ villain on 8 October. Whereas 

Robert de Niro and Al Pacino unite on screen for 

Martin Scorsese’s The Irishman on 13 October, 

charting the American labour union leader, Jimmy 

Hoffa’s disappearance. Documentaries and short 

films complement the drama. Experiment with 

venues like the arts hub, Rich Mix in Shoreditch, 

home to comedy, music and more as well as film. 

bfi.org.uk/lff 


EMANUEL GAT – WORKS 

WHAT WE'RE BOOKING 

My Beautiful Laundrette 

20 SEPTEMBER-09 NOVEMBER 

The story of a gay British-Pakistani boy growing 

up in 1980s London, turned My Beautiful 

Laundrette into that decade’s seminal film. 

Now it is having a stage reboot across northern 

theatres, starting at Leicester’s Curve with 

original music composed by 80s pop duo, the 

Pet Shop Boys. Spiky, funny and ambiguous, 

the film turned Daniel Day Lewis into a star 

alongside the writer, Hanif Kureishi, who is also 

penning this play. 

curveonline.co.uk 

Emanuel Gat – Works 

09 NOVEMBER–12 NOVEMBER 2019 

Israeli choreographers like Hofesh Shechter are 

top dance talents right now. So after an eight 

year hiatus, the UK return of Emanuel Gat’s 

dance company to Manchester and London is 

timely. The feisty six piece bill includes a work 

with music also by Gat. 

thelowry.com; sadlerswells.com 

MY BEAUTIFUL LAUNDRETTE JONNY FINES 

AS JOHNNY & OMAR MALIK AS OMAR 

LAURIE KYNASTON AS NICOLAS 

AND JOHN LIGHT AS PIERRE 

The Son 

24 AUGUST-02 NOVEMBER 2019 

The Son at the Duke of York’s theatre deals 

with a hot topic by a hot writer – as Frenchman 

Florian Zeller explores how divorced parents 

deal with their son’s emotional unravelling 

and its turbulent effects on the family. Like in 

real life there are no easy answers and Zeller 

presents it as it painfully is. 

duke-of-yorks.theatre-tickets.com 

IMAGES © JULIA GAT/MARC BRENNER 


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CLIVEDEN LITERARY FESTIVAL 

FOOD ROCKS 

ELDRIDGE CLEAVER AND HIS WIFE JACQUES, PART 

OF THE NEW 2019 SPOTLIGHT AT FRIEZE MASTERS 

JONAS BROTHERS, JOE, KEVIN AND NICK 

WHERE WE’RE PARTYING 

Concours of Elegance 

06 SEPTEMBER-08 SEPTEMBER 2019 

Don a Brioni blazer or Erdem frock for the 

vintage car extravaganza, Concours of Elegance 

at Hampton Court Palace. As Silver Ghosts, 

1920s sports cars and other rare models 

chug past, there’s an unsettling throwback 

vs modern clash. For pure contemporary 

adventure, inspect today’s supercars or try 

A. Lange & Söhne’s sleek watches for style. 

concoursofelegance.co.uk 

Frieze London 

03 OCTOBER-06 OCTOBER 2019 

The glittering art world descends on Regent’s 

Park this October as Frieze fever spreads across 

London. Over 160 galleries from 36 countries 

will showcase their top notch contemporary 

talent. Whilst neighbouring Frieze Masters 

offers the classic complement with Old Master 

oils, ancient artefacts and more. 

frieze.com/fairs/frieze-london 

CONCOURS OF ELEGANCE 

Cliveden Literary Festival 


Notorious as the backdrop to the 1960s 

Profumo politico-sex scandal, Cliveden House has 

a history of literary and political debate – with 

Rudyard Kipling, Winston Churchill among the 

house’s guests. Today’s speakers are equally agendasetting 

– from Ben Okri to Jacob Rees-Mogg. 

clivedenliteraryfestival.org 

Food Rocks 


For a local culinary experience, head to Lyme 

Regis in Dorset for Food Rocks. Curated by 

founder and fabled chef, Mark Hix, there are 

demos by top chefs, cocktail masterclasses and 

stalls with the region’s finest produce – gourmet 

steak sourced from local herds, say. Save space 

for the evening feasts. Nearby Town Mill is 

worth a detour – with local work in galleries and 

shops around a cobbled courtyard. 

hixrestaurants.co.uk 

WHAT WE'RE LISTENING TO 

Happiness Begins 

29 JANUARY 2020-06 FEBRUARY 2020 

This year, we can’t get enough of the reunited 

Jonas Brothers, Joe, Kevin and Nick. Whether 

Joe’s two weddings to Game of Thrones’ 

Sophie Turner or their upbeat new album, 

Happiness Begins, released over the summer. 

Our favourite tracks are Sucker for the edgier 

rhythms and dance-y, Only Human. Roll on 

2020 – as they perform live nationwide. 

jonasbrothers.com 

WHAT'S NEW? 

Sutton Hoo 

NEW NATIONAL TRUST SITE NOW OPEN! 

Sutton Hoo, near Woodbridge in Suffolk, is one 

of the most important archaeological sites in 

the world and the 7th-century burial mounds, 

excavated from the late 1930s onwards, have 

revealed items including the iconic Sutton 


SUTTON HOO HELMET AND SHIP SCULPTURE 

BOOGIE WALL 

Hoo helmet that have helped shape our 

understanding of the origins of English history. 

This awe-inspiring Anglo-Saxon royal burial site 

has been through an incredible transformation, 

thanks to a £4 million investment – the biggest 

investment the National Trust has ever made! 

The experience for visitors to the site is to bring 

the story of a spectacular King’s ship burial 

and his treasures to life. Visitors are greeted in 

the Courtyard with a full-size, 27-metre long 

sculpture representing the Anglo-Saxon ship 

buried there, whilst the Exhibition Hall and 

Tranmer House, the former home of Edith 

Pretty, offer dramatic new displays, installations 

and immersive experiences. There's also River 

View walking trail, a new-look King's River Café 

and the brand new Keepers' Café. Later this 

autumn, the final part of the project will include 

a 17-metre high observation tower, offering 

birds-eye views across the Royal Burial Ground 

to the wider landscape. 

nationaltrust.org.uk/sutton-hoo 

Tintagel Bridge 

BRIDGING THE GAP! 

As featured in our Travel News, p10, Tintagel 

Castle, North Cornwall, is one of the most 

spectacular historic sites in Britain. But the path 

to the castle has long been challenging, with over a 

hundred steps winding towards to the cliff-top 

ruins. So they've built a new footbridge, recreating 

the historic crossing from the mainland, over the 

190-metre drop between the two cliffs. 

english-heritage.org.uk 

Boogie Wall 

NEW ALL-FEMALE FOCUSED GALLERY 

Beginning with an explosive group show Notre 

Dame / Our Lady (4 October – 27 October) 

Boogie Wall will launch during Frieze, creating a 

platform for innovative contemporary art, where 

artists can push the boundaries of their mediums, 

experiment new ideas to highlight the constant 

change in cultures and society. 

boogie-wall.com 

WHAT WE'RE READING 

English Gardens 

01 OCTOBER 2019 

Leafing through Rizzoli’s new book on 

English Gardens by Kathryn Bradley-Hole is 

a colourful way to find an alternative Britain. 

Head to Salisbury for Heale House’s Japanese 

garden, say, or the Isles of Scilly for Tresco 

Abbey’s subtropical setting. The useful visitor’s 

information and map explains where to go 

when as some of these exotic gardens open on 

certain days, by appointment or even for B&B. 

rizzoliusa.com 


SPECIAL FEATURE 

DEFYING GRAVITY 

Spotlight on composer Stephen Schwartz 

PICTURED LEFT-RIGHT: STEPHEN SCHWARTZ; PRINCE OF EGYPT CAST; WICKED'S ALISTAIR BRAMMER 

(FIYERO) AND NIKKI BENTLEY (ELPHABA) IMAGES © DWA LLC/ DARRENBELL/MATT CROCKETT 

BY 1976, WHEN HE WAS JUST 28 YEARS OLD, Stephen 

Schwartz had three hit musicals playing side by side on 

Broadway – Godspell, Pippin and The Magic Show. That’s 

a rare achievement, although he had actually made his 

Broadway debut ahead of all of them in 1969 when he was only 21, 

with a song he contributed to a play called Butterflies Are Free. 

He’s come a long way since then, including three Oscar wins for 

his film work, but there was a long gap between that early wave 

of Broadway successes in the mid-1970's before he had another 

Broadway triumph with Wicked nearly 30 years later in 2003. 

It was Schwartz’s childhood dream to be a musical theatre 

composer and lyricist. But not all dreams come true, and he was going 

to be a psychologist if it didn’t work out. One of Schwartz’s big breaks 

came with a call from Disney who were looking for a writing partner 

for Alan Menken for his scores for animated features. It was an offer 

he couldn’t refuse. Together they did Pocahontas (1995, for which he 

won two Oscars), followed by The Hunchback of Notre Dame (1996), 

again written with Menken for Disney, then The Prince of Egypt for 

Dreamworks (1998, for which he wrote both music and lyrics and won 

a third Oscar for best original song for When You Believe). 

A brand-new stage musical of The Prince of Egypt will begin 

performances at London’s stunningly refurbished Dominion Theatre 

on Wednesday 5 February 2020 for a limited 32-week engagement. 

Luke Brady and Liam Tamne will lead the cast as ‘Moses’ and ‘Ramses’ 

respectively, with Christine Allado as ‘Tzipporah’ and Alexia Khadime 

as ‘Miriam’ and with further casting to be announced. 

Stephen Schwartz also wrote the music and lyrics for global hit 

Wicked which opened on Broadway in 2003, where it has run ever 

since. It transferred to the West End’s Apollo Victoria in 2006 and 

defied his own expectations with more than 7.5 million people having 

now seen it in London. The show’s London executive producer Michael 

McCabe pointed out that the sheer volume of people coming through 

the doors in such a big theatre means that 18,000 people a week are 

having a remarkable time. 

The show is famously a production that resonates particularly as a 

story of female empowerment. As David Stone, one of the producers, 

has famously been quoted as saying, “We all have that green girl 

inside of us”. And, for young women, that story has not been told too 

often in their terms. There are a lot of aspirational male stories, but not 

so many for women. u 

Ü FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT THE PRINCE OF EGYPT AND WICKED SEE WWW.THEATRE.LONDON 


10of the best 

WACKY 

BRITISH EVENTS 

Mad, silly or just a bit 

different, if there ever were 

a Wacky Olympics, the UK 

would top the medals table 

every time, as this selection 

of weird and wonderful 

events reveals 

Words | Max Wooldridge 


Brompton World Championships 

1 

O N Y O U R B I K E 

With a strict heritage dress code, and 

qualifying heats held in cities around the 

world, the final takes place around St James Park, 

London every summer – around 600 competitors 

with prizes for the fastest and best dressed. 

brompton.com/events 

L A W N M O W E R L E G E N D S 

12-Hour Lawnmower Race 

2 

For a grassroots British Grand Prix a world away from the pomp and silly money of 

Formula One, head to the 12-Hour Lawnmower Race at Five Oaks, near Billingshurst, 

West Sussex, in early August. This is cutting edge motor sports at its finest, with a Le Mansstyle 

grid start at 8pm, followed by 12 hours of racing through the night. The drivers, with no 

form of suspension other than a padded seat, take it very seriously. In fact, the first race in 

1978 was won by no less than racing legend Stirling Moss. blmra.co.uk 

T H E B E S T L I N K S C O U R S E I N S C O T L A N D 

World Hickory Golf Championships 

3 

Brassies, mashies and putters meet classy plus fours at Kingarrock in Scotland, the UK’s 

only remaining Hickory Golf Course, formed in 1924. Get back to stylish basics and nearly a 

century in time when golf relied on technique rather than technology. 

worldhickoryopen.com 

E G G S A N D N E T T L E S 

Egg Throwing World Championships 

4 

This eggcellent annual event respects a 

centuries-old tradition of egg throwing in 

the Lincolnshire village of Swaton. Watch teams 

try to launch eggs the furthest without breaking 

them, and contestants risk egg on their faces with 

Russian Egg Roulette. Each entrant has to smash 

an egg against their forehead…. out of six eggs 

available, five are hard-boiled but one is raw! 

World Nettle Eating Championship 

5 

This annual competition, held at the Bottle 

Inn, a 16th-century pub in the Dorset village of 

Marshwood, sees scores of contestants line up to 

eat as many two-foot long stalks of nettles as they 

can in an hour. A recent champion, aptly called 

Thorne, devoured 86 feet of stinging nettles. à 


T H E M I N D B O G G L E S 

T O S I N K ( T H I N K ) O R S W I M 

Diving Chess World Championship 

6 

The Diving Chess World Championship is a quirky, aquatic twist on the regular game in that 

the board is submerged in a swimming pool. And instead of a chess clock, players ponder 

their next move for as long as they can hold their breath underwater. msoworld.com 

World Bog Snorkelling Championships 

9 

Every August Bank Holiday Sunday, the small 

Welsh town of Llanwrtyd Wells turns daft 

revelry into an art form. Hardy swimmers, many in 

wetsuits, masks and fins compete to see who can 

swim the quickest through a 133-metre weedinfested 

and muddy peat bog on the outskirts of 

town. Not surprisingly, there’s never a great rush to 

congratulate the winner! visitwales.com 

First ever Jenga championship 

The newest of our wacky 

8 championships launches this 

September at Stratford’s sky-high venue, 

Roof East. Competitors compete in 

three different challenges; building 

the tallest Jenga tower; a super speedy 

skyscraper – and the ultimate test – ‘fat 

glove Jenga’, where contestants will need 

to remove bricks from their tower whilst 

wearing a pair of ski gloves! With a grand 

prize of £500 being awarded to one 

lucky team of two. Price is £10 per team. 

sfgclub.com 

A S A C K F U L L 

Woolsack Racing 

7 

Late May bank holiday 

sees contestants carry 

wool-filled sacks up and 

down the steepest hill in the 

Gloucestershire market town 

of Tetbury. The fun and frolics 

pay homage to a 17th century 

tradition when young drovers 

tried to impress local maidens. 

tetburywoolsack.co.uk 

N E W K I D O N T H E B L O C K 

T O E M U C H T O W A T C H 

World Toe Wrestling Championship 

10 

Watch an amazing annual feat of strength, 

similar to arm wrestling, only with toes, 

which sees contestants lie on the floor opposite 

each other and lock bare feet with toes and try 

to pin the other's foot down. The game was 

invented by four drinkers in Ye Olde Royal Oak 

Inn in Wetton, Staffordshire in 1974, who were 

bemoaning the fact that the UK struggled to 

produce any world champions. Logically, if a new 

sport was invented that no one else knew about, 

the country could boast a champion at last. Having 

tried "ear wrestling" and "push of war" (with a 

scaffolding pole), Pete Cheetham, Eddie Stansfield, 

Pete Dean and Mick Dawson created toe wrestling. 

A rule board was produced by the sign writers 

at the Yorkshire Evening Post (Mick's girlfriend, 

Angie Edward, had a father who was the editor) 

and even a small trophy was made and engraved. 

royaloakwetton.co.uk 


Cruise in England 

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EXCELLENT FUN FOR AGE 5 AND UP! 

ROALD DAHL’S 

UNTIL JAN 2020 

FAMILY TRAILS, WORKSHOPS AND EVENTS 

In Great Missenden, Buckinghamshire. 

The heart of Roald Dahl Country. 

The Roald Dahl Museum 

roalddahl.com/museum 

HP16 0AL. 45 min 

by train from London 

Jack Savoretti | Laura Mvula 

Ward Thomas | Jess Gillam 

Juan de Marcos’ Afro-Cuban All Stars 

and many more

In search of 

SPARKLING 

WINE 

The Royal Family serves it. So does 10 Downing Street. English Sparkling 

Wine is a fizzing success. Even Taittinger is getting in on the act 

Words | Adrian Mourby 

TEN YEARS AGO in London a rumour circulated 

that Prince Charles no longer served champagne 

at Highgrove but an English sparkling wine called 

Nyetimber. The wine was being produced at a 

vineyard in the West Sussex South Downs. Planting had begun 

in 1986 after geological similarities were discovered between 

southern England and the Champagne region of France. 

By 2010 the Nyetimber secret was out. The vineyard’s 

Classic Cuvée beat Bollinger in a blind tasting and was named 

best sparkling wine in the world. Suddenly it was being served 

at 10 Downing Street and replaced champagne at the Queen’s 

Diamond Jubilee celebrations in 2012. 

Since Nyetimber swept the British Isles and Britain’s export 

market, other excellent sparkling wines have been discovered. 

They cannot be called champagnes because the grapes are 

not grown – and the wine is not produced – in the eponymous 

French region, but the soil is similar, the method is the same 

and the grapes – Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier – 

are just the same as used in Champagne. Once upon a time the 

idea of English “champagne” would have been a joke, but the 

right climatic and geographical conditions were always there in 

the south of England. 

The British just had to prove to themselves that it could 

be done. Britain has enjoyed a long, happy connection to the 

sparkling wines of Champagne. At the same time that Dom 

Pérignon was rigorously trying to eliminate the bubbles from 

wines produced at his abbey in Saint-Pierre d’Hautvillers, 

Londoners were importing the wines of Champagne specifically 

because they enjoyed quaffing the sparkle. In 1662 the Royal 

Society discussed a paper that sought to explain secondary 

fermentation in the bottle and soon after Sir Kenelm Digby set 

his glassworks the task of creating a bottle strong enough to 

hold this fashionable new wine. Up until Digby’s intervention 

sparkling wine had a worrying tendency to explode during its 

secondary fermentation. 

However, it wasn’t until 1984 that a commercial vineyard 

in England managed to produce traditional method sparkling 

wines although it used German grapes. Two years later in 

1988 a vineyard was planted at Nyetimber with the three 

traditional champagne grapes. The first sparkling wine from 

Nyetimber was released in 1997 and immediately won a 

medal. Other vineyards followed where Nyetimber led. Some 

– like Denbies in Surrey – were existing still wine producers 

who branched out into sparkling wines. Many more, like 

Gusbourne in Kent, set up business with the intention of 

creating sparkling wine. 

Today, the majority of wine produced in England is 

sparkling. Current production levels suggest 12million bottles 

will be produced in 2020 with the three Champagne varieties 

accounting for over 70% of all grapes planted. 

There are now over 100 wineries in England producing 

sparkling wines, including the French Champagne house 

Taittinger which planted its first vines in Kent in 2017. 

Many have visitor centres and even dining rooms. Those 

that do not often welcome tours and arrange tastings. Here are 

six to visit – from Kent to Cornwall. à 



WE LOVE 

NYETIMBER 

CLASSIC CUVÉE 

Creamy texture with notes of 

lemon and brioche. Nyetimber’s 

vineyards all face south, ensuring the 

ideal conditions for the slow ripening 

of the grapes. This orientation results 

in optimum levels of acidity and 

complexity. Details of each bottle’s 

history can be found by entering 

the number on the back label 

on Nyetimber’s website. 

1NYETIMBER 

WEST CHITLINGTON, 

SUSSEX 

This beautiful half-timbered site 

in West Sussex has been key to the 

transformation of England’s sparkling 

wine industry. As a very busy winery 

producing over a million bottles a year, 

Nyetimber is not normally open to the 

public, but there are six open days 

during the summer months. Tickets cost 

£35 and include tastings. There is also 

the opportunity to stay on for a dinner 

cooked by top UK chefs with Nyetimberpairings 

(£150 pp). 

nyetimber.com 

Where to stay 

Amberley Castle 

This 19-room converted 

castle lies nine miles south of 

Nyetimber. 

Ancient Amberley has 

had many owners including 

the 15th Duke of Norfolk who 

restored its medieval portcullis 

in Victorian times. Charles II 

visited the castle twice after the 

Restoration. Family-owned for 

centuries, it became a country 

house hotel in 1989. 

amberleycastle.co.uk

RIDGEVIEW 

HASSOCKS, SUSSEX 

Family-owned since 1995, 

Ridgeview was recently crowned 

one of the best vineyards in the 

world (No 36 in the Top 50 and 

the only UK entry). Its Cellar Door 

is open daily for complimentary 

tastings and sales. Ridgeview is 

very visitor-friendly with private 

tours by appointment, exclusive 

dinners in collaboration with top 

chefs, picnic hampers for sale to 

those who want to eat in its wine 

garden and an annual Ridgefest in 

August. 

ridgeview.co.uk 

Where to stay 

Ockenden Manor 

This sixteenth-century manor 

house only became a hotel after 

World War II. Standing six miles 

north of Ridgeview, it offers a finedining 

restaurant, elegant drawing 

room, croquet lawn and an 

outdoor swimming pool fed by the 

hotel’s own spring. Ridgeview has 

long been the house “champagne” 

at Ockenden Manor and the hotel 

will arrange visits to the winery for 

guests. 

hshotels.co.uk/ockenden-manor 

2 

JENKYN PLACE 

NR FARNHAM, SURREY 

This family-run Hampshire winery was 

founded in 2004 and now has 15,000 

vines. Owner Simon Bladon claims 

that when he attended a furniture 

auction in 2003 he was handed a 

glass of English sparkling wine for 

the first time and had a Damascene 

conversion. Bladon bought no 

furniture that day, but came home and 

began planning to cultivate vines in 

the old hop fields next to his house. 

jenkynplace.com 

JENKYN PLACE 

CLASSIC CUVEE 

BRUT 2014 

A beautiful golden wine with aromas 

of green apple, floral hints and minerality. 

Jenkyn Place wines are said to age 

well so this is also one for laying 

down. The vineyard also produces 

a Rosé and Blanc de Blanc. Dermot 

Sugrue, Jenkyn’s winemaker, was also 

responsible for some of Nyetimber’s 

early success, hence the accolades.and 

a rather more expensive Rosé de Noirs. 

3WE 

LOVE 

BLOOMSBURY 

Ridegeview’s signature blend is 

predominantly Chardonnay, with 

Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier adding 

depth and character. Bloomsbury is light 

golden in colour with a fine, persistent 

mousse, citrus fruit aromas and even hints 

of honey. The company also produces a 

Fitzrovia Sparkling Rosé and a rather more 

expensive Rosé de Noirs. 

WE LOVE 

Where to stay 

The Merry Harriers 

The Merry Harriers is a 

picturesque, wonderfully 

eccentric pub with rooms, 

18 miles south east of Jenkyn 

Place. Guests can stay above 

the bar or in some luxury 

shepherd-hut caravans in the 

garden. Best of all, the pub 

owns a herd of llamas who are 

very friendly and can even be 

taken for walks by guests. 

merryharriers.com à 


GUSBOURNE 

APPLEDORE NEAR 

ASHFORD, KENT 

Appledore is said to be the seconddriest 

place in England, which 

has helped Gusbourne’s vineyards 

prosper. Self-guided tours cost £25 

and end in the beautiful modern 

wooden tasting room known as 

“The Nest”. Hosted tours are also 

available for £65pp and feature 

rarer wines and lunch in The Nest. 

gusbourne.com 

4 

Where to stay 

Chilston Park 17 miles north 

of the Gusbourne Estate, Chilston 

Park is like spending the weekend at 

the country house of a gentleman 

acquaintance. It became a hotel in 

1983 but still has the feel of a family 

home with an eclectic collection 

of paintings and a very small 

bar tucked under the great oak 

staircase. 

handpickedhotels.co.uk/ 

chilstonpark 

30 BritishTravelJournal.com 

GUSBOURNE BRUT 

RESERVE 2015 

This wine clearly benefits from being 

grown on clay and sandy loam soils on a 

south-facing escarpment. It’s bright gold 

in colour with hints of apple, pear and 

citrus and an elegant finish. Gusbourne 

produces just three wines: Brut Reserve, 

Blanc de Blancs and Gusbourne Rosé. So 

popular is the wine that people subscribe 

in advance to be guaranteed 12 bottles a 

year, four of each. 

CAMEL VALLEY 

BRUT RESERVE 

Because of a damper climate than 

Sussex, Camel Valley Vineyard blends its 

Chardonnay and Pinot Noir with 50% 

Seyval grapes. Moreover the planting on a 

loam soil rather than the traditional chalk 

slopes of southern England results in a very 

fresh wine, fruitier than most UK sparkling 

wines. Camel Valley Brut Reserve has won 

many awards and has a citrus character 

with a touch of honey on the palate. 

WE LOVE

DENBIES 

DORKING, SURREY 

This eighteenth-century estate was 

established as a farm by Thomas 

Denby but today contains the largest 

vineyard in Britain, a visitor centre and 

– surprisingly – the Surrey Performing 

Arts Library. Many wines, still and 

sparkling, are produced at Denbies 

and there is also an on-site brewery. 

A range of tours is offered starting at 

£11.50 pp. 

denbies.co.uk 

Where to stay 

Denbies Vineyard Hotel 

Actually on the Denbies Wine Estate 

itself. Our surprise entry, the recently 

upgraded farmhouse B&B, following 

a £4m transformation, has opened 

as the UK's first-ever vineyard hotel. 

Stay in one of the 17-bedrooms in 

the new Denbies Vineyard Hotel and 

enjoy outdoor dining in the orangery 

garden restaurant, in the heart of the 

wine-making experience. 

denbies.co.uk 

CUBITT BLANC DE 

NOIRS 2013 

Denbies produces a wide range of 

still white wines as well as eight sparkling 

wines, some named Cubitt after the 

master builder, Thomas Cubitt who 

redesigned the estate in the nineteenth 

century. The Cubitt Blanc de Blancs 2013 

won silver in Decanter’s 2019 World Wine 

Awards. There are notes of apple and 

citrus with hints of vanilla and minerality. 

5 

CAMEL VALLEY 

BODMIN, CORNWALL 

The Camel Valley Vineyard overlooks sun-drenched 

valley slopes west of Bodmin. This Cornish winery 

produces 11 wines, seven of them sparkling, and 

has recently been granted Royal Warrant status as 

a regular supplier to HRH Prince Charles, Duke of 

Cornwall. A guided tour for two people costs £19. 

camelvalley.com 

WE LOVE 

Where to stay 

Camel Valley Estate There are two 

barn conversion cottages on the estate and a 

complimentary bottle is supplied for each new arrival. 

During fishing season, guests can, by arrangement, 

use the vineyard’s own private stretch of the Camel 

River. Salmon and sea trout have been caught here by 

experienced anglers. 

camelvalley.com 6 


REVIVAL 

Emma Johnson goes 

Behind-the-Scenes 

and discovers a creative hive of vintage style, racing 

memorabilia and an infectious party atmosphere… 


READY 

BritishTravelJournal.com à33

THERE IS PERHAPS no more nostalgic, 

quintessentially British event than the 

magnificent spectacle of tradition and colour 

that is the Goodwood Revival. Steeped in 

history and alive with pomp and ceremony, this classical 

car show forms a key part of the British summer season 

and is renowned for its eclectic displays of vintage fashion, 

old motorcars, racing drama and retro food and drink. 

Visitors – who come dressed in their best vintage 

and period finery – can expect to enjoy the thrills and 

spills of a traditional fairground, to shop on a recreated 

old-fashioned high street, complete with vintage hair 

salon and hundreds of wonderful vintage shops, to 

enjoy the style and creativity of the Revival Fashion 

Show, accompanied by music from the time, to watch 

vintage war planes take to the sky and to cheer as classic 

competition cars race around the historic circuit, their 

drivers dressed in traditional racing attire. 

Each year the event is themed and organisers work 

hard to conjure up special moments from the past to 

recreate and recollect. Past Revivals have celebrated 

everything from the anniversary of the fish finger, to the 

bikini and an exhibit of post-war utilities like kitchen 

mixers. And that’s just aside from the incredible races 

the team put on each year, on the track, celebrating key 

moments in racing history and the legendary cars and 

drivers who competed. 

TEAM EFFORT 

Preparing for an event like this is no mean feat, and 

preparations take all year. At Goodwood there is a 

dedicated event team who look after everything from the 

grounds and the parking to the food and entertainment. 

Over 750 full time staff spend the year planning and 

building, designing and creating – attention-to-detail 

is second to none and many of the team are vintage 

experts. As Revival time nears, that number doubles, 

made up of stewards and catering staff, as well a 

dedicated team of actors in traditional costume, to add 

a real sense of authenticity to the day. 

“It’s a stand 

out event in 

every way 

– from the 

incredible 

detail and 

precision of 

the theatrics 

team, to the 

authentic 

food and 

drink at 

every eatery 

and the 

wonderful 

celebration 

of classical 

motorcars. ” 

CREATIVE INSPIRATION 

The Revival setting is hugely creative, with lots of replicas 

of vintage shopfronts, cafés, brands and more, as well 

as themed events each year to celebrate a particular era. 

Goodwood has a dedicated ‘theatrics’ panel who meet 

regularly to come up with the themes and anniversaries 

they’re going to bring to life each year, and decide how 

they will make each year ever more awe-inspiring and 

exciting than the last. In the past, the team have built 

Henley Regatta boating club, complete with the river 

Thames, a fully functioning farm and recreated the 1966 

World Cup win. 

Because of the unique nature of the event, a lot of the 

sets have to be built and recreated from scratch, but the 

team keep as much set dressing to re-use from year to 

year as they can. They even have a dedicated painting 

team, who spend the months before the revival painting 

the set to make it look old, and fitting in with the Revival 

period. 


IN NUMBERS 

3 DAYS 

14 RACES 

150,000 

VISITORS 

12,950 

CUPS OF TEA 

26,000 

PINTS OF BEER 

10,175 

GRANDSTAND SEATS 

154 

SHIPPING CONTAINERS 

containing, amongst 

other things, props and 

set dress for the site 

200 

RECYCLING BINS 

FOOD & FASHION 

Absolutely everyone dresses up – in everything from 

late ‘40s to late ’60s style – meaning you’ll see Land 

Girls and RAF pilots drinking tea or cheering on a car 

right next to Twiggy look-a-likes and Beatles’ mop tops. 

Putting together your outfit is a major part of visiting the 

Revival and many enthusiasts use the event to shop for 

the next year’s show at the Revival Fashion section on the 

Revival High Street, where you can buy vintage clothes 

as well as shoes, handbags, hats and other accessories. 

Food and drink is given just as much attention here 

too, with all the eateries decorated in an old-fashioned 

style, complete with bunting, tea sets, flags, tablecloths 

and doilies. The Spitfire Café gives a great view of 

the aerodrome and ‘Freddy March Spirit of Aviation’ 

Exhibition, while our favourite is the Mess – themed 

with long benches and bunting, and right on the start 

line so you don’t miss any of the action on the track. 

It’s a stand out event in every way – from the incredible 

detail and precision of the theatrics team, 

to the authentic food and drink at every 

eatery and the wonderful celebration of 

classical motorcars. Visitors can expect a 

real sense of stepping back into the past, of 

capturing the colour and magic of a time 

gone by, of coming together for a joyful 

celebration that feels truly, inescapably, 

British. As Radio DJ and major car 

enthusiast Chris Evans says: “I love this 

more than Christmas. I’m looking forward to 

every single race, every single nut, every single 

bolt, every single tyre, every single steering 

wheel. Best thing ever! I love it here.” u 

13 – 15 SEPTEMBER 

GOODWOOD.COM/REVIVAL 

DON’T MISS… 

REVIVAL FASHION 

An area dedicated entirely to vintage 

style, with the added bonus of personal 

shoppers and the daily ‘Best Dressed’ 

competition, with categories for best 

dressed man and woman, best dressed 

family and best dressed sixties swinger! 

MINIS AND MINI SKIRTS 

As part of the Revival’s celebration of 60 

years of the Mini, the Revival also brings 

the ‘Swinging Sixties’ to life in its inimitable 

way. Aside from some of the most daring 

miniskirts around, you can also expect the 

wonderful sight of several Mini Coopers, 

custom-built for each one of The Beatles, 

along with Cilla Black’s own Mini, all 

parked outside a recreated ‘Abbey Road 

Studios’. 

CHILDREN’S PEDAL CAR RACE 

As keenly fought as any other race, the 

line-up includes The Settrington Cup, a 

children’s race in Austin J40 pedal cars 

down the main straight of the Goodwood 

Motor Circuit. 

THE REVIVAL HIGH STREET 

A recreated sixties high street, with 

everything from automotive memorabilia 

to vintage clothing, will transport you back 

to another era, so you can experience high 

street shopping as it used to be. 


I N T E R V I E W W I T H 

RAYMOND 

BLANC 

In a special year 

Top chef Raymond Blanc celebrates two milestones 

this year – his 70th birthday and the 35th anniversary of his 

hotel-restaurant, Belmond Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons. The 

perfect interviewee tells Max Wooldridge how the UK food 

scene has changed and who remains his greatest influence 

GOSH, IF ONLY every interview 

was as delightful as an hour in the 

company of the renowned chef 

Raymond Blanc. 

I’ve chatted with a number of celebrities 

over the years, mostly about where they’ve 

travelled to, and what inspires them. Not every 

meeting has been an enjoyable experience. 

There was one celebrity who couldn’t 

remember the country he’d been to on a free 

holiday; another couldn’t properly pronounce 

the key destinations in the region she was 

being paid handsomely to promote. 

And too often than not there’s an 

overzealous PR close by to steer their client 

towards the key points that need to be 

hammered home. At times, you’re even left to 

decipher monosyllabic grunts and somehow 

transform them into a sentence or two. 

An interview with Raymond Blanc is a 

different encounter entirely. He’s cheerful, 

garrulous with a ready smile and makes the 

writer’s job very easy indeed. All the reporter 

has to do is turn up and remember to switch on 

their recording device. 

But best of all, perhaps, is the famous chef’s 

joie de vivre and passion for food and life. His 

attitude soon rubs off and you walk away from 

the meeting feeling another two feet tall. For a 

long time afterwards you apply his inspiration 

to what makes you tick. 

I simply need not have bothered with the 

long list of carefully thought-out questions 

prepared in advance. 

Blanc talks continuously and passionately 

in a thick, melodic French accent, which is 

regularly punctuated with his trademark 

“ooh la la”. And as he talks, you tick off the 

questions one-by-one until suddenly there’s 

none left. 

In fact, Blanc answers my first question 

before we’ve even sat down. 

He says he has certainly seen the food scene 

in this country improve drastically since he 

arrived in the UK in the early 1970s. 

“Back then the British food scene was 

very different, totally unrecognisable with 

nowadays,” he recalls. 

“The UK was simply not a nation of foodlovers. 

Sure good food was available but it 


“I’m still just a humble 

chef and gardener, a 

country boy from a 

small French village” 

was class-led and exclusive. The country was a 

culinary wasteland with lots of intensive farming. 

“But now it's so different and there's a real 

celebration of proper, authentic food.” 

The change, he believes, is not due to the rise of 

master chefs and successful TV cooking shows but 

humble everyday British folk. 

“The revolution in food in this country has 

largely been down to British consumers themselves. 

People are so much more food-aware and curious 

nowadays. They want to know what's in their food 

and realise the extent to which food connects with 

everything, with every part of our lives.” 

Blanc turns 70-years-old in November, in 

the same year as his famous Oxfordshire hotelrestaurant, 

Belmond Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, 

celebrates its 35th anniversary. The hotel and its 

renowned two Michelin-starred restaurant are now 

part of the Belmond luxury hotel group. 

He bought the 15th century manor back in the early 1980s when 

he had his restaurant Les Quat'Saisons in Summertown, Oxford. 

As soon as he saw the property for sale (in Country Life 

mag azine) Blanc immediat ely drove to see it in his old Vauxhall car. 

When the owner opened the door he told them he wanted to buy 

their manor. He launched Le Manoir aux Quat’Sa isons as a hotel in 

1984. 

Despite his numerous culinary triumphs and accolades, 

Raymond Blanc thinks of himself as a simple man at heart. 

“I’m still just a humble chef and gardener, a country boy from a 

small French village.” 

That village is Saône, near Besançon, in the rural Franche- 

Comté region that borders Switzerland. à 



“The chef at the restaurant I was working at in France did 

not like it when I criticised his sauce. He first broke my 

jaw with a copper saucepan, and I was then sacked by the 

boss!” 

Blanc says how his gastronomic career 

in the UK started almost by chance when he 

arrived from the Jura mountains in the summer 

of 1972. 

“In a way, looking back, I guess I was exiled 

to England,” he recalls with a grin. 

“The chef at the restaurant I was working 

at in France did not like it when I criticised his 

sauce. He first broke my jaw with a copper 

saucepan, and I was then sacked by the boss! 

“But unlike Napoleon,” Blanc jokes, 

“who had the idea of conquering, I arrived in 

England with a lot more humility. I was full of 

lots of ideas and aspiration.” 

Nowadays Blanc feels at home in the UK, 

and he certainly seems to like Britain, and the 

British people. 

“I am very happy in Britain, and on a daily 

basis it feels like home for me. And you British 

have taught me a lot about life!” 

Blanc says the British pragmatic approach 

to life has served him well. It has opened his 

eyes and improved him greatly as a person as 

well as broadening his mind. 

“Perhaps the best thing I've learned from 

the British is a sense of fairness. And I’ve 

learned the ability to laugh at myself. This is 

often the greatest hurdle for any Frenchman! 

“Oh yes, and I've also learned to queue, 

too. In fact, I get really upset now when I see 

people jumping the queue!” 

Then he reveals the person who has 

inspired him the most in his life. 

“At the risk of sounding like a Mummy's 

Boy, my mother is unquestionably still my 

greatest inspiration. She gave me such a 

fundamental grounding and taught me that 

food is an act of love. You bring your family 

together, and you create a feast or banquet. 

“She showed me that the dining table is the 

centre of the house, not the living room. It's 

where you share things, where you joke, you 

argue, you get to know each other, and the 

dinner table is the most natural place to do so. 

“But sadly, I really feel we are losing this 

ability to engage with each other these days. 

I'm lucky that I have the same energy as my 

mother, and I always try to pass on her wisdom 

to others.” 

Once again, before I can ask him, he tells 

me how a top chef keeps in shape. 

“Let's just say I have a good metabolism!” 

he says, laughing. 

“No, actually, if you work in a hot kitchen 

for half the day or more, believe me, the 

heat means you're going to burn off a lot of 

calories, maybe as many as 3,000 calories, 

more even. It's not quite like riding a stage of 

the Tour de France but not far off.” 

Despite being an honorary Brit, Blanc 

returns to his native France regularly, especially 

Paris. He reconnects with friends and meets with 

his culinary contemporaries he greatly admires, 

like the renowned chef Pierre Gagnaire. 

“Pierre is one of the best chefs in Europe. 

His Paris restaurant has three Michelin stars. à 


I love his approach and sensitivity to food. 

“I’ll usually visit Paris for a day or two at 

a time. I'm not an expert on the place. I just 

know a lot of chefs and gardeners! 

“Each time I visit Paris I discover 

somewhere wonderful - a great new cafe, or 

a small bistro with a lot of character. 

“But the best thing about Paris is the 

wonderful fresh food markets. They are some 

of the best in the world. They are all about 

proud people selling fresh, local produce.” 

He singles out one market, in particular: 

the Marché President Wilson in the 16th 

arrondissement on the Avenue du Président 

Wilson (between Rue Debrousse and Place 

d’Iéna, also known as the Pont de l’Alma 

market. 

“Markets like this are so much more than 

just a place to buy food. It's a wonderful 

snapshot of Parisian daily life, a lively 

gathering of vendors and regulars catching 

up with each other.” 

Somehow he has sensed that I have a trip 

to Paris in the near future. Blanc reels off his 

recommendations for places to eat in the city 

of light. 

He mentions his favourite old haunts like 

l'Atelier Maitre Albert (1, rue Maitre Albert), 

Le Beurre Noisette (68, rue Vasco de Gama, 


15th arrondissement) or Les Petites Sorcières 

(12, rue Liancourt, 14th arrondissement). 

Then he’s back to extolling the virtues of 

Parisien food markets, and the Marché des 

Enfants Rouges (in the Marais district, in the 

3rd arrondissement). 

“It's the oldest food market in Paris. It is sonamed 

because it used to be an orphanage 

where the children dressed in red.” 

There’s a rare but brief pause in the 

conversation before he dishes out the advice 

he would give to any young chefs starting out. 

“The most important thing is to be 

curious,” he says. “Be curious about 

everything. It’s so important to open your 

mind, to open your heart. Be intuitive and 

receptive and ask thousands of questions. 

Even today, I'm still curious about everything. 

“Equally, talent alone will never be enough 

to carry you where you want to go, so you 

have to work really hard, too. Build up your 

will power and inner strength, so when you're 

down you can pick yourself up. It also helps 

if you love people. If I ever stop loving people 

then I will stop doing what I'm doing. 

“And it’s important to remember that a 

well-run kitchen is a quiet and harmonious 

kitchen. Being a chef is not about humiliating 

other people like we see on our TV screens. In 

a kitchen no-one ever needs to shout.” u 

DON'T MISS! 

THE ANNIVERSARY 

MUSIC NIGHT 

GRAND FINALE 2 0 

NOVEMBER. JOIN 

IN THE FUN WITH 

THE HOTEL’S 35TH 

ANNIVERSARY 

CELEBRATIONS, AND 

COMMEMORATION 

TO RAYMOND’S 

70TH BIRTHDAY. 

BELMOND.COM/ 

LEMANOIR 


EXPLORE THE GREAT WEST WAY ® 

WITH AN EXPERT GUIDE 

Chauffeur driven tours with a Blue Badge Guide 

www.southwestdriverguide.co.uk | southwestguide@gmail.com 

eat explore experience 

Visit Exeter for seriously stylish shops, a diverse cultural scene and top eateries 

serving the best of Devon’s food and drink. Add 2,000 years of history into 

the mix and it’s easy to see why everyone’s talking about Exeter! 

www.visitexeter.com

Escape to the 

HISTORIC CITY 

OF EXETER 

FOR A CHRISTMAS SHOPPING BREAK 

WIN 

EXETER’S COMPACT CITY CENTRE 

makes it ideal for Christmas shopping. 

An eclectic mix of shops can be found 

within easy walking distance of each 

other, from the big names in the High Street and 

Princesshay, to independent and vintage fashions, 

jewellery, crafts and gifts in the cobbled Gandy 

Street and quirky West Quarter. 

Browse for unique and artisan gifts from local 

retailers and enjoy festive food and mulled wine 

at the wonderfully atmospheric Christmas Market 

on Cathedral Green, open from 16 November 

until 19 December. This year, the city is the 

stage for 5 Nights of Lights. Celebrating each 

corner of the city, festive lights will be switched 

on each evening in the city’s distinct shopping 

quarters, with live music and entertainment from 

Wednesday 13 – Sunday 17 November. 

Light will be the theme for Princesshay Shopping 

Centre’s evening street entertainment, every 

Thursday in the run up to Christmas, when shops 

across the city will stay open until late. Head to the 

nearby maritime town of Topsham for enchanting 

Christmas lights, switched on 15 November amidst 

carols and a procession of light. Topsham is home to 

a large number of independents where you can pick 

up unique festive treats. 

When you’re shopped out, cosy up with a real ale in 

one of Exeter’s historic pubs, or seek out one of the 

city’s speakeasy-style cocktail bars for a seasonal 

concoction. This should get you in the mood 

for a festive sing along to this year’s pantomime 

performance of Beauty and the Beast at the Exeter 

Northcott, running from 30 November – 5 January. 

All of the city’s historic attractions are open year 

round. Escape the hubbub of Christmas shoppers 

to explore beneath the city’s streets on a guided 

tour of Exeter’s Underground Passages, built in 

medieval times to house the fresh water pipes 

serving the residents of the city. The Passages are 

dark and very narrow - not for the claustrophobic! 

Join a free guided walking tour of Exeter with 

the Red Coat Guides to discover more about 

this fascinating city and its 2,000 year history, 

and definitely don’t miss RAMM, Exeter’s award 

winning museum, where you can explore 16 

galleries of local and national touring exhibitions, 

also completely free of charge. 

Excellent road, rail, bus and air links mean Exeter 

is within easy reach of the rest of the UK, and the city 

is an ideal base for exploring the rest of Devon. u 

Go to www.visitexeter.com/christmas to find out 

more about visiting Exeter this Christmas. 

COMPETITION 

WIN A FESTIVE 

BREAK IN EXETER 

PRIZE INCLUDES 

• Two night stay at the 

Mercure Rougemont Hotel 

(for two people with breakfast) 

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• Half day course at the 

Exeter Cookery School 

• Souvenir picture of Exeter at 

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• Hamper of local produce 

from members of the Exeter 

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HOW TO ENTER 

visitexeter.com/ 

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BEHIND the B RAND 

S E C O N D C H A N C E S K I N S 

Part of a considerable movement to protect both British craftsmanship 

and promote a sustainable business model, leather brand Billy Tannery 

use goat skins that would otherwise have been discarded to create 

beautiful and unique bags and accessories. We meet its founders… 

Words | Emma Johnson 

SUSTAINABILITY HAS BECOME a major 

buzz word for brands recently. Being able 

to demonstrate your commitment to ethical 

manufacturing or promote your green criteria 

as key parts of your marketing strategy, is, these days, 

considerably good business sense. 

But, for some businesses, sustainability isn’t just a 

secondary concern, or a nice promotional soundbite, 

it’s fundamental to the identity of the brand. Not least 

for Billy Tannery, a sustainable leather brand whose 

entire reason for existing comes from a need to reduce 

wastage and run a truly sustainable business. à 


Before Billy Tannery existed, 

UK goatskins were either 

destroyed, or occasionally 

shipped overseas to be tanned. 

WASTE NOT 

Founded by childhood friends Jack and Rory, Billy Tannery 

makes bags, briefcases, aprons and accessories using 

beautiful British goat skins which are left over from the 

UK meat and dairy industry. Before Billy Tannery existed, 

UK goatskins were either destroyed, or occasionally 

shipped overseas to be tanned. After much of the UK’s 

leather industry collapsed in the eighties and nineties, 

the smaller tanneries that were set-up for tanning small 

skins closed. Given the UK’s rich heritage for leather 

production, and the dreadful waste of these valuable 

skins, Jack and Rory thought something had to be 

addressed. “For us sustainability is about questioning 

everything, and applying some common sense. Does 

that waste product really have to go into landfill? In most 

cases, we could be using it to create something useful.” 

What Billy Tannery creates are supple, robust satchels, 

smart, sturdy briefcases, hardwearing, industrial-style 

aprons and simple, stylish accessories – all made using 

striking goat leather. “Goat leather has an especially 

pronounced grain that comes from the natural 

characteristics of each skin,” explains Rory. “A lot of the 

time, with industrially-produced leather, these natural 

variations are covered up by printing an artificial grain 

pattern on to the skin. 

Our goat leather always retains the natural grain, 

which means that each of our products is subtly different 

and unique.” 

Crucial to Billy Tannery’s identity, however, is how 

it produces all this while maintaining a short supply 

chain and supporting and investing in British artisan 

skills – though it has not been a journey of entirely 

plain sailing. The brand’s plan was to build their own 

microtannery, source wastage product goat skins from 

abattoirs and then make their products in a handful of 

workshops in the UK. “From the very start, we designed 

the brand specifically to keep the supply chain as short as 

possible, as we felt this was a key component for ensuring 

sustainability and transparency. 

However we found out that, as no one had done 

anything quite like this before, the infrastructure just 

wasn’t in place.” 

“Goat leather 

has an 

especially 

pronounced 

grain that 

comes from 

the natural 

characteristics 

of each skin” 

SOURCING SKINS 

Through Cabrito, the goat meat company that is 

currently the source of all of Billy Tannery’s goatskins, 

the company were able to find out which abattoirs 

could provide them with goatskins, and start to build 

their network. “They were initially sceptical about a 

couple of idiots ringing them up talking about a new 

microtannery,” says Jack. “But we negotiated a price 

for the skins to be salted and kept until there were 

enough for us to take away. 

Once they had also dealt with the tricky specifics 

of transporting animal products - something that 

required new licensing - the pair turned to finding a 

location for, and building, the microtannery, which 

would process all their skins ready for production. 

BUILDING THE TANNERY 

“Building the tannery was a really exciting, if terrifying, 

experience. It was a big gamble as we had to build 

it before we knew if it was actually going to work, or 

before we could start work on any other areas like 

product design,” says Jack. As luck would have it, a 

local tannery engineer had two wooden tanning drums 

that had been salvaged from a sheepskin factory 

which closed in the nineties. This was the turning point 

for Jack and Rory, who set about installing them and 

building the tannery. The pair then spent almost a year 

learning how to tan leather, under the watchful eye of 

industry veteran Paul Evans, who helped them to tailor 

the process to the equipment and the raw materials - 

always with sustainability at the forefront. Impressively, 

the tannery operates a uniquely sustainable process in 


BEHIND THE BRAND 

Pictured Left: Billy Tannery co-founder 

Jack Millington working in the tannery. 

Pictured Below: The Gote, priced 

£395.00 and The Briefcase, priced 

£450.00, www.billytannery.co.uk 

that it recycles 90 per cent of the water used for each tanning process, 

rather than starting each new batch with thousands of litres of new 

water. Any waste water is stored and treated onsite, after which it is 

used as fertiliser on the surrounding grassland, which in turn feeds 

livestock. “So we in fact have a positive impact on our surrounding 

environment too,” says Jack proudly. 

FINDING WORKSHOPS 

The final cog in the machine was to find workshops in the UK willing 

to accept small production runs. It turned out to one of the greatest 

challenges that Jack and Rory have faced so far. “Finding high quality 

workshops in the UK is a dark art of hushed recommendations, 

often impossible communication and plenty of trial and error with 

sampling,” explains Rory. “There are so few decent leather goods 

workshops in the UK, that understandably people tend to be very 

secretive about where their products are made.” The brand ended 

up working with an experienced industry consultant to review its 

manufacturing, and finally settled on a process which suited their 

initial needs, and gives the company plenty of scope to grow. “For us a 

big part of the equation is the relationship with the workshop, it has to 

be an enjoyable experience for everyone involved,” adds Rory. 

STAYING SUSTAINABLE 

Day-by-day, operations are dealt with by Jack, while creative director 

Rory works on all aspects of design and brand communications, from 

product design through to the look of the website and social media. 

“When it comes to design, our inspiration comes from the leather 

itself,” explains Rory. “For us, the best British design sits somewhere 

between restrained and bold, so we tend to start with a classic product 

style and then look to modernise and simplify it, while maximising the 

impact of our goat leather.” 

This commitment to echoing the intrinsic British style is typical of a 

brand that understands exactly where it has come from. “We are proud 

to source, tan and make pretty much everything here in the UK,” says 

Jack. “From a practical point of view, this makes it easier for us to run 

our business, but from a brand perspective we can also be much more 

transparent about where our products are made, what they are made 

from and the people that make them.” 

It’s still early days for a brand that is barely two years old, but already 

has plenty of strong credentials under its belt. Building the first new 

tannery in the UK for decades is a major achievement, while a recent 

collaboration of a limited-edition goat leather sneaker made with local 

shoemaker Crown Northampton – which featured in The Times – has 

been a highlight for the pair. And sustainability continues to feature 

high on their list of priorities. “We are always looking for ways to 

improve our tanning processes and make them even more sustainable, 

so we have recently been working on a project looking into the use of 

food and drink waste in our tannery. The early results have been really 

promising,” explains Jack. 

“But, the thing that makes us most proud is hearing such positive 

feedback from customers. When a customer takes the time to email us 

to say how much they love their bag or other product, it makes all the 

hard work worthwhile,” adds Rory. u 


OUTDOOR 

ART 

A stellar art exhibition can make for a fabulous day out, 

but sometimes you just want to be in the great outdoors. 

Luckily, these do not need to be mutually exclusive thanks to 

the fantastic selection of world-class art in sculpture parks, 

beaches and gardens which makes for a scintillating experience 

Words | Emma Harrison

SCULPTURE BY 

THE LAKES, DORSET 

Described as one of the most beautiful 

sculpture parks in the UK, Sculpture by the 

Lakes is a haven of peace and tranquillity. 

Nestled in 26 acres of Dorset's glorious 

countryside, renowned sculptor Simon 

Gudgeon has created a glorious treat for 

art enthusiasts and collectors alike. 

sculpturebythelakes.co.uk

JUPITER 

ARTLAND, 

EDINBURGH 

Jupiter Artland has 

an expansive outdoor 

sculpture collection featuring 

site-specific artworks 

commissioned from some of 

the world's most renowned 

artists to Antony Gormley, 

Anish Kapoor, Cornelia Parker 

and Marc Quin. Their latest 

permanent commission, 

Gateway, by Portuguese 

artist Joana Vasconcelos is 

an artwork integrated in a 

whimsical pool garden. The 

piece includes patterns from 

her own astrological chart 

into the design of the artwork, 

which is made of 11,366 

hand-painted and glazed 

tiles crafted using traditional 

methods at a 100-year-old 

factory in Vasconcelos’ native 

Portugal. 

jupiterartland.org 


FOLKESTONE TRIENNIAL, 

KENT 

Fifteen installations from the 2017 Folkestone 

Triennial Festival have been rehomed around 

Folkestone. Expect to see pieces by Antony 

Gormley, David Shrigley and Lubaina Himid. 

One of the new acquisitions Bill Woodrow’s The 

Ledge - a white steel sculpture of an Inuit figure 

and a seal on a thin layer of ice - showcases his 

concerns about climate change. Visitors can 

also expect to see works by the likes of Tracey 

Emin, Yoko Ono and Cornelia Parker. 

creativefolkestone.org.uk/folkestonetriennial 

YORKSHIRE SCULPTURE 

PARK, YORKSHIRE 

In an open-air gallery in West Bretton 

near Wakefield in West Yorkshire, you can 

find a wonderful selection of work by both 

British and international artists such as 

Barbara Hepworth and Henry Moore. In 

fact, Moore’s impressive selection of bronzes 

is one of the largest open-air displays of his 

work in Europe. Their most recent display 

'David Smith: Sculpture 1932-1965' features 

40 pieces by this pioneering and highly 

influential American artist. 

ysp.org.uk 

CHIHULY AT KEW 

GARDENS, LONDON 

Renowned US glass artist, Dale Chihuly 

is back at Kew Gardens with Chihuly: 

Reflections on Nature. This ethereal 

outdoor exhibition is made up of 32 

spectacular installations which includes 

a new piece of work which has been 

specifically designed for the newly opened 

Temperate House. Visitors can also 

expect to see the Seaforms Series and his 

intriguing installation Sapphire Star. 

kew.org/kew-gardens 


THE TREATMENT 

ROOMS, CHISWICK 

Known as the UK’s unique 

mosaic house, this fascinating 

artistic masterpiece is the result 

of a project that began in the 90s 

by artist Carrie Reichardt, who 

has quite literally covered her 

house (and studio) top to bottom 

in colourful mosaic tiles! Hidden 

away on a quiet, suburban street 

in Chiswick, you can even book 

the top of the house for the night, 

available to rent on Airbnb. 

airbnb.co.uk 

PLUS DON’T 

MISS… 

FRIEZE SCULPTURE 

LONDON'S LARGEST 

DISPLAY OF 

OUTDOOR ART, 

CURRENTLY ON SHOW 

IN REGENT'S PARK 

UNTIL 6 OCTOBER 

2019, WITH FREE 

ADMISSION TO ALL 

RHS GARDEN WISLEY, 

SURREY 

What do you get if you take a selection 

of exciting sculptures with an intriguing 

array of exotic plants? The Sculpture Trail 

at RHS Garden Wisley of course! Now in 

its 22nd year, the sculptures range from 

abstract to traditional pieces that have 

been created from a wide selection of 

materials including bronze, resin, wood, 

metal, glass, stone and found objects. 

rhs.org.uk/gardens/wisley 


PICTURE CREDITS: MARK BAKER, © RHS / PAUL DEBOIS

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#forthespirited @silentpoolgin

VICTUALS 

W H A T ' S N E W 

Restaurants | Food | Drink | Hotels 

SPIRIT OF DISCOVERY 

Britain's newest luxury cruise ship is here. 

Newly built boutique cruise ship, Spirit of 

Discovery is the first vessel to be named at 

the Port of Dover for over a decade. 

travel.saga.co.uk/cruises 

THE UK’S FIRST 100% VEGAN HOTEL OPENS IN PITLOCHRY 

Offering travellers the opportunity to experience the Scottish Highlands without compromising on 

their ethics, Saorsa Hotel has launched as the UK’s first 100% vegan hotel. Catering to both vegans and 

those interested in plant-based lifestyles, the hotel is entirely free from animal products from check-in 

to departure. Victorian-era baronial house, built in 1875, has undergone a complete refurbishment, 

everything from the bedding and toiletries to the cleaning products used by staff have been redesigned 

to create a boutique, luxurious and welcoming experience for ethical travellers. saorsahotel.com 

LEAD FROM THE FRONT 

Brompton Bikes has joined forces with 

London's Corinthia Hotel offering guests 

the chance to explore the capital without 

adding to the Co2 levels. 

corinthia.com/london 

N E W 

A SLICE OF CAKE 

Don't miss Macmillan’s World’s Biggest Coffee 

Morning, Friday 27 September when more than 

200,000 people take part in a day dedicated 

to cuppas and cakes, while raising vital funds. 

coffee.macmillan.org.uk 

TOWN AND COUNTRY 

With staycations on the rise, we love the four-night 

Town & Country package from a collaboration 

between Britain’s first-ever country club, Stoke Park 

and Dukes London, Mayfair, from £2575 for two. 

dukeshotel.com 

We love this new cookbook from The Pig: 

Tales and Recipes from the Kitchen Garden 

and Beyond by Robin Hutson, published 

by Octopus Publishing, priced £30. 

octopusbooks.co.uk 


Top places for 

FORAGING 

From spectacular coastlines to country bounds, we hope you 

enjoy our eight best places to discover Britain’s wild larder 

Words | Chantal Borciani 

1FAT HEN,CORNWALL 

Voted one of the top 50 cookery schools in the UK 

by The National Cookery School Guide, professional 

forager, ecologist and cook, Caroline Davey runs 

cookery courses that celebrate seasonal produce and 

the staggeringly beautiful expanses of West Cornwall. 

There’s a fantastic range to choose from including 

gourmet wild food weekends, vegan foraging, seaweed 

discovery days, and hook, cook and catch fishing 

feasts. Or combine a love for cycling with sustainable 

harvesting on a Wild Food Cycling Day. 

fathen.org 


2FORAGING 

IN 

FROME 

Explore hidden Somerset idylls with Robin 

Harford, a plant-based forager, ethnobotanical 

researcher, and wild food educator. Guests 

will harvest a bounty of edible flora around 

beautiful Frome before returning to the kitchen 

to enjoy delicious dishes created by world-class 

chefs. London, Devon, Sussex and Dorset 

courses also available. From £50 per person. 

foragingcourses.com

3 4 

THE ANGEL HOTEL, 

ABERGAVENNY 

Enjoy an overnight foraging break at The Angel Hotel 

nestled near the Brecon Beacons. Guests will enjoy a 

three-hour guided foraging tour, in collaboration with 

the Brecon Beacons Foraging Company, and learn the 

fundamentals of wild plant identification. Then devise 

delicious dishes and drinks from the array of products 

found moments from the hotel’s front door. 

From £243 based on two people sharing, includes 

accommodation, breakfast, foraging experience and 

a 3-course meal. 

angelabergavenny.com 

LLYS MEDDYG, 

PEMBROKESHIRE 

This cosy hostelry in Newport, a stone’s throw 

from the Nevern estuary and located within the 

Pembrokeshire Coast National Park, runs day 

seashore and country foraging courses where guests 

can visit breathtaking local beaches, rivers, woods 

and mountain passes. Discover seasonal gems, go 

picking in the hedgerows, gather your 

finds and then prepare a feast of foraged goodies. 

Day course £75. £25 for children aged 12-16. 

llysmeddyg.com 



5 6 

FORAGING FORTNIGHT, 

SCOTLAND 

The inaugural Foraging Fortnight celebrates Scotland’s 

bounty of wild food, flavours and traditions. From 

wild food feasts and shore walks to foraging treks, 

fireside evenings and festivals, events will take place 

across Fife, Moray, Lanarkshire, Orkney and the Forth 

Valley and Lomond from 31 August to 15 September. In 

Orkney, a series of Foraging Fortnight events are taking 

place as part of Orkney International Science Festival 

from 5 – 11 September, with foraging stars Zeki Basan 

and Anna Canning leading foraging walks and talks 

about areas our ancestors foraged 5,000 years ago. 

foragingfortnight.co.uk 

FOREST SIDE, LAKE 

DISTRICT 

Head out to the wilds and wonders of the Lake 

District with Forest Side’s head chef Kevin Tickle. Ex 

head forager at Simon Rogan’s acclaimed L’Enclume 

restaurant, Kevin has an encyclopedic knowledge 

and life-long passion for sourcing edible produce 

direct from the fields, fell tops, coast and woodland 

of the Cumbrian landscape. Set in the countryside of 

Wordsworth’s beloved Grasmere, Forest Side has 20 

beautiful contemporary bedrooms and provides the 

ideal foodie escape in the Lakes. 

Foraging breaks booked by request. 

theforestside.com 


7 8 

ST MICHAEL'S MOUNT 

Take a walk along this iconic Cornish causeway to St 

Michael’s Mount with wild food expert Emma Gunn 

and forage for a multitude of seaweeds including sea 

lettuce, Japanese wireweed, dabberlocks, sugar kelp, 

dulse, and bladderwrack. On the Mount, guests will 

search for native wild berries, sorrel, nettles, silverweed, 

daisies, dandelions, cleavers, dock, plantain, three 

cornered leek, and honeysuckle, to name a few, and 

finish the day with a delicious picnic, created by the 

St Michael’s Mount Head Chef Greg Milne. Suitable 

for ages eight and up. £30. 15 September and 29 

September. Dates for 2020 to be confirmed. 

stmichaelsmount.co.uk 


HAMBLETON HALL 

Luxury hotel Hambleton Hall in Rutland 

hosts its mushroom hunt every autumn 

in the private woodland of Burley Wood. 

Mycologist Paul Nichol is on hand to identify 

the myriad fungi and the day is topped off 

with a three-course lunch at the hotel. A 

stunning 17-bedroom sanctuary, Hambleton 

Hall boasts a Michelin-starred restaurant 

overlooking Rutland Water, one of the 

most important wildfowl sanctuaries in the 

UK. £90pp. 5 October. 2020 dates to be 

confirmed. 

prideofbritainhotels.com

Smithycroft, Somerset 

Find your special place 

From quintessential cottages and country houses 

to quirky windmills and lighthouses. 

A portfolio of over 

500 luxury, self-catering 

holiday properties 

in the UK and Ireland. 

View the properties 

ruralretreats.co.uk 

Call for our brochure 

01386 897 959

15 

of the best 

Luxury stays 

FOR LARGE 

GROUPS 

BRITISH 

TRAVEL 

JOURNAL 

Loves... 

SURREY RHAPSODY A utopia of surreal garden sculptures, topsyturvy 

architecture and glass-like pools, Rhapsody has fallen head first through the 

rabbit hole and landed in the heart of Wonderland. Settled in the Surrey countryside and with a 

raucous history of revelry, this luxury rural escape, with outdoor heated swimming pool, yoga hut 

and sunken hot tub, is a self-catering retreat worthy of any Mad Hatter’s tea party. Sleeps up to 12, 

priced from £13,500 per week, £9,250 per short break. rhapsody.uniquehomestays.com 

NORFOLK THE OLD RECTORY 

A truly magnificent 8-bedroom property with games 

room, tennis courts and manicured grounds. Priced 

from £2080 per short break. barefootretreats.co.uk 

WEST SUSSEX 

HOUND LODGE 

At Hound Lodge, in the midst 

of Goodwood's spectacular 

12,000-acre estate, life flows at a 

different pace. This magnificent 

10-bedroom country retreat is 

yours to experience in its entirety, 

offering a rare opportunity to 

spend time away from it all 

and escape the hectic pace of 

modern life. Up to 20 guests, poa. 

goodwood.com/stay-dine-relax 

NORFOLK STONES THROW 

A chic Victorian holiday retreat over four floors, 

moments from the beach. Sleeps up to 12 people, priced 

from £1045 per week. originalcottages.co.uk 

DEVON 

HUNTSHAM COURT 

Huntsham Court is an historic 

private hire country estate with 

a manor house and gardens 

and a relaxed ethos. Situated 

in the beautiful rolling Devon 

countryside on the borders of 

the Exmoor National Park and 

close to Somerset. Sleeping 

from 10 up to 92 people across 

40 luxury bedrooms! 

huntshamcourt.co.uk 


SOUTH DORSET 

THE LINDENS 

The Lindens is a beautifully 

renovated 18th century manor 

house which lies within the 

peaceful and pretty village of 

East Lulworth, a stone’s throw 

from the majestic Lulworth 

Castle, the idyllic Lulworth 

Cove and iconic rock arch 

of Durdle Door. One of two 

new 'manors' from Lulworth 

Estate’s holiday cottages, The 

Lindens has been luxuriously 

renovated to offer a unique 

escape for large groups, 

staying on England’s first and 

only natural UNESCO World 

Heritage site. 

The ‘manors’ accommodate 

up to 18 people, start at £40 

per person per night for full 

occupancy during low season. 

lulworth.com/stay/the-lindens 

CORNWALL 

TREVENEK 

Set within the verdant headland 

of Mawgan Porth, just a short 

walk to the popular surfing 

beach, Trevenek is a stunning 

holiday home with games room 

balcony, BBQ and dining table. 

Sleeps 8-10 people. Priced from 

£2,990 per week, £2790 

per short break. 

perfectstays.co.uk/property/ 

trevenek 

THE COTSWOLDS 

ASTLEY MANOR 

A beautiful historic manor house, close 

to Stow-on-the-Wold, with tennis court 

and croquet lawn, lake and hot tub, as well 

as the immaculate vegetable garden and 

orchard. Indoors there's a cinema room and 

8 beautifully designed bedrooms in a classic 

English country home style. Set in stunning 

mature gardens this is the perfect pick for a 

quintessentially English week away. Sleeps up 

to 15 people, prices from £10,225 per week. 

luxurycotswoldrentals.co.uk 

WORCESTERSHIRE BROAD 

MEADOWS FARMHOUSE 

Queen Anne style property dates back to the 

1690s Sleeps up to 12 people. Priced from £1,510 

for 3 nights ruralretreats.co.uk 

NORTHUMBERLAND NEWFIELD 

HOUSE A glamorous mansion with full-size 

heated indoor pool, hot tub, sauna, steam room, 

bar and cinema room. Sleeps up to 14 people. Priced 

from £3625 for 7 nights coquetcottages.co.uk 


KNIGHTSBRIDGE PENTHOUSE 

Overlooking a quiet residential street close to the 

designer shops and restaurants of Knightsbridge. 

Sleeps 6, £2000 per night. capitalhotel.co.uk 

MAYFAIR TOWN HOUSE A spacious 

five bedroom immaculately presented and beautifully 

furnished ambassadorial town house. Sleeps up to 10 

people, prices on application. carltoncourt.com 

THE COTSWOLDS, LAKES BY YOO GLASSHOUSE 

A unique home with a 100% glass façade. The house is sitting in the lake distinguishing it from 

any other house on the Lakes by Yoo estate, and most likely also from any other house in the UK! 

Offering luxurious "outside in living" , the architecture evokes the feeling of living outdoors in 

almost every corner of the property. Up to 12 guests, poa. thelakesbyyoo.com 

WEST SUSSEX 

COWDRAY HOUSE 

Rolling hills and open skies are not the only 

features which make Cowdray House a 

wonderful location. Set in 110 acres of private 

gardens, grounds and parkland, Cowdray 

House is a spectacular venue for exclusiveuse 

hire. It was home to the Estate’s original 

polo field, commonly referred to as the 

House Ground, and guests today can enjoy 

polo lessons during their stay. Sleeps up to 44 

guests, prices on application 

cowdray.co.uk 

NORTHUMBERLAND 

THE COOKIE JAR 

Formerly the Convent of Mercy for over 120 

years, The Cookie Jar, located on the cobbled 

streets of Bailiffgate, adjacent to Alnwick 

Castle, has been beautifully renovated 

into a charming 11-bedroom hotel. Perfect 

for shooting, golfing or fishing parties, and 

for relaxing after a busy day, there’s the 

resident’s lounge serving pre-dinner cocktails 

and afternoon tea, The Bistro, and heated 

terrace and walled garden. Bedrooms boast 

drench showers, Penhaligon’s toiletries as 

BRITISH 

TRAVEL 

JOURNAL 

Loves... 

well as a welcome jar of freshly baked cookies! 

Much of the properties character and original 

features have been retained, with room types and 

names riffing on the building's religious heritage; 

'Mother Superior' suites have oversized "heavenly" 

bathtubs, while 'The Chapel' is "the Mother 

of all Superiors" with a beautiful stained glass 

circular window and other features from its earlier 

incarnation as the convent's chapel. Sleeps up to 22 

guests, priced from £175 per room/per night 

cookiejaralnwick.com/whole-jar 


a real treat of A retreat 

The Cookie Jar, Alnwick’s newest boutique hotel 

and your cosy retreat. Formerly the Convent 

of Mercy, this historic building has been tastefully 

renovated into 11 luxurious rooms and suites, 

and offers all the home comforts you could 

ever need with an added little bit of 

unexpected cookie-ness. 

It’s the perfect spot for that special private event 

or a weekend escape from the city. We look 

forward to welcoming you. 

To book call: 01665 510 465 

or email: hello@cookiejaralnwick.com 

www.cookiejaralnwick.com 

12 Bailiffgate, Alnwick NE66 1LU 

/CookieJarAl /TheCookieJarAlnwick /thecookiejaralnwick 

0111_Cookie_Travel journal advert_half page.indd 1 28/08/2019 17:01 

01665 710700 coquetcottages.co.uk 

Discover Northumberland this Autumn and 

make lasting memories in the finest collection 

of award winning family-friendly & petfriendly 

holiday homes on the coast 

Creative | Connected | People 

Exclusive Travel Experiences in the UK & Ireland 

www.dreamescape.co.uk 

enquiries@dreamescape.co.uk | 0845 260 1085

H O T E L R E V I E W 

MONKEY ISLAND 

Discover riverside delights at Monkey Island Estate near 

Bray, an island idyll, less than an hour from London 

Words | Chantal Borciani 

FEW ESTATES CAN claim to be built upon the historical 

DNA of a nation, yet after the 1666 Great Fire of London 

barges scattered rubble from the capital's reconstruction 

onto Monkey Island in Berkshire, laying the foundations 

for this riverside retreat. 

The small island, set near the pretty village of Bray on the 

Thames River, in fact dates back to around 1197 when local 

monks christened it Monks Eyot – one possible root of the 

estate’s moniker – however, it was the ruins from the Great Fire 

of London that raised the isle above flood level thus making it 

IMAGE © ISABELLE PLASSCHAERT / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO 


possible to build upon. The 3rd Duke of Marlborough 

fell in love with the riverside plot and in 1723 created 

an idyllic angling retreat on the island with a twostorey 

Fishing Temple and octagonal Fishing Pavilion 

commissioned from Palladian architect Robert Morris. 

Despite changing hands and guises over the 

centuries, the Temple and Pavilion survived and today 

the stunning Grade I listed buildings remain the 

backbone of Monkey Island Estate. 

Now under the ownership of the YTL Group, 

Monkey Island Estate opened as a new luxury 

boutique hotel earlier this year following a three and 

half year restoration. Located 35 minutes by train 

from Paddington Station, the luxury estate may be 

conveniently located but feels a world away from the 

city. River charm runs deep here and guests can even 

arrive by boat – the hotel’s private wooden launch, 

Dragonfly, will pluck you from the nearby quays at 

Windsor, Cliveden, Marlow and just about anywhere in 

between. à 


R E G A L R O A M I N G 

The hotel offers 41 bedrooms and its elegant, refined design 

is the calling card of New York-based Champalimaud Design, 

which also has The Dorchester and The Gainsborough to its 

name. 

Most guest rooms are located in the Temple building where a 

couple of the larger suites also boast balconies and terraces. The 

pièce de résistance, however, is The Wedgewood Suite, which 

occupies the original building and boasts magnificent near-360° 

views of lawns and riverbanks. Its spectacular ceiling features 

Neptune, shells and mermaids in high relief Wedgewood blue 

plasterwork and feels regal in every sense of the word. Guests 

warmed by quintessential British touches will delight in the 

stunning bone china tea set, dark panelling, historic portraiture, 

and semi-canopied bed. Modern luxuries also abound with cloudsoft 

linen, a river-view roll-top bath, vast waterfall shower, and 

fragrant Aromatherapy Associate toiletries. 

Monarchs, aristocrats, literary icons and a multitude of famous 

names from war poet Siegfried Sassoon to HG Wells have enjoyed 

river life at Monkey Island over the past 800 years and the hotel 

proudly celebrates its legacy. 

A 1905 photograph on display shows Edward VII enjoying 

afternoon tea under the island’s walnut trees and on arrival 

moreish orange and walnut brownie slices await us, giving 

another nod to the hotel's rich history. The brownies are made by 

executive chef William Hemming using a traditional recipe dating 

back centuries to the time when the island was home to orange 

and walnut trees. Accompanying the delectable goodies is an 

embossed card with a quote from Frances Countess of Hertford 

writing in 1738 of the island’s horticulture. 

Historical touches such as a these are frequent and engaging, 

ensuring every guest’s stay is intertwined with the island’s fascinating 

story. 

On our side table, a complimentary gin elixir makes the perfect 

sundowner to recline with as we relish the Wedgewood Suite and 

its views of the gardens and flowing river. The elixir pays homage 

to the monks’ centuries-old tradition of making potions and 

remedies using botanicals. This monastical connection continues 

at the hotel’s brand new Floating Spa. Located on a custom-made 

river barge moored alongside the hotel gardens, The Floating 

Spa has three treatment rooms and draws inspiration from the 

monks’ homemade botanical tinctures and celebrates a time 

when apothecaries would use barges to ship medicinal herbs up 

and down the bustling River Thames. A host of five-star facials 

and massages are on offer, and homemade elixirs are stored in a 

collection of wonderful bell jars at the spa’s ‘Elixir Bar’ – the onriver 

setting only serves to increase the blissfully soporific vibe. à 


RIVER WONDER 

Retaining a wonderfully natural, meadow-like feel, the 

hotel’s flower beds are sown with cascades of wild flowers 

while the fresh-cut lawns extend out to the water’s edge. 

Wild geese saunter past and the two riverfront terraces are 

ideal for enjoying the tranquil surroundings, perhaps with a 

Monkey Island Pilsner in hand. 

Across the small main lawn, guests can explore the 

hotel’s herb garden, where botanicals are grown for the 

spa’s tinctures and some kitchen produce. There’s also a 

smokehouse, which produces some of the most delicately 

flavoured and delicious smoked salmon I’ve tasted. The 

charming tea room greenhouse will soon provide the hotel 

with its own signature blends, three beehives deliver the 

gooey honeycomb for breakfast and a chicken coop houses 

the hotel’s resident flock. 

Guests can collect their own eggs for breakfast should 

they wish to and in true Monkey Island Estate style the 

chickens are named after the famous ladies of the property: 

Vicky, after Queen Victoria who used one of the island’s 

cottages for her lady in waiting; Maggie, after Princess 

Margaret who would attend the exclusive Oxfam Ball on 

the island during the 1960s and Alexandra, after Queen 

Alexandra who picnicked with King Edward on the island. 

Across the small footbridge, the hotel has three country 

chic and beautifully restored cottages on site (there are three 

more in the village centre), which are perfectly suited to larger 

groups. As always, history is never far from hand, with one 

of the cottages having played host to Edward Elgar when he 

stayed at Monkey Island. The composer famously worked 

on his First Symphony and the same cottage would, decades 

later, also become former British Formula One racing driver 

Sir Stirling Moss’s home. 

The island’s Pavilion is home to the hotel’s other public 

spaces. In the Monkey Room, original 17th Century frescos 

adorn the ceilings – restorers found scraps of the original 

paintings strewn around the property and spent eight months 

restoring the historic murals that may have also played a part 

in the naming of the island. A newly built bar and brasserie 

overlook the river and gardens. On the top floor, a 12-seater 

whisky snug and bar provides a cosy winter setting. 

The brasserie, open to both hotel guests and visitors, is 

very reasonably priced for Bray and boasts a fantastic river 

locale. The alfresco waterfront terrace is a perfect spot for 

lunch, afternoon tea or dinner during the summer and the 

interior has a relaxed bistro with floor to ceiling windows 

and French doors that keep those river views coming. The 

menu celebrates local and seasonal British produce. 

Dinner highlights included that house-smoked salmon, the 

Cornish catch of the day, and British lamb on black pudding. 

Breakfast is a time to savour – both the festoon of freshly 

baked pastries – and the surroundings – watching little motor 

boats pootle by as the river wakes up. 

“When we 

returned 

to our 

suite after 

dark, two 

miniature 

flower pots 

filled with 

velvety 

ganache and 

chocolate 

soil were 

left as extra 

treats, 

together 

with a 

parting gift 

of a packet 

of wildflower 

seeds – to 

help us 

recreate 

that Monkey 

Island 

ambience at 

home.” 

BRAY AND STAY 

Part of Monkey Island estate’s undeniable allure is its 

setting and unique experience. Guests can enjoy a picnic 

cruise, sunset trip or pre-dinner sail aboard Dragonfly. 

The stunning launch can also ferry you to and from 

Henley – perhaps for the Regatta come summer, to 

Windsor for dinner or a day trip, upriver to the Roux's 

legendary three Michelin-star Waterside Inn, to Marlow 

for lunch at Tom Kerridge’s restaurants, or to nearby 

Cliveden or Eton Dorney. For larger celebrations, three 

riverboats can be hired. On the island’s lawn, a clutch 

of handcrafted bespoke Shepherd’s Huts provide guests 

with the ultimate star-gazing experience. Take a seat 

by the fire pits with a blanket come nightfall, toast 

marshmallows at the huts’ fire pits and snuggle down 

with a boozy hot chocolate, looking skyward to spot the 

stars on a clear night. 

Small touches, too, make for memorable stays. 

When we returned to our suite after dark, two miniature 

flower pots filled with velvety ganache and chocolate 

soil were left as extra treats, together with a parting gift 

of a packet of wildflower seeds – to help us recreate that 

Monkey Island ambience at home. And our turndown 

service was accompanied with another embossed card, 

this time with a quote by ex-resident Edward Elgar, and 

was left with a sprig of fresh lavender and deep sleep 

pillow spray. 

Whether fascinated by history or in search of a luxury 

escape a stone's throw from the capital, Windsor and 

Marlow, Monkey Island Estate has stories and offerings 

in abundance. The added bonus of having Bray's 

exceptional foodie hotspots on the doorstep – Heston 

Blumenthal’s three Michelin-star Fat Duck sits in the 

centre of the village alongside his one Michelin-star 

coaching inn The Hind’s Head – means there's even more 

reason to extend a stay. u 


CarltonCourtMayfair 

10 Down Street, Mayfair, London 

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Home to some of the most spectacular landscapes 

the country has to offer, the Cotswolds will take 

your breath away with its idyllic villages and beautiful 

lakes as well as the endless number of activities 

and things to do all year round. With self-catering 

lakeside accommodation in the heart of the Cotswolds, 

you’ll enjoy everything this part of England has to 

offer. Many of our holiday properties are dog-friendly 

whilst the Cotswold Water Park has activities for 

the entire family to enjoy including fishing, water 

sports, cycling, swimming or just relaxing in your 

private hot tub or at one of the onsite spas. 

Book your holiday online at orionholidays.com or give us a call on 01285 861 839

48 

hours in 

ALDERNEY 

From a Roman fort to uncrowded beaches, sense the magic in Alderney, 

a warm, peaceful and relaxing escape in the Channel Islands, where you 

can fully unwind. Breathe, relax, and enjoy “the Alderney feeling” 

Words | Jessica Way 


Braye Beach

DON’T GO TO ALDERNEY. You won’t like it. In fact, 

don’t even read my article, and I hope you have a 

great staycation elsewhere on the British Isles! I wish 

I could keep this up, but of course, I’m joking. The 

truth is, as anyone who follows me on Instagram will know, 

I adored my weekend break in Alderney. In fact I enjoyed it 

so much that I feel hesitant in sharing my experience of this 

charming island, for fear that word will get out, and that one 

day the island might change. 

Alderney is the third-largest of the Channel Islands, behind 

Jersey and Guernsey, located 8 miles from France, and 60 

miles from the UK. One of the less-visited Islands, Alderney is 

still refreshingly uncommercialised – but with modern luxuries, 

beautiful beaches and sumptuous accommodation – offering 

a unique holiday experience to, in my opinion, rival any of the 

other more popular islands. 

As the closest of the Channel Islands to the south coast of 

Great Britain Aurigny Air Services (aurigny.com) offers direct 

flights from Southampton in just 40 minutes. Ideal for me, 

living just a 10-minute drive from Southampton Airport, and 

made getting to the island a breeze. Flights from other airports 

require a transfer in the small, friendly airport on Guernsey, so 

a little more complicated, maybe, but ultimately still worth it to 

experience this hidden gem. 

Alderney’s simple way of life and breathtaking scenery 

provides the space to reflect and feel blissfully rejuvenated 

– complete escapism from our modern world. There are no 

crowds, no queues, and no traffic - just fresh air, incredible 

wildlife, an abundance of flora and fauna, and around 50 miles 

of footpaths and ancient trails to explore. The historic town of 

St Anne, intriguing Roman forts and Victorian defences are 

fascinating - and the island naturally lends itself to an outdoor 

lifestyle, kayaking, hiking, cycling, swimming. à 


You don’t just visit Alderney - you feel a connection with 

the island. The unspoilt, wild landscape, magnificent 

coastal views and beautiful beaches dotted around the 

10-mile perimeter are utterly enchanting. You can’t help 

but relax and completely unwind as you marvel over the 

architecture, or investigate the many historic forts. 

Every day on Alderney is an adventure – even for 

the locals. Some who had lived there for years, told us 

they still find hidden gems (even bays!) they never knew 

existed. They are living in paradise – and so are their 

children. Alderney has the only school in the British Isles 

where children take their swimming lessons in the sea! 

There’s a family-run farm providing the entire island 

with delightful local produce, a cinema, starry skies, 

various events running throughout the year – and that’s 

not to mention blonde-haired hedgehogs and blue 

letterboxes - I mean what more could you want? 

It’s truly unique – and the community spirit is 

unparalleled. The magic touched me with, as they 

describe it, “The Alderney Feeling”. 

DAY ONE 

Just a 5-10-minute transfer from the airport took us to 

our hotel (you can walk it in around 20 minutes), The 

Victoria, conveniently located at the bottom of Victoria 

Street, in the ‘capital’, Saint Anne. It’s a perfect location, 

close to all the action and within easy reach of the 

coastline and main sites of the island. 

Our lovely host, Ally couldn’t have made us feel any 

more welcome, and inside was beautifully light and airy, 

with coastal-themed interiors, home-from-home touches 

and contemporary charm. Sister-hotel, The Georgian (on 

the same street opposite The Victoria) looked every bit as 

attractive and inviting, and is another excellent holiday 

option. (thevictoria.gg) 

Close by our hotel was Cycle & Surf, the shop where 

we had pre-booked our electric bikes. Andrew, who runs 

“You don’t 

just visit 

Alderney - 

you feel a 

connection 

with the 

island. The 

unspoilt, 

wild 

landscape, 

magnificent 

coastal 

views and 

beautiful 

beaches 

are utterly 

enchanting.” 

the shop with his wife Kathy, was fabulous. They have 

turned this essential hire shop into an island gem, 

with the latest top-of-the-range electric bikes, and a 

range of designer and casual wear - all very reasonably 

priced. I walked in to see a floaty beach dress, jumper 

and lace t-shirt I couldn’t resist. (cycleandsurf.co.uk) 

It was time for lunch. We strolled up along the 

cobbled street to Le pesked, the only French restaurant 

on Alderney, and we were in luck. The Alderney Food 

and Drink Festival had started, and, as a lunchtime 

special, the fabulous Brittany chef David Ollivrin was 

serving up five dishes for two, for just £20. The food, 

made from local produce, was delicious. My personal 

favourites included the Alderney Crab Spring Roll in 

plum sauce, Moules and Marinated Pork Brochette. 

Re-fuelled, we met at the bottom of Victoria Street 

for our Round-the-Island tour with Alderney Tours, led 

by John Horton, the Island Bird Observatory Warden 

(as seen on BBC Countryfile and CH4 Little British 

Islands). This two-hour minibus tour is the perfect 

introduction, offering the opportunity to learn about 

the geography, history and wildlife, and to get your 

bearings of where everything is, before heading out on 

your self-guided explorations. 

John is the perfect tour guide, professional, 

knowledgeable – and with a great sense of humour. 

But, like many of the Islanders we met, it’s not his only 

day-job. John’s passion for birds and wildlife is what 

led him to take a career break as a Metropolitan Police 

Officer to establish the Channel Isles first accredited 

bird observatory – where numbers and variety of birds 

soon far exceeded expectation. Just a couple of à 


Pictured top-left 

to bottom-right: 

Fort Houmet 

Herbe; Jessica 

looking out across 

to Fort Houmet 

Herbé; The 

Victoria, Hotel; 

Pepperpot and 

Longis Beach; and 

Fort Tourgis 


Pictured above in a clockwise direction: Alderney cliffs opposite Les Etacs; Looking out across 

Longis Bay from a bunker in 'The Nunnery'; Alderney gannets; Hard hat tour of the new luxury hotel, 

'The Blonde Hedgehog'; 'The Nunnery'. Opposite page: The Georgian, sister-hotel to The Victoria. 

Just a couple of weeks into the job, John 

observed a group of 16 Ring Ouzels coming 

to rest on the fourth green of the golf course, 

adjacent to the observatory. He thought: 

“This is going to be awesome!” 


weeks into the job, John observed a group of 16 Ring 

Ouzels coming to rest on the fourth green of the golf 

course, adjacent to the observatory. He thought: “This 

is going to be awesome!” 

And it has been an enormous success. One of John’s 

first bird-ringing sessions resulting in the recording of 

over 40 Firecrests! Alderney has established itself as an 

important place for migrating birds – one of the most 

exciting islands in Britain for seeing and monitoring 

birds, both in migratory transit and in seeking 

undisturbed nesting sites. 

We stood at the headquarters of the Alderney Bird 

Observatory, based in ‘The Nunnery’ – the bestpreserved 

small Roman fort in Britain. “With such huge 

historical importance, the plan is to develop this into a 

publically-accessible heritage site” John explained as we 

admired the surviving walls of this impressive fort. 

John lives at the lighthouse, just a short walk from 

‘The Nunnery’, juggling his roles as tour guide and bird 

warden. He seemed equally passionate about both, 

telling the group no two days are the same. 

John dropped us back at Cycle & Surf, where our 

electric bikes were waiting – ready to take us back up 

Victoria Street to meet another of the locals. 

General Manager, Tracey Farquhar-Beck had 

offered to give us a hard-hat tour of new luxury hotel 

‘The Blonde Hedgehog’ (think Soho House and The 

Pig Hotels) opening this September. Encircled by the 

quiet cobblestoned streets of Saint Anne, the hotel is 

composed of three buildings, The Blonde Hedgehog, 

Clarence House (next door), and The Corner House 

(opposite). 

Tracey told us the back story. Owner Julie-Anne, 

business entrepreneur and founder of charity Zamcog, is 

opening her first hotel - along with the restaurant and a 

new butcher’s shop. Currently living in London, she will 

soon be relocating from London to live in Alderney and 

personally manage her island ventures. An investment 

welcomed by the locals - supportive of Julie-Anne and 

excited for the increased tourism more luxury hospitality 

on the island might bring. 

We had some time to relax back at The Victoria, 

reflect on our day - and share our enthusiasm for the 

special place we felt so fortunate to have discovered, 

before heading out for dinner over the road at The 

Georgian. 

The ground-floor of The Georgian offers a great 

option for a pre-dinner drink, or relaxed dining, with the 

cosy warmth of a traditional pub, or head upstairs, as 

we did, to enjoy the refinement of The Orangery, with 

more of a fine-dining feel, ambient music, candles and 

elegantly dressed tables. 

In contrast to the bar, The Orangery restaurant is 

light, airy and contemporary, with beautiful, modern 

landscape paintings adding vibrant colours to the white 

walls. The windows slide open to the full width of the 

building - showcasing a panorama of mature island trees 

in their immaculate Georgian terraced garden full of 

pretty wallflowers and hanging baskets. 

We ordered from their 2 Mile Menu, as the name 

suggests all ingredients (very) locally sourced. Our 

alfresco-style dining was made complete with a 

bottle of Sauvignon Blanc, tomato bruschetta, freshly 

caught Alderney scallops, and Kiln Farm Sirloin Steak 

with Georgian House melted butter. If only there had 

been time for dessert - we were booked on the Bat & 

Hedgehog walk with the Alderney Wildlife Trust - it 

would have been the Speculoos Cheesecake, or possibly 

the Affogato. (georgianalderney.com) 

Meeting point was at the Wildlife Trust shop, just 

a few doors up from The Georgian. Our expert guide, 

Roland Gauvain, then showed us how to use our bat 

detectors to search out bats as we wandered up Victoria 

Street and through the pretty Parish Church of Saint 

Anne. We find Pipistrelles - “just 4cm long but with a 

wingspan of 22cm” Roland explained. He was extremely 

knowledgeable about the life of bats, how they live, and 

their feeding cycles, I was surprised to learn they can eat 

up to 3000 midges in one night! 

As darkness fell, we began our search for Alderney’s 

famous blondes. With no foxes, badgers, stoats or 

weasels on the island to worry about, Alderney's rare 

blonde-haired hedgehogs thrive. With a population 

of around 600, they have dominated their brown 

equivalents. They are thought to originate from only 

a handful of pairs, brought to the island as pets in the 

1960s - and (if you believe the locals) released from a 

Harrods bag. We spotted a few snuffling about, the first 

all curled up, just a ball of blonde spines! à 


Others had their beautiful pink snouts on show - each one 

uniquely cute and charming. Some quietly scuttled away, 

while others didn’t seem too fussed about us at all. The 

islanders treat them like little kings (and queens) feeding 

them when they come to their gardens - perhaps one of 

the reasons they are doing so well. 

There are not many people who know more about our 

adorable British tiggywinkles than the Alderney Wildlife 

Trust - the island’s only organisation dedicated to the 

protection of the natural environment and local wildlife. 

Take part in one of their activities, walks or tours and 

your money will be put towards funding many essential 

projects in conserving their island. (alderneywildlife.org) 

DAY TWO 

Breakfast at The Victorian is excellent. Home prepared by 

Ally, made with local produce fresh from the fisherman or 

farm-to-fork and served in the pretty dining room. 

Choose from healthy smoothies, continental, 

porridge, pancakes, a full Victorian House breakfast – or 

pre-order for overnight oats, soaked apples, or (as I did) a 

grilled kipper with a poached egg. 

Alderney is about self-adventure, and, as Andrew 

from Cycle & Surf described it, “There’s nothing to do 

on Alderney, but there just isn’t enough time to do it 

all”. While Alderney might not have a tourism brochure 

packed with must-visit attractions and gift shops for its 

visitors, there was so much to go and see – to investigate 

- to explore. You could stay for weeks, months, years and 

still find somewhere new and exciting to spend a lazy day. 

The Victoria provided us with a delicious packed 

lunch, picnic-style, and off we went on our bikes - in 

search of our own slice of this Alderney magic. 

We had a map, but one of the things I liked best about 

Alderney was that we didn’t need it. The enjoyment is 

in following the paths and discovering places as you go. 

It’s easy to lose yourself in the natural beauty, enjoying 

Alderney is 

about selfadventure, 

and, as 

Andrew 

from Cycle 

& Surf 

described 

it, “There’s 

nothing 

to do on 

Alderney, 

but there 

just isn’t 

enough time 

to do it all.” 

the moment, and seeing where the day takes you. 

And with the coastline of never-ending stretches of 

white-gold beaches, never too far out of sight, you can 

always get back on track, if needed. 

Just 10 minutes into our journey and we came across 

a Blue Plaque - at the home where John Arlott, English 

journalist, author and famous cricket commentator for 

the BBC’s Test Match Special lived. 

There are several more Blue Plaques dotted across 

the island - you can even pick up a leaflet showing the 

Blue Plaque Trail. Other distinguished people who 

were born or lived in Alderney include John Wesley, 

Founder of Methodism; TH ‘Tim’ White, a writer best 

known for publishing “The Sword in the Stone” and 

author Elisabeth Beresford, famous for creating The 

‘Wombles’. 

I wonder if the island's adorable blonde hedgehogs 

could have inspired Elisabeth’s furry, long-nosed 

burrowing creatures (who lived peacefully under the 

parkland of Wimbledon Common, emerging secretly 

to clean up and repurpose the rubbish left behind by 

humans). 

After passing the cute 18 hole golf course, Alderney’s 

colourful puffin statue, and the ‘Nunnery’, we arrived 

at Mannez Lighthouse, where if you are visiting May to 

September tours are available every Sunday. 

Overlooking Fort Les Hommeaux Florains, with the 

sun shining and not a single soul in sight, we munched 

our way through our fresh crab sandwiches. The views 

were spectacular - easily one of the most peaceful 

picnics, just us and the birds, the gentle swashing of 

the waves below – one of the many highlights. à 


Pictured above-left in a clockwise direction: Alderney's Blonde 

Hedgehogs; Former home of John Arlott, on the Blue Plaque 

trail; Alderney's colourful puffin statue; Birdwatching from 

Breakwater harbour; Local produce; Mannez Lighthouse 


Pictured above in a clockwise direction: Jessica meets some of the locals at Saye Beach who regularly 

get-together for an early morning swim and warming brew; Saye beach, Alderney Puffins; Cantina 

Number 6; Gannets at Les Etacs. Opposite page: Stargazing at Fort Tourgis 

“We swam on Saye Beach, named as one of 

Countryfile’s Beaches of the Year, and met some 

of the locals who were brilliant fun - welcoming 

us whole-heartedly into their self-formed 

'Alderney Beach Swimming Club!'” 


C O O R D I N A T E S 

L A T I T U D E 4 9 . 7 7 1 5 5 º N 

L O N G I T U D E 2 . 2 0 7 6 º W 

PICTURE CREDITS: JESSICA'S OWN AND © VISITALDERNEY/ JAKE WOODNUTT/MARTIN BATT/JAKE WOODNUTT 

The north-east side of the island was my personal favourite, 

especially the beaches of Corblets Bay and Saye Bay. We swam at 

Saye Beach, named as one of Countryfile’s Beaches of the Year, and 

met some of the locals who were brilliant fun - welcoming us wholeheartedly 

into their self-formed 'Alderney Beach Swimming Club!' 

Sadly, it was time to head back as we had a boat tour booked, 

especially to see the puffins and the gannets. We got to the pontoon 

harbour meeting point where Roland from The Wildlife Trust, and 

the rest of our group, were gathering. 

The waters were a little choppy, but arriving at the isle of Burhou 

and seeing the puffins, one of the most iconic birds resident in the 

Channel Islands, made it all worth it. They live here from late March 

until early August, the only time they spend on land, until heading 

back to the sea for the rest of the year, out in the Atlantic. These 

colourful seabirds are instantly recognisable by their bright beaks. 

Sadly, puffins are now red-listed and classified as a vulnerable 

species. The Alderney Wildlife Trust monitor the population and help 

protect them from threats. 

Next stop was Gannet Rocks (Les Etacs), home to almost 6000 

pairs of Britain’s largest seabird! And we didn’t need the binoculars 

here to watch them swooping and diving from the shore, we were 

close enough to smell them, we could almost touch them - and what 

a display! Incredible, another holiday highlight for me. We chatted 

to the skipper, Bugsy, who we had earlier encountered in Victoria 

Street. As he is also the island’s resident fishmonger, I thanked him 

for my breakfast kipper! 

We finished a perfect day with dinner at Cantina Number 6, 

Braye Street. A cheerful restaurant with a brilliant blue front door 

and painted window frames, set against cream brickwork, desertstyle 

plant pots and rustic wooden sign. The Latin American vibe 

continued inside, guitars, retro numberplates and colourfully 

painted oars mounted on the wall, a trendy cocktail bar made from 

old tea box shipping containers, mosaic tiles, and ornate cushions. 

Earn hipster points by ordering a ‘Perfect Storm’ - their version of 

a ‘Dark and Stormy’ but with a special secret ingredient! From the 

kitchen, I enjoyed some fresh local oysters, Caribbean Fish Feast 

- polished off with a strawberry shortbread sundae. True to their 

garden-kitchen ethos, our waitress came in from the terrace door 

with some fresh mint leaves in her hand – a group of locals were 

enjoying her Mojitos. We were feeling the vibe here so, following a 

recommendation from our waitress, sipped on Espresso Martinis, 

outside on the balcony overlooking Braye Beach. 

Alderney is an ideal destination for a digital detox, story-bookstyle 

adventure, relaxing beach holiday, or all three rolled into one. 

With spectacular sunsets, sunrises, wildlife and stargazing, romantic 

moments are never too far away. It’s idyllic - and I found myself 

completely captivated by its charm. I discovered “the Alderney 

Feeling”, and I know I will return. u 

MAKE IT EXTRA SPECIAL 

Stargazing 

Alderney is an area unpolluted by artificial 

light and therefore shows off the night sky 

to its best advantage. In the evening Fort 

Tourgis is the recommended place to go and 

is easily accessible for views of the Milky Way 

and when shooting stars are often nightly 

events. With the island having a milder than 

average climate, it’s easy to grab a blanket 

and enjoy a few hours stargazing on this 

beautiful island. 

Afternoon Tea at Braye Beach Hotel 

Braye Beach Hotel is (currently) the only 4* 

hotel on Alderney, situated directly on Braye 

Beach - one of the best bays on the island. 

Non-guests are also welcome to enjoy their 

bar, restaurant and terrace area for morning 

coffee, a light lunch or early evening drink. 

For a romantic afternoon enjoy a sumptuous 

champagne afternoon tea in their signature 

Seaview Restaurant, to include freshly made 

salmon and prawn sandwiches, scones, 

cakes and chocolate delicacies. 

Drink coffee in Jack’s Brasserie 

A trendy stone brick coffee shop located 

on Victoria Street - directly opposite The 

Victoria. Recently taken over by Richard, 

formerly from the Braye Beach Hotel. He is a 

great character, full-of-life - and knows how 

to make an excellent coffee. Sit outside and 

relax in the sunshine. Also open for breakfast 

and lunch, or a cold beer and wine. 

GETTING THERE: 

FLY IN LESS THAN 1 HOUR 

FROM SOUTHAMPTON AIRPORT 

BY SEA IN JUST OVER AN 

HOUR FROM GUERNSEY OR 

NORMANDY 

Ü VISITALDERNEY.COM 


Do sEThiG 

MigT 

A fantastic series of fully supported, one-day hiking marathons all 

over the UK. Every Mighty Hike is easily accessible and will take 

you to some of the most beautiful and unspoiled parts of our country. 

Bring your family, bring your friends and take a step forward for people 

living with cancer. 

Find out more and sign up at 

macmillan.org.uk/mightyhikes 

Macmillan Cancer Support, registered charity in England and 

Wales (261017), Scotland (SC039907) and the Isle of Man (604). 

Also operating in Northern Ireland.

TAKE A JOURNEY 

S C O T L A N D 

Edinburgh | Pitlochry | The Highlands | Caledonian Forest 

© VISITSCOTLAND / KENNY LAM 

Travel through the heartland 

Take a journey with us through the heart of Scotland, starting in the buzzing capital of Edinburgh, 

Words | Melanie Abrams 

visiting Big Tree Country before reaching Inverness, The Highlands and the Caledonian Forest 

à 


Our journey begins. in 

EDINBURGH 

Scotland’s historic and spirited capital. The pavements of Edinburgh are 

thronged, day and night, with visitors, some lured by any of the many cultural 

events, some seeking to re-connect with their ancestral past and others simply 

content to stroll the streets admiring the unspoilt architecture 

Words | Adrian Mourby 

© VISITBRITAIN / ANDREW PICKETT / VISITSCOTLAND / KENNY LAM

TAKE A WALK THROUGH OLD TOWN 

Edinburgh from Calton Hill is one of the most-photographed 

images of the “Athens of the North”. In the foreground 

stands a neoclassical memorial to the Enlightenment 

philosopher, Dugald Stewart. 

Down below rises an eighteenth-century new town that 

Edinburgh’s idealists built once it was safe to expand beyond 

the ancient fortifications. Walk down Calton Hill onto Regent 

Road at sunset and the view before you is as rich as any oil 

painting. Beyond Waterloo Place and all the way down Princes 

Street, spire after spire rises in the orange glow. Nearest are 

the towers of the Balmoral Hotel, then the spire of the soaring 

memorial to Sir Walter Scott, and beyond them the steeples of 

six or seven churches heading west out of the city. 

By day the Scott Memorial dominates this side of 

Edinburgh. The great novelist sits larger than life, in carved 

white marble beneath a huge, blackened gothic canopy that 

is reminiscent of London’s Albert Memorial but 25 feet taller 

still. Scott’s novels did so much to reinvent Scottish identity and 

boost Scottish self-respect after the defeat of Bonnie Prince 

Charlie’s rebellious army in 1745. Surely Edinburgh is unique 

in having its main railway station – Waverley – named after 

a literary character? (Edward Waverley was the hero of Sir 

Walter’s first novel.) 

The memorial overlooks parkland that was once a loch at 

the base of Edinburgh castle. It’s situated on Princes Street, 

named after the future George IV who, as Prince Regent 

visited Edinburgh in 1819. George was deeply unpopular 

in England at the time of his journey north but as the first 

member of the British royal family to pay a visit to Scotland 

since the humiliating defeat of 1745 he was overwhelmed 

by the enthusiastic reception he received from the people of 

Edinburgh. 

George’s niece, the much more popular Queen Victoria, 

is celebrated above the portal of the Scottish National 

Gallery which lies 150 yards further down Princes Street. 

By the time this Athenian-looking temple to the arts was 

opened in 1859 the British royal family had not just forgiven 

Scotland’s uprising but bought themselves a holiday home – 

Balmoral Castle – in the Highlands. 

Turn left to walk past the two single-storey neoclassical 

buildings that house the national collection and you will 

come to the Playfair Steps. These rise steeply up from the 

gallery towards New College, a medieval-looking divinity 

school beneath the castle. Both the college, the National 

Gallery and the steps that link them were designed by 

William Henry Playfair (1790 – 1857). Playfair’s work 

encompassed both the Athenian style of Calton Hill and 

the National Gallery and the turreted gothic style that was 

championed by Sir Walter Scott and those who read his 

novels and yearned for Scotland’s medieval past. 

At the top of the steps follow signs to Lady Stair’s Close. 

The narrow path passes under one of Edinburgh’s à 


© VISITSCOTLAND / PAUL TOMKINS / KENNY LAM 

towering eight storey houses into an internal courtyard 

where, in a corner tower stands the Writer’s Museum. 

Here you can discover all manner of literary relics. 

There is a whole basement devoted to Robert Louis 

Stevenson which includes his boots and cap, and a 

wardrobe that belonged to his family (built by one 

Deacon Brodie whose infamous double-life in Edinburgh 

inspired Stevenson to write Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde). 

Cutting through another passageway, this time under 

Gladstone’s Land, a six storey house built in 1727, brings 

you out on to the Royal Mile.This sequence of ancient 

roads links Holyrood Palace, the Queen’s residence in 

Edinburgh, with the castle. Turn right and walk up to the 

castle itself and you will pass many shops selling cut-price 

cashmere, tartan and whisky, as well as “Boswell’s Court” 

where the great biographer was said to have dined with 

his subject, Dr Johnson. Suddenly there is the forecourt 

of the castle, a huge squat impregnable fortification built 

“The narrow 

path passes 

under one of 

Edinburgh’s 

towering 

eight storey 

houses into 

an internal 

courtyard 

where, in a 

corner tower 

stands the 

Writer’s 

Museum.” 

on top of an old volcano. The view on each side of this 

apron is panoramic, but on the left hand - southern - side 

you can see the towers of George Heriot’s School, which 

is said to have inspired local author, JK Rowling with the 

idea of Hogwarts. 

Leaving the castle, take the steps known as Wynd 

North down to Johnston Terrace and then further down 

still through Upper Bow, a convoluted stone staircase 

that leads to Victoria Street. This new, gradual incline of 

a road was built in the 1830s to make western access to 

Edinburgh less of a climb. Gaily painted, Victoria Street 

is one of the grandest and yet most colourful terraces in 

Edinburgh. It rises seven storeys high and contains shops 

like the fashionable tweed merchants Walker Slater and 

the famous Whisky Shop as well as a very good basic 

Edinburgh drinking den known as Bow Bar. 

From here climb up Victoria Street and to your right, 

over George IV Bridge you’ll find the National Museum of 

Scotland and opposite it the Elephant House Café where 

JK Rowling wrote Harry Potter. Turn left and you’ll come 

back to the Royal Mile and St Giles’ Cathedral whose 

remarkable steeple is topped by a coronet that is based 

on the medieval crown of the Kingdom of Scotland. u 

P L A N N E R 

WHERE TO EAT 

THE SHIP ON THE SHORE 

When Murray Georgeson began this fish restaurant in 

2006 in rundown Leith he had no idea he’d spearhead a 

revival of Edinburgh’s old dockland and eventually create 

a culinary icon. If you like seafood, book a table in this 

bohemian diner with its splendid seafood platters and 

original art. (24-26, Shore) 

theshipontheshore.co.uk 

BRASSERIE PRINCE BY ALAIN ROUX 

The new all-day brasserie at the Balmoral Hotel is a coproduction 

between hotelier Sir Rocco Forte and Alain Roux, 

son of Michel Roux and chef patron of the three-Michelinstarred 

Waterside Inn. The décor is a stylish – but not 

slavish – homage to the Parisian bistro. (1 Princes Street) 

roccofortehotels.com 

LE DI-VIN 

In 2008 this Polish oratory near the Caledonia Hotel was 

converted into a restaurant and a dramatic wine bar. Over 

the entrance is a giant monochrome mural celebrating the 

Auld Alliance of France and Scotland. Look out for Mary 

Queen of Scots and Sean Connery on one side and Dumas 

Pére and Brigitte Bardot on the other. (9 Randolph Place) 

ledivin.co.uk 


BRITISH 

TRAVEL 

JOURNAL 

Loves... 

N E W ! 

YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE... 

BELMOND ROYAL SCOTSMAN ADVENTURES 

UNDER THE STARS 

Scotland’s only luxury sleeper train, announces bespoke 

excursions that takes guests off the rails and into the wilds of 

Scotland. Guests can now tailor their itinerary by choosing 

from a range of activities including stargazing under some 

of the darkest skies in Europe in the Cairngorms; hiking the 

gorges of Aviemore, canoeing on Loch Ness, clay pigeon 

shooting at Rothiemurchus Estate or teeing off for golf at 

some of Scotland’s most famous links courses. Departing from 

Edinburgh’s Waverley Station, Belmond Royal Scotsman travels 

on circular routes through the heart of the Highlands. With 

only 40 passengers on board, the train replicates a ‘Country 

House on Wheels’ and has two, three- or four-night itineraries. 

belmond.com 

VISIT THE ROYAL YACHT BRITANNIA 

A visit to Edinburgh is simply not complete 

without a tour of this iconic ship. The Royal Yacht 

Britannia - Her Majesty The Queen’s former floating 

palace, where Prince Charles and Princess Diana 

honeymooned, and where the young princes William 

and Harry spent their school holidays sailing the 

Western Isles of Scotland. 

Today a museum, voted as Scotland’s Best 

Attraction for over 10 years - and it’s clear to see 

why it’s fabulously brilliant. Visitors are welcomed to 

step on-board and explore for themselves the yacht 

where Presidents Mandela, Reagan and Clinton 

were wined and dined, and celebrities like Liz Taylor 

and Frank Sinatra, (or more recently, Zara Philips 

and Mike Tindall) have been entertained. 

There are five decks of the yacht to explore while 

listening to the super-informative and engaging 

audio. From the gleaming Engine room to The Sun 

Lounge, Her Majesty The Queen's favourite room, 

and where she would enjoy breakfast and afternoon 

tea. Allow time to enjoy a champagne lunch or 

tea and scones in the Royal Deck Tea Room with 

its panoramic views over the River Forth and enjoy 

the delicious menu, all prepared on board in the 

original Royal Galleys by Britannia’s team of chefs. 

royalyachtbritannia.co.uk 

YOU CAN 

EVEN HIRE 

THE STATE 

DRAWING, 

STATE DINING 

ROOM 

OR THE 

OFFICERS' 

WARDROOM 

FOR PRIVATE 

EVENTS, 

WHERE 

EVERYTHING 

I S 

REPLICATED 

TO THE 

SAME HIGH 

STANDARDS 

AS WHEN 

BRITANNIA 

WAS IN 

R O Y A L 

SERVICE 

WITH 

EXCEPTIONAL 

CUISINE AND 

FINE WINES 

SERVED BY 

BRITANNIA’S 

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We love ... 

Y O U M I G H T A L S O E N J O Y 

NIRA CALEDONIA 

Edinburgh has a number of charming boutique hotels created out of 

the terraces of its eighteenth-century new town on the north side of 

the city. Nira Caledonia has just 28 rooms, many of them large and 

gracious but with dark modern furniture and extra-large TV screens. 

Staying here opens up a whole new perspective on Edinburgh’s 

beautiful, rational new city that later inspired so much 

American town planning. (6-10 Gloucester Place) 

niracaledonia.com 

THE GLASSHOUSE 

This very modern glass and steel hotel is built behind the facade of 

Lady Glenorchy’s Church, which was demolished in 2000 but still 

provides a portal into reception. Most of the rooms and suites look 

out on to a rooftop garden that has picturesque views of Calton Hill, 

and which is very is popular in the summer for picnics. Edinburgh 

Playhouse is next door and there are a lot of lively dining options 

nearby. (2 Greenside Place) 

theglasshousehotel.co.uk 

THE BALMORAL 

Built in 1902 as the Great Northern Hotel, the Balmoral 

is the grandest place to stay in Edinburgh. It rears up 

above Waverley Station like a great granite cliff. The 

hotel’s clocktower is always set three minutes fast to make 

sure passengers get to the platform on time. Rooms are 

elegantly designed by Olga Polizzi, the sister of owner Sir 

Rocco Forte and the views from those at the top extend 

beyond Edinburgh into the countryside. (1 Princes Street) 

roccofortehotels.com 

INTERCONTINENTAL EDINBURGH 

THE GEORGE 

Rich in history, welcoming hotel guests since 1881. The hotel's 

recent multi-million-pound restoration and refurbishment 

sensitively combines luxurious natural materials such as 

oak, marble and leather with a palette of colours inspired 

by the great 19th-century Scottish landscape painters. 

phcompany.com

EDINBURGH 

W H E R E W E S T A Y E D 

FINGAL, EDINBURGH 

Alexandra Dock, Leith 

Fingal is a luxury floating hotel permanently berthed on 

Edinburgh’s vibrant waterfront, just a short stroll to the 

shops, restaurants and galleries, in the historic Port of Leith. 

A blissful stay, far enough away from the hustle and bustle of 

the city to feel utterly tranquil, but still within easy reach of all 

the major city centre attractions (10 minutes by taxi or bus). 

Following a £5 million investment the former Northern 

Lighthouse supply ship has been exquisitely refurbished 

offering absolute luxury, flawless service, and a wholly 

unique experience - far removed from your everyday world. 

Fingal started life as a lighthouse tender, helping 

maintain lighthouses and transporting their keepers, 

equipment and supplies to some of the most treacherous 

locations in Scotland. 

The 23 beautifully styled cabins are all named after 

Stevenson lighthouses inspired by Fingal’s rich maritime 

heritage - augmented by the personalised embossed 

headboards. There are a range of bedroom suites to include 

cabins with private balconies, duplex apartments, and suites. 

Book the magnificent Skerryvore Suite, with a separate 

sitting room and private decking area for watching the sun 

go down, stargazing and Champagne. 

If you do decide to explore the charms on your doorstep, 

one of the highlights could be ‘The Distillery’, opening soon 

as the first vertical whisky distillery in Scotland, and a new 

major new landmark for Edinburgh. You might like to ‘meet 

the maker’ of the exquisite hand-woven luxury shawl on 

your bed. Scottish textile artist Araminta Campbell offers 

FINGAL IS 

ALSO A 

PERFECT 

VENUE 

FOR AN 

EXCLUSIVE 

USE SPECIAL 

OCCASION 

OR WEDDING 

VENUE - THE 

ELEGANT 

BALLROOM, 

WITH A 

GRAND 

SWEEPING 

STAIRCASE, 

CAN SEAT 

UP TO 60 

PEOPLE FOR 

DINNER 

private tours of her studio, located just down the road. Or if it 

is a culinary delight you desire head to Tom Kitchin’s Michelinstarred 

restaurant on Commercial Quay, also just a few 

minutes walk away. 

Once on-board however, you may choose not to step off! 

Serving breakfast, afternoon tea and evening supper, the 

Lighthouse Bar has a relaxed, luxurious feel, with soft leather 

seats, art deco interiors, and a magnificent shimmering ceiling. 

There’s also vast floor to ceiling windows which lead out to 

an outdoor decking area where you can watch the vibrant Leith 

Docks transform from bold daylight into soft, dusky tones, as 

the evening sun spills across the ocean. 

Its glamorous vibe sets the tone for appreciating one of 

their spectacular cocktails (or mocktails). Try an Old Fashion 

Shipwreck, with a delicious explosion of flavours. The menu is 

simple with just a few starters, then Scallops, Lamb, Salmon or 

Asparagus to follow. Simply seasonal dishes - fish fans should 

try the salmon which is smoked on board. 

Breakfast is about relaxing, spreading the papers out and 

digesting the morning’s news while watching the colourful 

world outside come alive. From a full cooked, hearty feast with 

all the trimmings to a continental style buffet and lots of fresh 

juice, fruit and gallons of tea and coffee. Children are welcome, 

double cabins are priced from £300 per night. 

fingal.co.uk 


Next we stop at 

PITLOCHRY 

Famous as a holiday resort, rich in Victorian heritage, Pitlochry is 

situated in the heart of the stunning scenery of Highland Perthshire and 

is the perfect half-way stopping point between Edinburgh and Inverness 

Words | Jessica Way 

© VISITBRITAIN/JOE CORNISH 



FROM EDINBURGH, it’s an hour and a half drive or two hours 

by train north to one of Scotland’s most beautiful places to 

visit - the burgh of Pitlochry, in the county of Perthshire. You’ll 

know when you’ve arrived, as all you will see around you is 

enormous trees - a feature that has given Perthshire the name of Big 

Tree Country. With more than 200,000 acres of woodlands, which 

include more champion trees than anywhere else in the UK, it’s a title 

well deserved. 

Pitlochry is very much a holiday destination with hotels, restaurants 

and its own special attractions and events for visitors throughout 

the year. The town sits below Beinn Bhracaigh (Ben Vrackie), the 

speckled mountain, and beside the River Tummel in some of the most 

magnificent scenery in Scotland, with a backdrop of surrounding hills 

and beautiful woodlands. 

The famous Highland Games are held here every September, 

promoting the cultural history of Scotland through competitive 

traditional dancing, piping, athletic and heavyweight championships. 

A short drive from Pitlochry, along a winding tree-lined road, hugging 

the River Tummel, lies the Queen' s View - a famous vantage point 

looking out over one of the most iconic panoramas in Scotland, 

directly to the west along Loch Tummel. On a clear day here you can 

see the mountains surrounding Glencoe near the West Coast. It is 

often thought that the location was named after Queen Victoria who 

did, in fact, visit in 1866. However, it is more widely believed to have 

been named after Queen Isabella, the 14th-century wife of Robert the 

Bruce, who used the spot as a resting place on her travels. 

And don’t miss a trip to The House of Bruar - Scotland’s foremost 

luxury retail destination - approximately 10 miles north of Pitlochry. 

Here you will find the best in contemporary country clothing, the UK’s 

largest Knitwear Hall, a comprehensive Food Hall with a Delicatessen, 

Butchery and popular Restaurant, Art Gallery and even a Fish and 

Chip Shop. u 

EAST HAUGH HOUSE 

Military Road, Pitlochry 

An award-winning country house hotel, and huge asset to 

this beautiful burgh, family-run for the past 30 years by the 

McGown family who lovingly converted the property, built 

originally as part of the Atholl Estate some 350 years ago. 

It is a very special place to stay, located in the heart of 

picturesque Pitlochry, surrounded by beautiful woodland 

walks and riverside rambles and with access to some of 

the very best fishing on the Rivers Tay and Tummel. Every 

guest is made to feel extremely special, a truly unique, 

unforgettable home-from-home experience in 17thcentury 

Scottish luxury. 

The beautiful turreted stone house boasts twelve 

individually designed bedrooms, including a deluxe 

four-poster room with Jacuzzi baths, a suite with movie 

room, and deluxe superior room with open fireplace. 

There is also a separate Victorian private gate lodge 

within the grounds. The restaurant, under the helm of 

award-winning Chef Patron Neil McGown, is known by 

the locals as serving the best Sunday roast in town and 

boasts an impressive A la Carte menu, as well as an everchanging 

daily specials menu. 

easthaugh.co.uk, balnakeilly.com 

H I R E ! 

A PERFECT 

VENUE 

FOR LARGE 

GROUPS 

BALNAKEILLY 

HOUSE IS A 

LUXURY 13 

BEDROOM 

RETREAT 

WITH 

VIBRANT 

INTERIORS 

AND A 

LARGE 

ROOFED 

HOT TUB 


Then we reach 

THE HIGHLANDS 

Inverness, known as the gateway to the rugged north of Scotland and, 

beyond, to the Western Isles, is our perfect stop, before taking the Kyle Line to 

the Kyle of Lochalsh and spending the afternoon at Eilean Donan Castle 

T 

HE NEXT PART of our Scotland 

Special could be experienced as 

part of the 'Castles and Wildlife 

of Scotland' tour by Great Rail 

Journeys – one of their new luxury, more 

intimate small group tours. This is such a great 

way to travel, with all the essential elements of 

the journey taken care of for you - a 7-day trip 

including overnight journeys aboard the new 

Caledonian Sleeper Train (featured on page 

97), 4 nights of luxury at two different hotels, 

a dolphin cruise, nostalgic rail trip along The 

Kyle Line, and a visit to Eilean Donan Castle. 

Departing from (and returning to) London 

Euston station, all you need to worry about is 

finding the Virgin Lounge ahead of boarding 

before settling in for your first night on the 

rails. Plus there’s plenty of free time for being 

curious and finding your own slice of Scottish 

adventures whilst on the road - starting in the 

cultural capital of the Highlands, Inverness. 

Inverness offers city life and beautiful scenery, 

with a fascinating history and a wealth of things 

to do and places to see, including its Castle, 

Cathedral, Museum Art Gallery, Botanic 

Gardens. The list goes on! Inverness is a Gaelic 

word meaning “mouth of the River Ness” – 

The Ness being the river which flows out of 



© VISITSCOTLAND / KENNY LAM 

Loch Ness (famous for its monster!) into 

the Moray Firth (famous for its resident pod 

of Bottlenose dolphins). While there is not 

a tour that can guarantee you a sighting 

of the Loch Ness monster, you would be 

unlucky not to see any sealife on Dolphin 

Spirit the biggest dolphin boat on the Moray 

Firth. Departing from Inverness Marina, 

it's a purpose-built passenger vessel with 

all-round visibility for up to 70 dolphin 

watchers on two decks – with passionate 

and expert guides also helping you spot 

seals, otters, herons, osprey and puffins. 

A journey from Inverness on the 

acclaimed Kyle Line – one of Scotland's 

most scenic railway lines is another 

'Highlands must'. Notable stops include 

Achanalt, where the marshlands 

surrounding Loch Achanalt provide a 

habitat for several rare and interesting plant 

and bird species, as well as Achnashellach 

Forest, reputedly the site of an historic battle 

between three Scottish clans in 1505. 

Disembark at the end of the line to 

transfer to the 13th century Eilean Donan 

Castle, perched atop a tiny island at the 

confluence of Loch Duich, Loch Long, and 

Loch Alsh. This iconic castle has been filmed 

and photographed numerous times over the 

years, most famously being featured in the 

film 'Highlander'. u 

“Inverness 

offers city life 

and beautiful 

scenery, with 

a fascinating 

history and 

a wealth 

of things 

to do and 

places to see 

including its 

own Castle, 

Cathedral, 

Museum 

Art Gallery, 

and Botanic 

Gardens. The 

list goes on!” 

TULLOCH CASTLE 

Tulloch Castle Drive, Dingwall Ross-Shire 

This magnificent hotel dates from the 12th century when 

the Bains and later the Clan Davidson laid claim to its 

lands. Like its lively history, the castle's fortunes have 

changed many times. The castle retains many of its period 

features, including the 250-year old panelled Great 

Hall, and painstakingly restored original fireplaces and 

ceilings. In days of old, only the Laird or the Chief of the 

Clan could enjoy a relaxing stay in a Scottish highland 

castle. Thankfully, times have changed. Today, Tulloch 

Castle has 20 well-appointed en suite bedrooms, each 

with their own unique character and charm. Guests 

are given a warm welcome, and can expect splendid 

hospitality, comfortable surroundings and superb food. 

bespokehotels.com/tullochcastlehotel 


Last but not least! 


Jessica Way has a ‘wild’ time staying in the Caledonian Forest, 

Sutherland, in the Scottish Highlands, where she unwinds and learns 

of an exciting project striving to restore the balance of nature 


A 

S A TRAVEL WRITER, people will 

often ask me ‘what’s hot?’ in the world 

of destinations and holiday trends. 

There’s this one hotel, an eco-friendly 

Wilderness Reserve in the wild side of the Highlands, 

permanently fixed at the tip of my tongue – and that’s 

Alladale. 

I haven’t spoken as much about one single 

hotel I’ve stayed in - ever. Alladale is, in my view, 

trending in every way. It’s environmentally-minded, 

experience-driven, and the perfect retreat for a 

luxury digital detox. 

It’s not a new hotel; the Laird of Alladale, Paul 

Lister, acquired the estate back in 2003. However, 

I feel that it is now that his passion, vision, ethical 

mindset and ability to remain commercially minded, 

is being shared and understood more than ever. 

Generally speaking, society is becoming more 

aware of the environmental importance of climate 

change. It’s thankfully an era of being more 

considerate to the environment around us, tackling the 

big issues of waste and conservation. 

I meet people regularly now, both socially and 

through work, who share stories about the changes 

and small contributions they have made. 

Companies such as Riverford and Gousto, 

which minimise the amount of single-use plastics 

from supermarkets, are gaining in popularity. 

I try, for example, by using soap bars for my 

body and hair, having weekly milk deliveries from 

Milk&More, and taking part in fundraising events. 

“It’s not a 

new hotel; 

the Laird 

of Alladale, 

Paul Lister, 

acquired 

the estate 

back in 2003. 

However, I 

feel that it 

is now, that 

his passion, 

vision, ethical 

mindset 

and ability 

to remain 

commercially 

minded, 

is being 

shared and 

understood.” 

But how is all this about making a difference relevant 

to Alladale I hear you ask? Well, “social purpose” is not 

just becoming important to everyday lifestyle, it has 

transferred to the tourism and travel industry too. 

People want to see the positive impact travel 

can have on the world, they're seeking to make a 

contribution while on holiday – with a rise of more 

fulfilling and enriching travel experiences. 

Alladale has recognised this change too. However, 

their conservation work is not merely a marketing 

campaign to publicly proclaim the good work they are 

doing to rewild Scotland at the reserve for commercial 

advantage. Far from it. Alladale is the real deal, and to 

them, this is not an opportunity, but a responsibility. 

And it’s not a cheap one either! Uncomparable to 

the extra cost of buying unpackaged fruit and veg, or 

paying slightly more each week for eco-friendly toilet 

roll, this sustainable environment project is costing 

Alladale millions. 

The man behind the project, Paul Lister, thankfully 

has deep enough pockets to pay for it – he’s the son à 


of Noel Lister, founder of the MFI furniture empire, 

which he sold to Asda in 1985 for a reputed £60 million. 

Paul’s big vision to “restore the ecology of Scotland”, 

came to him shortly after his father died from a stroke in 

2015. Losing his father made him reassess his current life 

as a furniture salesman where he “used to eat, sleep and 

breathe chipboard dust”. 

He spent some time in South Africa to try to find 

himself again, and the ever-popular game reserves 

inspired his dream for Alladale. 

We didn’t get to meet Paul in person during our stay 

he’s only at the reserve around three months a year, but 

Pieter-Paul Groenhuijsen, the General Manager, who 

greeted us on arrival, and dined with us in the evening, 

more than made up for it. Pieter is a tall, muscular 

Dutchman, who is instantly likeable, warm and composed 

- usually found with his adorable husky puppy Logan shyly 

by his side. On arrival, we sat chatting in the spacious 

(but cosy) lounge, our bags carried in, while we chatted 

over teas, coffees and delicious homemade banana cake. 

I was there with an exclusive small-group tour, a new 

offering by Great Rail Journeys, following a promise of 

“undiscovered destinations, charming train travel, and 

luxury hotels” – and can confidently say they delivered. 

This hotel was a delightful surprise and welcome highlight 

within the itinerary. 

Pieter passionately shares Paul’s same vision for the 

reserve - enthusiastic about the replanting of the forest. 

We looked out of the window at the outstanding views, 

imagining how the landscape would have been a couple 

of thousand years ago, colourful mosaics of flora, trees 

and vegetation. 

The reserve is part of Glen Alladale, a broad glacial 

valley surrounded by 2,300-foot mountains, and the 

Alladale estate itself covers 23,000 acres of Caledonian 

“Originally 

described as 

“The Great 

Wood of 

Caledon” the 

wood would 

have been 

home to a 

wide range 

of species 

including 

the beaver, 

wild boar, 

lynx, elk, 

brown bear 

and the wolf, 

as well as 

creatures 

still present 

today.” 

Forest. Originally described as “The Great Wood of 

Caledon” (there’s even a book, of the same name) the 

wood would have been home to a wide range of species 

including the beaver, wild boar, lynx, elk, brown bear 

and the wolf, as well as creatures still present today. 

Due to centuries of deforestation, today less than 

1% of the original forest remains, and the widespread 

introduction of sheep and intensive grazing by an 

increased deer population, natural regeneration of 

the forest has been put on hold. “The problem is the 

ecological system isn’t working” Pieter explained. 

We were taken on a drive of the reserve, keen to 

explore this beautiful wild landscape and to see the 

conservation work in practice. A few of us chose to sit 

in the open trunk of the 4x4, maximising our views and 

photo opportunities. It’s a glorious day - and we feel 

blessed to be there. The scenery is wildly dramatic, the 

colours so vivid, the peacefulness and freshness of the 

air – it’s exhilarating, just being there. 

The only man-made objects in sight were the wooden 

bridges, enabling us to drive over the crystal clear 

streams - a world away from London - yet only 2.5 hours 

commute. 

We were taken to see the lodges. Deanich Lodge was 

my personal favourite, hidden deep in the reserve, for a 

true ‘off the grid’ experience. It wasn’t long before we 

found ourselves surrounded by a herd of fluffy Highland 

cows, a mixture of red, yellow, brindle, dun, and silver. 

Some are very noisy. All are utterly adorable, especially 

the younger calves. 

I was hoping we might also see TV adventurer Bear 

Grylls - as he has chosen Alladale as the location for his 

Survival Academy, confirming just how wild this area is. 

We do though drive past a large group of children and 

teachers. Paul has set up and hosts an annual six-week 

Challenger Trust, camping, conservation and outdoor 

adventures for parties of secondary school pupils. 

Our ranger Neil, just 18 years old, tells us about their 

aims of replanting 30 million trees while pointing out 

some of the 800,000 trees they have already planted. 

80% are local varieties, including Scots pine, rowan, 

willow and juniper. Most of these will take a lifetime to 

grow, but to see the small sprouts that have emerged so 

far gives both hope and excitement. 

Only once the forestation is complete can they then 

concentrate on bringing back the animals that have 

been lost - the overall idea being to restore the Highland 

ecosystem, reintroducing the flora and fauna that once 

thrived here, and eventually the large predators who 

once lived here. 

We see a sign “Slow please, Red Squirrels”, a 

great example of a successful re-introduction in 2016. 

Following becoming extinct in many parts of Scotland, 

they are now thriving here once again. As are Red Kite, 

the white-tailed sea eagle, and European beavers. 


Despite all this excellent work, there is still some criticism around the 

project. Paul himself, being described as “howling mad” by the Daily 

Mail and referred to as ‘The Wolf Man’ by some of the locals, to which 

he has skillfully made a joke of himself, by greeting new guests wearing 

a wolf mask! The press is at it too, with Alladale being described as 

“Jurassic Park”, and articles writing of the shock-factor, with gasps, 

and reluctant locals worried about the project. 

With further sensible planning and a science-driven approach, 

Alladale firmly believe it is the right thing to do for future generations. 

Having been there and seen what they’re doing first-hand - it is truly 

remarkable. 

As is the hotel itself, with its luxurious bedrooms, spacious cosy 

sitting room, snooker room, delicious home-cooked evening meals - 

and views out to the dramatic glens, colourful hills, glistening rivers, 

and herds of majestic red deer roaming around outside your window. 

The very best bit though, while increasing cultural understanding 

in the conservation of wildlife, Alladale also ploughs 7% of 

accommodation revenues into The European Nature Trust – so guests 

are contributing directly to conservation and restoration efforts – a 

strategy, in my view, only to be applauded, and a positive step forward 

for sustainable eco-friendly tourism. u 

GETTING THERE 

Experience Castles and Wildlife of Scotland on an escorted small 

group tour with Great Rail Journeys. Priced from £1,495pp, the 

7-day trip includes return travel on the Caledonian Sleeper, hotel 

accommodation, all rail and excursions and selected meals. 

Departing 6 Oct 2019, 24 and 26 April, 15 and 17 May, 12 and 14 

June, and 2 and 10 October 2020. 

greatrail.com/tours/castles-and-wildlife-of-scotland 

N E W ! 

WE TRAVELLED ON THE NEW! CALEDONIAN 

SLEEPER TRAIN LONDON TO INVERNESS 

It’s time to ‘Dream Big’ and let the new fleet of Caledonian Sleeper 

trains transport you from London to Scotland in style. Following 

an investment of £150 million, for the first time, their new fleet of 

trains offer guests double en-suite bedrooms! Other new features 

include a hotel-style keycard entry system, charging panels and 

WiFi throughout the train. Take the Lowlander route between 

London and Glasgow or Edinburgh. Complete the rest of this 

journey on the Highlander route between London and Aberdeen, 

Inverness and Fort William. A basic seat on the Caledonian 

Sleeper starts at £45, with prices for Caledonian Doubles from 

£335 single occupancy and £400 shared. 


WORDSWORTH 

HOUSE & GARDEN 

WHINLATTER 

MUNCASTER 

MIREHOUSE 

WORDSWORTH 

TRUST/DOVE 

COTTAGE 

ARMITT 

RUSKIN MUSEUM 

BEATRIX POTTER 

GALLERY 

LAKELAND 

MOTOR MUSEUM 

TOWNEND 

GRIZEDALE 

DALEMAIN 

STOTT PARK 

BOBBIN MILL 

HUTTON-IN-THE-FOREST 

ALLAN 

BANK 

HOLE- 

HIRD 

HILL TOP 

BROCK- 

HOLE 

GONDOLA 

HOLKER 

FURNESS 

ABBEY 

CARLISLE 

CASTLE 

BRANTWOOD 

BLACKWELL 

LEVENS 

ASKHAM 

BROUGHAM 

CASTLE 

SWARTHMOOR 

SIZERGH 

ACORN BANK 

LANERCOST 

BIRDOSWALD 

BRITISH TRAVEL JOURNAL CROSSWORD 03 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

ACROSS 

8 He was Shylock to Jeremy 

Irons' Merchant (6) 

9 NC500 tourist destination 

on Loch Broom (8) 

10 Banjo lad played to get 

employment (4,1,3) 

11 Rumours (6) 

12 Old Edinburgh singer 

who loved a lassie (6) 

13 Pens again (8) 

14 Quoted concerns (6,9) 

18 Annually, Blenheim Palace 

pays one in the form of a 

French royal flag (4-4) 

21 Cotton cloth (6) 

23 Small extension of the sea (6) 

24 Falls in Yorkshire (8) 

25 Berkshire village where a 

struggle ends? (8) 

26 Marriages and mergers (6) 

DOWN 

1 Laurens van der Post's "Lost World" 

(8) 

2 Out of breath (6) 

3 Called forth (8) 

4 Locale of Kempton Park racecourse 

(7-2-6) 

5 Fully renovated (3-3) 

6 Professional who helps you look 

well (8) 

7 Stick together (6) 

15 Instruction (8) 

16 Distinguishes (5,3) 

17 Dragon's Fury and Oblivion rollercoasters 

certainly are (8) 

19 Incredible! (6) 

20 Figures who are never billed? (6) 

22 Prologue (4-2) 

Answers will be printed in the 

Winter Issue out 28 November 

The first twenty correct crosswords received will be rewarded with a free gift of 

Newby Teas - simply send your completed crossword (or the answers) with your 

choice of Moroccan Mint, Jasmine Blossom, Earl Grey or English Breakfast tea, 

and your postal address, by post to British Travel Journal, Mitchell House, Brook 

Avenue, Warsash, Southampton, Hampshire, SO31 9HP, 

or email the answers to crossword@britishtraveljournal.com 

ANSWERS TO CROSSWORD 02 | SUMMER 2019 

ACROSS: 1 Lews, 4 Unsinkable, 9 Strait 10 On credit 11 Horseshoe-shaped, 

12 Reindeer 15 Deva 18 Star 19 Deaf ears 21 Breakfast cereal 25 Solihull 26 

Mercia 27 Marylebone 28 Lynn. DOWN: 2 Extrovert 3 Swabs 4 Untested 5 

Stobo 6 No-cost 7 Alexandre 8 Laine 13 Normality 14 Rad 16 Variation 17 

Gatcombe 20 Effuse 22 Rhoda 23 Salvo 24 Rural. 

FOR YOUR JOURNEY 

Books, apps, travel gadgets and crossword 

The Heritage Cumberground 

WE LOVE 

Victorian Line 

Diary Line 

Monument Line 

Museum 

Castle & Home 

Wellington 

Garden 

TFT 

Spiritual 

Walkies 

BOOK RELEASE 

A must read for all golf enthusiasts, 

who will know that Scotland boasts 

some of the best courses in the world, 

yet no two courses are ever the same! 

Priced £14.99 available from: 

pen-and-sword.co.uk 

CUMBERGROUND 

Cumbria, home to two UNESCO World 

Heritage Sites, is making the tracking 

down of heritage through itinerary 

planning simplicity itself, by launching its 

‘Heritage Cumberground’ map. (free) 

cumbriaslivingheritage.co.uk 

FAIRTRIP APP 

The first app in the world dedicated 

to sustainable travel, featuring 3,000 

hotels, restaurants and experiences for 

their authenticity and their positive 

social and environmental impact. (free) 

fairtrip.org 

C1 MOONGLOW 

Launched to mark 50 years since man’s 

first steps on the moon. This exclusive 

new timepiece uses Callibre JJ04, an 

in-house modification accurate to a 

day every 128 years. Priced £1,695. 

christopherward.co.uk

British Travel Journal | Autumn 2019

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