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October 2019 Digital Issue

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EQUIPMENT<br />

ICON<br />

Garland/Welbilt has<br />

built a legacy of success<br />

THE <strong>2019</strong><br />

EQUIPMENT<br />

TRENDS<br />

REPORT<br />

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT FOCUS<br />

BEYOND THE<br />

STATUS QUO<br />

Equipment choices are<br />

driven by consumer trends<br />

CANADIAN PUBLICATION MAIL PRODUCT SALES AGREEMENT #40063470<br />

COOKING<br />

OUTSIDE<br />

THE BOX<br />

The Restaurant at Pearl Morissette continues to<br />

attract attention for its unique business model<br />

OCTOBER <strong>2019</strong> $4.00


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VOLUME 52, NO.9 | OCTOBER <strong>2019</strong><br />

CONTENTS<br />

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT FOCUS: A LOOK AT WHAT’S NEW IN EQUIPMENT OFFERINGS<br />

IN THIS ISSUE<br />

EQUIPMENT SPECIAL<br />

25<br />

31 STEEPED IN HISTORY<br />

The story behind the<br />

success of Garland/Welbilt<br />

16<br />

FEATURES<br />

14 MENTORING MATTERS<br />

Mentoring programs offer benefits<br />

for employers and employees alike<br />

15 TOP-30-UNDER-30<br />

Daniela Alhanova, Assistant Food<br />

& Beverage Manager, Sheraton<br />

Centre Toronto is profiled<br />

16 CULINARY ROAD TRIP<br />

Well-travelled diners are fuelling the<br />

popularity of globally inspired cuisine<br />

ON THE COVER: Chef Daniel Hadida,<br />

The Restaurant at Pearl Morisette<br />

Photography by Jeff Kirk<br />

35 BEYOND THE STATUS QUO<br />

Consumer trends are driving<br />

equipment choices in restaurants<br />

39 THE SUM OF ITS PARTS<br />

The <strong>2019</strong> Equipment Trend Report<br />

49 TABLETOP TECH<br />

Tableside and tabletop tablets<br />

are gaining popularity<br />

25 A YEAR IN NIAGARA: SUMMER<br />

The third instalment in our series<br />

on The Restaurant at Pearl Morissette<br />

51 SHAKEN, NOT STIRRED<br />

Sustainability is driving cocktail<br />

innovation in Canadian restaurants<br />

31<br />

DEPARTMENTS<br />

2 FROM THE EDITOR<br />

5 FYI<br />

13 FROM THE DESK OF NPD GROUP<br />

52 CHEF’S CORNER: Angus An,<br />

Maenam, Popina, Vancouver,<br />

52<br />

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM<br />

OCTOBER <strong>2019</strong> FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY 1


FROM THE EDITOR<br />

SMART<br />

SOLUTIONS<br />

As any chef and restaurant operator will attest to,<br />

food is typically considered the shining star in any<br />

restaurant business. After all, it’s the dazzling array<br />

of creative dishes that attracts consumer interest<br />

— especially in our social media-obsessed world.<br />

But, for food to be perfectly executed, prepared and presented,<br />

equipment and technology are needed to take it to the next level.<br />

With that in mind, this year we’re pleased to debut our first-ever<br />

equipment-focused issue, highlighting the growing importance<br />

of the tools of the trade.<br />

As labour shortages continue to create uncertainty, equipment<br />

now demands more attention from operators and chefs. In<br />

the process, operators are learning to leverage technology, using<br />

it as an enabler to make their businesses more efficient and<br />

productive — all the while helping to solve some of the urgent<br />

issues around recruiting and retention. Whether we’re talking<br />

about POS systems, software programs that facilitate order taking<br />

and reservations or ovens that help chefs prepare a range of<br />

menu items, equipment is essential.<br />

In recent years, technology has become a tool for disruption,<br />

adding an important, extra layer to the production and delivery<br />

of food. And as technology continues to gain<br />

traction with, for example, a growing focus<br />

on AI, expectations continue to evolve, resulting<br />

in a discernible need for greater speed,<br />

convenience and future-forward thinking.<br />

Ultimately, for restaurants to be efficient<br />

and profitable, operators and chefs need to<br />

truly understand the pervasive trends shaping<br />

the landscape. They also need to spend time<br />

driving important results. Currently, according<br />

to research by the Access Group in the U.S., 30<br />

per cent of operators spend four hours a week<br />

on office-based tasks. That means many operators<br />

are experiencing a lack of freedom to focus<br />

on delivering excellent customer experiences.<br />

Similarly, just imagine how much time chefs<br />

could gain back by having efficient equipment<br />

and technology solutions in the kitchen.<br />

At the end of the day, operators need to get rid of the<br />

mentality that cheap and cheerful is best. Granted, saving money<br />

is always a goal of any business, especially given recent research<br />

by Access Group, which shows hospitality costs in the U.S. hit a<br />

12-year high in 2018. That said, it’s time operators look at equipment<br />

as an investment with the potential to help differentiate<br />

their restaurants and ensure their future success and sustainability,<br />

rather than just being another line item in their budget.<br />

ROSANNA CAIRA rcaira@kostuchmedia.com<br />

@foodservicemag<br />

facebook.com/foodservicehospitalitymagazine<br />

instagram.com/rosannacaira<br />

NICK WONG, LOCATION PROVIDED BY VIA CIBO<br />

2 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY OCTOBER <strong>2019</strong> FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM


order<br />

tickets now<br />

EST. 1968 | VOLUME 52, NO. 9 | OCTOBER <strong>2019</strong><br />

EDITOR & PUBLISHER ROSANNA CAIRA<br />

ART DIRECTOR MARGARET MOORE<br />

MANAGING EDITOR AMY BOSTOCK<br />

ASSOCIATE EDITOR DANIELLE SCHALK<br />

MULTIMEDIA MANAGER DEREK RAE<br />

DESIGN MANAGER COURTNEY JENKINS<br />

SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER/EVENTS<br />

CO-ORDINATOR JHANELLE PORTER<br />

DESIGN ASSISTANT JACLYN FLOMEN<br />

DIRECTOR OF SALES CHERYLL SAN JUAN<br />

ACCOUNT MANAGER ELENA OSINA<br />

ACCOUNT MANAGER AMITOJ DUTT<br />

DIRECTOR OF BUSINESS<br />

DEVELOPMENT, U.S.A. WENDY GILCHRIST<br />

CIRCULATION PUBLICATION PARTNERS<br />

CONTROLLER DANIELA PRICOIU<br />

ADVISORY BOARD<br />

FAIRFAX FINANCIAL HOLDINGS LIMITED NICK PERPICK<br />

FHG INTERNATIONAL INC. DOUG FISHER<br />

JOEY RESTAURANT GROUP BRITT INNES<br />

MTY GROUP MARIE-LINE BEAUCHAMP<br />

PROFILE HOSPITALITY GROUP SCOTT BELLHOUSE<br />

SOTOS LLP ALLAN DICK<br />

THE HOUSE OF COMMONS JUDSON SIMPSON<br />

THE MCEWAN GROUP MARK MCEWAN<br />

UNIVERSITY OF GUELPH, SCHOOL OF HOSPITALITY<br />

& TOURISM MANAGEMENT BRUCE MCADAMS<br />

WELBILT MARY CHIAROT<br />

CO-HOSTS<br />

ROSANNA CAIRA<br />

Editor & Publisher<br />

Kostuch Media Ltd.<br />

NED BELL<br />

Executive Chef<br />

Ocean Wise<br />

To subscribe to F&H, visit foodserviceandhospitality.com<br />

Published 11 times per year by Kostuch Media Ltd.,<br />

23 Lesmill Rd., Suite 404, Toronto, Ont., M3B 3P6. Tel: (416) 447-0888,<br />

Fax (416) 447-5333, website: foodserviceandhospitality.com.<br />

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<strong>2019</strong><br />

Fairmont Royal York<br />

Hotel Toronto<br />

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MONTHLY NEWS AND UPDATES FOR THE FOODSERVICE INDUSTRY<br />

NICK WONG [CHEF JOHN HIGGINS]<br />

WINNERS’ CIRCLE<br />

Kostuch Media Ltd. announces<br />

<strong>2019</strong> Pinnacle Award winners<br />

Kostuch Media Ltd.,<br />

publisher of industry<br />

magazines Foodservice and<br />

Hospitality and Hotelier, has<br />

unveiled the <strong>2019</strong> winners<br />

of its prestigious Pinnacle Awards.<br />

This year marks the 31st anniversary<br />

of the “Oscars of the industry.”<br />

Over the past year, Company of the<br />

Year, Montreal-based Copper Branch,<br />

announced plans to open 50 new<br />

locations over the next decade. Five<br />

of these openings are slated to happen<br />

within the next year, including<br />

Copper Branch’s first-ever Vancouver<br />

outpost and several spots located<br />

in the Greater Toronto Area and<br />

Montreal. In January, the company<br />

opened two new stores in France, one<br />

in Fort Lauderdale, Fla. and one in<br />

New York City. Founder Rio Infantino<br />

is also planning to open locations in<br />

the Netherlands and Monaco.<br />

This year, our Regional Company<br />

of the Year, West, Surrey, B.C.-based<br />

Joseph Richard Group, launched a<br />

series of “ghost restaurants” to meet<br />

growing consumer demand for delivered<br />

meals. The company, which<br />

owns 25 establishments — including<br />

pubs, restaurants, liquor stores and<br />

the Steveston Hotel — also signed an<br />

operating agreement with the owners<br />

of Glass House Estate Winery<br />

and opened its Stanley Park Brewing<br />

Restaurant and Brewpub.<br />

Our Regional Company of the Year,<br />

East, Ancaster, Ont.-based Balzac’s<br />

Coffee Roasters, is celebrating its 25th<br />

anniversary this year. Since opening<br />

its first location in Stratford, Ont., the<br />

much-loved coffee chain has opened<br />

14 more coffee shops in the province<br />

— the most recent in Toronto’s Billy<br />

Bishop Airport — and has plans to<br />

“FOR MORE THAN<br />

30 YEARS,<br />

WE’VE BEEN<br />

SHINING THE<br />

SPOTLIGHT ON<br />

COMPANIES THAT<br />

ARE ACHIEVING<br />

SUCCESS<br />

IN THE<br />

HOSPITALITY<br />

INDUSTRY<br />

THROUGH<br />

INNOVATION AND<br />

A STEADFAST<br />

FOCUS ON<br />

EXCELLENCE,” SAYS<br />

ROSANNA CAIRA,<br />

EDITOR AND<br />

PUBLISHER AT<br />

KOSTUCH MEDIA<br />

LTD. “THIS YEAR’S<br />

WINNERS REFLECT<br />

THE IMPORTANCE<br />

OF DIVERSIFICATION<br />

IN A LANDSCAPE<br />

THAT CONTINUES<br />

TO BE DISRUPTED.”<br />

open four more.<br />

It was a big year for Kitchener,<br />

Ont.-based Charcoal Group, our<br />

Independent Restaurateur. The company<br />

has undertaken two extensive<br />

renovations in recent months and<br />

opened a number of new restaurants,<br />

including an Oakville, Ont. outpost of<br />

its Beertown Public Houses, followed<br />

by planned openings in Toronto,<br />

Barrie, Ont. and Guelph, Ont.<br />

This year’s Chef of the Year is Alex<br />

Chen. Since overseeing the genesis<br />

of Boulevard Kitchen & Oyster Bar,<br />

Chen has earned the restaurant a<br />

full complement of accolades while<br />

proving his culinary mettle — leading<br />

Team Canada to a top-10 finish at<br />

the 2013 Bocuse d’Or in Lyon, France<br />

and steering Boulevard to the top spot<br />

in both the 2015 and ’17 editions of<br />

the Gold Medal Plates B.C. regional<br />

championships.<br />

Built on a reputation of reliability<br />

and flexibility, Supplier of the<br />

Year Flanagan Foodservice has been<br />

providing exceptional service to the<br />

foodservice industry for more than<br />

40 years. This year, the company was<br />

recognized for overall business performance<br />

and sustained growth with the<br />

Canada’s Best Managed Companies<br />

designation and has requalified as one<br />

of Canada’s Best Managed Companies<br />

for the sixth year in a row. In<br />

February, Dan Lafrance took the reins<br />

as the new president of the Canadian<br />

family-owned company.<br />

In addition to its regular slate of Pinnacle Awards, this year, the Rosanna Caira Lifetime Achievement<br />

Award will be presented to chef John Higgins, director of George Brown Chef School in Toronto.<br />

Higgins has cooked for the Queen at Buckingham Palace, for heads of state in Washington and in some<br />

of Toronto’s finest hotels, including the Four Seasons, the Sutton Place and the King Edward Hotel.<br />

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM<br />

OCTOBER <strong>2019</strong> FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY 5


FRESH FACED<br />

Earls Restaurant Group has<br />

given its Toronto flagship<br />

location a makeover. The<br />

renovation of Earls King<br />

Street represents the first<br />

location in Eastern Canada<br />

to embody the brand’s new<br />

vision — creating a collection<br />

of independently compelling<br />

restaurants. The restaurant’s<br />

dining-room renovations were<br />

unveiled in September, with a<br />

lounge makeover set to follow<br />

in 2020. The redesigned space<br />

features an eclectic look and a<br />

gallery-style local-art wall. “We believe local art creates a connection to the community<br />

within a space,” says Kristin Vekteris, vice-president of Brand and Marketing at Earls<br />

Restaurant Group. “With our vision to create a unique experience at each Earls location,<br />

local art has been at the core of our design concept, to incorporate local personality<br />

and culture.”<br />

HOMECOMING<br />

COMING<br />

EVENTS<br />

OCT. 22 MHA & MRFA Show, Victoria Inn Hotel,<br />

Winnipeg. Tel: 888-859-9976; email: info@<br />

oneshow.ca; website: oneshow.ca<br />

OCT. 22-27 Devour! The Food Film Fest, Wolfville,<br />

N.S. Email: lia@devourfest.com; website:<br />

devourfest.com<br />

NOV. 5 Canadian Restaurant Leadership<br />

Summit, Arcadian Court, Toronto. Tel: 647-723-<br />

7736; email: erick.bauer@npd.com; website:<br />

restaurantsummit.ca<br />

NOV. 29 31st-Annual Pinnacle Awards, Fairmont<br />

Royal York, Toronto. Tel: 416-358-2511, ext. 235;<br />

email: dpricoiu@kostuchmedia.com; website:<br />

kostuchmedia.com/shop<br />

FOR MORE EVENTS VISIT<br />

foodserviceandhospitalitycom/events/<br />

JOLLIBEE OPENS<br />

NEW TORONTO<br />

LOCATION<br />

Mary Brown’s Chicken & Taters celebrated its 50th anniversary this summer with an<br />

epic homecoming in St. John’s, N.L., including a new flagship location opened in the<br />

city’s downtown core. The restaurant features a mural by local artist Kyle Bustin on the<br />

building’s exterior, as well as an interior mural by another St. John’s artist, Julie Lewis.<br />

The works are designed to highlight the city’s culture, history and family-oriented<br />

values. As part of the celebration, corporate employees and franchisees from across<br />

the country came together in St. John’s to celebrate the 50th anniversary through a<br />

variety of local experiences, excursions and traditions, culminating in the reveal of the<br />

exterior mural.<br />

Jollibee opened its third location in the<br />

Greater Toronto Area (GTA) on September<br />

6 near Toronto’s Wilson subway station.<br />

Canada continues to play a key role in<br />

Jollibee’s expansion plans, as the chain progresses<br />

in its goal to open 100 branches in<br />

the country over the next five years. Toronto<br />

Wilson Station marks Jollibee’s sixth location<br />

in Canada, opening on the heels of<br />

its first Alberta location in August, where<br />

approximately 8,000 customers were served<br />

on opening day.<br />

6 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY OCTOBER <strong>2019</strong> FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM


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RESTOBUZZ<br />

Grant van Gameren has opened an intimate<br />

30-seat wine bar, Piquette, in Toronto.<br />

The concept features a rotating wine list<br />

highlighting notable and hard-to-find<br />

labels, with a focus on winemakers and<br />

vineyards from around the globe. The menu<br />

of small dishes showcases charcuterie<br />

from Scott Draper, as well as dishes such<br />

as amberjack crudo with local cucumbers<br />

and fennel with tonnato sauce, habanero<br />

and bonito...Manousha Inc. has opened<br />

in Mississauga, Ont. The Middle-Eastern<br />

concept will specialize in Mana’eesh — a<br />

style of pizza-like flatbread. Diners can<br />

choose from 25 different kinds of Mana’eesh<br />

in four categories — meats, sweets, dairy<br />

and vegan. The 12-seat restaurant will focus<br />

largely on take-out and delivery and has<br />

Piquette<br />

partnered with multiple delivery services...<br />

Privé Kitchen + Bar has opened in Vancouver.<br />

The massive entertainment venue features more than 7,000 sq. ft. of interior space, a 2,000-sq.-<br />

ft. patio and is designed as a combination of various concepts. It features a games lounge with<br />

arcade machines, beer pong, table tennis, electronic darts, foosball, a dance floor and a DJ booth,<br />

as well as karaoke. Privé’s food, wine, beer and drink menus are available in the dining room,<br />

lounge, patio, at the bar or in private rooms. Bites range from brunch through appetizers and<br />

late-night eats to entrées and large-party platters.<br />

Opening a new restaurant? LET US IN ON THE BUZZ<br />

Send a high-res image, menu and background information about the new<br />

establishment to abostock@kostuchmedia.com<br />

IN BRIEF<br />

Tim Hortons has partnered with SkipTheDishes<br />

to offer delivery services to customers across<br />

select Greater-Toronto-Area (GTA) regions.<br />

The brand’s full menu will be available through<br />

the service...FAT Brands Inc. has opened a<br />

new Fatburger location in Abbotsford, B.C. The<br />

opening marks the brand’s 21st location in the<br />

province...Jollibee has opened its first Alberta<br />

location in Edmonton. This is the brand’s<br />

fifth Canadian location. The brand celebrated<br />

the opening with a series of giveaways...<br />

DoorDash has expanded its door-to-door<br />

delivery service to Montreal. The expansion<br />

marks the company’s first predominantly<br />

French-speaking market and first market<br />

in Quebec...New York-based plant-based<br />

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM<br />

restaurant chain by CHLOE. is entering Canada<br />

with two confirmed locations in Toronto.<br />

The first location is slated to open this fall in<br />

Yorkdale Shopping Centre, with the second to<br />

open in the city’s financial district in 2020...<br />

Starbucks has rolled out its new strawless lids<br />

in Toronto — the first city in Canada to offer<br />

the new lightweight, recyclable lids for iced<br />

beverages. The strawless lids will be rolled<br />

out to the rest of Canada in 2020...Montrealbased<br />

plant-based chain LOV open its first<br />

Toronto location in September. This is the<br />

brand’s first location outside of Quebec. The<br />

concept is a fast-fine-dining experience that<br />

combines culinary excellence and elegance<br />

with affordable pricing and quick service...<br />

Foodtastic Inc. has acquired the Chocolato,<br />

Chocolate and Ice Cream Bar chain. Founded<br />

in Quebec City in 2015, Chocolato has opened<br />

Canada’s<br />

Favourite Bakery<br />

is Back!<br />

For more information, please visit<br />

saraleefrozenbakery.com/canada<br />

to view our full line of products<br />

or call 1-855-206-0443.


more than 20 locations in the last three years...<br />

Mahony & Sons has rebranded to mahony and,<br />

as part of the refresh, the Vancouver-based pub<br />

concept partnered with chef Vikram Vij to update<br />

its menu. Vij’s menu features classic offerings,<br />

as well as “spiced-up pub fare”...Compass<br />

Group Canada and Copper Branch have launched<br />

an exclusive national partnership aimed at<br />

improving the availability of plant-based options<br />

in healthcare and post-secondary settings<br />

in Canada. Under this agreement, Compass Group<br />

Canada has the option to open up to 50 Copper<br />

Branch locations over the next 10 years, with<br />

five planned openings in the next year...Carl’s Jr.<br />

has expanded its partnership with Beyond Meat<br />

to launch its Beyond Famous Star with Cheese<br />

burger in Canada, building on the product’s<br />

success in the U.S....Pizza 73 has launched<br />

new menu items, including cauliflower crust,<br />

plant-based pepperoni, plant-based spicysausage<br />

crumble and the Super Plant Pizza.<br />

The menu offerings were launched in response<br />

to customer demand for healthier options and<br />

more flexible offerings...Subway has partnered<br />

with Beyond Meat to test exclusive plant-based<br />

COZY UP TO<br />

FALL FLAVOURS<br />

• Spice up drinks like lattes, hot chocolate or smoothies<br />

• Incorporate into desserts such as ice cream, pastries,<br />

cakes, cookies and donuts for a seasonal flavour boost<br />

• Add to stews and soups for a warm, sweet and savoury<br />

flavour combination<br />

protein options in September. For the test, 685<br />

participating restaurants in Canada and the U.S.<br />

piloted the Beyond Meatball Marinara sub...7-<br />

Eleven Canada has added Beyond Meat Pizza to<br />

its Hot-to-Go menu at select Toronto locations.<br />

The hand-panned, Beyond Sausage and Roasted<br />

Veggie Pizza is made with Beyond Meat Italian<br />

Sausage Crumbles, fire-roasted vegetables and<br />

Canadian cheese...KFC recently tested plantbased<br />

nuggets and boneless wings developed<br />

by Beyond Meat at one of its Atlanta restaurants<br />

in a one-day-only offer. Customer feedback will<br />

influence the brand’s plans for broader tests or<br />

a potential rollout. The brand has also reportedly<br />

stated Canada can expect its own plant-based<br />

offering to debut in the near future.<br />

PEOPLE<br />

Yum! Brands, Inc. has elected David Gibbs as<br />

Chief Executive Officer, effective Jan. 1, 2020. He<br />

ugar, nice...<br />

will also servie on the company’s board, effective<br />

Sugar,<br />

nic<br />

Nov. 1, <strong>2019</strong>. Gibbs, who currently serves as Yum!<br />

Brands president and Chief Operating Officer and<br />

AND EVERYTHING<br />

For these recipes, menu inspiration and<br />

product information, visit Clubhouseforchefs.ca<br />

clubhouseforchefs<br />

ch4chefs<br />

ugar, spice<br />

CH4Chefs<br />

Coconut Custard Baked in a Pumpkin<br />

Coco<br />

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nic<br />

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divisions, will succeed Greg Creed, who is retiring<br />

at the end of <strong>2019</strong> following a 25-year career with<br />

the company...Chef Antonio Park has partnered<br />

Antonio Park<br />

with Air Canada to<br />

offer destinationinspired<br />

meals on<br />

select Air Canada flights<br />

to Asia and South<br />

America. Park’s menus<br />

will be available in<br />

Signature, Premium<br />

Economy and Economy Class on all flights<br />

from Canada to Japan and exclusively in<br />

Signature Class on all other flights departing<br />

Canada to Asia and South America...Yum! Brands<br />

has named new CEOs for its Taco Bell and Pizza<br />

Hut divisions. Mark King, former president of<br />

Adidas Group North America, has taken the reins<br />

at Taco Bell, while Artie Starrs, president of Pizza<br />

Hut U.S., has been promoted to the chain’s CEO<br />

position.<br />

SUPPLY SIDE<br />

Lamb Weston has introduced Stealth Fries Potato<br />

Dippers — a new product made to help operators<br />

serve dips in more delicious and easy ways.<br />

Potato Dippers are designed to be the perfect<br />

shape for scooping up dips and the Stealth<br />

coating helps them stay crispy to carry the<br />

weight of heartier dips...Winston Foodservice has<br />

released a redesigned CVap product line featuring<br />

aesthetic upgrades, as well as improvements in<br />

the electronics, programming and functionality.<br />

The new line is still powered by Winston’s<br />

patented Controlled Vapor Technology (CVap)<br />

and includes holding cabinets, cook-and-hold<br />

ovens and retherm ovens of various sizes and<br />

capabilities...Posera Ltd. has released a new<br />

user interface (UI) for its Maitre’D POS system.<br />

The new UI is specifically designed for Maitre’D<br />

version 7.08. It features a contemporary design<br />

with sleeker aesthetics and personalized menu<br />

images, which optimize screen real estate and<br />

make user navigation easier.<br />

CORRECTIONS In the September <strong>2019</strong> issue of F&H,<br />

a profile on Il Fornello incorrectly identified two new<br />

restaurant openings in Barrie and Ottawa... In our<br />

Show Preview, the product images for SBS and<br />

Supramatic were flipped. We apologize for the errors.<br />

10 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY OCTOBER <strong>2019</strong> FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM


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FROM THE DESK OF NPD<br />

THE GREAT<br />

CANNABIS<br />

DEBATE<br />

Cannabis legalization offers significant<br />

opportunities for savvy foodservice operators<br />

Unless you’ve been living under<br />

a rock for the past 12 months,<br />

you’ve likely found yourself in the<br />

middle of the debate on Canada’s<br />

decision to legalize cannabis.<br />

The federal Cannabis Act came into effect<br />

<strong>October</strong> 17, 2018 and made Canada the<br />

second country in the world, after Uruguay,<br />

to formally legalize the cultivation, possession,<br />

acquisition and consumption of cannabis<br />

and its by-products. In fact, Canada is the<br />

first and only G7 and G20 nation to formally<br />

legalize cannabis in such a way.<br />

Whether you agree or disagree with the<br />

federal government’s decision, one thing is<br />

certain — the new law has transformed the<br />

role of cannabis in our society. Not long after<br />

the Act was passed, several retailers opened<br />

“cafés” that catered specifically to cannabis<br />

users. And while most of these locations were<br />

not operating legally, it’s become clear there’s<br />

significant demand for cannabis and cannabis-related<br />

products in both foodservice<br />

and retail.<br />

While foodservice operators are not yet<br />

able to integrate cannabis into their offerings,<br />

there’s been much discussion about the<br />

next stage of legalization, which will include<br />

edibles (food products containing THC) and<br />

other forms of cannabis that can be used to<br />

enhance certain food offerings (think oils,<br />

salad dressings, seasonings, et cetera).<br />

While we wait for these decisions to<br />

be made, The NPD Group is looking at<br />

how cannabis users differ from noncannabis<br />

users.<br />

UNDERSTANDING THE CANNABIS<br />

USER AT FOODSERVICE<br />

When comparing users to non-users at<br />

foodservice, NPD’s data shows users tend to<br />

skew younger, with the 34-and-under cohort<br />

representing 45 per cent of traffic compared<br />

to 33 per cent of non-users.<br />

They’re also more inclined to make foodservice<br />

purchases through retail (11 per cent<br />

compared to nine per cent) and less inclined<br />

to visit full-service restaurants (17 per cent<br />

compared to 23 per cent for non-users). QSR<br />

usage, on the other hand, remains steady<br />

amongst users.<br />

While users eat out at QSR as often as the<br />

average CREST visitor, their brand preferences<br />

vary slightly. They’re more inclined<br />

to visit QSR pizza, burger and sandwich<br />

concepts and less inclined to visit QSR coffee<br />

locations (an ironic finding given the initial<br />

media focus on “pot cafés” post-legalization).<br />

All off-premise access modes are overdeveloped<br />

among cannabis users, including<br />

delivery. And while there’s no obvious daypart<br />

that’s over-developed among cannabis<br />

users, breakfast sandwiches and hash<br />

browns are among the most over-developed<br />

menu items.<br />

In terms of beverages, alcohol consumption<br />

is on par with cannabis users, while<br />

coffee is under-developed. Soft drinks, iced<br />

tea, smoothies and milkshakes are all overdeveloped.<br />

Perhaps not surprisingly, salty<br />

snacks and candy are both over-developed<br />

with cannabis users as well.<br />

It’s important to remember our understanding<br />

of the cannabis user in foodservice<br />

is just beginning to take shape. This is truly<br />

a tipping point in Canadian history that will<br />

present significant opportunities for savvy<br />

retailers and foodservice operators committed<br />

to spending the time to truly understand<br />

this unique consumer and their demands.<br />

Those who do it right will have a significant<br />

first-move advantage when future legislation<br />

is passed. FH<br />

Vince Sgabellone is<br />

a foodservice industry<br />

analyst with The<br />

NPD Group. He can be<br />

reached at vince.<br />

sgabellone@npd.com<br />

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM<br />

OCTOBER <strong>2019</strong> FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY 13


LABOUR<br />

MENTORING<br />

MATTERS<br />

For employees and businesses alike,<br />

mentoring programs offer numerous perks<br />

STORY BY REBECCA HARRIS<br />

After nearly 40 years in the hospitality<br />

industry, Kevin Murphy says<br />

mentorship has been a long-term<br />

commitment for his business.<br />

“However, within the last five or<br />

six years, it’s become so much more important<br />

[due to] labour issues facing companies,”<br />

says the president and CEO of Charlottetownbased<br />

Murphy Hospitality Group (MHG).<br />

“And no matter what business you’re in,<br />

if you’re not investing in a mentoring program<br />

or initiative, your labour issue will be<br />

more acute.”<br />

Across MHG, which includes 16 food-andbeverage<br />

operations, two boutique hotels and<br />

the Prince Edward Island Brewing Company,<br />

mentoring is about nurturing a culture of<br />

continuous learning. For example, MHG’s<br />

Culinary-U program involves education sessions<br />

eight times a year, with chefs developing<br />

and coaching back-of-house teams on topics<br />

essential to operating a successful kitchen.<br />

The company also invites staff at various<br />

levels — from chefs to managers — to participate<br />

in business-planning sessions. “They feel<br />

ownership and like they can contribute, but<br />

we also want to teach them about the business<br />

side of the [industry],” says Murphy.<br />

Less formally, mentors in the organization<br />

will identify promising employees and<br />

help send them back to school. “A lot of<br />

times, we’ll ask what education they have<br />

and if they have any interest in going back to<br />

school. We’ll help them do that and work the<br />

schedule around them,” says Murphy. “A great<br />

example is, two years ago, we had an assistant<br />

manager with a diploma from the local college.<br />

She was very bright and I said, ‘did you<br />

ever think about getting a business degree?’<br />

Well, this person is now graduating with a<br />

business degree. And she’s still with us.”<br />

For employees and businesses alike, there<br />

are myriad benefits to mentoring programs.<br />

On the mentee side, some well-known benefits<br />

are improved skills, higher job satisfaction<br />

and guidance on professional development.<br />

For mentors, the rewards include recognition<br />

as experts within the organization, learning<br />

new perspectives and gaining personal satisfaction.<br />

The translation for businesses? Happy,<br />

engaged employees and greater retention.<br />

According to a recent CNBC/Survey<br />

Monkey Workplace Happiness Survey, companies<br />

that embrace a culture of mentorship<br />

boost workplace happiness and lower the<br />

likelihood of losing their best performers. The<br />

June <strong>2019</strong> survey of nearly 8,000 U.S. employees<br />

found those with mentors are more likely<br />

to say they’re satisfied with their jobs (91 per<br />

cent compared to 79 per cent) and are more<br />

likely to say their company provides opportunities<br />

for advancement (71 per cent compared<br />

to 47 per cent). Four in 10 workers who don’t<br />

have a mentor say they’ve considered quitting<br />

their job in the past three months.<br />

Sodexo Canada has had a formal leadership-development<br />

mentoring program in<br />

place since 2010. The company spent the last<br />

year consulting its operators and redesigning<br />

and updating the program. As Ariane<br />

Montcalm, director of Human Resources at<br />

Sodexo Canada, explains, the new program<br />

takes advantage of various forms of learning,<br />

such as peer-to-peer and project-based. It will<br />

consist of group-based mentoring with one<br />

coach per three or four learners. Participants<br />

will be supported by various modes of learning,<br />

including group discussions, an online<br />

curriculum, an on-the-job project and a series<br />

of live and virtual learning events.<br />

In the past, Sodexo Canada’s mentoring<br />

programs have helped employees develop<br />

skills, grow their relationship-building abilities<br />

and develop a sharper understanding of<br />

their own development path, says Montcalm.<br />

In turn, mentoring allows the company to<br />

develop its future leaders.<br />

“Mentoring is a powerful form of learning<br />

that can grow our emerging leaders,”<br />

says Montcalm. “They can develop critical<br />

and strategic-thinking skills, which are often<br />

more challenging to develop than through<br />

traditional learning modes. We’ve seen many<br />

of our employees’ careers launched following<br />

their participation in mentoring programs.”<br />

For foodservice operators that want to start<br />

a mentoring program or improve their existing<br />

one, Montcalm offers a few tips. First, be<br />

clear on your goals and the constraints you<br />

have to work within. Then find the right balance<br />

of structure and flexibility. That way, the<br />

experience can be customized to each learner,<br />

while still achieving desired business goals.<br />

Finally, secure resources and leadership support<br />

to ensure the program is successfully<br />

managed. “A lot of work happens behind the<br />

scenes of a successful mentoring program,”<br />

says Montcalm. FH<br />

iSTOCK.COM/WILDPIXEL<br />

14 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY OCTOBER <strong>2019</strong> FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM


TOP 30 PROFILE<br />

DANIELA<br />

ALHANOVA<br />

Assistant Food & Beverage Manager,<br />

Club Lounge, Sheraton Centre Toronto<br />

Story by Shelby O’Connor<br />

“Along with her undeniable<br />

talent, Daniela is always<br />

an absolute joy to work<br />

with. She’s a true team<br />

player and always<br />

manages to foster positive<br />

discussions and bring<br />

the best out of other<br />

associates and leaders”<br />

— MARCOS YU, DIRECTOR OF ROOMS,<br />

THE SHERATON CENTRE TORONTO<br />

Daniela Alhanova’s<br />

passion for hospitality<br />

began on her family<br />

trips to Marmaris,<br />

Turkey when she was<br />

a child. As a regular<br />

at the Marmaris Park<br />

hotel, she came to<br />

admire the property’s<br />

general manager and<br />

aspired to become a<br />

GM herself one day.<br />

When Alhanova<br />

was 14 years old, she moved with her family from<br />

the Kyrgyzstan Republic (Kyrgyzstan) to Canada<br />

to escape the aftermath of the Tulip Revolution.<br />

Uncertain about her future, she attended a university<br />

fair and discovered Ryerson University’s<br />

Hospitality and Tourism Management program.<br />

Remembering her hospitality aspirations as a<br />

child, she joined the program in 2010.<br />

While at Ryerson, Alhanova thrived, winning<br />

many awards and certificates for her efforts,<br />

including first and third place with her teams<br />

at two separate HTMSA Tourism Case Study<br />

Competitions. She also applied to Ryerson’s<br />

exchange program and was accepted for a semester<br />

at Helsinki, Finland’s Haaga Helia University<br />

of Applied Science to study hospitality and tourism.<br />

There, she got to work and cook alongside<br />

several of Finland’s Top Chef finalists.<br />

After returning to Canada, Alhanova graduated<br />

from Ryerson with a Bachelor of Commerce in<br />

Hospitality and Tourism Management and was<br />

offered a job as a front-desk agent at Sheraton<br />

Centre Toronto.<br />

Wanderlust struck Alhanova again, however,<br />

and she soon moved to Hong Kong to work as a<br />

management trainee at the Kempinski Hotel. In<br />

just two years, she helped implement several new<br />

programs and events and was promoted to assistant<br />

Guest-Relations manager and then Guest-<br />

Relations manager.<br />

Utilizing everything she learned from her experiences<br />

abroad and in Canada, Alhanova returned<br />

to the Sheraton Centre Toronto to take the reins<br />

as the assistant Food-and-Beverage manager for<br />

the hotel’s club lounge. There, she works closely<br />

with her team to improve the food-and-beverage<br />

menu while looking for future opportunities to<br />

showcase her passion for the industry. FH<br />

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM<br />

OCTOBER <strong>2019</strong> FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY 15


FOOD FILE<br />

GLOBALLY INSPIRED MENUS MEET DEMANDS OF WELL-TRAVELLED DINERS<br />

Story by Janine Kennedy<br />

Unique, bold, authentic<br />

— these words surface<br />

repeatedly when discussing<br />

globally inspired<br />

cuisine in Canada.<br />

Changes to how chefs<br />

present global cuisines<br />

are underway, due<br />

largely to the demand<br />

for unique menu items<br />

that tell a story. While<br />

Canadian consumers are<br />

generally well travelled<br />

and educated on global<br />

flavours, each individual<br />

has their own idea of<br />

what makes an international<br />

dish authentic. It’s<br />

up to foodservice operators<br />

to provide a multifaceted<br />

guest experience<br />

to meet these<br />

growing expectations.<br />

16 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY OCTOBER <strong>2019</strong> FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM


Recent research from Chicago-based Technomic shows 62 per<br />

cent of diners are eating globally inspired cuisine at least once<br />

a month and demand is largely driven by younger diners.<br />

“Younger generations are generally driving demand for innovation,<br />

including global cuisines,” Anne Mills, senior manager of<br />

Consumer Insights at Technomic explains. “They’re more diverse<br />

and have had greater exposure to different cuisines from a younger<br />

age — thanks to the Internet — so they’re more open to trying<br />

new foods and flavours.”<br />

Ethics have become an important consideration when discussing<br />

globally inspired cuisine and many industry experts say<br />

we need to refer to it differently in a country as multicultural as<br />

Canada. Many within the industry are also concerned with issues<br />

surrounding cultural appropriation. Jo-Ann McArthur, president<br />

of Nourish Food Marketing in Toronto, says an entire generation<br />

of Canadians now exist who have never known anything other<br />

than multicultural restaurant offerings.<br />

“We aren’t using the term “ethnic” anymore — especially not<br />

in Toronto, where Generation Z has grown up with these types<br />

of international cuisines as staples in their lives,” she explains.<br />

“They’re just multi-cultural food offerings — a true reflection of<br />

Toronto as a city.”<br />

For those living outside Toronto, ethnic backgrounds vary<br />

considerably throughout Canada (First-Nations groups being<br />

considered the only true ethnic Canadians). Each ethnicity represented<br />

within Canada, as well as the distinct geography of each<br />

area, influences the food culture of that region.<br />

“What we’re seeing now [in globally inspired food trends] is<br />

more regional cuisine,” McArthur continues. “People don’t want<br />

‘Asian’ food anymore; they want to know what they eat in Taiwan.<br />

They’re going out for Vietnamese or Filipino food. There’s no<br />

blanket terminology anymore.”<br />

Arlene Stein, founder and executive director of Toronto’s<br />

Terroir Symposium, agrees the terminology needs to change<br />

around this cuisine.<br />

“Language is powerful and important in the way we<br />

frame things,” she says. “People are questioning why the differentiation<br />

of ‘ethnic’ to equate non-Western cuisines? By what<br />

we have learned and researched over the years, ‘ethnic’ is a racist<br />

term. By clinging to these [differentiations] we’re ignoring the<br />

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM<br />

OCTOBER <strong>2019</strong> FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY 17


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FOOD FILE<br />

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KEEPING THINGS SPICY<br />

Choosing the right spices for your global-inspired menus is<br />

essential. Spices are the make-up for any global cuisine; the<br />

right combination of aromatic anise with black pepper, for<br />

instance, will deepen the flavour of a Chinese-inspired pork belly<br />

while a bright combination of chili, cumin and oregano adds that<br />

unique, smoky touch to authentic Mexican-inspired fare.<br />

Juriaan Snellen, executive corporate chef for McCormick<br />

Canada, says globally inspired flavours are on the rise, largely in<br />

part to adventurous Canadians exploring the globe. But instead<br />

of enjoying foods from generalized areas of the world, Canadian<br />

diners are now looking for more regional, unique food experiences.<br />

For example, a Szechuan-inspired hot pot meal, or Dim Sum<br />

from Hong Kong, are replacing the all-encompassing Chinese<br />

restaurant of yesteryear. Snellen says diners are ready for more<br />

adventurous meals across all foodservice segments.<br />

“Consumers are more open to experience authentic globallyinspired<br />

food,” he explains. “There is a focus on Japanese cuisine<br />

[right now] — beyond sushi, like traditional Izakaya-style restaurants<br />

where diners can have a variety of small plates all with<br />

distinct tastes, textures and flavours.”<br />

Here are some spice blends that add plenty of unique flavour<br />

without adding extra prep to menu items.<br />

Club House Tandoori Masala The best blend for<br />

making Indian-inspired meat or fish rubs, or mix with<br />

melted ghee (clarified butter) and garlic to brush<br />

on freshly-made naan.<br />

Lawry’s Asian Ginger, Garlic and Chile Rub<br />

Think the perfect Chinese-inspired pulled-pork steam<br />

bun, wok-fried prawns or dry-rubbed, grilled squid.<br />

This spice blend transcends regions and food types.<br />

Grill Mates Mojito Lime Seasoning Blend<br />

Make the perfect grilled-fish taco or pork carnitas<br />

with this zesty seasoning blend.<br />

beautiful multiculturalism we enjoy in Canada.”<br />

With Technomic research indicating 36 per cent of Americans<br />

would like to explore regional varieties of mainstream global cuisines<br />

to try new foods and flavours, going hyper-regional with menu items<br />

is a safe bet — if you can do it authentically.<br />

“It’s not just dinner Canadian diners are interested in now, either,”<br />

McArthur adds. “People want to know ‘what do they eat for breakfast,<br />

or dessert, in other countries?’ As a result, meal offerings are<br />

changing with this idea of regionality.”<br />

Restaurants such as Toronto’s Maha’s Egyptian Brunch are driving<br />

innovation in this area. At Maha’s, you can dine on Egyptian breakfast<br />

staples, such as the Cairo Classic (fava bean foole with sliced<br />

boiled egg, falafel, tomato, feta, charred balady bread and salata balady,<br />

$16) or Egga, a savoury omelette, packed with fresh herbs ($15).<br />

In Montreal, at Kaza Maza Restaurant, Fadi Sakr has been serving<br />

up authentic and regionally influenced Lebanese and Syrian foods<br />

for the past decade.<br />

“We’re now celebrating our 10th anniversary,” Sakr says. “When<br />

we first opened, it didn’t take us long to start getting busy. About a<br />

month after we opened, we received a good review in the [Montreal]<br />

GLOBAL FLAVOURS Roast rabbit (above left) and paneer cakes<br />

from Vikram Vij; a selection of Middle-Eastern dips from<br />

Kaza Maza (below)<br />

Gazette. About two weeks later, we were in another paper. It started<br />

picking up from there.”<br />

Sakr credits the regional approach as one of the reasons it’s<br />

become one of Montreal’s most-popular Middle-Eastern restaurants<br />

with its Aleppo-specific menu options, such as Kefta Karaz ($20),<br />

which combines minced lamb with spices, walnuts and pistachios<br />

before cooking. The dish is then garnished with a sour-cherry sauce.<br />

“This [type of kefta] is not typical of the general Syrian and<br />

Lebanese region,” he explains. “This is more of an Armenian specialty;<br />

it shows the Armenian influence on the region of Aleppo. Our<br />

idea was to bring something new [to the city]. Montrealers are familiar<br />

with Lebanese cuisine — there are a lot of fast-food restaurants<br />

here, but that’s not our style of cooking.”<br />

In recent years, Syrian food offerings have been on the rise<br />

throughout Canada with the influx of refugees being welcomed to<br />

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM<br />

OCTOBER <strong>2019</strong> FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY 19


FOOD FILE<br />

TASTES OF THE WORLD Middle-Eastern dishes, such as Kefta Karaz<br />

(above right) have put Montreal’s Kaza Maza on the culinary map<br />

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both rural and urban areas. Newcomers to Canada have started food<br />

businesses that have further enriched their regions’ food culture and<br />

contributed to the nation-wide demand for authentic menu items.<br />

Plant-based and flexitarian lifestyles are becoming increasingly<br />

popular among Canadian consumers and globally inspired foodservice<br />

offerings are a natural way to help meet this demand. Spiceheavy,<br />

texturally diverse menu items inspired by the Middle East,<br />

India, Latin America or Southeast Asia pack vegan and vegetarian<br />

dishes with flavour and protein.<br />

“We do get a lot of vegetarian guests and have a lot of vegetarian<br />

options on our menu,” Sakr continues. “Half of our menu is vegetarian.<br />

We didn’t<br />

have to invent<br />

any new dishes;<br />

this is what<br />

we’re eating back<br />

home — classic<br />

recipes.”<br />

Traditionally,<br />

globally inspired<br />

foodservice<br />

options such as<br />

Thai, Chinese or<br />

Indian cuisines<br />

have been limited<br />

to QSR’s,<br />

takeout and<br />

casual eateries,<br />

but 25 years ago,<br />

Indian-born<br />

and Europeantrained<br />

chef<br />

Vikram Vij —<br />

together with<br />

his partner<br />

Meeru Dhalwala<br />

INSPIRED TASTES Indian-inspired pork<br />

tenderloin dish from Vikram Vij<br />

— challenged that idea by opening Vij’s Restaurant in Vancouver.<br />

They started a trend that combines high-end, classical technique<br />

with authentic food traditions; serving dishes such as classic Lamb<br />

Popsicles (marinated in wine and served with fenugreek-cream<br />

curry; $11 each) and sablefish in tomato, yogurt and garam-masala<br />

broth ($32.50).<br />

“I studied in Austria, so you have to look at it from a different<br />

approach: a young boy who’s a French-trained chef, who felt<br />

his cuisine was not being represented properly,” he explains. “Even<br />

though Indian food is as complex as any cuisine in the world — it<br />

was always represented as cheap, all-you-can-eat buffets. I wanted my<br />

cuisine to receive the same love and respect as any other [high-end]<br />

cuisine in Canada.”<br />

According to Vij, a shift has occurred in the way people want to<br />

enjoy globally inspired foods in Canada. Technological advancements<br />

within foodservice have made ordering a meal for delivery an easy<br />

task and has ultimately affected the way Canadians are dining out.<br />

“If you have a 110-seat Indian restaurant [in Canada], you’ll<br />

struggle,” he says. “More diners are choosing larger, mid-range chains<br />

that offer a variety of globally inspired dishes than smaller, independent<br />

restaurants serving a specific type of cuisine. You’re better off<br />

opening a 45-seat restaurant and having to turn people away.”<br />

In addition to Vij’s Restaurant, Vij and Dhalwala own and operate<br />

Vij’s Rangoli and My Shanti (both in Vancouver) and Vij’s Sutra,<br />

located in Victoria. Vij has recently expanded his business to<br />

supply other segments of foodservice. These offerings include a<br />

variety of quality Indian-inspired flash-frozen meals suitable for<br />

large-scale catering, which are sold in bulk (including several<br />

vegetarian options).<br />

Kendale_QV.indd 1<br />

2018-05-15 3:37 PM<br />

20 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY OCTOBER <strong>2019</strong> FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM


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FOOD FILE<br />

TRENDING TASTES<br />

Green curry<br />

congee made<br />

with McCormick<br />

spice blends<br />

At McCormick Canada, adaptable variations of globally inspired<br />

dishes are the name of the game when it comes to modern menu<br />

design. Curries are found all over the world, but going with lesserknown<br />

recipes, such as its Mozambique Chicken and Shrimp Curry<br />

(made with coconut milk, tomatoes, cinnamon and a range of Club<br />

House spice blends) will pique the curiosity of diners and add a<br />

fresh punch of flavour to an otherwise common restaurant dish.<br />

Executive corporate chef Juriaan Snellen says using the right<br />

spice blend in menu items can balance out the amount of salt or<br />

sugar that might otherwise be added to boost the flavour of a dish.<br />

“Spice blends are a great and easy way to infuse global flavours<br />

into any recipe,” he says. “Today’s consumers are demanding more<br />

flavour, but still expect salt and sugar levels [in menu items] to<br />

be low.”<br />

Snellen suggests bulking up the flavour of soup broths with deep<br />

spices or adding a dash of garam masala to shortbread-cookie<br />

dough to transform a classic comfort snack into a South Asianinspired<br />

treat.<br />

According to Toronto-based chef, food writer, educator and<br />

activist Joshna Maharaj, we shouldn’t be afraid to let our Canadian<br />

multiculturalism shine. While authenticity and avoiding cultural<br />

appropriation is important, these things shouldn’t discourage<br />

operators from incorporating more global flavour into their menu<br />

items.<br />

“A great way to understand this [globally inspired food] trend is<br />

menus are starting to reflect the cultural diversity that exists among<br />

Canadians,” she says. “There’s an opportunity for chefs and restaurateurs<br />

to open up and connect to their communities by investing<br />

in diversifying their menus. This is less about chasing one specific<br />

cultural dish and more about embracing a more accurate idea of<br />

who Canadians are.”<br />

Stein agrees. “How do we define ourselves in Canada? The reality<br />

is, we’re the second-largest country in the world, with many<br />

different people who have brought culinary traditions to our landscape.<br />

Sticking with one national food identity is a detriment — it<br />

holds us back from respecting and valuing all of the things that go<br />

into regional food systems.” FH


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SERIES<br />

A Year in Niagara:<br />

SUMMER<br />

STORY BY BRUCE MCADAMS | PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEFF KIRK<br />

In the third instalment of our fourpart<br />

series on The Restaurant at<br />

Pearl Morissette, we examine how<br />

the culinary team addresses the<br />

challenge of accommodating guests’<br />

dietary restrictions without compromising<br />

the quality of the menu<br />

Chef Daniel Hadida leads the<br />

kitchen at The Restaurant at Pearl<br />

Morissette; (inset) Bruce McAdams<br />

in conversation with chef Hadida<br />

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM<br />

OCTOBER <strong>2019</strong> FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY 25


When I arrive at The Restaurant<br />

at Pearl Morissette, it’s midafternoon<br />

and the staff are<br />

as welcoming as ever, but it’s<br />

been a long and busy summer<br />

and it shows. I spend time catching up with<br />

chef Eric Robertson, who informs me they’re short<br />

a few bodies in the kitchen. A turned ankle during<br />

a lunchtime soccer game, knee surgery for another<br />

staff member and they’re down two cooks. “The<br />

guests don’t notice any difference, but we work a<br />

little harder to get a 10-course tasting menu out.”<br />

Maitre d’ Roisin Fagin comes over to say hello<br />

as I wait to speak to chef Daniel Hadida. I ask<br />

Fagin if she saw the last story I’d written about<br />

the restaurant. I’m pleased to hear she’d seen<br />

and enjoyed it but, she points out that I referred<br />

to their patrons as customers — something they<br />

never do. Fagin says they refer to people who dine<br />

with them as guests. This exchange cements what<br />

I’ve come to know about this restaurant — leadership’s<br />

commitment to the guest experience is<br />

not just rhetoric, it’s something that starts at the<br />

top. If it didn’t, the kind of ‘escapism’ the team is<br />

trying to provide would not be possible.<br />

ONE WITH NATURE The idyllic view from the restaurant’s dining room<br />

26 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY OCTOBER <strong>2019</strong><br />

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM


SERIES<br />

There are several items I want to cover for this<br />

instalment of this series, including the increasing<br />

challenge of dealing with dietary restrictions and<br />

Hadida’s thoughts on the state of the restaurant<br />

industry. Although he’s trying to change the current<br />

restaurant model, Hadida recently said he<br />

feels the industry is making progress and I ask<br />

him to explain his thinking.<br />

When it comes to dietary-restriction requests<br />

from guests, Hadida and Robertson admit they<br />

gave the issue huge consideration when they were<br />

opening the restaurant. They considered saying<br />

no and even charging more. In the end, they<br />

committed to accommodating any requests, as<br />

it aligned with their goal of providing a luxury<br />

experience. “Our decision is validated by the great feedback<br />

from guests who are touched by the effort,” says Robertson.<br />

Hadida adds he hasn’t wasted a moment second-guessing the<br />

decision; it doesn’t make him happy, but he’s grateful.<br />

When asked about the process they use to make this happen,<br />

the chefs produce a reservation sheet for the upcoming week,<br />

which shows approximately one-quarter of the 240 guests they<br />

will serve have some form of dietary restrictions. There are<br />

vegans, pescatarians, guests on gluten-free diets and those with<br />

allergies to mangos and cinnamon.<br />

In order to deliver the high level<br />

of cuisine they’re committed to,<br />

Robertson says the team looked<br />

for ways to make handling these<br />

requests less of a burden. Given it’s<br />

a reservation-based restaurant that<br />

books months in advance, it’s able<br />

to receive information from guests<br />

ahead of time. When I’ve made<br />

online reservations at the restaurant,<br />

I’ve been prompted by Tock<br />

(the online reservation system) to provide any dietary restrictions<br />

my party may have. Fagin or another member of the service<br />

team follow up by phone a week in advance of a reservation<br />

to ensure they have all necessary information.<br />

The chefs recommend I attend the restaurant’s weekly<br />

LEADING BY EXAMPLE<br />

Chefs Eric Robertson<br />

and Daniel Hadida<br />

facilitate the team’s<br />

weekly meeting<br />

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM<br />

OCTOBER <strong>2019</strong> FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY 27


SLUG HERE<br />

28 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY OCTOBER <strong>2019</strong> FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM


SERIES<br />

menu meeting to get a better understanding of<br />

the efforts required to deliver on this promise. I<br />

arrive just as the meeting is getting under way.<br />

All managers and employees are present, including<br />

the farm team and forager, who have had a<br />

particularly busy year as the restaurant has more<br />

than doubled the size of its gardens as well as<br />

adding a greenhouse on site. The first 20 minutes<br />

are taken up with what Hadida refers to as a<br />

weekly check-in. Everyone takes a turn sharing<br />

what they’ve done on Monday and Tuesday, the<br />

days the restaurant is closed and everyone has off.<br />

There’s a comfortable feeling around the table, as<br />

well as a sense of equity among all.<br />

Once the catch up is complete, the team moves<br />

on to the business of the menu. Robertson shares<br />

the details of the 10-course tasting menu ($96)<br />

they’ll be preparing for the week. One dish that<br />

catches my attention features sweet corn with<br />

sea urchin and black-bean miso finished with a<br />

plant grown in the garden called ‘rabbit tobacco.’<br />

When crushed, this plant gives off the scent of<br />

maple syrup. Notes are taken by staff and questions<br />

asked before moving on to how to handle<br />

this weeks’ dietary restrictions. The team has prepared<br />

an “allergy sheet” for the week that’s broken<br />

down by each service.<br />

Robertson starts his review with Thursday<br />

dinner service, which includes 40 reservations.<br />

The allergy sheet shows 12 of these guests have<br />

some form of dietary restriction. The team goes<br />

through every plate that will be affected by these<br />

requests and, while some substitutions are obvious,<br />

others take several<br />

team members’ input to<br />

come up with an appropriate<br />

alternative.<br />

The next part of the<br />

meeting involves the<br />

restaurant’s forager and<br />

farm team, who provide<br />

an update on what<br />

they’ve been working on.<br />

Summer is a slow time<br />

for foraging, but there’s<br />

been lots of work in the<br />

gardens — including<br />

harvesting a variety of<br />

melons and squash and<br />

planning and planting<br />

beds for the upcoming<br />

seasons. During the farm update, I’m shocked to hear the farm<br />

team make the group aware they’ve planted some lettuce and<br />

arugula specifically for staff meals and it will be ready in the<br />

upcoming week. Though I’m aware of Hadida’s belief that staff<br />

meals provide an opportunity for the front and back of houses<br />

to get together in a transaction-free environment, I had no idea<br />

they were growing specific foods for these meals.<br />

SHAKE,<br />

SAUCE<br />

GEARING UP The team<br />

meets to discuss<br />

each week’s menu<br />

and address any<br />

dietary restrictions<br />

that need to be<br />

accommodated<br />

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FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM<br />

OCTOBER <strong>2019</strong> FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY 29


SERIES<br />

After the meeting, I sit down with Hadida for<br />

a broader industry discussion. Despite his belief<br />

that the current restaurant model is broken, he’s<br />

positive about the progress made in the last 10<br />

years. He believes the restaurant industry is in<br />

a transitionary period. “I was fed that passion<br />

bullshit for a long time; I was institutionalized,”<br />

he says of a business model that was old, tired,<br />

and hadn’t changed in years. When asked what’s<br />

changed, he compares the industry to “a piece<br />

of kitchen equipment you move and see that it’s<br />

dirty underneath. In the past, the industry has not<br />

addressed the dirt, we’ve just put the equipment<br />

back — we’re now addressing that dirt.”<br />

It’s a Friday night and time for me to enjoy The Restaurant at<br />

Pearl Morissette as a guest. My companions — one of whom is<br />

vegetarian — and I arrive and after a warm greeting, are shown<br />

to our table. Wine orders are taken and we have the menu<br />

explained by one of the servers. My friend comments that the<br />

term ‘vegetarian’ was never used when it was explained she’ll be<br />

enjoying a menu with a few different ingredients. In all, four<br />

of the 10 courses come out prepared slightly differently for my<br />

guest, including a dish prepared with wild mushrooms in place<br />

of fish. At the end of the meal, each of us is presented a printed<br />

copy of the menu we enjoyed to take home. We’re all left speechless<br />

when we see that my vegetarian friend’s menu featured the<br />

exact dishes she had enjoyed that evening. We expected her<br />

menu would read like ours, but the team had taken the time to<br />

personalize a version of the menu just for her.<br />

A life-long vegetarian, my friend says she’s never had a<br />

dining experience with a set menu where she’s not felt that she<br />

was being ‘accommodated for’ or even made to feel a burden.<br />

Upon leaving the restaurant, we thanked Hadida for a magical<br />

experience. My friend told him how special she was made to feel<br />

by the restaurant’s seamless accommodation of her vegetarianism.<br />

A smile crosses the chef’s face as he receives the praise<br />

for his team’s effort. At least for this moment, I’m certain he’s<br />

pleased he decided to face the challenge of dietary restrictions<br />

head-on. FH<br />

ALL HANDS ON DECK Chef<br />

Daniel Hadida is handson<br />

in all parts of the<br />

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to service prep<br />

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SUPPLIER PROFILE<br />

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Fresh off a rebranding, Garland/Welbilt still tops the<br />

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By Laura Pratt<br />

When it comes to the longstanding foodservice-equipment supplier<br />

Garland/Welbilt, Brian Earle, manager of National Operations<br />

for McDonald’s Restaurants of Canada, is emphatic in his recommendation.<br />

“Garland/Welbilt is one of [our] best suppliers,”<br />

he says. Full stop. You bet, agrees Paulo Ferreira, senior director,<br />

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FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM<br />

OCTOBER <strong>2019</strong> FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY 31


It’s a common refrain among<br />

customers of this, the world’s<br />

largest equipment supplier<br />

to restaurant chains. Freshly<br />

renamed but steeped in history,<br />

Garland/Welbilt services<br />

all aspects of foodservice. But<br />

chains are the biggest piece, says<br />

Jeff McMullen, vice-president of<br />

Sales for Canada, because they<br />

tend to be the most forwardthinking.<br />

Garland’s history in Canada<br />

is a complicated one that dates back to<br />

1929, when brothers Henry and Alexander<br />

Hirsch established the Welbilt Stove<br />

Company. But Garland stoves have been<br />

around since the late 1800s, when they<br />

were the beloved output of the Michigan<br />

Stove Company. Today, these wood- and<br />

coal-burning cast-iron parlour and potbellied<br />

antiques are the darlings of the<br />

collector set.<br />

Welbilt acquired the Detroit-based<br />

company in 1955 and the next 60 years<br />

were spent adding brands to the portfolio<br />

and shifting ownership. Manitowoc took<br />

over the company in 2008, but eight years<br />

later spun off Manitowoc Foodservice.<br />

NAME GAME Welbilt is commonly known<br />

to most as Garland due to the popularity<br />

and history of its flagship range brand<br />

Keen to find a name representative of<br />

all the brands in its collection (11 in all:<br />

Kolpak, Merrychef, Manitowoc, Multiplex,<br />

Cleveland, Convotherm, Delfield,<br />

Frymaster, Garland, Lincoln and Merco),<br />

the company approached the Hirsch family<br />

to see if the rights to Welbilt were still<br />

available. They were, and in 2017, the<br />

company returned to its roots and once<br />

again became Welbilt.<br />

“There was confusion in the market,”<br />

says McMullen, of the evolution. “People<br />

couldn’t associate all our brands with the<br />

Manitowoc name. We [wanted] a name<br />

that would resonate as a top-quality brand<br />

that can supply everything for<br />

the kitchen.”<br />

In another identity twist, Welbilt is<br />

actually known to most as Garland, thanks<br />

to the strength of its flagship range brand<br />

and the history in its rear-view. In 1952,<br />

Russell Prowe brought the range part of<br />

the business to Toronto and started building<br />

units in his garage. Getting to the<br />

point where Canadians know Welbilt as<br />

the umbrella brand, McMullen says, will<br />

be a matter of time, education and effort.<br />

A rose by any name, Garland/Welbilt<br />

is an industry leader in technology and<br />

innovation and the last 20 years has seen<br />

great advancement on this landscape,<br />

including a surge of digital and electronic<br />

novelty. Welbilt was the first to build a<br />

two-sided grill, for McDonald’s, and offers<br />

equipment that can cook food 10-times<br />

faster than anything else — without<br />

compromising quality. Welbilt’s Garland<br />

Xpress Grill’s touch-screen control means<br />

all the operator has to do is drop a hamburger<br />

patty onto the grill and push a button.<br />

The robotic plate cooks both sides of<br />

the burger at once and is more than twice<br />

as fast as traditional grill methods.<br />

The company, which also has a partsand-service<br />

arm, KitchenCare, and a kitchen-design<br />

arm, fitKitchen, prides itself on<br />

understanding the customer’s operation,<br />

challenges, capacities and needs. Its range<br />

of brands means Garland/Welbilt can offer<br />

solutions others can’t. “A customer might<br />

say they need to buy a combi oven, but<br />

we might assess their needs and say they<br />

should have a convection oven and<br />

a steamer instead and here’s why,”<br />

says McMullen.<br />

Labour challenges, including both its<br />

industry paucity and skill shortages, have<br />

spawned equipment that’s simple and<br />

intuitive, with touchscreens and the ability<br />

to standardize recipes. The younger<br />

customer has also made its mark, inspiring<br />

the emergence of foodservice that facilitates<br />

the trend of eating on demand. “It’s<br />

about instantaneous food — and equip-<br />

SAM MISURACA [HISTORICAL GARLAND STOVE IMAGE], GRACE GROGAN [GIANT GARLAND STOVE IN MICHIGAN]<br />

32 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY OCTOBER <strong>2019</strong><br />

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM


SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE Garland/<br />

Welbit boasts a collection of 11 brands,<br />

which offer products for all aspects of<br />

a restaurant’s kitchen<br />

ment that lets you cook and transport<br />

it fast without conceding quality,” says<br />

McMullen.<br />

But the most robust part of Garland’s<br />

current business is accelerated cooking<br />

that employs multiple technologies, such<br />

as its Merrychef oven, which uses convection,<br />

microwave and air impingement.<br />

Beverages are also on the climb, including<br />

frozen drinks and specialty coffees.<br />

Welbilt’s Multiplex brand offers a range of<br />

cooling and beverage-dispensing systems<br />

that feature technology aimed at reducing<br />

waste and labour while maximizing productivity<br />

and profits.<br />

The call to hold food that stays yummy<br />

has inspired another burst of innovation.<br />

Clever Merco warming cabinets keep<br />

food hot, fresh and ready to serve and<br />

free up the broiler for lunchtime demand<br />

by maintaining the quality of nosh prepared<br />

earlier in the day. Such technology<br />

is meaningful to kitchen logistics, too, for<br />

the proximity of the cabinetry to its cooking<br />

cohorts.<br />

“When you make the chicken Caesar<br />

salad, the chicken’s right there,” says<br />

McMullen. “So often people cross paths<br />

and bump into each other. We try to eliminate<br />

those spaghetti drawings by looking<br />

at everything, even the logistics of human<br />

movement in the kitchen.”<br />

McMullen counts an industry trend<br />

toward consolidation — not only within<br />

manufacturers, but customers and dealers,<br />

too — as its most significant business<br />

challenge. Multiple business practices<br />

mean it’s hard to stay current on players<br />

and acquisitions. An abundance of competition,<br />

says McMullen, keeps everyone on<br />

their toes. And it’s a challenge to get restaurateurs<br />

to think about the future, and<br />

to buy for not just today, but tomorrow.<br />

“Making sure they understand how technology<br />

can benefit them and save them<br />

money is what we do. It’s our mission to<br />

help people understand why they should<br />

take that leap.”<br />

Garland/Welbilt is just shy of a US$2-<br />

billion company, globally, with 17 manufacturing<br />

facilities — two in Ontario,<br />

where Garland, Lincoln and Cleveland<br />

products are manufactured. The Floridabased<br />

organization employs approximately<br />

5,400 worldwide, 500 in Canada. Most of<br />

its sales — 73 per cent — are in North and<br />

South America. But, while the U.S. is 10<br />

times the market, it isn’t 10 times the sales.<br />

“We have stronger market share in Canada<br />

than in the U.S.,” says McMullen.<br />

COMING IN<br />

NOVEMBER<br />

SUSTAINABLE<br />

FISH AND<br />

SEAFOOD<br />

• THE HOSPITALITY MARKET REPORT<br />

• WAREWASHING & RECYCLING<br />

• SPIRITS<br />

• 3D TECHNOLOGY<br />

Up next? Smart kitchens, whose equipment<br />

is connected via Wi-Fi and is sophisticated<br />

enough to monitor temperatures<br />

and maintenance, conduct productioncapacity<br />

overviews and send notifications<br />

of potential operational issues to the service<br />

company. These innovative options have<br />

been around for a while, says McMullen,<br />

but labour shortages and the need for<br />

self-diagnostics have inspired operators to<br />

embrace them more than ever.<br />

For McDonald’s Canada, Garland/<br />

Welbilt’s a “strong, customer-focused<br />

organization,” says Earle, that furnishes a<br />

competitive edge along with quality,<br />

innovative products and impeccable<br />

support that extends to menu development,<br />

operations procedures and quality<br />

improvements. Garland/Welbilt, says<br />

Earle, is a powerful third leg in the threelegged<br />

stool concept Ray Kroc introduced<br />

to describe a well-running company.<br />

“They’ve been strong, leading partners for<br />

our system, our operators and our restaurants,”<br />

raves Earle. FH<br />

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM<br />

Coming Next Month_QV.indd 1<br />

<strong>2019</strong>-09-17 2:29 PM<br />

OCTOBER <strong>2019</strong> FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY 33


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EQUIPMENT OVERVIEW<br />

BEYOND THE STATUS QUO<br />

iSTOCK.COM/DIGTIALSTORM<br />

Consumer trends<br />

are driving equipment<br />

choices across<br />

all segments<br />

By Denise Deveau<br />

Foodservice operators are dealing with a convoluted web of trends — from<br />

technology advancements and labour shortages, to open kitchen designs and<br />

skyrocketing real-estate prices — that are having a marked impact on their<br />

kitchen design and equipment choices. While the basic drivers are consistent<br />

throughout the industry (the need for speed, efficiency and cost savings), each<br />

sector has its own spin on the dilemma.<br />

With real estate at a premium, the push is on to reduce kitchen sizes and<br />

make them more efficient. For larger formats, it can lead to major equipment<br />

changes. QSR operations, on the other hand, have long been proficient at<br />

working within the confines of a small footprint.<br />

“QSRs have always done well fitting in small spaces and are getting even<br />

smaller. Then there’s the growing popularity of ghost kitchens for food delivery,”<br />

says Josh Wolfe, corporate chef and director of Sales with Food Service<br />

Solutions Inc. in Mississauga, Ont. “Ghost kitchens have become a primary<br />

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM<br />

OCTOBER <strong>2019</strong> FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY 35


method to take space in an industrial area that<br />

doesn’t have to be retail driven. As a result,<br />

restaurants can take more of a QSR approach<br />

because you don’t have the burden of frontof-house<br />

costs.”<br />

And, as delivery, takeout and online ordering<br />

gain popularity, Nanci Giovinazzo, principal<br />

at Food Forward Consulting in Toronto,<br />

says her clients are reconsidering how they<br />

plan out their kitchens.<br />

“I’ve got some clients with 30 per cent of<br />

their revenue coming in from takeout,” she<br />

says. “So, [many of them] are adding commissary<br />

areas that are not downtown based and<br />

are a less expensive to build. These commissaries<br />

are able to service the smaller location,<br />

their main kitchen, which then becomes the<br />

finishing kitchen.”<br />

MORE BANG FOR YOUR BUCK<br />

With the higher cost per square foot, casual<br />

and fine dining are motivated to shrink kitchens<br />

in order to add more revenue-generating<br />

seats, Wolfe says. “But you can’t just reduce<br />

the footprint of the kitchen and generate the<br />

same volume of output doing things the same<br />

way as yesterday. It simply doesn’t work.”<br />

Reducing kitchen size and labour requirements<br />

in back of the house allows operators<br />

to get out front where the revenue streams<br />

are, explains Doug Feltmate, foodservice<br />

and hospitality consultant with Planned<br />

Foodservice Solutions Inc. in Ottawa. “If<br />

you’re paying $35/sq. ft. gross rent for your<br />

space, 15 sq. ft. will cost $525 a year in the<br />

back of house. The same 15 sq. ft. could generate<br />

$1,000 to $15,000 annually in the front<br />

of house.”<br />

The question remains, how do you take a<br />

2,400-sq.-ft. space and achieve the same productivity<br />

and revenue in 1,800-sq.-ft. of space<br />

with fewer staff, he adds. “The equipment<br />

used in your operation with be that determining<br />

factor.”<br />

Equipment basics that can play a key role<br />

in reducing space and labour requirements<br />

are a combi-oven, a blast chiller/freezer and<br />

a vacuum-pack machine, Feltmate says. “The<br />

proper combi can replicate several different<br />

cooking environments and eliminate the need<br />

for several other pieces without sacrificing<br />

food and service quality and times.”<br />

Technology also comes into play on a number<br />

of fronts, Wolfe notes. “Many efficiencies<br />

are technology driven. For example,<br />

self-cleaning appliances, cloud-based connectivity<br />

for remote programming and<br />

maintenance, capacitive touch interfaces and<br />

tablets allow operators to be more effective in<br />

controlling operations. With cloud connectivity<br />

for example, you can videoconference,<br />

conduct training across the country, program<br />

equipment, manage diagnostics and even do<br />

maintenance remotely.”<br />

Self-ordering/self-paying kiosks in QSRs<br />

are proving valuable tools for optimizing<br />

space and reducing the number of cashiers.<br />

“McDonald’s has led the charge in selfordering<br />

and payment kiosks,” Feltmate says.<br />

“Three kiosks will replace two cashiers and<br />

eliminate lineups. A $15,000 to $20,000 initial<br />

investment could save $60,000 to $75,000<br />

annually in labour.”<br />

Switching to a cashless system for any<br />

operation also saves considerable labour at<br />

the end of the shift, allowing for instant server<br />

and management reconciliations<br />

with the POS system without<br />

having to count, balance and do<br />

cash deposits.<br />

The QSR sector is also leaning<br />

a bit more on speed-cooking<br />

technology, Wolfe notes. “They’re<br />

not having to predict how many<br />

[items] they’re going to sell.<br />

Rather, they can heat and crisp<br />

items when they need to without<br />

pre-heating.”<br />

“Even in food-court kiosks,<br />

they may not be cooking but finishing<br />

it in front of customers in a<br />

rapid-cook oven. It adds a level of<br />

quality to the process. To that end,<br />

we’re seeing more attractive rapid-cook<br />

ovens coming into play,<br />

with curved corners and matte<br />

colours, not institutional hunks<br />

of stainless steel,” says Andrew Waddington,<br />

senior consultant with fsSTRATEGY Inc.<br />

in Toronto.<br />

With the growing trend to expanding<br />

menus, multi-purpose equipment is gaining<br />

ground at all levels and driving the need for<br />

multi-purpose systems even more, he adds.<br />

“Even Tim Hortons is doing fries and burgers<br />

now. When menus expand, footprints can’t<br />

match it, so equipment has to do more with<br />

the same space.”<br />

FROM THE<br />

SUPPLY<br />

SIDE<br />

More operations are adding eco-friendly<br />

functions to the equipment mix, Waddington<br />

says. “Most major refrigeration companies are<br />

using more environmentally friendly coolants,<br />

for example. More operators are choosing<br />

high-efficiency hoods and demand-control<br />

exhaust systems. We’re seeing a lot more<br />

focus on ventless technology, rapid-cook<br />

ovens and warewashers that recapture heat<br />

and require less chemicals.”<br />

EQUIPMENT SHOWCASE<br />

Fine dining stands apart in situations where<br />

equipment is often more about branding and<br />

innovation. “Because fine dining pushes innovation<br />

in food, it’s also pushing equipment<br />

innovation,” Wolfe says.<br />

Open-display cooking is becoming an<br />

increasingly popular option. “People always<br />

want to see the kitchen; they want to see the<br />

action,” says Ori Grad, broker at CHI Real<br />

Estate Group in Toronto, which helps restaurateurs<br />

find their ideal space.<br />

“But this means operators need<br />

to have better and cleaner-looking<br />

equipment.”<br />

In fact, for many fine-dining<br />

CAMERA-READY LOGOTYPE – UL MARK FOR CANADA AND THE U<br />

The QuiQsilver operations, the push is on to<br />

Roll-O-Matic create showcase kitchens that<br />

silverwarerolling<br />

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include higher-end equipment<br />

wraps all kinds<br />

ishes and formats to reflect the<br />

of flatware in napkins<br />

at a rate of 500 sets branding and decor, Wolfe notes.<br />

per hour. The Roll-O- “Once you lose the walls, you<br />

Matic also rolls and can do a lot with the space. Now<br />

and chopsticks. Not you can take predetermined setups<br />

and configure lines however<br />

only does this piece<br />

of equipment reduce<br />

labour, but it you want into a smaller space,<br />

sanitizes each set with [modular] elements like<br />

with a built-in ultraviolet<br />

light as it rolls. spaces or griddles.”<br />

burners, French tops, warming<br />

“When you become a morespecialized<br />

restaurant, the equipment<br />

reflects that,” Waddington says.<br />

Whatever the equipment and technology<br />

choices, operators will need to move outside<br />

their traditional comfort zones, Feltmate says.<br />

“They’re going to have to explore different<br />

ways to do things and dump the traditional<br />

thought process of, ‘well that’s the way we’ve<br />

always done it.’ Good operational planning<br />

and facilities design are needed more than<br />

ever. The solutions are out there...they just<br />

have to be put in place.” FH<br />

36 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY OCTOBER <strong>2019</strong> FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM


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EQUIPMENT TREND REPORT<br />

THE SUM OF ITS PARTS<br />

When the going gets tough, equipment investments get smarter<br />

By Denise Deveau | Illustration by Margaret Moore<br />

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM<br />

OCTOBER <strong>2019</strong> FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY 39


Ask an operator what<br />

drives their equipment<br />

choices and the answers<br />

come as no surprise.<br />

Shrinking margins,<br />

labour shortages and rising costs have<br />

long been underlying concerns for<br />

industry players. To that end, they’re<br />

seeking out equipment that’s easier,<br />

more foolproof and more efficient<br />

than ever.<br />

There are other influencers at<br />

work as well. Plant-based menu items,<br />

the demand for sustainable practices<br />

and the artisanal-cooking movement<br />

play a part in equipment choices.<br />

Then there’s the issue of space.<br />

Many restaurant owners are optimizing<br />

smaller-footprint kitchens<br />

through a number of investments,<br />

from multi-purpose hot and cold<br />

appliances, to prep equipment<br />

that can lighten the storage and<br />

labour burden.<br />

THE PRIORITIES<br />

“Profitability is always the number-1<br />

priority for equipment decisions,”<br />

says Tim Cuff, executive chef at<br />

The Fifteen Group in Vancouver.<br />

“Operators want to make sure investment<br />

delivers a return. At the same<br />

time, the focus is on minimizing the<br />

kitchen as much as possible to free up<br />

square footage for customers.”<br />

Smart choices include self-venting<br />

combi ovens, he says. “RATIONAL<br />

[ovens are] useful tools and can save<br />

tens of thousands of dollars in ventilation.<br />

It also allows you to put an<br />

oven in areas you wouldn’t normally<br />

be able to.”<br />

Combis are more popular than<br />

ever, reports Joel Sisson, president<br />

and founder of Crush Strategy Inc. in<br />

Burlington. “When skilled labour is<br />

difficult to find, everything is focused<br />

on how to deliver consistently good<br />

quality food without as much work<br />

in the kitchen. Combi ovens allow<br />

for a lot of different kinds of cooking<br />

and holding. The best part is, you just<br />

have to set the time and you’re done.”<br />

Longevity also matters and restaurateurs<br />

are spending more on better,<br />

more robust pieces, Sisson adds. “We<br />

had one client exchange their existing<br />

ice machine for a Hoshizaki system<br />

for their bar area that offered better<br />

capacity and recovery.”<br />

Self-cleaning features are also a<br />

strong selling point, Sisson notes.<br />

“People aren’t cleaning as much<br />

or not as willing to do it. You need<br />

equipment to do as much as it can.”<br />

THE INCREDIBLE<br />

SHRINKING KITCHEN<br />

It’s not always about the big stuff.<br />

“Restaurants are looking for ways to<br />

create a lot of food in smaller footprints,<br />

because kitchens are much<br />

smaller than they used to be,” says<br />

Plant-based<br />

menu items,<br />

the demand<br />

for sustainable<br />

practices and<br />

the artisanalcooking<br />

movement play<br />

a part in<br />

equipment<br />

choices<br />

iSTOCK.COM/MORRISON1977 [IDEA BULB SKETCH]<br />

40 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY OCTOBER <strong>2019</strong> FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM


JAM PACKED The vacuum<br />

packer from Italian manufacturer<br />

Orved is perfect for small<br />

restaurants that work with<br />

single servings<br />

you save on labour, production<br />

and storage.”<br />

Vacuum-packaging systems are also<br />

an essential efficiency tool, Heaton<br />

notes. “By shrinking foods in vacuum<br />

packs, we can lay them on top of each<br />

other in a smaller freezer unit than we<br />

would normally use.”<br />

Heaton says there’s also an evergrowing<br />

range of compact appliances<br />

that help clear floor space. “I’ve seen<br />

some incredible dishwashing and<br />

sanitizing machines that have been<br />

shrunk down to fit smaller spaces.<br />

Ventless combi ovens are another<br />

way to save space. We use them<br />

everywhere. [in the kitchen]”<br />

Induction cooktops are not only<br />

cleaner and more efficient, they don’t<br />

take up nearly as much room as a sixburner<br />

gas range and keep the kitchen<br />

cooler, he adds. “The great thing is<br />

they can be sunk into the counter or<br />

moved when you want to. We also use<br />

a lot of under-the-counter refrigeration<br />

and freezer units so they don’t<br />

take up workspace.”<br />

“It’s all about more seats and<br />

“I’ve seen<br />

some<br />

incredible<br />

dishwashing<br />

and<br />

sanitizing<br />

machines<br />

that have<br />

been<br />

shrunk<br />

down to<br />

fit smaller<br />

spaces”<br />

— Ben Heaton,<br />

corporate<br />

executive chef,<br />

ICONINK<br />

Ben Heaton, corporate executive chef<br />

at ICONINK in Toronto.<br />

Rather than massive ovens and<br />

refrigeration systems, a smallerformat<br />

kitchen may be well stocked<br />

with blenders, sous-vide equipment,<br />

vacuum-sealing systems and shrunkdown<br />

appliances.<br />

One effective approach is to produce<br />

as much as you can in batches<br />

beforehand, Heaton explains. “In the<br />

old days you might have had five or<br />

six ranges. Now, with pre-cooked<br />

techniques, you might only have one.<br />

There’s also less guesswork in cooking<br />

when you can get food ready ahead<br />

of time. It helps simplify the size of<br />

the space and the number of people<br />

you need.”<br />

High-powered blenders and food<br />

processors are counted among his<br />

kitchen mainstays. “Rather than using<br />

large ice-cream-churning machines<br />

for gelato, we use smaller Pacojet<br />

blenders and freeze portions that can<br />

be blended to order. Thermomix is<br />

heavily used for sauce work because<br />

it blends and heats up. You can throw<br />

dry or wet food in and bring it to the<br />

temperature you want. It’s a lot more<br />

expensive than a bowl and whisk, but<br />

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM<br />

OCTOBER <strong>2019</strong> FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY 41


High-speed combination ovens<br />

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making kitchens as efficient as possible,”<br />

says Andy Slinn, executive<br />

chef, Joseph Richard Group (JRG) in<br />

Surrey, B.C.<br />

RATIONAL combi ovens play a<br />

big role in JRG’s operations, he says.<br />

“They’re great time and space savers<br />

because they can do so many things<br />

at once and you can program them<br />

using a memory stick. We can use<br />

the steaming feature for our Asianconcept<br />

restaurants, for example, and<br />

eliminate the need for rice cookers.”<br />

For prep work, JRG uses Vitamix<br />

blenders and Robot Coupe mixers.<br />

“They’re super easy and don’t<br />

break down.”<br />

Rather than separate walk-in<br />

coolers and fridges, he prefers spacesaving<br />

combination refrigerator/freezers.<br />

“We use True a lot because of the<br />

service and warranties.”<br />

And, rather than grills, Slinn has<br />

transitioned to flat-top griddles from<br />

Southbend. “They’re fantastic. You<br />

can have a three-foot-long system<br />

running three different temperatures<br />

at the same time. I can cook eggs on<br />

one at 200° and hamburgers on the<br />

other at 400° — you can’t do that<br />

with a grill.”<br />

THE PACKAGING<br />

REVOLUTION<br />

With worldwide concern over waste<br />

and single-use plastics, sustainable<br />

packaging is becoming an increasingly<br />

important focus.<br />

“Sustainable packaging is huge<br />

with the millennial market especially,”<br />

Cuff says. “More people are looking<br />

at that.”<br />

Sisson says the focus on sustainable<br />

packaging is becoming a major issue<br />

for restaurants and consumers alike.<br />

“There’s a big push on making guests<br />

feel their operations are environmentally<br />

friendly. There’s a number of<br />

movements to eco-friendly packaging.<br />

Yes, it comes at a premium but, for<br />

many, it’s an investment they need<br />

to make.”<br />

Canadian restaurateurs are at an<br />

advantage since the population is<br />

on board, says Mark Marinozzi,<br />

vice-president of Marketing for<br />

World Centric in Rohnert Park,<br />

Calif., a producer of compostable<br />

tableware products.<br />

“Canadians have a strong interest<br />

in supporting and doing the<br />

right thing from an environmental<br />

>>> story continues on pg. 46<br />

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM


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KASON: RELIABLE PRECISION,<br />

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Insights on a trusted supplier from Mike McGuire,<br />

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Durability is an important consideration<br />

when purchasing any type of foodservice<br />

equipment. All too often, purchasers<br />

focus on the “big picture” and overlook<br />

seemingly unimportant details, such as<br />

the durability and life-expectancy of<br />

hardware and accessories. Like links in a<br />

chain, each part of a kitchen’s equipment<br />

needs to be strong so it can run smoothly.<br />

Mike McGuire, managing partner at Zink<br />

Foodservice in Columbus, Ohio, says<br />

some buyers focus strictly on the cost of<br />

equipment without pausing to “evaluate<br />

how long the parts will last.” He points<br />

to the example of a restaurant that’s<br />

currently under construction. “It’s probably<br />

going to be here for 25 years,” he says.<br />

“The equipment that’s going in there needs<br />

to last most of that time.”<br />

Often, improving equipment durability<br />

comes right down to the hardware. While<br />

many operations professionals examine<br />

every aspect of how a piece of equipment<br />

will work in their restaurant, “the hardware<br />

around the equipment is something they<br />

spend very little time with,” he says,<br />

adding they often forget “the incredible<br />

pounding the equipment takes in a typical<br />

foodservice operation.”<br />

Strength and functionality aside, the<br />

styling and design of the hardware<br />

becomes even more important in an<br />

open kitchen setting, says McGuire.<br />

“People are intrigued by the kitchen. In<br />

open layouts, customers can see how the<br />

kitchen operates and using well-designed,<br />

heavy-duty hardware adds to the overall<br />

aesthetic of the space.”<br />

Creating Long-lasting,<br />

Dependable Hardware<br />

McGuire’s experience in the industry<br />

has taught him to value high-quality,<br />

long-lasting parts: that’s why he trusts<br />

Kason. It’s products are thoughtfully<br />

designed and manufactured with care<br />

and precision in the U.S.A. “Kason has<br />

been a supplier across the entire industry<br />

and is well known for its durability<br />

and reliability,” he says.<br />

This commitment to quality extends to<br />

the OEM products Kason manufactures,<br />

says McGuire. “It works closely with<br />

its customers to develop products that<br />

will help suppliers move to a new level,<br />

to incorporate a new component that<br />

manufacturers are looking for.” Kason<br />

craftsmanship can improve those products,<br />

he says. For example, “Kason developed<br />

some specifi c handles and hinges for<br />

a walk-in cooler that has made a big<br />

difference in how the doors close… how<br />

they’re adjustable,” McGuire says.<br />

“It’s unique, and we use it as a big selling<br />

advantage for our walk-in coolers.”<br />

Of course, a good product is nothing<br />

without good service to back it up, and<br />

McGuire says Kason excels at service.<br />

Its regional warehouses “make it very<br />

handy to get product when customers need<br />

it. Almost nobody I know in this industry<br />

has the distribution network that it has.”<br />

The fact that Kason is a family-owned<br />

business is yet another reason McGuire<br />

trusts it. “They treat us like family and value<br />

us as a partner,” he says. It’s a partnership<br />

that only improves with time, McGuire says,<br />

noting “we rely on them because of the<br />

incredible history that they’ve had and what<br />

they’ve accomplished.”<br />

Craftsmanship is an integral part<br />

of Kason’s manufacturing process.<br />

A Kason 1248 Hinge just after<br />

robotic polishing.<br />

Kason’s family-oriented culture<br />

makes a positive difference in their<br />

product’s quality.<br />

BetterWithKason.com


story continued from pg. 42<br />

THE LAST STRAW Paper straws<br />

from World Centric<br />

and social standpoint. In addition,<br />

restaurants have access to a more<br />

widespread composting infrastructure<br />

than in the U.S.”<br />

A WORLD VIEW<br />

For anyone wanting to keep tabs on<br />

future equipment trends, it helps to<br />

look outside of North America, says<br />

Josh Wolfe, corporate chef with Food<br />

Service Solutions Inc. in Mississauga,<br />

Ont. “Europe has always been at the<br />

forefront of blast chilling and combioven<br />

technology, for example.”<br />

One innovation of note from<br />

Italy is vacuum-packing technology.<br />

“Orved has a marvellous take<br />

on food-processing tools based on<br />

vacuum technology. They’ve figured<br />

out how to use very specific programming<br />

to modify the atmosphere in<br />

the chamber to do way more than<br />

just preserve products,” says Wolfe.<br />

Systems can be used to clean mussels<br />

and clams, marinate and infuse<br />

oils and liquids<br />

within minutes or<br />

hours rather than<br />

days or weeks.<br />

“When combined<br />

with blast chilling<br />

and combi ovens,<br />

it can potentially<br />

touch huge pieces<br />

of an entire operation,”<br />

Wolfe says.<br />

Switzerland’s<br />

Brunner-Anliker is revolutionizing<br />

prep functions with a unique<br />

high-volume fruit-and-vegetable-cutting<br />

machine. “It excels in combining<br />

throughput and speed along with<br />

precision,” Wolfe says. The system can<br />

dice to the precision of a Japanese<br />

knife and improve yield — particularly<br />

for soft products such as strawberries,<br />

tomatoes and bananas.<br />

“It can do this in huge volumes,<br />

which is key for operators,” Wolfe<br />

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years based on labour savings.<br />

Heaton found his favourite kitchen<br />

tool — a stand-up sheeter — when<br />

visiting the Middle East. He uses the<br />

countertop unit for making pita and<br />

flatbread. “You just drop in the dough<br />

and you’re ready to go. I love that piece<br />

of equipment.”<br />

A SCHOLARLY APPROACH<br />

A culinary school is another focal point<br />

for exploring the equipment needs of<br />

today and the future. That’s because<br />

its job is to prepare students for the<br />

industry and where they’ll be working,<br />

says Alison Iannarelli, executive<br />

chef at Centennial College’s School of<br />

Hospitality, Tourism and Culinary Arts<br />

in Toronto. “We show them, realistically,<br />

what they may encounter in their<br />

careers, from large equipment to small.”<br />

When it comes to the hot side of<br />

things, students are introduced to conventional<br />

gas ovens, burners and stoves,<br />

as well as induction cooktops, grills and<br />

barbecues. “We also have RATIONAL<br />

and Garland combi ovens in multiple<br />

sizes for our event centre, labs and restaurant.<br />

We have beautiful deck ovens<br />

and a conveyor rotating oven as well.”<br />

A new addition is a custom-built outdoor<br />

wood-burning oven. “It’s a good<br />

opportunity for us to show students<br />

different ways of cooking without gas,”<br />

Iannarelli explains. “We may also<br />

incorporate a fire pit as more restaurants<br />

are going back to artisanal and<br />

rustic [method].”<br />

Other recent acquisitions include an<br />

industrial-grade spiral mixer and a grain<br />

mill. “Along with the wood-burning<br />

oven, we’ve created a whole new learning<br />

opportunity for students,” she says.<br />

On the cold front, blast chillers are<br />

used in the large-quantity baking lab.<br />

“We have different ice-cream machines<br />

and new walk-in refrigeration systems.”<br />

In recognition of the ever-expanding<br />

plant-based movement, the college’s<br />

appliance inventory includes Pacojets<br />

and Vitamix blenders, spiralizers and a<br />

Ruby Juicer 2000. “Utilizing fruit and<br />

vegetables in different ways is becoming<br />

more popular,” Iannarelli adds.<br />

THE ART OF IT ALL<br />

Beyond the size, space and cost savings,<br />

a growing number of restaurants<br />

are going the artisanal route. “That’s a<br />

big thing,” Cuff says. “If it’s pizza, a lot<br />

are going back to wood. Tandoor ovens<br />

and rotisserie equipment are big as<br />

well. Charcuterie has been growing in<br />

popularity in the last 10 years. It’s really<br />

exploded, so we’re seeing a lot of interest<br />

in dry-aging and curing cabinets and<br />

other specialty equipment.”<br />

Another trend affecting choice is<br />

the move to open-kitchen and cheftable<br />

venues, he adds. “They provide<br />

that Instagrammable moment for restaurants.<br />

Equipment elements are being<br />

incorporated into the aesthetic of<br />

the restaurant in ways we’ve never<br />

seen before.” FH<br />

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EQUIPMENT TECHNOLOGY<br />

TABLETOP TECH<br />

Improving efficiency<br />

with tableside and<br />

tabletop tablets<br />

By Shelby O’Connor<br />

iSTOCK.COM/DJILEDESIGN<br />

Tablets are making the move from a<br />

source of portable entertainment to<br />

an invaluable tech tool for operators.<br />

“Tableside ordering is where<br />

tablets really shine,” says Scott<br />

Waldrum, vice-president of Marketing at<br />

B.C.-based Squirrel Systems, which specializes<br />

in restaurant point-of-sale systems. “Having<br />

your server come over and be able to order<br />

directly from the tablet at the table has a<br />

ton of benefits for guests, as well as the<br />

restaurant.”<br />

The goal of Squirrel Systems’ tablets is<br />

to help elevate guest experiences by making<br />

service more efficient. “When you have<br />

tableside ordering and then runners to bring<br />

the food out, you get more attentive service,”<br />

says Waldrum. “Servers aren’t running back<br />

and forth to put orders in and get food. [It]<br />

changes the operational model of the floor.<br />

Servers are with customers more often and<br />

can handle more tables.”<br />

Servers can also be armed with a wealth<br />

of information to help customers make dining<br />

choices. Tablets can be programmed to<br />

include the ingredients in each dish, wine<br />

pairings, calorie counts, specials and inventory<br />

counts for specific dishes so servers know<br />

exactly what’s available.<br />

Restaurant-management teams also use<br />

tablets to access real-time data and reports to<br />

organize day-to-day operations. “The older<br />

model would have managers in the back<br />

looking at reports, data and managing the<br />

restaurant,” says Waldrum. “If the managers<br />

have tablets, that’s all available to them while<br />

they’re on the floor. [They can look at] average<br />

check sizes, table turns — those are the<br />

metrics they measure for shifts.”<br />

Kitchen automation helps tablets connect<br />

the front and back of house. “When an order<br />

comes through from the server on the tablet<br />

or regular terminal, the automation system<br />

sends different parts of that order to different<br />

stations,” explains Waldrum. “The order<br />

is separated appropriately, depending on how<br />

long it takes to deliver those items, so it all<br />

comes out together.”<br />

For those who want technology to play a<br />

larger part in giving customers control, Presto<br />

offers several tablet solutions, including a<br />

tabletop system called PrestoPrime and Presto<br />

Wearables — a watch-like platform worn on<br />

staffs’ wrists. The wearables can immediately<br />

notify servers when an order is placed by the<br />

customer through the tabletop tablets and<br />

when the kitchen has finished making that<br />

table’s food, leading to quicker and more<br />

attentive service.<br />

The PrestoPrime tabletop device allows<br />

guests to place their own orders. Restaurants<br />

can customize their tablets and choose how<br />

much control their diners have over menu<br />

options. “Our customers can pick how much<br />

[information] is exposed to the customer —<br />

some want the entire menu and some want<br />

a partial menu,” says Rajat Suri, CEO and<br />

founder of Presto.<br />

If customers have dietary restrictions, Suri<br />

says “[the tablets] can be programmed with<br />

dietary information, nutritional information,<br />

calorie counts and can allow [guests] to filter<br />

[menu options] by different diets.”<br />

As guests wait for their orders to be<br />

brought out, they can engage in one of the<br />

many games offered by the tabletop platform.<br />

“We have multi-player trivia so people can<br />

play against real people, in real time, in the<br />

restaurant or across the country,” says Suri.<br />

“We [also] have kids’ games and digital<br />

board games.”<br />

Partnered with the newer Presto Wearables,<br />

the tabletop tablets also immediately notify<br />

managers when a guest is unhappy so they<br />

can quickly resolve issues and generate positive<br />

experiences.<br />

Suri believes guests are happier when they<br />

can control their own experience. “We capture<br />

around 20 times more guest feedback on our<br />

system than any other system out there,” he<br />

says. “The restaurants can use [the information<br />

from the surveys] to drive better performance.<br />

With immediate feedback, if a guest<br />

is unhappy, they can be talked to and rescued<br />

before they leave the restaurant.” FH<br />

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM<br />

OCTOBER <strong>2019</strong> FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY 49


*Reg. TM McCormick Canada | ®Reg. TM The French’s Food Company LLC. Used under licence.


POURING FOR PROFITS<br />

MIXING<br />

THINGS UP<br />

Sustainability is driving innovation<br />

in Canada’s cocktail category<br />

BY JESSICA HURAS<br />

iSTOCK.COM/MARIANVEJCIK<br />

Cocktail culture in<br />

Canada is on the<br />

rise, with Restaurants<br />

Canada reporting<br />

spirit servings at<br />

casual-dining restaurants<br />

increased from 16 per cent in<br />

2013 to 20 per cent in 2018.<br />

Spirits are in higher demand at<br />

fine-dining restaurants as well,<br />

with additional research showing<br />

spirits now account for 23 per<br />

cent of alcohol servings.<br />

“Cocktails, like the Old<br />

Fashioned, are commonplace<br />

and slide off the tongue for the<br />

average guest now,” says Amber<br />

Bruce, bar manager at the Keefer<br />

Bar in Vancouver. “A restaurant<br />

that used to only have a selection<br />

of imported beers and bigbox<br />

wine brands now needs to<br />

make at least classic cocktails. It’s<br />

become an expectation.”<br />

Health, sustainability and<br />

the locavore movement are driving<br />

forces in many areas of foodservice<br />

and the cocktail world is<br />

no exception. “There’s more focus<br />

on local products,” says Bruce. “A<br />

couple of years ago, we only had<br />

two or three different Canadian<br />

gins and vodkas, but now the<br />

craft-distillery movement is<br />

blowing up.”<br />

In addition to using more<br />

Canadian-made craft spirits,<br />

mixologists are incorporating<br />

local produce. Andrew Keyes,<br />

head bartender at Halifax’s Lot<br />

Six Bar & Restaurant, says his<br />

team sources herbs such as mint<br />

and basil — and unconventional<br />

ingredients such as parsnips —<br />

from local farmer’s markets to<br />

use in cocktails.<br />

Evelyn Chick, bar manager<br />

at Toronto’s PrettyUgly bar, says<br />

bartenders are increasingly<br />

approaching local ingredients<br />

with the mindset of a chef; thinking<br />

about the flavours of a cocktail<br />

the same way a chef might<br />

think about the flavours of a dish.<br />

“In Canada, we have an abundance<br />

of things like cedar, balsam<br />

fir and mushrooms,” says Chick.<br />

“And we can get [items] like<br />

rockweed or sea asparagus from<br />

the east coast — that’s a great<br />

thing that sets Canadian cocktails<br />

apart.”<br />

Bartenders are also becoming<br />

more mindful about waste and<br />

the sustainability of their ingredients.<br />

“It’s being creative with<br />

the use of everything,” says Chick.<br />

“It’s thinking about your ingredients<br />

and allowing for a second or<br />

third use instead of just tossing<br />

it away.”<br />

For example, leftover limes<br />

and lemons are used to make new<br />

ingredients, such as liqueurs and<br />

citrus stocks for other drinks. “I<br />

always like to talk about the life<br />

of a pineapple,” says Chick. “If we<br />

juice the pineapple for service,<br />

we’ll use that pineapple juice to<br />

make a syrup and we ferment the<br />

pineapple husk to make tepache<br />

(a fermented beverage made from<br />

the peel and rind of pineapples).”<br />

The wider availability of<br />

non-alcoholic distillates such as<br />

Seedlip, a popular alcohol-free<br />

spirit developed in the U.K.,<br />

is driving a continued trend<br />

towards low ABV cocktails and<br />

mocktails. “It allows people to go<br />

out and have a few drinks and<br />

not be intoxicated,” says Chick.<br />

“You can also experience more<br />

flavours that way.”<br />

Bruce adds the trend towards<br />

high-end mocktails is more<br />

inclusive for customers who want<br />

to have a drink with their friends<br />

but prefer not to consume<br />

alcohol. “It makes them feel<br />

more at home because they can<br />

blend into the social fabric and<br />

not be called out by their friends,”<br />

says Bruce. FH<br />

MADE<br />

WITH<br />

LOVE<br />

Founded in Montreal in 2009, Made with Love is one of Canada’s biggest mixology competitions. Every year, some of the<br />

country’s best bartenders compete locally, with the winners from each region then going head-to-head to compete for<br />

the national title. “The competitions are always extravagant,” says Florence Doyon-Simon, national event planner for<br />

Made with Love. “We ask bartenders to push their limits in terms of creativity.”<br />

FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM<br />

OCTOBER <strong>2019</strong> FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY 51


CHEF’S CORNER<br />

A CULINARY JOURNEY<br />

Chef Angus An opened his mind to Thai cuisine<br />

and his culinary inspiration changed<br />

STORY BY SHELBY O’CONNOR<br />

After being classically trained at the French Culinary Institute in New<br />

York, Angus An — owner of five popular restaurants in Vancouver —<br />

was skeptical about the opportunity to join chef David Thompson’s<br />

team at his Michelin-star Thai restaurant Nahm, in London.<br />

“I had a very closed-minded notion that Asian food was a more<br />

lacklustre, less formal and spectacular cuisine than French or European cuisine,”<br />

An says. “When I first had the opportunity to work with David, I didn’t know if<br />

I wanted to learn [to cook] Thai food because my experiences with [it] in North<br />

America [weren’t good.]”<br />

But all this changed when An first experienced Thompson’s food. “I realized<br />

how closed-minded and naïve I was, because the food was amazing — full of balance<br />

and layers of robust and sharp flavours.”<br />

Realizing joining Nahm would broaden his culinary horizons, An took advantage<br />

of the opportunity. Ultimately, An believes, his decision saved his career.<br />

When he returned to Canada in 2006, he opened his first restaurant,<br />

Gastropod, in Vancouver. The restaurant specialized in<br />

European food prepared with modern cooking techniques.<br />

“It was very well received when it opened, but<br />

within a couple of years — when the economy was bad<br />

in 2009 — we were forced to either close or rebrand.”<br />

The choice to rebrand was successful, as Maenam —<br />

An’s flagship restaurant — is “still going strong ” 10 years<br />

later. The dishes at Maenam are based on traditional<br />

Thai recipes, which incorporate local, sustainably harvested<br />

ingredients when possible, with a balance of hot,<br />

sour, sweet and salty flavours.<br />

“My [cooking] philosophy is keeping things simple<br />

and doing it well and with integrity,” says the 38-yearold<br />

native of Taiwan. “When I was younger, I was more<br />

interested in techie, modern food, but now understand<br />

food just has to taste good.”<br />

An has opened several other restaurants including<br />

Longtail Kitchen, Fat Mao Noodles, Freebird Chicken<br />

Shack, Sen Pad Thai and, his latest venture, Popina<br />

Canteen — a collaboration with three other local chefs<br />

that opened in summer 2018.<br />

Located on Granville Island<br />

BITS & BITES<br />

FAVOURITE FOOD<br />

MEMORY<br />

Picking lemons in<br />

his grandmother’s<br />

backyard<br />

in California<br />

FAVOURITE<br />

INGREDIENTS<br />

Olive oil, lemons<br />

and anchovies<br />

FAVOURITE<br />

CULINARY<br />

DESTINATION<br />

Thailand, Japan<br />

or Europe<br />

ALTERNATE<br />

CAREER<br />

Architect<br />

and built out of shipping containers,<br />

Popina Canteen is An’s<br />

only project not focused on<br />

southeast-Asian cuisine.<br />

Popina’s menu offerings<br />

include a grass-fed, B.C.-beef<br />

cheeseburger ($12), an organic<br />

white quinoa and kale salad<br />

topped with a Japanese-curry<br />

dressing ($10) and a seafood<br />

tray featuring half a Dungeness<br />

crab or half a lobster, nahmjim-marinated<br />

swimming scallops,<br />

peel-and-eat side-stripe<br />

shrimp, albacore tuna crudo<br />

and mussles escabeche ($45).<br />

“Having a restaurant right<br />

on the water, in shipping containers,<br />

[with] a bit of a patio<br />

[is] quite an amazing concept,”<br />

says An. “We’re very proud and<br />

happy with the result.” FH<br />

52 FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY OCTOBER <strong>2019</strong> FOODSERVICEANDHOSPITALITY.COM


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