British Travel Journal | Winter 2019

BRITISH TRAVEL 

JOURNAL 

WINTER 2019 | ISSUE 04 

BritishTravelJournal.com 

CITY | COAST | COUNTRY 

stargazing 

DISCOVER NEW WORLDS WITH 

THE DARK SKIES FESTIVAL 

the great 

outdoors 

BRITAIN'S NATIONAL TRAILS 

OFFER SOME OF THE LOVELIEST 

COUNTRYSIDE IN THE WORLD 

new-age spas 

FROM SOPORIFIC SOOTHING IN 

SUBTERRANEAN LABYRINTHS TO ICE 

TREATMENTS BY THE OCEAN - 

A NEW ERA OF ZEN IS UPON US! 

£5.00 

idyllic destinations • michelin star restaurants • hotels & SPAS • experiences • adventures • travel news

WHICH IS THE MOST ICONIC 

HOTEL IN THE UK? 

#Siblingrivalry 

CHEWTON GLEN, HAMPSHIRE 

CLIVEDEN HOUSE, BERKSHIRE 

THE LYGON ARMS, COTSWOLDS 

11 CADOGAN GARDENS, LONDON 

ICONICLUXURYHOTELS.COM

THE NEW TR ADITI O N 

RESEIGH FOOKS BRAND AND PACKAGING DESIGN CLIENT: NOBLE ISLE STAGE 3 29th June 2011 

C O N T R I B U T I O N S 


JOURNAL 


WELCOME 

editors 

Editor-in-chief Jessica Way 

FEATURES EDITOR Samantha Rutherford 

CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Angela Harding 

expert contributors 

FOOD & DRINK Chantal Borciani 

ARTS & CULTURE Melanie Abrams 

HISTORY & HERITAGE Robin Glover 

SHOPPING & LIFESTYLE Emma Johnson 

SPECIAL EVENTS Emma O’Reilly 

UK OUTDOORS Adrian Mourby 

TRAVEL & ADVENTURE Max Wooldridge 

LONDON INSIDER Helen Holmes 

AUTHOR CONTRIBUTION Sarah Kerr 

FRONT COVER IMAGE 

Gilpin Lake House, Lake District 

editor's IMAGE 

Tower of London Ice Rink 

Published by 

CONTISTA MEDIA 

Mitchell House, Brook Avenue, Warsash, 

Southampton, SO31 9HP 

MAIN SWITCHBOARD 01489 660680 

contistamedia.co.uk 

KEEP IN TOUCH 

BritishTravelJournal 

BTravelJournal 

THIS ISSUE MARKS one year since 

the launch of British Travel Journal. 

One year - and what a great year 

it’s been! Though never (never, 

never) quite so soon, did we ever expect, to win 

an award, let alone one of this prestige. 

We are thrilled, over the moon, delighted, 

ecstatic, virtually speechless to be esteemed 

winners of ‘Best Consumer Holiday Magazine’ 

Silver accolade in this years’ British Travel 

Awards. The perfect end to a wonderful year - 

and it’s you, our readers, we have to thank. 

Without your votes we wouldn’t have won - we wouldn’t have 

experienced how great it felt to stand together on that stage, or assurance 

that our hard work, late nights and dedication might actually be starting to 

pay off - so thank you. Thank you all so, so much for voting for us! 

As we continue to evolve British Travel Journal into the award-winning 

UK travel magazine quarterly we aspire to be, we’ve our first-ever whimsical 

festive issue all wrapped up for you here - and what a joy it has been! 

We’re dreaming big this season, kicking off with a wondrous winter wishlist 

of ice-skating and hamper-making to dog-sledding, hoping you will do 

the same, p18. 

Tis the season for stargazing, so look up, p40, and in The Great 

Outdoors, p22, discover some of the loveliest countryside in the world. 

There’s fairytale celebrations happening at Leeds Castle, p56, creative 

wreath-making masterclasses at Ellenborough Park, p52, or a country retreat 

like no other at Thyme Manor, p58. 

We are shown how to travel the British coastline - one lighthouse at a time, 

p62, how to fine-dine as a vegan, p36, and where to invigorate the mind with 

our new-age luxury spa guide, p78. 

As always I hope this issue of British Travel Journal continues to enhance 

your upcoming travel plans – and that you have an uplifting and magical 

winter! u 

PROUD TO BE IN PARTNERSHIP WITH 

stage 3 - B&W detailed logo 

Jessica x 

Contista Media Ltd cannot accept responsibility for 

unsolicited submissions, manuscripts and photographs. 

While every care is taken prices and details are subject to 

change and Contista Media Ltd take no responsibility for 

omissions or errors. We reserve the right to publish 

and edit any letters. All rights reserved. 

Jessica Way, Editor-In-Chief 

Jessica@britishtraveljournal.com 

BritishTravelJournal.com 3


THE DARK SKIES FESTIVAL 

BRITAIN'S NATIONAL TRAILS 

OFFER SOME OF THE LOVELIEST 

COUNTRYSIDE IN THE WORLD 


£5.00 

SUBTERRANEAN LABYRINTHS TO ICE 

TREATMENTS BY THE OCEAN - 


EDINBURGH TO THE 

CALEDONIAN FOREST 


A NEW ERA OF ZEN IS UPON US! AUTUMN 2019 | ISSUE 03 

£5.00 


AUTUMN FORAGING 

HOLIDAYS 

CELEBRATES TWO BIG 

MILESTONES THIS YEAR 

idyllic destinations • michelin star restaurants • hotels & sPas • exPeriences • adventures • travel news 

EVENTS ■ IDYLLIC DESTINATIONS ■ MICHELIN STAR RESTAURANTS ■ LUXURY HOTELS ■ NEW EXPERIENCES 

18 

CONTENTS 


22 

40 

S U B S C R I B E 

48 SUBSCRIBE 

TODAY 

Receive the ultimate 

luxury getaway essential 

from Noble Isle worth £20 

and four issues of British 

Travel Journal for just £19! 

stargazing 

DISCOVER NEW WORLDS WITH 

the great 

outdoors 


JOURNAL 


new-age sPas JOURNAL 

FROM SOPORIFIC SOOTHING IN 

take a 

journey 

taste a 

destination 

Interview 

raymond blanc 

WIN 

a luxury 

short break 

for two in 

Exeter! 

JOTTINGS 

09 

11 

TRAVEL NEWS 

A look at what’s new and travel 

noteworthy in the British Isles 

CULTURAL AGENDA 

Dates for your diary of things you 

don’t want to miss out on this winter 

10 OF THE BEST FESTIVE 

18 EXPERIENCES 

From ice-skating in central London and dogsledding 

in the Scottish Highlands, to making 

the perfect canapés, mince pies and Christmas 

wreaths - We have Christmas all wrapped up 

35 HEALTH 

Keep your body and mind feeling well 

with our unmissable winter selection of musthaves 

promoting wellbeing and mindfulness 

FEATURES 

22 

THE GREAT OUTDOORS 

Discover National Trails through 

some of the loveliest countryside in the world 

INTERVIEW WITH PAUL O’NEILL, 

30 CLIVEDEN HOUSE 

A country estate that has stood the test of time 

like no other, uncover the secrets of Cliveden 

House and meet new executive head chef 

VEGAN DINING 

36 We’ve scoured the British Isles to 

find the best restaurants serving gourmet, 

plant-based food, in beautiful environments 

40 STARGAZING 

Many of us hunker down in winter 

evenings, forgetting about the world outside, but 

look out, look up - the Dark Skies Festival is here à 


E D I T O R 

L O V E S 

Secret Escapes gift cards, ranging 

from £50 to £5,000, make a perfect 

Christmas gift for globetrotters or 

weekend-breakers. For more gifts 

inspiration see our Style Edits, p85 

secretescapes.com 

LIFESTYLE 

44 

THE HOUSE KATE BUILT 

Fashion superstar Kate Moss has 

taken this luxury Cotswolds design-meetscountry-living 

concept to a whole new level 

MEET THE MAKER 

49 Meet master potter John Leach from 

the ancient village of Muchelney in Somerset 

ELLENBOROUGH PARK 

52 This 15th-century manor house is the 

perfect setting for those looking for an idyllic way 

to holiday and feel at home this Christmas 

LEEDS CASTLE 

56 Leeds Castle, a fairytale estate in Kent, 

brings its 900th birthday celebrations to a 

grand finale with some magical plans for the 

festive season 

THYME MANOR 

58Nestled amidst the green of the 

Cotswold landscape, in one of the area's 

beautiful villages, the Thyme Manor estate is 

a country retreat like no other 

78 

ITINERARIES 

62 

LIGHTHOUSE TRAIL 

Sarah Kerr, author of The British 

Lighthouse Trail, shows us how to travel the British 

coastline – one lighthouse at a time 

48 HOURS IN BATH 

68 A walk around the city of Bath is to 

follow in Jane Austen’s footsteps knowing that 

Roman centurions trod these streets many 

centuries before her 

THE ROYAL CRESCENT 

72 HOTEL AND SPA 

There are many hotels in the centre of Bath, but 

it could be claimed, none quite as grand and 

spectacular as The Royal Crescent 

FINDING WELLNESS AT 

74 SIMPLY HEALING 

A luxury detox retreat offering beautiful 

woodland walks, nature and fresh air alongside 

treatments, therapies and juice plans 

SPA GUIDE - NEW-AGE LUXURY 

78 Escape to the countryside, discover 

soporific soothing in subterranean labyrinths or 

invigorate the mind with fire and ice treatments 

by the ocean… a new era of Zen is upon us 

KING'S CROSS 

90 London’s hippest new area is buzzing 

with shops and restaurants – it’s the perfect 

urban base for a city break with attitude 

SHOPPING 

85 

STYLE EDITS 

Travel souvenirs and gifts lovingly 

made for the discerning traveller 

FOR YOUR JOURNEY 

98 Latest books, travel gadgets and our 

British travel inspired crossword 

62 

6 BritishTravelJournal.com

The Coach House at The Lammas, Gloucestershire 

Find your special place 

From quintessential cottages and country houses 

to quirky windmills and lighthouses. 

A portfolio of over 

550 luxury, self-catering 

holiday properties 

in the UK and Ireland. 

View the properties 

ruralretreats.co.uk 

Call for our 2020 brochure 

01386 897 959

Spring comes earlier on Tresco. As the year begins, dazzling blooms fill 

the Abbey Garden, the beaches and are quiet, there’s a sense of wellness 

in the clear sea air, and the sun sets just that little bit later... 

As the island awakens, discover time to be on Tresco this spring. 

Book now at 

TRESCO.CO.UK/ 

SPRING or call 

01720 422849 

SPA & WELLBEING | ACCOMMODATION | ABBEY GARDEN | GALLERY | DINING

TRAVEL NEWS 

W H A T ' S N E W 

Destinations | Renovations | Launches | Celebrations 

NATION’S FAVOURITE 

COUNTRY HOUSE GARDEN 

Yorkshire’s Newby Hall has been crowned 

2019 Historic Houses Garden of the Year! 

newbyhall.com / historichouses.org 

BRITISH 

TRAVEL 

JOURNAL 

L O V E S 

2 0 1 9 

BRAND-NEW 300-SEAT BOAT TO BE LAUNCHED INTO WINDERMERE LAKE 

This multi-million pound investment by Windermere Lake Cruises will help visitors experience 

‘The Lakes’ without having to rely on their cars to discover the full 10.5-miles, its surrounding 

countryside and attractions. The new vessel known as ‘Swift’ is the largest craft to be ‘launched’ 

onto Windermere for more than 80 years. There will be more stop-off points along the lake, and 

‘Swift’ has even been designed to easily access piers such as private jetties at hotels including 

Low Wood Bay Resort & Spa, which until now have been unable to accommodate large vessels. 

windermere-lakecruises.co.uk 

THE WORLD’S FIRST 

DISTILLERY AT SEA 

Award-winning gin distiller, Salcombe Gin, 

and P&O Cruises, are launching the first 

distillery at sea with exclusive gins reflecting the 

adventurous spirit of innovative new ship, Iona 

pocruises.com 

NEW L A U N C H 

AUCKLAND CASTLE 

The 900 year-old castle and former home of the 

Prince Bishops of Durham has re-opened this 

November as an exciting new visitor destination 

following a three year conservation project. 

aucklandproject.org 

THE YAN AT BROADRAYNE 

We love this cosy new 'bolthole' in The Lakes, a 

17th century former farm, with seven beautiful 

bedrooms, rustic bistro and lounge - perfect for a 

little winter getaway. Priced from £100 a night. 

theyan.co.uk 

DON'T BOTTLE IT 

CanO Water is a new 

recyclable 

alternative to plastic 

bottles in the form of 

an aluminium can. 

Priced £1 each. 

canowater.com 


LHM_British Travel Journal Winter issue_ FINAL.pdf 1 31/10/2019 17:00:58 

C 

M 

Y 

CM 

MY 

CY 

CMY 

Visit a Victorian ‘House Beautiful’, the home of 

illustrator Linley Sambourne and his family, featuring 

an eclectic display of decorative objects and the 

artist’s collection of drawings and photographs. 

K 

Open Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays 

11am Conventional and Costumed Guided tours 

2 - 5:30pm Public Open Access 

Evening and Private tours also available 

Under 18s go FREE! 

18 Stafford Terrace London W8 7BH | www.rbkc.gov.uk/museums 

18 STAFFORD TERRACE 

THE SAMBOURNE FAMILY HOME 

STEP BACK IN TIME TO 1899 

Come and buy the very finest 

art and antiques 

at this annual event of distinction 

THE MAYFAIR 

ANTIQUES & FINE ART FAIR 

THE LONDON MARRIOTT HOTEL 

GROSVENOR SQUARE, LONDON W1K 6JP 

9 - 12 JANUARY 2020 

Thursday 12.00 - 21.00 

Friday 11.00 - 18.00 

Saturday 11.00 - 18.00 

Sunday 11.00 - 17.00 

FOR AN INVITATION FOR THREE 

PLEASE EMAIL BTJ@ADFL.CO.UK 

+44(0)1797 252030 

www.mayfairfair.com 

THE 

ANTIQUES 

DEALERS 

FAIR 

LIMITED

CULTURAL AGENDA 

H O T T H I S S E A S O N 

Exhibitions | Museums | Galleries | Shows 

CHRISTMAS TWILIGHT 

EVENINGS 5–20 DECEMBER 

2019 AT CHATSWORTH 

ENJOY LIVE CHRISTMAS MUSIC 

WITH A STRING TRIO AFTER THE 

HOUSE CLOSES TO THE PUBLIC 

AS YOU EXPLORE THE HOUSE 

DRESSED FOR CHRISTMAS 

WARMED BY A DELICIOUS MINCE 

PIE AND A GLASS OF WINE. 

CHATSWORTH.ORG 

Words | Melanie Abrams 

à 


TYRANNOSAURUS 

24 JANUARY–04 MAY 2020 

EDINBURGH’S NATIONAL MUSEUMS 

SCOTLAND TURNS INTO A 

JURASSIC PARK IN JANUARY AS THE 

TYRANNOSAURUS FAMILY STRIDES 

IN. ALONGSIDE A 13 METRE LONG 

SKELETON OF A T-REX IS THE EVEN 

OLDER DASPLETOSAURUS WITH 

ITS SHARPLY CLAWED THREE-TOED 

FEET. SKULLS, TEETH, HIP BONES AND 

MORE BRING PREHISTORY ALIVE. 

NMS.AC.UK 

W E ' R E S E E I N G 

EXHIBITIONS & FAIRS 

Steve McQueen 

13 FEBRUARY–11 MAY 2020 

After movie success directing 12 Years 

A Slave and last year’s Widows, Steve 

McQueen returns to his art roots at 

Tate Modern from February with his 

first major exhibition for 20 years. 

(He won the 1999 Turner Prize). 

His equally visceral installations 

include a claustrophic deep dive 

down a South African gold mine. 

tate.org.uk 

Cornwall as Crucible: 

Modernity and Internationalism 

in Mid-Century Britain 

19 FEBRUARY–17 MAY 2020 

Discover new sides of St Ives as 

the Cornish harbour town is the 

inspiration behind a group show 

at Birmingham’s Barber Institute of 

Fine Arts. Some artists depict typical 

boats or buoys, whereas others have 

a more abstract take. 

barber.org.uk 


Kimono: Kiyoto to Catwalk 

29 FEBRUARY–21 JUNE 2020 

Kimonos have been having a cultural 

moment - ever since Kim Kardashian 

West chose the name for her new 

shapewear (renamed Skims, after 

a backlash). Now this Japanese 

garment, tied around the body 

with an obi (or sash), is the 

subject of a Victoria & Albert 

Museum exhibition. Historic 

pieces, film costumes, catwalk 

adaptations and more show 

the kimono’s significance 

since the 1660s. 

vam.ac.uk 

London Art Fair 

22-26 JANUARY 2020 

Discover the best galleries from seasoned and aspiring 

collectors around the world showcasing exceptional modern 

and contemporary art. londonartfair.co.uk 


W E ' R E D I S C O V E R I N G 

© MARC ATKINS / ART FUND 2019 

ART FUND MUSEUM OF 

THE YEAR 

St Fagans National Museum of History 

Step back to the Iron Age at the St Fagans 

National Museum of History, winner of this 

year’s Art Fund Museum of the Year. Set in 

the grounds of the Elizabethan St Fagans 

Castle, near Cardiff, discover original buildings 

relocated from across Wales including an 18th 

century tollhouse, a pigsty and reconstructed 

Iron Age homes. 

museum.wales/stfagans 

FESTIVALS & SHOWS 

Words Weekend 

06-08 DECEMBER 2019 

Gateshead’s Sage hosts this first spoken word 

weekend. Girl with a Pearl Earring’s Tracy 

Chevalier and chick lit queen, Marion Keyes are 

among the writers in conversation, whilst Ben 

Okri reads his poetic work. Artists, culinary 

experts, television stars also line up for talks, 

panel discussions and more. 

wordsweekend.com 

Edinburgh’s Hogmanay 

30 DECEMBER 2019-01 JANUARY 2020 

Edinburgh is the place to be at New Year’s 

Eve. Celebrations last three days, starting 

with a torchlit procession from the Royal Mile 

to Holyrood Park. Mark Ronson’s pulsating 

beats kick off 2020 in Princes Street Gardens. 

Whilst Scottish bands keep the party going in 

Parliament Square. 

edinburghshogmanay.com 

L O V E S 

2 0 1 9 

Mayfair Antiques and Fine Art Fair 

09-12 JANUARY 2020 

Rummage through a treasure trove 

at this year’s Mayfair Antiques and 

Art Fair at the London Marriott Hotel 

in Grosvenor Square. Among the 

plethora of paintings, hunt for an 

iconic piece of art deco furniture, say, 

or a stylish piece of art nouveau glass. 

mayfairfair.com 

Verve Poetry Festival 

20-23 FEBRUARY 2020 

The two year old poetry festival has 

grown up, moving to the Birmingham 

Hippodrome. The packed schedule 

includes poetry readings and 

performances. Whilst for budding 

talent, grab an open mic slot or a 

workshop place where poets advise on 

how to get published and more. 

vervepoetryfestival.com 


LEICESTER COMEDY 

FESTIVAL 


The Leicester Comedy Festival 

is a juggernaut. Jo Brand, Griff 

Rhys Jones and even The Chase’s 

Paul Sinha are among the 1600 

plus comedians taking to over 

90 stages across Leicester and 

Leicestershire. Watch out for 

emerging stand-up talent like 

Kwame Asante, nominated for 

BBC comedy and other awards. 

comedy-festival.co.uk 

W E ' R E L I S T E N I N G T O 

NEW ALBUM 

Blue Eyed Soul by Simply Red 

and Cats 

We’re holding back the years to the 1980s, 

toe tapping to Simply Red’s catchy new 

album, Blue Eyed Soul - as we did for the 

band’s debut album, Picture Book. 

Whilst Cats the movie, released 20 

December, is evoking another musical 

memory as we replay the original soundtrack. 

Or download new song, Beautiful Ghosts, 

with words written by Taylor Swift. 

simplyred.com 

© DEAN CHALKLEY 

W E ' R E R E A D I N G 

Londonist Drinks: A Spirited Guide 

to London Libation 

This is a go-to guide to London’s drinking scene and the city’s 

rich drinking history – both alcoholic and non-alcoholic. 

We love that there’s pub crawls soaked in history, the best 

alcohol-free restaurants 

serving delicious teas and 

soft drinks, where to seek 

out London’s best mocktail 

menu, to the best late-night 

venues that don’t revolve 

around drinking in pubs 

and bars. Priced £16.99 

from AA Publishing 


W E ' R E W A T C H I N G 

W E ' R E B O O K I N G 

MOVIE RELEASE 

LITTLE WOMEN 

26 DECEMBER 2019 

DIRECTED BY GRETA GERWIG, 

WHO BAGGED AN OSCAR 

NOMINATION FOR HER DEBUT 

MOVIE, LADY BIRD, THIS 

LATEST MOVIE ADAPTATION 

OF CLASSIC NOVEL, LITTLE 

WOMEN IS TIPPED FOR 

ANOTHER NOMINATION TOO. 

AWARD-WINNING AND RISING 

STARS PLAY THE AMBITIOUS 

MARCH SISTERS – SAOIRSE 

RONAN (JO), EMMA WATSON 

(MEG), FLORENCE PUGH 

(AMY) AND AUSTRALIA’S 

ELIZA SCANLEN (BETH). 

WHILST OSCAR MAGNET, 

MERYL STREEP PLAYS THEIR 

FEARSOME AUNT. 

FACEBOOK.COM/ 

LITTLEWOMENOFFICIAL 

THEATRE 

English National Ballet 70th 

Anniversary Gala 

17–18 JANUARY 2020 

The English National Ballet celebrates 

its 70th birthday this year, kicking off 

with a three performance gala. It’s a 

chance to see old and new favourites 

from George Balanchine’s classic, 

Apollo, to Akram Khan’s Dust, a 

haunting take on a First World War 

munitions factory. 

ballet.org.uk/70thanniversary-gala 

Endgame 

05 FEBRUARY–28 MARCH 2020. 

PREVIEWS FROM 27 JANUARY 

The Old Vic has a tantalising head 

to head as veteran actor, Alan 

Cummings joins Harry Potter star, 

Daniel Radcliffe, in Samuel Beckett’s 

bleak comedy, Endgame. Set after 

a supposed apocalyptic disaster, 

Cummings plays blind Hamm, who 

is unable to stand whilst Radcliffe is 

his unable to sit servant, Clov. 

oldvictheatre.com 


AUCTIONS 

Fellows Fine Jewellery Sale 

30 JANUARY 2020 

This jewellery auction contains 

luxury pieces from renowned 

designers, names such as Cartier, 

Graff, and Van Cleef & Arpels - as 

well as pieces of historical interest, 

ranging from antiquity to modern 

day. 

fellows.co.uk 

MESSAGE IN A BOTTLE 

18 FEBRUARY–21 MARCH 2020. 

PREVIEWS FROM 06 FEBRUARY 

EVERY LITTLE THING THE POLICE DID WAS MAGIC IN 

THEIR POST PUNK HEYDAY. NOW STING’S POLICE AND 

SOLO HITS FORM A NEW MUSICAL, MESSAGE IN A 

BOTTLE. OPENING AT LONDON’S PEACOCK THEATRE 

IN FEBRUARY, THE DANCE SPECTACLE OF THREE 

ADVENTUROUS SIBLINGS HEADS NORTH IN APRIL. 

SADLERSWELLS.COM; THELOWRY.COM; 

BIRMINGHAMHIPPODROME.COM 

© RICHARD YOUNG 

Bonhams Jewellery Sale 

04 DECEMBER 2019 

PREVIEWS FROM 01 

DECEMBER 

Barbara Taylor Bradford has long 

been a Woman of Substance – 

with 32 novels selling over 90 million 

copies worldwide. Now ten of her 

statement jewels are going under 

Bonhams’ hammer in its winter 

jewellery sale along New Bond 

Street. Gems include an 

iconic Jean Schlumberger 

Bird on 

a Rock 

brooch for 

Tiffany & Co. 

bonhams.com 

© JOHAN PERSSON 


10of the best 

FESTIVE 

EXPERIENCES 

Words | Max Wooldridge 

1 


MEET A REINDEER 

MAKE A FURRY 

FRIEND OR TWO 

GLIDE INTO A WINTER OASIS 

ENJOY THE MAGIC OF SKATING AT ONE OF 

LONDON'S MOST BEAUTIFUL ICE RINKS 

The Cairngorm Reindeer Herd 

Visit the UK’s only wild reindeer herd in the Glenmore 

Forest Park with an experienced herder and pet and 

befriend the cute and cuddly reindeer- this unique 

experience will get you feeling festive in no time. 

cairngormreindeer.co.uk 

Tower of London Ice Rink 

Head to the Tower of London Ice Rink, 

where you can glide to the lights, set 

against the fortress wall, adding to the 

dramatic jaw dropping views of the 

fortress beside the River Thames. (16 

November to 11 January) 

toweroflondonicerink.co.uk 

Skate at Somerset House 

Enjoy Fortnum & Mason shopping 

followed by ice-skating at London’s 

Somerset House (13 November to 

5 January) as the historic venue’s 

elegant West Wing gets transformed 

into a Christmas Arcade. 

somersethouse.org.uk 

BARK THE HERALD ANGELS SING 

LEARN HOW TO HARNESS DOGS 

TO YOUR SLEIGH 

Dog Sledding at Eagle Brae 

Imagine whizzing through the beautiful Scottish Highlands on a crisp winter’s day 

pulled along by eight dogs, experiencing the thrill of dog-sledding at exhilarating 

speeds over a three mile long championship course! Available to log cabin guests. 

eaglebrae.co.uk 

MOVIE NIGHTS 

HOME ALONE FOR 

THE HOLIDAYS 

The Luna Winter Cinema 

The Luna Winter Cinema returns this Christmas with 

a selection of classic Christmas films on the big screen 

at two special historic venues, Kensington Palace in 

London and Liverpool’s St George’s Hall. 

Settle back in comfy seats and enjoy festive favourites 

such as Home Alone, Love Actually, Elf and It's A 

Wonderful Life. Premium tickets at Kensington Palace 

events offer film fans a luxury sofa for two and butler 

service throughout (15 to 23 December). 

thelunacinema.com 


HUSKY CHRISTMAS TO YOU 

CREATE TRULY UNFORGETTABLE MEMORIES 

WITH THE CHILDREN 

The Husky Cave at Drusillas Park 

Visit real husky dogs in an ice cave at Drusillas Park zoo in East Sussex. Children will 

love meeting – and being photographed with - these cuddly canines (weekends from 

17 Nov, daily from 13 December). 

drusillas.co.uk 

WALK OUT TO WINTER 

A FESTIVE WELCOME 

AWAITS IN EDINBURGH 

Winter Windows Exhibition 

Head to Edinburgh for Winter Windows, a collection 

of colourful stained-glass window designs on show 

across the city. This year’s displays, the work of 

Edinburgh school pupils, focus on ‘A Festive Welcome’ 

theme (16 November to 26 December). 

edinburghschristmas.com/whats-on 

STAY FOR CHRISTMAS AT HADDON HALL 

CANDLELIGHT TOURS, FESTIVE FOOD, 

DRINK AND MUSIC 

A Christmas Candlelight Tour 

Discover Haddon Hall in Derbyshire by candlelight. Throughout December, the stately 

home hosts candlelight tours of its atmospheric halls and chambers under a myriad of 

candles. The early evening tours begin with mulled wine and warm mince pies. 

haddonhall.co.uk 

20 BritishTravelJournal.com 

HISTORIC HOUSES 

JOY TO THE WORLD 

IN KENT 

A National Trust Favourite 

Welcome in the festive season with Christmas carols 

in the outdoor medieval courtyard of National Trust 

property, Ightham Mote. Enjoy mulled wine and 

mince pies, and a sing-a-long with the choir (13 & 20 

December, 7pm). 

nationaltrust.org.uk/ightham-mote 

©NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/JOHN MILLER

BRITISH 

TRAVEL 

JOURNAL 

L O V E S 

2 0 1 9 

TAKE A MASTERCLASS 

PERFECT CHRISTMAS 

IN NORFOLK 

Become a Master at Festive Entertaining 

Learn how to temper chocolate and make chocolate 

praline rum truffles, and perfect festive canapés like 

smoked salmon lemon blinis, palmiers and mince pies 

with almond toppings (29 November to 1 December 

2019) at the Hales Hall & The Great Barn Hotel. 

haleshall.com 

ROMANTIC DINING 

SPEND CHRISTMAS 

ON THE WATER 

Dine in the Glass Room restaurant 

Step onboard this beautiful restaurant and sail away for 

Christmas. With chic nautical interiors and an all-glass 

exterior offering magnificent views of the city. On 

Christmas Day there’s a five-course set menu, wine, 

bubbles, a festive band and Christmas present from 

Bateaux London themselves. But no matter which day you 

choose to cruise you will be treated to the exceptional 

views of iconic London landmarks including London 

Eye, Houses of Parliament and Tower of London. Sip on 

delicious drinks whilst being serenaded by peaceful live 

music, watching London unfold around you. Indulge in 

beautifully created traditional dishes, packed with flavour 

as busy city life drifts away. With set menus centred 

around 'in-season' ingredients - it’s British cooking at its 

finest. Sail from Embankment Pier for lunch or dinner 

(29 November-30 December). Prices from £49 per person. 

bateauxlondon.com 


OUTDO 

THE 

GREAT 


One of the simplest ways to stay fit 

is to get out and walk. Fortunately in 

Britain there are 2,500 miles of 

National Trails through some of the 

loveliest countryside in the world 

Words | Adrian Mourby 

ORS 

The hill fort of British Camp in the Malvern Hills, 

an Iron Age fort and extensive earthworks 


IMAGES Left-right: The White Horse at Uffington; 

The Greyhound Inn, Letcombe Regis; ncoming tide at 

Brancaster Staithe on the North Norfolk coast; The hill fort 

of British Camp in the Malvern Hills, an Iron Age fort and 

extensive earthworks; The Cottage in the Wood, Malvern. 

WALKING IS GOOD FOR US. When Bill 

Bryson made his epic journey along the 

Appalachian Trail, he was delighted by not 

only how much wisdom he gained, but by 

how much weight he lost. William Wordsworth used to tramp 

around the Lake District all day composing poems in his head 

before writing them down at home. Rousseau and Dickens 

both covered great distances on foot specifically in order to 

think. Our minds and bodies benefit from getting out into 

the countryside, sniffing the air and taking in the scenery. 

It’s only when the British try hiking in other countries that 

we realise how very blessed this nation is with its National 

Trails and rights of access for walkers. There are fifteen of 

these major routes established by the National Trust and they 

are sacrosanct. No one can build their new house across a 

trail or take pot shots at you for trespassing on their land. All 

these routes are clearly marked with their own signage or the 

National Trust acorn symbol so you won’t get lost. Best of all, 

following these paths means you get to visit some beautiful 

village pubs and stay at some lovely hotels too. 

Criss-crossing Britain’s National Trails there are smaller 

local routes. Take an Ordnance Survey map out into the 

British countryside and you’ll be amazed how often routes 

split off and subdivide, offering a seemingly infinite number 

of ways to get from A to B and back again. 

Seeing Britain on foot is the best way to appreciate the 

extraordinary geographical variety in this country. From 

broad river-valleys to dense, deciduous woodland, from 

hilltop forts to wild heathland to flatlands that run all the 

way to the sea, each British county looks so different from its 

neighbours. And by the end of the day you’ll be feeling a lot 

fitter too. à 

THE RIDGEWAY 

SOUTHERN ENGLAND 

The Ridgeway is a splendid 87-mile track from the standing 

stones of Avebury, Wiltshire to Ivinghoe Beacon in 

Buckinghamshire. In ancient times this track was a trading route 

that crossed England diagonally from the English Channel 

to the North Sea. Today it has the advantage for walkers of 

keeping mostly to high ground. This means that unlike many 

National Walks, you are up on the crests of hills much of the 

time, looking down on the patchwork wonder of England’s 

farmland. At one point you even pass Chequers, the country 

home of the British prime minister, where you can wave at the 

security cameras as they follow your progress. Other parts of 

the route take in the White Horse at Uffington, carved into the 

hillside during the Bronze Age, and a crossing of the Thames at 

Streatley. 

Where to stay 

The Greyhound Inn, Letcombe Regis 

The Greyhound at Letcombe Regis is a pleasant, welcoming 

brick-built Victorian pub very close to the Ridgeway. Walkers 

turn off at Segsbury Camp, one of a number of Iron Age 

earthwork forts that stand alongside the Ridgeway, and 

drop quickly down into the village. The Greyhound has eight 

comfortable bedrooms for travellers and serves excellent food. 

IMAGES © HISTORIC ENGLAND / VISITBRITAIN/ROD EDWARDS / ©VISIT BRITAIN/ANDREW PICKETT 


THE NORFOLK 

COAST PATH 

EASTERN ENGLAND 

The Norfolk Coast Path is an unusual National Trail because 

it consists of two very different sections, one of which is not 

coastal at all. The route starts inland at Knettishall Heath just 

outside Thetford and then follows a Roman road (now known 

as “Peddars Way”) to the coast at Hunstanton before running 

east along the Norfolk coast to Cromer. The whole route is 

93 miles - and mostly flat. At one point it passes through The 

Brecks, remote heathland which is said to be one of the driest 

places in England. It’s a gorse-covered landscape with just the 

occasional Scots pine and unusual fauna like the rare - and very 

shy - golden pheasant. The second half of the route enjoys views 

of the North Sea which are not to be missed even if the weather 

is bracing. 

Where to stay 

The Chequers Inn, Thornham, 

Stay at Chequers in Thornham, an inn that dates back to the 

sixteenth century. It has a traditional low-ceilinged bar, large 

open fireplace and eleven dog-friendly bedrooms under the 

eaves upstairs. Thornham is perfectly situated for exploring the 

beaches of Brancaster and Holkham, as well as bird reserves at 

Titchwell and Holme, and the royal estate at Sandringham. 

MALVERNS HILLS 

MIDDLE ENGLAND 

The landscape that inspired Sir Edward Elgar runs for seven miles, 

north to south along the ridge of the Malvern Hills. The composer 

could see this volcanic hill-range from his family home in Worcester. 

He is buried just below the hills at St Wulstan’s Church. 

Unlike many of the great national trails, the Malvern Hills can be 

walked north to south in a day if you start early enough. There are 

a number of steep ascents but great views to be had overlooking 

the broad Severn Valley to the east and the rolling hills of 

Gloucestershire to the west. Half way along walkers pass the home 

of Sir Barry Jackson, founder of the Birmingham Repertory Theatre 

where Bernard Shaw was a frequent visitor. The country home of the 

Cadbury family of chocolate fame also lies nearby. 

Just below Iron Age British Camp, the Malvern Hills Hotel 

provides great lunchtime sustenance for walkers. 

Where to stay 

The Cottage in the Wood, Malvern 

The Cottage in the Wood was built as a dower house for the 

chatelaine of Blackmore Park. This 3,226-acre estate stood on the 

plain below the Malvern Hills but in 1921 the main house burned 

down. By 1919 the cottage up in the woods had already been 

turned into a restaurant. Today it offers 26 bedrooms - and has just 

been promoted from a Michelin Plate to a Michelin One Star. à 


IMAGES Left-right: The South Sands Beach; The 

South Sands Hotel; Boats moored in the marina in 

the harbour at Torquay in South Devon 

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THE SOUTH WEST COAST 

PAT H 

SOUTH WEST ENGLAND 

The South West Coast Path is the longest of Britain’s National Trails, a 

total of 630 miles of gorgeous sea views. It starts at South Haven in Dorset 

and runs west to Chesil Beach through Lyme Regis, of French Lieutenant’s 

Woman and Persuasion fame, and round Torquay, the fictional location of 

Fawlty Towers. 

The origins of the pathway lie in the coastguard’s need to access every 

mile of the southwest coast while patrolling for smugglers but since 1978 

its purpose has been wholly recreational. Half-way along the southern 

stretch of the route, near Salcombe, lies the abandoned RAF airfield of Bolt 

Head. Today this is just grassland but during World War II Bolt Head helped 

protect shipping in the English Channel. In the middle of the former airfield 

there's a memorial to 17 RAF service personnel killed here. 

The pathway then continues on towards Cornwall, past Plymouth and 

through Polperro and Penzance, turning the corner at Land’s End and 

ending in Minehead. 

Where to stay 

The South Sands Hotel, South Devon 

Near Salcombe sits South Sands on its own beach. This is a bright, white 

New England clapboard-style hotel with the delicious smell of wood-smoke 

rising from the fireplace in its bar. 

At night you can hear the sea surging below the bedrooms as the tide 

comes in, and in the morning you wake up to stunning sea views. à 

IMAGES ©VISITBRITAIN/ANDREW PICKETT/ADAM BURTON 


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THE COTSWOLD WAY 

SOUTH WEST ENGLAND 

Starting in the Cotswold town of Chipping Camden, this 102-mile route 

passes through some glorious countryside with quite a few climbs. As well 

as skirting Cheltenham, Stroud and Old Sodbury, the walk takes in beauty 

spots like Hailes Abbey, Sudeley Castle and the site of the Civil War Battle of 

Lansdowne above Bath. Allow a week if you’re attempting the whole route. 

That said, in 2014 the entire 102 miles was run in 19 hours, 31 minutes by a 

member of the Swindon Harriers. 

One of the best sections of the route is actually at its start in Chipping 

Camden. From here the walk climbs up to Broadway Tower, a tall stone 

folly built in 1799 so that Lady Coventry would have something imposing 

to see on the horizon from her home, 22 miles away in Worcester. To get 

there, walkers pass through tranquil, sheep-cropped fields where in 1612 the 

British made the first attempt in modern times to revive the Olympic Games. 

To this day shin-kicking - a little known “Olympick” sport - is still played 

annually in the fields between Chipping Camden and Broadway. 

Where to stay 

Kings Hotel, Chipping Camden 

Stay at Kings Hotel, Chipping Camden, an amalgam of sixteenth and 

eighteenth-century townhouses overlooking the town’s main square and its 

mediaeval market hall. Kings has a reputation for fine-dining - and a haunted 

kitchen. Bedrooms are over the dining room or in an old cottage complex in 

the grounds. There is also a cocktail bar that mixes a mean martini. 

IMAGES ©VISITBRITAIN/ADAM BURTON/DIANA JARVIS / THOMAS HEATON / THAMES NATIONAL PATH TRAIL 


IMAGES Left-right: Kings Hotel, Chipping Camden; Broadway Tower; 

Traditional Cotswold stone cottages and stone footbridge in the 

Cotswolds village of Lower Slaughter; UNESCO World Heritage Site 

of Hadrianís Wall; The Compleat Angler Hotel; The Thames Path. 

HADRIAN’S WALL 

NORTHERN ENGLAND 

One of the most rugged and rewarding walks in Britain is along 

Hadrian’s Wall, the 74-mile stone barrier that the Romans 

built to keep the Picts and Scots out of England. Created in 

2003, the Hadrian’s Wall Path runs ten miles longer, stretching 

literally from coast to coast, starting at Barrow in Furness on 

the Cumbrian coast and ending at the aptly named Wallsend 

near Newcastle. Except when passing through a few towns and 

villages, visitors follow not just the route of the second-century 

AD wall, but the vallum itself which is the longest Roman 

remain in Europe. Some keen walkers aim to complete it over a 

long weekend, but there is a lot of up and down. The Romans, 

believing in straight lines, when they came to a cliff or hill just 

went straight up and over it. Better to aim for a five-day trek and 

enjoy some of the agreeable hotels and inns along the way. 

Where to stay 

The String of Horses, Great Corby 

The String of Horses is a traditional coaching inn six miles south 

of the wall near Carlisle. It dates from 1659 and is built around 

a large courtyard where tired steeds could be changed for fresh 

ones (hence the name “String of Horses”). Inside there is plenty 

of oak panelling and roaring fires in the evening. It’s everything 

you’d expect of a British coaching inn. 

THAMES PATH 

EASTERN ENGLAND 

The Thames Path is unique among Britain’s National Trails 

because it follows the royal river for almost all of its 184 miles, 

from the Cotswold hills where it rises, down through London to the 

Thames Barrier in Greenwich. 

One of the loveliest sections of the path is from Oxford all 

the way down to Marlow. Do take the time to explore this lovely 

Buckinghamshire market town where the poets Percy Bysshe 

Shelley and T. S. Eliot lived (albeit 100 years apart). Both men 

were residents of Marlow’s West Street. Other writers to enjoy the 

Thames Path here include Shelley’s wife Mary, who completed her 

novel Frankenstein while living in Marlow in 1817. Jerome K. Jerome 

is said to have written parts of his comic novel, Three Men in a 

Boat at the Two Brewers, a pub on the banks of the Thames here. 

Where to stay 

The Compleat Angler Hotel, Marlow 

Famed for its Indian cuisine, The Compleat Angler Hotel takes 

its name from Isaak Walton’s seventeenth-century classic about 

fishing. 

It stands next to a chain bridge constructed in 1832 that 

resembles the famous Széchenyi Chain Bridge across the Danube 

in Budapest. The Bristol engineer, William Tierney Clark designed 

them both. u 


I N T E R V I E W W I T H 

PAUL 

O’NEILL 

Cliveden House 

A country estate that has stood the test of time like no other. 

Chantal Borciani uncovers the secrets of Cliveden House 

and meets new executive head chef, Paul O’Neill 

SET IN 376 ACRES OF National Trust 

woodland, Cliveden House has one 

of the most colourful legacies of any 

British country house. The magnificent 

estate sets the stage for over 350 years of 

aristocratic dalliance, regal parties, political 

scandal and iconic moments in British history. 

Cliveden was built in 1666 by the 2nd 

Duke of Buckingham, as a gift to his mistress, 

and since then has been home to three 

countesses, a Prince of Wales, two dukes, and 

the Viscounts Astor. Its roll-call of guests is 

just as illustrious; Queen Victoria is noted as 

a frequent guest during her reign, writer and 

playwright George Bernard Shaw visited, as 

did Winston Churchill, Henry Ford, Teddy 

Roosevelt, Mahatma Gandhi, and the Beatles 

– who filmed part of their movie Help! at 

Cliveden. 

Today, the elegant hotel is still favoured 

among the elite – the Duchess of Sussex 

famously spent the night before her wedding at 

the five-star luxury hotel – as did many of the 

star-studded guests of the Royal Wedding. 

At the turn of the year, Paul O’Neill took on 

the role of executive chef at Cliveden – a big 

task considering the calibre of guests rolling 

up the immaculate drive, but the revered chef 

is no stranger to the pinnacles of power. Paul 

started his career at Claridges, worked at 

Ashdown Park, won the Roux scholarship in 

2003, and worked under Andre Garrett at 

Cliveden before taking over the helm. 

He says it’s impossible not to be inspired by 

the setting where he works. “When guests walk 

up that driveway it's an experience in itself and 

the food should reflect that sense of occasion. 

This place has such an amazing history.” 

The building itself most certainly reflects 

some fine British pedigree. The Grade 1 listed 

Italianate mansion that stands today was built 

in 1851 by the architect Charles Barry following 

two catastrophic fires that destroyed the 

original mansion and its replacement in 1795 

and 1849. Charles Barry designed The Palace 

of Westminster and the Houses of Parliament 

and Cliveden is still considered to be one of his 

architectural masterpieces. 

Amid such grandeur, it would be easy to 

rest on your laurels but Paul’s attention to 

detail and culinary prowess has long-since 

been celebrated by the industry. 

“I like to strip things back to great 

ingredients, we work seasonally and let the 

produce sing.” 

The hotel welcomes guests for afternoon 


tea, à la carte and seven-course tasting 

menus at the Cliveden Dining Room, 

relaxed dining at The Astor Grill and private 

dining in several opulent banquet rooms – 

should you wish to follow in the footsteps of 

Chaplin, Churchill, Lennon and Lawrence. 

“I want everyone who walks through the 

door to be wowed by whatever they eat, 

whether they’re coming for afternoon tea, a 

sandwich or a seven-course tasting menu,” 

explains Paul. 

Seasonality is key, he continues. “Spring 

is fantastic because it’s the start of all the 

great produce such as the new season 

asparagus and wild garlic but also I like 

autumn with the fabulous root vegetables 

and British ingredients.” 

Life has come full circle for the chef, 

who visited Cliveden during his Roux 

Scholarship with legendary gourmand 

Albert Roux. 

“A week before the final of the Roux 

Scholarship we came here with Albert 

because this was his one of his first 

jobs when he came to England. Funnily 

enough, he used to polish silver in what 

is now my office.” 

Set up by brothers Michel and 

Albert Roux, and now run by their 

sons Alain Roux and Michel Roux Jr, 

the Roux Scholarship is the premier 

competition for up and coming chefs 

in the UK. 

“I wouldn't be here today without 

it,” says Paul. “It was a once in a 

lifetime experience. Only last week 

Alain just phoned me up to see how 

things are going, it's really nice to have 

that family mentality and for them to 

be there to help you through anything 

you need.” 

Alongside Cliveden’s exquisite 

dining, guests staying overnight will à 


“Spring is fantastic because it’s the start of all the great 

produce such as the new season asparagus and wild garlic 

but also I like autumn with the fabulous root vegetables 

and British ingredients.” 

experience the full stately home hospitality. 

There are 48 flawless bedrooms and suites, 

including the famous Spring Cottage, which 

played a part in the Profumo affair that 

rocked British politics in the 1960s. In July 

1961, Christine Keeler was staying at Spring 

Cottage and met John Profumo, Secretary 

of State for War, at a party by Cliveden’s 

outdoor swimming pool. This meeting and 

their subsequent affair brought down the 

Conservative Government in 1963. 

We stayed in the Mansion House, in the 

sensational newly refurbished Deluxe Suites, 

furnished in a beautifully traditional, classic 

style. Luxurious and generously proportioned, 

the suites feature high ceilings and are 

decorated with antiques and original works 

of art with a very spacious lounge area, with 

open fireplace. Sunlight flooded in through 

the double set of sash windows, offering 

spectacular open views of the estate. 

Complete with complimentary access 

to the Butler's Pantry (honesty bar), you 

can enjoy a drink out on the large private 

terrace (with a table and chairs for six) and 

simply relax and unwind in what feels like the 

grandest of settings. Each of the guestrooms 

and suites (all named after characters in its 

history) have been refurbished to the highest 

standard, some with private hot tubs, separate 

dressing rooms, and there are even some suites 

designed to accommodate small dogs. 

The glorious gardens and woodlands, 

including the grand ‘Fountain of Love’ 

and romantic ‘Water Garden’, are today 

maintained and owned by the National Trust, 

open for hotel guests to enjoy at leisure, and 

for day visitors to explore for a small entry 

charge. For those who wish to follow the 

footsteps of dukes, earls and royalty inside the 

Mansion House, there are also guided tours 

of the hotel, held on Monday, Tuesday and 

Thursday afternoons, March-October. 

Hidden behind the brick walls of the garden 

and enveloped in tumbling scented roses 

and lavender, you will discover a tranquil 

oasis, offering a real sense of well-being and 

relaxation - in Cliveden’s magnificent spa. 

There are seven treatment rooms, offering 

quintessentially British treatments, such as the 

Signature Oskia Glow 75 minute Facial, an 

exercise studio, state-of-the-art gym, sublime 

indoor pool with Jacuzzi and in the centre of 

it all, the infamous ‘Profumo’ pool - which is 

incredibly the last remaining listed outdoor pool 

in England. Time spent here is certainly not time 

wasted, and if it had not been for our dinner 

reservation, I’m not sure we would have left the 

outdoor hot tubs before the evening drew in. 

The impressive Great Hall, complete 

with antique suits of armour and a vast, and 

ornately-carved, 16th-century fireplace, is the 

‘reception’ room for incoming guests – and 

also the perfect setting for an afternoon tea. 

The bar has found its home in the Library, 

facing south and overlooking the immaculately 

maintained 4-acre parterre. As you would 

expect, next to the bar is the Dining Room, 

exquisitely appointed and sharing the view 

across the 17th century terrace and down to 

the Thames valley, quite breathtaking on its 

own but absolutely brilliant when, as happens 

on most evenings, the resident red kites swoop 

and wheel, majestically, over the parterre. 

From every corner of the stately home, 

there are mesmeric views of the countryside, 

woodland, wildflowers or riverbeds and 

along each hallway room monikers give a 

hint of bygone days and historic moments; 

Gladstone, Kipling, Garibaldi, Asquith and 

so on. 

Yet there is only one place executive chef 

Paul wants to be, and that’s at the heart of 

Cliveden, in the kitchen with his brigade of 26 

staff. “It's my domain and it's what I love,” he 

concludes. u 


Home to some of the most spectacular landscapes 

the country has to offer, the Cotswolds will take 

your breath away with its idyllic villages and beautiful 

lakes as well as the endless number of activities 

and things to do all year round. With self-catering 

lakeside accommodation in the heart of the Cotswolds, 

you’ll enjoy everything this part of England has to 

offer. Many of our holiday properties are dog-friendly 

whilst the Cotswold Water Park has activities for 

the entire family to enjoy including fishing, water 

sports, cycling, swimming or just relaxing in your 

private hot tub or at one of the onsite spas. 

Book your holiday online at orionholidays.com or give us a call on 01285 861 839 

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Britain’s Finest 

VEGAN 

DINING 

As vegan food becomes not 

just popular, but mainstream, 

we’ve scoured the British Isles to 

find the best restaurants serving 

gourmet, plant-based food, in 

beautiful environments 

Words | Helen Holmes 

“Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants.” Three 

short sentences, coined in 2008 by food writer, 

Michael Pollan, neatly sum up the movement 

over the last decade towards eating more plantbased 

and natural food. We know it’s better for 

us, and we know it’s better for the planet – and 

as a consequence, eating food that has been 

messed around with as little as possible has 

become almost a given amongst people who 

really care about cooking and eating. 

From the championing of vegetables by chefs 

and writers like Yotam Ottolenghi and Anna 

Jones, to the creation of vegan menus at the 

fanciest of Michelin-starred restaurants, plantbased 

food is taking pride of place at our tables, 

whether we’re dining in or out. 

If you’re going vegan for your health, 

or cutting down on meat and dairy for 

environmental reasons, you won’t struggle to find 

amazing places to eat. Up and down the country, 

chefs are rethinking what good food looks like – 

and we’re not talking processed vegan junk food 

here, rather vegetables, as you have never seen 

them before. 


FARMACY 

74 Westbourne Grove, London, 

W2 5SH 

From plant-based high tea, 

through to candlelit dinner, 

accompanied by organic wines and 

sugar-free cocktails, Farmacy is 

the Notting Hill home of all things 

vegan. It’s a light and welcoming 

space, and their commitment to 

all things natural is reflected in the 

aesthetic, with lots of greenery and 

wooden surfaces. 

Founder Camilla Fayed says, 

“At Farmacy, we know that eating 

can heal both us and our world; we 

see food as medicine and are hyper 

conscious of the impact our eating 

habits are having on the planet.” 

The restaurant has its own farm 

in Kent, and all ingredients are 

either grown there or sourced from 

local suppliers. “I strongly believe 

that chefs and restaurants of the 

future have a duty to coexist with 

nature and constantly challenge 

food conventions,” says Camilla. 

“The speed the plant-based 

movement is taking in London is 

very exciting – people’s appetite to 

learn has increased, and we want 

to understand where the food 

on our plate has come from and 

the wider impact this has on the 

environment.” 

à 


VANILLA BLACK 

17-18 Took’s Court, London, EC4A 1LB 

Originally opened in York 2004, and relocated 

to London in 2008, Vanilla Black is possibly the 

country’s most upmarket vegetarian restaurant. 

Serving a gourmet vegetarian and vegan 

menu, in an unassuming side street near 

Chancery Lane, owner Andrew Dargue is 

proud to be confounding people’s expectations 

of plant-based food. “When we first opened, 

vegetarian offerings consisted of pasta bake 

and vegetable curry, and vegetarian restaurants 

looked more like cafés. We wanted to flip that 

around.” Their high-end food and elegant decor 

attract an eclectic clientele, “At any one time our 

diners could include a politician, a rock star, and a 

couple of students.” 

Half of the menu at Vanilla Black is vegan, 

and Andrew says that the movement towards 

vegan food has prompted them to explore new 

ingredients and processes. “A lot of people think 

the whole world is going to become vegan. I 

personally don’t. What I do believe is that plantbased 

eating will enter the mainstream more 

heavily, and not be seen as a sub-standard choice.” 


ANNA-LOKA 

114 Albany Road, Cardiff, CF24 3RU 

Since opening in 2015, Anna-Loka 

has twice been voted best vegan 

or vegetarian restaurant in Wales, 

and was shortlisted for the best 

restaurant in all categories at the 

Welsh Restaurant Awards 2019. 

Owner Adam El Tagoury says, “We 

try to deliver exceptional vegan food 

without compromising on taste. Our 

mission here is showcase vegan food to 

everyone.” 

HENDERSONS 

Various locations, Edinburgh 

With four locations across Edinburgh, 

including a fully vegan restaurant 

on Thistle Street, Hendersons claims 

to have the UK’s longest-running 

vegetarian restaurant. Their first 

outlet opened in 1962, and today 

the restaurants serve cutting-edge 

vegetarian and vegan cuisine 

made with fresh, local and organic 

ingredients. 

ACORN 

2 North Parade Passage, Bath, BA1 1NX 

The first fully vegan restaurant in the 

UK to be included in the Michelin 

Guide, Acorn is based in one of the 

oldest buildings in town – quite a feat in 

historic Bath. The menu is inventive and 

sophisticated, “We make refined food 

from plants,” says owner and head chef 

Richard Buckley. “Top quality ingredients 

and providence are a primary concern 

for us. Once you have such wonderful 

vegetables, it makes sense to treat them 

as well as you can.” 

Acorn moved from being a vegetarian 

restaurant to a vegan one in 2016. “It 

became a moral responsibility to do as 

much as we could for the future of the 

planet,” says Richard. “The menu was 

already 95% vegan so it wasn’t very 

difficult to make the final push.” 

WULF & LAMB 

243 Pavilion Road, London, SW1X 0BP 

From a light and airy building in a Chelsea 

mews, just off Sloane Square, Wulf & 

Lamb serves up ‘fiercely kind food’. Head 

Chef Franco Casolin has created a 100% 

plant-based menu of familiar favourites 

with a vegan difference. Owner Rosanna 

von Zweigbergk is confident about the 

future of vegan food, “We think we’ll see 

more innovation within the plant-based 

food industry – it’s very exciting!” For when 

the weather warms up, the restaurant 

also has a palm tree-lined courtyard for 

outdoor dining – an oasis away from the 

hustle and bustle of city life. 

THE ALLOTMENT 

18/22 Lloyd Street, Manchester, 

M2 5WA 

This award-winning vegan restaurant 

in the heart of Manchester offers a ten 

course taster menu, as well as à la carte 

choices – all regularly updated to make the 

most of locally-sourced, seasonal produce. 

TERRE À TERRE 

71 East Street, Brighton, BN1 1HQ 

Now a Brighton institution, Terre à Terre 

was founded by globetrotting chefs 

Amanda Powley and Philip Taylor in 1993. 

Located in the historic lanes area of the 

city, the restaurant serves up playful and 

exotic vegan and vegetarian food. 

BUBALA 

65 Commercial Street, London, E1 6BD 

A relative newcomer, but already highly 

thought of, Bubala offers middle eastern 

vegetarian food – with plenty of vegan 

options – in a chic Shoreditch restaurant. u 


STARGAZING 

Dark is the night 

As winter descends, and we instinctively hunker down in our 

homes, it’s easy to forget about the world outside. But one winter 

festival is determined to ensure we don’t forget to look out - and 

up. Emma Johnson explores the world of the Dark Skies… 

Words | Emma Johnson 


THE DARKER THE SKY, the more you can see; the 

blacker the night, the brighter the moon.” So starts the 

poem by Yorkshire poet Ian McMillan, commissioned 

in 2017 to write a poem that captured the essence of 

the Dark Skies Festival. His beautiful verse – entitled ‘Of Darker 

Skies and Lighter Thinking’ - speaks to a culture of busy people, 

too caught up in their own lives to see the beauty around them. 

McMillan likens the darkening skies to a map of the heavens, 

the wonders of time and space stretching out for us to see, and 

reminds us all to take a moment to remember how special the 

natural world can be. 

Now entering its sixth year, the Dark Skies Festival encourages 

people to look up, showing visitors that you don’t have to travel 

far to find a spot where you can look up at a pristine sky and 

stand in awe of the amazing array of stars shining above you. 

Organised in conjunction with the Yorkshire Dales and 

North York Moors National Park, with Northumberland and 

South Downs joining in later years, the festival started in 2015 

as way to encourage people, and children, to spend more time 

outdoors during the February half-term. The festival has grown 

exponentially each year since, with over 100 events and more 

than 7000 people attending everything from after-dark runs, 

talks and crafting sessions to the 50-mile off-road cycling race, 

True Grit, through the North York Moors, as well as starlight 

safaris and fine-dining events. 

Recent years have seen several other National Parks added 

to the Dark Skies programme, while an army of volunteers and 

businesses are now involved with staging events throughout 

autumn and winter. 

As areas of designated low light pollution, National Parks are 

some of the best places for spotting constellations, shooting stars 

and other cosmic happenings. In an urban area you will be lucky 

to see 20 stars on a clear night whereas in an area of low light 

pollution you could see as many as 2,000. 

This time of year is also the best for stargazing. Longer 

nights and clear skies, coupled with weaker light from the 

moon during autumn, and winter, means the inky black skies 

reflect even the smallest stars. In February 2020, the festival 

will also coincide with a new moon meaning the possibility for 

extraordinary lunar views. à 


THE WINTER SKY 

There are some 88 constellations of the Northern and 

Southern Hemispheres, as well as planets, to be spotted 

during this time. Richard Darn, an astronomer and 

Dark Skies Hunter with the festival explains that this 

time of year is dominated by the winter constellation of 

Orion, which is unmistakable with its hourglass shape. 

“In Greek mythology this is Orion the hunter,” explains 

Darn. “The top lefthand star called Betelgeuse looks 

orange to the naked eye and is a giant star near the end 

of its life. The three central belt stars are particularly 

distinctive and may - or may not! - have been the 

template for the line-up of the pyramids at Giza.” Darn 

also reminds us to look out for the wonderful sphinxlike 

profile of Leo toward the end of the winter season. 

While there are numerous great places for 

stargazing across each of the four protected 

landscapes involved in the festival, some spots deserve 

particular mention, including those which have been 

designated as Dark Sky Discovery Sites where it’s 

possible to see the Milky Way under the naked eye (see 

our side bar for more info) and are well-worth a special 

visit on a clear night. 

SHINING BRIGHT 

One of the best ways to enjoy the Dark Skies is with a 

stargazing safari in the company of an astronomer, in 

places as diverse as Malham Cove or outside Tan Hill 

Inn, the highest pub in Britain. In the North York Moors, 

popular astronomy sessions are held deep in Dalby 

Forest, on a coastal cliff top or in the grounds of Castle 

“You can 

now do 

anything 

from night 

zip-wiring 

at Go Ape in 

Dalby Forest 

to visiting 

the pop-up 

planetarium 

on Hidden 

Horizons 

tours 

throughout 

the dark sky 

season. ” 

Howard, with the stately home acting as a backdrop. 

In addition, you could also go canoeing on Scar House 

Reservoir in Nidderdale under a canopy of stars or try 

a yoga and mindfulness session from Adventures for 

the Soul at Great Fryup Dale in the North York Moors 

with a dark skies walk afterwards in the company of an 

astronomer. 

In the South Downs, open evenings at various 

observatories allow you to see the stars, planets and 

moon through some of the country’s largest, and 

most powerful telescopes, while you can also take 

guided tours of the celestial wonders which are on view 

during the winter months, including Taurus and the 

Pleiades. Other events include a hike under the stars 

up to Beacon Hill and stargazing evenings in Lewes, 

Petersfield, Arundel and Midhurst, while on 19 February 

you can enjoy a ‘star party’ on Brighton Seafront, or 

join the wildlife in Petworth Deer Park for an evening of 

moongazing with the astronomer John Mason from the 

South Downs planetarium. 

As the festival has grown, many businesses have 

been inspired to get involved too, meaning you can 

now do anything from night zip-wiring at Go Ape in 

Dalby Forest to visiting the pop-up planetarium on 

Hidden Horizons tours throughout the dark sky season. 

There are also several popular night photography 

courses; Gaze and Graze evenings at local eateries and 

destinations, which match astronomy with fine-dining 

and a backdrop of stars, as well as nocturnal wildlife 

sessions and opportunities to see how artists interpret 

the dark skies. 

IMAGES © PAUL HOWELL / VISITBRITAIN/KRIS WILLIAMS 


TINY STARGAZERS 

Family astronomy is a big focus for 

the entire event, and there are several 

theatrical and scientific displays that 

children will love. Star Seekers in the 

South Downs is a unique theatre 

experience for children, while the Little 

Star show is a starlit display designed 

to delight babies aged 6 – 18 months. 

In Yorkshire, early evening events 

include several sessions with experts 

who can point out some of the most 

well-known constellations, while 

children can also join a ghost walk 

through the atmospheric fishing village 

of Robin Hood’s Bay, accompany 

rangers and guides out into the 

countryside to watch nocturnal wildlife 

or head to the National Centre for Birds 

of Prey near Helmsley to watch owls in 

flight. 

There is a wealth of natural 

wonders to explore this winter, with 

many events entirely free and many 

others that will expand your mind 

and open your eyes a world above our 

heads, showing how easy it is to enjoy 

the cosmos without leaving planet 

Earth. As Ian McMillan reminds us: 

“The inky sea is waiting; the night 

boat sets sail.”u 

SOAK UP THE ATMOSPHERE 

STAY WITH A LOCAL 

NIGHT SKY 

ENTHUSIAST 

Embrace the beauty of the skies 

> Cawthorne House, Pickering 

This lovely B&B will take guests into Dalby Forest 

for a stargazing session armed with a powerful 

telescope, flask of hot chocolate, blankets and deck 

chairs. £180 for a two night stay per couple. 

> Carr House Farm, Ampleforth 

Stargazing fans, Anna and Jack will gladly provide 

guests with chairs, stargazing guides, red light 

torches, blankets and bacon sandwiches if they 

want to spend an evening outside. £100 per room 

per night based on two people sharing. 

GOOD TO KNOW 

DARK SKY 

DISCOVERY SITES 

Where to see the Milky Way 

> National Park Centres: Danby and 

Sutton Bank; or Hawes and Malham 

> Scarborough and Ryedale 

Astronomical Society Observatories in 

Dalby Forest 

> Buckden National Park Car Park 

> Tan Hill Inn, Yorkshire Dales 

> Nidderdale: Toft Gate Lime Kiln; Scar 

House; Fewston; or Thruscross Reservoir 

> Hampshire: Winchester Science Centre 

& Planetarium; Old Winchester Hill 

Nature Reserve; Butser Hill; Queen 

Elizabeth Country Park 

> Sussex: Iping Common; Devil's Dyke; 

Ditchling Beacon; Birling Gap 

UPCOMING DARK SKIES FESTIVALS 

> SOUTH DOWNS 


> NORTH YORK MOORS AND 

YORKSHIRE DALES 

14 FEBRUARY TO 1 MARCH 2020 

DARKSKIESNATIONALPARKS.ORG.UK 


THE HOUSE 

Kate built 

Fashion superstar Kate Moss has taken this luxury Cotswolds 

design-meets-country-living concept to a whole new level, 

Chairman John Hitchcox shows Emma Johnson around 

JOHN HITCHCOX is everything you’d expect from 

someone who counts Simon le Bon, Kate Moss and Jade 

Jagger amongst his friends – charismatic, mischievous, 

very cool – but also down-to-earth and refreshingly 

pragmatic. He came up with the concept for The Lakes, 

he tells me, after finding himself trudging around Regent’s 

Park, two young children in tow, thinking, ‘There has to be 

something better than this’. 

“I wrestled with where I wanted to raise my children. I 

was a total urbanite, but I wanted the kids to be brought up 

in the country – somewhere they could play outside, explore 

woodland, go sailing. For years I had a real jostle about 

where we should live.” 

The answer, it seems, was The Lakes – a place where 

parents could come with their children, at weekends and 

during school holidays, and pick up as much country living 

as they could, while enjoying the benefits of a life in London 

too. “The idea was to create somewhere you could come and 

get all the luxuries you were used to in a hotel or an urban 

environment, but in the country.” 

Hitchcox found the site in 1999, and in 2008, after 

numerous years of planning machinations, work began. 

It was no small venture. Over the past decade the team 

have taken what was previously a barren 850-acre gravel 

pit expanse to a beautiful secluded setting, complete with 

a wealth of natural wildlife and stunning scenery. There 

are today 160 luxury, contemporary, designer 4, 5 and 6 

bedroom lakeside and woodland homes, and managed 

3 bedroom luxury apartments, (their newest investment 

opportunities) nestled amongst over 500,000 indigenous 

trees. 

There's also the Orchard Spa with a glorious 17-metre 

heated pool, Elsa’s - a relaxed and informal restaurant - not 

to mention numerous on-site activites including paddle 

boarding, zip wiring, yoga, fishing, canoeing, kayaking and 

bike hire. 

A little bit reminiscent of parts of north America, or even the 

Scandinavian forests, The Lakes feels very unique. Plots are 

available to purchase both on the lakes and woodland areas 

- and houses are designed from a range of layouts and à 



styles, making each house bespoke. “Our only restriction is to make sure 

each house blends in with the scenery, so it feels harmonious,” Hitchcox 

explains. “And we insist on using entirely local materials – larch from 

local farms, Cotswold stone, for instance.” 

Even though the development feels like it has naturally evolved into its 

landscape, it is clear that the level of planning and precision is secondto-none. 

And, what is perhaps most unique about The Lakes is the way 

that a community has sprung up amongst residents here. Saturday 

evenings during the summer sees a communal barbeque in the woods, 

where everyone pitches in, while the well-attended spa provides a 

space for parents and children to relax or keep fit and woodland 

activities educate and entertain children during the holidays. 

“Everyone feels like they’re part of things here. We wanted to 

build a community and have residents be part of those things they 

care about. And that’s what we’ve got here – a group of likeminded 

people, most are from London, but with an international flair. Now our 

residents all know each other, and they appreciate that – they know 

what it’s like to be in a new country and start again with the social life.” 

And it’s not only their social life that is taken care of. Because of 

the nature of the development, maintenance issues are dealt with 

centrally and the Lakes’ concierge service means you can organise a 

wealth of activities and services from your own home, including having 

your fridge pre-stocked before you arrive and your fire lit. “I suppose 

it’s almost the opposite of the country pile,” says Hitchcox. “You don’t 

have maintenance and management issues, your house is looked after 

when you’re away and when you arrive the place is ready for you.” This 

concept of a country mansion without the maintenance headache is 

more pertinent than ever. With water on all sides, and hundreds of 

trees surrounding each acre plot, these woodland houses offer a real 

sense of secluded luxury and boast an enviable amount of space to 


EDITOR'S HIGHLIGHTS 

STAYING AT THE 

LAKES BY YOO 

boot. “With the lake houses, we built 

them on the water, so your garden is 

the lake. Here we’ve got an acre of 

land to play with in each plot. I’m even 

thinking about building treehouses…” 

smiles Hitchcox. 

As we talk, sitting in the impressive 

double-height sitting room, looking 

out to the garden and the lake beyond, 

the autumn rain is lashing against the 

floor-to-ceiling windows. How has 

Hitchcox and his team rationalised 

this indoor/outdoor living that their 

designs seem to encapsulate, with the 

inevitable British drizzle? “There are 

little details in the house throughout 

that lend themselves to that,” he 

says, jumping up and taking me into 

a smaller, second sitting room with 

glass walls on two sides. “These open 

completely, so the whole room changes 

and you’ve got that real sense of being 

outside, even if the weather means 

you’re inside. Suddenly the entire house 

becomes completely open – and you 

start to live outside more.” 

It is clear that every detail has been 

considered here. Even if it was Kate 

Moss’s first foray into interior design, 

it’s a confident one, with real splashes 

of inspiration: a painted peacock darts 

across a skirting board, a vintage 

record player encourages you to stop 

and sit, and a striking image of Moss 

herself, dressed in a figure-squeezing 

gold lamé suit dominates the main 

landing. It could feel affected, out-ofplace 

in this quiet Cotswolds enclave, 

and yet, it fits somehow, despite its 

starry aspirations. 

“Well, Kate lives down here,” says 

Hitchcox. “And she seems to know 

what works. When we first started 

talking about this, I walked around her 

house and said, ‘This place is really 

cool, you should design something for 

us’. We talked about several different 

projects, and then she came down here 

one day, and saw The Barnhouse and 

loved it – she said it reminded her of 

Johnny Cash’s woodland house. It just 

seemed like a great place to start. It 

wasn’t too big, a nice intro into what 

Kate could do.” 

And, by all accounts, this new 

direction into interiors has been a 

successful one for the model, and the 

team at The Lakes. 

As a local girl, it’s clear Kate Moss 

has an eye for the Cotswold style. “She’s 

a perfect fit really – local influence with 

an international outlook. And she’s 

done a brilliant job. It offers something 

completely different from the lake 

houses, and I’m thrilled with it… I want 

to move in,” finishes Hitchcox. u 

Barnhouse sleeps 10 with 5-bedrooms, 

7-bathrooms and dining space for 12 

guests. Minimum 3 night stay priced from 

£1,000.00 per night, thelakesbyyoo.com 

DON'T MISS 

Breakfast and pizza from Elsa’s 

Enjoy smashed avocado and poached 

egg for breakfast and wood fired pizzas 

(takeaway options also available) Fri/Sat 

evenings in this cosy, cute tipi restaurant. 

Kayaking, canoeing, or stand-up 

paddle boarding on the lake 

Take to the water and you’ll see the wildlife 

and unique Cotswold reed beds up close. 

A leisurely paddle will take you past swans, 

tufted ducks, water voles, heron and more. 

Zipwiring over the lake 

There’s little to rival the excitement 

of launching yourself into the abyss 

suspended on a single steel wire! 

Take time out at Orchard Spa 

With treatments by Daylesford and Oskia, 

a 17-metre indoor pool, gym, steam room 

and sauna, it rivals any in the Capital. 


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MEET the M AKER 

T H E P O T T E R ’ S W H E E L 

à 


Emma Johnson visits the ancient village of 

Muchelney in Somerset, to meet master potter 

John Leach, who has made his home and his 

life in this beautiful place for over 50 years… 

NESTLED AMONGST the water-flanked lanes 

and thatched-roofs of the Somerset Levels, 

is the village of Muchelney, home to the 

John Leach Pottery. This tranquil place, with 

its ancient abbey and 15th century church, has a rich 

heritage and a wealth of beautiful houses and quaint 

cottages, surrounded on all sides by the expansive green 

fields and watery stretches of the Levels - but it is the 

peace of the village which master potter John Leach loves 

most. “It’s a silence you can almost hear,” he says. 

Muchelney has been home to John Leach Pottery since 

1965, when John and his wife Lizzie decided to turn John’s 

family background in pottery into a business. 

Both John’s father and grandfather (renowned potter 

Bernard Leach) were potters, and John was raised on the 

tradition of high-quality hand-thrown ceramics, made 

with love and care in a small family pottery. 

The pottery produces a series of kitchen pots and 

serving dishes, as well as cups, jugs, plates and storage 

jars. Made using local clays, the honey-coloured pieces 

are wood-fired in a three-chambered kiln to 1320°C, 

giving them a distinctive 'toasted' finish. “The flames in 

the kiln impinge on the pot's surface marking it uniquely 

and unpredictably,” explains John. 

“My pieces 

are all about 

understanding 

line and form 

– a tactile feast 

for the eyes 

as well as the 

hand” 

Leach’s aesthetic is for tactile, robust pieces, with 

an earthy, simplistic feel and a rawness to them that 

connects to both the landscape around and the 

heritage which inspired them. The creation of the pots 

is based on using natural substances, and knowing 

how they can be worked to create items of beauty and 

functionality. “My pieces are all about understanding 

line and form – a tactile feast for the eyes as well as the 

hand,” explains John. 

Leach pots are not decorated or painted during the 

process of making them, as John and his team feel that 

the natural marks from firing create a unique design 

that speaks directly to the process of their creation. 

“Our pots are mainly 'decorated' or scorched by the 

long snaking flames in the kiln, each pot is always 

unique with its own special qualities,” says John. 

The present three-chambered kiln was designed by 

John Leach following a traditional Japanese climbing 

kiln and was built by the pottery team in 1998. It takes 

about 37 hours to fire the kiln at Muchelney, while 

three extra helpers take shifts to stoke the kiln with offcut 

wood and monitor the temperature. The pottery 

does around six firings a year and occasionally has 

public kiln openings. 

Working with John are two potters, both of whom 

have been with John for decades. Nick Rees began 

potting in 1972 at the pottery in Muchelney and has 

been with John Leach ever since. Now his daughter 

Rachel also works there, alongside John’s son, 

Benedict. Mark Melbourne completes the team, having 

also trained at John Leach pottery before working in 

West Africa as a VSO volunteer, building kilns, training 

and making pots. It’s clear that building this team has 


een as important for John as building the pottery or the 

kiln itself. “Our pots are made by happy people who care, 

fashioned by hand on the potter's wheel,” he says. 

John’s range of stoneware pots has now been in 

constant production for over 50 years, but, he says, his 

great joy is in creating one-off designs. Some are fired in 

sawdust-filled saggars, producing exciting black pots with 

unpredictable white markings – his ‘Black Mood’ pots - 

while others explore his fascination with antique leather 

bottles, African and early English and American country 

pottery. 

These collectable, signed pots are available in the John 

Leach Gallery, adjacent to the pottery, which opened in 

2003. The beautiful gallery is a light airy space, run by 

John’s wife, and its exhibitions feature the work of local 

and internationally-renowned potters. 

Inspiration for John’s signature pieces comes from a 

variety of sources – travel to Africa, local museum pieces 

“Working with 

John are two 

potters, both 

of whom have 

been with John 

for decades. 

Nick began 

potting in 1972 

at the pottery 

in Muchelney 

and has been 

with John Leach 

ever since” 

and the traditional skills of fellow potters from all over 

the world. But, mostly, explains John, he is inspired by 

what’s around him, including John's Pond - a County 

Wildlife Site (CWS) which John dug in 1988, and is 

home to a wealth of local wildlife, including hundreds of 

dragonflies. Stretching over nine acres and flanked by 

4,000 broad-leafed trees native to the area, the pond 

is an essential part of the fabric of the village, and a 

beautiful secluded place to find inspiration and solitude. 

And John continues to work on restoring and 

developing the pottery too. In 2008, following a 

major restoration of two Grade II Listed buildings - the 

pottery cottage and the old pottery - the John Leach 

Pottery re-opened, and today, the pottery produces all 

its pieces on site, which are then sold in the adjacent 

gallery and shop. Bringing everything together has 

been very important to John, reinforcing the important 

identity of this very British, very local business. 

At the centre of this, of course, are the pots – 

beautifully simple, woodfired stoneware, individually 

handcrafted in classic and friendly, unpretentious 

forms. For John they are as much a part of his family 

business as his wife, children and fellow potters, and 

to hear him talk lovingly about his stoneware is both 

endearing and inspiring. 

In a world where our consumption of ‘things’ has 

reached an all-time high, craftsmen like John remind 

us how special it is to invest in something that you can 

keep for decades and which will become part of the 

fabric of family life. “These pots are reaching out to 

be used,” he says. “And each one has a personality all 

of its own. Warm and toasted by the flame, we like to 

think that the pots become friends for life.” u 


ELLENBOROUGH 

PARK 

This 15th-century manor house is the perfect setting for those looking 

for an idyllic way to holiday and feel at home this Christmas 

Words | Jessica Way 


S 

ITUATED IN THE MIDST of 90 private acres 

of idyllic Cotswold countryside, this indulgent 

15th-century retreat, with lavish bedrooms, 

a serene spa, fine dining, and so much more, 

makes celebrating Christmas in the Cotswolds a 

wonderful and unforgettable holiday treat. 

There’s so much to do both in and around the hotel, 

you can bring all the family with you, and you don’t 

need to worry about your four-legged friends either - as 

there are dog-friendly rooms throughout the hotel, and 

dogs are encouraged to join in festive family fun and 

enjoy their own five-star experience! 

Wake up to views over nearby Cheltenham 

Racecourse in one of their 61 individually designed 

bedrooms and suites, each named after successful 

“Once home 

to the Earl of 

Ellenborough, 

steeped in history, 

The Great Hall, 

built in 1485 is 

spectacular with 

its oak beams, 

stone fireplaces 

and intricate 

stained glass” 

racehorses. Enjoy a Christmas morning swim in the 

hotel’s outdoor heated pool, or grab a pair of Dubarry 

boots or Hunter wellies and venture out to explore the 

beautiful rolling hills of the Cotswold countryside. 

On returning, cosy up by the roaring fire in the Great 

Hall to open gifts or battle it out over a board game or 

celebrate with a glass of champagne in the hotel’s own 

country pub, The Horse Box. 

Once home to the Earl of Ellenborough, steeped 

in history, The Great Hall, built in 1485 is spectacular 

with its oak beams, stone fireplaces and intricate 

stained glass. Don’t miss the cosy snugs and spiral 

staircases leading up to private balconies above The 

Great Hall, perfect for nestling down and relaxing 

after a festive feast. à 


Afternoon tea is an essential part of the Christmas experience at 

Ellenborough Park; with a festive twist of warm mulled and spiced 

seasonal sweet treats - and you don’t get better than the truly unique 

and spectacular ambience of The Great Hall for crunching into your 

cream cheese and cucumber sandwich. For a more laid back, casual 

dining experience The Horse Box offers a great option - especially for 

families with younger children. 

Back to exploring. For the more adventurous, guests can ride 

through some of the 90 acres on a sled led by a pack of Siberian 

huskies, before warming themselves up by toasting marshmallows 

over a campfire - and if really lucky by cuddling husky pups. Take your 

Christmas decorations to another level this year by creating a bespoke 

wreath. Ellenborough Park is running wreath-making masterclasses 

in late November and early December with local florist Donna Beaver, 

helping you create a wonderful wreath to display proudly at home. 

Grab a tipple from their stunning blue bar that boasts an impressive 

cocktail menu and reflect on the day with a mulled wine or glass of 

Ellenborough Park gin and tonic, carefully curated by the nearby 

Cotswold Distillery. For those looking for more traditional winter 

experiences, various regal pursuits including archery, clay pigeon 

shooting, Land Rover off-roading or duck herding are also available on 

request. If you can bring yourself to leave the estate, Ellenborough Park 

is just a short hop from the centre of Cheltenham where you can enjoy a 

glass of warming Glühwein while the children ogle the goodies on the 

stalls at the Christmas Market on the Promenade. 

Christmas just wouldn’t be Christmas without a trip to the panto, 

so you could make it even more special with tickets to the Everyman 

Theatre to watch Jack & the Beanstalk or A Christmas Carol. 

No cooking, no housework, at Ellenborough Park you can spend all 

of your time as the Lord or Lady of the manor, revelling in 500 years of 

history admiring the historic architecture and magnificent backdrop. 

Now that's something worth adding to your Christmas wish-list u 

Luxurious 3-day packages from £659 per room per night or for exclusive, 

unlimited access prices starting from £12,000, ellenboroughpark.com 


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THE ART OF GREA T HOSPIT ALITY

LEEDS CASTLE 

Leeds Castle, a fairytale estate in Kent, brings its 900th birthday 

celebrations to a grand finale with some magical plans for the festive season 

Words | Emma O’Reilly 

THEY LIKE THEIR CHRISTMASES quirky 

at Leeds Castle, which claims six medieval 

queens and King Henry VIII amongst its 

former owners. Not for them the usual tired 

Santa’s Grotto and blingy fairy lights. The aim is for 

something unusual, enchanting and ethereal…which 

they are pulling off with aplomb in this, their 900th 

birthday year. 

The theme is ‘Magical Birds and Festive Feathers’, 

playing on the castle’s long connection with all things 

ornithological. The Leeds Castle crest features two 

sleek black swans and, even before arriving at the 

castle itself, beautifully sited on two islands in a lake, 

guests wind through glorious gardens where peacocks 

strut past waters teeming with ducks, egrets, geese… 

and some of the aforementioned black swans. 

Kirsty Harris , designer of this year’s Christmas 

decorations, picked up on the theme early on when 

she visited. She has let her imagination run wild 

“It’s all rather 

enchanting – 

and adds to 

the already 

bewitching 

atmosphere 

over the festive 

season, when 

lights twinkle 

and fires are 

lit all over the 

castle.” 

to create a winter wonderland which begins in the 

Queen’s Bedroom – where visitors enter a forest full 

of owls, escaped from their cages to fly free in the 

trees. There’s a cheeky robin on a spade in a glittering 

snow-covered garden in the Queen’s Bathroom and 

four and twenty blackbirds bursting out of a pie on 

the banqueting table in the Queen’s Gallery. Kirsty’s 

favourite design is a magpies’ nest in Lady Baillie’s 

Bathroom, filled with snatched gems and trinkets, 

befitting the former royal location. 

‘I want to involve the public as much as possible, 

too’, says Kirsty, ‘so I have made some of the pieces 

interactive. One of the installations has winged doves 

fluttering from a Christmas present. Further paper doves 

are provided, on which visitors can write their Christmas 

wishes and hang them on any one of the four Christmas 

trees in the Seminar Room. There are hats and feather 

boas to try on in Lady Baillie’s Bathroom, too. 

Some of the decorations are more subtle and 

sculptural, such as the intertwined black and white 


swans atop the giant tree beside the Grand Staircase or abstract, like 

the cluster of Christmas cards that swoop from a mantelpiece into 

the shape of a Christmas tree in the Catherine of Aragon room. It’s all 

rather enchanting – and adds to the already bewitching atmosphere 

over the festive season, when lights twinkle and fires are lit all over the 

castle. 

Magical Birds and Festive Feathers is on from 23 November until 1 

January, and is the culmination of events that have been taking place 

all year long for this special birthday. 

Leeds Castle has had many transformations during its long history, 

beginning life as a Norman Stronghold before becoming a royal castle, 

then a magnificent Tudor Palace, greatly embellished by King Henry 

VIII for his Queen, Catherine of Aragon. 

The castle then moved into private ownership (gifted by the 

king) and has lived through Jacobean and Georgian incarnations. 

The timelines are displayed for visitors but the public rooms mainly 

concentrate on the Medieval and Tudor periods – the Henry VIII 

Banqueting Hall is particularly impressive - as well as the time of 

heiress and socialite Lady Olive Baillie, who lived here from the 1920s. 

She was famed for her extravagant house parties when royalty, 

politicians, film stars and authors would regularly descend, Charlie 

Chaplin and Noel Coward amongst them. She certainly knew how to 

live in style and luxury, judging by her bathroom with its underfloor 

heating and walls lined with Russian onyx. Apparently she also had 

England’s first wave machine in the garden! What is special about 

Leeds Castle is that it feels like a living house, rather than a cold 

‘showpiece’ castle. Indeed, visitors still stay for occasional house 

parties, weddings and the like. We can’t imagine a more wonderful 

place to celebrate! u 

Rooms start from £90 per night, leeds-castle.com 


THYME MANOR 

Nestled amidst the green of the Cotswold landscape, in one of the area's 

beautiful villages, the Thyme Manor estate is a country retreat like no other 

Words | Emma Johnson 


WAKING UP AT THYME is like waking 

up in another time altogether. The 

simple quiet of birdsong, the sound 

of the gardener walking past on the 

crunching gravel, the smell of blooming roses through 

the bedroom window - if it sounds like a bucolic idyll, 

that’s because it is. 

Opened in 2002 as a cookery school, housed in a 

beautiful tithe barn next door to owner Caryn Hibbert’s 

home, Southrop Manor, Thyme is now described as ‘a 

village within a village’ – a collection of houses, barns, 

lodges, gardens, a pub and a restaurant, that has 

slowly, and sensitively, evolved over the years. 

Following the opening of the cookery school, 

Hibbert bought the village pub, The Swan, before 

“The simple 

quiet of 

birdsong... the 

smell of blooming 

roses through 

the bedroom 

window - if it 

sounds like a 

bucolic idyll, 

that’s because 

it is.” 

adding several cottages, an old farmhouse and the 

old village rectory to Thyme’s portfolio – creating up to 

31 bedrooms and several self-contained cottages for 

accommodation. Next door to the original tithe barn, 

which still houses the cookery school and also functions 

as an event space for intimate weddings or parties, 

another farm outbuilding has been loving restored, 

creating The Ox Barn, a new restaurant for Thyme 

which opened earlier this year. Elsewhere there is the 

imaginatively titled The Baa – serving classic cocktails 

with views across the courtyard and olive garden 

beyond. 

All this is set within a 150-acre working farm, 

housing hens, quail, geese and rare-breed sheep and 

pigs, and extensive gardens managed by celebrity à 


gardener Bunny Guiness, which all provide produce and provisions for 

the kitchens, pub restaurant and cookery school, as well as flowers and 

cuttings for Thyme’s beautiful interior spaces, created with Hibbert by 

interior designer Roger Hall. 

Hibbert and Hall’s expert eye is everywhere at Thyme. Décor is 

country chic, but bold and creative too – colour, prints, antiques, 

decorative mirrors and elaborate chandeliers meet wellington boots, 

reclaimed wooden tables, vintage vases and potted herbs. We stayed 

in the old rectory, renamed The Lodge, a beautiful, warm stone 

house with eight gorgeous bedrooms, shaded by the striking Cedar 

of Lebanon tree on the lawn in front, from which one of the most 

beautiful bedrooms here takes its name. The large Cedar of Lebanon 

room features a stunning French bateau bath, from which you can 

indulgently soak away an afternoon, gazing out at the countryside and 

perfect lawns beyond. 

Further down the garden is the Meadow Spa – which opened last 

year – and is truly reflective of its natural, countryside surrounds. 

Encompassing an old greenhouse and a couple of smaller stone 

cottages, and painted in a soothing grass green, the spa features the 

most beautiful outdoor pool filled with natural spring water, a hot 

house, a yoga studio and treatments by probiotic British skincare 

brand Aurelia. 

Staying here, it is easy to completely relax. The quiet surrounds of 

the village and the field beyond seem to cloak Thyme in a permanent 

state of calm – time ceases to matter, the world weariness seeps 

away, aches and pains are soothed and rested, your mind is still and 

contented. It is a rare thing to find a place that can do all these things 

– but Thyme does it by being entirely a product of its surroundings. 

Created and designed with nature in mind, it brings the best of the 

countryside into every part of its day to day life, from food to flora - a 

unique haven in a magical place u 

Rooms start from £250 per night, thyme.co.uk 


Author Contribution 

LIGHTHOUSE 

TRAIL 

Have you ever dreamed of 

travelling the British coastline 

but not known where to begin? 

Sarah Kerr, author of The British 

Lighthouse Trail, shows us how to 

do so – one lighthouse at a time 

The British 

Lighthouse Trail, 

a regional guide 

by Sarah Kerr. 

Priced £18.99 

whittles 

publishing.com 

WALES 

South Stack, Anglesey 

Surely one of Anglesey’s most popular day trips 

has to be South Stack lighthouse. Housing a 

Visitor Centre with guided tours of the tower, the 

lighthouse is located on a small island linked by 

a bridge. The views from the top of the 28-metre 

1809 tower are panoramic to say the least. 

Reaching the lighthouse is no mean feat though 

as there are 400 steps weaving down the cliff, 

which make for a rather strenuous return journey. 

The only book of its 

kind to provide a 

comprehensive listing 

of all lighthouses in 

Scotland, England, 

Wales, Northern 

Ireland, the Isle of Man 

and Channel Islands 

The Smalls, Pembrokeshire 

Almost 35 kilometres out to sea off St David’s 

Head is the 41-metre lighthouse known as The 

Smalls. Introduced in 1861 and designed by Trinity 

House architect James Walker, this remote wavewashed 

tower is not the easiest to visit. Getting a 

closer look is possible though using boat operators 

in the area who do run occasional, and very 

weather-dependent, trips. It is well worth the effort 

and just one of a number of offshore lighthouses 

dotted around our coastline. 


ISLE OF MAN 

Point of Ayre 

The Isle of Man attracts many visitors at 

certain times of the year, but few recognise 

its value as a location for spotting 

some fantastic lighthouses. While Point 

of Ayre at the northern tip lacks the 

dramatic scenery of many of the bigger 

lighthouses on the island, it has two, very 

different towers to take in. The 30-metre 

tower with its distinctive red bands was 

the creation of Robert Stevenson - the 

first of the famous “Lighthouse Stevensons” 

dynasty - and was first lit in 1819. 

Closer to the shore, on the shingle beach, 

can be found a lighthouse known as The 

Winkie. This tower, which is considerably 

smaller than its older counterpart, was 

introduced 70 years later and shone until 

2010 when the light was discontinued. 

à 


SCOTLAND 

Muckle Flugga, Shetland 

The island of Muckle Flugga off the 

northern tip of Unst in Shetland, is 

home to the most northerly lighthouse 

in Britain. In fact, the island itself is 

only beaten by its neighbour Out Stack 

as the most northerly piece of land in 

the British Isles. Visible only from Saxa 

Vord or from the Hermaness headland, 

Muckle Flugga is not an island you 

would want to attempt to build on, and 

yet that is exactly what the Northern 

Lighthouse Board did in 1854. The 

20-metre tower that stands today, 

designed by David and Thomas 

Stevenson, was built in 1857, to 

replace the original tower. 

Ornsay, Skye 

Another David and Thomas 

Stevenson design is the 19-metre 

Ornsay lighthouse, which sits on the 

small island of Eilean Sionnach off 

the east coast of Skye. Accessible 

on foot only at low tide via Ornsay 

island, the views from this tower 

are outstanding at any time of 

year. With the stunning mountains 

on the Knoydart peninsula as the 

backdrop, there is a lot to love 

about this place. It is also possible 

to stay in the old lighthouse keeper’s 

cottage here if superb views and 

being cut off from civilisation when 

the tide comes in appeal to you. 

NORTHERN 

IRELAND 

Rathlin West, Rathlin Island 

Perched high on the cliffs at 

Bull Point, the most westerly 

tip of Rathlin Island, off 

the Northern Irish coast, is 

Rathlin West lighthouse. This 

incredible feat of engineering 

stands out not only for the 

awe-inspiring views that 

surround it, but also for 

being the only “upside down” 

lighthouse in the British Isles. 

Open to the public during the 

summer months as an RSPB 

Seabird Centre, this 18-metre 

tower designed by Charles 

William Scott is entered from 

the top of the tower. One must 

then descend the 98 steps 

down to see the lantern with 

its red tinted light at the very 

bottom. A real treat to visit 

and filled with lighthouserelated 

displays too. à 


Cosy Up Offer 

COSY UP WITH A STAY AT BOVEY CASTLE 

Our winter offer includes a Veuve Clicquot Kir Royale Champagne cocktail, 

a two course dinner in Smith’s Brasserie, sumptuous overnight accommodation 

and a full English breakfast the following morning. 

From £239.00 per room per night (based on two people sharing a classic room) 

Offer valid until 31/03/20 

Subject to availability. T&C’s apply. Minimum stay 2 nights. 

Get Muddy this Winter 

AS GOOD IN THE WINTER AS IN THE SUMMER! 

Visit Bovey Castle on Dartmoor National Park over the winter and ‘Get Muddy’ 

with our onsite activities! What’s more we have some special offers on selected 

activities, ideal for families, friends and couples. 

TO BOOK CALL RESERVATIONS ON 01647 445007 

BOVEY CASTLE, NORTH BOVEY, DARTMOOR NATIONAL PARK, DEVON, TQ13 8RE 

WWW.BOVEYCASTLE.COM 

22_11_19 -BC.indd 1 22/11/2019 15:32

Winter is Coming... 

Snuggle-up with us at The Fermain Valley Hotel

ENGLAND 

Lundy, North Devon 

The island of Lundy offers far more in 

lighthouse terms than you would expect. 

The island tells the common story of an old 

lighthouse – in this case the old 29-metre 

1820 tower – built in a prominent position 

only for it to be discovered that it was so 

often shrouded in fog. In Lundy’s case this 

resulted in two more towers being built at 

the most northerly and southerly points 

in 1897. The island has a lot to offer both 

day-trippers and those on a short break, 

with passenger ferries operating from 

Ilfracombe and Bideford. 

CHANNEL ISLANDS 

La Corbière, Jersey 

There is something special about lighthouses that are only accessible 

at low tide and Corbiere lighthouse off the west coast of Jersey is 

certainly that. Designed by Sir John Coode and first lit in 1874, 

Corbiere lighthouse itself stands at 19 metres tall, but its prominence 

on top of the highest section of rock gives it a much more elevated 

position. It’s a popular spot to visit so be warned that you will be 

lucky to capture any people-free photographs from your visit. 

Flamborough Head, Yorkshire 

The 27-metre tall lighthouse at 

Flamborough Head stands majestically 

over some astounding coastal geology. 

With its chalk coves, arch and stack, 

it’s the perfect place to while away a 

few hours. The lighthouse, designed by 

Trinity House architect Samuel Wyatt, 

was first lit in 1806 and now houses a 

Visitor Centre with the opportunity to 

join a guided tour up the tower, giving 

you an elevated view of the glorious 

landscape below. Be sure to look out 

for the old chalk lighthouse on the 

approach road. Built in 1669, this tower is 

one of the oldest lighthouses in Britain. u 


48 

hours in 

BATH 

A walk around the city of Bath is to follow in Jane Austen’s footsteps knowing 

that Roman centurions trod these streets many centuries before her 

Words | Adrian Mourby 


▶ 

▶ 

BATH IS UNIQUE AMONG British cities, having been 

recognised by UNESCO both for its Roman remains and 

as the most complete Georgian city in the world. 

Built entirely out of honey-coloured local stone, Bath 

is also recognised as a sacred site having been a place of worship 

since pagan times, long before the Romans arrived in the first 

century AD. These three elements come together in the busy 

piazza known today as Abbey Churchyard. 

Here, surrounded by buskers and street artists, the 

eighteenth-century Pump Room is built alongside the most 

complete Roman bathing complex in Britain, which was in turn 

built over the sacred shrine to the pagan goddess, Sulis. 

Three hot springs bubble to the surface in this low-lying part 

of Bath. The water – over a million litres of it a day - emerges 

at a temperature of 46C, after having been underground for 

centuries. Still no one knows exactly how deep into the Earth this 

water originally plunged before emerging in the centre of Bath. 

The well-attested healing properties of Bath’s springs made 

it a place of religious, medical and finally social pilgrimage 

for thousands of years. This city owes its very existence to hot, 

healing waters. 

Starting outside the Pump Room walk through the 

neoclassical arcade that leads to Bath Street. Ahead of you 

appears the Cross Bath, a small, open air eighteenth-century 

bathing pool that was restored and reopened in the 1990s. 

Opposite it looms the Thermae Spa, a huge modern 

complex on five levels. Whereas the Cross Bath can only 

accommodate a dozen bathers, up to a thousand visitors a day 

queue up for the Thermae Spa. Its rooftop pool, known as the 

New Royal Bath has one of the best views across the city. 

These days this area is known as the Spa Quarter. It 

contains a number of picturesque old hospitals and small 

churches, and Bath’s Little Theatre. Passing between the 

theatre and the St John the Baptist Alms House, turn right into 

Westgate and head up hill towards the Theatre Royal. 

On the corner ahead of you sits a Thai restaurant in a 

delightful semi-circular building with a lead-roofed balcony. 

Behind it a series of wine bars are tucked inside a low Georgian 

colonnade. Bath is full of eighteenth-century buildings 

repurposed for the twenty-first century. 

The theatre itself was founded in 1805 and saw performances 

by great actors of the English stage like Edmund Kean and Mrs 

Jordan, the mistress of King William IV. 

The main entrance and lobby we see today is a Victorian 

addition. Walking round the corner into Beaufort Square 

reveals the theatre’s entrance as Jane Austen knew it when she 

lived in nearby Trim Street. It’s a much more impressive facade 

with just two doors opening into the large, quiet square. 

Continuing up Barton Street we come to Gay Street, which 

faces onto Queen Square. Enter the park in the centre of the 

square and walk to the obelisk, which was erected by Beau à 


▶ 

▶ 

EDITOR'S HIGHLIGHT 

DON'T MISS 

Nash, the Master of Ceremonies in 

Georgian Bath, in honour of Frederick, 

Prince of Wales. This square was the 

first new development of Bath by John 

Wood the Elder, who designed most 

of the city’s best buildings including 

the Circus and Royal Crescent. Wood’s 

ambition to make his hometown the 

most beautiful city in Britain were 

continually thwarted by local aldermen 

so he ended up building his neoclassical 

streets and squares in fields outside the 

old city walls on land owned by one 

Robert Gay. 

Leave the park via Gay Street itself 

and climb the hill to the Jane Austen 

Museum at No 40. The Austens lived 

in Bath from 1801 to 1806 and Jane set 

scenes from two of her novels in the city. 

Gay Street is very steep indeed – you 

are climbing a hill - and each house 

sits on its own step, like a staircase. At 

the top however the ground levels out 

for the Circus, which was one of John 

Wood’s boldest creations. Houses here 

are arranged in a circle surrounding 

a huge tree. Wood didn’t design the 

houses themselves, just this harmonious 

façade. Individual entrepreneurs in 

effect bought the doors, windows and 

roofline created by Wood, and built 

houses of their choice behind. 

From the Circus, Brock Street leads 

west to the most famous of John Wood’s 

developments, the Royal Crescent 

which, like the Circus, was actually 

completed by his son John Wood the 

Younger after the old man’s death in 

1754. In a massive graceful arc 30 town 

houses look out over the city. No1 Royal 

Crescent is now a museum showing how 

life was lived in Georgian Bath while No 

16, once owned by a son of King George 

III, is now the Royal Crescent Hotel. 

Nothing in the design of the sweeping 

neoclassical façade was allowed to 

impinge on its visual impact, so much 

so that all the downpipes that drain the 

long roof are hidden inside the walls 

rather than visible to passersby. 

The Royal Crescent once looked out 

on countryside, now it looks over the 

modern city of Bath but it is a perfect 

place from which to gain an overview of 

this unique and beautiful city. u 

Grayson Perry: The Pre-Therapy 

Years at The Holburne Museum 

24 January to 25 May 2020 

Built as a club house for residents of Great 

Pulteney Street, The Holburne is now home to 

a collection of Old Masters and silverware, 

and runs an exciting programme of events 

throughout the year. One of the most 

eagerly anticipated shows is that of English 

contemporary artist, Grayson Perry: The 

Pre-Therapy Years - known for his ceramic 

vases, tapestries and cross-dressing. The 

show includes Perry’s early works, pieces 

from the artist’s own collection and many 

works not even seen publicly before. 

Great Pulteney Street, 01225 388569 

holburne.org 

MUST VISIT 

The Roman Baths 

This superb underground museum of life 

in Roman Bath is actually housed in the 

precincts of the original bath complex. 

Stall Street, 01225 477785 

romanbaths.co.uk 

No 1 Royal Crescent 

Learn how life was lived at the top of Bath 

society in this detailed recreation of one of 

its grandest eighteenth century townhouses. 

1 Royal Crescent, 01225 428126 

no1royalcrescent.org.uk 

Thermae Bath Spa 

Bringing Bath’s story up to date, this modern 

thermal bathing experience has a wonderful 

open air rooftop pool, novelty saunas and 

busy treatment rooms. 

Hot Bath Street, 01225 331234 

thermaebathspa.com 


WHERE TO EAT 

The Pump Room 

Built in the eighteenth century as a meeting 

place for visitors to Bath, the Pump Room is 

still the place to drink the waters as well as 

eat breakfast, lunch and tea. The afternoon 

tea here is a Bath tradition as is the three 

person orchestra, the longest established 

ensemble of its kind in Europe. 

13 Abbey Churchyard 01225 444477 

thepumproombath.co.uk 

The Circus 

Tucked round the corner from the famous 

Circus, this small family-run café doubles as 

a sophisticated, candlelit dining room in the 

evenings. Local sourcing and modern takes on 

traditional British cuisine have made Alison 

Goldman’s dining room a must for foodies. 

34 Brock Street, 01225 466020 

thecircusrestaurant.co.uk 

Ponte Vecchio 

This small, modern Italian restaurant 

has a few, much coveted outdoor tables 

overlooking Bath’s famous Pulteney Bridge. 

The bridge itself links fashionable Great 

Pulteney Street to the city and the food is as 

good as the view. 

Spring Gardens Road, 01225 424800 

pontevecchiobath.com 

Savouring Bath 

Sample the city's best independent culinary 

artisans as part of a scheduled walking tour, or 

as a private experience. Each culinary adventure 

lasts around three hours and includes a meal's 

worth of food samples, introducing you to the 

best of the city's food scene. 

Bath city centre, 01225 425843 

savouringbath.com 

WHERE TO STAY 

See article 

on next 

page 

The Royal Crescent Hotel 

Fashioned out of two houses at the centre 

of John Wood’s grandest achievement, The 

Royal Crescent opens up at its rear into a 

huge garden with spa and restaurant. From 

here it is easy to see how the uniformity of 

the façade stands in complete contrast to the 

highly individual houses built behind it. 

16 Royal Crescent, 01225 823333 

royalcrescent.co.uk 

The Gainsborough Bath Spa 

This recent conversion of a Victorian 

hospital, built for taking the waters, is now 

a 99-room hotel close to the Pump Room 

and Roman Baths. The hotel spa has its own 

source of thermal spring water and its bar is 

one of the best in the city for cocktails. 

Beau Street, 01225 358888 

thegainsboroughbathspa.co.uk 

No. 15 Great Pulteney 

A trendy, dramatically decorated hotel in 

what became late eighteenth-century Bath’s 

splendid new development across the river 

Avon. In Jane Austen’s day this broad street 

leading east across Pulteney Bridge was 

where the wealthiest visitors stayed. 

15 Great Pulteney Street, 01225 807015 

no15greatpulteney.co.uk 


Hotel Review 

THE ROYAL 

CRESCENT 

There are many hotels in the centre of Bath, a popular world heritage spa 

city, attracting almost five million visitors every year, but it could be claimed, 

none quite as grand and spectacular as The Royal Crescent Hotel and Spa 

Words | Jessica Way 

THIS MAGNIFICENT 5-STAR HOTEL occupies two central 

townhouses of Bath's architectural masterpiece - the 

Georgian crescent. This Bath stone curve houses thirty 

dwellings, all with a uniform Palladian design to the principal 

facade. Located in a quiet residential area with no passing traffic, it is far 

enough from the hustle and bustle of town that it feels almost rural. 

There’s an immaculate semi-circular lawn to the front of the building, 

leading to the north entrance of Royal Victoria Park, and an acre of 

gardens exclusively for guests use at the rear. 

The quiet, peaceful location is however just a 10-15 minute stroll from 

the heart of the city where you will find the world-famous attractions 

including The Roman Baths, Bath Abbey and Thermae Bath Spa. You 

are also minutes from the most fashionable shopping street of Bath, 

Milsom Street, lined with charming shops and restaurants. 

If you are planning a stay around Christmas time, this location 

couldn't be more perfect, as for the first time in its 18-year history, the 

Bath Christmas Market now lines Milsom Street with twinkling chalets 

of designers showcasing their artisan gifts. Having launched last year, 

it was deemed to be a ‘roaring success’, and confirmed they will be 

repeating the fun in 2019. I was lucky enough to be there last year for the 

first day of the markets. Arriving in Bath early with the intention to do 

some of my Christmas shopping, I took a short taxi ride from the train 

station to the hotel, left my luggage with the extremely friendly concierge 

team, and then wandered freely into town; it was fabulous. Be sure not 

to miss Milsom Place, a pretty courtyard with one-off designer shops and 

great cafés and restaurants. And just across the road from Milsom Place 

is Jolly’s, a House of Fraser store open since 1831 and one of the world’s 

oldest department stores. 

On my way back to the hotel I stopped in at No.1 Royal Crescent, 

the first house in the curve to be built. Today it’s a museum decorated 

and furnished as it would have been during the period 1776-1796. For a 

reasonable entry price, (£10.60) you are free to explore the bedrooms, 

reception rooms, kitchen and outdoor terrace in your own time, 

imagining what life was like for Bath’s fashionable residents. 

The visit certainly got me into the spirit of the occasion, with such a 

magnificent hotel awaiting my arrival, and, numerous stylish shopping 

bags over my arms, I checked in imagining myself as Elizabeth Bennet 

from Jane Austen’s Pride and Prejudice. With a prestigious history that 

spans more than 250 years, the hotel feels similar to the experience of 

a museum, only much larger and more glamorous than the one I had 

just visited. Quite incredibly The Royal Crescent Hotel is one of the few 

landmark buildings in the world you can sleep in, so quite special then - 

and certainly no ordinary hotel. 

My name is handwritten on the bedroom door, one of their Master 

Suites, (The Duke of York) and it is absolutely breathtaking, I am lost 

for words by the beauty (and size) of this room. The chandelier hanging 

from the ornate high ceiling is utterly exquisite, there are three floor-toceiling 

sash windows, light flooding in, with views across the elegant 

Royal Crescent Lawn and beyond. Cream and green colour tones warm 

the room, there’s an opulent four-poster bed, silk cushions, oil paintings, 

and sitting/lounge area, combining contemporary style with the 

18th-century charm. The beige-marble double-everything bathroom is 

equally as extravagant and lavish. 

The porter must be used to seeing this type of reaction from delighted 

guests. He tells me that every one of their 45 bedrooms has a completely 

unique design and décor. “This room though is my personal favourite,” 

he says. Usually, I think this is something hotel staff say to all their guests, 

to make them feel special - but on this occasion, I believe him. 


©COLIN HAWKINS 

“Quite incredibly The Royal Crescent Hotel is one of the few landmark buildings in 

the world you can sleep in, so pretty special then - certainly no ordinary hotel.” 

With four further Georgian buildings including a spa garden yet to 

explore in the back of the garden I was quick to put down my shopping 

bags. Ready for a blissful afternoon, I sauntered back down the 

curvaceous staircase in fluffy white robe and slippers. For such a grand 

hotel it is completely unstuffy, you are made to feel more than welcome. 

I would compare the experience to be more like staying with family than 

being a hotel guest. Perhaps this is the reason they have so much loyalty 

from repeat visitors, who come here to stay from across the globe. 

The spacious Mediterranean-styled walled gardens are such an 

unexpected delight for a city-centre location like this - a perfect romantic 

setting for an indulgent afternoon tea - and understandably popular 

for weddings too (there’s a separate Wedding Garden). High stone 

walls are covered in honeysuckle and roses, secluded seating areas 

are surrounded by mature trees, with delightful floral aromas floating 

through the air. 

Then there’s the 12-metre heated relaxation pool, vitality pool 

with massage jets, sauna and steam rooms, six treatment rooms and 

complimentary herbal teas to see you well and truly pampered. You are 

welcome to complete the experience with a glass of Champagne in the 

holistic haven of the Taittinger Spa Garden, open throughout the seasons. 

The contemporary-style Montagu Bar & Champagne Lounge is 

a great option when you’re peckish for lunch or light-bites, serving 

British classics including a Fish and Chip Basket or Royal Crescent Club 

Sandwich. Diners also enjoy this space as a place to enjoy pre-dinner 

drinks and cocktails before heading into the main restaurant, Dower 

House, and when it’s warm outside seating options include al-fresco 

dining in the beautiful gardens. 

David Campbell, Executive Head Chef has been at the hotel for seven 

years, overseeing a sustainable and seasonal award-winning menu with 

elaborately presented dishes. I ordered from the A La Carte menu opting 

for Slow Cooked Duck Egg with Morteau Sausage and Roasted Sea 

Bass with Hay Baked Potato - the attentive service, gourmet ingredients 

and the gracious atmosphere was the perfect ending to my whimsical day. 

The attention-to-detail, from complimentary valet parking to 

bedrooms being turned down so beautifully in the evening - or the 

unrivalled knowledge of Bath from the concierge team in planning your 

day, to providing you with a picnic for the journey stand this hotel apart. 

This is a true destination hotel - and what a destination Bath is. u 

Rooms start from £350 per night, royalcrescent.co.uk 

To book a stay at any of Pride of Britain Hotels’ collection of 50 luxury 

properties, contact Pride of Britain Hotels (0800 089 3929). 

prideofbritainhotels.com 


FINDING 

Located in a beautiful 18th century Sussex country house set in 15 acres of lush 

countryside, Simply Healing is a luxury detox retreat offering beautiful woodland 

walks, nature and fresh air alongside treatments, therapies and juice plans 


Words | Jessica Way

A 

HEALTHY GUT EQUALS 

a healthy mind. They're 

connected - it's simple, look 

after your gut - and it will look 

after you”, explains Kate. It’s day one and 

I’m having my introductory consultation 

with one of the integral members of the 

small, but fullhearted, team. 

We're sitting in the consultation room 

of a large and characterful country 

home (come wellness business), located 

in rural Sussex, named Alliblasters - an 

old French term for crossbowman, 

believed to stem back to the Normans 

and named after William Le Alblaster 

(1279). This impressive property is 

owned and family-run by Vivien Kay and 

daughter Caroline, who together with 

the help from Kate and Carolyn, (and 

occasionally dog Poppy) have spent a 

decade mastering their secret winning 

formula that results in guests dancing 

their way out of the door by the end of 

their detox plan. 

I’ve not been here long, just enough 

time to check-in and to see my room (a 

deluxe double), suitably equipped and 

tastefully furnished, and I’m surprised 

by just how homely it feels - the house is 

elegantly decorated, full of colour and 

character, with high ceilings and a grand 

staircase. Photos, books, DVDs and 

elegant travel ornaments and souvenirs, 

line the book shelves and table tops in 

every room and corridor, giving guests 

an insight into Vivien’s intrepid worldtravels. 

She is one of a family-generation 

of healers and herbalists, and has worked 

with shaman in countries including Peru, 

Canada, Mexico and Egypt. 

Kate takes my blood, weighs me, and 

chats to me generally about my physical 

and mental wellbeing. People come here 

for many different reasons; it’s a celebrity 

favourite for keeping the weight off, 

others come for a general cleanse, some 

more for the emotional or shamanic 

healing therapies. I am here just in search 

of a kick-start to a healthier lifestyle. 

It’s simple, or at least that’s what I 

thought - a few spa treatments, some 

juice, cut out my caffeine and sugar 

intake, what could be so hard about 

that? Other than owning a Nutri-bullet I 

know very little about the detox journey 

I am about to take. I head back to my 

room with my treatment itinerary in 

hand, keen to research more into Colonic 

Hydrotherapy and Manual Lymphatic 

Drainage. 

I make my way down to the lounge 

before my first treatment; Outer Glow 

Body Scrub. It is easy to relax here. 

However, I am still struggling to allow 

myself to. As I am sure most of you will 

relate to, I’m so used to being on-thego, 

juggling both family and work life, 

deadlines, meetings, emails (mostly 

coffee-fuelled), that I am feeling guilty, 

and slightly uneasy, at doing so little. 

I look out of the window and it helps, 

the uninterrupted views of the South 

Downs and beautifully kept English 

gardens are a world away from my usual 

daily routines. Guests are asked to refrain 

from using their phones, laptops and 

other devices in guest areas, (although 

there’s wifi in the bedrooms) and this 

'out of sight out of mind' digital-detox 

approach doesn’t take long to have a 

positive effect. 

Therapist Kate works wonders on 

me - feeling much more relaxed I head to 

the dining room wrapped up in my fluffy 

dressing gown and slippers ready to meet 

the other guests and enjoy a fresh juice. 

I am in great company. There’s a 

scientist, musician, doctor, actor and 

owner of a top London talent agency. 

We hit it off, there’s lots of laughter and 

many share their stories having been 

here several times before. à 


There is around a 70% visitor return rate here, so they must be doing 

something right. 

Vivien joins in the conversations and takes the opportunity to tell 

us about her latest venture - restoring antique chairs into reimagined 

vintage masterpieces. I had already spotted a few finished gems 

dotted around the house, each design unique with exquisite 

colourful fabrics. Vivien was enjoying naming them appropriately, 

Daisy, Purple Star and Sunshine, and tagged, we could see, many 

were already sold. (see vintagechairsreimagined.com) 

Clearly Vivien is a lady of multi-talents, passionate and positive, 

with a warm caring aura that permeates her home. 

In the evening we gather in the lounge for a group-meditation 

session, the open fire roaring, throws, blankets and soft cushions 

all-around, we settle, listening to the crackling sound of the wood, 

as Kate’s voice sends us into a sleepy trance. 

The day is finished off with a delicious detox soup and one of the 

best night's sleep of my life. It takes less than 24 hours to really start 

embracing the detox experience as I begin relaxing. I am no longer 

fretting about emails, or checking my phone with every alert, and I 

am acutely aware of a mental shift to a calmer mind, and an ability 

now to properly unwind. 

The following four days adhere to a similar schedule, filled with 

various combinations of fresh juices (apple, pear and ginger being 

my personal favourite) and treatments throughout the day to fill 

our time. The juices are prepared to keep our blood sugar levels 

stable, sometimes served along with Psyllium Husk, Bentonite Clay 

and Cleansing Herbs which take me a little more getting used to. 

We are given five juices a day, soup in the evening and treated 

to a delicious fresh fruit breakfast and salad lunch on the day of 

departure. Everyone agrees how surprising it is that this is enough 

to stop you feeling at all hungry - if anything I actually felt pretty 

full most of the time - but thirsty. It is important to also drink plenty 

of water while detoxing, Vivien suggests at least eight glasses a 

day. Other than a slight headache I felt mostly fine throughout 

the detox, although I was sick several times on day three. This can 

happen but apparently it is not all that common - perhaps because 

I was a first-timer, and I maybe should have better prepared my 

body in the weeks approaching my stay. I carried on though and 

managed to brave it through my colonics, which weren’t anywhere 

near as terrifying as I had feared. 

The house has a lovely conservatory with a running machine, 

and you are advised to make use of the chi machine and toning 

plates which I really got into using (said to be good for shifting the 

toxins out of your body). Each morning we went on an invigorating 

woodland walk too, making the most of our surroundings and 

connecting with nature while we talked - great for bonding time. 

My last treatment was the ‘totally quenched and drenched 

facial’, a Temple Spa special, booked as an extra on one of the 

other house guests recommendation - and I am so pleased I did. 

Carolyn my therapist was fantastic. In fact, all the therapists at the 

retreat were brilliant, but if you can ask for Beatrice for your Detox 

Massage, her hands work magic, and Carolyn for your colonics, 

she will make you feel immediately comfortable and is extremely 

knowledgeable about the detox process, with 20 years' experience. 

I must admit I came into the process a little naïve and I had to 

work much harder for the reward than I imagined I would. But, 

while it wasn’t all plain sailing, it was entirely worth it. You feel 

positive, energised, focussed and I have never felt so emotionally 

well-balanced and ready to face the winter. I am a firm believer 

that you can’t buy happiness, but at Simply Healing you can buy 

the helping hand you need to make you feel happier - and what 

more could you want than that? Simply priceless u 

Simply Healing detox programmes start at £1475 for a 5 Day Juice 

Cleanse Detox Plan. simplyhealingcentre.com 


SPA GUIDE 

N E W - A G E L U X U R Y 

Escape to the countryside, discover soporific soothing in subterranean labyrinths or 

invigorate the mind with fire and ice treatments by the ocean… a new era of Zen is upon us 

SOUTH LODGE 

HOTEL & SPA 

The newest of our top 10 list of new-age luxury 

spas, South Lodge Hotel, West Sussex, launched 

its impressive spa in March this year with high 

anticipation and much ambition - and they’ve firmly 

delivered, both on expectation and promise. It’s a 

seriously sleek, modern, immaculately polished spa - a 

luxury ‘destination’, whether staying as a guest at the hotel 

or frequenting as a day-visitor. 

The contemporary facilities, utilising the beautifully 

designed indoor and outdoor spaces, have been crafted with 

BRITISH 

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▶ 

perfect precision, together with the state-of-the-art appliances, 

including top-of-the-range Dyson hairdryers, and their very own 

collection of bespoke products, ‘The Spa’, created exclusively 

for The Spa at South Lodge and sister-property, The Spa at 

Pennyhill Park, (both are part of Exclusive Hotels) it seems 

there’s been no expense (of the £15 million invested) spared. 

Arguably the most impressive, and certainly the most 

unique, is their completely natural, 18m long heated wild 

swimming pool. Already very popular in Austria and Germany, 

this is a concept that is fast becoming fashionable here in this 

country, although the one at South Lodge is said to be the UK's 

first ‘heated’ natural swim pond. The reduced nutrients prevent 

algae from growing and keep the water clear. Experience a dip 


EDITOR'S HIGHLIGHTS 

STAYING OVERNIGHT 

AT SOUTH LODGE 

at its best after a session in the sauna - it’s glacial at first, but soon gets you feeling 

wonderfully refreshed and energised. 

The indoor infinity pool is especially remarkable for how it has been designed to 

bring the outside in – you are inside but still feel surrounded by the natural contours 

of the landscape. It’s invigorating and does absolute wonders for the mind - even 

before swimming any lengths. Such an incredible space - and if I didn’t live quite so 

far away I would be enquiring about membership based on this pool alone. 

Then there’s the 14 nature-themed treatment rooms, nail bar and pedicure 

suite, thermal suite with infused sauna, marble-lined salt steam, jasmine herbal 

steam rooms - and a multi-level terraced sun deck and fabulous hydrotherapy pool 

outdoors. 

When hunger kicks in, the Botanica restaurant is open to serve brunch, lunch 

or dinner - with scenic views and extensive alfresco dining. Head Chef Jonathan 

Spiers draws on the South Downs as a larder for fresh and seasonal ingredients 

- try their buttermilk pancake with berry compote and maple syrup, or BBQ 

courgette with pumpkin butter and lemon yoghurt. 

And if you can't quite pull yourself away from the poolside, there’s The 

Watershed, providing a refreshing range of drinks, alongside some tasty treats 

and light bites, including gelato and fresh juices - delicious. u 

The Earle of Athlone Suite 

This is just one of South Lodge's indivdually 

designed 89 bedrooms - with a luxurious 

free standing bath and spectacular views 

out to their 93 acres of gardens, lakes and 

parkland and across to the South Downs. 

Outdoor Activities 

Borrow one of their mountain bikes or play 

a round of croquet on the lawn - that's if 

you can pull yourself away from the spa! 

The Cellar 

One for the adults... previously hidden 

from view, the original subterranean 

Victorian cellar has been fabulously 

restored, featuring a large tasting table. 

Each day there's a selection of 16 wines 

available ‘on demand’. 

The Camellia 

The two AA Rosette winning Camellia 

restaurant offers mouth-watering dishes 

made with skill and flair by the brigade 

of chefs. Using fresh vegetables from the 

hotel's walled kitchen garden and the finest 

local Sussex ingredients. 

To book a stay at any of Pride of Britain Hotels’ collection 

of 50 luxury properties, contact Pride of Britain Hotels 

(0800 089 3929). prideofbritainhotels.com 


▶ 

From state-of-the-art FIVE-STAR SPAS to 

treatments that harness the wonders of the natural 

world, THESE SOUL-SOOTHING, INDULGENT 

GETAWAYS ARE just what the doctor ordered… 

Words | Chantal Borciani 

GILPIN HOTEL & LAKE HOUSE 

Nestled amid the Lake District’s ice-dappled lakes and snowy 

mountains, Gilpin feels like a magical Scandinavian wonderland 

sprinkled with steamy lakeside cedar hot tubs and hideaway log 

cabins. All 25 hotel bedrooms boast Lakeland views, six with their own 

cedarwood tubs, and five intimate Spa Lodges feature their own ensuite 

spa (rainmaker showers and steam rooms inside, hydrotherapy hot tubs 

and saunas outside). One mile away, hunkered down in the endlessly 

romantic landscape lies Gilpin Lake House, a sanctuary where just 12 

guests enjoy 100 acres of private grounds, complete with a lake, boat 

house, hot tubs, saunas, and swimming pool. At the hotel’s Jetty Spa, 

the Swedish style spa treatment room is raised three metres into the tree 

canopy for a connection to nature like no other and one of the most 

captivating forest and lake views in the land. 

thegilpin.co.uk 

Pictured 

on our front 

cover! 

ROCKLIFFE HALL 

For mindful rejuvenation and sensory indulgence, Rockliffe 

Hall’s 50,000 sq ft spa, complete with mesmeric infinity pool, 

tepidarium beds, indoor hydrotherapy pool, Roman sauna, 

cleansing tropicarium and igloo, should do the trick. For the 

ultimate de-stress, the spa, situated on the County Durham 

and North Yorkshire border, has recently opened its new 

Mind Therapy Room, which features a Spa. Wave bed that 

uses computer-controlled acoustics, gentle sound waves and 

vibrational massage therapy to soothe the brain. Benefits can 

include deep relaxation, easing of muscle tension, reduction in 

stress levels and improved sleep quality. 

prideofbritainhotels.com 


GALGORM RESORT 

AND SPA 

On the banks of River Maine in Northern Ireland 

lies forest bathing and natural thermal healing 

at its best. Cocooned in 163 acres of lush 

parkland, Galgorm’s woodland ‘thermal village’ 

offers saunas, therapy pools, private wood-fired 

riverside tubs, a sanarium and Celtic sauna. For 

the brave hearted, Galgorm’s Snow Cabin will 

invigorate mind and body with powder snow and 

crystals and is said to boost circulation and have 

a positive effect on the lungs and respiratory 

system. 

galgorm.com 

COTTONMILL AT 

SOPWELL HOUSE 

Connection to the elements runs deep in Sopwell House’s 

new three-storey Hertfordshire spa, where an indoor/ 

outdoor hydrotherapy pool leads out to a restful spa 

garden created by award-winning designer, Ann-Marie 

Powell. Inside, a labyrinth of ice and fire experiences with 

an organic sauna, panoramic sauna, salt steam room 

and botanical steam room, while a Whisper Room and 

Rose Relaxation Room provide blissful cocoons of calm. 

The spa’s true calling card is the UK’s first ever amber 

and quartz crystal bed, which provides soothing thermal 

therapy by immersing the body in hot sand to ease tension 

and deliver muscle-melting relaxation. 

sopwellhouse.co.uk 


RUDDING PARK 

Hibernate in the garden sauna cabin, sun deck and spa bath 

of this rolling woodland garden near Harrogate, Yorkshire. 

The luxury hotel also boasts a rooftop spa with hydrotherapy 

pools and thermal experiences designed to reflect the beauty 

of its natural surroundings. A few slippered footsteps from 

the rooftop pool, Rudding Park’s new Sunlight Therapy Room 

features heated, sculpted loungers and ‘sunlight simulators’ 

to boost energy and wellbeing even in the darkest days of 

winter. Replicating natural sunlight, a 20-minute session can 

help reduce the effects of Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD), 

encourage sounder sleep, ease aches and pains and see an 

increase in energy and vitamin D production. 

ruddingpark.co.uk 

SOURCE SPA AND WELLNESS 

Perched atop the cliffs on North Devon’s stunning coastline and 

providing world-class treatments in an uber luxe setting, Source 

Spa and Wellness at Saunton Sands Hotel is the place to find 

yourself in nature. Inspired by its natural playground, the Spa 

utilises the breathtaking backdrop of the Atlantic Ocean’s gentle 

waves and the golden sands to create a tranquil environment. 

Spanning three levels to rejuvenate, relax and recharge including a 

lavish marine view thermal suite, a state-of-the-art gym, swimming 

pools and seven treatment rooms. Begin the Source wellness 

journey bathing in the mineral-rich marine vitality pool before 

soothing in the Finnish aroma sauna, salt steam room and ice 

fountain. Relax in one of the treatment rooms where therapies, 

rituals and treatments restore, invigorate and beautify. Gently 

awaken the senses on the top floor rooftop sun deck and restore 

your equilibrium with awe-inspiring views of huge skies, rugged 

dunes and rolling waters. Take the experience one step further and 

plump for an overnight stay in one of the sumptuous bedrooms and 

delight in two AA Rosette dining for ultimate luxury. 

sourcespa.co.uk 


LUCKNAM PARK 

Recharge and restore at this 18th century pile set in 500 acres 

of divine parkland, just six miles from the historic city of Bath, 

Somerset. The ESPA spa is the place for decadent relaxation, 

with a 20m indoor pool, outdoor and indoor hydrotherapy 

pool, outdoor salt water plunge, an ice bar and thermal 

cabins featuring Japanese salt, an amethyst room, aromatic 

steam and sauna. In addition to holistic practices including 

personalised Ayurvedic dosha and reiki, guests can opt for 

the innovative Dry Flotation treatment, where the body is 

cocooned and submerged on a thin warming membrane 

allowing you to peacefully float without touching the water 

for ultimate relaxation and weightless rest. 

lucknampark.co.uk 

CHEWTON GLEN 

A five-star, quintessentially English luxury Country House Hotel & Spa 

located on the fringe of the New Forest, Hampshire - this is a perfect 

venue to replenish the mind and body. Swim in the 17-metre swimming 

pool, before enjoying the hydrotherapy spa pool, outdoor whirlpool, 

aromatherapy saunas, and crystal steam rooms. With twelve individual 

treatment rooms offering no fewer than 50 different treatments and 

holistic therapies you're spoiled for choice. Or for something more 

active, there’s a state-of-the-art gymnasium, dance studio with daily 

programme of classes, 9 hole par-3 golf course, indoor and outdoor 

tennis centre and acres of woodland jogging and walking trails. 

chewtonglen.com 

STOKE PARK 

Stoke Park Spa is set within the sweeping natural beauty of a 

thousand year old estate in Buckinghamshire. Since its visionary 

creation as the first country club in Britain in 1908, Stoke Park 

has become a unique and accessible fusion of heritage-rich 

elegance and contemporary luxury, where some of the finest 

sporting and leisure facilities in the world can be enjoyed. 

The Spa is situated in The Pavilion, which also houses 28 

contemporary luxury bedrooms. The Pavilion offers a haven 

of luxury, indulgence and serenity, with facilities that include 

an indoor heated swimming pool, changing rooms with 

Italian marble steam rooms, deep relaxation room, a private 

atrium with stunning five metre tropical aquarium, outdoor 

Scandinavian Sauna and hot tub, nail bar and boutique. 

stokepark.com 


Discov er a new 

er a new 

kindred spirit 

Luxury English gin made in Surrey with 

24 botanicals. Full bodied with delicate 

florals, fresh citrus and velvety local honey. 

Smooth, refined, refreshingly individual. 

#forthespirited @silentpoolgin

STYLE 

EDITS 

Travel souvenirs and gifts lovingly made 

for the discerning traveller 

YUYU BOTTLE 

Luxurious body-length hot water bottles 

available at Harrods and Selfridges, from £25 

yuyubottle.com 

BRITISH 

TRAVEL 

JOURNAL 

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MADE I N D E V O N 

STAYING WARM 

Winter essentials to beat the cold 

DRYROBE 

This huge cape with waterproof material on the outside, towel lining and cosy hood, was 

launched by North Devon surfer, Gideon Bright - who owes credit to his mum for creating 

the first ever ‘dryrobe’ when he was a teenager, utilising her accomplished sewing skills, 

made to keep him warm after a day of surf. The dryrobe is now a celebrity favourite to keep 

you dry and warm, whatever the weather - the trajectory of dryrobe has been quite incredible. 

Long Sleeve dryrobe (as pictured aboved) priced from £130. dryrobe.com 

PROTEST FASHION 

Stand out both on and off the slopes in 

this tomic colour block ski jacket, £149.99 

protest.eu 

CHRISTMAS M U S T 

luxury, handsewn 

slipper socks for 

children, priced 

from £20, and for 

adults, from £40 

moccis.co.uk 


GIFT SHOP 

Keep a memento from your visit 

STONEHENGE TRILITHONS 

Celebrate and commemorate the magic of 

Stonehenge with Trilithon Drop Earrings, £22 

english-heritageshop.org.uk 

SIMPLY BRITISH TASTE 

Enjoy tea and confectionery from different 

parts of Britain each month with a taste box 

subscription, £19. Also available with a monthly 

fiction book, set in the British Isles, £34.99 

thetravellingreader.com 

MADE I N H A M P S H I R E 

WHITCHURCH SILK MILL 

After exploring the Mill itself, a gem of industrial heritage, with stunning views of the 

River Test, and wonderful gardens, head over to The Mill Shop and Riverside Café. 

Here you can buy unique gifts made from the silk woven at the Mill like these blue and 

pink herringbone spun silk scarves, with one wsm spun silk pashmina, priced £85 each 

whitchurchsilkmill.org.uk 

V&A CALENDARS FOR 2020 

Enjoy lavish designs from the V&A’s collections 

with these mini wall calendars, priced £5 each 

vam.ac.uk/shop 


TRAVEL TECH 

Smart gizmos for when you are on-the-go 

CONTACTLESS PAYMENT RING 

Simply tap your hand on the contactless 

card reader to pay, whether you’re buying 

a coffee or taking the Tube! £99.99 

fifthandblue.com 

I N 

STYLE 

OSTRICHPILLOW GO 

Create your own snugly space in the 

world and feel-good anywhere with 

the ultimate cocoon pillow. £47 

eu.ostrichpillow.com 

KODAK’S NEW SMILE 

The latest style in the collection, the new 

Classic instant retro camera offers a nostalgic 

look and feel with modern features. £149.99 

amazon.co.uk 

COMPACT ELECTRONIC SCALE 

Save money, time and hassle weighing your 

bags before you get to the airport. £70 

uk.tumi.com 

CONNECT SMART PACK 

Link your phone to your bag with this portable 

power and wearable technology. £299.99 

kathmandu.co.uk 

AIR-SAFE MANICURE SET 

Create hands worth holding with this stylish set 

from Jermyn Street’s Czech & Speake, £225 

fortnumandmason.com 


HIGH FLYERS 

For those who have everything already 

SOLID GOLD PAYMENT CARD 

A first of a kind by The Royal Mint - personalised 

for each Raris accountholder, with their name 

and signature directly engraved into the 

precious metal! Priced £18,750 (card only) 

raris.com 

LOVE OF THE SLOPES 

Limited-edition original posters featuring 

glamorous winter sports and summer resorts 

around the world evoking memories of holidays 

and special occasions. Priced £395. 

pullmaneditions.com 

FLOATING IN LUXURY 

Give the gift of Fingal this Christmas with a 

voucher for a stay on board Scotland’s first 

luxury floating hotel in Edinburgh. 

fingal.co.uk 

BOMBAY SAPPHIRE GIFT CARD 

For all experiences, the Mill Bar and 

Gin Shop both online and at the distillery 

distillery.bombaysapphire.com/experiences 

RHUBARB GIN & GOBLET SET 

Serve your Yorkshire Rhubarb gin in style with 

these branded Slingsby goblets, set priced £59.99 

spiritofharrogate.co.uk 

INSTAX MINI 90 INSTANT CAMERA 

Have fun with the creative new shooting 

modes including double exposure, £134.99 

instax.com 


ORIGINAL, LIMITED-EDITION ART DECO POSTERS 

Limited to editions of 280, our newly-commissioned 

Art Deco posters feature glamorous holiday 

destinations around the world, ski resorts in the 

Austrian, French and Swiss Alps, and the world’s 

greatest historic automobiles. Over 100 designs 

to choose from, all printed on 100% cotton fine art 

paper, measuring 97 x 65 cm. 

Priced at £395 each. 

Private commissions are also welcome. 

Pullman Editions Ltd 

94 Pimlico Road 

Chelsea 

London SW1W 8PL 

www.pullmaneditions.com 

Tel: +44 (0)20 7730 0547 

info@pullmaneditions.com 

Our central London gallery 

All images and text copyright © Pullman Editions Ltd. 2019 

View and buy online at www.pullmaneditions.com


In the Capital 

KING’S 

CROSS 

London’s hippest new 

area is buzzing with shops 

and restaurants – it’s the 

perfect urban base for a 

city break with attitude 

If you’re already in 

London it’s almost 

impossible not to 

pass through King’s 

Cross at some point, 

as the tube network 

converges here. 

Trains from all over 

Britain also arrive 

at King’s Cross and 

St Pancras stations, 

as well as nearby 

Euston. St Pancras 

is the home of the 

Eurostar terminal, 

with trains direct 

from Paris, 

Brussels, Amsterdam 

and beyond. Tube 

or rail links will also 

bring you direct 

to the area from 

most of the capital’s 

airports. 

Words | Helen Holmes 

Pictured 

left page: 

Coal Drops 

Yard - 

London's 

newest 

shopping 

and dining 

district 

THE LOCATION OF KING’S 

CROSS – in the heart 

of London, and easily 

accessible from almost 

anywhere, makes it surprising that 

it was ever an unloved patch of the 

capital. But just a few years ago 

it was nothing more than a grimy 

transport hub, with a few derelict 

warehouses thrown in for good 

measure. However, the neglect that 

the area suffered has turned out to be 

its saving grace. 

From the neo-gothic exuberance 

of St Pancras, to the urban majesty 

of the repurposed gas holders that 

line Regent’s Canal, via the sleek 

brutalism of the former Town Hall 

extension, now The Standard hotel, 

you could come to King’s Cross just 

for the architecture – but it offers so 

much more. 

If the area had been developed 

hotchpotch over the years, many of its 

architectural gems might have been 

lost when they were out of fashion 

– as St Pancras, famously saved by 

John Betjeman in the 1960s, nearly 

was. As it is, the buildings have been 

largely preserved – and over the past 

decade King’s Cross has undergone a 

transformation that has been social as 

well as architectural. World class hotels 

nestle side by side with quirky gems, 

like a floating bookshop in a 1920s 

Dutch barge, and a peripatetic café 

cooking up food grown on site. à 


IMAGES © JOHN STURROCK 

SHOPPING 

Next door to Granary Square, Coal Drops Yard is 

a great place to sample the best of London shopping 

– with stores from iconic British designers like Paul 

Smith and Margaret Howell, as well as relative 

newcomers such as Blackhorse Lane Ateliers, selling 

London-made denim clothing, and independent 

British spectacles brand, Cubitts. 

coaldropsyard.com 

St Pancras Station is more than just a railway 

terminus, it’s also home to numerous stores – Cath 

Kidston, Hamleys, Fortnum and Mason, and Aspinal 

– to name a few. For a more off-beat shopping 

experience, visit Word on the Water – a floating 

bookshop on the canal by Granary Square. à 

Pictured above 

and Immediately 

right: 

‘Semaphores’ 

a series of three 

sculptures 

by British- 

Argentinian 

artist Amalia 

Pica. Other 

images left-right: 

Granary Square; 

and Lower Stable 

Street, Coal 

Drops Yard. 



Pictured above-right: Everyman 

Cinema and Anthracite martini 

lounge 

WE LOVE 

IFO (Identified Flying 

Object) in Battle Bridge 

Place (at the crossroads of 

King’s Cross and St Pancras 

International stations) 

challenging our perception 

of the everyday. This 

spectacular installation 

was part of the Lumiere 

London programme - now a 

permanent public artwork, it 

stands at 9m (29ft) in height 

and, magnificently lit in neon, 

it invites us to walk through 

its bars and enjoy the swing 

that's in its centre. 


KING'S CROSS 

ATTRACTIONS 

Although it’s easy to reach any of London’s multiple attractions from 

King’s Cross, there’s plenty to do without leaving the area. 

Take a walk along Regent’s Canal, and you can enjoy a tranquil 

view of this slice of London – the gas holders at dusk are a particular 

joy. The canal will also take you to Granary Square, home of Central 

St Martin’s art college, spectacular fountains, and regular events and 

outdoor art installations. 

Also in Granary Square is the House of Illustration. Founded 

by Quentin Blake, this is the only public gallery in Britain dedicated 

solely to illustration and graphic art. houseofillustration.org.uk 

King’s Cross station itself is worth a visit – both for the original 

building designed by Lewis Cubitt, and the spectacular 2012 

extension. Not to mention the Harry Potter connection – while 

you’re there, don’t forget to have yourself photographed flying into 

platform 9¾. 

Swap your soft drink for a nice glass of red wine and a slice of 

freshly made pizza served to your seat while you watch the latest 

movie or one of the classics at Everyman Cinema in Handyside Street. 

everymancinema.com 

Just the other side of St Pancras is the British Library. You’ll need 

a reader pass to visit the famous reading rooms, but there are also 

numerous exhibitions inspired by the library’s collections, all open to 

the general public, and many of them free. bl.uk 

A short stroll down Euston Road will take you to the Wellcome 

Collection, a free museum and library which hosts inventive 

exhibitions exploring the connections between science, medicine, life 

and art. wellcomecollection.org 

And if you do manage to exhaust everything King’s Cross has 

to offer, a pleasant amble through Bloomsbury will take you to the 

British Museum – or after a few minutes on the canal towpath you 

can find yourself in Camden Town or Islington. 

FOOD AND DRINK 

With the regeneration of the area, numerous great 

restaurants have sprung up, and King's Cross is 

positively bristling with places to eat good food, and 

watch the world go by. 

The German Gymnasium creates delicious Germaninspired 

food, in a truly stunning period building. 

germangymnasium.com 

At Caravan, an eclectic global menu is cooked up in 

an old grain store, very much in keeping with the whole 

area’s industrial chic. caravanrestaurants.co.uk. 

Indian with a difference – Dishoom offers a 

scrumptious Iranian-Indian menu in a restaurant with 

décor inspired by 1920s Bombay. dishoom.com 

For an ultra-glamorous and sophisticated martini 

lounge head to Anthracite in the Great Northern Hotel. 

anthracitelounge.com 

For low-key Italian, try Albertini on Chalton Street. 

Tasty, unpretentious food and friendly staff make this a 

tried and tested local institution. albertini.co.uk 

The Skip Garden Kitchen serves vegetarian food 

from around the world, using local, seasonal and 

organic ingredients – some of them grown on site. It 

moves around King’s Cross as different spaces become 

available, so check out its latest location online. 

globalgeneration.org.uk à 


KING'S CROSS 

WHERE TO STAY 

The Standard 

The only European outpost of this ultra hip US hotel chain 

is housed in a mid century brutalist monument, once home 

to the local council. The building, which opened as hotel 

in July 2019, has been lovingly refurbished, with pleasing, 

playful touches. Furniture is upholstered in customwoven 

Harris tweed and the reception area has a ceramic 

installation by London-based artist Lubna Chowdhary. 

Carpets echo London Underground moquette, and the 

hotel lounge houses an eccentrically-curated library – a 

nod to the fact that the ground floor of the building was 

once home to the local municipal library (this has now 

been moved to the council’s new offices just across the 

road). If you’re looking for idiosyncratic luxury, with a 

mid-century James Bond vibe, The Standard is your place. 

standardhotels.com/london 

St Pancras Renaissance 

Facing The Standard across Euston Road, the Renaissance 

is a different experience altogether. A fairytale in red brick, 

designed by gothic revivalist George Gilbert Scott, it’s 

stage-set Victorian London (and, in fact, several films have 

been shot here, including Harry Potter and the Deathly 

Hallows). Ceilings are vertiginously high, and rooms are 

packed with period features. Perfect for train spotters and 

Potter fans alike – some of the rooms actually overlook the 

interior of St Pancras Station. stpancraslondon.com u 

Pictured 

right-left: 

The 

Standard; 

and St 

Pancras 

Renaissance 



BRITISH TRAVEL JOURNAL CROSSWORD 04 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

ACROSS 

9 Bearing in mind (7) 

10 How air usually flows through an 

electric fan (7) 

11 The St. ---, classic Doncaster horse 

race (5) 

12 Suffolk town hosting a music and 

arts festival every June (9) 

13 Cheshire village, home to the Duke 

of Westminster's estate (9) 

14 Last movement of a sonata (5) 

15 Captain who first recognised Cheltenham's 

spa potential (11) 

20 Video game plumber (5) 

22 Norwegian midnight sun spot 

(5,4) 

25 Shredded desiccant causes 

mishaps (9) 

26 Pop the cork (5) 

27 Unsettled scores (7) 

28 Not found on tank tops (7) 

DOWN 

1 RHS Great Spring Show venue (7) 

2 British Iron Age tribal type (6) 

3 Victorian Prime Minister and author 

(8) 

4 Shocked (6) 

5 Bitterly derisive (8) 

6 One who likes a drop or two (6) 

7 Prince Charles's official House (8) 

8 RAF multi-role combat aircraft (7) 

15 Began to play (6,2) 

16 Southern extremity of the 

Isle of Man (8) 

17 Moves to a different home (8) 

18 Trade restriction (7) 

19 Tester support (7) 

21 Stage of life Shakespeare said was 

"sans everything" (3,3) 

Answers will be printed in the 

Spring Issue out 26 February 

The first correct crossword received will be rewarded with a free gift from 

The Travelling Reader. Simply send your completed crossword (or the answers) 

with your choice of The Original, The London, or Simply British Tastes box, 

(thetravellingreader.com) and your postal address, by post to British Travel 

Journal, Mitchell House, Brook Avenue, Warsash, Southampton, Hampshire, 

SO31 9HP, or email the answers to crossword@britishtraveljournal.com 

ANSWERS TO CROSSWORD 03 | AUTUMN 2019 

ACROSS: 8 Pacino 9 Ullapool 10 Land a job 11 Noises 12 Lauder 13 Rewrites 

14 Listed companies 18 Quit-rent 21 Calico 23 Armlet 24 Aysgarth 25 Wargrave 

26 Unions. DOWN: 1 Kalahari, 2 Winded, 3 Conjured, 4 Sunbury-on- 

Thames 5 All-new 6 Optician 7 Cohere 15 Tutelage 16 Picks out 17 Exciting 

19 Unreal 20 Extras 22 Lead-in 

FOR YOUR JOURNEY 

Books, apps, travel gadgets and crossword 

VISITORS’ GUIDE TO SCOTLAND 

796 pages filled with activities, architecture, 

castles, tours, events, gardens, geology, history, 

islands, lochs, nature, food, steam trains, 

whisky distilleries and so much more! £50 

visitorsguidetoscotland.com 


NECKLACE EARPHONES 

Connected via Bluetooth this gorgeous 

Swarovski Elements pendant allows you to 

listen to music, answer phone calls, connect to 

Siri and accessorise your outfit handsfree. £189 

fifthandblue.com 

POCKET TRANSLATOR 

Converse quickly and easily with people in 

a multitude of languages with this two-way 

voice translator that instantly translates 74 

languages making overseas travel easy! £219 

amazon.co.uk

British Travel Journal | Winter 2019

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