MZANZI ISSUE 16

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HEADER iStock-Hajakely iStock-Pierre-Yves Babelon From them I learned to play dominoes the Malagasy way, play the round board of solitaire and share a drink with invisible ancestors long dead. By my second visit to the island I no longer stayed in a hotel but was invited to stay with George and his family in one of his two houses in Antananarivo and the southwestern city of Toliara (also known as Tulear), which is where I have stayed during all my subsequent visits. Antananarivo & the central highlands From the airport we drove across rice paddies with rice laid out to dry on the busy road leaving a single lane free for cars, and into the busy outer suburbs of the city. Antananarivo, or Tana as the locals call it, is the political and financial heart of the country and has a population of around 4 million. The original city was built on top and in the valleys of a series of hills, and later spread out across the floodplains and flat land surrounding it. The highest hill of Tana is dominated by the structure of the rova; a fortified royal complex built by the ruling Andriana dynasty of the Merina, whose reign was ended in the late 19th century when the French colonized the island. After a fire destroyed much of the royal complex in 1995, it was rebuilt and is now open to the public as a museum. Tana is a feast of narrow cobble streets and shuttered colonial buildings around a central lake with an island. The architectural mixture reflects traditional Malagasy culture and French colonial influence as well as the erstwhile Malagasy system of social classes. The higher you were socially, the higher up the hill and closer to the royal palace you lived, something that is still reflected today in the fact that the haute ville neighbourhood around the palace is considered the most upmarket and expensive residential area with its beautiful examples of renovated trano gasy homes. The city offers everything you can think of. From the historic zoma market with its tile-roofed pavilions and white parasols, historical buildings and museums, modern and old hotels, eateries and pubs, to a zoo with indigenous species and the skeleton of a now extinct elephant bird, nightclubs and cinemas, gardens and parks, a street dedicated to silver and gold smiths, and beautiful surrounding countryside. The streets are filled with people, animals, bicycle taxis, rickshaws, taxi-bres (minibus taxis), bicycles and scooters, ox-drawn carts, old 1950s and 1960s French-made buses and taxi cabs, to modern SUVs. When the railway line between the eastern port city of Toamasina and Tana is operational you can catch the ancient Tananarive–Côte Est train or one of those peculiar Micheline railcars trundling into town to the beautifully renovated Soarano train station at the end of L’Avenue de l’Indépendance. Going south Although a number of roads have been rehabilitated or upgraded in recent years, travelling by road can be a slow affair depending 124 |ISSUE 16|www.mzanzitravel.co.za | MZANZITRAVEL
Explore HEADER Africa iStock-Pierre-Yves Babelon MZANZITRAVEL| www.mzanzitravel.co.za|ISSUE 16 | 125 iStock-Ognjen Stevanovic
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Some of the world’s most unique t
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contents 26 12 TRAVELBITES …touri
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contents 76 86 108 120 76 ALL ON BO
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MOVEMENTS TOWARD CONSERVATION Sasol
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Airlink flies directly to Nosy Be f
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SA government’s moves to bolster
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HOOKED ON SUMMER SHOPPING R43 Main
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Inverdoorn Private Game Reserve is
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December RAINER KLOTZ; iStock 4 Dec
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January events Alessandro Cristiano
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8 best secluded beaches in sa of th
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Travel Tips iStock-LeRouxMinnaar Po
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Churchhaven iStock-eclipseart Excep
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ABOUT KENYA AIRWAYS | Kenya Airways
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EASTPOINT HOTEL SERVICES WE OFFER E
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Discover In August Mzanzitravel’s
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Discover other fun we still enjoyed
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SECUREGUARD WIRELESS SYSTEM FOR ONL
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Day is ‘Tourism and jobs - a bett
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within the lap of the majestic moun
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THOM KIGHT COMPANY (PTY) LTD Local
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Adventure A bird’s-eye view of So
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Adventure For a fee from R4,675 per
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A passion for adventure? When passi
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Adventure with a qualified jumper/i
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Durban Promenade | KwaZulu-Natal SU
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Summer Travel iStock-Philip Massie
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Summer Travel With a coastline that
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Summer Travel first European explor
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Summer Travel iStock-Hongqi Zhang i
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Summer Travel In 1842 they made an
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PROBIOTICS& YOUR HEALTH O ver the p
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Page 82: HEADER Thirsty? There are usually a
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Page 89 and 90: Heritage The colonisation of South
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Page 93 and 94: FRANSCHHOEK MOTOR MUSEUM The Fransc
Page 95 and 96: Luxury Accommodation • Five Star
Page 97 and 98: 137cm Double 152cm Queen 183cm King
Page 99 and 100: Travel somewhere you’ve never bee
Page 101 and 102: Summer Fun WESTERN CAPE Cape Town:
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Page 105 and 106: Summer Fun EASTERN CAPE Nieu-Bethes
Page 107 and 108: Hybrid Images - iStock Johannesburg
Page 109 and 110: CONVENTION ON WETLANDS (Ramsar, Ira
Page 111 and 112: Regional Feature From sun-soaked be
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Page 121 and 122: THE WAVES ARE CALLING, MAKE MEMORIE
Page 123 and 124: HEADER Madagascar … magical vanil
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Page 131 and 132: West coast Travelling southwest you
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Page 135 and 136: A learning holiday that could CHANG
Page 137 and 138: SUMMER SPECIAL Heat up your summer
Page 140: Discover Nosy Be Image courtesy Sak
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MZANZI ISSUE 16

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