03.04.2020 Views

Jeweller - April 2020

• Conquering Coronavirus: protect and prepare your business during the pandemic • Time frame: exploring five years of change in the watch category • Watch this space: a showcase of best-selling and new release watches

• Conquering Coronavirus: protect and prepare your business during the pandemic
• Time frame: exploring five years of change in the watch category
• Watch this space: a showcase of best-selling and new release watches

SHOW MORE
SHOW LESS

Create successful ePaper yourself

Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.

VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY APRIL <strong>2020</strong><br />

Conquering corona<br />

PROTECT AND PREPARE YOUR<br />

BUSINESS DURING THE PANDEMIC<br />

Time frame<br />

EXPLORING FIVE YEARS OF CHANGE<br />

IN THE WATCH CATEGORY<br />

Watch this space<br />

A SHOWCASE OF BEST-SELLING AND<br />

NEW RELEASE WATCHES


September 12<br />

OPEN UPDATE FROM GARY FITZ-ROY AS AT MARCH 21, <strong>2020</strong><br />

We’ll get through this together<br />

First and foremost, our thoughts are with those who have been affected<br />

by COVID-19 in these unprecedented and challenging times, and those<br />

still recovering from the tragic fires earlier in the year.<br />

As a family business whose whole business has in effect been forced<br />

closed, we fully understand the pressures of daily business.<br />

We’re monitoring the situation<br />

OPEN UPDATE FROM GARY FITZ-ROY AS AT MARCH 21, <strong>2020</strong><br />

We’ll get through this together<br />

We understand the concern you may have around the potential impact of COVID-19, and we<br />

believe that it is important that YOUR industry event – the International <strong>Jeweller</strong>y & Watch Fair –<br />

continues to support the industry. We do take the matter of COVID-19 and the protection of our<br />

communities seriously.<br />

The health and wellbeing of all those in the industry is always our top priority and we will continue<br />

to monitor the public health situation closely and adhere to all advice provided by the government<br />

and health authorities.<br />

TOGETHER STRONGER United We Stand<br />

J E W ELLERY & WATCH FAIR<br />

September 12 – 14, <strong>2020</strong><br />

This is a time to support one another and I know many manufacturers and distributors here in Australia<br />

have stock and want to support the local market.<br />

I urge you to buy local, support local and I know many are providing terms to assist retailers. Based on<br />

this, we will get through this and we will be stronger for it.<br />

At the time of writing, the Fair is proceeding, and we are mobilising some great initiatives and plans.<br />

I am pleased to advise that the four buying groups will have a strong focus at this year’s Fair. This<br />

will ensure all the buying is on the show floor, making it as easy and well-connected as possible.<br />

Stay strong, the Australian spirit and fight will shine through.<br />

INTERNATIONAL<br />

AN INDUSTRY UPDATE FROM GARY FITZ-ROY AS AT 21 MARCH <strong>2020</strong><br />

We’ll get through this together<br />

OPEN UPDATE FROM GARY FITZ-ROY AS AT MARCH 21, <strong>2020</strong><br />

First and foremost, our thoughts are with those who have been affected<br />

by COVID-19 in these unprecedented and challenging times, and those<br />

still recovering from the tragic fires earlier in the year.<br />

We’ll get through this together<br />

As a family business whose whole business has in effect been forced<br />

closed, we fully understand the pressures of daily business.<br />

We’re monitoring the situation<br />

We understand the concern you may have around the potential impact of COVID-19, and we<br />

believe that it is important that YOUR industry event – the International <strong>Jeweller</strong>y & Watch Fair –<br />

continues to support the industry. We do take the matter of COVID-19 and the protection of our<br />

communities seriously.<br />

The health and wellbeing of all those in the industry is always our top priority and we will continue<br />

to monitor the public health situation closely and adhere to all advice provided by the government<br />

and health authorities.<br />

TOGETHER STRONGER United We Stand<br />

INTERNATIONAL<br />

J E W ELLERY & WATCH FAIR<br />

First and foremost, our thoughts are with those who have been affected by COVID-19<br />

in these unprecedented and challenging times, and those still recovering from the<br />

tragic bushfires earlier in the year.<br />

September 12 – 14, <strong>2020</strong><br />

As a family business which has, in effect, been forced to close due to the international<br />

health and financial crises, we fully understand the pressures of daily business.<br />

WE’RE MONITORING THE SITUATION<br />

We understand the concern you may have around the potential impact of COVID-19, and<br />

we believe that it’s important that your industry event – the International <strong>Jeweller</strong>y & Watch<br />

Fair – continues to support the local industry. We take the matter of COVID-19 and the<br />

protection of our communities seriously.<br />

First and foremost, our thoughts are with those who have been affected<br />

by COVID-19 in these unprecedented and challenging times, and those<br />

still recovering from the tragic fires earlier in the year.<br />

As a family business whose whole business has in effect been forced<br />

closed, we fully understand the pressures of daily business.<br />

The health and wellbeing of all those in the industry is always our top priority and we will<br />

continue to monitor the public health situation closely and adhere to all government and<br />

health authority advice.<br />

We’re monitoring the situation<br />

We understand the concern you may have around the potential impact of COVID-19, and we<br />

believe that it is important that YOUR industry event – the International <strong>Jeweller</strong>y & Watch Fair –<br />

continues to support the industry. We do take the matter of COVID-19 and the protection of our<br />

communities seriously.<br />

TOGETHER STRONGER - UNITED WE STAND<br />

This is a time to support one another and I know many manufacturers and distributors here<br />

in Australia have stock and want to support the local market.<br />

The health and wellbeing of all those in the industry is always our top priority and we will continue<br />

to monitor the public health situation closely and adhere to all advice provided by the government<br />

and health authorities.<br />

I urge you to buy local, support local and I know many are providing trading terms to assist<br />

retailers. Based on supporting each other, I know we will get through this and the industry<br />

will be stronger for it.<br />

This is a time to support one another and I know many manufacturers and distributors here in Australia<br />

have stock and want to support the local market.<br />

TOGETHER STRONGER United We Stand<br />

At the time of writing (21 March), the Sydney Fair scheduled for mid-September will proceed,<br />

and we are mobilising some great initiatives and plans.<br />

This is a time to support one another and I know many manufacturers and distributors here in Australia<br />

have stock and want to support the local market.<br />

I urge you to buy local, support local and I know many are providing terms to assist retailers. Based on<br />

this, we will get through this and we will be stronger for it.<br />

I am pleased to advise that the four buying groups will have a strong focus at this year’s<br />

Fair which ensures all the retail buying will take place on the fair floor, making it as easy<br />

and well-connected as possible.<br />

I urge you to buy local, support local and I know many are providing terms to assist retailers. Based on<br />

this, we will get through this and we will be stronger for it.<br />

At the time of writing, the Fair is proceeding, and we are mobilising some great initiatives and plans.<br />

I am pleased to advise that the four buying groups will have a strong focus at this year’s Fair. This<br />

will ensure all the buying is on the show floor, making it as easy and well-connected as possible.<br />

This year’s Fair will play a pivotal role of UNITING and connecting the industry, and I look forward<br />

to seeing you on the floor,<br />

At the time of writing, the Fair is proceeding, and we are mobilising some great initiatives and plans.<br />

I am pleased to advise that the four buying groups will have a strong focus at this year’s Fair. This<br />

will ensure all the buying is on the show floor, making it as easy and well-connected as possible.<br />

The current crisis affects all levels of the industry from suppliers and service providers right<br />

through to retail stores. No one has been spared. However, if we stay strong, the Australian<br />

spirit and fight will shine through.<br />

Stay strong, the Australian spirit and fight will shine through.<br />

Stay strong, the Australian spirit and fight will shine through.<br />

This year’s Fair will play a pivotal role of UNITING and connecting the industry, and I look forward<br />

to seeing you on the floor,<br />

This year’s Fair will play a pivotal role of UNITING and connecting the industry, and I look forward<br />

to seeing you on the floor,<br />

This year’s Fair will play a pivotal role in connecting and uniting the industry, and I look<br />

forward to seeing you in September.<br />

Gary Fitz-Roy,<br />

Expertise Events<br />

Gary Fitz-Roy,<br />

Expertise Events<br />

Gary Fitz-Roy,<br />

Expertise Events<br />

Gary FItz-Roy<br />

Expertise Events<br />

ICC Sydney Exhibition Centre, Darling Harbour<br />

ICC Sydney ICC Sydney Exhibition Exhibition Centre, Centre, Darling Darling Harbour<br />

WWW.JEWELLERYFAIR.COM.AU<br />

WWW.JEWELLERYFAIR.COM.AU<br />

Organised by<br />

Organised by<br />

Est.1990


Manage every interaction with your<br />

leads, customers, and teams,<br />

all from one platform.<br />

“So he googled us,<br />

liked our reviews,<br />

messaged us, came in,<br />

bought, and left us a review—<br />

the cycle is complete!”<br />

Max Defrancesco, Ancona Jewelers<br />

Do you do custom rings?<br />

Yes we do! Pretty much<br />

everything is customizable,<br />

from setting to stone to cut.<br />

What are you looking for?<br />

We’re wanting to create a<br />

unique engagement ring.<br />

Wonderful, congratulations!<br />

Come on in and we can go<br />

through all the options.<br />

61.478.189.947


APRIL <strong>2020</strong><br />

Contents<br />

This Month<br />

Industry Facets<br />

7 Editor’s Desk<br />

8 Upfront<br />

10 News<br />

14<br />

15<br />

17<br />

10 YEARS AGO<br />

Time Machine: <strong>April</strong> 2010<br />

MY STORE<br />

The Diamond Shop<br />

LEARN ABOUT GEMS<br />

Synthetic Moissanite<br />

18 STRATEGY FEATURE<br />

Pandemic panic<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong> details the business strategies<br />

and support available to retail jewellers<br />

affected by the disruption of COVID-19.<br />

Features<br />

18<br />

48<br />

50<br />

MY BENCH<br />

Steve Pallas<br />

SOAPBOX<br />

Emil Ozer<br />

STRATEGY FEATURE<br />

Coping with Coronavirus: Business Survival Guide<br />

28 INTERNATIONAL TRADE SHOW REPORT<br />

Mumbai to Jaipur<br />

28<br />

30<br />

INTERNATIONAL TRADE SHOW REPORT<br />

Indian Ingenuity<br />

WATCH INDUSTRY REPORT<br />

Trends in Time<br />

Before the disruption<br />

of the coronavirus,<br />

COLEBY NICHOLSON<br />

observed the bold<br />

future of the Indian<br />

jewellery industry<br />

taking shape.<br />

36<br />

PRODUCT PROFILE<br />

Watch Showcase: New Releases & Bestsellers<br />

Better Your Business<br />

42<br />

RETAIL STRATEGY<br />

BRI WILLIAMS explores why your customers resist your sales techniques.<br />

30 WATCH INDUSTRY REPORT<br />

Turn back<br />

the clock<br />

ARABELLA RODEN<br />

examines the evolution<br />

of the watch industry<br />

over the past<br />

five years.<br />

44<br />

45<br />

46<br />

47<br />

SELLING<br />

Focus on your returning customers, advises RICHARD SHAPIRO.<br />

MANAGEMENT<br />

BRIAN JEFFREY sets out a plan for managing staff during a recession.<br />

MARKETING & PR<br />

Word-of-mouth is the most powerful marketing tool, writes THOMAS YOUNG.<br />

LOGGED ON<br />

DAVID BROWN details how to make your website more effective for sales.<br />

36 SHOWCASE<br />

Timed<br />

release<br />

Discover new and best-<br />

selling watch models on<br />

the market with <strong>Jeweller</strong>’s<br />

showcase.<br />

FRONT COVER<br />

The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic<br />

combines style and sophistication with<br />

the Swiss brand’s in-house Baumatic<br />

movement. It embodies the excellence<br />

of the Swiss watch tradition. Distributed<br />

by Duraflex Group Australia.<br />

dgau.com.au<br />

<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 5


In house self-winding movement, 40mm steel case<br />

Proudly distribued by Duraflex Group Australia<br />

Contact: (02) 94717 0177<br />

baume-et-mercier.com


Editor’s Desk<br />

Retail reality: recalibrating to a new normal<br />

The search for solutions amid the pandemic panic starts with understanding consumers, writes ANGELA HAN.<br />

The COVID-19 pandemic sent a shockwave<br />

around the globe, leading to businesses<br />

closing almost overnight. This has left<br />

retailers wrestling with how they can keep<br />

their doors open and staff employed, amid<br />

empty tills and sleeplessness.<br />

These problems are very real.<br />

Meanwhile, economists and analysts tell<br />

us that this pandemic is an opportunity for<br />

governments and businesses to refine their<br />

disaster planning processes. That’s good for<br />

everyone in the long run, and headlines herald<br />

that innovation flourishes in times of crisis. But<br />

what does innovation look like for jewellers?<br />

History has proven that societies are altered<br />

by extreme adversity, and the lessons learned<br />

are carried through generations.<br />

Trade has developed a pattern over thousands<br />

of years: firstly, identifying gaps or needs<br />

in people’s lives, secondly, conceptualising<br />

how we can fill that gap or need, and finally,<br />

fulfilling that gap or need.<br />

Following this template, we can find solutions<br />

to problems of the present and adapt to the<br />

inevitable changes that will occur in the future.<br />

Agility is the new normal<br />

Business owners are constantly told to remain<br />

“agile”, but what does that actually mean for<br />

jewellery retailers, and how can they quickly<br />

respond to the inevitable post-coronavirus<br />

shift in consumer behaviour?<br />

The nature of evolution is not only survival,<br />

but also how necessary the organism is based<br />

on its usefulness to its surrounding network.<br />

To evolve, you must understand your position<br />

in the market and how best to serve your<br />

customers.<br />

We must acknowledge that the way we engage<br />

with our surroundings has fundamentally<br />

changed. With all the meticulous handwashing,<br />

there’s bound to be an increase in<br />

shoppers feeling uncomfortable trying on<br />

items in stores. This may lead to increasing<br />

consumer reliance on e-commerce.<br />

Many of the behaviours that consumers have<br />

adopted during the pandemic might remain<br />

permanent, which will in turn decisively<br />

affect our economy. For example, shopping<br />

centres will have to rethink the way they rent<br />

retail space with more businesses adopting<br />

sophisticated omni-channel strategies.<br />

SOTI, a technology company, recently<br />

published A State of Mobility in Retail<br />

which included the survey results of 4,000<br />

people about their omni-channel shopping<br />

experiences. The findings indicate that<br />

consumers want a secure, personalised instore<br />

experience via mobile.<br />

It also revealed that 67 per cent of consumers<br />

felt that mobile was the best way to deliver a<br />

seamless shopping experience, and 76 per<br />

cent wanted store staff to use mobile devices<br />

to provide a better in-store experience.<br />

If a safe, seamless and speedy delivery is<br />

uppermost in the minds of customers, then the<br />

next few months are a good time for retailers<br />

to spend fine-tuning their digital presence,<br />

focusing particularly on mobile development,<br />

and connecting with customers. Is this a gap<br />

in your business? If not, then fill it.<br />

Strengthened local manufacturing<br />

With the global supply chain heavily impacted<br />

for the foreseeable future, consumers will be<br />

driven by default to support local businesses<br />

and we will only become more reliant on one<br />

another until markets resume some form of<br />

normality.<br />

Manufacturing jewellers have seen a slow<br />

return to custom design and personalised<br />

manufacturing in the past few years, with<br />

coloured gemstones enjoying a moment<br />

in the spotlight.<br />

This trend, in part, is driven by a generation<br />

of Millennials who ascribe strongly to<br />

philosophies of self-expression and<br />

personalisation, and those aspects of the<br />

business may experience further growth<br />

once the market is ready for some form<br />

of normal trade.<br />

If you’re still in business today or when the<br />

crisis has passed, it’s because customers<br />

have trusted you over the years.<br />

Strengthen your position now by keeping your<br />

communication lines open, engaging them in<br />

creative ways.<br />

Remember: love doesn’t stop in a pandemic!<br />

It’s a good time to let your customers know that<br />

your ability to serve them in their moments of<br />

celebration remains unwavering during this<br />

time.<br />

If you’re still in<br />

business today,<br />

it’s because<br />

customers have<br />

trusted you<br />

over the years.<br />

Strengthen your<br />

position now by<br />

keeping your<br />

communication<br />

lines open,<br />

engaging them<br />

in creative<br />

ways.<br />

Smarter shoppers<br />

The internet has made consumers smarter<br />

– and more selective – than ever before. They<br />

are looking for attentive businesses that will<br />

help fulfil their needs and wants. With the<br />

emergence of CAD/CAM and 3D printing, a<br />

gradually growing segment of customers are<br />

producing their own designs saved on a USB<br />

stick, for their local jeweller.<br />

While some retailers have turned these<br />

jobs away, smarter operators with the right<br />

skillsets have helped customers refine<br />

their design on-screen behind their bench,<br />

leading to an opportunity for a sale while<br />

extending education and earning the trust<br />

of a committed new customer.<br />

The joy of a better-informed customer is in<br />

the engagement and depth of discussion. It<br />

is a jeweller’s job to stay abreast of a wide<br />

range of topics such as ethical sourcing, 3D<br />

modelling and printing, the pros and cons<br />

of natural and lab-created diamonds, or<br />

alternative gemstones for engagement rings.<br />

Don’t be intimidated – be prepared.<br />

Be as helpful as you can in fulfilling your<br />

customer’s specific needs and help them<br />

deliver their beautiful jewellery by any<br />

means. Smart shoppers love being educated,<br />

and if they can learn new things from you,<br />

they will keep coming back.<br />

After all, luxury today is said to be driven by<br />

authentic, personal interactions. Creating a<br />

tailored experience for your customer works<br />

because people gravitate towards businesses<br />

that can give them what they need in an<br />

unforgettable way.<br />

At the heart of survival is being attentive<br />

and able to meet others at their point of need.<br />

Now is a forgiving time to take some risks,<br />

as everyone across the world is navigating<br />

uncharted waters. Try communicating with<br />

customers differently, explore new methods<br />

of selling inventory, and refine your business<br />

goals while making the changes you’ve been<br />

wanting to make. There won’t be a better<br />

time to recalibrate your business.<br />

Your customers are changing, they’re talking,<br />

and if you listen, you’ll know exactly what<br />

they want and how you can deliver.<br />

Angela Han<br />

Publisher<br />

<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 7


Upfront<br />

#Instagram hashtags to follow<br />

Alpha Order<br />

#benchjeweller<br />

16,800+ POSTS<br />

#birthstone<br />

517,700+ POSTS<br />

#jewelryaddict<br />

4.5 MILLION POSTS<br />

#jewelryoftheday<br />

1.8 MILLION POSTS<br />

Stranger Things<br />

Weird, wacky and wonderful<br />

jewellery news from around the world<br />

#fancycolordiamonds<br />

27,100+ POSTS<br />

#handmadejewellery<br />

2.4 MILLION POSTS<br />

#isaidyes<br />

2.4 MILLION POSTS<br />

APRIL BIRTHSTONE<br />

Diamond<br />

Natural colour diamonds:<br />

Kunming Diamonds<br />

The hardest natural substance on Earth, diamonds<br />

have long been associated with strength, purity and love.<br />

The first written record of a diamond dates to 500 BCE.<br />

Until the 18th Century, the only known diamond mines<br />

in the world were located in India, and the first South<br />

African diamond wasn’t found until 1867.<br />

Digital Brainwave<br />

#jewelrylovers<br />

1 MILLION + POSTS<br />

#jewellerymaker<br />

530,000+ POSTS<br />

#oneofakindjewelry<br />

660,000+ POSTS<br />

Trendspotting<br />

Gold chains abounded on the<br />

catwalks of New York, London, Milan<br />

and Paris for the autumn/winter <strong>2020</strong><br />

fashion shows, from fine links and<br />

simple chokers to chunky necklaces<br />

and pearl-embellished chain pendants.<br />

Alberta Ferretti AW20, Shutterstock<br />

Pig out!<br />

The UK’s Royal Mint has<br />

unveiled the ‘world’s most<br />

expensive piggybank’.<br />

The 18-carat gold item,<br />

named Minty, was created by<br />

Bristol jewellers Phillip and<br />

James Kydd and is valued at<br />

£100,000. Each additional<br />

Minty purchased will be<br />

handmade to order. A sterling<br />

silver piggybank is also<br />

available, priced at £6,000.<br />

On a roll<br />

A Las Vegas jewellery store<br />

has made headlines<br />

for its response to the<br />

coronavirus. The business<br />

advertised a single roll of<br />

toilet paper for $US3,999.<br />

The promotional toilet<br />

roll comes with a ‘free’ 1-carat<br />

diamond ring! Like Australian<br />

consumers, shoppers in<br />

the US have been proactively<br />

stocking up on toilet paper<br />

in anticipation of isolation<br />

requirements.<br />

While 42 per cent<br />

of consumers<br />

clicked items<br />

priced at $1,000<br />

or less, a third<br />

clicked on items<br />

priced $1,000–<br />

$2,500.<br />

The US market research company<br />

GemFind Digital Solutions has released<br />

the 2019 edition of its annual Jewelry<br />

Consumer Trends Report.<br />

Based on data collected from 400 US retail<br />

jewellery websites, it found that diamonds<br />

were popular all year round, with spikes<br />

in February, March, July, and October.<br />

More than half of all searches were for<br />

rings, followed by necklaces at 10 per cent<br />

and earrings and watches at 9 per cent<br />

each. The most searched-for metals were<br />

14-carat and 18-carat white gold.<br />

Top Product<br />

This beautiful basket necklace<br />

from Ikecho Australia is crafted in<br />

9-carat yellow gold with a two-tone<br />

finish. It features an 11.5-12mm South<br />

Sea pearl with 0.066-carat diamond,<br />

and is available in adjustable lengths<br />

of 50, 60 and 70cm.<br />

Distributed by Ikecho Australia<br />

Smarten up<br />

Russian company Caviar has<br />

revealed a range of bejewelled<br />

smartphone cases for the<br />

Samsung Galaxy S20 model.<br />

Themed around the game<br />

of blackjack, shoppers can<br />

purchase ace or joker-engraved<br />

panels made of gold and onyx.<br />

The most expensive case in the<br />

collection – priced $US40,210 –<br />

features a gold joker relief with<br />

three rubies and sapphires.<br />

VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY<br />

Published by Befindan Media Pty Ltd<br />

Locked Bag 26, South Melbourne, VIC 3205 AUSTRALIA | ABN 66 638 077 648 | Phone: +61 3 9696 7200 | info@jewellermagazine.com<br />

Publisher & Managing Editor Angela Han angela.han@jewellermagazine.com • Assistant Editor Arabella Roden arabella.roden@jewellermagazine.com<br />

Advertising Toli Podolak toli.podolak@jewellermagazine.com • Accounts Paul Blewitt finance@befindanmedia.com • Subscriptions info@jewellermagazine.com<br />

Copyright All material appearing in <strong>Jeweller</strong> is subject to copyright. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly forbidden without prior written consent of the publisher. Befindan Media Pty Ltd<br />

strives to report accurately and fairly and it is our policy to correct significant errors of fact and misleading statements in the next available issue. All statements made, although based on information<br />

believed to be reliable and accurate at the time, cannot be guaranteed and no fault or liability can be accepted for error or omission. Any comment relating to subjective opinions should be addressed<br />

to the editor. Advertising The publisher reserves the right to omit or alter any advertisement to comply with Australian law and the advertiser agrees to indemnify the publisher for all damages or<br />

liabilities arising from the published material.


News<br />

JCK trade shows postponed<br />

due to coronavirus<br />

pandemic<br />

Michael Hill International closes stores<br />

Michael Hill International’s New Zealand<br />

and Canadian stores have also been closed<br />

indefinitely as the pandemic escalates<br />

worldwide. Its online stores will continue<br />

to operate; e-commerce accounts for 3 per<br />

cent of total revenue.<br />

MORE BREAKING NEWS<br />

JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM<br />

JCK Las Vegas is the US’ largest jewellery trade show.<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>y trade shows JCK Las Vegas and<br />

JCK Luxury have been postponed to later in<br />

<strong>2020</strong>, following health and safety advice from<br />

US authorities.<br />

JCK Luxury was due to begin on 31 May, while<br />

JCK Las Vegas – the US’ largest jewellery trade<br />

show – was scheduled for 2–5 June.<br />

Organisers Reed Exhibitions and the Reed Jewelry<br />

Group said the decision was made “after careful<br />

consideration and comprehensive discussions”.<br />

“After consulting with national experts, our<br />

customer, and closely monitoring developments<br />

and reviewing guidance and advice from<br />

renowned national public health officials, the<br />

United States Centers for Disease Control<br />

and Prevention (CDC) and the World Health<br />

Organization (WHO), we have decided it is in<br />

the best interest of all our JCK community to<br />

postpone the show,” a statement read.<br />

While Reed confirmed the show would be<br />

rescheduled, no new dates had been announced<br />

at the time of publication.<br />

The decision to postpone the event was announced<br />

on 18 March, following an increase in the number<br />

of US coronavirus cases to more than 9,000.<br />

By 29 March, the case figure had risen to more<br />

than 124,000, with the US surpassing Italy as<br />

the country with the highest number of active<br />

coronavirus patients.<br />

At the time of publication, there had been<br />

188,000 cases with at least 3,600 fatalities.<br />

In response to the crisis, the US Department of<br />

State has introduced a temporary ban on travel<br />

to the US from China, Iran, the European Union,<br />

Switzerland and the UK, and closed its border<br />

with Canada for non-essential travel.<br />

The US Congress also passed a $US2 trillion<br />

package to support businesses and taxpayers.<br />

On 24 March, the Australian government<br />

announced a ban on all international travel.<br />

Michael Hill has closed stores in Canada, New<br />

Zealand and Australia and stood down staff.<br />

Following the Australian Government’s<br />

guideline for all non-essential stores to cease<br />

trading in order to curb the spread of the<br />

coronavirus, Michael Hill International closed<br />

all 165 Australian stores for an indefinite<br />

period from 23 March.<br />

Australia is the company’s largest market,<br />

accounting for 55 per cent of revenue.<br />

In a statement, the company said it would<br />

“re-open as soon as we are given approval<br />

by government health authorities”.<br />

The company noted a significant “drop off in<br />

trade” in Australia prior to the store closures,<br />

which reflected “a customer base that is, of<br />

course, focused on more immediate issues”.<br />

Nationwide buying group cancels<br />

Noumea conference<br />

The annual Nationwide buying group<br />

members’ conference, which was scheduled<br />

for June, will no longer take place.<br />

The four-day event was to be held at the Le<br />

Meridien Resort & Spa in Noumea, New<br />

Caledonia, and some airfares for members<br />

and suppliers had already been booked.<br />

However, Nationwide <strong>Jeweller</strong>s management<br />

decided to reschedule the event following<br />

travel warnings issued by the Australian and<br />

New Zealand governments, in light of the<br />

ongoing coronavirus pandemic.<br />

Colin Pocklington, managing director<br />

Nationwide <strong>Jeweller</strong>s, said, “In the interests<br />

of the health and safety of members,<br />

suppliers and staff, we have decided to defer<br />

the Noumea conference until May-June 2021.<br />

We will advise a precise date in a few weeks<br />

after discussions with the hotel.”<br />

The event had seen a high volume of member<br />

bookings, exceeding the number that had<br />

signed up for last year’s conference at the<br />

same point.<br />

Crystal Vilkaitis, a US retail marketing<br />

Emma Hill, chair Michael Hill International<br />

board of directors, said, “The board and<br />

management team have acted swiftly today<br />

following the extraordinary circumstances<br />

that are impacting the Australian and New<br />

Zealand retail markets.”<br />

The company confirmed that staff would be<br />

‘stood down’ with full leave entitlements and<br />

its head office in Brisbane would also be<br />

reviewed “with a view to reducing costs”.<br />

It has approximately 2,500 permanent<br />

employees across retail, administration<br />

and manufacturing.<br />

Daniel Bracken, CEO Michael Hill<br />

International, said the company would take<br />

“all necessary actions to reduce our costs...<br />

so that they better match the very subdued<br />

consumer demand in all our markets”.<br />

Michael Hill International’s share price fell<br />

more than 20 per cent on Monday 23 March.<br />

It has deferred payment of dividends.<br />

specialist, was due to give the keynote<br />

presentation and advanced workshops<br />

for members.<br />

Pocklington confirmed that Nationwide<br />

staff were working on transferring prebooked<br />

airfares for members and<br />

suppliers to next year.<br />

At the time of publication, Air Calin flights<br />

had been successfully rebooked at no extra<br />

cost, while changes to Qantas and Air New<br />

Zealand bookings had not been finalised.<br />

Members will be advised as soon as details<br />

are confirmed.<br />

However, Pocklington remained optimistic<br />

for the 2021 conference, which will mark<br />

Nationwide <strong>Jeweller</strong>s’ 30th anniversary.<br />

“Hopefully the world will be back to normal<br />

by mid-2021, and we can look forward to<br />

what should be one of our best conferences<br />

ever in terms of attendance and location.<br />

“This will be a great event to look forward to.”<br />

Nationwide has 399 members across<br />

Australia, New Zealand and Fiji, operating<br />

461 stores.<br />

10 | <strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


Coronavirus forces drastic measures<br />

in watch and jewellery industry<br />

Wuhan, China was once the epicentre of the virus; its streets remain empty.<br />

The coronavirus pandemic has led<br />

to the temporary closure of major<br />

international diamond bourses,<br />

watch and jewellery retailers, and<br />

watch manufacturers.<br />

All four diamond bourses in Antwerp,<br />

Belgium have been closed until<br />

further notice.<br />

Meanwhile, the Israel Diamond<br />

Exchange (IDE) in Ramat Gan has<br />

also closed, with IDE president<br />

Yoram Dvash writing, “We are<br />

working with all the authorities to<br />

ensure we receive a support package<br />

that will enable us to get through this<br />

period successfully.”<br />

The Bharat Diamond Bourse closed<br />

on Friday 20 March and the London<br />

Diamond Bourse on Wednesday<br />

25 March.<br />

De Beers has cancelled its third<br />

sight of <strong>2020</strong> due to travel restrictions<br />

and is enabling sightholders to defer<br />

100 per cent of their allocations to<br />

later in the year.<br />

Meanwhile, Rolex temporarily closed<br />

its three manufacturing plants in<br />

the Swiss cities of Geneva, Bienne<br />

and Cressier in order to contain the<br />

spread of the coronavirus.<br />

Hublot also closed its production<br />

facility, located in the city of Nyon,<br />

“until further notice”, while TAG<br />

Heuer has suspended production<br />

at its Swiss factory.<br />

The Swiss government has declared<br />

an “extraordinary situation” and<br />

banned all private and public<br />

events and closed ‘non-essential’<br />

businesses until at least 19 <strong>April</strong>.<br />

More than 16,000 people have<br />

tested positive for coronavirus<br />

in Switzerland, with at least 400<br />

fatalities.<br />

Across the border in France, luxury<br />

conglomerate Louis-Vuitton Moët<br />

Hennessy SE (LVMH) converted its<br />

perfume and cosmetics factories<br />

to produce hand sanitiser.<br />

France has experienced a shortage<br />

of hand sanitiser amid the worsening<br />

virus crisis, with more than 52,000<br />

confirmed cases.<br />

Meanwhile, Chinese jewellery<br />

company Chow Tai Fook will begin<br />

manufacturing face masks for the<br />

public, at a rate of 200,000 per day,<br />

in <strong>April</strong>.<br />

In the US, LVMH-owned jeweller<br />

Tiffany & Co. has closed several<br />

stores – including its flagship location<br />

on Fifth Avenue in New York City.<br />

The US has surpassed Italy to<br />

become the country with the<br />

highest number of confirmed<br />

coronavirus cases.<br />

Tiffany & Co. is not alone in<br />

closing doors for safety reasons;<br />

all Signet Jewelers-owned stores,<br />

including Zales, Jared, and Kay<br />

Jewelers, have temporarily closed,<br />

as have US locations of Keringowned<br />

Pomellato.<br />

Pandora Jewelry temporarily closed<br />

all its US, UK, Ireland, Italy, Spain,<br />

France and Germany stores, while<br />

Lovisa has shuttered its store<br />

network across Australia, New<br />

Zealand, South Africa, the US, UK,<br />

Spain, France and Malaysia, leaving<br />

only its Singapore stores operating.<br />

Proudly distributed by<br />

02 9417 0177 | www.dgau.com.au


News<br />

In Brief<br />

Alrosa holds digital<br />

diamond tender<br />

Russian mining conglomerate<br />

Alrosa held its first digital large-size<br />

diamond tender from 26 March to<br />

3 <strong>April</strong>. The tender was held online<br />

following the cancellation of its<br />

scheduled international auctions.<br />

The company used advanced<br />

scanning technology to generate<br />

full 3D digital models of each stone.<br />

Mercury-free gold mining<br />

one step closer<br />

A trial of a new mercury-free<br />

gold processing machine has<br />

yielded promising results, according<br />

to non-profit Mercury Free Mining<br />

(MFM). A group of small-scale<br />

miners in Ghana used Goldrop, a<br />

separation processor developed by<br />

a US company, over 10 days. MFM<br />

estimates that 15 million artisanal<br />

miners use mercury to separate<br />

gold from other particles.<br />

Everledger begins<br />

mineral blockchain<br />

Technology company Everledger,<br />

founded by Australian entrepreneur<br />

Leanne Kemp, has expanded<br />

its blockchain-based tracking<br />

platform into rare-earth minerals.<br />

The platform was initially developed<br />

to ensure a fully traceable and<br />

conflict-free diamond supply chain,<br />

and now reportedly tracks 40 per<br />

cent of the diamonds in circulation.<br />

Uncertain future for<br />

Gemfields auctions<br />

Ruby and emerald mining<br />

company Gemfields is unable to<br />

confirm whether its upcoming<br />

gemstone auctions will take place,<br />

due to travel restrictions associated<br />

with the COVID-19 pandemic. Its<br />

most recent emerald auction, held<br />

in Zambia from 18-21 February,<br />

saw 64 per cent of carats sold,<br />

generating $US11.5 million.<br />

I strongly<br />

believe [Paul<br />

Zahra] is more<br />

than capable<br />

of taking the<br />

ARA to the<br />

next level<br />

Russell Zimmerman<br />

Preliminary<br />

drilling at<br />

[the] Hemi<br />

site indicated<br />

it may be the<br />

largest-ever<br />

gold deposit<br />

in the Pilbara<br />

region<br />

New CEO for growing Australian<br />

Retailers Association<br />

Paul Zahra will step into the leadership role in May.<br />

Paul Zahra, former CEO of David Jones, will<br />

take over as CEO of the Australian Retailers<br />

Association (ARA) when executive director<br />

Russell Zimmerman retires in May.<br />

The news of his appointment to the ARA<br />

was announced as 12 major retail chains –<br />

including Woolworths, Bunnings, Chemist<br />

Warehouse, JB Hi-Fi, Super Retail Group,<br />

Costco, Harvey Norman, Priceline and<br />

Australia Post – joined the body.<br />

The ARA has 7,500 members, largely<br />

comprised of small and medium enterprises.<br />

Zimmerman, who had led the ARA for<br />

10 years, indicated his intention to retire<br />

in October 2019.<br />

He expressed support for Zahra’s<br />

appointment, saying, “I strongly believe he is<br />

more than capable of taking the ARA to the<br />

next level as it forges ahead, consolidating<br />

around its mission to provide one voice for<br />

the retail sector in Australia.”<br />

Zahra has worked in the retail industry for<br />

35 years and held senior roles at Officeworks<br />

and Target. He was managing director and<br />

CEO of David Jones from 2010 to 2014,<br />

leading it to its strongest sales in seven years<br />

and growing its digital presence.<br />

Of his appointment to lead the ARA, he said,<br />

“I am optimistic about what lies ahead and<br />

look forward to supporting and advocating for<br />

our members as we overcome challenges,<br />

embrace transformation and evolve with the<br />

customers we serve.”<br />

The Australian retail industry generates $320<br />

billion annually and is the nation’s second<br />

largest employer. Retailers are represented<br />

by two industry bodies – the National<br />

Retailers Association (NRA) and the ARA.<br />

Under Zahra’s leadership, the ARA will<br />

continue its mission to unite the Australian<br />

retail sector and represent its interests to<br />

the government.<br />

Australian mining company strikes gold<br />

in the Pilbara<br />

The Pilbara looks promising for gold exploration.<br />

A West Australian mining company has<br />

discovered a potentially record-breaking deposit<br />

of gold at the Mallina Gold Project, 80km south<br />

of Port Hedland.<br />

De Grey Mining announced that its preliminary<br />

drilling at its Hemi site indicated it may be the<br />

largest-ever gold deposit in the Pilbara region,<br />

in the north-west of Western Australia.<br />

Andy Beckwith, operations manager De Grey<br />

Mining, said drilling at two parallel sites<br />

indicated very promising results.<br />

“With the new reverse circulation drilling, there<br />

is potentially a 200m-wide zone – that’s almost<br />

unheard of,” he said, adding that the site “has<br />

exceptionally wide intersections, we’ve got<br />

mineralisation that is very consistent, and we<br />

are just busily trying to extend them and see<br />

what we have.”<br />

The Mallina results led De Grey Mining’s largest<br />

shareholder, DGO Gold, to invest a further $4.75<br />

million in the company.<br />

De Grey chairman Simon Lill said the move<br />

was “a clear validation from DGO of their belief<br />

in De Grey’s Mallina Gold Project and, more<br />

specifically, the recent Hemi discovery, where<br />

drilling is continuing, and we are seeking to<br />

further grow its size and scale.”<br />

The Pilbara is best known for its iron-rich<br />

deposits and is not considered a premier source<br />

of gold in Australia; each year, it produces less<br />

than half of the gold mined from the Kalgoorlie<br />

Super Pit.<br />

At the time of publication, gold prices were at<br />

$AU2,652.52 per ounce, an increase of 38 per<br />

cent over last year.<br />

12 | <strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


Furore as diamond prices fall; Rapaport<br />

Price List suspended<br />

SAMS GROUP<br />

AUSTRALIA<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

The Rapaport Price List has been suspended for the first time in its history following a member vote.<br />

A revision in the Rapaport Price List,<br />

published on 20 March, prompted<br />

hundreds of sellers to remove their<br />

products from the RapNet trading platform<br />

and vote to suspend the List for the first<br />

time in its history.<br />

RapNet listed prices dropped 5–9 per cent<br />

across most diamond categories.<br />

Rapaport founder and chairman Martin<br />

Rapaport explained that the prices<br />

reflected significant changes in the market<br />

amid the ongoing coronavirus pandemic.<br />

“It is vital that the Rapaport Price List<br />

reflects the realities of the market even<br />

when such realities are not pleasant or<br />

welcome,” he explained.<br />

“We cannot protect the market from price<br />

changes and must maintain the credibility<br />

of our price information.”<br />

He added, “Buyers require and expect<br />

Rapaport to reflect the lower price realities<br />

of the market. We cannot misrepresent<br />

prices for the benefit of sellers, and we<br />

must not mislead buyers.”<br />

The price changes significantly devalued<br />

the inventory of RapNet’s more than<br />

7,000 members, with one describing it as<br />

“thoughtless” and “miscalculated”.<br />

Shortly after the new prices were<br />

published, protesting members created an<br />

Instagram account, @stock_off_rapnet, to<br />

encourage companies to withdraw their<br />

goods from the platform.<br />

At the time of publication, the Instagram<br />

account had more than 2,100 followers and<br />

had published the logos of 700 companies<br />

that had removed their stock from RapNet.<br />

Some announced their defection to rival<br />

trading platforms, such as IDEX, which<br />

publishes real-time pricing information<br />

updated hourly. Its Diamond Index<br />

indicated polished diamond prices fell on<br />

average 2–4 per cent from 1 to 23 March.<br />

Meanwhile, other RapNet members have<br />

requested that the 20 March Rapaport<br />

Price List be recalled and for further Price<br />

Lists to be suspended until 1 May.<br />

Martin Rapaport confirmed the List would<br />

be suspended following a member vote,<br />

in which 72 per cent were in favour. He<br />

called the suspension “an extraordinary<br />

step we are taking as an act of solidarity<br />

with the trade”.<br />

Meanwhile, the World Federation of<br />

Diamond Bourses (WFDB) has announced<br />

it will develop its own online diamond<br />

trading platform for all bourse members.<br />

The platform will be “created with the<br />

needs of WFDB members in mind and<br />

backed by the peace of mind that comes<br />

with knowing that every transaction<br />

will be protected by the WFDB’s<br />

unparalleled and unique arbitration<br />

system,” according to a statement from<br />

the WFDB executive committee.<br />

Ernie Blom, president WFDB, said,<br />

“If there is any silver lining and benefit<br />

to COVID-19, it has taught us that all<br />

diamond bourses should come together,<br />

promote and facilitate the diamond trade<br />

in order for members of every bourse to<br />

trade freely with one another and to feel<br />

safe while doing so.”<br />

While the WFDB platform is being<br />

developed, the Israel Diamond Institute<br />

has opened its Get Diamonds international<br />

trading service to WFDB-affiliated<br />

bourse members.<br />

We cannot<br />

misrepresent<br />

prices for<br />

<br />

of sellers,<br />

and we must<br />

not mislead<br />

buyers<br />

Martin Rapaport<br />

Diamond<br />

bourses<br />

should come<br />

together,<br />

promote and<br />

facilitate the<br />

trade in order<br />

for members<br />

... to trade<br />

freely with<br />

one another<br />

Ernie Blom<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

E pink@samsgroup.com.au<br />

W samsgroup.com.au<br />

P 02 9290 2199


10 Years Ago<br />

Time Machine: <strong>April</strong> 2010<br />

A snapshot of the industry events making headlines this time 10 years ago in <strong>Jeweller</strong>.<br />

Historic Headlines<br />

Marketing assault for Bulova<br />

GIA launches virtual gem museum<br />

Grand Seiko goes international<br />

New labels for ‘synthetic’ diamonds<br />

Unrest at NCJV<br />

ACCC acts against retailer<br />

STILL RELEVANT 10 YEARS ON<br />

Bright Future: Coloured gemstones<br />

often provide a price-friendly<br />

alternative for shoppers... [There’s]<br />

a need to better educate consumers<br />

and retailers on the diversity of<br />

stones available and their<br />

various qualities<br />

READ ALL HEADLINES IN FULL ON<br />

JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM<br />

Following an Australian Competition and<br />

Consumer Commission (ACCC) ruling against a<br />

Sydney jeweller, news emerged that the same<br />

jeweller received numerous warnings about<br />

potential breaches of the Trade Practices Act from<br />

the <strong>Jeweller</strong>s Association of Australia (JAA).<br />

The ACCC ordered Sydney jewellery retailer<br />

Australian Opal Cutters to remove misleading<br />

advertising after the company repeatedly referred<br />

to ‘normal retail price’ in its promotions from<br />

December 2005 to March 2009.<br />

“The ACCC believes the market research did not<br />

provide a sufficient basis upon which a ‘normal<br />

retail price’ could be accurately determined or<br />

quoted,” ACCC acting chairman Peter Kell said.<br />

Ian Hadassin, JAA CEO, said, “The JAA<br />

encourages and supports discounting so long<br />

as the discounts offered are honest and real.”<br />

Insurance industry challenged<br />

The <strong>Jeweller</strong>s Association of Australia (JAA)<br />

intends to raise issues relevant to jewellery with<br />

the Insurance Council of Australia as part of a<br />

raft of consultations it has begun with individual<br />

insurance companies across the country.<br />

Issues under investigation include how to educate<br />

jewellery retailers to best deal with insurance<br />

claims from a customer, as well as the possibility<br />

of breaches to the Trade Practices Act (TPA) by<br />

insurers, such as exclusive dealing.<br />

The JAA is also working on helping retailers<br />

to understand how price limits in insurance<br />

policies work.<br />

<strong>April</strong> 2010<br />

ON THE COVER Skagen Denmark<br />

Editors’ Desk<br />

1800-SALES-REP: “Boy, I wish I had a<br />

dollar for every time I’ve been asked,<br />

‘Do you know a good sales rep looking<br />

for a job?’ I’d be a very rich man sitting<br />

on a beach somewhere...<br />

I learnt a long time ago that the<br />

person you want to employ is not the<br />

one looking for a job. ‘Good sales reps<br />

are rare,’ I often say, ‘and when they<br />

are good, everyone wants them.’”<br />

Soapbox<br />

The Magnificent Black:<br />

“If opals lose their place in the<br />

market, it won’t just mean a loss<br />

of sales, and therefore profits, for<br />

Australian jewellers; it will mean<br />

the loss of millions of dollars for the<br />

Australian economy…<br />

The miners, wholesalers and<br />

retailers of opal must come together<br />

and amass knowledge and money<br />

to start advertising and growing the<br />

market. Either that, or we can simply<br />

sit back and pray for it to happen.”<br />

– J-Peter Hooshmand, director<br />

Cosmopolitan <strong>Jeweller</strong>s<br />

Nationwide braces for<br />

record payout<br />

Nationwide <strong>Jeweller</strong>s has announced that it<br />

is expecting to make a record reward payment<br />

to members as part of the buying group’s <strong>2020</strong><br />

annual conference at Port Douglas in June.<br />

Based on the expected record attendance,<br />

the group will be rebating in excess of $200,000<br />

to members, according to managing director<br />

Colin Pocklington.<br />

The buying group has also announced plans<br />

to introduce a financial assistance scheme<br />

for apprentices employed by members of<br />

the group.<br />

Baselworld opens on a<br />

positive note<br />

In a marked contrast to last year, Baselworld<br />

was abuzz with confidence. Although cautious,<br />

organisers said there were positive signs as<br />

1,915 exhibitors from 45 countries attended.<br />

The numbers were good news for Baselworld<br />

managing director, Sylvie Ritter. There was a<br />

net loss of around 30 exhibitors.<br />

“Baselworld is fully booked. We have the<br />

same number of exhibitors as we had in<br />

2009 and this has remained unchanged for<br />

several years,” announced Ritter at the media<br />

conference. She called the 2009 economy<br />

“challenging” but predicted 2010 would<br />

“reveal a revitalised industry.”<br />

14 | <strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


INSIDE<br />

My Store<br />

The Diamond Shop<br />

AUCKLAND, NEW ZEALAND with Jemma Smith, marketing manager • SPACE COMPLETED May 2018<br />

Who is the target market?<br />

The Diamond Shop’s target market varies greatly,<br />

from young women approaching milestones<br />

such as birthdays or graduation, to older couples<br />

looking for meaningful anniversary gifts for their<br />

significant other.<br />

The store interior is modern and minimal, which<br />

was influenced by our younger customers.<br />

However, it is also comfortable and welcoming;<br />

like stepping into someone’s home, you can<br />

happily stay for an extended visit and share a<br />

coffee or tea with us in our lounge area. This<br />

aspect greatly appeals to our customers who<br />

belong to older generations.<br />

Which features encourage sales?<br />

The minimal colour palette complements our<br />

products yet is subtle enough to truly let the<br />

jewellery and diamonds shine.<br />

The amount of space and lack of clutter allows<br />

the customer to really focus on the jewellery.<br />

The home-like feel also allows visitors to feel<br />

welcome and special.<br />

Meanwhile, the lounge area is a place where we<br />

can comfortably have in-depth conversations and<br />

gain our customers’ trust, which often progresses<br />

into a friendship.<br />

What is the store design’s ‘wow factor’?<br />

The striking light designs throughout the<br />

showroom capture many visitors’ attention.<br />

Their modern and minimal design represents<br />

The Diamond Shop conceptually, and they<br />

are the perfect cherry on the cake of our<br />

stunning space.<br />

Photography: Ross Honeysett<br />

<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 15


Behind every gemstone,<br />

there is a fascinating story<br />

waiting to delight clients<br />

around the world. Studying<br />

with GAA brings the<br />

expertise, networking and<br />

confidence to build a solid<br />

career in a multimilliondollar<br />

industry. Joining<br />

one of the most supportive<br />

and passionate professional<br />

communities of gemmologists<br />

in Australia was one of the<br />

best decision I ever made.<br />

Gina Barreto FGAA DipDT<br />

Gemmologist and Diamond Technologist<br />

Diamond<br />

Courses<br />

Practical Diamond Grading<br />

Advanced Practical Diamond Grading<br />

Diploma in Diamond Technology<br />

Enrolments now open<br />

For more information<br />

1300 436 338<br />

learn@gem.org.au<br />

www.gem.org.au<br />

Be<br />

Confident<br />

Gem-Ed Australia<br />

ADELAIDE BRISBANE HOBART MELBOURNE PERTH SYDNEY<br />

Passionately educating the industry, gem enthusiasts<br />

and consumers about gemstones


LEARN ABOUT<br />

Gems<br />

Synthetic Moissanite<br />

L to R: Raw synthetic moissanite material before being grown. Source: Alibaba | Cut and set moissanite Source: Diamond Boutique<br />

Synthetic moissanite is marketed by<br />

the jewellery industry as an affordable<br />

diamond alternative. Named after Nobel<br />

Prize winner and French chemist Henri<br />

Moissan, moissanite in its natural form<br />

is a rare mineral, silicon carbide.<br />

In 1893, while inspecting minerals from an<br />

Arizona meteor crash site, Moissan initially<br />

thought he was looking at fragments of<br />

diamonds. It wasn’t until 1904 that he<br />

correctly identified the samples as being<br />

silicon carbide.<br />

It was an understandable mistake, given<br />

the testing instruments of the time.<br />

Too rare in nature to meet the demand<br />

from various industries, moissanite was<br />

synthesised in the early 20th Century for<br />

applications similar to those of diamond: as<br />

an industrial abrasive and cutting material.<br />

With hardness of 9.25 on Mohs’ scale<br />

and the capacity to withstand extreme<br />

pressure – both essential properties for<br />

use in industry – synthetic moissanite was<br />

a cheaper resource than diamond and one<br />

that could be readily created in quantity.<br />

The properties that made moissanite<br />

of value in electronic circuitry and highpressure<br />

testing, eventually captured<br />

the interest of the jewellery industry.<br />

Hardness and durability, plus moissanite’s<br />

high dispersion – 0.104 compared to<br />

diamond’s 0.044 – when faceted, made the<br />

synthetic material an ideal alternative<br />

to natural diamond.<br />

Synthetic (laboratory-grown) moissanite<br />

was introduced to the jewellery world by<br />

American firm Charles & Colvard in 1998<br />

under several brands, namely Forever<br />

One, Forever Brilliant and Forever Classic.<br />

There are now other manufacturers and<br />

a range of trademarked names.<br />

Without access to specialised gemmological<br />

instruments, distinguishing synthetic<br />

moissanite from diamond requires a<br />

trained eye.<br />

Colourless laboratory-grown moissanite<br />

ranges from D to K on the GIA Diamond<br />

Colour Scale.<br />

Gems within I to J and below on the colour<br />

scale, although still technically ‘colourless’,<br />

may display a faint yellow, grey or greenish<br />

tinge.<br />

Laboratory-grown moissanite can display<br />

a rainbow-like ‘flash’ in natural light due<br />

to its high dispersion.<br />

Some laboratory-grown moissanite will<br />

have a whitish appearance compared<br />

with a diamond.<br />

With bright vitreous lustre and an eyeclean<br />

appearance, the task of separating<br />

laboratory-grown moissanite from<br />

diamond might be considered difficult.<br />

Moissanite<br />

Pronounced moy-sanite,<br />

from the name<br />

of French chemist<br />

Henri Moissan.<br />

Often marketed as<br />

affordable diamond<br />

alternative.<br />

Colour: Colourless<br />

but usually tinged<br />

with a greenish hue<br />

compared to diamonds<br />

Found in: US, Turkey,<br />

Russia – though<br />

usually synthesised<br />

Mohs Hardness: 9.25<br />

Class: Silicon carbide<br />

Lustre: Adamantine<br />

to metallic<br />

Formula: SiC 2<br />

However, with the aid of a 10X loupe,<br />

this is a relatively easy task.<br />

Laboratory-grown moissanite often shows<br />

fine whiteish needle–like inclusions. Look<br />

for these through the table. Laboratory<br />

grown moissanite will also show double<br />

refraction; this feature is an obvious<br />

indication you are not looking at a diamond,<br />

which is a singly refractive gem.<br />

To observe double refraction, using the<br />

loupe, look through the table towards the<br />

culet and you will see doubling of the facet<br />

junctions. Still looking through the table,<br />

focus on the girdle; doubling will be obvious.<br />

Unlike a diamond’s sharp facet edges,<br />

those of laboratory grown moissanite<br />

will be rounded and less sharp.<br />

For customers seeking an affordable<br />

diamond alternative, laboratory-grown<br />

moissanite is a good choice.<br />

It has more fire, is harder and is more<br />

durable than other alternatives, such<br />

as cubic zirconia and natural gems like<br />

colourless zircon or sapphire.<br />

Susan Hartwig FGAA combines her love<br />

for writing with a passion for gems and<br />

jewellery through her gemmology blog,<br />

ellysiagems.com. For more information<br />

on gemmology courses and gemstones,<br />

visit gem.org.au<br />

<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 17


STRATEGY FEATURE<br />

Surviving Coronavirus<br />

COPING with CORONAVIRUS:<br />

BUSINESS SURVIVAL GUIDE<br />

As COVID-19 continues to spread across Australia, it is imperative for business owners to prepare for the months<br />

ahead. ARABELLA RODEN looks to retail experts around the world for strategies on trading in these unexpected<br />

<br />

In less than two months, the coronavirus<br />

pandemic has caused widespread<br />

upheaval across every sector of the<br />

Australian economy.<br />

At the time of publication, the number<br />

of cases stood at more than 4,700, with<br />

20 deaths. According to modelling by<br />

PricewaterhouseCoopers (PWC), the virus<br />

could reduce Australia’s Gross Domestic<br />

Product (GDP) by $34.2 billion over the<br />

next 12 months.<br />

The disruption to the retail sector, in<br />

particular, cannot be overstated, with<br />

PWC estimating household consumption<br />

could fall by $37.9 billion.<br />

Indeed, the Australian Retailers<br />

Association (ARA) noted that footfall<br />

had begun to decrease in February.<br />

By mid-March, major shopping precincts<br />

including Brisbane’s Queen Street Mall<br />

and Bourke Street Mall in Melbourne<br />

were all but empty.<br />

According to ShopperTrak, foot traffic in<br />

shopping centres fell 46 per cent in the<br />

third week of March when compared with<br />

the same period in 2019.<br />

Consumers appeared to have heeded<br />

the advice of state and federal<br />

governments to stay home unless<br />

shopping for necessities, such as<br />

groceries and medicine.<br />

Meanwhile, store owners struggled with<br />

new regulations on social distancing<br />

within their premises. The changes<br />

lead a number of major retailers to<br />

pre-emptively close their store networks<br />

indefinitely.<br />

Among them were department store<br />

Myer, fashion retailers Country Road<br />

and Cotton On, and jewellery retailers<br />

Michael Hill Australia and Lovisa.<br />

Notably, Solomon Lew’s Premier<br />

Investments – which owns brands<br />

Smiggle, Dotti, Just Jeans, and Peter<br />

QUICK<br />

NUMBERS<br />

6<br />

Months<br />

predicted<br />

of business<br />

hibernation<br />

$319b<br />

Government and<br />

Reserve Bank<br />

stimulus spending<br />

11-18<br />

Months predicted<br />

until the start<br />

of economic<br />

recovery<br />

Alexander, among others – closed<br />

more than 900 stores for four weeks,<br />

refusing to pay rent for the duration of<br />

the shutdown. Lew has also closed his<br />

family-owned retail chains NineWest,<br />

French Connection, and Seed.<br />

Indeed, rising occupancy costs have<br />

been a significant challenge for retailers,<br />

particularly following the sluggish<br />

trading figures of 2019.<br />

In order to support retailers, the National<br />

Cabinet has declared a six-month<br />

moritorium on rental evictions.<br />

The Prime Minister has also advised<br />

businesses, lenders and landlords to<br />

negotiate in order to reduce mortgage<br />

and lease payments until conditions<br />

return to normal. “We’re asking<br />

businesses to adapt to what is not<br />

a usual set of circumstances,” he said.<br />

“They must be sustainable because<br />

they will run for, we believe, at<br />

18 | <strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


GET PRODUCTIVE<br />

Retail Action<br />

List<br />

least six months and we want to be able to get<br />

everybody through.”<br />

Banks are expected to defer mortgage repayments<br />

for home-owners, investment property landlords, and<br />

businesses, for six months.<br />

In addition, Parliament has passed a raft of measures<br />

to assist businesses and individuals who have been<br />

impacted by the crisis. At the time of publication, the<br />

total spending, combined with Reserve Bank measures,<br />

stood at $319 billion.<br />

Crucially, the Morrison Government included increases<br />

to Centrelink-based income support payments, as well<br />

as a $1,500 fortnightly payment, known as JobKeeper,<br />

for employers who retain workers throughout the sixmonth<br />

‘hibernation’ period.<br />

The measures are particularly pertinent to the retail<br />

industry, in which thousands of sales and support staff<br />

have been ‘stood down’ without pay or made redundant.<br />

In addition, other sectors such as travel have been<br />

forced to suspend services due to restrictions and safety<br />

concerns. As a result, once-secure companies such<br />

as Qantas have put in place large-scale redundancies,<br />

leaving thousands of full-time workers suddenly jobless.<br />

Westpac chief economist Bill Evans estimates the<br />

number of unemployed people in Australia will rise by<br />

814,000 within months, leading the unemployment rate<br />

to more than double, from 5.1 per cent to 11.1 per cent.<br />

Where do we go from here?<br />

According to experts, patience is the most critical factor<br />

in developing a survival strategy for the pandemic.<br />

“For all the drama of collapsing output, demand, and<br />

jobs in Australia and many economies around the<br />

globe, we should expect that output in most countries<br />

will begin to recover once new coronavirus infections<br />

peak and head down,” writes John Edwards, adjunct<br />

professor at the John Curtin Institue of Public Policy,<br />

Curtin University in a recent article published by the<br />

Lowy Institute. “It will not be soon, but it will happen,”<br />

he adds.<br />

For retail business owners, the priorities are health and<br />

safety, cashflow, financing and debt management, and<br />

communication. There are three key steps business<br />

owners should take:<br />

1. Remain up to date with the latest information<br />

and health advice from the Australian Government<br />

Department of Health, as well as state and territory<br />

authorities.<br />

2. Mitigate transmission of the virus by altering<br />

everyday business processes, following stringent<br />

hygiene practices, and limiting non-essential contact.<br />

3. Keep employees informed of changes to processes<br />

within the business and link them to relevant<br />

information, such as official health and safety advice,<br />

workplace entitlements, and travel restrictions.<br />

Take time to gather your<br />

thoughts. Turn panic into<br />

productivity<br />

Schedule your tasklist,<br />

negotiate leases, focus on<br />

minimising costs and update<br />

your web presence<br />

It’s time for that big store<br />

clean! Get your gloves on<br />

and get disinfecting<br />

Implement strict new<br />

hygiene policies for staff<br />

and customers<br />

Keep countertops, benches,<br />

mirrors, registers and all<br />

surfaces sterilised<br />

Disinfect floor stock and<br />

clean jewellery while<br />

completing a full stocktake<br />

CREATING A VIRUS-FREE ENVIRONMENT<br />

HYGIENE & STORE<br />

MAINTENANCE<br />

How is coronavirus spread?<br />

• Surfaces – the most frequent means of transmission:<br />

The virus is known to primarily spread via droplets from an<br />

infected person landing on surrounding surfaces. Other people<br />

catch COVID-19 by touching contaminated surfaces, then<br />

touching their eyes, nose or mouth, allowing the virus to enter<br />

their respiratory system.<br />

• Airborne – can be minimised with social distancing:<br />

When you sneeze or cough, you generate more droplets.<br />

Standing too close to a sneezing infected person means you<br />

could then directly breathe in the droplets they have coughed<br />

or sneezed into the air.<br />

• Virus lifespan: Recent published research found that the<br />

virus can survive for hours – and in some cases days – outside<br />

a host, depending on the type of surface it has landed on.<br />

Viable virus particles – those which are still able to cause<br />

disease – were detected for up to 72 hours on stainless steel<br />

and plastic surfaces, but no longer than 24 hours on cardboard,<br />

and four hours on copper.<br />

How do I stop my store from contamination?<br />

The virus is commonly transferred by hand-to-face touching,<br />

after contact with contaminated surfaces. Therefore, one of<br />

the most effective ways to minimise the spread is to prevent<br />

surface contamination.<br />

The rule is, ‘First clean, then disinfect.’<br />

STEP 1: Cleaning refers to the removal of germs, dirt, and<br />

impurities from surfaces. It doesn’t kill germs but can<br />

reduce their numbers and prepare surface for disinfection.<br />

STEP 2: Disinfecting refers to using chemicals to kill germs<br />

on surfaces. This process does not necessarily clean dirty<br />

surfaces or remove the dead germs.<br />

Essential processes:<br />

Wipe down items delivered or brought into the store<br />

Clean all jewellery that has been shown to a customer<br />

Regularly wash your hands thoroughly with soap for<br />

20 seconds<br />

Frequently clean and disinfect high-touch surfaces such<br />

as doorknobs, light switches, handles and benches,<br />

counters, windows, transaction equipment, and phones<br />

Which cleaning products work best?<br />

Detergents first break down the layers of dirt and dust to allow<br />

disinfectants to work. Experts advise that both a detergent,<br />

such as soap, and disinfectant, such as bleach, are required.<br />

Ensure disinfection products are left on long enough to work.<br />

For simple cleaning, hot, soapy water is ideal. Always wear<br />

gloves throughout cleaning process<br />

Effective disinfectants include diluted bleach, those with an<br />

alcohol content above 71 per cent, and hydrogen peroxide<br />

Delicate surfaces, such as soft furnishings, should be<br />

wiped down with soapy water and then steam-cleaned<br />

If you have windows, try to flush clean air through<br />

your workspace<br />

<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | | 19


STRATEGY FEATURE | Coronavirus Survival Guide<br />

TURNING PANIC INTO PRODUCTIVITY<br />

SHARPEN YOUR TOOLS:<br />

EDUCATION & IMPROVEMENT<br />

The six-month period of ‘hibernation’ presents an opportunity<br />

for store owners to reassess their business and improve their<br />

skills in a number of areas.<br />

Perhaps the most important skill within the current business<br />

climate is e-commerce and digital communication. Retail<br />

jewellers can contact their buying group or refer to the<br />

Australian Retailers Association (ARA) website.<br />

Improve Business Management Skills<br />

E-commerce: While e-commerce currently accounts for just<br />

10 per cent of Australian consumer spending, the figure has<br />

risen significantly year-on-year and will be the primary channel<br />

of purchase for most consumers over the next six months.<br />

Buying groups and all-in-one services such as Squarespace<br />

and Wix can provide efficient and low-cost education and set up<br />

of e-commerce stores, or integration with an existing site.<br />

Marketing: Marketing is not simply advertising or public<br />

relations; instead, it uses analytical methods to determine the<br />

best ways to maximise sales and ensure consumers desire,<br />

seek, find, and purchase products. Now is an excellent time<br />

for businesses to reassess and recalibrate their marketing<br />

strategy for the next six months – and beyond.<br />

Sales: Though businesses are likely to be in hibernation for<br />

the next six months, sales techniques can still be learnt and<br />

applied. Connecting with customers and closing sales through<br />

digital channels such as social media or through web chat<br />

requires a different skill-set than in-person sales. Software<br />

solutions like Podium can help you to manage communication<br />

with your customers, as well as business reviews on Google.<br />

Management: Managing staff remotely through services<br />

such as Zoom or Skype can be difficult. At the same time, a<br />

crisis is a critical period for leadership. Managers should use<br />

this time to research ways to boost morale and support their<br />

team, as well as lead by example in customer service.<br />

Improve Trade Skills<br />

CAD / CAM: Once touted as disruptive technology, CAD/CAM<br />

and 3D-printing have now become mainstream with some<br />

customers even bringing their own printed waxes to jewellers.<br />

Businesses need to stay ahead of their customers, so now is<br />

the time to brush up on those Rhino skills!<br />

Gemmological Classes: Always been great with<br />

jewellery design but wanted to fill your skill gap with<br />

gemstone knowledge? Online courses are available with the<br />

Gemmological Association of Australia (GAA) and Gemological<br />

Institute of America (GIA).<br />

Trade Media: Brush up on business know-how, industry<br />

news and jewellery trends by accessing your trade media<br />

website. <strong>Jeweller</strong>magazine.com has more than 7,350 articles<br />

compiled over 12 years, including valuable sales and business<br />

management advice.<br />

Read comprehensive business articles on these topics in<br />

the Tips On Selling, Logged On, and Management sections<br />

of jewellermagazine.com.<br />

FEDERAL<br />

GOVERNMENT<br />

Financial<br />

Support<br />

$20,000 – $100,000<br />

Cash payment<br />

from 28 <strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

Under the enhanced<br />

Boosting Cash Flow for<br />

Employers measure,<br />

eligible businesses will<br />

receive the payment as<br />

a credit from the ATO<br />

upon lodging upcoming<br />

activity statements<br />

(monthly or quarterly).<br />

A bonus payment equal<br />

to the first payment<br />

will be made to eligible<br />

businesses following the<br />

lodgment of June, July,<br />

August and September<br />

activity statements,<br />

provided they continue<br />

to operate.<br />

$10,000 – $50,000<br />

Cash payment<br />

from 28 <strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

Under the enhanced<br />

Boosting Cash Flow for<br />

Employers measure,<br />

eligible businesses that<br />

withold tax to the ATO<br />

on employee salaries<br />

and wages will receive<br />

a payment equal to<br />

100 per cent of the<br />

amount witheld, to a<br />

maximum of $50,000.<br />

Eligible employers that<br />

pay salary and wages<br />

will receive a minimum<br />

payment of $10,000,<br />

even if they are not<br />

required to withhold tax.<br />

$1,500 fortnightly<br />

JobKeeper payment<br />

<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

Businesses that have<br />

seen a 30 per cent<br />

decline in turnover<br />

due to COVID-19 may<br />

be eligible for a $1,500<br />

fortnightly subsidy<br />

to retain employees<br />

(full-time, part-time,<br />

or casual). Employers<br />

must register for the<br />

JobKeeper scheme<br />

with the ATO.<br />

Under Australian law, business owners are required to<br />

ensure the health and safety of employees and others<br />

in the workplace ‘so far as is reasonably practicable’.<br />

According to Safe Work Australia, this means business<br />

owners must identify and eliminate, or minimise, hazards<br />

and risks (see breakout ‘Hygiene & Store Maintenance’).<br />

Financial support<br />

At the same time, retail business owners should seek<br />

financial assistance, as social distancing and hibernation<br />

measures are unlikely to be relaxed for at least six<br />

months. The Treasury has set up a dedicated page and<br />

support service for businesses, which can be found at<br />

treasury.gov.au/coronavirus/businesses.<br />

As part of its stimulus spending package, the federal<br />

government announced that owners of small and medium<br />

businesses – those with annual turnover under $50 million<br />

– with employees may be eligible for the Australian<br />

Government’s Boosting Cash Flow for Employers measure.<br />

It will provide a payment of $20,000–$100,000. Another<br />

payment will be made between July and October.<br />

Employers may also be eligible for a payment equal to 100<br />

per cent of their salary and wages withheld, up to $50,000.<br />

Further financial support measures, including an increase<br />

to the instant asset write-off and Commonwealthguaranteed<br />

loans, have been introduced.<br />

In addition, small businesses employing fewer than 20<br />

full-time employees can apply for a 50 per cent wage<br />

subsidy for current apprentices and trainees. Details<br />

are available from the Treasury’s dedicated page.<br />

Meanwhile, Treasurer Josh Frydenberg announced the<br />

JobKeeper wage subsidy system for full-time employees,<br />

telling Sky News, “[It’s] about what we will do to support<br />

employers and employees and this is all about ensuring<br />

that people can continue to remain in jobs.”<br />

He clarified that JobKeeper does not mimic the UK’s<br />

‘80 per cent wage guarantee’.<br />

Instead, a $1,500 fortnightly payment will be made to<br />

employers who opt into the scheme through the<br />

Australian Taxation Office (ATO).<br />

They will then pay the sum to employees, allowing them<br />

to retain those staff throughout hibernation.<br />

Earlier this month, Frydenberg said, “The economy<br />

is actually in a position of strength to respond [to the<br />

coronavirus pandemic]... We will get over this and when<br />

we’re over this we want to be stronger and we want to<br />

be more productive as a nation.”<br />

State governments have also taken action to support<br />

businesses. In Victoria, Premier Daniel Andrews<br />

announced a $1.7 billion assistance package.<br />

It includes payroll tax refunds, waivers and deferments,<br />

immediate payment of government invoices, and providing<br />

a ‘rent holiday’ for tenants of government-owned buildings.<br />

20 20 | | <strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


FREE<br />

SUPPORT SERVICES FOR<br />

INDEPENDENT JEWELLERS<br />

No joining fee • No agency fee • no security deposits<br />

no fees ever!<br />

• Marketing • Sales Training • Business Planning<br />

• Industry experts at your fingertips<br />

Up to $200,000 interest free finance for stock<br />

- STAY 100% INDEPENDENT -<br />

the largest network with over 450 jewellery stores<br />

P: +61 2 9418 0000<br />

E: info@jgbs.com<br />

www.jgbs.com<br />

<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 21


STRATEGY FEATURE | Coronavirus Survival Guide<br />

INVENTORY REVIEW<br />

7 STOCK MANAGEMENT TIPS<br />

When developing a strategy to sustain a retail jewellery<br />

business throughout the coronavirus pandemic, stock<br />

management is a critical component.<br />

1<br />

2<br />

3<br />

4<br />

5<br />

6<br />

7<br />

As a first step in these uncertain times, it is essential<br />

that customers are immediately contacted once<br />

repairs and custom makes are completed; these<br />

items can then be collected from the store or<br />

delivered to the customer’s home.<br />

Store owners can then contact suppliers to discuss<br />

flexible terms, deals or discounts that may be offered<br />

to assist them.<br />

Buying groups are also an essential source of<br />

information and practical support, including stock<br />

assessments and assistance in transitioning to an<br />

e-commerce business.<br />

A complete stocktake should be conducted with items<br />

prepared for listing online.<br />

Employees may be directed to take clear, high-quality<br />

photographs and write engaging descriptions with<br />

accurate keywords to help boost SEO.<br />

In addition, old stock including gold jewellery and<br />

excess findings may be sent for smelting to a<br />

trusted refiner.<br />

As part of the stocktake, retailers should identify<br />

bestsellers and analyse margins to create a list<br />

of items that should be kept in stock.<br />

Meanwhile, the Australian Retailers Association (ARA)<br />

advises that operators of multi-store, omnichannel<br />

businesses can “fulfil online orders from stores that<br />

are struggling to shift their stock, meeting increased<br />

demand online at the same time”.<br />

The ARA also advises stores to accept backorders<br />

online for out of stock items, offering customers a date<br />

for fulfilment.<br />

While retailers may be tempted to hold a sale, “Now is<br />

not the time to go deep into heavy discounting, unless it<br />

was old inventory that has had a long shelf life,” cautions<br />

Jackie LeBental, founder Barri Luxury Consulting.<br />

Customers may be focused on other priorities, such<br />

as stocking up for emergencies, making a sale less<br />

effective and eroding brand value in the long-term.<br />

“[Retailers] have a brand image they should be trying<br />

to preserve,” LeBental explains.<br />

There are many advantages to carrying stock as an<br />

e-commerce retailer. One is customer service – retailers<br />

can process orders as soon as they are placed, and give<br />

extremely accurate information on shipping times as well<br />

as negotiate shipping rates. Additionally, product returns<br />

and repairs are more efficient.<br />

Marketing is also simpler, as carrying stock allows<br />

retailers to run sales and promotional activity – for<br />

example, holding competitions – at any time. However,<br />

it is important not to overstock and some retailers may<br />

prefer a partial drop-shipping model to keep costs low.<br />

EXPERT ADVICE<br />

Retail Priorities<br />

Jackie LeBental<br />

Barri Luxury Consulting<br />

Founder<br />

“Now is not the time<br />

to go deep into heavy<br />

discounting, unless it was<br />

old inventory that has had<br />

a long shelf life.<br />

Retailers, just like<br />

jewellery designers,<br />

have a brand image<br />

they should be trying<br />

preserve.”<br />

Nathan Bush<br />

12High<br />

Founder<br />

“Rather than stress<br />

our teams or push them<br />

harder to meet slipping<br />

sales targets, we need<br />

to prioritise looking<br />

after them. They are<br />

our number-one<br />

priority.”<br />

John Kennedy<br />

Jewelers Security Alliance<br />

President<br />

“A lot of people don’t<br />

put all their things away<br />

every night, they feel<br />

it’s too much work, or<br />

sometimes they will leave<br />

low-priced items out. But<br />

you can’t leave things<br />

out in a showcase for a<br />

month. Lock them in a<br />

safe or vault. If you don’t<br />

put everything away,<br />

you become a magnet<br />

for crime.”<br />

Russell Zimmerman, executive director Australian<br />

Retailers Association (ARA), said, “The ARA welcomes<br />

the Victorian initiative, and I’d like to thank the Premier<br />

on behalf of retailers.<br />

“The COVID-19 outbreak will impose unprecedented<br />

and perhaps existential challenges on small and medium<br />

retail businesses; the measures the Premier has<br />

announced this morning bring major and welcome<br />

relief to our sector.”<br />

In putting together a financial strategy, retailers must also<br />

take into account that their business insurance policy is<br />

unlikely to assist them.<br />

That is because most insurers and re-insurers exclude<br />

business disruption arising from diseases notifiable under<br />

the Quarantine Act 1908 or the Biosecurity Act 2015 – of<br />

which COVID-19 is one – from policies.<br />

Additionally, if a retailer decides to temporarily close their<br />

store, they are required by the Duty of Disclosure section<br />

of the Insurance Contracts Act (1984) to notify the insurer.<br />

Unoccupied property can be at higher risk of vandalism,<br />

break-ins, or water damage, meaning insurance claims<br />

could be invalidated if the insurer is not kept informed of<br />

an unoccupancy period. Most insurers extend full coverage<br />

for several months of unoccupancy.<br />

For jewellery stores, the risk of break-in and theft during<br />

periods of closure is more elevated.<br />

It’s strongly suggested that jewellers look<br />

into installing remote surveillance systems<br />

where they can monitor live store security<br />

camera footage from home.<br />

If the business is closing for an extended period of time,<br />

store owners are also advised to secure product in a safe<br />

or vault, rather than a showcase.<br />

John Kennedy, president of the Jewelers Security<br />

Alliance in the US, says, “A lot of people don’t put all their<br />

things away every night, they feel it’s too much work, or<br />

sometimes they will leave low-priced items out. But you<br />

can’t leave things out in a showcase for a month. Lock<br />

them in a safe or vault. If you don’t put everything away,<br />

you become a magnet for crime.”<br />

One advantage of strict social distancing restrictions is<br />

that crime tends to be reduced, as police can more easily<br />

patrol areas and identify suspicious activity.<br />

Experts caution against bringing jewellery items home<br />

for safekeeping, as this can make jewellers a target for<br />

residential burglaries.<br />

If operating an e-commerce business from home, retailers<br />

are advised to perform an audit of all computers and<br />

improve their cybersecurity as necessary. A recent report<br />

published by cybersecurity firm Proofpoint also found a<br />

significant increase in phishing, malware, and spam email<br />

campaigns using coronavirus as a theme, for example<br />

emails with the subject line, ‘COVID-19 Infected Our Staff’.<br />

22 | <strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


STRATEGY FEATURE | Coronavirus Survival Guide<br />

MARKETING STRATEGIES<br />

COMMUNICATING<br />

WITH CUSTOMERS<br />

Even a hibernating business needs to keep the channels of<br />

communication open with customers via text messaging,<br />

social media and email.<br />

Shane O’Neill, vice-president Fruchtman Marketing, says<br />

the current social distancing policies are an opportunity to<br />

build a “personal relationship” with customers. “It’s not<br />

about selling, it’s not about showing jewellery, it’s about<br />

community and unity,” he explains.<br />

Emili Vesilind, senior editor of JCK Online agrees that<br />

the ‘human touch’ is essential. “Your company is made<br />

up of people, including you, who are struggling with and<br />

acclimating to the current environment in the same ways<br />

so many of us are. Make them main characters in your<br />

communications,” she advises.<br />

While many people are delaying jewellery purchases until the<br />

future is more certain, O’Neill says businesses can continue<br />

to build “brand equity” by continuing to invest in marketing.<br />

“A lot of retailers are backing off their marketing and some<br />

are stopping their marketing completely, dead in the water,<br />

waiting for things to clear up. People who continue marketing<br />

and change their message are better positioned when this<br />

ends,” he says.<br />

However, Vesilind advises jewellers to think carefully about<br />

the tone of their social media posts, cautioning against a<br />

‘business as usual’ approach.<br />

“Eye-candy posts provide a much-needed escape – which we<br />

all need right now – and promote your [brands]. But resist<br />

pairing those product shots with easy-breezy captions,” she<br />

says, adding, “Copy that’s not warm, empathetic, and free of<br />

hyperbole and ‘sales speak’ feels painfully tone-deaf now.”<br />

O’Neill agrees that retailers should not focus on sales in their<br />

posts, and should invest more money into paid social media<br />

advertising to ensure their posts are widely seen.<br />

“How can you engage with the community around you, with<br />

paid posts, that aren’t sales-y? That’s not an easy thing to do,<br />

but you can be creative,” he says.<br />

Looking further ahead, retailers should consider how<br />

consumer behaviour will change over the next six months<br />

and when customers will be ready to shop again.<br />

Michael Tutek, CEO of online sales platform Preezie and<br />

Inside Retail contributor, advises retailers to think about their<br />

customers “on a deeper level than ever before”.<br />

“How do they shop? Why do they buy your product? How<br />

does your product integrate with their lives?” he asks.<br />

“How can you improve and tailor your user experience<br />

to suit the current market?”<br />

Vesilind also sees an opportunity to emphasise charitable<br />

partnerships and donations that are relevant to the crisis,<br />

which incentivises customers to shop with you.<br />

CUSTOMER SERVICE<br />

8 Tips to Keep<br />

Shoppers Safe<br />

1. Switch to an<br />

appointment-only<br />

or e-commerce<br />

model. Permitting<br />

insurance, staff could<br />

be reassigned to a<br />

fulfilment role rather<br />

than in-person sales.<br />

2. Implement cashless<br />

payment and switch to<br />

‘tap-and-go’ cards only.<br />

3. Taking appointments?<br />

Confirm that customers<br />

are not experiencing<br />

flu-like symptoms.<br />

During the appointment,<br />

maintain proper<br />

hygiene and distancing<br />

protocols.<br />

4. Communicate your<br />

cleaning practices<br />

with customers in<br />

person and through<br />

your enewsletter and<br />

catalogues.<br />

5. Limit physical<br />

contact from staff and<br />

ensure hand sanitiser is<br />

available if customers<br />

wish to try on products,<br />

and immediately<br />

disinfect afterwards.<br />

6. Advise staff to<br />

maintain at least 1.5m<br />

distance between<br />

customers.<br />

7. Your existing security<br />

practices like buzzing<br />

in customers one or<br />

two at a time can limit<br />

the spread of the illness<br />

from one customer<br />

to another.<br />

8. Keep your customers<br />

notified of delays on<br />

their special orders,<br />

and changes to store<br />

opening hours. Use<br />

social media, text<br />

messaging, phone<br />

calls and email to<br />

keep communication<br />

channels open, and<br />

direct customers to<br />

your online store.<br />

It’s also strongly suggested that jewellers look into<br />

installing remote surveillance systems where they can<br />

monitor live store security camera footage from home.<br />

Managing staff<br />

The NSW and Victorian governments directed nonessential<br />

businesses, including most retailers, to<br />

close from Tuesday 24 March.<br />

However, at the time of publication, retail stores<br />

including those within shopping centres were allowed<br />

to remain open if they were able to provide space of<br />

4 square-metres per person.<br />

Business owners should communicate clearly and<br />

frequently with employees, keeping them up to date<br />

with any developments or changes to operating hours<br />

and procedures, and supply them with the appropriate<br />

protection equipment.<br />

“Rather than stress our teams or push them harder to<br />

meet slipping sales targets, we need to prioritise looking<br />

after them. They are our number-one priority,” advises<br />

retail consultant Nathan Bush.<br />

There is no specific legal guidance on when an employer<br />

should direct an employee to stay away from their place of<br />

work, and retail sales staff are not able to work from home.<br />

However, staggered shifts can be implemented to prevent<br />

close contact between staff members.<br />

Employees have a duty to take care of their own health<br />

and safety and not to endanger others.<br />

If any employees become unwell, they should notify<br />

management immediately, contact their health provider<br />

and not attend work. The symptoms indicating possible<br />

COVID-19 infection are fever, coughing, sore throat, fatigue,<br />

and shortness of breath.<br />

Full and part-time employees who cannot come to work<br />

due to a coronavirus diagnosis can take paid sick leave;<br />

casual employees are not entitled to paid sick leave or annual<br />

leave, but can claim the Centrelink Sickness Allowance with<br />

no waiting period under new government rules.<br />

Full and part-time employees caring for a family member<br />

with COVID–19 or another unexpected emergency, are<br />

entitled to paid carer’s leave. Casual employees are<br />

entitled to 2 days of unpaid carer’s leave per occasion.<br />

Managers can request evidence of illness, such as a<br />

medical certificate or statutory declaration.<br />

Employers cannot compel employees to take sick leave<br />

or carer’s leave, but they can direct sick employees to<br />

receive medical clearance before returning to work. The<br />

Fair Work Act protects employees from being dismissed<br />

due to a temporary absence for illness.<br />

Some employees may be at higher risk of contracting<br />

the virus, including those who are immunocompromised or<br />

with underlying health conditions. These employees should<br />

seek advice from their healthcare provider over the specific<br />

precautions necessary.<br />

24 | <strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


Coronavirus Survival Guide | STRATEGY FEATURE<br />

If a store is likely to close, employees should be notified<br />

promptly.<br />

Staff may be eligible for additional entitlements under<br />

an enterprise agreement, award, contract of employment,<br />

or workplace policy.<br />

Instead of meetings or buying trips, businesses can<br />

switch to digital channels of communication – for example,<br />

teleconferencing and videoconferencing.<br />

At the time of publication, the West Australian, South<br />

Australian, Northern Territory, Tasmanian and Queensland<br />

governments had introduced strict border controls for<br />

interstate travellers, including mandatory self-isolation for 14<br />

days. International travel has been banned by the Australian<br />

government; anyone arriving in Australia from overseas<br />

is required to quarantine themselves at home for 14 days.<br />

For more specific information regarding workplace<br />

entitlements and obligations, call Fair Work Australia on<br />

13 13 94 and select the coronavirus hotline prompt, or<br />

visit the Fair Work website.<br />

Trading through a pandemic<br />

A pandemic is a crisis for which few businesses are<br />

prepared – after all, insurance estimations put the risk<br />

of pandemic at less than 1 per cent annually. As a result,<br />

many business owners are unequipped for the economic<br />

changes that take place during a global outbreak of illness<br />

However, the challenges retailers will face as the virus<br />

continues to spread are not unprecedented; there are<br />

strategies that retailers can employ to mitigate damage.<br />

“The trouble for jewellery retailers in a time of<br />

crisis, like the COVID-19 pandemic, is that sales<br />

of jewellery are motivated by celebration and<br />

love; they don’t sell on negative sentiment but<br />

positive sentiment”– Peter Ryan, Red Communication<br />

The Australian Retailers Association (ARA), has advised<br />

members, “The coronavirus, like any other virus, has a<br />

lifecycle. This is not a permanent state of affairs. It’s a<br />

serious, but temporary crisis.<br />

“Proactive retailers will need flexible systems that are easy<br />

to change and can automate optimal order routing. Success<br />

will depend on the agility and scalability of your systems.”<br />

For jewellery retailers, the solution starts with marketing.<br />

“The trouble for jewellery retailers in a time of crisis,<br />

like the COVID-19 pandemic, is that sales of jewellery<br />

are motivated by celebration and love; they don’t sell on<br />

negative sentiment but positive sentiment,” explains<br />

Peter Ryan, director Red Communication.<br />

“To sell anything at all at this time, retailers can’t think<br />

functionally. They have to think about emotional motivation<br />

and the only emotion I can think of at times like this is to<br />

make sure the ones you love know it. Keep them close and<br />

never be afraid to show them your love.<br />

“<strong>Jeweller</strong>y is a great way to do that and throughout history,<br />

in times of crisis, that has been the case.”<br />

HOW TO RESPOND<br />

Feeling Sick?<br />

If you feel sick, stay at<br />

home and seek medical<br />

care as soon as you can.<br />

Call your GP to organise<br />

testing for COVID-19 and<br />

ask your doctor further<br />

instructions.<br />

Practice self-isolation and<br />

keep your distance. If you are<br />

tested positive for COVID-19,<br />

notify those you’ve recently<br />

come into contact with.<br />

When coughing or sneezing,<br />

cover your nose and mouth<br />

with tissue or elbow.<br />

Wash hands thoroughly<br />

for 20 seconds. Clean and<br />

disinfect contact surfaces.<br />

If you must leave your home<br />

for medical assistance, wear<br />

a mask so your coughs and<br />

sneezes are less likely to<br />

contaminate others.<br />

Sales<br />

TRACK YOUR PRODUCTIVITY<br />

BUSINESS SURVIVAL<br />

CHECKLIST<br />

Call customers to collect completed repairs and makes<br />

Contact customers to have valuations updated.<br />

Refresh your product photos and try selling on Etsy, eBay,<br />

and Facebook.<br />

Offer free shipping or promote a delivery service for<br />

repairs and custom design.<br />

Increase repair business through text messaging – ask<br />

customers to text you pictures of jobs that need to be<br />

done or prongs that need to be retipped.<br />

Refer to your customer database to identify upcoming<br />

celebrations such as birthdays and anniversaries and<br />

contact customers who will be planning to buy gifts.<br />

Inventory<br />

If continuing to trade, revamp your visual merchandising<br />

Perform a full stocktake, identifying bestsellers and<br />

bread-and-butter products.<br />

Create a list of required stock and make a budget.<br />

Research brands you would like to carry and review<br />

diamond prices – this will refocus you towards your<br />

business’ future.<br />

Review the gold price and identify old jewellery or<br />

excess stock for refining.<br />

Clean, polish and remount remaining old stock.<br />

Operations & Housekeeping<br />

Thoroughly sanitise store in accordance with COVID-19<br />

prevention procedures and implement inhouse hygiene<br />

and sanitation policies with staff.<br />

Assess staffing needs and government support, then utilise<br />

stand downs, paid leave, or redundancies as necessary.<br />

Seek a rent reduction from your landlord and negotiate<br />

with banks, referring to government guidelines.<br />

Review store security – if closing, enact procedures to<br />

deter thieves such as setting lights to turn on intermittently.<br />

Marketing & Web Presence<br />

Website: Update all relevant information on your website,<br />

check for dead links and ensure you are equipped for<br />

e-commerce and online customer service.<br />

Photography: Standardise product images and take new<br />

ones to ensure your online showroom looks enticing.<br />

SEO: Update product descriptions and enter as much detail<br />

as you can for each item to optimise it for Google searches.<br />

Content: Research topics you want to communicate with<br />

your customers and potential new shoppers, and build a<br />

content strategy focused on your strongest areas.<br />

Social Media: Update your accounts and take advantage of<br />

each platform to enhance your digital presence at no cost.<br />

Marketing: Formulate a monthly marketing budget based<br />

on your trading goals in the new coronavirus environment.<br />

Even if it’s modest, ensure you are still reaching your regular<br />

shoppers and new potential customers.<br />

<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 25


STRATEGY FEATURE | Coronavirus Survival Guide<br />

Illustrating this phenomenon is the<br />

trend for engagements to increase<br />

during recessions and in wartime.<br />

While jewellery retailers may wish to focus<br />

their marketing efforts on this theme of<br />

love and family, even more important is<br />

keeping the channels of communication<br />

with customers open in any way possible.<br />

Some may be tempted to cut<br />

advertising and communication<br />

costs, yet retail experts advise<br />

that a more useful strategy is<br />

remaining ‘front of mind’.<br />

Some may be tempted to cut advertising<br />

and communication costs, yet retail<br />

experts advise that a more useful strategy<br />

is remaining ‘front of mind’.<br />

Ellen Fruchtman, director of Fruchtman<br />

Marketing, advises retailers to “think<br />

ahead”, telling US jewellery industry<br />

publication The Centurion, “I can tell<br />

you from experience that the retailers<br />

that remained front and centre in [the<br />

US recession of] 2008 got stronger.<br />

“Sales volumes increased, without a<br />

doubt… I’m not saying that because<br />

I’m in advertising, I’m saying it because<br />

we’ve seen it.”<br />

While she acknowledged that recent<br />

weakness in the stock market – the<br />

ASX200 recently fell to its lowest level<br />

since 2013, while the Australian Dollar<br />

dipped below $US0.60 – has left many<br />

consumers “not in the mood to buy<br />

jewellery”, the effects are likely to<br />

be temporary.<br />

“The bigger picture is that we don’t know<br />

when the stock market will rebound,”<br />

Fruchtman explains. “It always does,<br />

but the question is when, which no-one<br />

knows. Will that have an impact on the<br />

psyche of the consumer? That’s what all<br />

retailers need to be thinking about now.”<br />

In the meantime, others advise retailers<br />

to embrace the e-commerce side of<br />

their business, both in terms of digital<br />

marketing and online shopping.<br />

“You must have a strong online presence<br />

during this period,” says Jeff Gordon,<br />

director of The Gordon Company,<br />

a jewellery sales, strategy and<br />

promotion business based in Florida.<br />

“Let customers know you have options<br />

[beyond] in-store shopping.”<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>y retail and training expert Jimmy<br />

De Groot advises retailers to “stay in the<br />

game”: “Stay in contact, keep the faith,<br />

and always be doing something to stay in<br />

touch with customers.”<br />

He cites texting, phone calls, social media<br />

videos, FaceTime, and video-conferencing<br />

with a printed 3D design as some of<br />

the ways retail jewellers can interact<br />

with customers who aren’t able to visit<br />

the store.<br />

Indeed, with many consumers working<br />

from home or limiting their outdoor<br />

activities, researchers are predicting a<br />

boost to the consumption of digital media.<br />

MARKETING<br />

FOR LEAD<br />

GENERATION<br />

Organic posts<br />

on Facebook<br />

and Instagram<br />

are ideal for<br />

communicating<br />

with existing<br />

customers<br />

Social media<br />

advertising –<br />

paid and<br />

promoted posts<br />

– reaches a<br />

wider audience<br />

of potential new<br />

customers<br />

YouTube<br />

advertising can<br />

be very costeffective<br />

and<br />

is both targeted<br />

and far-reaching<br />

Email marketing<br />

and newsletters<br />

keep a brand<br />

front of mind<br />

for regular<br />

customers<br />

SMS and<br />

WhatsApp<br />

messages have<br />

a far higher<br />

open rate than<br />

emails and feel<br />

more personal<br />

In its recent report The Biggest Business<br />

Impacts of the Coronavirus, international<br />

digital marketing research firm eMarketer<br />

predicted “digital media consumption to<br />

increase across social media, over-the-top<br />

video and online gaming – similar to what<br />

we’ve already seen in China.<br />

“Social networks could be a major beneficiary,<br />

as people turn to these platforms to connect<br />

with friends and family who may be at a<br />

distance or to access news content.”<br />

It also stated that video streaming apps<br />

like YouTube would likely see an increase<br />

in usage. These trends present an<br />

opportunity for retailers to advertise<br />

at low cost on these platforms.<br />

“Stay in the game, stay in contact,<br />

keep the faith, and always be<br />

doing something to stay in touch<br />

with customers”<br />

– Jimmy De Groot, jewelrystoretraining.com<br />

The eMarketer report also noted that<br />

“changes in online shopping habits may<br />

be particularly prevalent among older<br />

customers – the group most susceptible to<br />

the coronavirus and most likely to avoid stores<br />

because of it, but least likely to shop online.”<br />

This shift could not only provide shortterm<br />

sales, but permanently shift their<br />

purchasing pattern to online shopping.<br />

Meanwhile, the ARA has advised members<br />

to invest in delivery services: “The retailers<br />

that have an advantage will be those who<br />

are set up to dispatch from local stores and<br />

E XPERIENCED<br />

PERSPECTIVE<br />

Dealing<br />

With Crisis<br />

JIMMY DE GROOT<br />

The morning of 9/11 [Sep 11,<br />

2001], my team and I were<br />

about to step on a plane to<br />

go to a Hearts On Fire event<br />

in Las Vegas. We were soon<br />

told there would be no flights to<br />

Vegas – or any flights at all.<br />

In the ensuing weeks we had<br />

meetings and discussions<br />

about what we should do<br />

about our Christmas plans,<br />

our promotions, our inventory<br />

coming in, our flyers, and<br />

our business in general.<br />

We decided to stay all in –<br />

in fact, increase our efforts.<br />

The result was the best<br />

holiday season to date.<br />

We didn’t know what was<br />

going to happen in our<br />

country or the world, but we<br />

chose not to let fear govern<br />

our lives and our business.<br />

I completely understand your<br />

trepidation and the trepidation<br />

in many people’s minds about<br />

the future, but I do know one<br />

thing for sure.<br />

If we start letting fear rule our<br />

lives and our businesses, and<br />

if we start pulling back on<br />

all of our efforts, from<br />

marketing to planning to<br />

customer service, and just<br />

the day-to-wonderful things<br />

that happen in our stores, then<br />

our actions will become selffulfilling<br />

prophecies.<br />

When we went through one of<br />

the most uncertain periods in<br />

our country’s history, we knew<br />

we owed it to our customers<br />

to continue doing what we do<br />

best, and that’s being a crucial<br />

part of our customers’ most<br />

important moments.<br />

12 | <strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


Coronavirus Survival Guide | STRATEGY FEATURE<br />

are not as reliant on those who operate from<br />

a central warehouse.”<br />

Retail consultant Nathan Bush adds, “Physical<br />

footfall will drop and visits to public spaces<br />

will be more purposeful. With consumers in<br />

a task-oriented mindset, think about how you<br />

make those tasks easy to achieve.<br />

“Home delivery options are essential. Click<br />

and collect, reserve in store and accurate<br />

views of store inventory give customers<br />

certainty. Subscriptions can guarantee<br />

access to product.”<br />

Long-term thinking<br />

While putting resources towards e-commerce<br />

and marketing can help retailers survive<br />

the temporary financial shock of the virus,<br />

Ryan warns that the changes in consumer<br />

behaviour may last for many months.<br />

“By all means, move to online – but functional<br />

options will not overpower the fear and panic<br />

that is enveloping people right now,” he says.<br />

Restrictions on travel, social distancing,<br />

school closures, and reduced trading<br />

hours, as well as employee absences<br />

and shipping delays are just some of<br />

the factors that combine to hamper<br />

service-based businesses.<br />

However, in addition to federal and state<br />

government support, all four major banks<br />

have announced relief packages for<br />

businesses in financial stress due to the<br />

COVID-19 pandemic.<br />

These initiatives range from waiving fees<br />

on merchant terminals to deferring<br />

TAKE A<br />

LOOK IN THE<br />

MIRROR<br />

Examine your<br />

brand message<br />

if necessary<br />

Review your<br />

competitors<br />

and learn from<br />

their successes<br />

Assess and<br />

marketing<br />

strategy<br />

Audit your<br />

website<br />

and assess<br />

analytics<br />

Undertake<br />

online courses<br />

in sales and<br />

business<br />

repayments on vehicle and equipment<br />

finance loans, providing restructuring and<br />

extension options, and providing business<br />

counselling services.<br />

“Use this time to reinvent<br />

how you do what you do, bring<br />

consumers new alternatives,<br />

new value, and in the process<br />

even reinvent your own brand”<br />

– Doug Stephens, retail futurist<br />

Guil Lima, chief executive business<br />

division, Westpac, said, “This is an<br />

extremely difficult period for some<br />

Australian businesses. We want our<br />

customers in any affected sectors to<br />

know there’s a range of ways we are<br />

ready to support them.”<br />

From a long-term perspective, Canadian<br />

retail futurist Doug Stephens believes there<br />

may be a ‘consumption spike’ once the<br />

pandemic is brought under control.<br />

He likened this ‘brush with mortality’<br />

effect to the one that occurred after the<br />

September 11, 2001 terrorist attacks.<br />

In an interview with Business of Fashion,<br />

he advised businesses to adopt a futurefocused<br />

perspective: “Use this time to<br />

reinvent how you do what you do, bring<br />

consumers new alternatives, new value,<br />

and in the process even reinvent your own<br />

brand. Don’t let innovation stop, because<br />

this could be the window of opportunity.”<br />

Meanwhile, retail and consumer product<br />

consultant Robin Lewis and global<br />

fashion supply chain expert Margaret<br />

Bishop believe the aftermath of the<br />

coronavirus could “level the playing<br />

field” when it comes to discounting.<br />

Writing on the Robin Report blog, they note,<br />

“Supply disruptions that reduce inventory<br />

offer the legitimate excuse brands and<br />

retailers need to reverse the overproduction<br />

and deep discounting they have come to<br />

depend on and now regret.”<br />

They advise retailers to “make less, sell<br />

at full price, meet profit goals on lower<br />

volume and higher margin – and reduce<br />

pervasive waste”.<br />

Most importantly experts say businesses<br />

and individuals should avoid panic.<br />

Professor Ilan Noy, chair in the<br />

Economics of Disasters at Victoria<br />

University in New Zealand, told the ABC<br />

that the economic impacts are “largely<br />

because of the changes in behaviour<br />

and not directly because people are sick”.<br />

“There is no necessary panic. There are<br />

necessary changes in behaviour, but<br />

panic is unadvisable in any case,” he<br />

said, adding that governments and<br />

media should work to keep people calm.<br />

Ultimately, the full impact of COVID-19<br />

cannot be predicted with total certainty;<br />

but the lessons of the past and the<br />

experience of the present can help<br />

prepare business owners as much<br />

as possible for what lies ahead.<br />

HELP & HOTLINES<br />

Australian Government Department<br />

of Health COVID-19 Hotline<br />

24/7 Hotline 1800 020 080<br />

Healthdirect Hotline with a registered nurse<br />

24/7 Hotline 1800 022 222 | healthdirect.gov.au<br />

Head to Health mental health support<br />

Call 1300 368 041 | Text 0477 131 114<br />

headtohealth.gov.au/covid-19-support/covid-19<br />

Australian Treasury<br />

1800 020 008 | treasury.gov.au/coronavirus<br />

Safe Work Australia<br />

safeworkaustralia.gov.au<br />

Australian Government Business Services<br />

13 28 46 | business.gov.au<br />

Australian Retailers Association (ARA)<br />

1300 368 041 | retail.org.au<br />

Business NSW<br />

02 9228 4567 | business.nsw.gov.au<br />

Business Victoria<br />

13 22 15 | business.vic.gov.au<br />

Business Queensland<br />

13 74 68 | business.qld.gov.au<br />

ADDITIONAL RESOURCES<br />

Australian COVID-19 Case Numbers & Alerts<br />

www.health.gov.au/news/health-alerts/novelcoronavirus-2019-ncov-health-alert<br />

Johns Hopkins University COVID-19 Tracker<br />

coronavirus.jhu.edu/map.html<br />

World Health Organisation (WHO)<br />

www.who.int/emergencies/diseases/novelcoronavirus-2019<br />

<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 13


INTERNATIONAL<br />

Trade Show Report<br />

WRITING THE FUTURE: INDIAN INGENUITY<br />

Jaipur, Rajasthan, India - Amber fort in Jaipur<br />

The recent IIJS Signature show in Mumbai proceeded ahead of the coronavirus – however, the outbreak has now<br />

impacted India’s newest trade event, set to take place in the Pink City of Jaipur, writes COLEBY NICHOLSON.<br />

The recent India International <strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />

Show Signature (IIJS) trade show and<br />

India Gem & <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Machinery Expo<br />

in Mumbai fell directly in the middle of<br />

two worldwide issues: the US-China trade<br />

war and the outbreak of the coronavirus,<br />

known as COVID-19.<br />

Unlike other jewellery trade shows which<br />

had already been postponed, such as<br />

Hong Kong’s International <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Show,<br />

Signature – the smaller of Mumbai’s two<br />

annual jewellery events went ahead in late<br />

February, mainly because its focus is largely<br />

on the local market.<br />

Its bigger ’brother’, IIJS Premiere, has<br />

a much larger international visitation<br />

and takes place in August. At the time of<br />

publication, it was still scheduled to proceed<br />

as planned.<br />

However, India’s Gem & <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Export<br />

Promotion Council (GJEPC) – the organiser<br />

of both IIJS events – has been forced to<br />

postpone another important trade gathering:<br />

the new International Gem & <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Show<br />

in Jaipur, which was slated for 1–3 <strong>April</strong>.<br />

When the GJEPC decided to proceed with<br />

Signature, COVID-19 was largely seen as a<br />

‘China issue’. However, the impacts of the<br />

outbreak were already beginning to be felt in<br />

India; local diamond suppliers experienced<br />

problems dealing with mainland Chinese<br />

manufacturers as well as Hong Kong<br />

companies, both of which had effectively<br />

closed their offices.<br />

As a result, the diamond trade with China<br />

had effectively stalled well before the<br />

enormous impact of the virus outside of<br />

China became apparent.<br />

The outbreak affected Indian sales as<br />

well as producing numerous administrative<br />

issues – staff were simply not present<br />

in Chinese offices to pay invoices for<br />

earlier deliveries.<br />

While Chinese business began to falter,<br />

some Indian jewllery manufacturers saw<br />

an increase in exports to the US as a result<br />

of the US-China trade war.<br />

“We have great exports to America. Even<br />

Chinese people are coming to India to set<br />

up factories to export to the US, because of<br />

the 6 per cent difference in duty due to the<br />

trade wars. So, Americans have very keen on<br />

buying from India,” Abihishek Sand,<br />

director Savio <strong>Jeweller</strong>y, told <strong>Jeweller</strong> at<br />

the Signature show.<br />

QUICK<br />

NUMBERS<br />

15k<br />

Visitors<br />

attended,<br />

from 325 cities<br />

700<br />

Exhibitors<br />

were present<br />

at the show<br />

4k<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />

businesses will<br />

be based at new<br />

Jaipur Bourse<br />

Savio <strong>Jeweller</strong>y is a based in Jaipur and<br />

Sand believes there are a number of<br />

reasons for US buyers’ greater focus on<br />

Indian suppliers: saving on import duty,<br />

less disruptions due to coronavirus when<br />

compared with China, and improvements<br />

in manufacturing quality.<br />

“The earlier manufacturing quality and<br />

craftsmanship in India was said to be weak<br />

but now Indian machinery is fantastic.<br />

You can’t find a difference between Indian<br />

jewellery and Hong Kong-made jewellery.<br />

These machines have been imported and<br />

we are now focusing on quality finishing,”<br />

Sand said.<br />

He added: “Every Indian manufacturer is<br />

using CAD and less so hand-made. The<br />

accuracy level was missing [with handmade]<br />

and everyone wants quality finishing.<br />

Buyers are not concerned about the price –<br />

they are more concerned about the finished<br />

craftsmanship, so in order to export they<br />

are now focusing more on quality with CAD,<br />

better machinery and technology.”<br />

More than 15,000 visitors from 325 cities<br />

attended the four-day event to see what<br />

the 700 exhibitors had on display across<br />

the 45,000 square-metre event space.<br />

28 | <strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


Addressing the inaugural session, GJEPC<br />

chairman Pramod Kumar Agrawal said,<br />

“IIJS Signature is now seen as an integral<br />

part of Indian jewellers’ business cycle.<br />

“Participants at each stage of the supply<br />

chain – from raw material suppliers to<br />

manufacturers, designers, wholesalers and<br />

retailers – are growing and consolidating<br />

their business.”<br />

GJEPC is an organisation established in<br />

1966 by the Indian Ministry of Commerce<br />

and Industry with the aim to promote the<br />

gem and jewellery industry and its products.<br />

It regularly lobbies the government for<br />

improvements in trade and exports<br />

represents almost 7,000 exporters.<br />

“We have been pursuing our government<br />

constantly with a few concerns which<br />

require immediate attention, like reduction<br />

in import duty from 12.5 per cent to 4 per<br />

cent on precious metals such as gold,<br />

silver and platinum; reduction of import<br />

duty on cut and polished diamonds and<br />

gemstones from 7.5 per cent to 2.5 per<br />

cent; and the amendment in taxation<br />

laws enabling sale of rough diamonds<br />

in Mumbai,” Agrawal said.<br />

He believes these issues are critical<br />

in creating a “level playing field” for<br />

Indian businesses in the international<br />

jewellery trade.<br />

Evolving India’s trade shows<br />

Agrawal announced the <strong>April</strong> Jaipur gem<br />

show at IIJS Signature, however the GJPEC<br />

recently advised the industry it will now take<br />

place in July due to coronavirus concerns.<br />

Elaborating on the reasons for the change,<br />

the GJEPC said, “There are serious<br />

concerns globally pertaining to the outbreak<br />

of respiratory illness caused by coronavirus<br />

adversely affecting everyone’s travel plans.”<br />

It added that “considering the concerns and<br />

sensitivities of the countries impacted, the<br />

health and safety of exhibitors and visitors,<br />

after much deliberation with buyers and<br />

other stake holders” there was “no option<br />

but to reschedule the IGJS show to the new<br />

dates of 18–20 July <strong>2020</strong>”.<br />

In a message sent to all participants, GJEPC<br />

noted that the exclusive export-oriented<br />

show was targeted towards international<br />

visitors and it had received a “fabulous<br />

response from both exhibitors as well as<br />

buyers” with 600 buyer companies from<br />

56 countries having pre-registered.<br />

Jaipur is the historic ‘Pink City’ and<br />

capital of Rajasthan.<br />

While Thailand and Sri Lanka are known<br />

for ruby and sapphire cutting, treatment,<br />

and trading – and Surat, India, is the centre<br />

for diamond cutting and diamond jewellery<br />

manufacturing – Jaipur has a reputation as<br />

a centre for cutting, trading, and creating<br />

jewellery with a wide variety of coloured<br />

gemstones, particularly emeralds.<br />

Its gemstone cutting and manufacturing<br />

businesses employ thousands of artisans<br />

with modern production facilities and<br />

techniques.<br />

The importance of this market is best<br />

illustrated by the announcement late last<br />

year of the plan to establish a Gem Bourse<br />

in Jaipur. Said to be the first of its kind in<br />

the world, and set up exclusively for<br />

gemstones, it will house all trading activities<br />

in one secure environment, catering to the<br />

needs of local and international buyers.<br />

The Bourse is envisioned to include 2,000<br />

offices of gemstone manufacturers and<br />

traders, brokers’ chambers, a trading hall,<br />

customs clearance centre, exhibition hall<br />

and display shops.<br />

Other industry services such as banks,<br />

insurance company offices, clearing<br />

and forwarding agent offices, testing<br />

laboratories and an export facilitation<br />

centre are expected to locate within the<br />

Bourse area.<br />

While the postponement of the Jaipur show<br />

could be viewed as a blow, it may work to<br />

the GJPEC’s advantage, allowing more time<br />

to promote it to international exhibitors.<br />

In addition, the success of the recent<br />

Signature show has added momentum<br />

to the Indian industry.<br />

After the event Agrawal, said, “Despite<br />

business and environment headwinds,<br />

India’s gem and jewellery exhibitors<br />

participated wholeheartedly with energy<br />

and enthusiasm.<br />

“We witnessed an influx of international<br />

buyers who are looking for alternatives<br />

considering the emerging international<br />

trade equations and China’s current<br />

situation [relating to COVID-19].”<br />

The gem-and-jewellery industry is a vital<br />

sector of India’s economy, accounting for<br />

7 per cent of gross domestic product.<br />

Exports of gems and jewellery exceed<br />

2019 Guinness<br />

Record Breaker<br />

‘Lotus Temple in Delhi’<br />

7,777 set diamonds<br />

Lakshikaa Jewels<br />

2015 Guinness<br />

Record Breaker<br />

‘Peacock Ring’<br />

3,827 set diamonds<br />

Savio <strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />

IIJS Signature<br />

is now seen<br />

as an integral<br />

part of Indian<br />

jewellers’<br />

business cycle.<br />

Participants<br />

at each stage<br />

of the supply<br />

chain are<br />

growing and<br />

consolidating<br />

their business<br />

Pramod Agrawal<br />

GJEPC<br />

$US40 billion a year, with an official target<br />

to achieve a lofty $US75 billion by 2025.<br />

The Signature show also hosted a number<br />

of concurrent events and seminars<br />

including the Business Knowledge Forum<br />

in association with EconomicTimes.com.<br />

Speakers covered the importance of<br />

modern-day information technology<br />

and tools such as robotics, artificial<br />

intelligence and digital marketing.<br />

The Craft Pavilion promoted three<br />

traditional Indian jewellery crafts:<br />

temple, bidri and filigree.<br />

The aim is to preserve the knowledge<br />

of these crafts, as the skills are largely<br />

passed down through the generations<br />

by word of mouth or through practice.<br />

Meanwhile, the <strong>Jeweller</strong>y Start-Up Zone<br />

allowed exhibitors to interact with B2B<br />

buyers from across India.<br />

A brighter future<br />

The GJEPC is an extremely active<br />

organisation and while its latest initiatives<br />

– the new Jaipur Show and Gem Bourse –<br />

are a demonstration of India’s recognition<br />

of the importance of the gem and jewellery<br />

industry, it has another large project<br />

underway.<br />

Last year it announced a new India <strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />

Park, a 21-acre integrated industrial park<br />

in Mumbai comprising manufacturing<br />

units, commercial areas, and residences for<br />

industrial workers and commercial support<br />

services. It will be substantially different to<br />

the Bharat Diamond Bourse (BDB) or any<br />

other export processing zones.<br />

It is expected that, when complete, more<br />

than 4,000 jewellery businesses and<br />

services companies will be located there.<br />

The Indian jewellery sector is an engine for<br />

employment and continues to develop both<br />

in terms of technology and ambition. Despite<br />

the challenges that <strong>2020</strong> has brought to<br />

the international trade, the Signature show<br />

– and the GJEPC’s upcoming initiatives –<br />

reveal the true potential waiting to be tapped<br />

in the coming years.<br />

Coleby Nicholson attended IIJS Signature<br />

courtesy of GJEPC. Upcoming events<br />

include International Gem & <strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />

Show in Jaipur from 18–20 July and IIJS<br />

Premiere from 6–10 August <strong>2020</strong>.<br />

<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 29


FEATURE<br />

Watch Industry Report<br />

WATCH<br />

&<br />

LEARN:<br />

TRENDS<br />

IN TIME<br />

<br />

upheaval. ARABELLA RODEN explores how<br />

brands have adapted to the changes.


The world of watches is almost<br />

unrecognisable from what it was ten,<br />

or even five years ago. From design to<br />

functionality and marketing, the category has<br />

evolved significantly due to a combination of<br />

technological change, industry politics, economic<br />

uncertainty and shifts in communication.<br />

The decline of Baselworld – once the world’s premier<br />

watch and jewellery fair – became clear between 2017 and<br />

2018, when the exhibitor number nearly halved from 1,300<br />

to around 650.<br />

Shortly after the 2018 show, Swatch Group pulled out of<br />

exhibiting its 18 brands at future editions of Baselworld,<br />

followed by Raymond Weil, Corum and Maurice Lacroix.<br />

This year’s event has been cancelled in the wake of the<br />

coronavirus pandemic, which some industry commentators<br />

welcomed as a reprieve from what would have been a notably<br />

anaemic show, even when compared with previous years.<br />

Indeed, it has been heralded by some as a chance to<br />

reinvigorate and renew the show – and the watch industry.<br />

Perhaps the most notable trend within watches over the<br />

past five years is polarisation – the movement of consumer<br />

spending to the extremes of the category.<br />

Luxury watches have maintained consistent<br />

revenue – the Federation of Swiss Watch<br />

Industry (FH) reported that exports were valued<br />

at CHF21.7 billion ($AU37 billion) in 2019, topping<br />

a record set in 2015 – albeit based on smaller<br />

sales volumes.<br />

This trend indicates consumers are embracing<br />

more expensive models, as well as turning to<br />

the secondary watch market for choice.<br />

Meanwhile, mid-range watch brands – generally<br />

defined as those between $600 and $2,000<br />

– have seen their market share reduced by competition from<br />

smartwatches, while fashion watches have been influenced<br />

by changing consumer habits and online competitors.<br />

However, brands have adapted to counter these threats.<br />

Ultimately, the challenge for retailers is to navigate the<br />

shifting sands of the watch industry hourglass, taking note of<br />

competitor trends while ensuring the product mix is relevant<br />

to consumers and marketed through the correct channels.<br />

Time to split: the exhibitor exodus<br />

The past five years have not only brought functional and<br />

material changes to the watch category, but fundamental<br />

differences in the way brands communicate with both retailers<br />

and consumers.<br />

The interconnectedness and immediacy of global<br />

communication has changed how watches, from luxury<br />

Swiss timepieces to affordable fashion watches, are marketed<br />

and distributed.<br />

For decades, debuting new models amid the hustle and bustle<br />

of Baselworld’s Hall 1 was aspirational; a statement of luxury<br />

and success, lending prestige to a brand and its products.<br />

It was also practical, ensuring marketing budgets could be<br />

focused on one major event, nearly all international retailers<br />

could be briefed on new products at the same time, and media<br />

representatives could report on a wide number of different<br />

brands without extensive travel.<br />

INDUSTRY STATS<br />

Annual Growth<br />

<strong>2020</strong>–2025<br />

Traditional Watch<br />

Increase<br />

9.92 per cent<br />

Smartwatch<br />

Increase<br />

14.5 per cent<br />

Hybrid Watch<br />

Increase<br />

14.5 per cent<br />

Data: Mordor Intelligence<br />

Images (from top): Rolex,<br />

Apple, Garmin<br />

But as the cost of exhibiting increased and global<br />

communications were simplified to more directly target<br />

consumers, Baselworld’s relevance receded.<br />

Suddenly, the crowds, noise and expense seemed less<br />

appealing, particularly when brands could host luxury retreatstyle<br />

product showcases for their retailers and distributors.<br />

Some of these events even took place in Switzerland around<br />

the same time as Baselworld, including Swatch Group’s<br />

Zürich-based Time To Move conference and Movado Group’s<br />

Movado Summit in Davos.<br />

At a time of unprecedented prosperity – 10 years after the<br />

Global Financial Crisis – the world’s most prestigious watch<br />

exhibition began to falter. Brands were no longer willing to<br />

pay Baselworld’s considerable exhibitor fees, reflecting the<br />

diminishing returns of the exhibition model itself.<br />

It was not helped by the intransigent attitude of show<br />

organiser MCH Group. Michel Loris-Melikoff, managing<br />

director Baselworld, told <strong>Jeweller</strong> last year, “MCH organised<br />

Baselworld and if you wanted to be part of the show, you had<br />

to accept everything – take it or leave it.”<br />

Yet the problems were not solely attributable to MCH.<br />

The Geneva-based Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie<br />

(SIHH) was not immune, losing Audemars Piguet and Richard<br />

Mille following the 2019 edition.<br />

Loss of exhibitors was among the factors prompting the<br />

rebranding of the show to Watches & Wonders Geneva late<br />

last year. In <strong>2020</strong>, it was set to include consumer-focused<br />

activities such as walking tours and a dedicated day of<br />

access to the show floor.<br />

The two shows were also scheduled to run consecutively this<br />

year, shifting into a late <strong>April</strong>-early May timetable. However,<br />

the change in dates was the final nail in the coffin for many<br />

long-time exhibitors, including Seiko and Casio. Both brands<br />

withdrew from Baselworld in late 2019, given the dates would<br />

coincide with a week-long Japanese public holiday.<br />

In January this year, LVMH – a long-term supporter of<br />

Baselworld – hosted its first ‘LVMH Watch Week’ at the<br />

company’s own Bulgari Hotel in Dubai. Bulgari consequently<br />

pulled out of the Swiss show, though TAG Heuer and Zenith<br />

were still scheduled to exhibit before Baselworld was<br />

cancelled in February.<br />

However, some industry commentators have noted the<br />

‘individual showcase’ strategy benefits brands at the<br />

expense of their retailers, distribution partners, and<br />

ultimately consumers.<br />

Rob Corder, editor in chief of UK industry publication<br />

WatchPro, wrote earlier this year, “Rolex/Tudor, LVMH,<br />

Swatch Group, Richemont, Movado, Fossil, Breitling,<br />

Audemars Piguet, Grand Seiko, Kering and many others<br />

are refusing to come together into one, or even two, major<br />

trade shows, leaving retailers, consumers and press<br />

trawling the world for the first five months of the year.<br />

“Every one of the groups and brands will tell you they will be<br />

putting on a fantastic show, but none appear to be listening<br />

to the needs of their key retail partners.”<br />

He also dismissed the idea of Swiss exhibitions as consumer<br />

shows, stating, “Customer events should be in the countries<br />

of the customers and run by local teams, ideally in<br />

conjunction with retail partners so that people can actually<br />

buy the watches they see.”<br />

Indeed, the coronavirus pandemic may make that a necessity<br />

through its devastating impacts on the travel sector.<br />

<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 31


TRENDS IN TIME | Watch Industry Report<br />

The pandemic has led<br />

to the cancellation or<br />

postponement of trade<br />

shows and events.<br />

How are you adapting<br />

your communication<br />

with retailers?<br />

In its heyday: Baselworld was still drawing large crowds in 2016.<br />

The virus may also have another<br />

unintended result – reuniting the<br />

international watch industry.<br />

It has forced not only the cancellation<br />

of both Baselworld and Watches<br />

& Wonders Geneva, but also a<br />

reassessment of priorities.<br />

“Suddenly, the PR and politicking<br />

problems in the international watch<br />

market became insignificant as the ‘real<br />

people’ of the world went out to their<br />

supermarkets to fight over rice, pasta,<br />

hand sanitiser and toilet paper,” explains<br />

Martin Foster, watch industry journalist<br />

and <strong>Jeweller</strong> contributor.<br />

He believes the Swiss industry should<br />

undertake a “health-check” and<br />

recognise that old rivalries should be<br />

forgotten in favour of more efficient,<br />

unified solutions.<br />

“Baselworld has empty exhibition halls<br />

going begging with dedicated space<br />

available, if only the show formerly<br />

known as SIHH can grasp the enormous<br />

economic and political value of this<br />

opportunity,” he adds.<br />

Looking ahead to 2021, Corder agrees<br />

that a “reboot” is necessary, focusing<br />

on a “luxurious and enjoyable to attend”<br />

show with retailers and members of the<br />

media hosted by the brands.<br />

Crucially, exhibiting at the show should<br />

cost “a fraction of what Baselworld used<br />

to require”.<br />

Time will tell if Loris-Melikoff can<br />

succeed in righting the ship and restoring<br />

the venerable show – and the watch<br />

industry, to its former glory.<br />

Taking a bite of the Apple<br />

It is difficult to overstate the impact of<br />

technology on the design and function<br />

of watches, most notably the introduction<br />

of the Apple Watch in 2015.<br />

It marked something of a tipping point<br />

in the smartwatch category, prompting<br />

a monumental increase in consumer<br />

demand.<br />

In 2014, US-based research firm<br />

International Data Corp (IDC) estimated<br />

global smartwatch sales at 4.2 million,<br />

which increased by more than 400 per<br />

cent the following year, to 19.4 million.<br />

Apple Watches accounted for 11.6<br />

million of those sales, according to IDC’s<br />

analysis. Today, Apple claims to have<br />

overtaken Rolex as the world’s ‘most<br />

valuable’ watch brand in revenue terms.<br />

“Baselworld has empty<br />

exhibition halls going<br />

begging with dedicated space<br />

available, if only the show<br />

formerly known as SIHH<br />

can grasp the enormous<br />

economic and political value<br />

of this opportunity”<br />

– <br />

Despite a mixed-to-dismissive response<br />

from many in the traditional watch<br />

industry, the Apple Watch proved<br />

enduringly popular, with the number of<br />

units shipped increasing each year since<br />

its debut, according to reports by market<br />

research firm Strategy Analytics.<br />

Apple does not publicly declare separate<br />

shipment or revenue data for the Apple<br />

Watch.<br />

The devices retail for $US199–$US499<br />

for a standard model, and up to<br />

$US2,159 for special editions made in<br />

ceramic or titanium – placing them in<br />

direct competition with fashion and<br />

mid-range luxury watches.<br />

“Certainly, the introduction of<br />

smartwatches has had the most<br />

significant impact on the watch industry<br />

in the past five years,” says Phil Edwards,<br />

managing director Duraflex Group<br />

Australia, which distributes Swiss watch<br />

brands Baume & Mercier, Luminox and<br />

Mondaine, among others.<br />

Alongside smartwatch models from<br />

the likes of Samsung, Garmin and<br />

Huawei, the Apple Watch has prompted<br />

extensive changes in the fashion<br />

watch category in particular, through<br />

increased competition.<br />

Simon Garber<br />

Heart & Grace<br />

“We are ensuring that<br />

our stockists know we<br />

are open for business<br />

and here to help. In tough<br />

times it is easy to forget<br />

there are still occasions<br />

for which people will<br />

be buying gifts, such as<br />

Mother’s Day. We also<br />

want to make sure that<br />

people know the key<br />

items needed to make<br />

sales and that we have<br />

those items in stock.”<br />

Phil Edwards<br />

Duraflex Group Australia<br />

“The pandemic forces us<br />

to amend our approach.<br />

We will need to be<br />

strategic but also fluid,<br />

and support retailers<br />

and our brands as best<br />

we can.”<br />

John Rose<br />

West End Collection<br />

“We are supporting<br />

retailers with online tools<br />

that allow them to be as<br />

successful online as they<br />

are in their physical store.<br />

We are seeing consumers<br />

become more inclined to<br />

purchase from the website<br />

of a brick-and-mortar<br />

store that they know and<br />

love, rather than a faceless<br />

marketplace. Consumers<br />

now trust the internet and<br />

in many cases prefer to<br />

purchase online, rather<br />

than in-store due<br />

to the convenience of doing<br />

so – not because<br />

it is cheaper.”<br />

Fossil Group – which includes fashion watch<br />

brands Fossil, Relic, and Skagen Denmark,<br />

and produes licensed watches under the<br />

Puma, Emporio Armani, and Michael Kors<br />

brands, among others – saw its net profits<br />

drop a precipitous 79 per cent between 2014<br />

and 2016.<br />

Reflecting on the results, Fossil CEO Kosta<br />

Kartsotis said, “Prior to that, we were clearly<br />

positioned as the competitively advantaged<br />

leader in a growing category. However, with<br />

the introduction of technology into wrist<br />

devices, traditional watches came under<br />

pressure and we were disadvantaged.<br />

“We didn’t have the technology capabilities<br />

to compete with smartwatches, leading to<br />

a decline in our market.”<br />

Meanwhile, Swatch Group CEO Nicolas<br />

Hayek Jr initially called the Apple Watch<br />

“an interesting toy, but not a revolution”.<br />

Swatch Group’s annual revenue fell 21 per<br />

cent and then 47 per cent consecutively<br />

in 2015 and 2016.<br />

The company has since announced various<br />

forays into the smartwatch category – even<br />

developing the Swiss OS operating system –<br />

though none have materialised to date.<br />

The extent of the threat from smartwatches<br />

was easy to underestimate. Notably,<br />

Microsoft’s smartwatch project, Smart<br />

Personal Object Technology, failed in<br />

2005, leading to a lawsuit from Swatch<br />

Group after it was left with 100,000<br />

unusable smartwatches.<br />

Eight years later, Pebble – a pioneer in<br />

the smartwatch space – collapsed and was<br />

purchased by fitness tracker manufacturer<br />

FitBit. It seemed to confirm industry<br />

suspicions that smartwatches were<br />

struggling to differentiate from health<br />

and medicine-oriented ‘wearables’.<br />

By 2017, the market was valued at $US9.2<br />

billion ($AU14.9 billion); by 2025, analysts<br />

at Allied Market Research predict that<br />

figure will increase to $US50.3 billion.<br />

As a result, fashion watch brands have<br />

adapted to both differentiate themselves<br />

from smartwatches, and – through hybrid<br />

technology – mimic them.<br />

John Rose, managing director West End<br />

Collection, which distributes Paul Hewitt,<br />

32 | <strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


www.citizenwatches.com.au<br />

It starts with a simple,<br />

yet revolutionary concept;<br />

A watch that never needs<br />

a battery.<br />

Model: BN4049-11E<br />

Find out more


Colour Diamonds Feature | FLIGHT OF FANCY<br />

TRENDS IN TIME | Watch Industry Report<br />

INDUSTRY PERSPECTIVE<br />

Apple Watch and the Swiss: a genuine rivalry?<br />

There is more nuance to the<br />

impact of Apple on the watch<br />

industry than increased<br />

competition – and indeed,<br />

debate persists over whether<br />

smartwatches even belong in<br />

the same category as traditional<br />

watches.<br />

Martin Foster, watch industry<br />

journalist and <strong>Jeweller</strong><br />

contributor, asks, “Is the Apple<br />

Watch’s ability to tell the time<br />

simply a side-benefit so it can<br />

be called a ‘watch’? Is it a watch<br />

or just ‘wearable technology’ that<br />

coincidentally looks like a watch<br />

and tells the time like a watch?”<br />

The answer is complex.<br />

The comparisons between<br />

a smartwatch and a Swiss<br />

mechanical could be likened<br />

to the debate of natural mined<br />

stones versus lab-created<br />

diamonds.<br />

While both types of devices are<br />

manufactured, one has a storied<br />

heritage and traditional prestige<br />

with a luxury price-tag and<br />

Christian Paul, Bering and ICE-Watch among others, tells <strong>Jeweller</strong> that<br />

the challenge is in attracting Millennials and Gen Z.<br />

“As we see new generations come through, many of our younger target<br />

market are not growing up wearing a watch as we did. As a result, the<br />

watch industry has to be more creative, because people don’t ‘need’ to<br />

wear a watch to tell the time,” he explains.<br />

Younger consumers see watches as a fashion item and an expression<br />

of their personality. “This means that watches have to make a fashion<br />

statement, perform a function or a make statement of status, for<br />

example,” Rose says.<br />

Watch: Kediri<br />

“As we see new generations come through, many of our<br />

younger target market are not growing up wearing a<br />

watch as we did. As a result, the watch industry has to<br />

be more creative, because people don’t ‘need’ to wear<br />

a watch to tell the time”– John Rose, West End Collection<br />

In order to target these younger consumers, some brands have focused<br />

on increasing brand value through marketing techniques, such as<br />

influencer and celebrity endorsements, or adjusted prices to be more<br />

competitive.<br />

Simon Garber is managing director at Heart & Grace, which distributes<br />

Cluse and Pierre Lannier. He tells <strong>Jeweller</strong>, “There has been a shift in<br />

the market as consumers have more options than ever before, however,<br />

we find that people love that Cluse has a RRP entry price point of $149.”<br />

Additionally, Cluse – founded in Amsterdam in 2013 – has found success<br />

through digital marketing with European influencers, with designs that<br />

appeal to trend-conscious younger consumers.<br />

Meanwhile, Luminox, distributed by DGA, recently announced a new<br />

collection designed with international adventurer Bear Grylls. In Australia,<br />

a limited-edition model designed with Bondi Beach lifesavers was<br />

released earlier this year.<br />

The purpose of this marketing strategy is to communicate that Luminox is<br />

a technical, practical and hard-wearing timepiece, clearly differentiating it<br />

from the slick, urban image of many smartwatch brands.<br />

Proudly distributed by<br />

In the mid-range luxury category, other brands, such as Australia’s<br />

Bausele, have extended their product line to include hybrids – that is,<br />

watches that combine the appearance of a traditional mechanical watch<br />

with the digital functions of a smartwatch.<br />

Citizen is also expanding further into hybrids with its Connected and<br />

Eco-Drive models. Meanwhile, Fossil acquired smartwatch manufacturer<br />

Misfit in December 2015 and developed its own operating system, Wear<br />

34 | <strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong><br />

02 9417 0177 | www.dgau.com.au


Apple Watches, 2015-<strong>2020</strong><br />

lasting value, while the other is<br />

a technical marvel with cutting<br />

edge and modern appeal, and a<br />

significantly lower price.<br />

In 2014, Jean-Claude Biver, CEO<br />

of TAG Heuer and president of<br />

Moët-Hennessy Louis Vuitton<br />

SE (LVMH) Watchmaking Division,<br />

said, “An Apple Watch – as<br />

great it can be – will always be<br />

the result of technological and<br />

industrial production processes.<br />

As such, in my opinion, it is<br />

condemned to become obsolete.<br />

Therefore, after a few years, or<br />

less, its value will drop close<br />

to zero… For the time being,<br />

however, there is no comparison<br />

with the designs of Swiss<br />

watchmakers.<br />

There is no interest in the Swiss<br />

high-end and prestige-brand<br />

companies to create, produce,<br />

and sell watches whose values<br />

will likely vastly decrease over a<br />

short period of time, and which<br />

one day will not be repairable.”<br />

His comments proved prescient;<br />

Apple quietly withdrew its<br />

luxury 18-carat gold Apple<br />

Watch – which reportedly cost<br />

$US10,000 – $17,000 – in 2016,<br />

after barely a year in the market.<br />

The remaining Apple Watch<br />

models have reportedly outsold<br />

all Swiss watch brands combined<br />

for the past four years. Yet, on<br />

the basis of Strategy Analytics’<br />

estimates, Apple’s revenue from<br />

its smartwatches would total<br />

$US6.1–15.3 billion ($AU9–23<br />

billion) – significantly less than<br />

the Swiss watch industry at<br />

$AU37 billion.<br />

Watch repair products -<br />

whether working from<br />

your shop or home.<br />

Seiko & Energizer watch batteries, caseback<br />

openers, screwdrivers, tweezers and many<br />

more on our new website.<br />

Free delivery to shop or home.<br />

OS. By 2018, it had released more than<br />

350 different ‘wearable’ models – both<br />

smartwatches and hybrids – across its<br />

eight brands.<br />

The hybrid strategy may well pay dividends;<br />

Juniper Research has predicted hybrid<br />

watch shipments will increase by 460 per<br />

cent between 2018 and 2022.<br />

However, while smartwatches have<br />

evidently sparked change in the fashion<br />

and mid-range categories, it appears the<br />

evolution goes both ways.<br />

Increasingly, smartwatches are designed<br />

to imitate traditional dive watches and<br />

other tactical models.<br />

An example is Garmin’s Marq Collection,<br />

which bears some resemblance to<br />

Citizen’s Land, Sea and Air ranges; its<br />

Captain, Aviator and Adventurer models<br />

include features such as ‘regatta timers’<br />

and rotating bezels.<br />

Meanwhile, some industry commentators<br />

have identified the trend of ‘functionality<br />

fatigue’ in consumers, who prefer simpler<br />

products that are more ‘watch’ than ‘smart’.<br />

Jay McGregor, senior consumer<br />

technology contributor Forbes, wrote<br />

in February, “Years of testing overly<br />

functional wearables has taught me<br />

two things: they don’t perform tasks as<br />

well as your phone and they are, more<br />

often than not, just a distraction.<br />

“If a company slaps a $300 price tag on<br />

device, it [had] better do a lot of things.<br />

But how about, instead, it doesn’t?”<br />

Besides price, traditional fashion watches<br />

also have an aesthetic advantage over<br />

smartwatches. The appearance of a<br />

smartwatch largely depends on its<br />

hardware; more functions require a<br />

heftier case or a larger display.<br />

Meanwhile, watch movements have<br />

THE BASEL<br />

ROLLERCOASTER<br />

1991<br />

Cartier, Baume &<br />

Mercier, Gérald<br />

Genta, Daniel<br />

Roth and Piaget<br />

leave Basel to<br />

form their own<br />

Geneva show<br />

2007<br />

Baselworld<br />

welcomes<br />

100,000<br />

attendees for<br />

<br />

2011<br />

More than<br />

2,000 exhibitors<br />

are present at<br />

Baselworld<br />

2013<br />

Hall 1 is opened,<br />

<br />

space for<br />

exhibitors<br />

2018<br />

Exhibitor<br />

numbers fall to<br />

less than 700;<br />

Swatch Group<br />

discontinues<br />

involvement<br />

<strong>2020</strong><br />

Show moved<br />

to <strong>April</strong>, then<br />

cancelled due to<br />

pandemic<br />

2021<br />

Show moved to<br />

January – will<br />

it succeed?<br />

enjoyed centuries of development into<br />

ever-slimmer cases. The functionality of a<br />

smartwatch is also dependent on software,<br />

which can frustrate consumers and limit<br />

choice; for example, an Apple Watch cannot<br />

be paired with an Android phone.<br />

Additionally, extra charges may be required<br />

to use mobile functions, such as text<br />

messages and social media notifications.<br />

Perhaps most significantly, smartwatches<br />

quickly become obsolete. In Fossil’s most<br />

recent quarterly report, CEO Kartsotis said,<br />

“We are disappointed to close the year with<br />

a challenging fourth quarter, which primarily<br />

reflects lower than expected performance in<br />

our older generation connected products.”<br />

Meanwhile, traditional watches can be<br />

repaired and serviced, lasting for decades<br />

and maintaining their timeless features.<br />

However, even when customers choose a<br />

smartwatch over a hybrid or fashion model,<br />

retailers can benefit.<br />

In 2014, Jean-Claude Biver, CEO of TAG<br />

Heuer and president of Moët-Hennessy<br />

Louis Vuitton SE (LVMH) Watchmaking<br />

Division, said, “The Apple Watch is certainly<br />

a promotion tool... Apple is preparing this<br />

generation to make it easier, one day, to<br />

wear a real watch.”<br />

Additionally, jewellers have begun to create<br />

custom metal smartwatch straps that mimic<br />

jewellery, while Swarovski manufactures a<br />

crystal-embellished Apple Watch case.<br />

Whether they are classified as a real watch,<br />

fancy toy, or disposable and expensive<br />

distraction, smartwatches are yet to<br />

conquer the traditional category entirely.<br />

And it is the responsibility of retailers to<br />

ensure consumers are aware of the benefits<br />

of different products, and walk out of the<br />

store – or check out of the e-shop – with<br />

a timepiece that they love.<br />

Headlights are back in stock! The handy swivel<br />

is ideal for watch repair, walking, reading, or just<br />

trying to find the kids or remote control at home!<br />

Need help to ensure all your devices stay<br />

working? Energizer A23, E90, AA, AAA, C, D,<br />

camera, hearing aid, lithium, battery chargers<br />

and rechargeable batteries.<br />

Reminder to change your 9-volt smoke alarm<br />

battery; FREE with every order when you<br />

mention this ad.<br />

NEW<br />

WEBSITE<br />

Mention this advert for<br />

FREE HOME/SHOP DELIVERY &<br />

FREE SMOKE ALARM BATTERY<br />

It’s easy to place your order!<br />

orders@thebatteryman.com.au<br />

Free Fax: 1800 028 887<br />

Free Call: 1800 244 354<br />

Text or Ph: 0414 682 423<br />

thebatteryman.com.au


Product Showcase<br />

NEW RELEASE<br />

Adina<br />

Oceaneer Automatic<br />

Adina Watches<br />

This new automatic<br />

model within the<br />

Oceaneer collection<br />

is a performance-bred<br />

watch with a classic<br />

look. Equally at home<br />

on the beach or in the<br />

boardroom, versatility<br />

and functionality are<br />

key. Like every Adina<br />

watch, the Oceaneer<br />

Automatic has been<br />

meticulously handassembled<br />

by a<br />

qualified watchmaker<br />

in Brisbane, Australia.<br />

A<br />

NEW RELEASE<br />

Baume & Mercier<br />

Clifton Baumatic<br />

Duraflex Group Australia<br />

The Clifton Baumatic combines<br />

understated elegance and<br />

technical reliability, thanks<br />

to the latest generation of<br />

the Baumatic calibre – the<br />

BM13 – which is certified by<br />

the Contrôle Officiel Suisse<br />

des Chronomètres (COSC) and<br />

resistant to the magnetic fields<br />

encountered in daily life.<br />

The Clifton Baumatic is the<br />

essential companion for the<br />

aesthetically-inclined, who<br />

are in perpetual pursuit of<br />

performance and nnovation.<br />

B<br />

NEW RELEASE<br />

Citizen<br />

Automatic Diver<br />

Ciitizen Australia<br />

Stand out from the<br />

crowd with this striking<br />

Automatic Diver<br />

timepiece. With its<br />

beautiful green bezel<br />

and a sleek black dial,<br />

this ISO-compliant<br />

watch is a divers’ new<br />

favourite. Its titanium<br />

case is five times<br />

harder than stainless<br />

steel yet 40 per cent<br />

lighter, making it<br />

perfect for everyday<br />

wear. Its mineral glass<br />

case has a day/date<br />

display, and the watch<br />

has a power reserve<br />

of 40 hours once<br />

completely wound.<br />

C<br />

New & Classic<br />

WATCH<br />

Showcase<br />

<strong>Jeweller</strong> has compiled a snapshot of products from leading watch<br />

brands, from the latest timepieces on the market to classic best-sellers.<br />

NEW RELEASE<br />

Cluse<br />

Triomphe Silver/<br />

Salmon Pink Mother<br />

of Pearl<br />

Heart & Grace<br />

Featuring a salmon<br />

pink mother-of-pearl<br />

dial and silver-toned<br />

case & bracelet, this<br />

Triomphe watch is the<br />

perfect companion on<br />

ambitious days and<br />

nights. With its stainless<br />

steel 33mm case and<br />

link-style bracelet, it’s<br />

on trend and built to<br />

last. The bracelet can<br />

be interchanged with<br />

any 16mm Cluse<br />

watch strap.<br />

BESTSELLER<br />

Cluse<br />

Féroce Gold White/<br />

Gold Link<br />

Heart & Grace<br />

The Cluse Féroce is a<br />

classic, and an ode to<br />

minimalism and joie<br />

de vivre. Its 36mm<br />

case is refined yet<br />

eye-catching, while<br />

the matte white dial<br />

blends perfectly with<br />

its gold-toned case<br />

and link bracelet. The<br />

strap of this Féroce<br />

model can also be<br />

easily interchanged<br />

with any 18mm Cluse<br />

watch strap.<br />

NEW RELEASE<br />

Cluse<br />

Vigoureux Silver Petrol<br />

Blue/ Silver Link<br />

Heart & Grace<br />

The Vigoureux is Cluse’s<br />

take on a luxury sports<br />

watch – minimalist<br />

and ultra-thin, but also<br />

masculine and bold. It<br />

is a conversation starter<br />

par excellence with<br />

its striking petrol blue<br />

sunray dial, integrated<br />

stainless-steel bracelet<br />

with invisible butterfly<br />

clasp, and perfectly<br />

brushed and polished<br />

case. The Vigoureux<br />

is a new look for the<br />

Cluse man.<br />

36 | <strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


NEW RELEASE<br />

Bausele<br />

Vintage 2.0 GT<br />

Bausele<br />

The Vintage 2.0 is<br />

unlike any other<br />

smartwatch. Activity<br />

tracking, sleep<br />

monitoring and<br />

smart notifications<br />

are built into<br />

this classic-style<br />

timepiece, which<br />

connects to your<br />

phone via a tailored<br />

app. Manage how you<br />

want to be notified and<br />

what you can switch<br />

off with the Vintage<br />

2.0, Australia’s first<br />

smartwatch.<br />

NEW RELEASE<br />

Bausele<br />

OceanMoon The Drift<br />

Bausele<br />

The much-loved<br />

Oceanmoon timepiece<br />

has had a significant<br />

upgrade. The new<br />

Drift model draws<br />

inspiration from<br />

Australia’s rugged<br />

coastline. Limited<br />

to just 600 pieces,<br />

the Oceanmoon<br />

range features<br />

Nanoceram glass,<br />

believed to be a<br />

world-first innovation.<br />

Each model comes<br />

with a free bonus<br />

strap, including a fully<br />

recycled plastic option.<br />

NEW RELEASE<br />

Bulova<br />

Marine Star<br />

Citizen Australia<br />

The Bulova Marine Star<br />

is water-resistant<br />

to 100m and features a<br />

six-hand chronograph<br />

function with calendar,<br />

grey ion-plated<br />

stainless-steel case<br />

with rotating ring<br />

to measure elapsed<br />

time, and a bold red<br />

dial with luminous<br />

hands and markers.<br />

This 43mm model<br />

comes with an ionplated<br />

stainless-steel<br />

bracelet with fold-over<br />

buckle closure, safety<br />

bar and extender.<br />

BESTSELLER<br />

Classique<br />

Ladies GP<br />

SAMS Group Australia<br />

This 26mm Swiss<br />

quartz watch features<br />

a gold-plated stainlesssteel<br />

case pave-set<br />

with 51 diamonds,<br />

with a scratchresistant<br />

sapphire<br />

crystal face. The<br />

gold-plated stainlesssteel<br />

link bracelet<br />

has a push-button<br />

deployment buckle,<br />

while Roman numeral<br />

hour markers and a<br />

date display add to<br />

the timelessly elegant<br />

feel. A matching gents<br />

model is available.<br />

BESTSELLER<br />

Classique<br />

Aviator Skeleton<br />

SAMS Group Australia<br />

The Classique Aviator<br />

Skeleton features a<br />

17-gem Swiss-made<br />

mechanical skeleton<br />

movement within its<br />

stainless-steel case.<br />

For men who enjoy<br />

a bold and technical<br />

watch, this model<br />

has a blue and rosegold<br />

toned elements.<br />

Measuring 48mm,<br />

it is fitted with an<br />

anti-shock balance<br />

wheel and is water<br />

resistant to 50m.<br />

BESTSELLER<br />

Classique<br />

Mechanical Skeleton<br />

Pocket Watch<br />

SAMS Group Australia<br />

This gold-plated<br />

mechanical wind-up<br />

pocket watch features<br />

a striking ‘skeleton’<br />

design with a Swiss<br />

movement. Measuring<br />

approximately 49mm,<br />

the case has a<br />

push-open lid, front<br />

and back. The ideal<br />

timepiece or gift for<br />

men who appreciate<br />

the watchmaking<br />

tradition.<br />

BESTSELLER<br />

Coinwatch<br />

Summit<br />

Mason Fair<br />

The Summit series has defined<br />

Coinwatch since its inception. The<br />

watch is customisable by year date, allowing<br />

customers to create a truly unique timepiece<br />

that commemorates a special or significant<br />

year. The watch houses a Swiss movement<br />

and comes with a three-year warranty with<br />

free express delivery Australia-wide.<br />

NEW RELEASE<br />

Coinwatch<br />

Jilly<br />

Mason Fair<br />

The Jilly features a beautiful two-tone kangaroo<br />

half-penny dial with Swarovski crystals around<br />

the bezel. It celebrates not only iconic Australian<br />

coins, but a year special to the wearer as custom<br />

date coins can be ordered. The watch comes<br />

with a three-year warranty and Mason Fair’s<br />

leading after-sales service.<br />

<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 37


Watch Showcase<br />

E<br />

BESTSELLER<br />

EPOS Switzerland<br />

Sportive<br />

Stella Timepieces<br />

This sporty stainless-steel watch from<br />

Swiss manufacturer EPOS features a<br />

striking green sunray dial protected by<br />

scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. The case<br />

measures 42mm while the stainless-steel link<br />

strap creates a classically masculine feel.<br />

BESTSELLER<br />

EPOS Switzerland<br />

Ladies 4401<br />

Stella Timepieces<br />

The elegant 4401 features a 29mm stainless<br />

steel case in an on-trend rose gold tone. The<br />

black mother-of-pearl dial has matching rose<br />

gold-toned hour markers, while the black<br />

leather strap adds to the sophisticated look.<br />

Bear Grylls Survival<br />

3740 Master series<br />

More on luminox.com.au<br />

Proudly distributed by<br />

BESTSELLER<br />

Grovana<br />

GMT Moontimer<br />

Stella Timepieces<br />

The GMT Moontimer<br />

from Swiss brand<br />

Grovana displays<br />

two time-zones<br />

with additional<br />

moon-phase and<br />

date functions. The<br />

rose gold-plated,<br />

stainless-steel case<br />

measures 41mm<br />

and incorporates<br />

three Swiss-made<br />

Ronda quartz<br />

movements. The<br />

chocolate crocodileprint<br />

leather strap is<br />

comfortable to wear<br />

and features a rose<br />

gold-toned buckle.<br />

BESTSELLER<br />

Grovana<br />

Ladies 3194.1132<br />

Stella Timepieces<br />

Grovana combines<br />

high-quality<br />

materials with<br />

contemporary<br />

Swiss design and<br />

craftsmanship,<br />

together with<br />

excellent<br />

value for<br />

money.<br />

This ladies’<br />

watch features<br />

an understated<br />

circular stainlesssteel<br />

case, with<br />

chic white dial and<br />

blue detailing. The<br />

stainless steel link<br />

bracelet adds a<br />

sporty feel.<br />

02 9417 0177 | www.dgau.com.au


BESTSELLER<br />

EasyRead Time Teacher Standard<br />

EasyRead Time Teacher<br />

EasyRead’s best-selling standard<br />

watches feature a Seiko movement,<br />

fabric strap and a special teaching dial<br />

that children find very easy to understand<br />

and remember. Mums and dads will love<br />

this watch as it makes teaching this<br />

skill simple and fun.<br />

<br />

<br />

BESTSELLER<br />

EasyRead Time Teacher Waterproof<br />

EasyRead Time Teacher<br />

This high-quality waterproof watch<br />

from EasyRead Time Teacher is perfect<br />

for the active child. Milled from a<br />

stainless-steel billet, with a stainless<br />

screw-in back plate and four O-rings<br />

at the crown, it has a toughened glass<br />

lens recessed 0.5mm for protection, and<br />

houses a Seiko movement.<br />

BESTSELLER<br />

Frédérique Constant<br />

Slimline Power<br />

Reserve Manufacture<br />

Citizen Australia<br />

Frédérique Constant<br />

is proud to add its<br />

28th in-house calibre<br />

within its Manufacture<br />

collection. The inhouse<br />

movement also<br />

boasts an extraordinary<br />

50-hour power reserve.<br />

The watch features<br />

hours, minutes and<br />

a date display. The<br />

40mm case in rose<br />

gold-plated stainless<br />

steel has sophisticated<br />

Roman numerals and a<br />

sunray effect with black<br />

hands. The finishing<br />

touch is an elegant<br />

alligator strap with a<br />

deployant clasp.<br />

F<br />

G<br />

NEW RELEASE<br />

Gregio<br />

Ladies Rose Gold<br />

Lilac Lily<br />

Time is precious,<br />

like jewellery.<br />

Follow every<br />

minute with a<br />

Gregio watch,<br />

exclusively<br />

designed and<br />

produced in<br />

Greece. This<br />

ladies’ watch<br />

houses a Gregio<br />

movement within<br />

its stunning round<br />

case, finished in<br />

a rose gold tone<br />

with matching<br />

mesh stainless<br />

steel bracelet.<br />

BESTSELLER<br />

Grunt<br />

GBKS<br />

Mason Fair<br />

Water resistant to<br />

200m, the Grunt<br />

GBKS features a<br />

hardened, scratchresistant<br />

and shatterproof<br />

mineral crystal<br />

face recessed in a<br />

fixed, diamond-like<br />

carbon (DLC) coated<br />

bezel. The hands and<br />

numerals glow in the<br />

dark due to the longlasting<br />

and luminous<br />

Super-Luminova<br />

pigment. Comes<br />

with a five-year<br />

limited warranty.<br />

NEW RELEASE<br />

ICE-Watch<br />

Ice Solar | West End Collection<br />

The new Ice Solar collection<br />

is an environmentally friendly<br />

watch manufactured from<br />

recycled plastics. Plus,<br />

the battery never has to be<br />

replaced due to the solar rim<br />

under the bezel of the watch.<br />

If a watch is an expression<br />

of who you are, then<br />

the Ice Solar will<br />

certainly let everyone<br />

know that you care.<br />

I<br />

• 100m Water Resistant<br />

• Screw In Crown<br />

• Screw Down Back<br />

• Stainless Steel<br />

• Day / Date Indicator<br />

• Anti Smash Glass Protection bezel<br />

@RingersWestern<br />

<br />

@ringerswestern<br />

E orders@samsgroup.com.au<br />

W samsgroup.com.au P 02 9290 2199


Watch Showcase<br />

NEW RELEASE<br />

Luminox<br />

Bear Grylls Survival Series<br />

Duraflex Group Australia<br />

Luminox watches perform<br />

in extreme situations, and<br />

the Bear Grylls Survival<br />

Series is designed to<br />

help you make it through.<br />

Whether it’s the countdown<br />

dive zone on the Sea watch,<br />

the walking speed scale or<br />

paracord strap on the Land,<br />

or SOS in Morse Code on<br />

the 300m-water resistant<br />

Master series, these<br />

timepieces will be your<br />

trusty companions and help<br />

you conquer any conditions.<br />

L<br />

NEW RELEASE<br />

Maserati<br />

Traguardo Sports Chronograph<br />

West End Collection<br />

Maserati conjures up<br />

images of elegant lines,<br />

graceful speed and high<br />

class. The Maserati<br />

Traguardo Sports<br />

Chronograph embodies<br />

all of these elements<br />

M<br />

within its rose gold-toned<br />

stainless steel case with<br />

a luxury leather strap.<br />

One of the world’s most<br />

prestigious sports car<br />

manufacturers, Maserati<br />

is now a luxury lifestyle<br />

timepiece too.<br />

BESTSELLER<br />

Mondaine<br />

Evo 2<br />

Duraflex Group Australia<br />

The Evo 2 collection has<br />

been revamped with modern<br />

style and sophistication. The<br />

40mm case features a sophisticated<br />

yet easy-to-read dial designed<br />

with Mondaine’s distinctive hour<br />

and minute hands and iconic red<br />

seconds hand, as well as a calendar<br />

display. Comfortable to wear<br />

and immaculately balanced, the<br />

Evo 2 is ideal for casual day-to-day<br />

wear or as a business watch.<br />

NEW RELEASE<br />

Pierre Lannier<br />

Mens Automatic<br />

Skeleton Gold<br />

Blue/Brown<br />

Heart & Grace<br />

Gold-toned stainless<br />

steel harmonises with<br />

matching hands and Roman<br />

numeral hour markers in<br />

the stylish Skeleton model<br />

from Pierre Lannier. The dial<br />

shows the mechanism while<br />

the elegant blue hue on the<br />

periphery creates a classic,<br />

masculine and on trend look.<br />

P<br />

NEW RELEASE<br />

Pierre Lannier<br />

Ladies Automatic<br />

Skeleton Rose Gold<br />

Silver/Silver Mesh<br />

Heart & Grace<br />

Made in France, like all<br />

Pierre Lannier watches, the<br />

Ladies Automatic Skeleton<br />

is simply irresistible. The<br />

automatic movement<br />

guarantees precision, while<br />

the rose gold and silver<br />

colour combination gives it<br />

an elegantly French finish.<br />

A sophisticated mesh strap<br />

is the perfect final touch.<br />

BESTSELLER<br />

NEW RELEASE<br />

Swiss Alpine Military<br />

Ladies Leader<br />

Stella Timepieces<br />

Swiss Alpine Military<br />

combines precision with<br />

reliability and durability.<br />

The watch stands out<br />

thanks to an athletic<br />

look and highquality<br />

materials. Swiss<br />

Alpine Military watches<br />

offer the additional bonus<br />

of very clear watch dials.<br />

This Ladies Leader model<br />

features a stainless steel<br />

case and bracelet with a<br />

white dial, perfect for<br />

professional women who<br />

require a comfortable,<br />

functional timepiece<br />

without sacrificing style.<br />

S<br />

Thomas Sabo<br />

Code TS<br />

Duraflex Group Australia<br />

Timeless, versatile and unisex,<br />

the Code TS watch is an iconic<br />

companion for everyday life<br />

and special occasions. The flat<br />

case features a three-hand<br />

movement and date display,<br />

paired with a slender, lengthadjustable<br />

Milanese bracelet.<br />

The model is characterised by<br />

the distinctive Thomas Sabo<br />

aesthetic, blending modern<br />

features with inspiration from<br />

the classic men’s watches<br />

of the 1950s. The contrast<br />

between the polished bezel<br />

and the brushed stainless steel<br />

case adds an elegant look. The<br />

bracelet of the Code TS watch<br />

is easy to change and provides<br />

maximum styling flexibility.<br />

T<br />

40 | <strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


NEW RELEASE<br />

Maurice Lacroix<br />

Aikon Automatic<br />

West End Collection<br />

The new release from Swiss<br />

manufacturing powerhouse<br />

Maurice Lacroix unites the<br />

brand’s tradition of unique<br />

innovation with a contemporary,<br />

urban aesthetic. Aikon is a sporty,<br />

elegant collection that embodies<br />

the complex nature of time. The<br />

watch measures 42mm, is 200m<br />

water resistant and finished with<br />

a stylish Clous de Paris dial.<br />

NEW RELEASE<br />

Police | Kediri<br />

Duraflex Group Australia<br />

Kediri stands out within the new Police<br />

collection, with the 46mm octagonal<br />

case expressing rebellion, individuality<br />

and an unconventional streak. The case<br />

shape and contrasting top ring make<br />

for a striking design blend.<br />

NEW RELEASE<br />

Police | Luang<br />

Duraflex Group Australia<br />

Luang, meaning ‘royal’ in Thai, is from<br />

Police’s new collection. Its design exudes<br />

confidence and style with a 48mm jumbo<br />

casing, luminous hands and distinctive<br />

date displays. There are a variety of sleek<br />

colourways and straps available.<br />

NEW RELEASE<br />

TW Steel<br />

ACE Diver<br />

Duraflex Group Australia<br />

Coming in five adventurous<br />

designs, the new ACE Diver is<br />

a powerhouse of confidence<br />

wrapped up in a sleek<br />

design. The key elements<br />

are all present: bold design,<br />

luxurious materials, and<br />

cutting-edge technology.<br />

Powered by Ronda 5030.D<br />

Swiss Made movements, and<br />

with a battery life of 4.5 years,<br />

the ACE Diver has a 44mm<br />

case, waterproof to 300m,<br />

with scratch-resistant, antireflective<br />

sapphire crystal,<br />

and Swiss Super-Luminova<br />

pigment. All timepieces<br />

feature a soft rubber strap<br />

and come in a luxury gift box.<br />

<br />

Proudly distributed by<br />

02 9417 0177 | www.dgau.com.au


BUSINESS<br />

Retail Strategy<br />

REAL REASONS YOU CAN’T CLOSE THE SALE<br />

– AND HOW TO OVERCOME THEM<br />

To increase the effectiveness of your sales techniques, it is critical to understand your<br />

customer’s behaviour and thinking, writes BRI WILLIAMS.<br />

There was once a judge who, at the start<br />

of every trial, would step out from behind<br />

the bench, approach the defendant, and<br />

shake their hand. “I have just shaken the<br />

hand of an innocent person,” he would<br />

proclaim. Why did he bother?<br />

To customers, you are guilty until proven<br />

innocent – they are predisposed not to buy<br />

your product or service.<br />

The upshot is you can often be at crosspurposes<br />

with your customer during the<br />

sales process.<br />

The first step is to prove you understand<br />

their objective. Don’t start your sales<br />

process by talking about ‘yourself’.<br />

Many salespeople open by discussing their<br />

value proposition, using statements like,<br />

“We do x, and we do y”.<br />

As we know, the Western justice system is<br />

predicated on the concept that a defendant<br />

is presumed innocent until proven guilty.<br />

However, jury members are prone to judge<br />

the defendant before the facts are even<br />

introduced, and throughout the trial, will<br />

seek confirmatory evidence for their view.<br />

For many, the defendant is ‘guilty until<br />

proven innocent’.<br />

By proclaiming the defendant innocent,<br />

the judge used his authority to correct the<br />

decision-making frame for jurors: start<br />

from a point of innocence, not guilt.<br />

So, how does this relate, and what does<br />

this mean for, you as a retailer?<br />

In business, you are the defendant and<br />

your customers are like jurors, who arrive<br />

at decision of purchasing decisions based<br />

on expectations.<br />

You think they will make a decision based<br />

on factors that you consider important<br />

– for example, how much time you have<br />

put into designing or manufacturing your<br />

product, or your credibility, experience and<br />

expertise.<br />

However, they are using their own frame<br />

of reference, such as how the price of your<br />

product compares to other options, the<br />

opportunity cost of their time and money if<br />

they spend it with you, and their deepseated<br />

motivations for wanting to buy.<br />

Once this is understood, you can use<br />

behavioural science techniques in order to<br />

change the customer’s frame of reference.<br />

In essence, you become the judge that<br />

shakes the defendant’s hand.<br />

Changing behaviour<br />

There are several simple ways to re-frame<br />

your customer’s thinking.<br />

Re-frame the<br />

context for<br />

a decision;<br />

that means<br />

moving the<br />

customer away<br />

from points of<br />

comparison or<br />

assumptions<br />

about your<br />

product<br />

Instead, communicate that you understand<br />

your customer’s needs or wants, and<br />

describe how your product or service can<br />

solve it.<br />

Next, re-frame the context for a decision;<br />

that means moving the customer away<br />

from points of comparison or assumptions<br />

about your product.<br />

A famous example of re-framing is Red<br />

Bull. The company did not market the<br />

beverage within the hyper-competitive<br />

soft-drink sector.<br />

Instead, the marketing team re-framed its<br />

category to ‘functional’ drinks. In doing so,<br />

they added to the product’s perceived value<br />

and were able to charge substantially more<br />

per unit.<br />

To change your customer’s behaviour,<br />

you may also need to signify why you are<br />

worthy of their trust.<br />

42 | <strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


Retail Strategy<br />

You don’t have a judge to proclaim your<br />

innocence, so you must instead use<br />

credibility cues – for example, testimonials<br />

and online product reviews from previous<br />

customers – to build your reputation.<br />

Finally, you can change the context of your<br />

customer’s decision-making.<br />

There is a popular anecdote describing a<br />

meeting between a chief financial officer<br />

(CFO) and a chief executive officer (CEO) as<br />

they decide how much to spend on training<br />

their employees.<br />

The CFO says, “What if we train people and<br />

they leave?” The CEO responds, “What if<br />

we don’t, and they stay?”<br />

In other words, changing the context of<br />

the decision-making can be helpful in<br />

encouraging your customer to re-think the<br />

position not to buy.<br />

What if they purchase your product as a<br />

gift, and the recipient doesn’t like it?<br />

On the other hand, what if they don’t buy<br />

it and the recipient is disappointed they<br />

received nothing at all?<br />

All about the angles<br />

One of my hobbies is stone carving: taking<br />

a hammer and chisel to a block of hard<br />

rock to see what emerges.<br />

A mistake in stone carving is to assume<br />

that all stone is the same. In fact, each<br />

piece has its own weaknesses and<br />

strengths.<br />

At first, I must make a few tentative strikes<br />

to allow the stone to reveal something to<br />

me. Once the desired outcome forms in my<br />

mind, I can work towards it.<br />

This is how retailers can approach<br />

behaviour change.<br />

Rather than jumping in with fixed<br />

assumptions, we first need to spend<br />

some time ‘noodling around’ to<br />

understand the person or people we are<br />

trying to influence.<br />

For this task, I use an empathy map<br />

broken into categories, including what<br />

they think and feel, say and do, see and<br />

hear, and their goals.<br />

This tool assists in clarifying the mindset<br />

of the target market or individual<br />

customer, and focuses on the specific<br />

context in which their behaviour is<br />

occurring.<br />

A slab of stone is inert, immovable.<br />

Your customer may seem that way too<br />

– whatever you try, they are not going to<br />

budge.<br />

If you attempt to tackle a slab of stone by<br />

pummelling the centre, it will do one of<br />

two things: resist until you are defeated, or<br />

resist until a fissure forms that destroys it.<br />

In either case, a blunt, frontal assault is<br />

ineffective.<br />

Instead you must use angles, chipping<br />

away at the edges, towards your objective.<br />

The same principle applies to behaviour<br />

change. If you are too blunt or forceful,<br />

your attempts will be resisted.<br />

This is known as reactance, and has<br />

been found to reduce the effectiveness of<br />

advertisements such as Nike’s famous<br />

‘Just Do It’ campaign.<br />

Telling someone they have to do<br />

something, that it will be ‘good for’<br />

them, or even providing a litany of facts<br />

and figures to justify it, is unlikely to be<br />

persuasive.<br />

Instead, the behavioural science-based<br />

approach is to anticipate reasons for<br />

their resistance and devise angles for<br />

addressing each barrier.<br />

There are three reasons people resist:<br />

• Apathy or laziness – they can’t be<br />

bothered to go through the process of<br />

purchasing<br />

• Decision paralysis – they might be<br />

interested but are confused as to what they<br />

need do<br />

• Anxiety and fear – they might be<br />

interested but are worried about<br />

proceeding<br />

Reasons for<br />

resistance<br />

Apathy or<br />

laziness<br />

Process of<br />

purchasing<br />

is too slow or<br />

convoluted<br />

Decision<br />

paralysis<br />

Too many<br />

choices; hard<br />

to compare<br />

options directly<br />

Anxiety<br />

and fear<br />

Overthinking<br />

the decision;<br />

afraid of<br />

making the<br />

‘wrong’ choice<br />

While it takes a certain amount of force<br />

to chip into rock, it’s more about being<br />

precise and consistent, working with the<br />

stone rather than attempting to have it<br />

yield to your will.<br />

With behaviour change, it’s not about how<br />

much money you spend or how loudly you<br />

communicate your message – it’s about<br />

small, well-considered ‘nudges’.<br />

A clear call-to-action button on a website<br />

can impact conversion rates more than a<br />

TV ad – just as opting out being the default<br />

on a form can change an entire country’s<br />

rate of organ donation.<br />

Moving fruit to within arms’ reach in an<br />

office block cafe can change how the entire<br />

workforce eats.<br />

American writer, philosopher and artist<br />

Elbert Hubbard once said, “The sculptor<br />

produces the beautiful statue by chipping<br />

away such parts of the marble block as are<br />

not needed – it is a process of elimination.”<br />

Influencing another person’s behaviour<br />

can seem very complicated, and a natural<br />

tendency is to try to add more information<br />

or interactions.<br />

But as with stone carving, behaviour<br />

change can be more effective through<br />

elimination: eliminating superfluous<br />

information, eliminating unnecessary<br />

choices, and eliminating ‘noise’ that<br />

distracts from the objective.<br />

By focusing your efforts on the three<br />

science-based reasons for resistance<br />

– apathy, paralysis and anxiety – you<br />

can eliminate indecision efficiently<br />

and effectively.<br />

And by reframing your product and your<br />

sales approach, you can change your<br />

customer-jurors’ minds.<br />

BRI WILLIAMS is founder of People<br />

Patterns, a specialist consultancy that<br />

applies behavioural economics to customer<br />

purchasing patterns. briwilliams.com.au<br />

<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 43


BUSINESS<br />

Selling<br />

Why repeat sales are so important<br />

– and how you can increase them<br />

One of the most cost-effective ways to improve your business is to focus on repeat sales.<br />

RICHARD SHAPIRO explains how to keep customers coming back to your store.<br />

With summer over and the first quarter<br />

of trading behind us, we are moving into<br />

the autumn season – which is a perfect<br />

time to set our sights on some ideas to<br />

generate repeat business.<br />

While much emphasis is placed on<br />

acquiring new customers, repeat sales<br />

are the lifeblood of any retail business.<br />

That is because you do not have to spend<br />

money attracting a customer who already<br />

shops with you.<br />

The best opportunity for retailers to<br />

generate repeat business is for sales staff<br />

to create and build relationships with<br />

customers.<br />

We all stop at our local coffee shop in the<br />

morning to see Mary the barista who gives<br />

us a big smile.<br />

She knows what we did over Christmas, if<br />

our children had a great summer holiday,<br />

and what our plans are for when they go<br />

back to school.<br />

Once you find your ‘Mary’, you don’t seek<br />

out another, more convenient or cheaper<br />

café; your loyalty is towards Mary.<br />

Here are my six repeat business ideas to<br />

help you become every customer’s ‘Mary’:<br />

Teach sales staff to greet people as they<br />

would a new neighbour into their home.<br />

Communicate how important it is to<br />

smile and connect with customers as<br />

people first.<br />

It’s more important to find out about the<br />

customer and their needs, goals, and<br />

personality, than it is to know exactly<br />

what’s in your inventory.<br />

Ask customers if they have ever been<br />

in your store before and whether they<br />

purchased something or not. If someone<br />

is new, tell them more about your<br />

business, for example the best places to<br />

park in the future, your hours, and the type<br />

of stock you carry.<br />

You can also let them know how long<br />

you have been in business, your other<br />

locations, the details of your return<br />

Treat your customers as friends and you will retain them for years to come.<br />

policies, and your personal customer<br />

experience philosophy.<br />

It will not only be useful to your customer,<br />

but more importantly, create a dialogue<br />

and relationship.<br />

Always tell the customer you can help<br />

them. People like to feel they are speaking<br />

to a person who can help.<br />

Providing help might require asking<br />

another staff member for advice,<br />

requesting more information from the<br />

customer, or even referring them to<br />

another store.<br />

It’s not important how you help them –<br />

instead, it’s about showing the customer<br />

you care about answering their question or<br />

resolving their problem.<br />

Listen to your customer’s emotions. Pay<br />

attention to what customers are feeling,<br />

not just what they are saying.<br />

In almost every instance, you will be able to<br />

easily tell if someone is happy, frustrated,<br />

excited or disappointed.<br />

It’s not<br />

important how<br />

you help them<br />

– instead, it’s<br />

about showing<br />

the customer<br />

you care about<br />

answering their<br />

question or<br />

resolving their<br />

problem<br />

By expressing a reaction to their emotional<br />

state – for example, by saying, “You sound<br />

disappointed we don’t have your size<br />

in stock. Let me double-check and get<br />

back to you” – you foster a new and<br />

beneficial relationship.<br />

Have business cards printed for all<br />

sales staff. Doing so will make your<br />

employees feel more important and<br />

valued, and it’s an excellent way to invite<br />

the customer to return.<br />

The employee could say, “I really enjoyed<br />

helping you today. Here is my card with my<br />

contact information.<br />

Now that I know your tastes, I can let you<br />

know if we get something in stock you<br />

might like. Would you prefer me to email,<br />

call or text? Just let me know.”<br />

Keep in touch. Many retailers fail to show<br />

the customer they matter after the sale.<br />

That’s a big mistake. Sending daily emails<br />

can also have a negative effect.<br />

Brainstorm with your team about the best<br />

ways to show customers they are relevant<br />

after they leave your store.<br />

I grew up in a retail environment. My dad<br />

owned a menswear store and I worked<br />

there in my early teens. I learnt two<br />

important lessons.<br />

Firstly, it is more important to listen and<br />

learn the customer’s state of mind than to<br />

find out their method of payment.<br />

Secondly, when new customers entered<br />

the store, they were strangers. My father<br />

hoped by the time they left they had<br />

become new friends.<br />

If more retailers understood why they visit<br />

the same coffee shop to see their ‘Mary’<br />

and taught their staff the concept that<br />

shoppers are people first, and customers<br />

second, the percentage of repeat<br />

customers would undoubtedly rise.<br />

Richard Shapiro is founder of<br />

The Center For Client Retention,<br />

offering research, training and<br />

consultingservices. tcfcr.com<br />

44 | <strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


BUSINESS<br />

Management<br />

The critical factors when managing your<br />

staff during a recession<br />

Tough trading conditions can bring out the worst in a manager – but they are also an<br />

opportunity to show your best leadership qualities, explains BRIAN JEFFREY.<br />

This article isn’t actually about how to<br />

manage a recession – recessions seem<br />

to manage themselves quite well without<br />

our involvement!<br />

I want to look at what changes we<br />

need to make in our approach to sales<br />

management during recessionary or<br />

otherwise difficult economic times.<br />

And we are certainly experiencing that at<br />

the moment!<br />

First an irreconcilable truth: there will<br />

always be recessions. They’ll come and<br />

go, but you can bet even money that you’ll<br />

see and manage your way through several<br />

before you retire.<br />

Depending on your age, you’ve probably<br />

gone through one or two already. Business<br />

slows down, customers get evasive<br />

or elusive, salespeople get whiny, and<br />

management migraines increase.<br />

Many managers deal with the issue<br />

by cutting advertising, slashing sales<br />

meetings, eliminating sales (and other)<br />

training, and adopting a ‘hunker-down’<br />

attitude in the hopes that the bad times<br />

will turn good again without their being too<br />

involved.<br />

Others become galvanised into total<br />

inactivity, evoking what I call a ‘divine<br />

marketing plan’ – praying for sales – and<br />

making themselves unavailable to help<br />

their salespeople through the crisis.<br />

Of course, I know you aren’t one of those<br />

managers. You have the same problem,<br />

but you’re probably actively seeking some<br />

universal truths and techniques that you<br />

can put into place whenever things get<br />

tough or a recession comes along.<br />

So what can you do? Here are some proven<br />

ideas that work:<br />

Sales and staff meetings<br />

Don’t cancel your sales meetings, hold<br />

them more often. Recessions are when<br />

people need to be together for mutual<br />

support, not left to their own devices.<br />

Increase the frequency but lower the cost<br />

of your meetings.<br />

Make yourself available to your employees and show you value them.<br />

Selling can be extremely lonely and your<br />

salespeople may be feeling neglected<br />

by their customers, and possibly by the<br />

business itself. Help keep their spirits up<br />

with short, frequent meetings.<br />

Short, weekly meetings are ideal. Biweekly<br />

meetings also work well. And<br />

if you are not holding at least one mini<br />

meeting a month, you’re neglecting your<br />

people. So don’t be surprised if they start<br />

wandering off to a company that shows<br />

more appreciation.<br />

Mini meetings should be just that:<br />

mini. You’ll be surprised what you can<br />

accomplish in 15–30 minutes.<br />

Don’t let it become an inquisition from<br />

you or a whining session for the staff; use<br />

the meeting to emphasise positives and<br />

reinforce that both the business and the<br />

staff have weathered this type of storm<br />

before and can do so again, particularly if<br />

they continue to work together.<br />

Team meetings<br />

Ensure that your meetings are<br />

participatory. By that I mean attendees<br />

have an opportunity to talk with one<br />

another and not just to the person at the<br />

front of the room.<br />

I’m not suggesting that your team<br />

meetings become social free-for-alls, but<br />

they should be a vehicle for the free flow of<br />

information and ideas in all directions, not<br />

just from the top down.<br />

Some managers<br />

and storeowners<br />

seem to<br />

disappear when<br />

trading becomes<br />

<br />

you be like that!<br />

Be there to help,<br />

not chide and<br />

reinforce your<br />

employee’s<br />

value<br />

It’s the manager’s job to be a moderator,<br />

not a dictator.<br />

This conversational free flow will also<br />

uncover complaints and concerns. As long<br />

as the meeting doesn’t degenerate into a<br />

bitching session, let your people vent.<br />

Unvented aggravations, like pent-up<br />

steam, can cause a lot of damage when<br />

they finally explode. The meeting is your<br />

safety valve.<br />

If people do vent, don’t become defensive.<br />

In most cases, you don’t have to respond<br />

to the situation, you just need to listen and<br />

acknowledge it.<br />

One-on-one meetings<br />

Also take the time to meet with each staff<br />

member as an individual. Help them to<br />

stay focused; after all, it’s easy to lose<br />

sight of potential opportunities during a<br />

recession.<br />

Selling is still a game of numbers and you<br />

can help your people make their numbers<br />

by helping them ‘find’ their numbers. That<br />

is, assist them in setting realistic goals and<br />

show them which customers to target.<br />

This is the time for you to put on your<br />

mentoring cap and lead the way.<br />

Some managers and storeowners seem to<br />

disappear when trading becomes difficult.<br />

Don’t you be like that!<br />

Be there to help, not chide and reinforce<br />

your employee’s value to the business.<br />

Be accessible, be supportive and most<br />

importantly, be a leader.<br />

The bottom line is that you may not be able<br />

to control the economic climate but if you<br />

manage your people, you’ll manage through<br />

the tough times.<br />

Brian Jeffrey has more than 40 years’<br />

experience in sales management,<br />

training, and business consulting.<br />

quintarra.com<br />

<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 45


BUSINESS<br />

Marketing & PR<br />

Simple and effective ways to boost your<br />

word-of-mouth referrals<br />

Building buzz around your business can be challenging, writes THOMAS YOUNG, but one of the<br />

simplest – and best – ways to market yourself is through your customers.<br />

The most powerful form of marketing<br />

is word-of-mouth referrals. This is true<br />

regardless of the size of your business<br />

or marketing budget. When generating<br />

referrals, your customers become your<br />

sales force!<br />

After all, who better to promote your<br />

products than loyal customers? So, here<br />

are 12 ways you can develop word-of-mouth<br />

referrals for your jewellery store.<br />

Ask for referrals<br />

The easiest way to generate referrals is also<br />

the most important. People want to help<br />

others, especially when you are good at what<br />

you do. Let your customers know that you<br />

are looking for referrals by asking them!<br />

They will be happy to oblige, and some will<br />

go out of their way to help.<br />

Be specific<br />

Provide your referral sources with a few<br />

details about your target market. If you<br />

are not specific in your request, referral<br />

sources will generally not be able to think<br />

of a particular person to whom they could<br />

recommend your store. Make your request<br />

specific: describe your ideal customer.<br />

Align with your customer’s vision<br />

Get inside the head of your customers<br />

and align with their vision – that is, what<br />

they want to accomplish. Be a resource;<br />

understand the needs of your customers.<br />

Referrals will come when they realise that<br />

you really do understand them and that your<br />

goal is to help, not just make a sale.<br />

Develop word-of-mouth promotions<br />

Develop a marketing promotion plan that<br />

encourages referral benefits for your<br />

existing customers. Make the promotion<br />

worth your customer’s time by offering<br />

valuable incentives for new referrals. A good<br />

example is a friends-and-family promotion.<br />

Promote feedback<br />

Ask your customers to evaluate your<br />

products and services and provide feedback<br />

on how you measure up. Share this<br />

information with current customers and new<br />

Turn your customers into your sales force by encouraging referrals.<br />

prospects. Obviously, correct the areas in<br />

which you are deficient and remove barriers<br />

to customer service.<br />

Continue self-development<br />

Commit to constant learning as a business<br />

owner. You must expand ‘out of the box’<br />

and constantly increase and develop your<br />

knowledge and abilities, or you will be left<br />

behind by the competition. Knowledge is<br />

powerful and shoppers will come to you for<br />

expertise before they buy from you.<br />

Build a customer community<br />

Find ways to bring customers together with<br />

other customers. This might be achieved<br />

through your store’s Facebook page or<br />

group, a ‘chat’ section of your website, or<br />

through in-store customer events. This<br />

brings a community of customers together<br />

and stimulates word-of-mouth.<br />

Communicate your competitive advantage<br />

Understand why you are different from the<br />

competition and what sets you apart in the<br />

eyes of the customer. Communicate this<br />

message in your promotional activities.<br />

Be clear in delivering this message; it’s the<br />

most important component of your direct<br />

marketing efforts and the reason people<br />

become loyal customers.<br />

Listen to your customers<br />

In jewellery retail, as in all sales processes,<br />

it pays to become known as an excellent<br />

listener. This communicates that you care<br />

about others and builds an enormous<br />

Look for other<br />

like-minded<br />

businesses<br />

that currently<br />

service your<br />

target market<br />

<br />

help each other<br />

amount of trust. The fact that you are the best<br />

listener will be passed on to others and result<br />

in valuable referrals.<br />

Build alliances<br />

Determine how you can reach your target<br />

market by developing alliances with other<br />

businesses. This is very common on the<br />

internet as websites, Twitter accounts and<br />

Instagram pages link to and interact with<br />

each other with great results.<br />

Look for other like-minded businesses that<br />

currently service your target market and find<br />

ways to help each other.<br />

Learn how to network properly<br />

Take time to learn how to effectively network.<br />

Establish a networking strategy and plan on<br />

helping others, which is the key to successful<br />

networking. Read and learn more about how<br />

to network effectively and seek the advice of<br />

other networking professionals to ask what<br />

makes them successful. They will often share<br />

their secrets.<br />

Develop a website that people talk about<br />

Establish a website that catches peoples’<br />

attention. When people are browsing online<br />

and come across a great website, they<br />

typically tell others about it.<br />

It is very common and easy to share links<br />

with friends, particularly when browsing on<br />

a mobile device. Find a way to make your site<br />

unique by adding value to your target market,<br />

which will make them far more likely to share<br />

your link.<br />

These are a few ways to build word-of-mouth<br />

referrals for your business. Remember, there<br />

is no quick fix in sales and marketing, and no<br />

substitute for excellent customer service or<br />

valuable products and services.<br />

Take the time to strengthen your marketing<br />

efforts, focusing on these areas, and watch<br />

the referrals come pouring in.<br />

THOMAS YOUNG is CEO of Intuitive<br />

Websites. He has 25 years’ marketing and<br />

sales experience. intuitivewebsites.com<br />

46 | <strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


BUSINESS<br />

Logged On<br />

The six keys to creating a website that<br />

improves your sales<br />

There are several simple strategies you can employ to improve your website and<br />

thereby improve online sales, writes DAVID BROWN.<br />

There are many jewellers who feel the<br />

internet is the single biggest threat to<br />

retail growth these days.<br />

Although I believe ‘experiences’ being<br />

preferred over ‘material items’ is also<br />

creating an impact, there’s no doubt<br />

the internet is strong competition that<br />

will continue to increase for the<br />

foreseeable future.<br />

The trend of many online retailers opening<br />

bricks-and-mortar stores shows that a<br />

two-pronged approach to shopping is not<br />

only very effective – it’s essential.<br />

Therefore, it’s important that physical<br />

retail outlets also beef-up their online<br />

presence in order to create the widest<br />

possible retail footprint.<br />

Having a strong, effective website is<br />

a starting point for ensuring you get<br />

the maximum benefit from your online<br />

presence. A good website needs to<br />

incorporate the following factors if its to<br />

become an extra salesperson – and not just<br />

a pretty piece of online wallpaper.<br />

One purpose per page<br />

I’ll let you in on a little secret: most people<br />

are lazy and don’t like to think. Between<br />

making a choice and doing nothing, we tend<br />

to take the do-nothing option.<br />

That’s why a web page that asks a customer<br />

to do multiple things, such as ‘like’ a<br />

Facebook page, sign up to a newsletter,<br />

make a purchase, and enter a competition,<br />

is likely to finish with the customer choosing<br />

none of the above and closing the window.<br />

Each website – with perhaps the exception<br />

of your home page – should ask the<br />

customer to do one thing and that page<br />

should be all about getting the customer to<br />

do whatever that one thing is. Simple!<br />

Oh, and about that home page…<br />

Don’t over-focus on your home page<br />

You might think your home page is the<br />

front door to your site, but chances are<br />

most website visitors are coming in through<br />

the tradesmen’s entrance, so to speak.<br />

Assess your website to ensure it encourages visitors to shop with you.<br />

Google does not give preference to<br />

home pages.<br />

The search engine treats all pages the same<br />

based on their relevance, which means it’s<br />

most likely that a customer who found you<br />

by searching Google for ‘diamonds’ will be<br />

directed to your website’s diamond-specific<br />

page, not the home page.<br />

Only those people specifically searching<br />

for your business will be directed to the<br />

home page and that’s not going to be<br />

most web searchers.<br />

Keep it clean<br />

Less is more, at least when it comes to<br />

your website. An overabundance of images<br />

and words is not conducive to an effective<br />

website. It is there to do a task, not win an<br />

award for artistic achievement.<br />

Many small businesses that utilise web<br />

designers sadly find their site being all<br />

about ‘the look’.<br />

The design is important, of course, but<br />

it should not override user-friendliness<br />

and purpose.<br />

Responsive design<br />

Responsive design refers to your content<br />

being readable on any device. Be it tablet,<br />

laptop or smartphone, your readers<br />

need your website to look tidy regardless<br />

of the format.<br />

Many small<br />

businesses<br />

that utilise web<br />

designers sadly<br />

<br />

being all about<br />

‘the look’<br />

It should automatically adjust – ‘respond’ –<br />

to the screen size upon which it is<br />

being viewed. Most website-building<br />

services, such as Squarespace, include<br />

this feature automatically.<br />

With more than 70 per cent of readers<br />

now using a mobile device to view the<br />

internet, its time your site caught up. Have<br />

you recently viewed your website on your<br />

smartphone? Now is the time.<br />

The power of video<br />

If a picture is worth a thousand words,<br />

then a video is worth a million!<br />

Maybe not quite, but video content is the<br />

preferred means of absorbing content<br />

for an increasing number of web visitors,<br />

especially those in the under-35 market.<br />

Hello, engagement rings!<br />

Furthermore, a high percentage of<br />

websites still don’t offer good video<br />

content, meaning those that do are getting<br />

a jump on their competitors.<br />

It also gives you a chance to stake a<br />

presence on YouTube, which is the world’s<br />

second-largest search engine after<br />

Google. Lights, camera, action, people!<br />

Check your load speed<br />

Most visitors will only give a website<br />

a handful of seconds to load – some<br />

surveys have estimated this to be less<br />

than three seconds.<br />

Yet a large number of businesses are<br />

losing traffic (potential customers)<br />

because they did not spent time and<br />

money to ensure their page load speed<br />

was reduced to within this window.<br />

This issue can be very easily rectified.<br />

There are many ways a website’s<br />

performance can be improved, but start<br />

with these six factors and you’ll be on<br />

the right track to making yours a more<br />

effective business tool.<br />

DAVID BROWN is co-founder and<br />

business mentor of Retail Edge<br />

Consultants.. retailedgeconsultants.com<br />

<strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong> | 47


My Bench<br />

Steve Pallas<br />

Steve Pallas Bespoke <strong>Jeweller</strong>y (formerly GN Designer <strong>Jeweller</strong>s), Melbourne VIC<br />

Age 36 • Years in Trade 19 • Training No formal training, I learnt from my father and previous business partner • First job Diamond Affaire<br />

Other Father and husband<br />

SIGNATURE PIECE<br />

LA LINEAS RING<br />

FINALIST – MEN’S ACCESSORIES & JEWELLERY,<br />

JEWELLERY DESIGN AWARDS 2017<br />

This 18-carat white gold men’s ring features white pave-set<br />

diamonds with black pave-set diamonds elevated on four<br />

pieces. It represents the complex aesthetics of architecture.<br />

FAVOURITE GEMSTONE Diamonds, as I love the<br />

way different colours reflect from them in<br />

the sunlight!<br />

FAVOURITE METAL I am really enjoying working<br />

with platinum – I love the challenge to get the<br />

high-polished finish.<br />

FAVOURITE TOOL Laser machine, as it<br />

broadens your ability to make pieces that were<br />

otherwise almost impossible.<br />

BEST NEW TOOL DISCOVERY Laser engraver.<br />

BEST PART OF THE JOB The excitement of<br />

clients when they pick up their special piece.<br />

WORST PART OF THE JOB The industry not<br />

working together to keep a reasonable profit<br />

margin.<br />

BEST TIP FROM A JEWELLER Take your time<br />

and get it right.<br />

BEST TIP TO A JEWELLER Set yourself up with<br />

a good foundation and build your knowledge.<br />

BIGGEST HEALTH CONCERN ON THE BENCH<br />

Sitting for long periods of time – I’ve suffered with<br />

back issues as a result. To make up for all the<br />

sitting, I need to exercise more often.<br />

LOVE JEWELLERY BECAUSE Each unique piece<br />

has a story behind it.<br />

48 | <strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


OPINION<br />

Soapbox<br />

Where is the accountability and integrity<br />

in the jewellery industry?<br />

With our industry association refusing to lead or enforce quality standards, how can<br />

<br />

The number one thing that frustrates<br />

me about our industry is the <strong>Jeweller</strong>y<br />

Association of Australia (JAA), because I<br />

want them to create some accountability<br />

in the jewellery industry, as there is in<br />

other sectors.<br />

Anyone can come to Australia and sell<br />

jewellery pieces to retailers, but nobody<br />

asks the jewellers who buy that product to<br />

take responsibility for what they ultimately<br />

sell on to the consumer.<br />

I don’t want to criticise anyone, but it’s<br />

about being solutions-focused and doing<br />

what’s best for our industry.<br />

It’s up to the JAA to maintain standards<br />

of quality and accountability. There are<br />

several ways they could do this. Firstly,<br />

make membership mandatory for<br />

manufacturing jewellers and retailers<br />

with simple, low cost fees – say, $100<br />

for basic membership and platinum<br />

membership for $500.<br />

Then, create and enforce a true Code of<br />

Conduct with membership numbers that<br />

must be stamped on every product sold –<br />

specifically imported products.<br />

That way, when low-quality or faulty<br />

products are sold to consumers, we know<br />

who imported it, or who made it, and they<br />

can be held accountable, whether through<br />

a fine or a ban from trading.<br />

It’s about integrity. That should be the<br />

number-one priority for our industry.<br />

What is even more surprising is that other<br />

countries have far better protection for<br />

jewellery consumers. The ‘membership<br />

number’ hallmarking is not a new idea –<br />

it is used in Singapore, Turkey and even<br />

Afghanistan.<br />

In the UK, gold and silver jewellery have<br />

three compulsory marks: the sponsor’s<br />

mark (the manufacturer, importer,<br />

wholesaler, retailer or an individual<br />

who must be registered with a UK assay<br />

office), the guaranteed standard of<br />

fineness, and the assay office where<br />

the piece was tested and marked.<br />

It would be great if Australia had the<br />

same standards, and that is something<br />

the JAA should be trying to make law.<br />

The Gold & Silversmith Guild of Australia<br />

also use a hallmarking system, but<br />

consumers aren’t aware of this and<br />

the standards of the Guild should be<br />

universal in our industry.<br />

If consumers are spending $10,000 or<br />

$20,000 on jewellery, they deserve to<br />

have protection. Right now, there’s more<br />

accountability when you buy a toy from<br />

Kmart. It’s not fair to consumers and it’s<br />

not fair to our industry.<br />

Yes, our customers can go to Consumer<br />

Affairs and complain about a faulty or<br />

low-quality item – but we, as jewellers,<br />

should be the ones taking responsibility.<br />

I’d love my industry association to step in.<br />

They would be able to independently judge<br />

whether an item should be referred to a<br />

higher authority.<br />

I’d happily pay my membership fee if the<br />

association were able to address these<br />

problems. At the moment, I’m not a<br />

member because the $500 I was paying<br />

each year didn’t go towards making<br />

our industry more accountable and<br />

responsible.<br />

Non-members can’t be held responsible<br />

by the JAA. The association would say<br />

that consumers make the choice to buy<br />

from a non-member, but ultimately<br />

membership doesn’t mean anything<br />

without enforcement of standards.<br />

It’s frustrating.<br />

When consumers come to me with<br />

complaints about jewellery they’ve bought<br />

elsewhere, all I can do is write letters to<br />

Consumer Affairs stating what’s wrong.<br />

They might then get help or get their<br />

If consumers<br />

are spending<br />

$10,000 or<br />

$20,000 on<br />

jewellery, they<br />

deserve to have<br />

protection.<br />

Right now,<br />

there’s more<br />

accountability<br />

when you buy a<br />

toy from Kmart<br />

money back – but that shouldn’t be my<br />

job to do. The JAA should do that. They<br />

should appoint a member jeweller in<br />

every area to support the consumers.<br />

There is clearly a problem of trust<br />

between jewellers and our customers. I<br />

have heard of people spending upwards<br />

of $25,000 on jewellery while travelling<br />

overseas, with jewellers they have never<br />

bought from before.<br />

Why aren’t those customers spending<br />

their money with a jeweller in Australia?<br />

Some might assume that the price paid<br />

overseas was cheaper – but that is often<br />

not the case.<br />

In fact, the consumer could have<br />

purchased a similar item from a local<br />

jeweller for a lower price. That is part<br />

of the problem.<br />

Persistent discounting doesn’t work,<br />

particularly if you want to attract high-end<br />

customers. Discounting simply erodes<br />

trust and value. That’s another issue that<br />

our industry needs to address collectively,<br />

perhaps through our association.<br />

Alternatively, another type of customer<br />

might see a jeweller’s designs online and<br />

then take them to be made elsewhere.<br />

Intellectual property is not well-protected<br />

when it comes to jewellery, and that is<br />

another area our industry association<br />

could help to fix; if membership was<br />

mandatory, the association could<br />

discipline those who devalue our industry<br />

by copying and undercutting.<br />

This is our industry. If we don’t help each<br />

other, who is going to help us?<br />

Name: : Emil Ozer<br />

Company: Gabriel <strong>Jeweller</strong>s<br />

Position: Owner<br />

Location: Castle Hill, Sydney NSW<br />

Years in Industry: 45<br />

50 | <strong>April</strong> <strong>2020</strong>


When 2 shows<br />

are better than 1<br />

INTERNATIONAL<br />

J E W ELLERY & WATCH<br />

FAIR<br />

September 12 – 14, <strong>2020</strong><br />

September 12 – 15, <strong>2020</strong><br />

Announcing your opportunity to benefit from two shows in one<br />

premium location. For the very first time, the Sydney September Gift Fair,<br />

now called Spring Gift & Lifestyle, will run next door to the<br />

International <strong>Jeweller</strong>y & Watch Fair in <strong>2020</strong>. This development will<br />

ensure greater time efficiencies for retailers as it will allow them to<br />

maximise their time away from the store and is sure to open your<br />

business to some new possibilities!<br />

ICC Sydney Exhibition Centre, Darling Harbour<br />

WWW.JEWELLERYFAIR.COM.AU<br />

Organised by


An exclusive collection of mechanical pocket<br />

watches with a variety of styles and choices.<br />

This attractive Classique Diamond-Set watch is cr<br />

to perfection in an elegant Stainless Steel body wi<br />

two tone plating (other executions illustrated).<br />

Diamond set on case and dial under a scratch resi<br />

sapphire crystal these beautiful slimline watches a<br />

available in matching ladies and gents.<br />

Built to last, it’s water resistant to 30 metres, is fitt<br />

with a quality Swiss Made Movement with Jewels a<br />

carries a peace-of-mind 2 Year International Warr<br />

SAMS GROUP<br />

AUSTRALIA<br />

E orders@samsgroup.com.au W samsgroup.com.au P 02 9290 2199<br />

www. Classiquewatches.com

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!