Jeweller - June, Edition I 2020

VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY JUNE 2020, EDITION 1
Classic hits
THE BESTSELLING PRODUCTS THAT
CONTINUE TO DELIGHT CUSTOMERS
Refined strategy
HOW JEWELLERS CAN BENEFIT FROM
REFINING STOCK DURING COVID-19
Fair comment
LATEST NEWS AND UPDATES ON
THE SEPTEMBER JEWELLERY SHOW

THINK
BIG!
Unmissable Experiences
When TWO shows are better than one
September is timed to deliver the Golden Quarter, retailers
busiest and most profitable time of the year. For the first
time, the Spring Gift & Lifestyle Fair will run next door to
the International Jewellery & Watch Fair this September.
jewelleryfair.com.au
INTERNATIONAL
J E W ELLERY & WATCH FAIR
ICC Sydney Exhibition Centre
Darling Harbour
Organised by
September 12 – 14, 2020 Est. 1990
September 12 – 15, 2020

# 1
in Australia
#3
in the World
Jeweller has always been recognised as the #1 trade
magazine in Australia.
Alexa.com, the global ranking system for analysing
website readership, ranks jewellermagazine.com well
above its industry competitors.
Better still, Feedspot, the independent content reading
service, ranks Jeweller #3 in the world. Of all B2B
jewellery publications, we rank just behind the US’s
National Jeweler and the UK’s Professional Jeweller in
Feedspot’s “Top 10 Jewelry Magazines & Publications
To Follow in 2020”.
It’s Jeweller’s commitment to excellence in reporting,
high-quality presentation and readership that sets us
apart. For these reasons during the economic crisis and
global pandemic Jeweller has decided to go fortnightly –
rather than monthly in these challenging times.
We aren’t hibernating we’re ‘hypernating’ to help
retailers and suppliers not only survive but thrive!
VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY

JUNE 2020
Contents
This Month
Industry Facets
8 Upfront
22
10 YEARS AGO
Time Machine: February 2010
10
FACTS & FIGURES
COVID-19 Update
24
MY STORE
Sheila Fleet
28 REFINING FEATURE
Precious metals
4ARABELLA RODEN explores how
COVID-19 has impacted the refining
industry and how jewellers can benefit.
12 Bestseller Showcase
14 News
27
52
54
LEARN ABOUT GEMS
Blue & green tourmalines
MY BENCH
Richelle Perks
SOAPBOX
Catherine Craner
12 BESTSELLERS
4Where to find this product?
Turn page to find out.
Features
28
REFINING FEATURE
Liquid gold: Refining and COVID-19
34
TRADE SHOW FEATURE
State of the fairs
Better Your Business
40
BRANDING STRATEGY
Use narrative cues to connect with consumers, writes DENYSE DRUMMOND-DUNN.
27 LEARN ABOUT GEMS
4Blue and green tourmaline
The tourmaline series
continues with a closer
look at the oceanic hues
of Paraìba, indicolite and
verdelite.
44
46
48
SELLING
IAN ALTMAN provides insights into building a culture of sales excellence.
MANAGEMENT
DAVID BROWN reveals the critical factors to support and lead your staff right now.
MARKETING & PR
Consistent marketing and service boost repeat sales, writes SUE COCKBURN.
50
LOGGED ON
MANDY EDWARDS explains the best metrics for measuring social media success.
52 MY BENCH
4 Meet the jeweller
behind the masterpiece.
FRONT COVER Italian
brand Nomination embodies
cool, contemporary style.
Distributed by Timesupply.
June 2020 | 5

S A MS GR O UP
A U STRA L I A
WE’LL RISE ABOVE THE STORM
These are unsettling times, with COVID-19 impacting our
professional lives and those close to us. We understand it
is challenging to operate under current restrictions, however
we’re getting through this together one day at a time and
there is a light at the end of this tunnel.
Despite the circumstances, take care and make time to
do the things you love with the people you love; it’s
never been more important to support one another, remain
positive and keep smiling.
Wishing you a safe passage through this difficult period.
We’ll rise above the storm.
Steve Der Bedrossian
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER
ARGYLE PINK
DIAMONDS
Semi Precious Jewellery
T: 02 9290 2199 F: 02 9262 1630 E: Pink@samsgroup.com.au W: Samsgroup.com.au

Looking for new product ideas? Maybe you have an unusual request for a diamond or gemstone or perhaps
you need a new supplier for your bread and butter items? Or you are looking for a new watch brand?
The 2020 Suppliers Directory – the “Bible” of the Australian and
New Zealand jewellery industries – has all the answers.
STILL
THE #1
DIRECTORY
280+
Product
Categories
4
Distinct Category
Sections
Individual
Industry
580 Suppliers
Jewellery &
520+ Watch Brands
Suppliers - Are you and your products listed? Retailers – Have you got your copy?
Email info@jewellermagazine.com
Not only is the Supplier Directory the largest and most comprehensive
industry database, you can access it online through any device 24/7.
www.jewellermagazine.com

Upfront
#Instagram hashtags to follow
Alpha Order
#custommadejewellery
34,700+ POSTS
#necklaceoftheday
500,990+ POSTS
Stranger Things
#delicatejewelry
#pavediamonds
Weird, wacky and wonderful
jewellery news from around the world
150,600+ POSTS
60,900+ POSTS
#earcandy
456,300+ POSTS
#instajewels
816,000+ POSTS
#jewellerybox
169,700+ POSTS
HISTORIC GEMSTONE
Rockefeller
Emerald
4The18.04-carat Rockefeller
Emerald began as the
centre stone of a Van Cleef &
Arpels brooch, purchased by
businessman John D Rockefeller
for his wife Abby in 1930.
The Rockefeller Emerald, set in
a diamond and platinum ring by
Raymond Carter Yard: Chistie’s
It was later reset in a platinum and diamond ring by jeweller
Raymond Carter Yard, and sold to Harry Winston for $US5.5
million in 2017. Untreated, the gem boasts vividly saturated
colour and impeccable clarity, and is one of the finest Colombian
emeralds ever unearthed.
Digital Brainwave
#pearladdict
12,600+ POSTS
#silverbracelet
246,000+ POSTS
#vintagejewelry
1.6 MILLION POSTS
Celebrity Style
4Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge has
given her royal seal of approval to UK
jeweller Catherine Zoraida. In a recent
online appearance, the duchess donned
a pair of Gold Fern Drop Earrings, made
from 18-carat gold-plated silver, which
retail for £165 ($AU306).
Image credit: Catherine Zoraida
Pedal to the metal
4Fitness company SoulCycle
– known for its ‘spin’ cycling
classes – has released a
collection of rings designed
by Shanghai-based jeweller
Yi Guo. The delicate designs
feature rainbow sapphires and
gemstones, the word ‘soul’ and
the SoulCycle skull logo in gold
and diamonds. Guo said she was
inspired by her own chain rings,
which she wears while exercising
and “never takes off”.
Web wedding
4US jewellery chain Jared has
launched a ‘virtual wedding
platform’ for couples who have
postponed their nuptials due to
COVID-19. The platform allows
the bride and groom to invite
guests, set a date, and hold
the ceremony online. Several
Jared employees have even
been licensed as marriage
celebrants and are able to
conduct the ceremonies. At
least 600 couples have set
wedding dates on the service.
Loyalty programs
and tools from
Shopify and
BigCommerce
are also being
developed for
Facebook and
Instagram Shops.
4Facebook has launched a new free
e-commerce tool, Facebook Shops, to
allow businesses to create an online store
on Facebook or Instagram. It is integrated
with messaging service WhatsApp as well
as Instagram Direct and Messenger.
Facebook CEO Mark Zuckerberg said the
service was developed due to the impact
of COVID-19 on small businesses – more
than 160 million of which use Facebook
and Instagram. “We are uniquely positioned
to be a champion for small businesses,”
Zuckerberg said.
Trend Setter
Handcrafted in gold-plated sterling
silver, the Pearly Demilune Hoops from
Misho are finished in black and white
enamel with pearls.
Get a clip
4Tiffany & Co. is selling
an 18-carat gold paper clip
on its website. The oversized
piece of stationary – whose
dimensions and weight are
not listed online – is described
as “the perfect whimsical
desk accessory” and retails
for $2,650. It is part of the
Tiffany & Co. Out of Retirement
Collection, which is based
on archival designs from the
New York jeweller.
VOICE OF THE AUSTRALIAN JEWELLERY INDUSTRY
Published by Befindan Media Pty Ltd
Locked Bag 26, South Melbourne, VIC 3205 AUSTRALIA | ABN 66 638 077 648 | Phone: +61 3 9696 7200 | info@jewellermagazine.com
Publisher & Managing Editor Angela Han angela.han@jewellermagazine.com • Assistant Editor Arabella Roden arabella.roden@jewellermagazine.com
Advertising Toli Podolak toli.podolak@jewellermagazine.com • Accounts Paul Blewitt finance@befindanmedia.com • Subscriptions info@jewellermagazine.com
Copyright All material appearing in Jeweller is subject to copyright. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly forbidden without prior written consent of the publisher. Befindan Media Pty Ltd
strives to report accurately and fairly and it is our policy to correct significant errors of fact and misleading statements in the next available issue. All statements made, although based on information
believed to be reliable and accurate at the time, cannot be guaranteed and no fault or liability can be accepted for error or omission. Any comment relating to subjective opinions should be addressed
to the editor. Advertising The publisher reserves the right to omit or alter any advertisement to comply with Australian law and the advertiser agrees to indemnify the publisher for all damages or
liabilities arising from the published material.

COVID-19 Update
80%
increase in online
shopping in the eight
weeks to 15 May, reported
by Australia Post
27 September
Scheduled expiry date
for the JobKeeper wage
subsidy scheme
58%
Proportion of Australians who expect
to decrease their usual spending on
jewellery in the next few weeks
* COVID-19 Australia Consumer Pulse Survey
8–11 May, McKinsey & Company
In June 2020, retail turnover
in clothing, footwear and
personal accessories was
half that of April 2019
* Australian Bureau of Statistics, Retail Trade
Australia Preliminary Apr 2020
DR PHILIP LOWE
GOVERNOR, RESERVE
BANK OF AUSTRALIA
“This points to a critical issue
for us here in Australia: that is,
restoring people’s confidence
on two fronts. The first is the
confidence that we can go about
our lives and remain healthy.
And the second is the confidence
that we will have jobs and
incomes and the economy will
grow strongly again.”
PAUL ZAHRA
CEO, AUSTRALIAN
RETAILERS ASSOCIATION
“Looking ahead, as we commence
our recovery, we feel there
is reason to feel cautiously
optimistic. We are encouraged
by the obvious enthusiasm
from Australians to return to
physical stores – as reflected in
the crowds of shoppers in stores
around the country over recent
weekend trading. However, our
retail recovery will be slow
and will track alongside our
economic recovery.”
DIANA MOUSINA
SENIOR ECONOMIST,
AMP CAPTICAL
“China is 2-3 months ahead of us
and their experience could tell us
something. [Their] retail sales
have picked up but still not back
to pre-coronavirus levels, as
consumers remain cautious
about resuming normal activities.”
66%
of Australians are satisfied
with government support
and economic policies
during the pandemic *
* Taking the Pulse of the Nation 11-15 May Survey,
Melbourne Institute
$80 million
allocated by Federal,
State and Territory
Governments to fund
infection control short
courses for customerfacing
workers, including
the retail sector
62%
of people are
not confident in
crowded locations
due to COVID-19
* Service Integrity Research &
Mystery Shopping, Nationwide
COVID-19 Retail Survey, June 2020
Rapaport
GIA
GemFind
The presentations
will feature leading
industry figures
and cover a variety
of topics, including
‘How COVID-19
Will Transform the
Jewelry Store’.
4Diamond industry
publication Rapaport is
conducting a series of free
weekly webinars beginning
Tuesday 26 May and concluding
on Tuesday 16 June.
Entitled ‘The Recovery Webinar
Series – The Lessons We
Must Learn’, the sessions will
provide “actionable insights
and a practical understanding
of the post-pandemic
economy,” a statement from
Rapaport said.
GIA Knowledge
Sessions
webinars are free
and open to the
public, though
pre-registration is
required to ensure
participation.
4The Gemological Institute
of America (GIA) continues to
conduct its GIA Knowledge
Sessions webinars on a wide
variety of gemmological
topics, presented by
distinguished academics.
Upcoming sessions include
techniques and challenges of
pearl identification, diamond
exploration and mining,
and the advanced analytical
equipment used in GIA
laboratories.
The upcoming
webinar will be
hosted by Anthony
Arechiga, vicepresident
sales
and marketing at
GemFind Digital
Solutions.
4GemFind Digital
Solutions, a US-based
business specialising
in digital marketing,
website development and
e-commerce for the jewellery
industry, will host its next
webinar ‘How to Build A
Jewelry Store Website that
Generates Leads’ at 2pm on
Tuesday 9 June (US Eastern
Standard Time).
Previous webinars are also
available to replay online.
10 | June 2020

Let’s Talk
It’s always important to talk, but right now – in the middle
of a worldwide economic crisis – it’s more important than
ever to talk and work together.
As we emerge from COVID-19 we want to ensure Duraflex Group
is listening and adapting to your needs as a true business partner.
Duraflex Group is here to support you during this recovery
period, and to help you succeed in 2020 and beyond. We are
open to discussing anything you need to assist your business
during this challenging time.
Phil Edwards
MANAGING DIRECTOR, DGA
We are here to listen and provide support for your business.
Duraflex Group is here to help you succeed.
For more details please call (02) 9417 0177 and talk to your Sales Executive to discuss.

Bestsellers
1
2
3
4
JUNE
Monthly
Showcase
Jeweller’s compiled snapshot
of bestselling pieces from
leading suppliers.
5
6 7
8
1 COEUR DE LION | Timesupply Ever popular, and iconic to the handmade Coeur de Lion range, is the Rainbow Geo Cube collection. Great to add a burst of eye-catching colour to your window
display. 2 STULLER This platinum pendant necklace features an emerald-cut amethyst centre stone, surrounded by diamonds, on a delicate chain. Available in two chain lengths and three
centre stone sizes. 3 IKECHO AUSTRALIA There is nothing more classic than a Japanese Akoya strand necklace. Ikecho Australia strands are available in different pearl sizes and lengths;
pictured is a 45cm strand with 7-7.5mm round pearls. 4 CLUSE | Heart & Grace Cluse presents pared-down elegance with the Triomphe Yellow Gold Bicolour watch. Its elegant silhouette
and shimmering dial make it a classic bestseller. 5 DANIEL BENTLEY These 18-carat yellow gold and diamond earrings from the Wild Iris collection are inspired by the beautiful Australian
flower. 6 THOMAS SABO | Duraflex Group Australia Classic, elegant and understated, the round ear studs from the Sterling Silver Collection are set with dazzling onyx and measure 0.9cm.
7 KL DIAMONDS Pink and white diamonds are the star in the beautifully handcrafted Argyle Pink Sand Pendant, which features 100 per cent Australian Argyle diamonds set in 9-carat white
gold. 8 PETER W BECK There is no wedding ring more classic than the Half Round. Available in a variety of widths and metals.

News
Michael Hill reopens 125 stores; closes some permanently to focus on digital
sharp focus amid the COVID-19 crisis. Solomon
Lew’s Premier Investments – Australia’s largest
retail tenant, operating 900 stores – declined to pay
rent for six weeks while its stores were closed to
contain the spread of the virus.
It has since negotiated to only pay a gross
percentage of store-based sales, in arrears rather
than in advance, until trading returns to precoronavirus
levels.
Michael Hill International has begun a phased reopening of its Australian and New Zealand stores.
With social distancing restrictions gradually
lifting in Australia and New Zealand, Michael Hill
International has begun reopening stores – but
several “underperforming” locations will be
permanently closed.
The company temporarily shut down its 301 stores
in Australia, New Zealand and Canada in March as
the COVID-19 pandemic spread.
On 16 May, 100 Australian stores and 25 New
Zealand stores returned to trade while adhering
to new safety protocols. Canadian stores will
recommence trading from late May, subject to
government restrictions and directives.
While the reopenings are a positive sign for the
business and its 2,500 employees, a statement
from Michael Hill International confirmed that
five Australian stores, three New Zealand stores
and one Canadian store will remain closed. “The
company still anticipates an ongoing impact on
revenue and profitability due to the uncertainty of
the economic landscape.
”Further store closures are likely
across all markets, based on store
performance and the outcome of
landlord negotiations”
– Michael Hill International statement
“Accordingly, we have been negotiating with all
our landlords to reach reasonable commercial
arrangements that reflect the reality of the
consumer marketplace and trading conditions,”
the statement explained.
It added, “Further store closures are likely across
all markets, based on store performance and the
outcome of landlord negotiations.”
Indeed, retail landlord negotiations have come into
Mark McInnes, CEO Premier Investments, told The
Age, “Some landlords understand that we’re in
the middle of a global health crisis that we haven’t
seen since the Spanish Flu. They’re understanding
and they’re realistic. But there are other landlords
with their heads in the sand, telling their investors
nothing has changed and trying to hold up historical
valuations built on pre-COVID-19 trading patterns
which just no longer exist.”
He added, “[Store] networks shrinking is really up
to the landlords. There’s no reason to shut a store,
the only reason we shut stores is because the rent
makes that store unprofitable.”
During the temporary shutdown period, Michael Hill
International reported a “significant boost” in sales
through its ecommerce platforms, with its previous
digital sales record – set during the Christmas 2019
trading period – broken during the three weeks to
14 May.
The company attributed the results to a number
of new features and initiatives, including ‘virtual
appointments’, a video content hub, a mini store
launched on the WeChat app, shoppable Instagram
posts, and a ‘proactive’ chat feature introduced on
its websites.
CONTINUED ON PAGE 17
Second man charged in
$3.9 million Melbourne
Gold Company robbery
A second suspect has been charged by police in
the armed robbery of gold dealer Melbourne Gold
Company (MBC), which took place on 27 April.
A Nine News report identified the man as Daniel
Ede, 37, an employee of MBC who claimed to have
been held at gunpoint by Karl Kachami, 48, as he
stole gold bullion, jewellery and cash from a safe at
the business’ Collins Street office.
A significant proportion of the stolen goods and
cash, as well as a loaded handgun and stolen
numberplates, were later found by police at a rural
address in the town of Dollar in the Gippsland region.
Ede was arrested at his home in the
suburb of Donvale in Melbourne’s east
on Tuesday 12 May, according to a
statement from Victoria Police.
Sazz Nasimi, a legal representative for MBC,
previously told The Age that security was usually
tight at the office and that “protocols were not
followed” during the course of the robbery.
Ede was arrested at his home in the suburb of
Donvale in Melbourne’s east on Tuesday 12 May,
according to a statement from Victoria Police.
He was subsequently charged with aggravated
burglary, theft, perjury and firearms offences,
and appeared in Melbourne Magistrates’ Court
later that day.
Both Ede and Kachami have been remanded in
custody until they face court again in July.
Armed Crime Squad detectives have appealed for
information and released CCTV footage of a white
Holden Commodore ute. They allege the vehicle was
driven to the address were the stolen goods were
found, shortly after the robbery.
14 | June 2020

Positive results for new diamond trading platform
The World Federation of Diamond Bourses purchased the Get Diamonds platform in April.
Get Diamonds, the World Federation of Diamond
Bourses (WFDB)’s trading platform, has registered
more than 3,400 suppliers and 26,000 buyers – the
majority of which are retailers – in its first six weeks
of operation.
According to a statement from the WFDB, the
platform currently has more than 1.2 million
diamonds listed for sale, with a market value
of $US5.6 billion.
”The pandemic has necessitated a
change. With the launch by the WFDB
of Get Diamonds as an international
platform, we are offering the industry
a transparent, convenient way to
continue to trade worldwide”
– Yoram Dvash, World Federation of Diamond Bourses
The platform was initially developed by the Israel
Diamond Exchange (IDE) and purchased by the
WFDB in April, shortly after a mass exodus of
diamond dealers from the RapNet trading platform,
which is owned by US company Rapaport.
While users pay a small fee to list goods on Get
Diamonds, the platform is non-profit and the WFDB
intends to invest user fees into promoting the
diamond trade internationally.
Yoram Dvash, acting president WFDB and president
IDE, said, “The COVID-19 crisis has almost
completely halted international travel and major
industry events have been cancelled.
Diamantaires have traditionally based their business
on visiting clients and attending international trade
shows, but the pandemic has necessitated a change.
“With the launch by the WFDB of Get Diamonds
as an international platform, we are offering the
industry a transparent, convenient way to continue
to trade worldwide. It is truly ‘By the industry, for
the industry.’”
To meet international demand, Get Diamonds is
currently available in English, Gujarati, Mandarin,
Hebrew, and Russian, and will soon be translated
into Arabic.
The platform has also been endorsed by leaders of
CIBJO, the Hong Kong Diamond Federation, and the
Antwerp World Diamond Center.
Michael Hill reopens 125 stores
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 14.
Daniel Bracken, CEO Michael Hill International, said,
“The surge in our digital sales signals a notable shift
in consumer behaviour in the jewellery category.
“We have been quick to respond and harness this
opportunity, with the implementation of a number
of digital initiatives to continue to attract new
customers and maintain the momentum.
“I’m very proud of the agility of our team to roll out so
many digital initiatives in such a short period
of time.”
He added, “The next six months and beyond will
continue to be challenging, however, we are wellplaced
in each market to emerge as a strong and
more relevant jewellery brand.”
In April, the company implemented a new ‘lean’
operating model including reductions to executive
salaries, a review of corporate structure and support
staffing, deferral or cancellation of store expenditure,
and returning or repurposing inventory.

News
In Brief
Diamond industry organisation to
change name, launch new campaign
Meghan still has
the royal touch
4 A ruby, diamond and gold pendant
worn by Meghan, Duchess of Sussex in an
Instagram clip has generated £100,000 in
sales for UK jeweller Sophie Lis. Demand
was so high that Lis was able to donate 10
per cent of proceeds to the Wild At Heart
charity. The pendant retails for £280 and
features engraved lines from the French
poem The Eternal Song.
Christie’s to auction
rare diamond online
4Auction house Christie’s has
announced it will offer a 28.86-carat
VVS1 D-colour diamond, set in a ring,
at its upcoming Jewels Online event.
It is estimated to sell for $US1–2 million,
making it the highest value lot
Christie’s has ever offered online.
It is also the largest ever D-colour
diamond auctioned online.
Five GIA laboratories
reopened
4The Gemological Institute of
America (GIA) has confirmed five
of its laboratories reopened in May
– Johannesburg, Tokyo, Antwerp,
Gaborone, and Carlsbad in California
– following temporary closures due to
the COVID-19 pandemic. Its offices in
New York, Mumbai, and Surat remained
closed at the time of publication.
Bulgari heiress passes
away aged 93
4Anna Bulgari Calissoni, heiress of
luxury jewellery, watch, and accessory
brand Bulgari, has passed away
at the age of 93. Calissoni was the
granddaughter of silversmith Sotirios
Voulgaris, who founded Bulgari as a
small jewellery store in Rome in 1884.
The chain expanded internationally in
the 1970s and was acquired by luxury
conglomerate LVMH in 2011.
The Diamond Producers Association launched the ‘Real is Rare’ campaign in October 2019; it will be
abandoned in favour of a new marketing concept and strategy from 1 June 2020.
The Diamond Producers Association
(DPA), which promotes natural diamonds
internationally and is funded by seven mining
companies including De Beers and Alrosa,
has announced a complete rebranding and a
new marketing premise.
The association will be renamed and a suite
of new consumer and trade websites, as well
as new social media campaigns, are set to be
launched from 1 June in the US and Europe,
and 1 July in Asia.
”It’s our objective to be the
number-one destination globally
for consumers coming into
websites looking for information,
inspiration and education around
the world of natural diamonds”
– David Kellie, Diamond Producers Association
The DPA’s previous marketing slogan,
‘Real is rare, real is a diamond’ and its
website www.realisadiamond.com, will
be abandoned.
Announcing the changes during a webinar
last week, David Kellie, CEO DPA, said,
“Everything that you’re more familiar with
around the DPA is going to be relaunched
and rebranded. It’s our objective to be
the number-one destination globally for
consumers coming into websites looking
for information, inspiration and education
around the world of natural diamonds.”
He added that the new campaigns would
target younger consumers and “midincome”
jewellery customers, explaining,
“The Cartiers and Bulgaris of this world do
a wonderful job at the very high end [but] the
audience we’re speaking to is much more of
a mid-tier audience.
“They want luxury, but they don’t want to
be patronised because they can’t afford
high luxury.”
Rapaport News reports that the campaigns
will focus on supporting independent
jewellers and those located in shopping
centres, who cater to these consumers.
Notably, Kellie emphasised that the new
campaigns would not focus on disparaging
the lab-grown diamond sector.
“Everything that you’re more
familiar with around the DPA
is going to be relaunched and
rebranded. It’s our objective to
be the number-one destination
globally for consumers coming
into websites looking for
information, inspiration and
education around the world of
natural diamonds”
Kellie was previously head of US marketing
for Watches of Switzerland and corporate
senior vice-president – global marketing and
advertising at fashion house Ralph Lauren.
He was appointed CEO of the DPA in January,
replacing Jean-Marc Lieberherr who had led
the organisation for four years.
18 | June 2020

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SUPPORT SERVICES FOR
INDEPENDENT JEWELLERS
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Created by members, for members.
SHOWCASE
JEWELLERS
WE’RE HERE FOR YOU
Showcase Jewellers was established in 1981 by a group
of independent Jewellers who came together to
improve their buying power in the industry.
Today, Showcase Jewellers is a powerhouse of resources
essential for the independent jewellery retailer, especially in
the area of technology.
Our members have so many resources at their fingertips to
support the running of their business:
• Training
• Marketing
• Online solutions
• Human resources
• Central billing
• Financial planning
• Exclusive in-house
brands
• Conferences
• In-house loose diamond
inventory, both mined
and lab grown.
• Stock ranging
• Extensive supplier
base at both local and
international level
including the latest
fashion brands.
Alongside these resources, you have the support of an
experienced and engaged head office team, as well as
your fellow members. The Showcase Jewellers Group
provides a community and network in which your business
is supported and will positively thrive. We are enormously
proud of the of our community and hope to welcome
you into our family soon.
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Swiss watch event confirmed for August
following Baselworld cancellation
my
dreams
vitality
bravery
Geneva Watch Days featuring 10 watch manufacturers will take place on 26-29 August.
Following the cancellation of
Baselworld and Watches &
Wonders Geneva, organisers have
confirmed that Geneva Watch Days
will proceed on 26–29 August,
making it the only multi-brand
Swiss watch event currently
scheduled for 2020.
The independent event was
announced in March and intended
to be held in April; however, the
worsening COVID-19 pandemic
forced its participating brands –
Bulgari, Breitling, Ulysse Nardin,
De Bethune, Gerald Genta,
Girard-Perregaux, H. Moser & Cie,
Urwerk and MB&F – to postpone
it to August.
”Grouping the entire Swiss
watch industry in a single
location, Geneva, is a major
and unique opportunity to
rekindle the flame of the
watchmaking sector that
has been slowed down in
the last weeks”
–Jean-Christophe Babin, Bulgari
With the infection rate now under
control in Switzerland, and given
the support of local authorities
in Geneva, the event has been
officially confirmed and a website,
www.gva-watch-days.com,
launched.
Instead of a centralised
exhibition, Geneva Watch Days
will see product showcases take
place in hotels, boutiques, and
the watchmaking facilities of
participating brands – which now
also include Maurice Lacroix,
HYT and Louis Moinet – to create
a “decentralised, agile, collegial,
convivial and inexpensive” event.
The ‘reception and information
desk’ will be located at the Four
Seasons Hotel, and, according to
the website, welcome cocktails,
dinners, and a ‘GMT party’ are all
scheduled to take place – subject to
health restrictions.
Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO
Bulgari, said, “The decentralised
format of this unique watch brands
gathering will allow us to be safe.
Also, we have put together strict
hygiene rules for all participants
and visitors.
“No risks will be taken. Grouping
the entire Swiss watch industry in a
single location, Geneva, is a major
and unique opportunity to rekindle
the flame of the watchmaking
sector that has been slowed down
in the last weeks.”
COVID-19 has indeed had a severe
impact on the Swiss watch industry,
with exports falling 81.3 per cent in
April, according to the Federation of
the Swiss Watch Industry (FH).
At retail, the Sell-Out Index – which
is published by Swiss watch and
jewellery consultancy firm The
Mercury Project – found that in
April Swiss watch sales fell 89
per cent in the US, 74 per cent in
Hong Kong, and 12.1 per cent in
mainland China, which are the
industry’s three largest markets.
direction
Offer:
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good
luck
my
family
As we continue to face uncertain times, we want to reach out
with wishes of love, hope and strength and remind you that Stow
Lockets remains committed to supporting our valued retailers.
Stow Lockets can be carefully stylised, creating a sentimental
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One which will be cherished forever.
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stowlockets | #preciousstories | stowlockets.com

10 Years Ago
Time Machine: May 2010
A snapshot of the industry events making headlines this time 10 years ago in Jeweller.
Historic Headlines
4 Hefty jump in tanzanite price
4 China buys up Belgian
4 Michael Hill’s Australian stores flying
4 Zale’s topsy-turvy fortunes continue
4 Trade fair wars update
Ebay wins counterfeit case
STILL RELEVANT 10 YEARS ON
Blokes and the Bling Thing:
Watches, cufflinks and wedding
bands remain men’s jewellery
mainstays, but contemporary men
are also embracing branded
adornments to complement a wellcrafted
fashion identity.
READ ALL HEADLINES IN FULL ON
JEWELLERMAGAZINE.COM
In a blow to jewellers in the fight against
counterfeitng, a US appeals court has ruled that
internet auctioneer Ebay was not responsible for
“knock-off” Tiffany & Co. product sold by users on
its website.
Tiffany & Co. accused Ebay of trademark
infringement and dilution; the auctioneer defended
the claims by stating that it was merely a hosting
service, and that any trademark infringement lay
with individual users breaking the rules of conduct.
In an official statement shortly after the ruling,
Tiffany & Co. CEO Michael Kowalski said,“Ebay
knew that counterfeit merchandise was being
sold on its site, and Ebay took no effective steps
to stop it. Ebay deliberately misled consumers for
profit, and unfortunately, the court has justified its
actions. The consumer is the real loser today.”
Tiffany & Co, which has had an ongoing battle
with Ebay since 2004, said it would consider
another appeal to the US Supreme Court.
Retailers meet Pandora founder
A delegation of members from the Nationwide
Jewellers buying group recently visited
Pandora’s Bangkok factories for a view of the
brand’s manufacturing processes.
Pandora marketing manager Jeff Burnes said
that it was the second retailer trip of its kind, the
first being when members of Showcase Jewellers
visited the factories in 2009.
“The primary benefit of a visit like this is for us
toshowcase the quality of our products and also
the fact that they are made of genuine material,
Burnes said. “A lot of retailers know Pandora as
the brand but they don’t know the work that goes
itno bringing the product to market.”
May 2010
ON THE COVER Riley Burnett
Editors’ Desk
4Tough Love: “The same people who
tell everyone else they should support
Australian manufacturers often do
not do so themselves. They want one
rule for them and another rule for
everybody else.
The next time you hear one bleat and
moan about Australian-made product,
follow them to their car. I’ll bet London
to a brick that it’s imported.”
Soapbox
4A Shopping Love Affair:
“Considering how much shopping
we do, it’s a shame our customer
service trails behind the service level
of other countries.
Sadly, the managers of many
Australian stores have allowed
themselves and their staff to
become lazy, ignoring the customer
in the process... Customer service
is not just about ‘servicing the
customer’, it’s about creating an
overall experience.”
– Gina Kougias, director Georgini
Australian red diamond
goes unsold
The first-ever Australian red diamond to be
offered for sale at auction has been passed in
after failing to reach even the low end of its
estimated selling price.
The rare 0.82-carat purplish-red Argyle
diamond – mounted in a platinum ring and
claw-set between two blue diamonds – was
offered at auction by Sotheby’s Australia in
Sydney in mid-April, with buyers baulking at
the $700,000–$1 million price estimate.
The record price for jewellery auctioned
in Australia is $456,000 for a 5.34-carat,
unmounted, brilliant cut diamond in 2007.
Exhibitor banned from
trade fairs
Melbourne-based diamond dealer A Weiner &
Company has been banned from exhibting at
this year’s International Jewellery Fair Sydney
(IJF) after hosting an “exclusive showing” at a
neighbouring hotel during the JAA’s Brisbane
trade fair in March.
Expertise Events managing director Gary Fitz-
Roy said, “Weiner & Company had advised us
that they would not exhibit at the Brisbane fair
this year because they could not trade on a
Saturday due to religious reasons and beacause
they could not justify the cost.”
Weiner staff will be denied access to any future
Expertise Events fairs and the organiser has
also toughened its fair entry requirements.
22 | June 2020

What You
Need When
You Need It
For 50 years, we have worked
to provide fast service and
enduring support to jewellers
across the world.
As you open your doors once
again, know that Stuller is
here to help — with services,
custom orders, and in-stock
essentials you need.
Stuller.com
+3493-754-7774

INSIDE
My Store
Sheila Fleet Jewellery
PRINCES SQUARE, GLASGOW, UK with Sheila Fleet, owner and jewellery designer • SPACE COMPLETED 4 April 2019
4Who is the target market?
I don’t deliberately target any particular market
but instead design and make jewellery for everyday
people who share a love of all things natural
and meaningful.
My work is bought around the world for
special occasions like weddings, birthdays
and anniversaries.
When I had the opportunity to open my own shop
in Princes Square, Glasgow, it was a fairly plain,
rectangular shop.
I wanted to transform the space from its existing
“[We sought to] tell the
story of the island through
the amazing interior of the
shop, the displays and the
jewellery itself, which is
all inspired by the sea, sky,
landscape and history that
surrounds us in Orkney.”
–Sheila Fleet
look and replace it with something special.
As it was a blank canvas it was a perfect
opportunity for me to work with my merchandiser
and interior designer, Marion Yorston, to create
something truly original to house my extensive
jewellery collection.
We sought to take a little piece of the Scottish
island of Orkney – where all our jewellery is
designed and made – to Glasgow and tell the story
of the island through the amazing interior of the
shop, the displays and the jewellery itself, which is
all inspired by the sea, sky, landscape and history
that surrounds us in Orkney.
24 | June 2020

4Which features encourage sales?
I knew that Glasgow folk like and embrace new
things and are very proud of all things designed and
made in Scotland.
Very often they make purchases to be sent to
relatives who live overseas in countries like
Australia. Each piece of Sheila Fleet jewellery
comes with an information card explaining its origin.
After many years of designing jewellery, I am
particularly proud of the fact that I can now offer
almost anything in my range of rings and jewellery
to be made to order in Scottish gold.
The shop features a very special Scottish
gold wall, which is an additional draw for our
Glasgow customers.
How wonderful to be able to say ‘Mined, designed
and made in Scotland’ on our shop wall!
4What is the store design’s ‘wow factor’?
We hope that the store as a whole has the ‘wow’
factor. From Northern Lights painted on the ceiling,
to the flowing shapes of the sea around the walls.
Plus, the wonderful seaweed sculptures, made
by Ratho Byres Forge, give an extra Orkney ‘wow’
factor in the middle of Glasgow.
June 2020 | 25

Ready
Get
Polish your gemstone
knowledge online
From lapis lazuli and coloured diamonds to
synthetic moissanite and zebra rock, brush up
on your gemstone knowledge in the downtime.
The GAA has over 14 years of gemmology
articles freely available to read online
on Jewellermagazine.com.
Learn About Gemstones with
the GAA on Jewellermagazine.com
ADELAIDE BRISBANE HOBART MELBOURNE PERTH SYDNEY
Passionately educating the industry, gem enthusiasts
and consumers about gemstones
learn@gem.org.au | 1300 436 338 | www.gem.org.au

REVIEW
Gems
Tourmaline: Indicolite, Verdelite & Paraíba
While the red hues of rubellite maintain a
steady appreciation, the interest and value of
blue and green tourmaline was reignited with
the discovery of ‘Paraíba’ tourmaline.
Tourmalines showing unusually striking
“neon” colours of blue, green-blue, green
and violet first appeared in the jewellery
trade in 1989, when a single deposit was
unearthed near the Brazilian village of
Sao Jose de Batalha in north-central
Paraíba State.
The gems came to be known as ‘Paraíba
tourmalines’. Such tourmalines are rare,
and exhibit a vivid blue and startling glow
incomparable to any other gem.
Although uncommon in sizes over
2 carats, these majestic gemstones
are always in high demand, attracting
extraordinary prices not seen with any
other tourmaline variety.
Interestingly, the trace element responsible
for these exciting colours is copper.
In some cases, the concentration is so high
that small inclusions of pure native copper
can be found.
While copper is a contributing colouring
agent in many other minerals such as
turquoise and malachite, it had not been
known to colour tourmaline until the
discovery of Paraíba tourmaline.
Typically, iron and chromium induce
the blue and green in other coloured
tourmaline varieties.
Mined by hand in the copper-rich
mountains of Mozambique and Nigeria
are ‘Paraíba-type’ tourmalines.
Almost identical in chemistry and colour
saturation to their Brazilian counterparts,
these gems emerged into the market in
the early 2000s with large stones, some
over 5 carats.
However, some argue the quality and
richness of colour of the authentic Brazilian
stones are incomparable.
Blue and green tourmaline
In contrast to Paraíba tourmaline, the
other cool-hued varieties are more readily
available and at less extravagant prices.
These gems flaunt trade names such as
‘indicolite’, the name given to a range of
blue tourmalines, and ‘verdelite’, the name
given to a range of green tourmalines.
Both named varieties are often tinged
with blue, green or violet offering a broad
spectrum of colours in varying saturations.
Blue tourmalines range from pale icy blue
to deep and dark saturated navy blues.
Stones that exhibit a dominant blue hue
generally attract a higher value.
Paraíba
Named after the
Brazilian state where it
was first discovered.
Colour: ‘Neon’ blue
and blue-green
Found in: Brazil,
Mozambique, Nigeria
Indicolite
From the Latin
indicum, meaning
indigo.
Colour: Deep blue
Found in: Brazil, USA,
throughout Africa,
Afghanistan, Pakistan
Verdelite
From the Latin viridis,
meaning green.
Colour: Green
Found in: Brazil,
Namibia, Nigeria,
Mozambique,
Pakistan, Afghanistan
Some stones are labelled indicolite even
when the green predominates, so buyers
should value a stone based on its colour
rather than its trade name.
Tourmaline’s other varying greens offer a
pleasing alternative to the yellowy grass
green of peridot and the deep, rich green of
emerald, the other industry ‘heavyweights’.
These include pastel hues, blue-green ‘teal’
varieties and a rare vivid green referred to
as ‘chrome dravite’ – coloured by vanadium,
chromium and sometimes both.
Green tourmalines are commonly dark
olive gemstones and not overly attractive,
absorbing light so intensely they can appear
almost black from some directions.
With the lighter tone viewable through
the prism of a crystal, cutters typically
orientate these stones with the table
parallel to the prism face, offering a paler
stone but showing a less attractive brown to
yellowy green.
With such an extraordinary discovery like
Paraíba tourmaline in our lifetime, one
wonders what else lies beneath the earth
waiting to inspire the gem world and
spark another love affair with a colourful
gemstone.
June 2020 | 27

FEATURE
Refining Stock
LIQUID GOLD:
REFINING &
COVID-19
Booming precious metal prices,
coupled with lower jewellery
spending, increased demand
for refining services in the
first quarter of 2020, writes
ARABELLA RODEN.
28 | June 2020

No part of the jewellery industry
has been immune to the impact
of the COVID-19 pandemic, and
the refining sector is no exception. During
times of economic uncertainty, conventional
wisdom dictates that precious metal prices
rise; this is attributed to increased demand
from investors, who flock to ‘safe haven’
assets which historically hold their value.
This trend has held true during the current global
health crisis. “Metal prices had already been trending
positively pre-COVID-19. The pandemic has lead to
‘binge-buying’ of investment bullion which has, in
turn, affected metal prices for the jewellery industry,”
says Chris Botha, operations manager Pallion.
Peter Beck, managing director of Adelaide-based
company Peter W Beck, which refines gold, silver,
platinum and palladium, notes, “We have observed
that precious metal prices at this point in time are
strong. However, we are not sure if this is directly
related to the COVID-19 pandemic or the general
uncertainty of the world’s economic position [due to
other factors].”
One of those factors may be the ongoing trade
tensions between the US and China.
“Precious metals have always filled that [safe-haven]
role,” says Richard Hayes, CEO The Perth Mint, which
is owned by the Government of Western Australia
and refines the majority of gold mined onshore, in
addition to gold and silver scrap.
At the same time, restrictions on retail trading,
rising unemployment, and plummeting consumer
confidence have combined to flatten discretionary
spending on luxury items, depressing jewellery
demand.
The combination of higher prices for metals and
lower demand for finished jewellery makes metal
refining an attractive option for jewellers.
Darren Sher, director Chemgold, says, “While the
impact of COVID-19 has been devastating for us all,
the one positive aspect for the jewellery industry
is that precious metal stock can be refined, and
jewellers can then get the fine metal back, receive
RECENT STATS
Precious Metal
Trends
$1,700
gold price per
ounce in US Dollars,
exceeded for the
first time in seven
years in April 2020
Source: World Gold Council
39%
first-quarter decline
in global demand for
gold jewellery
Source: World Gold Council
45%
first-quarter
decline in
Chinese platinum
jewellery
manufacturing
Source: World Platinum
Investment Council
16%
silver price
increase in
US Dollars,
September 2018
– February 2020
Source: The Perth Mint
payments, or pay their accounts.”
He adds, “With the major increase in the gold price
in the last few years, in some cases, there may be
minimal loss on the original cost of the metal they
purchased years ago.”
The potential is not limited to gold, however – it also
applies to other major refining metals, including
silver, platinum, and palladium.
Golden opportunity
The gold price reflects myriad factors beyond mere
supply and demand, as it is frequently used as a
financial “hedge” against currency fluctuations,
inflation, and interest rate cuts, as well as
geopolitical instability.
Notably, the gold price has been rising for nearly a
decade, and in April the metal exceeded $US1,700
per ounce. Some analysts predict it will rise further
throughout 2020 – potentially surpassing its tenyear
highs, which it reached in 2011.
Hayes explains that the price of gold has also been
“turbo-charged” in Australian Dollar terms, due to
the exchange rate with the US Dollar.
“While the impact of COVID-19 has
been devastating for us all, the one
positive aspect for the jewellery industry
is that precious metal stock can be
refined, and jewellers can then get the
fine metal back, receive payments, or
pay their accounts”
Darren Sher, Chemgold
At the same time, demand for physical gold has
been constrained by the pandemic.
“The global gold market has been turned on its
head by the novel coronavirus [COVID-19], with
demand in China and India collapsing due to
lockdowns while in the West investors rushed to
buy bullion as a safe asset to weather a period of
financial turmoil,” noted a recent Reuters report.
Indeed, the World Gold Council’s Gold Demand
Trends Q1 2020 report, published 30 April, revealed
that global gold jewellery demand had fallen to
June 2020 | 29

REFINING FEATURE | Liquid Gold
a 10-year low, and tumbled 39 per
cent compared with the same period
in 2019.
“Almost without exception, jewellery
markets across the globe recorded
year-over-year losses as the impact
of the coronavirus compounded the
effect of high, and steeply rising, gold
prices,” the report explained.
“Almost without exception,
jewellery markets across the
globe recorded year-overyear
losses as the impact of
the coronavirus compounded
the effect of high, and steeply
rising, gold prices”
– World Gold Council, Gold Demand Trends
Q1 2020 report
During the same period, platinum
jewellery demand fell 26 per cent,
according to The World Platinum
Investment Council (WPIC)’s most
recent Platinum Quarterly report.
China’s platinum jewellery
manufacturing alone had declined
45 per cent compared with the same
period in 2019.
Meanwhile, silver jewellery fabrication
is predicted to decrease by 7 per
cent in 2020 – its most significant
contraction in four years.
Yet Hayes points out that despite
reduced demand from the jewellery
sector, the silver price has mirrored
gold’s upward trajectory.
“Silver has very much followed gold,
but in the last couple of weeks silver
prices have strengthened more
strongly – they have outpaced the gold
price increases,” he says.
Adam Van Sambeek, treasury manager
at Morris & Watson in Auckland, notes
that alongside increased demand from
investors, “supply constraints brought
on by trade and production restrictions
have also pushed gold and silver prices
higher”.
These factors – ‘safe-haven’ appeal
and reduced supply – assisted gold,
silver, platinum and palladium prices
to a robust recovery from an initial
the coronavirus demand shock, which
saw prices plunge in March as the
pandemic peaked in the US.
In particular, palladium – a key agent
in creating white gold, aside from
nickel – fell 43 per cent from its
February peak of $US2,754, driven by a
dramatic decrease in demand from the
Chinese automotive industry.
However, by 31 May, it had recovered
to $US2,011.
Indeed, palladium has been the best
performing commodity for the past two
years, according to Forbes, with prices
increasing by more than 85 per cent
between August 2018 and March 2019.
The pandemic’s impact on platinum
is less dramatic, and prices have
also stabilised. The WPIC report,
published 18 May, noted, “Due to
dynamics peculiar to platinum and
unrelated to the pandemic, the overall
negative effects [of COVID-19] are far
less than might be expected.”
The report predicts that demand and
supply are likely to remain balanced
throughout 2020, with both dropping to
five-year lows.
The lower volumes are largely
attributed to COVID-19 closures and
restrictions in South Africa, the largest
producer of the metal; at the time of
publication, mines were only permitted
QUICK NUMBERS
Notable
Trends
20%
increase in
palladium price
per ounce, 18
March – 30 May
2020
247,000
predicted global
platinum surplus
in ounces
for 2020
Source: World Platinum
Investment Council
50%
capacity of South
African gold,
platinum and
palladium mines
under COVID-19
restrictions
7%
decrease in
silver jewellery
fabrication
throughout 2020
Source: The Silver
Institute
to operate at 50 per cent capacity. South
Africa is also also a key producer of gold and,
notably, palladium, alongside Russia.
Russian palladium mines have been largely
unaffected by the pandemic.
The world’s largest palladium producer,
Nornickel, has not changed its 2020
guidance, with operations chief Sergey
Dyachenko saying, “We expect saleable
metal production volumes to recover during
the rest of this year.”
Refined strategy
With precious metal prices remaining high
and jewellery demand subdued, jewellers
have an opportunity to create liquidity
through refining.
“This period of strong precious
metal pricing and difficult trading
is an opportunity for jewellers
to manage any precious metal
stock, in either finished or
unfinished form, through refining...
It is possible that precious metal
value alone will return more
than the original purchase price
of the product”
Peter Beck, Peter W Beck
“In terms of normal working stock,
having stuff just sitting around – especially
if you’re paying lease costs on it – is
relatively expensive.
“So having it refined and turning it into
cash, so that you can recycle that cash into
additional manufacturing stock, would tend
to make a lot of sense at this stage,” says
Hayes.
At Chemgold, Sher observed
that when COVID-19 restrictions came into
30 | June 2020

Peter W Beck has been passionately committed to the
jewellery industry for 45 years.
Please be assured that we are still here and we will continue to provide
you with the world class products and services that you rely on.
We stand beside you through this tough time and beyond.
OUR TEAM IS HERE TO SUPPORT YOU:
Toll Free 1800 888 585 | Email customerservice@pwbeck.com.au
14 Duncan Court, Ottoway Park, SA, 5013 Australia
Toll Free 1800 888 585 | Email customerservice@pwbeck.com.au | Web www.pwbeck.com.au

REFINING FEATURE | Liquid Gold
effect, “The demand
for our refining services increased
substantially. Jewellery retailers and
manufacturers sent in large
amounts of scrap and lemel to
ensure they could have extra
funds if needed.
“We also found an increase in the
number of sweeps received. With
restrictions easing, we have found
the demand is back to its normal
level,” he adds.
At Pallion, Botha says, “Our refinery
facilities refine next to half of
Australia’s precious metals output
and have continued to work round the
clock to meet marketplace demand
since the pandemic. We have seen
record-high refining jobs coming
through [from] the jewellery industry.
“Many jewellers during these trying
times have been conducting spring
cleans and sending their lemel
scraps for refining to assist them to
weather the storm. This was also
compounded by the upcoming end of
the financial year.”
Meanwhile, Van Sambeek says,
“Temporary [store] closures as a
result of COVID-19 gave our clients
an opportunity to do some long
overdue house cleaning.
“The high gold price, in conjunction
with economic uncertainty, has
seen an increase in refining,
with many clearing old or slowmoving
stock, surrendered for
cash or metal.”
Beck has also noticed a “definite
increase” in demand for precious
metal refining in recent months.
“We believe this is mainly to act as
a source of cash flow for both retail
and manufacturing jewellers in these
difficult times,” he explains.
“This period of strong precious
metal pricing and difficult trading
is an opportunity for jewellers to
manage any precious metal stock,
in either finished or unfinished form,
through refining.”
Beck recommends jewellers begin
by refining old stock that has been in
store for more than four to five years.
“Because of the current strong
precious metal prices, it is possible
that precious metal value alone
will return more than the original
purchase price of the product,”
he adds.
Meanwhile, Sher says jewellers
should refine “fairly regularly” as fees
are low in proportion to the payments
received for precious metals.
“Due to the high gold and
palladium prices, high-carat
and white metals containing
platinum and palladium are
the best to refine first”
Adam Van Sambeek,
Morris & Watson
“The advice is to, where possible,
keep all your metals separate in
these categories: silver, yellow gold,
white gold and platinum,” he adds.
“This can make refining charges
more economical as two-metal
refining (gold/silver) is less expensive
than four-metal (gold/silver/
platinum/palladium) and
platinum-only.
We provide guidance on how to
separate metals to ensure fees are
SUMM A RY
Key Points
Precious metal
prices have
increased
Economic
uncertainty
has pushed
investors towards
‘safe havens’
Jewellery
demand has
declined
Falling consumer
confidence
and retail
restrictions due
to COVID-19 have
combined to reduce
jewellery sales
Refining can
financially
benefit jewellers
In the short-term,
refining can assist
in maintaining
liquidity
Stock
management
is critical
Post-crisis, refining
ensures jewellers
have fresh stock
and resources
as low as possible.”
Van Sambeek advises, “Due to the
high gold and palladium prices, highcarat
and white metals containing
platinum and palladium are the best
to refine first.”
“But as most metal prices are up, any
refining will help release funds quickly
during this time,” he adds.
And when choosing a refiner during
the uncertainty of COVID-19, Hayes
recommends taking a careful approach,
pointing to several US refiners who have
declared bankruptcy in recent years,
leaving their customers’ metal in the
general creditors’ pool.
“Avoid taking unwanted credit risks –
especially if there are financial liability
issues,” he advises.
Botha adds, “There are very few true
‘refiners’ in Australia – many who claim to
be refiners are merely aggregators. Make
sure you send your refining job to an entity
that actually refines; otherwise all you are
doing is paying a middleman. We are the
only independent London Bullion Market
Association (LBMA) and Shanghai Gold
Exchange (SGE)-accredited refinery in
Australia and you can take a virtual tour of
our refining facilities on YouTube.”
Indeed, stock management is a critical
component of retail even in periods
of growth, but the importance of
generating cash flow by refining –
where appropriate – is vitally important
during the current crisis.
As jewellers begin to reopen their doors
and consumer spending on discretionary
items increases throughout the second
half of 2020, a solid refining strategy
strengthens a jewellery business’ position
– and gives it a better chance to survive
and thrive.
32 | June 2020

Love isn’t cancelled,
it’s stronger than ever.
Our new ‘Momentum’ partnership provides
the necessary tools to help steer our jewellers
through this crisis with grace and gusto.
We stand together, and hold our community
close to our hearts.
The time is now… we choose love!
Discover the difference today.
Sound like we are made for you?
That’s because we are…
Josh Zarb - CEO
0448 416 070
josh@jewellerscollective.com
jewellerscollective.com
#independentjewellerscollective

FEATURE
Trade Fair Exclusive
THE CURRENT
STATE of
AFFAIRS
As Australia begins to overcome the
COVID-19 health pandemic all eyes are set
on the International Jewellery & Watch Fair
still scheduled for September. It’s shaping
up as more important than usual given the
international economic crisis, so what’s in
store for retailers and suppliers?
34 | June 2020

QUICK GL A NCE
Key Points
The COVID-19 pandemic has severely
impacted the worldwide events industry
resulting in many international jewellery
fairs being postponed and/or canceled. Locally,
decisions by the Federal Government and various
state governments had an immediate impact on
the Australian events industry.
“Commercially, we have been devastated,” says Gary
Fitz-Roy, managing director Expertise Events, which in
addition to the International Jewellery & Watch Fair (IJWF),
manages more than 25 trade and consumer shows each
year.
“We were shut down 10 weeks ago when mass gatherings
of more than 500 people were restricted. The events
industry has been decimated – but as the old saying goes,
what doesn’t kill you makes you stronger. I’m working
under the three P’s: patience, persistence, and be proud of
what you do,” Fitz-Roy told Jeweller.
“This isn’t the time to feel sorry for ourselves. We’ve got a
choice: you either change the outlook and get on with it, or
you have to accept it.”
Fitz-Roy explained that unlike many other businesses, the
events industry has no products to sell, no trading online
and no other income – and while jewellery suppliers and
retailers are doing it extremely tough, they have the ability
to sell online and through other channels even though it
may be at a lower volume.
That aside, this year’s IJWF remains scheduled for 12-14
September, and, for the first time, will run concurrently
with the Spring Gift & Lifestyle fair at the International
Convention Centre (ICC) in Darling Harbour, Sydney.
Fitz-Roy says the IJWF represents an opportunity for
‘healing’ within the jewellery industry, which had already
been devastated by the impact of the summer bushfires.
“We made a very conscious decision to keep in regular
The International
Jewellery & Watch
Fair (IJWF) and
Spring Gift &
Lifestyle shows are
still planned to
proceed at the ICC
Sydney on 12-14
September 2020
Expertise Mate
Rebound Care
Assistance package
offers exhibitors up
to $1,000 in savings
through discounts
and credits, as well
as extended
payment terms
IJWF 2020 offers
an opportunity for
the jewellery
industry to heal and
reconnect after the
COVID-19 crisis
New safety
protocols and
procedures,
compliant with all
government
guidelines, will be
in place to protect
exhibitors and
attendees at the
show
contact with our clients, to provide information that could
help them, and maintain a position that we need to be
optimistic, yet realistic,” says Fitz-Roy.
In order to help suppliers and the industry, Expertise
Events has released two documents. The first was Bounce
Back, which set a plan for suppliers to navigate their
way through the early stages of the crisis; and in the last
week, it released a support package called Expertise Mate
Rebound Care Assistance.
It offers a combination of discounts, credits, extended
payment terms and services to assist suppliers exhibiting
at the Sydney trade fair.
“This was about us saying, in
the middle of May, and still
four months before the trade
fair, that we will support our
clients to the end” –Gary Fitz-
Roy, managing director Expertise Events
“We have a mantra: walk in the shoes of your client. We
decided that a package of support would be a good gesture
given that we’re a family business too, just like much of the
jewellery industry – and experiencing the same pain they
are,” Fitz-Roy explained.
Expertise Mate was developed four weeks ago, and was
designed to absorb many costs of exhibiting – for some
companies, the package represents a saving of $1,000.
According to Fitz-Roy, releasing the package early was a
critical priority to both support the jewellery industry and
reflect the family values of Expertise Events.
“Our [company’s] revenue has dropped 50 per cent in the
financial year, and we could have sat back until June or
July, saying, ‘We’ll see.’ But we haven’t,” he said.
“We are still a family business, like so many of our
jewellery wholesalers and distributors. My son is involved
in the business and I want to impart on him that when the
chips are down, you show that you are prepared to support
June 2020 | 35

THE CURRENT STATE OF AFFAIRS | Trade Fair Exclusive
All eyes are set on the upcoming jewellery show in Sydney.
your clients and the industry early on so
they have confidence and optimism.
“This was about us saying, in the
middle of May, and still four months
before the trade fair, that we will
support our clients to the end.”
The package covers “every part” of
exhibiting costs.
“Whether it be insurance, electrical,
modular carpet, and so on, we wanted
to help adjust those margins. We have
agreed to underwrite these margins;
we haven’t gone to any of our suppliers
or contractors and asked for a discount,
as they have been as affected as we
have and we are all in it together. We
will subsidise [the discounts] and help
our clients get through this period.”
Many sales representatives lost jobs
or were stood down while others have
been unable to meet with retailers faceto-face,
so Expertise Events decided
to include marketing in the support
package, with Fitz-Roy emphasising
the importance of customer
communication in the lead-up to
September.
Each exhibitor who has booked by 30
June will receive a $150 credit towards
a Marketing & Promotions package,
and all exhibitors receive access to the
free online exhibitor directory where
they can upload a company profile,
pictures and brochures.
“We have an extensive database and
with the combination of the Gift fair,
we can now leverage an even greater
database and provide even more value
for our clients,” Fitz-Roy adds.
While it’s still early days, Fitz-Roy said
the feedback on the Expertise Mate
package has been positive – and tinged
with surprise.
”I’m working under the three
P’s: patience, persistence, and
be proud of what you do. This
isn’t the time to feel sorry for
ourselves”
“The general comment is that no other
organiser in Australia, or in the world,
has released a support package with
real money involved as well as valueadds.
Talk is cheap – for years we’ve
always been on the front foot and made
our decisions very clear. And our clear
position in this is we need to support
the industry and we’re prepared to do
that early on,” Fitz-Roy said.
Focus on retail
While the support package is
designed to assist suppliers, Fitz-Roy
emphasises a commitment to also
support retailers. The supplier support
is the first stage as it’s an area that he
can control, so he has actioned these
first. He notes that conducting the
two shows – IJWF and Spring Gift &
Retailer
Benefits
An opportunity to
meet with suppliers
face-to-face again
and explore new
opportunities, while
saving time and
money by attending
both IJWF and Spring
Gift & Lifestyle
Interaction with
fellow retailers;
networking and
sharing experiences
Education about
post-COVID strategies
on how to rebound
and reconnect with
consumers
Supplier
Benefits
Expertise Mate
Rebound Care
Assistance package
makes it more costeffective
than ever to
exhibit at the show
Opportunity to meet
with retailers faceto-face
once again,
all in one place, and
foster key buying
relationships
Networking with
fellow suppliers
and buying groups;
building a sense of
unity and connection
within the industry
Lifestyle – at the same time and at the same
venue is particularly important for country
retailers, and reflects their stock mix.
“Last year, we made the decision to change
the date [of the IJWF] to 12-14 September
to co-locate with the Gift fair, and that was
more about the change in buying patterns.
Now, with the benefit of hindsight, that
decision may well be one of the better
decisions we could have made,” Fitz-Roy
said.
“I think that it’s a win-win for everyone,
retailers and suppliers alike. Country
retailers will be big winners and we now have
a really good formula that makes it costeffective
for retailers in tough times, because
running the two shows together gives them
more in terms of total offering.”
Fitz-Roy believes the jewellery retail
environment will adapt and evolve in the
post-COVID period, and the trade show will
reflect that.
“There will be more diversity in retailers and
jewellery stores. Some will go to the top end
[of jewellery] and some will diversify and
introduce other product categories. It could
be fashion accessories – and the reality
is, there’s no reason why the two product
categories can’t run in their own halls and
we are making it easy by having the two
events together.
“However, we have been very clear in saying
that retailer attendance and entry into the
jewellery fair has separate qualifications
36 | June 2020

With the recent announcements of
government restrictions starting to be
rolled back, jewellers now have the
opportunity to get customers back
into the store.
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changes that have taken
place without spending
all their time on the phone.
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THE CURRENT STATE OF AFFAIRS | Trade Fair Exclusive
CLICK TO DOWNLOAD
BOUNCE BACK KIT
CLICK TO DOWNLOAD
EXPERTISE MATE KIT
from the gift fair,” he adds.
With the focus firmly on retailers, Fitz-Roy
says there will be numerous resources
available at the IJWF.
“I’m a realist – I’m not saying that we’re
going to have a huge buying fair because
retailers will all be at different trading
levels, depending on whether they had
online sales or implemented other selling
methods over this period.
“What we’re going to have is a ‘healing’
fair, an event where the industry can
reconnect and even celebrate, where
they can talk about what they learned in
the past few months. We are launching
a Retail Summit, with our educational
program stepped up a gear.”
At the top of the agenda is how retail
businesses can recover from the crisis.
“It’s not just about how we all recover
from COVID-19 from a business
perspective – it’s also how we come out of
it mentally and even physically,” Fitz-Roy
explained. “The Retail Summit will deal
with re-building, rebounding, and reconnecting
with consumers. How do we
get people to start purchasing again?”
Another benefit for retailers is the
Platinum Club – a lounge area designed
to re-engage key buyers. A number of
Platinum Club invitations will be issued
to exhibitors based on their stand size,
so they can then invite their favoured
retailers.
“It’s very encouraging that shopping
centres are now opening up and we’re
hoping by the time we get to September,
there will be some increased purchasing
from consumers and a need to replace
stock, as well as be prepared for
Christmas and the New Year. But equally,
we recognise that there are retailers
that are really important to exhibitors
as far as the relationship goes, and our
Platinum Club is a way of supporting that
relationship,” Fitz-Roy explains.
When asked about further incentives
for retailers to attend the show, such as
potential accommodation discounts, Fitz-
Roy revealed that negotiations are taking
place with third parties – “Everything is on
the table,” he told Jeweller – though it is
currently too early to confirm final details.
Looking ahead
At the time of publication, Fitz-Roy is
confident the two shows will proceed in
September, citing the significant progress
that has been made to curb the spread of
COVID-19 within Australia.
“Two months ago, Prime Minister Scott
Morrison said that everything would be
closed until September – a six-month
shutdown. Within eight weeks the
governments have relieved or relaxed a lot
of the rules, and we’re still four months
away from September, so I’m quietly
confident,” Fitz-Roy says.
”I’m a realist – I’m not saying
that we’re going to have a huge
buying fair. What we’re going to
have is a ‘healing’ fair, an event
where the industry can reconnect
and even celebrate”
He emphasises that some new
protocols will more than likely need to
be implemented to ensure safety at the
show, which will be based on government
guidelines as well as procedures at
overseas shows.
“There will be some changes, but I don’t
think they will be onerous – they will be
changes that everyone will accept and
understand. China has trade shows up
and running already, while Germany has
announced they will be hosting shows in
June, and the US has announced shows
for July, so there are a lot of protocols
SUMM A RY
Program
Highlights
• Retail
Summit
Continuing
the theme of
support and
reconnection, the
IJWF will feature
an extended
educational
program
including a Retail
Summit exploring
the impact of
COVID-19 and
strategies for
business recovery
• Platinum
Club
A special
invitation-only
lounge area will
be available on
the show floor
for selected
retailers, and
will include
a number of
special perks
and benefits
• Wine
O’Clock
An ever-popular
networking
event for
exhibitors,
Wine O’Clock
will return on
one evening
during the
event allowing
suppliers to
unwind and
reconnect
and systems in place. We will look at those
and apply what’s relevant to our market,” he
says. “If we take a common sense approach,
we will hopefully come out of this the better
for it.”
The theme of this year’s fair is ‘Be
Reconnected’, and the official website
has been updated with new information
and graphics to reflect the concept of
reconnection.
Fitz-Roy explains, “The difference this
year is that the fair will serve an important
healing effect, because the jewellery
industry is very tactile – seeing and talking
to people – and it’s personal. It’s personal
for the consumers, and it’s personal
between the wholesaler and the retailer.”
The traditional 5pm social function – ‘Wine
O’Clock’ – will still take place, with Fitz-
Roy noting that the fair may be the first
opportunity for suppliers to interact with
each other as well as retailers.
“The best way for any industry to get through
a crisis is to support and back each other,
and I think for the suppliers getting together
and reconnecting is going to be equally
important because those networks have
also been shut down,” he explains.
“The fair will play a really pivotal role this
year in how we reconnect and how we go
through this healing process to regrow,
because we will grow. We will come out of
this. There will be lessons learned, things
will be a bit different, but we will survive it,”
he adds.
Indeed, the IJWF has always served a critical
business function for the jewellery industry
– yet its other role, as a unifying force amid
both tough times and growth periods, is now
more important than ever.
Visit www.jewelleryfair.com.au for details about
this year’s International Jewellery & Watch Fair.
38 | June 2020

Together
We’re in this together. Worth and Douglas are
here to help, providing the quality, speed, and
service you’ve come to expect from us for over
60 years.
Your account manager will be reaching out to
discuss ways we can support you during these
unusual times.
WORTH & DOUGLAS LTD
(03) 9338 0091 / 1800 006 388
sales@worthdouglas.com.au
worthdouglas.com

BEST OF BUSINESS
Feature
‘ONCE UPON A TIME,
THERE WAS A JEWELLERY BRAND...’
Storytelling exists in all cultures; it is used to convey learning and history, as well as to entertain children
and adults alike. DENYSE DRUMMOND-DUNN discusses the use of storytelling in brand marketing.
Stories were developed down through
the ages as a means of transferring
knowledge, long before books, and now
the web has enabled their storage.
Storytelling has risen in importance in
business over the last decade to become
one of the essential skills required of
CEOs and CMOs. With the introduction of
websites and fan pages, storytelling has
become crucial for brands as well.
Brand stories are perhaps one of the
easiest ways to resonate with customers,
which hopefully then leads to highly
sought but ever-diminishing rewards
of loyalty and advocacy. I say ‘easiest’
with caution since great storytelling is
an art that is often learned but rarely
truly mastered.
Andrew Stanton gave one of the most
popular talks on the topic in February
2012 when he presented his TED Talk The
Clue to a Great Story.
Stanton is a writer and director with
animation giant Pixar, the production
house behind mega hits Toy Story and
WALL-E, both of which sprang from
incredible stories.
I was inspired to apply Stanton’s ‘clues’ to
brand stories. Let’s now review.
Make us care
According to Stanton, a story needs to
start by drawing sympathy from the
audience. In the beginning, the hero
is rejected or badly treated by family,
friends, employers, circumstances
or the world – typical examples here
are Cinderella and the loveable robot
WALL-E.
The plight of these characters
immediately sets the stage for building
feelings of concern in the audience,
especially when treatment is identified as
unfair or outside the control of the hero,
which often makes up the opening scene.
In the case of brands, the emotions
they seek are on the opposite side of
Plutchik’s Wheel of Emotions; these
are emotions of trust, admiration
and/or anticipation.
People spend money on brands because
they believe they will provide pleasure
and/or solve a problem. Our job is to
not only satisfy this need but to go even
In storytelling
there is the
promise of
a journey, a
mystery, or the
chance to solve
a problem... A
brand wants its
customers to
stay and become
loyal, so it too
makes promises
– whether real
or imagined
further by turning that expectation into
surprise and delight – but more on
that later.
Take us with you
In storytelling there is the promise of
a journey, a mystery or the chance to
solve a problem. This is what entices
the reader, listener or viewer to stay and
learn more.
A brand wants its customers to stay and
become loyal so it too makes promises,
whether real or imagined.
When I first started working at Philip
Morris International, there was a rumour
among consumers that one of its brands,
Marlboro, was financing the whitesupremacy
organisation Ku Klux Klan in
the US because Marlboro packaging had
three red rooftops – or Ks – on it.
Management obviously didn’t want this
incorrect association to persist, so one of
the Ks was removed.
However, the desire for mystery in one
consumer was so strong that he soon
found a way to link the brand to hatred
of African-American, Native American
40 | June 2020

Bushfi res, fl oods, and now
we’ve gone viral…
At the Leading Edge Group, we are a family. Our purpose is to help those families in a tough retail environment
make it when the odds are stacked against them and the road is long. Everyone needs a helping hand,
especially when you’ve been though the mill like many families have this year. In our family, you are judged by
what you do, not by what you say. And we do a lot.
We understand that after all the pretty pictures and
promises that go with them, our retail family wants some
very simple and clear outcomes. They want to earn more
for what they do. They want more customers to serve.
They want to reduce costs where it makes sense and build
a sustainable family business. They want to give back to
their community. And when the day is done, they want to
be able to pass on this legacy to someone else at a fair
and reasonable price. Because that’s what families do.
OK, so how do we help our family?
We provide a central credit facility that gives our family
members greater fl exibility and more time to pay. We fi nd
them exclusive products, offers and prices along with benefi ts
that make a difference, like reduced costs in travel, insurance,
fi ttings and fi xtures. We provide unparalleled advice and
service in product knowledge, retail expertise, people
management and fi nance.
Most of all, we provide a caring and personal experience
because you are, after all, family. We’ve been here since
1985 and we’ll be here a long time after this virus has gone.
Join our family.
Claire Packett - Category Manager
P (02) 8732 9531
E packettc@leadingedgegroup.com.au
www.leadingedgegroup.com.au

Be Reconnected
UNITED | CONNECTED | PROUD | RESILIENT
INTERNATIONAL
J E W ELLERY & WATCH FAIR
SEPTEMBER 12 – 14, 2020
ICC Sydney Exhibition Centre, Darling Harbour
jewelleryfair.com.au
Organised by

Best of Business | ONCE UPON A TIME THERE WAS A JEWELLERY BRAND
and Asian-American people. This
particular consumer based his insane
and wildly misguided theory on the
discovery of printed reference dots on the
inside of the pack that were in black, red
and yellow.
He saw it as some kind of skin-colour
code and overlooked the fact that printers
regularly use colour-reference dots
on packaging.
Alas, the theory gained traction and,
unable or unwilling to tamper with
the printing process, there was little
management could do other than deny
it, which appeared to further ‘confirm’
the rumour among fanatics!
Conspiracy theories develop from people’s
desire for mystery and narrative – to
the point where they will develop a story
about a brand even where there is none.
Offer tales to tell
Customers love to tell stories about ‘their’
brands. There are many myths about the
greatest brands around, often starting
from packaging or communications.
Toblerone has the ‘Bear of Berne’ and
the Matterhorn mountain displayed upon
packaging to emphasise its Swiss origin
and the chocolate itself is shaped like
a mountain.
Other brands have embraced values
and communications that have been
so dominant that they have led to the
establishment of customer stereotypes.
Examples include Columbia outdoorwear’s
‘Tough Mother’ campaign, Harley
Davidson’s motorcycle option for middleaged
weekend bikers, and Dove skincare’s
campaign for ‘real’ women.
All these stories confirm and further
support the connection customers have
with these brands.
Be intentional
In stories, heroes often have an inner
motivation that drives them towards their
goals. They will encounter problems
and challenges along the way but their
motivation remains strong.
For a brand, this motivation is known as
brand equity. It is represented by such
factors as a brand’s image, personality,
values and what benefits a customer can
expect from using it.
Brands look to not only identify these
factors but to also ensure they are
represented consistently in everything
they do.
From product to packaging,
communications to sponsorships,
brands reinforce their values constantly
to ensure customers are sufficiently
motivated to purchase.
Let us like you
A story depends on a hero with whom the
audience can empathise; someone worthy
of respect and even love.
This is exactly the same for brands, which
is why problems and crises need to be
handled quickly, fairly and respectfully.
In today’s world of global connection,
everything a brand says or does anywhere
in the world is shared and commented
upon within minutes.
In the past, disappointed customers may
have told 10 friends; today they tell 10
million, thanks to the instantaneous and
omnipresent nature of social media.
In an article entitled ‘What an angry
customer costs’ by Fred Reichheld, it is
said that the cost to companies of haters
or detractors is enormous.
“Successful companies take detractors
seriously,” Reichheld writes. “They get
to the root cause of customers’ anger
by listening to complaints, taking them
seriously and fixing problems that might
be more pervasive.”
Yet it is not merely a question of
preventing the spread of negative
commentary. Rather, as Reichheld
himself says, resolving complaints “is
where true loyalty begins” for many
customers.
Surprise and delight us
Stanton says stories should charm and
TELL YOUR
STORY
Create an
emotional
connection
Brands should
inspire feelings
of anticipation
and excitement
Entice the
consumer
The promise
of a journey,
mystery or
narrative draws
customers
deeper
Reinforce
brand equity
Keep your
narrative and
brand values
consistent
Be the hero
Earn shoppers’
loyalty – and
positive word
of mouth –
by handling
complaints
with empathy
and providing a
personal touch
fascinate the audience. Similarly, brands
should aim for surprise and delight – the
surprise of learning something new about
the product, or company that made it, and
the delight of getting unexpected gifts or
attention from the brand.
This is how limited editions and seasonal
offers first started and, over the years,
brands have gone much further.
In 2010, SpanAir bestowed surprise gifts
to 190 passengers travelling with the
airline on Christmas Eve in a campaign
called ‘Unexpected Luggage’; KLM airline
has given gifts to passengers who tweeted
about their pending departure on a KLM
flight at the airport.
One year, juice company Tropicana
brought a giant inflatable ‘Arctic sun’
to the remote Canadian town of Inuvik,
where residents live without sunlight for
an entire month each winter.
US online shoe and clothing retailer
Zappos, known for its customer service,
upgraded all customer shipping to
express for free. That was in addition to
its standard policy of a one-year returns
guarantee and including handwritten
notes with deliveries.
Kleenex surprised sick people with cold
and flu care packages as part of its Feel
Good campaign, targeting people who
were tweeting about having the flu.
And finally, Google, which is known for
creative and timely illustrations on its
homepage, displays a birthday cake on
the day of people’s birthdays.
The last example actually happened to
me and I have to say I was so excited I
actually tweeted about it. Am I the only
one who was touched by this gesture?
There you have it. Those are Stanton’s
clues to a great story adapted for brands.
Now consider – what stories are told
about your brand?
DENYSE DRUMMOND-DUNN has more
than 30 years’ management experience.
She runs C3Centricity consultancy. Visit:
c3centricity.comm
June 2020 | 43

BEST OF BUSINESS
Selling
Want to shape a sales culture? Read this
The media writes endlessly about the great cultures of the super-retailers like Apple and Amazon, but where do
independent retailers begin when they want to build triumphant cultures? IAN ALTMAN reports.
One of the most common questions
I receive at my keynote addresses and
workshops is how to infuse a business
with a culture of sales for growth.
The top companies seem to just
ooze an atmosphere of enthusiasm
and opportunity.
They attract talented employees and
those employees act as magnets to
attract the best customers. Eventually,
this builds a sales culture for growth
across the organisation.
That’s all fine and dandy for Apple, but
how can independent retailers build a
sales culture?
It’s not like you can order a shipment of
culture from Amazon – or can you?
Amazon owns US online retailer
Zappos, whose sales culture is admired
worldwide – to the point where a
separate company, Zappos Insights,
was founded in 2009 to share its
strategies with other businesses.
Robert Richman, co-creator of Zappos
Insights and author of Culture Blueprint,
believes culture starts with values.
Values do not reside within a division, a
department or a job title; they cut across
the organisation.
Retailers wanting to build a culture for
growth need to recognise that they have
to establish values that apply to everyone
within the organisation.
This means nobody can say, “That’s not
my job.”
That said, where do you, as a small
business, even begin?
Culture comes from within
Don’t try to fix or impose culture – build
it from the foundation up. If you tell your
team, “This is the culture you have to
Top-performing
retailers don’t
strive to be
everything to
everybody...
Define the
problems that
the business
uniquely solves
for customers
implement,” rest assured that it’s going
to fail.
“Don’t just bring in a program. Ask your
team what they think it means to have a
sales culture,” Richman says.
“Your team needs to get their frustrations
off of their chests and contribute their
ideas. If your [sales staff] don’t feel heard,
you are imposing something instead of
letting it come from within. They might
come up with a better idea than what you
originally envisioned.”
Business owners might be able to dictate
a policy or procedure; however, building
culture is a collaborative process.
Define the greatest value
Top-performing retailers don’t strive to be
everything to everybody. Generalists don’t
build a brilliant culture. The businesses
with the best culture might offer
competitive pricing but they definitely
44 | June 2020

offer unquestionable value. Work with
staff to have them define the problems
that the business uniquely solves
for customers.
By sharing where the business adds
value, staff will understand where they
help your customers the most.
You cannot build a culture of sales if
your team does not believe in what you
are selling. Depending on the business,
valuable input will come from a range
of sources.
Obviously frontline salespeople and
store managers who regularly interact
with consumers should have a good
understanding of the impact that the
business has on consumers.
Some of the best ideas may also come
from unexpected sources such as
backroom staff – think outside the box.
Don’t just stop at how you impact
customers. Have an open discussion
about how your business impacts all
your people, especially casual staff.
Top-performing retailers have happy
customers and happy employees.
There is a great debate about which
comes first, the happy employee or the
happy customer, but know that you can’t
succeed in building a culture of sales
without considering how you impact those
inside your own organisation.
Include every department
In larger businesses, executives in
certain departments seek to evade
culture initiatives.
Accounting and human resources (HR)
staff can be instrumental in delivering
culture across an organisation – but
maybe not where you think.
Many businesses see the HR department
or, in the case of a jewellery store, the
owner as driving culture. Instead, the
most important task for small business
owners is to attract the best talent.
CULTURE
KEYS
Unique value
proposition
Define how
your business
uniquely solves
consumers’
problems
Collaborate
with staff
Consult your
employees and
keep
ßthem happy
Attract
great talent
New hires
should enhance
your business’
culture
If the new candidates start at your store
with a sense of culture, then it is easier
to sustain and enhance that culture
over time.
In conclusion, building a culture of sales
does not happen overnight.
One initiative or meeting will not produce
results. You have to engage your team to
identify what culture means to them and
your team needs to bring the ideas and
value from within.
They have to believe in where you add
value for your customers and internally
for your employees.
Retailers who have delivered on this
vision engage talented employees, attract
coveted customers and earn the respect
of their competitors and peers.
IAN ALTMAN is the CEO of Grow My
Revenue and an advisor and speaker on
sales and business development. Visit:
growmyrevenue.com
We are
here to
help fulfil
your ideas
We are here to help you fulfil your ideas. As a
customer-focused Australian business, we aim
to service the needs of the retail and wholesale
jewellery industry by helping to centralise the
development of innovative products and concepts.
For our existing branded products, we offer
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WWW.PFJ.COM.AU

BUSINESS
Management
Now, more than ever, you need your team on board
In the most difficult trading conditions, valuing your employees is critically important.
DAVID BROWN explains how to lead your staff to inspire their loyalty and increase productivity.
Recent experiences have been tough
on everyone. Some of you will have had
to deal with the harsh reality of letting
staff go, with no idea as to whether
demand for your services will return to
previous levels any time soon.
Right now, it is easy to feel estranged
from your staff – but the old saying that
your people are your most important
asset has never been more true.
Rather than being on the opposite side
of the fence from you, they are on the
same side, battling a common enemy
with which we all must deal.
You need your staff and they need you.
Here are the key things your staff will
be looking for from you for the rest of
this year – and beyond.
If you can provide it, you will get the
best of them in return.
Leadership – Moments like this bring
out true courage in adversity. People
will naturally gravitate to those who
show strength and a sense of purpose.
History is littered with examples to
follow, so inspiration should never be
far from your fingertips.
Challenge – I’m sure there is no
shortage of challenges right now! You
will discover a lot about yourself in a
time like this, and a lot about your staff.
During difficult periods, those
employees with true strength and
resilience will stand up and show the
skills that you have been looking for
the most.
Watch for the staff members who rise
to meet each new challenge, rather
than being overwhelmed or giving
up responsibility when things don’t go
to plan.
Appreciation – Remember to thank all
your hardworking staff.
If nothing else, lockdown has taught
us the value of the small things; of
appreciating others and remembering
the little gestures that we can make to
help each other through.
Remembering to show your gratitude
During difficult
periods, those
employee with
true strength
and resilience
will stand up
and show the
skills that you
have been
looking for
the most
for what your team does is invaluable
right now and will help bring out the
best in them.
Empowerment – Now, more than ever,
you don’t need to go it alone.
Members of your team will be
ready to step up and shoulder new
responsibilities as your own workload
increases.
You may find yourself running faster
than ever just to try and keep up but be
willing to pass the baton to those who
are able to help you the most.
Communication – Tell your employees
what’s happening.
They know times are challenging, and
sometimes we fear the unknown far
more than the reality of what could
happen.
Let them know how things truly stand
and don’t feel you have to hold back.
Once they have the information on the
specific problems you are facing, they
can assist in developing solutions.
46 | June 2020

Trust – Trust yourself and your employees.
Communication and integrity naturally
breed trust.
While your staff may not always like what
they hear, they will come to trust you and
what you say if you consistently deliver on
what you promise.
Involvement – Contrary to popular opinion,
most staff members don’t want to do
the bare minimum and switch off at the
first opportunity!
We are all eager to be part of something
bigger than ourselves and your team are
no exception.
Give them that chance by increasing their
responsibilities and you may be delighted
at the outcome.
Patience – When changing a staff
member’s role, not everything will go
as smoothly as you hope, and progress
may not be as quick.
However, if you do give your staff more
responsibility, be patient with them
while they come to grips with their new
tasks and your expectations.
The long-term benefits to your business
will be worth the wait.
Humour – Yes, I’ve included humour
on this list. It may not seem like a
prerequisite to developing a positive
staff relationship, but with so much
seriousness happening at the moment,
a little levity can go a long way.
Humour is important for the wellbeing
of your staff and yourself as well.
Sometimes a joke and a smile can take
the edge off a situation and reduce
tension, helping foster a sense of
co-operation and camaraderie.
LEADING IN
A CRISIS
Be honest
with your
employees and
include them in
problem-solving
Give employees
more
responsibility,
not less
Show your
appreciation
and use humour
to build rapport
Treat each
employee with
patience and
empathy
Empathy – You are suffering hardships and
so are your staff.
Understand that things won’t be easy for
them for the foreseeable future either.
Within reason, be prepared to listen and
support the personal issues they may be
battling as a result of the current crisis.
In conclusion, by focusing on these
10 areas of staff management, you
will harness the power of your team
and thereby make your own business
challenges easier to overcome.
At the same time, you will inspire your
staff’s loyalty and ensure they give you
their best – both now, and when the crisis
has passed.
DAVID BROWN is co-founder and
business mentor of Retail Edge
Consultants. retailedgeconsultants.com

BEST OF BUSINESS
Marketing & PR
How to create stronger customer relationships
Businesses looking to generate repeat sales should start by fulfilling the promises made in marketing materials and,
according to SUE COCKBURN, stand out from the crowd by consistently delivering on product and service.
Savvy business people understand the
role excellent customer service plays
in their success.
They understand that winning
customers and building loyalty doesn’t
happen overnight, and that building
strong customer relationships requires
a consistent and ongoing effort to retain
their customer’s hard won loyalty.
They know that while pricing is
important, loyalty earned by delivering
on promises and taking care of
customers will often win the sale and
keep the customer, even when pricing
is higher.
Retaining customers is a goal of many
marketing strategies as it is one of
the most cost-effective ways to
increase sales.
Savvy business people also understand
how fragile customer relationships
are and how quickly loyalty can be lost
through poor service.
Most customers will bear an occasional
misstep or problem that is handled
quickly and with care; however, they
won’t tolerate neglect, rudeness,
broken promises, unnecessary
bureaucracy and inconsistency,
just to name a few examples.
This is especially true when there are
so many other competitors to visit.
Consistency is key
The importance of consistency in
particular is huge; customers want
to have confidence that retailers will
deliver on their promises every time,
not just when it’s convenient.
In fact, if a store consistently delivers
good products and services, and if staff
mean what they say and say what they
mean, the potential for any organisation
to reach extraordinary heights is real.
Consistency won’t guarantee success
but it will lay the foundation for growth
and it will usually separate a business
from competitors.
Social reputation
Given the prominence of social media,
Companies like
McDonald’s and
Subway weren’t
always giants.
They started out
small and grew
on a foundation
of consistency –
not only in their
food but in their
service offerings
as well
managing a store’s reputation online
and offline is more important today
than it has ever been, and negative
feedback is something businesses
just don’t need.
Once a customer has decided to buy
from a retailer and once they’ve paid
for the product or service, what follows
will set the store apart from the pack.
Consequences of poor customer focus
Companies like McDonald’s and
Subway weren’t always giants.
They started out small and grew on
a foundation of consistency, not only
in their food but in their service
offerings as well.
When consumers choose these
brands over competitors, they usually
do so because each company has
a reputation for consistency in the
products and service they provide.
Unfortunately, great service coupled
with a great product appears to
be rare.
48 | June 2020

It often seems that businesses woo
customers with pleasant service and fast
turnaround in the decision-making stage
but drop the ball once customers sign up
for the service.
A business might promote its “easy-touse
functionality”, but if it’s difficult to
get after sales service or even a response
from the support department then the
supposedly “easy-to-use functionality”
becomes an empty promise.
Retailers need to ask themselves, “Will
customers who choose to shop with us
discover that we under-promised and
over-delivered?”
This is the type of experience people
crave and the type they talk about and
share with others, which leads to positive
results for any business.
Of course, customers will share if
businesses don’t do this but the results
will be far less positive.
Here are some strategies for building
consistency in your business:
• Create opportunities for salespeople
and other staff to meet with each other
and share problems and possible
solutions to service-related issues.
This can help break down silos between
departments and build staff relationships
and ownership, all of which impact
customer service.
• Conduct an online survey and invite
customers to give feedback.
• Ensure marketing materials make
promises that staff are able to keep.
Ask staff to provide input and suggest
revisions to the messaging.
• Set up automated responses to
KEEP IT
CONSISTENT
Your marketing
sets consumers’
expectations
To ensure
loyalty, you
must deliver on
your promises
Positive
experiences
generate repeat
sales and turn
customers into
promoters
Staff can offer
insights into
weaknesses in
customer service
incoming client emails to ensure nothing
falls through the cracks.
• Provide clients with a timeframe in
which they can expect a response.
• Monitor customers on social streams
for praise or dissatisfaction and use
this feedback to buoy – or repair – the
business’ reputation.
Those running successful businesses
of any size know that building customer
loyalty isn’t an overnight effort.
It’s an ongoing one that can make the
difference between success and failure,
and consistency in every area plays a
key role.
Sue Cockburn is founder of Growing
Social Biz, a website and social media
services provider for micro and small
businesses. Visit: growingsocialbiz.com
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BEST OF BUSINESS
Logged On
Sharpen your social media marketing strategy
One of the most important marketing tools during COVID-19 has been social media. MANDY EDWARDS explores
how to evaluate the success of social media campaigns through a marketing lens.
There are many jewellers who feel the
internet is the single biggest threat to
retail growth these days.
I’m going to start with a statement with
which many won’t agree: social media
success doesn’t always translate into
dollars and cents. The return on a
company’s social media investment won’t
always be financial.
Those who think they can make
thousands of dollars by using social
media to market their products are
wrong. The chances are very high that
they won’t make anything at all, when
measured in dollars and cents.
The success of any social marketing
venture is determined by that business’
end goal, as detailed in the company’s
marketing strategy.
Examples of end goals might be to
increase brand awareness, build an
online community or generate leads
or sales. The marketing strategy should
define why social media is being used to
achieve these goals.
Additionally, businesses are sorely
lacking in actually measuring their social
media marketing efforts.
Many will post on Instagram or Facebook
and never look back to analyse what
worked and what didn’t, as well as what
they can do better or differently next time.
Measuring social media is different to
measuring return on investment (ROI)
– which almost always relates to money –
on something tangible like an event or a
speaking engagement.
Measuring success in social media
requires looking at many different factors
and bringing them together like pieces
of a puzzle. Some are easy to track while
others are a bit harder.
Mark Schaefer, author of Social Media
Explained, explains why businesses have
to measure their social marketing efforts
and activities.
Schaefer made four points:
• There is an implied value to everything
• Expending effort should be justified
• If you’re not measuring, how do you
know you are making progress?
Measuring
success in social
media requires
looking at many
different factors
and bringing
them together
like pieces of a
puzzle. Some
are easy to track
while others are
a bit harder
• There is no excuse not to measure.
First of all, amen to number three! If
businesses aren’t measuring what they
are doing, how do they know it is working
at all?
As for number four, if they are giving an
excuse as to why they can’t measure what
they’re doing, that’s just a cop out.
Schaefer also points out that not all
ROI success is quantitative; some is
qualitative – there are some elements
that can be measured that don’t have a
dollar value.
Effort benchmarks
Consider the following benchmarks for
common social media activities and ways
in which these can be measured:
• Community growth – did you see an
increase in the number of people in your
online community? Was there a decline?
If so, why?
• Engagement levels – did you provide
quality content that inspired likes,
comments, shares, retweets, Pinterest
Pins? If so, you would measure that a
50 | June 2020

ANALYSING
YOUR EFFORTS
1. Look beyond
dollars and cents
and instead judge
your success
against marketing
strategy end goals
2. Define the
metrics by which
you will measure
success, beyond
a simple sales
increase or
decrease
3. Building
engagement and
brand value will
deliver sales
eventually, but
may not provide
instant results
4. Calculate ROI
based on time
spent on social
media, rather than
monetary spend
5. Use analytics
and split-testing
to measure
your success
and constantly
improve – don’t
‘set and forget’
positive. If not, figure out what didn’t work
and try again.
• Offer redemptions – did you post an offer
to your community, such as a discount
code in an Instagram post? How many
people redeemed it? Did you receive any
leads from it?
• Contest entries – did your contest entries
provide you with any leads or sales? Did
they bring any community growth?
• Clicks – how many people clicked
through your content? It could have
been a picture, a link, an ad, a contest or
something else. Did you see an increase
in your click-through rate over last
month? Make sure to check your Google
Analytics as well on this one.
• Overall sales – how did your overall
sales compare to the amount of time
you spent on social media? Can you
attribute any sales increases or
decreases to your efforts?
• Conversions – did you track any website
conversions from your LinkedIn, Twitter
or Facebook ads? If so, was there an
increase or decrease over the past
month? Again, check Google Analytics.
• Subscribers – did you see any increase
or decrease in your email subscriber
base? Was any of that a result of your
social media marketing efforts?
By calculating more than just dollars and
cents, businesses can analyse how their
social media efforts were successful.
Using social media to market is ultimately
about relationship building and the
creation of trust and loyalty with a fanbase
that wants to connect with your brand.
Sales will come from that, sometimes
sooner and sometimes later.
But remember that social media
marketing requires a purpose in every
action you take.
To give yourself the maximum chance
of success, keep your end goals in
mind always.
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My Bench
Richelle Perks
Stephen Dibb Jewellery, Brisbane QLD
Age 29 • Years in Trade 8 • Training Four-year apprenticeship • First job I started my apprenticeship in 2012 at Goldleaf Enterprises. This was my first job in the
jewellery industry Other Qualifications Diploma in Graphic Design
Spider can be
worn separately
as a brooch
SIGNATURE PIECE
NEPHILA LUCILIA NECKLACE
WINNER – AUSTRALIAN PEARL DESIGN
MASTER & PEOPLE’S CHOICE AWARD, AUSTRALIAN
PEARL JEWELLERY DESIGN MASTERS 2018
This necklace with a detachable spider brooch and green
bottle fly clasp was handmade in 9-carat yellow and white
gold, Australian South Sea Pearls, black diamonds and
Tsavorite garnets. The name comes from the scientific terms
for the Golden Orb Weaver spider and the green bottle fly.
4FAVOURITE GEMSTONE Australian sapphires.
I recently visited the Australian gemfields and it
was so amazing to see where the sapphires
come from.
Peter Brown from Rubyvale Gem Gallery and his
family gave me a wonderful insight into the whole
process, from mine to beautifully cut gemstone,
and I now have an even greater appreciation for
Australian sapphires.
4FAVOURITE METAL Platinum; I just love that
it takes such extreme temperatures to solder
and fuse.
4FAVOURITE TOOL My favourite tools are the
ones that were given to me by special people in
my life, so when I use the tool I always think of
them. They are mostly engraved saying who they
are from.
4BEST NEW TOOL DISCOVERY Lindsay graversharpening
templates. They just make the most
crisp surfaces on gravers.
4BEST PART OF THE JOB I love making Mokume
Gane billets from scratch – seeing the different
patterns that come out is always exciting.
I also love that every day is different, with different
pieces to work on, and we get to see some
amazing pieces of jewellery.
4WORST PART OF THE JOB Repairing pieces of
jewellery that are mass-produced and poorly made
that just fall apart.
4BEST TIP FROM A JEWELLER You are only as
good as the last job you do, so do every job to a
high standard.
4BEST TIP TO A JEWELLER Don’t stop exploring
the many interesting areas of our trade.
4BIGGEST HEALTH CONCERN ON THE BENCH
Breathing in dust and chemicals and keeping
active outside of work, as we sit most of the day.
4LOVE JEWELLERY BECAUSE I love creating
unique pieces and making designs come to life.
Even repairing jewellery can feel so satisfying.
52 | June 2020

OPINION
Soapbox
Jewellers need to embrace new
opportunities in the watch category
Consumer behaviour has changed due to COVID-19, writes CATHERINE CRANER, who advises
watchmakers and jewellers to adapt and take advantage by focusing on watch services.
The COVID-19 pandemic has impacted us
all. Although my business, The Battery Man,
continued operating during the lockdown
period, sales were down approximately
80 per cent in April. Yet – like many other
businesses – sales have begun picking
up since the beginning of May, with many
jewellers telling me about an emerging
trend among their customers.
People are coming in after cleaning out
their cupboards and drawers while being
locked down at home, and finding old and
cherished watches that need to be fixed.
One jeweller said he’s had customers
come in with up to six watches needing to
be fixed. It’s quite lovely really, with some
finding a forgotten family heirloom or
their favourite watch as a kid.
My father used to say that when times
were tough, we would get busier as
people could not afford to buy new
watches; rather, they would choose to
have the battery changed on their existing
watches instead.
been focusing on jewellery repairs
and cleaning.
Consumers can buy anything on the
internet, but when they need a watch
repaired or a battery changed, they
must go to their local jeweller/
watchmaker to ensure the job is
completed to a high standard.
The other option is to go to shoe-andkey
repair kiosks, some of which charge
$30–$35 for a ‘basic’ watch battery
change. Unfortunately, these kiosks
are not specialised in watch repairs, so
customers end up going to a jeweller/
watchmaker anyway to fix the mistakes
made by the key repair staff.
Many of our customers, especially in
country areas, are family businesses
that started out working from the
spare room in their home, just like our
family business. When the business
grew, they moved to a local store in
town and they are still an essential
part of the community.
Another
opportunity
for jewellers
looking to
increase sales,
post-COVID,
is pre-booking
a customer to
have one-onone
browsing
time in the
store. Watch
battery changes
are a great entry
point for this
changes are a great entry point for this
– while the customer is waiting for their
battery change, they can enjoy the oneon-one
service and look around the store.
Some battery changes take 10 minutes,
while many others, especially larger
watches, can take much longer.
When it comes to encouraging customers
to have their watches repaired at a
specialist jeweller, it can be a matter of
“faking it ‘til you make it”.
By that, I mean that I encourage shops
to first try and look the part. When I think
of a watchmaker, I picture a master
craftsman in a little store in Zürich.
In order to look like a watch repair
specialist, I recommend getting a white
lab coat and perhaps wearing a peaked
cap, which fits with the expectations of
potential customers.
And finally, this down time represents a
great opportunity to invest in education.
These days, unfortunately, people have
another alternative: buying low-quality
watches that cost less than a battery
change at their local $2 shop.
Yet, if the last few weeks are any
indication, I would say the trend for
replacing batteries on high-quality older
watches will continue.
This is backed up by the type of battery
that’s been ordered lately. Alongside
the usual 626sw/377, many other types
are being requested which fit into
earlier models.
It’s good business for the watchmaker
and the bottom line, as changing watch
batteries helps pay the rent or the
junior’s wage.
Servicing watches is something jewellers
should focus on during this period of
lower trade, just as many have already
That is another aspect which jewellers
can promote in their marketing strategy
during this time, as consumers are
looking to support businesses that also
support the community.
When it comes to batteries specifically,
one jeweller recently helped stock the
local hospital with batteries for nurses’
watches and hearing aids.
Promoting community ties also helps
to overcome people’s perceptions that
jewellers don’t need trade because they
“have lots of money” – independent
jewellers need to emphasise being a
small family business and turn that
into a strength.
Another opportunity for jewellers looking
to increase sales, post-COVID, is prebooking
a customer to have one-on-one
browsing time in the store. Watch battery
Many jewellers have been repairing
watches for decades and I would
encourage them to consider training for
watchmaker qualifications. TAFE, for
example, offers recognised prior learning,
where practical experience is treated as
course credit. That means study time is
significantly shortened.
I’ve also recently had the opportunity to
apply to the Watch & Clock Association
of Australia, which I would highly
recommend, especially to apprentices and
trainees, to ensure our watch industry
keeps on ticking.
Name: Catherine Craner
Company: The Battery Man
Position: Managing director
Location: Central Coast, NSW
Years in Industry: 26
54 | June 2020

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a custom design or just a single pink diamond, we can make it happen.
Access one of the largest inventories of Argyle Pink Diamonds in Australia
All SGA Argyle pink diamonds are cut & polished by Argyle with Argyle Certificares & Lot Numbers.
Whether you are after a tender stone for investment, a few melee to complete
a custom design or just a single pink diamond, we can make it happen.
TENDER STONES SINGLE STONES MATCHED PAIRS CALIBRATED MELEE LINES
TENDER STONES SINGLE STONES MATCHED PAIRS CALIBRATED MELEE LINES
T: 02 9290 2199 F: 02 9262 1630 E: Pink@samsgroup.com.au W: Samsgroup.com.au
T: 02 9290 2199 F: 02 9262 1630 E: Pink@samsgroup.com.au W: Samsgroup.com.au

Access one of the largest inventories of Argyle Pink Diam
All SGA Argyle pink diamonds are cut & polished by Argyle with Argyl
Whether you are after a tender stone for investment, a few
a custom design or just a single pink diamond, we can m
TENDER STONES SINGLE STONES MATCHED PAIR
Access one of the
largest inventories of
T: 02 9290 2199 F: 02 9262 1630 E: Pink@samsgroup.com.au
Argyle Pink Diamonds
in Australia
All SGA Argyle Pink Diamonds are cut and polished by
Argyle with Argyle Certificares and Lot Numbers.
Whether you are after a tender stone for investment, a
few melee to complete a custom design or just a single
pink diamond, we can make it happen.