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growing with you Three Time Winner of NZCNA Best Magazine | July 2020 | 100% 

Our shrub 

of the month 

Why you need a 

smoke bush 

Gardening 

in glass 

The art of 

making 

terrariums 

Start your 

strawberries 

Priming for sweet 

success this summer 

Pass the 

potato 

A Canterbury family 

keeping one special 

variety growing 

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Stars of the winter stage 

Daphnes, camellias, hellebores & more

For a cheery 

welcome home… 

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40 

100% 

PublisheR 

Charlotte Smulders 

EDITOR 

Kate Preece 

deputy EDITOR 

Shelley Robinson 

contributors 

Andrew Maloy, Diana Noonan, 

Getty Images, Gillian Vine, 

Kristina Jensen, Marilyn Wightman, 

Mark Rayner, Rachel Vogan, 

Rebecca Lees, Shannon Hunt, 

Sue Witteman, Veronica Armstrong, 

Wendy Maddison 

Design 

Klaudia Krupa 

Cover Image 

Smoke bush. 

Photo: Maksims Grigorjevs/Getty Images 

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KiwiGardenerMagazine 

Contents 

Issue 494 | july 2020 

distribution 

Ovato 

PrintING 

Inkwise 

Level One, 359 Lincoln Road 

PO Box 1467, Christchurch 8024 

Copyright reserved. 

Kiwi Gardener is registered (ISSN 2423-0219) 

with the National Library, Wellington, and is a 

registered trademark of Allied Press Ltd. 

Kiwi Gardener is published and owned by 

Star Media, a division of Allied Press Ltd 

(1/359 Lincoln Road, PO Box 1467, Christchurch 

8024). Kiwi Gardener content is subject to 

copyright in its entirety. The contents may not be 

reproduced in any form, either in whole or in 

part, without written permission from the 

publisher. All rights reserved in material accepted 

for publication, unless initially specified 

otherwise. Colours are printed as close as 

technically possible to specs provided. Opinions 

expressed in the magazine are not necessarily 

those of Allied Press Ltd. No responsibility is 

accepted for unsolicited material. 

Previously Weekend Gardener, Kiwi Gardener 

is an independently owned and 

operated magazine. 

Regulars 

8 Editor’s welcome 

10 Social 

Our ongoing conversations and 

wonderful garden achievements. 

12 Your garden planner 

Make notes and prioritise your 

to-do list with essential garden 

tasks and timing based on the 

moon’s movements. 

38 Gardening 101 

How to brighten the winter garden 

with pops of colour. 

92 Garden quiz 

Put your gardening know-how to 

the test, plus find the solutions to 

last month’s puzzler. 

93 Your chance to win 

Something for your fur baby, 

packets of seeds and more! 

Kiwi Gardeners 

16 Organics in the city 

What Levi Brinsdon-Hall and For the 

Love of Bees have achieved in the 

heart of Auckland. 

36 Garden business: Lilyfields 

David and Wendy Millichamp 

continue the 70-year lily legacy. 

48 Organic school 

Rebecca Lees continues her journey 

with teacher Jenny Perano and 

learns about taking cuttings. 

60 Passing down the potato 

A story that started when John 

Lilley popped a potato in his pocket 

in 1863. 

Special Features 

22 The garden arsenal 

Sue Witteman outlines the tools 

every gardener should have. 

40 Tips for terrariums 

How to create a stunning miniature 

garden behind glass. 

74 Don’t panic! 

If you are looking to stick to a 

budget, Diana Noonan has advice 

for some sensible savings. 

78 Entertaining chickens 

Wendy Maddison on creating a funfilled 

poultry playground. 

98 Living off the land 

Diana Noonan argues with a 

misbehaving cyclamen.

LOVE YOUR 

Winter garden 

WHANGAREI: Cnr Water St & Central Ave • AUCKLAND: Cnr Greville Rd and Hugh Green Drive, Albany 

• Cnr Shore & Orakei Roads, Remuera • Cnr Pigeon Mountain & Pakuranga Roads, Pakuranga • HAMILTON: Cnr 

Thomas and Horsham Downs Rd, St James • 60 Lincoln St, Frankton • TAURANGA: Cnr Bethlehem Rd & SH2, 

Bethlehem • 1 Ohauiti Rd, Welcome Bay • ROTORUA: 147-157 Sala St • NEW PLYMOUTH: Cnr Katere and 

Devon Roads, Fitzroy • WELLINGTON: State Highway One, Plimmerton • 69-71 Miramar Ave, Miramar

56 

28 

68 

52 82 

Plants & Flowers 

28 Winter wonders 

The stunning plants making their 

mark right now. 

32 Shady characters 

We look at a range of plants that are 

quite happy to be tucked away out 

of the sun. 

45 Shrub of the month: 

smoke bush 

Add impact with one of the many 

head-turning Cotinus varieties. 

Edibles 

52 Citrus in the greenhouse 

For those battling to produce tasty 

yellow orbs, consider growing them 

under cover. 

56 Setting up for strawberries 

Rachel Vogan shares pointers for 

success for these juicy numbers and 

sets our winter vege tasks. 

62 Making sense of celery 

Journey through the highs and lows 

of this vege’s past, then grow your 

own at home. 

66 Watercress in a bucket 

That’s right, you can grow this creek 

dweller in your garden. 

68 Carrots on the menu 

This family favourite is easily 

transformed into cakes, loaves and 

side dishes with our recipes. 

DIY Projects 

82 Colourful feeders 

Klaudia Krupa provides a project 

that will appease both the kids and 

the birds. 

85 Shelving your pots 

This space-saving project makes it 

easy to show off your potted colour. 

Problem Solving 

88 Plant doctor 

Solutions to Kiwi garden woes. 

90 Things I wish I’d 

known sooner 

Shannon Hunt shares gardening 

wisdom from readers around 

the country. 

Subscribe 

& receive 

This month’s free gift 

is a pair of Omni Red Back 

gardening gloves. 

page 95 

72 Leek galette recipe 

A tasty winter offering that will 

please a crowd.

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Finials & 

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I 

’m so excited. My husband has made me another 

garden to fill. 

It’s just a small space, but it’s a shady one and 

this, surprisingly, is what I’m most happy about. 

Thoughts go immediately to my hostas. 

They battle for supremacy with overabundant 

rengarenga, but could flourish freely in this new 

zone. My husband queries what would happen 

during their yearly disappearing act and I put my 

thinking cap back on. 

Chatham Island forget-me-nots (Myosotidium 

hortensia) would remind him of home, while 

Helleborus would bring me some serious garden 

joy. Every year, breeders are delivering more and 

more stunning winter rose varieties (page 28) 

and I have been a fan of the dark claret H. ‘Ruby 

Daydream’ since it graced our cover in June 2018! 

As you will read, Veronica Armstrong is just 

as buoyed by the prospect of a shady garden 

(p. 32). Her advice on ferns aligns with my love for 

greenery, though I am determined to amp up the 

flower volume too. 

When we transplanted some alders, a most 

welcome hitchhiker emerged later in the piece. 

It was the elegant Solomon’s seal (Polygonatum), 

with its graceful bell-shaped flowers that dangle 

from long arched stems. I’m eager to divide 

this up and spread the love, though again, this 

white-flowered perennial hides its beauty away 

in winter. 

I recently admired the tall green stems of 

my neighbour’s nerines, topped with blooms 

of curled white petals. They were the stars of 

the show this autumn, taking over from where 

their white agapanthus bedfellows left off. This 

combination is clever and makes the most of 

both plants’ best attributes, and it’s this sort of 

garden mastery I am keen to replicate. 

However, I have been told explicitly that I 

cannot plant anything until the paths this garden 

will line are finished. Seeing as I’m still picking 

shingle out of my new vege gardens (because 

I jumped the gun), I am committed to holding 

back. Besides, as Diana Noonan reminds us 

(p. 74), planting on impulse (or in panic) won’t do 

any good. I will keep you posted on the plan! 

There’s no need for winter to put a halt on your 

garden dreams. There’s plenty to keep you busy 

(p. 12), including indoor options to ensure you 

stay warm. 

My windowsills are getting a lot of attention 

as we encourage coriander, poppies and apple 

trees to sprout. (The latter more of an experiment 

for the six-year-old, but having him race home 

to water his ‘apples’ is a reward in itself.) Then, 

there’s the idea of making your own terrariums 

(p. 40), or a colourful bird feeder (p. 82) – a great 

activity for the school holidays. 

Whether it’s getting your tools in order or 

starting your strawberries (p. 56), be grateful to 

have a growing playground at your fingertips. 

Take a moment to acknowledge what is 

happening now – whether it’s the fresh limegreen 

tips of lemonwood or daphne perfuming 

the air, and plan for more of what you love. 

I can’t wait to see you grow. 

Editor 

editor@gardener.kiwi 

facebook.com/kiwigardenermagazine 

8 kiwigardener gardener.kiwi

Something for 

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WINTER 2020 

The gardener’s toolkit 

For everything you need to know about tools 


The 

essentials list 

ISSN 2423-0626 

Tools every 

gardener needs 

is that new 

gadget worth it? 

Which ones will go 

the distance 

DiY 

projects 

Upcycled pallet garden 

+ tool rack 

The tool 

makers 

Kiwis designing broad forks 

+ building our greenhouses 

growing with you Three Time winner of NZCNA Best Magazine | July 2020 | 100% 

Our shrub 

Of the month 


smoke bush 

Gardening 

in Glass 

The art of 

making 

terrariums 


SubScribe to 

your Start favourite 

your 

StrawberrieS 



magazine 

Pass the 

Potato 



and 


Save 

stars of the winter staGe 

daphnes, camellias, hellebores & more 

style.kiwi 03 379 7100 // classicdriver.co.nz 0800 624 295 

rugbynews.co.nz 0800 77 77 10 // gardener.kiwi 0800 77 77 10 

gardener.kiwi 

Allied Press Magazines 

kiwigardener 9

winning letter 

Hitting the spot 

Let me start with a big thank you for such 

a delightful magazine. Your March edition 

was well themed as I drowned in my 

successful superabundance of tomatoes. 

I made my first batches of tomato relish 

and learned how to bottle correctly using a 

boiling water bath. 

During lockdown levels four and three 

your April edition quiz and articles were put 

to good use over daily FaceTime sessions 

to my mum in the UK. So pleased to see 

another quiz in May’s edition. A great 

conversation starter and brain stimulant. 

Mum has an extensive plant knowledge and 

as the years progress my fingers are turning 

greener as I have more time available to 

me. I’m sure I’m not the only one who 

had done more gardening in the last two 

months than the last two years! 

Many thanks from mum and myself, 

weekly video calls have become daily 

during lockdown and it’s been great to 

bond through our shared love of gardening 

and your magazine. 

Jackie Hollywood, Wellington 

social 

Dig deeper 

I wanted to say how much I’ve enjoyed reading your magazine, I’m a fairly new 

subscriber. I find it really useful and informative, there’s always something I learn. 

And I’m a gardener of many years! 

My ‘I wish I’d known sooner’ is the power of a digger. We built on previous 

farmland and hubby kept saying ‘should have bought a digger’. We finally did and 

the difference it’s made to my gardening! Previously I toiled with a spade and 

worked with the contours of the land, making wonky terraces and paths. This new 

garden has been on our (my) lockdown to-do list. I want to put in a lot of flowering 

edibles and, after being inspired by the June issue, I realised I need some roses as 

well. This time it’ll be done properly with a slight mound and a bricked path. 

You might be envious of the digger, but check out that clay soil. 

Sarah Williams, Auckland 

From the garden 

Catherine Hill kindly sent us these beautiful photos from her Wellington garden 

showing off dahlias, Plectranthus and one of the many yellow admiral butterflies 

that have been a common sight this year. 

Write to us 

Have you got a gardening tip or photo you’d like to share with other Kiwi Gardener readers? Drop us a line! 

This issue’s favourite letter has won its writer a $40 NZ Bulbs gift voucher! 

From the comfort of your own home, click your way to gardening happiness at NZ Bulbs. 

Whether you wish to get garlic in the ground, add a patch of paeonies or sweet peas, or simply bag a bunch of lily 

bulbs, there’s no doubt you’ll be waiting eagerly at the letterbox after placing your order. www.nzbulbs.co.nz 

Email: editor@gardener.kiwi (subject: letter to the editor). Post: Letters, Kiwi Gardener, PO Box 1467, Christchurch 8140. 

Online: www.facebook.com/KiwiGardenerMagazine. Please include your full name and postal address. 


Adding a bit of life to the 

garden can be as simple as 

upcycling what you have at 

home. These wee beauties 

(left) were a lockdown 

project made by our editor’s 

children. Turns out, Fiona 

Michels has some great 

creations in her garden too. 

This gorgeous owl (right) 

my husband made for me out 

of an old shovel that sits on 

an old spade. 

Facebook family 

Growing microgreens is a quick way to beef up the greenery on winter plates. 

Kirsty Tough agrees, sharing her tips with the Facebook family. 

We have been loving microgreens in our salad over the last couple of weeks. 

Have been resowing them too. It’s cheap and easy and so yum! We’ve been using 

McGregor’s micogreen mix, which is full of basil, beets, mizuna, rocket and other 

goodies. I have no seed-raising mix so have been growing them like sprouts. 

We’ve been talking about herbs a lot lately, 

sharing tips for how to keep these culinary 

delights growing. Lesley Gambrill passed on 

this advice from gardener Thai Ong: If chives 

are planted under apple and pear trees they 

will deter and hopefully get rid of codling moth. 

You’ll feel 

a box of 

birds 

The monthly 

arrival of delicious, 

nutritious wild bird 

feed will keep you 

and your feathered 

friends happy 

through the 

colder months. 

Subscription packs 

starting from $40! 

Go to shop.topflite.co.nz for 

great cost savings 

when you subscribe 

Our editor’s day was made when a package of seeds arrived from Kiwi 

Gardener contributor Rachel Vogan. We discovered plenty more acts of 

kindness going on of late, including this one described by Awhina Kingi. 

A friend took the time to check my property during level four while I was in 

another area for the lockdown. She literally passed by the house to get shopping 

and so stopped in to water and save my plants from dying, making the month of 

separation from my garden a bit easier knowing it was being checked on. It was 

a huge relief. 

The feijoa muffin recipe we 

pulled from the Kiwi Gardener 

archives was a hit with many, 

including Christine Dew, who 

shared her results. 

I swapped out ginger for bran 

and chia. Very yummy! 

gardener.kiwi 

kiwigardener 11

your garden planner 

Rebecca Lees and Rachel Vogan provide us with the top tasks to complete this month. 

Whether you wish to follow the phases of the moon or are looking to simply prioritise your 

time, this area is designed to help you take note of what you wish to achieve. 

Wednesday 

Thursday 

1 

3 

FRIDAY 

2 

4 

SATURDAY 

If you’re planning on planting fruit trees, the 3rd and 

the 4th are prime planting days. Also, spend the first 

four days of July pruning to encourage plant growth. 

From the 5th till the 12th it’s cultivation mode (and 

time to plant root crops). From the 13th you can take 

a well-earned break, and focus on pest reduction, 

harvesting and pruning to decrease growth. It’s also a 

good time to clear away diseased leaves and give the 

place a mid-winter tidy-up. From the 23rd onwards 

you can sow and transplant if your climate allows, 

and again on the 30th and 31st continue planting 

fruit trees and fruiting plants. Check trees and ensure 

those that need support are still well staked. 

– Rebecca Lees 

Sunday 

Monday 

5 

Full Moon 

4.44PM 

6 

First Quarter: Most prolific 

time for sowing and planting 

above-ground crops. Avoid 

planting root crops 

or pruning. 

Full Moon: Cultivation 

time – not the time to sow 

above-ground crops. Prune, 

lay compost, manure and 

mulch. Favourable time to 

plant root crops. 

TUESDAY 

Wednesday 

7 

8 

Last Quarter: Barren rest 

period. Absolute best time 

to prune. Avoid planting 

and sowing. Good time for 

garden maintenance. 

New Moon: Dig and 

cultivate. When new crescent 

appears, sow, transplant 

and graft above-ground 

crops. Avoid planting root 

crops or pruning. 


Thursday 

FRIDAY 

9 10 

SATURDAY 

Sunday 

Out you go 

With shorter days and colder nights, it is easy to look 

indoors rather than tackle anything outside. However, 

there is still plenty to do. Now is the time to tackle pruning 

and trimming back of trees, shrubs and perennials; tie up 

creepers and climbers; spray paths and driveways to clean 

up moss and lichen; and, in the vegetable garden, add 

layers of compost or rich straw mulch to give the ground 

a boost. From the 13th, though, in accordance with the 

moon calendar, put your feet up and take a well-earned 

break, and instead focus on pest reduction, harvesting and 

pruning to decrease growth. 

11 12 

Monday 

last quarter 

13 14 

11.28AM 

Tuesday 

Wednesday 

Thursday 

15 16 

Friday 

SATURDAY 

IMAGE From top MireXa/Getty Images, Don Mason/Getty Images 

Vegetables 

Plant only the fattest cloves of garlic now, allowing a good 

hand spacing between each plant and burying the bulb 

at least 5cm below the ground. More leafy greens can 

be planted – quick-growing options are mizuna, rocket, 

mustard, kale and pak choi. Check on stored pumpkins, 

making sure that they are dry and protected from the 

weather and rodents. Parsnips can stay in the ground, 

simply harvest as required, using a fork to dig them up. 

Between the 5th and 12th, plant out more root crops, such 

as radish and beetroot. 

17 18 

Sunday 

19 20 

Monday 

gardener.kiwi 

kiwigardener 13

Tuesday 

new moon 

21 22 

5.32AM 

Thursday 

Wednesday 

Friday 

Seek out the seeds 

This month would normally see the arrival of new seed 

catalogues in letterboxes around the country. With the 

mammoth demand on seeds throughout the Covid-19 

lockdown, some printed catalogues might be running a bit 

behind schedule. However, you can still get your fix with 

new season’s crops appearing online already. Keep your eye 

on: www.kingsseeds.co.nz, www.egmontseeds.co.nz and 

www.theseedwarehouse.co.nz 

23 24 

SATURDAY 

25 26 

Sunday 

Fruit trees 

Nothing rivals the flavour of homegrown fruit. New season’s 

fruit trees are hitting the garden centres, making it the 

best time to access the largest range of varieties. If you 

are looking for something special, or if you missed out on 

your ‘Moorpark’ apricots last year, invest in new trees this 

month. The moon calendar suggests planting either on the 

3rd, 4th, 30th or 31st. 

Prune your pip fruit. The aim is to keep the likes of apples, 

pears and quince trees to a manageable size, allow in more 

light and remove any damaged branches. Note: fruit trees 

do not need to be pruned every year. 

Monday 

Tuesday 

27 28 

First quarter 

12.32AM 

Wednesday 

Thursday 

29 

31 

FRIDAY 

30 

Winter clean-up 

Whilst the cold temperatures are good at knocking some 

pest and diseases on the head, it is worthwhile giving key 

plants a winter clean-up spray. Roses are often targeted by 

black spot and rust. Combat these issues, and others, with 

a spray of copper and oil, once this month then again next 

month. Copper-based sprays are not a complete remedy 

for all overwintering issues, but will kill the spores of many 

diseases, scale, and the eggs of aphids and mites. 


key 

main tasks 

Sow & 

transplant 

Not the time 

to sow 

Prune, tidy & 

maintenance 

Rest 

IMAGES Rachel Vogan 

Forget-me-not 

If you are after a love-it-and-leave-it plant, turn to 

the delightful forget-me-not. Seeds can be sown and 

seedlings planted now. This generous wee bedding plant 

starts flowering at this time of year and will continue 

until summer arrives. Myosotis readily self-seeds, 

popping up again year after year. Once the plant has 

worn itself out after flowering, it’s easy to pull it out and 

make room for something else too. Plant in drifts under 

shrubs or trees, as they suit shade as well as sunny spots 

with a reasonable level of moisture. Blue, pink and white 

colours are available. 

Indoor plants 

Turn your gardening focus to the indoor plant members 

of the family. Many indoor plants originate from the 

tropics and therefore prefer temperatures which do 

not get close to freezing. With that in mind, keep 

room temperatures as close to a constant as possible. 

Reducing your watering regime will also help toughen up 

the plant. 

Cultivate, 

lay compost, 

manure 

& mulch 

focus on basics 

Water & liquid 

feed 

Beat pests 

throughout 

the last 

quarter 

Take cuttings 

or graft 

Get prepared 

for the fertile 

time ahead 

focus on plants 

Fruiting plants, 

berries, grains 

& seeds 

Sow & 

transplant 

root crops 

Plant for 

beneficial 

insects & 

wildlife 

Flowering 

trees, shrubs 

& vines 

Trees & shrubs 

Flowering 

plants 

Above-ground 

leafy crops 

(& stalks, e.g. 

celery) – not the 

time to plant 

root crops 

focus on harvest 

Harvest 

above-ground 

leafy crops 

(& stalks, 

e.g. celery & 

rhubarb) 

Harvest & 

deadhead 

flowers 

Harvest root 

crops 

Harvest fruits, 

berries, seeds 

& grains 

PREPARE FOR 

WINTER 

WELLNESS 

Clean up your garden 

pests now before they bunk 

down for Winter! 

MAKE THAT A COMBO 

These two sprays are great mixed together on 

citrus, fruit, vegetables, roses & flowers. 

Yates ® Copper 

Oxychloride 

controls a broad 

range of diseases 

such as blights, 

citrus scab, downy 

mildew and rust. 

PRUNE, 

PAINT 

& PROTECT 

Paint on Yates ® 

PrunceTec ® after pruning 

to seal the cut from 

diseases. The sealant is 

long lasting and stretches 

as the tree grows. 

Yates ® biogro certified 

organic Conqueror 

Spraying Oil works by 

coating pests and their 

eggs with a suffocating 

film. Great for controlling 

scale, mealy bug, aphids 

and mites. 

gardener.kiwi 

Go to yates.co.nz for trusted 

advice via LIVE kiwigardener CHAT 15

green 

amidst 

the grey 

Auckland’s inner-city market garden is not only bursting 

with produce, but with financial sustainability. 

Words & Photos Diana Noonan 

IMAGE Organic Market Garden 


n a little piece of land, in the middle of a 

“Obig, bustling city, there lived a beautiful 

garden overflowing with flowers and bees and 

good things to eat.” 

If this sounds like something from a children’s 

story book, be assured such places do exist. 

And what’s more, they are the promise of things 

to come. 

Enter OMG 

Welcome to the Organic Market Garden (OMG), 

inner-city Auckland’s very own fairy-tale 

come true. 

The 700-square-metre slice of paradise is the 

work of Levi Brinsdon-Hall and For the Love of 

Bees (FTLOB), the umbrella group that underpins 

its creation. A community garden in a former life, 

the sloping piece of land is sandwiched between 

commercial premises at the top of busy Symonds 

Street. It is owned and leased to OMG by City 

Rail Link. 

When City Rail Link approached FTLOB to 

see what could be done to extend the growing 

potential of the site, the group was immediately 

interested. It had already carried out several 

educational gardening projects in the city, but 

had not tackled food systems in a really bold 

way. OMG saw the Symonds Street land as their 

chance to prove fresh food for the city could 

come from within its own environment. 

Now, just 18 months later, the market garden is 

open four days a week and is thriving with growth 

and opportunities. It boasts rat-free composting, 

soil bursting with life and biodiversity, 

educational and internship opportunities, a host 

of volunteers and enough produce to supply 30 

boxes of organically-grown vegetables each week 

to its subscribers. And it pays a living wage to its 

head gardener, Levi. 

Challenges ahead 

When Levi embarked on the OMG project, he 

brought with him five years of home gardening 

experience alongside lessons learned from 

attending a raft of relevant workshops and a 

passion for garden research. But what he may 

have been less prepared for was also being 

the market garden’s accountant, social media 

manager, and volunteer co-ordinator. It was a 

steep learning curve; but not as steep as the 

Above from left The last of the climbing 

beans for the season; Levi at work in 

the garden. 

Opposite The mission to prove fresh 

food could be grown for the city, in the 

city, was accepted. 

gardener.kiwi 

kiwigardener 17

opposite Clockwise from top left Rodentproof 

compost bins; Seedlings will 

spend three weeks to three months 

in the greenhouse before being 

transplanted; The final product 

often ends up in a vege box that 

locals subscribe to receive weekly; 

The garden relies on its greenhouse 

to keep on growing; Tim Bowater 

manages the composting at OMG; The 

garden is visible to the public, which is 

exactly the way Levi likes it. 

challenge yet to come. Once the garden swung 

into commercial production, Levi also became a 

‘salesperson’, one of the hardest roles he’s faced, 

he says. 

“It really sucks not knowing how to sell. I had to 

literally walk into restaurants and cafés and learn 

to be that person who put a dollar value on every 

leaf we could grow. Working in the garden and 

with people, that was the easy part. Selling was 

so much harder.” 

The vege box model 

But Levi did rise to the challenge and while 

the garden initially began selling to a few loyal 

cafés, and even to high-end restaurants, it was 

the development of the Community Supported 

Agriculture (CSA) system that set in motion the 

true commercial potential of the garden. 

“Our own local community now supports the 

garden, subscribing upfront to weekly boxes of 

produce,” explains Levi. 

“Those boxes contain at least 12 different 

varieties of vegetables and herbs, and with the 

exception of 8kg of salad greens, which I take to 

a cafe 3km away, everyone comes in person to 

the garden to collect their veges. And we use no 

single-use packaging.” 

The advantage of selling so locally also means 

customers see the garden that grows their 

food. They meet Levi, the garden’s volunteer 

community and they can even help harvest 

the produce if they want to. If a customer can’t 

collect their box in person, they can designate 

someone to do it for them, or they can choose 

to donate their box of produce to the garden 

volunteers or to someone without the cash to 

buy the fresh food they require. Best of all, the 

box system provides the garden $1200 a week, 

which means the enterprise is now financially 

self-supporting. 

‘We’re a business now’ 

City Rail Link not only paid for OMG’s initial 

funding, but also provides six months of Levi’s 

wage by diverting income generated from 

advertising on the garden’s street frontage. The 

funding helped OMG establish its infrastructure, 

build a greenhouse and buy in compost. But 

now they are selling produce, the project is selfsufficient. 

“That’s encouraging for other start-up funders 

because they can be assured that once they’ve 

helped out with initial costs, that’s all they have 

to do to see their investment amplified and a 

project become self-sustainable,” says Levi. 

‘Regenerative growing’ 

While the garden doesn’t claim to be organiccertified, 

it does follow organic principles and 

extends the concept even further. 

“What we have,” says Levi, “is a regenerative, 

biological market garden. Organic growing 

means your inputs come from an organic source; 

you’re not using synthetic fertiliser, for example. 

“But we do more to follow how nature works 

and to amplify that. We farm in a way that’s 

biologically diverse by including a whole range 

of plants, up to 10 species, in a six-metre row. We 

use high-quality compost and we harvest using 

the best practice. Regenerative gardening is about 

bringing land back to life and developing it in such 

a way that it thrives in an exponential way.” 

Pest & disease management 

The theory behind OMG’s diverse planting 

strategy is, that should a species be hit by a pest 

or disease, potentially non-susceptible plants on 

either side of the affected area will act as a buffer 

to prevent the spread of the damaging condition. 

But Levi goes further in his bid to tackle pests 

and disease. Using a foliar-feed fertiliser from 

Biologix, Levi’s main way of protecting his 

plants is simply to give them more of what they 

naturally crave. Feeding the garden once to twice 

a week means the vegetables can absorb millions 

of microbes and nutrients through their leaves, 

building up their health to the point where they 

can resist almost any invasion. 

Planting regime 

OMG also prefers to transplant most of its plants 

into the garden, with only root crops and some 

salad greens being sown directly into the ground. 

When direct sowing does occur, it is managed 

in such a way that the vegetable becomes a 

succession crop; coming through after the canopy 

crop has been harvested. This method makes the 

most of limited space, enhances soil life and gives 

a faster turnover of produce. This unique way of 

gardening relies heavily on OMG’s greenhouse, 

where seedlings-in-waiting can be growing in 

individual pots for anything from three weeks to 

three months before being transplanted. 

Mixing it up 

The garden now makes its own potting mix using 

worm castings, sieved compost and an organiccertified 

potting mix, which provides a nice 

sandy base for raising seeds. And while most of 

us are concerned that our commercial growing 

mediums are sterile, OMG would rather theirs 

was brimming with life so that there’s no room 

for pathogens to colonise. 

Growing Community 

While many of us treat our gardens as an escape 

from the everyday assaults of the world, OMG’s 

head gardener likes growing community as much 

as food. 

“I see the garden as a place for every living 

thing: insects, animals, plants and people. It’s 

a space that can regenerate the community as 




gardener.kiwi 

kiwigardener 19


Above The dream is to one day 

see urban farms in every suburb, 

supplying each neighbourhood. 

well as the soil by providing a place for people 

to come to. In fact, I never want to garden in 

isolation – we already have too many people 

doing that.” 

In many ways, OMG sees its greatest success 

reflected in the reactions of the people who drop 

by. Young or old, no one has been sceptical of the 

project, says Levi. 

The garden hasn’t been vandalised and 

although there is a gate, it is never locked. 

Everyone, it seems, wants this garden to thrive. 

Dream time 

As with every successful venture, there comes 

a time to dream and plan for the future. OMG 

is aware of the potential of a small parcel of 

land to feed a lot of people. With that in mind, 

Levi dreams of a future where our largest city’s 

fresh produce comes not via emission-belching, 

motorway-clogging vehicles trucking in food, 

but from a series of urban farms dotted around 

every suburb. 

“Our dream,” he says, “is for people to have 

access to healthy food, a cleaner environment, 

and a beautiful place to come get their food.” 

To do that, there is now a need to train up more 

urban regenerative farmers, which is why OMG 

will soon be looking for interns. 

“The garden currently relies too heavily on me,” 

says Levi. “And it’s not acceptable that someone 

should have to first volunteer to the extent I have 

before a garden can generate a living wage.” 

From having worked 50-plus hours a week, Levi 

has now reduced his garden time to a healthy 

four days a week. And while he doesn’t resent 

the work it has taken to establish the inner-city 

market, he knows it’s not the way of the future. 

“After all,” he says philosophically, “I’m on this 

journey so that change can happen.” 

Top tips for OMG copycats 

• Keep your compost piles rat-free 

through a carefully-designed 

structure and predator trap as a 

double precaution. 

• Consider hiring a private composting 

operation to manage that side of 

the business. OMG does this with 

a private company and charges 

residents and businesses $15 a month 

to deposit their food scraps. 

• ‘Borrowed’ land is unlikely to provide 

a sense of security. Look on this 

positively as OMG does. Managed 

the right way, land regeneration 

can happen quickly and a market 

garden can enjoy several seasons of 

production before the issue of land 

tenure rears its head. 

• Use relocatable buildings and 

greenhouses so if your garden does 

have to move home, you can take 

your infrastructure with you. 

• Introduce education as a way to 

encourage others to participate, and 

to repay volunteers for their time. 

Workshops can also be another way 

of generating cash. 

• Make space to welcome in a diverse 

range of volunteers and those 

who simply want to enjoy the 

garden space. 

• If your garden water comes from a 

town supply, you may want to follow 

OMG’s lead by installing a carbon 

filter in order to say ‘no thanks’ 

to chlorine. 


You wait all Year in anticipation… 

and overnight Your crop is gone 

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gardener.kiwi 

with Leeaky kiwigardener Hose. 21 59

Tools no 

gardener should 

be without 

Whether you’re a new gardener or one who needs help downsizing the tool 

shed, what follows will help you decide just what you need. 

Words Sue Witteman 

IMAGE Sue Witteman Opposite left to right SbytovaMN0/Getty Images, cjp/Getty Images 


While our early ancestors did their 

‘gardening’ with various forms of sticks 

and stones, we have moved on considerably 

from those rudimentary times. Now, we have 

a vast array of toolage at our disposal – a 

veritable plethora of devices, both simple and 

not so simple, from which to choose our tool 

arsenal. The choice can be bewildering. Tools 

are a personal choice and what suits you may 

not suit me, but there are some tools that will 

please most of us, and these are the tools that 

have earnt their place in the tool shed. Over 

time I have used many different tools and have 

gathered together a family of tools that I find 

are both durable and useful. 

Tools to dig 

Trowels & hand forks 

The workhorses of the garden, trowels and 

hand forks are used for a range of procedures 

from weeding to planting to levering out 

stubborn plants or rocks from the soil, and, as 

such, need to be of sufficient sturdiness to hold 

fast and not bend at the crucial moment. Avoid 

the cheap and cheerful, and fork (haha) out for 

a quality tool with a stainless-steel blade or 

prongs. This is particularly important when it 

comes to hand forks as I dislike pulling the fork 

out of the soil after some grunty work, just to 

see that the prongs are all facing in different 

directions, the fork now rendered useless. 

Spades 

A well-crafted spade is a thing of joy to use, 

it should make the job easier and reduce the 

strain on your body. To help the blade slice 

easily into the soil and not flex when being 

used, it should, preferably, be made of stainless 

steel. Choose the correct size of spade for your 

own size or strength. I always use a border spade 

as the regular size is too heavy for me. Make sure 

your chosen spade has little metal footrests on 

top of the blade to make it more comfortable to 

push down on – surprisingly, they don’t all have 

this necessary addition. My spade is a Spear & 

Jackson, but I’d also recommend the well-priced 

and robust Kent & Stowe. It not only comes with a 

decent 15-year warranty, but looks nice too! 

Forks 

Garden forks have their own job to do – while 

many digging tasks can be achieved with a spade, 

the fork is the tool to reach for when more care is 

needed with the root ball. Dahlias are an example, 

as to avoid slicing through the tubers, you need 

a fork. Also, when splitting a fibrous root ball or 

needing to turn over compost, two forks back to 

back do the job admirably. Buy a quality stainlesssteel 

fork, with tines that won’t bend when 

pressure is applied. Coming in two sizes, I find the 

smaller size border fork very useful. Once again, I 

use a Spear & Jackson. 

Shovels 

If you need to dig sizeable holes when planting, 

then you will be reaching for a shovel. These come 

in various shapes and sizes, but the one I use is my 

smaller-sized shovel, which is just the right size for 

me. If I am sounding as though I am a weakling, it 

is because when I use a smaller shovel or spade, 

it allows me to work for longer with less fatigue 

and less possible injury. Check that the metal the 

blade is made of is 14 gauge or more, you don’t 

want it to bend in use. Ideally the shank that holds 

the blade securely to the handle should be over 

30cm long as this is where the stress happens. As 

with the spade, look for the little footrests. 

left to right To dig a decent hole, 

you will need a decent shovel; The 

workhorses of the garden. 

gardener.kiwi 

kiwigardener 23

IMAGE Left to right kirisa99/Getty Imags, José Antonio Luque Olmedo/Getty Images Opposite left to right hiphoto40/Getty Images, cjp/Getty Images 

left to right Make sure your chosen pair 

of secateurs fits with the size of your 

hand; The weight of your lopper will 

affect how long you can use it. 

Tools that make the cut 

Secateurs 

There is probably no other tool that gets me 

climbing on to my soapbox quicker than the 

secateur. As it is the tool we use most often, it 

needs to be fit for purpose and robust, not cheap 

and shoddy. Price will usually be an indicator of 

quality, as will German and Japanese brands, 

which are well-designed with good quality steel. 

Buy a pair that fits your hand – I have a small 

hand and would find a large pair difficult to use. 

You want to be able to use your secateurs without 

having to constantly be adjusting your hand 

when using them. I mostly use my Felco and ARS 

secateurs. 

Hedge clippers 

Get yourself a decent pair of hedge clippers – I 

have had my pair of clippers for years and years, 

and they still sharpen up well with that shick-shick 

sound, which means they are going to cut cleanly. 

Buying quality should ensure the blades hold 

true and don’t bend. I also like a bit of heft with 

my hedge clippers. If they are too light, the job is 

made more strenuous. My Freund hedge shears 

have performed well for years. 

Reciprocating saw 

One of my favourite tools is the reciprocating 

saw (aka cordless sabre). I love the freedom that 

this tool has given me – the freedom to do the 

job myself without having to call in extra help. It 

bridges that gap between loppers or handsaw and 

chainsaw. It deals to branches quickly, and, being 

battery powered, it is easy to use. In addition, 

when needing to reach out to cut a branch when 

up a ladder, it can even be used one-handed. I 

use a Toolshed reciprocating saw, which I find is 

perfectly fine. If better quality was wanted, then I 

would buy Makita or Hikoki (formerly Hitachi). 

Loppers 

Another necessity. As with secateurs, the loppers 

you choose must be of sufficient quality to not 

only cut through branches with relative ease, but 

not twist in the process, and ideally last longer 

than you do. Choose a metal or fibreglass handle 

over a wooden one for strength. Don’t necessarily 

get the biggest cutting mouth as bigger means 

heavier, and weight becomes a consideration if 

you are doing either prolonged work, or work 

above your head. Also think about whether you 

really need those telescopic handles – again for 

the weight aspect, and also because the handles 

will open really wide and may be cumbersome to 

use. If you have strong, burly arms that may not be 

an issue for you. For cleaner cuts, choose bypass 

or parrot beak-shaped blades, not the anvil type. 

My Bahco loppers have been with me for years. 

I also have a pair of ARS in reserve, but haven’t 

needed to use them yet. 

Pruning saw 

Carry a pruning saw around with you, ready for 

pruning those unruly rogue branches. These saws 

come in a rigid blade option and a foldable option. 

I prefer to be able to fold up my saw so it will fit 

into my work bucket, but either option is fine. 

Just make sure the blade is clean and dry when 

you fold away the blade. Good for the odd branch 

here and there, but for more concerted work, use 

a reciprocating saw. Once again I rate Bahco, also 

the Silky brand. 


Tools to rake it in 

Two rakes will be needed in your toolkit – one to 

rake the soil and one to rake the leaves. Quality 

isn’t as critical here as it is with tools that have 

moving parts, so just buy the one you like, even 

if this is based simply on colour. They are usually 

cheap, though brands such as Fiskars and Wolf 

Garten do have better quality, more expensive 

leaf rake options. Recently I have been using a 

smaller size of garden rake and have found this 

to be easier to use in the garden than the normal 

size. And then there are hand rakes – brilliant for 

manoeuvring around plants in tight areas and 

especially useful in autumn. 

Tools to weed out 

Knife 

A newish kid in the garden is the weeding knife or 

soil knife – also called hori hori, Nisaku or, more 

cutely, digidigi. This multi-purpose tool, made 

of tempered stainless steel, looks like a large 

dagger with a hefty blade. One side of the blade is 

serrated, useful for sawing through roots and the 

other side is smooth and sharp, like a knife, useful 

for weeding. The knife is robust enough to lever 

things out of the soil without bending and is adept 

at getting out those pesky dandelion and dock 

roots. 

Niwashi 

The handy Niwashi is a Japanese gardening 

tool useful for weeding and making holes when 

transplanting seedlings. Made of a wooden shaft 

and a bent carbon-steel blade, it is the tool of 

choice when I have a whole lot of little weed 

seedlings come up and want to slice them off in 

a hurry. It is easy on the wrist and arm as it cuts 

into the soil as you pull it back towards you. Leftand 

right-handed Niwashis are available as is a 

long-handled version, useful if you have trouble 

bending over. 

Clark cultivator 

Try to get your hands on a Clark Cultivator. It is 

a small weeding tool, beautifully designed to fit 

in with the natural shape of your hand, with a 

comfortable laminated wooden handle attached 

to a bent stainless-steel blade and is great for 

zipping around your plants and getting rid of those 

stubborn weeds. This is a strong tool that will last, 

and even better, it is designed and made in New 

Zealand. 

Tools to protect 

For protection when using your tools, fit yourself 

out with gloves, knee pads and boots. I consider 

this group of ‘soft’ tools to be an integral part of 

your toolkit as they will be used for nearly every 

activity in the garden. 

Gloves 

The ultimate protector, both for weeding, digging 

and clipping, as well as handling potting mix and 

fertilisers. The right glove is more important than 

you may think. Both thickness and durability are 

considerations. For weeding, you need a glove that 

you can feel what your fingertips are doing, and I 

have found the Showa gloves exceptionally good 

for this, as well as being long-lasting. For picking 

up, or tree work, I would again turn to the Showa 

glove range and match the thickness of the glove 

left to right Say goodbye to rogue 

branches with the right pruning saw; 

Every gardener needs two types of 

rakes – one for soil, one for leaves. 

gardener.kiwi 

kiwigardener 25


IMAGE from left Michael Moeller/Getty Images, moodboard/Getty Images 

clockwise from top left With the right 

pair of gloves, there’s nothing you 

can’t handle; Footwear is an important 

consideration too. 

to the job, by choosing a thicker glove from their 

range. For prickly, stingy or sappy jobs, wear a pair 

of heavy rubber or leather full-length gloves. 

Kneepads 

A good, waterproof pair of kneepads makes the 

job of weeding much more pleasant. I get mine 

from a hardware store as I find they are wellmade, 

long-lasting and as comfortable as you 

can expect from something strapped around your 

knees. Buy tradesman kneepads and, for wet or 

winter weeding, get ones that have a protective 

waterproof pad stuck on the outside of the pad. 

Nailers kneepads are the ones I use. 

Footwear 

I still love my Red Band gumboots. There are other 

options that I have tried – pull-on safety or work 

boots, slip-on clog-type shoes and so on, but I 

always come back to my Red Bands. They last 

for ages, and don’t form creases where your foot 

bends when weeding – it’s these creases that let 

the water in. During winter I add a thick felt insole 

and I’m good to go. 

Extra tool considerations 

Sometimes, if a tool is just not quite right – shovel 

handle too long, rake too wide – you can modify it 

to better suit your needs. Do what you need to do 

to make it comfortable to use. 

When a longer reach is needed, use extendable, 

long-handled loppers or saws. I came late to 

the joys of long-handled tools (goodness knows 

why, I am short so you would have thought I’d be 

reaching for any long tool to help). My first longhandled 

tool was a Fiskars lopper, which I bought 

because it was on special, and it has been a joy to 

use – it remains sharp, is light and manoeuvrable 

enough to use up high for long periods of time. It 

has done away with a lot of scary (I get vertigo!) 

ladder time for me. 

A good tool is an investment piece and should 

be looked after – always make a mental note 

where you put your tool down in the garden, 

especially secateurs, but also your trowel, 

knife, hand fork and so on, so you have a place 

to start looking when you realise you have ‘lost’ 

them. Also paint the handles orange, so much 

easier to find than a camouflage brown or green. 

And, if you regularly lose tools and fail to find 

them, then (and I can hardly believe I am going 

to say this...) cheaper tools may be a better 

long-term option for you. It can be dispiriting, 

not to mention costly, to repeatedly lose an 

expensive tool. 

If you have long weeding or gardening 

sessions, buy tools that are ergonomically 

designed. This will enable you to work for longer 

with less wear and tear on your body. 

Arm yourself with a selection of tools 

that will make the job both more enjoyable 

and more effective – your time and energy 

is precious. 

ISSN 2423-0626 

WINTER 2020 


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gardener.kiwi 

kiwigardener 27

IMAGE Arcadia Nursery IMAGE Living Fashion 

Colours of 

winter 

With buds bursting into bloom this 

month, the following flowers are set to 

brighten the winter blues. 

WORDS & Photos RACHEL VOGAN 

IMAGE Anthony Tesselaar Plants 


Perennials that pack a punch 

New: hellebores 

Winter roses are one of the mainstay heroes in the 

garden over the next few months, with flowers 

and buds bursting from ground up. Many of the 

new hybrids have been developed to look good 

all year round in pots and tubs – just avoid placing 

them in intense, baking heat throughout summer. 

Helleborus orientalis hybrids readily set seed, so if 

the conditions are right, expect baby plants to pop 

up in future seasons. 

Little bothers hellebores, other than the odd 

infestation of aphids. Keep an eye out for these on 

fresh growth. 

Helleborus x ericsmithii ‘Marlon’ – dusky rosecoloured 

buds will appear this month and then 

open to large, outward-facing, cream flowers 

that change to green as they age. Deep glossygreen 

leaves provide interest all year round. 

Helleborus ‘Isabella’s Charm’ – blooms of 

rich rose-pink fade out to burgundy. Nice 

upright foliage. 

Helleborus ‘Madame Lemonnier’ – an absolute 

ripper with exceptionally large, outward-facing 

peachy-pink flowers, which age to tones of fuchsia 

pink. Very, very pretty. 

Daphne ‘Perfume Princess’ 

With a perfume that fills a room, this is one plant 

that has its place in many people’s hearts. Daphne 

‘Perfume Princess’ has been on the scene a year 

or two and is an absolute champion, seeming 

more tolerant of heat and sun than its cousins. 

Flowers appear as soon as the temperatures drop 

and keep coming for a number of months. Once 

it finishes flowering, it can handle a light prune to 

maintain a lush green habit for the rest of the year. 

Daphnes prefer an acid-based fertiliser, so feed 

them with citrus or azalea and rhododendron food. 

Osmanthus delavayi ‘Pearly Gates’ 

Here is another hardy shrub that ticks the box for 

having a neat and tidy growth habit, along with 

a flurry of heavily perfumed white flowers in the 

gardener.kiwi 

colder months. Happy planted in the sun or partial 

shade, evergreen trims up into lovely shapes, such 

as round balls, topiaries or plant it as a hedge. 

Euryops pectinatus 

This pretty daisy hails from South Africa and 

boasts masses of bright yellow flowers that cover 

the silvery foliage through winter and spring. 

Hardy and easy to grow, all this plant needs is sun 

and free-draining soil. Forming a mid-sized shrub, 

it’s an ideal option for coastal gardens where the 

soil is often shallow and not very fertile. 

Euryops pectinatus ‘Sunshine’ – a neat member 

of the family, this variety differs as it has larger, 

slightly darker yellow flowers and rich green 

foliage as opposed to silver grey. 

Camellia 

These anchor-tenant shrubs continue to bloom 

through thick and thin. Camellias flourish in a 

moisture-retentive soil, in a position away from 

the intense midday sun. Full shade suits them, 

as does life in containers and tubs. Prune as 

required to reduce the size every few seasons. 

Camellia japonica ‘K. Sawada’ – large, formal 

flowers shine in winter through until mid-spring. 

A perfect plant for those who love pure white 

blooms on plants with strong, tidy form. This 

camellia was named after the world-renowned 

camellia breeder, Kosaku Sawada, a Japanese- 

American commonly known as ‘Mr Camellia’. 

Camellia japonica ‘Takanini’ – an early 

flowering, slightly scented variety that has tight, 

frilly dark-red flowers that open evenly over a 

period of months. It has a neat and tidy habit, 

which makes it ideal for tubs, planters and 

medium-sized hedges. 

Eryngium ‘Lilac Joy’ 

For lovers of cottage-type plants and lavender 

flowers, this wallflower hybrid is awesome for 

winter and spring colour. A mid-sized evergreen 

perennial, it forms an open mound, from which 

stem after stem of flowers appear for up to six 

months. Once the plant has finished flowering, 

Above from left ‘Sunshine’ is a variety 

of Euryops pectinatus that has larger 

flowers and rich green foliage; 

Camellia japonica ‘K. Sawada’ was 

named after a famous camellia 

breeder. 

Opposite clockwise from left Daphne 

‘Perfume Princess’ is a particuarly 

hardy variety of this winter favourite; 

New on the scene is Helleborus 

‘Isabella’s Charm’; New Helleborus x 

ericsmithii ‘Marlon’ has ongoing visual 

appeal; Hardy Osmanthus delavayi 

‘Pearly Gates’ delivers on scent. 

kiwigardener 29

IMAGE Proven Winners 


give the plant a good haircut to encourage it to 

bush up for next season’s flowers. Full sun is best 

for this hardy wall flower, which propagates easily 

from cuttings taken in summer and autumn. 

Verbena bonariensis ‘Meteor Shower’ 

This upright perennial is a mainstay for 

summer and autumn gardens as all it wants 

to do is flower. If nestled into a sheltered 

spot away from frost, it will keep blooming 

through the winter months, too. Last year mine 

flowered all year round in a tub up against the 

wall. The label says trim back after flowering, 

which is a challenge as it does not seem to 

stop flowering. 

Annuals with street appeal 

Stock 

Matthiola are old-fashioned favourites that tick 

the box for those who love something pretty 

that’s great for picking. Many of the varieties 

are fragrant and once the plants start to flower, 

they do so continuously for months if regularly 

deadheaded or picked for the vase. Ensure the 

soil is free-draining, but moist enough to keep 

them blooming. Seedlings or potted colour 

plants are best to look for now, as the seed is 

slow to germinate. Pinch out the tips at planting 

time to encourage a bushy plant that will 

produce more flowers. 

Cineraria 

For those who have a sheltered spot or live 

in regions where frost never hits the ground, 

Cineraria are looking a picture now and will 

continue to do so for months on end. Twotoned 

types will not readily self-seed or become 

weedy. Happy in full sun or partial shade, 

they prefer a smidge of moisture to keep them 

looking top-notch. 

Iceland poppies 

Delicate looking, these tough poppies 

(Papaver nudicaule) just want to please by 

pushing up multiple stems of flowers over 

the next few months until the end of spring. 

Iceland poppies are excellent cut flowers 

lasting for days in a vase, so plant plenty if you 

plan to pick them. They look wonderful planted 

en masse in the garden beds or nestled into 

spots in pots. Deadheading will extend the 

flowering season. Save the seed heads to sow 

for next season. 

Above clockwise from left Eryngium 

‘Lilac Joy’ will appease those after a 

cottage-garden look; Stock is a go-to 

for both the garden and the vase; 

The Iceland poppy is stunning when 

planted en masse; Cineraria are great 

for sheltered spots; Expect flowers, 

flowers and more flowers with 

Verbena bonariensis ‘Meteor Shower’. 

PROTECT YOUR 

Take the guesswork out of treating pests & diseases on your 

precious indoor plants, and keep two key products on hand – 

Yates® Nature’s Way® Organic Citrus, Vegie & Ornamental 

Spray (for common insect pests) and Yates® Nature’s Way® 

Fungus Spray (for common diseases). 

PAMPER BIG LEAVES 

Yates® Leaf Shine Aerosol 

Spray gives hard-surfaced 

leaves a high shine gloss – 

to help protect and beautify 

your indoor plants. 

• This easy to use spray 

won’t interfere with the 

natural growth of your 

plant. 

• Perfect for plants such as: 

Monstera, Rubber Plants, 

Elephants Ear & Fiddle 

Leaf Figs. 

gardener.kiwi 

YOUR GO-TO PEST CONTROL 

Yates® Nature’s Way® Organic 

Citrus, Vegie & Ornamental Spray 

is a unique pyrethrum & plantbased 

oil blend that controls 

common indoor 

plant pests: 

• Aphids (small black, brown, 

green or grey coloured insects) 

• Mealybug (white, cottony or 

waxy insect on the undersides 

of leaves) 

• Scale (flattened red, grey or 

brown scaly bumps) 

FIGHT THE FUNGUS 

Yates® Nature’s Way® 

Fungus Spray is a great 

protective fungicide 

made from natural 

compounds. It controls 

a wide range of diseases 

on indoor plants: 

• Powdery or downy 

Mildew (white powdery 

or grey film over leaves 

and/or stems) 

• Rust (many orange, 

yellow or red 

pustules) 

kiwigardener 31

IMAGE Katie Flenker/Getty Images Opposite clockwise from top left LazingBee/Getty Images, MichelR45/Getty Images, Bob Douglas/Getty Images 

Meet some shady ladies 

Some of the loveliest gardens are woodland ones, so if you have a shady 

area you can grow some beautiful plants. 

WORDS VERONICA ARMSTRONG 

Deep and dry shade can be 

challenging but dappled 

shade, where the sunlight 

filters through branches and 

leaves, provides perfect growing 

conditions for many plants. 

Some are spring or summerflowering, 

producing blooms 

when most light is available, 

before new leaves appear on 

deciduous trees. Foliage plants 

that have variegated leaves 

really light up those shady areas. 

FINE FOLIAGE 

The foliage of hostas rarely 

disappoints and they deserve a 

place in the shady garden. The 

leaves may be large, rounded 

and pleated, like those of 

Hosta seboldiana, or smaller, 

smoother and narrower, like 

‘Lemon and Lime’. 

Available in a variety of colours 

from blue-green to fresh light 

green and gold, many variegated 

shades can be found, too. 

All hostas are deciduous, the 

leaves dying down in autumn to 

reappear in spring. The flowers 

are held well above the foliage 

but play second fiddle to the 

leaves. Hostas need light for best 

foliage colour but the lighter and 

variegated forms prefer shadier 

spots. Their only drawback is 

that snails and slugs love them 

as much as we do, so holey 

leaves are not uncommon. 

NATIVE CHOICES 

Ferns, among the oldest living 

plants on Earth, are superb 

foliage plants for the shade 

garden. Most species like 

humus-rich soil and moisture 

but some such as the native ‘hen 

and chickens’ fern (Asplenium 

bulbiferum), will grow in drier 

shade. Most ferns are tropical 

but we have a number of native 

ferns, including the larger tree 

ferns such as the silver fern 

or ponga (Alsophyla dealbata 

syn. Cyathea dealbata) and 

the black tree fern or mamaku 

(Sphaeropteris medullaris syn. 

Cyathea medullaris.) The lace 

fern (Leptolepia novae-zelandiae) 

has delicate, ferny foliage and is 

a good ground cover, too. 

Another native ground cover 

that looks amazing massed 

under trees is parataniwha 

(Elatostema rugosum). It has 

large, prominently veined leaves 

in bronzy-green and purple, 

giving both texture and colour 

in the shade garden. 


LEAFY COLOUR 

Heucheras, heucharellas and 

tiarellas now come in a huge 

range of colours. Heucheras, 

or coral bells, hail from North 

America and bell-shaped 

flowers offset their heartshaped 

leaves. They like some 

morning sun and well-drained 

soil. Tiarellas, or foamflowers, 

are similar to heucheras 

but prefer more shade and 

warmth. Their flowers are a 

mass of star-shaped plumes 

that bloom over a long period. 

Heucherellas (foamy bells) 

are a cross between heucheras 

and tiarellas, having the 

colourful foliage of the former 

but tolerant of more shade 

and moisture. 

Pulmonaria and Brunnera 

both have silvery toned foliage. 

P. officinalis, or lungwort is 

an herbaceous perennial, with 

oval leaves with silver patches 

and in spring produces pink 

or blue flowers. There is also 

a white form. The cultivar 

‘Raspberry Splash’ has lovely 

deep-pink flowers. It’s a 

spreading ground cover that 

likes rich soil and lots of water. 

B. macrophylla has dainty dark 

green, heart-shaped leaves 

overlaid with a tracing of silvery 

markings. In spring, airy sprays 

of little blue, forget-me-notlike 

flowers appear. Brunnera 

spreads by creeping rhizomes 

and will form a ground cover. 

Nature’s paintbrush has 

certainly been to work on 

the foliage of the colourful 

subtropical coleus (now in 

the genus Plectranthus.) 

Every shade of green and pink 

through to burgundy can be 

found on these, so they certainly 

won’t go unnoticed in the shade 

garden. Easy-care annuals, they 

are better suited to warmer 

gardens and prefer morning sun 

and afternoon shade. Pinch out 

the growing tips to make them 

bushier. They combine well with 

hostas and heucheras. 

FABULOUS FLOWERS 

Shade gardening isn’t just about 

foliage: many shade-lovers have 

beautiful flowers, too. 

One of the loveliest garden 

sights I’ve seen was a swathe 

of the Himalayan blue poppy 

(Meconopsis betonicifolia) 

growing in light shade under 

trees. These perennials like 

a moist, rich soil and are not 

Above clockwise from top left 

Parataniwha (Elatostema rugosum) is 

another native ground cover; Brunnera 

has silvery-toned foliage; The blue 

poppy is a beautiful woodland plant. 

Opposite Hostas are perfect foliage 

plants for the shady garden. 

gardener.kiwi 

kiwigardener 33

Above clockwise from top left 

Epimediums have heart-shaped 

leaves and dainty sprays of flowers; 

You can see how bleeding heart gets 

its name; Hellebores come in a range 

of colours with freckles and blotches 

to add to their charm; Kalmia produce 

bell-shaped flowers, opening from 

spiky little pink buds; Daphne can’t be 

beaten for scent in winter. 

long-lived but just stunning 

when in bloom. 

One can’t go past hydrangeas, 

in all their glory. These 

undemanding shrubs produce 

large heads of white, pink, 

purple or blue flowers in 

summer. They come in a range 

of flower forms, including 

mopheads and lacecaps, 

(Hydrangea macrophylla and 

H. serrata), oak-leafed (H. 

quercifolia), cone-shaped (H. 

paniculata), while the climbing 

form (H. petiolaris) has flattened 

clusters of white flowers. 

Another popular shrub for 

partial shade and rich, moist, 

acidic soil is Pieris japonica, the 

lily of the valley shrub. In spring 

it produces racemes of white or 

pink flowers shaped like little 

bells. The new growth can be 

a lovely red or salmon pink, 

before turning green, which 

adds to its charm. 

Epimediums (Epimedium 

x versicolor) are lovely 

woodlanders, too. Their heartshaped 

leaves are tinged with 

bronze and in spring, dainty 

sprays of lemon, pink and even 

copper flowers dance above 

the foliage. 

No shady garden should 

be without the delightful 

hellebores or winter roses 

(Helleborus hybrids and 

species.) These undemanding 

plants grow well under trees 

and produce their beautiful, shy 

nodding blooms in midwinter 

when not much else is in flower. 

The flowers may be white, dark 

crimson, pink and greenish. 

They can be freckled, spotted 

and splotched, all of which 

adds to their charm. If they are 

happy, they self-seed freely, so 

one is never without them. 

POPULAR SHRUBS 

Rhododendrons and azaleas 

are some of the most popular 

garden shrubs and both do well 

in dappled shade. In their natural 

habitat, these plants grow below 

the forest canopy, in cool, moist, 

humus-rich, acidic soil, enjoying 

semi-shade and filtered sunlight, 

so these are the conditions to 

give them in your shade garden. 

Depending on the variety, they 

flower from late winter until 

Christmas and a bonus is that 

some are scented. 

Daphne likes similar growing 

conditions to rhododendrons. 

Daphne odora and D. bholua are 


IMAGE Clockwise from top left ULADZIMIR ZGURSKI/Getty Images, emranashraf/Getty Images, kongxinzhu/Getty Images, kororokerokero/Getty Images, igaguri_1/Getty Images 

the most familiar known for their 

beautifully scented pink or white 

flowers. Bring a sprig indoors 

to enjoy the lovely perfume. 

D. odora grows to about 1.5m, 

D. bholua can top 3m. 

In the same family as 

rhododendrons is the mountain 

laurel, or calico bush, Kalmia 

latifolia. This large shrub covers 

itself with the most beautiful 

pink and white bell-shaped 

flowers, opening from spiky pink 

buds. Although Kalmia grow in 

shade, they like their heads in 

the sun to flower well, so give 

them these conditions and 

you’ll be rewarded with masses 

of those cute flowers. Its only 

drawback is that all parts of the 

plant are very poisonous. 

ELEGANT SHADE LOVERS 

Solomon’s seal (Polygonatum 

x hybridum) is another musthave 

plant for the shade 

garden. In spring, this elegant 

rhizomatous perennial puts 

up new shoots that develop 

into arching stems with long, 

ribbed leaves. The white, 

scented flowers are delicate 

little bells that hang down on 

the undersides of the leaves 

and are a magnet for bees. The 

foliage turns yellow in autumn 

before the leaves disappear 

underground for winter. These 

woodland plants prefer shade 

but can tolerate some morning 

or late afternoon sun. There is 

also a variegated form. 

Bleeding heart (Lamprocapnos 

spectabilis), formally Dicentra, 

is another elegant shade lover. 

The pink and white flowers really 

do look like bleeding hearts and 

are borne on arching stems. Like 

Solomon’s seal, bleeding hearts 

are rhizomatous perennials, 

flowering in spring and early 

summer. They like light shade 

but flower best with some sun. 

‘Alba’ is a pure white form. 

SPECIAL NORTH AMERICANS 

Trilliums are very special and 

beautiful North American 

woodland plants. One species, 

Trillium grandiflorum, is called 

wake robin, as it pops up in 

spring just as the robins appear. 

The plant has three sepals, 

three petals and three leaves, 

actually bracts, and some have 

attractive marbling. The flowers 

are creamy white, pink, deep 

red or yellow. The little snow 

trillium, T. nivale, has white 

flowers. Trilliums grow well 

under deciduous trees, as they 

like sunlight in early spring and 

dappled shade later in summer. 

BLUEBELL WOODS 

If you like the idea of a bluebell 

wood, then the choices are 

English bluebells (Hyacinthoides 

non-scripta) and the more 

common Spanish bluebells 

(H. hispanica). English bluebells 

are scented and flower only on 

one side of the stem. Spanish 

bluebells have taller, upright 

flower stalks with flowers all 

around the stem, in shades 

ranging from white, through pink 

to blue. They like moist but freedraining 

soil and need some sun 

to flower well. 

A similar effect can be 

produced with our native 

Chatham Island forget-me-not 

(Myosotidium hortensia) which 

can be tricky to grow, but if 

successful, will reward you 

with deep green, glossy leaves 

and large heads of blue flowers 

in spring. 

SUMMER FLOWERS 

Native rengarenga lilies, 

(Arthropodium cirratum), with 

their strap-like leaves, grow well 

in shade and in summer produce 

panicles of starry white flowers 

with yellow stamens. Cultivars 

like ‘Matapouri Bay’ have a more 

compact growth habit. 

Similar strap-like leaves are 

found on clivias (Clivia miniata) 

but their flowers are more 

spectacular, in bright shades 

of orange and lemon, that 

certainly light up a shady spot 

from early summer, especially 

if massed under trees. Clivias 

tolerate dry shade. 

So if you have a shady garden, 

there’s no reason for it not to be 

a beautiful one. 

GROW YOUR 

OWN SEEDLINGS 

PARASENE SELF WATERING 

PROPAGATOR 

• Capillary mat ensures seedlings 

receive correct amont of water. 

• Insulated growing tray maintains even 

temperatures for strong root growth. 

• Reservoir holds three weeks 

supply of water. 

• Peg board pushes out seedlings 

to prevent root damage. 

TAKE THE 

BACKACHE OUT 

OF WEEDING 

Parasene Weed Wand makes it easy 

to weed terraces, paved areas, gravel 

paths and garden edges. 

With automatic push button ignition, the high 

temperature flame disrupts the cell structure 

of weeds causing them to wither and die. 

• Lightweight, easy to use, flame weed 

burner for clearing weeds 

• Takes the back ache out of weeding 

• Chemical free 

• Burns away individual weeds 

• Burns at a safe distance 

• Ideal for lighting barbeques and incinerators 

AvAILAbLE AT 

gardener.kiwi 

kiwigardener 35

Not 

just 

lilies 

There is a name that has been synonymous 

with lillies for almost 70 years. But there is more 

to Lilyfields than its namesake flower. 

WORDS GILLIAN VINE 

Photos LILYFIELDS 

As restrictions around the 

coronavirus pandemic eased 

slightly in May, David and Wendy 

Millichamp were working nonstop 

packing and dispatching 

lily bulbs from their Lilyfields 

nursery at Mount Somers. 

Like other nurseries around 

New Zealand, they were dealing 

with a flood of orders and 

couldn’t have been happier. 

Part of the reason for 

gardeners’ enthusiasm, he feels, 

is how well suited lilies are for 

every region. 

Proof of lilies’ popularity is 

the long history of the business, 

which has been part of the 

New Zealand nursery scene for 

almost 70 years. 

LOOKING BACK 

In the early 1950s, the late 

Len Tuffery was operating 

Dunhampton Lily Fields in 

New Plymouth. By the mid- 

1970s Stuart and Maidie 

McIntosh, with the Thomases, 

had taken over the nursery and 

were followed by Noeline and 

Gerald Keast. 

In the 1980s, the Keasts 

moved the business to Mt 

Somers, in inland mid- 

Canterbury, after purchasing 

bulbs from the McIntoshes 

and obtaining North American 

Lilybulbs also. 

Asked why they would have 

made such a momentous 

decision, David summed it up in 

one word: “Soil.” 

“We have good soil and don’t 

irrigate, as we get nice rain 

off the hills,” he adds. And 

chilly winters help ensure 

healthy bulbs. 

David’s parents, John and 

Paddy Millichamp, bought 

Dunhampton Lily Fields in 1989, 

handing over to David and 

Wendy in 1995. The name was 

shortened to Lilyfields and is 

well-known to lily lovers around 

the country. 

MOST POPULAR 

“In my parents’ days, I remember 

paddocks of Lilium regale, 

Christmas lilies,” David says. 

They are still Lilyfields’ most 

popular bulb, with an average 

of 10,000 sold each year. In 

addition, he and Wendy offer 

other lilies, chosen for their 

strong, vigorous growth and 

good colour range. 

The majority are scented, as 

IMAGE Gillian Vine 


the Millichamps have found that 

perfume is a big factor for many 

people when selecting lilies for 

their gardens. Fragrant Oriental 

and Oriental trumpet (OT) 

varieties dominate the Lilyfields 

list, with ‘Conca d’Or’ and pink 

‘Sorbonne’ big sellers. 

David’s favourite is ‘Conca 

d’Or’, notable for huge, highly 

perfumed cream and yellow 

florets. As it will grow more than 

2m tall, on very strong stems, it 

is recommended for the back of 

a bed. 

KEEPING THEM HEALTHY 

Commercially, lilies need to 

be moved to new ground at 

intervals to keep them healthy 

and ensure the highest possible 

quality for everything they sell. 

Therefore, David and Wendy 

have expanded to another 

property to ensure crop rotation. 

Home gardeners would not 

need to do this unless their lilies 

are obviously in a unsuitable 

spot, but do need to feed them 

annually to maintain health 

and vigour. 

“Knock back aphids, as they 

are the main things that spread 

debilitating viruses,” David says. 

He recommends using rose 

spray with some mineral oil 

added to make it more effective. 

CHANGING WITH THE TIMES 

“In all small businesses, you’re 

always looking forward. 

We’ve got to keep looking at 

ways to keep our business 

fresh,” says David. 

Lilyfields has been refined 

significantly in the past decade, 

says Wendy, to become more 

efficient. 

With just the two of them 

and a small team of part-time 

workers, they decided cut 

flowers were too much work for 

the returns. 

Instead, they have introduced 

new spring bulb lines, mainly 

crocuses and tulips as well as 

paeonies. These are all South 

Island grown, then packaged 

and distributed by Lilyfields. 

Another successful avenue 

has been moving into trees and 

shrubs about five years ago. 

“David’s first love is probably 

trees,” Wendy says. “It’s 

stimulating for him doing this, 

as he’s really good at plants.” 

The acers have been 

particularly popular, especially 

their new release, the snakebark 

maple (Acer pensylvaticum) 

and at $12 each for threeyear-old 

seedlings, it’s easy to 

understand why. 

At the same time, Wendy has 

cut back on her floristry work, 

though she still loves doing 

wedding flowers and decorating 

halls and other venues. 

The company has adapted 

with changing times, but all 

being well, they will be back 

out at their familiar stomping 

ground with a stall at A&P 

shows. And with almost 70 years 

of knowledge and experience to 

share, it is well worth a visit for 

any lily lovers. 

below ‘Royal Sunset’ is an Asiatic hybrid 

sold by Lilyfields. 

Opposite Clockwise from top Lilyfields 

owners Wendy and David Millichamp; 

Ginny the golden Labrador among the 

regale lilies; ‘Redford’, an Orientaltrumpet 

(OT) hybrid; Tulips at 

Lilyfields; ‘Santender’ is an Oriental lily 

new to Lilyfields’ catalogue. 

IMAGE Gillian Vine 

gardener.kiwi 

kiwigardener 37

gardening 101 

How-to for beginner gardeners with Shannon Hunt. 

Get creative 

with flowering 

plants 

New, old and inbetween 

gardeners 

often ask what flowering 

plants they can grow 

to brighten up long, 

cold winter days. Here 

are a few annual and 

perennial plants and 

bushes you can buy as 

seedlings, potted colour 

or saplings to pop into 

your garden and/or pots 

right now for instant 

and ongoing cheer. 

Choose Your Hellebores 

Shade-loving, winter-flowering 

Helleborus (also known as 

winter roses) come in the most 

inspiring of colour ranges, 

from deep maroon with lemon 

centres to stark white with 

gold centres. There are plain, 

speckled and spotty designs and 

some sport dark, deep-red veins. 

Acquiring old and new varieties 

of these humble, low-growing 

plants can easily become a little 

obsessive according to seasoned 

hellebore lovers, so be warned! 

Pick Pretty Polyanthus 

& Primulas 

When planted en masse in your 

winter garden or in clumps in 

earthy terracotta pots on your 

outdoor decks and tables, 

polyanthus and primula will 

instantly lift your spirits. These 

much-loved, cheery-faced 

flowers are both part of the 

Pansies 

Primula family and will quickly 

lift one’s spirits on the greyest of 

winter days. 

Add Pop with Pansies 

These little beauties are very 

easy to grow from seed before 

it gets too cold, but if you didn’t 

do that earlier you can still head 

down to your favourite garden 

store and fill your basket with 

flowering seedlings. Available 

in a myriad of plain and multicolours, 

if you are lucky you may 

also find some old-fashioned, 

frilly ones in the mix. Pansies 

come in large and smaller sizes, 

not to be confused with the more 

petite viola. All of these make an 

awesome winter show in your 

garden, window boxes, pots 

and troughs. 

Double up with Daphne 

Don’t be fooled into thinking 

that superbly scented daphne 

only comes in two varieties; 

the pink and white flowered 

Daphne odora ‘Leucanthe’ and 

‘Leucanthe Alba’ with white 

flowers. There is quite a wide 

range, featuring semi-evergreen 

(D. x burkwoodii) and variegated 

types (D. odora ‘Rubra Variegata’) 

as well as the narrower-shaped, 

3m high variety, D. bholua, 

known as Himalayan daphne. 

White daphne will smell as sweet 

as the pink varieties too. Plant 

daphne with dry pine needles 

(organic) or acid food (available 

in a handy bag at your garden 

centre) in well-draining soil 

where it will get some sunshine 

and plenty of shade. 

Plant a Wintersweet Bush 

Wintersweet (Chimonanthus 

praecox) is a wonderful bush. It 

flowers during the coldest days 

of winter, is leafless when it 

carries its highly scented flowers 

and then, when the leaves do 

appear, they too are scented. 

The bark is also scented, all year 

round. Just give it a scratch to 

release the smell. 

Enjoy Your Stands of 

Snapdragons 

These sweet-smelling “rabbitfaced” 

flowers are a must 

for any winter garden. For a 

very impressive show, plant 

out several circles of Iceland 

poppies inside each other and 

surround these with two rows of 

snapdragons. The poppies will 

wave in the wind in the centre 

while the snapdragons will stand 

tall surrounding the poppies like 

uniformed guards. 

Choose Your Poppies 

Whether it’s the beloved 

Flanders poppy (Papaver 

rhoeas), with its red flowers 

complete with black spots or an 

Iceland poppy (P. nudicaule) in 

white, orange, apricot or yellow, 

there is a wide range of poppies 

available to the Kiwi gardener. 

Taller growing Oriental poppies 

(P. orientale) come in red and 

orange through to white and 

variations of pink, while the 

single blooms of Shirley poppies, 

an off-shoot of the common 

poppy (P. rhoeas), have tissuelike 

petals in softer shades. The 

peony poppy (P. paeoniflorum) 

boasts particularly frilly, double 

flowers that are similar in look to 

their namesake. 

Plant a Mānuka, Camellia, 

Rhododendron or 

Magnolia 

Mānuka bursts into masses of 

white, red or pink flowers from 

late winter into spring and in 

warmer climates continues 

to flower into late summer. 

Camellias, rhododendrons and 

magnolias all flower now or over 

the next few months, so why not 

plant one (or all of them!) now 

for a heart-warming show. 

Mānuka 

Tip 

Winter bulbs are best 

planted just before the 

frosts start so they can 

flower in July, August 

or September. If you 

have missed the boat 

this year, make sure 

to buy your bulbs next 

year around April or May 

so you can enjoy their 

joyful colour palette over 

winter and spring. 

Next Month 

Protect Your New 

Lettuce Seedlings 

IMAGE Left to right Westend61/Getty Images, LazingBee/Getty Images 


Caring 

For Your 

House 

Plants 

The perfect range of foods & nutrients to help your Orchids & 

House Plants flourish. Convenient ready-to-use dripper’s, sold 

in singles & 4 packs. Also available in concentrate 175ml. 

burnets.co.nz 

gardener.kiwi 

kiwigardener 39

Creating a 

miniature garden 

Discover a love of terrariums and you will soon find yourself surrounded 

by glass-bound marvels. 

Words & Photos Sue Witteman 

Above While anything goes, in this 

aquarium terrarium an obvious lime 

theme has been used for added 

impact. 

Sometimes you are given a gift that inspires you 

to do something creative. Recently, my kindly 

aunt gave me a handsome large glass bottle and 

I could not wait to turn it into a cool terrarium. 

These miniature glass-bound gardens are not only 

a delight to not only have in your home but also 

to create. 

To begin, I thought about the theme and colour 

scheme I would like and began to collect together 

bits and pieces to construct my terrarium. 

I decided to go with a white and green colour 

palette and sorted through my indoor plant 

collection to source the plants that fit that criteria. 

Apart from appearance, you want to choose plants 

that have small root balls, or if not, then ones 

that are amenable to having their root balls cut 

down. It is surprising how much room a root ball 

can take up when they are jostling for position in 

a constricted space. Because bottles have necks, 

it can be tricky to place the plants in the bottle 

and fiddle around with them to achieve a pleasing 

arrangement. An easier way is to use a piece of 

paper or cardboard and draw around the bottle to 

replicate the size of the bottom of the bottle. You 

can then play with possible options on the circle 

without going crazy trying to do it in the bottle 

and causing damage to the plants in the process. 

You need to decide whether you want the 

planting to be viewed from just one side or if 

you want it to be viewed from all sides. If you 

want a front view, then your taller plants can 

go at the back. If you want an all-rounder, then 

your taller plants will be positioned in the 

middle of the bottle. 

Once you have figured out your configuration, 

it is time to add the growing media to the bottle. 

Begin by putting down a layer of gravel. I put 

in about 8cm, but this measurement is flexible 

depending on how tall the bottle is and how 

much gravel you have on hand. I used smallsized 

brownish gravel because I like the colour, 

but in the past I have used the grey chip off the 

drive. When pouring your gravel in, place a soft 

cloth or paper towel on the bottom to stop the 

gravel hitting the glass with any force – especially 

important if you are using big stones. 

Next, if you have any charcoal, add it on top of 

the gravel to keep your little ecosystem from going 


sour. If you don’t have any charcoal then don’t 

fret: not everyone uses it. Just be extra careful 

with your watering. I thought I didn’t have any but 

then remembered my fire bowl, and sure enough, 

there was some chunky charcoal in there, perfect 

for the job. 

Time now to add your “soil” layer. For this use 

seed-raising mix instead of normal potting mix. 

The reason is there is less in the way of fertiliser in 

the seed-raising mix than you will find in potting 

mix. This distinction is important because you 

don’t want your plants to grow too well or to 

their optimum size. This is a small world you are 

creating and you want your plants to stay in scale 

visually and to fit within the confines of their 

container. I put in a layer of mix about 7cm deep 

and probably wouldn’t want to go much shallower 

than this, though it does depend to some extent 

on the size of the plants you are using. I then 

added some cinnamon as an insurance against 

any potential fungal or bacterial issues. 

It’s planting time so get your plants ready. If 

they are dry, water them well before planting. It 

is tricky to do it adequately afterwards. It is not 

only difficult to water individual plants when they 

are planted closely together, but you don’t want 

to be pouring a lot of water into your container. 

Check your plants for pests and disease and find 

a substitute if you find any issues. If you are really 

keen to use a plant that attracts pests, then go 

and spray it well before using it, but it is not ideal. 

Groom the plants by cutting off any old leaves 

because this is hard to do once they are planted. 

Begin by removing the plants from their pots. 

Check the roots for any unwanted insects such 

as the dreaded mealybug and if all is good, then 

reduce the size of the root-ball. But only do this 

if it is too big to plant into your soil layer. While 

cutting root balls isn’t usually recommended, 

these plants are going into a high humidity 

environment, and so any stress on the plant will 

be minimised. 

Plant around the outside first. If you begin in the 

middle, it then becomes more difficult to plant 

the perimeter. Once you have done the circle of 

planting, finish off by planting your taller plants in 

the middle. Use this procedure for both the front 

viewing and the all-round viewing, though your 

taller plants will be planted at the back on the 

perimeter before you put the medium-sized plants 

in the centre. Place your plants a few centimetres 

apart; you want to find that sweet spot where 

there is still room for the plants to grow a little, 

but at the same time you want it to look lush 

and not too bare. It also depends on the growth 

habits of the plants. Some will be spreaders and 

need a bit more room, whereas others will grow 

more upright and not need as much. Snuggle 

your plants in as you plant them. This is not as 

easy as it sounds, especially if the root balls are 

abutting each other but do your best. I found I 

had to trickle some more soil in to fill gaps that 

were proving tricky to fill with the available soil. 

I was lucky in that I could get my arm into my 

bottle (though I did get too enthusiastic, getting 

my upper arm stuck in the neck – embarrassing!) 

but if the hole is too small for this, then you will 

need to use some purpose-made tools to plant 

with. You can buy or make your own by taping a 

kitchen fork to a piece of bamboo. Do the same 

with a spoon and use these through the neck of 

the bottle. You may also need a long pair of 

tongs or tweezers (I have some tweezers that 

are about 40cm long) to hold the plants in place 

while you plant. If you can’t help yourself, and I 

couldn’t, then you can add some ornamentation 

to your garden. I placed two realistic ceramic 

frogs amongst the plants at the front where I 

can see them, but butterflies or dinosaurs could 

also be fun. 

Above from left Use a circle drawn on 

paper to play around with possible 

plant combinations; Adding the 

layers of gravel, charcoal and seedraising 

mix. 

gardener.kiwi 

kiwigardener 41

Above clockwise from top left Cut the 

root ball down to size if necessary; For 

a touch of whimsy, add in an animal 

or insect of your choice; Take care 

with watering the finished terrarium – 

you can always add more if you need 

to; The miniature gardens planted 

up. They don’t all have to be big – I 

popped a leftover fern and some 

moss in the flask; One advantage of 

using an aquarium is that you can 

easily arrange the plants in situ before 

planting up. 

When planting is completed, it’s time to gently 

and sparingly water them in. You want the soil to 

be just moist but not saturated. Use a watering 

can or similar with a fine spout and a thin trickle. 

While you were planting, you may have got 

some soil on the glass, so use this watering time 

to wash it off or if this doesn’t work, use a long 

paint brush to brush the soil off. If you are going 

to have an enclosed system with a lid on, or the 

neck of your bottle is small, then the water has 

less chance to escape and watering correctly is 

more crucial. My bottle didn’t have a bung, but 

I persuaded my husband to make me one out of 

plywood and it is working just fine. If you can get 

a large cork, then you could use that also. 

Place your freshly planted terrarium out of any 

direct sun because it will heat up surprisingly 

quickly and probably cook your plants. If 

condensation occurs in a closed vessel, then 

remove the lid to let some of the moisture out. 

Congratulations! Your bottle garden is done 

so pour yourself a wine, sit back and admire 

it. There will be a little maintenance down the 

line, perhaps a bit more water will be required, 

or some vigorous growth or a wayward leaf will 

need to be snipped off, but for the most part it 

will take care of itself. 

After I had done my bottle garden, I was so 

enthused to continue the planting-in-glass 

theme that I dug out an old aquarium. This time 

I chose a lime as my base colour and planted 

accordingly. The method is essentially the same 

as doing the bottle garden but much easier as 

you are not working through a narrow neck. The 

aquarium can be open or closed depending on 

whether you have a lid for it. If it is open you will 

of course, need to water it more often. This time 

I planted it to be seen from the front and layered 

the plants from short up to tall at the back. 

Choosing your terrarium plants 

The plants you choose for your terrariums will 

all have one thing in common; they will either 

like humidity or, at the very least, be able to 

tolerate humidity. It is an opportunity to use 

those plants that crave moist air, as often those 

plants are the hardest to cater for in the dry air 

of a house environment. Also choose plants that 

remain smallish or are happy to be trimmed if 

they get a bit overgrown. If you include flowering 

plants such as the African violet, make sure you 

remove the flowers as soon as they start to die 

off as old flowers can turn mouldy and infect 

the terrarium. 


Plants to consider 

Use a selection with different leaf shapes, colours 

and textures to give a more interesting look. 

• Japanese sweet flag (Acorus gramineus) for a 

grass-like look. 

• Maidenhair ferns (Adiantum) absolutely love 

the humidity in a terrarium and provide a lacy 

look. Ferns are a good choice – I even went 

outside and dug up a few to put in my bottle. 

Also try button fern (Pellaea rotundifolia) and 

the foxtail fern (Asparagus meyeri) useful for 

providing spires. 

• Some of the smaller begonias, such as Begonia 

‘Eyelash’, work well. 

• Smaller-growing calatheas can be used for 

their patterned leaves. I used Calathea vittata, 

which looks like a small hosta. 

• Parlour palm (Chamaedorea elegans) for a 

tropical, small-tree look. 

• Spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum) for its 

green and white strappy leaves. 

• Earth stars (Cryptanthus) provide interest at 

ground level. 

• The smaller Ficus species can be used to 

grow along the soil. The small green-leaved 

F. pumila, or the variegated trailing fig, 

F. radicans ‘Variegata’. 

• Fittonia argyroneura has pretty white and green 

netted leaves. 

• The ivies (Hedera), particularly the smallleaved 

varieties, are hardy and great fillers. 

• Prayer plants (Marantas) are for bigger 

containers but provide horizontal interest. 

• Moon valley (Pilea mollis) has green and 

burgundy leaves to bring in another colour and 

the aluminum plant (Pilea cadierei) for its silver 

striped leaves. 

• African violets (Saintpaula) are good, especially 

the miniature ones, which are nicely in scale in 

your small contained garden. 

• Baby’s tears (Soleirolia soleirolii) is a useful 

small-leaved ground cover and comes in green, 

lime and variegated options. 

• Mother of thousands (Saxifraga stolonifera) 

provide round-shaped leaves. 

I enjoyed making my terrarium and liked 

the way it made my plants look extra special 

when combined together in their little indoor 

garden. You don’t need a large bottle to play 

with; smaller containers can be used, even jars. 

Just pay attention to the height of the plants 

you are using and scale down accordingly 

and you will be fine. You don’t even need to 

use “proper” houseplants. My next terrarium 

is going to have a woodland theme, with small 

ferns and mosses and maybe tiny tree seedlings, 

whatever I can forage outside. And it would also 

be fun to do a meadow terrarium, a dry succulent 

one, or a carnivorous plant one … I’m going to 

need more bottles. 

gardener.kiwi 

Fittonia or ‘Nerve’ plant - wear striking 

leaves of pink and green, white and green, 

or green and red. 

As this houseplant originates in a tropical 

setting, it flourishes within a high humidity 

environment. Misting may be required to 

maintain humid-like conditions – or for the ideal 

environment try in a terrarium. 

Visit www.gellerts.co.nz for your local stockist. 

kiwigardener 43

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shrub of the month 

Smokin’ hot 

A veritable all-rounder, who wouldn’t want a Cotinus in the garden? 

IMAGE DoraDalton/Getty Images 

Words Sue Witteman 

This shrub has the telling 

common name of smoke 

bush, with good reason. You 

may have noticed when walking 

around your neighbourhood in 

summer, the odd large shrub 

covered with curious panicles of 

fluffy flowers, looking not unlike 

puffs of smoke. The flowers on 

this shrub look like no other 

and are an arresting sight when 

in full puff. But the excitement 

doesn’t end there, for in autumn 

it is the turn of the leaves to 

stop you in your tracks, when 

they turn the most stunning 

colours of red, yellow or orange. 

Green, purple or yellow? 

Not only do Cotinus have great 

autumn colour, they also have 

a range of spring and summer 

colours from which to choose. 

For the green-leaved versions, 

there is C. coggygria, the 

European smoke bush, or the 

larger-growing C. obovatus (syn. 

C. americanus) the American 

smoke bush, which also sports 

larger leaves. 

If you would like one of 

the purple-leaved Cotinus, 

there is C. coggygria ‘Foliis 

Purpureis’, the purple smoke 

bush; C. coggygria ‘Purpurea’; 

C. coggygria ‘Royal Purple’ and 

C. coggygria ‘Velvet Cloak’. All 

are lovely varieties with varying 

degrees of purple in their leaves. 

For green and purple-tinged 

leaves, there is C. ‘Grace’, 

which starts off purple and 

then a bit of green creeps in, 

and C. coggygria ‘Red Spirit’, 

starting off green and changing 

to purple as the season 

progresses. 

For a fresh lime-yellow leaf, 

plant the delicious-looking 

C. coggygria ‘Golden Spirit’. 

Most Cotinus flowers start out 

a pale-pink, turning smoky grey 

as they age. The purple-leaved 

varieties have stronger coloured 

flowers of purplish-pink. 

How to use 

Cotinus can be planted as 

shrubs or grown as small trees, 

usually to about 3m in height. 

If using it as a shrub, you can 

either leave it alone to do its 

thing or, if you want a smaller 

bush but bigger leaves, then 

prune it down nearly to ground 

level. The resultant long, fresh 

stems look spectacular and 

are also great for picking and 

adding to a vase. The fluffy 

flower heads can also be 

attached to a wreath, forming a 

soft, ethereal-looking circlet. 

Many successful gardens have 

included purple foliage to act 

as points of interest in what is 

usually a monochromatic green 

scheme. Cotinus do this job 

superbly – with a good average 

height, the option to prune if 

required, and the purple leaves 

have a grape-like bloom to 

them which softens the look. 

They can be planted on their 

own as a large and showy 

gardener.kiwi 

kiwigardener 45


IMAGE Clockwise from top Maksims Grigorjevs/Getty Images, seven75/Getty Images, AlSimonov/Getty Images, Alexey_M/Getty Images, Sue Witteman

specimen, imparting a regal 

look to the garden. 

Fast, upright growers when 

young, they slow down as they 

age and end up forming large 

many-branched, round-headed 

shrubs. And they are easy to 

propagate – just cut off any 

of the branches that lie on 

the soil and that have formed 

roots (a procedure to carry 

out in autumn). If the Cotinus 

hasn’t yet layered itself, you 

can also take softwood cuttings 

in summer. 

I have a confession to make: 

while I must admit I have 

yet to plant a Cotinus in my 

own garden, I have, however, 

planted many in other people’s 

gardens, and am excitedly 

looking forward to my next 

move to my forever garden, 

whereupon I shall plant as 

many varieties of Cotinus as I 

can get hold of. 

Care 

Cotinus are hardy and can be 

planted anywhere you can 

provide them with an open, 

sunny position and free-draining 

soil. Contrary to many shrubs, 

the soil shouldn’t be too fertile 

or too moist as this will lead 

to unruly branch growth and 

poor colour. While Cotinus can 

be grown in most climates, leaf 

colour will be better in areas that 

have colder winters and drier 

summers. Though the greenleaved 

versions can tolerate 

very light shade, the purplehued 

ones will lose their colour 

and revert to green unless they 

receive full sun. An exception to 

the sun rule is 

C. coggygria ‘Golden Spirit’, 

which appreciates partial shade. 

Cotinus are amenable to being 

pruned, with most of the pruning 

being carried out at the end of 

winter – remove only a few of the 

older branches at a time. Only 

prune if you need to reshape or 

reduce the size, as smoke bushes 

flower on wood that is three 

years old. If this is pruned off, 

you are in for a bit of a wait until 

the next bout of flowering. And I 

can vouch for this indeed being 

the case. Years ago, I had planted 

a gentle curve of Cotinus in a 

friend’s garden and had it in my 

head that they should be pruned 

hard every year before the spring 

growth had begun, and then 

wondered why they were such 

poor flowerers. Now, I know. 

Plant a Cotinus if you can. You 

will be rewarded with year-round 

seasonal interest, from the 

round leaves to the cool flowers 

to the autumn colour to the 

interesting skeleton in winter. It 

is a tough, good all-rounder, and 

you can’t ask for more than that 

in a shrub. 

Opposite clockwise from top With 

handsome foliage such as this, 

Cotinus coggyria ‘Royal Purple’ looks 

good even on a rainy day; C. coggyria 

showing the ‘puffs of smoke’ from 

which it gets its common name; The 

bonus of the autumn colouring of 

C. coggyria – it lights up a late season 

garden; Continuing the fire theme, the 

foliage glows as the late autumn sun 

hits it; C. coggyria ‘Velvet Cloak’ in its 

full flower and foliage glory, putting 

on a show. 

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kiwigardener 47

Cutting 

practise 

Taking hardwood and root cuttings is a simple and 

cost-effective process for the home gardener. 

Words & Photos Rebecca Lees 

Jenny Perano is a passionate advocate in the field of organic 

gardening. Based in South Canterbury, Jenny has been sharing 

her knowledge with young and old for 25 years. She has a varied 

background from plant propagation to commercial nursery 

production, as well as many years doing practical orchard work. 

This year, she will be sharing her knowledge about organic 

gardening principles with Rebecca Lees. 

IMAGE triocean/Getty Images 


HARDWOOD 

CUTTINGS 

Hardwood cuttings are treated 

differently than soft or semisoftwood 

cuttings. Soft or semisoft 

cuttings are cared for in a 

humid environment because 

they have leaves, and the leaves 

provide the source of water to the 

plant. Hardwood cuttings taken of 

deciduous plants don’t have any 

leaves, as they are taken during 

the dormant phase. Placing these 

plants in a humid environment 

would cause them to rot. Instead 

they are left outside in the cold to 

encourage root formation. 

Usually, hardwood cuttings 

are placed outside in the soil 

during winter, and transplanted 

the following winter. However, 

this slows down your ability to 

transplant the cutting once it 

has formed roots. The following 

process, shared with us by Jenny 

Perano, enables us to bypass this 

issue and speed things up. 

You will need 

• Black plastic (plant pots are 

not so good as you will damage 

the roots when you remove the 

plant. With the plastic roll they 

are less inclined to tangle and 

there is less damage to the roots) 

• Good quality propagation mix 

• Sharp secateurs or snips 

• Rooting hormone 

• Water 

• Hardwood cuttings 

Take a hardwood cutting 

Always use current season’s growth. This is 

lighter in colour than what was produced 

in the previous year. Use healthy, diseasefree 

wood. The cutting should be cut above 

a leaf node at the top, and below the leaf 

node at the bottom. The cutting should 

be a good size in length, approximately 

30cm long. Score both sides of the bottom 

to reveal the cambium layer, being careful 

to keep the lower leaf node intact. Always 

take extra cuttings, as it is normal for some 

cuttings not to take. 

Prepare the cuttings 

Lay out some black plastic and place 

propagation mix a third of the way up, as 

shown. Dip each cutting into hormone 

powder then lay the cuttings on top of the 

propagation mix. Many different types of 

cuttings can be placed on the same piece of 

plastic – just remember to label them. 

Create a bag of cuttings 

Fold the bottom of the plastic up to cover 

your mix. Fold in one end and roll the 

plastic up, as shown. Tie with a piece of 

string, then snip holes in the bottom of the 

plastic to act as drainage holes. Water and 

place your bag of cuttings outside. 

Note 

If you are using pots instead of black 

plastic, place the cuttings into propagation 

mix around halfway up the stem. This 

is also what you would do if placing 

hardwood cuttings directly into the soil. 

Maintain your cuttings 

Check on your cuttings every few weeks 

or after any dry spells. You can lift the 

bag to see if it is light and whether it may 

need watering. Keep them moist but not 

soaking wet. 

Plant on 

In the spring you will see new growth 

appear on the cuttings, which will have now 

taken and formed roots. Any time from then 

on you can repot your successful hardwood 

cuttings, without having to wait until the 

following winter. Jenny suggests you keep 

these cuttings in pots until you’re ready to 

plant them out in their final position. 

What is the cambium layer? 

The cambium layer has special cells that 

have the ability to form stems, roots and 

thickness. The cambium layer can be 

revealed by scoring your cuttings. 

What is a hardwood cutting? 

A hardwood cutting is a cutting taken of 

a deciduous tree, shrub or vine during its 

dormant phase. 

gardener.kiwi 

kiwigardener 49

Image The fleshy roots of the 

drumstick primrose (Primula 

denticulata) make it a great 

plant to propagate through 

root cuttings. 

IMAGE skymoon13/Getty Images 


ROOT CUTTINGS 

Taking root cuttings has to be one of the simplest 

propagation methods. Plants with fleshy roots or those 

that produce suckers are ideal for this. Some plants to 

try include the plume poppy (Macleaya cordata), Oriental 

poppy (Papaver orientale), the drumstick primrose 

(Primula denticulata), horseradish (Armoracia rusticana), 

Japanese anemone (Anemone hupehensis var. japonica) 

and mullein (Verbascum). 

Take a root cutting 

First, prepare a tray with good quality propagation mix. To take a 

root cutting, you can do one of two things: 

1. Cut the root into pieces and place in the soil with the top of the 

root sitting above the media. 

2. Cut the root into pieces and lay the root on the media so it is 

sitting in the media a little bit (as shown). 

Note 

By cutting the top of the root straight and the bottom on a 

diagonal you will ensure you know which is top and bottom 

when planting. 

Maintain your cuttings 

Keep propagation mix moist but not soaking wet, and place 

the tray outside. Check on it every now and then, and ensure it 

doesn’t completely dry out. 

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Dare to be 

different 

This month we help you dream of a new way to use the most 

exciting part of your garden – so go on, make a plan for you and 

your greenhouse to grow in ways you never have before! 

Words Diana Noonan 

IMAGE xeni4ka/Getty Images Opposite jeanhoffmann/Getty Images 


Winter is the perfect time to break boundaries 

in your under-cover growing space. The 

summer plants have been cleared out, and the 

soil left behind is a blank canvas waiting for a 

masterpiece to take shape. 

Hello citrus! 

If you live in a cooler part of the country, you no 

doubt “ooh” and “ah” at every citrus tree you 

see growing in the big outdoors. Perhaps you’ve 

even had a little success at coaxing a shivering 

lemon into bearing fruit against a sunny wall 

of your house. But just imagine if a citrus crop 

was a yearly event – and not just lemons! 

That’s what you can aspire to when you quit 

growing the more traditional greenhouse crops 

(after all, you can buy them for a song in-season) 

and give over the space to dwarf mandarins, 

tangelos, grapefruit – and more! Alternatively, 

you can have your cake (or citrus!) and eat 

it too, when you opt to container-grow your 

citrus and move the trees out of the greenhouse 

during the warmer months when you want to 

grow tomatoes. 

Dwarf citrus grow from around 1.5 to 2m high, 

which makes them perfect for the greenhouse. 

These citrus are a little different to other types 

of dwarf fruit trees because, rather than being 

true dwarf varieties, they are actually grafted 

onto a dwarfing rootstock Poncirus trifoliata 

‘Flying Dragon’. Left to its own devices, this slowgrowing, 

hook-thorned citrus variety contributes 

to its grafted scions attributes such as a root 

fungi tolerance and cold hardiness. (If it ever 

gets away on you, you can use its bitter fruit 

in marmalades.) 

Although the dwarf citrus trees may be 

smaller in stature than their large cousins, their 

fruit is full sized. 

Growing conditions 

Greenhouse dwarf citrus requires a minimum 

night-time temperature of around 10°C if they 

are to keep putting on a little growth over the 

winter, and fruit reliably. This is possible unless 

you are living in the deep south or mountainous 

regions. However, if you can’t guarantee that 

minimum, don’t give up; it may be that your trees 

experience some leaf-drop over winter, or that 

the harvest will be just a little on the light side or 

be delayed by a few weeks. And if your climate 

brings you severe frosts and snow, you can 

always wrap up your indoor babies in frost cloth 

over the coldest periods. 

Above Have the best of both worlds by 

growing citrus under cover in winter 

and freeing up your growing space by 

moving them outdoors in summer. 

Opposite Imagine if a citrus crop was a 

yearly event – and not just lemons ... 

dwarf mandarins, tangelos, grapefruit 

and more! 

gardener.kiwi 

kiwigardener 53

IMAGE Clockwise from left ChiccoDodiFC/Getty Images, Christina Vartanova/Getty Images, baianliang/Getty Images 

Clockwise from left Have the best of 

both worlds by growing citrus under 

cover in winter and freeing up your 

growing space by moving them 

outdoors in summer; Greenhouse 

shelving means you can bring in extra 

little citrus plants over the coldest 

months; In under-cover spaces careful 

pruning is essential to create airflow. 

Spacing 

Dwarf citrus do best if planted 2m apart, but in a 

greenhouse situation (especially if you are using 

the space only to hold potted plants that will be 

moved out over summer) you can close up the 

gap a little. If you decide to do this, you will need 

to keep the trees well fertilised and carefully 

pruned to ensure adequate air movement 

through the branches, and be on hand to manage 

vents and windows. 

Care 

The secret to cosseting your under-cover dwarf 

citrus is to slow down on the watering (although 

a little each day is far better than a soaking every 

week or two). And, contrary to what your instincts 

might tell you about a fruit tree surviving through 

winter, give the dwarf trees a little citrus fertiliser 

each week to 10 days. If leaves are beginning to 

yellow, feed with liquid magnesium chelate as it 

assists the plants in taking up nutrients. 

Although dwarf citrus will appreciate the heat 

of a greenhouse in cooler regions, it won’t thank 

you for significant fluctuations in temperature – 

something that is very possible in the greenhouse 

situation where one minute you have a frost 

settling on the ground, and the next you have a 

cloudless sky and heat beating in through the 

plastic or glass. Create an even temperature by 

attending to ventilation (use doors as well as 

windows and vents, but be sure to net doors 

where birds may prove a problem to the fruit). 

Pruning 

Pruning is essential if you are to keep the trees 

small to allow for air circulation, and to ensure 

they don’t reach beyond picking height (you 

don’t want to be using ladders or standing 

on chairs to reach fruit in your fragile glass or 

plastic environment). A trim also increases fruit 

yields and cuts down on the likelihood of heavy 

branches snapping off with the weight of the 

harvest. Pruning of under-cover citrus can be 

done at any time of year, but late winter and 

early spring is best. Whenever you decide to 

do it, wait until after the fruit has set (in case 

the delicate tiny fruitlets are knocked off or 

you accidentally cut off a branch with young 

fruit growing on it). If your trees are growing 

in pots that are to be moved out when the 

world warms up, think carefully about pruning 

so that the plants will fit out the greenhouse 

door (think “height” as well as “width”). As you 

prune, try to cut out all but six of the lateral 

branches, as this will encourage fruiting. 

When pruning dwarf citrus, it’s important to 

pay close attention to any suckers appearing 

below the graft. The rootstock is quite capable 

of throwing out these suckers and, before you 

know it, the unwanted growth has taken over 

from the grafted wood. If the graft is no longer 

visible (as can happen when trees mature) 

learn to recognise the rootstock by its sharp 

thorns (another reason for snipping them off 

sooner rather than later). 


In-ground or potted? 

If you don’t want to give up your greenhouse 

summer crops, such as tomatoes, capsicum and 

cucumbers, citrus dwarfs are ideal because they 

can be grown in containers and moved outdoors 

when the weather warms up. For the greatest 

chance of success with dwarf citrus grown in 

pots, be sure to choose a container that is at 

least twice the size of the root ball (or three times 

the size if you don’t want to face repotting after 

a year or so). Although terracotta pots have that 

gorgeous Mediterranean look, they do wick the 

moisture away from the soil (and they’re heavy) 

so consider a plastic or metal terracotta lookalike 

container instead. Pots with handles (or to 

which handles can be attached) are ideal, as they 

provide grip when shifting the trees outside and 

mean that two people can share the load. 

When planting dwarf citrus in pots, use a 

quality citrus-mix potting medium and fill the 

bottom 5cm of the container with the mix before 

planting the tree (after first gently teasing out the 

roots). When planted, the roots should be barely 

below the mix once the pot is topped up, and the 

mix should never touch the trunk. 

Under-cover summer care 

In summer, your under-cover dwarf citrus 

growing in the ground will need careful 

attention where watering is concerned. This 

is not your average New Zealand summer 

climate where, even when temperatures are 

hot, you can usually guarantee the odd shower 

of rain. Your dwarf citrus have only one way of 

receiving water, and that is via you. If you have 

any doubts about being able to attend to them 

regularly, invest in an automatic drip waterline 

or, at the very least, install a rainwater barrel 

for your greenhouse to feed into. The less 

distance you have to carry water or run the 

hose, the more likely you are to attend to the 

watering regularly. 

Give it a go 

We encourage you to make the most of your 

greenhouse, summer and winter, with a mini 

orchard of dwarf citrus. These sweet trees 

will add both interest and flavour to the 

quietest months in the gardening calendar, 

and double the value of your under-cover 

growing space. 

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kiwigardener 55 

10 Year Warranty Glasshouses* 5 Year Warranty Greenhouse

IMAGE Taras Dovhych/Getty Images Opposite Rachel Vogan 

Some like it cold 

There is no hibernation in your garden this winter. Some crops thrive in 

the coldest months and now is the time to take advantage. 

Words Rachel Vogan 

Above If you are after a bumper 

harvest, now’s the time to think about 

planting strawberries. 

The middle of winter may not feel like it is 

the right time to do much in the garden. 

However, a number of crops need a dose of cold 

weather to stimulate growth (think garlic) and 

flower buds (think strawberries) for the coming 

season’s crop. 

strawberries 

Midwinter may not seem like the logical time 

to be thinking about strawberries, but if you 

want a bumper harvest, now is the time to plant. 

Cold temperatures stimulate flower bud 

initiation. Therefore, the length of time 

strawberries are in the cold ground increases 

the plant’s capacity to produce a heavier crop. 

Planting new strawberry beds 

Think hot sun, rich dark soil and good access to 

water. To get the ground ready for plants, blend in 

compost and/or manure. If compost and manure 

are not easy to access, look for bags of strawberry 

potting mix. It takes all the guesswork out of 

preparing the soil. Either mix it directly into the 

ground that has already been dug over or use it to 

fill patio tubs, containers and hanging baskets. 

Next, make mounds to plant strawberries 

on. These little hills allow the plants to open 

up and get a maximum amount of light, which 

stimulates flowers, fruit development and 

ripening. Strawberries loathe wet feet and will 

rot easily in these conditions, so planting on 


the mounds helps reduce waterlogging. Also 

consider laying weed mat on the mound. 

Strawberry food 

Before planting, work in strawberry food. Follow 

the instructions on the packet; it’s normally 

about a cup per square metre, depending on the 

brand. This specific plant food has high levels 

of potassium, which stimulates healthy plant 

growth and flower development. 

Spacing between plants 

Where possible allow 20–30cm between plants. 

Overcrowding of plants often causes pest and 

disease issues to crop up due to lack of air 

movement and competition for nutrients and 

water. However, if you are diligent and plan to 

keep a close eye on the plants, you can squeeze 

more into a smaller space. 

Existing strawberry plots 

For plants that are already in the ground, give 

them a haircut this month and remove all the 

large, old, crinkly-looking leaves. Snip off the 

runners and discard these, as they will suck 

much-needed nutrients from the ground and 

from the larger adult plant. 

Apply a generous amount of strawberry 

fertiliser around each plant and make a note on 

your calendar to do this again in spring. 

Straw, straw & more straw 

Once planted, add layers of straw between the 

plants. This helps keep the fruit clean, reduces 

weeds and helps keep the soil moist over the 

warmer months. 

Hang them up 

Strawberries grown in hanging baskets are less 

likely to be attacked by slugs and snails. Choose 

large hanging baskets and fill with the best 

possible potting mix (ideally strawberry mix) 

and place them in a spot where they will be part 

of a regular watering regime. A hanging basket 

full of strawberries would make a wonderful 

Christmas present! 

Above Clockwise from top left Surround 

your plants with straw to keep fruit 

clean and soil moist; Weed mat is a 

good option to consider if you don’t 

go down the straw route; Strawberry 

potting mix and food will help grow 

healthy plants; Get your plants in the 

ground now! 

gardener.kiwi 

kiwigardener 57

IMAGE Clockwise from top Stanislav Ostranitsa/Getty Images, Olga_Kruglova/Getty Images, ronstik/Getty Images, tirc83/Getty Images Opposite from top Westend61/Getty Images, OlgaMiltsova/Getty Images 

Above clockwise from top Silver beet 

will welcome a seaweed tonic at this 

time of year; Garlic should be planted 

well beneath the surface; It’s a great 

time to grow microgreens; Shallots 

require a bit of a cold snap to get them 

growing. 

Opposite from top If you have chives, 

now’s the time to share them around; 

Plan for more parsley now. 

Silver beet 

This is such a grunty green and if it were likened to 

a rugby player, it would be in the front row. It is a 

reliable, slow campaigner that produces a staple 

green all year round. 

Seeds can be sown indoors now or in 

rows directly in the garden. From sowing to 

transplanting allow four to six weeks at this time 

of year. Seedlings are readily available from all 

the shops. In the garden, allow 50cm between 

plants, but if room is tight, squash them into patio 

planters and tubs at closer spacings. 

Silver beet thrives on a regular liquid plant food 

regime. This time of year, seaweed tonics work a 

treat. Harvest the leaves whenever you choose. 

The smaller leaves are wonderful fresh in tossed 

salads. As the leaves mature, they 

cook up a treat in numerous vegetables and 

savoury dishes. 

Garlic & shallots 

Cold ground is what is required to kick garlic and 

shallots into action. Make time now to plant these 

out. Garlic needs to be planted well below the 

soil surface, like finger length deep (10cm), and 

shallots prefer to be nestled in the soil 

close to the surface. Good drainage is essential 

for both crops. Be patient it will take a number 

of weeks for the green growth to pop through 

the soil. 

Microgreens 

Put your windowsill to work by growing 

microgreens. Little equipment or space is 

required. 

Find a sunny spot on a windowsill or ledge. 

Next hunt out a shallow dish or container, like 

takeaway containers or yoghurt pottles for 

example, and poke some drainage holes into 

them and you are in business. Then all that is 

required is some seed and potting mix/seedraising 

mix. Seed blends are available in the shops 

and in all the online catalogues, or you can make 

your own. Simply blend any seeds of leafy greens 

and fast-growing herbs together to make your 

own blend. Lettuce, mizuna, kale, broccoli, pak 

choi, parsley and coriander are all good options. 

Sow seed thickly in trays, water to moisten the 

potting mix and leave to germinate. Shoots will 

appear within a week or so. Harvest when the 

leaves are finger-length or smaller. Expect to get 

two to three cuts off each container. 


SOWING TO 

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bit of imagination we’ll help you find an 

economical solution to your project. 

Soft Herbs 

Though defined as soft herbs, these herbs do not 

mean they need extra TLC. All are hardy to cold 

temperatures. 

Chives: This month is a great time to lift and 

divide existing clumps of chives. Simply ease 

the clumps out of the ground, then either tease 

sections apart or, using a sharp knife slice them 

into new pieces. 

Coriander, parsley and chervil: Seeds can be 

sown inside now where it is warmer. Once the 

seedlings are up and each plant has a few leaves 

on, harden them off outside before planting them 

out in the garden or pots. Note: Coriander does 

not enjoy having its roots messed around with, so 

you might have a better success rate sowing these 

seeds directly where you want the plants to grow. 

Top tip: Bird protection 

Over winter, food and water becomes scarce for 

birds. To prevent them from munching on young 

plants and seedlings, leave out alternative food 

and water sources for your feathered friends. 

Also, consider covering crops with netting 

to prevent them from being able to land on 

your garden. 

gardener.kiwi 

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www.kingsseeds.co.nz 

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offered to your group 

· Sign up for our email newsletter 

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Phone 0800 GERMINATE 

Postal PO Box 283, Katikati 3166 

kiwigardener 59

An heirloom 

potato 

A Canterbury family shares a 

tuberous tale that began when the 

Tiptree docked in Lyttelton, in 1864. 


We all have a family heirloom or two tucked 

away – a favourite piece of china that once 

belonged to a great grandparent and which 

is used only on Christmas day, or a tablecloth 

embroidered by a maiden aunt three generations 

before. Nicola McKenzie (née Lilley) is no 

exception; although her family heirloom is a little 

different to most. It’s a potato – the ‘Tiptree’ 

potato, to be precise – and it’s been in the family 

since 1863. 

“The potato was brought to New Zealand by 

my great grandfather, Mr John Lilley,” explains 

Nicola. “He sailed from Plymouth, England, on 

October 20, 1863, on board the ship Tiptree, and 

arrived in Lyttelton on Wednesday, January 20, 

1864. It’s said that he popped the potato into 

his pocket after he found a barrel of them on the 

wharf just before he left!” 

John Lilley settled in the Rangiora area where 

he grew the unnamed potato for his family’s use, 

and subsequently handed it down through the 

generations. One of the recipients was Nicola’s 

father, Ivan, who brought the potato with him to 

Kaikōura when he went to live there in the early 

1940s. A keen gardener, he always referred to the 

family potato as “The Lilley potato that came 

from Plymouth, England” or simply “Our Kaikōura 

Blues,” and cultivated it with help from manure 

produced on his dairy farm. 

So important was the potato to Ivan’s family 

that, in the 1990s, he had some of the seed 

‘rejuvenated’ at Lincoln University. It was at this 

time that the previously unnamed variety was 

officially christened ‘Tiptree’ after the sailing ship 

that first brought it to New Zealand. 

The ‘Tiptree’, which Nicola describes as being 

a purple-skinned, white-centred, relatively 

low-yielding new potato (five to six tubers on an 

average year and more in a good season) is now 

grown by her husband, Andrew. He sows 20 of 

the lavender-flowering seed tubers at the end of 

IMAGE Clockwise from top Kristy McKenzie, Nicola McKenzie, Nicola McKenzie, Kristy McKenzie 


September or in early October, provides them with 

plenty of compost and a healthy dose of moisture, 

and covers them with protective cloth if a late frost 

is looming. The family enjoys the waxy harvest 

over Christmas and New Year, boiling the deepeyed 

potatoes in their skins after a quick brush, 

and pan-frying any leftovers for tea. 

Andrew is careful to protect the following year’s 

seed tubers by carefully storing them in a rodentfree, 

dry box until required in early spring, at which 

stage there is always the hope that an extra-large 

potato may result (he once grew a ‘Tiptree’ that 

was more than 15cm long and 3cm wide). 

As for Nicola, she is equally keen to learn more 

about the ‘Tiptree’. Having spotted a photo of it in 

the February 2020 issue of Kiwi Gardener (where it 

was described as ‘unnamed heritage potato from 

the Kaikōura coast’) she now wonders how many 

other gardeners in the Kaikōura region also have 

the potato, and if there are Lilley relatives still 

living in the Rangiora area. If you can help her with 

that information, Kiwi Gardener would be pleased 

to pass it on. 

Opposite Clockwise from top Nicola with 

the prized ‘Tiptree’ potato; Framed 

memorabilia commemorates the 

40th anniversary of the sailing of the 

Tiptree from Plymouth, England to 

New Zealand in 1864; Nicola’s parents 

Lorna and Ivan Lilley who cultivated 

the ‘Tiptree’ in Kaikōura; The ‘Tiptree’ 

potato is typically a smaller tuber with 

a purplish skin and white, waxy flesh. 

What is potato seed rejuvenation? 

A potato tuber typically exhibits two kinds 

of age: chronological and physiological. 

‘Chronological’ refers to the literal age (in 

number of days) of a tuber, while ‘physiological’ 

refers more to ‘what’s going on inside the 

potato’ in terms of chemical changes. 

The more a tuber is stressed, the more its 

physiological ageing process is accelerated. 

Stressors can include temperature extremes, 

excesses of moisture or dryness, pest damage, 

and inadequate storage conditions. It is thought 

that adverse conditions post-harvest have 

more of an effect on physiological ageing than 

growing conditions. 

Physiological ageing affects many aspects of a 

potato’s growth including how soon buds develop 

on the tuber, how many sprouts grow from those 

buds, how the plant grows in the ground, and the 

size and number of potatoes on a shore. 

Once armed with this information, plant 

scientists (and, to an extent, the home gardener) 

can manipulate or ‘rejuvenate’ seed through 

altering various environmental factors. For 

example, if a tuber is physiologically young (in 

which case it produces fewer stems but larger 

tubers), temperature during storage can be 

increased to age the tuber. In this case, more 

stems will result, giving a greater number of 

smaller potatoes on a shore. Conversely, providing 

ideal storage conditions for a tuber, and planting 

it as soon as growing conditions allow, results in a 

decrease in the physiological age of a seed potato 

which will, in turn, generate fewer but larger 

potatoes on a shore. Sometimes, seed potatoes 

are treated with a special rejuvenating chemical to 

alter their physiological age. 

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The curious 

journey of 

celery 

It has been revered and feared and also turned into a rather interesting 

carbonated drink. There is more than meets the eye with celery. 

words Diana Noonan 


IMAGE Clockwise from left ilbusca/Getty Images, SharonDay/Getty Images, lzf/Getty Images Opposite NTCo/Getty Images 

‘Smallage’ (Apium graveolens) isn’t the most 

exciting name for a plant that may well be a 

parent of our crisp and crunchy modern-day 

celery. Yet the strongly flavoured, slightly bitter 

herb is credited with giving rise to one of our 

favourite winter soup and salad vegetables. 

Available in New Zealand under the title ‘celery 

for cutting’, Apium graveolens is a small-leafed, 

hollow-stemmed plant that can grow up to 90cm 

high in the right conditions. It is the source of our 

culinary ‘celery seed’ and is thought to have first 

grown wild in damp spots in the Mediterranean 

and other parts of Europe. 

Celery’s wild ancestors were considered 

poisonous and were reserved for cultural uses 

such as funeral rites, which may be why they 

were considered a bad omen. The Greeks and 

Romans presented their victorious athletes with 

wreaths fashioned from celery leaves and a 

similarly formal arrangement of the vegetable’s 

foliage was discovered ancient Eygptian pharaoh 

Tutankhamun’s tomb. 

Wild celeries were also used for medicinal 

purposes long before they became popular in 

the kitchen and although the vegetable may 

have been cultivated in the 1400s, it didn’t get a 

‘gardening’ mention until 1623, when the French 

botanist Olivier de Serres wrote of it in this 

capacity. Around the same time, Italy is likely to 

have begun the practice of commercially growing 

a version of smallage, with France and England 

soon following suit. 

Until the early 1700s, celery was used largely 

as flavouring, but by 1806 gardeners were aware 

of four different varieties, including those with 

large fleshy stalks, and celery was being eaten in 

France and Italy as a salad with the small stalks 

and leaves being served with olive oil. 

Around this time, the way in which celery was 

used may have gone in two directions, resulting 

in different forms being grown in specific parts 

of the world. The Chinese (who are believed 

to have had celery on their radar since the 5th 

century) appear to have grown a leafier variety 

because they valued foliage over stems, while the 

Europeans preferred the crunchiness of stems 

and paid less attention to leaf. 

Celery made its way to India in 1930, when 

it was introduced to the Punjab region by 

the Amritsar Trading Company, while Dutch 

immigrants are credited with introducing the 

vegetable to the United States. 

Today, celery is grown for its seed in China, 

Egypt, the south of France and India (with 

India supplying 62 per cent of the global 

demand, most from the Punjab region). Celery 

is popular as a fresh vegetable and also in 

frozen vegetable mixes. It is a staple on winter 

supermarket shelves. 

Smallage today 

The leaves (not the stalks, which can be 

stringy) are used, raw, in salads, while the 

French add the herb to soups and stews, 

believing it to deliver up a more concentrated 

flavour than garden varieties of celery. 

Gardeners have learned, over the centuries, 

that smallage grown in the cooler months is 

less strongly flavoured, and therefore, more 

pleasant to eat. 

Above clockwise from left When in 

bloom, it’s easy to see why the celery 

plant is a relative of parsley; Much of 

the world’s celery seed is grown in 

India; Smallage is a member of the 

celery family used for its leaf and, in 

come cultures, stems as well. 

gardener.kiwi 

kiwigardener 63

IMAGE from left Andres Victorero/Getty Images, boonsom/Getty Images Opposite YuriyS/Getty Images 

from Left Celery oil is used to flavour 

cooking, and is available in capsule 

form for use as a health supplement; 

Celery seedlings are slow-growing. 

Sow seed in early spring if you want to 

have celery for summer salads. 

Celery to the rescue 

Although celery will grow through the warmer 

months given care, it was traditionally a winter 

and spring vegetable and for good reason. Winter 

diets were once very limited in the range of 

foods they offered, with salted meat being seen 

frequently on the table while vegetables were 

almost non-existent at times. Celery provided a 

welcome green addition to the plate and was also 

viewed as a tonic to ‘cleanse the system’. 

To blanch or not to blanch 

Once, the only garden celery available was that 

which required blanching in order to reduce 

its tendency to be bitter and to develop stringy 

stems. Blanching (or shutting out the light) was 

achieved by earthing up the base of the plants as 

they grew, or by placing collars of card or paper 

around the stems. This also helped the stems 

lengthen because they grew upwards in search of 

light. While self-blanching celery (which requires 

no earthing or collaring) is now commonly grown, 

those who ‘show’ their celery in horticultural 

circles still sometimes prefer to blanch to obtain 

extra-long stems from their plants. 

Did you know? 

New Zealand’s sea celery (Apium prostratum) 

Two varieties of this low-growing herb can be 

found in coastal regions of New Zealand and also 

Australia. It has a celery-like aroma but is said to 

taste more like parsley. This wild celery is known to 

Māori as tūtae kōau. Captain Cook gathered it and 

ordered that it be boiled with wheat and peas and 

served to his sailors to ward off scurvy. 

Strange soda 

One of the most unusual fizzy drinks on the United 

States market is Dr Brown’s Cel-Ray. It arrived on 

the fizzy drink scene in 1886. At the time, celery 

was becoming so popular in the US that it could be 

found as an ingredient in celery chewing gum and 

celery soap, but it was the soda that really took off. 

Dr Brown’s celery tonic was thick and unpalatable, 

but by adding soda to it, it was made more 

attractive to those who wanted to consume it for 

its perceived health benefits. Dr Brown’s Cel-Ray 

soda is still sold today. 

Chinese celery 

Chinese celery (A. graveolens var. secalinum 

or ‘Nan Ling’) is a low-growing herb with thin, 

crunchy, hollow stems. It is used in soups, 

stews and stir-fries (never raw), and is said to 

aid digestion. 

Celery oil 

The development of the processed food industry 

heralded the arrival on the market of celery seed 

oil. Touted as a detox ingredient, it is marketed as 

a liver and kidney cleanser and a diuretic agent. It 

is also used widely as flavouring in food. 

What’s in a Name? 

If you’ve ever allowed the celery plants in your 

garden to produce their beautiful umbrella-shaped 

flowers, you’ll understand why the vegetable is 

a relative of carrot, parsnip, chervil and fennel. 

All these are members of the parsley family 

Umbelliferae and it’s the Greek word for parsley 

(selinon) that has led to the French word for celery 

(celeri), the Italian name for it (seleri) and our own 

English version (celery). 

When to sow celery 

Celery seedlings are slow-growing. If you want to 

harvest your celery in summer, sow it (outdoors in 

mild climates or in seed trays under cover in cooler 

regions) in September and October. If you are 

purchasing seedlings, try to get them in the ground 

by November. Autumn plantings of celery in March 

should ensure a harvest over the cooler months. If 

you live in very cold parts of the country, grow your 

winter celery indoors in a greenhouse. 


It’s all about the roots! 

Grow your own celery 

– The three Ps of success 

Prepare 

Choose a sunny, well-drained spot in the 

garden to create your celery bed. Dig it deeply 

(at least a spade-blade deep) and incorporate 

into the soil as much compost and well-rotted 

animal manure as you can lay hands on. 

Alternatively, blood and bone and a general 

all-purpose fertiliser will suffice; apply the 

blood and bone heavily. Celery loves lime and 

enjoys soil with a pH level of 6.5–7.5. For most 

gardeners, this means applying lime at the 

rate of 60–90 grams per square metre. Add the 

lime at least two weeks before the fertiliser as 

lime helps sweeten the soil. Plants in sweet 

soil have the best opportunity to take up the 

nutrients supplied in the fertiliser. 

Protect 

Slugs and snail enjoy munching on the 

celery’s juicy stems so bait or trap for these 

beasties. Cover young plants to protect them 

from cats and birds that will dig them up. 

Celery is prone to leaf rust but unless the 

situation is severe, the plants will usually 

hold their own. If you are concerned, snip off 

damaged leaves and discard. 

Pamper 

Celery resents any check to its growth and if 

it is stressed for any reason at all, it is quick 

to bolt or turn tough and bitter. Keep it well 

fertilised with liquid manure, growing in moist 

but not wet soil and cover it with a cloche 

if the weather turns unseasonably chilly. If 

temperatures rise unexpectedly, cover the 

plants with shade cloth during the hottest 

period of the day. Do not crowd celery, that is 

another stress it will not tolerate. 

gardener.kiwi 

Above Celery doesn’t like to be 

crowded. Give it space! 

Give your seeds the 

best start this Spring! 

Promote fast and healthy plant 

growth by using Jiffy ® peat pots, 

pellets and greenhouses. 

Jiffy ® peat pots are: 

P 100% Organic 

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P Easy to use 

P Environmentally friendly 

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healthier plants 

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www.mrfothergills.co.nz

Don’t ditch the 

watercress 

A nearby waterway is no longer required for home-grown watercress. 

WORDS & photos GILLIAN VINE 

Above Watercress (Nasturtium 

officinale) six weeks after 

transplanting. 

When I was a child, 

watercress was something 

gathered from ditches and 

the thought of growing it at 

home probably never occurred 

to anyone. 

It was not until I was an adult 

that I realised watercress could 

be grown as a vegetable and 

thought I’d give it a whirl. 

However, the instructions I 

found were so daunting that I 

scrapped the idea and forgot 

about it for years. Then, last 

spring, two factors changed 

my mind, the discovery of a 

simple way to grow it and the 

availability of seed from Kings 

Seeds. I was off! 

History 

Watercress (Nasturtium 

officinale) is a hardy aquatic 

perennial belonging to the 

brassica family. Native to Eurasia 

and North Africa, it is now found 

throughout the world. 

Introduced into New Zealand 

by European settlers, one of the 

earliest records was of it winning 

prizes at a Nelson horticultural 

show in 1844. 

Unfortunately, in some 

regions the plant soon became 

a significant pest, notably 

around Christchurch, where by 

1854 watercress was choking 

the Heathcote River. A special 

ordinance was issued in 1864 to 

try to control it, initially in the 

Avon and Heathcote Rivers, and 

later the Halswell River. 

Along with darker-leaved N. 

microphyllum, watercress now is 

found throughout New Zealand 

in ditches and shallow creeks. 

Here & now 

Watercress is high in vitamin 

C and also contains vitamin 

A. Said to help prevent colon 

cancer, reduce blood pressure 

and be useful for treating 

asthma, it is usually eaten raw 

in salads or sandwiches, but 

can be cooked. Try it in fritters 

or sautéed with garlic or ginger. 

Cooking does reduce the 


peppery taste somewhat. 

Two other types of cress – 

both introduced in the 1860s 

– can be grown at home and, 

like watercress, are members of 

the brassica family and have a 

similar mustard-like flavour. 

The most common is cress or 

moss-curled cress (Lepidium 

sativum). Long popular 

with kids, who love its fast 

germination on cotton wool 

or kitchen paper, it makes the 

best-ever sandwich filling when 

mixed with mashed hard-boiled 

egg. Common cress is native to 

the same areas as watercress, 

while the less-familiar American 

upland cress (Barbarea verna) 

is actually European in origin. 

Because it grows in almost any 

cool, damp garden, upland 

cress is easier to grow than 

watercress, but the taste is 

more pungent. 

New Zealand has about 20 

native cresses, all belonging 

to the Lepidium genus and 

known as scurvy grasses or 

peppercresses. All are now rare 

in the wild. 

Be cautious 

If you forage for watercress 

on farmland, be aware that it 

can host liver fluke (Fasciola 

hepatica), a nasty parasite that 

can infect people as well as 

sheep and cattle. Fortunately, 

cases in humans are rare, but 

watercress must be thoroughly 

washed before eating. This is 

recommended for commercially 

produced and home-grown 

watercress, too. 

Weeds common among wild 

watercress are monkey musk 

(Erythranthe guttata) and 

buttercup (Ranunculus repens). 

Monkey musk, which has yellow 

or sometimes red snapdragonlike 

flowers, is unlikely to cause 

harm – Native Americans ate 

it and used it in medicines. 

However, all parts of 

buttercups are poisonous 

and must be avoided. 

It is considered unsafe for 

pregnant women and nursing 

mothers to eat large quantities 

of watercress. 

Growing watercress 

Having discovered the simplest 

way to grow watercress was a 

two-pot system, I filled a 2.5l 

plastic pot with a mix of soil 

and homemade compost, then 

stood it in a bucket. The bucket 

was half-filled with water and 

the compost well-watered. 

Meantime, I had sown seed 

in a tray of damp mix and it 

germinated within a few 

days. When the seedlings were 

big enough to transplant, I 

weeded the pot of compost/soil 

(where did all that chickweed 

come from?!) and put fresh 

water in the bucket. Into the 

top bucket went the best 

seedlings and the remainder 

were used in a salad. 

In a month, the plants were 

big enough to nip off a few 

sprigs to try (very tasty), 

which in turn stimulated 

more growth. The water in the 

bucket kept the soil very wet, 

mimicking a boggy ditch. 

My plants, being tough 

perennials, should keep 

producing right through winter. 

The only attention they need is 

for the water in the bucket to be 

changed every week or 10 days. 

Having put growing watercress 

in the ‘too-hard basket’, I’m 

now hooked on how easy it has 

turned out to be. 

Thanks to Kings Seeds, which 

supplied seed for the writer to 

trial watercress. 

from left Watercress in a shallow 

creek; Wild watercress can be weedy, 

as this patch is. 

gardener.kiwi 

kiwigardener 67

The 

root of 

happiness 

Whether you want to improve your night vision or keep your 

teeth clean, a crop of carrots is bound to bring you joy. 

Words Marilyn Wightman 

Carrots come packaged up with all the 

right vibes. Orange in colour, they 

contain antioxidants with good levels 

of beta carotene and help maintain skin 

health with their loads of vitamins C 

and A. When chewed raw, carrots are 

regarded as a ‘toothbrush’, giving teeth 

a natural clean. There are not too many 

folk, big or small, who can turn down 

the offer of a fresh baby carrot pulled 

straight from the garden and washed for 

an enjoyable munch. 

Carrots can be grown year-round, so 

try to have a new crop up and running 

just as the current row is finishing, 

ensuring a ready supply of this versatile, 

tasty vege. 

In areas prone to carrot fly, sowing 

seed that comes packed in a tape does 

reduce the incidence of this little grub 

that loves to chew on carrots while they 

are in the ground. I find it reduces the 

need to thin the carrot row out, too. Try 

as I might, getting an even distribution 

of seeds and achieving a militarystyle, 

perfectly spaced row eludes me! 

Using seed tape ensures a good, even 

distribution with required spacing. 

Varieties come in all shapes and 

sizes in the garden centre’s seed 

selection. Because carrots have a tap 

root they are better grown in ground 

where they can develop a good size. 

The exception is the small, rotund 

varieties ideal for balcony troughs. 

A good sun supply is vital and they 

prefer space, without being crowded 

out by adjacent vegetables growing 

too close. I find rotating the carrot 

plot round the garden area helps too, 

as growing one vegetable in the same 

place can lead to soil deficiencies in 

trace minerals and encourages insect 

infestation. 

Carrots can be left in the ground until 

required. Pull it out, clean it under the 

tap and the carrot is ready to be turned 

into a wide variety of tasty food. They 

will store in the fridge for a week and 

stay relatively fresh. 

Carrots can be prepared in many ways. 

They can be used for dipping, grated and 

added to coleslaw and vegetable salads, 

sliced and boiled, added to stir-fry, 

roasted or used in soup. The ubiquitous 

carrot cake is hard to beat. 

What follows are three recipes to try. 

The first is a vegetarian main meal loaf, 

in which oil can be used instead of butter 

for a vegan alternative. The no-fuss, selfcooking 

vegetable option can be used 

as a side dish and the carrot cake is, of 

course, the sweet dessert treat. 


Carrot loaf 

This loaf can be served hot or cold. If preferred, 

a teaspoon of curry powder can be added when 

mixing for extra flavour. 

Ingredients 

• 1 tin beans or 1½ cups cooked beans 

• 1 onion, finely diced 

• 1 large carrot, grated 

• 2 Tbsp parsley, chopped 

• 2 tsp sage/thyme/marjoram, chopped 

• salt & pepper to taste 

• 75g butter 

• ¼ cup flour 

• 3 slices fresh bread 

• 3 hard-boiled eggs 

• 2 Tbsp sesame seeds 

Method 

1. Drain the beans and retain ½ cup of the liquid 

from the tin or cooking pot. 

2. Sauté the onion, carrot and fresh herbs in the 

butter for about five minutes in a pan. 

3. Stir through the flour and add the retained liquid. 

Heat this for a further two minutes. 

4. Blend the bread to make fresh breadcrumbs and 

combine with the vegetable mix and mashed 

beans in a large bowl. 

5. Tip half into a loaf tin and lay the shelled eggs 

(whole) lengthwise along the mix. 

6. Tip the remainder of the mix to cover the eggs, 

sprinkle over sesame seeds and cook in a 180°C 

oven for about 45 minutes until set and browned. 

IMAGE by ale_flamy/Getty Images Opposite Anna Kurzaeva/Getty Images 

gardener.kiwi 

kiwigardener 69

Carrot cake 

Ingredients 

• 2 cups flour 

• 1 cup coconut 

• 1 cup raw sugar 

• 1½ cups carrot, grated 

• 2 tsp baking powder 

• ½ tsp ground cloves 

• 1 tsp allspice 

• 1 cup oil 

• 1 tsp vanilla essence 

• ½ tsp baking soda 

• ½ cup milk 

Method 

1. Heat milk in the microwave for 40 

seconds on high, then stir through 

baking soda and set aside. 

2. Mix all other dry ingredients together in 

a bowl. 

3. Stir in oil and vanilla essence, adding 

the milk mix at the same time. 

4. When well combined, tip into a greased 

tin and bake at 180°C for 40 to 50 

minutes. 

5. Serve plain or top with lemon icing. 

IMAGE BRETT STEVENS/Getty Images Opposite Kateryna Kyslyak /Getty Images 


Baked grated carrots 

Ingredients 

• 3 cups carrots, grated 

• 3 Tbsp butter or oil 

• salt & pepper to taste 

• 2 tsp basil (summer) 

or 2 tsp cut chervil (winter) 

Method 

1. Place the grated carrot into a lidded 

casserole dish, fitting the lid on 

closely so the carrots cook in their 

own juice. 

2. Bake at 160°C for 30 to 40 minutes. 

3. Remove lid and stir through the 

butter and seasonings, and serve. 

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kiwigardener 71

Time For 

LEEKS 

Comfort food is the order of the day as winter kicks up a gear. 

Fortunately, the leek harvest is on now and you get to try this 

scrumptious galette recipe. 

Words Kristina Jensen 

Despite the fact that I spend much of my 

time living on a boat with my husband, who 

informs me leeks are not appreciated in a boat 

(lamest Dad joke ever according to the kids), I 

am so happy leek season is upon us. Leeks are 

so much gentler on my digestive system than 

their relatives garlic and onions, plus they have 

a delicate sweetness when cooked that is quite 

satisfying. My youngest son is the world’s biggest 

fan of leek and potato soup and this delicious 

galette, so leeks take centre stage in our kitchen 

once winter begins to rear its chilly head. 

Baked, covered in white sauce or as the base of 

any good wholesome soup or stew, leeks are one 

of the most versatile winter vegetables. So, you 

would think that I would be an excellent grower 

of leeks, considering my passion for growing my 

own food. Sadly, leeks and I have tried our best, 

but we don’t seem to get along. No matter what I 

do, they stay piddly and small. They are a bit like 

carrots for me: people say, “Ah, just chuck ’em in 

the ground and leave them alone.” 

Well, so far it’s been a few or no carrots, and 

very small leeks. Given the quality and amount 

of compost I put into my garden, I know it’s not 

a nutrient problem. 

My friend Ali’s suggested I try the ‘broomstick 

method’, which involves poking a broomsticklike 

object into the ground, dropping the 

young leek plant into the resulting hole and 

walking away. No tamping down the soil or 

filling in the hole: simply leave the leek to 

get on with filling said hole, expanding as 

it grows. 

With this method my leeks grew up and up, 

but never quite got the expansion bit and 

though we harvested and ate them, little pencils 

that they were, I couldn’t help comparing my 

puny little fellows with Ali’s giants. 

So, I’ll just stick with what I know and let the 

leek growers of New Zealand do what they do 

best; grow leeks for me to make this to-die-for 

leek galette, the perfect filler for a teenager’s 

tummy on a cold winter’s day! 


How to wash leeks 

To remove soil trapped 

between leek leaves, where the 

green part meets the white, 

trim off the base of the leek 

and cut away the tougher 

uppermost part of the leaves. 

Slit the leek in half lengthways 

and rinse well under running 

water, pulling back the layers 

so any dirt is removed. 

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IMAGE Kristina Jensen Opposite fermate/Getty Images 

Leek & bacon galette 

Ingredients 

• 2 cups flour 

• ½ tsp baking powder 

• ½ tsp salt 

• 100g cold butter, grated 

• ½ cup sour cream 

• water to mix 

Filling 

• 2 leeks, washed, halved and 

sliced thinly 

• 2 cloves garlic, minced 

• 3 Tbsp butter 

• 100g bacon, rind removed and 

chopped 

• ¾ cup tasty cheese 

• 2 Tbsp parmesan cheese 

• fresh black pepper and salt 

• 1 egg, lightly beaten 

Method 

To make dough: 

1. Rub the sour cream and grated 

butter into the flour, baking 

powder and salt mix until 

crumbly. Add just enough water 

to make a workable dough. 

2. Knead it a bit in the bowl, then 

wrap in cling film and pop into 

gardener.kiwi 

the fridge while you make 

the filling. 

To make filling: 

1. Preheat oven to 200°C. 

2. Fry the leeks and garlic in 

2 Tbsp of the butter until slightly 

caramelised, scrape out of the 

pan into a bowl. 

3. In the pan add the remaining 

tablespoon of butter and bacon. 

Fry until cooked but not crispy. 

4. Remove from heat, mix into 

the leeks and garlic and allow 

to cool. 

5. Roll or press the dough out into 

a circle on a lightly floured piece 

of baking paper that fits on an 

oven tray. 

6. Leave a 6–7cm rim of dough clear 

on the outer edge, and spread 

the filling evenly over the centre. 

7. Sprinkle it with cheese mix, salt 

and pepper. 

8. Beat the egg and brush the 

exposed rim with the beaten egg. 

9. Fold it over onto the filling and 

brush the outside with the egg. 

10. Slide the tray carefully into the 

oven to bake for 30 minutes or 

until golden brown. 

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kiwigardener 73

cheap & cheerful 

Planning to avoid 

panic planting 

Do you really need six rows of broccoli and new seeds every season? 

Taking time to plan your garden can save you money in the long run. 



IMAGE MachineHeadz/Getty Images Opposite Worledit/Getty Images 

If there’s one thing we’ve all learnt over the 

past months, it’s that panic buying doesn’t 

do anyone any good. And it’s the same when it 

comes to gardening. Panic buying doesn’t work. 

That’s because, when you’re panicking, you’re 

not planning. Planning is what enables every 

gardener, and especially one who is growing 

on a shoestring, to come up with a useful and 

satisfying, dollar-saving harvest. So let’s talk 

about how not to panic-garden, from seed buying 

to sowing and sowing to growing. 

Check your stocks 

As the excitement of spring sowing begins to 

mount, resist the urge to immediately head for 

the garden centre. Take stock of the seeds you 

already have on hand. Check the dates on the 

seed packets and if it seems the seed is still 

viable, sow a tiny pinch in a pot now to see if you 

do actually need to buy fresh stock. 

Be realistic 

Just because you know how to grow a particular 

vegetable or that it is easy to grow and produces 

a bumper crop is no reason to go overboard 

planting it. After all, do you actually want two 

square metres of silver beet or rhubarb? Will the 

kids really chew their way through four rows of 

radishes and a bed of broccoli? Or would they 

(and you) be happier with a dozen delicious corn 

cobs and a patch of crispy lettuce? 

Space & time 

How much time and space do you actually 

have for storing excess harvest? If your idea of 

fun is cooking up a cauldron of tomato puree 

late on Sunday night and making space for it 

in the freezer, by all means sow your packet of 

‘Moneymaker’ tomatoes. But if you’d rather enjoy 

the fun of growing a handful of different tomato 

varieties, head to the nursery for a punnet of 

mixed heritage seedlings. Even better, if you’d like 

to completely skip the hassle of preserving, eat 

seasonally. 

However you do it, being realistic will result in 

less money wasted, more garden space to grow 

what you want and plenty of free time to enjoy 

your garden rather than resent it. 

Do the sums 

As with most things, planning makes perfect and 

can save you money. So get out your calculator 

and really nut out how much of each vegetable 

you actually need to cater for you and your 

family. Here’s an example of how to do it. 

Let’s say you use potatoes in four meals a 

week and each time you use them, you require a 

kilo. That comes to 4 (meals) x 52 (weeks in the 

year) x 1 (kilo of potatoes) = 208 kilos. In other 

words, you’ll need to grow 208 kilos of potatoes 

if you want to supply your family’s year-long 

requirements. At an approximate guess, we 

can expect around 1.5kg of potatoes per plant, 

you’ll need to sow 138 potatoes to produce the 

required harvest. 

It takes a lot of garden space to sow 138 

potatoes, but if you’re daunted by the thought 

(and few wouldn’t be) there’s an easy way to 

reach a budget compromise. Instead of growing 

all the potatoes your family eats in a year, grow 

only those you need to supply you when spuds 

are most expensive in the supermarket, like 

Above Grow what you know will be 

most costly at the supermarket. 

Opposite Sow a pinch of seeds to see if 

they will still germinate. 

gardener.kiwi 

kiwigardener 75


IMAGE Clockwise from top urbancow/Getty Images, PeopleImages/Getty Images, Animaflora/Getty Images, dejankrsmanovic/Getty Images

Christmas and early summer. If you opt for this 

plan, you cut down considerably the space 

required in your garden to grow the potatoes 

and you are still free to purchase your winter 

store spuds when they are cheaper at the end 

of summer. 

This kind of planning really saves money. You 

can check out the many helpful websites that 

calculate expected garden yields for you. Better 

still, start keeping your own garden diary to help 

you understand what your harvest per plant 

actually is so you can tailor planting to your own 

requirements. 

Let go & let grow 

Despite our best intentions, we usually sow 

more seeds than are actually necessary. That’s 

not a crime in itself, but when you decide you 

can’t part with the resulting seedlings because 

you have an emotional attachment to them and 

have to transplant the lot into your garden, you 

really are entering a world of false economy. For 

a start, you’ll be growing far more of one type 

of crop than you can hope to use and secondly, 

your seedlings will take up garden space that is 

needed for something more important. So just 

because the 30 broccoli seedlings you’ve raised 

have become like children to you, the very best 

thing you can do with the surplus is to give them 

to another gardener, donate them to a school 

fair, or sell them. And if none of those options 

work for you, turn your extras into compost. 

Net returns 

Few gardeners want to be told to slow up on 

buying seeds and plants because it seems, at 

first glance, this is what growing things is all 

about. But the serious budget gardener knows 

that there are far more important things to 

spend their pennies on, netting and slug bait 

are two of them. You can sow and grow to your 

heart’s content but if you don’t protect what 

you put in the garden, the dollars go flying 

out the window. Whatever you sow or plant 

must be protected from birds, bugs, butterflies 

and domestic animals. Safely under a net, 

your young seedlings have little to stop them 

reaching their potential. Netting is cheap, unless 

you have a secret source such as an orchardist 

or vintner who has a reel of it which they no 

longer require, so buy a quality product such as 

heavy gauge strawberry netting that is less likely 

to tear or disintegrate in the sun. And when your 

plants are past the stage where they need to be 

covered, stow it away carefully in a sack and pop 

it in a shed out of the weather and the UV. 

Opposite clockwise from top Few things 

are more heady than a rack of seeds, 

but show restraint; Save time and 

money by growing what they like to 

eat; Your garden’s best friend is a roll 

of netting; If you can’t find space to 

store the harvest, cut back on what 

you grow. 

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gardener.kiwi 

kiwigardener 77

Fowl fun 

Even chickens can find life a little dull sometimes. So try these tips 

to keep your chicken, and yourself, thoroughly entertained. 

Words Wendy Maddison 


IMAGE Sebastian Arning Getty Images Opposite NikonShutterman/Getty Images 

There is nothing funnier than watching your 

chickens playing in the garden, fighting over 

bugs and harassing the cat. It therefore seems only 

fair that we should provide them with some fun 

and variety, too, especially in the winter months 

when bugs are scarce and garden activities can be 

a bit ho-hum. 

Preventing chickens from becoming 

disinterested is important for their health and 

wellbeing because a bored chicken can start 

pecking at itself, other chickens, or eggs. Worse 

still, a lack of stimulation can lead to serious 

bullying behaviour within your flock. 

But before you think installing a television in 

your chook house will do the trick, try to think 

more in line with the natural behaviours your 

chickens have in the pursuit of food: pecking, 

foraging, digging. Oh, and a bit of perching in a 

quiet moment. But mostly it’s all about food. 

All you need to do is rev up your imagination, 

pick out your chickens’ favourite foods, and, most 

importantly, have fun. 

Punchy Piñatas 

I’m not suggesting you hang a bag of lollies for 

your chooks and pass them a club to break it open. 

Try instead to extend this idea to chicken-friendly 

food and let your chicken have a good peck with 

their beaks. Making your chickens work a bit for 

their food helps to engage their natural foraging 

instincts and a swinging tetherball of food cannot 

fail to entertain them. 

The simplest chicken piñata can be made 

with some strong string and a head of lettuce or 

cabbage. A more complex version could involve 

a pine cone smeared in peanut butter and rolled 

in seeds. 

Other alternative foods to hang include French 

bread, cucumber, millet sprays, corn cobs, or even 

a barbecue grill basket filled with greens. 

How about a bit of baking? Whip up a basic 

cookie batter (without the sugar) and add peanut 

butter, seeds and grains, then bake cookies with 

holes in the middle to make them easy to tie up. 

Alternatively, you can utilise your used cooking 

grease in a 1:1 ratio with seeds and peanut butter, 

chuck it in a used milk or juice carton and chill it to 

create some yummy suet. If you don’t have a suet 

cage, a sturdy mesh bag will do instead. Limit this 

to the winter as suet can quickly go rancid in the 

summer heat. 

Perches with panache 

Don’t underestimate the interest generated by 

a new perch. Chickens naturally like to perch up 

higher, even in trees if they can. The provision of a 

new and interesting perch is sure to please. 

A simple stump, sturdy branch or a swing will 

provide your birds with some extra exercise and a 

happy place to observe the world from. 

Don’t underrate the joy of a good log either. 

This can be shifted now and then to expose bugs 

underneath. If the log has nooks and crannies, 

consider filling them with goodies such as banana, 

chunky peanut butter, cooked rice and oatmeal. 

Your chickens will love digging for treats. 

Toy time 

Chickens love toys as much as the next kid. Many 

a soft, lightweight ball has been seen bouncing 

around a chook house in a harmless game of 

Fowl Football. 

Inquisitive chickens might also enjoy a windup 

or walking toy. Solitary chickens can find 

Above The right sort of perch will 

encourage your chickens to seek a 

new view of the world. 

gardener.kiwi 

kiwigardener 79


IMAGE Clockwise from top left Warren_Price/Getty Images, Andrius Aleksandravicius/Getty Images, Lorianne Ende /Getty Images, tatyana_tomsickova/Getty Images 

vandervelden/Getty Images, Catherine Delahaye/Getty Images

clockwise from top left Make your chickens work for their 

food with a seed-coated pine cone; Logs can be moved to 

reveal tasty bugs; Introduce your chickens to other pets – 

though avoid aggressive ones!; A human relationship that 

starts young will make chickens cuddlier later; Exciting 

perches come in many different forms; Time spent with 

your chicken is beneficial to both parties. 

comfort in a child-safe mirror. Small children’s 

playground pieces can provide stimulation, 

especially with a few treats dotted around them. 

And don’t forget the plethora of toys available 

for parrots that could provide fun in the hen 

house too. 

Liven it up 

Sometimes all it takes to change things is simply 

something a bit different. A new pine branch, 

leaves, compost or a pile of straw can provide 

hours of entertainment. If you are doing a bit of 

weeding, throw any safe weeds into the chicken 

run. They’ll pick them over for bugs you had no 

idea were there. The same goes for pulling out old 

plants; let them pick over the dirt and roots. 

If there is bedding or straw about, create a game 

of hide and seek by sprinkling it with sprouts, 

grains, berries, and other small treats so that they 

have to scratch around a bit for food. 

If you have a suitable flat area like a patio, get 

your girls chasing after rolling peas or grapes. Stale 

buns will roll too, providing a fun game of fetch – 

just don’t expect them to bring anything back! 

Even a cut-open watermelon gives variety and 

fun, especially since it rocks while they pick out 

the flesh. Or watch your girls go to town on a fresh 

fish carcass or the remnant meat off last night’s 

roast bone. 

Another simple idea is to provide their scratch 

feed (pellets, corn, wheat) in a treat shaker. Put 

holes in a plastic bottle, fill with feed, and replace 

the lid. Once they figure out that rolling the bottle 

releases food then they will never look back. 

Spending time 

Don’t forget that a wonderful way of entertaining 

your chickens and yourself is to hang out with 

them. Chickens handled when young will be more 

comfortable with being touched or cuddled, but 

even the shiest chicken can follow you around 

the garden. 

Other pets and animals can also provide 

company and interest, although perhaps not the 

neighbour’s boisterous dog. 

Whatever way you choose to spice up your 

chicken’s day, just think how much happier 

and healthier they will be. Just like us, 

variety and fun can make life worthwhile and 

enjoyable. Oh, and peanut butter, too. Let’s 

face it, peanut butter makes the world go 

around, whether you are a child or a chicken. 

gardener.kiwi 

kiwigardener 81

kids ’n’ dirt 

Colourful 

upcycled 

bird feeders 

With winter an especially tough time for birds to find 

naturally occurring food, these bird feeders will 

be a real treat. 

Words & Photos Klaudia Krupa 

our Colours 

• Resene Big Bang 

• Resene Energy Yellow 

• Resene Fringy Flower 

• Resene Guggenheim 

• Resene Keppel 


1. 

2. 

3. 

4. 

5. 

6. 

7. 

8. 

9. 

10. 

11. 

12. 

Vertical 

feeder 

You will need 

• Lidded plastic bottle, 

tennis ball tube, juice 

carton or similar 

• Resene Waterborne 

Smooth Surface Sealer 

• Paint 

• Paintbrush 

• Masking tape 

(optional) 

• 2 skewers 

• Scissors 

• Drawing pin 

• String 

• Bird seed 

• Funnel 

Step One 

Remove all the stickers and 

make sure your container is 

clean and dry. For this project, 

we will use the plastic bottle 

option. 

Step Two 

Use a drawing pin to poke a 

small hole into the end of the 

plastic bottle, a few centimetres 

up from the bottom, as shown. 

Now make an identical hole on 

the opposite side to first one. 

Repeat the process 10cm higher, 

but not directly above the first 

set. These holes will be where 

you add your perches. 

Step three 

Slide a skewer through the 

holes, making sure they fit 

snugly. If the holes are too big, 

the sticks will wiggle around 

too much and make the birds 

nervous. Cut the skewers 

shorter if the bottle you’re using 

is narrow. 

Step Four 

Using the drawing pin, poke a 

small hole a few centimetres 

above each perch. Use the tip 

of the scissors to make it a bit 

bigger. These will be the feeding 

holes, so should be small enough 

for the bird seed not to fall out, 

but big enough for the birds to 

feed through. 

Step Five 

Remove the skewers and use 

tape to mark out a pattern. Try 

angles, solid blocks or stripes. 

(Skip this step if you want to 

paint freehand.) 

Step Six 

Prime your bottle using Resene 

Waterborne Smooth Surface 

Sealer and allow to dry. 

Step Seven 

Add pops of colour to your 

feeder! Leave some of the plastic 

clear so that you can see when it 

needs refilling. 

Step Eight 

Wait until the paint is completely 

dry and then slowly remove 

your tape. 

Step NinE 

Slide the skewer perches back 

into position. 

Step TEN 

Poke a hole through the lid, 

thread the string through and 

then tie a knot, as shown. Create 

a loop on the other end, this is 

how your bird feeder will hang so 

make sure it’s the right length for 

where you will be hanging it. 

Step ELEVEN 

Carefully fill your feeder with 

bird seed, using a funnel, and 

screw on the lid. 

Step TWELVE 

Hang your new feeder 

somewhere that is safe and easy 

for the birds to access it. We’d 

love to see your creations! 

gardener.kiwi 

kiwigardener 83

1. 

4. 

2. 

Another idea 

Make your own bird 

seed for some extra fun! 

Have a look online for 

what birds in your area 

like to eat. 

3. 

5. 

6. 7. 

Top tip 

It could take a few days 

for birds to notice the new 

feeder and get used to it. To 

improve your chances of it 

being found, hang it out of 

harm’s way and somewhere 

noticeable to birds flying past. 

8. 

Horizontal 

feeder 

You will need 

• Empty tin can, jar 

or similar 

• Resene GP Metal 

Primer 

• Paint 


• Stick (to use as perch) 

• Drill 

• Scissors 

• String 

• Hot glue gun 

• Bird seed 

• String 

• Bird seed 

Step One 

Remove any labels and wash 

your container. If you are using a 

tin can, like us, make sure there 

are no sharp edges that could 

hurt the birds. 

Step Two 

Prime your tin using Resene GP 

Metal Primer and let dry. 

Step THREE 

Add a splash of colour! If you 

are applying multiple coats or 

colours, make sure you wait for 

each layer to dry properly before 

adding the next one. 

Step Four 

Once the paint is dry, lie the 

can down on its side and ask a 

grown-up to drill some holes in 

the top, in line with each other. 

Step Five 

Cut some string and thread each 

end through the new holes, then 

tie a knot. This is what you will 

use to hang the bird feeder 

so make sure it’s the right length. 

Step Six 

Use the hot glue gun to carefully 

glue the stick to the inside of the 

can, on the opposite side to the 

string, as shown. This will be the 

perch for the birds, so make sure 

it sticks out far enough for them 

to sit on. 

Step Seven 

Once the glue is dry it’s time to 

fill your bird feeder with food. 

Don’t fill to the top as the feeder 

will hang on its side. 

Step Eight 

Find a spot that’s visible from 

inside so you can watch the birds 

enjoy their new food while you 

keep warm. Make sure not to 

hang it too close to a window as 

birds cannot see glass and you 

don’t want any collisions. Hang 

your new feeder on a slight angle 

so the food doesn’t tip out. 

Painting tips 

Try an ombre painting effect 

– like the fading hues you 

see during sunrise. Simply 

choose your favourite 

Resene testpot colour and 

paint a stripe. Add a little 

white from a Resene white 

testpot and paint the next 

stripe. Add more white 

for each stripe. Your main 

colour will get lighter and 

lighter as you go. 

If you’d like your bird 

feeder to blend into the 

bush, create a camouflage 

effect by using three or four 

testpots in different shade 

of green. 

brought to you by 


DIY 

Plant 

shelves 

This simple outdoor shelving unit 

can be made in a matter of hours, 

and makes an ideal display stand for 

smaller-growing plants. 

brought to you by 

Words & Photos Mark Rayner 

gardener.kiwi 

kiwigardener 85

You will need 

• 3 x 1.2m fence palings 

• 6 x concrete blocks 

• Electric sander or 

coarse sandpaper 

• Hand brush 

• Paint stirrers 


• Resene Concrete 

Primer 

• Resene Lustacryl 

tinted to Resene 

Permanent Green 

• Resene Quick Dry 

1. 

2. 

3. 

Here’s another idea 

To accommodate taller 

potted plants, use larger 

concrete blocks. 

4. 5. 

Step One 

Sand the fence palings to 

smooth any rough areas, and 

then brush off any sanding 

residue with a hand brush. 

Step Two 

Carefully stir the Resene 

Quick Dry. 

Step Three 

Apply one coat of Resene Quick 

Dry to each of the fence palings 

and allow to dry. 

Step Four 


Concrete Primer. 

Step Five 

Apply one coat of Resene 

Concrete Primer to each of 

the concrete blocks and allow 

to dry. 

Step Six 


Lustacryl tinted to Resene 

Permanent Green. 


6. 

To get the look 

Mark painted the 

background stucco wall 

with Resene AquaShield 

tinted to Resene Pearl 

Lusta. 

7. 

8. 

Handy hint 

For added security (and 

permanence) attach the 

shelves to the concrete 

blocks with exterior 

construction glue. 

Step Seven 

Apply two coats of Resene 


Permanent Green to each of the 

concrete blocks, allowing two 

hours to dry. 

Step Eight 

Apply two coats of Resene 


Permanent Green to each of 

the fence palings, allowing two 

hours to dry, and then simply 

stack the fence palings on to the 

blocks to form the shelves. 

For more on paints 

and stains phone 

0800 Resene 

(0800 737 363) or visit 

your Resene ColorShop 

or www.resene.co.nz 

gardener.kiwi 

kiwigardener 87

plant doctor 

Andrew Maloy answers your questions. 

Prickly gem 

Question Can you identify this 

horrible prickly shrub we came 

across last summer on a trip 

to the amazing Clay Cliffs near 

Omarama in Otago? Is it 

a weed? 

R. Brown, Wellington 

Answer This is matagouri, 

Discaria toumatou, a plant 

unique to New Zealand though 

there are related species in 

Australia, Tasmania and South 

America. It can reach several 

metres high and is found in 

many parts of the country south 

of the Waikato River, but much 

more so in tussock grassland 

areas of the South Island and in 

sandy or gravelly, dry river beds. 

In the North Island it’s almost 

an endangered plant, in the 

South Island it’s often thought 

of as a nuisance weed, but is 

a protected plant under the 

Resource Management Act. 

Matagouri’s vicious 

appearance belies its true 

nature, it really is an interesting 

plant and plays an important 

role in the ecology of the areas 

in which it grows. It’s relatively 

slow-growing; there are reports 

of specimens older than 100 

years in some places. 

We know legumes, such as 

clover, peas and beans, are 

“nitrogen-fixing” plants, but 

there are also non-legumes with 

similar attributes, including 

matagouri. Its roots have a 

symbiotic relationship with 

certain soil bacteria that take 

in nitrogen from the air and 

convert into a form that can 

be absorbed by the plant, 

allowing it to survive and grow 

in low-nutrient soils, as well as 

providing a more favourable 

habitat for other plant species 

to become established. 

Matagouri leaves are small, 

leathery, grow close to the base 

of vicious 5cm-long thorns and 

are more visible in spring or in 

shaded parts of the plant. In full 

bright sun, they can appear to 

be almost leafless. Small, white 

flowers appear from October to 

January and are said to have 

nectar that makes very good 

honey. The fruit containing seed 

is a rounded berry. 

The Otago Daily Times (ODT) 

published a story in its 23 April 

2020 issue, which describes 

the importance of matagouri 

berries to the native kākāriki, 

orange-fronted parakeet, 

whose population is nationally 

endangered. About the size of 

a budgie, kākāriki were once 

spread throughout the country, 

but are now the rarest parakeet 

and forest bird in the country. 

Only 300–500 birds survive 

today, in beech forests and 

valleys around the Arthur’s Pass 

National Park and Lake Sumner 

Forest Park in Canterbury and 

some that have been released 

on four offshore islands. They 

feed mostly on seeds and fruits 

at the tops of tall trees in the 

beech forests, but also come 

down to lower vegetation, such 

as matagouri scrublands, and 

to streams where they drink 

and bathe. 

Threats to kākāriki are the 

usual culprits, predators like 

stoats, rats, possums and cats, 

along with habitat destruction 

by people, deer, goats and 

stock. Despite these challenges 

there is some good news. In 

the ODT article, Department 

of Conservation monitoring 

Matagouri, with orange hips of wild sweet rose and blue echium flowers in the 

background. 

team leader Megan Farley 

says in the 12 years that she’s 

been involved in monitoring 

kākāriki, the 2019–20 season 

is the best she has seen, when 

around 100 kākāriki, many of 

them unbanded, were seen 

feasting on matagouri seeds. 

The number of unbanded birds 

indicates kākāriki have enjoyed 

a very successful breeding 

season, which is put down to 

extensive predator control in 

the core breeding area, plus 

the matagouri masting. 

Masting is when weather 

conditions are such that 

native forests flower heavily 

and produce bumper crops of 

berries and seeds. It would be 

interesting to see how kākāriki 

avoid those vicious thorns to 

feast on the berries. 

Despite legal protection, 

matagouri in some areas is 

still threatened, possums 

have been known to ring 

bark trees in spring to feed 

on the sweet sap, rats can 

cause similar damage, and 

weeds like gorse, broom and 

sweet briar (Rosa rubiginosa) 

compete aggressively for the 

same habitat. So, though at 

first glance it may look like 

a ‘horrible prickly shrub’, 

matagouri is a plant to 

be treasured. 


Bleach it? 

Question I’ve heard you can kill 

agapanthus by spraying it with 

a strong solution of bleach. Will 

this work and, if so, what’s the 

best dilution rate to use? 

W. O’Grady, Auckland 

Answer Common household 

bleach can damage the foliage 

of most plants, depending on 

how much it’s diluted with 

water. However, any damage 

it might do to agapanthus 

is unlikely to completely kill 

the rhizome, the base of the 

stem, which extends below 

the ground. I’ve tried various 

methods to control agapanthus, 

from physically digging the 

blighters out to different 

herbicide sprays, and have 

come to the conclusion that, 

in situations where it’s not 

practicable to dig them out, the 

most effective way is the cut 

and paste method. This involves 

cutting them off close to the 

ground to expose the top of the 

rhizome and the easiest way 

I’ve found to do this is using a 

flax knife, a great tool costing 

around $12–$15 from garden 

centres or online. It has a sharp, 

serrated, sickle-shaped blade 

on a wooden handle, which, 

once you get the hang of it, will 

easily saw through any tough 

non-woody plant material, 

including flax leaves and tough 

old flower spikes, and it slices 

through agapanthus like a hot 

knife through butter. I prefer the 

longer-handled (15cm) model, 

as it’s easier on my back. You 

can leave the cut-off tops lying 

on the ground to dry out or 

put them in the compost or, 

if there’s part of the rhizome 

still attached, put them in the 

rubbish bin to go to landfill. 

Within minutes of removing the 

top, apply herbicide gel to the 

exposed cut on the rhizome. 

There are several different 

herbicide gels on the market 

these days and some are more 

effective at controlling certain 

weeds and in certain conditions 

than others, so you need to 

make sure to get the right one. 

For example, I use Cut’n’Paste 

MetGel to control agapanthus 

and some other weeds such as 

privet, but it does not work on 

Solanaceae plants, like woolly 

nightshade. So, when shopping 

for herbicide gel, read the label 

carefully to make sure you 

buy the one best suited for the 

weed you want to control, and 

make sure to follow the label 

recommendations. 

AWARAKAU 

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Looking for somewhere 

special for a relaxing getaway? 

Chatham Island’s Awarakau Lodge is just 

8km from Waitangi, with great coastal 

views from our rooms and dining area, 

and the spectacular shoreline just a 

short walk away. We specialise in small 

group package tours and independent 

travellers, with expert local guides 

covering the island’s culture, history and 

conservation – we’ve been on the island 

for six generations so we know our way 

around. So check out our great seven 

night holiday packages and competitive 

rates and come on over. 

We are a 

family owned 

and operated 

business 

Hosts Greg and Rosemarie 

Ph: 0064 3 3050176 

Email: 

enquiries@awarakau-lodge.nz 

Flax knife with cut-back agapanthus rhizomes. 

For free advice: 

Send your letters, photos, name and address to: Plant 

Doctor, Kiwi Gardener, PO Box 1467, Christchurch 8140, 

or email: editor@gardener.kiwi 

gardener.kiwi 

www.awarakau-lodge.nz 

kiwigardener 89

Things I 

wish I’d 

known 

sooner 

Shannon Hunt shares wisdom 

from green-fingered souls around 

the country. 

From: Freya, Paeroa 

NIP IT LOWER 

I have a Griselinia littoralis seedling hedge I planted about a month ago that grows 

3m high, but I didn’t realise the trees would grow that tall until after I had planted 

the hedge. I talked to my neighbour about it as I thought I might have to pull the 

plants out and put in a shorter variety, but he said all I have to do is prune the 

hedge when it gets to the height I want and keep doing so regularly. That was so 

good to hear. 

From: Willy, Whakatū 

MAD ABOUT COSMOS 

I have found that cosmos are one of the prettiest and easiest flowers to grow from 

seed in my garden. However, when I first planted them I was not aware of how easily 

they reseed in autumn. I have learned that I need to be careful where I place the old 

flower heads after I pull them out to make way for other flowers. The deadheads 

scattered seeds everywhere and hundreds of seedlings popped up two weeks later 

on my gravel pathway, just where I didn’t want anything to grow. 

From: Lou, Lower Hutt 

ICE CREAM BUTTERFLIES 

I read in the June edition of Kiwi Gardener a 

recommendation to cut out butterfly shapes 

from empty ice-cream containers and stick them 

on the top of long sticks in your brassica garden, 

so they sit just above the plants. I heard on the 

grapevine that a man in Kaikōura has done 

this before and discovered his white butterfly 

problems disappeared. As a greenie, I wish I had 

discovered this trick earlier and I’m definitely 

going to give it a go. 

From: Sharon, Hastings 

FRUIT BY ANOTHER NAME 

Who knew? When Dame Kiri Te Kanawa was 

interviewed on television in April, during the 

Covid-19 lockdown, she mentioned she was 

eating Sharon fruit picked from a tree growing 

in the back garden. Not knowing what they 

were, I went online and discovered they are a 

variety of persimmon. 

From: David & Maria, Stortford Lodge 

TIBOUCHINA BLUES 

We were looking forward to our young Tibouchina bush flowering for the first 

time last March, but when it finally did it seemed as though something was eating 

each flower as it emerged, leaving only the stamens. We thought it must be bugs, 

butterflies or birds so we put a frame with bird netting over the bush and sprayed 

the flowers with pyrethrum, but still the flower petals disappeared each day. I asked 

several gardening experts who advised me that these bushes don’t usually get eaten 

by anything so we were none the wiser. 

Then we noticed lots of new blue petals on the lawn each day and put two and two 

together. It was the wind blowing the petals off as they emerged. Once the windy 

weather stopped, the flowers could finally hold on to their petals. 

Wind shield 

Tibouchina is best planted where 

it won’t battle the wind. If that’s 

not possible place a wind shield 

around it, especially while the bush 

is young. Strong winds can break off 

the brittle young branches of this 

pretty bush as well as blowing the 

flower petals off. 

IMAGE From top Robin Smith/Getty Images Opposite from top jfairone/Getty Images, Richard Clark/Getty Images 


Edible flowers 

The sweet violet, Viola odorata, is an edible perennial. Pop a pretty flower 

on top of a blob of whipped cream on your favourite piece of cake or 

pudding or crystallise some in sugar to use on those high tea treats. These 

gorgeous, old-fashioned plants do self-seed and their rhizomes will spread 

underground over time so they may become a bit of a nuisance if they are 

not controlled. If you don’t have the room to let them grow where they will, 

grow them in a container garden and in pots where they get plenty of shade 

over spring and summer and keep the media moist, not wet. 

From: Suzette, Richmond 

GROWING VIOLETS 

One of my favourite flowers is the little, deep-purple, highly fragrant violet – the one 

with the heart-shaped leaves that makes a great ground cover. I grew some in my 

own garden by pulling up rooted stems from a healthy plant in my sister-in-law’s 

garden. However, this wasn’t as successful as I had hoped because, not knowing 

any better, I placed it in full sun in rough, gravelly soil. The leaves slowly turned a 

light green and became very veiny. At the end of last summer, I carefully dug it up 

and moved it to an area where the soil was much better, under a tree that loses its 

leaves in winter. Sure enough, it is now looking much happier and I can’t wait for it 

to flower. 

From: Ron, Waihi 

MOVING HOUSE & TREE 

We sold our house in March and I wanted to 

take my two-year-old KiwiApple ‘Scallywag’ 

apple tree to our new home. I carefully dug it 

up straight after we had harvested the apples, 

but sadly, after I replanted it at our new place, 

the leaves died and fell off and the whole tree 

wasn’t looking too good at all for a few weeks. 

So, on the advice of my Dad, I gave it plenty of 

liquid seaweed fertiliser on its leaves daily and, 

sure enough, I can now see some new growth 

coming through on the tips of the branches. I will 

remember this trick next time. 

From:Vicky, Whangārei 

SISTER TO THE RESCUE 

I found lots of different-shaped bulbs in my garden, but I had no idea what they were 

or how tall or short they would grow, so I just lay them out to dry and then stored 

them all away. Then my lovely sister made me a poster showing lots of examples of 

bulbs and their sizes and the flowers that each one produces so when I go to plant 

them I will know what bulbs to plant where. Thanks Sis. 

Feed the disturbed roots 

While we can’t always coincide the 

moving of a young tree with its dormancy 

during winter, there are steps we can 

take to give it the best possible chance 

of survival. Start by leaving plenty of soil 

around the root ball when digging it out 

and then soak the roots of the young tree 

in a seaweed liquid mix for at least four 

hours before replanting it. Three days 

later, remove two thirds of the leaves from 

the bottom up. The roots will then have 

less leaves to feed. For the next five days, 

water the ground around it and spray the 

remaining leaves, top and underneath, 

with a seaweed liquid mix. And lastly, 

cross your fingers and toes! 

gardener.kiwi 

kiwigardener 91

quiz 

Multiple-choice: Down and dirty 

Successful gardening very much depends on an understanding of the soil conditions. 

Test your knowledge of soil with these multiple-choice questions. 

Testing your soil 

conditions 

[Code: Quiz] 

IMAGE sanjeri/Getty Images 

To be in to win your own copy 

of Gardener’s Quiz & Puzzle 

Book: 100 Brainteasers for 

Gardeners Who Know Their 

Onions by Simon Akeroyd 

and Dr Gareth Moore (Exisle 

Publishing), send as many 

answers as you can to either 

giveaways@gardener.kiwi 

or written on the back of 

an envelope addressed to 

Kiwi Gardener Quiz, PO Box 

1467, Christchurch 8140. The 

person with the most correct 

answers will win or, in the 

event of a tie, a draw will be 

made. Entries close July 22. 

1. Complete the name of this soil 

measurement: Cation ___ capacity 

a) Matrix 

b) Exchange 

c) Crumbly 

d) Subsoil 

2. What does double digging 

involve? 

a) Planting two plants to increase 

survival chances 

b) Digging down to two spade 

depths and adding 

organic matter 

c) Cultivating two allotments to 

double your yield 

d) Employing two gardeners to dig 

a planting hole 

3. Plants that prefer acidic soil 

are known as what? 

a) Burnicaceous 

b) Sulphurcaceous 

c) Acidificaceous 

d) Ericaceous 

4. What type of soil do most 

rhododendrons, camellias and 

magnolias generally require? 

a) Chalky 

b) Limestone 

c) Acidic 

d) Water-logged 

5. What soil pH is neutral? 

a) 2.2 

b) 3.1 

c) 4.5 

d) 7.0 

6. What are gardeners referring to 

when they mention NPK? 

a) Nitrogen, phosphorus and 

potassium 

b) Never Pick Kale 

c) Nitrogen, potassium and iron 

d) Nicotine, potassium and krypton 

Answers to last month’s 

quiz: The answer lies in 

the soil 

1. E. Sandy soil 

2. B. Peat soil 

3. F. Clay soil 

4. A. Chalky soil 

5. D. Loam soil 

6. C. Silt soil 

Congratulations to winner 

Mandy Davis of Christchurch. 


giveaways 

Treat your pet 

[Code: Doggy or Moggy] 

Olive’s Kitchen is the result of Kiwi fashionistas Annah and Sami 

Stretton joining forces with holistic veterinarian Dr Heidi Ward- 

McGrath to offer a range of 100% natural superfood supplements 

for our furry friends. The range is designed to reduce inflammation, 

support gut health, boost immunity and make their skin and coat 

shine with good health. 

We have a Doggy Immunity Bundle ($59) and a Moggy 

Immunity Bundle ($49) for two human owners. 

Sow up a storm 

[Code: Seeds] 

Don’t you just love a new packet of seed? Fortunately, Mr 

Fothergill’s has given us some treats to share with you. Add to 

your seed box fast-growing and winter-hardy kale ‘Jagallo Nero’; 

deep blue, shade-loving forget-me-not ‘Indigo’; compact parsley 

‘Curlina’ (ideal for windowsills and outdoor pots); and heirloom 

tomato ‘Black Russian’ for a rich, velvety crop come summer. 

We have 10 packs, each containing seed of the four varieties 

(total value $18.75), to give away. 

Discover the 

secrets 

[Code: Botanists] 

Refuel with plants 

[Code: Kitchen] 

Be inspired by the entirely plant-based range of chilled meals by 

Kiwi brand Naked Kitchen. With only premium, natural ingredients 

and without preservatives, artificial colours or flavours, the Eat 

Well series includes ‘Restore’, a green pea broccoli mint soup; 

‘Calm’, a cauliflower coconut turmeric dahl; ‘Nourish’, a mushroom 

quinoa lentil risotto; and ‘Comfort’, a tomato, aubergine and 

chickpea bowl. Available at a supermarket near you for $5.99 each. 

We have two eight-pack sets ($47.90 each) containing two of 

each flavour for you to try. 

Welcome to the lives of 35 

botanists from our past 

and present, driven by an 

insatiable desire to learn 

and discover, whose study 

of plants revolutionised the 

scientific world and increased 

our understanding of the 

importance plants have on 

our survival. Illustrated with 

beautiful period botanical 

water-colours and vibrant 

photographs. 

We have three copies of The 

Secrets of Great Botanists: 

and What They Teach Us 

About Gardening ($35, Exisle 

Publishing) to give away. 

To enter: Entries close July 31. Write your name, address and the code on the back of an envelope and send to: Kiwi Gardener, PO Box 1467, Christchurch 8140. Or email entry 

to giveaways@gardener.kiwi. Each entry must be made separately, with your competition code in the subject line. To be eligible for the draw, all entries must include your 

name, address and contact number. 

Competition Terms and Conditions: Entry into all Kiwi Gardener competitions is deemed acceptance of these terms and conditions. Entry is open only to New Zealand residents. Employees of Allied Press Ltd, their affiliates, agencies, and immediate families are 

ineligible to enter. The decision of the publisher of Allied Press Ltd is final. The prize is non-transferable and not redeemable for cash or foreign exchange. By registering their details, entrants give permission for Allied Press Ltd to send email, post and mobile 

text message updates, which they can opt out of at any stage. Each prize supplier reserves the right to verify the validity of entries and to disqualify any entry that is not in accordance with these terms and conditions. Each prize supplier’s standard terms and 

conditions apply. The promoter is Star Media, a division of Allied Press Ltd, Level 1, 359 Lincoln Road, Addington, Christchurch 8024. 

gardener.kiwi 

kiwigardener 93

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living off the land 

The tomahawk and the cyclamen 

Tales from The Catlins, where Diana Noonan lives on an 800sqm section, 

from which she sources 70% of her food. 

If I have one character trait I 

sincerely wish I could dispense 

with, it’s the tendency to 

anthropomorphise. Attributing 

human characteristics to 

something which doesn’t 

possess any, can occasionally 

be cute in small children, but it 

is not helpful in adults. 

I have lost track of the number 

of times I’ve stood beside the 

compost bin, arm extended 

and a packet of seed five years 

past its sow-by date clasped 

in my sweaty hand. I know 

that 99.9 per cent of the seed 

will no longer germinate, but 

if I commit it all to compost, 

then I’m denying the 0.1% that 

will sprout, a chance of life. 

I’m the same when it comes 

to jettisoning seedlings. Who 

am I to say ‘no’ to 30 surplus 

innocent baby silver beets that 

I simply cannot fit in my garden 

and which the neighbours don’t 

want either? I’m hobbled in the 

potting shed where the rusting 

heads of unusable trowels 

implore me not to toss them 

in the recycling. They beg for 

a new handle and a second 

chance at life. 

I spent sleepless nights 

worrying about all the little 

seedlings that had been panicbought 

from garden centres, 

pre-lockdown. Snapped up 

by well-meaning, would-be 

growers, I felt certain they 

would be slowly dying in the 

shopping bags of owners who 

no doubt intended to make a 

garden, but never did. 

Trust me, anthropomorphic 

tendencies can be crippling. 

And this was brought home 

to me through a recent 

cyclamen saga. 

It would be an understatement 

to say that my dear friend and 

neighbour, Carol, has difficulty 

getting her cyclamen to flower. 

In fact, for as long as I’ve known 

her, she has had the same plant 

and each year it has sprouted 

no more than four or five small, 

misshapen leaves. But each 

year, when she threatens to 

throw it out, I intercede on 

its tragic behalf … and so the 

vicious cycle continues. But not 

any more. 

This year, with the looming 

lockdown preventing my usual 

winter escape to sunny Greece, 

Carol saw her chance. “Here,” 

she smiled, calling round 

one day and holding up her 

cyclamen from a safe distance 

of two metres. “It’s yours for 

the winter. See what you can do 

with it.” 

I clasped the cyclamen to 

my chest, as one would an 

orphaned child. I was secretly 

pleased the poor darling would 

at last have a chance to become 

the pretty plant nature had 

always intended it to be. I set it 

down on the window ledge and 

went on a research rampage to 

see what ailed it. 

Although it was a little late in 

the year, I repotted it and fed 

it. Then I set about watering it 

correctly, not from the topdown 

as I know Carol insists 

on doing, but from the bottom 

up. It made no difference. In 

fact, the little foliage that was 

struggling to come through, 

seemed to shrink further back 

into its corm. I shifted the 

cyclamen into a cooler room. 

It didn’t help. 

Finally, suspecting mites, I 

picked up a magnifying glass 

and inspected each dying leaf. 

Not an insect could be seen. 

But I had run out of options and 

patience. I mixed up a solution 

of something very nasty that I 

found in the deep recesses of 

my potting shed cupboard and 

dunked the cyclamen’s leaves in 

it. And I mean dunked – swish, 

swish, swish! 

“Last chance, buddy!” I 

whispered menacingly to it. 

When, another week later, 

nothing had changed, I was so 

furious, I took the cyclamen 

outside to the chopping block, 

tipped it out of its pot and 

picked up the tomahawk. It was 

only when my husband walked 

past and asked me what I was 

doing, that I came to my senses. 

“You’re right,” I told him, 

when he suggested that I may 

have been overreacting. “Just 

because it won’t do what I want, 

doesn’t mean I can get angry 

with it and chop it up into tiny 

pieces. That’s just treating it as 

if it was human.” 

My husband looked 

uncomfortably at the tomahawk. 

“Is it?” he winced, slowly backing 

his way down the path. “I’ll try to 

remember that.” 

IMAGE Goldfinch4ever/Getty Images 


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