Citylife in Lichfield September 2020

Dining Review
Gallic Charm and
Cocktails
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The Bureau Bar & Brasserie on Market Street opened just
before the enforced lockdown but, since reopening its doors
a few weeks ago, has already proved to be very popular with
the diners of Lichfield. Jono Oates popped along to get a flavour for
the place.
Located next to the Samuel Johnson Birthplace Museum, The Bureau
gives a nod to Lichfield’s most famous son, and dictionary creator, with
the bar being named after a writing desk and with its feathered writing
quill logo.
Set over two floors The Bureau has lots of character and quirky
fixtures and fittings, with children’s retro games and toys attached to the
walls and ceilings! The lower floor is the main eating area and bar, with
socially distanced seating, while the upper floor has two function rooms
which can be hired for meetings and events.
I settled into my chair with a view out onto Market Street and perused
the compact, but interesting, menu. Bearing in mind it is a brasserie my
eye was immediately caught by the French onion soup on the starters
section, it is wonderfully Gallic and a firm favourite of mine so seemed
the obvious choice. For my main course I opted for a fillet steak with all
the trimmings, another of my favourites as, in my opinion, there is nothing
better than a well-cooked juicy steak.
While I was waiting, I was offered a drink and I decided to be decadent
and ordered a cocktail. The Bureau has a wide selection of the ‘usual
suspects’ but also a number that have been specially created by the bar
staff so I opted for a Flo-Rida, created by... well… Flo! It was a very
colourful concoction, beautifully presented in an ‘off-centre’ glass and
filled with Gin Ting fruit gin, orange, pineapple juice, passionfruit liqueur
and lemonade. The Flo-Rida had a deliciously sweet taste to it, combining
all the fruit-filled ingredients which created a sunshine breakfast-style
drink – but with the added punch of the gin and liqueur it definitely
transported you to the beaches of the French Caribbean!
By the time I had finished my lush cocktail, my soup had arrived at the
table. A lovely filled bowl, with the steam gently rising, and the cheese
gradually melting into the soup. The soup is made from beef stock,
caramelised onions, sugar, flour, olive oil and butter and Swiss gruyere
cheese layered across it, which melts under the heat. The soup was lovely
and strong and with the toast, cheese and onions, it makes for a very
warming, and comforting, dish. As the autumnal evenings start to draw in,
this is the perfect starter to warm the cockles of any heart!
My main course, the 8oz fillet steak, was perfectly cooked to my liking
(medium to well done) and came with onion rings, hand cut chips, peas,
tomatoes, mushrooms and a peppercorn sauce. The steak was well done
all the way down to the centre with a slight hint of pinky-red, was full of
flavour and a beautiful cut of meat. The onion rings were lightly battered
and crispy (not the greasy deep-fried kind) and the chips were chunky
and satisfyingly biteable. The vegetables were all fresh and the peppercorn
sauce provided a touch of heat and spice to complement the steak
perfectly. I also chose a glass of Merlot to accompany my meal which was
smooth, easy to drink and left a nice finish on the palate.
This was a deeply satisfying meal, the food was beautifully cooked and
presented, and all set in a friendly, funky location and atmosphere, but it’s
clear that the team also recognise the history, heritage and character of
this historic and charming building – something that is, of course, very
close to my heart too. For something a little bit different – in the
ambience, surroundings and with a great menu selection – I’d definitely
recommend that you book a table at The Bureau!
The Bureau Bar & Brasserie is at 34-36
Breadmarket Street, Lichfield, WS13 6LH.
Open 9am-11pm daily.
Telephone 01543 258246 to book a table.
Dining Out - A City of Flavours