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falstaff<br />
WINE GUIDE<br />
GERMANY<br />
2021<br />
550 Wine Estates<br />
4500 Wine Recommendations<br />
225 Restaurants and Inns in Wine Country
CONTENT<br />
FALSTAFF WINE GUIDE<br />
GERMANY 2021<br />
6 Editorial<br />
8 How to read this guide<br />
12 Tasting panel<br />
18 Wine range of the year: Weingut Dönnhoff<br />
22 Tomorrow’s old masters<br />
GERMAN WINE REGIONS<br />
30 AHR<br />
54 BADEN<br />
138 FRANKEN (FRANCONIA)<br />
194 MITTELRHEIN (MIDDLE RHINE)<br />
214 MOSEL<br />
282 NAHE<br />
320 PFALZ (PALATINATE)<br />
436 RHEINGAU AND<br />
HESSISCHE BERGSTRASSE<br />
498 RHEINHESSEN<br />
584 SACHSEN (SAXONY), SAALE-UNSTRUT<br />
AND BRANDENBURG<br />
606 WÜRTTEMBERG<br />
672 Wine shops and emporia – highly<br />
recommended<br />
679 Index – wine estates<br />
690 Imprint<br />
4 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
EDITORIAL<br />
DEAR READERS!<br />
Wolfgang M.<br />
Rosam,<br />
Publisher<br />
Falstaff Germany<br />
Ulrich Sautter,<br />
Editor-in-Chief<br />
Falstaff<br />
Wine Guide<br />
Germany<br />
You are holding an incredibly diverse and important German Wine Guide in your<br />
hands! Over the space of ten weeks, our professional and dedicated tasting<br />
panel of journalists, sommeliers and Master of Wine Anne Krebiehl tasted<br />
roughly 4,500 wines from 550 different estates across all German regions. The results<br />
are outstanding. 125 wines received a score of 95 points or more – that is<br />
unprecedented. Clearly, the gigantic dynamism of German viticulture and winemaking<br />
inspired the enthusiasm of our tasting panel. German wine today comes in a truly<br />
incredible stylistic spectrum! Top scores exist in both the ‘conventional’ and the<br />
‘experimental’ categories. What is more, the whites from 2019 and the reds from 2018<br />
form a thrilling duo of vintages: where the 2019s are all about chiselled elegance, the<br />
2018s deliver body and glorious fruit. One is downright ideal for the whites while the<br />
other imbues the reds with so much potential for pleasure.<br />
Which leads us right to our central message: do not miss out on these wines! Even if<br />
one or two of the top wines are sold out at the estate, we are sure that specialist and<br />
independent merchants will be able to help. Even the more humble, everyday wines<br />
have never been so good.<br />
We hope you enjoy reading this guide – and drinking the wines, of course!<br />
WOLFGANG M. ROSAM<br />
Publisher Falstaff Germany<br />
ULRICH SAUTTER<br />
Editor-in-Chief Falstaff Wine Guide Germany<br />
Photo: Florian Bolk, Ingo Pertramer<br />
6 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
INHALT<br />
7
OVERVIEW<br />
HOW TO READ<br />
THIS GUIDE<br />
There is a certain similarity between<br />
a wine guide and a calendar: within<br />
a foreseeable period both serve as<br />
daily companions – but at some point<br />
their usefulness comes to an end. When<br />
the last calendar pages are gone – or most<br />
of the wines featured in this guide have<br />
sold out – it is time to say good-bye and<br />
put the next edition on your bookshelf.<br />
In order that you, dear readers, get the<br />
greatest possible benefit from this guide<br />
over the coming twelve months, we would<br />
like to give you a few tips on how to get<br />
the most out of it. First of all please note<br />
that we have introduced a new element to<br />
our estate descriptions: we have evaluated<br />
each estate and awarded star ratings – out<br />
of a maximum of five stars. Here is what<br />
these categories represent:<br />
* An estate that regularly produces<br />
wines which are typical for<br />
the grape variety and region.<br />
** An estate known for reliable wine<br />
quality, representing the wines of its<br />
regions at a high level.<br />
*** An estate known for making<br />
individual wines of consistently<br />
outstanding quality, held in high<br />
esteem in both domestic and some<br />
export markets.<br />
**** An estate recognised for consistently<br />
producing top wines of a distinct<br />
style, whose wines are sought after in<br />
both domestic and export markets.<br />
***** An estate with a long and<br />
continuous track record of<br />
producing top wines of a distinctly<br />
individual style, whose wines are<br />
highly sought after in both domestic<br />
and export markets.<br />
In addition to the rating and description<br />
of each estate, you will find a score –<br />
along the internationally used<br />
100-point-scale – for each tasted wine.<br />
All the best wines come with a detailed<br />
description. The Falstaff tasting panel<br />
places very high importance on this<br />
sensorial description: depending on<br />
occasion and food, wines with a more<br />
modest score, say a perfectly captured<br />
entry-level wine of a two-star estate with<br />
a solid 88 points may be more suited<br />
than a still youthfully shy 94-point wine<br />
from a five-star-estate. Our descriptions<br />
will prove invaluable when making such<br />
buying or drinking decisions. The tasting<br />
notes will also go a long way in answering<br />
the question of ‘will I personally like<br />
this wine?’<br />
What is more, we have designated one<br />
wine of each estate as our “Falstaff Tip”.<br />
This category usually designates a wine<br />
that provides excellent value, is a particular<br />
speciality of the estate or simply a curiosity<br />
of note. Further information on the<br />
individual estates which was beyond the<br />
scope of this printed guide can be found at<br />
www.falstaff.de where the search function<br />
will yield very quick results.<br />
But back to our comparison to calendars.<br />
A calendar with outstanding photography<br />
is worth hanging on to and warrants being<br />
looked at again later. We hope that this<br />
will be the case for this book. We all<br />
know how differently we see things with<br />
the passing of years and who knows,<br />
memory may well imbue the guide with<br />
value – even more so when a few bottles<br />
of these vintages are still in the cellar.<br />
8 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
INHALT<br />
SCHLESWIG-<br />
HOLSTEIN<br />
HAMBURG<br />
WINE REGIONS<br />
OF GERMANY<br />
NIEDER-<br />
SACHSEN<br />
MECKLENBURG-<br />
VORPOMMERN<br />
Magdeburg<br />
BERLIN<br />
BRANDENBURG<br />
13<br />
4<br />
1<br />
Düsseldorf<br />
Rhine<br />
6<br />
7<br />
5<br />
RHEINLAND-<br />
PFALZ<br />
Mosel<br />
Saarbrücken<br />
SAARLAND<br />
2<br />
Breisach<br />
NORDRHEIN-<br />
WESTFALEN<br />
Rhine<br />
10<br />
5<br />
8<br />
Wiesbaden<br />
Mainz<br />
2<br />
9<br />
HESSEN<br />
Neckar<br />
BADEN-<br />
WÜRTTEMBERG<br />
Lake<br />
Constance<br />
2<br />
14<br />
Stuttgart<br />
14<br />
Unstrut<br />
3<br />
11<br />
THÜRINGEN<br />
Erfurt<br />
Saale<br />
Main<br />
SACHSEN-ANHALT<br />
BAVARIA<br />
Danube<br />
Munich<br />
Freyburg<br />
Elbe<br />
Dresden<br />
12<br />
SACHSEN<br />
1 Ahr, Page 30<br />
2 Baden, Page 54<br />
3 Franken, Page 138<br />
4 Mosel, Page 214<br />
5 Mittelrhein, Page 194<br />
6 Nahe, Page 282<br />
13 Brandenburg, Page 584<br />
Das Renommee des 7 Winzerberufs Pfalz, Page 320 hat sich in den 14 letzten Württemberg, 20 Jahren Page 606 enorm<br />
verbessert. Fand er vorher au sserhalb seiner eigenen Grenzen kaum.<br />
TEXT AXEL BIESLER<br />
8 Rheingau, Page 436<br />
9 Hessische Bergstrasse, Page 436<br />
10 Rheinhessen, Page 498<br />
11 Saale-Unstrut, Page 584<br />
12 Sachsen, Page 584<br />
9
OVERVIEW<br />
KEY TO SCORES AND<br />
LIST OF ABBREVIATIONS<br />
KEY TO ESTATE<br />
DESCRIPTIONS<br />
WINE SCORES<br />
100 cannot be surpassed<br />
95–99 absolute world class<br />
90–94 exquisite wine, amongst<br />
the best of the vintage<br />
85–89 good to very good<br />
PRICE CATEGORIES<br />
€ up to 9,99 Euro<br />
€€ 10 to 19,99 Euro<br />
€€€ 20 to 49,99 Euro<br />
€€€€ 50 Euro and more<br />
ABBREVIATIONS<br />
EG Erstes Gewächs<br />
GG Grosses Gewächs<br />
GERMAN TERMS<br />
ERSTE LAGE classified ‘premier cru’<br />
GROSSE LAGE classified ‘grand cru’<br />
TROCKEN dry<br />
WINZER Vintner/Winemaker<br />
WHITE GRAPE VARIETIES<br />
AFS Alter Fränkischer Satz<br />
(Trad. Franconian Field Blend)<br />
AU Auxerrois<br />
BC Bacchus<br />
BS Blauer Silvaner<br />
CAL VB Cal 6-04<br />
(interspecific new breeding)<br />
CB Cabernet Blanc<br />
CB2 Chenin Blanc<br />
CH Chardonnay<br />
EL Elbling<br />
FR Faber<br />
GE Gutedel<br />
GM Gelber Muskateller<br />
GMA Gelber Malinger<br />
GM6 Goldmuskateller<br />
GS Silvaner<br />
GV Veltliner<br />
HD Hölder<br />
HX<br />
JO<br />
KR<br />
MM<br />
MO<br />
MS<br />
MT<br />
OR<br />
PG<br />
PH<br />
RL<br />
RM<br />
ROR<br />
RR<br />
SÄ<br />
SB<br />
SC<br />
SG<br />
SO<br />
SOG<br />
TR<br />
VI<br />
WH<br />
WB<br />
Huxelrebe<br />
Johanniter<br />
Kerner<br />
Morio Muskat<br />
Muskat-Ottonel<br />
Muscaris<br />
Müller-Thurgau/Rivaner<br />
Orleans<br />
Grauburgunder<br />
Phönix<br />
Rieslaner<br />
Roter Muskateller<br />
Roter Riesling<br />
Riesling/Rheinriesling<br />
Scheurebe<br />
Sauvignon Blanc<br />
Sauvignac<br />
Sauvignon Gris<br />
Solaris<br />
Souvignier Gris<br />
Traminer/Gewürztraminer<br />
Viognier<br />
Weisser Heunisch<br />
Weissburgunder<br />
RED GRAPE VARIETIES<br />
AC Acolon<br />
BA Barbera<br />
BB Blauburger<br />
BF Blaufränkisch<br />
BP Portugieser<br />
CA Carmenére<br />
CAC Cabernet Carbon<br />
CC Cabernet Cortis<br />
CD Cabernet Dorsa<br />
CDo Cabernet Dorlo<br />
CF Cabernet Franc<br />
CI Cabernet Mitos<br />
CO Domina<br />
CS Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
CT Cabertin<br />
CU Cabernet Cubin<br />
DF Dornfelder<br />
DU Dunkelfelder<br />
FB Frühburgunder/Pinot Noir<br />
Précoce<br />
GN<br />
MA<br />
ME<br />
MON<br />
MTR<br />
MV<br />
NE<br />
PI<br />
PM<br />
PN<br />
PO<br />
PV<br />
RE<br />
RMT<br />
RTL<br />
SL<br />
SN<br />
SW<br />
SY<br />
TE<br />
TL<br />
TS<br />
ZW<br />
Grenache<br />
Malbec<br />
Merlot<br />
Monarch<br />
Muskattrollinger<br />
Mourvédre<br />
Nebbiolo<br />
Pinotage<br />
Pinot Meunier<br />
Spätburgunder/Pinot Noir<br />
Prior<br />
Petit Verdot<br />
Regent<br />
Rosenmuskateller<br />
Rotling<br />
St. Laurent<br />
Sangiovese<br />
Pinot Meunier<br />
Syrah<br />
Tempranillo<br />
Trollinger<br />
Taubenschwarz<br />
Blauer Zweigelt<br />
KEY TO RESTAURANTS,<br />
INNS, HOTELS<br />
SYMBOLS<br />
V Garden/Patio<br />
n Overnight stay/accommodation<br />
available<br />
A Car park<br />
X Child friendly<br />
q Dogs not allowed<br />
D Wheelchair accessible<br />
C Credit cards accepted<br />
PRICE CATEGORIES<br />
a Affordable<br />
b Mid-range<br />
c Upper range<br />
10 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WITH WINE HEART AND MIND<br />
These members of the Falstaff tasting panel tasted and argued –<br />
with just the right combination of enthusiasm and critical analysis.<br />
ULRICH SAUTTER<br />
Wine Editor-in-Chief<br />
Falstaff Germany<br />
Ulrich Sautter grew up on Lake Constance<br />
and started collecting wines at the tender age<br />
of ten. It was while at university that he<br />
started writing about wine. After completing<br />
his doctoral thesis, he worked as editor and<br />
author. Sautter co-authored the German Wine<br />
Atlas and is wine editor-in-chief for Falstaff<br />
Germany.<br />
RAINER SCHÄFER<br />
Freelance writer, author, Managing Editor<br />
Falstaff Wine Guide Germany<br />
Rainer Schäfer, noted German wine expert,<br />
grew up in Upper Swabia and has been based<br />
as a journalist in Hamburg for over twenty<br />
years now. Schäfer writes about the things he<br />
appreciates most – wine, food and football –<br />
most recently he served as editor-in-chief of<br />
the football magazine RUND.<br />
Photos: Shutterstock,, Peter Niepagenkemper, Christine Krawall, provided<br />
12 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
TASTING PANEL<br />
AXEL BODE<br />
Photographer and sommelier, Hamburg<br />
This trained photographer retired his camera<br />
in 2003 and opened the café bar ‘Das Nuth’ in<br />
Hamburg-Ottensen. Since this was not quite<br />
enough work, he then opened the wine<br />
restaurant ‘Witwenball’ together with his wife<br />
Julia. It is a gastronomic allround experience<br />
offering the finest foods and wines from<br />
artisanal production in an urban atmosphere.<br />
It is also a popular tasting and event space.<br />
PHILIPP ELSBROCK<br />
Food Editor-in-Chief<br />
Falstaff Germany<br />
Philipp Elsbrock mainly focuses on food and<br />
dining subjects for Falstaff Magazine’s German<br />
edition, but his experience in wine tasting,<br />
acquired during years as a wine editor, also<br />
benefits this guide. Elsbrock was born in<br />
Duisburg and has been exploring vineyards –<br />
in the Rheingau and elsewhere – since student<br />
days.<br />
ELISABETH FÜNGERS<br />
Freelance author and columnist, owner of<br />
Restaurant Nil, Hamburg<br />
Elisabeth Füngers was born into a family of<br />
fishmongers, purveyors of fine foods, butchers<br />
and restaurateurs. Catering also runs in her<br />
blood: for thirty years she has owned and run<br />
the wine-focused Restaurant Nil in Hamburg.<br />
Her rare spare moments, when not dedicated<br />
to looking after diners and staff, Füngers<br />
spends as an author of cookery books, taster<br />
and columnist.<br />
ANNE KREBIEHL MW<br />
Editor-in-Chief<br />
Falstaff International<br />
Anne Krebiehl MW started her professional<br />
career in London offices but soon found her<br />
calling in wine. She completed her WSET<br />
Diploma in 2010 and became a Master of Wine<br />
in 2014. Since then, Krebiehl has written for<br />
numerous publications, such as The World of<br />
Fine Wine or Wine Enthusiast, for instance. In<br />
January 2021, Krebiehl joined the Falstaff team<br />
as editor-in-chief for the English-language sister<br />
magazine Falstaff International.<br />
13
MICHAEL KUTEJ<br />
Managing Partner<br />
Hanse Lounge, Hamburg<br />
Michael Kutej, born into a family of restaurateurs<br />
in Klagenfurt, Austria, is well-travelled:<br />
via Salzburg, Berlin, USA and Jamaica he<br />
landed in Hamburg where he now runs the<br />
private members‘ club Hanse Lounge – which<br />
he turned into a popular location for wine<br />
events. Kutej also works as a consultant and<br />
organises both wine travel and tastings.<br />
SOPHIE LEHMANN<br />
Sommelier and musician, Hamburg<br />
Not only does Sophie Lehmann currently<br />
impress as restaurant manager and sommelier<br />
at the 100/200 Restaurant in Hamburg alongside<br />
her husband Thomas Imbusch, she has also been<br />
on stage as a pianist and saxophonist. It is no<br />
surprise then that Lehmann’s numerous talents<br />
also proved an asset for Falstaff’s tasting panel<br />
where her expertise was a valuable contribution.<br />
JOHANNES LEUSCH<br />
Director wineBANK,<br />
Hamburg<br />
Johannes Leusch, born in Mainz, helped<br />
harvest grapes when he was still a child.<br />
He studied business and political science in his<br />
home town and in Alicante. After graduating<br />
he coordinated the luxury ocean liners MS<br />
Europa and MS Europa 2 for Hapag-Lloyd<br />
Cruises. In 2016, his passion for food and wine<br />
finally led him to running the private members‘<br />
club wineBank in Hamburg.<br />
MATTHIAS NESKE<br />
Author and blogger, runs the Chez Matze<br />
blog, Nuremberg<br />
As someone hailing from the Harz Mountains,<br />
wine was not necessarily an obvious path for<br />
Matthias Neske. However, as he was writing<br />
his thesis in the South of France, surrounded by<br />
vines and wine villages, he was smitten. For<br />
nine years now this doctor of geography has<br />
run his blog Chez Matze where he loves to act<br />
as ‘denicheur’, or talent scout, scouring for<br />
wines off the beaten track, looking for strong<br />
candidates with wonderful diversity.<br />
Photos: provided, Anna Stöcher, Florian Bolk, Klaus Knuffmann/Michael Kutej<br />
14 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
TASTING PANEL<br />
Bavarian girl actively aims for.<br />
PETER PROEBSTL<br />
Section Manager wine, Edeka Supermarkets,<br />
Hamburg<br />
Peter Pröbstl studied economics at the University<br />
of Regensburg and has worked in food retail<br />
ever since graduating. After a distribution job<br />
for one of the German discount stores he<br />
joined Edeka’s buying team in 2011 and has<br />
been responsible for wine buying since 2012 –<br />
this way he can combine work, expertise and<br />
pleasure perfectly.<br />
CLAUDIA RETTER<br />
Sommelier-legend,<br />
Lütjensee<br />
Claudia Retter worked her wonders at various<br />
notable temples of gastronomy after finishing<br />
her certified sommelier training in Munich in<br />
2004. Since 2009 she has run her family’s longstanding<br />
business, Restaurant and Hotel Zur<br />
Fischerklause on Lake Lütjen near Hamburg.<br />
Busche Publishing has numbered Retter among<br />
Germany’s 50 best sommeliers several times.<br />
ELENA SCHEER<br />
Gastronomic whirlwind and<br />
sommelier-to-be, Geisenheim<br />
Elena Scheer, born in 1998, tells us that she ‘is up<br />
to a lot:’ she studies international wine business<br />
in Geisenheim, is about to become a certified<br />
sommelier and moonlights at the two-Michelinstarred<br />
Sosein Restaurant in Nuremberg. Any<br />
time leftover is spent on various internships –<br />
like at Noma in copenhagen or in Falstaff’s<br />
editorial offices. Restricting herself to speaking<br />
‘high German only’ is not something this<br />
THOMAS SCHWITALLA<br />
Freelance writer,<br />
Hamburg<br />
For more than three decades, Thomas<br />
Schwitalla has engaged intensely with wine<br />
and time and again rejoices in discovering<br />
great white and red wines. The Freiburg-born<br />
journalist lives just outside Hamburg with his<br />
family.<br />
15
TASTING PANEL<br />
DANIELA STUBBE<br />
Freelance writer,<br />
Hamburg<br />
Hamburg-born Daniela Stubbe financed her<br />
law degree, focussed on information and<br />
communication, by working in the wine industry<br />
and writing about wine. After a number of years<br />
in Mexico where she worked in tourism and<br />
preservation, she was drawn back to her home<br />
town and to wine. Today she ‘enthusiastically’<br />
reports for various publications ‘on wine and the<br />
people behind it’ – about winemakers, tasting<br />
impressions and landscapes.<br />
HEIKO TAUDIEN<br />
Media spokesman, service provider for<br />
tangible assets and freelance writer, Hamburg<br />
Apart from his work at the WSET in London,<br />
Heiko-T. Taudien looks after the German and<br />
British locations of the CW Wine Group. He<br />
is also working on a publication on the<br />
subject of value in wine, writing about and<br />
tasting wines from France, the United States<br />
and Germany.<br />
RAKHSHAN ZHOULEH<br />
Freelance sommelier and consultant, Munich<br />
Rakhshan Zhouleh, born in Tehran, started<br />
his career as a professional footballer. He was<br />
then bitten by the wine bug which led him to<br />
various top restaurants: Zhouleh worked at<br />
Wiesbaden‘s Ente im Lehel, at Haerlin in<br />
Hamburg, at Margaux in Berlin and at Tantris<br />
in Munich before going freelance in 2009 as<br />
sommelier and consultant.<br />
Photos: provided, Anna Stöcher, Florian Bolk, Klaus Knuffmann/Michael Kutej<br />
16 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WINE RANGE<br />
OF THE YEAR<br />
‘Each vineyard has a talent all of its own. This is the reason why we kept<br />
expanding. The greatest thing for me is to show these differences with<br />
just one grape variety.’<br />
CORNELIUS DÖNNHOFF<br />
18 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
KOLLEKTION DES JAHRES 2020<br />
Stefanie und Fabian Lassak betreiben auf<br />
nur drei Hektar Rebfläche seit 2016 ein<br />
kleines, feines Manufaktur-Weingut<br />
MORE THAN JUST<br />
HIGH SCORES<br />
Our ‘Wine Range of the Year‘ should embody various attributes: Individuality,<br />
style, a certain seamlessness, reliability. Just a handful of extraordinarily<br />
successful wines are not enough. With the wines from the 2019 vintage,<br />
Cornelius Dönnhoff does justice to all these points - in outstanding fashion.<br />
WORDS ULRICH SAUTTER<br />
Photos: Stefan Haehnel, Photography was provided<br />
Dönnhoff’s current wines meet<br />
the very first of the above<br />
criteria with distinction. The<br />
wines are as individual as the<br />
sites in which they originate. In this<br />
regard, Dönnhoff continues in his father<br />
Helmut’s vein: never force anything on the<br />
wines but allow diligent and careful work<br />
in the vineyard to become the foundation<br />
of genuine – and individual – site expression.<br />
It is exemplary, however, how Cornelius<br />
Dönnhoff has managed not to disappear<br />
in his father Helmut Dönnhoff’s rather<br />
large footsteps – and this takes us straight<br />
to the question of style: Cornelius<br />
Dönnhoff’s current Rieslings set new<br />
standards – well beyond the confines of<br />
the Nahe region – in terms of freshness,<br />
elegance and mineral depth. When he first<br />
took the reins at this family estate in<br />
Oberhausen, you might have thought that<br />
his versions of Dellchen, Felsenberg and<br />
Hermannshöhle were just a little more dry<br />
than before but since then, and certainly<br />
with his 2019 vintage, it becomes clear:<br />
more dry, yes, but also pithier, even richer<br />
in detail and pervaded by almost incredible<br />
tension. Helmut Dönnhoff will be able to<br />
take these statements in his stride because<br />
his own wines already were, and still are,<br />
in a class of their own, quite regardless of<br />
the fact that his son has now catapulted<br />
them into a new age in thrilling fashion.<br />
The next criterion: a certain seamlessness.<br />
Cornelius Dönnhoff’s 2019 range of wines<br />
gives the impression that each wine is<br />
positioned exactly where it should be. The<br />
Grosse Gewächse are clearly distinct from<br />
19
WINE RANGE OF THE YEAR 2021<br />
Helmut and Cornelius Dönnhoff catapulted<br />
themselves into a new age<br />
the Erste Lagen, not by projecting muscle<br />
or power, but by differentiation. The Erste<br />
Lagen themselves are not second wines, but<br />
personalities of their own. The Kabinett<br />
from the Niederhäuser Klamm is a real<br />
Kabinett and not a downgraded Spätlese. If<br />
you juxtapose the two Spätlesen from<br />
Brücke und Hermannshöhle, the sites express<br />
themselves as clearly as the Pradikat. Yes,<br />
you almost cannot help but realise how<br />
incidental the degree of sweetness in such<br />
wines actually is. The ‘Tonschiefer’ Riesling<br />
then takes us to the criterion of reliability:<br />
even the wine with the lowest price of all<br />
those that were presented for tasting reached<br />
a score of 91 points. This proves it: even the<br />
entry-level wine portrays the individuality<br />
and style of the house and stands in<br />
completely coherent relation to the top<br />
wines in the range.<br />
These latter wines crown this range with<br />
numerous highlights: it was for seven<br />
wines that the Falstaff tasting panel awarded<br />
scores of 95 points and more. All of the<br />
Grosse Gewächse have the potential for<br />
ten and even twenty years of bottle age.<br />
The two Auslesen – Brücke and the auction<br />
wine ‘Einzelpfahl’, a selection from the<br />
Hermannshöhle site, are the result of a<br />
most meticulous selective process which,<br />
at this level, is unusual even for top estates.<br />
The botrytis captured in these selections is<br />
veritable Haute Couture: once again it is<br />
not about the most viscosity or the greatest<br />
power but about the most delicate aromatics<br />
possible and the sheer amount of<br />
complexity.<br />
We all take our hats off to Cornelius<br />
Dönnhoff and congratulate him on this<br />
truly sensational range of wines.<br />
Highest quality natural corks are a<br />
matter of course at Weingut Dönnhoff<br />
Photos: Photography was provided<br />
20 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Im namhaften Esslinger<br />
Familienbetrieb hebt Maximilian<br />
Vincent Eymann in the vineyards<br />
of Gönnheim<br />
TOMORROW’S<br />
OLD MASTERS<br />
This was yet another year that brought numerous new talents to<br />
the attention of the Falstaff tasting panel. Representative of many<br />
of their colleagues, we feature three of them.
Stefanie and Fabian Lassak have run their<br />
small boutique estate since 2016<br />
with just three hectares of vines.<br />
WEINGUT LASSAK | HESSIGHEIM, WÜRTTEMBERG<br />
LOOKING AT THE<br />
LONG TERM<br />
WORDS MATTHIAS NESKE<br />
Photos: Lucie Greiner Medienagenten, Weingut Lassak<br />
Diversity.’ Fabian Lassak only<br />
reflects a few moments before<br />
answering the question what<br />
the most important element in<br />
his and his wife’s vineyards is. ‘We believe<br />
in biodiversity, not only when it comes to<br />
cover crops but also when it comes to<br />
vines.’ Ever since Stefanie and Fabian<br />
Lassak started their small estate in the<br />
Neckar valley from scratch in 2016, there<br />
has been a breath of fresh air in the<br />
valley.<br />
Spectacular vineyard terraces on the steep<br />
slopes of the Neckar river are bounded by<br />
gentler, vineyard parcels, as ancient and<br />
fragmented as the terraces themselves, in<br />
this landscape shaped by centuries of<br />
human culture. ‘Actually, everything here<br />
should be done by hand, everything<br />
should be done on a small-scale,’ Lassak<br />
says as he gazes across the surrounding<br />
vineyards. ‘The conditions for quality<br />
viticulture are in fact wonderful here; it is<br />
mass production that meets its economic<br />
limits here.’<br />
The Lassaks now own 3.4 hectares of<br />
wines, a part of which still lies fallow so<br />
that the soils can regenerate a little before<br />
replanting. ‘We two could subsist on four<br />
to five hectares,’ he reckons and notes<br />
that the first two years were hard. ‘While<br />
we managed to get hold of great parcels,<br />
we met with quite some scepticism: such<br />
close planting, crooked posts, all the<br />
weeds in the vineyard and such bitter<br />
wine without residual sweetness,’ he<br />
remembers. ‘Once we had the 2018<br />
vintage in the cellar I just panicked and<br />
thought how on earth are we going to sell<br />
all of this stuff?’ He laughs. ‘Now our cellar<br />
is empty, and that’s an interesting<br />
emotion too.’<br />
23
TOMORROW’S OLD MASTERS 2021<br />
Weingut Lassak’s site<br />
along the Besigheimer Wurmberg<br />
Apart from Riesling and Lemberger, the<br />
Lassaks have a particular weakness for<br />
Spätburgunder, and this is where the<br />
subject of diversity comes in. ‘We only<br />
plant massal selections,’ Lassak explains.<br />
‘The diverse genetics increase quality and<br />
make the vineyard more resilient.’ It is<br />
via Lassak’s brother Tobias who works in<br />
France, that the connections to French<br />
nurseries who offer such material, even<br />
biodynamically farmed, were established.<br />
‘One vine has many bunches, another just<br />
a few, another has tiny berries … This is<br />
our idea of balance so that we do not<br />
have to intervene all that much in the<br />
vineyard.’<br />
Listening to the Lassaks and their plans,<br />
it quickly becomes evident that they are<br />
all about the long term – about conscious<br />
actions, gentle farming, harmony. If this is<br />
postmodern viticulture in Württemberg<br />
we have a lot to look forward to.<br />
‘We only plant massal<br />
selections. The diverse genetics<br />
increase quality and make the<br />
vineyard more resilient.’<br />
FABIAN LASSAK, WEINGUT LASSAK<br />
Find more information on this estate and<br />
the tasted wines on page 647.<br />
24 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
VINCENT EYMANN | GÖNNHEIM, PFALZ<br />
AN AMBITIOUS BUT DOWN-TO-<br />
EARTH REALIST<br />
WORDS RAINER SCHÄFER<br />
Photos: Weingut Lassak, Lucie Greiner Medienagenten<br />
Gönnheim,’ Vincent Eymann says<br />
with merciless honesty, ‘is not<br />
known for anything.’ This<br />
diagnosis also applies to the<br />
situation of his home village, located<br />
beyond the well-frequented destinations<br />
of the Pfalz Wine Route and its attendant<br />
gourmet culture. Clearly, this 29-year-old<br />
winemaker is not inclined towards<br />
self-mutilation and is in possession of<br />
healthy confidence. Clearly, he also knows<br />
how to assess the local conditions<br />
realistically: In and around Gönnheim,<br />
where Eymann farms roughly 15 hectares<br />
of vineyards, vines root in deep loess and<br />
loam soils that are partly calcareous. Even<br />
if these sites are rather suited to Pinotvarieties,<br />
Eymann suggests, in comparison<br />
to the famous site of the Haardt they are<br />
more like potato fields. That is why Eyman<br />
was ‘incredibly keen’, when the opportunity<br />
arose, to take over two and a half hectares<br />
in the Bad Dürkheimer Fuchsmantel and<br />
Wachenheimer Schlossberg sites in 2017.<br />
This is where he farms up to 90-year-old<br />
ungrafted Riesling vines that root in Triassic<br />
sandstone.<br />
Vincent Eymann has a clear focus. Right<br />
after graduating from Geisenheim<br />
university in 2015, he returned to his<br />
Demeter-certified parental estate, even<br />
though he would have loved to expand his<br />
experience abroad. But his father Rainer<br />
Eyman had been ‘at the limit’. Thus the<br />
youngster pulled his weight, as is his wont.<br />
His parents went down the organic path as<br />
early as 1982 and started farming biodynamically<br />
in 2003. Rainer Eymann, an<br />
‘idealist’ and bold pioneer for alternative<br />
viticulture met with quite a lot of<br />
opposition, ‘even from his own father,’<br />
Eymann junior adds. Eymann senior had<br />
used the medieval spelling of the family’s<br />
name - ‘Toreye’ - for his top wines. As early<br />
25
TOMORROW’S OLD MASTERS 2021<br />
Weingut and Weinstube<br />
Eymann in Gönnheim<br />
as the 1980s he planted Chardonnay<br />
‘illegally’, which he still had to declare as<br />
Weissburgunder. Today, Vincent Eymann<br />
benefits from these mature vineyards and<br />
their natural balance.<br />
The young winemaker developed his own<br />
style with ease. He ferments his wines ‘more<br />
cloudy and at a higher temperature’ and likes<br />
to mature them in Stück- and Doppelstück<br />
barrels (1,200 and 2,400 l, respectively).<br />
Eymann wants to streamline the number of<br />
varieties, St. Laurent and Muskateller are to<br />
make way for Riesling and Spätburgunder,<br />
for which his ‘heart beats rather frantically.’<br />
He also wants to expand his traditional<br />
method Sekt production. Thus he spent a few<br />
months shadowing Volker Raumland, one of<br />
Germany’s best Sekt producers, and also had<br />
a look around Champagne. Since Vincent<br />
Eymann also makes a skin-fermented<br />
Gewürztraminer in a solera-system that is<br />
bottled unfiltered and with minimal sulphur<br />
dioxide addition, he is often put into the<br />
natural wine camp – of which he is not<br />
uncritical. He is no fan of ‘zeitgeisty hipsterwines.’<br />
For him they often are just faulty. He<br />
prefers to work in ‘time-honoured’ fashion<br />
and artisanal tradition. Vincent Eymann is a<br />
down-to-earth-realist with ambition – he<br />
also has the necessary ease and imagination.<br />
He has put up a yellow hammock in the<br />
Wachenheimer Schlossberg, a ‘magical spot<br />
with a special spirit’, where he relaxes once<br />
the work is done, philosophising about his<br />
aims and actions. Eymann has achieved a lot<br />
in a few short years. Now his father cooks at<br />
the estate-owned Weinstube, ‘his true calling’,<br />
Eymann says, and we can only contradict<br />
him in one respect: Gönnheim and his estate<br />
have long become synonymous with mineral<br />
Riesling and compelling, elegant<br />
Spätburgunder.<br />
‘My Rieslings no longer go<br />
through malolactic fermentation.<br />
I place great value on<br />
spontaneous fermentation which<br />
has to finish without the addition<br />
of cultured yeast strains.’<br />
VINCENT EYMANN<br />
Find more information on this estate<br />
and the tasted wines on page 349.<br />
26 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Christian and Alexandra Ehrlich – from three<br />
vine rows to a four-hectare-garagiste<br />
WEINMANUFAKTUR 3 ZEILEN | RÖDELSEE, FRANKEN<br />
IMPROVISATION ARTIST WITH<br />
A MIND OF HIS OWN WORD RAINER SCHÄFER<br />
Photos: Lucie Greiner Medienagenten, Weinmanufaktur 3 Zeilen<br />
Christian Ehrlich called his<br />
Riesling from the 2018 vintage<br />
‘Dachschaden’ (i.e. literally roof<br />
damage but also colloquial for<br />
stupidity) – and this may well serve as a<br />
symbol for the history of Weinmanufaktur<br />
3 Zeilen in Rödelsee. This history is<br />
characterised by numerous tiny steps in the<br />
right direction, numerous gut decisions but<br />
also setbacks. Ehrlich and his wife<br />
Alexandra run their estate on the side and<br />
their most recent impulse towards<br />
self-sufficiency was the purchase of a<br />
100-year-old winery two years ago. This<br />
building is being renovated bit by bit and<br />
every bottle of the ‘Dachschaden’ Riesling<br />
sold is supposed to finance one square metre<br />
of a new roof. ‘By now we are masters of<br />
improvisation,’ the 38-year-old says, who<br />
still works full-time for a manufacturer of<br />
cellar machinery in Kitzingen. Ehrlich came<br />
to wine via a circuitous path. Initially, he<br />
wanted to train as an electrician but soon<br />
realised that ‘laying cables wasn’t his world.’<br />
He then got a diploma in oenological<br />
engineering and worked for the Manincor<br />
estate and Kellerei Terlan in Alto Adige,<br />
Italy, as well as for the organic estate of<br />
Gerhard Roth in Franken. ‘This really<br />
shaped me,’ he says. It was in 2006 that<br />
Ehrlich started making his own wine from<br />
three rows of Silvaner (i.e. the three Zeilen<br />
of the estate’s name). He whitewashed his<br />
grandmother’s laundry room and put his<br />
first barrels there. Since no bank was willing<br />
to extend a loan, the savings paid into a<br />
mutual building society account served as<br />
his modest capital. ‘I had no harvest buckets,<br />
no secateurs,’ he remembers. Later on, he<br />
started sharing a cellar with another<br />
winemaker in Iphofen, ‘but it always was<br />
just too cramped.’ Currently the Ehrlichs<br />
have four hectares of vines, barrels, tanks<br />
and machinery spread across four locations<br />
27
TOMORROW’S OLD MASTERS 2021<br />
‘For me, natural wines must be<br />
free from faults, I do not<br />
accept off-smells, that is no<br />
fun. I much rather spend extra<br />
time in the cellar.’<br />
CHRISTIAN EHRLICH<br />
WEINMANUFAKTUR 3 ZEILEN<br />
Find more information on this estate<br />
and the tasted wines on page 186.<br />
in which the Erhlichs work. The couple<br />
farm their vines organically and their estate<br />
is certified organic by Bioland. ‘We like to<br />
experiment; we grow with and alongside<br />
our vines,’ Christian Ehrlich says, who has<br />
planted a wide spectrum of varieties on his<br />
gypsum keuper soils, amongst them also<br />
rare varieties like Adelfränkisch – also<br />
because he wants to help revive the historic<br />
field blends of Franken. ‘I like this old way<br />
of doing things,’ he says. He is not swayed<br />
by trends, ‘I have never made wines according<br />
to the market, only ever according to my own<br />
gusto.’ This includes maturation in Tonneaux<br />
which he has coopered from local Steigerwald<br />
oak. Talking about his wines, Ehrlich’s<br />
enthusiasm is unstoppable and he is not shy<br />
when it comes to voicing opinions. When a<br />
radio station interviewed him after a seminar<br />
he gave on orange wines, he said: ‘The wines<br />
taste just the way my uncle Heiner’s have<br />
tasted for the past 20 years.’ Ever since then,<br />
his skin-fermented, unfiltered silvaner is<br />
called ‘Onkel Heiner Seiner’.<br />
Days can be long for Ehrlich – when he<br />
returns from work in Kitzingen in the<br />
evenings, he finally becomes a Winzer. This<br />
constellation will soon come to an end: He<br />
wants to ‘create his own sphere’ and subsist<br />
on his winemaking alone. ‘It is about time<br />
that this should become possible,’ he says.<br />
But there still are setbacks, late spring frosts<br />
cost him more than half of his yield. ‘But we<br />
won’t let that get us down,’ this imaginative<br />
improvisation artist insists, dedicating each<br />
avaialable minute to building his estate,<br />
wanting to do as much as possible with his<br />
own two hands. ‘There is no task I shy away<br />
from,’ Ehrlich says. The next vintage is supposed<br />
to be vinified in his own cellar –<br />
under a new roof.<br />
The wines from the Platinand<br />
Natur-Series<br />
Photos: Weinmanufaktur 3 Zeilen<br />
28 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
AHR<br />
PROTAGONISTS<br />
OF A NEW STYLE<br />
Photo: Mauritius Images
Kalvarienberg Abbey,<br />
Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler<br />
IN THE RIGHT PLACE<br />
AT THE RIGHT TIME<br />
Global warming taught us to fear sunlight and drought. In the Ahr,<br />
however, the 2018 vintage showed that intelligent work in the vineyard<br />
made top wines possible.<br />
WORDS ULRICH SAUTTER<br />
It was all the way back in autumn 2011,<br />
during one of his regular visits to his<br />
Burgundian colleagues for harvest, that<br />
winemaker Paul Schumacher remembers<br />
asking himself: “What do they do differently<br />
there? I had often wondered about this? Old<br />
vines, low yields, we have that, too.” Then<br />
he realised that the Côte d’Or grapes, right<br />
in the middle of harvest, were not really<br />
riper than those at home at that same time.<br />
Once I was back home, I told my wife, “I<br />
think we should start harvesting the Kräuterberg<br />
vineyard tomorrow.” Initially<br />
Schumacher had planned to wait longer and<br />
go for more ripeness. But he followed this<br />
hunch. “I was not sure whether I had made<br />
the right decision for an entire year,” he said.<br />
“The wines were so closed in the beginning.<br />
I only became convinced twelve months<br />
later that the decision to harvest early had<br />
been the right one. You just need a little<br />
more patience with these wines”.<br />
THE REFLECTION<br />
From then onwards, Schumacher’s wines<br />
have steadily moved towards the region’s<br />
best. This gentle, cautious pivoting towards<br />
a different viticultural approach described<br />
by Schumacher, must have been similar for<br />
other Ahr estates too. Even those that used<br />
to favour the region’s classic powerful style<br />
now produce wines at 13- 13.5% alcohol<br />
by volume rather than the 14% plus wines<br />
of the past. Thus we now have a number of<br />
harmonious in-between styles, blending the<br />
‘older’ slightly plump Ahr style with the<br />
32 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
AHR | A PORTRAIT OF THE REGION<br />
desire for freshness. Deutzerhof, recently<br />
under new ownership, is an excellent<br />
example of a style that seeks and manages<br />
to bridge the two poles. In any case, the<br />
two Ahr estates best known outside the<br />
region have long defined their stylistic<br />
crux via a rather individual balance<br />
between ripeness on the one hand and<br />
structure and freshness on the other. If<br />
mineral juiciness is at the core of Meike<br />
and Dörte Näkel’s wines today, it is only a<br />
refinement of what always was important<br />
to their father Werner, too: the piquancy of<br />
fruit and its luminosity. For Alexander<br />
Stodden, however, it is all about finesse –<br />
about proving that the Ahr is capable of<br />
dissolving the material into the ethereal<br />
and still remain expressive. All of these<br />
reflections were already central when the<br />
2018 vintage arrived with its opulent<br />
warmth. As the Falstaff team was tasting<br />
its way through the Ahr wines of this<br />
vintage, one thought became almost<br />
inescapable; that this vintage arrived at<br />
just the right point for the Ahr winemakers,<br />
during a phase of great mental agility. No<br />
matter where each individual estate staked<br />
its preference on the spectrum between<br />
ripeness and freshness, none of the wines<br />
are the result of chance. Even the riper<br />
Paul Schumacher just wants to harvest the best<br />
possible fruit and give his wines the time they need<br />
wines, bear no resemblance to the hot,<br />
jammy wines of the 2003 vintage, not even<br />
the earlier ripening Frühburgunder (aka<br />
Pinot Noir Précoce). What we get instead is<br />
an extraordinary, even spectacular intensity<br />
of fruit, which reflects the warmth within,<br />
but also embraces a particular homogenous<br />
ripeness. At the same time, the wines possess<br />
exactly that depth, that absolute expression,<br />
that extract which can only be achieved<br />
through wise and painstaking viticulture.<br />
Photos: schmidtchen & partner Werbeagentur GmbH, Bernd Schreiner<br />
Weingut Deutzerhof - this estate<br />
can trace its history to the 16th century<br />
33
The Näkel sisters now successfully run<br />
the estate built by their grandparents<br />
and their father Walter<br />
THE PARADIGM SHIFT<br />
One of the protagonists of the new style is<br />
Julia Baltes, neé Bertram. Together with<br />
her husband Benedikt Baltes she represents<br />
the Ahr’s young generation. At their newlyfounded<br />
estate they are really going for it.<br />
Julia holds the 2018 vintage in high regard:<br />
“The wines really are special. Even now in<br />
their youth they have this fabulous<br />
juiciness! But I am also convinced that they<br />
are able to mature for a long time and evolve<br />
well.” When asked what prompted her to<br />
make her Pinots in such an exemplary, taut<br />
fashion, with such tension and inherent<br />
coolness, the 30-year-old remains modest:<br />
“We certainly do not want to reinvent the<br />
wheel. However, I do think that both our<br />
climate and our topography lend<br />
themselves to that. The Ahr is one of the<br />
most northerly regions for Spätburgunder<br />
so it is not a stretch to go for freshness and<br />
lower alcohol.” The couple already manage<br />
to do this with such aplomb that the<br />
Falstaff jury decided to grant their estate<br />
its fourth star. The next steps are already<br />
charted. By autumn 2022 a new winery is<br />
to be completed in Dernau. “We are in the<br />
final planning phase. We are deliberately<br />
taking a lot of time, so that we end up with<br />
exactly what we need,” she says. The new<br />
winery should stand the test of time, of the<br />
years and decades ahead – as with the stylistic<br />
reconstruction of Ahr Spätburgunder<br />
itself.<br />
INFO<br />
Read more about this author in our Tasting Panel<br />
chapter on page 12.<br />
AHR WINE REGION<br />
Growing area<br />
approx. 540 hectares<br />
Administrative Split<br />
1 district (Bereich), 1 collective site (Grosslage),<br />
40 single sites (Einzellagen)<br />
Soils<br />
Loess, volcanic formations, slate<br />
Important Grape Varieties<br />
Spätburgunder, Frühburgunder (aka Pinot Noir<br />
Précoce)<br />
Winegrowers’ Association<br />
Ahrwein e. V., Hauptstrasse 80<br />
53474 Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler<br />
www.ahrwein.de<br />
34 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
AHR | GRANDS CRUS<br />
Rech, Herrenberg - ideal<br />
conditions for capturing sunlight<br />
GRANDS CRUS – AHR<br />
TOP WINES FROM PRIVILEGED SITES OF THE REGION<br />
Photos: provided, Dominik Ketz/www.ahrtal.de<br />
RECH | HERRENBERG<br />
The Herrenberg has parcels with southern<br />
and south-eastern aspects rising from<br />
130-260m/426-853ft. Its former, classic<br />
4ha/9.8acre core was increased to<br />
17ha/42acres. Loess, loess-loam and<br />
greywacke in its central part make up the<br />
soils in some of which ungrafted<br />
Spätburgunder still thrives.<br />
94 2018 Spätburgunder GG<br />
93 2018 Frühburgunder GG<br />
Weingut Jean Stodden, further info on page 51<br />
92 2017 Spätburgunder<br />
Maibachfarm, further info on page 43<br />
90 2018 Spätburgunder<br />
O. Schell, www.weingutschell.de<br />
ALTENAHR | ECK<br />
This site stretches from the ruins of Ahr Castle<br />
to the Ravenley site near Reimerzhoven. It is<br />
the steepest single vineyard of the Ahr, facing<br />
south-southeast, at an altitude of<br />
150-260m/492-853ft with inclines between<br />
40% and 60%. Viticulture has been<br />
documented since 1249. A thin layer of<br />
topsoil covers the approx. 8ha/19.7acres of<br />
greywacke and weathered slate. Its steepest<br />
terraces boasted the first monorail of the Ahr.<br />
94 2018 Spätburgunder GG<br />
Deutzerhof, further info on page 41<br />
92 2019 »Alte Reben 1939« Riesling trocken<br />
91 2017 Spätburgunder Goldkapsel trocken<br />
Weingut Sermann, further info on page 50<br />
DERNAU | PFARRWINGERT<br />
The name of this site is derived from the<br />
term ‘Wingert’ (= vineyard) and was once<br />
in the possession of the Catholic parish<br />
church in Dernau. This south-facing, steep<br />
site measures approx. 10ha/24.7acres<br />
with up to 60% incline between<br />
125-220m/410-722ft. Only 10% of the<br />
site is gently sloped, the rest is steep. Its<br />
35
Selected Grand Cru Sites<br />
Vineyard Area<br />
Villages<br />
ROSENTHAL<br />
Rhine<br />
PFARRWINGERT<br />
TROTZENBERG<br />
Ahrweiler<br />
Ahr<br />
ECK<br />
Altenahr<br />
Dernau<br />
Marienthal<br />
KRÄUTERBERG<br />
Walporzheim<br />
HERRENBERG<br />
Rech<br />
greywacke and slate soils are amongst the<br />
best of the entire valley.<br />
94 2018 Spätburgunder GG<br />
Weingut Meyer-Näkel, further info on page 45<br />
93 2018 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Weingut Bertram-Baltes, further info on page 38<br />
92 2018 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Weingut Sermann, further info on page 50<br />
92 2018 Spätburgunder trocken »R«<br />
91 2018 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Weingut Erwin Riske, further info on page 47<br />
MARIENTHAL | TROTZENBERG<br />
As one of the Ahr valley’s steepest sites, this<br />
concave vineyard faces west to southwest. Its<br />
lack of a full southerly aspect, resulting in<br />
more moderate radiation, has turned the<br />
Trotzenberg into a more desirable site<br />
as global warming advances. The soils are of<br />
slate and greywacke. Nothing is left of the fortress,<br />
or ’Trutzburg’ which once stood at the<br />
crest of this mountain ridge and lent its name.<br />
The Trotzenberg is small with just 3.5ha/8.65<br />
acres. It brings forth wines of robust, mineral<br />
density sometimes even with a certain bite.<br />
94 2018 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Weingut Bertram-Baltes, further info on page 38<br />
93 2018 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Weingut Paul Schumacher,<br />
further info on page 49<br />
93 2011 Pinot noir Grand Réserve<br />
O. Schell, www.weingutschell.de<br />
92 2018 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Weingut Sermann, further info on page 50<br />
WALPORZHEIM | KRÄUTERBERG<br />
A south-facing, exposed terraced site in<br />
Walporzheim, rising from 110-180m/360-<br />
590ft. The 5ha/12.3 acre site has inclines of up<br />
to 60% and 90% of it is planted to<br />
Spätburgunder. The soils are of weathered<br />
slate and greywacke with sandy loam and<br />
very thin topsoil in parts.<br />
96 2009 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Weingut Paul Schumacher, further info on page 49<br />
96 2018 Spätburgunder GG<br />
95 2013 Spätburgunder GG<br />
Weingut Meyer-Näkel, further info on page 45<br />
95 2017 Spätburgunder GG<br />
Weingut Adeneuer, www.adeneuer.de<br />
94 2018 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
94 2017 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Weingut Paul Schumacher, further info on page 49<br />
94 2018 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Weingut Burggarten, further info on page 40<br />
36 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
AHR | GRANDS CRUS<br />
94 2016 Spätburgunder Goldkapsel trocken<br />
Weingut Kriechel, www.weingut-kriechel.de<br />
92 2018 »Hommage GG« Spätburgunder<br />
Weingut Brogsitter, further info on page 39<br />
91 2018 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
WG Mayschoss-Altenahr, further info on page 44<br />
91 2018 Spätburgunder unfiltriert<br />
O. Schell, www.weingutschell.de<br />
AHRWEILER | ROSENTHAL<br />
Of the 50 registered hectares of this site, only<br />
21 hectares are currently under vine, right<br />
opposite the historic old town centre of<br />
Ahrweiler. Facing southwest-to-southeast,<br />
and running alongside the viaduct of an<br />
unfinished railway line at an altitude of<br />
110-180m/360-590ft, the site is divided into<br />
an eastern part of greywacke and a western<br />
part of loam, loss and a mix of the two.<br />
95 2018 »Magna Essentia«<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Weingut Paul Schumacher, further info on page 49<br />
94 2018 Spätburgunder GG<br />
Weingut Jean Stodden, further info on page 51<br />
94 2018 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Weingut Bertram-Baltes, further info on page 38<br />
Deutzerhof, steep site, Altenahr<br />
93 2018 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Weingut Paul Schumacher, further info on page 49<br />
92 2011 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Weinmanufaktur Heiner, weinmanufaktur-heiner.de<br />
92 2018 Spätburgunder GG<br />
Weingut Adeneuer, www.adeneuer.de<br />
92 2018 »Grand Max« Spätburgunder tr.<br />
92 2016 »Grand Max S« Spätburgunder tr.<br />
91 2017 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Weingut Max Schell, further info on page 48<br />
Photos: schmidtchen & partner Werbeagentur GmbH, Bernd Schreiner<br />
View onto Walporzheimer Kräuterberg site<br />
37
WEINGUT BERTRAM-BALTES<br />
Ahrweg 20, 53507 Dernau, T: +49 (2643) 903312<br />
spaetburgunder@bertram-baltes.de<br />
www.bertram-baltes.de<br />
Cellar Door: Wine shop Hardtbergstr., 5, Dernau:<br />
Mondays through Fridays 14–18 hrs, Saturdays 10–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Julia and Benedikt Baltes<br />
Contact: Julia and Benedikt Baltes<br />
Hectares: 7 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
Julia Bertram and Benedikt Baltes are well<br />
on their way to becoming Germany’s<br />
Pinot-Power couple. It is rare for winemakers<br />
to have such a clear focus and follow their<br />
chosen path with such dedication. Everything<br />
they do is about purity, freshness, lightness –<br />
and one could almost mean a model for ‘eternal<br />
precision’. They re-define the character of each<br />
of their sites and even in a vintage like 2018 they<br />
managed to capture incredible freshness. Their<br />
farming is increasingly organic – which is down<br />
to experience and conviction. They have started<br />
a new chapter of German Pinot Noir history.<br />
Congratulations on achieving the fourth star.<br />
96 2018 Mayschoss Mönchberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
A fine flint note indicates the youthfulness and reduction of the<br />
wine. On the palate, elderberry and black cherry with dark fruits.<br />
Depth, spice and maturity work through taut tannins, while fine<br />
acidity keeps everything in check. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
early harvest, needs time. 12 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2018 Dernau Pfarrwingert<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
95 2018 Dernau Goldkaul Spätburgunder tr.<br />
Smoke and flint indicate youthful reduction. On the palate,<br />
these flinty notes also make their mark, but are in a sphere of absolute<br />
freshness, pure, crunchy fruit, invigorating, magical acidity<br />
and fine slate spice. Simply wonderful. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
94 2018 Marienthal Trotzenberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Flint and light smoke still speak of yeast and reduction on<br />
the nose. But then comes fine, pure, almost creamy cherry<br />
fruit, accompanied by some elderberry scent. The freshness<br />
is amazing for 2018, the purity of the fruit – exemplary.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
94 2018 Ahrweiler Rosenthal<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Smoky wood, ample yeast behind it, slate minerality, mint.<br />
Juicy on the palate, relatively astringent tannins, lively acid<br />
backbone, intense mineral definition, overall still very closed,<br />
93 2019 »Blanc de Noir Alte Reben«<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Smoky oak immediately shows that this is not a standard<br />
blanc de noir. Currently, the oak dominates, but sparkling<br />
penetrating freshness is promising. Freshness and texture<br />
demand bottle age. Atypical but wonderful.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
38 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT BROGSITTER<br />
Ahr | WINERIES<br />
Max-Planck-Strasse 1, 53501 Grafschaft-Gelsdorf<br />
T: +49 (2225) 918111, verkauf@brogsitter.de<br />
www.brogsitter.de<br />
Cellar Door: Wine shop, Mondays through Fridays<br />
8–20 hrs, Saturdays 9–20 hrs, Sundays 13–19 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Elmar Sermann, Markus Hallerbach<br />
Contact: Hans-Joachim Brogsitter<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 190,000 (5 % white, 95 % red)/33 ha<br />
Clearly, the key competence of long-established<br />
family estate and wine wholesaler<br />
Brogsitter lies in making red<br />
wines. Accordingly, one Spät- and one Frühburgunder<br />
each grab the top spots. These<br />
wines express the power of their steep sites,<br />
something that keeps re-appearing in the<br />
wines with more or less oak influence – but always<br />
with balance and expressive fruit. Across<br />
the white wines there is a smooth, rich creaminess<br />
that destines them to be enjoyed over and<br />
over again. Acidic freshness, however, is not<br />
necessarily their forte.<br />
93 2018 »Homage Grosses Gewächs«<br />
Walporzheim Alte Lay Spätburgunder tr.<br />
Leather, soft smoke, stone and cherry combine to create an<br />
ethereal aroma that rises headily to the nose. Despite the<br />
vintage, the palate is characterised by fine concentration<br />
and a graceful, firm and elegant structure. Cool freshness<br />
meets full ripeness. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2018 »Homage Grosses Gewächs«<br />
Walporzheim Pfaffenberg Frühburgunder tr.<br />
Something ethereal and a little earthy mingles with the aromatic,<br />
ripe cherry fruit on the nose. On the palate, it is<br />
creamy and gentle, but also fresh and agile. Concentration<br />
and fine tannins combine to create a graceful structure.<br />
Beautiful. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2018 »Homage Grosses Gewächs«<br />
Walporzheim Kräuterberg Spätburgunder tr.<br />
Something almost plummy mingles with the ripe cherry fruit<br />
on the nose, promising maturity and generosity. The palate is<br />
full of fruit and bursting with ripeness. This juiciness is countered<br />
by gentle freshness and velvety tannins that round<br />
everything off. 14,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2018 »Private Edition« Spätburgunder tr.<br />
Ripe black cherry almost has something ethereal on the<br />
nose, reminiscent of Amarena cherry and Kirsch. On the palate,<br />
everything is concentrated and refracted through the<br />
prism of freshness. A fine, expressive, powerful Pinot Noir<br />
with a powerful cherry aroma. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €<br />
91 2018 »Homage Grosses Gewächs«<br />
Walporzheim Alte Lay Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 Ahrweiler Klosterberg<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
90 2018 »Ad Aram Blanc de Noir«<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 Ahrweiler Klosterberg<br />
Grauburgunder trocken<br />
88 2019 »Brogsitter No. 1 Blanc de Noir«<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
91 2018 »Edition B« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
90 2018 »Ad Aram« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
90 2018 »Schiefer« Pinot Noir trocken<br />
Black cherry and smoke fill the nose with their open fragrance.<br />
The palate continues with smoke and cherry-like<br />
nuances. Fine tannins cast their elastic spell over<br />
everything. The ripeness of the vintage comes through<br />
well, but is countered by wonderful freshness.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%, cork, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
39
WEINGUT BURGGARTEN<br />
Landskroner Strasse 61, 53474 Heppingen<br />
T: +49 (2641) 21280, burggarten@t-online.de<br />
www.weingut-burggarten.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Paul-Michael Schäfer<br />
Contact: Gitta and Paul-Josef Schäfer<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 120,000 (20 % white, 80 % red)/15 ha<br />
At Weingut Burggarten, things are happening<br />
step by step: Paul-Michael<br />
Schäfer and his brother Heiko took over<br />
the running of the estate in 2018, and by 2019<br />
they were accepted into the illustrious VDP.<br />
While Heiko Schäfer looks after the vineyards,<br />
Paul-Michael Schäfer’s responsibilities are in the<br />
cellar. The estate is located in Heppingen, at the<br />
warmer end of the Ahr, where you also find heavier<br />
soils. This also finds its way into the Pinot<br />
Noir wines. None of them are lightweights, but<br />
they unite substance with site character, like the<br />
full-bodied GG of the Walporzheimer Kräuterberg,<br />
for instance. Strong performance!<br />
94 2018 Walporzheim Kräuterberg<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Closed in the fragrance, some tobacco and hints of blackcurrant.<br />
Plump and soft, extremely fine, mellow tannins, delicate<br />
thread of acidity, almost lascivious in its plush palate<br />
structure. The warm year is preserved in sweet fruit and expansive<br />
richness. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
93 2018 Bad Neuenahr Sonnenberg<br />
Frühburgunder GG<br />
Smoky, small red berries, discreet wood, some mint. Extremely<br />
elegant on the palate, lots of juiciness, ripe but sufficiently<br />
supporting acidity, very fine tannins. A Frühburgunder<br />
full of fruit, finely woven and in great balance. Long finish.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2018 Heimersheim Burggarten<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
93 2018 Bad Neuenahr Sonnenberg<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Still some new wood on the nose, ripe cherry and also plum,<br />
some liquorice. On the palate there is juicy cherry fruit underpinned<br />
by a ripe, relaxed acidity. It shows the opulence of<br />
the year but also keeps balance, spice and fruitiness. Generous<br />
and elegant. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2018 Bad Neuenahr Schieferlay<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Herbal aromas and cherry in the spicy aroma, fine wood<br />
spice, some violets and lovage. At first soft on the palate,<br />
then with beautiful complexity and traction, spice, fine<br />
sharpness, a pronounced acidity leads the way, lots of substance,<br />
and minerality. Still young 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2018 Walporzheim<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Powerful and fleshy nose with ripe sweet cherry and almond<br />
shell, balsamic vinegar and spicy hints. The powerful<br />
texture shows a discernible acidity that sets the tone. Concentrated<br />
and with clearly highlighted fruit, ripe tannins,<br />
lots of Pinot. 13,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
40 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT DEUTZERHOF<br />
Ahr | WINERIES<br />
Deutzerwiese 2, 53508 Mayschoss<br />
T: +49 (2643) 7264, info@deutzerhof.de<br />
www.deutzerhof.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays<br />
10–12 hrs and 13–17 hrs, Saturdays 10–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Hans-Jörg Lüchau<br />
Contact: Hans-Jörg Lüchau<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 37,000 (12 % white, 88 % red)/7 ha<br />
Great news: Under new ownership but<br />
still going in the same direction, there is<br />
renewed energy at the Deutzerhof. It’s<br />
Spätburgunder from the Altenahrer Eck site is<br />
downright majestic, and its counterpart from<br />
the Neuenahrer Kirchtürmchen is scented and<br />
spicy. The word on the street is that new owner<br />
Jürgen Doetsch is investing heavily – which just<br />
adds to the experience and expertise of Hans-<br />
Jörg Lüchau and his team. From what we can<br />
tell, all the sights are set for this renowned estate<br />
in Mayschoss to return to its former glory of the<br />
1990s and 2000s. If they can keep this pace a<br />
fourth Falstaff star is just a matter of time.<br />
94 2018 Neuenahr Kirchtürmchen<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Pinot-like aroma of kirsch and tree resin, very restrained use<br />
of wood. On the palate there is a supple, even slightly viscous<br />
base and plentiful dry, grainy tannins i, with a penetrating<br />
minerality that lasts in the wine for a long time.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
94 2018 Altenahr Eck Spätburgunder GG<br />
Low sulphur, hints of Marsala and Boskop apple over the cherry-like<br />
fruit aromas. In the glass, the fruit revitalises and refreshes<br />
rather than becoming more oxidative. Creamy on the<br />
palate, with very dense, grainy tannins, powerful minerality,<br />
firm acidity. Experimental and exciting. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
94 2018 Mayschoss Mönchberg<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Elderberry and beeswax, and the gentle essence of fir tree<br />
honey, gingerbread-like aromas and wood spice. On the palate,<br />
lots of fine texture, mellow, grainy, ripe but sufficiently<br />
supporting acidity, clear fruit, integrated alcohol. A mouthful<br />
of Pinot with the best perspective. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2018 Mayschoss Mönchberg<br />
Frühburgunder GG<br />
Lush aroma of plum and plum jam, creamy base on the palate,<br />
mellow tannic core, ripe acidity with perceptible minerality.<br />
A Frühburgunder that displays the depth of the<br />
plumpness of the variety, with lots of fruit and juiciness in<br />
the background. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2017 »Grand Duc Reserve« Spätburgunder tr.<br />
92 2018 Heimersheim Landskrone<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
91 2009 »Melchior C.« Spätburgunder tr.<br />
90 2018 »Alpha & Omega« Frühburgunder tr.<br />
90 2018 »Purpur Alte Reben« Dornfelder tr.<br />
89 2017 Mayschoss Spätburgunder tr.<br />
88 2016 Riesling & Chardonnay brut<br />
90 2018 »Alfred C. Alte Reben« Portugieser tr.<br />
Supple, clear and tightly-woven on the nose with hints of<br />
redcurrants, cool stone, wild strawberry, raspberry, delicate<br />
smoky nuances and floral hints. Fresh berry fruit on<br />
the palate, juicy with lively acidity, dark spice and fine grip<br />
as well as minerality. 13 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
41
WEINGUT JOSTEN & KLEIN<br />
Ringofenstrasse 3, 53424 Remagen<br />
T: +49 (2643) 902550, info@josten-klein.com<br />
www.josten-klein.com<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Marc Josten<br />
Contact: Marc Josten<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 40,000 (50 % white, 50 % red)/5 ha<br />
What Marc Josten is offering is downright<br />
stunning. His wine range is<br />
compact but impressive. Now, that<br />
former business partner Klein is no longer part<br />
of the operation, everything was slowed down –<br />
with positive effect. The wines he presented<br />
were aged for an extra year, and his Spätburgunders<br />
in particular, with their dense and freshness-pervaded<br />
ripeness, benefit from the additional<br />
time. We also have to highlight his spectacular<br />
Sauvignon Blanc, from the Mittelrhein,<br />
and the soothing Spätburgunder Mönchberg<br />
from 2011. It is proof how this site and grape variety<br />
are just made for each other. Magnificent!<br />
94 2017 Leutesdorf Gartenlay<br />
Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Finely spicy scents with incipient development of candied<br />
ginger, gooseberry and apricot. Creamy onset and good wood<br />
frame with substantial mid-palate. Lively acidity, lots of juiciness<br />
behind the dense structure. Powerful, compact and still<br />
full of potential. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
with full maturity, but then begins to open up slowly with<br />
hints of fresh stony notes. This freshness or rather a cool,<br />
peppery spiciness run through this wine that embodies clarity,<br />
depth and elegance. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2017 Mayschoss Laacherberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
95 2011 Mayschoss Mönchberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Ethereal hay flowers, autumn leaves, oak, earth, stone and<br />
fading fruit are unmistakable signs of the true Pinot nature<br />
of this wine. On the palate there is even more fruit and also<br />
an echo of full ripeness, wonderful richness. Excellent!<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork,<br />
94 2017 »Privatedition Prof. Dr. Max Otte«<br />
Mayschoss Mönchberg Spätburgunder tr.<br />
The nose is still closed, but notes of candle wax slowly<br />
emerge. On the palate, detection of saltiness while stony<br />
spiciness intergrates everything. The density and finesse of<br />
the fruit is undisputed and does justice to this iconic Ahr site.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2017 Mayschoss Mönchberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Cinnamon and very ripe cherry fruit first appear on the nose<br />
91 2013 »Blanc de Noir« brut<br />
Ripe yellow fruit, yeast, linden blossom and butter aromas.<br />
Crisp acidity on the palate, dynamic but fine mousse, powerful<br />
body with a noticeable mineral background. A fresh,<br />
unaffected sparkling wine with restrained dosage. Very<br />
good balance. 12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
42 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
MAIBACHFARM<br />
Ahr | WINERIES<br />
Im Maibachtal 100, 53474 Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler<br />
T: +49 (2641) 36679, info@maibachfarm.de<br />
www.maibachfarm.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 10–16 hrs,<br />
Saturdays and Sundays 11–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Alexander Weber<br />
Contact: Alexander Weber<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 30,000 (20 % white, 80 % red)/9 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
There are numerous sceptics who claim<br />
that organic farming is never going to<br />
be fully possible in the steep slopes of<br />
the Ahr. The Maibachfarm estate impressively<br />
proves them wrong. Of course, cultivating<br />
nine hectares of vineyards this way takes additional<br />
effort and is a considerable challenge.<br />
Such heroics demand immense respect, as does<br />
cellar master Alexander Weber’s performance.<br />
He forms part of that ambitious, young generation<br />
of Ahr winemakers. He reveals each<br />
site’s character with great precision. An estate<br />
whose work is groundbreaking.<br />
93 2017 »Glanzstück« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Blackcurrant and redcurrant and cherry are joined by wood<br />
notes and a hint of lovage. The powerful stature reveals a<br />
fine acidity and sensitively-extracted tannins, good balance,<br />
power, suppleness. Shows the minerality of the Ahr with a<br />
Burgundian feel. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2017 Ahrweiler Silberberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Concentrated bouquet with lots of cassis and also black<br />
cherry, flanked by wood spice, coffee beans and dark chocolate;<br />
juicy and fleshy. On the palate there is sweet fruit, lots<br />
of substance, dark berry, ripe acidity and mineral spice.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
88 2019 Blanc de Noir trocken<br />
92 2017 Rech Herrenberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Wood spice on the nose, dark cherries and cassis, blood<br />
orange and spices, such as juniper berry. Herbal on the nose<br />
with ripe fruit, lots of spice and also punch in a powerful<br />
body. A fine acidic vein, cooked blackberry, lots of substance<br />
that is staged with much liveliness. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2017 Heimersheim Burggarten<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Cherry, blackcurrant and redcurrant on the nose, with notes<br />
of toffee, smoke and roasted coffee followed by ground ginger,<br />
allspice and a hint of mint. The powerful body is interspersed<br />
with a fine vein of acidity, dark chocolate, dark berries<br />
and a mineral hue. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2018 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Lush bouquet with ripe cherries and redcurrants, wood<br />
spice and juniper berries. Powerfully built on the palate -<br />
there is strength, volume and spice. The ripe but vivid vein<br />
of acidity provides balance, a good portion of ripe tannins,<br />
full-bodied in the finish. A voluptuous wine.<br />
13 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
43
WINZERGENOSSENSCHAFT<br />
MAYSCHOSS-ALTENAHR<br />
Ahrrotweinstrasse 42, 53508 Mayschoss<br />
T: +49 (2643) 93600, info@wg-mayschoss.de<br />
www.wg-mayschoss.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays and Sundays 10–18 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Rolf Münster<br />
Contact: Matthias Baltes<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 1,400,000 (25 % white, 75 % red)/<br />
150 ha<br />
Impressively, and once again, the co-operative<br />
in Mayschoss-Altenahr has presented<br />
real quality! The Spätburgunders of this<br />
warm vintage show real substance but also<br />
depth and mineral savouriness, like the wines<br />
from the Walporzheimer Alte Lay and the Mayschosser<br />
Laacherberg sites, for instance. Director<br />
Matthias Baltes and his team know how to inspire<br />
impressive body, from their 430 members –<br />
an achievement considering their 150 hectares<br />
under vine and an annual production of<br />
1,400,000 bottles. Thus Germany’s oldest co-operative,<br />
still in existence, continues to be a role<br />
model, way beyond the confines of the region.<br />
92 2018 Walporzheim Alte Lay<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Soft, spicy and fruity aromas of blackberry, cassis and mineral<br />
hints. Powerful and monumental on the palate, broadly<br />
laid out and broadly flowing with a ripe, noticeable acidity,<br />
clear fruit. Powerful tannins, a mineral hue, young and with<br />
merit. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2018 Mayschoss Laacherberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
On the nose some wood and ripe fruit, sweet cherry, blackcurrant<br />
followed by nuances of herbs and spices like allspice. Lots<br />
of substance, volume and power testify to a warm year, generous<br />
in all dimensions, lots of spice, ripe tannins in large doses,<br />
minerality and of course potential! 14,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2018 Walporzheim Kräuterberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Smoky wood, yeasty notes, wormwood and mint. On the palate<br />
there are fine tannins, but also rather obvious alcohol,<br />
comparatively brisk acidity and a creamy background. A wine<br />
with beautiful fruit and noble phenolics, which ends a little<br />
fiery! 15 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2017 Mayschoss Mönchberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Rosehip notes on the fragrant nose, whiffs of fine smoke, redcurrants,<br />
violets, herbs and cherries. On the palate there is<br />
good freshness and lively acidity, well built, slightly astringent<br />
tannins. Pinot expression and smooth balance. Elegant<br />
and spicy. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
89 2019 Weissburgunder trocken<br />
91 2016 Mayschoss Laacherberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
91 2018 »R« Pinot Noir trocken<br />
90 2018 »XII Trauben« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
90 2018 »Goldkapsel« Frühburgunder trocken<br />
88 2018 »Gründerwein« Spätburgunder tr.<br />
90 2018 »Edition Ponsart«<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Blackcurrant and black cherry in the pronounced nose,<br />
also notes of wood spice. Showing a good balance of fruit,<br />
nuances of sour cherry and power on the palate, the tannins<br />
are ripe, the wood is well-integrated, the acidity provides<br />
balance. 14 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
44 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT MEYER-NÄKEL<br />
Ahr | WINERIES<br />
Friedenstrasse 15, 53507 Dernau<br />
T: +49 (2643) 1628, weingut@meyer-naekel.de<br />
www.meyer-naekel.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–12 hrs and<br />
14–17 hrs, Saturdays 11–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Meike, Dörte and Werner Näkel<br />
Contact: Meike, Dörte and Werner Näkel<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 135,000 (8 % white, 92 % red)/22 ha<br />
Sisters Meike and Dörte Näkel embody<br />
the continuity of this top estate in Dernau.<br />
Fresh fruitiness, density and mineral<br />
definition – that is the style their father Werner<br />
introduced to the Ahr almost 30 years ago,<br />
which in those days was downright revolutionary.<br />
His daughters are now fine-tuning<br />
tannins to an even greater degree and ensuring<br />
that this diva -Spätburgunder continues to feel<br />
right at home in the steep Ahr vineyards, enduring<br />
global warming. What they came up<br />
with in 2018 is simple brilliance. There are Pinot<br />
Noirs that are deserving of their name:<br />
world class, yet preserving local character.<br />
96 2018 Walporzheim Kräuterberg<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Violets, blackberry and elderberry, fresh and well-defined<br />
aromas. Also fruit-driven on the palate, almost fruit-juicelike<br />
in its intensity. Silky, dense tannin and an immensely<br />
penetrating tactile minerality. The sublimation of a Pinot<br />
from slate! 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
plum and redcurrant. On the palate there is silky extracted<br />
tannins, fine juice and flow, nevertheless plump due to the<br />
vintage. Spicy, fine tartness, finely harmonised acidity, precise<br />
and sensual. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2018 Neuenahr Sonnenberg<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
94 2018 Dernau Pfarrwingert<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Mineral on the nose followed by scents of tree resin, green<br />
tea, mineral cherry and cassis. Depicting maturity in all components,<br />
but still surprisingly fresh. Mellow tannins, good<br />
volume, with texture but also with generosity, ripe acidity,<br />
minerality that ends with a plump fruity smoothness.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
94 2018 Ahrweiler Silberberg<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Slightly restrained but slight hints of dark berries and dark<br />
chocolate, also green tea and bitter-mineral notes. Creamy<br />
base, almost sweet on the mid palate, mellow-grainy tannins,<br />
dense, very powerful extract, a bold wine with a very<br />
long life expectancy. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2018 »S« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Appealing nose with very fine fruit, elderberry, sweet cherry,<br />
91 2019 »Illusion« Blanc de Noir trocken<br />
Delicate cream colour. Grapey on the nose, very pure Pinot.<br />
Fresh and juicy on the palate, fine acidity, slightly salty,<br />
lean and yet expressive. Natural, unadorned fruit of the<br />
greatest delicacy. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap , €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
45
WEINGUT NELLES<br />
Göppinger Strasse 13a,<br />
53474 Bad Neuenahr-Heimersheim<br />
T: +49 (2641) 24349, info@weingut-nelles.de<br />
www.weingut-nelles.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–12 hrs and<br />
14–18 hrs, Saturdays 10–14 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Philip Nelles<br />
Contact: Philip Nelles<br />
Hectares: 9 ha<br />
Even though the the year 1479 screams<br />
from every label and cork – noting the<br />
first mention of ancestor, Peter Nelis who<br />
founded and farmed a vineyard here in “buysch<br />
portzen”; since then, father and son team Thomas<br />
and Philip Nelles have managed to cope well<br />
with the current climatic challenges. Their Spätburgunders<br />
are characterised by freshness and<br />
manage to unite a sense of stoniness and freshness<br />
with real elegance. Their Grosse Gewächse<br />
really are ‘gross’, i.e. great, and demand bottle<br />
age. The entry level wines, on the other hand,<br />
brim with energy and fruit and promise crunch<br />
and enjoyment, also when slightly chilled.<br />
94 2017 »SL« Bad Neuenahr Schieferlay<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Discreet smoky wood notes, dark raspberry, sweet cherry<br />
and spicy-slate scents. Poised on the palate, viscous base,<br />
followed by juicy fruit and fine, but also grippy tannins, combines<br />
texture with finesse, translates the warmth of the year<br />
into richness. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
an energy that is just bursting with ripe but fresh fruit. This is<br />
a Pinot that is also fun when chilled. The berry aromas come<br />
up trumps. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap , €€<br />
88 2019 »Blanc de Noir«<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
94 2018 »B-52« Heimersheim Burggarten<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Smoke and notes of leather dominate the nose initially. On<br />
the palate, the smoothest ripe cherry comes to the fore,<br />
characterised by freshness. Behind these notes are shimmers<br />
of stony spice and resonant oak. The wine has depth,<br />
maturity, but above all elegance. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2018 »B-48« Heimersheim Landskrone<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Delicate notes of smoky-oak entwines with blackberry and<br />
black cherry aromas. On the palate, gentle ripe supple tannins<br />
enrobe this aromatic fruit, while fine acidity counteracts<br />
the ripeness. A smoky wine that represents the vintage well.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
89 2018 »Ruber« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
There is something pleasantly impetuous about the smoke<br />
and crushed blackberries on the nose. There is a freshness,<br />
91 2018 »1Ahr« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Ripe, black cherries and smoke are hard to contain on the<br />
nose. On the palate, however, concentrated freshness sets<br />
the tone and frames the fruit ripeness of 2018. Gentle tannins<br />
encompass everything in their elastic web. Ready to<br />
enjoy, but also able to evolve. 13,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
46 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT ERWIN RISKE<br />
Ahr | WINERIES<br />
Wingertstrasse 26–28, 53507 Dernau<br />
T: +49 (2643) 8406, weingut-riske@t-online.de<br />
www.weingut-riske.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays by appointment,<br />
Saturdays 10–18 hrs, Sundays 15–18 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Jan Riske<br />
Contact: Jan Riske<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 40,000 (20 % white, 80 % red)/8 ha<br />
A<br />
new stylistic direction is clearly evident<br />
at Weingut Erwin Riske. The<br />
wines offer an obvious freshness and<br />
density, while the purity of the fruit is a real<br />
achievement. The young wines still rely on oak<br />
– even if the fruit underneath does not necessarily<br />
require such support. Nonetheless, Jan<br />
Riske and his father are fine-tuning their quality<br />
and the wines themselves have sufficient<br />
substance to deal with the oak. The freshness<br />
evident in the hot vintage of 2018 also points<br />
to a promising future for this long-established<br />
Dernau estate.<br />
92 2018 Dernau Hardtberg<br />
Frühburgunder trocken<br />
Smoke and elderberry on the nose lead into something almost<br />
ethereal. On the palate, freshness, concentration; the<br />
aromas prevail. Delicate and gentle, ripe, fine tannins nestle<br />
against the cherry-like fruit. Something pleasantly bitter<br />
emerges discreetly. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2018 Dernau Pfarrwingert<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Some dark, heavy oak overlays the cherry fruit on the nose.<br />
With a little air contact more freshness is revealed. On the<br />
palate, creamy, ripe but really aromatically expressive; cherry<br />
notes combine with velvety tannins. Round and smooth.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2018 »R« Bad Neuenahr Sonnenberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
92 2018 »R« Dernau Pfarrwingert<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Oak, toast, smoke and ripe cherry set a rich tone. Fine, ripe<br />
fruit purity shines through on the palate, which also holds a<br />
lot of freshness. It needs bottle age to bring out the inherent<br />
elegance. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2018 Dernau Hardtberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Deep, resonant oak tones reveal something autumnal - heralding<br />
a winter wine. The palate is fresher, but has a nice density<br />
of ripe, fine cherry fruit and equally ripe tannins. The finish<br />
is fresh and animating. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
89 2018 »Schieferturm« Spätburgunder tr.<br />
Cassis and elderberry are fragrant and aromatic on the<br />
nose. On the palate, even more fullness of fruit gathers:<br />
everything is round, almost broad, so much ripeness and the<br />
warmth of the vintage is captured. But freshness and aromatics<br />
catch up again on the finish. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap , €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
47
WEINGUT MAX SCHELL<br />
Rotweinstrasse 41, 53506 Rech<br />
T: +49 (2643) 3580, info@max-schell.de<br />
www.max-schell.de<br />
Cellar Door: Wine shop:<br />
Mondays through Sundays 10–18 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Wolfgang Schulze-Icking<br />
Contact: Wolfgang Schulze-Icking<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 22,000 (15 % white, 85 % red)/3 ha<br />
Even in the tiny Ahr region you can still<br />
find star estates that fly below the radar.<br />
Max Schell is now run under its third<br />
generation by Wolfgang Schulze-Icking, grandson<br />
of the founder, with his wife Katharina.<br />
From top sites like Ahrweiler Silberberg and<br />
Ahrweiler Rosenthal; Schulze-Icking makes<br />
wines that combine substance with generosity.<br />
The fourth generation is already gearing up:<br />
Daughter Annika has just finished her winemaking<br />
apprenticeship and started her oenology<br />
degree. An additional hectare of vines was<br />
planted, too. So, we shall be hearing a lot more<br />
from this estate in the coming years.<br />
93 2018 Ahrweiler Silberberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Soft cherry and cheerful scents, a very delicately-scented<br />
nose, followed by straw and dried leaves. Soft and full-bodied<br />
on the palate, with cherry, blackberry and delicate cassis nuances.<br />
Nicely integrated with juicy acidity, seems very fluid,<br />
an earthy-essenced long finish. 14,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2017 Ahrweiler Rosenthal<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
92 2018 »Pulsahr« Frühburgunder trocken<br />
Judging by the colour, this is probably unfiltered. A delicate nose<br />
of red berries, violets, dense and also soft, on the palate earthy,<br />
mature, delicately tart with exciting astringency, still seems<br />
very young, tremendously long finish. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2017 »Alte Reben« Frühburgunder trocken<br />
Fragrant, animating nose of herbs and very delicate clove,<br />
also a whiff of smoke, graphite and leather. On the palate,<br />
young and delicate with berry-fruited freshness and juiciness<br />
- enormous finish. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2016 »Grand Max S« Ahrweiler Rosenthal<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Wild berries, rock candy, clear new wood. On the palate there is<br />
animating fruit, fine-grained tannins, juiciness with a smooth<br />
foundation. Seamlessly-integrated acidity. In the finish notes<br />
of plum, indicating very ripe grapes, compact extract.<br />
14 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2018 »Grand Max« Ahrweiler Rosenthal<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
New wood, blackberry and chocolate scents. Very ripe<br />
fruit, supple, almost creamy on the palate, discernible<br />
acidity and and dense, grainy tannin that intensifies to astringency<br />
in the finish. In addition, a slight sweetness in the<br />
fruit. Good potential, needs time. 13,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
48 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Ahr | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT PAUL SCHUMACHER<br />
Marienthaler Strasse 6, 53474 Marienthal<br />
T: +49 (2641) 4345, ps-info@weingut-ps.de<br />
www.weingut-ps.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Paul Schumacher<br />
Contact: Paul Schumacher<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 25,000 (15 % white, 85 % red)/4 ha<br />
The fact that Paul Schumacher decided<br />
to stop using new barrels in 2016 does<br />
not only depict much clearer fruit in his<br />
wines, but also shines a new spotlight on his<br />
persona. This winemaker is the calming influence<br />
amongst Ahr winemakers. He goes about<br />
his work with in a relaxed manner and prefers<br />
to let his wines do the talking. He skilfully interpreted<br />
the 2018 vintage and managed to<br />
create the essential balance of substance, spice,<br />
minerality and elegance for his Pinot Noir. His<br />
majestic “Magna Essentia” is one of the regions<br />
finest!<br />
95 2018 »Magna Essentia« Ahrweiler<br />
Rosenthal Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Dark berry scents like wild blueberry and herbaceous aromas;<br />
very clear and fresh. On the palate, juicy and fruit-driven,<br />
supple base, fine-grained tannins, ripe acidity and a completely<br />
unforced construction that is, however, immensely<br />
rich in content and potential. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
animating berry spiciness. On the palate there is a grainy texture,<br />
taut tannins, still demanding, but also very mineral and<br />
in its taut form long-lasting and full of potential.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2017 »PurPinot« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
94 2018 Walporzheim Kräuterberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
A compact and dense cluster of cassis, wild blueberry and<br />
warm slate. On the palate there is a firm core that still needs<br />
to be unravelled. Suppleness shows through. Clear mineral<br />
definition, vivacious acidity and fine tannins. Pinot with great<br />
potential. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2018 Marienthal Trotzenberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Beautifully interwoven Pinot nose with herbs, violets, fine<br />
cherry fruit, cassis and promise of pleasure. Also tightly woven<br />
on the palate, immensely dense and entwined with minerality<br />
and an imminent power that conveys elegance and<br />
tension respectively. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2018 Ahrweiler Rosenthal<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Fragrant, floral, violets and very subtle use of wood plus an<br />
92 2018 »Alegria« Frühburgunder trocken<br />
Cherry and fine plum on the nose, herbal and stony hints<br />
and fine smoke. Herbally accentuated on the palate, distinctive<br />
tannins, not dwindled down like many Frühburgunder,<br />
but with its own unique profile. Minerality and accomplished.<br />
13 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
49
WEINGUT SERMANN<br />
Seilbahnstrasse 22, 53505 Altenahr<br />
T: +49 (2643) 7105, info@sermann.de<br />
www.sermann.de<br />
Cellar Door: Thursdays through Tuesdays 10–18 hrs<br />
and by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Lukas Sermann<br />
Contact: Lukas Sermann<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 60,000 (40 % white, 60 % red)/8 ha<br />
Lukas Sermann is upping his game. He<br />
has extended his holdings with new parcels<br />
in the Recher Herrenberg, Neuenahrer<br />
Sonnenberg and Altenahrer Eck – the<br />
latter even boasting ungrafted, old vines. We<br />
can also discern a new, clear focus on linear, nofrills<br />
wines, as well as the intention to really define<br />
each site clearly, especially the cooler sites<br />
of the Upper Ahr. The “Alte Reben 1939” Riesling<br />
has incredible charm, the Dernauer Schieferlay<br />
Spätburgunder shows the deepest elegance<br />
and the Ahr Kabinett style twinkles playfully<br />
but with aplomb. We can also look forward<br />
to the single-site Sekts in the near future.<br />
92 2019 »Alte Reben 1939« Altenahr Eck<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Sometimes it's as if you can smell texture. Here, the exceedingly<br />
chewy, fresh style with aromas of fresh and dried lemon<br />
peel already stands out on the nose. On the palate, it's a little<br />
rounder, creamier too, but wonderfully pithy. The finish is<br />
pure lemon. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2019 »Auf Graben« Altenahr Übigberg<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
A hint of reductive flint mingles seductively with the gentle<br />
smoke of oak. On the palate, dewy but juicy ripe stone fruit<br />
merges. The finish is somewhat restrained, but the freshness<br />
is wonderful. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2018 Dernau Pfarrwingert<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Some dried fruit, notes of bitter chocolate, but also ripe,<br />
fresh black cherries play on the nose. On the palate, freshness<br />
merges, bringing out the ripeness of the vintage even<br />
more. Velvety texture and real density adorn the wine for further<br />
ageing. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2019 »Wurzelecht« Altenahr Eck<br />
Riesling Auslese<br />
Brilliant pale pink-golden colour, aroma of white flowers and<br />
also smoky, flinty notes. Mineral, lightly caramelised sugar<br />
on the palate with a crunchy refreshing acidity, very long animating<br />
finish, great drinking flow. 8,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
89 2019 »Von den Terrassen« Altenahr Eck<br />
Riesling Kabinett trocken<br />
89 2019 »Gypsy One« Spätburgunder<br />
Blanc de Noir Landwein trocken<br />
92 2018 Marienthal Trotzenberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
90 2018 Frühburgunder trocken<br />
89 2018 Ahrweiler Spätburgunder trocken<br />
91 2019 Altenahr Eck Riesling Spätlese<br />
93 2018 Dernau Schieferlay<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Ripe cherry fruit really shimmers through the intense<br />
smoky notes, there is a hint of liquorice too. The ripeness of<br />
the vintage is well-captured, but interwoven with real<br />
freshness. Very fine tannins which are silky and dense and<br />
give the finish real class. 12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
50 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT JEAN STODDEN<br />
Ahr | WINERIES<br />
Rotweinstrasse 7–9, 53506 Rech<br />
T: +49 (2643) 3001, info@stodden.de<br />
www.stodden.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–12 hrs and<br />
13–18 hrs, Saturdays 10–13 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Alexander Stodden<br />
Contact: Alexander Stodden<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 45,000 (5 % white, 95 % red)/7 ha<br />
One might be apprehensive about tasting<br />
the Pinot Noirs of the warm 2018<br />
vintage; but in the case of Alexander<br />
Stodden, fear not. The wines are so delicate<br />
and precise, one would think there was some<br />
sort of divine intervention undertaken between<br />
the weather and vines! Even the Frühburgunder,<br />
which, by rights, should suffer<br />
most from the heat, comes with an extra helping<br />
of density as well as real delicacy. However,<br />
the crowning glory is the Mönchberg auction<br />
wine and the Alte Reben from Herrenberg.<br />
Subtle grandeur!<br />
96 2018 »Alte Reben« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Red cherry scents in the complex aroma followed by redcurrants<br />
and herbal notes with hints of rosemary and clove.<br />
On the palate slender construction with good layering and<br />
concentration that seems almost weightless, sour cherry,<br />
finely-woven tannins and a sensitive vein of acidity. Precise<br />
yet elaborate. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
palate, great substance, impeccably ripe, mellow-grainy tannins.<br />
Offers an ethereal and a solid side, accompanied by<br />
mineral tension. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
93 2018 Bad Neuenahr Sonnenberg<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
95 2018 Mayschoss Mönchberg<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Mineral-spicy aroma, with small red berries, almond, mint<br />
and tree resin. The palate reveals an extremely fine extraction,<br />
finest, almost weightless tannins. A lively thread of<br />
acidity, accentuated by mineral nuances. A subtle Pinot Noir<br />
with great inner strength. 13 Vol.-%. cork<br />
94 2018 Ahrweiler Rosenthal<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Complex aromas of new wood, caramel, almond, dark berry,<br />
sweet cherry and a hint of herbs. After air contact also "wild"<br />
with spontaneous fermentation notes. Soft onset, then a<br />
dense, mellow tannin texture, firm acidity, minerality, compact<br />
finish. Needs time! 13 Vol.-%. cork<br />
94 2018 Rech Herrenberg Spätburgunder GG<br />
Delicate and fragrant: mineral-nuanced sweet cherry, herbal-spicy<br />
notes, bay leaf and juniper. Dense and grippy on the<br />
93 2018 Rech Herrenberg Frühburgunder GG<br />
Blueberry on the nose, teriyaki sauce and cherry compote,<br />
fresh bay leaf and zesty orange notes prevail. Creamy on<br />
the palate, there is mild acidity and fine fruit, the strong<br />
tannins provide contour, has the substance and spice of<br />
the vintage, but also elegance and depth.<br />
13 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
51
Mayschoss<br />
PASSIONATE<br />
HOSTS<br />
TOGETHER WITH THE REGION’S WINEMAKERS – ABSOLUTE EXPERTS<br />
WHEN IT COMES TO GASTRONOMY – FALSTAFF HAS CAREFULLY CHOSEN<br />
AND COLLATED THE BEST ADDRESSES FOR EATING,<br />
DRINKING AND STAYING.<br />
Ruland<br />
53505 Altenahr<br />
This hotel restaurant offers creative and rustic<br />
cuisine, prepared from fresh regional produce.<br />
Top wines from the Ahr valley are served alongside.<br />
This can also be enjoyed on the sunny terrace<br />
and in the beer garden when the weather is nice.<br />
Eifelstube<br />
53474 Bad<br />
Neuenahr-Ahrweiler<br />
The Eifelstube is located in the middle of the historic<br />
old town, the rustic atmosphere in the comfortable<br />
dining room goes well with the cuisine,<br />
which serves classics such as ox cheeks or venison<br />
goulash. Every month, one particular estate's<br />
wines are put in the spotlight.<br />
Brückenstrasse 6<br />
+49 (2643) 8318<br />
www.hotel-ruland.de<br />
Ahrhutstrasse 26<br />
+49 (2641) 34850<br />
www.eifelstube-ahrweiler.de<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Erwin Riske<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Max Schell<br />
52 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Steinheuers<br />
Poststuben <br />
53474 Bad<br />
Neuenahr-Ahrweiler<br />
The Alte Post convinces in every respect: Patron<br />
Stefan Steinheuer and chef Christian Binder impress<br />
with their intuition for harmonious flavours.<br />
The wine cellar is a family affair: Sommelière<br />
Désirée Steinheuer can draw upon a most<br />
impressive cellar here.<br />
AHR | INNS AND RESTAURANTS<br />
Landskroner Strasse 110<br />
+49 (2641) 94860<br />
www.steinheuers.de<br />
<br />
Food: 46 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 19 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
91<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
Bahnsteig 1 <br />
53508 Mayschoss<br />
Thorsten Rech has turned the historic train station<br />
into a worthwhile stop for home-style cooking.<br />
His menu offers plenty of down-to-earth<br />
dishes, including venison ragout, ox cheeks<br />
braised in Pinot Noir and the classic ‘Himmel un<br />
Äd’. Varied selection of German wines.<br />
Hofgarten <br />
53507 Dernau<br />
The Meyer-Näkel family is not just known for<br />
their first-rate red wines: their lovely inn is popular<br />
beyond the confines of the Ahr region and<br />
loved for the fact that hearty regional fare is<br />
served here. The selection of cold cuts, known as<br />
‘Ahrtaler Vesperteller’ is a must-try.<br />
Eurodeplatz 1<br />
+49 (2643) 9022435<br />
www.genussbahnhof.de<br />
<br />
Weinhaus<br />
Kläs & Sohn <br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 17 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
86<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
53508 Mayschoss<br />
The friendly family hotel is also a good address<br />
when it comes to cooking. Sebastian Kläs is responsible<br />
for the smart restaurant and keeps it<br />
on course for gastronomic success with his finely<br />
executed, down-to-earth dishes. Good wine selection.<br />
Bachstrasse 26<br />
+49 (2643) 1540<br />
www.hofgarten-dernau.de<br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 7 | 10<br />
Ahr-Rotweinstrasse 50<br />
+49 (2643) 1657<br />
www.weinhaus-klaes.de<br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 17 | 20<br />
Drinks: 17 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
<br />
86<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
<br />
85<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
80–84<br />
85–89<br />
90–94<br />
95–100 Points<br />
53
Photo: Tourist Info Durbach/Florian Vogt<br />
BADEN<br />
PRESERVING<br />
BIODIVERSITY
View of the Schambachtal: home of Weingut Höfflin<br />
PROTECTED SPECIES<br />
Baden – bona fide Pinot. Or are we missing something?<br />
WORDS ULRICH SAUTTER<br />
Each year, it is roughly the same.<br />
During events like the Mainzer<br />
Weinbörse (the vintage presentation<br />
of the VDP estates each April in Mainz)<br />
where winemakers from all German<br />
regions present their wines to the trade and<br />
press, with Baden’s Spätburgunders being<br />
amongst the ‘must-taste’ wines. Most of<br />
the attendees are of course happy to pass<br />
Chardonnay at the Baden stands and have<br />
a quick sip of Weissburgunder and perhaps<br />
even a Grauburgunder? “Go on then,<br />
alright, just a sip!” “There’s also Riesling”<br />
– “oh, no, rather not, no thank you, I have<br />
to get going…”<br />
Nobody will complain openly about this familiar<br />
pattern: Baden winemakers are after<br />
all very happy that their Pinot-varieties<br />
enjoy such demand. But dig a little deeper<br />
and there is real frustration. Why? Because<br />
Baden, this long region which stretches 160<br />
miles from its subregions of Badische Bergstrasse<br />
to Markgräflerland and almost 170<br />
miles from the subregions of Taubertal to<br />
Bodensee (Lake Constance), has a wealth<br />
of local traditions which throughout<br />
history have always endured the prevailing<br />
Pinot-paradigm without ever getting subsumed<br />
into it.<br />
Thus, once we had finished all the tastings<br />
for this guide, in order to do our own little<br />
bit for biodiversity, we counted how many<br />
of the best 200 Baden wines were made<br />
from grapes other than Pinot-varieties or<br />
Chardonnay. We tasted a total of 597 wines<br />
from Baden, and focused on the best-rated.<br />
For starters, there were two 94-point wines<br />
of real exoticism: a sweet Muskateller made<br />
from dried grapes by Weingut Moosmann<br />
in the Breisgau subregion, and the bone-dry<br />
Gutedel »Jaspis 10hoch4« by Hanspeter<br />
Ziereisen from the Markgräflerland<br />
subregion. Four non-Pinots scored 93<br />
points: two experimental, two classic. In<br />
the former camp we have a skin-fermented<br />
Souvignier Gris, a disease-resistant ‘Piwi’-<br />
56 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
BADEN | A PORTRAIT OF THE REGION<br />
Photos: Mauritius Images/Travel Collection/Georg Knoll, provided<br />
variety by Weingut Höfflin in the subregion<br />
of Kaiserstuhl and Martin Wassmer’s<br />
Syrah from Markgräflerland.<br />
The classics are represented by a<br />
Blaufränkisch ‘Dicker Franz’ by Burg<br />
Ravensburg in the subregion of Kraichgau.<br />
Here you need to know that Lemberger,<br />
aka Blaufränkisch, has long been at home<br />
in the easterly Kraichgau from whence<br />
you are literally in viewing distance of the<br />
variety’s heartland of Württemberg. The<br />
same can of course be said for Riesling in<br />
the Ortenau subregion. It is represented in<br />
these top-scoring wines by the Varnhalter<br />
Klosterbergfelsen by Weingut Nägelsförst.<br />
Continuing with Riesling: The 92-point<br />
group has four Rieslings, three of which<br />
hail from Ortenau: “Georg Arbogast” by<br />
Freiherr zu Franckenstein, “Klingelberger<br />
K” by Markgraf von Baden and<br />
“Terrassenlage” by Weingut Kopp. This<br />
quartet is made complete by the climate<br />
change beneficiary “Meersburg Rieschen”<br />
by Staatsweingut Meersburg on Lake<br />
Constance.<br />
Furthermore, we can count three Traminers<br />
or Gewürztraminers: one from Markgräflerland<br />
(Weingut Rieger), one from<br />
Konrad and Monika Schlör – Weingut Schlör<br />
Julius and Matthias Höfflin in their cellar<br />
Kaiserstuhl (Höfflin, made as an orange<br />
wine), one from Bodensee (Staatsweingut<br />
Meersburg). Then there are three Gutedel<br />
wines from Markgräflerland, two from<br />
Weingut Blankenhorn (»Courage« and<br />
»Le Clocher«) as well as the orange<br />
wine “El Fayoum“ by Claus Schneider.<br />
There are two Müller-Thurgaus (namely<br />
“Belemnit Wildfang“ by Berthold Clauss/<br />
Bodensee and a skin-fermented version<br />
from Weingut Höfflin/Kaiserstuhl). There<br />
are two Muskatellers (Bercher/Kaiserstuhl<br />
and Wöhrle/Breisgau), one Sauvignon<br />
(Schlumberger-Bernhart/Markgräflerland)<br />
and last but certainly not least a field blend<br />
(WeingutTrautwein/Kaiserstuhl).<br />
In fairness, we should also count<br />
Schwarzriesling (aka Pinot Meunier)<br />
among the varieties that don’t represent<br />
Baden’s Pinot-mainstream, even if this<br />
variety is of course part of the Pinot family.<br />
But another Baden subregion is staking<br />
its claims for this variety: the Taubertal<br />
(Tauber Valley). Three wines with a<br />
score of 92 bear eloquent witness: one<br />
by Konrad Schlör, two from Becksteiner<br />
Winzer.<br />
You could now easily point out that just<br />
25 wines of the top-scoring 200 are not<br />
made from Pinot-varieties or Chardonnay:<br />
57
Anne-Christin and Christoph Trautwein<br />
of the eponymous Weingut Trautwein<br />
a mere eighth. What overwhelming evidence<br />
for the prevalence of Weiss-, Grau and<br />
Spätburgunder and Chardonnay. Be gone<br />
with these strange varieties! The Mosel,<br />
for instance, has founded its world fame<br />
on just one singular variety, Riesling. Likewise,<br />
in Burgundy you only have Pinot Noir<br />
and Chardonnay, let us take this route,<br />
too! This way of thinking has obvious<br />
advantages: a clear profile creates prestige<br />
and this in turn, with a strengthened economic<br />
basis, helps to sharpen the profile<br />
further. The comparison to these paragons,<br />
however, does not really stack up. Even<br />
in the Mosel, Riesling accounts for just<br />
62.2% of plantings (according to DWI figures<br />
from July 2019) while certainly Burgundy<br />
boasts varieties beyond Pinot Noir<br />
and Chardonnay: the historic white variety<br />
Aligoté even has its own AOC (Bouzeron)<br />
in the Côte Chalonnaise. In northern<br />
Burgundy, bordering the Loire valley, both<br />
Sauvignon Blanc und Fié Gris thrive. And<br />
ultimately Beaujolais also forms part of<br />
Burgundy with almost 20,000ha/49,500<br />
acres of Gamay. The sharpest profiling is<br />
not created by imitation but undoubtedly<br />
by expressing the local conditions in their<br />
full glory. Baden thus has every reason<br />
to pursue its geographic, climatic, social<br />
and, partially, also stylistic proximity to<br />
Burgundy. So this, we certainly hope, will<br />
continue to allow space for the delectable<br />
pleasure promise of the local niche.<br />
INFO<br />
Read more about this author in our Tasting Panel<br />
chapter on page 12.<br />
BADEN WINE REGION<br />
Growing area<br />
approx. 15.800 hectares<br />
Administrative Split<br />
9 districts (Bereiche), 16 collective sites<br />
(Grosslagen), 306 single sites (Einzellagen)<br />
Soils<br />
Loess, volcanic formations, Triassic limestone<br />
Important Grape Varieties<br />
Spätburgunder, Weissburgunder, Grauburgunder,<br />
Riesling, Gutedel, Müller-Thurgau<br />
Winegrowers’ Associations<br />
Badischer Wein GmbH, Basler Landstrasse<br />
28b, 79111 Freiburg, www.badischerwein.de<br />
Badischer Weinbauverband, Merzhauser<br />
Strasse 115, 79100 Freiburg<br />
www.badischer-weinbauverband.de<br />
58 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
BADEN | GRANDS CRUS<br />
The Durbach Valley trumps with its weathered,<br />
granitic soils and its mild climate<br />
GRANDS CRUS – BADEN<br />
TOP WINES FROM PRIVILEGED SITES OF THE REGION<br />
NEUWEIER | MAUERBERG<br />
DURBACH | PLAUELRAIN<br />
Photos: Manuel Debus, Weingut Heger/Baschi Bender, Deutsches Weininstitut<br />
Weathered porphyry defines the soils of this<br />
site which today encompasses 40ha/98<br />
acres and is almost entirely planted to<br />
Riesling. The original 5ha/12.3 acres of the<br />
steep site have terraces held in place by dry<br />
stone walls. Facing southwest-to-south, the<br />
site has an incline between 50-75%. The<br />
extended parcels overwhelmingly face<br />
southeast, some parcels west and some even<br />
northwest.<br />
92 2016 »Mauerwein« Riesling GG<br />
92 2014 »Mauerwein« Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Schloss Neuweier<br />
www.weingut-schloss-neuweier.de<br />
91 2018 »Tradition« Riesling trocken<br />
Weingut Holger Dütsch, further info on page 76<br />
90 2018 Riesling trocken<br />
Weingut Knapp, further info on page 98<br />
90 2018 »SI« Riesling trocken<br />
Bio Weingut Maier, further info on page 102<br />
The Plauelrain site sits on the southern side<br />
of the Durbach valley which extends from<br />
the east for 9 miles towards the Rhine. Until<br />
1971 the site had 17ha/42 acres but was<br />
extended to 190ha/469 acres. The extension<br />
included east-and west-facing parcels as<br />
well as almost flat land to this top site<br />
whose best parcels are on the north-western<br />
edge of the village of Durbach have an<br />
incline of up to 80% and face south-southeast.<br />
A continuous crown of forest protects<br />
the vineyard from cold winds. The soils are<br />
of weathered granite which in some parts is<br />
covered by just 40cm/16 inches of topsoil.<br />
Altitude: 200-320m/656-984ft.<br />
93 2019 »Am Bühl« Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Andreas Laible, www.andreas-laible.com<br />
91 2019 Klingelberger (Riesling)<br />
Spätlese trocken<br />
WG Durbach, www.durbacher.de<br />
59
a 20% incline, its steepest up to 80%. The<br />
soils are of weathered volcanic rock with<br />
partially very thin topsoils of loess which<br />
was brought in by winegrowers to enrich<br />
the poor soil.<br />
One of Germany’s most climatically<br />
blessed sites: Ihringer Winklerberg<br />
OBERROTWEIL | KIRCHBERG<br />
The best site of the inner Kaiserstuhl is<br />
just 3.3ha/8.1 acres small and with inclines<br />
between 10-30% not particularly steep.<br />
What is unique, however, is the weathered<br />
volcanic soil of the Kirchberg. It is covered<br />
in countless nut-sized stones expelled by the<br />
Kaiserstuhl volcano during its active phase.<br />
Even more unusually, there are inclusions<br />
of limestone in the volcanic soil. Altitude:<br />
200-260m/656-853ft.<br />
95 2018 Spätburgunder GG<br />
Weingut Salwey, further info on page 114<br />
94 2018 Spätburgunder GG<br />
Weingut Franz Keller – Schwarzer Adler,<br />
further info on page 93<br />
94 2018 Chardonnay GG<br />
Weingut Franz Keller – Schwarzer Adler, page 93<br />
94 2017 Weissburgunder GG<br />
Weingut Salwey,<br />
further info on page 114<br />
ACHKARREN | SCHLOSSBERG<br />
This site is composed of a series of four<br />
spectacular amphitheatres whose 79ha/195<br />
acres rise from 190-320m/623-1049ft from<br />
west-to-southwest. Its gentlest slopes have<br />
94 2018 Grauburgunder GG<br />
Weingut Dr. Heger, further info on page 83<br />
93 2018 »GC« Grauburgunder<br />
Spätlese trocken<br />
Weingut Martin Wassmer,<br />
further info on page 125<br />
92 2018 Grauburgunder GG<br />
Weingut Franz Keller – Schwarzer Adler,<br />
further info on page 93<br />
92 2017 Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
Weingut Peter Wagner, further info on page 123<br />
92 2019 Grauburgunder GG<br />
Weingut Michel, www.weingutmichel.com<br />
92 2015 Grauburgunder trocken<br />
Weingut Freiherr von Gleichenstein,<br />
www.gleichenstein.com<br />
91 2018 »Vulkangestein« Grauer<br />
Burgunder trocken<br />
WG Achkarren, further info on page 62<br />
90 2018 »Edition A«<br />
Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
WG Achkarren, further info on page 62<br />
IHRINGEN | WINKLERBERG<br />
The original Winklerberg consists of steep<br />
terraces and steep amphitheatres with<br />
black soils of weathered volcanic rock. The<br />
steep terraces reach inclines of up to 80%<br />
and mostly face southwest. The extended<br />
Winklerberg also includes loess terraces and<br />
totally flat valley sites with river sediments.<br />
Today’s size: 117ha/289 acres. Altitude:<br />
190-290m/623-951ft.<br />
95 2017 »Häusleboden« Wanne<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
95 2016 Vorderer Winklerberg<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Weingut Dr. Heger, further info on page 83<br />
95 2016 Vorderer Winklerberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Konstanzer, www.weingut-konstanzer.de<br />
60 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
BADEN | GRANDS CRUS<br />
94 2016 »Pur« Winklen<br />
Spätburgunder trocken,<br />
Konstanzer, www.weingut-konstanzer.de<br />
93 2016 »Backöfele« Vorderer Winklerberg<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Weingut Stigler, www.weingut-stigler.de<br />
92 2018 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Weingut Freiherr von Gleichenstein,<br />
www.gleichenstein.com<br />
BALLRECHTEN-DOTTINGEN<br />
CASTELLBERG<br />
This steep knoll with inclines of up to 70%<br />
turns from southeast to west and is<br />
terraced in its best parcels, held by dry<br />
stone walls that are more than 200 years<br />
old. The soils are calcareous with<br />
weathered marl and limestone<br />
conglomerates in the subsoil. On its crest<br />
are remnants of a Roman castle. Its<br />
considerable, cooling altitude (350-420m<br />
/1148-1377ft) is – especially with global<br />
warming – more than compensated by the<br />
mild temperatures of the Rhine plain, its<br />
southern aspect and the heat-retaining<br />
terraces.<br />
93 2018 »GC« Pinot Noir trocken<br />
93 2018 Syrah trocken<br />
93 2018 »GC« Weissburgunder trocken<br />
93 2018 »GC« Chardonnay trocken<br />
Weingut Martin Wassmer,<br />
further info on page 125<br />
91 2018 Viognier trocken<br />
Weingut Zähringer, further info on page 127<br />
91 2018 Spätburgunder<br />
Spätlese trocken<br />
Weingut Steinle,<br />
www.weingut-steinle.des<br />
90 2015 Spätburgunder<br />
Rotwein trocken<br />
Weingut Matthias Kiefer,<br />
www.kiefer-weingut.de<br />
89 2018 Grauburgunder trocken<br />
Markgräfler Winzer, further info on page 105<br />
89 2018 Weissburgunder<br />
Kabinett trocken<br />
Weingut Matthias Kiefer,<br />
www.kiefer-weingut.de<br />
Selected Grand Cru Sites<br />
Vineyard Area<br />
Villages<br />
Wertheim<br />
Karlsruhe<br />
Photo: Erich Spiegelhalter/Schwarzwald Tourismus<br />
Oberrotweil<br />
SCHLOSSBERG<br />
WINKLERBERG<br />
PLAUELRAIN<br />
Neuweier<br />
Durbach<br />
KIRCHBERG<br />
Achkarren<br />
Ihringen<br />
CASTELLBERG<br />
Rhine<br />
MAUERBERG<br />
Ballrechten-Dottingen<br />
Neckar<br />
Constance<br />
Danube<br />
Lake<br />
Constance<br />
61
WINZERGENOSSENSCHAFT<br />
ACHKARREN IM KAISERSTUHL EG<br />
Schlossbergstrasse 2, 79235 Vogtsburg-Achkarren<br />
T: +49 (7662) 93040<br />
info@winzergenossenschaft-achkarren.de<br />
www.achkarrerwein.com<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Christoph Rombach<br />
Contact: Denis Kirstein<br />
Hectares: 186 ha<br />
Wine lovers will be aware of the village<br />
of Achkarren, after all, its famous<br />
Schlossberg site is one the best<br />
for Pinot-varieties in the country. Solid volcanic<br />
bedrock is buried under not much more than a<br />
metre of topsoil and both vines (and growers)<br />
sweat on this steep slope. Taming the heat of this<br />
mountain is no easy task – but the co-op growers<br />
get better and better at harvesting fruit for elegant,<br />
mineral yet full-bodied wines. Their top<br />
wines, like Spätburgunder “Edition A” and the<br />
Grauburgunder-Jubiläumswein do more than<br />
justice to the 90th anniversary of the founding<br />
which the cooperative celebrated this year.<br />
90 2018 »Edition A« Achkarren Schlossberg<br />
Grauburgunder trocken<br />
Light golden appearance. Strong new wood notes, banana, sultana,<br />
apricot and buttery tones. On the palate this is bold, powerful<br />
and has a somewhat isolated alcohol, concentrated acidity,<br />
sultana impression in fruit and extract. Noticeably woody<br />
aromatic underlay. 14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
90 2019 »Edition Bestes Fass« Achkarren<br />
Schlossberg Gewürztraminer trocken<br />
Buttery notes on the nose, wax, rose, lychee. Powerful and voluminous<br />
on the palate, with firm acidity and a hint of sweetness<br />
highlighting the spiciness, strong but integrated alcohol, a hint<br />
of carbon dioxide. Candied fruit finish. 14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 »Edition Bestes Fass« Achkarren<br />
Schlossberg Gelber Muskateller trocken<br />
Citrusy and slightly reductive, restrained nutmeg-spice, lemon<br />
balm, leafy greens. On the palate there is good juiciness, lean<br />
and cohesive, slightly yeast-influenced, ripe acidity, mineral<br />
hints. An elegant food wine to go with oysters and shellfish.<br />
6,2 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
91 2018 »Edition A« Achkarren Schlossberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Smoky-roasty aroma, elderberry and cranberry, dark berry<br />
notes. On the palate there is full fruit, ripe and firm almost<br />
fleshy tannins, discreet but sufficiently supporting acidity,<br />
with noticeable palate presence and a clear mineral background.<br />
14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
89 2019 Achkarren Castellberg<br />
Grauer Burgunder Kabinett trocken<br />
89 2019 Achkarren Castellberg<br />
Weissburgunder Kabinett trocken<br />
89 2019 »Edition Bestes Fass« Achkarren<br />
Schlossberg Müller-Thurgau trocken<br />
88 2017 Achkarren Riesling brut<br />
88 2019 Achkarren Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
89 2019 Achkarren Spätburgunder Rosé tr.<br />
89 2017 »Edition Bestes Fass« Achkarren<br />
Schlossberg Spätburgunder trocken<br />
91 2018 »Vulkanstein« Achkarren<br />
Schlossberg Grauburgunder trocken<br />
A light touch of old-school Ruländer on the nose, apple,<br />
spontaneous fermentation, spicy notes, caraway seeds.<br />
Smooth and poised on the palate, silky with a delicate<br />
wood influence, well-integrated acidity, lots of texture and<br />
varietal fruit, a hint of sweetness, elegantly-staged richness.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
62 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
ALDE GOTT<br />
WINZER SCHWARZWALD<br />
Baden | WINERIES<br />
Talstrasse 2, 77887 Sasbachwalden<br />
T: +49 (7841) 20290, info@aldegott.de<br />
www.aldegott.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 9–17 hrs, Sundays 11–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Michael Huber<br />
Contact: Günter Lehmann<br />
Hectares: 265 ha<br />
Sasbachwalden sits on the edge of the<br />
cool Black Forest. In order for viticulture<br />
to be viable here, it takes steep<br />
slopes on the one hand and diligent growers<br />
on the other. Both can be found at the cooperative<br />
“Alde Gott”. They make wines which derive<br />
plump fruit from the granitic soils, accompanied<br />
by quite some power. Grauburgunder,<br />
for instance, can clock up 15% alcohol. However,<br />
they also know how to balance this sheer<br />
force. There is, after all, a love for hearty food<br />
in the Black Forest and the winters are long.<br />
90 2018 Grauburgunder Spätlese trocken<br />
im Eichenfass gereift<br />
Strong golden yellow in colour. Luscious candied fruit<br />
scents, wood, cassata, rhubarb and very ripe Charentais melon.<br />
Massive on the palate, some wood tannins and already<br />
present toasted woody flavours, concentrated acidity, plump<br />
body, strong alcohol. Solidly composed.<br />
15 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2018 »Weitblick« Grauburgunder trocken<br />
Strong use of wood, restrained berry scents and pronounced<br />
nutty aromas. Viscous on the palate, very plump, ripe acidity,<br />
quite round and silky-textured. All components seem seamlessly<br />
merged, even the alcohol is integrated - a charmer.<br />
14,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2016 »Weitblick« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Sour cherry and plum jam, initial notes of maturity followed<br />
by redcurrants, dried tomato, malt and discreet caramel<br />
notes from the wood. Impressive on the palate, almost oily.<br />
On top grainy tannins with some resilience, rather mild acidity,<br />
still compact in the finish. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2017 »Alte Rebe« Spätburgunder<br />
Spätlese trocken<br />
Dark berry, beetroot, and buttery notes. Very juicy on the palate,<br />
extracted tannins, fulfils the Spätlese attributes with<br />
volume, fruit emphasis and suppleness. Tactile mineral perceptions<br />
and silky tannins complement each other.<br />
14 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2018 »Granit« Riesling trocken<br />
89 2018 »Weitblick« Weissburgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 Gewürztraminer trocken<br />
88 2019 Grauburgunder Kabinett trocken<br />
88 2019 »R & R« trocken MT/RR<br />
90 2017 »Weitblick« Spätburgunder<br />
trocken APNr. 068/20<br />
89 2018 Spätburgunder Kabinett trocken<br />
90 2019 Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Red gooseberry on the nose with slight peppery hints, peppermint<br />
and some mineral undertones. Balanced on the<br />
palate, medium weight in alcohol, silky texture with delicate<br />
sweetness and smoothness, lively acidity, clear mineral<br />
extract, spicy finish. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
63
BÄRMANN<br />
Kirchgasse 38, 79291 Merdingen<br />
T: +49 (7668) 2570 160, info@weingut-baermann.com<br />
www.weingut-baermann.com<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Frank Bärmann<br />
Contact: Frank Bärmann<br />
Hectares: 2 ha<br />
It was in 2013 that Frank Bärmann returned<br />
to this 1814-founded wine and<br />
farmstead of his forebears in the village of<br />
Merdingen in the Tuniberg subregion. “With<br />
the dream to build a wine estate,” as he reports.<br />
The career-changing novice made his first wines<br />
in 2014, motivated by “a passion for wine<br />
along with love and enthusiasm for my home<br />
region.” These sentiments do come across in the<br />
wines, especially in the Spätburgunders which<br />
managed to turn the heat of 2018 into pure potential.<br />
The white wines speak of clarity and<br />
precision, his Weissburgunder from the Merdinger<br />
Bühl site underscores his ambition.<br />
89 2018 Merdingen Bühl Weissburgunder tr.<br />
Spicy notes on the nose, smoke and toasted aromas, some liquorice<br />
and herbs, ripe mirabelle plums and apples. Powerfullybuilt<br />
and substantial on the palate with good weight, lots of<br />
spice and texture. Not ungenerous with its charms and shows<br />
the warm year 2018. For hearty cuisine. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork<br />
88 2018 »Pinot Rosé« brut<br />
A light orange-tinted rosé colour. Blood orange, strawberry in<br />
the fragrance. Juicy on the palate, then pithy, clearly phenolic,<br />
light sweetness, fresh mousse. It has good qualities but the<br />
components still have yet to combine. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork<br />
90 2018 »Reserve« Merdingen Bühl<br />
Pinot Noir trocken<br />
Mint on the nose, peppermint pastilles, ripe cherries, wild<br />
berries, wood spice and black liquorice. On the palate ripe<br />
acidity and raspberry and a hint of lavender, powerfullydeveloped<br />
muscle, good substance and spice. Well-defined<br />
specimen of the Pinot Noir species. 14,5 Vol.-%. cork<br />
89 2018 Merdingen Bühl Pinot Noir trocken<br />
Ripe blackberry and black cherry on the nose, tobacco, orange<br />
peel, blood orange and spices. Not ungenerous on the<br />
palate, lots of substance, power and spice, the alcohol is<br />
well- integrated, sweet extract. Pinot Noir for fireside evenings<br />
or hearty dishes. 14,5 Vol.-%. cork<br />
88 2019 Gelber Muskateller trocken<br />
88 2019 Merdingen Gewürztraminer trocken<br />
88 2019 Weissburgunder trocken<br />
88 2019 Müller-Thurgau trocken<br />
88 2019 Grauburgunder trocken<br />
86 2019 »Secco Blanc«<br />
88 2018 Merdingen Spätburgunder trocken<br />
90 2018 Ihringen Fohrenberg<br />
Pinot Noir trocken<br />
On the nose, lush black cherry, blackberry, blood orange,<br />
beetroot, herbs and thyme. Opulent, massive Pinot Noir<br />
with balsamic spice, lots of substance and punch, but<br />
keeps enough freshness and balance. Sweet extract, needs<br />
big glasses and cold evenings! 15 Vol.-%, cork<br />
64 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT AXEL BAUER<br />
Baden | WINERIES<br />
Erlenstrasse 38, 77815 Bühl<br />
T: +49 (179) 2994838<br />
torsten@weingut-axel-bauer.de<br />
www.weingut-axel-bauer.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Torsten Klein<br />
Contact: Axel Bauer<br />
Hectares: 16 ha<br />
What initially started out as a hobby<br />
for Axel Bauer in 2013 has now<br />
evolved into a sizeable winery<br />
with some 16ha of vineyards. Since 2019, Torsten<br />
Klein has been in charge of winemaking,<br />
as Axel Bauer tells us, this is a “clear step towards<br />
expressing more elegance and finesse in<br />
the wine style.” The potential of these sites, all<br />
situated around the Bühler valley, is to be expressed<br />
with more precision: reduced yields,<br />
spontaneous ferments and long lees ageing<br />
which will all contribute to the endeavour. An<br />
accomplished trajectory so far that promises<br />
much to look forward to.<br />
91 2019 »Grand Vin« Sauvignon Blanc<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
The balance between stony minerality and fresh yellow fruit<br />
is really exciting in this Sauvignon Blanc. A hint of spicy aromas<br />
still resonates. A wine that is light and yet diverse in the<br />
overall picture. A very unique character, exciting.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
and honeydew melon, also delicate nutty notes. On the palate,<br />
it is soft with a hint of mineral freshness, powerful structure<br />
and good balance. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
88 2019 »Alte Reben« Grauer Burgunder<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
90 2019 »Blacklist« Goldmuskateller<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
The name says it all, the colour is yellow gold. The intense<br />
aroma is characterised by rose petals and a hint of bitter almond.<br />
Slender and taut on the palate, shows grip and a<br />
slightly tart note. Exciting Muskateller with its own character.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 »Meisterstück« Gewürztraminer<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
In this Gewürztraminer, fresh peonies par excellence are<br />
found on the nose. The florality is also present on the palate.<br />
Good substance, the acidity of the wine is very restrained,<br />
which makes it a versatile food wine. Also with spicy dishes.<br />
14 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
89 2019 »Maison Blanc« Landwein trocken<br />
Blend of Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay and a little Sauvignon<br />
Blanc. On the nose, discreet tropical aromas of passion fruit<br />
89 2019 »Handwerk« Weissburgunder<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
A very juicy Pinot Blanc with a fragrance reminiscent of<br />
passion fruit and green banana. Its body has a rather medium<br />
intensity, but everything is in good balance. A nice and<br />
well-balanced wine that you like to open with friends.<br />
13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
65
REINER BAUMANN WEINBAU<br />
Kopernikusstrasse 6, 68519 Viernheim<br />
T: +49 (6204) 7086313, info@baumann-weinbau.de<br />
www.baumann-weinbau.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Kurt Ratgeber, Reiner Baumann<br />
Contact: Reiner Baumann<br />
Hectares: 2 ha<br />
Reiner Baumann’s start in viticulture<br />
was in 2010 when he planted one and<br />
half hectares of vines on the<br />
Schriesheimer Madonnenberg in the subregion<br />
of the Badische Bergstrasse. At present, he<br />
also cultivates vineyards in Deidesheim in the<br />
Pfalz, not least because the wines are made<br />
with the support of Weingut von Winning. The<br />
dry white wines are characterised by their<br />
maturation in wood and, just like the Riesling<br />
and Sauvignon Blanc from the Madonnenberg,<br />
show good potential. Likewise, the Pinot<br />
Noir from the same site shows body and minerality.<br />
A very promising debut!<br />
91 2019 Schriesheim Madonnenberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
The spicy nose shows notes of wood ageing, toasty aromas,<br />
quince peel and stone fruit. On the palate there is an obvious<br />
acid structure, also salty undertones, juicy, with good substance<br />
and also density. No superficial charm, shows its provenance.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
On the palate fine acidity and mouth-filling sweetness, ripe<br />
citrus fruits, peach juice, apricot jelly, good balance and nice<br />
tension. 8 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2019 Ruppertsberg Spiess Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 Schriesheim Madonnenberg<br />
Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Powerful and spicy nose of ripe mango and cassis, plus wood<br />
aromas, lots of spice. On the palate juicy and with ripe acidity,<br />
citric notes, emphatically dry, some salt, powerful and<br />
consistent construction, multi-layered and with good substance.<br />
Young with potential. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2018 Schriesheim Madonnenberg<br />
Pinot Noir trocken<br />
Ripe black cherries on the nose, candied orange and lemon<br />
peel, black olives, smoke and juniper berry. Powerful. On the<br />
palate there is good volume and substance, well correlating<br />
acidity providing balance, ripe and strong tannins, mineral<br />
underpinning - nice. 14,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2019 Deidesheim Mäushöhle Riesling<br />
On the nose dried fruits, candied orange peel, lime peel, papaya,<br />
mango, underlaid with herbs, expansive and animating.<br />
90 2019 »Jäger« Schriesheim<br />
Madonnenberg Riesling trocken<br />
Spicy and herbal nose, toasty aromas, lime and apricot, apple<br />
peel, and also bread crust. On the palate there is apple<br />
and some lemon juice, guava, powerfully-built with clear<br />
and firm contours. Juicy and with a fine phenolic layer,<br />
good length. 13,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
66 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
BECKSTEINER WINZER<br />
Baden | WINERIES<br />
Weinstrasse 30, 97922 Beckstein<br />
T: +49 (9343) 500 0, info@becksteiner-winzer.de<br />
www.becksteiner-winzer.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Saturdays 9–18 hrs,<br />
Sundays 10–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Manfred Braun<br />
Contact: Michael Braun<br />
Hectares: 260 ha<br />
There is much joy in tasting the wines of<br />
this Tauber Valley cooperative. Even<br />
for relatively little money you can already<br />
get your hands on a distinctly grown-up<br />
Müller-Thurgau “Freihand”, or a dry Silvaner<br />
Kabinett which is incredibly animating. Much<br />
culinary imagination is evoked by the no-frills<br />
and uncommonly well-balanced “Selektion”<br />
of Weissburgunder. And finally, the red Pinot<br />
varieties ignite proper fireworks: with sinewy,<br />
cool-climate piquancy for Spätburgunder and<br />
wonderfully opulent fruit for Schwarzriesling<br />
(aka Pinot Meunier).<br />
92 2018 »Kilian« Beckstein Kirchberg<br />
Schwarzriesling Selektion trocken<br />
Some milk chocolate, sweet cherry, raspberry. On the palate<br />
there is a stately body with a substantial, grainy and slightly<br />
viscous background. Rich fruit in the middle of the palate,<br />
but far from fully-developed, impressive density, yet also nuanced.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
92 2017 »Reserve« Gerlachsheim Herrenberg<br />
Schwarzriesling Spätlese Selektion tr.<br />
Discreet smoky notes, but also scents of dark berry fruit, elderberry<br />
and wild strawberry. On the palate, full-bodied, very dense,<br />
a noble, still very youthful astringency. Lively acidity that increases<br />
over the course of the palate, chalky-mineral sensations, with<br />
the fine fruit gradually dispersing. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
92 2018 »Alte Reben« Gerlachsheim Herrenberg<br />
Spätburgunder Spätlese Selektion trocken<br />
Raspberry, discreet hints of wood, floral notes and fruity aromas.<br />
On the palate grainy, dense, with a lot of juiciness behind<br />
the tannins, ripe acidity, strong tactile minerality;<br />
chalky, salty and has a nice artisanal feel - great potential.<br />
14 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2017 »Alte Reben« Gerlachsheim Herrenberg<br />
Spätburgunder Spätlese Selektion trocken<br />
Fresh and fragrant, vibrant redcurrants, restrained use of<br />
wood; a very fine Pinot scent. On the palate, delicate, but<br />
with density, fresh tannins, great juiciness, and an invigorating<br />
acidity. Excellent elegance! Good length and minerality.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 »Freihand« Müller-Thurgau trocken<br />
90 2019 »Kilian« Gerlachsheim Herrenberg<br />
Silvaner Kabinett trocken<br />
90 2018 »Reserve« Gerlachsheim Herrenberg<br />
Chardonnay Spätlese Selektion trocken<br />
89 2019 »Kilian« Gerlachsheim Herrenberg<br />
Chardonnay Kabinett trocken<br />
89 2019 »Kilian« Gerlachsheim Herrenberg<br />
Weissburgunder Kabinett trocken<br />
89 2019 »Kilian« Gerlachsheim Herrenberg<br />
Grauer Burgunder Spätlese Selektion tr.<br />
89 2019 »Kilian« Gerlachsheim Herrenberg<br />
Chardonnay Spätlese Selektion trocken<br />
90 2019 »Kilian« Gerlachsheimer Herrenberg<br />
Weissburgunder Spätlese Selektion tr.<br />
Scent of meadow herbs, citrus and hay. Straightforward on<br />
the palate, supple base, slightly creamy phenolics, a lively<br />
acidity - typical of the vintage that gives the wine freshness<br />
and dynamism.A wonderfully lip-smacking Pinot Blanc, versatile<br />
in gastronomic terms. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
67
WEINGUT BERCHER<br />
Mittelstadt 13, 79235 Vogtsburg<br />
T: +49 (7662) 212, info@weingutbercher.de<br />
www.weingutbercher.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Saturdays 9–11.30 and<br />
13.30–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Arne Bercher, Werner Rehbein<br />
Contact: Arne and Martin Bercher<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 200,000 (55 % white, 45 % red)/27 ha<br />
Let’s take the Weissburgunder from the<br />
Sasbacher Limburg site to illustrate<br />
Arne and Martin Bercher’s concept: this<br />
wine, to be had for a mere EUR 15.50, just<br />
stands with a sort of self-assurance that many<br />
a Grosse Gewächs struggles to attain. What<br />
may come across as an understatement is in<br />
fact estate philosophy. The Berchers set high<br />
standards for every wine, from the estate<br />
wines, via the (actually stupendous) rosé all<br />
the way to the top wines, bursting with tension<br />
and complexity. The consequences are wonderful:<br />
in this house you can simply trust every<br />
single wine.<br />
93 2019 Burkheim Feuerberg Haslen<br />
Grauburgunder GG<br />
Subtle wood spice, berry varietal aromas, good ripeness and<br />
clarity. On the palate there is a fair bit of volume, but also<br />
with a fine, nervy and substantial counterbalance, pervaded<br />
by minerality; never losing sight of the fullness of the variety<br />
and yet with super balance. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2019 Burkheim Feuerberg<br />
Grauburgunder Erste Lage trocken<br />
Beautiful brilliance in the glass, elegant, very delicate, fragrant<br />
nose of citrus notes. On the palate strong acidity with<br />
restrained fruit, but an enormously dense mouthfeel with a<br />
lot of length, texture and minerality. The wine seems incredibly<br />
young and thus has a lot ahead of it. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2019 Burkheim Feuerberg<br />
Spätburgunder Rosé trocken<br />
Exciting: the opaque bottle protects the rosé, in the glass<br />
delicate strawberry red with copper-gold reflections. Vinous<br />
nose with delicate fruit and also smoky notes. On the palate<br />
juicy opulence with freshness and depth - an elegant rosé.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
94 2018 Burkheim Feuerberg Kesselberg<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Rich in nuances: floral notes, tree resin, wild strawberry. Mealy<br />
tannin texture on a supple base, sweet fruit, well-defined tactile<br />
minerality and then lots of juiciness on the finish as the extract<br />
tension is released. Lots of substance in a gentle guise!<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2019 Burkheim Feuerberg Gelber<br />
Muskateller Erste Lage trocken<br />
91 2019 Burkheim Schlossgarten Villinger<br />
Grauburgunder GG<br />
90 2019 Burkheim Weissburgunder trocken<br />
90 2019 Burkheim Grauburgunder trocken<br />
91 2016 Burkheim Feuerberg<br />
Spätburgunder Erste Lage trocken<br />
90 2017 Burkheim Spätburgunder trocken<br />
89 2017 Jechtingen Eichert<br />
Spätburgunder Erste Lage trocken<br />
93 2019 Sasbach Limburg<br />
Weissburgunder Erste Lage trocken<br />
This wine is still closed, but the delicious nose, paired with<br />
the beautiful viscosity of the wine in the glass, lets the<br />
great potential shine through. On the palate the acidity<br />
combines wonderfully with the opulent fullness, very long<br />
finish. 13,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
68 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Baden | WINERIES<br />
<br />
BICKENSOHLER WEINVOGTEI<br />
Neunlindenstrasse 25, 79235 Vogtsburg-Bickensohl<br />
T: +49 (7662) 93110, wein@bickensohler.de<br />
www.bickensohler.de<br />
Cellar Door: April to October Mondays through Fridays<br />
9–17.30 hrs, Saturdays 9–14 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Michael Jäger<br />
Contact: Patrick Chelaifa<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 1,000,000 (67 % white, 33 % red)/100 ha<br />
Is provenance where we come from or what<br />
we want to work towards?” This is the<br />
question posed by the members of the<br />
Bickensohler Weinvogtei cooperative. They follow<br />
this up with a ready response: “For us it is<br />
both: Our origin is the very heart of the Kaiserstuhl,<br />
this is our home and where our roots are.”<br />
Evidently it is far easier to make wines with the<br />
profile and character of their origin once such<br />
fundamental questions have been made clear.<br />
We tasted an interesting spectrum of wines<br />
which – like the Gewürztraminer Auslese –<br />
showed real substance, natural fullness and<br />
charm. This is not something to be missed.<br />
90 2018 »SK-Selektion« Bickensohl<br />
Herrenstück Chardonnay Spätlese<br />
Barrique trocken<br />
Golden yellow in colour, strong toasted aromas, wood spice,<br />
pear, spices and also ripe redcurrants. Shows a lot on the palate,<br />
substance and volume, juice, texture and spice, flows<br />
smoothly and almost viscous. The ripe acidity provides balance.<br />
14,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2017 »Mysterious Red« Bickensohl trocken<br />
Black cherry and also blackcurrants on the nose, some mint<br />
and and a hint of woody spice. On the palate there is good freshness<br />
and a lively acidity that shapes the character of the wine<br />
with notes of cherry and also sour cherry. Returning hints of<br />
blackcurrant and spice. Harmonious. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2018 »SK-Selektion« Bickensohl<br />
Herrenstück Spätburgunder Barrique tr.<br />
The nose sets the tone: opulence, ripe and cooked fruit, aromas<br />
of port and rum-steeped fruit. On the palate, there is a lot of<br />
substance and power, plenty of spice and also alcohol, which is<br />
well integrated. A warming wine. 15 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
91 2018 Bickensohl Herrenstück<br />
Gewürztraminer Auslese<br />
Rich, clear, honey yellow. On the nose dried apricot, some honey<br />
blossom. Also some quince, peach, hints of rose - rich and spicy.<br />
On the palate textural sweetness, rose water, honey and grippy<br />
candied orange and peach juice. Well-balanced, nice length.<br />
8,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 Bickensohl Herrenstück<br />
Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
88 2019 »SK-Selektion« Bickensohl<br />
Steinfelsen Weissburgunder Kabinett tr.<br />
88 2019 Bickensohl Herrenstück<br />
Muskateller Kabinett<br />
87 2019 Bickensohl Vulkanfelsen<br />
Scheurebe Kabinett<br />
87 2019 »M-T fresh« Bickensohl<br />
Müller-Thurgau trocken<br />
88 2019 »Blanc de Noir« Bickensohl Kühler<br />
Morgen Pinot Noir trocken<br />
87 2019 Bickensohl Kühler Morgen Rosé tr.<br />
89 2017 »SK-Selektion« Bickensohl<br />
Steinfelsen Grauer Burgunder Kabinett tr.<br />
Ripe apple and pear on the nose, honeydew melon and garden<br />
herbs. Juicy on the palate with apple notes and fine<br />
spice, the acidity is present and balanced, good substance,<br />
mineral-tinged. A Pinot Gris that accompanies a variety of<br />
dishes. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
69
WEINGUT BIMMERLE<br />
Kirchstrasse 4, 77871 Renchen<br />
T: +49(7843) 654, info@wein-bimmerle.de<br />
www.wein-bimmerle.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–12 hrs and<br />
13–18 hrs, Saturdays 9–14 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Philipp Milke<br />
Contact: Siegbert Bimmerle<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 1,000,000 (40 % white, 60 % red)/135 ha<br />
When Siegbert Bimmerle took over<br />
the family winery in 1986, there<br />
were six hectares of vines. Currently,<br />
there are 135 hectares across an area<br />
stretching 90km: they are in the northern end<br />
of the subregion of Ortenau, via the Rench<br />
valley, the Durbach valley all the way to the<br />
southern Ortenau and into the northern end<br />
of the Breisgau subregion. This extended area<br />
of sites with different soils creates a plethora of<br />
flavours. Cellar master Philipp Milke makes<br />
fresh and precise wines. His “Réserve” range<br />
scores with proper substance and complexity.<br />
A most inviting collection!<br />
90 2018 »Réserve« Grauburgunder trocken<br />
Initially restrained on the nose but after a few minutes, a ripe<br />
scent of yellow peach, tangerine and lemon peel become apparent.<br />
On the palate hazelnut, white peach and honeysuckle.<br />
Exciting wine with a medium body, fresh acidity and a<br />
good finish. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork<br />
91 2017 »Cuvée Pinot Noir Merlot Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon« trocken<br />
Medium ruby. On the nose, a clear scent of ripe cherry, blackberry<br />
and clove. On the palate, the well-integrated acidity<br />
balances these flavours as well as chocolate in the medium-bodied<br />
wine. Ripe and fine tannins accompany the wine<br />
into its long finish. 14 Vol.-%. DIAM<br />
89 2018 »Réserve« Chardonnay trocken<br />
89 2019 Auxerrois Kabinett trocken<br />
89 2018 »Réserve« Riesling Spätlese<br />
88 2019 Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
88 2019 Weissburgunder Kabinett trocken<br />
88 2019 Grauer Burgunder Kabinett trocken<br />
89 2018 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
90 2017 »Réserve« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Ruby with slight brightening at the rim. On the nose a light herbal<br />
note, raspberry and cranberry. On the palate, cloves from the use<br />
of wood and further aromas of hibiscus and dark cherry. Ripe tannins,<br />
finely-balanced acidity and a good finish. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork<br />
90 2018 Gewürztraminer Spätlese<br />
Golden yellow in the glass with a scent of rose petal,<br />
tangerine and lychee. On the palate also flavours of<br />
grapefruit, lemon, bee honey and violets. The exotic fruit<br />
sweetness is balanced by good acidity and a long finish.<br />
Well-balanced wine, to go with food. 12 Vol.-%. screwcap<br />
90 2019 Riesling Kabinett trocken<br />
Pale lemon yellow. On the nose a medium intensity of ripe<br />
yellow apples and pineapple. On the palate, a very fine<br />
acidity that carries the above-mentioned aromas as well<br />
as lemon zest, lime and ripe grapefruit very well. A slender<br />
representative of its grape variety. 12 Vol.-%, screwcap<br />
70 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Baden | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT BLANKENHORN<br />
Basler Strasse 2, 79418 Schliengen<br />
T: +49 (7635) 82000, info@gutedel.de<br />
www.weingut-blankenhorn.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–12 hrs and<br />
Mondays, Tuesdays, Thurdays, Fridays 14–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–13 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Yvonne Kessler<br />
Contact: Martin Männer<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 110,000 (55 % white, 45 % red)/24 ha<br />
The subregion of Markgräflerland is famous<br />
for Gutedel, aka Chasselas, a grape<br />
variety that often is underrated, simply<br />
because it is not about plump fruit but elegant,<br />
light-footed structure. Yvonne Kessler and Martin<br />
Männer who took over Weingut Blankenhorn<br />
in 2014, pay particular attention to this regional<br />
classic. It is a joy to witness what wonderful<br />
minerality they manage to express in their<br />
Gutedel wines. Beyond that, there is of course the<br />
Chardonnay Grosses Gewächs from the Schliengener<br />
Sonnenstück site, just as much of a magnificence<br />
as the Spätburgunder from the same site.<br />
But do make sure to also try the Gutedel!<br />
93 2018 Schliengen Sonnenstück<br />
Chardonnay GG<br />
On the nose fine vanilla, some smoke, toast, quince, pear, ripe<br />
apple, delicate almond nuances, appealing. On the palate,<br />
texture, quince, fine acidity, nice balance and tension, elegant,<br />
finely woven, dense structure and a long finish. Further<br />
potential. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2018 »Le Clocher« Chasselas trocken<br />
After aeration delicate smoke, crushed rock, lemon balm, apple<br />
peel, delicate spice and some pear emerge. On the palate<br />
fine acidity, grippy, phenolics, texture, bright fruits, atypical<br />
Gutedel with a fine structure and good length. Elegant, has<br />
further potential, great with food. 11,5 Vol.-%. DIAM, €€<br />
92 2017 »Courage« Chasselas trocken<br />
On the nose, scents of vanilla and delicate smoke, apple,<br />
peach blossom, honeydew melon, a mineral underlay and<br />
some tangerine - more Chardonnay than Gutedel. On the palate<br />
a lot of traction, fine light fruits, phenolics, quince, apple<br />
peel, potential, mineral traction and tension.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2017 Schliengen Sonnenstück<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Cherry, sloe berry, mulberry, smoke, wood spice, herbs and a<br />
complex, mineral underlay. On the palate grippy, ripe tannins,<br />
red fruits, balancing acidity, elegance and power.<br />
Densely woven, beautiful length - great food wine.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2018 Schliengen Ölacker<br />
Weissburgunder Erste Lage trocken<br />
90 2019 Schliengen Chardonnay trocken<br />
89 2019 »Markgräfler« Gutedel trocken<br />
89 2019 »Markgräfler«<br />
Grauburgunder trocken<br />
91 2018 »Postillon« Schliengen tr. CS/ME<br />
91 2018 »Bravour« Schliengen Syrah trocken<br />
90 2017 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
91 2018 Schliengen Gutedel trocken<br />
After aeration, fragrances of crunchy light fruits (green apple,<br />
pear), peach blossom, some crushed rock and delicate<br />
smoke emerge. On the palate balanced acidity, grip, delicate<br />
fruit, balm, refined phenolics and good structure. Versatile.<br />
11,1 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
71
WEINGUT BRENNEISEN<br />
Am Weiler Weg 2, 79588 Egringen<br />
T: +49 (7628) 800987, info@weingut-brenneisen.de<br />
www.weingut-brenneisen.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Dirk Brenneisen<br />
Contact: Dirk Brenneisen<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 30,000 (70 % white, 30 % red)/8 ha<br />
All of the wines made by Dirk Brenneisen<br />
are conclusive studies in understatement.<br />
Oh, what a pretty and tenderly-scented<br />
Weissburgunder, you think to<br />
yourself but then, at the very latest by the second<br />
sip, the full force of its depth hits you.<br />
Since this wine is actually available for EUR 7<br />
we cannot help but turn it into a Falstaff-Tip.<br />
Further down the pricelist, with his more expensive<br />
wines, Brenneisen’s wines show even<br />
more minerality and complexity, without ever<br />
diverging from their purist style or gastronomic<br />
vein. Bravo!<br />
93 2017 »Molassefels« Grauburgunder tr.<br />
Light golden in colour. Scents of apples, large wooden barrel<br />
nuances and iodine tones. Rich and slightly viscous on the<br />
palate, plus a fine but also firm thread of acidity, intensely<br />
mineral on the palate, dense, delicate phenolics, beautiful<br />
fullness. Impressively homogeneous in structure and subtly<br />
spicy on the finish. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
93 2016 »Molassefels« Chardonnay trocken<br />
Herbal tones and iodine, apple, some wood, nougat. On the<br />
palate, creamy onset, quite generous and supple, but also<br />
with accentuated substance, tense acidity and intense tactile<br />
minerality. Impressive and dense, perfect with food.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2019 Chardonnay trocken<br />
90 2019 Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
90 2014 »Musketier« brut<br />
90 2013 »17 Hippies« Grauburgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 Gutedel trocken<br />
92 2017 »Molassefels« Pinot Noir trocken<br />
89 2018 Blauer Burgunder trocken<br />
93 2017 »Chätsch« Pinot Noir trocken<br />
Berry and floral, fine wood spice, inter-playful and intense.<br />
On the palate quite round and silky, also powerfully salty,<br />
ripe, persistent acidity - in a refined way both powerful and<br />
fine, then it tapers off into a very fine chalky minerality.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
93 2017 »HerrReos« Pinot Noir trocken<br />
Scents of rosehip, some wood, raspberry, and red berry nuances,<br />
but still young and undeveloped. The tannins are firm<br />
and fine simultaneously, with a vivid and vibrating minerality<br />
showing a fine nerve against a creamy base. Ageing potential!<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2019 Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Nuanced, restrained Pinot fruit, some yeast, very slightly<br />
floral, hay. On the palate much denser and more substantial<br />
than the nose would lead one to expect, minerallyinfluenced,<br />
fresh and full of tension, lively acidity, quite dry.<br />
A gastronomic wine. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
72 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Baden | WINERIES<br />
<br />
BURKHEIMER<br />
WINZER AM KAISERSTUHL<br />
Winzerstrasse 8, 79235 Vogtsburg-Burkheim<br />
T: +49 (7662) 9393 0, info@burkheimerwinzer.de<br />
www.burkheimerwinzer.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–12 hrs and<br />
13.30–18 hrs, Saturdays 9–16 hrs, Sundays 10–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Dominik Schweizer<br />
Contact: Gert Schmidt<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 840,000 (60 % white, 40 % red)/108 ha<br />
Vini Grande is the name the Burkheimer<br />
co-operative members have given to their<br />
best wines – they have done so with good<br />
reason. These wines are made from the best grapes<br />
grown across their 108 hectares of vineyards in the<br />
Kaiserstuhl subregion. They were made with substance<br />
and ageing potential in mind and show an<br />
exactly-balanced harmony, like the exquisite<br />
Chardonnay from the Burkheimer Schlossgarten<br />
and the full-bodied, savoury Spätburgunder from<br />
the Burkheimer Feuerberg. The Kabinett wines<br />
show great varietal typicity, while the Scheurebe<br />
Beerenauslese absolutely meets the high standards<br />
expected of the nobly sweet genre. Well done!<br />
92 2018 »Vini Grande« Burkheim<br />
Schlossgarten Chardonnay trocken<br />
Powerful and complex nose with pineapple, pear, ripe apricot,<br />
bay leaf and fine wood spice. Poised on the palate, there<br />
is good substance, full-bodied and rich in extract, well-woven<br />
acidity and maritime notes like oyster. A spicy, good balance,<br />
ageing potential. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
88 2019 Burkheim Schlossgarten Chardonnay<br />
Kabinett trocken<br />
Already powerful on the nose with notes of ripe pineapple<br />
and spice. On the palate, broad for a Kabinett, juicy and supple<br />
with a rather leisurely flow, spice and the obvious acidity<br />
provide accents and balance. Citric notes in the finish - exudes<br />
confidence. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
88 2019 Burkheim Schlossgarten<br />
Weissburgunder Kabinett trocken<br />
Ripe apricot and orange zest in the powerful aroma, also citric<br />
notes. Juicy. On the palate there is a balanced acidity accompanied<br />
by ripe yellow fruit which shows texture and spiciness,<br />
shows the potential of Burkheim, good varietal wine.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
91 2018 Burkheim Feuerberg<br />
Scheurebe Beerenauslese<br />
On the nose dried fruits, dates, apricots, hints of blossom<br />
honey, elderberry cordial, quince jelly and blackcurrant jam.<br />
Textured sweetness on the palate, restrained acidity, concentrated<br />
bright fruit, honey sweetness, medium structure<br />
and length, goes well with an almond cake.<br />
8,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
87 2019 Burkheim Feuerberg Grauer<br />
Burgunder Kabinett trocken<br />
90 2017 »Vini Grande« Burkheim Feuerberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Wild berries on the nose, cherry and blackberry, also chocolate<br />
and plum. On the palate there are strong tannins and<br />
lots of extract, substance and density. Not ungenerous<br />
with its charms, ripe acidity, distinctive spice and also<br />
punch. Goes well with game. 14,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
73
WEINGUT CLAUSS<br />
Obere Dorfstrasse 39, 79807 Nack<br />
T: +49 (7745) 5492, info@weingutclauss.de<br />
www.weingutclauss.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays and<br />
Fridays 10–12 hrs and 14–18 hrs, Saturdays 9–13 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Berthold Clauss<br />
Contact: Susanne and Berthold Clauss<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 120,000 (45 % white, 55 % red)/18 ha<br />
At Weingut Clauss there is lots of attention<br />
to detail when it comes to manual<br />
work in vineyard and cellar. All grapes<br />
are hand-harvested and transported gently in<br />
shallow crates. Even the sparkling wines are<br />
made in-house and the ‘Sekts’ are riddled by<br />
hand. “By moving the yeast that way, we identify<br />
even more with the Sekt,” writes Berthold<br />
Clauss who makes properly dry and expressive<br />
wines. Even Muskateller grapes are fermented<br />
to full dryness. “That’s my style,” he<br />
notes. A really strong collection of wines, we<br />
can feel that things are happening in the village<br />
of Nack. That’s the spirit!<br />
92 2019 »Belemnit Wildfang« Müller-Thurgau<br />
Deutscher Wein trocken Réserve<br />
A terroir-driven Müller Thurgau with scents reminiscent of<br />
elderflower and black pepper. This spiciness continues on<br />
the palate. The acidity is strong, the body has a lot of structure.<br />
A deep and complex Müller-Thurgau of a somewhat different<br />
kind. Worth tasting! 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2019 »Urbanus« Weissburgunder trocken<br />
On the nose, the scent of vanilla and young pineapple. Good<br />
substance on the palate, powerful and wood-supported construction,<br />
dry in impression, the acidity on the palate is accompanied<br />
by a soft tart taste. Overall very elegant and<br />
unique. Potential. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork,<br />
92 2016 »Urbanus« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
On the nose, discreet vanilla notes and a hint of mint. The<br />
fruit is reminiscent of raspberry. On the palate, the Pinot<br />
shows good texture, clear fruit with an intense acid structure<br />
and still slightly rustic tannins that will integrate further.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2015 »Urbanus« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Sweet, fruity notes of liquorice and cherries on the nose. Additionally<br />
discreet notes of tobacco. On the palate there is a<br />
strong stature, soft tannins are complemented by fresh acidity.<br />
All around a well-balanced wine with individuality and increasing<br />
finesse. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2019 »Urbanus« Pinot Gris trocken<br />
91 2018 »Belemnit« Chardonnay trocken<br />
90 2019 »Réserve« Nack<br />
Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
89 2019 »Belemnit« Grauburgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 Gelber Muskateller trocken<br />
89 2019 Nack Weissburgunder trocken<br />
91 2018 »Belemnit Grand Réserve«<br />
Frühburgunder trocken<br />
91 »Pinot Rosé« brut<br />
Scents of raspberry, cherry, rosehip, Pinot fruit, fresh and<br />
pure with a smoky nuance. On the palate there is beautiful<br />
fruit, concise acidity, lots of drive, charm with defined fruit<br />
and texture. A well-balanced sparkling wine that works on<br />
its own and with food.12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
74 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT DÖRFLINGER<br />
Baden | WINERIES<br />
Mühlenstrasse 7, 79379 Müllheim<br />
T: +49 (7631) 2207, mail@weingut-doerflinger.de<br />
www.weingut-doerflinger.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–12.30 hrs and<br />
13.30–18.30 hrs, Saturdays 9–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Hermann Dörflinger<br />
Contact: Hermann Dörflinger<br />
Hectares: 20 ha<br />
This Weingut in Müllheim’s picturesque<br />
Mühlenstrasse is a stronghold – and connoisseurs<br />
know this – of properly dry<br />
wine, i.e. fully fermented to dryness. Hermann<br />
Dörflinger senior and Hermann Dörflinger junior<br />
both enjoy Baden cuisine with its French influences.<br />
Their Gutedel, aka Chasselas, and Pinot-wines<br />
in white and red go really well with this kind of<br />
food, especially since the cool limestone terroirs<br />
of the Markgräflerland subregion affords the<br />
very best conditions to make exactly that kind of<br />
gastronomic wines. The double bill that was presented<br />
of the vintages 2019 for white and 2018<br />
for red are exemplary. So take your pick!<br />
92 2019 Badenweiler Römerberg<br />
Weissburgunder Spätlese trocken<br />
Clover and dandelion on the nose, herbal spice, citrus notes,<br />
restrained wood. On the palate there is a perfect integration of<br />
suppleness and substance, the mid-palate is pronounced in<br />
fruit (with 0.4 grams of residual sugar!), has fullness, minerality<br />
and is complex. A gastronomic wine. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
On the palate an ultra-fine tannin, a plump body with opulent<br />
fruit, ripe acidity, present tactile minerality. A complex spicy<br />
finish. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2019 Müllheim Reggenhag<br />
Chardonnay Spätlese trocken<br />
92 2019 Müllheim Sonnhalde Grauer<br />
Burgunder Spätlese trocken<br />
Light golden in colour. A lush varietal aroma, baroque, smelling<br />
of pureed sweet chestnut and Turkish delight. On the palate,<br />
powerful, creamy, full-bodied. A pure Baden classic, absolutely<br />
ideal with foods eg. sweetbreads, truffles and other<br />
similar delicacies. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
94 2018 Müllheim Pfaffenstück<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Elderberry and menthol on the nose, very complex ripe fruit,<br />
yet fresh and not jammy. Also liquorice and discreet new<br />
wood. Supple attack on the palate, creamy base, but also<br />
with a rich load of mellow tannins, fine acidity and a fruity<br />
finish. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2018 »Aus alten Reben« Müllheim<br />
Sonnhalde Spätburgunder trocken<br />
A hint of "wilderness" on the nose, dark berry, elderberry and<br />
ethereal wild blueberry. Distinct but integrated wood notes.<br />
90 2019 Müllheim Reggenhag Gutedel tr.<br />
Intensely grapey in the fragrance, tangerines, peppers and<br />
damp limestone. Supple onset on the palate, then with a<br />
good substantial core, ripe but length-giving acidity, clear<br />
tactile minerality, quite dry but not hard or biting. A very refined<br />
wine. 11,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
75
WEINGUT HOLGER DÜTSCH<br />
Sankt-Michael-Strasse 39, 76534 Baden-Baden, Neuweier<br />
T: +49 (7223) 959739, info@weingut-duetsch.de<br />
www.weingut-duetsch.de<br />
Cellar Door: Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays<br />
15–18 hrs, Saturdays 10–13 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Holger Dütsch<br />
Contact: Holger Dütsch, Hannelore Dütsch-Weiss<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 20,000 (80 % white, 20 % red)/4 ha<br />
The joy of wine as a reward for daily life”<br />
was what prompted Holger Dütsch and<br />
Hannelore Dütsch-Weiss in 2004 to<br />
found their winery in the wine lands surrounding<br />
Baden-Baden. They cultivate their four hectares<br />
of vineyards in the village of Neuweier, their<br />
vines rooted deeply in the arkose sandstone,<br />
shale and porphyry soils. The vines have continuous<br />
green cover and are always fertilised organically.<br />
What we tasted were wines of character<br />
with real profile that will be able to evolve for a<br />
long time. Like the mineral Riesling “Tradition”<br />
from the Mauerberg or the spicy Blaufränkisch.<br />
These kinds of wines are indeed a daily reward!<br />
91 2018 »Tradition« Neuweier Mauerberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Some yeast, lemon peel and apple on the nose, also fine<br />
smoke. On the palate there is some substance and ripe acidity,<br />
good density, again some citrus fruit and green apple, with<br />
good juiciness in the finish, elegant and mineral based. Will<br />
probably develop. 13,5 Vol.-%. synthetic closure, €€<br />
which provides backbone, not too lush, slight astringency.<br />
Great with roast venison. 13 Vol.-%. DIAM, €€<br />
89 2018 Neuweier Mauerberg<br />
Riesling Spätlese feinherb<br />
90 2018 Neuweier Mauerberg Chardonnay tr.<br />
Fine wood notes on the nose, spice, some vanilla, apple, pear,<br />
apricot and flowers. Compact and rather broad on the palate,<br />
full-bodied and rich in extract, the wood and the acidity are<br />
well-integrated, a hint of spice, dry and with fine minerality.<br />
Young with potential. 13 Vol.-%. synthetic closure, €€<br />
90 2019 Baden-Baden Sauvignon Blanc tr.<br />
Expressive aromas of wood spice, cassis as well as ripe mango<br />
and passion fruit. Ample power on the palate, opulent ripe<br />
fruit, spice and juice, good extract, skilful use of wood, shows<br />
the character of the grape variety and the Baden hallmark.<br />
Ageing potential. 14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2017 Steinbach Stich den Buben<br />
Blaufränkisch trocken<br />
Black cherry and blackberry on the nose, some cranberry,<br />
wood and spice. Compactly composed. On the palate there is<br />
pleasant spice, sour cherries, grippy tannins, lively acidity<br />
90 2019 »Urgestein« Neuweier Riesling tr.<br />
Mirabelle plums, Reine Claude plums and apricot in the<br />
finely- tuned fruity aroma, also floral notes and leafy<br />
greens. Spicy and with well-balanced substance on the<br />
palate, ripe fruit like passion fruit is accompanied by a lively<br />
and balanced acidity, and ample mineral hue.<br />
13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
76 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Baden | WINERIES<br />
<br />
FREIHERR<br />
VON UND ZU FRANCKENSTEIN<br />
Weingartenstrasse 66, 77654 Offenburg<br />
T: +49 (7813) 34973, weingut@weingut-von-franckenstein.de<br />
www.weingut-von-franckenstein.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–12 hrs and<br />
14–18 hrs, Saturdays 9–13 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Stefan Huschle<br />
Contact: Stefan Huschle<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 100,000 (65 % white, 35 % red)/18 ha<br />
It is now more than ten years ago that Stefan<br />
Huschle took over this long-established<br />
estate with its memorable name in<br />
the Ortenau subregion, thereby fulfilling his<br />
dream of running his own estate. As it should<br />
be for this area, he dedicates his energy to Riesling<br />
but in no way neglects the red and white<br />
92 2019 Zell-Weierbach Neugesetz Georg<br />
Arbogast Riesling GG<br />
Clear peach aroma. Very fresh and tangy. In addition, there<br />
are discreet citrus notes and apricot jelly. On the palate, the<br />
wine has a full body with a complex acid structure and a long<br />
finish. A good example of site character with ageing potential.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2019 Berghaupten Schützenberg Zum<br />
Himmelreich Weissburgunder GG<br />
The aroma is complex ranging from green apple to citrus<br />
fruit and oak leaves, followed by discreet hints of vanilla. The<br />
acidity has bite and makes this juicy wine fresh. A thoroughly<br />
complex wine and rich in potential, but also already accessible.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 Chardonnay brut<br />
Wonderful brioche aroma with defined and juicy fruitiness<br />
followed by a hint of baked apple. The mousse is very soft and<br />
on the palate the wine retains both a stony minerality and<br />
the fruity nuances. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2016 Lauf Gut Alsenhof<br />
Spätburgunder Erste Lage trocken<br />
Macerated fruit, tobacco and plum jam, dark berries, discreetly<br />
smoky wood influence. Juicy onset on the palate, with lively acidity,<br />
starting with mellow tannins, a pithy Pinot from a steep site<br />
that pushes back the smooth, "warm" motifs. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
Pinot-varieties, either. It is above all the Spätburgunders<br />
we enjoy year after year. That is already<br />
true for the “Granit” from Zell-Weierbach<br />
which turned out especially well and can<br />
be had for relatively good value for money. It<br />
offers real drinking pleasure with fine aromatics<br />
and resonant minerality.<br />
91 2019 Zell-Weierbach Abtsberg<br />
Grauburgunder Erste Lage trocken<br />
91 2019 Berghaupten Schützenberg<br />
Chardonnay Erste Lage trocken<br />
91 2019 Lauf Gut Alsenhof Grauburgunder<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
91 2019 Zell-Weierbach Abtsberg Tannweg<br />
Grauer Burgunder GG<br />
90 2019 Berghaupten Schützenberg Riesling<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
88 2019 Berghaupten Schützenberg<br />
Weissburgunder Erste Lage trocken<br />
88 2019 »Granit« Zell-Weierbach Riesling tr.<br />
91 2017 »Granit« Zell-Weierbach<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Lush cherry fruit, beetroot and dried tomato, also "wild"<br />
spontaneous fermentation notes. Silky on the palate, juicy<br />
with mineral tones, medium-weight fruit, tobacco-like flavours<br />
in the finish. Good, substantial Ortswein.<br />
13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
77
STAATSWEINGUT FREIBURG<br />
Merzhauser Strasse 119, 79100 Freiburg<br />
T: +49 (761) 40165 4320, staatsweingut@wbi.bwl.de<br />
www.staatsweingut-freiburg.de<br />
Cellar Door: Wine shop Freiburg: Mondays through<br />
Fridays 10–19 hrs, Saturdays 10–16 hrs;<br />
Wine shop Ihringen: Mondays through Fridays 12–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Werner Scheffelt and Benedikt Jehle<br />
Contact: Bernhard Huber<br />
Hectares: 37 ha<br />
The Staatsweingut Freiburg (owned by the<br />
Federal State of Baden Württemberg) has<br />
presented four white Grosse Gewächse<br />
from the 2018 vintage in one go, accompanied by<br />
the Spätburgunder GGs from the vintages 2018,<br />
2017 and 2013. The team around director Bernhard<br />
Huber handled the 2018 vintage really well.<br />
The wines are characterised by density, tension<br />
and body. The Spätburgunder GG from the<br />
Blankenhornsberger Doktorgarten is the best and<br />
most remarkable expression of that. The 2013<br />
vintage from the same site illustrates how deliciously<br />
these wines can mature. If such an outlook<br />
is not promising, we have no idea what is!<br />
92 2018 Blankenhornsberg Doktorgarten<br />
Chardonnay GG<br />
Fragrant and slightly perfumed nose: pear, apricot and white<br />
flowers. The firm palate structure is compelling, fine tannins<br />
and phenolics, spicy and with good density and tension, dry<br />
and without ingratiation.Good potential for ageing.<br />
14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
92 2018 Blankenhornsberg Doktorgarten<br />
Grauburgunder GG<br />
Discreet spicy wood, berryish Pinot notes and ripe fruity-citrus<br />
aromas - tangerine. On the palate, a quite present layer of<br />
phenolics, plus a tense acidic nerve in the background of a<br />
powerful body. Needs time, has the best potential for spiciness.<br />
14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
93 2018 Blankenhornsberg Doktorgarten<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Herbal-spicy fragrance, sour cherry, Pinot berries. Almost<br />
menthol. Plump and supple on the palate, mellow tannins,<br />
ripe acidity, translates the vintage into volume, but with juiciness<br />
and good fruit accompaniment. Creamy finish.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
93 2013 Blankenhornsberg Doktorgarten<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Some sour cherry, cocoa powder, discreet wood, initial spicy<br />
hints. On the palate, juicy onset, mellow tannins, sweet fruit,<br />
weaves suppleness and substance into each other very nicely,<br />
the tactile minerality carries for quite a long time and gives<br />
the construction even more elegance. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap<br />
92 2018 Blankenhornsberg Doktorgarten<br />
Weissburgunder GG<br />
91 2014 »dosage zéro« Pinot Noir Chardonnay<br />
brut nature<br />
91 2018 Freiburg Schlossberg Chardonnay GG<br />
89 2019 Blankenhornsberg<br />
Gelber Muskateller trocken<br />
88 2019 Freiburg Gutedel trocken<br />
92 2017 Blankenhornsberg Doktorgarten<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
91 2018 Solaris Beerenauslese<br />
91 2018 Freiburg Jesuitenschloss<br />
Spätburgunder Erste Lage trocken<br />
Smells of blueberry muffin, liquorice, wild blueberry with<br />
intense dark berry notes and hints of discreet wood. Fine,<br />
fresh tannins, immediately present tactile minerality,<br />
creamy background, mild acidity, which nevertheless offers<br />
freshness in the finish. 13,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
78 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
OTTO UND MARTIN FREY<br />
Baden | WINERIES<br />
Im Brühl 1, 79211 Denzlingen<br />
T: +49 (7666) 5253, info@frey-weine.de<br />
www.frey-weine.de<br />
Cellar Door: Thursdays and Fridays 9–12 hrs and<br />
14–19 hrs, Saturdays 9–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Martin Frey<br />
Contact: Martin and Barbara Frey<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 100,000 (60 % white, 40 % red)/18 ha<br />
There are wines that you simply want to<br />
drink right now with good food, just<br />
because they prompt a natural, irresistible,<br />
and involuntary swallowing reflex. The<br />
Grauburgunder “Gneis” by Weingut Frey is<br />
just such a wine, it is also our Falstaff-Tip. It<br />
serves as a foundation for a sophisticated<br />
range with powerful, compelling and really<br />
mineral Pinots in both white and red. The Frey<br />
family really have dedicated themselves to this<br />
– with a clear division of responsibilities:<br />
While Otto Frey looks after the vines, son<br />
Martin looks after winemaking and cellar.<br />
Our compliments!<br />
92 2018 Glottertal Eichberg Chardonnay tr.<br />
Toasted hazelnuts on the nose, ripe apricot, pear and also<br />
passion fruit with a smoky ambience. Spicy on the palate,<br />
fine juice and texture, good extract, lots of spice, the powerful<br />
body is infused with a ripe but active acidity. Will still develop.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
pointed acidity, fine fruit and it’s finely polished. Juicy tannins<br />
contribute to the elegant style, mineral polish, good tension<br />
at the end. Potential. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2018 »Aigi« Spätburgunder *** trocken<br />
92 2019 Glottertal Eichberg<br />
Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
Wood spice on the nose, fumé, also chamomile and pear, expressive<br />
yet fine nose. Shows power, tension and spice on the<br />
palate and a firm structure, but also elegance and freshness.<br />
Well-balanced, skilful use of wood, mineral, long and young.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2019 »Aigi« Weissburgunder<br />
Chardonnay *** trocken<br />
Mirabelle plums, apple and pear on the nose, yellow flowers,<br />
fine smoke. Powerful and firmly-structured on the palate<br />
with good density, emphatically dry, balanced acidity and a<br />
mineral underpinning. The fine fruit contributes elegance -<br />
at the beginning of its development. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
93 2018 Glottertal Eichberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Concentrated aroma of cherry, spices like anise and fine<br />
toasted aromas. Substantial on the palate with good extract,<br />
90 2019 »Gneis« Grauer Burgunder ** tr.<br />
More stony components and minerality on the nose than<br />
primary fruit, nutty aromas and fine pear. Gripping on the<br />
palate with a ripe but lively acidity, good density and tension,<br />
powerful construction, generously developed with elegant<br />
fruit and spicy minerality. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
79
MAX GEITLINGER WEIN<br />
Am Neuweg 2, 79400 Egerten<br />
T: +49 (7626) 388, max@max-wein.de<br />
www.max-wein.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Max Geitlinger<br />
Contact: Max Geitlinger<br />
Hectares: 2 ha<br />
This is the first time Max Geitlinger presents<br />
his wine and immediately turns out<br />
to be a great success. On just two hectares<br />
he grows predominantly Spätburgunder,<br />
Gutedel and Müller-Thurgau – very much in<br />
tune with nature. “My wines are created by the<br />
interaction of tradition and innovation, of passion<br />
and time,” he writes. The carefully hand-harvested<br />
grapes ferment with natural yeast, are given<br />
time to mature and are bottled without filtration.<br />
This way of working resulted in down-toearth<br />
and yet filigree wines with lots of character.<br />
Taste this! The best way to do that is in the Gasthof<br />
Hirschen, which forms part of the estate.<br />
91 2018 Sauvignon Blanc Landwein trocken<br />
Some dill on the expressive nose, smoke, flowers, stone and<br />
bright fruit, fine apricot, which also reappears on the palate.<br />
Powerful and with good substance, the acidity is well woven in,<br />
skilfully balanced, orange blossom and also vegetal notes present<br />
this wine with a special character. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
88 2019 »Müller« Müller-Thurgau<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
90 2016 Pinot Noir extra brut<br />
Orange-tinted pink. Red berry, quince, discreet yeast hints on<br />
the nose. On the palate there is a rather brisk mousse, with<br />
crunchy acidity and a pleasantly low dosage. Hearty and vinous,<br />
medium density, a rosé for easy summer drinking or<br />
with food . 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2017 »maximal« Spätburgunder<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
Powerful, dark and spicy on the nose, black cherry, smoke<br />
and forest floor, also an ethereal tone and mineral hints.<br />
Dense on the palate with a lot of substance and spice, a lot of<br />
concentration, still closed, clear mineral hue, a lot of potential.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
90 2018 Spätburgunder Landwein trocken<br />
Smoky and herbaceous on the nose with delicate, silky<br />
scents of smoked bread and fine herbs. Strong structure on<br />
the palate, present and confident acidity, fine flowing juice,<br />
hard mineral grip, bright cherry, clear signature, clear profile.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2018 »Gut&Edel« Gutedel Landwein tr.<br />
Clear spontaneous nose with lots of spice and herbs, some<br />
clove, hop flowers, also cider and yeast. Taut and lean on<br />
the palate, yet also substance, phenolic grip in the middle<br />
of the palate, the acidity is present and well-integrated,<br />
fine astringency in the finish. Beautiful!<br />
11,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
80 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
GELDERMANN<br />
PRIVATSEKTKELLEREI<br />
Baden | WINERIES<br />
Am Schlossberg 1, 79206 Breisach am Rhein<br />
T: +49 (7667) 8340, info@geldermann.de<br />
www.geldermann.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 10–17 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–14 hrs, Sundays 13–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Marc Gauchey<br />
Contact: Marc Gauchey<br />
91 2016 »Geldermann Jahrgangssekt« brut<br />
A Champagne-like yeasty spiciness, plus grapey notes, medium-fine<br />
mousse on the palate. Also rather neutral fruit, ripeness,<br />
harmonious acidity, not too sweetly rounded, an appetising,<br />
slightly mineral-hued sparkling wine that will also<br />
work as a food wine. 12 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
There is much talk about the new German<br />
Sekt miracle and the young generation<br />
of German sparkling winemakers. The<br />
great names of Germany’s Sekt history thus often<br />
lose out being in the spotlight. The Geldermann<br />
Privatsektkellerei in Breisach, for instance,<br />
can look on a sparkling wine history going<br />
back to 1838. Their ethos has not changed:<br />
“We leave nothing to chance when making our<br />
premium sparkling wines,” writes cellar master<br />
Marc Gauchey. He notes that it starts with selecting<br />
the grapes and continues all the way<br />
through to traditional method bottle fermentation<br />
– and you can truly taste that!<br />
88 NV »Carte Blanche« Sekt trocken<br />
89 NV »Les Premiers« brut<br />
Lemon yellow in appearance with an evolving mousse in the<br />
glass. On the nose, a scent of hay, brioche, honeydew melon<br />
and quince. On the palate, good acidity which balances the<br />
slightly sweet aroma, complemented by ripe pineapple, nectarine<br />
and lemon zest nuances. Good finish. 12 Vol.-%. cork, €<br />
89 NV »Grand Rosé« Sekt trocken<br />
Medium orange in appearance. On the nose a fine scent of<br />
raspberry, ripe strawberry and a madarin tart note. On the<br />
palate also ripe apricot and dried apple notes, balanced by<br />
lively acidity. A medium-bodied sparkling wine with a good<br />
mousse. 12 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2016 Rosé brut<br />
Light pink with orange reflections. Intense fruit on the nose:<br />
rosehip jam, wild strawberry, very sweet on the palate, extra<br />
dry rather than brut, lively acid backbone, medium-fine<br />
mousse, an accessible sparkling wine that finishes as fruity<br />
as it smells. 12 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 NV »Geldermann Grand« brut<br />
Golden yellow hues with elegantly developing mousse in<br />
the glass. A rather cool aroma of lemon, apricot and brioche.<br />
This aroma is also evident on the palate, as well as<br />
orange zest and elderflower. The sparkling wine is finelybalanced<br />
and has a good drinking flow. 12 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
81
WEINGUT GREINER<br />
Bürgler Strasse 48, 79418 Schliengen<br />
T: +49 (1763) 2776202, info@weingut-greiner.com<br />
www.weingut-greiner.com<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Maximilian Greiner<br />
Contact: Maximilian Greiner<br />
Hectars: 1 ha<br />
Farming: in transition to organic<br />
Maximilian Greiner worked both at<br />
home and abroad after graduating<br />
from Geisenheim. In 2017 he moved<br />
back to the subregion of the Markgräflerland,<br />
“out of conviction”, and founded his own<br />
winery. He farms his one hectare biodynamically,<br />
because to him this is “the origin of great<br />
wines.” Greiner says that “wine is not just a result<br />
of nature but an expression of our mental<br />
attitude and of terroir.” He affords his wines<br />
sufficient time and rest in wooden barrels so<br />
they “develop of their own accord.” Exciting<br />
wines, a real discovery!<br />
92 2018 Weissburgunder Badischer<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
Berry, herbaceous, buttery, spring meadows, typical scents<br />
for the variety, with some wood influence. On the palate a<br />
great combination of substance and elegance, with juiciness<br />
and a very fine acidity. Very Burgundian with minerality. Gastronomic<br />
wine. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
way, artisanal tannins in medium-high quantity, slightly astringent,<br />
comparatively well-accompanied by fruit, a substantial<br />
wine. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
88 2018 Spätburgunder Rosé Saignée<br />
Badischer Landwein trocken<br />
89 2018 Chardonnay Badischer Landwein tr.<br />
On the nose there are notes of apple, apple peel, nuts, sesame<br />
seeds, herbal accents from the spontaneous fermentation.<br />
On the palate there is some texture, silky phenolics, lots<br />
of juiciness and a hint of sweetness with medium substance<br />
and length. Balanced Chardonnay. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2017 »Vulkan« Feuerbach Steingässle<br />
Spätburgunder Badischer Landwein tr.<br />
Smells unsulphured, some dried fig, plum and cassis. On the<br />
palate there is very fine, yet grippy, grainy tannin, good density<br />
and also texture, creamy background and a mineral tinge,<br />
ripe spice in the finish. An exciting design with potential.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2017 »Steinkreuz« Obereggenen<br />
Sonnenstück Spätburgunder Landwein tr.<br />
A very traditional Spätburgunder scent, almonds, sweet<br />
cherries and some milk chocolate. On the palate hearty in its<br />
90 2018 »Chasselas« Badischer<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
Spontaneous fermentation, herbs, apple peel and bread<br />
crust, grapey and mineral spiciness, some yeast. On the<br />
palate there is good tension, loosely-knit phenolics, dry but<br />
not harsh, quite linear in construction, but has texture and<br />
volume. Individual wine, also pairs well with food.<br />
12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
82 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT DR. HEGER<br />
Baden | WINERIES<br />
Bachenstrasse 19/21, 79241 Ihringen<br />
T: +49 (7668) 995110, info@heger-weine.de<br />
www.heger-weine.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays though Fridays 9–12 hrs and<br />
13.30–17.30 hrs, Saturdays 10–14 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Team Dr. Heger<br />
Contact: Joachim Heger<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 180,000 (70 % white, 30 % red)/28 ha<br />
While this winery in Ihringen charts a<br />
steady course, it is always open to<br />
lend a new perspective to received<br />
wisdom. The 2019 vintage of the Winklerberg Silvaner<br />
thus presents itself with so much bite and<br />
crunch that it no longer bears any resemblance to<br />
the ungainly Silvaner cliché of yesteryear. We believe<br />
in the renaissance of this often-reviled grape<br />
variety, which until not that long ago used to be<br />
the most important in Ihringen. Apart from that<br />
the estate continues at its customary, elevated<br />
standard, especially with the 2017 Spätburgunder<br />
Häusleboden at the top. A wine that impresses<br />
immensely by the very finest means.<br />
94 2018 Ihringen Winklerberg Hinter Winklen<br />
Gras im Ofen Grauburgunder GG<br />
A fragrance of flint, honeydew melon, but still rather closed.<br />
On the palate ripe and poised, delicate phenolics, mineral extract,<br />
rich and yet differentiated albeit round and balanced,<br />
slightly warming, but also with inner coolness. A refined<br />
wine. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
smoky wood notes. Taut and firm on the palate, dense, almost<br />
demanding tannins, embedded in suppleness and fullness.<br />
A powerful mineral underlay, still very compact and<br />
young. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
92 2018 Ihringen Winklerberg Hinter Winklen<br />
Gras im Ofen Weissburgunder GG<br />
94 2018 Ihringen Winklerberg Hinter Winklen<br />
Gras im Ofen Chardonnay GG<br />
Jasmine tea on the nose, apricot, ripe yellow apple, herbs,<br />
flint and smoky elements. On the palate smoky, with substance<br />
but also with acidity that is poised but present. Lots<br />
of substance and also power, but balanced and minerally underpinned.<br />
Long life. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
95 2017 Ihringen Winklerberg Wanne<br />
Häusleboden Spätburgunder GG<br />
Sour cherry, cherry stone, sweet almond and herbal spicy<br />
notes. On the palate, unbelievably substantial texture, and in<br />
an incredibly fine fashion. Intensive tactile mineral underlay.<br />
Structurally very long-lasting, fresh and juicy in the fruit, the<br />
focus is stone. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
94 2017 Achkarren Schlossberg<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Fresh clear cherry fruit, cherry stone, plus some coconut and<br />
91 2019 Ihringen Winklerberg Silvaner<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
Slightly citrusy on the nose, and clearly herbaceous. On the<br />
palate there is a lot of juiciness and firm acidity and quite a<br />
stately, smooth underpinned body. Intense tactile minerality.<br />
A structured, fresh Silvaner that will mature well.<br />
13 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
83
WEINGUT HEINEMANN<br />
Mengener Strasse 4, 79238 Scherzingen<br />
T: +49 (7664) 6351, weingut-heinemann@t-online.de<br />
www.weingut-heinemann.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 10–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Lothar Heinemann<br />
Contact: Lothar Heinemann<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 120,000 (65 % white, 35 % red)/18 ha<br />
Sometimes you just feel like repeating<br />
yourself: “Lothar Heinemann sticks to<br />
his philosophy and makes elegant, harmonious<br />
wines across the board. For him it is<br />
not about power but about layered elegance.”<br />
This is what we wrote about him last year and<br />
it is a great pleasure to say that it is as true now<br />
as it was then. This winemaker still makes a<br />
wonderfully light-footed Gutedel (aka Chasselas)<br />
at a mere 10.5% ABV. A wine that brings<br />
much joy. Amongst his top wines, his Weissburgunder<br />
“Selection SL Alte Reben” from the<br />
Ehrenstetter Ölberg site, shines with its mineral<br />
stringency.<br />
93 2019 »Selection SL Alte Reben«<br />
Ehrenstetter Oelberg Weissburgunder tr.<br />
Fine, herbaceous aroma, some smoke, delicate vanilla,<br />
quince, ripe pear, apple peel and a mineral underlay. Concentrated<br />
and firm on the palate, fine acidity, light fruits, mineral<br />
and stringent, good structure. An elegant Burgundian style<br />
wine. Lots of potential. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€€<br />
with grip, cherry fruits, blackcurrants, blackberries, good<br />
structure and length, ends long and elegant, will mature<br />
well. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2019 »Selection SR Reserve« Scherzinger<br />
Batzenberg Chardonnay trocken<br />
93 2019 »Selection SL Alte Reben«<br />
Scherzinger Batzenberg Chardonnay tr.<br />
After aeration, fine mineral scents emerge, apple, some<br />
quince, lemon balm, almond, plus crushed rock and a hint of<br />
vanilla. On the palate fine acidity, elegant structure, light<br />
fruits, apple, a mineral pull, underlaid with lime, densely woven,<br />
needs time. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
93 2017 »Selection SL Alte Reben«<br />
Scherzinger Batzenberg Spätburgunder<br />
Deep aroma of red fruits, sloe, cherry, herbal spice, fresh<br />
blackberry and a mineral underlay. Finely-chiselled tannins<br />
on the palate, red fruits, cherries, lots of spice and tension,<br />
elegance and power, densely woven. A Burgundian style wine<br />
with potential. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
92 2017 »Selection SR Reserve« Scherzinger<br />
Batzenberg Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Aromas of cherry, sloe, blackberry, smoke, a spicy underlay<br />
and delicate redcurrants. Fine tannins on the palate, ripe and<br />
90 2019 »Alte Reben« Scherzinger<br />
Batzenberg Gutedel Kabinett trocken<br />
Fragrance of fine white flowers, some pear and apple, hint<br />
of freshly-mown meadows. A distinct freshness. Fine acidity<br />
on the palate, balanced, apple and pear again, delicate,<br />
fine-boned, calm, classic dry Gutedel, versatile.<br />
10,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
84 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT HEITLINGER<br />
Baden | WINERIES<br />
Am Mühlberg 3, 76684 Östringen-Tiefenbach<br />
T: +49 (7259) 9112 0, info@weingut-heitlinger.de<br />
www.weingut-heitlinger.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Daniel Rupp<br />
Contact: Claus Burmeister<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 580,000 (60 % white, 40 % red)/80 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
It is especially with its red wines that Weingut<br />
Heitlinger proves its consistent performance.<br />
Their tendency to hang on to<br />
their Grosse Gewächse for a little while longer<br />
and release them at a slightly more advanced<br />
stage turns out to be a real boon for wine lovers.<br />
Their Königsbecher Spätburgunder from<br />
the 2016 vintage shows just how much potential<br />
slumbers at this Champions League level.<br />
Not a trace of tiredness, but elegance and complexity<br />
reward patience instead. We also liked<br />
the white Pinot-varieties a lot; the Chardonnays<br />
stood out in particular.<br />
92 2018 Tiefenbach Heinberg Chardonnay GG<br />
Smoky notes on the nose, pear and melon, fine smoky bacon,<br />
also yellow fruit and herbs. With good substance on the palate,<br />
juicy, elegant, spicy and dry, exhibiting tannic and phenolic<br />
tartness, ripe acidity. Good potential that will develop.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2018 Hilsbach Eichelberg<br />
Weissburgunder GG<br />
Mirabelle plums, almonds and delicate orange blossoms on<br />
the nose, with slightly smoky notes. Full-bodied and with a<br />
lot of minerality on the palate, which is mixed with subtle<br />
fruit aromas. Gripping, sinewy-muscular body. Wonderful<br />
saltiness in the finish, medium length.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
91 2018 Tiefenbach Hassapfel Auxerrois tr.<br />
Relatively closed, nuances of peach and fresh pineapple. Soft<br />
and creamy on the palate, taut minerality trumps the fruit by<br />
far - not so usual with this grape variety. A sinewy finish completes<br />
the good impression. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
93 2016 Odenheim Königsbecher<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Wide spectrum of aromas from blackberry to raspberry to<br />
slightly smoky woody notes. Gentle extraction, fine berry<br />
tannins and present but well-integrated acidity. A multi-layered<br />
Pinot that is just about to show its potential.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
91 2018 Tiefenbach Schellenbrunnen<br />
Riesling GG<br />
91 2018 Tiefenbach Spiegelberg<br />
Grauburgunder GG<br />
90 2018 »Reserve« Weissburgunder trocken<br />
90 2018 »Reserve« Grauburgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 Weissburgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 »Gemeinsam Seite an Seite im<br />
Weinberg« trocken CH/PG/AU/WB<br />
88 2018 »Reserve« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
90 2018 »Reserve« Chardonnay trocken<br />
Typical varietal aroma with slight exoticism, wild on the<br />
palate, not fenced in. Present fruit and striking acidity, medium-long,<br />
harmonious finish with spice and power. A good<br />
accompaniment to crispy chicken. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
85
WEINGUT HISS<br />
Hauptstrasse 31, 79356 Eichstetten am Kaiserstuhl<br />
T: +49 (7663) 1236, info@weingut-hiss.de<br />
www.weingut-hiss.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Manuel Mössner<br />
Contact: Andreas Hiss<br />
Hectares: 27 ha<br />
Nothing at Weingut Hiss is done by the<br />
book. The modern architecture stands<br />
out, wine ranges have unusual names<br />
like “Unanständig” (=indecent) and the labels<br />
depict scientists and explorers like astronomer<br />
Johannes Kepler reaching for the stars. This<br />
year the ambitious “Unlimited” range was introduced<br />
and immediately pulled out all the<br />
stops. Apart from the individualistic and mineral<br />
Müller-Thurgau, all the wines show the<br />
heat of 2018 which they translate into substance<br />
and power. These are prototypes which<br />
could well take the winery to another level.<br />
92 2018 »Unlimited« Chardonnay trocken<br />
Discreet woody notes, pear, ripe apricot, caramelised walnuts,<br />
yeast, citrus fruit and juniper berries. Soft and spicy on<br />
the palate with a distinguished cool style, fine and yet a fine<br />
present acid vein, powerfully-proportioned, pervaded by minerality.<br />
Potential! 14,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€€<br />
91 2018 »Unlimited« Müller-Thurgau trocken<br />
Fine woody notes on the nose, apple and herbs, nut aromas<br />
and some incense. Rather broad on the palate, juicy and supple,<br />
well-integrated wood, some apparent peach notes, finelychiselled<br />
acidity, mineral hue, ambitious Müller-Thurgau.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€€<br />
90 2018 »Unlimited« Grauer Burgunder tr.<br />
Pastel colours in the glass, Pinot berry scent, fine wood<br />
spice, some rosehip, green walnuts and liquorice. Spicy on<br />
the palate, some vanilla, noticeable residual sweetness with<br />
medium extract, the fine acidity provides balance. A special<br />
Pinot - sommelier wine. 15 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€€<br />
91 2017 »Unlimited« Pinot Noir trocken<br />
On the nose, ripe fruit, plums, figs, plus wood spice. On the<br />
palate there is a broad horizon, ripe acidity corresponding<br />
with ripe fruit, very ripe and soft tannins, also dark chocolate,<br />
dry. Already relatively advanced in its development.<br />
14,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€€<br />
90 2018 »Unlimited« Weissburgunder trocken<br />
89 2018 »Unanständig« Eichstetten<br />
Herrenbuck Eigenacker Weissburgunder tr.<br />
89 2018 Eichstetten Herrenbuck Wannenberg<br />
Müller-Thurgau trocken (Magnum)<br />
88 2019 »Eigenständig« Sauvignon Blanc tr.<br />
88 2019 »Eigenständig« Scheurebe trocken<br />
89 2017 »Unanständig« Eichstetten<br />
Herrenbuck Eichenlaub Spätburgunder tr.<br />
88 2018 »Bodenständig« Spätburgunder tr.<br />
90 2018 »Unanständig« Eichstetten<br />
Herrenbuck Hasen Grauburgunder tr.<br />
Gold with reddish tones in the glass. On the nose, pear,<br />
quince, roasted nuts, ripe apricot and smoke. On the palate<br />
there is juiciness, texture and spice, some caramel, sweetish<br />
extract in a powerful construction, soft, well-integrated<br />
acidity. A good perspective, also for food.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
86 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Baden | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT<br />
HÖFFLIN SCHAMBACHHOF<br />
Schambachhof, 79268 Bötzingen<br />
T: +49 (7663) 1474, info@weingut-hoefflin.de<br />
www.weingut-hoefflin.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Wednesdays 8.30–12 hrs,<br />
Thursdays, Fridays 14–17, Saturdays 10–16 and by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Matthias Höfflin<br />
Contact: Matthias Höfflin<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 70,000 (75 % white, 25 % red)/13 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
Some of the wines made by Matthias<br />
Höfflin feel like they are about to launch<br />
the tastebuds into a bungee jump: they<br />
move along the palate in such a compelling<br />
and exciting fashion, coated in phenolics and<br />
minerally charged. Yet they radiate the meditative<br />
calm of a zen priest at the same time.<br />
The wines oscillate between these twin poles<br />
of energy. They are the expression of intelligent<br />
viticulture that puts nature centre stage.<br />
Matthias Höfflin also manages to produce really<br />
clean, skin-fermented natural wines. This<br />
is why we awarded him with a fourth star.<br />
Congratulations!<br />
93 2018 »Prestige« Grauburgunder trocken<br />
Quince compote, pickled pear, pepper, smoky notes, dense<br />
nose. Juicy and fruity on the palate, powerfully-built, rich in<br />
extract and with good density and tension; varietally recognisable,<br />
nevertheless individually interpreted, also a mineral<br />
hue. Potential. 14,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2018 »Prestige Orange Wine«<br />
Souvignier Gris Landwein trocken<br />
Dried apricot, notes of black tea, herbs, a hint of pepper and apple<br />
peel. On the palate powerful, firm substance, also a little bold,<br />
but dynamic, good extract. The phenolics are nicely embedded in<br />
the texture. A clean, unique wine. 14,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2019 »Prestige« Gewürztraminer<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
On the nose recognisable as an aromatic variety, rose petals,<br />
tea, chamomile, apricot, also sage. Clear cut aromas on the<br />
palate, medium density, juice and depth, fine phenolics, ample<br />
tannin but not too impetuous. Very well vinified.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
94 2017 »Schwarzkehlchen Prestige«<br />
Spätburgunder Landwein trocken<br />
Cherry fruit, spices, hints of blood orange and bay leaf. Good<br />
acidity on the palate, compact, tight and also dense, exhibiting<br />
adequate respects for the fruit, with tension and traction.<br />
Dry and undisguised with grippy tannins, a nice flow, enormous<br />
tactile minerality. 12 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2018 »Weinschwärmer Prestige«<br />
Chardonnay Landwein trocken<br />
92 2019 »Prestige Maischevergoren«<br />
Müller-Thurgau Landwein trocken<br />
91 2018 »Bienenfresser Prestige«<br />
Sauvignon Blanc Landwein trocken<br />
90 2019 »Löss« Grauer Burgunder Landwein<br />
90 2017 »Löss/Lehm« Grauer Burgunder<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
92 2017 »Rotkehlchen Prestige«<br />
Spätburgunder Landwein trocken<br />
90 2017 »Rufus Prestige« Landwein<br />
trocken ME/CS/CF<br />
90 2019 »Löss« Weissburgunder Landwein tr.<br />
Blossoms on the nose, apple and tangerine, also herbs.<br />
Dense on the palate, harmonious, spicy and juicy on the<br />
palate, clear in expression, phenolic layers, fine tannins,<br />
finely-interlaced acidity. Elegant Pinot Blanc, also with inner<br />
values. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
87
WEINGUT HONOLD<br />
Am Hummelberg 1, 76684 Östringen<br />
T: +49 (7253) 278627, info@weingut-honold.de<br />
www.weingut-honold.de<br />
Cellar Door: Wednesdays through Fridays 10–12 hrs<br />
and 15–18 hrs, Saturdays 9–13 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Ludwig Honold<br />
Contact: Ludwig Honold<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 50,000 (70 % white, 30 % red)/8 ha<br />
Ludwig Honold has run this 1938-founded<br />
winery in Östringen in the Kraichgau subregion<br />
with its eight hectares of vineyards<br />
since 1985. He started making wine from fungal-resistant<br />
varieties, or PiWis, as they are known,<br />
as early as 2003 and thus was ahead of his time.<br />
His experience with three varieties clearly shows<br />
in the white blend “Ludwig’s Leidenschaft” which<br />
is made from Cabernet Blanc and Sauvignac and<br />
can be very pleasant with its opulent aromatics.<br />
His Auxerrois, well-structured and creamy, has<br />
turned out very well and we like to imagine it<br />
alongside a mushroom or chestnut risotto. A<br />
wineshop and bistro are also part of the estate.<br />
89 2019 »Ludwig's Leidenschaft« tr. CB/CAL<br />
"Ludwig's Leidenschaft" from Cabernet Blanc and Sauvignac,<br />
scents of blackcurrant and ripe exotic fruit. Lively acidity<br />
meets a dash of sweetness and ripe fruit on the palate,<br />
generous in aromatics, candied orange peel in the finish.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
88 2018 «Pinot« trocken WB/CH/PG<br />
Blend of Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris, depicts<br />
wood ageing with scents of pear, roasted chestnut and<br />
quince. On the palate powerful and with a lot of spice, wood<br />
notes. Dry and firm in structure but still needs time to develop.<br />
14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2018 »Reserve« Östringen Rosenkranzweg<br />
Lemberger Spätlese trocken<br />
Blackberry and elderberry on the nose, also black cherry,<br />
strong woody aromas, spice and a slight ethereal tone, wet<br />
leather too. Shows great volume on the palate, rather restrained<br />
extract content, obvious acidity, red fruits. Pairs well<br />
with meat dishes. 14,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2018 Östringen Ulrichsberg Merlot trocken<br />
Spicy and generous nose with blackberry and cherry<br />
notes, also black cherries, cooked fruit, woody notes, juniper<br />
berries and wet forest floor. Full on the palate, dry in<br />
expression, medium extract, ripe acidity, the tannins are a<br />
bit astringent, great wih meat. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 Auxerrois trocken<br />
Spicy nose with herbs and ripe pear, also yellow fruit and<br />
some hop blossom. Powerful on the palate, good structure<br />
and pleasant juiciness with texture. The balanced acidity<br />
blends in well, slight phenolic hint. A pleasure to have in<br />
the glass, ideal with chestnut risotto.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
88 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Baden | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT BERNHARD HUBER<br />
Heimbacher Weg 19, 79364 Malterdingen<br />
T: +49 (7644) 929722 0, info@weingut-huber.com<br />
www.weingut-huber.com<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 14–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–12 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Julian Huber<br />
Contact: Barbara and Julian Huber<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 145,000 (30 % white, 70 % red)/28 ha<br />
Within a few years, Julian Huber has<br />
honed his style into great conciseness<br />
and reliable recognisability:<br />
the red wines retain their full, but uncommonly<br />
fresh fruit throughout the spontaneous ferment,<br />
the white wines show a virtually spiky<br />
freshness and tension. He manages to pulverize<br />
every last bit of that prejudice of reputedly ungainly<br />
Baden wine. Huber’s work not only rests<br />
on having a trustworthy and cooperative team<br />
but on the fact that the vines root in the very<br />
best limestone islands of the loess-covered Breisgau<br />
subregion. Masterful handling of barrique<br />
barrels also plays a significant part.<br />
94 2018 »Alte Reben« Malterdingen<br />
Chardonnay trocken<br />
Discreet fragrance, lightly toasted wood, nutty notes, toasted<br />
sesame, a floral marigold nuance and orange blossom. On<br />
the palate there is taut acidity, strong tactile minerality and<br />
an arc of tension relegating the evident smoother elements<br />
to the second rank. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
distinctly Burgundian in style, a great intersection of spice,<br />
fruit and minerality. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2018 Köndringen Alte Burg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
95 2018 »Alte Reben« Malterdingen<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Fragrant, red fruit jelly, sweet cherry, chalky undertones. On<br />
the palate punchy and deep, powerful tactile minerality, lively<br />
acidity, fine but also fresh tannins albeit grainy and firm<br />
acidity. A multi-layered Burgundy made for the long haul.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
94 2018 Malterdingen Bienenberg<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Wild cherry, earthy notes and candied cherry. Silky to finegrained<br />
tannins on the palate, grippy, juicy, taut acidity,<br />
slightly denser than medium weight in extract, pointedly<br />
compacted finish with a good length. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2018 Malterdingen Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Animalistic spice and spontaneous fermentation notes, sour<br />
cherry. On the palate there is a delicate silky onset, fine acidity<br />
and tactile minerality present early on. Medium density,<br />
93 2018 »Malterdinger« trocken CH/WB<br />
Smoky wood, discreet varietal aromas, slight buttery nuances,<br />
citrus-fruit and savoury notes. A chalky mineral<br />
character on the palate, pithy, with a hint of green tones,<br />
but without aggression, extract binds the acidity. Lots of<br />
drive, excellent length. 12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
89
WEIN- UND SEKTGUT HUMMEL<br />
INHABER DANIEL RHEIN<br />
Oberer Mühlweg 5, 69254 Malsch<br />
T: +49 (7253) 27148, info@weingut-hummel.de<br />
www.weingut-hummel.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 17–19 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–14 hrs and by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Daniel Rhein<br />
Contact: Daniel Rhein<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 48,000 (45 % white, 55 % red)/ 8 ha<br />
Much has changed and evolved since<br />
Daniel Rhein joined Wein- und Sektgut<br />
Hummel in 2015. He started out<br />
as cellar master but soon took over the entire<br />
estate. New grape varieties were planted, Sekt<br />
production was increased, permanent green<br />
cover was introduced in the vineyards, alongside<br />
selective harvesting. Then there is the fact<br />
that the wines are given sufficient time to develop<br />
depth and longevity. A whole bunch of<br />
measures which are reflected in the rising quality<br />
of the wines. Alongside the substantial<br />
Chardonnay “Reserve”, the powerful and savoury<br />
red wines are most convincing.<br />
91 2017 »Reserve« Malsch Ölbaum<br />
Chardonnay trocken<br />
Ripe apricot on the nose, also dried apricot and candied walnuts<br />
and honey wafer notes. Powerful and buttery on the palate<br />
with a nice fine spicy base, some cinnamon, candied orange<br />
peel, both power and alcohol are well-integrated. Can<br />
mature and pairs well with food. 15 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2017 »RR« Malsch Rotsteig<br />
Spätburgunder Auslese trocken<br />
Ruby red with a slight rim brightening. Spicy and smoky nose,<br />
with scents of raspberry, wild strawberry, rosehip and some<br />
smoky bacon. Powerful and broad on the palate, good extract<br />
and ripe acidity that sets the tone, monumental Auslese with<br />
a lot of power. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
91 2017 »Reserve« Malsch Rotsteig<br />
Lemberger trocken<br />
Blackberry and mulberry in the intense nose, balsamic spice,<br />
fresh beetroot and ground ginger, smoke. Dry, spicy and powerful<br />
on the palate, notes of tobacco, ripe tannin, the acidity<br />
is there and stays, elderberry, tart freshness, ideal with<br />
braised meat. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2017 »Cuvée Rouge« Malsch Rotsteig<br />
Spätlese trocken PN/ME/SY/RE<br />
Blend of Merlot, Pinot Noir, Syrah and Regent, which smells<br />
spicy of ripe red fruit, black cherry and blackberry with spicy<br />
and smoky notes. On the palate there is good freshness and<br />
lively tannins, which supports the freshness, fine astringency,<br />
great wih meat. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 NV »Auguste« Riesling brut<br />
89 2019 Malsch Ölbaum Auxerrois<br />
Kabinett trocken<br />
89 2019 Malsch Ölbaum Grauburgunder<br />
Kabinett trocken<br />
88 2019 Malsch Ölbaum Sauvignon Blanc<br />
Kabinett trocken<br />
88 2019 Malsch Ölbaum Weissburgunder<br />
Kabinett trocken<br />
89 2017 Malsch Ölbaum Spätburgunder tr.<br />
88 2019 »Pineau de Muscat«<br />
Gelber Muskateller<br />
89 2019 »Saignée Rosé« Malsch Rotsteig<br />
Kabinett trocken<br />
Rosé of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and<br />
Syrah, light salmon pink in the glass. On the nose, berry-like -<br />
raspberry and redcurrants. Well-balanced on the palate,<br />
juicy, fruity and also fresh, discreet fruit sweetness and also<br />
texture with a fine tannin tang. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
90 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT KILIAN HUNN<br />
Baden | WINERIES<br />
Rathausstrasse 2, 79288 Gottenheim<br />
T: +49 (7665) 6207, mail@weingut-hunn.de<br />
www.weingut-hunn.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–12.30 hrs<br />
and 14.30–19 hrs, Saturdays 9–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Kilian Hunn<br />
Contact: Martina and Kilian Hunn<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 190,000 (75 % white, 25 % red)/24 ha<br />
Kilian and Martina Hunn present wines<br />
of substance, savouriness and proper<br />
mouthfeel. The “Reserve” range in particular<br />
demonstrates the couple’s skilful use of<br />
wood, like for instance the original Viognier<br />
and the layered Sauvignon Blanc Fumé. Those<br />
who have the patience to lay these wines down<br />
for a while will be richly rewarded. The Pinot<br />
Noir also comes across with power and body,<br />
lending itself perfectly to hearty food. The savoury<br />
and elegant Auxerrois “Junge Wilde” is<br />
our Falstaff-Tip. Sons Jonas and Patrick are<br />
also raring to go, succession is thus secured.<br />
91 2017 »Reserve« Viognier trocken<br />
Expressive aroma with ripe citrus fruits, passion fruit, papaya,<br />
apple compote and lots of toasted aromas. Juicy. On the<br />
palate there is lots of texture and spice, no lack of power and<br />
substance, the balanced acidity carries into a long finish. Not<br />
quite at the end of its possibilities. 14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 »Junge Wilde« Grauburgunder tr.<br />
91 2017 »Reserve« Fumé Blanc trocken<br />
Intense and spicy aroma of blackcurrant and ripe, exotic<br />
fruit, underpinned by strong toasted aromas and also a hint<br />
of vanilla. Full-bodied on the palate and rich in extract, lots of<br />
spice and a dash of sweetness, ripe acidity, concentrated and<br />
multi-layered. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 »Junge Wilde« Weissburgunder tr.<br />
Tangerine and yellow blossoms on the aromatic fragrance, also<br />
apple and passion fruit. Compactly-built on the palate, firm structure<br />
and good extract, the ripe fruit also enriches the palate, plus<br />
spiciness, balanced acidity, juice and texture. A multi-layered<br />
wine, pairs well with fish and vegetables. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2016 Pinot Noir trocken<br />
Berry nose, cherry, raspberry, smoky notes, bay leaf, some<br />
pepper. Great volume on the palate, broadly laid out with decent<br />
power and texture, juicy and with balsamic spice, underpinned<br />
by ripe acidity. Shows all the merits to accompany<br />
hearty food. 14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2018 »Junge Wilde« Auxerrois trocken<br />
Pear and Reine Claude plums on the nose, also toasty notes,<br />
fine wood spice and roasted nuts. Opens juicy and soft on the<br />
palate, along with a present spiciness, powerful structure<br />
and balanced acidity, fine fruit sweetness in the background.<br />
With substance and also elegance. 13,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
91
WEINGUT<br />
GEBR. MATHIS KALKBÖDELE<br />
Enggasse 21, 79291 Merdingen<br />
T: +49 (7668) 33 40 10, weingut@kalkboedele.de<br />
www.kalkboedele.de<br />
Cellar Door: Tuesdays throughs Fridays 10–12 hrs and<br />
14–17 hrs, Saturdays 10–13 hrs and by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Manfred Zimmermann<br />
Contact: Sonja Mathis<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 100,000 (40 % white, 60 % red)/15 ha<br />
Weingut Kalkbödele was founded in<br />
1978 by the Mathis brothers and<br />
is run by Sonja Mathis today.<br />
Manfred Zimmermann is both director and<br />
cellar master, continuing the long tradition of<br />
maturing wines in barrique with aplomb. This<br />
winery was, after all, amongst Baden’s pioneers<br />
of maturing wines in smaller oak barrels.<br />
Kalkbödele, the estate’s name, refers to the<br />
limestone reef of the Tuniberg subregion.<br />
Right from the start the estate specialised in<br />
red and white Pinot-varieties. Those looking<br />
for wines rich in substance and chalky minerality<br />
will not be disappointed.<br />
90 2018 »Réserve« Chardonnay trocken<br />
Strong lemon yellow, intense and spicy nose, toasted aromas<br />
mixed with ripe fruit, pear and stone fruit. Broad and deep on<br />
the palate, depicts the warm vintage with power and substance,<br />
the alcohol binds well, charming heavyweight. Pairs<br />
well with hearty food. 15 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2016 Pinot Noir trocken<br />
90 2018 Pinot Gris trocken<br />
Powerful aroma with oak spice, juniper berry, pear, quince,<br />
blueberry, ripe pineapple and a hint of curry powder. Broad.<br />
On the palate there is good substance and power, the ripe<br />
and present acidity provides balance. Dry and spicy, no lightweight.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2017 »Mathis Cuvée Pinot Blanc« brut<br />
Brioche, yeast pastry, apricot and white flowers on the nose,<br />
also a hint of rose. On the palate, freshness, texture and<br />
sweetness combine to a harmonious formula, juicy, not too<br />
complex in its structure. A great aperitif that also goes well<br />
with starters. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2016 »Tradition« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Smoky ambience, rosehip, strawberry and wood spice.<br />
Strong construction. On the palate there is substance and<br />
power, well-woven acidity, strawberry notes again, slightly<br />
jammy, the tannins are concise, distinctive, dry and unadorned.<br />
Ideal for Sunday roast. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2018 Pinot Blanc trocken<br />
Ripe apricot is accompanied by fine herbs and wood spice<br />
in a full bouquet. Also on the palate there is ripe fruit and<br />
intensity, good substance, the lively acidity provides movement,<br />
mineral spice underpins the middle of the palate. A<br />
multi-layered wine. 13,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
92 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT FRANZ KELLER<br />
Baden | WINERIES<br />
Badbergstrasse 44, 79235 Vogtsburg-Oberbergen<br />
T: +49 (7662) 93300, keller@franz-keller.de<br />
www.franz-keller.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–18 hrs, Sundays 10–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Uwe Barnickel<br />
Contact: Fritz Keller<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 200,000 (65 % white, 35 % red)/35 ha<br />
If any football analogies are to be permitted in<br />
this wine guide, then certainly in connection<br />
with Fritz Keller, owner of this winery. For<br />
years he was the president of football club SC Freiburg,<br />
until he became president of the Deutscher<br />
Fussballbund, Germany’s football association.<br />
Just as the wonderful Spätburgunder Steinriese<br />
from the 2018 vintage started performing in the<br />
glass, we were reminded of the sensational goal<br />
scored by Freiburg’s striker Nils Petersen on 27<br />
January 2018 – spirited from a proud distance of<br />
40 metres in the 68th minute of play against<br />
Borussia Dortmund. That particular stroke of genius<br />
was declared ‘goal of the year’ in 2018.<br />
94 2018 Oberrotweil Kirchberg<br />
Chardonnay GG<br />
Smoke and flint on the nose, pear and melon, some pumpkin<br />
chutney. Focused and straightforward on the palate, avoids<br />
opulence, density and also phenolics, vinified for longevity,<br />
but can be enjoyed and appreciated in the short run. Elegant<br />
and supple. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
96 2018 Oberbergen Steinriese<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Wow! A scent you can smell for hours. Rather unusual. Wild<br />
strawberry, nasturtium and a little iron, one could go on and<br />
on. Strong acidity and elegant tannins on the palate, intricately<br />
interwoven, pervaded by minerality. Very individual.<br />
We like it. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
94 2018 Achkarren Schlossberg<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Smoky new wood, redcurrants, piquant fresh fruit. On the<br />
palate, plump, typical for the vineyard, but then slims down,<br />
lots of juiciness, fine acidity, very good tactile minerality. The<br />
finish is medium-weight in fruit. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
94 2018 Jechtingen Enselberg<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Smoky wood, dried tomato, cherry, flinty - mineral spicy<br />
notes. On the palate there is classic proportions: firm tannins<br />
in medium-high quantity, well-integrated acidity, tactile-mineral<br />
interplay, still closed on the nose, concise single-site<br />
wine. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2018 Achkarren Schlossberg<br />
Grauburgunder GG<br />
92 2018 Oberbergen Bassgeige<br />
Chardonnay Erste Lage trocken<br />
92 2018 Oberbergen Pulverbuck<br />
Weissburgunder Erste Lage trocken<br />
91 2019 Oberbergen Bassgeige<br />
Weissburgunder Erste Lage trocken<br />
88 2019 »vom Löss« Grauburgunder trocken<br />
93 2018 Oberrotweil Eichberg<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
93 2018 Oberbergen Bassgeige<br />
Spätburgunder Erste Lage trocken<br />
93 2016 »Pinot Rosé« brut<br />
Beautifully fruity with initial whiffs of raspberry, red apple,<br />
fine yeast and smoke. On the palate, freshness, pure fruit,<br />
texture and elegance interweave in a pleasurable liaison. A<br />
dense and complex structure. Outstanding sparkling wine<br />
in its price class! 12 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
93
WEINGUT HARALD KEMPF<br />
Oberer Mühlweg 9C, 69254 Malsch<br />
T: +49 (7253) 278500, info@weingut-kempf.de<br />
www.weingut-kempf.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Harald Kempf<br />
Contact: Harald Kempf<br />
Hectares: 2 ha<br />
It was in 2001 that Harald Kempf founded<br />
his little “Bonsai” estate in Malsch with<br />
almost two hectares of vines in the<br />
Malscher Ölbaum site. The first variety he<br />
planted was Sankt Laurent, followed by Pinot<br />
Noir and Blaufränkisch. “Quality is made in<br />
the vineyard and less is more,” Kempf says.<br />
Manual work and artisanship are foremost in<br />
this endeavour. In his subregion of Kraichgau,<br />
Kempf is a known specialist for red wines, a<br />
fact he proves impressively with his blend<br />
“Grand Malheur” of Pinot Noir, Blaufränkisch<br />
and St. Laurent. If only every mishap, or<br />
malheur, would provide so much pleasure.<br />
89 2017 Malsch Ölbaum St. Laurent trocken<br />
Smells of almond kernels, mulberries, cherries, redcurrants<br />
with a spicy wood note and a dash of pepper. Spicy and peppery<br />
on the palate, ripe acidity, compact structure, the tannins<br />
are ripe and carry well. Aromatically beautiful, fine<br />
astringency and a hint of cinnamon. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €<br />
89 2019 Malsch Ölbaum Chardonnay<br />
Spätlese trocken<br />
89 2017 Malsch Ölbaum Blaufränkisch tr.<br />
Powerful nose with black cherry, spices, smoke and toasted<br />
aromas, juniper berry and pepper. Compact and powerfullybuilt<br />
on the palate, the ripe dark fruit is accompanied by a lot<br />
of spice, balanced acidity with still slightly furry tannins.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2017 Pinot Noir trocken<br />
Cherry on the nose, almond stones, marzipan, sloe, also a<br />
touch of rosehips and blood oranges. Spiciness on the palate,<br />
pleasant freshness, the ripe acidity is well-integrated, compact<br />
structure, present tannins with fine astringency, spicy<br />
finish. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 Malsch Ölbaum Weissburgunder<br />
Spätlese trocken<br />
Mirabelle plums, apple and herb scents. On the palate, the<br />
characteristics of a classic Spätlese with powerful structure,<br />
ripe fruit and acidity, sweet extract and some residual sweetness.<br />
Finely-rounded, ideal with with scallops and pasta with<br />
a mushroom cream sauce. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2017 »Cuveé Grand Malheur« Malsch<br />
Ölbaum trocken PN/BF/SL<br />
Blend of Pinot Noir, Blaufränkisch and St. Laurent, scents<br />
of cherry, blood orange and blueberry, wood spice and mocha.<br />
Juicy and spicy. On the palate there is present ripe<br />
acidity, smooth tannins and its well-balanced. Nice when a<br />
Grand Malheur tastes like this. 13 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
94 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT AM KLOTZ<br />
Baden | WINERIES<br />
Auf der Festung 2, 79588 Efringen-Kirchen<br />
info@weingut-am-klotz.de<br />
www.weingut-am-klotz.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Team Weingut am Klotz<br />
Contact: Friedrich Keller, Herbert Reinecker<br />
Hectares: 4 ha<br />
The Isteiner Klotz is one of Germany’s<br />
most impressive limestone formations,<br />
where the vines root directly on pure,<br />
white coral limestone – categorised geologically<br />
as a Jurassic limestone. Two families, the<br />
Kellers from Oberbergen and the Reineckers<br />
from Auggen, bought this Weingut am Klotz<br />
in 2019 and have run it together since. “Time<br />
and again this terroir astonishes and enthuses<br />
us,” says Friedrich Keller. New vineyards are<br />
to be planted and there are plans for Sekt as<br />
well as still wines. The very first vintage already<br />
shows that great things are in store.<br />
90 2018 »Kalk & Löss Weiss« Landwein<br />
trocken WB/PG/CH<br />
An intensely spicy smell rises from the glass. Roasted almond<br />
and dried fig with a dash of orange zest. Minerality and<br />
acidity on the palate are more or less on a par. The finish is<br />
quite long and characterised by a chalky minerality.<br />
12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
However, a bit more density on the palate wouldn't hurt.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2018 Istein Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Inviting nose with sour cherry, cardamom, peppery notes - reductive,<br />
fresh, and fun. On the palate, it could almost have a<br />
bit more extract. The tannin is discreet, the acidity a bit in the<br />
background. Cool wine, one looks forward to what is still to<br />
come. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2018 »Kalk & Löss« Spätburgunder<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
A bouquet of ripe raspberries with intense sage aromas. On<br />
the palate, it has a slightly rustic bitterness and a rather medium<br />
acidity structure. A Spätburgunder with a strong character<br />
and yet quite slender with clear mineral definition.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2018 Istein Cabernet Sauvignon trocken<br />
Smells like roasted red peppers in the oven with the continuity<br />
of making juice out of them. Sweet, spicy plus a hint of balsamic<br />
vinegar and blackcurrant. Fine tannins, lean.<br />
90 2019 »Kalk & Löss« Gutedel<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
Reminiscent of acacia honey on the nose with a hint of vine<br />
peach, subtle also spicy scents with mineral undertones.<br />
On the palate, lean and tightly-built, emphatically dry and<br />
straightforward with a rather intense acidity and chalky<br />
taste. Strong. 11,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
95
WEINGUT KLUMPP<br />
Heidelberger Strasse 100, 76646 Bruchsal<br />
T: +49 (7251) 16719, info@weingut-klumpp.com<br />
www.weingut-klumpp.com<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–12 hrs and<br />
14–18 hrs, Saturdays 9–13 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Markus Klumpp<br />
Contact: Andreas and Markus Klumpp<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 180,000 (75 % white, 25 % red)/32 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
Andreas and Markus Klumpp once<br />
again submitted their white single-site<br />
wines from the 2018 vintage and they<br />
duly benefited from the extra ageing: like the<br />
subtly savoury, mineral Chardonnay from the<br />
Kirchberg site. In 2019 they also added an<br />
Ortswein (i.e. village wine) range which is supposed<br />
to illustrate the typical souls of the region<br />
and vinified deliberately bone-dry. We<br />
immediately loved the Chardonnay “Muschelkalk”<br />
with its freshness and chalky mouthfeel.<br />
The two red Pinots from the 2017 vintage<br />
turned out really well with clear fruit and fine<br />
tannins. They make you want to drink more!<br />
92 2018 Unteröwisheim Kirchberg<br />
Chardonnay trocken<br />
Fine spice, apple peel, flowers and a little smoke on the nose.<br />
Well-balanced. On the palate there is a calm flow and ripe<br />
acidity, yellow apple and tangerine as fruit, some lime juice,<br />
fine spiciness that lasts into the finish with a mineral polish.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
some blackberry. Well-balanced on the palate with vivid<br />
fruit, finely-chiselled acidity and ripe, fine-grained tannins<br />
coated in juicy fruit, good structure. An elegant Pinot.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2019 »Muschelkalk« Bruchsal<br />
Chardonnay trocken<br />
91 2018 Bruchsal Rothenberg<br />
Grauburgunder trocken<br />
Spicy and berry nose, honeydew melon, pear peel and nutty<br />
notes. Shows texture and juice on the palate in combination<br />
with spice, the acidity is present and transports citric notes.<br />
Not a blockbuster but nicely crafted and with elegant facets,<br />
lively. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
93 2017 Bruchsal Weiherberg<br />
Pinot Noir trocken<br />
Smoky nose accompanied by cherry, herbal, toasty aromas.<br />
On the palate there is good balance, vivid fruit and the precise<br />
acidity go well together, delicate spice, shows tension<br />
and grippy, ripe tannins, also edge and profile. Burgundian<br />
flair. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2017 Bruchsal Rothenberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Fine spicy nose with smoke and toasty aromas, cherry and<br />
91 2018 Unteröwisheim Kirchberg<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Clearly defined nose with fine spice, flowers, nutty aromas,<br />
mirabelle plums and spices - a whiff of allspice. Soft and<br />
juicy flow on the palate, apple emerges, fine spice, the<br />
wood is integrated, good substance. A clearly-structured<br />
and elegant balanced acidity, citric tones.<br />
13 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
96 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT KNAB<br />
Baden | WINERIES<br />
Hennengärtle 1a, 79346 Endingen<br />
T: +49 (7642) 6155, info@knabweingut.de<br />
www.knabweingut.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 17–18.30 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–14 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Johannes Rinker<br />
Contact: Johannes Rinker<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 150,000 (70 % white, 30 % red)/23 ha<br />
The wines of Weingut Knab have always<br />
been good. However, it is a real joy to<br />
witness how Johannes Rinker has continued<br />
to make an even stronger mark ever<br />
since he returned to Endingen in 2016 to take<br />
the reins in the cellar, after graduating and<br />
working abroad. Both white and red Burgundies<br />
have gained in tension, intensity and finesse.<br />
In the warm subregion of the Kaiserstuhl<br />
they show cool minerality, like the Weissburgunder<br />
Wihlbach and Grauburgunder<br />
Steinhalde. These are wines which, just like the<br />
exquisite Spätburgunder, can age for a long<br />
time. Things here are continuously on the up!<br />
92 2019 Endingen Wihlbach<br />
Weissburgunder *** trocken<br />
Medium lemon yellow. Very clear and fine scent of honeysuckle,<br />
white peach and lemon peel. These aromas, also tomato<br />
, are beautifully integrated by fine acidity. In the long<br />
finish, discreet woodiness and minerality blend in very well.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
acidity and again very clean further aromas of hibiscus and<br />
raspberry. Young fine tannins, good use of wood and a long<br />
finish. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2018 »Quintessenz« Endingen Engelsberg<br />
Spätburgunder Beerenauslese<br />
92 2019 Amoltern Steinhalde<br />
Grauburgunder *** trocken<br />
Defined scent of violets, elderflower, yellow peach and lemon.<br />
On the palate also flavours of walnut and redcurrants. All<br />
balanced by very fine acidity. A very long finish develops from<br />
light phenolic and mineral notes. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
93 2018 Endingen Wihlbach<br />
Spätburgunder *** trocken<br />
Dark cherry, blackberry, blueberry and clove on the nose. On<br />
the palate there is drive, good acidity and further flavours of<br />
juniper, rose petal and bacon. Ripe tannin, fine finish and<br />
structure give potential. Significant finish.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2018 »R« Amoltern Steinhalde<br />
Spätburgunder *** trocken<br />
Medium ruby. Precise scent of black cherry, ripe red cherry,<br />
cedar and smoke. On the palate a medium weight body, lively<br />
89 2019 Endingen Engelsberg<br />
Weissburgunder Kabinett trocken<br />
A pure fragrance of lemon zest, peach and wet stone. On<br />
the palate also flavours of blackcurrant leaf, walnut and<br />
lime. Balanced with fine acidity. The exciting finish adds a<br />
slightly salty note and some smoke. A versatile food wine.<br />
13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
97
WEINGUT KNAPP<br />
Gunzenbachstrasse 17b, 76530 Baden-Baden<br />
T: +49 (7221) 280 80, info@weingut-knapp.de<br />
www.weingut-knapp.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9.30–12.30 hrs,<br />
Thursdays and Fridays 14.30–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Urban Jung<br />
Contact: Heinz Knapp<br />
Hectares: 8 ha<br />
Things are happening in Baden-Baden: the<br />
town handed over some six hectares of its<br />
municipal vineyards in the Silberbuckel,<br />
Eckberg and Schafberg to the care of Weingut<br />
Knapp. The fruit of the labours that have already<br />
gone into this project demanding both renewal and<br />
preservation – one hectare of old Riesling vines<br />
could painstakingly be rehabilitated – already<br />
bring great joy. The Riesling from the Mauerberg<br />
site is a bundle of joy that carries Baden’s conviviality<br />
in its heart. With grape varieties like Merlot,<br />
Sauvignon Blanc and Grüner Veltliner, both Heinz<br />
Knapp and his cellar master Urban Jung emphasise<br />
the fact that the future has already begun.<br />
90 2018 Neuweier Mauerberg Riesling trocken<br />
A spicy, already-fully-developed Riesling aroma, lemon balm,<br />
lime, peach and apricot. On the palate there is a mild, round<br />
impression, present pronounced fruitiness, firm acidity,<br />
strong body, discreet mineral tones, yellow fruit on the finish.<br />
You can taste the south. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap<br />
88 2019 Spätburgunder Rosé trocken<br />
89 2018 Veltliner trocken<br />
Powerful and spicy nose with apple, citrus fruit and pear, also<br />
some white pepper. Also on the palate good intensity, powerful,<br />
with texture, juice and spice, shows an opulent side, but<br />
keeps balance and structure. Some passion fruit, good<br />
length, consistent. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap<br />
89 2018 Pinot Blanc trocken<br />
Flowers in the powerful nose, some lavender, apples and<br />
Reine Claude plums. On the palate there is a lot of spice and<br />
good substance, ripe fruit and ripe acidity reinforce the generous<br />
appearance, light phenolic astringency provides another<br />
facet, juicy finish. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap<br />
89 2018 Merlot trocken<br />
Spicy and herbal nose with ripe dark fruit, blackcurrant and<br />
black cherry, allspice and ground ginger. On the palate grippy<br />
with present acidity and prominent tannins, good substance<br />
and the generosity of 2018. Mocha and elderberry nuances on<br />
the finish. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork<br />
90 2018 Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Passion fruit and green pepper on the powerful nose,<br />
flanked by blackcurrant. Powerful construction on the palate<br />
with good extract, pronounced spice and a confident<br />
acidity, the ripe fruit supports the full-bodied impression,<br />
good length. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap<br />
98 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT KOPP<br />
Baden | WINERIES<br />
Ebenunger Strasse 21, 76547 Sinzheim<br />
T: +49 (7221) 803601, info@weingut-kopp.com<br />
www.weingut-kopp.com<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 14–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–13 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Johannes Kopp<br />
Contact: Johannes Kopp<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 150.000 (50 % white, 50 % red)/30 ha<br />
Johannes Kopp has set his goals single-mindedly:<br />
the estate with its 30 hectares<br />
of vineyards is in conversion to organic<br />
viticulture. In September 2020 Kopp<br />
started construction of a new winery building<br />
with a modern wine shop, restaurant and a<br />
barrique cellar open to visitors – all of that<br />
with an unobstructed view of the Upper Rhine<br />
plain. All these developments, however, should<br />
not make us neglect the wines: The Spätburgunders<br />
are striking and made to last, the Rieslings<br />
are subtle and full of character, the Chardonnay<br />
“Altenberg” is dense and phenolic.<br />
Compliments!<br />
92 2018 »Terrassenlage« Sinzheim Klostergut<br />
Fremersberg Feigenwäldchen Riesling tr.<br />
Individual nose with notes of apple peel, spicy wood and spices<br />
like caraway and anise. Lean and tightly-built. On the palate<br />
there is good extract, phenolic and mineral elements. Unconventional<br />
and with character, good potential for further<br />
development. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2018 Sinzheim Altenberg Chardonnay tr.<br />
The nose still bears witness to the wood ageing, some woody<br />
perfume notes and toasted aromas, plus yellow fruit, quince<br />
and some pumpkin. Strong and compact structure on the<br />
palate, shows density and volume, but also phenolic and<br />
mineral notes. Can increase further, good substance.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
93 2017 Varnhalt Sommerhalde<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Lots of Pinot Noir on the nose, cherry, fine toasted aromas,<br />
some blood orange and forest nuances. Very good balance<br />
on the palate, power and freshness gives harmony, finely-chiselled<br />
acidity, demanding tannins that will further develop.<br />
Mineral and youthful. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2017 Sinzheim Klostergut Fremersberg<br />
Feigenwäldchen Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Cherry in the closed nose, smoke and mineral hints. Smooth<br />
on the palate, fine juiciness, slenderly-built with good freshness<br />
and finely-intergrated acidity, distinct minerality. Potential!<br />
Only available in magnum and double magnum bottles.<br />
12 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2018 Varnhalt Röderswald<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
90 2018 »Buntsandstein« Sinzheim<br />
Klostergut Fremersberg Feigenwäldchen<br />
Riesling feinherb<br />
89 2019 Chardonnay trocken<br />
89 2019 »Lösslehm« Weissburgunder trocken<br />
88 2019 Grauburgunder trocken<br />
91 2017 Varnhalt Sonnenberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
90 2017 »Roter Porphyr« Spätburgunder tr.<br />
90 2017 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Cherry and spices on the nose, herbs, raises expectations.<br />
With clear fruit on the palate, lean, tight and compact,<br />
seems natural and a little wild, also good density and distinctive,<br />
grippy tannins. A lot of Pinot for the money and a<br />
boon at the table! 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
99
LÄMMLIN-SCHINDLER<br />
Müllheimer Strasse 4, 79418 Schliengen-Mauchen<br />
T: +49 (7635) 440, weingut@laemmlin-schindler.de<br />
www.laemmlin-schindler.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–12 hrs and<br />
14–18 hrs, Saturdays 9–12 hrs and 14–16.30 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Gerd Schindler, Friedhelm Maier<br />
Contact: Gerd Schindler<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 19 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
This organic estate in Schliengen-Mauchen<br />
stands for excellent craftmanship and<br />
calm wines in the best sense of the word.<br />
They show both balance and structure and age<br />
very well, as demonstrated by some of the older<br />
vintages that were submitted for tasting. Of the<br />
wines from the warm 2018 vintage, it is the Chardonnay<br />
Grosses Gewächs from the Mauchener<br />
Frauenberg site that really convinces with tension,<br />
the heat had no negative influence on it. The<br />
Spätburgunder “Alte Reben” from 2016 shows<br />
fine minerality. Worth noting: when you are in<br />
the area you absolutely have to stop at the Gasthaus<br />
that also forms part of the estate!<br />
93 2018 Mauchen Frauenberg Chardonnay GG<br />
Clear, rich yellow. On the nose fresh pear, apple, some rose<br />
water, light flowers, delicate vanilla and a hint of brioche. On<br />
the palate nice texture, quince, fine phenolics, tension, fruit<br />
extract, invigorating acidity. Ageing potential.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
balanced acidity, rich, tension and power, juicy. Great with<br />
meat. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2019 Mauchen Weissburgunder trocken<br />
91 2018 »Selektion« Mauchen Sonnenstück<br />
Grauburgunder Erste Lage trocken<br />
Rich, clear yellow. On the nose ripe pear, almond paste, apple<br />
peel, some quince and smoke; rich notes. On the palate a nice<br />
texture with brioche, pear again, pleasant tension, much extract,<br />
some melon, good structure and length. Ideal with veal<br />
in a mushroom sauce. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2016 »Alte Reben« Mauchen<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Rich, dark red. On the nose sloe, sour cherry, smoke, some<br />
redcurrants and blackberry hints, spicy notes with a nuanced<br />
mineral underlay. Finely-polished tannins on the palate, grippy,<br />
red fruits, redcurrants, cherry, good structure and pleasant<br />
length. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2017 »FRAUenFELS« trocken CU/ME<br />
Rich dark red shimmers. Dark red fruit on the nose, blackberry,<br />
plum, ripe red fruits, and hints of smoke in the background.<br />
On the palate rich, ripe tannins, red fruit, blackberry,<br />
89 2019 Mauchen Rosé trocken<br />
Salmon colour. On the nose spicy, raspberry, strawberry,<br />
some redcurrants and slightly deeper notes of herbal<br />
spice. On the palate delicate red fruit, invigorating acidity,<br />
raspberry again, harmonious with nice tension, finishes on<br />
fresh fruit, good with food. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
100 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT LANDMANN<br />
Baden | WINERIES<br />
Umkircher Strasse 29, 79112 Freiburg im Breisgau<br />
T: +49 (7665) 6756, info@weingut-landmann.de<br />
www.weingut-landmann.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8.30–18.30 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 8–18 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Tino Scholz<br />
Contact: Jürgen Landmann<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 150,000 (55 % white, 45 % red)/29 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
This is the right place to stick up for the<br />
genre of quiet wines, wines that don’t<br />
wow with powerful and loud arguments<br />
but with fine nuance, sensitively harmonised<br />
balance, clear fruit expression and moderate<br />
alcohol levels. The wines of the organically-certified<br />
Weingut Landmann belong to<br />
this latter category – which makes them a little<br />
atypical for Baden. It is cellar master Tino<br />
Scholz who is responsible for this style who<br />
was responsible for making the wines in 2019,<br />
his first vintage here. All the wines have this in<br />
common. How wonderful that we can look<br />
forward to more.<br />
90 2019 Chardonnay trocken<br />
Spicy notes on the nose, citrus fruit, yellow apple and pear,<br />
also flowers and meadow herbs. Slenderly-built on the palate<br />
there is good extract, slightly salty and citric hints, balanced<br />
acidic structure. No loud stylistics, coherent and compact.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 »Pinot Noir Rosé« trocken<br />
89 2019 Pinot Blanc trocken<br />
Yellow flowers on the nose, mirabelle plums, apricot and<br />
nutty aromas and floral notes. Fruity and juicy on the palate,<br />
yellow fruit and also fine lemon juice. Mild acidity, fine structure,<br />
with pleasant spiciness in the middle of the palate,<br />
calm and coherent. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €<br />
89 2019 Riesling<br />
A grapey, fruity fragrance, pineapple and white currant.<br />
Lightweight on the palate, quite fresh acidity, restrained<br />
sweetness in a fine tart style, juicy finish, a very neat varietal<br />
expression, balanced and expressive with good length.<br />
11,5 Vol.-%. DIAM, €<br />
89 2019 »Cuvée La Tuni« tr. WB/MT/CH/SB/PG<br />
Blend of five grape varieties that offers a fruity aroma of<br />
apple and citrus notes, flowers and apricots. Juicy and finely-crafted.<br />
On the palate there are apple notes and a balanced,<br />
mild acidity. Not a daredevil but quiet and spicy.<br />
11,5 Vol.-%. DIAM, €<br />
89 2019 Pinot Gris trocken<br />
Pear and a dash of fresh pineapple juice on the nose, spicy<br />
notes, fresh bay leaf, apple sauce. On the palate juicy and<br />
underlaid with fine spice, slight tartness of apple peel,<br />
slenderly-built with mild acidity, slightly phenolic. A solid<br />
food wine. 13 Vol.-%, cork, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
101
MAIER BIO WEINGUT BADEN<br />
Karlsruher Strasse 8, 76532 Baden-Baden<br />
T: +49 (7221) 64197, info@weingutmaier.de<br />
www.weingutmaier.de<br />
Cellar Door: Tuesdays through Fridays 9–12 and<br />
15–18 hrs, Saturdays 9–13 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Volker Maier<br />
Contact: Volker Maier<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 55,000 (70 % white, 30 % red)/8 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
This two-metre giant and former<br />
shot-putting athlete Volker Maier who<br />
cultivates eight hectares of vineyards between<br />
Baden-Baden and Bühlertal, has a fine<br />
sense of humour: his labels state “Bio-Weine<br />
(mit Wucht)” which translates into ‘organic<br />
wines with ooomph’ and the wines themselves<br />
also carry punchy names like the red “Re(d)volution”<br />
made from the varieties Prior, Monarch,<br />
Cabernet Cortis and Cabernet Carbon which<br />
would go well with a barbecue. But Maier is<br />
multi-talented: his Scheurebe brims with playful<br />
charm. A very coherent range of wines that<br />
convince with their unpretentious character.<br />
90 2018 »SI« Neuweier Mauerberg Riesling tr.<br />
Candied pineapple on the nose, followed by ripe stone fruit<br />
aromas. Supple and round on the palate, very poised, the<br />
acidity appears later on and remains discreet, intense yellow<br />
fruit, ripe peach and apricot. An accessible and charming<br />
wine with accentuated fruit. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
88 2019 Weissburgunder trocken<br />
90 2018 »HF« Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
Smoky notes at first on the nose, some liquorice and juniper<br />
berries, deeper scents of pear and quince. On the palate, juicy<br />
and smooth, ripe acidity, underpinned by powerful spice, compact<br />
and firmly composed. Substantially rich Pinot Gris, ideal<br />
with guinea fowl in cream sauce. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2018 »Josefa« Gewürztraminer trocken<br />
Smoke and rose petals on the nose, also mango. On the palate<br />
dry with a lively acidity and some carbon dioxide, intense<br />
fruit aromas, texture, again ripe mango. It depicts the aroma<br />
spectrum of Gewürztraminer. Great with food!<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2018 »Re(d)volution« tr. CC/MON/CAC/PO<br />
Blend of Prior, Monarch, Cabernet Cortis and Cabernet Cabon.<br />
Quite dark in the glass, blackberry, elderberry and plum<br />
on the nose, also tea and ink. On the palate there is lots of<br />
fruit, which is in the foreground, also power, substance and<br />
spice. Ideal with braised dishes and beef. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 Scheurebe<br />
Fruity and intense aromas of blackcurrant and passion<br />
fruit, lots of varietal typicity. Slenderly-built on the palate,<br />
independent acidity coated by fine sweetness, charming<br />
interplay to which the polished fruit contributes, fine spiciness.<br />
11 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
102 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Baden | WINERIES<br />
<br />
MARKGRAF VON BADEN -<br />
GUTSBETRIEB SCHLOSS STAUFENBERG<br />
77770 Durbach<br />
T: +49 (781) 42778<br />
weinverkauf@schloss-staufenberg.de<br />
www.schloss-staufenberg.de<br />
Cellar Door: Tuesdays through Sundays 11–19 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Martin Kölbe and Frédéric Kirch<br />
Contact: Volker Faust<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 140,000/21 ha<br />
The majestic Staufenberg mountain is a<br />
landmark from whence Baden wine<br />
history was written. It was right here<br />
that the Margraves of Baden had the first single-varietal<br />
Riesling vineyard planted in their<br />
realm, as early as 1782. With its rich savouriness<br />
and a southerly, generous, almost convivial<br />
nature, the “Klingelberger K” (Klingelberger<br />
being the local synonym for Riesling) grown<br />
on that historic parcel today is worthy of the<br />
ancient feat. Across the board a certain upward<br />
trajectory is clearly evident. The Spätburgunders<br />
have already joined Baden’s topranks.<br />
92 2018 »Klingelberger K« Durbach Schloss<br />
Staufenberg Riesling GG<br />
Grapey on the nose, Reine Claude plums, apple compote, but<br />
also discreet balsamic and peppery terroir notes. Supple in<br />
the attack, far reaching and poised, the volume is filled with<br />
texture, a delicate layer of phenolics and ripe acidity. Terpenic<br />
spicy finish. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2018 Durbach Schloss Staufenberg<br />
Chardonnay Erste Lage trocken<br />
Reductive aromas and smoky wood. Needs more air contact.<br />
Supple on the palate, poised by mineral extract, delicate phenolics,<br />
ripe acidity and creaminess go well hand in hand. Finishes<br />
round and with texture, but also with juiciness and fine<br />
minerality. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
93 2017 Durbach Schloss Staufenberg<br />
Sophienberg Spätburgunder GG<br />
Small red berries, almond, cranberry, some mint, thyme, discreet<br />
wood nuances and wormwood. Oily background, delicate<br />
fruity sweetness and a very fine extract, silky and with<br />
an additional dimension of grip, lots of juice and mineral elegance.<br />
A delicate fruity finish. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2018 Durbach Schloss Staufenberg<br />
Spätburgunder Erste Lage trocken<br />
Fresh cherry fruit on the nose. On the palate, mellow tannins,<br />
texture, supple base, ripe but sufficiently-supporting acidity<br />
and lively fruit. The location and the pleasingly "cool" year<br />
predesigned this clear minerality in the finish.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2019 Durbach Schloss Staufenberg<br />
Grauburgunder Erste Lage trocken<br />
90 2019 Durbach Grauburgunder trocken<br />
90 2019 Durbach Schloss Staufenberg<br />
Sauvignon Blanc Erste Lage trocken<br />
90 Riesling extra brut<br />
89 2019 »Klingelberger« Riesling trocken<br />
91 2017 Durbach Spätburgunder trocken<br />
A spicy cherry fruit, some yeast, herbs, cherry stones, marzipan.<br />
Tautly-built on the palate, good density, grainy tannins,<br />
lots of juiciness, lively acidic nerve, intense tactile-mineral<br />
background, a quite complete Ortswein with<br />
further prospects for maturity. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
103
WEINGUT MARKGRAF VON BADEN<br />
Schloss Salem, 88682 Salem<br />
T: +49 (7553) 81284, weingut@mbweinhaus.de<br />
www.markgraf-von-baden.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Martin Kölble and Frederic Kirch<br />
Contact: Volker Faust<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 1,200,000 (55 % white, 45 % red)/135 ha<br />
The vineyards on Lake Constance belonging<br />
to the Margrave of Baden are<br />
amongst the highest in all of Germany:<br />
formed by ice age glaciers, they reach altitudes<br />
of up to 460m/1509ft. This altitudinal provenance<br />
lends freshness and expressiveness to<br />
these wines, the lake itself boosts their fruit<br />
and elegance. These are wines that want to<br />
convince with their finesse, creaminess and<br />
spice, like for instance the Spätburgunder<br />
from the Bermatinger Leopoldsberg site. Likewise,<br />
the juicy Müller-Thurgau, clear as a bell,<br />
illustrates all the merits of a typical Seewein, or<br />
Lake Constance wine.<br />
89 2019 Birnau Weissburgunder trocken<br />
On the nose Reine Claude plums with herbs and ripe yellow<br />
apple, also citric notes. Juicy on the palate, texture which is<br />
complemented by spice, the acidity is lively and is again accompanied<br />
by citrus notes, lean and compactly-built. Ideal<br />
for the table. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 Birnau Grauburgunder trocken<br />
Ripe pear and some quince on the nose, blossoms and almonds.<br />
On the palate there is a slender stature, dry and with<br />
fine spice and juice, some citrus fruit, the vivid acidity provides<br />
flow, shows profile and provenance. Pair well with pasta<br />
and chicken. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
88 2019 Weissburgunder trocken<br />
88 2019 Grauburgunder trocken<br />
87 2019 Spätburgunder Rosé trocken<br />
89 2018 Bermatingen Spätburgunder trocken<br />
89 2018 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
91 2016 »B« Bermatingen Leopoldsberg<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Red fruit in the berry fragrance, cherry and raspberry, plus a<br />
little smoke and spices. A finely-extracted, elegant Pinot Noir<br />
with local colour, which convinces with subtlety and nuances.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2018 Bermatingen Leopoldsberg<br />
Spätburgunder Erste Lage trocken<br />
Spicy bouquet with cherry, redcurrants and rosehip, spices and<br />
floral notes. Fruity and juicy on the palate, there is clear expression,<br />
power with substance, balanced acidity and a good tannic<br />
structure. Elegant, finely-crafted Pinot. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 Birnau Müller-Thurgau trocken<br />
Herbal and spicy nose with apple and flowers, also mirabelle<br />
plums. Slim and filigree in texture, again with fruity<br />
and clear apple notes, precise acidity that strives forward,<br />
juicy, spicy and with texture. Müller-Thurgau that shows a<br />
lot of Lake Constance. 11,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
104 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
MARKGRÄFLER WINZER<br />
Baden | WINERIES<br />
Winzerstrasse 2, 79588 Efringen-Kirchen<br />
T: +49 (7628) 91140, h.ruedlin@markgraeflerwinzer.de<br />
www.markgraeflerwinzer.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 9–13 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Martin Leyh and Rainer Müller<br />
Contact: Hagen H. Rüdlin<br />
Hectares: 940 ha<br />
After we were only able to taste the matured<br />
wines of the Markgräfler Winzer<br />
co-op’s prestige range last year, we<br />
were now able see more of their broader range<br />
– and what a range it is: ever since the co-op left<br />
the notions of the former “Bezirkskellerei”, or<br />
regional winery, behind, they have looked<br />
ahead to the future. Under the direction of<br />
Hagen H. Rüdlin, this cooperative makes very<br />
fairly-priced wines from 940 hectares of vineyards<br />
that do not have to fear comparison with<br />
wines from private estates. An intelligent and<br />
ambitious business model for a co-op – not just<br />
for Baden. Big compliment!<br />
92 2018 »DER« Chardonnay trocken<br />
Still yeasty on the nose, discreet varietal aromas, grain and<br />
scents of limestone. On the palate very well-balanced, powerful,<br />
ripe acidity, slightly salty, slightly supple, has a bit of<br />
everything and maintains great balance. An extremely refined<br />
Chardonnay. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2018 »DER« Chardonnay Landwein trocken<br />
Some citrus fruit, herbs, some wood, a little spontaneous fermentation,<br />
but not too demanding. Smooth setting, ripe<br />
acidity, a hint of phenolics, lots of juiciness, medium extract<br />
density, a rather good country wine, close to the conventional<br />
model. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
91 2017 »Kunstwerk« Feuerbach Steingässle<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Clear new wood, dark berry, elderberry, juniper, conifer and<br />
pepper. Full on the palate, fine-grained tannins in a powerful<br />
amount albeit slightly stemmy, tactile mineral tones, acidity<br />
well-suited to the body. Aromatically still closed, built for<br />
bottle ageing. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2018 »DER« Spätburgunder Landwein tr.<br />
Ripe fruit, sultana, very ripe raspberry and wild strawberry and a<br />
hint of malt. On the palate quite relaxed and silky to creamy tannin,<br />
ripe acidity, fruity accompaniment, the warmth of the year<br />
is noticeable, but is staged quite elegantly by mild flow.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2016 Pinot Blanc brut<br />
89 2019 »Kunstwerk« Istein Kirchberg<br />
Gutedel trocken<br />
89 2019 »Handwerk« Ötlingen Sonnhole<br />
Chardonnay trocken<br />
89 2018 »Kunstwerk« Ehrenstetten Oelberg<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 »Kunstwerk« Ballrechten-Dottingen<br />
Castellberg Grauburgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 Handwerk Blansingen Wolfer<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
88 2019 »Handwerk« Ehrenstetten Rosenberg<br />
Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
91 2015 »Kunstwerk« Grenzach Hornfelsen<br />
Rotwein trocken PN/CC<br />
First development on the nose: chocolatey, latte with the<br />
clear use of wood followed by almond notes, redcurrants<br />
and herbs. Rather more "German" Spätburgunder than Pinot<br />
Noir, but complex. Finely-textured tannins on the palate,<br />
ripe acidity, smooth foundation. 13,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
105
STAATSWEINGUT MEERSBURG<br />
Seminarstrasse 6, 88709 Meersburg<br />
T: +49 (7532) 446744,<br />
info@staatsweingut-meersburg.de<br />
www.staatsweingut-meersburg.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 9–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Johannes Brückner<br />
Contact: Marion Schäfer<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 400,000 (50 % white, 50 % red)/63 ha<br />
The former riding stables which now<br />
house the Meersburger Staatsweingut<br />
sit imposingly and majestically above<br />
vines and lake. The site portfolio of this federal-state-owned<br />
estate is just as exalted. Over<br />
the past few years these privileged conditions<br />
were reflected more and more in the glass –<br />
which had moved us to consider once again<br />
awarding a third star to this estate. Johannes<br />
Brückner, the young cellar master who took<br />
full responsibility with the 2019 vintage, has<br />
introduced himself with remarkably good<br />
Rieslings. Bravo! We shall keep this estate on<br />
our three-star watchlist.<br />
92 2019 Meersburg Rieschen Riesling trocken<br />
Peach, tangerine and grapey notes, followed by slightly muscaty<br />
aromas, ripe citrus fruit, plus a earthy tone - as if it derived<br />
from warm sandstone. On the palate juicy and salty,<br />
ripe, supporting acidity and a fruit-backed sweetness, clear<br />
tactile minerality, independent. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
92 2019 Meersburg Bengel Riesling feinherb<br />
Citrusy, fresh citrus zest, lemon balm, also damp stone and<br />
warm brick. A juicy, tense palate with very good sweetness-acidity<br />
interplay, with great elegance and a crystalline<br />
lightness in everything, a wine from the lake at the highest<br />
level. 11 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
92 2018 Meersburg Rieschen<br />
Traminer feinherb<br />
Rose and smoky notes, fresh fruity-grapey scents, candied<br />
fruits and a notion of cassata. On the palate creamy, viscous,<br />
comparatively strong sweetness, good acid backbone, high in<br />
intensity, medium in length, a slight mineral tinge. Elegant<br />
Gewürztraminer. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
91 2018 »Grosses Gewächs« Meersburg<br />
Lerchenberg Spätburgunder<br />
Still reserved on the nose, dark berry, elderberry, tobacco,<br />
chocolatey and buttery tones. Silky and very round on the palate,<br />
powerful by fine means, strong but integrated alcohol,<br />
present tactile minerality, "warm" fruit, good length.<br />
14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
91 2019 Meersburg Rieschen<br />
Grauburgunder trocken<br />
91 2019 »Grosses Gewächs« Meersburg<br />
Chorherrnhalde Chardonnay<br />
89 2019 Hohentwiel Olgaberg<br />
Müller-Thurgau trocken<br />
89 2019 Meersburg Chorherrnhalde<br />
Chardonnay & Weissburgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 Spätburgunder Weissherbst trocken<br />
89 2018 Hohentwiel Olgaberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
90 2019 Meersburg Bengel Spätburgunder<br />
Weissherbst trocken<br />
Dark salmon colour with orange reflections. On the nose really<br />
old school Weissherbst in style, a touch of overripeness,<br />
some quince, beeswax and apple peel. On the palate there is<br />
arrow-straight acidity on a smooth background, a touch of<br />
phenolics and a good substance. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
106 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Baden | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WINZERVEREIN MEERSBURG<br />
Kronenstrasse 19, 88709 Meersburg<br />
T: +49 (7532) 4316 0, info@meersburger.de<br />
www.meersburger.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Valentin Wagner<br />
Contact: Martin Frank<br />
Hectares: 57 ha<br />
This long-established cooperative on<br />
Lake Constance holds surprises. Their<br />
range “Winzerstolz”, i.e. winemaker’s<br />
pride, is a real feat for the team around Martin<br />
Frank and Valentin Wagner. With their clear<br />
fruit expression and accuracy, the wines are<br />
downright disarming. They show real substance<br />
like the Grauburgunder, supported by<br />
oak ageing, well-channelled power like the opulent<br />
Weissburgunder or smooth accessibility<br />
like the berry-tastic Spätburgunder. The lake is<br />
emblazoned in gold - and rightly so, on the label<br />
of the Muskateller, which shows this variety<br />
from its elegant, cabinet-like side. Delightful!<br />
91 2018 »Winzerstolz« Meersburg<br />
Sängerhalde Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
A hint of wood, complex and clear fruit, berry and citrus<br />
tones with a hint of Charentais melon. On the palate there is<br />
power and substance, lively acidity, concentrated fruit, good<br />
substance, lots of suppleness. A very complete Pinot Gris full<br />
of potential. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
90 2019 Meersburg Sängerhalde Riesling tr.<br />
A finely-nuanced Riesling fruit, peach, a hint of honey, lemon<br />
balm. On the palate there is good balance, delicate sweetness,<br />
cultivated acidity, slender in alcohol, with discreet<br />
tangy freshness, not too sweetly-tuned. A quite complete<br />
juicy Riesling. 12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2018 »Winzerstolz« Meersburg Sonnenufer<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Fragrant, spicy with scents of hay, spring meadows, aniseed<br />
pastry and some yeast. On the palate quite powerful,<br />
full-bodied, ripe and a delicate texture, lively acidity, a big<br />
bruiser, but definitely in balance. Ideal accompaniment to<br />
high-quality cuisine. 14,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
90 2018 »Winzerstolz« Meeersburg<br />
Fohrenberg Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Blackberry and elderberry, a hint of wood, discreet herbaceous<br />
notes. On the palate juicy and silky, clear, full fruit, combines<br />
texture and structure, has an elegant layout and is clearly<br />
mineral-coloured with a homogeneous length. A perfectly<br />
good wine. 14,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
89 2019 Meersburg Sängerhalde<br />
Müller-Thurgau trocken<br />
88 2019 Meersburg Sonnenufer<br />
Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
88 2019 Meersburg Sonnenufer<br />
Chardonnay trocken<br />
88 2019 »Pinot Noir Blanc de Noirs«<br />
Meersburg Sonnenufer trocken<br />
87 2019 Müller-Thurgau feinfruchtig<br />
88 2019 Meersburg Sängerhalde<br />
Spätburgunder Weissherbst feinherb<br />
87 2019 Meersburg Sonnenufer<br />
Spätburgunder Rosé trocken<br />
90 2019 Meersburg Fohrenberg<br />
Gelber Muskateller<br />
Exuberant spiciness on the nose, freshly-grated nutmeg,<br />
citric notes, some yeast. On the palate juicy, bundled, racy<br />
acidity, fine sweetness supporting the spiciness, good substance<br />
and yet light-footed and elegant. Beautiful Muskateller.<br />
11,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
107
WEINGUT MOOSMANN<br />
Schwarzwaldstrasse 78, 79183 Waldkirch-Buchholz<br />
T: +49 (7681) 7574, genuss@weingut-moosmann.de<br />
www.weingut-moosmann.com<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–18.30 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 8–18.30 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Georg Moosmann and Marco Hammer<br />
Contact: Mathias Hall<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 190,000 (50 % white, 50 % red)/25 ha<br />
It was in 1986 that Siegfried Moosmann<br />
started vinifying his own wines, in 1994 his<br />
son Georg Moosmann took over the reins<br />
in the cellar and took over the running of the estate<br />
in 2014. They now have 25 hectares of<br />
vineyards, in the villages of Buchholz, Mundingen<br />
and Herbolzheim at the foot of the Black<br />
Forest. While the focus clearly is on red and<br />
white Pinot-varieties, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc<br />
and Muskateller also get good attention. Strong<br />
investments over recent years into modern cellar<br />
equipment meant that grapes can now be<br />
treated even more gently. A most successful debut<br />
and new addition to this wine guide!<br />
92 2018 Buchholz Sonnhalde Riddele<br />
Grauer Burgunder Spätlese trocken<br />
"Gris" in colour, bright reflections, dried fruit on the nose, but<br />
also a sparkle of flint. On the palate supple, silky, broad with<br />
ripe acidity and powerful but integrated alcohol as well as<br />
lively, intense and long lasting tactile minerality.<br />
14,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
93 2018 »Alte Reben« Buchholz Sonnhalde<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Elderberry and apple, subtle nutty wood notes, overtones of<br />
thyme and liquorice. On the palate there is enormous texture<br />
by the finest means, the silky phenolics are coupled with intense<br />
tactile minerality, the creamy background carries acidity,<br />
fruit and extract. Has depth! 14 Vol.-%. cork, €<br />
92 2017 Buchholz Sonnhalde Am Rebhäusle<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Bitter chocolate, toasty notes, mocha, herbal bitters. Very<br />
ripe vintage. Creamy and oily onset, taut, grainy tannins, vivid<br />
and slightly increasing acidity on the palate. A sturdy core for<br />
years of bottle ageing to come. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
94 2018 Opal S »Aus eingetrockneten Trauben«<br />
Gelber Muskateller Deutscher Wein<br />
Golden in colour with golden yellow reflections. On the nose<br />
a delicate muscat fruit, candied peach, mango, nutmeg. Viscous<br />
onset, intensely substantial mid palate, concentrated<br />
acidity, generous sweetness and a salty finish. Great length.<br />
9,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
91 2019 Herbolzheim Kaiserberg<br />
Gelber Muskateller trocken<br />
90 2018 Buchholz Sonnhalde Reichenbächle<br />
Riesling Spätlese trocken<br />
90 2018 Buchholz Sonnhalde Reichenbächle<br />
Chardonnay Spätlese trocken<br />
90 2018 Buchholz Sonnhalde Riddele<br />
Weissburgunder Spätlese trocken<br />
90 2019 Buchholz Sonnhalde<br />
Gewürztraminer Spätlese<br />
89 2019 Buchholz Sonnhalde Grauer<br />
Burgunder Kabinett trocken<br />
90 2018 Buchholz Sonnhalde Spätburgunder<br />
Spätlese trocken<br />
90 2017 »Pinot« brut<br />
The nose reveals ripe mirabelle plums and Pinot fruit, raspberry,<br />
citrus fruit, spicy and floral notes. Direct and lively<br />
acidity, which provides a lot of dynamism on the palate.<br />
Taut and spicy, but also juicy and with texture. Dry and animating.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
108 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT NÄGELSFÖRST<br />
Baden | WINERIES<br />
Nägelsförst 1, 76534 Baden-Baden<br />
T: +49 (7223) 35550, info@naegelsfoerst.de<br />
www.naegelsfoerst.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Annette Bähr<br />
Contact: Steffen Röll<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 185,000 (75 % white, 25 % red)/33 ha<br />
The stylistic serenity at Weingut Nägelsförst<br />
is on a steady trajectory. In 2016<br />
the estate was taken over by a family of<br />
Franconian industrialists and ever since, director<br />
Steffen Röll and cellar master Annette Bähr<br />
have been honing their very own wine style.<br />
The estate owns parcels in prime, steep sites<br />
like Neuweierer Mauerberg and Varnhalter<br />
Klosterbergfelsen. The terroir of these sites<br />
finds particular expression in the minerally<br />
and defined Riesling and the Spätburgunders<br />
which are full of tension, benefiting from very<br />
skilful handling of wood. A really strong performance!<br />
93 2019 »Steilflug« Varnhalt<br />
Klosterbergfelsen Riesling trocken<br />
Peach on the nose, mint, basil and candied orange peel. Powerfully-composed.<br />
On the palate there is good volume and<br />
extract, the acidity is pointed and carries well, not too sweet,<br />
juicy, texture and with clear mineral definition. Shows style<br />
and character. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
is good texture and tension, good extract, dry and without<br />
kitsch, with mineral foundations, the vital acidity provides<br />
movement, full of character. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2019 »Umweg zum Glück«<br />
Chardonnay trocken<br />
91 2018 »Luft & Liebe« Steinbach Stich den<br />
Buben Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Fine wood spice, smoky notes, honeydew melon, flowers,<br />
nuts and herbs. Shows a wide horizon on the palate, texture<br />
and juice, sensitively-integrated wood, the acidity is ripe and<br />
present, good substance, elegant and still not at the end of<br />
its possibilities. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
93 2017 »Engelstaub« Bühlertal Engelsfelsen<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Mint on the nose with herbal spice, floral notes, blueberry,<br />
wood spice, some black tea. Powerful and taut on the palate,<br />
tension, well integrated nervy acidity, dry, the tannins are<br />
prominent and ripe. Clear mineral imprint.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2017 »Herzenslust« Varnhalt<br />
Klosterbergfelsen Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Herbal spicy notes on the nose, woody notes, ink, allspice, juniper<br />
berries, floral notes and blueberry. On the palate there<br />
91 2019 »Steinwurf« Riesling trocken<br />
Peach and apricot in the fruity nose, some leafy greens and<br />
also passion fruit, spicy hints too. Slender. On the palate<br />
there is a confident acidity, mineral underpinning, fine<br />
fruity notes, stone fruit again, also fine fruit sweetness,<br />
multi-layered. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
109
KAISERSTÜHLER WINZERVEREIN<br />
OBERROTWEIL<br />
Bahnhofstrasse 31, 79235 Oberrotweil<br />
T: +49 (7662) 93200, info@winzerverein-oberrotweil.de<br />
www.winzerverein-oberrotweil.de<br />
Cellar Door: Monadys through Fridays 8–12.30 hrs and<br />
13.30–17.30 hrs, Saturdays 8.30–12.30 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Leopold Laible<br />
Contact: Roland Leininger<br />
Hectares: 420 ha<br />
The cooperative of the Kaiserstühler Winzerverein<br />
Oberrotweil was founded in<br />
1935 in order to give the local growers a<br />
proper outlook for the future. Today there are<br />
around 220 members cultivating 420 hectares<br />
of vineyards in sites like Käsleberg, Henkenberg<br />
and Eichberg with much dedication. The<br />
different terroirs – there are loess and loam soils<br />
alongside the weathered volcanic soils – are the<br />
foundation of the diverse range of wines. However,<br />
this co-op does not only look back on a<br />
long history, it also relies on its young members<br />
who have really convinced us with their range<br />
called “557 m ü. NN.”. Do taste this!<br />
90 2019 Oberrrotweil Käsleberg Grauer<br />
Burgunder Spätlese trocken<br />
Fruity nose of pears and apples, also ripe stone fruit like<br />
peach, dried herbs. On the palate juicy and with a good dose<br />
of sweetness, clear, charming fruit, harmonious and balanced,<br />
with good substance, spicy finish, good on its own but<br />
also with food. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
powerful sweetness, honey, rather restrained acidity, fine<br />
phenolics, peach juice, roasted almonds, much power and<br />
length. Definite potential. 10 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
88 2019 Oberrotweil Käsleberg<br />
Grauburgunder Kabinett trocken<br />
89 2019 »Junge Winzer Oberrotweil 557 m ü.<br />
NN.« Grauburgunder trocken<br />
Varietal bouquet with pear, apple, walnut and herbs. On the<br />
palate juicy and spicy with texture and juice, clear contours,<br />
not a Pinot Gris of the old Baden style, but precise and with<br />
ripe as well as balanced acidity, enjoyable with food.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2018 Oberrotweil Eichberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Some dried meat, sour cherry and herbal tones. Massive on<br />
the palate, fine-grained, ripe tannins, slight sweetness, but<br />
also a very present alcohol that dries the mouth a bit in the<br />
finish. Finally, a beautiful, accentuated berry fruit.<br />
14,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
92 2018 Oberrotweil Henkenberg<br />
Ruländer Trockenbeerenauslese<br />
Clear amber colour. On the nose fir tree honey, dried fruits,<br />
apricot, peach, quince and candied orange. On the palate<br />
90 2019 »Junge Winzer Oberrotweil 557 m ü.<br />
NN.« Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Ripe yellow fruit on the palate, apricot and yellow apple, herbaceous<br />
notes. Juicy and spicy on the palate with a fine-nerved<br />
acidity, slender structure and coherent substance. You can feel<br />
the freshness of the high altitude, not too sweetly tuned, good<br />
on its own but also with fish. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
110 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Baden | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT BURG RAVENSBURG<br />
Am Mühlberg 3, 75056 Sulzfeld<br />
T: +49 (7259) 91120, weingut@burg-ravensburg.de<br />
www.weingut-burg-ravensburg.de<br />
Cellar Door: Wine shop in Tiefenbach<br />
Winemaker: Daniel Rupp<br />
Contact: Claus Burmeister<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 300,000 (50 % white, 50 % red)/38 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
Claus Burmeister demonstrates once<br />
again how many facets there are to his<br />
talent. Burmeister, who also vinifies the<br />
wines at sister-estate Heitlinger, has presented<br />
a really expressive, almost edgy range of wines<br />
for the sometimes more traditional style of<br />
Burg Ravensburg. We were particularly impressed<br />
by the really fresh, silky and elegant<br />
Grosses Gewächs of Lemberger (Blaufränkisch).<br />
While this wine is called “Dicker Franz”,<br />
i.e. fat Franz, there is absolutely nothing that is<br />
sluggish or staid about it. Likewise, the white<br />
wines also turned out well, the one from the<br />
Kapellenberg site was our favourite.<br />
92 2018 Eichelberg Kapellenberg Riesling GG<br />
Transparent pale yellow in colour, more open on the nose<br />
than its counterpart from the Husarenkappe. Interesting:<br />
The palate receives broad fruit, yet little pronounced fruitiness.<br />
The acidity is striking with further development of<br />
(herbal) spiciness. 12 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2018 Sulzfeld Husarenkappe Riesling GG<br />
91 Sulzfeld Löchle Weissburgunder GG 2018<br />
Complex on the nose: slightly buttery, citrus aromas and delicate<br />
hints of wood. Sparse on the palate, minerality and delicate<br />
fruit are in balance. Still very young, should open up further<br />
in the coming years. Decanting recommended.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2018 Sulzfeld Löchle Grauburgunder GG<br />
Gorgeous, transparent copper in appearance. Light green<br />
tones on the palate. Despite the sheltered, somewhat warmer<br />
location, there is no trace of plumpness, very taut and almost<br />
pithy. Delightful how delicately the fruit is integrated.<br />
With potential. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2015 Sulzfeld Dicker Franz<br />
Blaufränkisch GG<br />
Finely spicy aroma with hints of black cherry, incense and vanilla.<br />
On the palate, power combines with animating acidity.<br />
This wine also draws elegance from its silky tannins and the<br />
remarkably long, harmonious finish. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2016 Sulzfeld Löchle Spätburgunder GG<br />
This wine has opened up with time: On the palate, a melange<br />
of black cherry, blackberry and redcurrants with a<br />
hint of vanilla. Well-integrated wood, restrained tannins.<br />
Juicy yet mineral, distinctive and a pleasant acidity.<br />
13 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
111
PRIVAT-SEKTKELLEREI REINECKER<br />
Kleinmattweg 1, 79424 Auggen<br />
T: +49 (7631) 3441, info@sektkellerei-reinecker.de<br />
www.sektkellerei-reinecker.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–12 hrs and<br />
14–18 hrs, Saturdays 11–14 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Herbert and Steffen Reinecker<br />
Contact: The Reinecker family<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 40,000 (100 % white)/5 ha<br />
Herbert and Steffen Reinecker know<br />
what they are doing: ever since 1987<br />
all grapes of this Privat-Sektkellerei<br />
have been turned into sparkling wines. While<br />
the family is deeply-rooted in Auggen, in the<br />
subregion of Markgräflerland, their horizon<br />
reaches far beyond. Right from the start, Champagne<br />
has been their stylistic point of reference.<br />
More recently, the wines have gained even more<br />
luminosity and precision: the “3-Lagen”, i.e.<br />
three sites, set is fabulous, pitching the terroirs<br />
of the Badenweiler Römerberg, the Auggener<br />
Schäf and the Feuerbacher Steingässle against<br />
each other: an exciting and magnificent contest.<br />
93 2016 Feuerbach Steingässle<br />
Pinot Noir extra brut<br />
Burgundy berry with some patina, iodine-spiciness and apple<br />
peel. Very fine mousse, full-bodied, firm acidity, profound<br />
mineral foundation, a Pinot sparkling wine with mineral<br />
depth. Very well-timed in the harvest and very well-matched<br />
with reserve wines. 12 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
93 2016 »3 Lagen« Badenweiler Römerberg<br />
Pinot Noir extra brut<br />
Strongly yeasty, restrained fruit. Comparatively full-bodied<br />
on the palate, fine, persistent mousse, lively, but also ripe<br />
acidity. Exceptionally powerful tactile minerality, enigmatic,<br />
will mature very well. First notions of spice appear in the finish.<br />
12 Vol.-%. cork<br />
93 2016 »3 Lagen« Feuerbach Steingässle<br />
Pinot Noir extra brut<br />
A touch of colour, even a very slight reddish shimmer and<br />
more berry on the nose. Very Pinot. Suppleness, but also<br />
freshness. Rather restrained acidity, fine, creamy fading<br />
mousse, plus some substance, structurally tart, but then finally<br />
also some sweetness. 12 Vol.-%. cork<br />
92 2016 »3 Lagen« Auggen Schäf<br />
Pinot Noir extra brut<br />
Apple peel, redcurrants and delicate notes of yeast. Immediately<br />
chalky on the palate, fresh mousse, delicate sweetness,<br />
light impression, lively acidity, medium weight in extract and<br />
body, seems chiselled and polished; compact in the finish<br />
with juicy berry fruit. 12 Vol.-%. cork<br />
91 2015 »Cuvée Classic Réserve« brut<br />
90 2018 Crémant brut<br />
89 2016 »Blanc de Blancs« Chardonnay brut<br />
89 2016 Rosé brut<br />
91 2016 »Pinot Blanc de Noirs« extra brut<br />
A berry scent, apple, very fine mousse, cultivated acidity,<br />
lean yet aromatic. A fine aperitif, just dosed enough to give<br />
the fruit some underpinning. 12 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
112 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT RIEGER<br />
Baden | WINERIES<br />
Noblingstrasse 13b, 79426 Buggingen<br />
T: +49 (7634) 2013, info@weingutrieger.de<br />
www.weingutrieger.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–12 hrs and<br />
14–18 hrs, Sa 9–15 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Markus Brauchle and Philipp Rieger<br />
Contact: Philipp Rieger<br />
Hectares: 19 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
Last year we awarded the third star to the<br />
organic Rieger estate and the wines they<br />
presented this year confirmed that they<br />
really belong in this category. From 2010 onwards,<br />
19 hectares of vines have been farmed<br />
according to biodynamic principles. The winery<br />
is run by Philipp Rieger who took over<br />
from his parents in 2013. All the wines have a<br />
coherent style and show a natural balance and<br />
harmony. Our particular recommendation this<br />
time around is the fresh-faced and spicy “Chasselas<br />
Steinig”, that comes entirely without<br />
make-up. We are absolutely convinced that<br />
this upward trajectory will continue.<br />
92 2019 »Betberg« Gewürztraminer trocken<br />
Rose petals, mango and cumin on the nose. Juicy and soft on<br />
the palate, soon shows its substance, dense, good extract<br />
that unfolds smoothly, vivacious acidity and precise fruit, underpinned<br />
by fine mineral spice, multi-layered, nuanced.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2018 »SR Alte Rebe« Grauer Burgunder tr.<br />
Pinot Gris from vines planted in 1966, salmon-coloured. Pear<br />
and redcurrants in the berry nose, iodine and fine wood<br />
notes. Full-bodied. On the palate there is good density, lots of<br />
tension, slightly creamy background, cool aura, almost demanding<br />
minerality. Impressive. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2017 »SR Alte Rebe«<br />
Weisser Burgunder brut<br />
91 2018 »SR« Chardonnay trocken<br />
90 2019 Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
91 2017 »Padaperc« trocken ME/CS<br />
91 2017 »SR Alte Rebe« Spätburgunder tr.<br />
89 2018 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
im Holzfass gereift<br />
92 2018 »SR Alte Rebe« Weissburgunder tr.<br />
Planted in 1964, Pinot berry nose, redcurranst, fine wood<br />
spice and flowers. Creamy on the palate, lots of substance<br />
builds up, dense and with interwoven, ripe acidity, well-balanced,<br />
spice and Burgundian depth, with a structure designed<br />
for maturity. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2018 »Bettebura« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Multi-layered bouquet with fine woody notes, cherry, juniper<br />
berry, blood orange and pine needles. Powerful with a<br />
broad body, dense with developed strength, spicy, intense in<br />
all areas and well-balanced. Fireside wine.<br />
15 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2018 »Chasselas Steinig« trocken<br />
Strong lemon yellow in the glass, ripe green apples and lime<br />
zest on the nose, fine smoke, ripe mirabelle plums. Juicy and<br />
spicy on the palate, slender and firm body, creamy chalky<br />
minerality forms in the background, good tension. Finishes<br />
with nice spiciness. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
113
WEINGUT SALWEY<br />
Hauptstraße 2, 79235 Oberrotweil<br />
T: +49 (7662) 384, weingut@salwey.de<br />
www.salwey.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 14–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 11–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Konrad Salwey<br />
Contact: Philipp Hettich<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 150,000 (60 % white, 40 % red)/23 ha<br />
The hot vintage of 2018 does not seem to<br />
have fazed Konrad Salwey. The red single-site<br />
wines have the kind of fruit that<br />
combines intensity with nuance, their nature<br />
remains fresh and cool. With his Grosses<br />
Gewächs from the Oberrotweiler Henkenberg<br />
site, Salwey has indeed presented Baden’s best<br />
Spätburgunder: compelling, with great tension<br />
and fulminating minerality! It is absolutely<br />
impressive how obsessively this winemaker<br />
hones the quality of his wines, all of which are<br />
made to mature and evolve. The white GGs<br />
from the 2017 vintage still come across pristinely<br />
fresh. Lay them down!<br />
94 2017 Oberrotweil Henkenberg<br />
Grauburgunder GG<br />
Initially spice, then notes of anise, cumin and a whiff of delicate<br />
wood scents. On the palate smooth substance and finely-textured<br />
phenolics, with a punchy body and concise acidity,<br />
remaining smooth and aromatic in a homogeneous way<br />
for a very long time. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
96 2018 Oberrotweil Henkenberg<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Sour cherry, discreet wood notes, dark raspberry, some forest<br />
floor and conifer. On the palate there is great tension,<br />
firm tannins, exciting tactile minerality, lively acidity and a<br />
gripping ripe extract, which is supported by fresh fruit and<br />
juiciness. Great! 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
95 2018 Oberrotweil Eichberg<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Mineral spiced sweet cherry, mint, violet pastilles. Supple onset,<br />
then a slowly rolling extract where grippy tannins and<br />
powerful tactile mineral notes vie for supremacy. Ultra pure<br />
fruit on the palate. Length. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
95 2018 Oberrotweil Kirchberg<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Forest blueberry, blackberry, green tea, flint and warm gravel,<br />
floral nuances. Plump base, slight sweetness, strong alcohol,<br />
powerful but not a massive tannin texture, lots of juiciness<br />
in the background, pervaded by minerality. Still closed<br />
in the finish. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
94 2017 Oberrotweil Kirchberg<br />
Weissburgunder GG<br />
94 2017 Oberrotweil Eichberg<br />
Grauburgunder GG<br />
92 2017 Oberrotweil Henkenberg<br />
Weissburgunder GG<br />
92 2018 »RS« Oberrotweil<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
93 2017 »RS« Oberrotweil Spätburgunder tr.<br />
Comparatively light but a vibrant colour. Raspberry and<br />
sweet cherry on the nose, also a tad of sweet almond. Taut<br />
and juicy on the palate, fine-grained to firm and very fresh<br />
tannins. Grippingly straight on the palate, has bite and juiciness<br />
as well as a delicate fruit accompaniment.<br />
13 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
114 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Baden | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT KONRAD SCHLÖR<br />
Martin-Schlör-Strasse 22<br />
97877 Wertheim-Reicholzheim<br />
T: +49 (9342) 4976, info@weingut-schloer.de<br />
www.weingut-schloer.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Konrad Schlör<br />
Contact: Konrad and Monika Schlör<br />
Hectares: 7 ha<br />
Konrad and Monika Schlör started building<br />
their winery in the Tauber valley in<br />
1984 with just three hectares of vines. In<br />
the 1990s Konrad Schlör started to fine-tune the<br />
quality of his wines – every bottle, from simpler<br />
every day wines to the top growths had to meet<br />
his exacting standards. In 2010 the estate was<br />
admitted to the ranks of the VDP and by now<br />
they are cultivating almost seven hectares of<br />
vines in the cool climate of this subregion. There<br />
are few winemakers who know as much about<br />
Schwarzriesling, aka Pinot Meunier, as Konrad<br />
Schlör, but he also makes exquisite Spätburgunder.<br />
A really great debut to this wine guide!<br />
91 2019 Reicholzheim Oberer First<br />
Weissburgunder GG<br />
Aromas of yellow kiwis and mirabelle plums scatter across<br />
the nose, accompanied by a hint of nutmeg spice. On the palate,<br />
the Pinot Blanc is slightly tart, has a strong acid structure<br />
and a full body. Complex Pinot. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
medium intensity and a fine acidity. On the palate, the wine is<br />
velvety and slightly tart, nice Pinot style.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
89 2019 Reicholzheim First<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
93 2018 Reicholzheim Oberer First<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Slightly smoky, dark cherry fruit and a hint of lavender. On<br />
the palate, it is still a bit edgy. The strong acidity and fine tannins<br />
make the wine a good candidate for bottle ageing.<br />
Strong in character now, a pure pleasure in a few years.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2018 »R« Reicholzheim First<br />
Schwarzriesling trocken<br />
Raspberry jelly and fresh blackcurrant on the nose. On the<br />
palate, a delicately bitter tannic structure. The acidity is the<br />
same and lingers long in the aftertaste. All in all, a multi-layered<br />
wine, you don't often have this level of Pinot Meunier in<br />
your glass. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2018 »R« Reicholzheim First<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Red cherries and a slightly ethereal scent of thyme and an<br />
aroma of fresh conifer wood on the nose. The body shows a<br />
90 2019 Reicholzheim First Riesling trocken<br />
On the nose, the Riesling impresses with its pronounced<br />
lime note, which is complemented by a lemongrass scent.<br />
With good balance on the palate, the acidity makes a confident<br />
appearance and a chalky finish remains, making it a<br />
wine with a strong character. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
115
PRIVAT-WEINGUT<br />
SCHLUMBERGER-BERNHART<br />
Weinstrasse 19, 79295 Sulzburg-Laufen<br />
T: +49 (7634) 8992, info@schlumbergerwein.de<br />
www.schlumbergerwein.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–12 and<br />
14–18 hrs, Saturdays 10–14 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Ulrich Bernhart<br />
Contact: Ulrich Bernhart<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 50,000 (70 % white, 30 % red)/9 ha<br />
From his nine hectares of vineyards in the<br />
subregion of Markgräflerland, Ulrich<br />
Bernhart crafts profound and elegantly-balanced<br />
wines that really score with their<br />
subtle complexity. That is as true for the<br />
full-bodied white wines as it is for the well-structured<br />
red wines – all of which come across as<br />
eminently gastronomic. The Spätburgunder<br />
from the Laufener Wingerte is downright exemplary<br />
with its inherent coolness. But we also<br />
have to mention something quite outside viticulture:<br />
the family also runs the “Dormitorium”<br />
in Sulzburg, a small but utterly charming<br />
hotel which is absolutely worth staying in.<br />
91 2018 Laufen Wingerte Chardonnay GG<br />
Spicy, mineral notes rise from the glass. The smell is complemented<br />
by a light apple aroma. On the palate, an invigorating<br />
acidity, lots of power and body. Wine with good potential, but<br />
already a perfect accompaniment to food.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
89 2019 »vom Löss« Weissburgunder trocken<br />
91 2018 Laufen Wingerte Grauburgunder GG<br />
On the nose discreet vanilla and some pear scents. On the<br />
palate, fine acidity, an almost crunchy impression, straightforward<br />
with fine phenolics and nice minerality, pear notes<br />
again, plus some apple. A slender, sophisticated Pinot Gris.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2019 Muggardt Berg Riesling<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
On the nose fragrance of dried mango, plus some honeydew<br />
melon, ripe and rich. On the palate, well-integrated acidity,<br />
grippy, hints of exotic fruit. Harmoniously shaped throughout,<br />
finishes fresh and concentrated. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2017 Laufen Wingerte Spätburgunder GG<br />
Concise cherry fruit and black pepper on the nose, animating<br />
throughout. Fine tannins on the palate, elegant and precise<br />
with well-integrated acidity, cherry notes again, delicate<br />
minerality. With a rather cool style, this Pinot Noir is fun to<br />
drink. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2019 »fumé« Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
A bouquet that finely balances ripe fruit (nectarine, gooseberry)<br />
and piquant spice (elderflower). On the palate, too,<br />
the scales are in balance: texture and volume meet fine<br />
acidity and mineral character. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
116 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Baden | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT CLAUS SCHNEIDER<br />
Lörracher Strasse 4, 79576 Weil am Rhein<br />
T: +49 (7621) 72817, info@schneiderweingut.de<br />
www.schneiderweingut.de<br />
Cellar Door: Tuesdays through Fridays 9–12 hrs and<br />
14.30–18.30 hrs, Saturdays 9–14 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Johannes Schneider<br />
Contact: Christoph Schneider<br />
Hectares: 12 ha<br />
Rather interesting things are happening in<br />
this three-nation corner where Germany,<br />
France and Switzerland meet. Just across<br />
from Basel, Johannes and Christoph Schneider<br />
know how to express a classical Pinot style – as<br />
they demonstrate in their elegant “Kapf”. Their<br />
quiet, filigree Gutedels (Chasselas) have also<br />
demonstrated the brothers’ talents for years. At the<br />
same time they have dared to try their hands at less<br />
conventional styles – thank heavens! The skin-fermented<br />
“El Fayoum” illustrates how exquisite<br />
wines can be that have hardly had any additions of<br />
sulphur dioxide. We look forward to more of their<br />
ideas and excitedly await further developments.<br />
91 2018 Haltingen Stiege Gutedel trocken<br />
Lively freshness and aromas of pears, green apples and almonds<br />
combine very harmoniously. The ageing in steel tanks<br />
makes the wine a versatile, unobtrusive food wine. Restrained<br />
acidity, light phenolic finish. 11 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2018 »Le Blanc vom Kalkstein«<br />
trocken WB/CH<br />
92 2019 »El Fayoum« Gutedel trocken<br />
The intense colour already indicates a long maceration time.<br />
The nose confirms the imminent palate assumption: a wild<br />
mix of aromas, malty and yeasty notes, some pepper and obvious<br />
spontaneous notes. At the same time, the wine is extremely<br />
clean. A great drinking pleasure.<br />
9,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2019 »gres rose« trocken<br />
A highly interesting rosé that is far removed from the conventional<br />
Pinot Noir style. A natural wine with little use of<br />
sulphur, yet not animalistic, but pronounced and very clean<br />
in its unusual aromatics. Exciting! 11,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2017 Weil Schlipf Kapf Spätburgunder tr.<br />
Pure elegance on the palate: filigree berry fruit, silky tannins.<br />
Nevertheless, no tartness, the structure is precisely-defined.<br />
Clearly present minerality, which comes from limestone.<br />
Very fine extract, an excellent length with a perfectly shaped<br />
finish. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2017 Weil Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Blueberries and a little cranberry on the palate. Polished<br />
tannins, mild acidity. Well-structured body, reasonable<br />
length, good storage potential. Successful and very discreet<br />
use of wood. A testament to the class of German Pinot<br />
Noirs. 12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
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117
WEINGUT SCHNEIDER-PFEFFERLE<br />
Kolpingstrasse 7, 79423 Heitersheim<br />
T: +49 (7634) 2836, info@weingut-schneider-pfefferle.de<br />
www.weingut-schneider -pfefferle.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Katharina Pfefferle<br />
Contact: Katharina Pfefferle<br />
Hectares: 8 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
Katharina Pfefferle runs Weingut Schneider-Pfefferle<br />
together with her husband<br />
Mathias. While she is responsible<br />
for winemaking, he is looking after the eight<br />
hectares of vines which are farmed organically.<br />
The vineyards are in the Heitersheim sites of<br />
Maltesergarten and Sonnhohle. We particularly<br />
liked the mineral “Steiwii”, fermented in<br />
a concrete egg, and the savoury, smooth Wissburgunder<br />
“Pur”. The estate also runs a<br />
“Straussi”, a seasonal, rustic pop-up where<br />
you can taste these unpretentious wines. A<br />
good address to know in the Markgräflerland!<br />
92 2018 »Pur« Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Lots of yeast on the nose, apple peel and cider with caraway<br />
notes and dried apricot. Gripping. On the palate there is good<br />
tension and density, but this is also supple with juice and<br />
some richness, phenolic layering, spicy and peppery. Still<br />
youthful but with potential. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
88 2019 »Rosa Markgräfler« Rosé vom<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
91 2016 »Selektion« Grauer Burgunder tr.<br />
Honeydew melon on the intense aroma, candied walnuts and<br />
ripe pear, pine needles. Relaxed, spicy and juicy on the palate,<br />
where an immanent and calm tension develops, good extract<br />
that unfolds smoothly. Honest. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 »Fumé« Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
No loud and international Sauvignon nose, ripe gooseberry,<br />
apricot, also redcurrants and spicy aromas. Dry. On the palate<br />
there is crisp acidity, not overloaded with fruit, tightly interwoven<br />
structure, fine spice, slightly astringent tannins.<br />
Local identity. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2017 »Red!Red!Red!« trocken ME/PI/CS/CI<br />
Blend of Merlot, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon, berry<br />
and smoky nose followed by blackcurrant, redcurrants, black<br />
cherry and cherry chocolate with hints of marzipan. Strong,<br />
dry and honest on the palate, powerful structure with substance,<br />
tart freshness. 14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
91 2017 »Steiwii« Gutedel trocken<br />
Mirabelle plums, apple in the attractive nose with a<br />
citric accompaniment scent, wet stone, iodine. Lean and<br />
tightly-built on the palate, tightly woven, with good density<br />
and tension, concise mineral underpinning and with that<br />
certain something that does not need to be explained.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
118 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Baden | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT LOTHAR SCHWÖRER<br />
Waldstrasse 6, 77971 Kippenheim<br />
T: +49 (7825) 7411, mail@weingut-lothar-schwoerer.de<br />
www.weingut-lothar-schwoerer.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 16–19 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 9–15 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Lothar Schwörer<br />
Contact: Lothar Schwörer<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 70,000 (50 % white, 50 % red)/10 ha<br />
Lothar Schwörer is one of the winemakers<br />
who focus on the essentials, namely<br />
the work in vineyard and cellar. You<br />
will not find any marketing gimmicks or elaborate<br />
designs here. He pursues a calm and serene<br />
wine style which aims to depict the limestone<br />
soils of Schmieheim. Every single wine is<br />
clearly structured and comes with harmonious<br />
balance. The chalky, mineral savouriness<br />
sits just as well with his white wines, like the<br />
creamy Chardonnay “Kalksteinfels”, as with<br />
the red wines, of which the Spätburgunder<br />
“Vulcano” with its power and spice impressed<br />
us especially.<br />
91 2018 »Kalksteinfels« Chardonnay trocken<br />
On the nose aromas of citrus fruit, woody notes and chalky<br />
mineral spice, sunflowers, chamomile. Opens with juice and<br />
spice on the palate, powerful construction, dense, again<br />
chalky mineral spice and creaminess, present and wellintegrated<br />
acidity, good potential for further maturity.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
dark chocolate. On the palate there is traction and good<br />
freshness, powerfully-built without becoming broad, dense<br />
and also complex. Maturity potential. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 Schmieheim Kirchberg<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
91 2016 »Vulcano« Mahlberg Schlossberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Spicy nose with balsamic notes, cherry and herbs, also wood<br />
spice, bay leaf and juniper berry. With fine maturity on the<br />
palate, multi-layered, spicy in a powerful structure, well balanced<br />
with a ripe, distinct acidity, ripe tannins, mineral. Pairs<br />
well game. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2017 »Alte Reben« Schmieheim Kirchberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Cherry on the nose, blackcurrant, some sage and chamomile<br />
and notes of balsamic spice. Shows Baden virtues with a<br />
powerful composition and lots of spice, sweet extract, powerful<br />
tannins and a ripe acidity. Well-balanced.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2017 »Salome« trocken ME/CI<br />
Blend of Merlot and Cabernet Mitos, black cherry and cassis<br />
on the nose, additional notes of ink, roasted coffee beans and<br />
90 2019 Schmieheim Kirchberg<br />
Grauburgunder trocken<br />
Nutty aromas on the nose, hazelnut, pear and also light wood<br />
spice nuances. Powerful and compact on the palate, medium<br />
volume, good extract, good varietal typicity with pear, some<br />
quince and nice spiciness, ripe acidic structure, texture and<br />
juiciness, solid at the table. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
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119
SHELTER WINERY<br />
Salzmatten 1, 79341 Kenzingen<br />
T: +49 (7644) 927663, espe@shelterwinery.de<br />
www.shelterwinery.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Hans-Bert Espe and Silke Wolf<br />
Contact: Hans-Bert Espe and Silke Wolf<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 20,000 (5 % white, 95 % red)/ 5 ha<br />
The fact that Shelter Winery, run by Silke<br />
Wolf and Hans-Bert Espe, produces exquisite<br />
Pinot Noirs is by now known<br />
well beyond Baden’s confines. With their Pinots<br />
from the 2018 vintage, however, they<br />
have accomplished a real feat. The fabulous<br />
Pinot Noir “N114” demonstrates tension and<br />
finest tannins of great quality. It counts<br />
amongst the best Spätburgunders in Baden!<br />
And there is absolutely nothing to find fault<br />
with, in the rest of their range, even their entry-level<br />
Spätburgunder shows class and style.<br />
The “Sparkling” from the 2013 vintage comes<br />
with superb creaminess. Huge compliment!<br />
92 2018 Chardonnay trocken<br />
The nose is characterised by slightly buttery aromas, apricot<br />
and pomelo. But it also has iodine tones. On the palate, one<br />
senses some pronounced fruitiness and a fresh acidity. There<br />
also remains a stony minerality. An exciting and at the same<br />
time light-footed Chardonnay. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 »Rosé de Noir« trocken<br />
92 2013 »Sparkling« brut<br />
Ripe smoky Pinot nose with raspberry, smoke and yeast. On<br />
the palate there is very fine mousse and ripe acidity softly<br />
starting, aristocratic and with fine spice, shows mildness and<br />
less tension with its ripe age, but wise relaxation. Superb<br />
creaminess. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
96 2018 »N114« Pinot Noir trocken<br />
Fruity notes and cool minerality in the precise aroma, blueberry<br />
and cherry, also herbs and some fine ink. Gripping and<br />
with good tension on the palate, good extract and excellent<br />
balance of the elements, tannins of high quality, powerful<br />
and very elegant. Exquisite. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€€<br />
93 2018 Pinot Noir trocken<br />
Cherry on the nose with some ginger, rose petals and a hint<br />
of fine smoke. It does not hide the warm year 2018 on the palate,<br />
ripe fruit, juice and spice. A good extract that unfolds in a<br />
powerful and also charming way, lots of spice and a felicitous<br />
tannin framework. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
90 2018 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Cherry and blueberry show in the fine and slightly smoky<br />
nose, fresh bay leaf and a pinch of allspice. Juicy and soft<br />
on the palate, soon after additional spice, the ripe acidity<br />
takes over, full-bodied and with ripe tannins.<br />
13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
120 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT TRAUTWEIN<br />
Baden | WINERIES<br />
Riegeler Strasse 2, 79353 Bahlingen<br />
T: +49 (7663) 2650, info@trautweingut.com<br />
www.trautweingut.com<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 16–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–14 hrs and by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Anne-Christin Trautwein<br />
Contact: The Trautwein family<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 60,000 (60 % white, 40 % red)/12 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
The family-run Weingut Trautwein in<br />
Bahlingen started farming their vineyards<br />
organically in 1980. In 2019<br />
Anne-Christin Trautwein, who is also responsible<br />
for winemaking, took over the estate<br />
which she now runs with her husband Christoph<br />
Trautwein. The focus is on Pinot-varieties<br />
which find ideal conditions here in the Kaiserstuhl.<br />
The wines are fermented spontaneously<br />
and have extended time on their lees.<br />
They are living, precise, natural and digestible<br />
wines that leave you with a sense of contentment<br />
and harmony.<br />
92 2018 »Gemischter Satz« Bahlingen<br />
Urkäsenthal trocken<br />
Eight grape varieties make up the Gemischter Satz from the<br />
Bahlinger Urkäsenthal, yellow-fruits on the nose, with apricot<br />
and pear. The powerful construction on the palate is<br />
filled with lots of fruit and spice, confident acidity, phenolic<br />
grip and minerality. Uniquely special. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
good balance and natural character, dry and unaffected, fine<br />
acidity vein, smooth tannins of high quality, mineral.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
89 2016 Bahlingen Käsenthal<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
91 2018 Bahlingen Fohberg<br />
Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
In the fragrance - honeydew melon, pear, walnut, also hints<br />
of ripe yellow fruit. Combination of power and juicy texture.<br />
On the palate there is intense fruit and spice, ripe acidity and<br />
a mineral foundation, dry and also with traction.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2018 Bahlingen Fohberg Chardonnay tr.<br />
Spicy and also a smoky nose with pear and pear peel, quince<br />
and also peppery hints. Sets out softly and juicy on the palate,<br />
the sweet extract supports this round impression, but<br />
also density, spiciness and minerality, which provide complexity.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2015 »Grand« Bahlingen Käsenthal<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Smells of cassis and wild berries, also dark spicy notes, juniper<br />
berry and wood spice. Strongly-composed Pinot Noir with<br />
89 2019 Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Stone fruit in the juicy and spicy nose, apricot and tangerine<br />
peel. On the palate there is substance, good freshness<br />
and a lively acidity accompanied by texture. Juicy and fine<br />
spice, again some apricot, fine grip, natural character.<br />
13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
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121
DEMETER WEINGUT<br />
KLAUS VORGRIMMLER<br />
St. Erentrusisstrasse 63, 79112 Freiburg im Breisgau<br />
T: +49 (7664) 2489, weingut@vorgrimmler.de<br />
www.vorgrimmler.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Klaus Vorgrimmler<br />
Contact: Maj Britt Vorgrimmler<br />
Hectares: 3 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
Klaus and Maj Britt Vorgrimmler run their<br />
Demeter-certified winery just outside the<br />
town of Freiburg. Their three hectares of<br />
vines lie at the southern tip of the Tuniberg subregion<br />
and are farmed according to biodynamic<br />
principles. The fertile, warming loess soils lend<br />
minerality, power and finesse to the wines. “For<br />
more than 30 years now we have concerned ourselves<br />
with the interplay of elements in the vineyard,<br />
well beyond the beaten path, and with the<br />
interaction between humans, nature and spirit,”<br />
the couple reports. Their experience clearly shines<br />
through, above all in the fabulous and expressive<br />
Spätburgunders. A really special range of wines!<br />
91 2019 Chardonnay Landwein trocken<br />
On the nose, the scent of yuzu and white pepper, also apple<br />
and notes of yellow fruit. A style with character and fine<br />
spice, but not overloaded. The acidity on the palate is fine<br />
and well-integrated. Very pure and honest in its character.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2017 »Dachsberg« Spätburgunder<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
Slightly animalistc with a wild note, dark fruit, wild berries,<br />
leather and smoky notes; powerfully built on the palate, with<br />
good substance and present acidity, which also sets the stylistic<br />
line. The tannins are grippy, impetuous, somewhat wild<br />
but just right. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2017 Spätburgunder Landwein trocken<br />
93 2016 »Petite Chapelle« Spätburgunder<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
Pure blackcurrants in the multi-layered aroma, plus a sweet<br />
scent of black cherry and a somewhat ethereal scent of eucalyptus.<br />
On the palate, the barrique ageing is noticeable.<br />
Soft, not obtrusive, well-balanced and with depth.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
92 2017 »SR« Spätburgunder Landwein tr.<br />
Peppery notes and redcurrants jelly: The nose is very fresh<br />
and yet with a certain complexity. Compact and firmly-built<br />
on the palate, dry and puristic, has some edge, slight bitterness,<br />
shows character - an interesting Pinot.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2019 Grauburgunder Landwein trocken<br />
A very slender Pinot Gris, avoids any opulence, shows<br />
freshness and presence. On the nose, white peach and a<br />
hint of chamomile. On the palate, very intricate with hints<br />
of spice and very finely-balanced. Quiet and natural, but simultaneoulsy<br />
exciting. 12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
122 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Baden | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT PETER WAGNER<br />
Hauptstrasse 32, 79235 Vogtsburg im Kaiserstuhl<br />
T: +49 (176) 64013967, info@wagner-weingut.de<br />
www.wagner-weingut.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Peter Wagner<br />
Contact: Peter Wagner<br />
Hectares: 4 ha<br />
The wines Peter Wagner makes in this<br />
family estate in Oberrotweil from just<br />
four hectares of vines are decidedly slender<br />
and elegant. They do not have an ounce of<br />
superfluous fat but a clear expression of terroir,<br />
as well as elegance and freshness. Wagner farms<br />
biodynamically and focuses on Spätburgunder<br />
and Chardonnay, plus Grauburgunder and a<br />
little Müller-Thurgau which in his hands turns<br />
out wonderfully fresh. Wagner’s Grauburgunder<br />
from the Henkenberg site offers magnificent<br />
tension and depth, just as the finely-woven<br />
Spätburgunder from the same site. An estate<br />
that should definitely be on your radar.<br />
92 2018 Oberrotweil Henkenberg<br />
Grauburgunder trocken<br />
Clear, medium yellow. On the nose brioche, quince, smoke,<br />
some jasmine, apple peel. On the palate nice texture, flowing<br />
acidity, grippy fine phenolics, apple, quince, almond nuances<br />
underlaid with minerality, lots of tension, nice length. Great<br />
with food, potential. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2017 Achkarren Schlossberg<br />
Grauburgunder trocken<br />
Clear, medium yellow. On the nose ripe light fruits, some<br />
smoke, almond, hot stone, herbal spice. On the palate a fine<br />
texture, grip, fine phenolics, lemon balm, nuts, ripe citrus<br />
fruit. An elegant Schlossberg with depth, calm and long.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2018 Oberrotweil Henkenberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Rich cherry red, clear. On the nose fine red fruits, smoke,<br />
cherry, spice, crushed rock, elderberry. Depth. On the palate<br />
much spice and tension, fine tannins, differentiated, red<br />
fruits, balancing acidity, good structure, long, potential.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2018 »Alte Reben« Oberrotweil<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Clear, rich red. On the nose smoke, wood barrel clearly noticeable,<br />
sloe, cherry, blackberry, some tobacco and dark<br />
chocolate. On the palate, grippy tannins, balanced acidity,<br />
power, dark fruit, cherry, smoke, tension, still needs time.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2018 Oberrotweil Chardonnay trocken<br />
90 2018 Oberrotweil Grauburgunder trocken<br />
89 2018 Grauburgunder trocken<br />
91 2018 Oberrotweil Spätburgunder trocken<br />
90 2018 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
88 2019 Müller-Thurgau trocken<br />
Bright, clear yellow. In the fresh nose scent of lime zest<br />
with a blade of mace, in addition light floral hints. Invigorating<br />
acidity on the palate, citrus, apricot kernel, nutmeg.<br />
Overall light, completely dry Müller-Thurgau, absolutely<br />
harmonious. 11,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
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123
WEINGUT FRITZ WASSMER<br />
Lazariterstrasse 2, 79189 Bad Krozingen-Schlatt<br />
T: +49 (7633) 3965, mail@weingutfritzwassmer.de<br />
www.weingutfritzwassmer.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Fritz Wassmer<br />
Contact: Fritz Wassmer<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 186,000 (35 % white, 65 % red)/38 ha<br />
It is well-known that brothers Fritz and<br />
Martin Wassmer are engaged in a constant<br />
but healthy duel – performed in a spirit of<br />
friendship: As soon as one brother was able to<br />
get his hands on a prestigious site, it is only a<br />
question of time before the other makes his<br />
own move to present a new coup. In the very<br />
same fashion, the quality of the wines has thus<br />
also been on a steadily upward trajectory in<br />
both estates, which started out as strawberry<br />
and asparagus farms. And who is the real winner<br />
in this eternal contest in the Pinot stronghold<br />
of Schlatt? That remains to be seen! A<br />
great performance from the Wassmer family!<br />
93 2018 Herbolzheim Kaiserberg<br />
Chardonnay trocken<br />
Very fine aroma of yellow apple, star fruit, lemon and pineapple.<br />
On the palate, these aromas as well as apricot and bourbon<br />
vanilla are balanced by very lively acidity. A wine with a<br />
significant finish and an ideally-integrated ageing component.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
93 2018 Kenzingen Roter Berg<br />
Chardonnay trocken<br />
Medium golden yellow. Bourbon vanilla, lemon zest, ripe apple<br />
and pear on the nose as well as on the palate. Very good<br />
texture supported by fine acidity. A wine with good complexity<br />
and concentration on the nose with a long finish.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2018 Bombach Sommerhalde<br />
Grauburgunder trocken<br />
Complex aroma on the nose - vanilla, melon, ripe white peach<br />
and also lemon peel. On the palate, these precise aromas are<br />
joined by a very good texture. All supported by lively acidity<br />
and in good balance of the elements. Very long finish.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
94 2018 Herbolzheim Kaiserberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
The complex aroma of ripe cherry, clove, smoked bacon and<br />
some pepper is poised by very lively acidity. Concentrated<br />
and complex with good structure. The ripe tannins and light<br />
minerality lead to a long finish. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
90 2018 Staufen Schlossberg<br />
Chardonnay trocken<br />
90 2018 Staufen Schlossberg<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
92 2018 »CCL« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
92 2018 »XXL« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
91 2018 Bombach Sommerhalde<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
90 2018 Merlot trocken<br />
90 2018 »Alte Reben« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
90 2018 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Medium ruby in the glass. A classic varietal aroma profile<br />
of raspberry, smoke, strawberry and hibiscus. These aromas<br />
are also found on the palate, a medium body, recognisable<br />
structure, ripe tannins, balancing acidity and a<br />
good finish. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
124 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Baden | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT MARTIN WASSMER<br />
Am Sportplatz 3, 79189 Bad Krozingen-Schlatt<br />
T: +49 (7633) 15292, info@weingut-wassmer.com<br />
www.weingut-wassmer.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Saturdays 9–18 hrs,<br />
April to June also Sundays 10–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Martin Wassmer, Stefan Beck<br />
Contact: Martin Wassmer<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 190,000 (40 % white, 60 % red)/38 ha<br />
A<br />
Burgundian blueprint with Markgräfler<br />
values,” noted one of our tasters<br />
about the incredibly concentrated<br />
Chardonnay “GC” with its super-chalky minerality<br />
from the Dottinger Castellberg – this is<br />
an observation that can be extended to Martin<br />
Wassmer’s entire exquisite range. This winemaker<br />
does not even try to imitate that French<br />
idol over the border, instead he creates an autonomous<br />
interpretation of the local conditions<br />
and his various terroirs and soils of limestone<br />
and volcanic formations. He has Burgundy in<br />
his sights, but his feet are firmly on Markgräfler<br />
ground: a wonderful way of flourishing!<br />
93 2018 »GC« Dottingen Castellberg<br />
Chardonnay trocken<br />
Spicy wood notes, discreet yellow fruit and sesame. On the palate<br />
there is a powerful dose of fine phenolics, with stringent accompanying<br />
acidity and an interplay of these elements despite the<br />
high density. Chalky mineral finish. A Burgundian blueprint with<br />
Markgräfler content. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
93 2018 »GC« Achkarren Schlossberg<br />
Grauburgunder trocken<br />
Golden in colour. Lush scents, Turkish delight, ripe yellow fruit<br />
and chestnut puree. On the palate, generous volume, opulent<br />
and poised, plump and smooth, but also with an almost raisin-like,<br />
condensed, yet fine acidity. A bold wine!<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2018 »GC« Dottingen Castellberg<br />
Pinot Noir trocken<br />
Some new wood, leather, blueberry, fresh fruit, mineral cherry.<br />
On the palate there is a soft base and a firm, clearly chalky<br />
mineral core. Well-integrated, but also long-lasting acidity. A<br />
lot of juice and elegance, spicy, mineral Pinot.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
93 2018 Dottingen Castellberg Syrah trocken<br />
Starts with aromas of dark chocolate, then herbal notes followed<br />
by Amarena cherry and sultana. On the palate there<br />
are massive, ripe, slightly drying tannins, a powerful palate,<br />
but also great extraction fullness, ripe acidity. Smooth texture,<br />
impressive. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork,<br />
92 2018 »GC« Dottingen Castellberg<br />
Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
92 2017 Staufen Schlossberg<br />
Weissburgunder Spätlese trocken<br />
92 2018 »GC« Schlatt Maltesergarten<br />
Pinot Noir trocken<br />
91 2016 »Chapelle« Ehrenstetten Ölberg<br />
trocken CF/ME/CS<br />
91 2018 »GC« Glottertal Roter Bur<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
91 2018 »GC« Ehrenstetten Ölberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
91 2017 »GC« Schlatt Maltesergarten<br />
Pinot Noir trocken<br />
93 2018 »GC« Dottinger Castellberg<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Savoury wood, white flowers scent. On the palate a wonderful<br />
integration of fullness and texture, ripeness, firm<br />
acidity and tactile minerality give body, tension and freshness.<br />
The finish is aromatic and smooth in a non-kitschy<br />
way. 13,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
125
WEINGUT WÖHRLE<br />
Weinbergstrasse 3, 77933 Lahr<br />
T: +49 (7821) 25332, info@woehrle-wein.de<br />
www.woehrle-wein.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 17–19 hrs,<br />
Saturadays 10–14 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Markus Wöhrle<br />
Contact: Tanja and Markus Wöhrle<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 100,000 (75 % white, 25 % red)/15 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
Loud notes are not something you encounter<br />
at Weingut Wöhrle in Lahr. Just as well<br />
that Markus and Tanja Wöhrle have no<br />
need of them. For years now, they have presented<br />
wines that play in the top ranks, also well beyond<br />
Baden, and which speak for themselves. Markus<br />
Wöhrle manages masterfully to meet the very varying<br />
conditions of each vintage. While he translated<br />
the 2018 heat into balanced substance, the<br />
2019 wines again show more edge, poise and<br />
drive. The Spätburgunders from 2018, of course,<br />
are in a class of their own. Even if the white Grosse<br />
Gewächse were not presented we can safely say<br />
that this is a maginficent range of wines!<br />
91 2019 Lahr Kronenbühl Weissburgunder<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
Fine fragrance of redcurrants leaf, violets, yellow peach and<br />
lime zest. On the palate, the very lively acidity carries the yellow<br />
fruit as well as a slight almond note. A smoky note also<br />
develops into a good finish on the medium-weight body .<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
93 2018 Lahr Kronenbühl Spätburgunder<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
Spicy new wood, citrus notes, sweet cherry, floral notes. On<br />
the palate a dense combination of suppleness, grippy tannins<br />
and fine acidity. Lots of juice, wonderful proportions,<br />
rich fruit, a real mouthful of Pinot. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
89 2019 Lahr Auxerrois trocken<br />
91 2019 Lahr Kronenbühl Grauburgunder<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
Medium intensity on the nose with a scent of clove, peach,<br />
lemon zest and a slight almond note. On the palate, the lively<br />
acidity balances these aromatics. This is followed by a pleasant<br />
aroma of redcurrants leaf and smoky minerality.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
94 2018 Lahr Kirchgasse Spätburgunder GG<br />
Almond and bay leaf on the nose, subtle wood spice.<br />
Full-bodied palate, densely filled with sandy, impeccably ripe<br />
tannins, integrated acidity, mineral base, all components<br />
naturally proportioned - currently slightly closed but with excellent<br />
potential. Long finish! 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2019 Lahr Gelber Muskateller trocken<br />
Some yeast and an intense spiciness of freshly grated nutmeg.<br />
Also slightly peppery. On the palate there is juicy, fine<br />
acidity which counterbalances a lean but still intense impression.<br />
A long lasting, grapey finish.<br />
12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
126 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT ZÄHRINGER<br />
Baden | WINERIES<br />
Johanniterstrasse 61, 79423 Heitersheim<br />
T: +49 (7634) 504890, info@weingut-zaehringer.de<br />
www.weingut-zaehringer.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Wednesdays 9–12 hrs<br />
and 14–17 hrs, Thursdays and Fridays 9–12 hrs and<br />
14–18 hrs, Saturdays 10–13 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Burkhard Schopferer<br />
Contact: Fabian Zähringer<br />
Hectares: 50 ha<br />
In the 1980s, Wolfgang Zähringer was<br />
amongst Baden’s pioneers of organic viticulture.<br />
His son Fabian Zähringer has<br />
farmed the vineyards biodynamically since<br />
2010, certified by Demeter. At Weingut<br />
Zähringer even the entry-level wines are of<br />
high caliber. The entire range is alive and coherent,<br />
and the further up the list you go, the<br />
more substance, balance and mineral notes<br />
there are. The exquisite Weissburgunder “Orange”<br />
combines tension and smoothness, the<br />
Grauburgunder “Vierlig” does the same with<br />
body and precision. The red wines have equal<br />
character. An exciting range!<br />
93 2018 »Orange« Weissburgunder Landwein tr.<br />
Orange peel, quince jelly, caraway and malt in the expressive<br />
nose. On the palate there are tart, present phenolics, which<br />
provide freshness, citric notes, beautiful, powerful fruit.<br />
Strong and compact construction with traction and tension,<br />
never losing its suppleness. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2019 »Vierlig« Grauburgunder trocken<br />
Fine spicy varietal fruit with pear and apple, toasted hazelnut,<br />
sesame hints and fine smoke. Opens with juicy and tart<br />
fruit on the palate, dry and with fine phenolics, combines<br />
fullness and extract in a charming and animating way. Refined<br />
and precise, natural. 13,5 Vol.-%. DIAM, €€<br />
92 2018 Heitersheim Sonnhohle<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Strongly-built Pinot Blanc that smells of meadow herbs and<br />
mirabelle plums, some mint, orange zest and vanilla. With a<br />
firm structure and good density, well supported by wood, integrated<br />
acidity with a salty undertone. Development of suppleness<br />
and texture. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2018 »SZ« Chardonnay trocken<br />
Some yellow fruit in the finely-interlaced nose, apple and<br />
apricot, a delicate whiff of smoke, fresh bay leaf. Supple onset<br />
with broadness of spice, ripe fruit and mineral tones in a<br />
powerful body. Young and talented. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2018 Dottingen Castellberg Viognier tr.<br />
90 2016 Crémant extra brut<br />
89 2019 Gutedel trocken<br />
89 2019 Cabernet Blanc trocken<br />
89 2019 Weissburgunder trocken<br />
90 2017 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
89 2018 Cabernet Franc trocken<br />
90 2018 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Morello cherry and red cherry, wild berries and some wood<br />
spice. Well-structured. On the palate there is ripe and<br />
floury tannins, fine acidity leads the way, light spices, ripe<br />
cherry, also blackberry and tobacco, generous and lively,<br />
finishes spicy. 14 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
127
WEINGUT HANSPETER ZIEREISEN<br />
Markgrafenstrasse 17, 79588 Efringen-Kirchen<br />
T: +49 (7628) 2848, kontakt@ziereisen.de<br />
www.ziereisen.de<br />
Cellar Door: Thursdays through Fridays 8–12.30 and<br />
14–18.30 hrs, Saturdays 8–12.30 and 14–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Hanspeter Ziereisen<br />
Contact: Edeltraud Ziereisen<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 100,000 (50 % white, 50 % red)/17 ha<br />
Hanspeter Ziereisen is one of the most<br />
original characters of German viticulture<br />
– this is no longer a secret. But<br />
there is far more than originality: Ziereisen’s<br />
style in vineyard and cellar shows traces of<br />
pure genius. He can actually afford to pack a<br />
Grauburgunder with extract to bursting point<br />
– even with colour! – without even a hint of<br />
plumpness. He manages to make his Gutedel<br />
resemble a spicy, concentrated Meursault.<br />
And apart from all these virtuosic feats he still<br />
has a fine talent for very affordable and wonderfully<br />
down-to-earth entry-level wines.<br />
95 2018 »Jaspis« Grauer Burgunder<br />
unfiltriert trocken<br />
Salmon pink with orange reflections. Scents of wood notes,<br />
green walnut, apple peel tea, limestone and also citrus notes<br />
followed by Pinot berries. Quite a mouthful, but made from<br />
the finest elements, immensely young, deep and complex,<br />
concentrated with dense acidity. Enormous potential!<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
94 2018 »Jaspis 10hoch4« Gutedel<br />
unfiltriert trocken<br />
Scent of limestone- savouriness, apple and some wood nuances.<br />
Highly condensed on the palate, very mineral and phenolic, firm<br />
acidity, immensely young with depth and substance for 20 years<br />
of maturity. Enormous extract and that with the utmost finesse.<br />
In the finish almost only tactile minerality. 12 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
95 2016 »Jaspis« Spätburgunder<br />
unfiltriert trocken<br />
A still youthful cherry fruit aroma followed by some wood, coconut,<br />
cinnamon notes, but also peppery, tree resin, candied orange<br />
peel, herbal spice and a dash of ink. On the palate there is a lively<br />
acidic nerve, wide-ranging, fine-grained tannins in medium-high<br />
quantity. A dense, long, chalky finish. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
93 2017 »Gestad« Syrah unfiltriert trocken<br />
Plum core, toasty, tarry notes, blackberry, elderberry pulp,<br />
very fresh and some wood. Dense on the palate, taut, astringent<br />
tannins and a vital acidity accompanied by peppery<br />
notes, disciplined alcohol, taut and exciting. Future!<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2017 »Musbrugger« Grauburgunder<br />
unfiltriert trocken<br />
91 2018 »Steingrügle« Gutedel unfiltriert tr.<br />
90 2018 »Lügle« Weissburgunder unfiltriert tr.<br />
93 2017 »Rhini« Spätburgunder unfiltriert tr.<br />
92 2017 »Schulen« Spätburgunder<br />
unfiltriert trocken<br />
92 2017 »Talrain« Spätburgunder unfiltriert tr.<br />
89 2017 »Tschuppen« Spätburgunder<br />
unfiltriert trocken<br />
90 2018 »Heugumber« Gutedel trocken<br />
Relatively strong in colour. Ripe stone fruit, raisin, apricot<br />
and malt. On the palate quite rich, as one can expect from<br />
the year, a layer of phenolics, lively acidity, dry and substantial<br />
with edginess and generosity. Extremely high level<br />
for an entry-level wine. 11 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
128 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT ZIMMERMANN<br />
Baden | WINERIES<br />
Bürgelnblick 1, 79418 Schliengen<br />
T: +49 (7635) 665, info@zimmermann-wein.de<br />
www.zimmermann-wein.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–14 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Karl-Ernst Zimmermann<br />
Contact: Karl-Ernst Zimmermann<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 55,000 (75 % white, 25 % red)/11 ha<br />
You can always rely on Karl-Ernst Zimmermann’s<br />
accessible wine style. Clear<br />
fruit and freshness are central to his<br />
white wines, like the eminently gluggable Gutedel,<br />
aka Chasselas, the local hero of the<br />
Markgräflerland, which often also comes with<br />
a dollop of sweetness. Zimmerman also<br />
knows how to handle wines matured in small<br />
barrels: his Grauburgunder “Reserve Rhine<br />
Hill” is spicy and comes with a firm structure.<br />
The red wines show both substance and varietal<br />
character, like the generous Merlot “Angel<br />
Hill”. You can also enjoy these wines in the<br />
wine inn that forms part of the estate.<br />
89 2017 »Reserve Rhine Hill«<br />
Grauburgunder trocken<br />
Medium gold in colour, caramel on the nose, honeydew melon,<br />
candied walnuts and ripe pear. Juicy and soft on the palate,<br />
the ripe acidity supports the balanced character, fine<br />
spice and texture, not too sweet, good volume, medium extract.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
fruit, quite a powerful Merlot with a hint of sweetness in the<br />
fruit. 14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
88 2019 »BB« Bad Bellingen Sonnenstück<br />
Gutedel trocken<br />
On the nose red apple and meadow herbs, also pear peel. On<br />
the palate there is luscious fruit, slender and filigree structured,<br />
freshness and liveliness, animating acidity, juicy and<br />
with a charming portion of sweetness. A cheerful and carefree<br />
nature. 11,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2017 »Angel Hill« Syrah trocken<br />
Dark chocolate, camphor and black pepper, plus buttery<br />
notes with a whiff of oak. Soft and supple onset, poised with<br />
sandy tannins in a rather medium amount, sweet fruit,<br />
creamy background, caramel-like wood flavours which last.<br />
14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
89 2017 »Angel Hill« Merlot trocken<br />
Wild raspberry on the nose, semi-bitter chocolate, some<br />
herbs. On the palate "warm" and full, mellow tannins in medium<br />
doses, ripe acidity, integrated alcohol, some cherry as<br />
89 2019 »Happy Hill« Sauvignon Blanc tr.<br />
The expressive nose shows typical characteristics of the<br />
grape variety such as blackcurrant, mango and passion<br />
fruit, also green pepper and spice. On the palate, sweet,<br />
pure fruit flanked by lively acidity, mango again. Wellbalanced,<br />
elegant. 12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
129
WEINGUT JULIUS ZOTZ<br />
Staufener Strasse 3, 79423 Heitersheim<br />
T: +49 (7634) 508220, info@weingut-zotz.de<br />
www.weingut-zotz.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–12.30 and<br />
13.30–18 hrs, Saturdays 9–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Dennis Meindl<br />
Contact: Martin, Michael and Julian Zotz<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 585,000 (60 % white, 40 % red)/95 ha<br />
This Heitersheim Wiengut is amongst<br />
Baden’s largest. Its 95 hectares are a<br />
rather extended area to cultivate. Notwithstanding<br />
that, the Zotz family actually<br />
concern themselves with (apparently) minor<br />
detail to make wines with a closely defined<br />
provenance. Like the Pinot Noir “Hohlgässle’’,<br />
which received many plaudits from the Falstaff<br />
tasting team by virtue of its thoroughly<br />
sophisticated density. It will age marvellously!<br />
Amongst their white wines we were completely<br />
taken with their flight of three Chardonnays<br />
– there is something for everyone as well as<br />
pairing well with a variety of culinary treats.<br />
92 2018 »500« Heitersheim Maltesergarten<br />
Chardonnay trocken<br />
Wood and yeast, but also hops, sesame and vegetal notes. On<br />
the palate there is some force, but fullness and core harmonise<br />
well with each other, the substantial mid-palate is followed<br />
by a stringent juicy finish. Overall, embracing minerality.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2018 »Terrassen« Badenweiler Römerberg<br />
Chardonnay trocken<br />
Light vanilla notes from wood, linden blossom and a ripe citrus<br />
note, more orange than lemon. Supple onset, textural<br />
and woody sweetness lead into a taut, substantial structure<br />
with firm, stable acidity. Chalky, salty and a dash of lime on<br />
the finish. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2018 »Hohlgässle« Pinot Noir trocken<br />
Concentrated dark berry aromas, elderberry jam and blueberries,<br />
discreet wood and earthy notes. On the palate there<br />
is high compression, firm, ripe, artisan-like tannins, fleshy, respectful<br />
and full of potential, firm acidity. Fresh and refined.<br />
Powerful minerality. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2018 »Terrassen« Badenweiler Römerberg<br />
Pinot Noir trocken<br />
Spicy on the nose, restrained wood accents, in addition a<br />
"German" Spätburgunder scent, a touch of rubber tyres,<br />
mountain bay leaf, elderberry. On the palate there is taut and<br />
dense tannins backed by a solid structure, lively acidity. Juicy<br />
with minerality. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
89 2019 »Alte Reben« Grauburgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 Chardonnay trocken<br />
89 2019 »Uff de Hefe« Gutedel trocken<br />
89 Pinot & Chardonnay Brut<br />
88 2019 Heitersheim Maltesergarten<br />
Chasselas trocken<br />
90 2018 Heitersheim Maltesergarten<br />
Pinot Noir trocken<br />
89 2018 »Alte Reben« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
90 2019 »Alte Reben« Weissburgunder tr.<br />
Straw flowers, chaff, some hops. Immediate onset of saltiness<br />
on the palate, medium-weight in body and extract,<br />
firm acidic backbone, quite an elegant, gastronomic construction.<br />
Supple and mineral-adorned elegant wine.<br />
13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
130 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Heidelberg xxx<br />
PASSIONATE<br />
HOSTS<br />
TOGETHER WITH THE REGION’S WINEMAKERS – ABSOLUTE EXPERTS<br />
WHEN IT COMES TO GASTRONOMY – FALSTAFF HAS CAREFULLY CHOSEN<br />
AND COLLATED THE BEST ADDRESSES FOR EATING,<br />
DRINKING AND STAYING.<br />
heimat<br />
im Malerhaus <br />
77855 Achern<br />
Chef Marcel Göpper and restaurant manager Luisa<br />
Ioannidis offer French-inspired dishes with<br />
charm and pizzazz in their brasserie. The atmosphere<br />
in the historic building is enchanting. In<br />
summer, guests enjoy the beautiful garden complete<br />
with outdoor kitchen.<br />
Storchen<br />
79189 Bad Krozingen -<br />
Schmidhofen<br />
The family-run country inn convinces with regional<br />
specialities, made from the best local produce,<br />
guaranteeing pure, authentic flavours. All this is<br />
paired with exquisite wines from across the region<br />
and beyond. In summer there is open air seating<br />
in a lovely garden with a pond.<br />
Hauptstrasse 104<br />
+49 (7841) 6668870<br />
www.heimat-malerhaus.de<br />
<br />
BADEN<br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 17 | 20<br />
Ambience: 9 | 10<br />
87<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
Felix-und-Nabor-Strasse 2<br />
+49 (7633) 5329<br />
www.storchen-schmidhofen.de<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Fritz Wassmer<br />
80–84<br />
85–89<br />
90–94<br />
95–100 Points<br />
131
Die<br />
Klosterschänke <br />
76530 Baden-Baden<br />
Situated between vineyards and forest, the Klosterschänke<br />
restaurant offers a magnificent view of<br />
the Rhine plain. The Racciatti family will take<br />
good care of you with their mix of Italian and Baden<br />
cuisine. The wine list focuses on Baden and<br />
Italian wines.<br />
Klosterschänke 1<br />
+49 (7221) 25854<br />
www.restaurant-klosterschaenke.de<br />
<br />
Food: 42 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 17 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
85<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
Heiligenstein<br />
76534 Baden-Baden<br />
The wine selection of more than 400 bins holds<br />
both rarities and surprises and is constantly being<br />
expanded by the thoughtful hosts, the Beck family.<br />
In the restaurant, the tradition of fine home<br />
cooking is upheld and cultivated.<br />
Strausswirtschaft<br />
im Weingut Maier<br />
76532 Baden-Baden<br />
A good atmosphere is guaranteed, at least where<br />
juicy wines from the restaurant's own vineyards<br />
are concerned. The kitchen also serves hearty<br />
snacks, fresh Flammkuchen from the wood-fired<br />
oven, pork ribs and, of course, classic Maultaschen<br />
with potato salad in a rustic setting.<br />
Heiligensteinstrasse 19a<br />
+49 (7223) 96140<br />
www.hotel-heiligenstein.de<br />
Karlsruher Strasse 8<br />
+49 (7221) 64197<br />
www.weingutmaier.de<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Holger Dütsch<br />
Restaurant<br />
im Golf Club<br />
76530 Baden-Baden<br />
The atmosphere gets even more cosy when flames<br />
roar in the open fireplace. The kitchen team led by<br />
Uli Krause and Sascha Zeiger also contributes to<br />
these good vibes, offering a colourful selection of<br />
international classics and regional specialities.<br />
Recommended by: Falstaff-Redaktion<br />
Traube<br />
79588 Blansingen<br />
Brian Wawryk in the kitchen and Daniela Hasse<br />
front-of-house are a great team. Both bring a lot<br />
of experience from international top restaurants.<br />
Here in the "Traube" in the small wine village of<br />
Blansingen, they are embarking on their own promising<br />
trajectory.<br />
Fremersbergstrasse 127<br />
+49 (7221) 23527<br />
www.restaurant-im-golfclub.de<br />
Alemannenstrasse 19<br />
+49 (7628) 9423780<br />
www.traube-blansingen.de<br />
Recommended by: Falstaff-Redaktion<br />
Recommended by: Max Geitlinger Wein,<br />
Weingut Brenneisen<br />
132 falstaff<br />
Wine Guide Germany 2021
Rebstock-Stube<br />
79211 Denzlingen<br />
Terrine of foie gras, frog legs ‘provencale’ or Alsatian<br />
partridge ‘vintner's style’ - each and every<br />
dish of this Baden- and French-inspired cooking<br />
comes with its own wine match. This country inn<br />
is run by the seventh generation of the Frey family,<br />
so they know what they are doing.<br />
BADEN<br />
| INNS AND RESTAURANTS<br />
Merkles<br />
Restaurant <br />
79346 Endingen<br />
This elegant, modern restaurant in a former rectory<br />
is known for its cosmopolitan cuisine. Thomas<br />
Merkle skilfully combines Asian spices and<br />
techniques with regional produce and local traditions.<br />
A seductive liaison.<br />
Hauptstrasse 74<br />
+49 (7666) 900990<br />
www.rebstock-stube.de<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Moosmann,<br />
Otto und Martin Frey<br />
Zum Löwen<br />
79591 Eimeldingen<br />
Open all year round, the hotel is the ideal starting<br />
point for excursions to nearby Alsace or Switzerland.<br />
The hotel's own restaurant is no less attractive,<br />
serving down-to-earth food for every taste in<br />
a homely atmosphere.<br />
Hauptstrasse 2<br />
+49 (7642) 7900<br />
www.merkles-restaurant.de<br />
<br />
Wolfshöhle <br />
Food: 46 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 9 | 10<br />
91<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
79098 Freiburg<br />
A varied set menu is available even at lunchtime in<br />
this stylish restaurant, but diners can also choose<br />
à la carte. Everything is prepared with great care<br />
and skill. The kitchen also has imaginative creations<br />
for vegetarians.<br />
Hauptstrasse 23<br />
+49 (7621) 62588<br />
www.loewen-eimeldingen.de<br />
Recommended by: Privat-Sektkellerei Reinecker<br />
Konviktstrasse 8<br />
+49 (761) 30303<br />
www.wolfshoehle-freiburg.de<br />
<br />
Food: 45 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 9 | 10<br />
90<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
Schäcks Adler<br />
79215 Elzach<br />
This is a country inn straight from a picture book.<br />
Its cosy interiors reflect a deep connection to regional<br />
culture and local tradition, something that is<br />
also evident in the cooking. The food is predominantly<br />
made with regional produce: finely executed<br />
Black Forest classics with a creative twist.<br />
Chez Eric<br />
79104 Freiburg im<br />
Breisgau<br />
Wine regions such as Kaiserstuhl and Markgräferland<br />
are in the immediate vicinity and thus the<br />
treasures of these great vineyards can be found in<br />
the wine cellar. The Champagne selection is also<br />
downright sparkling. Mediterranean lightness of<br />
touch features on the menu.<br />
Waldkircher Strasse 2<br />
+49 (7682) 1291<br />
www.schaecks-adler.de<br />
Wintererstrasse 89<br />
+49 (761) 51030<br />
www.chez-eric.de<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Kilian Hunn<br />
Recommended by: Staatsweingut Freiburg<br />
80–84<br />
85–89<br />
90–94<br />
95–100 Points<br />
133
Ponyhof<br />
Stammhaus <br />
77723 Gengenbach<br />
For the Wussler family, tradition does not mean<br />
standing still, quite the opposite. Continuously,<br />
but carefully, they refine Baden cuisine, honing<br />
Black Forest classics and giving the regional cooking<br />
a creative and contemporary touch here and<br />
there.<br />
Zur Sonne <br />
79241 Ihringen<br />
The eye-catching sunflower-yellow façade encourages<br />
a cheerful visit to this traditional inn and<br />
wine hotel. The cuisine is wonderfully unfussy<br />
and offers international classics, as well as Baden<br />
specialities and game dishes from the local hunt.<br />
Mattenhofweg 6<br />
+49 (7803) 1469<br />
www.ponyhof.co<br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 16 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
Hauptstrasse 21<br />
+49 (7668) 229<br />
www.sonne-wasenweiler.de<br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
<br />
85<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
<br />
87<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
Rührberger Hof<br />
79639 Grenzach-Wyhlen<br />
We start with a Winzersekt from the Rhine and<br />
marvel at the lightness of the menu, which features<br />
international delicacies alongside regional<br />
classics. And it's exactly the same with the wines:<br />
great selection of big names and new discoveries.<br />
Inzlinger Strasse 1<br />
+49 (7624) 9161<br />
www.ruehrbergerhof.com<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Claus Schneider<br />
Holzöfele <br />
79241 Ihringen<br />
There was a time when bread was baked where<br />
hearty local cuisine is now served up, with Thassilo<br />
Eyrainer in charge. The cosy restaurant in the<br />
former bakery offers predominantly Baden classics<br />
skilfully enhanced with Mediterranean accents.<br />
Rebstock <br />
77876 Kappelrodeck-<br />
Waldulm<br />
Karl Hodapp has a soft spot for Alsace and Baden<br />
and draws culinary inspiration from these regions.<br />
A great combination that finds its most beautiful<br />
expression in the quail stuffed with goose<br />
liver, apple and black pudding on creamy sauerkraut.<br />
Great wine selection with 400 bins.<br />
Bachenstrasse 46<br />
+49 (7668) 207<br />
www.holzoefele.de<br />
<br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 17 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
86<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
Kutzendorf 1<br />
+49 (7842) 9480<br />
www.rebstock-waldulm.de<br />
<br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 17 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 9 | 10<br />
87<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
Photo: Felix Groteloh<br />
134 falstaff<br />
Wine Guide Germany 2021
Cantina Majolika<br />
76131 Karlsruhe<br />
Simple and contemporary elegance dominates in<br />
this restaurant which extends over two levels. You<br />
can watch the crew cooking In the open kitchen,<br />
and the freshly prepared menu is a successful<br />
cross-section of international and German cooking<br />
styles.<br />
BADEN<br />
| INNS AND RESTAURANTS<br />
Adler Restaurant <br />
77933 Lahr<br />
The fourth generation is already at work in this<br />
family business. Daniel Fehrenbacher succeeds in<br />
creating a cosmopolitan cuisine with classic<br />
French roots. His wife Kerstin, a competent sommelier,<br />
has great intuition for what her guests may<br />
like and a sure hand when recommending wines.<br />
Ahaweg 6-8<br />
+49 (721) 1611492<br />
www.cantinamajolika.de<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Schweder<br />
Reichenbacher Hauptstrasse 18<br />
+49 (7821) 906390<br />
www.adler-lahr.de<br />
<br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 17 | 20<br />
Drinks: 17 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
85<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
79341 Kenzingen<br />
Scheidels<br />
Restaurant zum Kranz<br />
The award-winning Baden restaurant is known<br />
for its excellent, no-frills cuisine. The cooking is<br />
classic with French-Mediterranean accents, and<br />
the specialities are local game, fillet of pike-perch<br />
and halibut in Riesling sauce.<br />
79379 Müllheim<br />
Alte Post – Hebelstube<br />
In this family-run country hotel amongst vineyards<br />
close to the river Rhine, sustainability, organic<br />
production and regionality are combined<br />
with creative and ambitious cooking. Food of the<br />
highest organic order is accompanied by a large<br />
selection of excellent wines.<br />
Photo: Felix Groteloh<br />
Offenburger Strasse 18<br />
+49 (7644) 6855<br />
www.scheidels-kranz.de<br />
Recommended by: Falstaff-Redaktion<br />
Posthalterweg/An der B 3<br />
+49 (7631) 17870<br />
www.alte-post.net<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Fritz Wassmer<br />
80–84<br />
85–89<br />
90–94<br />
95–100 Points<br />
135
Spielweg<br />
79244 Münstertal<br />
Seasonal Baden cuisine is the focus of Viki Fuchs,<br />
who has followed in her father's gastronomic<br />
footsteps. The young chef brings has made real<br />
impact with her fresh ideas, her dim sum of wild<br />
boar already is one of the specialities of the friendly<br />
family business.<br />
Oxalis<br />
79859 Schluchsee<br />
This historic country house not only promises peace<br />
and relaxation: apart from the boutique hotel,<br />
the restaurant also comes highly recommended.<br />
The ambitious cuisine uses mainly regional and<br />
seasonal produce, and the well thought-out wine<br />
list leaves little to be desired.<br />
Spielweg 61<br />
+49 (7636) 709<br />
www.spielweg.com<br />
Unterer Mühlenweg 13<br />
+49 (7656) 209<br />
www.muehle-schluchsee.de<br />
Recommended by: Max Geitlinger Wein<br />
Zur Krone <br />
76777 Neupotz<br />
With his tasting menu, Faycal Bettioui sends his<br />
guests on an exciting gastronomic journey through<br />
the diverse and multifaceted world of aromas.<br />
The friendly staff offer matching wines, always<br />
accompanied by little stories on the topic of<br />
pleasure.<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Hanspeter Ziereisen<br />
Grüner Baum <br />
79263 Simonswald<br />
The best introduction to the regional cuisine of<br />
this beautiful restaurant is the selection of Black<br />
Forest starters. The ambitious kitchen uses local<br />
produce, which here and there are skilfully enhanced<br />
by Mediterranean overtones.<br />
Hauptstrasse 25<br />
+49 (7272) 9337845<br />
www.zurkroneneupotz.de<br />
Food: 45 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
Neuenweg 1<br />
+49 (7683) 264<br />
www.gruenerbaum-simonswald.de<br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 17 | 20<br />
Drinks: 17 | 20<br />
Ambience: 9 | 10<br />
<br />
89<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
<br />
86<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
Zehner's Stube<br />
79292 Pfaffenweiler<br />
Foie gras, turbot, pigeon breast – Fritz Zehner is a<br />
master of timeless cuisine, which he constantly revives<br />
with new impulses. His sauces have beguiled<br />
palates for decades. And best of all: the wine list<br />
can easily keep up. Relaxed atmosphere.<br />
Rebstock<br />
79295 Sulzburg<br />
In his restaurant Christoph Keller combines Baden<br />
home cooking with the finer classics of Baden<br />
cuisine. This is accompanied by wines from the<br />
Markgräflerland region. As a representative of the<br />
Slow Food Association, Keller emphasises the<br />
pleasures of regional produce.<br />
Weinstrasse 39<br />
+49 (7664) 6225<br />
www.zehnersstube.de<br />
Hauptstrasse 77<br />
+49 (7634) 503140<br />
www.rebstock-in-sulzburg.de<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Brenneisen<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Zähringer<br />
136 falstaff<br />
Wine Guide Germany 2021
BADEN<br />
Löwen <br />
| INNS AND RESTAURANTS<br />
79183 Waldkirch<br />
Although the family-run inn has dedicated itself<br />
to Baden cuisine, it also manages to look further<br />
afield. The traditional dishes are based on regional<br />
and seasonal produce, and even the juicy<br />
steaks come from German cattle.<br />
Köpfers<br />
Steinbuck <br />
79235 Vogtsburg<br />
Stylish ambience, unfussy cuisine and friendly<br />
hosts: the concept of this dedicated family business<br />
is commendable and good times are guaranteed<br />
here. As a fitting accompaniment to Stephan<br />
Köpfer's cuisine, there are around 250 different<br />
wines in the cellar.<br />
Schwarzwaldstrasse 34<br />
+49 (7681) 9868<br />
www.loewen-buchholz.com<br />
<br />
Zur Krone<br />
Food: 42 | 50<br />
Service: 17 | 20<br />
Drinks: 17 | 20<br />
Ambience: 7 | 10<br />
83<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
79576 Weil am Rhein<br />
In this family-run business, tradition and a modern<br />
way of life are combined sympathetically.<br />
The stylish restaurant, which is open for lunch<br />
and dinner, also succeeds in this balancing act and<br />
the regionally inspired dishes always have a noticeable<br />
modern touch.<br />
Steinbuckstrasse 20<br />
+49 (7662) 9494650<br />
www.koepfers-steinbuck.de<br />
<br />
Rebstock <br />
Food: 44 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 9 | 10<br />
89<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
79235 Vogtsburg<br />
If, like here, the landlord is one of Germany's largest<br />
wine merchants, delving into the wine list is<br />
an exciting prospect. The Winzerhaus kitchen serves<br />
down-to-earth and traditional dishes from the<br />
region. The wood-panelled parlour has a wonderfully<br />
rustic feel.<br />
Hauptstrasse 58<br />
+49 (7621) 71164<br />
www.kroneweil.de<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Claus Schneider<br />
Badbergstrasse 22<br />
+49 (7662) 933011<br />
www.franz-keller.de<br />
<br />
Food: 44 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 19 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
89<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
Kaiserstuhl<br />
80–84<br />
85–89<br />
90–94<br />
95–100 Points<br />
137
Photo: WSNA<br />
FRANKEN<br />
A RAINBOW OF<br />
WINEMAKING DIVERSITY
Fortress Marienberg: an impressive<br />
historic monument, adorned with vines<br />
FRANKEN<br />
IS ACTUALLY COOL<br />
Is wine from Franken for old men wearing old hats? Of course not,<br />
says our 1998-born writer in her love letter to this wine region<br />
and its stubborn winemakers.<br />
WORDS ELENA SCHEER<br />
Istarted studying psychology in<br />
Würzburg. Thus I bid farewell to my<br />
wonderful hometown in the Free Federal<br />
State of Bavaria. Courageous. Not that<br />
readers elsewhere misunderstand me;<br />
while Franken (Franconia) belongs to the<br />
Federal state of Bavaria, Franken most<br />
definitely is not Bavaria. I left Würzburg<br />
as a student of wine economics and trainee<br />
sommelier.<br />
Well, all that is possible in Franken,<br />
especially in the wine region of Franken.<br />
And this is exactly what I want to write<br />
about. Because it is glorious. As you can<br />
tell from these initial words, I think that<br />
Franken is rather cool. Alright, the<br />
winemakers are not exactly easy-going,<br />
sometimes they are even a little stubborn.<br />
But hey, a Silvaner without a certain<br />
seriousness makes no sense either.<br />
Which is how we get to wine. Where wine<br />
is concerned, Franken probably is the most<br />
underrated region you can imagine. Let me<br />
tell you: things are happening! From<br />
long-established super-producers to many<br />
lunatics creating pretty crazy stuff, anything<br />
goes here. There is a rainbow of winemaking<br />
diversity and numerous names spring to<br />
mind. In the former camp you will certainly<br />
find the Sauers, the Schmitts, Fürst, Castell,<br />
Wirsching. The list is long. And you can<br />
always rely on our Spitäler (ancient charitable<br />
foundations with wine production)<br />
when you are on the lookout for a salty,<br />
bone-dry Silvaner or a racy, fresh Riesling.<br />
Those looking for the “lunatic” category<br />
140 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
FRANKEN | A PORTRAIT OF THE REGION<br />
will strike gold with a madman like Andi<br />
Weigand, an anarchist like Laura Seufert<br />
or experimentalists like the Krämers. And<br />
by the way, for me all these attributes are<br />
positive.<br />
But no matter into which camps you want<br />
to assign these people, the former, the<br />
latter or anywhere in between, there is no<br />
shortage of stubbornness and that’s<br />
precisely why the wines are so good!<br />
VINEYARD CHAT<br />
These vineyards are stony! That’s just<br />
great when you stand there at a perceived<br />
heat of 50°C/122°F. Then there’s the killer<br />
steepness, better still, when you lose your<br />
footing, like I did when I worked for the<br />
“Trockene Schmitts” in the Randersackerer<br />
Pfülben. But despite my whinging; it was<br />
fun to be in the vineyard with these<br />
winemakers. It is wonderful to experience<br />
with how much passion the vines are<br />
tended. Like children. Like tiny<br />
Silvaner- babies, or something like that. In<br />
any case, stubbornness defines the<br />
Franconian vineyard. Nothing is left to<br />
chance. One leaf too many during deleafing<br />
is a gross mistake on the part of<br />
the trainee and prompts a renewed lecture<br />
The masterminds behind Weingut Trockene<br />
Schmitts: brothers Bruno and Paul Schmitt<br />
and Paul’s son Lothar<br />
on the art of canopy management. Things<br />
just have to be done properly. But exactly<br />
that attention to detail results in great<br />
wine in the end. The vine and its fruit:<br />
that’s what everything hinges on in the<br />
end.<br />
But this also is true: “You have to trust<br />
your vines,” one of the winemakers told<br />
me. And yet I do not know a greater<br />
mechanic and machine-freak than<br />
Photos: Photography was provided<br />
Weingut Juliusspital – the biggest grower<br />
of Silvaner in the world<br />
141
The May family have made wine for 300 years,<br />
in 1998 they founded their own estate<br />
Benni May. You could say he is the<br />
MacGyver of winemakers.<br />
STRAIGHT TALK<br />
Let’s return to the weather which, sadly, I<br />
do have to mention, despite all the fun<br />
and games. “A total catastrophe.” “A year<br />
of extremes.” These are quotes by Nina<br />
Bunzelt from Nordheim, evoking the<br />
vintages 2011, 2020 and partially also<br />
2019. All these years had one thing in<br />
common: late spring frost. This miserable<br />
beast that makes life difficult for the wine<br />
growers in Franken. My heart bleeds<br />
when I hear of the significant loss of fruit:<br />
in some places 30%, in others 90%. And<br />
this happens to people who do<br />
backbreaking work in their vineyards<br />
year on year – and a single night of frost<br />
kills an entire vintage!<br />
FRANKEN WINE REGION<br />
Growing area<br />
Approx. 6100 hectares<br />
Administrative Split<br />
3 districts (Bereiche), 23 collective sites<br />
(Grosslagen), 216 single sites (Einzellagen)<br />
Soils<br />
Triassic limestone, Keuper (marl), Triassic<br />
sandstone<br />
Important Grape Varieties<br />
Silvaner, Riesling, Müller-Thurgau,<br />
Spätburgunder<br />
Vineyard Chapel<br />
Winegrowers’ Association<br />
Frankenland GmbH, Hertzstrasse 12<br />
97076 Würzburg<br />
www.frankenwein-aktuell.de<br />
142 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
FRANKEN | A PORTRAIT OF THE REGION<br />
It is not a beautiful subject but not one<br />
we can skate over. In 2019, for instance,<br />
Rudi May in Retzstadt had the lowest<br />
yields in the entire history of his wine<br />
estate. There was, however, some small<br />
comfort in the fact that the few grapes he<br />
could harvest were of superb quality and<br />
the resulting wines, beautifully complex.<br />
An extreme version of yield reduction,<br />
one could say. Where 2020 is concerned,<br />
Nina Bunzelt said: “Whatever fruit survived<br />
the frost will have great quality.”<br />
Apart from the spring frost, 2019 was a<br />
very warm, dry year. The fruit was super<br />
healthy throughout, comes with fine aromatics<br />
and has more of an acidic spine<br />
than 2018.<br />
And note, I am returning to the fun bits. I<br />
also assume that my former schoolteacher<br />
is belatedly awarding me poor marks for<br />
the sheer number of times I am using the<br />
term “dry” in this text. In any case, it is of<br />
no importance. Dry, dry, dry! That is<br />
Franken.<br />
But hang on. What’s going on here? Schloss<br />
Sommerhausen is making mischief again.<br />
Martin Steinmann completes his portfolio<br />
of grandiose, bone-dry Sekts with some<br />
At Weingut Rainer Sauer father Rainer makes<br />
classically vinified wines while son Daniel offers<br />
contemporary creations<br />
that have gentle residual sweetness. But<br />
let’s be honest, who doesn’t love a Kabinett<br />
style. And imagine it with fizz. Really cool.<br />
And now imagine slightly hot cuisine. Just<br />
another string to Franken’s bow.<br />
INFO<br />
Read more about this author in our Tasting Panel<br />
chapter on page 12.<br />
Photos: Photography was provided<br />
Martin Steinmann – Jack of all trades and<br />
master of everything at Schloss Sommerhausen<br />
143
One of Franken’s most famous sites:<br />
Escherndorfer Lump<br />
GRANDS CRUS – FRANKEN<br />
TOP WINES FROM PRIVILEGED SITES OF THE REGION<br />
CASTELL | SCHLOSSBERG<br />
This 4.5ha/11.12 acre monopole belonging<br />
to the Fürstlich Castell’sches Domänenamt<br />
rises from 300-390m/984-1279ft. The<br />
heat-retaining soils of grey-blue clay and<br />
gypsum keuper (a heavy marl) help to<br />
create a mild mesoclimate. There also are<br />
veins of alabaster. The Schlossberg has<br />
inclines from 40-60%.<br />
95 2015 Silvaner GG<br />
92 2008 Silvaner GG<br />
Fürstlich Castell’sches Domänenamt, page 151<br />
ESCHERNDORF | LUMP<br />
The name of this steep, sickle-shaped site,<br />
clinging snugly to a bend of the river Main,<br />
is derived from the countless small parcels<br />
that were created by the ongoing divisions<br />
of inherited land. Despite its 37ha/91 acre<br />
size, the Lump vineyard is fairly<br />
homogenous, the soils are of Triassic<br />
limestone, inclines of 60-70% are at<br />
altitudes from 190-270m/623-885ft.<br />
95 2019 »Am Lumpen 1655« Silvaner GG<br />
Weingut Rainer Sauer, further info on page 175<br />
94 2019 »Am Lumpen 1655« Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Rainer Sauer, further info on page 175<br />
93 2018 »Am Lumpen 1655« Silvaner GG<br />
Weingut Egon Schäffer, www.weingut-schaeffer.de<br />
93 2019 »Am Lumpen 1655« Riesling GG<br />
92 2019 »Am Lumpen 1655« Silvaner GG<br />
Weingut Horst Sauer, further info on page 174<br />
92 2018 Riesling Erste Lage trocken<br />
Weingut Rainer Sauer, further info on page 175<br />
92 2018 »Grosses Gewächs«<br />
Silvaner trocken<br />
Weingut Meier-Schmidt, further info on page 165<br />
92 2018 »Am Lumpen 1655« Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Egon Schäffer, www.weingut-schaeffer.de<br />
92 2019 »Am Lumpen 1655« Silvaner GG<br />
Michael Fröhlich, www.weingut-michael-froehlich.de<br />
92 2018 »Am Lumpen 1655« Riesling GG<br />
91 2017 »Am Lumpen 1655« Riesling GG<br />
Michael Fröhlich, www.weingut-michael-froehlich.de<br />
144 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
FRANKEN | GRANDS CRUS<br />
91 2018 Sylvaner trocken<br />
Weingut Römmert, further info on page 171<br />
91 2019 Riesling Erste Lage trocken »S«,<br />
Weingut Horst Sauer, further info on page 174<br />
91 2018 »Stairway to Heaven« Silvaner tr.<br />
91 2018 Silvaner erste Lage trocken<br />
Weingut Egon Schäffer, www.weingut-schaeffer.de<br />
91 2019 »Am Lumpen 1655« Silvaner GG<br />
91 2019 »Am Lumpen 1655« Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Zur Schwane, www.schwane.de<br />
90 2019 Silvaner Erste Lage trocken<br />
Weingut Rainer Sauer, further info on page 175<br />
90 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
Weingut Römmert, further info on page 171<br />
90 2018 »Am Lumpen 1655« Silvaner GG<br />
Michael Fröhlich, www.weingut-michael-froehlich.de<br />
89 2019 Silvaner Erste Lage trocken »S«<br />
Weingut Horst Sauer,<br />
further info on page 174<br />
IPHOFEN | JULIUS-ECHTER-BERG<br />
This site, rising from 270-370m/885-<br />
1213ft on the southern flank of the<br />
Schwanberg mountain is of grey-blue<br />
keuper soils with fossil inclusions. This<br />
almost 47ha/116 acre site is made up of a<br />
flatter, convex foothill and stony, steep<br />
slopes with inclines of up to 65%.<br />
95 2015 Silvaner GG<br />
Weingut Hans Wirsching, further info on page 187<br />
94 1990 Silvaner Auslese feinherb<br />
Weingut Johann Arnold, www.weingut-arnold.de<br />
93 2018 Silvaner GG<br />
Weingut Hans Wirsching, further info on page 187<br />
93 2019 Silvaner GG<br />
93 2017 Silvaner GG<br />
Weingut Johann Ruck, www.ruckwein.de<br />
93 2019 Silvaner »I« Spätlese trocken<br />
Weingut Popp, www.weingut-popp.de<br />
92 2018 Silvaner GG<br />
Weingut Juliusspital, further info on page 161<br />
92 2019 Silvaner Kabinett trocken<br />
Weingut Popp, www.weingut-popp.de<br />
92 2018 Silvaner »No.5« trocken<br />
92 2016 Silvaner »Martins Meisterstück<br />
No.3« trocken<br />
Weingut Emmerich,<br />
www.weingut-emmerich.de<br />
91 2019 Silvaner Erste Lage trocken,<br />
Weingut Hans Wirsching, further info on page 187<br />
91 2019 Silvaner Spätlese trocken<br />
Weingut Dorsch, www.weingut-dorsch.de<br />
Frank-Saale<br />
Alzenau<br />
Photos: Photography was provided<br />
Main<br />
Main Aschaffenburg<br />
LUMP<br />
STEIN/<br />
STEIN-<br />
KALLMUTH<br />
HARFE<br />
Eschendorf<br />
SCHLOSSBERG<br />
Homburg Würzburg<br />
Castell<br />
Klingenberg<br />
Randersacker SCHLOSSBERG<br />
PFÜLBEN<br />
JULIUS-ECHTER-BERG<br />
Iphofen<br />
Selected Grand Cru Sites<br />
Vineyard Area<br />
Villages<br />
145
This 27ha/67 acre site of Triassic red<br />
sandstone, almost completely terraced, is<br />
emblematic for the Churfranken subregion.<br />
Its relatively low altitude (120-230m /393-<br />
754ft), its south-south-western to southwestern<br />
aspect and extreme steepness, with<br />
inclines of up to 85%, make it one of the<br />
warmest in all of Franken.<br />
95 2018 Spätburgunder GG,<br />
Weingut Rudolf Fürst, further info on page 155<br />
94 2018 Spätburgunder GG<br />
Weingut Steintal, further info on page 182<br />
93 2018 Spätburgunder Auslese trocken<br />
Anja Stritzinger, www.weinbau-stritzinger.de<br />
RANDERSACKER | PFÜLBEN<br />
Randersacker, Pfülben<br />
WÜRZBURG STEIN / WÜRZBURG<br />
STEIN-HARFE<br />
Today the Stein is 71ha/175 acres large, the<br />
Stein Harfe 7.7ha/19 acres. The good, classic<br />
part of the vineyard has an incline of up to<br />
75% whereas Harfe, a monopole owned by<br />
the Bürgerspital, reaches inclines between<br />
50-60%. The stony soils are of weathered<br />
Triassic limestone.<br />
95 2019 Stein-Harfe Silvaner GG<br />
Bürgerspital zum Hl. Geist, further info on page 150<br />
94 2018 Silvaner GG<br />
Weingut Juliusspital, further info on page 161<br />
94 2019 Silvaner Spätlese trocken R<br />
Weingut Reiss, www.weingut-reiss.com<br />
92 2019 Silvaner Erste Lage trocken<br />
Bürgerspital zum Hl. Geist, further info on page 150<br />
92 2019 Silvaner GG<br />
91 2018 Silvaner GG<br />
Staatlicher Hofkeller Würzburg, further info on p. 158<br />
KLINGENBERG | SCHLOSSBERG<br />
“Pfülben” is a term for pillow and this one<br />
clings to the undercut bank of the river Main.<br />
Its south-west-facing parcels benefit from<br />
the light reflection and heat retention of the<br />
water. The slope turns south and south-southeast<br />
into a lateral valley but not much further<br />
than 400m from the river. Its 19ha/47 acres<br />
have inclines between 30-70% and rise from<br />
185-270m/610-885ft.<br />
93 2019 Silvaner GG<br />
92 2018 Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Schmitt’s Kinder, further info on page 176<br />
90 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Staatlicher Hofkeller Würzburg, further info on p. 158<br />
HOMBURG | KALLMUTH<br />
This site measures 43ha/106 acres and has<br />
inclines of up to 75%. This slope, with its<br />
countless terraces held in place by<br />
12km/7.4 miles of dry stone walls, is a<br />
geological curiosity: the transition between<br />
the Triassic layers of red sandstone and<br />
cream-coloured limestone runs right<br />
through the vineyard.<br />
93 2018 »Asphodill« Fürstlicher Kallmuth<br />
Silvaner GG<br />
91 2015 Silvaner »S« trocken<br />
91 2019 Silvaner Erste Lage trocken<br />
90 2019 Silvaner »S« trocken<br />
Weingut Fürst Löwenstein, further info on page 163<br />
90 2019 Silvaner »Luna« trocken<br />
89 2019 Silvaner Alte Reben Spätlese tr.<br />
Weingut Huller, Further info on page 160<br />
146 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Franken | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT STEFAN BARDORF<br />
BACCHUSSTUBE<br />
Ochsenfurter Strasse 4, 97236 Randersacker<br />
T: +49 (170) 4020159<br />
info@weingut-bardorf.com, www.weingut-bardorf.com<br />
Cellar Door: daily from 9–20 hrs by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Stefan Bardorf<br />
Contact: Stefan Bardorf<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 23,000 (85 % white, 15 % red)/3 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
It is remarkable what Stefan Bardorf manages<br />
to get out of his three hectares of<br />
vines every year. He has farmed them organically<br />
and with much dedication since<br />
2015. But Bardorf is no one-trick-pony. Not<br />
only does he make bone-dry, so called ‘fränkisch<br />
trocken’ white wines, like Silvaner and<br />
Weissburgunder that go wonderfully with<br />
food – a fact that can be put to the test at his<br />
Gasthaus Löwen in Randersacker, he also<br />
makes exquisite sweet wines like his Riesling<br />
TBA from the Randersacker Marsberg site. If<br />
he manages to keep this up, he is a contender<br />
for a third star!<br />
91 2018 »Alte Reben RR« Randersacker<br />
Ewig Leben Silvaner trocken<br />
Fragrant spiciness overwhelms on the nose - delightful. But<br />
at the same time rather chiselled and interwoven. Complex<br />
on the palate, creamy and vital, perfectly balanced acidity<br />
with nuances of exotic fruits, some tannins and pleasant<br />
edges. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
91 2019 Randesacker Marsberg Riesling Auslese<br />
Very fresh aromas of ripe fruit peach and exotic fruit, pineapple.<br />
But also here, as with the dry wines, not too loud. Multifaceted<br />
and cool. Great acidity accompanies the extraordinary<br />
sweetness, very good balance of the elements.<br />
7 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
88 2019 »Blanc de Noir« Randersacker<br />
Ewig Leben Spätburgunder trocken<br />
90 2018 »RR« Randersacker Ewig Leben<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Present aromas of white blossom, pear, peach and herbs, but<br />
also some ripe notes. All very restrained and complex. On the<br />
palate there is a lot of texture and light tannins in balance<br />
with acidity and fruit. Good length, an animating Pinot to<br />
drink. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap<br />
93 2019 Randesacker Marsberg<br />
Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese<br />
Blackcurrants and redcurrants , elderberry and bergamot on<br />
the fragrant nose. Concentrated on the palate with clear viscosity.<br />
Lots of power, but also dancing fruit. Harmonious and<br />
with tension.Combines both aspects skilfully and in a delicious<br />
way. 6 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€€<br />
90 2019 »Fumé« Randersacker Ewig Leben<br />
Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Aromas typical of the grape variety which dwindle a little<br />
with air contact then notes of gooseberry, cassis, tomato<br />
leaf and fine smoke. Excellent balance of fruit and acidity<br />
as well as texture and minerality. Lots of grip and animating<br />
tension, Sauvignon Blanc with ambition.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
147
WEINHAUS BOESSNECK<br />
Lange Gasse 26/28, 97346 Iphofen<br />
T: +49 (175) 8225394, Weinhaus@boessneck.com<br />
www.boessneck.com<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Mathias Meimberg<br />
Contact: Mathias Meimberg and Johannes Arnold<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 3,000/1 ha<br />
Mathias Meimberg and Johannes Arnold<br />
are the two men behind Weinhaus<br />
Boessneck – it is their aim to<br />
make premium Sekt and wine from just<br />
0.89ha of vineyards. The wine range that this<br />
duo presented may be small but it is exquisite<br />
and full of surprises. Their Sekt “resolut”<br />
shows stature and complexity after seven<br />
years on lees while the bone-dry “black” Sekt<br />
does not have to hide, either. The uncompromising<br />
Sylvaner does not give a fig for convention,<br />
the powerfully smooth Spätburgunder<br />
makes the mark where red wine is concerned.<br />
A surprising discovery in Franken!<br />
92 »black« brut nature<br />
Deep yellow appearance with scents of ripe yellow apple,<br />
wild raspberry, aniseed biscuits, brioche and a dash of saffron<br />
with a somewhat malty, slight oxidative note. Full-bodied<br />
and complex on the palate, distinctly dry and also demanding<br />
with fine spiciness and subtle fruit nuances depicting<br />
individual uniqueness. Long finish!<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
92 2013 »resolut« brut nature<br />
Cardamom and allspice on the nose, apple peel, aniseed<br />
rolls, brioche, floral notes and fir honey. On the palate there<br />
is very fine mousse, relatively mild acidity and also good<br />
freshness and tension, emphatically dry, somewhat salty.<br />
Uncomplicated. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
92 2016 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Ripe cherry and cassis in the full aroma, followed by smoke,<br />
some seaweed, hint of tar, black tea, blood orange and sultanas.<br />
At first soft on the palate, some beetroot, then tension<br />
and texture build up, distinctive tannins, power and suppleness.<br />
Good potential. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2017 Sylvaner trocken<br />
Smoky, spicy nose with woody aromas, pear and quince<br />
with hints of pepper, no obvious primary fruit. Tautly built<br />
on the palate, emphatically dry, phenolic, good density and<br />
also concentration. Uncompromising, unconventional.<br />
Ageing potential! 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€€<br />
148 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Franken | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT BRÖNNER & HEILMANN<br />
Am Sportplatz 9, 63791 Karlstein am Main<br />
T: +49 (6188) 9595231<br />
tr@weingut-broenner-heilmann.de<br />
www.weingut-broenner-heilmann.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Simon Quass<br />
Contact: Tatiana Römischer<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 50,000 (85 % white, 15 % red)/14 ha<br />
This relatively new estate – it was only in<br />
January 2018 that Weingut Heilmann<br />
and Weinanbau Brönner merged into<br />
Weingut Heilmann & Brönner – excellently<br />
manages to do the splits between accessible<br />
every-day wines and demanding single-site<br />
wines. Thus the hale and hearty entry-level<br />
Riesling “Heilmännchen” has as its counterpart<br />
a veritable terroir Riesling from the Wasserloser<br />
Schlossberg site, and the cleverly balanced<br />
“summertime”-blends sahre the stage<br />
with the carefully extracted Sankt Laurent.<br />
At this level, the ascent to the two-star-category<br />
no longer too distant.<br />
91 2019 Wasserlos Schlossberg<br />
Riesling Spätlese trocken<br />
In the fragrance tangerine, yeast, with a flinty, mineral, spicy<br />
undertone. Juicy and discreet on the palate, mealy phenolics,<br />
ripe acidity, good density, strong tactile mineral notes at<br />
the end. A quite complete, well-developed single-vineyard<br />
wine. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 »Heilmännchen« Riesling trocken<br />
Passion fruit and vine peach, finely nuanced on the nose. Firm<br />
onset of Riesling acidity, full-bodied on the midpalate, compact<br />
and closed on the finish. Medium weight in density and length.<br />
A natural and genuine Riesling. 12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
92 2017 Michelbach Steinberg St. Laurent tr.<br />
Bitter chocolate, rum raisin, discreet wood on the nose. On<br />
the palate, a fine grain of tannin on a supple but not excessively<br />
soft base, medium density, good proportions, well-integrated<br />
and ripe acidity. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2018 Michelbach Steinberg<br />
Spätburgunder Spätlese trocken<br />
Some herbs, sweet cherry and milk chocolate. Fine-grained<br />
tannins, already relatively mellow, ripe acidity, good body<br />
and density, the alcohol is well integrated. A powerful Pinot<br />
Noir that shows the warmth of the year in a charming way.<br />
15 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 Bacchus halbtrocken<br />
89 2019 »Summertime Weiss«<br />
trocken MT/KR/SB/BC/TR/RR<br />
88 2019 Wasserlos Pinot Grigio feinherb<br />
88 2019 Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
88 2019 Wasserlos Gewürztraminer feinherb<br />
87 2019 Müller-Thurgau halbtrocken<br />
88 2019 »Summertime Ice« feinherb<br />
90 2018 Wasserlos Schlossberg Domina tr.<br />
Fruity aromas of black cherry and milk chocolate, plus<br />
some wild herbs and slightly yeasty notes. On the palate<br />
there is a supple base and rich tannins, mild in acidity, with<br />
a slight sweetness in the fruit. Franken's answer to Primitivo.<br />
14 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
149
BÜRGERSPITAL ZUM HL. GEIST<br />
Theaterstrasse 19, 97070 Würzburg<br />
T: +49 (931) 3503441, weingut@buergerspital.de<br />
www.buergerspital.de<br />
Cellar Door: Wine shop Mondays 9–18 hrs, Tuesdays<br />
through Saturdays 9–24 hrs, Sundays 11–18 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Robert Haller, Karl Brand, Elmar Nun<br />
Contact: Robert Haller<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 820,000 (85 % white, 10 % red,<br />
5 % sweet)/120 ha<br />
With its Grosses Gewächs “Stein-<br />
Harfe’’, the Bürgerspital once again<br />
presents one of Germany’s best Silvaners<br />
– an icon and symbol of this grape variety<br />
– to which one of our tasters attested a<br />
“calm, mineral spirituality which allows the<br />
stone to shine through.” The team surrounding<br />
estate director Robert Haller yet again presented<br />
an exquisite range of wines where the Rieslings<br />
step further into the limelight along the Silvaners:<br />
the “Hagemann” Riesling from the<br />
Würzburger Stein site shows concentration and<br />
site expression in a very smooth fashion. This is<br />
Franken presented in the very best light!<br />
95 2019 Würzburg Stein-Harfe Silvaner GG<br />
Beeswax, herbs and apricot kernels on the nose, also darker<br />
aromas of rosehip, tea and miso. Good density and bundling<br />
on the palate, relaxed and silky, yet powerful and precise. A<br />
calm, mineral spirituality that lets the stone shine through.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
93 2019 Würzburg Stein Hagemann Riesling GG<br />
Still closed on the nose, opens with aromas of apricot, amalfi<br />
lemons, leafy greens and crushed rock, terpenes and a tad of<br />
malt. Concentrated in a supple and almost velvety way, a<br />
power that is softly coated and pervaded by minerality, deep<br />
and long. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
92 2019 Würzburg Stein Silvaner Erste Lage tr.<br />
Apple and pear on the nose and also yellow fruit, fine smoky<br />
and mineral hints, warm stone, nutmeg. Juicy and spicy on<br />
the palate alongside present and cultivated acidity, well-perceived<br />
power, dense and mineral. Good balance and potential.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
92 2019 Würzburg Innere Leiste Silvaner<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
Tropical fruit on the nose, papaya and ripe mango which determine<br />
the character, hints of pineapple too. Powerful<br />
structure with ripe acidity and ample texture, creaminess<br />
with Triassic limestone notes. Mineral, supple with good<br />
depth combined with length. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
92 2019 Würzburg Stein-Harfe Riesling GG<br />
91 2019 Randersacker Teufelskeller<br />
Riesling Erste Lage trocken<br />
91 2019 Würzburg Stein Riesling Erste Lage tr.<br />
90 2019 Würzburg Stein<br />
Weissburgunder Erste Lage trocken<br />
90 2019 Würzburg Silvaner trocken<br />
89 2019 Würzburg Riesling trocken<br />
91 2018 »R« Würzburg Stein<br />
Blaufränkisch Erste Lage trocken<br />
91 2019 Würzburg Pfaffenberg<br />
Silvaner Erste Lage trocken<br />
Mirabelle plums and ripe apple on the nose and in a herbaceous<br />
ambience. Texture and ripe acidity on the palate,<br />
plus herbal notes and spice, juicy with mouthfeel and also<br />
marked by the terroir, plus phenolic accents. Multi-layered<br />
and consistent, good length. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
150 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Franken | WINERIES<br />
<br />
FÜRSTLICH CASTELL’SCHES<br />
DOMÄNENAMT<br />
Schlossplatz 5, 97355 Castell<br />
T: +49 (9325) 60160, weingut@castell.de<br />
www.castell.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Christian Friess<br />
Contact: Peter Geil<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 450,000 (86 % white, 14 % red)/70 ha<br />
95 2015 Castell Schlossberg Silvaner GG<br />
Linden blossom and meadow herbs on the nose - nuanced,<br />
but not yet fully developed. On the palate there is great volume,<br />
dense mineral extract, a layer of phenolics. The strong<br />
alcohol is completely countered by substance and acidity.<br />
An iron fist with velvety tendencies.<br />
14,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
93 2016 »6. Apriles Anno 1659« Silvaner tr.<br />
Discreet woody spice. Supple onset of emphatically textured<br />
evolution, firm acid backbone and peppery terroir notes embrace<br />
drive and tension. The use of wood remains unobtrusive,<br />
the full-bodied and distinctly tart wine gains by its composure.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
92 2012 Schloss Castell Silvaner Brut<br />
Light greenish yellow with elegant brioche aromas. Mineral-salty<br />
onset with smoky aromas and fine mousse. Yellow-fruited<br />
notes with added creaminess. Very balanced and<br />
delicate. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2008 Castell Schlossberg Silvaner GG<br />
Ripe spice on the nose, roasted sesame and meadow herbs.<br />
On the palate there is some volume, firm acidity, dense extract<br />
and a mineral background. The palate structure still<br />
seems almost indestructibly robust and firm - and has more<br />
years of potential. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
Ferdinand Fürst Castell knows that you<br />
start sweeping a staircase from the top<br />
and, leading by example, forges ahead<br />
with the utmost consistency: from now on the estate<br />
will present one single Grosses Gewächs only,<br />
its Schlossberg-Silvaner. In future, this wine will<br />
be allowed to mature for a full five years before release.<br />
The brilliant 2015 vintage of the wine is a<br />
principal witness when it comes to demonstrating<br />
what a few extra years of maturity can do. We already<br />
look forward to future vintages and acknowledge<br />
both the intellectual foresight and the<br />
flawlessness of the wine range that was presented<br />
across all price points with a fourth star.<br />
91 2019 Schloss Castell Weissburgunder tr.<br />
91 2017 »Granit« trocken<br />
90 2019 Castell Kugelspiel Silvaner<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
90 2019 Castell Hohnart Silvaner<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
90 2019 Schloss Castell Scheurebe trocken<br />
89 2019 Schloss Castell Silvaner trocken<br />
90 2015 »Cuvée C« trocken ME/CO/PN/CS<br />
90 2019 »Fürstin Marie-Louise«<br />
Weiss- und Grauburgunder trocken<br />
Hay and yeast, discreet flint, but also berryish Pinot notes.<br />
Supple on the palate, lots of juice, well-integrated acidity,<br />
a wine that is very clear in its aromas and structure, stylish,<br />
unaffected, and especially versatile in gastronomic<br />
terms. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
151
WEINGUT DAHMS<br />
August-Borsig-Strasse 8, 97526 Sennfeld<br />
T: +49 (9721) 69123, info@weingut-dahms.de<br />
www.weingut-dahms.de<br />
Cellar Door: ‘Weinladen – der Winzer Dahms‘,<br />
Brückenstrasse 23, 97421 Schweinfurt: Tuesdays<br />
though Fridays 10–18 hrs, Saturdays 10–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Jürgen Dahms<br />
Contact: Alexander and Jürgen Dahms<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 150,000 (85 % white, 15 % red)/10 ha<br />
A<br />
stylistic change is afoot at Weingut<br />
Dahms, run by third-generation winemakers<br />
Jürgen and Alexander Dahms<br />
in the Schweinfurt suburb of Sennfeld: some of<br />
the white wines are fermented on skins and<br />
matured in Halbstück barrels made from local<br />
Spessart oak. The wines are not as smoothed<br />
over as in the past but show profile and character,<br />
like their Silvaner “Fass No. 1”, or the<br />
well-integrated Weissburgunder “Fass No. 2”.<br />
Likewise, the impressive and elegant Spätburgunder<br />
presents itself at a high level. The<br />
“Domina”, meanwhile, brings plenty of joy<br />
with its direct and juicy nature. More please!<br />
91 2018 »Fass N°1« Silvaner trocken<br />
Nutty notes on the nose, apricot tart, toasted aromas, juniper<br />
berry and a slight ethereal tone. Firm in its structure,<br />
tightly built and also with good density from the wood ageing.<br />
The acidity is ripe and glides across the palate in a refined<br />
fashion with hints of pleasant saltiness.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
the fine acidity is well integrated. More Pinot Noir than Spätburgunder.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
88 2019 Silvaner trocken<br />
90 2018 »Fass N°2« Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Bright flowers on the nose, lily of the valley, apple, malt and<br />
smoky notes. Clearly defined and a firm structure due to the<br />
wood ageing, fine fruit and some sweet extract, well woven in<br />
its elements, well integrated acidity. Consistent and simultaneously<br />
elegant. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2018 Mainberg Schlossberg Silvaner<br />
Spätlese trocken<br />
Apple on the nose, apple peel, yeast, spice, herbs, some hops,<br />
malt and a hint of liquorice. On the palate there is juice, texture<br />
and pronounced fruitiness, powerful in structure and<br />
substance, also density, nice spice, consistent and with<br />
length. Good potential. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
91 2018 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Cherry, blackcurrant and bay leaf merge with the fine woody<br />
spice. This is juicy and shows good tension on the palate, density<br />
and texture, the tannins are concise and of good quality,<br />
89 2018 Domina trocken<br />
Dark colour, elderberry in the fruity nose, blackberry and<br />
also dark chocolate. Juicy and with clear fruit on the palate,<br />
elderberry notes again, also spicy and peppery notes,<br />
lean, firm construction, medium complexity and good traction.<br />
Straightforward character. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
152 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT FISCHER<br />
Franken | WINERIES<br />
Erweinstrasse 6, 97353 Wiesentheid<br />
T: +49 (9383) 377, post@fischer-wein.de<br />
www.fischer-wein.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 10–12 hrs and<br />
13.30–18 hrs, Saturdays 10–12 hrs and 13.30–16 hrs,<br />
Sundays 10–12.30 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Thomas Fischer<br />
Contact: The Fischer family<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 37,500 (85 % white, 15 % red)/6 ha<br />
For Thomas Fischer the wines he makes<br />
do not necessarily have to conform to<br />
the bone-dry ‘fränkisch trocken’ paradigm.<br />
In his skilled hands both Bacchus and<br />
Silvaner turn out well in medium-dry to noble<br />
sweet styles. The medium-sweet Bacchus Kabinett,<br />
for instance, is a great example of using<br />
residual sweetness to tease out the typically<br />
spicy varietal aromas. Yet the typical finesse of<br />
the Kabinett style is preserved. Nonetheless,<br />
our Falstaff Tip is a bone-dry wine: Fischer’s<br />
Rödelsee Schlossberg Silvaner shows its Keuper<br />
soil typicity with herbal savour and muscle<br />
– a truly versatile and gastronomic wine.<br />
90 2019 Kammerforst Teufel Bacchus<br />
Kabinett halbtrocken<br />
Water melon and honeydew melon on the nose. On the palate,<br />
the fine sweetness is noticeable at first, followed by<br />
notes of ripe gooseberry and melon. A pleasant density with<br />
good acidity and fine structure. 12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2019 Handthal Stollberg Bacchus Spätlese<br />
A beautiful first impression of melon, yellow apple and white<br />
flowers. On the palate then fine-tuned into a semi-dry manner,<br />
good sweetness-acidity interplay, with the sweetness<br />
lingering more. A juicy, fruity example of Bacchus with a nice<br />
flow and fine bouquet. 11,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2018 Kammerforst Teufel<br />
Gewürztraminer Spätlese trocken<br />
Surprisingly fine nose with tones of pink pepper and lychee.<br />
Then more rose on the palate with a medium body and wellintegrated,<br />
positively perceptible acidity. The flavours remain<br />
on the palate for a long time. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
88 2019 Rödelsee Schlossberg<br />
Silvaner Auslese<br />
Rich, clear yellow. On the nose beeswax and candied fruits,<br />
passion fruit and dried apricots. On the palate restrained<br />
acidity, noticeable sweetness, pear juice, mango, medium<br />
structure. Orange zest finish, great with sweet pastries.<br />
12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
88 2019 Oberschwarzach Herrenberg<br />
Silvaner Spätlese trocken<br />
88 2019 Rödelsee Schlossberg<br />
Riesling Kabinett trocken<br />
88 2019 Oberschwarzach Herrenberg<br />
Sauvignon Blanc Kabinett trocken<br />
87 2019 Weissburgunder Kabinett trocken<br />
86 2019 »Blanc de Noir« Spätburgunder<br />
Kabinett trocken<br />
86 2019 Scheurebe Kabinett trocken<br />
89 2018 Wiesenbronn Wachhügel Pinot Noir<br />
Spätlese trocken<br />
89 2019 Rödelsee Schlossberg Silvaner<br />
Kabinett trocken<br />
A clearly pronounced aroma - pear, herbs and delicate nutty<br />
aromas. Compact on the palate with a pleasant texture.<br />
Tones of brioche. Power and density make this Silvaner a<br />
pleasant food wine. 13,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
153
SCHLOSS FRANKENBERG<br />
Schloss Frankenberg 1, 97215 Weigenheim<br />
T: +49 (9339) 97140, info@schloss-frankenberg.com<br />
www.schloss-frankenberg.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Maximilian Czeppel<br />
Contact: Remo Letrari, Maximilian Czeppel<br />
Hectares: 20 ha<br />
Schloss Frankenberg is a rare treasure,<br />
not roused from its deep slumber until<br />
2014. Apparently an eight-figure sum<br />
was required to knock both the building and<br />
farmsteads back into shape. Vineyards and<br />
cellar, however, are already in working order<br />
and the most attractive debut wine range presented<br />
indeed proves the potential of the sites<br />
surrounding the Schloss. These wines were not<br />
made to look pretty in the short term but show<br />
a stylistically well-thought-out philosophy:<br />
bone-dry ‘fränkisch trocken’ with the accent<br />
on terroir.<br />
92 2019 »Selection Florian Löw« Riesling tr.<br />
Yeasty notes, bitter almond, dried flowers superseded by citrus<br />
fruits with air contact, bergamot and some flint. Discreetly<br />
phenolic on the palate, firm acidity, finely fruity without<br />
becoming unpleasantly overpowering. Persistent aromas<br />
and structure harmonise on the palate.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
88 2019 »Secco Selection Amalie Löw«<br />
feinherb<br />
91 2019 »Sylvaner Alte Reben« trocken<br />
Ripe, deep varietal aromas of earthy notes, sesame and valerian.<br />
Almost chalky in texture on the palate, with a fine,<br />
length-giving acid structure. A layer of mild phenolics and a<br />
compact, closed finish. Solid construction with excellent potential.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 Weissburgunder trocken<br />
White flowers, spring meadows and smoky terroir notes.<br />
Quite powerful on the palate, good volume, firm acidic backbone,<br />
quite dry but still pronounced in fruit. A gastronomic<br />
style of Pinot Blanc that will go well with poultry and fish.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 Roter Traminer trocken<br />
A very clear Gewürztraminer balancing fruit and spice.<br />
Scents of rose, pear and candied fruits. Full-bodied and supple<br />
on the palate, lively acidity, medium-weight extract, dry<br />
finish. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 Silvaner trocken<br />
Ample limestone on the nose. Restrained varietal spiciness<br />
with slight balsamic notes in the background. Supple<br />
and full on the palate with a firm acidic backbone and an<br />
appropriate dry balance. A hearty wine full of character.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
154 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Franken | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT RUDOLF FÜRST<br />
Hohenlindenweg 46, 63927 Bürgstadt<br />
T: +49 (9371) 8642, info@weingut-rudolf-fuerst.de<br />
www.weingut-rudolf-fuerst.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–12 hrs and<br />
14–17 hrs, Saturdays 10–15 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Sebastian Fürst<br />
Contact: Paul and Sebastian Fürst<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 120,000 (40 % white, 60 % red)/21 ha<br />
Our expectations were surpassed: with<br />
the Spätburgunders of the 2018 vintage<br />
Sebastian and Paul Fürst have accomplished<br />
a true feat. Their Grosses Gewächs from<br />
the Bürgstadter Hundsrück site is a wine that<br />
emblematically represents the high art of Pinot<br />
making in this subregion of Churfranken. We<br />
are certain that this Spätburgunder with its immense<br />
ageing potential will be talked about for<br />
a long time yet. It also demonstrates what we<br />
barely thought possible: that the Fürsts can<br />
raise their game even further. The other Pinots,<br />
likewise, are excellent and the white wines are<br />
as convincing in every respect. Magnificent!<br />
97 2018 Bürgstadt Hundsrück<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
In addition to fruit and spice, the dense nose already shows a<br />
lot of mineral momentum. On the palate, a lot of tension, texture<br />
and also elegance in an calm way with high mineral penetration,<br />
delicate and well-integrated acidic vein. Magnificent,<br />
also in terms of ageing potential. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
96 2018 Bürgstadt Centgrafenberg<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
A floral bouquet on the nose especially violets and croci, also<br />
hints of almonds, fine herbs and a whiff of smoke. Soft on the<br />
palate, with juicy acidity and delicate spice, but also increasing<br />
texture, density and tension with subsequent mineral underpinnings.<br />
A wine showing complexity, length and youth.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
95 2018 Klingenberg Schlossberg<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Rosehip, cherry and raspberry interlaced in a stony, mineral<br />
ambience with hints of herbs and smoke. Dense and tightly<br />
integrated on the palate, power, spice and intensity merge<br />
into an elegant base. Showing dynamism in an calm way with<br />
mineral nuances. Very skillful. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
94 2018 Bürgstadt Berg Spätburgunder<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
Intense nose of ripe cherry, raspberry, honeysuckle and fine<br />
toasted aromas. Ripe and intense tannins on the palate, perfect<br />
structure, medium body, lively acidity and again intense<br />
aromatics. Great finish. Approaches Grosses Gewächs status.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2019 Bürgstadt Centgrafenberg Riesling GG<br />
93 2018 »R« Chardonnay trocken<br />
92 2018 Astheim Chardonnay trocken<br />
92 2018 »R« Weissburgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 »pur mineral« Riesling trocken<br />
94 2018 Klingenberg Spätburgunder trocken<br />
93 2018 »R« Frühburgunder trocken<br />
92 2018 »Tradition« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Medium ruby. Defined nose of dark fruit, blackberry and<br />
blackcurrant. Intense red cherry and tomato leaf flavours<br />
on the palate, balanced by expressive acidity in a medium-bodied,<br />
mineral finish. 13 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
155
WEINGUT DR. HEIGEL<br />
Hassfurter Strasse 30, 97475 Zeil am Main<br />
T: +49 (9524) 3110, info@weingutdrheigel.de<br />
www.weingutdrheigel.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Philipp Wagner<br />
Contact: Christoph Hinderfeld<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 70,000 (60 % white, 40 % red)/10 ha<br />
Weingut Dr. Heigel presented a small<br />
but exquisite mix of its wines, encompassing<br />
the 2015 and 2018<br />
vintages, the 2019 vintage was not presented.<br />
All the wines are made in a sturdy fashion and<br />
show real substance. They provide food for<br />
culinary thoughts and inspire gastronomic<br />
flights of fancy. The powerful Merlot shows<br />
beautiful evolution that is yet to culminate; the<br />
Weissburgunder from the Hofstück site unites<br />
power and spice. The intense Gelber Muskateller<br />
is a powerful plea for the variety. We are<br />
more than curious and look forward to tasting<br />
the 2019 vintage.<br />
91 2015 Mainstockheim Hofstück<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Flowers on the nose, floral notes, yellow flowers, chestnuts,<br />
flour and delicately grilled leek. On the palate, power and<br />
spice unfold on a soft base, ripe and confident acidity, salty<br />
notes, seems vivid. Good potential for further maturity.<br />
14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
92 2015 Mainstockheim Hofstück<br />
Merlot trocken<br />
Sweet cherry and damp leaves, sage; a ripe varietal style<br />
with discreet woodiness. On the palate powerful with<br />
smooth foundations, but with a high tannins in the foreground,<br />
ripe acidity. A Merlot with a traditional artisan feel<br />
and further potential. 14,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
89 2018 Weissburgunder trocken<br />
90 2018 Silvaner trocken<br />
Apple and apple peel on the nose, herbs and spices like coriander<br />
seeds and floral scents. Powerful and compact Silvaner<br />
with spice and juice, the acidity is ripe and supportive, fine<br />
phenolics, shows provenance and profile. A Silvaner ideal for<br />
the table. 12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2018 Riesling trocken<br />
Intense nose of ripe yellow fruit, peach and also pineapple<br />
with spicy notes. The warm year also shows in the structure,<br />
powerfully and compactly built, shows juice, texture and fine<br />
spiciness with ripe acidity. Good length, pairs well with food.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2018 Mainstockheim Hofstück<br />
Gelber Muskateller trocken<br />
Powerful and varietal nose of yellow fruit and blade of<br />
mace, papaya, lychee and ripe gooseberry. Full-bodied and<br />
juicy with lots of spice and intensity on the palate, powerful<br />
structure, ripe acidity. Sommelier wine that awakens<br />
gastronomic fantasies. 13,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
156 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT HILLABRAND<br />
Franken | WINERIES<br />
Hüttenheim 96, 97348 Hüttenheim<br />
T: +49 (9326) 1765, info@weingut-hillabrand.de<br />
www.weingut-hillabrand.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Markus Hillabrand<br />
Contact: Markus Hillabrand<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 40,000 (80 % white, 20 % red)/9 ha<br />
You can rely on Markus Hillabrand: his<br />
wines are testament to skilful viticulture<br />
and solid winemaking. These<br />
wines are not showy and Hillabrand does not<br />
feel compelled to smooth out every last wrinkle.<br />
This predestines the wines for the table –<br />
and for the advanced wine drinker. Our favourite<br />
amongst the wines he presented this<br />
year is his Scheurebe from the Bullenheimer<br />
Paradies site – a wine that is more about site<br />
than about variety and that comes with real<br />
depth. For eight weeks each in spring and summer<br />
Hillebrand also pops up with his Heckenwirtschaft<br />
at the estate.<br />
92 2019 »Alte Reben« Bullenheim Paradies<br />
Scheurebe trocken<br />
Smoky, grapefruit, a very intense yet fresh varietal spiciness.<br />
Ripe acidity on the palate, noble extract and concentrated<br />
tactile minerality. A Scheurebe with considerable depth,<br />
length and great natural balance. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
with acidity well integrated into the body, and with a "cool",<br />
still closed finish. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 Hüttenheim Tannenberg<br />
Bacchus trocken<br />
91 2019 »Steiler Südhang« Hüttenheim<br />
Tannenberg Silvaner trocken<br />
Some beeswax, apple and herbal notes. Full-bodied, dry and<br />
rounded on the palate; straightforward, firm but ripe acidity.<br />
A powerful Silvaner where the balance comes from extract<br />
and minerality. Excellent ageing potential.<br />
14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 »Steiler Südhang« Hüttenheim<br />
Tannenberg Riesling trocken<br />
A Riesling fruit that starts out closed and gains more and<br />
more breadth and radiance in the glass, peach, pineapple,<br />
white redcurrant, yeasty notes and spicy aromas with a hint<br />
of beeswax. Full, almost bold on the palate, lots of substance,<br />
pithy acidity, mineral tones. 14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 »Steiler Südhang« Hüttenheim<br />
Tannenberg Scheurebe trocken<br />
A very clear fruit, candied pineapple, vine peach and medlar<br />
fruit. On the palate there is a fine flow, round and smooth,<br />
90 2019 Hüttenheim Tannenberg<br />
Goldmuskateller trocken<br />
Spicy aroma of nutmeg with some herbs in the background,<br />
flint, yeast, complex and quite intense, but not<br />
overbearing. On the palate a smooth onset, disciplined alcohol<br />
and quite dry, firm in acidity and rich in body.<br />
12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
157
STAATLICHER HOFKELLER<br />
WÜRZBURG<br />
Residenzplatz 3, 97070 Würzburg<br />
T: +49 (931) 3050923, hofkeller@hofkeller.bayern.de<br />
www.hofkeller.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–14 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Stefan Schäfer, Klaus Kuhn, Norbert Winkler<br />
Contact: Thilo Heuft<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 800,000 (87 % white, 13 % red)/120 ha<br />
Very gradually, showing off with the<br />
Staatlicher Hofkeller wines becomes a<br />
distinct possibility again. After several<br />
changes at the helm, this giant tanker is once<br />
again on a clearly defined course: aiming for the<br />
most direct route towards the kind of site expression<br />
that does justice to Franken’s diversity. Of<br />
course, with a harvest of 120 hectares you cannot<br />
perform as light-footedly as a fleet of tugboats in<br />
the harbour – but the wines from the cellar underneath<br />
the Würzburger Residenz certainly<br />
have enough mettle for a proper cruise on the river<br />
Main. New discoveries, like the Riesling from<br />
the Hörsteiner Abtsberg site, prove as much.<br />
92 2019 Würzburg Stein Riesling GG<br />
Closed in fragrance, slightly smoky, citrusy and herbaceous<br />
hints. On the palate powerful, dense, present but ripe acidity,<br />
rests well within itself, with nuanced extract, good composition<br />
and pleasant aromatic length. A fine spicy finish.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
92 2019 Würzburg Stein Silvaner GG<br />
Tannic apple on the nose, also pear and dried apricot, plus<br />
meadow herbs. Powerfully built. On the palate there is good<br />
substance and also extract, mild and restrained acidity, again<br />
ripe fruit and good spice. Consistent and coherent and could<br />
probably mature. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
91 2019 Würzburg Stein Weissburgunder GG<br />
Ripe mirabelle plums on the nose, floral notes, almonds,<br />
some mango and smoky notes. On the palate there is good<br />
substance, ripe acidity, medium complexity, somewhat vegetal,<br />
dry and coherently structured. Medium density and<br />
length. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
91 2018 Grossheubach Bischofsberg<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Herbs, morello and Amarena cherry, smoke and coffee notes.<br />
Substantial on the palate with good substance, also juice<br />
and texture, but also a dry with a purist focus; the tannins are<br />
strong and currently somewhat astringent. Still seems<br />
young, can mature. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2019 Würzburg Stein Riesling Erste Lage tr.<br />
91 2019 Würzburg Innere Leiste<br />
Silvaner Erste Lage trocken<br />
90 2019 Würzburg Innere Leiste<br />
Riesling Erste Lage trocken<br />
90 2019 Randersacker Pfülben Riesling GG<br />
89 2019 Würzburg Silvaner trocken<br />
89 2019 Würzburg Stein Weissburgunder<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
89 2019 Würzburg Stein Silvaner Erste Lage tr.<br />
90 2019 Hörstein Abtsberg Riesling<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
Closed fragrance albeit slight scents of lemon balm, peach<br />
stone and some mineral and fiery undertones. Firm onset<br />
with good density, pithy acidity. A hearty very dry Riesling<br />
that shows the minerality of the Hörsteiner vineyards.<br />
13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
158 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINBAU HOFMANN<br />
Franken | WINERIES<br />
Schulgasse 2, 97355 Wiesenbronn<br />
T: +49 (9325) 6871, info@weinbau-hofmann.de<br />
www.weinbau-hofmann.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Saturdays 8–19 hrs,<br />
Sundays 9–12 and 13–18 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Mario Hofmann<br />
Contact: The Hofmann family<br />
Hectares: 3 ha<br />
Who would have thought that the<br />
beautiful village of Wiesenbrunn<br />
can bring forth such great Grauburgunder?<br />
Mario Hofmann crafted it in vineyard<br />
and cellar into a berry-ish varietal type,<br />
showing its Pinot-genes while nonetheless carring<br />
quite a bit of its Steigerwald subregion<br />
typicity. We also loved the Silvaner “1712”<br />
whose name recalls the founding year of this estate<br />
while presenting itself in a vivid and contemporary<br />
style. We doubt that previous generations<br />
were able to make Spätburgunder quite<br />
like this full-bodied example from 2015 – but at<br />
least there is one upside to global warming.<br />
90 2019 Wiesenbronn Geisberg Grauer<br />
Burgunder Spätlese trocken<br />
Light golden in colour. Quite clear on the nose, berry aromas,<br />
quince, blueberry and butterscotch. Corpulent palate, lively<br />
acidity, quite dry; the strong alcohol is seamlessly covered by<br />
extract. A sturdy varietal style. 14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
88 2016 Wiesenbronn Wachhügel<br />
Blauburger trocken<br />
90 2019 »anno 1712« Silvaner trocken<br />
Ripe banana, hazelnut, Turkish delight and with a little more<br />
air increasingly herbaceous. Powerful on the palate, firm<br />
acidity, full-bodied, still closed, but with a clear mineral<br />
background and good substance. A sturdy construction.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2015 »Weinart« Pinot Noir trocken<br />
A scent of milk chocolate, cranberry and fig compote. On the<br />
palate there are grainy tannins thatare only just beginning to<br />
mellow, with powerful alcohol and well-integrated acidity.<br />
Good tactile mineral components, underlying juiciness.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 Silvaner Auslese<br />
Fresh and herbaceous on the nose, with mirabelle plums,<br />
ripe yellow fruit without too much botrytis. On the palate<br />
there is good sweetness-acidity interplay, vintage-typical<br />
nerve meets lovely creaminess. All is accompanied by good<br />
substance, not an overloaded Auslese.<br />
11,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 »Sommerfrischler« Riesling<br />
Kabinett trocken<br />
Fragrant, notes of peach stones and fresh citrus zest with a<br />
balsamic herbal spiciness. On the palate, light-bodied,<br />
juicy, fine-nerved acidity and quite obvious sweetness. A<br />
sophisticated summer wine that will also refresh in winter.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
159
WEINGUT HULLER<br />
Maintalstrasse 11, 97855 Homburg am Main<br />
T: +49 (9395) 780 95 20, info@weingut-huller.de<br />
www.weingut-huller.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays 13–18 hrs<br />
and by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Michael Huller<br />
Contact: Isabella and Michael Huller<br />
Hectares: 8 ha<br />
It was in 2010 that Michael Huller fulfilled<br />
his dream of running his own wine estate<br />
in his home village of Homburg. Together<br />
with his wife Isabella and a whole lot of enthusiasm<br />
and elbow grease, Huller converted an<br />
old farmstead with a barn into a winery. He<br />
also managed to extend his vineyard holdings<br />
to eight hectares. In these wines you can taste<br />
a love for detail, for Franken’s traditions as<br />
well as the international experience which<br />
both he and his wife acquired in a most diverse<br />
manner. Apart from tastings, the couple also<br />
offer wine experiences of various kinds on<br />
their cultural stage, a performance space.<br />
89 2018 »Alte Reben« Homburg Kallmuth<br />
Silvaner Spätlese trocken<br />
Light citrus green in the glass, cool on the nose, almost iodine<br />
and reminiscent of sea breezes. Fresh on the palate but<br />
also supple, creamy too with a juiciness that resonates.<br />
Cheerful with a delicate finish. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
88 2019 Spätburgunder Rosé trocken<br />
89 2018 »Alma Blanc de Noir«<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Beautiful straw-yellow colour, cool fragrant nose, white berries.<br />
On the palate the harmony between acidity and fruit initially<br />
impresses with a slight residual sweetness. Ideal with<br />
food. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
88 2019 Homburg Kallmuth<br />
Weissburgunder Kabinett trocken<br />
Delicately pale wine, fresh herbal nose, also notes of quince.<br />
Soft and harmonious on the palate, juicy, a fine sweetness on<br />
the finish, uncomplicated and well balanced.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2018 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Flows into the glass with a dark garnet red hue. Berry and<br />
spicy nose with notes of allspice, pepper and hay. On the<br />
palate red fruits, some leather, delicate tannins, winning<br />
freshness plus a long, juicy finish.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2017 »Luna« Homburg Kallmuth<br />
Silvaner trocken<br />
Flows golden yellow and almost viscous into the glass with<br />
smoky nuances and ripe stone fruit on the nose; deliciously<br />
fresh. On the palate there is a plump depth, while juicy<br />
acidity increases the flow and lets the wine linger for a<br />
long time. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
160 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Franken | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT JULIUSSPITAL<br />
Klinikstrasse 1, 97070 Würzburg<br />
T: +49 (931) 3931400, weingut@juliusspital.de<br />
www.juliusspital-weingut.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9.30–18.30 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 9–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Nicolas Frauer<br />
Contact: Kordula Geier<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 1,300,000 (86 % white, 14 % red)/180 ha<br />
The wine estate of this ancient charitable<br />
foundation counts amongst the best and<br />
largest in Franken. For years, the vineyards<br />
have been subject to soft pruning, a practice<br />
that paid off particularly in dry years – as<br />
has the careful yield management that includes<br />
bunch-halving and green harvesting. Spontaneous<br />
ferments play an increasing role in the cellar,<br />
especially for Erste Lagen and Grosse Gewächse.<br />
But things are also happening outside wine: a<br />
new website, for instance. Once again these<br />
wines were outstanding: the top Silvaners are<br />
complex and show great potential – the Rieslings<br />
are more than snapping at their heels.<br />
94 2018 Würzburg Stein Silvaner GG<br />
Alluring, delicate light green colour in the glass. Initial scents<br />
are beautifully herbal, almost Mediterranean with hints of<br />
bread crust and lilacs; immensely complex on the nose, which<br />
continues wonderfully on the palate! A beautifully wine that<br />
will continue to mature. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
94 2018 Würzburg Stein Riesling GG<br />
Pale straw yellow colour. Cool nose, delicate floral scents<br />
paired with stone fruit and delicate spicy notes of anise and<br />
butcher's broom, also fresh hay. On the palate texture and<br />
fine creaminess, simultaneously balanced with fresh acidity<br />
and immense juciness. Very long finish, skilful!<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
92 2018 Iphofen Julius-Echter-Berg Silvaner GG<br />
Pale straw yellow with delicate green reflections in the<br />
glass. Very mineral nose, also hints of flint, smoke and iodine,<br />
powerful. On the palate there is positive drive, smoky and<br />
long-lasting acidity, extraordinarily animating and still immensely<br />
youthful. Pairs well with food and has ageing potential.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
96 2018 Randersacker Pfülben Rieslaner<br />
Trockenbeerenauslese<br />
Golden with greenish reflections. Incense, limestone spice,<br />
lilac, flax with complex floral and exotic notes. On the palate<br />
there is enormous tension, tangy acidity, buffered with fruitborne<br />
sweetness. Clarity in all components.<br />
7 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€€<br />
92 2019 Würzburg Stein Riesling<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
90 2018 Volkacher Karthäuser<br />
Weissburgunder GG<br />
90 2019 Würzburg Stein Weissburgunder<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
89 2018 Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
89 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 Silvaner trocken<br />
88 2019 Würzburg Silvaner trocken<br />
90 2019 Iphofen Kronsberg Silvaner<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
Striking green-golden reflections in the glass. Delicate, almost<br />
herbal nose, mirabelle plums and mimosa. Pleasant<br />
juicy flow on the palate, well embedded acidity, fine<br />
creamy mouthfeel and a refreshingly long finish.<br />
13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
161
BIO-WEINGUT LAUDENS BACH<br />
Segnitzerstrasse 35, 97252 Frickenhausen am Main<br />
T: +49 (9331) 3286, wein@laudensbach.de<br />
www.laudensbach.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Stefanie Fröhlich<br />
Contact: Reiner and Rolf Laudenbach<br />
Hectares: 4 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
Brothers Reiner and Rolf Laudenbach<br />
are behind this organic-estate in Frickenhausen.<br />
One of them is an entrepreneur<br />
in Hessen, the other is mayor, architect<br />
and a manufacturer of cooling systems. “After<br />
we shared pretty much everything when we<br />
were kids,” they report, “we are once again in<br />
the sandpit together, it’s slightly bigger this<br />
time: it’s in the vineyard.” Stefanie Fröhlich, estate<br />
manager and winemaker, knows her stuff:<br />
all the wines taste fresh-faced and are not at all<br />
contrived – the calmness of her Weissburgunder<br />
and the juiciness of her Silvaner speak for<br />
themselves. Absolutely convincing!<br />
91 2019 »Flurstück« Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Spicy and floral notes on the nose, some leafy greens, greenhouse<br />
aromas, mirabelle plums, yellow apple and spices.<br />
Natural and calm on the palate, juicy and a soft acidity flows<br />
into the compact texture; finely intergrated. Citrus fruit and<br />
mineral finish. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
91 2019 »Flurstück Alte Rebe«<br />
Silvaner trocken<br />
Needs some air contact to open up, subsequent aromas of<br />
herbal spice, flowers, apple and some yeast emerge. On the<br />
palate concentrated in an elegant and juicy way, ripe apple,<br />
soft and also juicy acidity, clear fruit expression. Spicy and<br />
unembellished, yet elegant and profound.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 »Flurstück« Riesling trocken<br />
Dense and spicy nose with yellow stone fruit, ripe apricot,<br />
also floral notes of elderflower. Powerful and taut on the palate,<br />
juicy and spicy with ripe citrus fruit; ripe acidity, salty,<br />
mineral grip, with style and character.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 »Flurstück« Blauer Silvaner trocken<br />
Ripe mirabelle plums, apple and pear on the nose, herbal<br />
notes, apple peel and fine caraway. Blue Silvaner that<br />
shows off its components; lots of juice, creamy acidity,<br />
herbal spiciness and a sense of style. Powerful structure<br />
that immediately evokes gastronomic tendencies.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
162 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
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<br />
WEINGUT FÜRST LÖWENSTEIN<br />
Schlosspark 3, 63924 Kleinheubach<br />
T: +49 (9371) 9486600, weingut@loewenstein.de<br />
www.loewenstein.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Peter Arnold<br />
Contact: Andrea Paul<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 100,000 (80 % white, 20 % red)/22 ha<br />
Even if the Grosse Gewächse were not<br />
submitted for tasting, the current releases<br />
of this princely estate leave a very<br />
good impression. The majestic vineyard site of<br />
the Homburger Kallmuth with its steep terraces,<br />
dropping sharply to the bank of the river<br />
Main, are diverse enough to allow for at least<br />
two stylistic directions: one taut, focussed on<br />
minerality as expressed in the “Erste Lagen”<br />
wines, the other opulent, full-fruited in the<br />
late-harvest-like “S”-series. These wines are<br />
object lessons in natural history and not at all<br />
boring.<br />
91 2019 Homburg Kallmuth Silvaner<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
Finely spicy, clearly terroir-influenced on the nose with balsamic<br />
undertones and notes of crushed rock. Straightforward<br />
on the palate, good extract, a delicate layer of phenolics,<br />
a hint of pronounced fruitiness, overall rather reductive.<br />
Ideal for a medium ageing period. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 »Genuss« Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
91 2015 »S« Homburg Kallmuth Silvaner tr.<br />
Rich yellow colour. Candied peach, ginger and valerian on the<br />
nose, some evolution. On the palate luscious texture and<br />
suppleness, quite seamlessly round, ripe acidity, concentrated<br />
palate flavours. A full-throttle Silvaner that can take on<br />
spicy sauces. 14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 »S« Homburg Kallmuth Silvaner tr.<br />
Candied pineapple, highly ripe yellow fruit, also still somewhat<br />
primary. Plump and full on the palate, almost a little viscous,<br />
strong alcohol, ripe acidity, almost an Auslese style. Powerful<br />
and fruity, will need some time. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 »R« Homburg Kallmuth Riesling tr.<br />
Closed on the nose with some yellow fruit and smoky-chalky<br />
undertones. On the palate silky and poised, a dry Spätlese<br />
style with emphasis on the fruit, lively acidity and a hint of<br />
sweetness interplay around each other. Will be very accessible<br />
with bottle age. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
91 2019 Homburg Kallmuth Riesling<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
Closed in the fragrance, a little grapey and bergamot<br />
notes. On the palate, a smooth start, then becomes densely<br />
rich, still very compact and completely introverted, harbours<br />
loads of extract under its seemingly unapproachable<br />
shell - but the depth is recognisable!<br />
13,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
163
WEINGUT RUDOLF MAY<br />
Im Eberstal 1, 97282 Retzstadt<br />
T: +49 (9364) 5760, info@weingut-may.de<br />
www.weingut-may.de<br />
Cellar Door: Saturdays 10–15 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Rudolf May<br />
Contact: Petra May<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 87,000 (88 % white, 12 % red)/15 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
Rudolf May presented a whole phalanx<br />
of unique Silvaners which only cement<br />
his status as one of Franken’s best and<br />
foremost winemakers. What he manages to<br />
pack into his Erste Lage wine from the<br />
Retzstadter Langenberg in terms of density<br />
and mineral verve, others do not even deliver<br />
in their Grosse Gewächse. Both of his<br />
“Schäfer” wines are still characterised by their<br />
maturation in wood, both have model character<br />
in this genre. Both Grosse Gewächse meet<br />
the highest of standards in terms of site expression,<br />
extract and minerality. The top wine in<br />
every respect is “Himmelspfad.” Masterful.<br />
95 2019 Retzstadt Himmelspfad Silvaner GG<br />
Smoky aromas, pear and quince, toasty notes and herbs on the<br />
nose. Powerful and firmly structured on the palate, good volume<br />
enriched with extract, dense and consistent, phenolic and<br />
with notes of limestone. Showing complexity, a multi-layered,<br />
long-lasting and genuine wine 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
builds up on the palate, juicy, compact and with tension, traction<br />
and minerality; still seems a bit austere and young. Good<br />
qualities, performs well. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
92 2019 Stetten Rossthalberg Silvaner<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
94 2019 Thüngersheim Rothlauf Silvaner GG<br />
Chestnut and bread crust on the nose, followed by floral notes -<br />
lavender and hints of apple and pear. On the palate there is precisely<br />
assessed power and good density, shows substance, manages<br />
the balance between power and texture, juice and extract,<br />
wich sets a long perspective. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
93 2018 »Reserve« Retzstadt Der Schäfer<br />
Silvaner Erste Lage trocken<br />
Fine smoke and vanilla on the nose, a harmonious duet of<br />
pear and quince and dark spices followed by hints of black<br />
tea. On the palate there is substance and a powerful construction,<br />
dense and substantial; generous with juice and<br />
texture, with pronounced minerality mid-palate. At the start<br />
of its development. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
92 2019 Retzstadt Der Schäfer Silvaner<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
A floral bouquet followed by apple, yellow fruit especially<br />
yellow apple, smoke and a hint of vanilla. Firm structure<br />
92 2019 Retzstadt Langenberg Silvaner<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
Multi-layered nose showing ripe pear, sunflowers, rapeseed<br />
blossoms, quince and also dark aromas. Initially<br />
shows striking saltiness on the palate, ripe acidity and citrus<br />
fruit juice, dry and almost provocative minerality. It will<br />
evolve. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
164 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
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<br />
WEINGUT MEIER SCHMIDT<br />
Ulsenheim 114, 91478 Ulsenheim<br />
T: +49 (9842) 2479, weingut@meier-schmidt.de<br />
www.meier-schmidt.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 13–19 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–18 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Markus Meier, Lukas Schmidt, Oliver Six<br />
Contact: Markus Meier and Lukas Schmidt<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 240,000 (90 % white, 10 % red)/35 ha<br />
Weingut Meier Schmidt, which was<br />
not created until March 2019 by<br />
the merging of the estates Meier in<br />
Ulsenheim and Schmidt in Bullenheim, is going<br />
full throttle: we tasted through their range and<br />
could not find fault, each wine shows character<br />
and profile. The textured and mineral Silvaner<br />
Grosses Gewächs from the Escherndorfer<br />
Lump site stands like an illustration of their development.<br />
When it comes to noble sweet<br />
wines, it is the exquisitely balanced Rieslaner-Beerenauslese<br />
that shines. The winery also is<br />
a member estate of the Ethos Association,<br />
promulgating winemaking with attitude.<br />
92 2018 »Grosses Gewächs« Escherndorf<br />
Lump Silvaner trocken<br />
Deep yellow in the glass, yellow fruit and vegetal notes, hints of<br />
pea shoots, fresh bay leaves and fine spice. On the palate taut<br />
with traction, ripe apricot, orange, passion fruit enhancing the<br />
juicy acidity. Powerful and firmly structured with a mineral base.<br />
Powerful spiciness, good length. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
92 2018 »Grosses Gewächs« Sommerhausen<br />
Steinbach Riesling trocken<br />
Ripe stone fruit on the nose, peach, some mango and papaya,<br />
also a slight hint of petrol. Well and coherently built on the<br />
palate, good substance, density and charm, fine smoke,<br />
spice, minerality and ripe acidity. Long finish and with potential<br />
for further maturation. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
91 2017 »Grosses Gewächs« Sommerhausen<br />
Steinbach Chardonnay trocken<br />
Powerful nose with strong woody aromas, supported by vanilla,<br />
ripe melon and pear and also a dash of incense. Smooth and soft<br />
onset to the palate with added spice and also sharpness. Power<br />
and alcohol are well integrated; has international flair not necessarily<br />
Franconian, good potential. 14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
93 2019 Sommerhausen Steinbach<br />
Rieslaner Beerenauslese<br />
Rich, clear yellow hue. Piquant spiciness and ripe citrus fruit<br />
on the nose, in addition to nuances of dried stone fruit. On the<br />
palate blossom honey, candied orange and lemon, nutty, fine<br />
acidity and enormous pull, yet balanced. Long, spicy finish<br />
with lots of potential. 6,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
91 2018 »Grosses Gewächs« Sommerhausen<br />
Reifenstein Weissburgunder trocken<br />
90 2019 »Aus dem Paradies« Sauvignon Blanc tr.<br />
90 2019 Sommerhausen Steinbach Riesling tr.<br />
89 2019 Sommerhausen Reifenstein<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 Bullenheim Paradies Scheurebe tr.<br />
91 2018 »Grosses Gewächs« Frankenberg<br />
Schlossstück Cabernet Dorsa trocken<br />
90 2019 Sommerhausen Reifenstein<br />
Traminer Spätlese<br />
90 2019 Marktbreit Sonnenberg Silvaner tr.<br />
Apple and pear on the nose, also pear peel, meadow herbs<br />
and banana skin. Full-bodied and spicy on the palate, the<br />
acidity is ripe and well integrated, dry in expression and unembellished<br />
with fine mineral underpinnings. Good substance,<br />
shows character. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
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165
MATHIAS MEIMBERG<br />
Ahlintel 51, 48282 Emsdetten<br />
T: +49 (175) 8225394, info@weinkellerei-meimberg.de<br />
www.weinkellerei-meimberg.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Mathias Meimberg<br />
Contact: Mathias Meimberg<br />
Hectares: 3 ha<br />
Mathias Meimberg runs two winemaking<br />
projects in Franken: Weinhaus<br />
Boessneck in Iphofen and the<br />
2013-founded Weinkellerei Meimberg. The<br />
young winemaker farms three hectares altogether,<br />
stretching from Escherndorf via<br />
Wiesenbronn all the way to Iphofen. The<br />
wines do sometimes show a hearty character<br />
and are thus perfect for more rustic dishes.<br />
Since Meimberg hails from a Westphalian<br />
family, he decided to live in Emsdetten in the<br />
Münsterland – this is where he runs a wine bistro<br />
called “Das Meimbergs” where his wines<br />
are served.<br />
89 2018 »aus der Perle« Wiesenbronn<br />
Wachhügel Silvaner trocken<br />
Smoky nose with notes of chestnut, walnut, roasted coffee<br />
beans, pear and quince. Powerfully structured and demanding<br />
on the palate, suitably dry, no residual sweetness, firm in<br />
structure, good use of wood, ripe acidity and salty notes. Still<br />
slightly astringent. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
88 2019 Escherndorf Fürstenberg Silvaner tr.<br />
Pear, pear skin and quince on the nose, herb garden notes<br />
and spice, ethereal. Juicy on the palate with soft acidity,<br />
some sweetness, also a mineral tone; good substance, spice,<br />
also rustic notes. Shows provenance in a tangible way, ideal<br />
with food. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2018 Müller-Thurgau Auslese<br />
Rich, clear yellow in appearance. On the nose sultana, nutmeg,<br />
apricot jam, candied orange. Dense on the palate, lush<br />
sweetness, full body and texture, rather restrained acidity.<br />
Apricot notes reappear with dried fruit. Well structured, medium<br />
length. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
89 2019 Riesling Auslese<br />
Rich yellow appearance. On the nose concentrated citrus fruit,<br />
lemon balm, mint, hot stone, some smoke. Tight acidity on the<br />
palate, lots of citrus fruit, some smoke, spice, demanding on the<br />
palate. Well-structured and unique. 14,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
86 2019 Wiesenbronn Wachhügel<br />
Silvaner trocken<br />
86 2019 »Secco Somi« halbtrocken<br />
88 2019 Rotling Rosé trocken<br />
86 2019 »Secco Somi Pink« halbtrocken<br />
88 2018 »Hektor MMXVII« Wiesenbronn<br />
Wachhügel Portugieser trocken<br />
89 2019 Müller-Thurgau trocken<br />
Intense aroma of ripe apple and meadow herbs, also mirabelle<br />
plums, floral notes and spices. Self-confident, powerfully<br />
built Müller-Thurgau that is not ungenerous: juicy,<br />
with lots of spice and fine sweetness; has enough substance<br />
to accompany hearty Franconian dishes.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%, glass, €<br />
166 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
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<br />
WEINGUT MEINTZINGER<br />
Babenbergplatz 4, 97252 Frickenhausen<br />
T: +49 (9331) 87110, info@weingut-meintzinger.de<br />
www.weingut-meintzinger.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–22 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 9–20 hrs, Sundays 10–20 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Jochen Meintzinger<br />
Contact: Jochen Meintzinger<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 280,000 (80 % white, 20 % red)/35 ha<br />
The Meintzinger family not only runs a<br />
winery but also a hotel, housed in a historic<br />
country house dating back to<br />
1475. The country house once served as episcopal<br />
summer residence – they always knew<br />
the particularly choice spots. Winemaker<br />
Jochen Meintzinger clearly commits himself<br />
to Silvaner and dedicates much attention to it<br />
– including different ways of vinification. He<br />
also has talent for Riesling: his “Süd-Süd”<br />
Riesling from the Kapellenberg shines with<br />
fine acidity and beautiful balance. We were<br />
also intrigued by the aromatic red made from<br />
the robust Domina-variety.<br />
90 2018 »Süd-Süd« Frickenhausen<br />
Kapellenberg Riesling trocken<br />
Pale golden yellow. Intense scents of ripe peach, apricot,<br />
lemon zest and jasmine. On the palate, a well-balanced medium<br />
body and animating acidity, which balances the clear<br />
extract so very well. Good length. 14,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2018 »Noch Fragen« Silvaner trocken<br />
Medium lemon yellow in appearance. Fine fragrance of ripe<br />
peach, mandarine blossom, passion fruit and a whiff of wet<br />
stone. On the palate a very racy acidity, precise fruit aromas,<br />
again of peach. Robust body with fine texture and a good<br />
length. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
90 2017 »Novemberlese I« Frickenhausen<br />
Kapellenberg Silvaner trocken<br />
Golden yellow in appearance. Scents of vanilla, honey, very<br />
ripe peach and blackcurrant leaf on palate and nose, respectively.<br />
These intense flavours are accompanied by a full body,<br />
good phenolics, texture. Well balanced acidity with tension<br />
delivering a long velvety finish. For power fans.<br />
15 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
90 2018 »Süd-Süd« Frickenhausen<br />
Kapellenberg Domina trocken<br />
Medium purple in the glass. On the nose scents of ripe plum,<br />
cooked blackberry and a hint of smoke. On the palate medium<br />
acidity, moderate tannins, medium body, invigorating<br />
acidity with nuances of cherry and dark chocolate. Good<br />
length. Well done. 14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 »Süd-Süd« Würzburg Stein Silvaner tr.<br />
90 2019 Frickenhausen Grauburgunder tr.<br />
89 2019 Frickenhausen Silvaner trocken<br />
89 2019 Frickenhausen Weissburgunder tr.<br />
89 2019 Frickenhausen Blauer Silvaner tr.<br />
88 2019 »Weiss« Weissburgunder trocken<br />
88 2019 »Mein'z« Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 Frickenhausen Riesling feinherb<br />
Medium golden yellow hues. On the nose a scent of green<br />
apple with citrus notes of lime, lemon and grapefruit. On<br />
the palate there is lively acidity with flavours of apple,<br />
grapefruit as well as mango, melon and passion fruit - all<br />
integrated and well balanced. Elegant, ideal for immediate<br />
enjoyment. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
167
WEINGUT EWALD NEDER<br />
Urbanusweg 5-9, 97729 Ramsthal<br />
T: +49 (9704) 5692, wein@weingut-neder.de<br />
www.weingut-neder.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 14–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 9–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Lorenz Neder<br />
Contact: Ewald Neder<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 50,000 (85 % white, 15 % red)/11 ha<br />
It is in Ramsthal, in Franken’s far north, that<br />
the Neder family cultivates eleven hectares<br />
of vineyards, almost all of them on steep<br />
sites. “Wine has to be alive and should be allowed<br />
to show a little profile, a little bite,” says<br />
cellar master Lorenz Neder and admirably puts<br />
his words into practice accordingly. His wines<br />
are without affectation, are artisanal and have a<br />
purist character. Just like his Silvaner “Ethos-<br />
Klassik”, all the wines are convincing. Neder<br />
also is a member of the Ethos Association, a<br />
group of young winemakers that advocate an<br />
environmentally more conscious viticulture.<br />
Note that there also is a wine shop at the estate.<br />
90 2018 Ramsthal St. Klausen Am Urban<br />
Silvaner trocken<br />
Opulent, powerful nose with ripe apples, apple peel, cider,<br />
smoke, herbs and a dash of rosehip. On the palate, soft and<br />
supple with ample texture and also some sweetness, shows<br />
power and force enhanced by well integrated alcohol. A savoury<br />
wine in a rather baroque style. 14,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2018 Ramsthal St. Klausen<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Ripe citrus fruit and acacia blossom on the nose subsequent<br />
aromas of mirabelle plum and ripe apple. Powerfully composed<br />
and with ripe acidity on the palate, tones of fine spice<br />
as well as slight piquancy that sets fresh accents. Good substance,<br />
medium complexity, enticing with food.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 Westheim Längberg Bacchus feinherb<br />
90 2016 Ramsthal St. Klausen<br />
Weissburgunder Barrique trocken<br />
Fragrant toasty aromas of barrique followed swiftly through<br />
to ripe yellow fruit. On the palate there is power and also<br />
force unfolding against a smooth background with some<br />
spicy and stringent tones and dashes of greenish notes.<br />
Youthful. 14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2018 Wirmsthal Scheinberg Silvaner tr.<br />
On the nose, herbal notes followed by apple peel, malt, some<br />
caraway and yeast. Lean and taut on the palate, befittingly<br />
dry with good substance, juicy and texture with vital acidity<br />
and a decent mineral vein. Unpretentious, with inner values.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
91 2019 »Ethos Klassik« Silvaner trocken<br />
Herbal nose supported by scents of apple, blossoms, flower<br />
meadows, fine malt and mineral hints. Lean and<br />
straightforward on the palate, dense and with substance,<br />
emphatically dry and subsequently natural flanked by<br />
herbal notes and apple tones. Fine phenolics. Unembellished<br />
- pure Silvaner. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
168 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT NEUBERGER<br />
Franken | WINERIES<br />
Freudenbergerstrasse 7, 63927 Bürgstadt<br />
T: +49 (9371) 2562, info@weingut-neuberger.de<br />
www.weingut-neuberger.de<br />
Cellar Door: Tuesdays through Fridays 9–12 hrs and<br />
14–18.30 hrs, Saturdays 9–15 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Burkhard and Lukas Neuberger<br />
Contact: Burkhard Neuberger<br />
Hectares: 10 ha<br />
Weingut Neuberger is located in<br />
Bürgstadt in the subregion of Churfranken<br />
and cultivates approximately<br />
ten hectares of vineyards in the Centgrafenberg<br />
und Hundsrück sites. About half are<br />
planted to red varieties with Spätburgunder in<br />
the leading role. Burkhard Neuberger and his<br />
son Lukas vinify their estate and village wines<br />
in stainless steel while single site wines are matured<br />
in barrique and Halbstück barrels fashioned<br />
from local Spessart oak. Their Spät- and<br />
Frühburgunders show complexity and terroir,<br />
their Silvaner is juicy and herbal. You get a lot of<br />
bang for your buck here.<br />
89 2017 »Halbstück« Bürgstadt<br />
Centgrafenberg Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Melon on the nose followed by juicy apple, smoky aromas, floral<br />
scents and hazelnut. Powerfully built on the palate, firm structure<br />
from the wood ageing, creamy and with substance; the discreet<br />
sweetness is well integrated flanked by a ripe and supporting<br />
acid structure. Gastronomic Pinot. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2017 Bürgstadt Centgrafenberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Full aromatic nose, Amarena cherry, pleasant Pinot spice,<br />
some cinnamon and also a hint of smoke. Powerfully structured<br />
against a soft background, spicy and smoky, strong tannins,<br />
still a bit drying but with lots of substance and power. A<br />
Pinot Noir that can mature, ideal with food.<br />
14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
88 2019 Bürgstadt Centgrafenberg Muscaris<br />
91 2015 Bürgstadt Hundsrück Spätburgunder tr.<br />
Woody notes and also hints from the Bürgstadter Hundsrück<br />
site on the nose followed by cassis, blood orange, rosehip and<br />
cranberry. Mineral foundations and power on a soft base, medium<br />
density and substance with great intensity on the midpalate.<br />
Long finish with good ageing potential.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2018 Bürgstadt Centgrafenberg<br />
Frühburgunder trocken<br />
Delightful fruity nose, sour cherry, redcurrant , blackberry,<br />
spice, some pepper and a whiff of smoke. Soft and spicy on<br />
the palate, ripe, yet concise tannins, elegant, with fine acidity<br />
and also minerality. Coherent structure, will continue to mature.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 Bürgstadt Silvaner trocken<br />
Ripe apple on the nose with subsequent scents of pear, yellow<br />
fruit, hay flowers and meadow herbs. On the palate<br />
juicy, with clear fruit and texture, slender construction, befittingly<br />
dry and honest, good flow. Herbaceous on the finish.<br />
Drink by itself or as a food accompaniment.<br />
12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
169
WEINGUT AM ÖLSPIEL<br />
Schleifweg 13, 97286 Sommerhausen<br />
T: +49 (9333) 221, info@weingut-am-oelspiel.de<br />
www.weingut-am-ölspiel.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Christian Schwarz<br />
Contact: Reinhold Schwarz<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 55,000 (80 % white, 20 % red)/8 ha<br />
The Weingut am Ölspiel, where three<br />
generations live and work together, has<br />
cultivated the best steep sites of Sommerhausen<br />
for centuries. The estate lies at the<br />
foot of the Ölspiel site whose Triassic limestone<br />
soils characterise the wines. “We only<br />
use grapes that were cultivated with the greatest<br />
artisanal care and the utmost respect for<br />
nature,” the Schwarz family tells us. All the<br />
wines convince with their balanced, freshfaced<br />
nature and they are happy for any visitors<br />
to pop by unannounced: “Someone is always<br />
at home,” – that’s just the way of life for<br />
this winemaking family.<br />
90 2018 Sommerhausen Ölspiel<br />
Silvaner Spätlese trocken<br />
Powerful and properly dry Spätlese that smells of apple and yellow<br />
flowers. The warm 2018 shows itself with good substance<br />
and also force on the palate where juice and texture meet, accompanied<br />
by spicy herbal notes. Harmonious in its opulence.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
spice and alcohol which is well integrated. Combines softness,<br />
opulence, power and spice; good substance that will<br />
evolve. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
88 2019 Sommerhausen Ölspiel<br />
Riesling Kabinett trocken<br />
90 2018 Sommerhausen Ölspiel<br />
Weissburgunder Spätlese trocken<br />
Yellow blossom on the nose, ripe apricot, orange zest and<br />
smoky notes. On the palate there is power and texture, broadly<br />
laid out with firm structure, substance and a soft base, fine<br />
spice too. Shows consistency, length and also charm, good potential<br />
for further maturation. 14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 Sommerhausen Ölspiel<br />
Scheurebe Spätlese feinherb<br />
Grapefruit, white currants, yeast and dried orange peel on the<br />
nose. Lots of volume on the palate, taut acidity, not too generously<br />
dimensioned in the sweetness, strong tactile mineral<br />
notes, fruit-borne, citrus finish. 12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
91 2015 Sommerhausen Ölspiel<br />
Frühburgunder Auslese trocken<br />
Intense and spicy nose, toasted aromas, coffee, black cherry,<br />
also plum and herb garden; the palate, likewise, is intense in<br />
89 2019 Sommerhausen Ölspiel<br />
Scheurebe Kabinett trocken<br />
Beautiful varietal aroma of ripe gooseberry, mirabelle<br />
plum, yellow apple and yellow flowers with some herbal<br />
hints. On the palate there is clear, pure fruit, juicy and emphatically<br />
dry, slender structure with fresh, lively acidity.<br />
Animating and playful. 12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
170 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT RÖMMERT<br />
Franken | WINERIES<br />
Erlachhof 1, 97332 Volkach<br />
T: +49 (9381) 2366, info@weingut-roemmert.de<br />
www.weingut-roemmert.de<br />
Cellar Door: Wine shop Mondays through Fridays 10–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays and Sundays 10–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Team Weingut Römmert<br />
Contact: Christoph Ruck<br />
Hectares: 24 ha<br />
What is fashioned ‘‘Römmerts Wein-<br />
Welt” lies in Volkach in the loop of<br />
the river Main, just a few kilometres<br />
from Würzburg. A “WeinHotel”, 24<br />
hectares of vineyards and a wine estate of<br />
more than 100 years’ standing form part of<br />
this wine world. You should not miss a visit to<br />
the “WeinSensorikum”, where wine can be encountered<br />
with all the senses. Where wine is<br />
concerned, both the defined Silvaner and the<br />
refined Riesling from the Escherndorfer Lump<br />
site are most convincing. We wonder how the<br />
new estate manager Christoph Ruck will further<br />
exploit and interpret this site potential.<br />
91 2019 Escherndorf Lump Silvaner trocken<br />
Powerful and spicy aroma, ripe apples, pears, also herbs,<br />
quince and nuances of crushed rock. With good consistency on<br />
the palate and density flanked by a powerful structure, fine<br />
phenolic layer and skilfully integrated acidic structure. Clear<br />
mineral definition, good potential. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
88 2019 Scheurebe halbtrocken<br />
91 2018 Escherndorf Lump Silvaner trocken<br />
Ripe apple with herbs in the powerful nose, also mineral<br />
hints from a hot vineyard site of limestone. Powerful structure<br />
with a lot of substance and a lot of spice, also with power,<br />
a lot of extract and density and with intense minerality.<br />
Impressive composition. 14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
90 2019 Escherndorf Lump Riesling trocken<br />
Fine aroma of stone fruit, peach and apricot, papaya with<br />
some leafy green notes and hints of fine spice. A Riesling full<br />
of finesse with a slender structure and ripe, delicate acidity,<br />
clear, juicy fruit, good extract. Subsequently, citric notes with<br />
minerality. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 »Junge Edition« Müller-Thurgau tr.<br />
Scents of apple, citrus fruit, spring meadows and mirabelle<br />
plums. Slender and straightforward on the palate, with a<br />
nice spiciness and juiciness. A typical representative of the<br />
variety and clear in expression, a Müller-Thurgau that can be<br />
enjoyed by itself or as a good accompaniment to food.<br />
12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 »Junge Edition« Silvaner trocken<br />
Apple and pear in the defined and fruity nose, blossom and<br />
fine spice and hints of Reine Claude plums. Juicy and with<br />
fine sweetness on the palate accompanied by ripe acidity,<br />
accessible style that spreads Franconian ambience with<br />
its spiciness. Mineral finish. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
171
WEINGUT ROTH<br />
Büttnergasse 11, 97355 Wiesenbronn<br />
T: +49 (9325) 902004, info@weingut-roth.de<br />
www.weingut-roth.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–17 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Andreas Hopfengart, Nicole Roth<br />
Contact: Nicole Roth<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 150,000 (55 % white, 45 % red)/24 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
This family-run estate is amongst the pioneers<br />
of organic viticulture in Franken.<br />
Gerhard Roth senior started growing<br />
organically as early as 1974. In the meantime<br />
he handed the reins of the estate to his<br />
daughter Nicole – but with his invaluable experience<br />
he still is active in the vineyards. It is<br />
obvious that the interaction between the old<br />
and new generation works really well here, the<br />
wines express as much: each and every one of<br />
them rests in itself and comes with great balance.<br />
We particularly liked the juicy Silvaner<br />
“Alte Reben” with its power and spice – an<br />
ideal wine for the table.<br />
91 2018 »Alte Reben« Silvaner trocken<br />
Rich, clear yellow. On the nose a bit restrained at the beginning,<br />
then notes of almond, pear and hints of hay appear. On the palate<br />
a lot of texture, a little phenolic, extract and power, light<br />
fruits are underlaid with spice, a lot of juice, dense structure and<br />
length. Pairs well with white meat. 14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
91 2018 »All Nature« trocken AU/TR<br />
Cloudy orange in appearance. On the nose quince and apple peel<br />
with hints of rose and nutmeg and a dash of star anise; very aromatic.<br />
Fine tannins on the palate, gripping, medium acidity, quince<br />
reappears again, plus some a notion of almond. Good structure<br />
and length, interesting orange wine. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2016 »G« Wiesenbronn Heller Berg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Medium red with garnet reflections. On the nose sloe, dark<br />
cherry, tobacco, forest floor, spice and a whiff of smoke. On<br />
the palate ripe tannins, dark fruits, sour cherry, smoke and<br />
texture. Finely balanced, good structure and length, ideal<br />
with saddle of venison. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2017 »G« Wiesenbronner Heller Berg<br />
Blaufränkisch<br />
Clear cherry red hues. Spicy scents of clove, cherry and<br />
blackberry. On the palate ripe tannins, coherent acidity<br />
which coats the palate with spice and cherry, plus sloe berry<br />
and forest floor nuances. Medium structure and length.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2019 Wiesenbronn Geissberg<br />
Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 Wiesenbronn Geissberg Silvaner tr.<br />
89 2019 Rödelseer Küchenmeister<br />
Weissburgunder trocken 2019<br />
88 2019 Wiesenbronn Silvaner trocken<br />
90 2017 »G« Rotweincuvée trocken CI/CD<br />
89 2017 Wiesenbronn Wachhügel<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
89 2017 »Purpur« trocken PN/BF/CO<br />
90 2015 Burgunder brut<br />
Rich, clear yellow. On the nose toast, some smoke, brioche,<br />
ripe apple - a nobly evolved fragrance. Fine mousse, rich,<br />
harmonious acidity, almond, apple and pear nuances, medium<br />
structure, but a nice length. Calm nature, also suitable<br />
as a food wine. 13 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
172 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT ROTHE<br />
Franken | WINERIES<br />
Heerweg 6, 97334 Nordheim<br />
T: +49 (9381) 8479530, info@weingut-rothe.de<br />
www.weingut-rothe.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Saturdays 9–12 and<br />
13–18 hrs, Sundays 9–12 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Manfred Rothe<br />
Contact: Manfred Rothe<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 80,000 (70 % white, 30 % red)/12 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
Even if he is no longer in the first flush of<br />
youth, Manfred Rothe has kept his inquisitive<br />
spirit and innate curiosity.<br />
His skin-fermented white wines made in<br />
qvevri and barrel are an arresting flavour experience.<br />
Even his estate wines already show<br />
minerality which he knows how to tease from<br />
the Triassic limestone. He makes wines that<br />
are just predestined for the table. Thus it follows<br />
that a bistro and wine garden have been<br />
added to the estate. A place of pleasure, as<br />
Rothe puts it: “Nature in its finest guise with<br />
organic quality.”<br />
93 2018 »Indigenius« Silvaner trocken<br />
Scents of wood, spices, menthol, apple and allspice. On the<br />
palate there is great volume, lively, high-quality phenolics<br />
and ripe supporting acidity. Seems very calm and balanced,<br />
young, well-judged maceration. Great potential.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
92 2014 »Indigenius« Silvaner trocken<br />
Strong colour. On the nose wood, intense yellow-fruited aromas,<br />
mirabelle plums and balsamic spice. A supple, almost<br />
creamy onset is followed by a dry phenolic framework, mealy<br />
tannic structure which tames the alcohol very well. Still<br />
young! 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
91 2019 Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
90 2018 »Grande« Scheurebe trocken<br />
90 2019 Weissburgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 »Grande« Müller-Thurgau trocken<br />
89 2017 Muscaris brut nature<br />
89 2018 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
89 2018 »Grande« Schwarzriesling trocken<br />
91 2018 »Grande« Silvaner trocken<br />
Yeasty aroma, which is still very closed. On the palate, broad<br />
and poised with a very fine phenolic texture, ripe acidity with<br />
fullness and at the same time with delicacy and freshness. A<br />
beautiful tactile-mineral interplay on the finish.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
91 2018 »Grande« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
A berryish Pinot scent with spicy depth, truly Burgundian in<br />
style, with integrated, discreet use of wood. Juicy palate, fine<br />
tannin grain, round and smooth in the background, ripe acidity,<br />
still compact on the palate but with juiciness and minerality.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
90 2019 Silvaner trocken<br />
Fresh on the nose, herbal, a little yeast and flint. Supple on<br />
the palate with fine acidity and slightly salty perceptions.<br />
A juicy Silvaner, accurate in all components, with a distinct<br />
mineral hue. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
173
WEINGUT HORST SAUER<br />
Bocksbeutelstrasse 14, 97332 Escherndorf<br />
T: +49 (9381) 4364, mail@weingut-horst-sauer.de<br />
www.weingut-horst-sauer.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–12 hrs and<br />
13–18 hrs, Saturdays 11–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Sandra Sauer<br />
Contact: Sandra Sauer<br />
Hectares: 20 ha<br />
The dry wines made by Sandra and<br />
Horst Sauer may have been a tad more<br />
balanced and convincing in the past, especially<br />
the village wines. The noble sweet<br />
wines, however, demand every respect: the Silvaner<br />
TBA unites complexity, intensity and<br />
feather-light sensuality in a compelling fashion.<br />
Both Beerenauslesen of Silvaner and Riesling<br />
are similarly brilliant, carried by the mineral<br />
verve of the des Escherndorfer Lump site:<br />
they pay homage to this great terroir. A round<br />
of applause!<br />
93 2019 Escherndorf am Lumpen 1655<br />
Riesling GG<br />
Some wood, slightly herbaceous with some estery fruit<br />
notes, candied pineapple and banana. On the palate, powerful<br />
extract, a hint of green tones, taut acidity, strong tactile<br />
mineral notes, fruity sweetness. A rather muscular Riesling<br />
that still needs time. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
98 2019 Escherndorf Lump Silvaner<br />
Trockenbeerenauslese<br />
Candied fruits are underlaid with fine botrytis spice, guava,<br />
passion fruit and sultanas which are all defined and very<br />
complex. On the palate, syrupy in consistency, penetrating<br />
acidity but coherent in sweetness. Great composition for an<br />
eternal life. 6,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€€<br />
95 2019 Escherndorf Lump<br />
Riesling Beerenauslese<br />
Strong, very slightly borderline botrytis, citrus notes, some<br />
asparagus, smoky notes and limestone. Showing immense<br />
tension on the palate, a penetrating acidity, good sweetness,<br />
very long lasting, with almost astringent extract on the finish.<br />
7 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
95 2019 Escherndorf Lump<br />
Silvaner Beerenauslese<br />
Ripe peach on the clear nose and also green fruit, green apple,<br />
apple peel, herbal spice and warm stone. On the palate there is<br />
good balance, clear volume, good density and all components<br />
are well-integrated. Sensitively balanced, fine, straight, acidic<br />
wine with minerality. 7 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
92 2019 Escherndorf am Lumpen 1655<br />
Silvaner GG<br />
90 2019 »S.« Escherndorf Fürstenberg<br />
Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
90 2019 Escherndorf Lump<br />
Scheurebe Spätlese<br />
89 2019 »S.« Escherndorf Lump Silvaner tr.<br />
89 2019 Escherndorf Silvaner trocken<br />
88 2019 Escherndorf Riesling trocken<br />
91 2016 »S.« Escherndorf Fürstenberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
91 2019 »S.« Escherndorf Lump Riesling tr.<br />
Intensely fruity on the nose, peach and apricot notes.<br />
Smooth on the palate, then fresh, a little carbon dioxide,<br />
nervy, discreetly sturdy and mineral, somewhat sweet in<br />
the transition to the finish. Juicy, elegant Riesling with<br />
style. 13,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
174 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Franken | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT RAINER SAUER<br />
Bocksbeutelstrasse 15, 97332 Escherndorf<br />
T: +49 (9381) 2527, info@weingut-rainer-sauer.de<br />
www.weingut-rainer-sauer.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–12 hrs and<br />
13– 18 hrs, Saturdays 10–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Rainer and Daniel Sauer<br />
Contact: Rainer, Helga and Daniel Sauer<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 124,000 (98 % white, 2 % red)/15 ha<br />
Hats off to Rainer and Daniel Sauer:<br />
Their wines are full of substance and<br />
density without appearing forced or<br />
ungainly in the least. In their in-house competition<br />
between the “official” Silvaner GG and<br />
the “L”- wine, for us it is the GG which takes<br />
this year’s lead. We know, of course, that “L” is<br />
a long-distance runner, hitting its stride later<br />
on in the race. The 2019 Rieslings, likewise,<br />
are total winners: the “Erste Lage” is so animating<br />
that we had to take it quickly off the table<br />
– just in order not to endanger our sober<br />
tasting discipline.<br />
95 2019 Escherndorf am Lumpen 1655<br />
Silvaner GG<br />
Ripe pear on the nose, apple peel, bread crust, nutty aromas<br />
and also a dash of elderflower. Dense and with rich extract on<br />
the palate, properly dry and pervaded by minerality, monumental,<br />
yet power and substance are in good balance. Serene<br />
and impressive! 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
90 2019 Escherndorf Lump Silvaner<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
Herbal in the defined nose, followed by pear and apple, also<br />
yellow fruit and spice. Lively and mineral on the palate, powerful<br />
and well-structured yet with clear contours; good extract,<br />
fresh and lively acidity. Unembellished and natural.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 »Muschelkalk« Escherndorf<br />
Silvaner trocken<br />
94 2019 Escherndorf am Lumpen 1655<br />
Riesling GG<br />
A hint of yeast, closed citrus fruit notes and flint. Dense and<br />
compact on the palate, rich in extract and bundled, tight acidity,<br />
more pronounced fruitiness than sugar. Very good length,<br />
excellent ageing potential. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
93 2019 »Rainer Sauer L« Silvaner trocken<br />
Closed, hindered nose scents of apples and herbs, also a<br />
dash of hot stone. Concentrated and with inner tension on<br />
the palate, good extract and also juiciness, tightly woven, yet<br />
nuanced in its layering with a grippy minerality and a salty<br />
note. Nuances of fine bitter herbs on the finish.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
92 2019 Escherndorf Lump Riesling<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
Mineral-toned, floral Riesling notes and hints of jasmine,<br />
peach and orange blossom. Mineral nuances on the palate,<br />
tense and fresh, juicy with a a dash of carbon dioxide. A racy<br />
Riesling, perfectly proportioned and very animating to<br />
drink. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
175
WEINGUT SCHMITT’S KINDER<br />
Am Sonnenstuhl 45, 97236 Randersacker<br />
T: +49 (931) 7059197, info@schmitts-kinder.de<br />
www.schmitts-kinder.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 9–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Martin Schmitt<br />
Contact: Martin, Karl and Renate Schmitt<br />
Hectares: 14 ha<br />
Sometimes it is most impressive to simply<br />
let the scores do the talking: 95; twice<br />
94; twice 93 and 92 points – this is a respectable<br />
evaluation which Weingut Schmitt’s<br />
Kinder has roundly deserved with its outstanding<br />
range of wines. We already knew that<br />
Martin Schmitt can make amazing dry Silvaners<br />
and Rieslings. Now, however, he also presented<br />
a Pinot Noir with lots of tension and<br />
hinterland which happens to be among Franken’s<br />
best. The formidable Beerenauslese of<br />
Rieslaner absolutely merits mention as well.<br />
Schmitt’s Kinder is on brilliant form!<br />
95 2018 »Grosse Reserve« Randersacker<br />
Spielberg Riesling trocken<br />
Peach and yellow plum, discreet yeast with slightly flinty<br />
mineral spicy undertones. With air contact also floral notes<br />
appear - a true bouquet of aromas. Firm and immensely mineral<br />
on the palate, almost salty and also with brilliant acidity.<br />
Very long finish. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
concentrated sweetness, nice interplay with the clear acidity,<br />
a little saline, clear and precise. Still seems young and<br />
needs time for the components to integrate.<br />
8 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2019 Randersacker Pfülben Riesling GG<br />
94 2018 »Grosse Reserve« Randersacker<br />
Silvaner trocken<br />
Some wood spice on the nose, plus an unravelling varietal<br />
spice with some sesame, hay and linden blossom. Immediately<br />
animating on the palate with intense, tactile minerality,<br />
finely accompanied by phenolics, lots of juiciness in the<br />
background. Very balanced. 14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
94 2018 Randersacker Hohenroth<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Discreetly nutty boisée, sweet cherry, mineral and herbaceous<br />
undertones. Taut on the palate, firm, slightly greenish<br />
tannins albeit tense, accompanied by ripe acidity. A lot of extract,<br />
a Pinot with a great future. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2019 Randersacker Sonnenstuhl<br />
Rieslaner Beerenauslese<br />
Apple, stone dust, dried fruit, apricot, peach and tangerine<br />
aromas. These aromas also reassemble on the palate with<br />
93 2019 Randersacker Pfülben Silvaner GG<br />
Spring meadows, sesame, sorrel, fresh and spicy, multi-layered<br />
aromas. On the palate there is juice and silkiness,<br />
almost Burgundy-like texture, a hint of wooden barrel,<br />
finely chiselled acidity, plus a firm mineral base. Overall<br />
combining Silvaner charm with tension.<br />
14 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€€<br />
176 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Franken | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT TROCKENE SCHMITTS<br />
Maingasse 14a/Flecken 1, 97236 Randersacker<br />
T: +49 (931) 700490, info@naturreine-weine.de<br />
www.durchgegorene-weine.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 9.30–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Bruno and Lothar Schmitt<br />
Contact: Bruno Schmitt<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 125,000 (90 % white, 10 % red)/17 ha<br />
The fact that the highest scoring wine of<br />
the Trockene (i.e. dry) Schmitts is a<br />
sweet wine, namely their Rieslaner<br />
Beerenauslese, may be strange, but certainly<br />
does not warrant a name change for the estate:<br />
for one thing, the dry wines are exquisite, for<br />
another, they really are properly dry, something<br />
the Schmitt family manages to deliver<br />
year in, year out. We especially liked the Riesling<br />
and Silvaner “Grosse Gewächse’’, full of<br />
character. The savoury Silvaner Spätlese is our<br />
Falstaff-Tip and the emphatically dry Spätlese<br />
of Gewürztraminer is a wine you have to try!<br />
92 2018 »R Grosses Gewächs« Randersacker<br />
Sonnenstuhl Riesling trocken<br />
Herbal spice on the nose, also walnut, ripe apricot and some<br />
smoke and liquorice. Dense and concentrated on the palate with a<br />
firm structure and lots of substance, soft, supple acidity, juice and<br />
salty notes with essence of citrus fruits. Good balance of all the elements,<br />
lots of wine, real potential. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
93 2018 Randersacker Sonnenstuhl<br />
Rieslaner Beerenauslese<br />
Grapefruit on the nose. Highly concentrated on the palate, a<br />
penetrating acidity, downright biting with a powerful sweetness.<br />
Immensely young and closed, not yet complex at present,<br />
but with the very best potential. 8,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
88 2019 Randersacker Ewig Leben<br />
Sauvignon Blanc Kabinett trocken<br />
91 2018 »R Grosses Gewächs« Randersacker<br />
Sonnenstuhl Silvaner trocken<br />
Intensive herbal spice on the nose, dark, toasty aromas, juniper<br />
berry, ripe pear and flowers. Juicy on the palate, texture,<br />
subsequently showing substance and also power, dense core<br />
and well trained vigour. A Silvaner that is great with hearty<br />
food. 14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
91 2019 Randersacker Lämmerberg<br />
Gewürztraminer Spätlese trocken<br />
Varietal aromas of rose petals and ripe yellow fruit, lychee<br />
and mango. On the palate there is power and good substance<br />
and density, spicy, juicy and a long finish. Shows the advantages<br />
of Gewürztraminer in a markedly dry form. Pairs well<br />
with a spicy curry. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
91 2019 Randersacker Sonnenstuhl<br />
Silvaner Spätlese trocken<br />
On the powerful nose there are aromas of ripe pear and<br />
also yellow fruit, flowers, spice and floral notes. On the palate,<br />
it is full-bodied and juicy, powerful with well-judged<br />
strength, well-integrated acidity, spiciness and also mineral<br />
grip. Solid and genuine. 13,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
177
WEINGUT NICO SCHOLTENS<br />
Rieneckstrasse 6, 97514 Oberaurach<br />
T: +49 (9529) 326, info@weingut-scholtens.com<br />
weingut-scholtens.com<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Nico Scholtens<br />
Contact: Nico Scholtens<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 30,000 (70 % white, 30 % red)/5 ha<br />
Jazz musician and grape variety archivist<br />
– Nico Scholtens has numerous talents.<br />
Far in the east of the Franken winelands,<br />
almost in Bamberg, this passionate winemaker<br />
guards great treasure: a vineyard planted to<br />
a field blend in 1910. Various grape varieties,<br />
apparently more than a dozen, are co-planted<br />
in a colourful mix. The wines Scholtens makes<br />
from them are liquid cultural monuments –<br />
that somehow styled slightly against the zeitgeist,<br />
but delicious and worth exploring in<br />
their unadulterated artisanal style. All the other<br />
wines show just as much character.<br />
90 2017 »['drai]« Zell Schlossberg<br />
Alter Fränkischer Satz trocken<br />
Fragrant honey notes and fine shimmering hues in the glass.<br />
On the palate, fresh hay and white berries contribute to a<br />
juicy flow, the wine is soft and tart, simultaneously, in any<br />
case incredibly idiosyncratic and absolute. Appears young<br />
and positively special. 10,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
granted, it deserves special attention.<br />
10,5 Vol.-%. agglomerated cork, €<br />
88 2017 »['drai]« Zell Schlossberg<br />
Perle trocken<br />
89 2017 »['drai]« Riesling brut nature<br />
Scents of fragrant blossoms with floral notes, apricot and a<br />
dash of mint. On the palate, gripping with fresh acidity, slender<br />
and straightforward, also with a dollop of charm. An unembellished<br />
Sekt, showing qualities as an aperitif and as a<br />
food wine. 12 Vol.-%. agglomerated cork, €€<br />
89 2018 »['drai]« Zell Schlossberg Kerner tr.<br />
A distinct sparkle in the glass, cautiously fragrant, herbaceous<br />
with varietal spiciness. Harmoniously fine, tart acidity<br />
with a little residual sweetness and nuances of grapefruit<br />
peel on the finish. A juicy aftertaste.<br />
14 Vol.-%. agglomerated cork, €<br />
89 2017 »['drai]« Zell Schlossberg<br />
Spätburgunder Weissherbst trocken<br />
Very beautiful light copper colour shimmers in appearance.<br />
Scents of white honey, nasturtium and rapeseed blossom. On<br />
the palate light and juicy, a bit tart and not to be taken for<br />
91 2018 »[’drai]« Zell Schlossberg Alter<br />
Fränkischer Satz Landwein tr.<br />
A typical field blend, and not an aromatic grenade, with a fairly<br />
arduous chore identifying the aroma from these varieties. One<br />
can detect scents of caraway and emerging notes of something<br />
ripe and something green. Then on the palate a burst of<br />
pithy acidity and at the same time immense juiciness. Very exciting<br />
and polarising, extraordinary! 12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
178 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT SCHWAB<br />
Franken | WINERIES<br />
Bühlstrasse 17, 97291 Thüngersheim<br />
T: +49 (9364) 89183, info@weingut-schwab-franken.de<br />
www.weingut-schwab-franken.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–12 hrs and<br />
13–18 hrs, Saturdays 9–12 Uhr<br />
Winemaker: Thomas Schwab<br />
Contact: Andrea Schwab<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 80,000 (85 % white, 15 % red)/13 ha<br />
Weingut Schwab is above all dependable:<br />
vintage upon vintage<br />
can be relied upon: the entry-level<br />
wines are classic varietal representations that<br />
come with freshness, fruit, juiciness and balance.<br />
In the upper reaches of the range the<br />
wines show complexity, style and provenance,<br />
like the powerful “Grosses Gewächs” Rothlauf,<br />
for instance, or the substantial Riesling<br />
from the Scharlachberg site. The sweet wines<br />
also turn out exquisitely well, like the elegant<br />
Riesling Auslese. The reds, like the savoury<br />
and mineral Spätburgunder from the Johannisberg<br />
site show real presence!<br />
92 2018 Thüngersheim Johannisberg<br />
Rothlauf Silvaner GG<br />
Pear and apple show up next to toasted aromas on the nose,<br />
also notes of quince and nut. On the palate there is power and<br />
density, a firm structure, also from the wood ageing; ripe acidity<br />
and discreet sweetness come together. Still youthful, good<br />
potential for further development. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
91 2019 Thüngersheim Scharlachberg<br />
Riesling Erste Lage trocken<br />
Apple and apple peel on the nose, ripe stone fruit, grapefruit,<br />
herbaceous and stony notes. Juicy on the palate, with ripe<br />
acidity and fine spice in a powerful and firm texture; lots of<br />
wine and substance. Not a lightweight, perfectly coherent.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 Thüngersheim Johannisberg<br />
Silvaner Erste Lage trocken<br />
Apple, melon and pear in the powerful aroma followed by<br />
white flowers, hops, fine smoke and also a hint of butterscotch.<br />
Powerfully structured with muscle on the palate,<br />
good volume and medium density, insistent fruit accompanied<br />
by spice. Consistent and with good length.<br />
14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
91 2018 Thüngersheim Riesling Auslese<br />
Rich, clear yellow. On the nose some sort of matchstick aroma,<br />
lime, hot stones, pear jam, herbal spices and a hint of<br />
honey. On the palate lots of texture, well-integrated acidity,<br />
citrus again, papaya. Good structure with potential. Nice<br />
length, ideal with pear tart. 9 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 Thüngersheim Silvaner trocken<br />
89 2019 Thüngersheim Riesling trocken<br />
88 2019 Thüngersheim Scheurebe trocken<br />
88 2019 Thüngersheim Müller-Thurgau tr.<br />
88 2019 Thüngersheim Weissburgunder tr.<br />
87 2019 »enjoy white« trocken GS/BC/SÄ/MT<br />
89 2018 Thüngersheim Spätburgunder tr.<br />
90 2018 Thüngersheim Johannisberg<br />
Spätburgunder Erste Lage trocken<br />
Smoke and cherry on the nose with wild strawberry and<br />
also raspberry. A well-balanced Pinot Noir with a powerful<br />
yet elegant structure, cherry again on the palate, ripe tannins,<br />
fine spice and also mineral hues. Classically beautiful,<br />
good length. 13,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
179
WEINGUT SCHLOSS<br />
SOMMERHAUSEN<br />
Hauptstrasse 25, 97286 Sommerhausen<br />
T: +49 (9333) 260, info@sommerhausen.com<br />
www.sommerhausen.com<br />
Cellar Door: Tuesdays through Fridays 10–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–16 hrs, Sundays 10–14 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Martin Steinmann<br />
Contact: Martin Steinmann<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 120,000 (90 % white, 10 % red)/20 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
Martin Steinmann of Weingut Schloss<br />
Sommerhausen presented not one<br />
but three mature vintage sparkling<br />
wines – from 2008, 2012 and 2013, showing<br />
that he has mastered all wine genres: Riesling,<br />
Silvaner and Pinot-varieties turn out just as<br />
well as aromatic varieties. The Gelber Muskateller<br />
manages without a trace of kitsch, the<br />
smooth ‘‘Mukatsilvaner’’ is our special Falstaff-Tip.<br />
The “Grosse Gewächse” of Silvaner<br />
and Riesling from 2018 show the power of the<br />
warm vintage – but also a cleverly styled idea<br />
of provenance.<br />
93 2008 »avec pläsier Le Grand Blanc<br />
dégorgement tardif« brut nature<br />
Light gold with greenish hues. The bouquet is rich in aromas<br />
ranging from slight tertiary notes to redcurrant and apple.<br />
There is softness and poise on the palate with a very fine<br />
chiseled mousse and ripe acidity. A full-bodied sparkling<br />
wine that has matured to great suppleness. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork<br />
93 2013 »avec pläsier Le Grand Blanc«<br />
brut nature<br />
A fine, spicy fragrance with hints of tertiary notes followed<br />
by marmelade and bitter orange. Taut acidity on the palate<br />
with ripe and an almost creamy roundness in the mousse,<br />
flanked by delicate pronounced fruitiness. A hint of minerality<br />
with lots of juiciness on the finish. Well composed, mature<br />
with a lovely nuance. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2012 »avec pläsier Le Grand Riesling« brut<br />
Subtle patina of evolving aromas of apple, leather, dried<br />
lemon peel and garden herbs. A firm acidity with a restrained<br />
dosage, very fine and yet voluminous mousse. A completely<br />
self-contained varietal style with beautiful freshness in maturity.<br />
12 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2018 Sommerhausen<br />
Steinbach-Alttenberg 1172 Silvaner GG<br />
Some linden blossom, slightly nutty tones, but still rather restrained<br />
on the nose. On the palate full-bodied and poised,<br />
rather mild acidity, suppleness and power show the vintage,<br />
but the wine also has playfulness and a fine mineral structure.<br />
Substance and length. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
92 2018 Sommerhausen<br />
Steinbach-Alttenberg 1172 Riesling GG<br />
90 2019 Sommerhausen Steinbach Silvaner<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
90 2019 Sommerhausen Steinbach Riesling<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
90 2019 Gelber Muskateller trocken<br />
89 2018 Sommerhausen Steinbach<br />
Weissburgunder Erste Lage trocken<br />
90 2015 »avec pläsier Le Grand Rosé«<br />
extra brut<br />
90 2019 »Rosé de Provinz« trocken<br />
91 2019 Muskatsilvaner trocken<br />
Restrained fragrance of gooseberry, nettle and a dash of<br />
pepper. Soft and supple on the palate, good weight on the<br />
midpalate with a lively acidic accompaniment, substance<br />
on the finish. A serious wine, solidly built, rich in content,<br />
unobtrusive. 13,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
180 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WINZERHOF STAHL<br />
Franken | WINERIES<br />
Lange Dorfstrasse 21, 97215 Auernhofen<br />
T: +49 (9848) 96896, mail@winzerhof-stahl.de<br />
www.winzerhof-stahl.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Christian Stahl<br />
Contact: Christian Stahl<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 200,000 (90 % white, 10 % red)/30 ha<br />
Both in Franken and beyond, Christian<br />
Stahl is seen as a scintillating multi-talented,<br />
constantly on the go, constantly<br />
coming up with new ideas and projects. Next<br />
to Grüner Veltliner, he now has also planted<br />
Chenin Blanc. This winemaker turned a farm<br />
which also engaged in a little viticulture into a<br />
well-known winery that now farms 30 hectares<br />
of vineyards that go beyond the vines of<br />
Taubertal. His wines, expertly matured in<br />
wood, also have a gastronomic bearing –<br />
which is not surprising when you realise that<br />
Stahl is an excellent chef, presenting ambitious<br />
dinners at his estate. A really strong collection.<br />
92 2018 »Fass 500« Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Vanilla and caramel, plus intense and delicate fruit: nectarine,<br />
vine peach and orange peel. Massive on the palate, very<br />
fine phenolics, stable acid backbone, almost monumental in<br />
its fullness and richness of extract. Very good length.<br />
14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
90 2018 Sulzfeld Cyriakusberg<br />
Scheurebe trocken<br />
91 2019 »Best of« Silvaner trocken<br />
Medium lemon yellow. On the nose: peach, lemon and violet.<br />
On the palate clean peach fruit as well as new citrus aromas<br />
like lime and lemon peel. Thus, a very fine and fresh drinking<br />
experience despite a rather moderate acidity.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
91 2019 Randersacker Marsberg Riesling tr.<br />
Medium lemon yellow. Initially almost discreet aromas of apple,<br />
mango and lime. On the palate there is concentrated fine<br />
fruit of apple and mango as well as lemon zest, mirabelle<br />
plums and grapefruit. Well integrated flanked by lively acidity<br />
in a medium-weight body. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2018 »Fass 500« Chardonnay trocken<br />
On the nose, a scent of yellow apple, lemon zest, pineapple<br />
and butter notes. On the palate, a very clean aroma of apple<br />
and pineapple as well as clove, vanilla and pear. All finely balanced<br />
with lively acidity and a long finish.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
90 2019 Veltliner trocken<br />
Lemon yellow and almost clear in the glass. On the nose, a<br />
scent of green apple, lemon and redcurrant leaf. On the<br />
palate there is a slightly sweet fruit aroma poised by lively<br />
acidity. The finish is accompanied by white pepper and star<br />
fruit. 13,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
181
WEINGUT STEINTAL<br />
Wilhelmstrasse 107, 63911 Klingenberg<br />
T: +49 (9372) 2438, info@weingut-steintal.de<br />
www.weingut-steintal.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 10–16 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Benedikt Baltes<br />
Contact: Carl-Julius Cromme<br />
Hectares: 12 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
Even if Benedikt Baltes returned to the<br />
Ahr after a decade at the helm, and the<br />
former Weingut der Stadt Klingenberg<br />
was renamed Steintal, continuity is a given.<br />
Baltes is still responsible for winemaking – but<br />
of course there are changes as well: the current<br />
name Steintal refers to the red sandstone soils<br />
in the listed vineyard terraces of Klingenberg.<br />
The kingfisher as an emblem stands for ecological<br />
farming in tune with nature. The<br />
Hundsrück Spätburgunder is one of Franken’s<br />
and Germany’s best.<br />
96 2018 Bürgstadt Hundsrück<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Complex and spicy aromas of cherry, gingerbread, lovage,<br />
fine spice and hints of smoke. Good balance on the palate<br />
with fine-nerved acidity, does not score with force and power,<br />
but with well-packaged intensity. A long and mineral essenced<br />
finish. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
92 2018 »Alte Reben« Klingenberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Some yeast on the nose, dark berry fruit, elderberry jam, ripe<br />
fruits and toasty tones. impressive on the palate, fleshy tannins,<br />
strong tactile mineral components, ripe acidity, ample<br />
fullness and an intensely juicy finish. Excellent Ortswein.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2018 »Alte Reben« Grossheubach<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
94 2018 Grossheubach Bischofsberg<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Ample smoke, wood spice and yeast on the nose with herbs<br />
like lovage and notes of dark cherry and mulberry. Impressive<br />
on the palate with density and tension, a clearly defined powerhouse,<br />
uncompromising in its youth, pervaded by minerality,<br />
great potential. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
94 2018 Klingenberg Schlossberg<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Smoky aroma followed by herbs, toasted aromas, cherry and<br />
rosehip. Straightforward on the palate with good freshness<br />
and confident acidity, purist and dry, with grippy tannins,<br />
slight astringency, sour cherry essence. Good substance and<br />
minerality. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
91 2018 »Buntsandstein« Spätburgunder tr.<br />
Wild cherry and milk chocolate, fragrant, perfectly ripe<br />
fruit. On the palate there is verve in medium weight, mellow-grainy<br />
tannins, ripe acidity, mineral notes. This wine<br />
portrays the label perfectly - Pinot Noir from Buntsandstein.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
182 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Franken | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT STÖRRLEIN KRENIG<br />
Schulstrasse 14, 97236 Randersacker<br />
T: +49 (931) 708281, info@stoerrlein.de<br />
www.stoerrlein.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Saturdays 9–18 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Armin Störrlein, Martin Krenig<br />
Contact: Armin Störrlein<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 80,000 (80 % white, 20 % red)/12 ha<br />
Presented with this wine range, one really<br />
is spoilt for choice: it holds all of<br />
Franken’s wine diversity, connecting<br />
innovation with tradition. The “Grosse<br />
Gewächse’’ presented here rest in themselves<br />
and show good concentration. The “Frentsch”<br />
convincingly translates the idea of a field<br />
blend, while “Pure Grapes”, where whole, uncrushed<br />
berries were fermented, underscores<br />
the experimental character of the cellar masters<br />
Armin Störrlein and Martin Krenig. The<br />
superb Silvaner TBA from the Sonnenstuhl<br />
site is the culmination of this impressive ensemble.<br />
92 2018 Randersacker Sonnenstuhl<br />
Hohenroth Silvaner GG<br />
Aromas of mirabelle plums and delicate white flowers and<br />
stone fruit. On the palate stimulating grapefruit peel, fine<br />
and present acid structure, also with juice and power, good<br />
concentration. A positive texture, long finish that persists for<br />
some time. 14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
92 2018 Randersacker Sonnenstuhl<br />
Hohenroth Riesling GG<br />
Delicious cool nose of white blossoms and burnt sugar, plus<br />
apricot and hints of pannacotta. On the palate crunchy acidity<br />
and animating sweetness-acidity interplay, juicy and elegant,<br />
with fine spice and minerality. Finely crafted, long finish.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
92 2018 »Pure Grapes FR« Frühburgunder tr.<br />
Beautiful garnet red. Berry-like and slightly smoky nose,<br />
cherry, also spices like cinnamon and clove. On the palate elegant<br />
and smooth, lots of juice and freshness with harmonious<br />
acidity, the elements are finely balanced with immense<br />
flow. An elegant wine! 14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
95 2018 Randersacker Sonnenstuhl<br />
Silvaner Trockenbeerenauslese<br />
A clearly defined floral varietal spiciness, bread crust, smoky<br />
limestone, stone fruit and herbal notes. On the palate vibrant<br />
minerality, poised by penetrating acidity, subsequently very<br />
sweet and also very viscous, caramelised almond on the finish.<br />
Great Trockenbeerenauslese. 7,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€€<br />
92 2018 »Pure Grapes WB« Weissburgunder tr.<br />
90 2018 »Frentsch« Randersacker trocken<br />
GS/WB/GM/TR/RR<br />
90 2011 Randersacker Sonnenstuhl<br />
Weissburgunder GG<br />
90 2017 Randersacker Sauvignon Blanc<br />
trocken unfiltriert<br />
89 2019 »Alte Reben« Randersacker Marsberg<br />
Silvaner Erste Lage trocken<br />
89 2019 »vom Muschelkalk« Silvaner trocken<br />
91 2017 »Casparus« trocken unfiltiriert PN/CS<br />
91 2019 Randersacker Sonnenstuhl<br />
Silvaner Erste Lage trocken<br />
Very delicate nose of freshly cut green apples and fine<br />
meadow herbs. On the palate there is good balance and<br />
texture, slender structure, dry in impression with the light<br />
mineral notes providing accents, cool, fragrant and herbaceous.<br />
Pure character! 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
183
WEINGUT VON DER TANN<br />
Birklinger Strasse 1, 97346 Iphofen<br />
T: +49 (9323) 89970, info@weingut-vondertann.de<br />
www.weingut-vondertann.de<br />
Cellar Door: Thursdays and Fridays 8–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 9–18 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Steffen von der Tann<br />
Contact: Maggie Schauner and Steffen von der Tann<br />
Hectares: 3 ha<br />
Steffen von der Tann and Margarete<br />
Schauner, third generation winemakers<br />
at this family-run estate, have dedicated<br />
themselves whole-heartedly to Müller-Thurgau,<br />
a grape variety that is often underestimated.<br />
Steffen von der Tann makes a juicy “OMG”<br />
Müller-Thurgau, with longs skin contact. Its<br />
six months on lees were evidently beneficial,<br />
too. This is a wine that meets both winemakers’<br />
ambitions to turn out wines with a bit of<br />
edge and character – and a twinkle in the eye.<br />
A most appealing attitude.<br />
91 2019 »Black Silvaner« trocken<br />
Striking light green hues in the glass, fragrant nose of white<br />
flowers and candied lemon peel. A crunchy acidity on the palate<br />
with freshness but also suppleness, slightly salty on the<br />
palate, good length, exciting wine. 12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2018 Bacchus Kabinett trocken<br />
90 2018 »OMG« Müller-Thurgau<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
The nose is cool and fresh. On the palate the wine is juicy<br />
with a little hint of quince, slightly smoky, good acidity, delicately<br />
and animatingly bitter. The long maceration time and<br />
the six-month lees ageing result in a very individual<br />
Müller-Thurgau. 12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2016 Iphofen Kronsberg<br />
Müller-Thurgau Spätlese<br />
A very delicate nose, fragrant and soft with hints of apple. On<br />
the palate a fine and also fresh sweetness with a lot of juice<br />
and flow, firm core, plus a powerful finish. Very good food<br />
wine, still youthful. 12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2018 »Rotbart« Domina Landwein trocken<br />
Deep blackberry red, opaque in the glass with a juicy nose of<br />
blueberries and hay flowers. Very dense and juicy on the palate,<br />
fine, soft, ripe tannins, embraced by black cherry and almonds.<br />
Good structure and nice length. Enjoyable!<br />
12 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 »efach Müller« Müller-Thurgau tr.<br />
Delicate light green in appearance. A fine fresh fragrance<br />
of white berries and some nutmeg notes. On the palate,<br />
delicate creaminess, harmonious fine acidity with a certain<br />
minerality and a refreshing finish. A perfect picnic<br />
wine! 12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
184 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT THEN<br />
Franken | WINERIES<br />
Hauptstrasse 1, 97334 Sommerach<br />
T: +49 (9381) 9268, info@weingut-then.de<br />
www.weingut-then.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–18 hrs, Saturdays<br />
9–15 hrs, Sundays 10–12 hrs and by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Daniel Then<br />
Contact: Daniel Then<br />
Hectares: 7 ha<br />
For five years now Daniel Then has been<br />
future-proofing this estate in Sommerach.<br />
The vineyards are in conversion to<br />
organic farming. “For us, this represents the<br />
future. Out Triassic limestone soils are the basis<br />
of our wines. We want to preserve them and<br />
be able to hand them to the next generation in<br />
a vital and healthy state,” the winemaker says.<br />
He presented a thoroughly accomplished<br />
range of wines: all wines show juicy power at<br />
just the right juncture, the Silvaner “Ovum”,<br />
fermented in a concrete egg, also shows density<br />
and minerality. The playful Scheurebe is<br />
most animating. Compliments.<br />
92 2018 »Ovum« Volkach Ratsherr Silvaner tr.<br />
Silvaner matured in a concrete egg; fine yeasty spice, apples,<br />
caraway, yellow fruit and herbs on the nose. The palate is<br />
clearly composed with measured power, juice and fine minerality,<br />
some phenolic astringency on the finish. Calm and<br />
unique. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
91 2019 »Alte Reben« Silvaner Spätlese tr.<br />
Ripe red apple on the nose, herbs, pear skin, spice and notes<br />
of yeast. Well-built on the palate with decent extract, powerful<br />
and yet with clearly defined strength, dry, also some phenolic<br />
bitterness; juicy with spice and mineral undertones.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 Sommerach Katzenkopf<br />
Silvaner Kabinett trocken<br />
Apple and apple peel on the nose, meadow herbs and a little<br />
hint of chocolate maltesers. Full-bodied and spicy on the palate,<br />
clear and slender, showing good density for a Kabinett,<br />
juicy, texture and a clear mineral base from the limestone.<br />
Convincing. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2016 »R« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Juniper berry on the nose, toasted aromas and smoke, dark<br />
fruit, mulberry and cherry, spices with hints of curry powder.<br />
On the palate there is good substance and structure, it unravels<br />
into a wide body, soft and spicy, the tannins are present<br />
and smooth. It has potential. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2019 Sommerach Katzenkopf Am Tiefental<br />
Weissburgunder Kabinett trocken<br />
88 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
88 2019 »Oskar 4.0« Kabinett trocken FR/SB<br />
87 2019 Silvaner trocken<br />
88 2019 Rosé trocken<br />
89 2017 »Tradition« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
89 2017 Sommerach Katzenkopf<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 Sommerach Katzenkopf<br />
Scheurebe Kabinett trocken<br />
Smells of ripe gooseberries and mirabelle plums, notes of<br />
fine herbs. Juicy on the palate with a clear expression and<br />
good freshness, animating acidity, nice spiciness especially<br />
that of white pepper. A pleasurable Scheurebe, good as<br />
an aperitif. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
185
WEINMANUFAKTUR 3 ZEILEN<br />
Heinrich-Wiegand-Strasse 2, 97348 Rödelsee<br />
T: +49 (9323) 876454, 3zeilen@web.de<br />
www.3-zeilen.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Christian Ehrlich<br />
Contact: Alexandra and Christian Ehrlich<br />
Hectares: 3 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
Twelve years ago Alexandra and Christian<br />
Ehrlich founded their “Bioweinmanufaktur”<br />
with just three rows of vines, while<br />
converting an old house into a winery. Their Riesling<br />
is called “Dachschaden” (which in German<br />
stands both for a literally damaged roof and<br />
brain damage), because each bottle sold finances<br />
one square meter of a new roof. We tastes a range<br />
of artisanally made wines with subtle liveliness<br />
and fine balance – which stand out from the majority<br />
of often somewhat rustic natural wines.<br />
The Falstaff jury was enthused and nominated<br />
this winemaking couple as one of our three newcomers<br />
of the year (see page 22). Congratulations!<br />
93 2018 »Onkel Heiner Seiner« Rödelsee<br />
Küchenmeister Silvaner Landwein trocken<br />
Ripe apricot in the complex nose, also in dried form, apple<br />
peel, herbs, spices, coriander seed, caraway and brioche.<br />
Powerfully structured on the palate with good extract and<br />
density, grip, phenolically charged. Still youthful, clear profile.<br />
13 Vol.-%. crowncap, €€€<br />
dark aromas of juniper berries, dried fruit, dried apricot and<br />
green banana. Powerfully structured on the palate with good<br />
extract and a layer of fine phenolics and buttery notes reappear.<br />
Finely extracted, elegant. 13 Vol.-%. DIAM, €€<br />
89 2018 »Platin« Rödelsee Küchenmeister<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
91 2018 »Dachschaden« Rödelsee<br />
Küchenmeister Riesling<br />
Butter and smoke on the nose, herbs, apricot and also caraway.<br />
Thre is a soft foundation on the palate, juicy and creamy,<br />
but also spicy and peppery, the fine acidity is well integrated,<br />
well balanced, has power, but is elegantly staged. Good<br />
length, potential. 13 Vol.-%. DIAM, €€€<br />
90 2017 »Reserve Platin« Rödelsee<br />
Küchenmeister Landwein tr. GS/WB/SB<br />
Ripe gooseberry and pepper on the nose, also some mango<br />
and pear, as well as herbs. Shows suppleness and power as<br />
well as tension on the palate, good volume and well-integrated<br />
acidity and herbal and peppery tomes. Nicely balanced,<br />
medium complexity. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
89 2018 »Platin« Rödelsee<br />
Küchenmeister Silvaner trocken<br />
Buttery and peppery on the nose, white pepper, smoky notes,<br />
91 2018 »Blanc Platin« Rödelsee<br />
Küchenmeister Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Juicy Reine Claude plums on the nose, almost overripe,<br />
herbal, spice and some mint. On the palate phenolic and<br />
with a firm structure, the acidity is well integrated, also<br />
the fruit shows itself clearly, juicy and good extract.Good<br />
length, still young. 13,5 Vol.-%, DIAM, €€<br />
186 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Franken | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT HANS WIRSCHING<br />
Ludwigstrasse 16, 97346 Iphofen<br />
T: +49 (9323) 87330, info@wirsching.de<br />
www.wirsching.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 9–18 hrs, Sundays 10–12.30 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Dr. Klaus-Peter Heigel<br />
Contact: Andrea Wirsching<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 650,000 (85 % white, 15 % red)/90 ha<br />
This longstanding Iphofen estate maintains<br />
its cruising altitude – and, to<br />
maintain this metaphor – the provisions<br />
on board are simply excellent. We just<br />
could not agree on what we liked best: the<br />
classic single-site wines in Bocksbeutel or the<br />
cheekier “Sister.Act” wines, made by Andrea<br />
and Lena Wirsching with spontaneous ferments.<br />
Their “Erste Lagen” also come with a<br />
particularly emphatic recommendation this<br />
year: they offer great terroir at a mid-level<br />
price and can be drunk earlier than their great<br />
brothers and sisters.<br />
93 2018 Iphofen Julius-Echter-Berg Silvaner GG<br />
Pear and apple on the nose in a herbal ambience, also some<br />
black tea and apricot. On the palate there is a powerful and<br />
clearly defined texture, stable acid structure. Enough substance<br />
and density to age well, mineral underpinning, also<br />
texture. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2018 »Sister.Act« Silvaner trocken<br />
Fine fragrance of acacia, cedar, lime and madarine peel, complemented<br />
by a slightly smoky note on the palate. Soft texture,<br />
dense medium body, recognisable phenolics, lively acidity and<br />
a long finish. A wine with potential. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
93 2018 Iphofen Julius-Echter-Berg Riesling GG<br />
Floral and almost perfumed undertones, lavender, musk,<br />
yeast, passion fruit. Juicy onset, loosely-knit phenolics, acidity<br />
gaining intensity on the palate, strong chalky mineral<br />
background. Has quite some power, but also a future.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
96 2019 Iphofen Julius-Echter-Berg<br />
Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese<br />
Medium golden yellow. Elegant nose of fermented apricot,<br />
fig and very ripe apple. Full-bodied on the palate with very<br />
fine flavours of lemon balm, mirabelle plum and honey. Precise<br />
sweetness-acidity interplay and a very significant finish.<br />
6,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
93 2018 »Sister.Act« Riesling trocken<br />
92 2019 »Alte Reben« Iphofen Kronsberg<br />
Silvaner Erste Lage trocken<br />
91 2019 Iphofen Julius-Echter-Berg<br />
Silvaner Erste Lage trocken<br />
90 2019 »Alte Reben« Iphofen Kronsberg<br />
Riesling Erste Lage trocken<br />
90 2019 »Alte Reben« Iphofen Kronsberg<br />
Scheurebe Erste Lage trocken<br />
89 2019 »Alte Reben« Iphofen Kronsberg<br />
Weissburgunder Erste Lage trocken<br />
88 2019 Iphofen Müller-Thurgau trocken<br />
92 2019 Iphofen Julius-Echter-Berg<br />
Riesling Erste Lage trocken<br />
Elegant nose with scents of lemon, lime, orange peel and<br />
chamomile. On the palate there is a slight spritzy attack,<br />
lively acidity that balances the alcohol well, with salty<br />
notes and trenchant minerality on the finish.<br />
13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
187
WEINGUT ZEHNTHOF<br />
FAMILIE WEICKERT<br />
Hauptstrasse 17, 97334 Sommerach<br />
T: +49 (9381) 2830, info@zehnthof-weickert.de<br />
www.zehnthof-weickert.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Sundays 8–20 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Tobias Weickert<br />
Contact: Gertrud Weickert<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 50,000 (90 % white, 10 % red)/7 ha<br />
When it comes to aromatic grape varieties,<br />
Tobias Weickert is a rare<br />
talent: there are now five different<br />
dry Scheureben which he presented. Each and<br />
every one is a separate character with its own<br />
mind and own talents. The culmination of this<br />
year’s range, however, is the Katzenkopf<br />
Traminer: a wine that combines expressiveness<br />
with noble restraint and which makes the<br />
Triassic limestone sing through its varietal<br />
spice. The new packaging also suits the style of<br />
the wines: it remains subtle and emphasises<br />
the essential information – just like the wines.<br />
92 2019 Astheim Karthäuser<br />
Scheurebe Spätlese trocken<br />
Smoky reduction on the nose, with citrus zest, tangerine,<br />
light herbal notes. On the palate supple, full, slightly viscous,<br />
very cultivated acidity, silky finish with underlying tactile<br />
mineral notes. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
92 2019 »Stettenburg« Obervolkach<br />
Landsknecht Scheurebe Spätlese trocken<br />
Grapefruit, ripe grape and flint on the nose; very clear and nuanced.<br />
On the palate smoothly flowing, still very closed, elegant<br />
acidity, with unforced extract. Mineral background, delicate<br />
sweetness. Will mature excellently! 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
91 2019 Sommerach Katzenkopf<br />
Scheurebe Spätlese trocken<br />
A fragrance of damp sand, with citrus fruit in the background<br />
- candied lemon peel. Straightforward on the palate, definitely<br />
with body and slight suppleness, but aromas are primarily<br />
marked by the soil with smoky notes. A delicate<br />
sweetness on the finish. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
91 2019 Obervolkach Landsknecht<br />
Scheurebe Spätlese trocken<br />
Floral and grapefruit, lavender, lemongrass. Poised and supple<br />
on the palate, also finely phenolic textured, ripe acidity,<br />
delicate sweetness, fresh with viscous extract layers on the<br />
finish. The most expressive of all the estate's dry Scheureben.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 Volkach Kirchberg<br />
Scheurebe Spätlese trocken<br />
90 2019 »Alte Rebe« Volkach Kirchberg<br />
Riesling Spätlese trocken<br />
89 2019 »Alte Rebe« Sommerach Katzenkopf<br />
Silvaner Spätlese trocken<br />
89 2019 »Alte Rebe« Volkach Kirchberg<br />
Kerner Spätlese trocken<br />
90 2019 Sommerach Katzenkopf<br />
Traminer Spätlese feinherb<br />
89 2019 Volkach Kirchberg<br />
Scheurebe Spätlese feinherb<br />
89 2019 Volkach Kirchberg Kerner<br />
Spätlese feinherb<br />
93 2019 Sommerach Katzenkopf Traminer<br />
Spätlese trocken<br />
On the nose there is as much limestone as there is Traminer<br />
(rose, smoke and blood orange). Very clear aromas.<br />
Smooth base, a very delicate layer of ultra-fine phenolics,<br />
firm acid backbone, mineral notes. A completely unembellished<br />
terroir-driven Traminer! 13,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
188 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
FRANKEN | INNS AND RESTAURANTS<br />
Escherndorf<br />
PASSIONATE<br />
HOSTS<br />
TOGETHER WITH THE REGION’S WINEMAKERS – ABSOLUTE EXPERTS<br />
WHEN IT COMES TO GASTRONOMY – FALSTAFF HAS CAREFULLY CHOSEN<br />
AND COLLATED THE BEST ADDRESSES FOR EATING,<br />
DRINKING AND STAYING.<br />
Stahl Winzerhof <br />
97215 Auernhofen<br />
The choice of excellent wines is great, there even<br />
is Grüner Veltliner in Christian Stahl's portfolio.<br />
The award-winning wines go rather well with his<br />
kind of Franconian haute cuisine that is based on<br />
exquisite interpretation of classics. A feel-good<br />
concept in stylish surroundings.<br />
Stern<br />
63927 Bürgstadt<br />
The restaurant, working predominantly with<br />
local produce, is part of a family-run hotel. Everything<br />
is freshly prepared and hearty. Specialities<br />
are the braised leg of hare, Tafelspitz and roast<br />
duck.<br />
Lange Dorfstrasse 21<br />
+49 (9848) 96896<br />
www.winzerhof-stahl.de<br />
<br />
FRANKEN<br />
Food: 44 | 50<br />
Service: 17 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 9 | 10<br />
88<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
Hauptstrasse 23/25<br />
+49 (9371) 40350<br />
www.hotel-weinhaus-stern.de<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Neuberger<br />
80–84<br />
85–89<br />
90–94<br />
95–100 Points<br />
189
Weinstall Castell <br />
97355 Castell<br />
These former stables have been transformed into<br />
an atmospheric, charming wine-led restaurant.<br />
The friendly hosts Martin and Anuschka Schulze<br />
focus on finely crafted, contemporary versions of<br />
Franconian regional cuisine, all homemade and of<br />
the best quality.<br />
Schlossplatz 3<br />
+49 (9325) 9809949<br />
www.weinstall-castell.de<br />
<br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 17 | 20<br />
Ambience: 9 | 10<br />
87<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
Adler<br />
63927 Bürgstadt<br />
Warm hospitality is the secret behind this solid<br />
Franconian country hotel which also includes a<br />
beautiful restaurant. Here, the ambitious kitchen<br />
works according to Slow Food philosophies. The<br />
attractive menu is correspondingly seasonal and<br />
regional.<br />
Hauptstrasse 30<br />
+49 (9371) 97880<br />
www.adler-buergstadt.de<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Neuberger<br />
Zum<br />
Weissen Rössl <br />
97705 Burkardroth<br />
The fourth-generation family-owned country inn<br />
is one of the oldest continuously run hostelries in<br />
Germany. The menu offers regional Rhön cuisine<br />
with an international twist, complemented by wines<br />
from the region and fruit brandies from the inhouse<br />
distillery.<br />
Brauner Bär &<br />
Weisse Taube<br />
97332 Fahr am Main<br />
A family business with hotel, winery and an inn<br />
offering hearty Franconian specialities. Homemade,<br />
of course, hearty and served in solid portions.<br />
You should try the roast venison with savoy cabbage<br />
‘grandma's style’.<br />
Von-Henneberg-Strasse 15<br />
+49 (9734) 9734201<br />
www.weisses-roessl-rhoen.de<br />
<br />
Food: 44 | 50<br />
Service: 17 | 20<br />
Drinks: 17 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
86<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
Blütenstrasse 22<br />
+49 (9381) 80730<br />
www.weingut-braun.de<br />
Recommended by: Falstaff-Redaktion<br />
Photo: Philip Eichler<br />
190 falstaff<br />
Wine Guide Germany 2021
Grünes Stüble<br />
97999 Igersheim<br />
The name is the concept here: sustainability is a<br />
priority, and special attention is paid to people<br />
with food intolerances. Organic produce is the<br />
preferred choice. Katharina Weiss is a wonderful<br />
hostess and the right person when it comes to<br />
wine advice.<br />
FRANKEN | INNS AND RESTAURANTS<br />
Michels Stern <br />
97340 Marktbreit<br />
Fine regional cuisine with a Franconian touch is<br />
served in hearty portions at this cosy inn run by<br />
Stefan and Wolfgang Michel. ‘Sauerbraten’ and<br />
‘Schwabentopf’ are among the house specialities,<br />
and the well-stocked wine list includes around<br />
150 bins.<br />
Bergstrasse 18<br />
+49 (7931) 477882<br />
www.gruenes-stueble.de<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Ehrmann<br />
Bahnhofstrasse 9<br />
+49 (9332) 1316<br />
www.michelsstern.de<br />
<br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 7 | 10<br />
86<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
Zur Traube<br />
91477 Markt Bibart<br />
The cosy inn also includes a small farm, and much<br />
of the produce used in the kitchen hails from there.<br />
Pork chops and the spicy Bratwurst with potato<br />
salad are menu favourites.<br />
Entenstuben<br />
90489 Nürnberg<br />
Fabian Denninger has established himself at the<br />
very top of Bavarian gastronomy with his visually<br />
elaborate and reliable cooking. His creations cleverly<br />
combine modern style and tradition without<br />
losing either precision or class.<br />
Ziegenbach 8<br />
+49 (9167) 783<br />
www.gasthaus-zur-traube-ziegenbach.de<br />
Schranke 9<br />
+49 (911) 5209128<br />
www.entenstuben.de<br />
Recommended by: Weingut von der Tann<br />
Alter Esel<br />
97340 Marktbreit<br />
In the cosily-furnished restaurant, the Söder family<br />
serves food prepared according to Slow Food<br />
guidelines. Everything served here is made from<br />
regional and seasonal produce and the menu changes<br />
accordingly.<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Meier Schmidt<br />
Würzhaus <br />
90419 Nürnberg<br />
The ambience is cosy, the atmosphere hospitable<br />
and the mood always good. This is mainly due to<br />
the first-rate traditional Franconian cuisine that<br />
Diana Burkel serves for lunch and dinner. The<br />
wine list is varied and has just the right sort of wines.<br />
Photo: Philip Eichler<br />
Marktstrasse 10<br />
+49 (9332) 5949477<br />
www.alteresel-marktbreit.de<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Meintzinger<br />
Kirchenweg 3a<br />
+49 (911) 9373455<br />
www.wuerzhaus.info<br />
<br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 17 | 20<br />
Ambience: 9 | 10<br />
87<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
80–84<br />
85–89<br />
90–94<br />
95–100 Points<br />
191
Weinstube Körner <br />
97236<br />
Randersacker<br />
Game from the surrounding forests, vegetables<br />
from the Demeter-certified farm, trout from local<br />
waters: host Benedikt Schmidt loves to cook with<br />
local ingredients. This is also true for the wine cellar:<br />
only wines from Randersacker estates can be<br />
found here.<br />
Waldhaus <br />
97228 Rottendorf<br />
Located at the gates of Würzburg, the Waldhaus<br />
has been a popular destination for decades. The<br />
home-style cooking largely reflects the seasons; in<br />
addition to classics, there are daily specials and set<br />
menus. Tip: the venison steak.<br />
Würzburgerstrasse 12<br />
+49 (931) 708393<br />
www.weinstube-koerner.de<br />
<br />
Food: 42 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 16 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
84<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
Waldhaus 1<br />
+49 (9302) 92290<br />
www.waldhaus-leonhardt.de<br />
<br />
Philipp <br />
Food: 42 | 50<br />
Service: 17 | 20<br />
Drinks: 16 | 20<br />
Ambience: 7 | 10<br />
82<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
97286 Sommerhausen<br />
Michael and Heike Philipp have turned their restaurant<br />
into a haven of refined hospitality. The cuisine<br />
offers modern versions of the classics, with a<br />
complete focus on quality produce and craftsmanship.<br />
The wine list includes a good selection of<br />
regional wines.<br />
Hauptstrasse 12<br />
+49 (9333) 1406<br />
www.restaurant-philipp.de<br />
<br />
Food: 45 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 9 | 10<br />
90<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
97348 Rödelsee<br />
Gasthaus Winzerstube<br />
The Winzerstube is located in the centre of Rödelsee,<br />
in the heart of the Franconian wine region.<br />
Here, people love what is authentic – a promise<br />
that Franconian cuisine is happy to keep. Regional<br />
beers and, of course, Franconian wines are<br />
also served.<br />
Weinstock<br />
97332 Volkach<br />
This traditional inn has a 600-year history, but the<br />
cuisine of star chef Steffen Szabo is refreshingly<br />
modern and up-to-date. His creations are convincing,<br />
down to the last detail, and achieved a score<br />
of 91 points in Falstaff Magazine 07/2020.<br />
Wiesenbronner Strasse 2–4<br />
+49 (9323) 5222<br />
www.gasthaus-winzerstube.de<br />
Recommended by: Weinmanufaktur 3 Zeilen<br />
Hauptstrasse 12<br />
+49 (9381) 80660<br />
www.schwane.de<br />
Recommended by: Falstaff-Redaktion<br />
Photo: Unspecified<br />
192 falstaff<br />
Wine Guide Germany 2021
FRANKEN | INNS AND RESTAURANTS<br />
97877 Wertheim<br />
Orangerie Kloster Bronnbach<br />
The hotel and restaurant in this former abbey<br />
continue the Cistercian monks' hospitality. The<br />
down-to-earth country house cooking offers hearty<br />
dishes such as venison meat loaf, roast beef,<br />
Wiener Schnitzel and a range of Flammkuchen<br />
variations.<br />
Ratskeller<br />
97070 Würzburg<br />
The Ratskeller is located in the heart of the cathedral<br />
city. You are warmly welcomed by the landlords<br />
Monika and Kurt Schubert, who have been<br />
running this traditional inn for more than a quarter<br />
of a century. Rarities from Franken and numerous<br />
international wines are stored in the cellar.<br />
Bronnbach 10<br />
+49 (()) 9 342 935210<br />
www.hotel-kloster-bronnbach.de<br />
Langgasse 1<br />
+49 (931) 13021<br />
www.wuerzburger-ratskeller.de<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Konrad Schlör<br />
Recommended by: Staatlicher Hofkeller Würzburg<br />
Alte Mainmühle<br />
97070 Würzburg<br />
Situated directly on the old bridge over the Main,<br />
Franconian food is served in an atmospheric setting.<br />
Regional specialities such as cured shoulder<br />
of pork, Tafelspitz of veal and Sauerbraten are at<br />
the heart of the menu, accompanied by Franconian<br />
wines and beers.<br />
Reisers<br />
am Stein <br />
97080 Würzburg<br />
For many years, Bernhard Reiser has been offering<br />
creative feel-good cuisine with a difference in<br />
his tastefully decorated restaurant at the Weingut<br />
Knoll. His well-balanced, aromatic dishes are in a<br />
class of their own, accompanied by wines from<br />
the best Würzburg vineyards.<br />
Photo: Poby, USA<br />
Mainkai 1<br />
+49 (931) 16777<br />
www.alte-mainmuehle.de<br />
Recommended by: Staatlicher Hofkeller Würzburg<br />
Mittlerer Steinbergweg 5<br />
+49 (931) 286901<br />
www.der-reiser.de<br />
<br />
Food: 45 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 9 | 10<br />
90<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
80–84<br />
85–89<br />
90–94<br />
95–100 Points<br />
193
Photo: WSNA<br />
MITTELRHEIN<br />
CONTENTMENT AND CONFIDENCE
Burg Gutenfels – a single site named after the eponymous<br />
castle with inclines between 45-60%<br />
AN ELDORADO<br />
FOR WINE FREAKS<br />
A new, ambitious optimism is in the Mittelrhein air. Newcomers are enthused by<br />
the adventure of wine while established estates have set an uncompromising<br />
course for quality – even if it is getting a little hot for Riesling in some sites.<br />
WORDS RAINER SCHÄFER<br />
Jörg Lanius clambers around in the<br />
steep vineyard. His team is right in the<br />
middle of the Riesling harvest. Down<br />
in the valley, the river Rhine winds its way<br />
through a picture-book landscape. Lanius<br />
exudes contentment and confidence, and<br />
that is not solely down to the flawless grapes<br />
in the crates. What is happening right now<br />
in the Mittelrhein region is gratifying, notes<br />
the 53-year-old winemaker. He runs Weingut<br />
Lanius-Knab in Oberwesel, knows the<br />
changing fortunes of the wine business and<br />
also remembers the lows. “In my parents’<br />
and grandparents’ time the wine business<br />
just ticked along wearily,” he says, “you<br />
didn’t really want to drink these wines.” He<br />
remembers how the co-ops always harvested<br />
in the rain, just to get a few more litres of<br />
yield. “This damaged the image of the entire<br />
region,” he says. “I did not like that at all.” It<br />
is for that reason that he already tried to<br />
improve the quality of his wines at the tender<br />
age of 13. Jörg Lanius has thus lived through<br />
real structural change of the Mittelrhein: the<br />
number of people growing grapes while<br />
holding down other jobs has decreased<br />
drastically and the remaining wine estates<br />
“are on a more solid footing now.”<br />
Names like Cecilia Jost of Weingut Toni Jost<br />
or Jochen Ratzenberger are known far<br />
beyond the region and in many other estates<br />
succession is secured: a new, young generation<br />
is attracted to the work in the steep slopes<br />
and can see a future. “Right now, only those<br />
196 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
MITTELRHEIN | A PORTRAIT OF THE REGION<br />
Photos: Deutsches Weininstitut, provided<br />
who really want to work here are left,”<br />
Lanius notes. People who have a passion<br />
for viticulture. This has created a veritable<br />
boom between Königswinter and Bacharach.<br />
The last few years have seen the arrival<br />
of newcomers and career-changers, like<br />
Kay Thiele in Königswinter or Sarah Hulten<br />
who crowdsourced the financing for her<br />
first vineyard in Leutesdorf, while young<br />
winemakers like Felix Pieper and Christos<br />
Christian Theodoropoulos of Weingut<br />
Líthos were able to establish themselves.<br />
Who could have imagined that the<br />
Mittelrhein would turn into an Eldorado<br />
for wine freaks?<br />
Lanius also notes that the landscape looks<br />
much greener now as more of the fallow<br />
parcels are being recultivated. “We have<br />
vineyards of immense potential and barely<br />
anyone knows them,” he says and thinks of<br />
sites like Engehöller Bernstein am Lauerbaum.<br />
For the longest time people looked<br />
down on the Mittelrhein, thinking of it as a<br />
backwater. When people spoke of German<br />
Riesling, they raved about the famous sites<br />
of Mosel and Rheingau. “The Mittelrhein is<br />
still misunderstood,” Lanius believes, even<br />
though the proportion of Riesling is higher<br />
Self-taught organic grower and<br />
winemaker Kay Thiele<br />
Jörg and Anja Lanius, Weingut Lanius-Knab<br />
here than in Mosel and Rheingau. “We have<br />
great potential for mineral and long-lived<br />
Riesling,” he says, even though the news has<br />
not quite got around everywhere. “We no<br />
longer have to hide,” he says. “And we<br />
certainly don’t have to feel inferior.”<br />
Christiane Lambrich-Henrich of Weingut<br />
Goswin Lambrich in Oberwesel-Dellhofen is<br />
another voice of Mittelrhein confidence and<br />
contentment. She notes how the youngsters<br />
in particular stick together; if anyone<br />
encounters a problem, help is immediately at<br />
hand via digital media. This is a new kind of<br />
collaboration and cooperation, something<br />
that did not exist in the same way for<br />
previous generations. However, she is also<br />
wary of too much euphoria, not everything<br />
is rosy. Drought stress and lack of water are<br />
just two things the Mittelrhein struggles<br />
with. “In some sites it is almost getting too<br />
hot for Riesling,” the 44-year-old says. For<br />
this reason, she planted Roter Riesling some<br />
years ago. In her opinion it is better at<br />
handling these altered growing conditions.<br />
She runs the estate together with her brother<br />
Matthias Lambrich and spends a lot of time<br />
thinking about the future. “We wonder<br />
what we can plant in the hot sites in the<br />
long term,” she says, noting that Merlot or<br />
Cabernet-Sauvignon might be appealing,<br />
197
Christiane Lambrich-Henrich and her brother Matthias<br />
are the third generation running the family estate<br />
however, for the time being they are trying to<br />
create the best possible conditions for<br />
Riesling. Its future, she says, “lies in the<br />
lateral valleys where the grapes are not<br />
exposed to the intense midday sun.” She<br />
adds that the Mittelrhein has learned from<br />
the mistakes of the past: It was not even that<br />
long ago that “Riesling was pushed aside in<br />
favour of lesser varieties.” Quantity instead<br />
of quality: this is a mistake nobody can afford<br />
to repeat. In this respect there is<br />
consensus in the Mittelrhein: “Riesling will<br />
remain our great strength.”<br />
INFO<br />
Read more about this author in our Tasting Panel<br />
chapter on page 12.<br />
MITTELRHEIN WINE REGION<br />
Growing area<br />
approx. 460 hectares<br />
Administrative Split<br />
2 districts (Bereiche), 10 collective sites<br />
(Grosslagen), 111 single sites (Einzellagen)<br />
Soils<br />
Slate, greywacke<br />
Important Grape Variety<br />
Riesling<br />
Winegrowers’ Association<br />
Mittelrhein-Wein e. V.<br />
Am Hafen 2, 56329 Sankt Goar<br />
www.mittelrhein-wein.com<br />
198 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
MITTELRHEIN | GRANDS CRUS<br />
Bopparder Hamm – vines have taken advantage of the natural<br />
properties of this majestic slope ever since the 7th century<br />
GRANDS CRUS – MITTELRHEIN<br />
TOP WINES FROM PRIVILEGED SITES OF THE REGION<br />
Photos: Katharina Bach, DWI, provided<br />
BACHARACH | HAHN<br />
This site of Devonian slate of almost<br />
6ha/15 acres is a monopole of Weingut<br />
Toni Jost. Its knoll stretches from the river<br />
Rhine into a smaller, lateral valley. The<br />
Rhine-facing parcels have an east-southeastern<br />
aspect but most of the site faces<br />
south and southeast. It rises from<br />
80-210m/262-688ft with inclines between<br />
55-70%. Due to its stoniness and shallow<br />
topsoils, drip irrigation systems have been<br />
installed.<br />
94 2019 » Im Hahn« Riesling GG<br />
93 2019 Riesling Auslese<br />
92 2019 Riesling Erste Lage trocken<br />
90 2019 Riesling Kabinett feinherb<br />
Weingut Toni Jost, further info on page 201<br />
BOPPARD | HAMM<br />
Hamm is not only a vineyard but also a<br />
district of Boppard. This majestic site is<br />
divided into the parcels of Feuerlay,<br />
Ohlenberg, Engelstein, Mandelstein and<br />
Fässerlay.The subsoil is Devonian slate<br />
throughout, it is only the topsoil that varies<br />
from weathered shale of grey, green and<br />
red colour to deep, calcareous loam.<br />
Pumice and quartzite also occur.<br />
92 2019 Ohlenberg Riesling Spätlese* tr.<br />
92 2019 Feuerlay Riesling<br />
Spätlese* trocken<br />
Weingut Weingart,<br />
www.weingut-weingart.de<br />
92 2019 Feuerlay Riesling Spätlese trocken<br />
Weinhaus Heilig Grab, www.heiliggrab.de<br />
91 2019 Fässerlay Riesling Kabinett<br />
halbtrocken<br />
Weingut August Perll,<br />
further info on page 206<br />
199
KOBLENZ<br />
Mosel<br />
Rhine<br />
Selected Grand Cru Sites<br />
Vineyard Area<br />
Villages<br />
HAMM<br />
Boppard<br />
ÖLSBERG<br />
HAHN<br />
St. Goar<br />
Oberwesel<br />
Bacharach<br />
91 2019 Ohlenberg<br />
Riesling Spätlese trocken<br />
Weingut Weingart, www.weingut-weingart.de<br />
91 2019 Fässerlay Riesling Spätlese<br />
Weinhaus Heilig Grab, www.heiliggrab.de<br />
OBERWESEL | OELSBERG<br />
The Oelsberg lies to the north of Oberwesel<br />
in a bend of the river Rhine. This 5.8ha/14.3<br />
acre site has rich soil: a geological fault<br />
caused Triassic red sandstone to reach the<br />
surface which is mixed with weathered slate<br />
and loess. The south-facing slope has a<br />
homogenous incline between 60-70% and<br />
benefits climatically from the river which is<br />
particularly wide here.<br />
93 2019 Riesling GG<br />
93 2018 Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Lanius-Knab, further info on page 204<br />
Vineyards on the Oelsberg near Oberwesel<br />
200 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Mittelrhein | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT TONI JOST –<br />
HAHNENHOF<br />
Oberstrasse 14, 55422 Bacharach<br />
T: +49 (6743) 1216, weingut@tonijost.de<br />
www.tonijost.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Cecilia Jost<br />
Contact: Cecilia and Peter Jost<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 100,000 (80 % white, 20 % red)/15 ha<br />
92 2019 Bacharach Hahn Riesling trocken<br />
Present fruit on the nose. Some tangerine, also tropical fruit<br />
hints, red-green fruit and a hint of spice. Dense on the palate,<br />
but fresh and lively. Juicy, concentrated, then grippy and<br />
mineral, becoming more focused with a lively acidic structure<br />
and citric pull. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
The father-daughter team formed by Cecilia<br />
and Peter Jost – the sixth and fifth<br />
generation at this estate, respectively –<br />
runs like clockwork. Crystalline in expression,<br />
intense in extract but also fine-boned in style –<br />
that is what the wines are like and what we<br />
have learned to expect from this cellar. And indeed,<br />
the wines presented this year do not disappoint.<br />
Even without the Grosses Gewächs<br />
and the Spatburgunder, all the wines we tasted<br />
scored top marks. Where else would you get<br />
that much Riesling for your money in this midprice<br />
segment? Just think of “Jodokus” or<br />
“Devon S”!<br />
89 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
91 2019 »Devon S« Riesling trocken<br />
Mineral, clear, yet also deep. Citrus notes, a hint of light<br />
peach, a notion of delicate blossoms followed by stone and<br />
some herbaceous scents. Clear on the palate, then delicatelyconcentrated<br />
sweet citrus fruit, stony minerality and fresh<br />
juiciness. Becomes increasingly salty and finely-juicy towards<br />
the finish. 12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 Bacharach Riesling Kabinett feinherb<br />
Ripe red apple on the nose, lean and fresh on the palate, given<br />
the juicy vintage acidity, the sweetness interplay remains<br />
restrained. However, its texture gives the wine excellent potential.<br />
Good, substantial length. 12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
93 2019 Bacharach Riesling Auslese<br />
Yellow fruit, fine honey notes and hints of light blossoms.<br />
Stone fruit on the palate, creamy and intergrated, with delicate<br />
but firm, citric acidity. A wine with a lively, animating ray<br />
of acidity in the middle. An immensely stylish Auslese.<br />
9 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 »Jodocus« Riesling trocken<br />
A rich, juicy nose, yellow-green fruit and a hint of spice.<br />
Full-bodied on the palate without heaviness. Animating<br />
with a lot of freshness and lively, finely-salty acidity. Berry<br />
notes, fresh pome fruit, some tart herbs and ripe citrus<br />
fruit. Great drinking pleasure! 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
201
KAY WEINE<br />
Bergstrasse 45, 53639 Königswinter<br />
T: +49 (170) 4173317, hallo@kay-weine.de<br />
www.kay-weine.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Kay Thiel<br />
Contact: Kay Thiel<br />
Hectares: 2 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
Kay Thiel reports that his winery “grew<br />
from tiny to small”: Indeed, this winemaker<br />
in Königswinter doubled his, by<br />
now, organically-certified vineyards to almost<br />
two hectares. His steep sites of various soil<br />
types like clay, greywacke and slate are dispersed<br />
across 35km along the river Rhine in<br />
the villages of Niederdollendorf, Dattenberg<br />
and Leutesdorf. After his successful debut in<br />
the guide last year, his wines have gained even<br />
more in stylistic confidence and individual expression.<br />
What Thiel delivers really is an asset<br />
to the Mittelrhein wine scene!<br />
91 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
Notes of spontaneous fermentation in the multi-layered<br />
nose, herbs, yellow fruit, apricot and apple followed by some<br />
malt and yellow floral hints. On the palate there is an energetic<br />
acidity flanked by salty notes in a slender structure.<br />
Lots of content, taut and young. 12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 Frühburgunder trocken<br />
Sweet cherry and raspberry on the nose, floral notes of violet<br />
followed by wet leather and also a dash of rosehip. On the<br />
palate there is a supple onset and a soft foundation, finelychiselled<br />
ripe acidity, clear and undisguised with finely-extracted<br />
tannin. An elegant style. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 Elbling Landwein feinherb<br />
89 2018 »Cuvee Henry« brut<br />
Sparkling wine with the curious partners of Elbling, Riesling<br />
and Gelber Malinger. Ripe yellow fruit is accompanied by apple<br />
notes and fine yeasty nuances. Juicy on the palate with<br />
fresh acidity and good spice. Texture and sweet fruit nuances<br />
blend into a generously good balance.<br />
11,5 Vol.-%. agglomerated cork, €€<br />
91 2018 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Cherry and wild strawberry on the nose, herbs, floral hints of<br />
violets and lavender with nuances of toasty aromas. Powerful<br />
and emphatically dry on the palate, almost demanding in<br />
expression, the ripe acidity provides balance, spiciness and<br />
also fine savouriness. Precise tannins, elegant and long.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 Gelber Malinger trocken<br />
Apricot, apple, yeast-based pastry and some vanilla aromas<br />
on the nose. On the palate juicy and poised by fine<br />
spice with apple notes reappearing. Clear, almost crystalline<br />
with a well-integrated vein of acidity in a slender body.<br />
Fine phenolics. Natural character.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
202 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEIN- UND SEKTGUT<br />
GOSWIN LAMBRICH<br />
Mittelrhein | WINERIES<br />
Auf der Kripp 3, 55430 Oberwesel-Dellhofen<br />
T: +49 (6744) 8066, info@weingut-lambrich.de<br />
www.weingut-lambrich.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8.30–12.30 hrs<br />
and 14–18 hrs, Saturdays 9–12.30 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Christiane Lambrich-Henrich<br />
Contact: Matthias Lambrich and Christiane<br />
Lambrich-Henrich<br />
Hectares: 16 ha<br />
Attention please! This winery, owned by<br />
siblings Christiane Lambrich-Henrich<br />
and Matthias Lambrich, really scores<br />
with its dry village Riesling which – despite 14%<br />
ABV – does not show the least trace of heat, with<br />
its juicy and mineral Auslese and even with a<br />
full-bodied and spicy red blend. Surprisingly, a<br />
few years ago, such diversity would have seemed<br />
impossible and you would certainly not have<br />
suspected it in the Mittelrhein. All the better<br />
then, despite all of the variation, that the core<br />
identity of Riesling is maintained, especially<br />
when it comes to the lighter weight classes. We<br />
cannot wait to taste the next vintage.<br />
89 2019 Oberwesel Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Reductive fragrance but aerates positively. On the palate<br />
juicy, taut, crunchy acidity, good density, scratchy-vegetal<br />
finish. A fresh, slightly greenish, but, at the same time, substantial<br />
varietal style. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
91 2015 »Cuvee Gowin« trocken<br />
Dark berry on the nose, semi-bitter chocolate and a note of<br />
plum. On the palate dense, full and smooth, well-integrated<br />
wood, juiciness with well-controlled power. The wine keeps a<br />
Mittelrhein coolness despite its density. Great length. Can<br />
mature further. 14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
93 2019 Oberwesel St. Martinsberg<br />
Riesling Auslese<br />
Subtle slate-spicy scents, delicate botrytis with notes of sultana<br />
and candied fruit, pear and a hint of cassata. Smooth on<br />
the palate, slightly viscous, then poised by juicy acidity and<br />
comparatively-restrained sweetness. Mineral-juicy finish of<br />
medium intensity. 8 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
92 2019 Dellhofen St. Wernerberg<br />
Riesling Spätlese<br />
A late-harvest fragrance with lots of fragrant tropical fruit,<br />
pineapple, banana and mango. On the palate a little more<br />
slender than the bouquet would lead one to expect, intense<br />
in acidity, intense in sweetness, a little carbon dioxide, minerality<br />
with a hint of sulphur. Needs time and will eventually<br />
emerge as brilliant. 7,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 »Hochgewächs« Oberwesel<br />
Riesling halbtrocken<br />
90 2019 »Vollsteil« Oberwesel Riesling feinherb<br />
90 2019 Oberwesel St. Martinsberg<br />
Roter Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 »Hochgewächs« Oberwesel Riesling tr.<br />
89 2018 »Im Barrique gereift« Oberwesel<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
87 2019 »Cuvee Gowin« feinherb<br />
88 2018 Oberwesel Spätburgunder trocken<br />
90 2019 »Blauschiefer« Oberwesel Riesling tr.<br />
Balsamic aroma, followed by apricot kernel and tangerine<br />
scents. On the palate there is some texture, full-bodied,<br />
rich in extract, slight sweetness and clear mineral undertones.<br />
A bold construction, but holds together well. Fruit<br />
and spice in balance. Good length. 14 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
203
WEINGUT LANIUS-KNAB<br />
Mainzer Strasse 38, 55430 Oberwesel<br />
T: +49 (6744) 8104, weingut@lanius-knab.de<br />
www.lanius-knab.de<br />
Cellar Door: daily from 9–18 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Jörg Lanius<br />
Contact: Jörg Lanius<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 55,000 (90 % white, 10 % red)/11ha<br />
Jörg Lanius is 53 years old but already has<br />
40 years of winery work under his belt.<br />
“In the Mittelrhein region, I am the<br />
youngest of the older winemakers,” he says.<br />
The fact that he started lending a hand at his parental<br />
estate from age 13 onwards was down to<br />
the then rather poor wine quality of the region.<br />
Ever since, he has “tried to improve.” This striving<br />
for quality is expressed in his wines. His<br />
Grosses Gewächs from the Lauerbaum site<br />
convinces with freshness, volume and minerality.<br />
The Auslese from the Bernstein site is focused<br />
and silkily-integrated. A really strong performance<br />
from this youthful old master.<br />
93 2018 Engehöll Bernstein Am Lauerbaum<br />
Riesling GG<br />
Fine spicy nose, bright yellow fruit nuances and some herbaceous<br />
notes. Delicate fruit sweetness on the palate, lively<br />
with clear volume and juiciness. Fresh, concentrated stone<br />
fruit, and stony minerality. Tart hints, fine spiciness, complemented<br />
by a citrus-fresh acidic structure.<br />
14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
93 2018 Oberwesel Oelsberg Riesling GG<br />
Deep, spicy, clear with mineral nuances on the nose.<br />
Mouth-filling on the palate, juicy and concentrated, then flowing.<br />
In the middle, fruity-sweet apple, some tart herbs. The<br />
acidity is integrated, but subtle in its pull. Fine spiciness and<br />
more dark minerality on the finish. 14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
94 2019 Engehöll Bernstein Riesling Auslese<br />
Intergrated, creamy, light fruit scents and stony nuances on<br />
the nose followed by cherry blossom and peach. Concentrated<br />
and focused on the palate. Fresh, fine sweetness, silky interwoven,<br />
yet lively, mineral, fresh with taut, finely salty, juicy<br />
acidity. 9 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
92 2019 Oberwesel In der Rheinhell<br />
Riesling Auslese<br />
Notes of pear and stone on the nose. Focused on the palate<br />
with imminent tension and fine spiciness. Finely-integrated<br />
mouthfeel, followed by fine grip and citrusy, juicy acidity.<br />
Fresh pear, nice flow. Fine minerality and nuances.<br />
10 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
91 2019 Engehöll Bernstein Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 Engehöll Bernstein Riesling feinherb<br />
89 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 Riesling feinherb<br />
89 2019 »Rheingold« Oberwesel<br />
Riesling feinherb<br />
87 2019 Oberwesel Spätburgunder Rosé tr.<br />
92 2019 Engehöll Bernstein Riesling Spätlese<br />
91 2019 »Rheinschiefer« Oberwesel<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Round and clear on the nose. Full fruit without too much<br />
warmth, rather complemented by fine, spicy-slate minerality,<br />
a hint of blossoms, fresh, juicy apple, some stone<br />
fruit and fine citric acidity. Releasing subtle spiciness and<br />
tart nuances towards the finish. 14 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
204 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT LITHOS<br />
Mittelrhein | WINERIES<br />
Am Weinberg 78, 55430 Oberwesel-Weilerboppard<br />
T: +49 (6744) 9491031, info@weingutlithos.de<br />
www.weingutlithos.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Christos Christian Theodoropoulos<br />
Contact: Christos Christian Theodoropoulos<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 10,000 (80 % white, 20 % red)/3 ha<br />
Each year, there are small but distinct advances<br />
in the wines made by Christos C.<br />
Theodoropoulos. The wines’ focus becomes<br />
ever clearer, the courage to be artisanal<br />
ever more apparent. We wine lovers are the beneficiaries<br />
of this evolution: there is a crystal clear<br />
rosé, a juicy but very fine “red” (from Spätburgunder<br />
and Schwarzriesling) as well as a medium-dry<br />
Riesling which hits that elusive nail of<br />
maximum elegance on the head. You can get all<br />
of this for less than EUR 10.00 per bottle: in a region<br />
where the vines are on steep slopes and<br />
everything has to be done by hand. You’ll only<br />
have yourself to blame if you don’t stock up here.<br />
89 2019 »Der Weisse« trocken<br />
Freshly-sliced Williams pear on the nose. On the palate there<br />
is a hint of slate-peppery hints, but overall not too complicated,<br />
good density, firm acidic composition. A content-rich<br />
structure for an entry-level wine, real "drinkability".<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2019 »Der Rote« trocken<br />
Sweet cherry, cherry stones and some slight spontaneous<br />
fermentation notes. On the palate there is an elegant structure:<br />
lots of juice, fine-grained tannins in a rather restrained<br />
extracted amount, beautiful Pinot fruit. A simple Pinot without<br />
much fuss and exactly for that reason - really noble.<br />
12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 Riesling feinherb<br />
90 2019 Rosé trocken<br />
Pastel coloured hues. Scents of apple peel, rosehip and<br />
plum. Juicy and fresh on the palate, sweet fruit, good density,<br />
light almond tones on the finish. A very clear rosé, quite<br />
accurate in its fruit, with beautiful, unaffected freshness.<br />
11,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
92 2018 Engehöll Bernstein<br />
Spätburgunder Barrique trocken<br />
Gingerbread spice, Amarena cherry, blackberry and spicyslate<br />
scents. Low sulphur. On the palate substance, grainy,<br />
fleshy, very dense, almost massive, with sweet fruit and a<br />
powerful body but with smooth foundations and a juicy fruit<br />
finish. Awesome! 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
91 2019 Riesling halbtrocken<br />
Closed on the nose, lemon peel, smoky-mineral nuances,<br />
seems very clear, but also still very young. On the palate<br />
there is good extract and good tension, fresh acidity, restrained<br />
sweetness, clear tactile minerality. Semi-dry in a<br />
purist style.! 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
205
WEINGUT AUGUST PERLL<br />
Oberstrasse 77–81, 56154 Boppard<br />
T: +49 (6742) 3906, post@perll.de<br />
www.perll.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Thomas August Perll<br />
Contact: Thomas August Perll<br />
Hectares: 9 ha<br />
In this super-talented region, it is family-run<br />
wine estates like that of Thomas<br />
August Perll who ensure that viticulture<br />
will continue in these steep slopes where cultivation<br />
is difficult and cumbersome. Each little<br />
grape is earned by the sweat of the brow in<br />
these unforgiving vineyards. Notwithstanding<br />
this, the wines always have a generosity that<br />
encourages you to take a big sip: like the animating<br />
medium-dry Kabinett from the Fässerlay<br />
site. The 2019 vintage thus delivered both<br />
dry and medium-dry Auslese styles: a new image<br />
of this region amidst global warming.<br />
91 2019 Boppard Hamm Fässerlay<br />
Riesling Kabinett halbtrocken<br />
Pale golden yellow. On the nose a medium intensity of ripe<br />
apple, grapefruit and lemon zest. On the palate quite intense<br />
flavours of honeysuckle, lemon and delicate herbal spices<br />
embraced by a very lively acidity with medium body and a<br />
good finish. 12,5 Vol.-%. synthetic closure , €<br />
of rose blossoms followed by lemon zest and green apple. On<br />
the palate powerful, spicy with fresh primary fruit and lively<br />
acidity. Sufficient structure and good finish.<br />
8 Vol.-%. synthetic closure , €€<br />
88 2019 Boppard Hamm Mandelstein<br />
Riesling Auslese trocken<br />
89 2019 Boppard Hamm Fässerlay<br />
Riesling Spätlese trocken<br />
Yellow-fruited scents followed by notes of Auslese. Powerful<br />
on the palate, underlying acidity, gaining intensity on the finish,<br />
not least due to stronger composed phenolics. A sturdy,<br />
substantial and almost atypical powerful Mittelrhein Riesling.<br />
13 Vol.-%. synthetic closure , €<br />
89 2019 Boppard Hamm Feuerlay<br />
Riesling Spätlese halbtrocken<br />
Some hints of botrytis on the nose, honey notes like clover<br />
honey, slate nuances, yellow-fruits and a dash of bergamot.<br />
Very sweet on the palate, elegant, but compared to the intense<br />
sweetness a rather restrained acidity. Needs time to<br />
evolve. 12,5 Vol.-%. synthetic closure , €<br />
91 2019 Boppard Hamm Mandelstein<br />
Riesling Auslese<br />
Medium lemon yellow. On the nose subtle and a breezy whiff<br />
89 2019 Boppard Hamm Feuerlay<br />
Riesling Kabinett<br />
Medium lemon yellow reflections. Very ripe nose with aromas<br />
of yellow apple, mango, pineapple and some fruitflavoured<br />
sweets. On the palate there is medium body,<br />
a recognisable structure and lots of primary, sweet fruit<br />
sufficiently -balanced by vintage-typical juicy acidity.<br />
9,5 Vol.-%, synthetic closure, €<br />
206 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT PIEPER<br />
Mittelrhein | WINERIES<br />
Hauptstrasse 458, 53639 Königswinter<br />
T: +49 (22 23) 22 650, info@weingut-pieper.de<br />
www.weingut-pieper.de<br />
Cellar Door: Tuesdays, Wednesday, Fridays and Satur days<br />
16.30–23 hrs, Sundays 12–22 hrs and by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Felix Pieper<br />
Contact: Adolf Wilhelm Pieper<br />
Hectares: 9 ha<br />
When Rieslings of so much substance,<br />
minerality and precision are sold at<br />
prices sometimes well below the<br />
ten-Euro-mark, you can bet your bottom dollar<br />
that the winemaker is driven by an extra bit<br />
of passion and lifeblood. How else could you<br />
explain the fact that these wines from the<br />
northernmost part of the Mittelrhein region,<br />
already in the federal state of Nordrhein-Westfalen,<br />
are so ripe and rich and sometimes almost<br />
have a taste of the south about them?<br />
The work in the steep slopes is a grind – and<br />
together with his family, Felix Pieper cultivates<br />
almost nine hectares of them. Chapeau!<br />
93 2019 »Domkaule« Rhöndorf Riesling tr.<br />
Grated apple with hints of balsamic and spontaneous fermentation<br />
aromas. Salty on the palate, good density, subtle<br />
phenolics, taut acidity. A zesty Riesling with considerable extract<br />
and depth, with striking tactile minerality and excellent<br />
potential. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
92 2019 »Fumé« Leutesdorf Gartenlay<br />
Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Balsamic, chalky tones alongside zesty varietal fruit, red<br />
gooseberry, kiwi, black pepper and herbal aromas. Sweet fruit,<br />
lively but cultivated acidity, a full-bodied and, at the same<br />
time fresh, elegant Sauvignon Blanc. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
92 2019 »Septimontium« Königswinter<br />
Drachenfels Riesling trocken<br />
Tangerine and freshly-grated lemon peel, blood orange and<br />
lemon balm notes. Smooth onset, very round and poised by<br />
sweet fruit, very good density, seamlessly-integrated acidity.<br />
A Riesling as a bundle of joy, long and complex on the finish.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
92 2019 Königswinter Drachenfels<br />
Riesling Spätlese<br />
A slight hint of petrol, apricot and notes of yoghurt. Quite<br />
corpulent on the palate, silky phenolics, striking sweetness<br />
and an acidity that slowly concentrates on the palate. Powerful<br />
and compact, good potential for complexity, needs<br />
time. 8,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
91 2019 Königswinter<br />
Drachenfels Chardonnay trocken<br />
91 2019 »Drachenlay« Königswinter<br />
Drachenfels Riesling Kabinett<br />
91 2019 »Rüdenet« Königswinter<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 Königswinter Drachenfels GV tr.<br />
90 2019 »Trachyt« Riesling trocken<br />
90 2017 »Mönchenberg« Rhöndorf<br />
Drachenfels Spätburgunder trocken<br />
90 2019 Rhöndorf Drachenfels<br />
Ehrenfelser Spätlese<br />
92 2019 Königswinter Drachenfels<br />
Gewürztraminer & Riesling<br />
A nuanced, unobtrusive spiciness followed by rose, anise,<br />
but also Riesling fruit – very clear in all components.<br />
Finely-balanced on the palate: Riesling acidity and<br />
Gewürztraminer body, good substantial density, aromatically<br />
intense, but also minerally well-defined.<br />
11,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
207
WEINGUT RATZENBERGER<br />
Blücherstrasse 167, 55422 Bacharach<br />
T: +49 (6743) 1337, weingut-ratzenberger@t-online.de<br />
www.weingut-ratzenberger.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Jochen Ratzenberger<br />
Contact: Jochen Ratzenberger<br />
Hectares: 23 ha<br />
In 2019, as in previous years, Jochen<br />
Ratzenberger proved himself to be a master<br />
across all classes and categories of<br />
Riesling: his spectrum encompasses everything<br />
from an elated, off-dry Kabinett via expressive,<br />
dry Rieslings all the way to nobly sweet<br />
rarities – while his enlivening Sekt “Pinot”<br />
from 2015 absolutely deserves mention. The<br />
magnificently dry Riesling “St. Jost” shows<br />
wonderful density and yet remains slender. It is<br />
only surpassed by the exquisite Beerenauslese<br />
from the same site which enthuses with its<br />
concentrated yet subtle and refined style.<br />
Wonderful!<br />
93 2019 Steeg St. Jost Riesling trocken<br />
Some damp stone and ripe yellow apple on the nose. On the<br />
palate there follows a nice, mineral tension. Aromatic density<br />
with tones of mirabelle plum and dried apricot. The acidity<br />
contributes to a wonderful, dense overall impression.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2019 Bacharach Riesling Kabinett feinherb<br />
91 2015 Bacharach »Pinot« brut<br />
Smoky notes on the nose with stone fruit and apple. Taut and<br />
compact on the palate with creamy substance, full-bodied<br />
and juicy with a slender body supported by ripe acidity with a<br />
fine mousse. The wine depicts the terroir of Bacharach and<br />
the fine slate notes. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
95 2019 Steeg St. Jost Riesling Beerenauslese<br />
Concentrated citrus fruit, candied lemon peel, quince, some<br />
slate, white pepper and hints of clear but distinct botrytis. On<br />
the palate slender and juicy, built entirely on elegance, nuances<br />
of pear and white currant too. A very subtle and refined<br />
wine. 7,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2019 Bacharach Wolfshöhle Riesling Auslese<br />
Medium ruby. Exciting nose of cool smoke, nobly-ripe cherries<br />
and ripe raspberries. On the palate, the perfectly-integrated<br />
acidity cushions the afore mentioned flavours, complemented<br />
by a light herbal note. The medium body ends in a<br />
long finish, finely crafted. 8 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2019 Bacharach Riesling trocken<br />
Very delicate tones of green apple on the nose. Wonderfully<br />
fresh, animating acidity that goes very well with the subtle<br />
aromatics. The typical local minerality blends in wonderfully.<br />
An Ortswein with a wonderful flow that is simply a<br />
pleasure to drink. 12 Vol.-%, cork, €<br />
208 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
MITTELRHEIN MITTELRHEIN | INNS AND RESTAURANTS<br />
| GASTGEBER<br />
Oberwesel<br />
PASSIONATE<br />
HOSTS<br />
TOGETHER WITH THE REGION’S WINEMAKERS – ABSOLUTE EXPERTS<br />
WHEN IT COMES TO GASTRONOMY – FALSTAFF HAS CAREFULLY CHOSEN<br />
AND COLLATED THE BEST ADDRESSES FOR EATING,<br />
DRINKING AND STAYING.<br />
Purs<br />
56626 Andernach<br />
In the restaurant, decorated with a real sense of<br />
style, Christian Eckhardt and his team offer superior<br />
gourmet cooking at the highest level. Every<br />
dish on the well-thought-out menu is an aromatic<br />
highlight, and the extensive wine list leaves nothing<br />
to be desired.<br />
Yoso<br />
56626 Andernach<br />
A modern bistro with a Far Eastern flair. Multifaceted<br />
Asian dishes come from Sarah Henke's open<br />
kitchen, each one a small aromatic masterpiece.<br />
You shouldn't limit yourself to sushi, but follow<br />
the staff recommendations.<br />
Steinweg 30-32<br />
+49 (2632) 9586750<br />
www.purs.com<br />
Schafbachstrasse 14<br />
+49 (2632) 4998643<br />
www.yoso-restaurant.de<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Josten & Klein<br />
MITTELRHEIN<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Josten & Klein<br />
80–84<br />
85–89<br />
90–94<br />
95–100 Points<br />
209
Altkölnischer Hof<br />
55422 Bacharach<br />
In this imposing half-timbered house you can not<br />
only stay in comfortable rooms, but also enjoy<br />
excellent food. Game dishes, Sauerbraten, beef<br />
roulade and grilled salmon are the house specialities<br />
in this worthwhile historic atmosphere.<br />
Waidblick<br />
56154 Boppard<br />
The restaurant, a successful symbiosis of traditional<br />
ambience and modern furnishings, offers international<br />
classics and regional dishes, as well as<br />
hearty game specialities hunted locally. These are<br />
accompanied by wines from the restaurant's own<br />
vineyard.<br />
Blücherstrasse 2<br />
+49 (6743) 94778<br />
www.altkoelnischer-hof.de<br />
Im Tal der Loreley<br />
+49 (6742) 8080<br />
www.jakobsberg.de<br />
Recommended by: Falstaff-Redaktion<br />
Le Chopin<br />
56154 Boppard<br />
Le Chopin is the hotel's gourmet restaurant. The<br />
art nouveau ambience blends perfectly with the<br />
impressive architecture of the building. The wine<br />
list shines with its focus on the Mittelrhein region,<br />
as well as wines from domestic and international<br />
wine regions.<br />
Rheinallee 41<br />
+49 (6742) 1020<br />
www.bellevue-boppard.de<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Ratzenberger<br />
Recommended by: Falstaff-Redaktion<br />
Altes Brauhaus<br />
56068 Koblenz<br />
The unfussy cooking, served in an atmospheric<br />
ambience, goes well with the freshly-tapped beer.<br />
The ‘Schnitzel Parade’ is just as popular as ‘mother's<br />
potato stew with black pudding’, the crispy<br />
pork knuckle or the huge Bratwurst.<br />
Braugasse 4<br />
+49 (261) 1330377<br />
www.altesbrauhaus-koblenz.de<br />
Recommended by: Falstaff-Redaktion<br />
Photo: www.guido-werner.comoffice@guido-werner.comGermany0700 230 230 302008<br />
210 falstaff<br />
Wine Guide Germany 2021
Augusta <br />
56068 Koblenz<br />
The beautiful and cosy atmosphere is just one plus<br />
point of the restaurant, which is not far from the<br />
Deutsches Eck headland. The many regulars<br />
appreciate the reliable and seasonally-fresh cooking<br />
which is prepared according to Slow Food guidelines.<br />
MITTELRHEIN | INNS AND RESTAURANTS<br />
55413 Oberheimbach<br />
Weinberg-Schlösschen<br />
Brothers Marc and Florian Lambrich offer regional,<br />
fresh cuisine with a twist alongside great Mittelrhein<br />
wines at this family hotel in a picturesque<br />
setting in the Rhine Valley. Locally hunted game is<br />
a house speciality. Pure country pleasure.<br />
Rheinstrasse 2a<br />
+49 (261) 91446822<br />
www.augusta-koblenz.de<br />
<br />
Im Süden <br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
87<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
56068 Koblenz<br />
Off to the south? In this small bar, you can get a<br />
taste of the Mediterranean lifestyle! In addition to<br />
a good selection of delicatessen, the young team<br />
offers delicious salads, pizzas with imaginative<br />
toppings and fresh homemade pasta of the finest<br />
quality in a relaxed atmosphere.<br />
Hauptstrasse 2<br />
+49 (6743) 9471840<br />
www.weinberg-schloesschen.de<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Weber<br />
Markenbildchenweg 30<br />
+49 (261) 29670990<br />
www.imsüden-feinkost-kochbar.de<br />
<br />
Food: 42 | 50<br />
Service: 16 | 20<br />
Drinks: 16 | 20<br />
Ambience: 9 | 10<br />
83<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
Jesuiter Hof<br />
53639 Königswinter<br />
Delicious wines from Drachenfels are the flagship<br />
of this family-run estate at the Jesuiter Hof which<br />
also includes a cosy Weinstube. Down-to-earth<br />
homecooking is the attraction here, served in hearty<br />
portions.<br />
Auf Schönburg<br />
55430 Oberwesel<br />
If you are looking for Rheinromantik at its best,<br />
you will find it at this homely castle. Guests enjoy<br />
country cooking in the unique ambience of the<br />
lovingly-decorated dining room. Of course this<br />
works best with a local Mittelrhein wine.<br />
Photo: www.antoniosaba.com<br />
Hauptstrasse 458<br />
+49 (2223) 22650<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Pieper<br />
Auf Schönburg<br />
+49 (6744) 93930<br />
www.hotel-schoenburg.com<br />
Recommended by: Falstaff-Redaktion<br />
80–84<br />
85–89<br />
90–94<br />
95–100 Points<br />
211
Zum Kronprinzen <br />
55430 Oberwesel<br />
The romantic Mittelrhein Valley is the ideal backdrop<br />
for this beautiful country hotel, nestled in<br />
idyllic nature. In the hotel's own restaurant,<br />
guests enjoy hearty and down-to-earth cooking<br />
that also includes international classics.<br />
Rheinhöhenstrasse 45<br />
+49 (6744) 94319<br />
www.hotel-kronprinzen.de<br />
<br />
Food: 42 | 50<br />
Service: 17 | 20<br />
Drinks: 17 | 20<br />
Ambience: 7 | 10<br />
83<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
Puricelli<br />
55413 Trechtingshausen<br />
In addition to modern hotel rooms, the exquisitely-restored<br />
castle also houses a stylish restaurant<br />
with ambitious cuisine serving both refined<br />
classics and down-to-earth dishes with a twist.<br />
The wine list features the best wines from the Mittelrhein.<br />
Burgweg 24<br />
+49 (6721) 6117<br />
www.burg-reichenstein.com<br />
Interieur No. 253<br />
53424 Remagen<br />
An unusual mix of wine bar, bistro and restaurant,<br />
as well as one of the most beautiful cafés in<br />
the country with colourful and cheerful elements.<br />
Lots of wines by the glass, sparkling wines and<br />
Champagnes, all working well with the oysters,<br />
lobster soup and monkfish that feature.<br />
Recommended by: Falstaff-Redaktion<br />
Klein's Fronhof <br />
56333 Winningen<br />
This tastefully decorated restaurant is a haven of<br />
good German cooking. Of course, the Kraftbrühe<br />
with Markklösschen is a must, as are the classic<br />
schnitzel variations and braised ox cheeks. Everything<br />
is of the best quality and perfectly prepared.<br />
Hans-Arp-Allee 1<br />
+49 (2228) 911111<br />
www.interieur-no253.de<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Nikolaus Köwerich<br />
Fronstrasse 2<br />
+49 (2606) 435<br />
www.fronhof-stuben.de<br />
<br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 17 | 20<br />
Drinks: 16 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
84<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
212 falstaff<br />
Wine Guide Germany 2021
SPACE FOR YOUR<br />
WINE NOTES<br />
213
Photos: Weingut Van Volxem<br />
MOSEL<br />
QUALITY-FOCUSED<br />
INDIVIDUALISTS
The Mosel loop with Marienburg Castle at Pündericher<br />
(today it houses an education centre of the bishopric of Trier)<br />
MUCH MORE THAN SLATE,<br />
STEEPNESS AND SWEETNESS<br />
For consumers across the world, wines from Mosel, Saar and Ruwer are<br />
still synonymous with German Riesling. For buyers, sommeliers and some<br />
consumers, however, the image of the region has changed in recent years –<br />
even if we are speaking about evolution rather than revolution.<br />
WORDS THOMAS CURTIUS MW<br />
What do top Rieslings from Mosel,<br />
Saar and Ruwer have in common<br />
with top Pinots from<br />
Burgundy’s Côte d’Or? Both are something<br />
like the gold standard for their respective<br />
grape varieties. Where Riesling and Pinot<br />
Noir are concerned, their style and expression<br />
are unique, inimitable and a point of reference<br />
for many winemakers, sommeliers and wine<br />
writers across the globe. No matter whether<br />
I am in Australia’s Clare Valley, in Washington<br />
State, in London or in Hong Kong:<br />
when colleagues and I exchange our most<br />
memorable Riesling encounters, names like<br />
Nies’chen, Scharzhofberg, Prälat, Sonnenuhr<br />
or Uhlen always crop up. “The magic of<br />
freshness, tenderness and this perfect<br />
interplay of acid and sweetness makes the<br />
wines from Mosel, Saar and Ruwer incredibly<br />
exciting,” says Corinne Mui, chief operating<br />
officer of the Asian Wine Service and<br />
Education Centre in Hong Kong. She<br />
emphasizes that top Rieslings from the Mosel<br />
are a long way yet from tapping their full<br />
potential there. By virtue of their excellent<br />
ageing potential, she notes, many of these<br />
wines make first-rate collectors’ items.<br />
This, however, has to be communicated<br />
much better to potential buyers. Seen from a<br />
global perspective, most consumers,<br />
216 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
MOSEL | A PORTRAIT OF THE REGION<br />
especially in China, still prefer residually<br />
sweet and nobly sweet Mosel wines.<br />
Especially the 2019 Kabinett wines with<br />
their crystalline acidity, minerality and fine<br />
fruit will thus score well in export markets.<br />
In recent years, however, the image of the<br />
region has started to change. The old formula<br />
of “Mosel = sweet, steep, slate” has now<br />
been extended to include terms like “dry”,<br />
“innovative” and “unconventional” – at<br />
least in the top segment.<br />
Speaking to sommeliers, buyers and merchants<br />
in London, New York or Tokyo,<br />
many emphasize the increasing importance<br />
of dry Riesling. “Ten years ago, our clients<br />
primarily bought the Prädikate of the Mosel,”<br />
says Zigmars Grinbergs, sales manager of the<br />
on-trade Riesling specialist Howard Ripley in<br />
London. “The young generation of sommeliers<br />
now demands dry Riesling.”<br />
Winemaker Ernie Loosen confirms this trend.<br />
He notes that it is especially in the Grosse<br />
Gewächs category that much has happened –<br />
even if a great international breakthrough<br />
has not happened yet. However, he notes the<br />
distinct potential “when consumers<br />
experience the freshness of a 15-year-old<br />
Grosses Gewächs, for instance.” Alongside a<br />
more accessible “hedonistic style” of the drier<br />
wines, Gernot Kollmann, who runs the<br />
Immrich-Batterieberg estate, notes another<br />
One of Germany’s top winemakers: Ernst<br />
Loosen, Weingut Dr. Loosen<br />
important factor in the changing way the<br />
region is perceived; the winemakers<br />
themselves. Next to names like Haag,<br />
Grünhaus, Löwenstein, Müller, Molitor,<br />
Zilliken and others, the young, unconventional<br />
producers increasingly change the image of<br />
the Mosel for buyers and consumers alike.<br />
Julian Haart, for instance, does not only<br />
cause a stir on the London wine scene with<br />
his focused, mineral Rieslings. Here are<br />
further examples of quality-focused<br />
Photos: Shutterstock, provided, Hans Georg Merkel Landau<br />
Winemaker Gernot Kollmann on the steep slopes<br />
of his Weingut Immich- Batterieberg<br />
217
The new team at Karthäuserhof:<br />
Richard Grosche (li.) and Mathieu Kauffmann<br />
i ndividualists who forge their path with passion<br />
and idiosyncratic wines: Thorsten<br />
Melsheimer from Reil, farming his steep<br />
slopes biodynamically and Florian Lauer<br />
from Ayl – he farms his vineyards entirely<br />
without copper. There also is much organic<br />
farming promise in Mosel-newcomer<br />
Richard Grosche who just took over the<br />
running of Weingut Karthäuserhof in the<br />
Ruwer alongside Mathieu Kauffmann. They<br />
plan to start conversion next year. However,<br />
it is not just with Riesling that the Mosel<br />
scores highly. Spätburgunder also offers<br />
i nteresting possibilities, spurred on by<br />
climate change. “Elegant Mosel Pinots from<br />
the warmer sites are an exciting addition to<br />
wine menus,” says Zigmars Grinbergs.<br />
Nobody can tell what the future holds.<br />
Especially not in these turbulent, pandemic<br />
times. One thing, however, is clear: there is<br />
so much more potential in Mosel, Saar and<br />
Ruwer, even if the wines will not fetch the<br />
prices they did 120 years ago. The wine<br />
scene here is more diverse than ever before<br />
and the 2019 vintage – from the top<br />
producers – is incredibly exciting.<br />
Internationals markets have only just begun<br />
to (re-) discover the region. These<br />
opportunities need to be seized. I cannot wait.<br />
INFO<br />
Thomas Curtius‘ day job is in communication, he is<br />
the director of projects and digital communication<br />
for Daimler AG. In 2019, he passed his Master of Wine<br />
exams and received the Outstanding Achievement<br />
Award of the Institute of Masters of Wine.<br />
MOSEL WINE REGION<br />
The village of Zell an der Mosel<br />
Growing area<br />
approx. 8800 hectares<br />
Administrative Split<br />
6 districts (Bereich), 18 collective sites<br />
(Grosslage), 524 single sites (Einzellagen)<br />
Soils<br />
Triassic limestone, slate<br />
Important Grape Varieties<br />
Riesling, Weissburgunder, Spätburgunder<br />
Winegrowers’ Associations<br />
Mosel-Wein e. V., Gartenfeldstrasse 12a<br />
54295 Trier<br />
www.weinland-mosel.de<br />
Bernkasteler Ring e. V., Auf der Trift 29<br />
54470 Bernkastel-Kues<br />
www.bernkasteler-ring.de<br />
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MOSEL | GRANDS CRUS<br />
Front left: Würzgarten,<br />
Middle: Goldwingert, further right<br />
at the back: Prälat<br />
Der Prälat in Erden eignet sich dank seines<br />
warmen Mikroklimas ideal für besonders<br />
opulente Moselweine.<br />
GRANDS CRUS – MOSEL<br />
TOP WINES FROM PRIVILEGED SITES OF THE REGION<br />
ÜRZIG | WÜRZGARTEN<br />
The site name could refer to the spiciness<br />
of the Rieslings grown here, to the ancient<br />
practice of seasoning wine with herbs or to<br />
a former herb garden on this spot. The site<br />
itself has 53ha/131 acres and an incline of<br />
up to 65%, ascending 180m/590ft from<br />
the riverbank. The slope is characterised by<br />
its many cliffs and ledges and its great<br />
number of old vines, still trained on single<br />
stakes. The red volcanic rhyolite soils<br />
(often called Rotliegendes) make this site<br />
unique in the Mosel.<br />
93 2019 Riesling Alte Reben GG<br />
Weingut Dr. Loosen, further info on page 252<br />
91 2019 »furztrocken« Riesling trocken<br />
Weingut Reis, further info on page 264<br />
90 2019 Riesling »von wurzelechten Reben«<br />
Kabinett trocken<br />
Riesling-Manufaktur Rebenhof, further info on p. 262<br />
94 2019 Riesling Spätlese<br />
Joh.Jos. Christoffel Erben, www.moenchhof.de<br />
93 2019 Riesling Spätlese<br />
Weingut Dr. Loosen, further info on page 252<br />
93 2019 »Grand Ley« Riesling Spätlese<br />
92 2019 »Urglück« Riesling Spätlese<br />
Riesling-Manufaktur Rebenhof, further info on p. 262<br />
92 2013 Riesling Spätlese<br />
Mönchhof Eymael, www.moenchhof.de<br />
90 2017 Riesling Spätlese »Alte Reben«<br />
90 2009 Riesling Spätlese »Alte Reben«<br />
Weingut Benedict Loosen,<br />
benedict-loosen-erben.de<br />
ERDEN | PRÄLAT<br />
Weathered red shale characterises this steep<br />
site with up to 65% incline and full southern<br />
aspect. The warm meso climate of this<br />
particularly warm stretch of river brings<br />
forth some of the Mosel’s most opulent<br />
wines. The 1.5ha/3.7 acre Prälat parcel is, in<br />
a sense, the core of this larger site in Erden.<br />
98 2019 Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel<br />
Weingut Dr. Loosen, further info on page 252<br />
219
94 2018 Riesling Auslese<br />
Mönchhof Eymael, www.moenchhof.de<br />
WEHLEN | SONNENUHR<br />
The first mention in an official site map of the<br />
name Wehlener Sonnenuhr was in 1868. It<br />
was in 1842, however, that Jodocus Prüm had<br />
the famous sundial installed in the steep slopes<br />
of the best Wehlen vineyards. This up to 70%<br />
steep, south-facing site extends across<br />
44ha/109 acres with subsoils of Devonian<br />
slate whose weathered debris forms both thin<br />
and deep topsoils. The vineyard rises to about<br />
100m/328ft from the riverbank and is prized<br />
for its fruity and nobly-sweet Prädikat wines<br />
of multi-faceted typicity.<br />
94 2019 Riesling Spätlese Goldene Kapsel<br />
Weingut Markus Molitor, further info on page 255<br />
94 2019 Riesling Spätlese<br />
Weingüter Wegeler, further info on page 275<br />
94 2019 Riesling Spätlese*<br />
Weingut Selbach-Oster, www.selbach-oster.de<br />
93 2019 Riesling Spätlese<br />
Weingut Dr. Loosen, further info on page 252<br />
93 2016 Riesling Spätlese<br />
Weingut Joh. Jos. Prüm, www.jjpruem.com<br />
92 2019 Riesling Spätlese<br />
S. A. Prüm, further info on page 261<br />
92 2019 Riesling Spätlese<br />
Weingut Pauly-Bergweiler, further info on page 260<br />
92 2019 Riesling Spätlese<br />
Sankt Nikolaus Hospital, www.drk-sozialwerk.de<br />
92 2019 Riesling Spätlese<br />
Weingut Max. Ferd. Richter, www.maxferdrichter.de<br />
91 2019 Riesling Spätlese<br />
Weingut Studert-Prüm, www.studert-pruem.de<br />
94 2018 Riesling Spätlese<br />
Weingut Selbach-Oster, www.selbach-oster.de<br />
95 2019 Riesling Auslese »Fass 8«<br />
S. A. Prüm, further info on page 261<br />
95 2019 Riesling Auslese*** No. 42<br />
Weingut Max. Ferd. Richter, www.maxferdrichter.de<br />
94 2016 Riesling Auslese<br />
Weingut Joh. Jos. Prüm, www.jjpruem.com<br />
94 2019 Riesling Auslese***<br />
Weingut Studert-Prüm, www.studert-pruem.de<br />
Mosel<br />
Rhein<br />
Selected Grand Cru Sites<br />
Vineyard Area<br />
Villages<br />
Ürzig<br />
JUFFER SONNENUHR<br />
Wehlen Erden SONNENUHR<br />
GOLDTRÖPFCHEN<br />
Bernkastel<br />
Piesport<br />
MAXIMIN<br />
Brauneberg<br />
GRÜNHAUS<br />
ABTSBERG<br />
DOCTOR<br />
Mertesdorf<br />
WÜRZGARTEN<br />
Eitelsbach<br />
PRÄLAT<br />
KARTHÄUSERHOFBERG<br />
Saar<br />
ALTENBERG<br />
Wiltingen<br />
Kanzem<br />
Ockfen SCHARZHOFBERG<br />
BOCKSTEIN<br />
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MOSEL | GRANDS CRUS<br />
93 2019 Riesling Auslese<br />
Weingut Dr. Loosen, further info on page 252<br />
93 2017 Riesling Auslese<br />
Weingut Dr. Thanisch, Erben Müller-Burggraef<br />
Further info on page 270<br />
93 2019 Riesling Auslese<br />
Weingut Pauly-Bergweiler, further info on page 260<br />
93 2019 Riesling Auslese*<br />
93 2018 Riesling Auslese***<br />
Weingut Studert-Prüm, www.studert-pruem.de<br />
93 2019 Riesling Auslese**<br />
Weingut Kerpen, www.weingut-kerpen.de<br />
BERNKASTEL | DOCTOR<br />
The Bernkasteler Doctor has been a famous<br />
Riesling site for centuries. Apparently, its<br />
wines have cured ailing kings and wrought<br />
political miracles. The site covers 3.2ha/7.9<br />
acres, benefits from the mesoclimate of the<br />
nearby town, from its stony soils of<br />
weathered slate but also from its constant<br />
and balanced water availability. Ascribing<br />
healing powers to its luminous, aromatic<br />
and long-lived wines is thus entirely<br />
plausible.<br />
95 2016 Riesling Kabinett (Auktion)<br />
92 2019 Riesling Kabinett<br />
Weingut Dr. Thanisch, Erben Müller-Burggraef<br />
further info on page 270<br />
97 2019 Riesling Spätlese<br />
Weingut Schloss Lieser, further info on page 250<br />
96 2007 Riesling Spätlese<br />
Weingut Dr. Thanisch, Erben Thanisch,<br />
www.thanisch-vdp.de<br />
92 2019 Riesling Spätlese<br />
Weingüter Wegeler, further info on page 275<br />
92 2018 Riesling Auslese<br />
Weingut Dr. Thanisch Erben Müller-Burggraef<br />
further info on page 270<br />
95 2004 Riesling Auslese<br />
Weingut Dr. Thanisch, Erben Thanisch,<br />
www. thanisch-vdp.de<br />
94 2019 Riesling Auslese<br />
Weingüter Wegeler, further info on page 275<br />
94 2006 Riesling Auslese<br />
Weingut Lauerburg,<br />
www.weingut-lauerburg.de<br />
The steep Erdener Prälat site<br />
is dominated by slate soils<br />
BRAUNEBERG |<br />
JUFFER-SONNENUHR<br />
The best and up to 70% steep, south to southwest-facing<br />
parcel of the Brauneberger Juffer<br />
site comes with the addition of Sonnenuhr –<br />
or sundial. With its 10.5ha/26acres it<br />
measures just a quarter of the 42ha/104 acre<br />
slope. The soils are of particularly stony,<br />
weathered slate. Standing in the Sonnenuhr<br />
parcel offers the most splendid views across<br />
these incredibly steep vineyards.<br />
94 2019 Riesling Spätlese<br />
Sankt Nikolaus Hospital, www.drk-sozialwerk.de<br />
93 2019 Riesling Spätlese<br />
Weingut Schloss Lieser, further info on page 250<br />
92 2017 Riesling Spätlese<br />
Weingut Dr. Thanisch, Erben Müller-Burggraef<br />
further info on page 270<br />
92 2019 Riesling Spätlese<br />
Weingut Max. Ferd. Richter, www.maxferdrichter.de<br />
91 2018 Riesling Spätlese<br />
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt, further info on p. 248<br />
91 2019 Riesling Spätlese<br />
Weingut Karp-Schreiber, www.karp-schreiber.de<br />
89 2019 Riesling Spätlese<br />
Weingut Bauer, Further info on page 225<br />
95 2019 Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel<br />
Weingut Schloss Lieser, further info on page 250<br />
94 2019 Riesling Auslese<br />
Weingut Max. Ferd. Richter, www.maxferdrichter.de<br />
221
93 2019 Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel<br />
Weingut Martin Conrad,<br />
further info on page 235<br />
92 2016 Riesling Auslese<br />
Weingut Dr. Thanisch, Erben Müller-Burggraef<br />
further info on page 270<br />
92 2018 Riesling Auslese<br />
Weingut Karp-Schreiber,<br />
www.karp-schreiber.de<br />
PIESPORT | GOLDTRÖPFCHEN<br />
This site of almost 70ha/173 acres clings like<br />
an amphitheatre to the Mosel rivers, taking in<br />
aspects from south via southwest to west. A<br />
few extremely steep parcels have inclines of<br />
up to 90%, but 40-60% are more common.<br />
The partially deep soils are of weathered<br />
Devonian slate – a combination that lends a<br />
mineral component to the wines.<br />
96 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Schloss Lieser, further info on page 250<br />
93 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Grans-Fassian, further info on page 240<br />
93 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Haart, www.haart.de<br />
91 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Sankt Urbans-Hof, further info on page 256<br />
91 2018 Riesling GG<br />
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt, further info on p. 248<br />
91 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Harvest is cumbersome on the steep slopes<br />
of Weingut Dr. Loosen’s vineyard<br />
90 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
Weingut Hain, further info on page 241<br />
95 2019 Riesling Auslese<br />
Weingut Schloss Lieser, further info on page 250<br />
93 2019 Riesling Auslese<br />
93 2017 Riesling Auslese<br />
Sankt Urbans-Hof, further info on page 256<br />
93 2019 Riesling Auslese No. 5<br />
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt, further info on p. 248<br />
93 2019 Riesling Auslese<br />
Weingut Hain, further info on page 241<br />
93 2019 Riesling Auslese<br />
Weingut Haart, www.haart.de<br />
The Piesporter Goldtröpfchen site was<br />
first mentioned by name in 1868<br />
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MOSEL | GRANDS CRUS<br />
The Kanzemer Altenberg:<br />
the warmest site on the Saar<br />
MAXIMIN GRÜNHÄUSER |<br />
ABTSBERG<br />
The von Schubert family tends this 13.9ha/<br />
34 acre site (as well as the 20ha/49 acres of<br />
contiguous vineyards on either side of a slope<br />
where vines have been grown presumably as<br />
early as the fourth century. The conditions on<br />
this knoll-shaped, up to 70% steep, site are<br />
excellent. The weathered slate soils are not<br />
too thin, so that the vines have sufficient<br />
water availability even in dry summers. The<br />
south-to-south east-facing slope ensures<br />
plentiful sunshine.<br />
94 2018 Riesling GG<br />
92 2018 Riesling Spätlese<br />
92 2019 Riesling GG<br />
92 2019 Riesling Kabinett<br />
Maximin Grünhaus, Familie von Schubert, page 254<br />
EITELSBACH |<br />
KARTHÄUSERHOFBERG<br />
This monopole has been in the hands of the<br />
same family since 1811. The site covers<br />
17.2ha/42 acres and has inclines between<br />
40-50%. The site forms a knoll which<br />
extends westwards from a prevailing<br />
southern and south-eastern aspect. It rises<br />
from 170-270m/557-885ft. The soils of<br />
weathered Devonian slate have numerous<br />
veins of iron. Karthäuserhof wines with<br />
their iconic neck label are Ruwer classics<br />
with racy acidity.<br />
93 2019 Riesling Spätlese<br />
93 2018 Riesling Auslese<br />
91 2018 Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Karthäuserhof, www.karthaeuserhof.com<br />
KANZEM | ALTENBERG<br />
The breathtakingly-steep Altenberg<br />
(inclines of up to 80%) has soils of greenish<br />
slate, mixed with weathered rhyolite. Its<br />
south-south-east aspect directly on the<br />
river Saar ensures sufficient light and<br />
warmth to bring forth powerful and<br />
long-lived wines which often find their<br />
most memorable expressions within the<br />
Spätlese Prädikat. Fortunately, many<br />
parcels of old, ungrafted vines could be<br />
preserved here. The Kanzem site Hörecker<br />
is an enclave within this vineyard.<br />
94 2019 Riesling Alte Reben GG<br />
Weingut Van Volxem, further info on page 273<br />
94 2019 Hörecker Riesling Spätlese<br />
93 2019 Hörecker Riesling (feinherb)<br />
Weingut von Hövel, further info on page 244<br />
223
By now, Karthäuserhofberg has been the monopole site<br />
of Weingut Karthäuserhof for seven generations<br />
93 2018 Riesling GG<br />
93 2019 Riesling GG<br />
93 2019 Riesling Alte Reben Spätlese<br />
Weingut von Othegraven,<br />
further info on page 258<br />
89 2018 Riesling »Grosses Gewächs«<br />
89 2018 Riesling trocken<br />
Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier,<br />
www.bischoeflicheweingueter.de<br />
WILTINGEN | SCHARZHOFBERG<br />
The origins of the Scharzhofberg can be<br />
traced to an endowment made to the St.<br />
Marien monastery in the year 700. The<br />
speciality of this mesoclimate are the<br />
enormous diurnal temperature swings.<br />
This 28ha/69 acre site is legendary. Situated<br />
in a windy lateral valley, rising from<br />
190-310m/623-1017ft, it is not particularly<br />
warm, however, this up to 60% steep,<br />
south-to-southeast-facing slope creates<br />
ideal conditions for slow ripening of the<br />
grapes. The heavily-weathered grey slate<br />
creates wines of striking mineral aromas.<br />
92 2018 Riesling Kabinett<br />
Weingut von Hövel, Further info on page 244<br />
90 2019 Riesling Kabinett feinherb<br />
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt,<br />
further info on page 248<br />
95 2019 Riesling GG<br />
95 2019 »Pergentsknopp« Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Van Volxem,<br />
further info on page 273<br />
93 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Weingut von Hövel, further info on page 244<br />
92 2019 Riesling GG<br />
92 2019 »Pergentsknopp« Riesling GG<br />
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt,<br />
further info on page 248<br />
OCKFEN | BOCKSTEIN<br />
This almost 60ha/148 acre large site<br />
produces the most powerful wines of the<br />
Saar valley. Its stony but also loamy soils of<br />
greywacke and slate provide heat retention<br />
and regulate water availability while the<br />
topography provides a warm mesoclimate.<br />
The steepest parcels have inclines of up to<br />
80% while the central slope takes the shape<br />
of a heat-retaining amphitheatre. The site<br />
frames the village of Ockfen in a south-east<br />
to south-west-facing semi-circle.<br />
92 2016 Riesling Spätlese<br />
Weingut Nik Weis – St. Urbans-Hof,<br />
further info on page 256<br />
92 2019 Riesling Spätlese<br />
Weingut Van Volxem, further info on page 273<br />
224 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT BAUER<br />
Mosel | WINERIES<br />
Moselstrasse 3, 54486 Mülheim an der Mosel<br />
T: +49 (6534) 571, info@weingut-bauer.de<br />
www.weingut-bauer.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Saturdays 8–12 hrs and<br />
13–18 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Thomas Bauer<br />
Contact: Jörg and Thomas Bauer<br />
Hectares: 8 ha<br />
With his Beerenauslese Riesling from<br />
the Mülheimer Elisenberg site,<br />
Thomas Bauer accomplished a real<br />
feat which promptly compelled us to award a<br />
score of 94 points. The wine was the culmination<br />
of a really convincing wine range in which the<br />
well-balanced Riesling “GG” from the Elisenberg<br />
site also stood out. Together with his father<br />
Jörg, Thomas Bauer cultivates eight hectares of<br />
vines in outstanding sites like the Mülheimer<br />
Elisenberg. Showing the potential of these sites is<br />
something this father-son team do with reliable<br />
regularity. We already look forward to more<br />
magnificent wine from Mülheim on the Mosel.<br />
91 2017 »GG« Mülheim Elisenberg Riesling tr.<br />
Rose petals and lemon balm in the appealing fragrance followed<br />
by ripe apples, stone fruit and the juice of ripe pineapples.<br />
Compactly built on the palate with good density and extract,<br />
the acidity is ripe, as are the fruit notes, underpinned by<br />
spicy slate nuances. Well balanced, with potential.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
there is deep sweetness and a restrained acidity structure,<br />
thus smooth and creamy juiciness; a hint of mint on the finish,<br />
also dried apricots. 9 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 Brauneberg Juffer Riesling Auslese<br />
89 2019 Weissburgunder trocken<br />
White and yellow flowers on the nose, very ripe apricot and<br />
also mango with spicy notes. Pinot Blanc with fullness and<br />
power and broadness, again very ripe fruit on the palate, lots<br />
of juice and texture. Perfectly ripe grapes at harvest. A good<br />
choice with food. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
94 2018 Mülheim Elisenberg<br />
Riesling Beerenauslese<br />
Caramel on the nose, dates, sultanas, smoky and stony<br />
notes, apple and a whiff of tobacco. Great concentration, lots<br />
of substance, great juiciness, mineral tones, crunchy and<br />
perhaps not immensely complex, but downright animating in<br />
an exciting way. Impressive. 7,5 Vol.-%. cork<br />
89 2019 Brauneberg Juffer Sonnenuhr<br />
Riesling Spätlese<br />
Deep yellow in colour. On the nose ripe apples, stone fruit,<br />
porcini mushrooms, leaves and fir tree honey. On the palate<br />
90 2019 Brauneberg Juffer Riesling<br />
Spätlese trocken<br />
Ripe apricot appears on the nose, soon joined by herbs and<br />
spicy slate nuances with hints of crushed rock. Sweet and<br />
juicy fruit on the palate (apricot again), the ripe acidity gallantly<br />
leads through the clearly defined body, which is<br />
tinged with slate spice nuances. Well balanced.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
225
WEINGUT BEFORT<br />
Schulstrasse 17, 54453 Nittel<br />
T: +49 (6584) 422, weingut@befort.de<br />
www.befort.de<br />
Cellar Door: Saturdays 10–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Hans-Jörg Befort<br />
Contact: Ruth and Marcel Befort<br />
Hectares: 5 ha<br />
It is a kind of harmonious accessibility that<br />
Ruth, Marcel and Hans-Jörg Befort bring<br />
to their wines in Nittel in the Upper Mosel.<br />
As is traditional for this part of the region, the<br />
Pinot-varieties, just as Riesling, are despatched<br />
with a touch of residual sweetness. The fact that<br />
this rounding out does not have a tiring effect<br />
on the palate is, on the one hand, down to the<br />
Triassic limestone soils that lend inner coolness<br />
and firmness to the wines. On the other hand,<br />
the wines possess an admirable aromatic clarity.<br />
This year we want to draw your attention to<br />
the Spätburgunder “S” which combines ripe<br />
tannins with a rather grown-up savouriness.<br />
90 2019 Nittel Rochusfels<br />
Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
Intense limestone-spiciness on the nose, a little wood influence,<br />
in addition a berryish, ripe varietal fruit with a slight hint of ester.<br />
On the palate there is concentrated acidity, but also with dense<br />
substance and a strong lime-mineral perception followed by a<br />
fitting sweetness at the finish. Very long. 12,5 Vol.-%. DIAM, €<br />
notes. Lively acidity on the palate, spicy and with ripe, vivid<br />
tannins, powerful structure, elegant and also distinctive.<br />
Successful liaison, great with meat. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 Nittel Blümchen Chardonnay trocken<br />
90 2019 Nittel Leiterchen<br />
Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
A multi-layered, fine spicy nose with notes of cumin, elderflower<br />
and red gooseberry. On the palate quite round and textured,<br />
slightly viscous, fine acidity, quite animating sweetness<br />
and good aromatics. Emphatically mild palate, completely<br />
self-contained. 12 Vol.-%. DIAM, €<br />
91 2018 »S« Nittel Leiterchen<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Concentrated and spicy nose with ripe cherry, cassis, juniper<br />
berry and hints of oak. A dense Burgundy-like wine with a lot<br />
of spice, fruit and also liveliness, the powerful body is infused<br />
with a ripe acid vein and concise tannins. Still young.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2018 Nittel Leiterchen Pinot Noir &<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon trocken<br />
Depicts the character of both grape varieties on the nose:<br />
cassis and cherry, also fine Pinot perfume and woody spice<br />
89 2018 Crémant brut<br />
A complex and intense Pinot fruit, small red berries, peppery<br />
lime aromas and also some tropical fruit, pineapple.<br />
Vivid sweetness, texture and substance in good harmony,<br />
ripe acidity, medium-fine mousse, a full-bodied and harmonious<br />
sparkling wine. 12,5 Vol.-%, DIAM, €€<br />
226 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
ERBEN VON BEULWITZ<br />
Mosel | WINERIES<br />
Eitelsbacher Weg 4, 54318 Mertesdorf<br />
T: +49 (651) 95610, info@von-beulwitz.de<br />
www.von-beulwitz.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Sundays 8–20 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Herbert Weis<br />
Contact: Herbert Weis<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 50,000 (95 % white, 5 % red)/8 ha<br />
Since we always encourage our wine estates<br />
to also submit more mature wines,<br />
Herbert Weis sent us an Auslese from the<br />
Kaseler Nies’chen site to taste this year: a wine<br />
that delivers the true and beautiful glory of<br />
mature Ruwer in the glass and exhorts us not<br />
to open the bottles in our cellars too early.<br />
However, his younger wines were just as convincing,<br />
with his Nies’chen Im Taubenberg<br />
from the 2019 vintage taking the top spot: a<br />
dry “Grosses Gewächs” entirely focused on<br />
slate. Also noteworthy is that Hotel Weis and<br />
Restaurant “Vinum” belong to this estate.<br />
93 2019 »Grosses Gewächs« Kasel Nies'chen<br />
Im Taubenberg Riesling trocken<br />
On the nose strongly focused on minerality, lots of slate, only a<br />
little (but still some) yellow fruit. Poised and full on the palate,<br />
fine substance. The acidity is seamlessly connected to the body,<br />
even the sweetness is completely merged with the silky extract.<br />
Superb! 12 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2019 »Grosses Gewächs« Kasel Nies'chen<br />
Auf den Mauern Riesling trocken<br />
A little overripe on the nose, apricot, sultana and hints of panettone.<br />
Very animating on the palate, delicate phenolics, smooth<br />
base, salty notes, round with depth, sweetness and acidity harmonise<br />
with each other. Good body, but also concentration.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2005 »Alte Reben« Kasel Nies'chen<br />
Riesling Auslese<br />
Buttercup-yellow colour, deliciously evolved nose of white berries<br />
and also burnt sugar. On the palate almost like smoked tea<br />
with fresh acidity and elegant sweetness, like that of pickled<br />
pumpkin. Immensely complex, exciting, mature but not old.<br />
7 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2019 »Alte Reben Fass Nr. 4« Kasel<br />
Nies'chen Riesling Auslese ***<br />
Beautiful light golden yellow reflections in the glass, delicate<br />
nose like that of a cool morning breeze with hints of delicate<br />
herbs. On the palate an elegant sweetness with fine crème<br />
brûlée notes and a juicy, long-lasting, fresh acidity on the finish.<br />
Very animating! 8,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2019 Kasel Nies'chen Riesling<br />
Spätlese feinherb<br />
89 2019 Kasel Nies'chen Im Steingarten<br />
Riesling Spätlese trocken<br />
88 2019 Kasel Nies'chen Riesling<br />
Kabinett feinherb<br />
88 2018 Weissburgunder trocken<br />
88 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 »Alte Reben Fass Nr. 6« Kasel<br />
Nies'chen Riesling Spätlese<br />
88 2019 »Fass Nr. 8« Kasel Nies'chen<br />
Riesling Kabinett<br />
91 2019 Kasel Kehrnagel Riesling Spätlese<br />
trocken Fass Nr. 14<br />
Fruity and fragrant, peach and apricot scents, followed by<br />
mineral-spicy notes with iodine undertones. Silky and finely<br />
chiselled on the palate, the sweetness is wonderfully integrated<br />
into the structure, the ripe acidity carries the fruit. A harmonious<br />
single-site wine rich in content. 12 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
227
WEINGUT BLESIUS<br />
Hauptstrasse 75, 54470 Graach<br />
T: +49 (6531) 2227, weingut@blesius.com<br />
www.weingut.blesius.com<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Saturdays 10–18 hrs and<br />
by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Florian Blesius<br />
Contact: Florian Blesius<br />
Hectares: 5 ha<br />
This Winery can trace its history back to<br />
1750. Yet, the Blesius family have set<br />
their sights ahead. “Provenance has a<br />
future,” they state as their motto. Indeed, who<br />
could argue with that when the provenance is<br />
as privileged as the steep sites of Graach and<br />
Bernkastel. It’s from four and a half hectares<br />
that Florian Blesius makes Rieslings with juiciness<br />
and freshness, wines which are not overwrought<br />
and just make you want to take the<br />
next sip. The village wine from Graach called<br />
“Tacheles”, for instance, is our Falstaff-Tip.<br />
91 2019 »BB« Graach Himmelreich Riesling<br />
Beautifully animating colour in the glass, a fine fresh spring<br />
fragranced nose with delicate white flowers. On the palate<br />
refreshing and at the same time also oily, opulent and long<br />
lasting without being filling. Long mineral finish with delicious<br />
sweetness. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 Graach Himmelreich<br />
Riesling Kabinett<br />
90 2019 »BB« Graach Domprobst Riesling tr.<br />
Very beautiful, striking golden yellow colour. Fragrant and<br />
plump on the nose, already starting to develop with notes of<br />
autumn flowers. Mineral and juicy on the palate, discreet<br />
sweetness, a fine astringency makes this powerful wine a<br />
good food wine. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2019 Graach Domprobst Riesling trocken<br />
Beautiful golden yellow colour. On the nose a fine floral<br />
scent, lightly roasted almonds, spicy slate nuances and<br />
fresh. On the palate a powerful and striking acidity buffered<br />
by a delicate texture and fitting sweetness. Juicy finish of<br />
good length. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €<br />
92 2019 Graach Domprobst Riesling Spätlese<br />
At first a little closed in the glass, then slowly citrus notes<br />
are expressed, also lemon balm. On the palate, a delicious<br />
freshness and almost sparkling acidity, which pairs perfectly<br />
with the sweetness, the wine is incredibly juicy with depth<br />
and offers wonderful playfulness. 8,5 Vol.-%. cork, €<br />
90 2019 »Tacheles« Graach<br />
Riesling feinherb<br />
This wine is not as rebellious as the caricatured label suggests,<br />
but it is a successful and immensely pleasurable<br />
wine. Fresh and juicy, the fine, delicate sweetness supports<br />
the body and makes you just want more!<br />
11 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
228 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Mosel | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT RICHARD BÖCKING<br />
Schottstrasse 12-14, 56841 Traben-Trarbach<br />
T: +49 (6541) 9385, riesling@weingut-boecking.de<br />
www.weingut-boecking.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8.30–12.30 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Philipp Buchkremer<br />
Contact: Sandra Weber-Westphal<br />
Hectares: 7 ha<br />
Riesling is the reason why so many generations<br />
have lived and worked at the Mosel,”<br />
reports cellar master Philipp Buchkremer<br />
of Weingut Böcking. The estate’s seven<br />
hectares of vines are scattered mainly around the<br />
top steep sites of Trarbach, Ungsberg, Burgberg,<br />
Schlossberg and Taubenhaus where grapes can<br />
only be harvested by hand. It is especially the<br />
Riesling from Ungsberg that proves the great potential<br />
of this particular site with its elegance,<br />
mineral depth and almost Burgundian grace. The<br />
off-dry Riesling Taubenhaus shows the typical<br />
filigree interplay of sweetness and acidity. With<br />
wines like these you just want to refill your glass!<br />
92 2018 Trarbach Ungsberg Riesling trocken<br />
Apple, mint and stone fruit on the slowly opening nose, with<br />
a hint of lemon balm. Softly opening on the palate with finely<br />
chiselled acidity and velvety elegance, also substance and<br />
phenolic layers. Depicting almost light Burgundian impressions<br />
and mineral depth. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
88 2019 Pinot Blanc trocken<br />
91 2018 Trarbach Burgberg Riesling trocken<br />
Apricot, fine smoke, liquorice and caramel on the nose. Powerfully<br />
built on the palate with good density and good extract,<br />
structurally marked and with mineral flair. Appears<br />
firm and still closed due to barrique ageing, needs time to unravel<br />
its great potential. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2018 Trarbach Schlossberg<br />
Riesling halbtrocken<br />
Ripe and spicy nose, ripe peach, apple, flowers, also hints of<br />
pineapple and wood and a dash of bay leaf. Lean and firmly<br />
built on the palate with fine phenolic layering, juicy, spicy and<br />
rounded. The slatey mineral tinge provides highlights.<br />
11,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2018 Spätburgunder Rosé trocken<br />
Scents of wild berries, strawberries and raspberries, also a<br />
blade of mace and vanilla. Juicy and soft on the palate, the<br />
mild acidity blends in well, firm in its structure, not too sweet<br />
with a fine saltiness and spiciness. To drink al fresco, gastronomically<br />
versatile. 12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2018 Trarbach Taubenhaus<br />
Riesling feinherb<br />
Apple on the nose followed by mirabelle plum and lime<br />
peel, also some herbal notes. A cheerfully flowing Riesling<br />
with lively acidity and good freshness, finely rounded off by<br />
the fruity sweetness. Herbs, citrus notes and tart mineral<br />
nuances conclude the finish. 11 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
229
WEINGUT BOLLIG<br />
Am Triesch 4, 54487 Wintrich<br />
T: +49 (152) 33897472, post@bollig-weingut.de<br />
www.bollig-weingut.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Lukas Bollig<br />
Contact: Lukas Bollig<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 30,000 (90 % white, 10 % red) /4 ha<br />
Weingut Bollig cultivates three and a<br />
half hectares of wines in and<br />
around the village of Wintrich.<br />
The best wines hail from the steep Ohligsberg<br />
site. Apart from Riesling, there is also Weissand<br />
Spätburgunder but Chardonnay, we are<br />
told, is also going to play a future role. Lukas<br />
Bollig took the estate over from his uncle in<br />
2018. The young winemaker says: “For me the<br />
prime focus is on expressing the provenance of<br />
the wines.” We can already taste this in his<br />
honest and subtly savoury Rieslings which<br />
speak of slate minerality and large Fuder barrels.<br />
With wines like these, we like to listen.<br />
89 2019 »Urgestein« Riesling trocken<br />
Woody aromas mingle with ripe apricot, also kumquats. At<br />
first, sweet then juicy fruit appears on the palate, which<br />
takes up space and harmonises with the ripe acid structure.<br />
In the background, multi-layered content builds up in a lean,<br />
firm structure. Potential. 12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 Wintrich Ohligsberg Riesling Kabinett<br />
89 2018 »Kreuz« Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Ripe apple on the nose, also stone fruit, mandarine and herbaceous<br />
notes with light toasty aromas. Firm and compact<br />
on the palate with well-judged power, has density and tension,<br />
also juice and fruity elegance. A joy to drink, on its own<br />
and with food. 12,5 Vol.-%. DIAM, €<br />
89 2019 »Urgestein« Riesling feinherb<br />
Typical scent of ripe yellow stone fruit, vine peach and warm<br />
slate, also summer vineyard herbs. On the palate a nice interplay<br />
of fruit, sweetness and acidity, also fine spiciness and<br />
minerality, slenderly built and yet of good intensity. Young.<br />
11 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2019 Wintrich Ohligsberg Riesling Auslese<br />
Tangerine and ripe apples on the nose, apricot, also some papaya<br />
and guava. The powerful acidity provides dynamism in a<br />
relaxed and full-bodied texture, medium tension, soft flow of<br />
sweet juice and acidity. Charming and with fine mineral spiciness.<br />
8 Vol.-%. DIAM, €€<br />
89 2019 »Tradition« Riesling trocken<br />
Smells of yellow apple, tangerine, lemon grass and herbs.<br />
On the palate it lives up to its name: fruity, vivid acidity,<br />
beautiful interplay of the two elements, spicy and lively,<br />
slenderly built and with a fine phenolic astringency. An enjoyable<br />
traditional wine! 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
230 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Mosel | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT CLEMENS BUSCH<br />
Kirchstrasse 37, 56862 Pünderich<br />
weingut@clemens-busch.de<br />
www.clemens-busch.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Johannes and Clemens Busch<br />
Contact: Clemens Busch<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 12,000 (100 % white)/16 ha<br />
There is hardly any need at all to talk<br />
about the dry wines that Clemens<br />
Busch and his son Johannes make: you<br />
can blindly take your pick across the range<br />
and will be confronted with a wine of extraordinary<br />
depth, precisely defined site character<br />
and the kind of ageing potential that will document<br />
delicacy for years and decades. This<br />
year, however, we really want to draw your attention<br />
to the residual and noble sweet wines<br />
which effortlessly play in the same league as<br />
the dry wines. We must also note that – considering<br />
their category – they are unbelievable<br />
bargains.<br />
97 2018 Pündericher Marienburg Fahrlay<br />
Terrassen GG Riesling<br />
Warm slate and flint on the nose, ripe apricot, herbs, some black<br />
tea and a hint of seaweed. At first accessible with fine sweetness,<br />
layered complexity, typicity and character build up. Fine phenolics,<br />
which rise sublimely, great format. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
97 2018 Pünderich Marienburg Raffes Riesling<br />
Obvious balsamic scents on the nose and filigree spicy slate notes<br />
followed by red apple and blossom honey. On the palate there is<br />
great volume, a lot of texture but at the same time incredibly gentle.<br />
The finest phenolics, delicately sweet substance, raisin-like<br />
aromas, long, deep, round. A sheer delight. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
96 2017 »Reserve« Pünderich Marienburg<br />
Rothenpfad Riesling trocken<br />
A whiff into a spice box, Annapurna curry powder and then<br />
some incense, followed by a fresh fruity scent of pineapple.<br />
Taut and vertical on the palate, firm acid backbone, subtle<br />
texture, no isolated sweetness. Intensely mineral and very<br />
enigmatic, and immensely young. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
96 2019 »Goldkapsel« Pünderich Marienburg<br />
Riesling Auslese<br />
Fine spices, delicate botrytis, almost dusty slate notes and<br />
damp asphalt scents. Great density on the palate, electrifying<br />
acidity, defensive sweetness, very intense minerality - almost<br />
painfully insistent on the midpalate. 7,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
96 2018 Pünderich Marienburg<br />
Felsterrasse Riesling<br />
96 2018 Pünderich Marienburg<br />
Falkenlay Riesling GG<br />
95 2018 Pünderich Marienburg<br />
Fahrlay Riesling GG<br />
94 2018 Pünderich Marienburg<br />
Rothenpfad Riesling GG<br />
94 2017 »Reserve« Pündericher Marienburg<br />
Fahrlay Riesling trocken<br />
93 2018 Pünderich Marienburg GG Riesling<br />
93 2019 Pünderich Marienburg<br />
Riesling Kabinett<br />
95 2019 »Goldkapsel« Pünderich<br />
Marienburg Riesling Spätlese<br />
Balsamic notes on the nose with restrained yellow fruit<br />
and some dried fig, but also herbal hints. On the palate<br />
there is a plump, sweet and supple wrapping around an<br />
iron-hard core of tactile minerality and concentrated acidity.<br />
Potential for 20 years and more. 7,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
231
C.A. HAUSSMANN<br />
Bernkasteler-Weg 15, 56841 Traben-Trarbach<br />
T: +43 (6541) 1543, weingut@ca-haussmann.de<br />
www.ca-haussmann.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Karsten Schwaab<br />
Contact: Stefan Stassen<br />
Hectares: 5 ha<br />
It does not happen very often that a former<br />
apprentice takes over a wine estate. Stefan<br />
Stassen bought the C.A. Haussmann estate<br />
in 2014, which can trace its history back<br />
to 1559. He had completed his Winzer apprenticeship<br />
there in 1982. His five hectares of<br />
vines are in and around Traben-Trarbach, in<br />
sites like Taubenhaus, Königsberg, Kräuterhaus<br />
and Würzgarten as well as in the Ürziger<br />
Würzgarten. The dry Auslese “Schieferjuwel”<br />
left a particular impression with its mineral savouriness,<br />
while the noble sweet “Schieferjuwel”<br />
came with generous expression. A great<br />
debut!<br />
90 2019 »Schieferjuwel« Traben-Trarbach<br />
Kräuterhaus Riesling Auslese trocken<br />
Herbal and spicy notes in the somewhat closed nose, hints of<br />
yeast, apple peel and rosehip, also ripe stone fruit scents. Juicy<br />
and with well-judged fruit sweetness on the palate, ripe acidic<br />
structure and some pineapple juice notes. Lots of content in a<br />
lean and mineral-spicy format. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
and slightly plump with good flow. Beautiful, almost distinctive<br />
finish with notes of cool pebbles. Generous and stylish.<br />
8 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
88 2019 »Club Rosé« trocken<br />
89 2019 Traben-Trarbach Taubenhaus<br />
Riesling Spätlese feinherb<br />
Very delicate nose of apricot and vine peach, hay and cereals,<br />
candy cane and white floral scents. On the palate there is<br />
lots of juice, a clear sweetness with delicate acidity and positive<br />
'feinherb' hints that have an animating effect and encourage<br />
the next sip. 11,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
88 2019 »Kayser Wingert Alte Rebe« Traben-<br />
Trarbach Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett tr.<br />
Ripe apple and citrus fruit on the nose, herbs and stony<br />
notes. Slenderly built Riesling, which with its filigree structure<br />
deserves the Prädikat Kabinett category. Juicy and with<br />
fruit sweetness, which corresponds well with the fresh acidity.<br />
Fine spiciness on the finish. 11 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
91 2019 »Schieferjuwel« Traben-Trabach<br />
Kräuterhaus Riesling Auslese<br />
Fine nose of mild pipe tobacco, stone fruit, clover and hops.<br />
On the palate a delicate sweetness with juicy acidity, fresh<br />
89 2019 »Schieferjuwel« Riesling trocken<br />
Herbaceous on the nose, showing apple and stone fruit as<br />
well as spicy-slate notes. Slenderly built on the palate, with<br />
ripe and juicy freshness, fine interplay of sweetness and<br />
acidity, a recurrence of stony notes and also good phenolics.<br />
Shows its origin in a calm way. 12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
232 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Mosel | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT CASPARI-KAPPEL<br />
Am Steffenberg 29, 56850 Enkirch<br />
T: +49 (6541) 6348, info@caspariwein.de<br />
www.caspariwein.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Uwe Jostock<br />
Contact: Nico Caspari and Uwe Jostock<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 85,000 (90 % white, 10 % red)/12 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
Nico Caspari and Uwe Jostock are the<br />
faces behind Weingut Caspari-Kappel<br />
in Enkirch. Jostock is responsible for<br />
both viticulture and winemaking. He cultivates<br />
mainly Riesling on twelve hectares of top<br />
slate sites like Enkircher Ellergrub, Enkircher<br />
Monteneubel or Trabener Gaispfad but also<br />
makes Weissburgunder and rosé wines. “Our<br />
estate stands for animating, organic wines<br />
from the Mosel’s steepest sites. The idea of terroir<br />
is central to our philosophy,” they report.<br />
Their ambitious range of wines demonstrates<br />
this impressively!<br />
91 2019 Enkirch Ellergrub Riesling Spätlese tr.<br />
Ripe apricot and nectarine on the nose, also red apple and<br />
lemon zest. On the palate juicy and with fine fruit, good complexity.<br />
In the powerful body ripe acidity meets good extract<br />
with a deep character and spicy slate nuances too. Lots of<br />
substance and charm. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
acidity, finely harmonised with a good balance and slightly<br />
mineral. 7 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
89 2019 »100« Traben Gaispfad Riesling<br />
Spätlese feinherb<br />
90 2019 Enkirch Monteneubel Riesling<br />
Spätlese feinherb<br />
Light pale green reflections in the glass, initially closed, then<br />
developing smoky notes with graphite and floral meadow<br />
scents - cool on the nose. Initially delicate and almost soft on<br />
the palate, then dense and plump, a multi-faceted wine with<br />
well-integrated sweetness. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2019 »von alten Reben« Traben Gaispfad<br />
Riesling Spätlese<br />
Sparkling wine with notes of white honey and mirabelle<br />
plums on the nose. On the palate a delicious pairing of sweetness<br />
with fresh acidity, the mirabelle plum scents also continue<br />
in the taste, the crunchy impression lingers for a long<br />
time. Simultaneously fresh and elegant. 8,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2019 Enkirch Steffensberg Riesling Auslese<br />
Crystal-clear with light green reflections into the glass, delicate<br />
smoky notes and white flowers on the nose. Then a<br />
round juiciness on the palate, embedded in fresh animating<br />
89 2019 Riesling Kabinett trocken<br />
Fine nose with aromas of apple, citrus fruit and nectarine,<br />
also meadow herbs. On the palate there is a slender structure<br />
and a balance that is shaped by the sweetness-acidity<br />
interplay, the lively acidity is precise. Apple and yellow fruit<br />
re-emerge again with a fine minerality from the slate soil.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
233
WEINGUT ANSGAR CLÜSSERATH<br />
Spielesstrasse 4, 54349 Trittenheim<br />
T: +49 (6507) 2290, weingut@ansgar-cluesserath.de<br />
www.ansgar-cluesserath.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Eva Clüsserath-Wittmann<br />
Contact: Eva Clüsserath-Wittmann<br />
Hectares: 5 ha<br />
Even those in our tasting team who usually<br />
are pictures of professional restraint<br />
were moved by these wines. The estate<br />
Riesling “Vom Schiefer” already prompted enthusiastic<br />
statements: this laser-like, slender<br />
Riesling is thrilling – for less than ten Euros! It<br />
simply is an exquisite range that Eva Clüsserath-Wittmann<br />
presented from her five hectares<br />
of steep sites around Trittenheim – knowingly<br />
playing to the various strengths of Riesling:<br />
from animating, slate-spicy and profound<br />
to the tension-laden and delicious nobility of<br />
the Auslese from the Trittenheimer Apotheke<br />
site. This is world-class!<br />
93 2019 Trittenheim Apotheke Riesling tr.<br />
Closed nose with some yeasty aromas, citrus fruit, herbs and<br />
hot stone. On the palate there is ripe, sweet stone fruit, tight<br />
traction, good density and concentration in a lean format<br />
with a defined minerality. Will develop well and for a long<br />
time. 12 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
95 2019 Trittenheim Apotheke<br />
Riesling Auslese<br />
Clear, medium yellow. On the nose blossom honey, candied<br />
orange, herbal spice and hot stone nuances. On the palate<br />
tension and raciness, sweet lime juice, mineral tension, density;<br />
powerful but full of elegance. Great length, great potential,<br />
delicious! 8,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2019 Trittenheim Apotheke<br />
Riesling Spätlese<br />
92 2019 »Steinreich« Riesling trocken<br />
Primary fruit not very obvious, but scents of fine wood savouriness<br />
and lots of spicy slate nuances, with hints of peach<br />
and apple and citrus notes. At first juicy, soft and with preserved<br />
lemon on the palate, then good density with phenolic<br />
layering and mineral penetration. 11,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2019 Trittenheim Apotheke<br />
Riesling Kabinett<br />
Clear, pale yellow with light greenish reflections. On the<br />
nose herbaceous spice, lime zest and crushed rock. On the<br />
palate tension, spice and balance, ripe citrus fruits, poised by<br />
fine minerality, good structure and length. Excellent.<br />
8,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
91 2019 »Vom Schiefer« Riesling trocken<br />
Apple, linden blossom, mirabelle plums and fine wood<br />
notes. On the palate, slenderly composed, with excellent<br />
clarity and straightness, juicy, super-slender laser concentration<br />
and yet intense and fresh with preserved lemon astringency<br />
and a slate mineral finish. Very drinkable! Wow!<br />
11 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
234 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Mosel | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT MARTIN CONRAD<br />
Moselweinstrasse 133, 54472 Brauneberg<br />
T: +49 (6534) 9398 0, info@martinconrad.de<br />
www.martinconrad.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Martin Conrad<br />
Contact: Martin Conrad<br />
Hectares: 6 ha<br />
A<br />
very strong performance! Martin<br />
Conrad sent us dry and off-dry wines<br />
that convinced us with their silky extract<br />
and calm sense of balance. Conrad<br />
knows how to express the Grand Cru status of<br />
these Brauneberg sites in a delicious fashion.<br />
“Slate,” the winemaker reports, “is the stuff<br />
that gives character to our wines.” The estate<br />
started the conversion to organic farming in<br />
2019 and the wines will be certified organic<br />
from the 2022 vintage onwards. We look forward<br />
to seeing how this estate will evolve.<br />
At this level, a fourth star is rather within<br />
reach.<br />
94 2019 »Goldkapsel« Brauneberg Juffer<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Some wood and ripe, clear yellow fruit, herbs and pungent<br />
mineral undertones. On the palate dense and powerful,<br />
slightly viscous, but also with a firm acidic nerve and very<br />
fine phenolics. Overall very mineral, still immensely young.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
94 2018 »GG« Brauneberg Juffer Riesling tr.<br />
Tangerine, apple and spicy slate nuances. On the palate silky<br />
and supple, quite plump foundations, viscous, finest phenolics,<br />
ripe acidity fused quite seamlessly with the body, intense<br />
and long-lasting tactile minerality. Subtle fullness.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2019 »GG« Brauneberg Juffer-Sonnenuhr<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Intense yellow-fruits, herbaceous with slate notes. On the<br />
palate there is great tension, crunchy, dense, firm acidity,<br />
completely dry and unpretentious. Dense and chewy, almost<br />
astringent, gripping extract. Intense minerality.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2019 »Goldkapsel« Brauneberg Juffer<br />
Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese<br />
Clear, rich yellow. On the nose piquant spiciness, ripe citrus<br />
fruit, papaya, mango, mineral spiciness. On the palate grippy<br />
acidity, rich fruit extract, orange notes, some light honey,<br />
densely woven, nice length. Elegant and clear, contemplative<br />
pleasure. 8 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2019 »GG« Brauneberg Juffer Riesling tr.<br />
92 2018 »Goldkapsel« Brauneberg Juffer<br />
Riesling feinherb<br />
92 2018 »Alte Reben« Veldenz Kirchberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
91 2019 »Alte Reben« Veldenz Kirchberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
91 2019 »Goldkapsel« Brauneberg Juffer<br />
Riesling feinherb<br />
91 2018 »GG« Brauneberg Juffer Sonnenuhr<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 Brauneberg Juffer Riesling trocken<br />
91 2019 »Conradus« Riesling Kabinett<br />
Slate spice, flinty, smoky, completely focused on rock aromatics.<br />
On the palate there is archetypal Kabinett raciness,<br />
crunchy acidity, well-integrated sweetness, piquant<br />
impression and very good density. Finally tactile minerality,<br />
animating to drink. 9 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
235
WEINGUT<br />
FORSTMEISTER GELTZ-ZILLIKEN<br />
Heckingstrasse 20, 54439 Saarburg<br />
T: +49 (6581) 2456, info@zilliken-vdp.de<br />
www.zilliken-vdp.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Hans-Joachim and Philipp Zilliken<br />
Contact: Dorothee Zilliken<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 80,000 (100 % white)/13 ha<br />
We take our hats off to Dorothee Zilliken<br />
who maintains the cruising altitude<br />
of this family-run estate in Saarburg<br />
with warmth and charm – while carefully<br />
evolving and extending the wine range as well.<br />
Last year, we were allowed to taste a Trockenbeerenauslese<br />
which left us no choice but to award a<br />
100-point score. This year we were astounded by<br />
the estate Riesling: a wine of such raciness and<br />
class, whichwould easily pass as a village or single-site<br />
wine elsewhere. The GG from the parcel<br />
“Auf der Rausch”, presented for the first time in a<br />
reserve style with 18 months maturation on lees,<br />
convinced us with flying colours: truly subtle!<br />
94 2019 Saarburg Rausch Riesling GG<br />
Clearly defined nose with apricot, peach and mirabelle<br />
plums, also subtle spice. On the palate there is juice and<br />
sweet fruit, very clear in expression, good balance, the acidity<br />
is ripe and delicate. Minerality and format in harmony.<br />
12 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
94 2018 Saarburg Auf der Rausch Riesling GG<br />
Clear, light yellow. On the nose racy minerality, crushed rock,<br />
peach blossom and lime, multi-layered and fresh. On the palate<br />
juicy citrus fruit, fine phenolics, balanced and dense, mineral<br />
traction, balanced acidity. Elegance and power, potential!<br />
11 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
92 2019 »Alte Reben« Saarburg Riesling tr.<br />
91 2019 Saarburg Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 »Butterfly« Riesling feinherb<br />
89 2019 Saarburg Riesling feinherb<br />
91 2019 Saarburg Riesling Kabinett<br />
91 2019 Ockfen Bockstein Riesling Kabinett<br />
90 2019 Saarburg Rausch Riesling Kabinett<br />
93 2019 Saarburg Rausch Riesling Auslese<br />
Clear, medium yellow. On the nose blossom honey, sultanas,<br />
dates, herb garden savouriness, ripe citrus fruits; rich. Balanced<br />
and powerful on the palate, ripe acidity, peach nectar<br />
nuances, mineral traction, very dense structure with a great<br />
length. Potential for decades. 8 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
93 2019 Saarburg Rausch Riesling Spätlese<br />
Clear, medium yellow. On the nose very ripe, bright fruit,<br />
some blossom honey and dried apricots. On the palate powerful<br />
tension, texture, peach and madarine notes, mineral<br />
underlay and very finely integrated. Great length, lots of potential.<br />
8 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
Very clear and tidy on the nose, citrusy, subtle slate notes<br />
and marigold. On the palate juicy, fresh acidity, quite delicate<br />
and subtle, but also with a firm Saar Riesling style.<br />
Immensely balanced and nuanced, fresh and delicate.<br />
12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
236 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Mosel | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT REINHOLD FRANZEN<br />
Gartenstrasse 14, 56814 Bremm<br />
T: +49 (2675) 412, info@weingut-franzen.de<br />
www.weingut-franzen.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Kilian Franzen<br />
Contact: Kilian and Angelina Franzen<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 80,000 (98 % white, 2 % red)/10 ha<br />
The Bremmer Calmont, Europe’s steepest<br />
vineyard, is the habitat of Angelina<br />
and Kilian Franzen. The fact that they<br />
can handle this monumental mountain was already<br />
evident when the Falstaff Jury voted<br />
them “Newcomers of the Year” in 2018. Since<br />
then, they have not forfeited its youthful energy<br />
but their wines have gained more sobriety<br />
and polish. The parcel selection “Fachkaul” is<br />
exemplary in its subtlety – it manages to dissolve<br />
that absolutely typical Calmont richness<br />
into the ethereal. In order to remain entirely in<br />
the estate’s diction: the enthusiasm was really<br />
great.<br />
94 2018 Bremmer Calmont Fachkaul Riesling<br />
Ripe spicy tones, but also still reductive echoes of youthfulness.<br />
Poised and plump on the palate with a soft base and a<br />
quite expansive, generous structure. Elegant, long-lasting<br />
acidity, mineral extract and a very serious construction.<br />
12 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
yeasty spice, bringing together physical strength and minerality.<br />
12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2018 »Zeit« Riesling<br />
93 2018 »Grosses Gewächs« Bremm Calmont<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Some new wood, but also a nuanced Riesling spiciness, curry,<br />
cumin, dried chilli, apple and ripe nectarine. Seamlessly<br />
round and plump on the palate, sweetness and acidity are at<br />
one with the body, the minerality supports but does not dominate.<br />
Has fire! 12 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2019 Neef Frauenberg Riesling trocken<br />
Slate spice on the nose and crushed rock nuances. On the<br />
palate there is great volume but also a lot of substance and<br />
texture, still compactly clenched, ripe acidity and fruity accompanied<br />
sweetness. A very characterful wine that translates<br />
the warmth of the site into density.<br />
12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 »Der Sommer war sehr gross«<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Peach on the nose, peppery and balsamic notes with a hint of<br />
over-ripeness. On the palate there are fine-grained phenolics<br />
on a markedly soft background, a round flow accompanied by<br />
90 2019 »Quarzit Schiefer« Riesling trocken<br />
Flint and yeast on the nose, some bergamot. On the palate<br />
medium-bodied with a lively sweetness-acidity interplay, a<br />
slight reductive tinge, lots of juiciness and a good balance<br />
with mineral perceptions that remain present for a long<br />
time. 12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
237
WEINGUT LEO FUCHS<br />
Hauptstrasse 3, 56829 Pommern<br />
T: +49 (2672) 1326, wein@leo-fuchs.de<br />
www.leo-fuchs.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Thursdays 17–19 hrs,<br />
Fridays 13–19 hrs, Saturdays 10–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Ulrich and Bruno Fuchs<br />
Contact: Ulrich and Bruno Fuchs<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 80,000 (100 % white)/11 ha<br />
Weingut Leo Fuchs is one of the oldest<br />
and most long-standing estates<br />
in Pommern on the Terrassenmosel.<br />
It has been owned by the same family since<br />
1624 and is currently run by oenologist Ulrich<br />
Fuchs. His eleven hectares in the strikingly<br />
steep sites of this subregion bring forth powerful,<br />
fruit-forward Mosel Rieslings which tend<br />
towards the slightly sweeter side of the stylistic<br />
spectrum. We like that the inherent saltiness of<br />
the wines always appears behind that sweetness<br />
– we can taste the Mosel slate. The estate’s<br />
Vinothek, or wine shop “Pomaria” is a local<br />
hotspot for vinophiles.<br />
91 2019 Pommern Zeisel Riesling<br />
Spätlese trocken<br />
Scents of pear, some yellow fruit with pronounced aromas<br />
and fine spicy notes. On the palate there is clear, fine-grained<br />
volume, concentrated fruit, dried wild apricot, citrus peel<br />
and lots of juice. A good citrusy-salty acidic finish.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
Amalfi lemons and a fine acidity. Concentrated, fresh with a<br />
fine interplay of sun-sweet southern fruit and citric acidity.<br />
8,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 Pommern Rosenberg<br />
Gewürztraminer Auslese feinherb<br />
90 2018 »Grosses Gewächs« Pommern<br />
Rosenberg Riesling trocken<br />
Complex on the nose, with ripe and sumptuous (yellow) fruit<br />
also sweet apple and yellow pear. Warmth and crisp hints, a<br />
powerful structure with well-integrated acidity and vivid<br />
even accentuated sweetness. Concluded with a herbal spice<br />
on the finish. 14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
90 2019 »Von Alten Reben« Klotten<br />
Brauneberg Riesling Auslese feinherb<br />
Mineral spiciness on the nose, slate followed by distinct floral<br />
nuances, orange blossom and zest. Round and ripe on the<br />
palate, distinct sweetness, also sweet and yellow-fruited in<br />
flavour with subtle acidity. On the finish notes of bitter orange,<br />
kumquat and tart herbs. 12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
92 2019 Pommern Zeisel Riesling Auslese<br />
Bright yet deep on the nose with aromas of peach and dried<br />
apricot. Juicy on the palate with sun-ripened stone fruit,<br />
91 2019 Pommern Rosenberg Riesling<br />
Spätlese feinherb<br />
Fine spiciness on the nose, followed by mirabelle plums,<br />
yellow fruit and a hint of candied orange peel and meadow<br />
herbs. Round and flowing on the palate, balanced sweetness,<br />
juicy with grip and balance. Stony-minerality on the<br />
finish with a well-concentrated tensity and preserved lemon<br />
scent. 11 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
238 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT GEIERSLAY<br />
Mosel | WINERIES<br />
Moselweinstrasse 1, 54487 Wintrich<br />
T: +49 (6534) 18211, weingut-geierslay@t-online.de<br />
www.geierslay.de<br />
Cellar Door: daily from 9–18 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Max Kilburg<br />
Contact: Max Kilburg<br />
Hectares: 15 ha<br />
Max Kilburg, who cultivates the fifteen<br />
hectares of the family-run Weingut<br />
Geierslay in Wintrich, is giving it quite<br />
some bottle. The white wines from the 2019 vintage<br />
and the reds from 2018 together are the best<br />
range of wines this young cellar master has yet<br />
presented. In comparison to previous years, these<br />
wines come across as a tad more grown-up, more<br />
sober, they are altogether more convincing. Max<br />
Kilburg understands the handling of fruit-sweet<br />
and noble sweet wines and has real talent for<br />
Spätburgunder – while his dry Riesling from the<br />
Ohligsberg site is a real statement and a glimpse<br />
of what might yet lie in store.<br />
94 2019 Wintrich Ohligsberg Riesling trocken<br />
Cool minerality on the nose, crushed rock and wet stone,<br />
stone fruit, white peach, apple and hints of slate. Taut and<br />
leanly built with good density, has tension and pull, phenolic<br />
layers, dry and with fine tartness. Good balance, young and<br />
talented. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2019 »Alte Reben« Wintrich<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Scents of stone fruit, vine peach and mirabelle plums, ripe<br />
apples, slate spice nuances and meadow flowers. Lovely<br />
depth in a slender body, wet slate, spicy apple, phenolic layers,<br />
mineral and elegant. A calm wine showing real provenance.<br />
12 Vol.-%. cork/screwcap, €<br />
92 2017 Wintrich Ohligsberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Complex Pinot nose with cassis, cherry, fine wood spice,<br />
sage, orange blossom and violets. Dense and tense on the<br />
palate, with good extract and balance of the elements,<br />
compact structure, vivid tannins with the slate forming the<br />
spicy foundation. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2019 Piesport Goldtröpfchen<br />
Riesling Spätlese<br />
Medium, clear yellow. On the nose invigorating citrus fruit,<br />
mineral underlay, tangerine, herbal spice and some blossom<br />
honey notes. Vibrant fruit on the palate, citrus, lively acidity,<br />
good balance, lots of tension, densely integrated. Long and<br />
fresh finish. 7,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 »Alte Reben« Wintrich<br />
Riesling feinherb<br />
89 2019 Spätburgunder Rosé trocken<br />
89 2018 »Sax« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
88 2018 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
90 2019 Piesport Goldtröpfchen<br />
Riesling Kabinett<br />
90 2019 Wintrich Ohligsberg Riesling Kabinett<br />
91 2019 »Alte Reben« Piesport Riesling tr.<br />
Yellow-fruity ambience on the nose, vine peach, passion<br />
fruit, tea, clear slate notes. Also clearly marked by origin<br />
on the palate, you think you are standing in a warm slate<br />
vineyard with pronounced minerality, apple notes and phenolic<br />
astringency. A wine with depth and length.<br />
12 Vol.-%, cork/screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
239
WEINGUT GRANS-FASSIAN<br />
Römerstrasse 28, 54340 Leiwen<br />
T: +49 (6507) 3170, weingut@grans-fassian.de<br />
www.grans-fassian.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Catherina Grans, Kilian Klein<br />
Contact: Catherina Grans<br />
Hectares: 13 ha<br />
With its lively acidity and verve, the<br />
2019 vintage was a downright invitation<br />
to play – and Catharina<br />
Grans accepted it promptly. Sweetness and<br />
acidity already have a proper arc of tension in<br />
the GGs – emphatically salty in the Dhron<br />
Hofberg, floral and buffered in the Piesporter<br />
Goldtröpfchen, spicy and dense in the Trittenheim<br />
Apotheke, rich and yellow-fruited in the<br />
Leiwen Laurentiuslay. We also found an absolutely<br />
targeted balance in the fruit-sweet and<br />
nobly sweet wines – with a most satisfactory<br />
outcome: a great vintage plus a great winemaker<br />
results in great wines.<br />
93 2019 Dhron Hofberg Riesling GG<br />
Concentrated fruit, apricot, also yellow flowers, spice, floral<br />
notes and warm greenhouse scents. Starts with a lively and<br />
cultivated acidity, slight saltiness, good substance, ripe yellow<br />
fruit, plus phenolic hints. Soft and dense.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2019 Piesport Goldtröpfchen Riesling GG<br />
Bluebell on the nose followed by stone fruit like peach and mirabelle<br />
plums, floral and spicy notes emerge too. On the palate<br />
there is pointed and taut acidity, the finely pronounced fruitiness<br />
is well integrated with phenolic tartness. Substance with<br />
a good length and potential. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2019 Leiwen Laurentiuslay Riesling GG<br />
90 2019 Trittenheim Riesling Kabinett<br />
90 2019 »Alte Reben« Leiwen Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 »Mineralschiefer« Riesling trocken<br />
93 2019 Trittenheim Apotheke<br />
Riesling Spätlese<br />
93 2019 Trittenheim Apotheke<br />
Riesling Auslese<br />
93 2019 Trittenheim Apotheke Riesling GG<br />
Classic Mosel nose, but spicier and more condensed, with<br />
emerging scents. Shows the opulence and generosity of the<br />
apothecary, has enough style to avoid exuberance. Well balanced<br />
and a mix of classic and modern that succeeds well.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
94 2019 »Goldkapsel« Trittenheim Apotheke<br />
Riesling Auslese<br />
Yellow and white gold in colour. On the nose summer pear, in<br />
addition honeydew melon, spices and subtle fine herbs. On<br />
the palate ripe medlars, candied lime peel and a fine, dense<br />
sweetness. Attractive balance in the flow. Very expressive<br />
and long with potential. 8 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
89 2019 »Flussterrassen« Riesling<br />
Apricot and white peach on the nose, with a fine sweetness-acidity<br />
interplay on the palate, on the drier side of the<br />
spectrum "halbtrocken". Polished and juicy with good<br />
length and distinct mineral perception on the finish.<br />
12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
240 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT HAIN<br />
Mosel | WINERIES<br />
Am Domhof 5, 54498 Piesport<br />
T: +49 (6507) 2442, info@weingut-hain.de<br />
www.weingut-hain.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–18 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Gernot Hain<br />
Contact: Gernot and Susanne Hain<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 80,000 (95 % white, 5 % red)/10 ha<br />
Sometimes it is simply best to concentrate<br />
on one thing only – just like Gernot Hain<br />
concentrates on the top Mosel site<br />
Goldtröpfchen in Piesport. On the heavily<br />
slate-influenced soils, he succeeds in bringing<br />
forth savoury, tension-laden wines with beautiful<br />
site expression – continuing a family tradition<br />
that reaches back into the 17th century<br />
with great ability and passion. He demonstrates<br />
this talent just as well for the residually<br />
sweet wines – they impressed us in particular<br />
this year. The showpiece amongst them is the<br />
full-bodied and balanced Auslese which has a<br />
long term ageing potential.<br />
91 2019 Piesport Goldtröpfchen Riesling GG<br />
Clear, medium yellow. Flint, lime zest, lemon balm and herbal<br />
spice on the nose. On the palate, mineral traction, fine phenolics,<br />
citrus fruits and red grapefruit. Overall good tension, medium<br />
body and length. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2019 Piesport Goldtröpfchen<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 »Alte Reben« Piesport Goldtröpfchen<br />
Riesling feinherb<br />
Clear, beautiful yellow. Fine citrus fruit, orange blossom,<br />
peach and lime. Fine acidity on the palate, discreet sweetness,<br />
balanced, somewhat phenolic, again ripe citrus fruit,<br />
lemon balm and elderberry. Pleasant structure and length,<br />
perfect with Asian dishes. 11,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
93 2019 Piesport Goldtröpfchen<br />
Riesling Auslese<br />
Clear, medium yellow. On the nose rich, ripe citrus fruits,<br />
mango, peach, candied orange peel and hints of blossom<br />
honey. On the palate lots of texture, ripe citrus fruit, honeydew<br />
melon, some honey with a fine balance. Good structure<br />
and length. 7,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2019 »Felsterrassen« Piesport<br />
Goldtröpfchen Riesling Spätlese<br />
Clear, medium yellow. On the nose flint, pink grapefruit, ripe<br />
apricot and hints of pineapple. Texture and fine sweetness on<br />
the palate, peach juice, dried fruits, good structure, medium<br />
length. A ripe fruity finish. 8 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2018 Piesport Falkenberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Lots of cassis and wood spice on the nose, also blackberry,<br />
black cherry and black pepper. Good concentration on the<br />
palate with straightforward power, compelling grip and<br />
high quality tannins, dark fruit and a slight astringency.<br />
Good ageing potential. 13,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
241
WEINGUT HEINRICHSHOF<br />
Chur-Kölner-Strasse 23, 54492 Zeltingen-Rachtig<br />
T: +49 (6532) 3151, Mosel@Weingut-Heinrichshof.de<br />
www.weingut-heinrichshof.de<br />
Cellar Door: Wednesdays through Saturdays 14–18 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Peter and Ulrich Griebeler<br />
Contact: Peter Griebeler<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 70,000 (95 % white, 5 % red)/8 ha<br />
The evolution of the Griebeler brothers continues<br />
apace. It was in 2014 that Peter and<br />
Ulrich Griebeler took over the Heinrichshof,<br />
since then, they have almost tripled their<br />
vineyard area to eight hectares. The brothers make<br />
quiet, understated wines that come with excellent<br />
balance; they are experimenting with maturation in<br />
wood – and their 2018 “Zulast” Riesling which matured<br />
in a 500-litre barrel demonstrates how well<br />
they pull this off. Apart from its Riesling freshness,<br />
the wine possesses an almost Burgundian mouthfeel.<br />
But clearly the brothers are also masters of the<br />
classic Mosel style – whether that is the dry Zeltinger<br />
Sonnenuhr Rotlay or a creamy Beerenauslese.<br />
91 2018 »Zulast« Zeltingen Sonnenuhr<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Clear, medium yellow. On the nose smoke, hints of vanilla,<br />
apricot, peach,and mango notes, aged in 500 litre barrels.<br />
Powerful on the palate, fine acidity, citrus fruit, minerality,<br />
texture, again influenced by the barrel. Good structure,<br />
unique. 12 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2018 »Fass #73« Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Clear, medium yellow. On the nose vanilla and toast, some<br />
smoke, apple peel, pear and delicate floral scents. On the<br />
palate balanced acidity, juicy, with texture, again apple and<br />
pear, some hazelnut as well. A good integrated structure,<br />
medium to good length. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
94 2019 Zeltingen Sonnenuhr<br />
Riesling Beerenauslese<br />
On the nose passion fruit, green apple and toffee with density<br />
and intensity. Starts very creamily on the palate, followed<br />
by nice concentration, good extract and precise acidity. Overall<br />
good balance as well as a pleasant astringency in the<br />
powerful sweetness. 7,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2019 Zeltingen Sonnenuhr<br />
Riesling Auslese<br />
Clear, medium yellow. Still restrained nose with ripe orange,<br />
mango, candied lime and after aeration hints of blossom<br />
honey. On the palate nice texture, honey, apricot, ripe citrus<br />
fruits, grippy acidity and a rather elegant structure. Finishes<br />
with a hint of spice. 8 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 Zeltingen Sonnenuhr Rotlay<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 Zeltingen Schlossberg Riesling tr.<br />
89 2019 Zeltingen Sonnenuhr Riesling<br />
Spätlese feinherb<br />
88 2019 »Römische Kapelle« Riesling trocken<br />
88 2019 Weissburgunder trocken<br />
88 2019 Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
89 2018 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
91 2018 »Réserve« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Cherry and fine wood scents on the nose, the wood is not<br />
dominant but is well integrated. On the palate there is<br />
sweet extract and fine acidic flow. Powerfully built, yet never<br />
losing elegance, juicy and with sensitively integrated<br />
wood. Pinot feeling. 13,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
242 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
CLASSISCHES WEINGUT<br />
HOFFRANZEN<br />
Schulstrasse 22, 54346 Mehring<br />
Mosel | WINERIES<br />
T: +49 (6502) 8441, www.weingut-hoffranzen.com<br />
www.weingut-hoffranzen.com<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Hans Hoffranzen and Carolin Hoffranzen<br />
Contact: Carolin Hoffranzen<br />
Hectares: 10 ha<br />
We already attested to Carolin Hoffranzen’s<br />
strong performance in<br />
last year’s guide. This year, we can<br />
attest to further improvement. The wines show<br />
both profile and character, like the layered and<br />
stylish “Layterrassen” Riesling or the off-dry,<br />
tightly woven “Contur” Riesling which combines<br />
charm with depth – oh, and we also need<br />
to mention the slate-spice of the “Alte Reben”<br />
Riesling. It was only in 2019 that Carolin Hoffranzen<br />
took over at the »Classisches Weingut<br />
Hoffranzen« in Mehring from her parents Gertrud<br />
and Hans Hoffranzen – evidentally a great<br />
evolution seems underway!<br />
91 2019 »Layterrassen« Mehring Blattenberg<br />
Layet Riesling trocken<br />
Smoky notes on the nose, toasty aromas, charcoal, plus ripe<br />
yellow fruit and hints of thyme. Clear and slender, firm structure,<br />
also due to the wood ageing, fine lemon juice, sweet<br />
apricot and fine phenolics. A multi-layered wine with style<br />
and character. 12 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2019 »Caro« Mehring Blattenberg<br />
Riesling Spätlese<br />
Delicate nose of almonds, verbena and white peach. Fresh<br />
and juicy on the palate with crunchy acidity and a fine, balanced<br />
sweetness like that of white crystal sugar, good balance<br />
and mineral undertones. Pleasant aromatic finish. Elegant<br />
and full of finesse. 8 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
88 2019 Mehring Riesling trocken<br />
91 2019 »Contur« Mehring<br />
Blattenberg Riesling<br />
Stone fruit on the nose, fresh bay leaf, apricot and tangerine,<br />
also notes of ripe grapefruit. On the palate juicy and with<br />
charmingly integrated sweetness, animating, well woven<br />
acidity, fine mineral spiciness; lean and clear. Finely crafted,<br />
elegant, long finish. 12 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2018 »Reserve« Mehring Goldkupp<br />
Weisser Burgunder trocken<br />
Lily of the valley on the nose, fresh corn, toasted and smoky<br />
aromas, ripe melon and also hints of quince. Full-bodied and<br />
voluminous on the palate with ripe acidity and sweet extract,<br />
soft base; shows the warmth and generosity of the warm<br />
year. Young, still needs time. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 »Alte Reben« Mehring Blattenberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Apple and apple peel on the nose, herbs, the summery<br />
scent of a vineyard, warm slate, some rosemary and caraway.<br />
Multi-layered on the palate, fruitiness, spicy-slate nuances,<br />
supported by acidity and citric tartness which combine<br />
to form a coherent ensemble. Multi-faceted.<br />
11,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
243
WEINGUT VON HÖVEL<br />
Agritiusstrasse 5–6, 54329 Konz-Oberemmel<br />
T: +49 (6501) 15384, info@weingut-vonhoevel.de<br />
www.weingut-vonhoevel.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Maximilian von Kunow<br />
Contact: Maximilian von Kunow<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 180,000 (100 % white)/20 ha<br />
Once again, the lively Max von Kunow<br />
has a great vintage in his cellar. He<br />
used the 2019 vintage to hone his idea<br />
of light yet concentrated Saar Riesling further.<br />
This year, it appears, that the slightly warmer<br />
sites seem to come out ever so slightly on top:<br />
the Kanzemer Hörecker – an enclave within<br />
the Altenberg site – shines with its demanding,<br />
beautiful extract in this “Grosse Lage” wine (it<br />
has just a touch too much residual sugar to<br />
pass as a dry GG) similarly to the profound<br />
Spätlese. His Scharzhofberger Kabinett registers<br />
at a comparably exalted level.<br />
93 2019 Wiltingen Scharzhofberg Riesling GG<br />
In the closed nose, aromas of flowers, apple, lemon peel, fine<br />
smoke and a hint of warm stone emerge. Taut and compact<br />
on the palate, tension and traction, clearly defined muscle,<br />
also texture and juiciness. The fine minerality shows the<br />
greatness of the site. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2019 Oberemmel Hütte Riesling GG<br />
In the powerful nose, scents of stone fruit, grapefruit, apricot,<br />
peach, yellow apple, flowers and herbs. Well built on the palate<br />
with athletic power, juice and texture supported by good substance<br />
and density with grapefruit notes. Good concentration<br />
on the midpalate, mineral finish. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2019 Oberemmel Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 »Saar« Riesling feinherb<br />
92 2019 Wiltingen Scharzhofberg<br />
Riesling Kabinett<br />
91 2019 Oberemmel Hütte Riesling Spätlese<br />
89 2019 »Saar S« Riesling Kabinett<br />
93 2019 Kanzem Hörecker<br />
Riesling Grosse Lage<br />
Integrated wild silky texture of lively smoky notes, herbal nuances,<br />
stone dust, light fruit and herbs. Still slightly astringent<br />
and phenolic on the palate with tart hints and bitter notes. Finely<br />
sweet fruit, deep minerality. Needs time. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork<br />
94 2019 Kanzem Hörecker Riesling Spätlese<br />
On the nose delicate fruit, sweet pear, blossoms and fine<br />
spiciness. Tightly woven on the palate, a calm balance, has<br />
depth without heaviness. Creaminess and subtle power combined<br />
with smoky minerality. Delicately chiselled acidic<br />
structure that weaves itself into delicate sweetness.<br />
7,5 Vol.-%. cork<br />
92 2019 Niedermennig Riesling trocken<br />
Some herbs and light yellow fruit, fine spices and a smoky<br />
minerality. Clear and tightly woven on the palate, lots of<br />
juice and fine phenolics, a finish with stone dust, notes of<br />
apple, stone fruit and herbal nuances with a tender delicate<br />
bitter note. 12 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
244 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Mosel | WINERIES<br />
<br />
BIOWEINGUT HUBERTUSHOF<br />
Paulsstrasse 88, 54470 Lieser<br />
T: +49 (6531) 6356, info@weingut-hubertushof.de<br />
www.weingut-hubertushof.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–19 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Hubert Botzet<br />
Contact: Hubert Botzet<br />
Hectares: 10 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
For generations our organic wine estate<br />
has stood for one hundred per cent passion<br />
and respect for nature. This is how<br />
we create a basis for high-quality wines,” reports<br />
the Botzet family. They cultivate ten hectares<br />
of vines in sites like Lieser Niederberg<br />
and Lieser Schlossberg. The Devonian slate<br />
soils of the steep sites lend minerality and spice<br />
to the wines. With the takeover by Hubert<br />
Botzet, a new generation is now at the helm.<br />
He presented ambitious and honest wines. All<br />
of them are vegan – only “pure grapes” are allowed<br />
into the glass.<br />
90 2018 »X-treme« Maring-Noviand<br />
Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese trocken<br />
Ripe apricot on the nose, apple and also freshly grated lemon<br />
peel. On the palate lean and tightly built with good extract<br />
and tension, the acidity is ripe and lively with salty undertones<br />
and hints of the afore mentioned ripe, juicy stone fruit with a<br />
mineral underpinning. Classic style. 12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2017 »Prestige« Lieser Niederberg Helden<br />
Riesling Auslese trocken<br />
Mineral hints on the nose, a notion of sparkle, ripe stone fruit<br />
scents of papaya and passion fruit. Juicy and sweetness from<br />
the fruit on the palate, the ripe acidity is well integrated with a<br />
slender construction. Charming Auslese, which gets its tension<br />
from the mineral spiciness. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2016 »Premium« Bernkastel Kurfürstlay<br />
Riesling Spätlese feinherb<br />
Woody spice and ripe stone fruit on the nose, with a tendacy<br />
to have more smoky and spicy nuances. Traditional, artisanal<br />
Mosel style, which shows in the lean, taut shape, with fruit,<br />
sweetness, woody spice and slate minerality of the sites.<br />
Beautiful classic, potential. 11 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
91 2018 »Engelstropfen« Lieser Niederberg<br />
Helden Riesling Auslese<br />
Caramelised apricot and peach, honeycomb, rose petals, fine<br />
slate spice and herbs on the nose. On the palate, pronounced<br />
acidity provides balance, the sweetness is accompanied by<br />
mineral spice with nuances of honeyed stone fruit. Finely<br />
crafted. 9 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2018 »Elite« Riesling halbtrocken<br />
89 2016 »Urgestein« Lieser Schlossberg<br />
Riesling Kabinett halbtrocken<br />
88 2019 »Leichtsinn« Maring-Noviand<br />
Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett feinherb<br />
87 2019 Rivaner trocken<br />
87 2019 Pinot Noir Rosé trocken<br />
89 2018 »Prestige« Lieser Niederberg Helden<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
89 2018 »Mythos« Dornfelder trocken<br />
89 2017 Bernkastel-Kues Weisenstein<br />
Riesling Spätlese trocken<br />
Scents of ripe peach, mango, ripe yellow apple, citrus and a<br />
hint of spice. On the palate, a ripe acid structure and juicy<br />
fruit, apricot and apple notes, soft and slightly viscous, with<br />
slaty nuances. Lean and charming with a fine lemon juice<br />
touch in the finish. 12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
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245
WEINGUT CARL AUGUST<br />
IMMICH-BATTERIEBERG<br />
Im Alten Tal 2, 56850 Enkirch<br />
T: +49 (6541) 815907, info@batterieberg.com<br />
www.batterieberg.com<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Gernot Kollmann<br />
Contact: Gernot Kollmann<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 50,000 (100 % white)/13 ha<br />
The memorable label of this winery reminds<br />
us of the fact that the monopole<br />
site Batterieberg was blasted into the<br />
rock with numerous loads of dynamite (a battery<br />
of explosives filled with gunpowder) in the<br />
middle of the 19th century. So you can imagine<br />
that the vines are rooted in quite stony ground.<br />
The other sites, however, possess excellent slate<br />
terroir – above all the Zeppwingert, already famous<br />
in Napoleon’s time. From two of its terraces<br />
of more than 100-year-old, ungrafted<br />
vines, estate director Gernot Kollmann crafts a<br />
Réserve that is allowed to mature for two whole<br />
years on its fine lees. Superb!<br />
94 2018 »Réserve« Enkirch Zeppwingert<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Brilliant golden yellow. Complex aroma of ripe apple, redcurrant<br />
leaf, white peach and lemon sorbet. On the palate there is<br />
a fine style in an ideal balance with depth and a long finish. On<br />
the finish, herbal notes and an aroma of brioche.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
seems ideally balanced. A precise wine with a long finish.<br />
12 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2019 »Enkirch Ellergrub« Riesling<br />
93 2019 Enkirch Zeppwingert Riesling<br />
Intense on the nose with wonderful depth. A scent of very<br />
ripe pear, yellow apple, lemon zest. Fine acidity on the palate,<br />
balanced by a fitting sweetness. Long finish with a medium<br />
body, with an apparent finishing note of dried apricot.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2019 Enkirch Batterieberg<br />
Riesling Monopollage<br />
Golden yellow in the glass. Very ripe on the nose with scents<br />
of mandarine, grapefruit, lemon zest and very ripe lychee. On<br />
the palate, aromas of lavender, lemon, ripe apricot and also<br />
graphite nuances develop. Well supported by fine acidity<br />
with a long finish. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2019 »Escheburg« Riesling<br />
Medium golden yellow. Complex nose with aromas of apricot,<br />
grapefruit, lemon zest and notes of garrigue. On the palate<br />
there is fine acidity and very good extract, everything<br />
90 2019 »CAI« Riesling Kabinett trocken<br />
Intense aroma of ripe yellow peach, lemon and pear. On the<br />
palate, aromas of green apple, orange zest and lime with<br />
lively acidity and a restrained sweetness. Pleasant light<br />
Kabinett and yet a good finish. 11,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
246 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Mosel | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT KARTHÄUSERHOF<br />
Karthäuserhof 1, 54292 Trier<br />
T: +49 (651) 5121, mail@karthaeuserhof.com<br />
www.karthaeuserhof.com<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8.30–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Mathieu Kauffmann<br />
Contact: Richard Grosche<br />
Hectares: 26 ha<br />
This estate – which according to the information<br />
they provide is the eighth-oldest in<br />
the world – was founded in 1335 and has<br />
been owned by seven generations of the same<br />
family since 1811. The bottles with the narrow<br />
neck label stand for lip-smackingly dry, incredibly<br />
well-maturing Ruwer Riesling. In recent years we<br />
did not hear that much from this super-privileged<br />
monopole site with its iron-rich slate soils. However,<br />
in the spring of 2020, the thunderbolt struck:<br />
with Richard Grosche as managing director and<br />
Mathieu Kauffmann as technical director (the<br />
former team from von Buhl) is now at the helm.<br />
We cannot wait to see what they will achieve.<br />
91 2018 Eitelsbach Karthäuserhofberg<br />
Riesling GG<br />
Some panforte on the nose, with noticeable hints of botrytis<br />
and peach. On the palate there is a silky approach, concentrated<br />
fruit and quite animating sweetness. Has a lot of<br />
everything, but also seems a bit contrived. Little minerality.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2019 Eitelsbach Karthäuserhofberg<br />
Riesling Spätlese<br />
Spicy slate nuances on the nose with balsamic and slight citrus<br />
undertones. On the palate there is a lightweight impression,<br />
leaner and more elegant than a Kabinett with a fine and<br />
homogeneous aftertaste. A very delicate structure that nevertheless<br />
shows a lot of potential. 9 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
89 2019 »Schieferkristall« Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 Eitelsbach Karthäuserhofberg<br />
Riesling Kabinett<br />
On the nose aromas of brown sugar, candied lemon and orange<br />
peel, delicate floral notes, violet pastilles, plus an almost<br />
medicinal undertone. On the palate, given the vintage,<br />
comparatively soft acidity, silky sweetness, good to medium-weight<br />
extract. 10,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
93 2019 Eitelsbach Karthäuserhofberg<br />
Riesling Auslese<br />
Fresh, spicy nose of hay, white currants, budding white lilacs<br />
and a whiff of sea breeze. Also aromatic on the palate, fresh<br />
hay and apricots, brisk acidity complements the juicy sweetness.<br />
Incredibly long finish, great balance.<br />
8,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2019 »Alte Reben« Eitelsbach Riesling tr.<br />
Intensely mineral on the nose with mineral depth on the<br />
palate too. In addition a poised, silky structure with a touch<br />
of phenolics, ripe acidity, good homogeneity and good<br />
length. A full-bodied Ortswein with very good potential.<br />
12 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
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247
REICHSGRAF VON KESSELSTATT<br />
Schlossgut Marienlay, 54317 Morscheid<br />
T: +49 (6500) 91690, info@kesselstatt.de<br />
www.kesselstatt.com<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Thursdays 8–16.30 hrs,<br />
Fridays 8–11 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Wolfgang Mertes<br />
Contact: Dr. Karsten Weyand<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 300,000 (100 % white)/46 ha<br />
With an imposing 46 hectares of<br />
vineyards on Mosel, Saar and Ruwer,<br />
Weingut Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt<br />
cultivates an unusually broad spectrum<br />
of top sites in the three river valleys of<br />
this region. For 650 years, it has been this estate’s<br />
aim to fashion the unmistakable personality<br />
of these great sites into unique Rieslings –<br />
and with the current vintage they have once<br />
again given justice to this aspiration. The dry<br />
Rieslings demonstrate a calm profundity and<br />
spice; the noble sweet wines, like the Beerenauslese<br />
from the Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr<br />
site, which evidently reflect origin.<br />
91 2019 »Alte Reben« Riesling trocken<br />
Fine spicy aroma of herbs and yellow stone fruit, freshly cut<br />
pineapple and hints of wet stone. On the palate, the wine is<br />
calm and juicy with texture and mineral spiciness, slender<br />
structure and yet has flavourful intensity; phenolic and almost<br />
a little bit peppery, young. 11,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
freshness and ripe acid structure; on the midpalate there is<br />
pronounced spicy-slate nuances. Real potential for years of<br />
ageing. Patience will be rewarded! 10 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2019 Wiltingen Scharzhofberg Riesling<br />
Kabinett feinherb<br />
93 2019 »#30« Brauneberg Juffer-Sonnenuhr<br />
Riesling Beerenauslese<br />
Brown sugar and lime peel, shows quite primary fruit on the<br />
nose. Comparatively sweet on the palate, but not very viscous.<br />
Extremely dense acidity, almost astringent. Medium<br />
depth and length, beautiful and refined interplay of the elements.<br />
7,5 Vol.-%. cork,<br />
92 2019 Graach Josephshöfer Monopol<br />
Riesling Spätlese<br />
Candied apricot on the nose, blossom honey and caramelised<br />
nuts, also hints of orange blossom. Generous on the palate,<br />
nice balance of fine acidity and juicy sweetness, fine phenolic<br />
tartness, slightly viscous but pleasant flow. Fine and charming.<br />
7,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2019 Piesport Goldtröpfchen<br />
Riesling Kabinett<br />
Herbal notes with spicy-slate notes, apricot, blossom honey<br />
and ripe apple. Well-balanced Kabinett with the necessary<br />
90 2019 Kasel Riesling trocken<br />
Delicately fruity nose with aromas of yellow stone fruit, apple,<br />
delicate scented flowers and also freshly grated lemon<br />
peel. Slenderly built, delicate Riesling in the style of a<br />
dry Kabinett, finely chiselled acidity, cool minerality, some<br />
lemon juice. Elegant flow. 11,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
248 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Mosel | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT NIKOLAUS KÖWERICH<br />
Maximinstrasse 11, 54340 Leiwen<br />
T: +49 (6507) 4282, info@weingutkoewerich.de<br />
www.weingutkoewerich.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Nick Köwerich<br />
Contact: Nick Köwerich<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 90,000 (100 % white)/10 ha<br />
By now it is a cherished tradition that<br />
each year Nick Köwerich also sends us<br />
mature wines to taste. This time he<br />
picked a Beerenauslese from the Laurentiuslay<br />
site and the 2009 vintage. Sheer poetry! Those<br />
who look at warm vintages – like 2009 – with<br />
scepticism will soon realise they are mistaken.<br />
A Riesling grown on slate will always turn into<br />
something noble when the wine is made by a<br />
skilled hand. But now to the current wines,<br />
which emphasize the mineral freshness of the<br />
vintage and as one of our tasters put it – it<br />
“conveys convivial charm.” Wonderful!<br />
92 2019 »GG« Leiwen Laurentiuslay<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Powerfully mineral on the nose, with just a hint of yellow<br />
fruit. On the palate very supple from the onset to the finish,<br />
plus a layer of very fine, mealy phenolics, lots of juiciness,<br />
good nerve, dense yet light-hearted. Round and without isolated<br />
sweetness. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
and concentrated background on the palate, light viscosity<br />
and ripe acidity with a dollop of mealy phenolics. A supple<br />
and calm Spätlese that conveys cosy charm.<br />
8,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2019 »Fräulein Mosel« Leiwen<br />
Laurentiuslay Riesling Kabinett<br />
95 2009 Leiwen Laurentiuslay<br />
Riesling Beerenauslese<br />
Herbal-spicy with scents of wormwood, a hint of petrol, yellow<br />
fruit notes, apricot, caramelised notes and a whiff of<br />
roast jus. Creamy and textural on the palate, intense sweetness,<br />
ripe acidity, complex and dense, salty. With the fullness<br />
of a ripe year, but also with balance. 8,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
93 2019 Leiwen Laurentiuslay<br />
Riesling Auslese<br />
Ripe apricot is joined by fine herbal notes, passion fruit, caramel.<br />
On the palate there is good concentration and density,<br />
the present acidity provides balance and life, good complexity.<br />
Some iodine and phenolics with a fine mineral character.<br />
8 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2019 Leiwen Laurentiuslay<br />
Riesling Spätlese<br />
Concentrated nose of apricot and papaya, also honey. Soft<br />
90 2019 »Herr Mosel« Köwerich<br />
Laurentiuslay Riesling trocken<br />
Citrusy scents, slate-spicy-smoky and herbaceous aromas<br />
on the nose; neat and complex. On the palate there is tension,<br />
but also content of fruit, minerality and juiciness. Not<br />
too sweet. Shows nonchalant elegance.<br />
12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
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249
WEINGUT SCHLOSS LIESER<br />
Am Markt 1, 54470 Lieser<br />
T: +49 (6531) 6431, info@weingut-schloss-lieser.de<br />
www.weingut-schloss-lieser.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 10–17 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–15 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Thomas Haag<br />
Contact: Thomas Haag<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 130,00 (100 % white)/23 ha<br />
For years now, Thomas Haag has maintained<br />
a breathtaking standard. The<br />
2019 vintage merely adds another glorious<br />
chapter to this saga. A move as brilliant<br />
as the Himmelreich GG, accompanied by such<br />
layered savouriness; an interplay of such ingeniously<br />
refined minerality as the Doctor<br />
Spätlese; and an aromatic explosion as complex<br />
as the “Lange Goldkapsel” Helden Auslese<br />
– that is great, great craft, thought through<br />
in the most minute detail and executed with<br />
well-versed precision and enormous passion.<br />
It goes without saying that the “simpler labels”<br />
are of extraordinary class!<br />
96 2019 Graach Himmelreich Riesling GG<br />
Ripe and also sublime nose with raisin, peach, spice, bay leaf<br />
and even hints of Asian spices. Quite brilliant acidity with<br />
traction and elegance leading lustily through the immaculately<br />
contoured texture. Straightforward and elegant, good<br />
complexity. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
juice, luscious and very tightly integrated. Very long finish,<br />
enormous potential. 7 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
91 2019 Brauneberg Juffer Riesling Kabinett<br />
94 2019 Brauneberg Juffer Sonnenuhr<br />
Riesling GG<br />
Smoky nose and concentrated, also hints of matchstick, yellow<br />
fruit and herbs form in the background, but still rather<br />
restrained. Taut, juicy, dense and elegant on the palate, determined<br />
and straightforward, no Riesling classic, but plenty<br />
of class. Young and talented. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
97 2019 Bernkastel Doctor Riesling Spätlese<br />
Mineral-spicy, dense on the nose, peach and pineapple fruit<br />
scents with a hint of toffee. On the palate there are creamy<br />
Spätlese motifs and lots of mineral interplay, juiciness, great<br />
energy and a length that is again entirely embraced in minerality.<br />
Great, noble and long-lasting. 7 Vol.-%. cork,<br />
96 2019 »Lange Goldkapsel« Lieser<br />
Niederberg Helden Riesling Auslese<br />
Clear, rich yellow. On the nose honey, spice, ripe fruits, dried<br />
apricot, dates, figs and hints of caramel. On the palate dense,<br />
textural sweetness, with nuances of spice, honey and lime<br />
92 2019 »Heldenstück« Lieser Riesling tr.<br />
Slightly floral with orange blossom scents, spicy slate<br />
notes and a hint of iodine. A stately body on the palate,<br />
quite homogeneous and balanced, ripe but also firm acidity,<br />
subtle sweetness and extract-supported. A structured<br />
wine without harshness or astringency, but with substance.<br />
Long finish. 12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
250 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT CARL LOEWEN<br />
Mosel | WINERIES<br />
Matthiasstrasse 30, 54340 Leiwen<br />
T: +49 (6507) 3094, mail@weingut-loewen.de<br />
www.weingut-loewen.de<br />
Cellar Door: Saturdays 13–16 hrs and by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Karl Josef and Christopher Loewen<br />
Contact: Karl Josef and Christopher Loewen<br />
Hectares: 16 ha<br />
Karl Josef and Christopher Loewen just<br />
manage to deliver once again with their<br />
2019 vintage – as is their wont: Mosel<br />
Rieslings that actually can encompass both finesse<br />
and expressiveness. The dry “1896”<br />
Riesling with the white label accomplishes this<br />
feat effortlessly: this subtle Riesling is our Falstaff-Tip<br />
this year. Its off-dry version from this<br />
vineyard planted in 1896 (red label) has more<br />
body and density and yet is a far cry from anything<br />
heavy. Such displays are anathema to the<br />
Loewens – where the focus is on solid craft and<br />
authenticity.<br />
94 2019 »1896« Riesling<br />
Intensely spicy on the nose, herbs, citrus notes, balsamic<br />
spicy slate nuances. Creamy on the palate, then taut in acidity<br />
and phenolic content, powerful and very long lasting tactile<br />
minerality. Spectacularly extract-rich, and this is realised<br />
in a very fine way. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
94 2018 »-8 ° Celsius« Leiwen Klostergarten<br />
Riesling Beerenauslese<br />
Mineral notes on the nose, peach and incense. On the palate<br />
saffron followed by yellow fruit, very concentrated, much extract,<br />
restrained acidity, smoky minerality, a hint of stone<br />
dust and a fine grip. Creamy, caramel, mineral finish, remains<br />
long on the palate. 7 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
89 2019 »Varidor« Riesling trocken<br />
93 2019 Longuich Maximin Herrenberg<br />
Riesling GG<br />
Blossom honey and crushed rock, mirabelle plums, herbal<br />
notes and spicy slate nuances. On the palate this is dense<br />
with very fine phenolics, intensely mineral on the palate,<br />
both chiselled and powerful. Great length, elegant acidity.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2019 Thörnich Ritsch Riesling GG<br />
Initially there are just aromas of spontaneous fermentation,<br />
but they dissipate quickly with candied lemon peel, smoke<br />
and tangerine notes emerging. On the palate silky and<br />
poised, quite calm and balanced, almost distinguished in its<br />
fine but rich texture. Fine acidity, terpenic finish.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2019 »1896« Longuich Maximin<br />
Herrenberg Riesling trocken<br />
A spiciness of great complexity on the nose, followed by<br />
ripe citrus notes, dried orange peel, spice box scents and a<br />
hint of over-ripeness. On the palate juicy, delicate but with<br />
great inner firmness and delicate acidity. A wonderfully<br />
playful, mineral palate. 12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
251
WEINGUT DR. LOOSEN<br />
St. Johannishof, 54470 Bernkastel-Kues<br />
T: +49 (6531) 3426, michael.bergmann@drloosen.de<br />
www.drloosen.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Bernhard Schug<br />
Contact: Ernst F. Loosen<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 400,000 (100 % white)/55 ha<br />
To get straight to the point: Erni Loosen’s<br />
2019 vintage is brilliant. The “Blauschiefer”<br />
already is a hit, or rather: it<br />
shows the kind of finesse that you do not usually<br />
expect from an estate Riesling. Our tasting<br />
jury used the term “style icon” to describe the<br />
Würzgarten Kabinett. When it came to the<br />
Spät- and Auslesen it was hard to differentiate<br />
scores – the wines are just so harmonious and<br />
rest within themselves to such a degree that<br />
mere numbers dissolve into hollow smoke.<br />
Thus Loosen’s wines continue on their path to<br />
greatness – onto the striking dry and noble<br />
sweet wines from the Erdener Prälat site.<br />
95 2014 »Réserve« Erden Prälat Riesling GG<br />
Lemon yellow with greenish reflections. Complex spiciness<br />
on the nose; warm brick, cumin, tikka masala. Smooth and<br />
full on the palate, an iron fist in a velvet glove but finishing<br />
gently with a delicate thread of acidity and subtle mineral<br />
spiciness. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
93 2019 »Alte Reben« Wehlen Sonnenuhr<br />
Riesling GG<br />
Yellow fruit like apricot and peach meet slate spice and citrus<br />
with Amalfi lemon scents followed by white flowers and<br />
a hint of cinnamon. Solid acidity, slightly salty and citric underlay<br />
meets fine yellow fruit, juice and suppleness. Clear<br />
profile that depicts the site. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2019 »Alte Reben« Ürzig Würzgarten<br />
Riesling GG<br />
Wherever it says “Würzgarten” on the label, Erni Loosen puts it<br />
in the bottle too; intense herbaceous nose underpinned by yellow<br />
fruit and mineral hints. Full-bodied, juicy and discreetly<br />
sweet on the palate, finely peppery and gingery with minerality<br />
too. Will mature well, good potential. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
98 2019 »Goldkapsel« Erden Prälat<br />
Riesling Auslese<br />
Fresh fragrant nose of honey and hay, citrus fruit, linden blossom<br />
and hints of herbs like thyme. On the palate a wonderfully<br />
deep acidity, plump yet light as a feather, highly elegant<br />
creaminess, exotic fruits like passion fruit. Incredibly cool,<br />
delicate sweetness. 8 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
92 2019 »Alte Reben« Erden Treppchen<br />
Riesling GG<br />
92 2019 »Alte Reben« Graach Himmelreich<br />
Riesling GG<br />
93 2019 Wehlen Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese<br />
93 2019 Ürzig Würzgarten Riesling Auslese<br />
93 2019 Ürzig Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese<br />
93 2019 Wehlen Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese<br />
92 2019 Ürzig Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett<br />
91 2019 »Blauschiefer« Riesling trocken<br />
Citrusy fragrance, citrus zest and spicy slate notes. On the<br />
palate juicy, light-bodied but expressive, nice freshness,<br />
lively, archetypal Mosel acidity, smooth background with<br />
present tactile minerality. An exceptionally fine Mosel<br />
Riesling. 12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
252 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT LORENZ<br />
Mosel | WINERIES<br />
Neustrasse 6, 54340 Detzem<br />
T: +49 (6507) 3802, info@lorenz-weine.com<br />
www.lorenz-weine.com<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Tobias Lorenz<br />
Contact: Tobias Lorenz<br />
Hectares: 10 ha<br />
Tobias Lorenz knows exactly how to<br />
translate the savoury slate minerality<br />
from his steep sites – which he cultivates<br />
with much backbreaking work – into his<br />
wines. He manages to do that across the spectrum,<br />
from his filigree Kabinett “Blauschiefer”<br />
via the substantial dry “Alte Reben GG” to the<br />
fascinating noble sweet top wines, like the Auslese<br />
“Alte Reben” from the Pfarrwingert site.<br />
In each and every one of these wines you can<br />
virtually feel, smell and taste this winemaker’s<br />
passion for his slate-dominated vineyards.<br />
These are most authentic, localised Rieslings<br />
at a very high standard.<br />
91 2019 »Alte Reben GG« Pölich Held<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Ripe apple and apricot on the nose, a hint of mint, also some<br />
cider and herbaceous notes. Powerfully built on the palate<br />
with good density and substance, firmly integrated, ripe and<br />
spicy acidity and a salty undertone. Structured wine with<br />
good potential for maturity. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
and wonderfully integrated acidity, the flow and drinking<br />
pleasure is downright challenged by the juiciness. Hard to resist.<br />
8,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 »Zusammensein« Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 »Am Horizont« Trittenheim Apotheke<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Aroma notes of spontaneous fermentation, herbs, tangerine,<br />
apricot and a hint of malt. Slenderly built on the palate yet<br />
with fullness, juicy fruit, white peach notes, cultivated acidity<br />
and fine slate spice nuances. Complex, classic Mosel elegance,<br />
long finish. 12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
93 2019 »Alte Reben« Detzem Maximiner<br />
Klosterlay Pfarrwingert Riesling Auslese<br />
Flows into the glass with a beautifully sunny yellow shimmers.<br />
Fresh nose of white flowers and crushed greens and a hint of<br />
cassis. On the palate a crunchy acidity with delicious tangy<br />
sweetness, early-season apples and white berries. Cool and long<br />
lasting finish, elegant and with style. 7 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
92 2019 »Alte Reben« Thörnich Ritsch<br />
Riesling Spätlese<br />
Fresh nose marked by citrus notes, then light hints of tobacco<br />
and herbs. On the palate, an elegant sweetness with fresh<br />
90 2019 «Blauschiefer« Riesling<br />
Kabinett feinherb<br />
Bright greenish light reflections in the glass with a fragrance<br />
of fine stone fruit, peach and apricot with white floral<br />
scents and lime zest. On the palate slenderly built with<br />
pleasant creamy acidity and clear fruit, fragrant fresh finish.<br />
A good food wine. 11 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
253
MAXIMIN GRÜNHAUS<br />
WEINGUT DER FAMILIE VON SCHUBERT<br />
Maximin Grünhaus 1, 54318 Mertesdorf<br />
T: +49 (651) 5111, info@maximingruenhaus.de<br />
www.maximingruenhaus.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Stefan Kraml<br />
Contact: Maximin von Schubert<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 150,000 (96 % white, 4 % red)/34 ha<br />
Who would have thought, even just a<br />
few short years ago, that a Weissburgunder<br />
from Weingut Maximin<br />
Grünhaus could make us swoon? But this<br />
is just what happened this year as we tasted<br />
this uncommonly fine Pinot Blanc, made with<br />
such finely felt intuition that slate elegance<br />
was guided into Burgundian generosity. But<br />
Maximin von Schubert, now at the helm of<br />
this ancient, family-run estate, is also as<br />
sure-footed in the core skill of this estate –<br />
which is of course Riesling. All the dry wines<br />
convinced us; the residually sweet ones enthused<br />
us.<br />
92 2019 Maximin Grünhaus Abtsberg<br />
Riesling GG<br />
Still closed on the nose, spicy-slate notes, herbal notes, dried<br />
lemon peel with balsamic overtones. Supple onset, quite<br />
broad, a delicate layer of phenolics, ripe acidity but still<br />
seems reserved. Good prospects for spicy development.<br />
12 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
label. Flint, fully ripe pineapple and citrus fruits on the nose,<br />
then the full impact on the palate comes with exotic fruit<br />
and viscosity. More like a Spätlese. 7,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2019 »Alte Reben« Maximin Grünhaus<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
92 2018 »Réserve« Maximin Grünhaus<br />
Pinot Blanc trocken<br />
A fine, floral varietal scent, some yeast and a hint of wood,<br />
followed by nutty notes, some citrus and herbal aromas.<br />
Roundly flowing on the palate, delicate phenolics, fineboned,<br />
very cultivated acidity, a tactile mineral oscillation on<br />
the finish. Pure delicacy. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
95 2019 Maximin Grünhaus Herrenberg<br />
Riesling Auslese<br />
Grandiose aromas of honeydew melon, ripe peach and mirabelle<br />
plum. Almost free of botrytis and in no way plump. Subtle<br />
acidity, seemingly endless finish. A wine with ageing potential<br />
for several decades, almost a work of art. 7,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2019 Maximin Grünhaus Abtsberg<br />
Riesling Kabinett<br />
An unusually strong colour with pale golden yellow hues, already<br />
indicates that there is more here than is written on the<br />
90 2019 »Monopol« Maximin Grünhaus<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Fresh and mineral on the nose, herbaceous notes with<br />
hints of lime. Smooth onset, good juiciness, lively sweetness-acidity<br />
interplay, both quite intense, but still with inner<br />
harmony. Terpenic finish and full-bodied. Considering<br />
the label "trocken" (dry), a rather mild Riesling.<br />
12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
254 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Mosel | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT MARKUS MOLITOR<br />
Haus Klosterberg, 54470 Bernkastel-Wehlen<br />
T: +49 (6532) 954000, info@markusmolitor.com<br />
www.markusmolitor.com<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 10–17 hrs and<br />
by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Markus Molitor<br />
Contact: Markus Molitor<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 450,000 (97 % white, 3 % red)/120 ha<br />
Just one glimpse of the 2019 vintage shows<br />
clearly that yet another gigantic vintage<br />
slumbers in the cellars of Haus Klosterberg.<br />
Fine acidity and precisely delineated site<br />
character run like a red thread through the entire<br />
range. As always with Molitor’s wines, just<br />
a breath of Fuder and an aura of craftmanship<br />
hover above the glass which somehow always<br />
remain just out of reach and yet (or just because)<br />
lend something decidedly untainted and<br />
pure to these wines. Some of the 2019 top wines<br />
were not yet released at the time of our tasting –<br />
but excitement is guaranteed.<br />
94 2019 Kinheim Rosenberg Riesling Auslese<br />
*** Weisse Kapsel<br />
Floral, rosehip, orange blossom and slate notes with additional<br />
balsamic scents becoming more evident in the glass.<br />
On the palate powerful, supple, light wood influence, creamy<br />
phenolics, concentrated acidity, rich and ripe in all components.<br />
Combines tension and volume. 12 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
94 2019 Bernkastel Lay Riesling Auslese **<br />
Weisse Kapsel<br />
Complex in aroma and complete, balsamic, herbaceous,<br />
slate, incense, floral and citrus scents. Broad on the palate,<br />
delicate phenolics and a penetrating tactile minerality put<br />
the palate under high tension with pithy acidity. Lively sweet<br />
counterbalance. 12 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
94 2019 Bernkastel Badstube<br />
Riesling Auslese *** Grüne Kapsel<br />
Complex and dense fruity scents, cassata, cherry and ripe exotic<br />
fruit. On the palate supple, almost viscous, broad, concentrated,<br />
quite round with a vivid sweetness. The full-bodied<br />
style of Bernkastel ends as smoothly as it begins.<br />
12 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
94 2019 Wehlen Sonnenuhr<br />
Riesling Spätlese Goldene Kapsel<br />
Spicy slate scents, flint, stone focused aromas. Lively, almost<br />
lush sweetness on the onset, taut acidity, great interplay<br />
on the midpalate, rounded on the finish with a subtle<br />
mineral trace. Very delicate, fine. 7,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
93 2019 Wehlen Klosterberg<br />
Riesling Spätlese Grüne Kapsel<br />
93 2019 Graach Domprobst<br />
Riesling Auslese ** Weisse Kapsel<br />
92 2019 »Alte Reben Mosel«<br />
Riesling Weisse Kapsel<br />
92 2019 Saarburg Rausch<br />
Riesling Spätlese Weisse Kapsel<br />
91 2019 Zeltingen Himmelreich<br />
Riesling Kabinett Grüne Kapsel<br />
93 2019 Ürzig Würzgarten<br />
Riesling Auslese ** Goldene Kapsel<br />
92 2019 Kinheim Hubertuslay<br />
Riesling Auslese *** Goldene Kapsel<br />
91 2019 Erden Treppchen Riesling<br />
Kabinett Weisse Kapsel<br />
Lemon balm and balsamic-slate notes, smoky tones, fresh<br />
lemon zest and a hint of beeswax. On the palate juicy, lean,<br />
ripe acidity, delicate sweetness, subtle minerality. An elegant<br />
Kabinett par excellence. 11 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
255
WEINGUT NIK WEIS<br />
ST. URBANS-HOF<br />
Urbanusstrasse 16, 54340 Leiwen<br />
T: +49 (6507) 9377 0, info@nikweis.com<br />
www.nikweis.com<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–12 and<br />
13–17 hrs, Saturdays by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Kai Hausen<br />
Contact: Nik Weis<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 250,000 (100 % white)/42 ha<br />
Sankt Urbans-Hof has one part on the<br />
river Saar, the other on the Mittelmosel.<br />
This lends an extraordinary steadfastness<br />
to this 42-hectare estate – and gives drinkers<br />
the choice between the fruity generosity of,<br />
say a Leiwener Laurentiuslay, and the salty,<br />
tingling nerve of an Ockfener Bockstein. In order<br />
to experience this duality you do not even<br />
need to reach for the most expensive wines –<br />
because even the “Alte Reben” village wine<br />
transmits this wine geography in the most<br />
pleasant fashion. Nik Weis and his team once<br />
again did their very best in 2019.<br />
93 2019 Ockfen Bockstein Riesling GG<br />
Beautiful Riesling scent with apricot, peach, floral notes and<br />
a hint of hot stone. The palate shows good substance and elegance,<br />
the elements are in harmony, ripe acidity, clear fruit<br />
and fine minerality with salty nuances. Shows classic Mosel<br />
at a high level. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2019 Leiwen Laurentiuslay Riesling GG<br />
A spicy nose, finely underpinned by smoke. Well-built on the<br />
palate with intense, clear fruit expression, generous, with<br />
substance and yet also with elegance. Lots of terroir and very<br />
good development prospects. To lay down, still very young.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
94 2019 Ockfen Bockstein<br />
Riesling Beerenauslese<br />
Very fine, ripe botrytis on the nose, candied yellow fruit, sultana,<br />
date and a hint of porcini mushroom. On the palate, viscous<br />
with concentrated acidity and powerful extract and<br />
penetrating sweetness. An emphatically rich Beerenauslese,<br />
lush with great potential. 6,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
94 2019 »Goldkapsel« Ockfen Bockstein<br />
Riesling Auslese<br />
Clear yellow in colour. On the nose ripe fruit with a delicate<br />
mineral thread, sultanas, honey and a hint of dried apricot.<br />
On the palate dense texture, spice, dried fruit with a fine vein<br />
of acidity. Magnificent structure and length, ready for a marathon.<br />
7,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
93 2019 Mehring Layet Riesling GG<br />
91 2019 »Alte Reben« Mehring Riesling tr.<br />
90 2019 »Mosel« Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 »Saar« Riesling<br />
92 2019 Piesport Goldtröpfchen<br />
Riesling Auslese<br />
92 2019 Mehring Layet Riesling Spätlese<br />
91 2019 Ockfen Bockstein Riesling Kabinett<br />
91 2019 »Alte Reben« Wiltingen Riesling<br />
Balsamic nuances followed by red apple, nectarine and<br />
mineral, flinty notes. Rich and round on the palate, the<br />
depth of the old vines is palpable, supple foundation, ripe<br />
acidity, seamlessly melded with the body and a delicate<br />
sweetness. Mineral-tinged finish, elegant!<br />
11,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
256 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEIN+GUT OSTER<br />
Mosel | WINERIES<br />
Bachstrasse 11, 56814 Ediger-Eller<br />
T: +49 (2675) 220, info@weingut-oster.de<br />
www.weingut-oster.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Daniel Oster<br />
Contact: Daniel Oster<br />
Hectares: 5 ha<br />
Those looking for individualistic wines<br />
are in the right place here at Wein+Gut<br />
Oster: Winemaker Daniel Oster has no<br />
trouble leaving a dollop of sweetness in his<br />
wines if he thinks that it might just suit them.<br />
The Weissburgunder “Schnüssbomb’’, matured<br />
in barrique and grown in a bomb crater,<br />
is formidable ‘somm candy’. His Riesling<br />
“Fine” smells just like summer rain and enlivens<br />
the senses. “Old knowledge, young ideas,<br />
traditional ways and innovative approaches<br />
all come together here,” quotes Daniel Oster.<br />
Well done!<br />
90 2018 »Schnüssbomb« Weissburgunder<br />
The aroma is characterised by barrique ageing, toasted aromas,<br />
yellow blossom and ripe apple. Powerfully built on the palate<br />
with good substance and noticeable sweetness and a firm structure.<br />
The ripe acidity provides stability and dynamism. Special<br />
character, sommelier wine. 13,5 Vol.-%. sythetic closure<br />
89 2019 »Paul« Riesling<br />
90 2019 »Fine« Riesling<br />
Delicately spicy nose followed by the defined scent of summer<br />
rain, pebbles with earthy nuances, and fine stone fruit.<br />
Slender and delicately structured on the palate, fine fruit<br />
sweetness and appetising acidity. Animating bittersweet finish,<br />
a finely stimulating Riesling. 12 Vol.-%. sythetic closure<br />
90 2018 Pinot Meunier trocken<br />
Sour cherry and plum on the nose, also notes of mulberry. On<br />
the palate there is clear cherry fruit and also plum with good<br />
freshness and acidity, medium in stature and elegant in expression.<br />
Finely extracted tannin and sensitive use of wood.<br />
Well done! 13 Vol.-%. sythetic closure<br />
90 2019 Eller Pfirsichgarten Riesling Auslese<br />
Smoky, bold nose of burnt sugar and freshly crushed green<br />
leaves. On the palate sweet with citrus freshness but also<br />
salty, a very exciting and animating expression, concluded<br />
with a positive 'feinherb' finish. A wine with style and elegance.<br />
11,5 Vol.-%. sythetic closure<br />
89 2019 »Vereinte Vielfalt Gemischter Satz«<br />
RR/WB/MT<br />
In the “Vereinten Vielfalt”, Riesling, Weissburgunder and<br />
Rivaner combine to form a competent and enjoyable trio.<br />
Spicy and fruity on the nose, slenderly built on the palate<br />
and of a cheerful, subtle nature. Juice, sweetness, texture<br />
and spiciness intermingle well! 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
257
WEINGUT VON OTHEGRAVEN<br />
Weinstrasse 1, 54441 Kanzem<br />
T: +49 (6501) 150042, info@von-othegraven.de<br />
www.von-othegraven.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–17 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 11–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Andreas Barth<br />
Contact: Andreas Barth<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 100,000 (100 % white)/16 ha<br />
Von Othegraven is known for single-site<br />
wines of striking personality. The three<br />
Kabinett wines from the 2019 vintage<br />
which were presented by this long-established estate<br />
this year, are further proof of this. Since tasting<br />
the Wawerner Herrenberg which evoked thoughts<br />
of Mozart for one of our tasters, this made us ponder<br />
on the idea of a fitting musical association for<br />
Altenberg Kabinett? Perhaps the solemn and slightly<br />
wild Beethoven? Or maybe even Bach for the<br />
Wiltinger Kupp? Logical strength dissolved in the<br />
most exalted musicality! Even more relevant: there<br />
is a Vinothek (wine shop) in the park, offering tastings<br />
as well as an event space for up to 60 people.<br />
93 2018 Kanzem Altenberg Riesling GG<br />
Soft yellow with green reflections. On the nose verbena, bay<br />
leaf, sweet lemons, coriander seeds plus a fine spicy, balsamic<br />
slate note. On the palate fine sweetness, body and acidity<br />
in balance, apricot, and dried fruit on the finish.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2019 Wawern Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett<br />
92 2018 Ockfen Bockstein Riesling GG<br />
White gold in colour. On the nose bread crust, a hint of Calvados,<br />
ripe apples, smoky notes and a subtle Champagne scent.<br />
Deep, dense sweetness-acidity on the palate. Animating aftertaste.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2019 Kanzem Altenberg Riesling Kabinett<br />
Medium, clear yellow. Spicy slate nose followed by kindling,<br />
flint, lemon balm and mint. Luscious and fresh simultaneously.<br />
On the palate somewhat phenolic with a peach and<br />
apricot mineral underlay and good harmony. Calm and coherent,<br />
medium length. 8,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
93 2019 »Alte Reben« Kanzem Altenberg<br />
Riesling Spätlese<br />
On the nose citrus, dried fruits, apricot, candied orange, sultana<br />
and spicy slate nuances. On the palate a lot of texture,<br />
fine phenolics, ripe citrus fruit, peach juice, balanced and<br />
spicy, with a certain lightness. Very good potential.<br />
8 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2019 Wiltingen Kupp Riesling Kabinett<br />
Medium, clear yellow. On the nose racy slate spice, flint,<br />
grapefruit, kindling and spices. Fine balance between<br />
sweetness and acidity on the palate, somewhat phenolic,<br />
peach, apricot, densely woven, again lots of spice. Good<br />
length. 8 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
258 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT PAULINSHOF<br />
Mosel | WINERIES<br />
Paulinstrasse 14, 54518 Kesten<br />
T: +49 (6535) 544, info@paulinshof.de<br />
www.paulinshof.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 9–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Oliver Jüngling<br />
Contact: The Jüngling family<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 75,000 (100 % white)/9 ha<br />
Things are still on the up for Paulinshof:<br />
Oliver Jüngling hones the dynamics of<br />
his wines which thrive on the best steep<br />
slate slopes of the Mittelmosel. We do not have<br />
to introduce you to sites like Brauneberger<br />
Juffer-Sonnenuhr, but even the wines from these<br />
less well known sites like Brauneberger Kammer<br />
or Kestener Paulinshofberg come up<br />
trumps: the tiny 380 square meter Kammer,<br />
brings forth a “Grosses Gewächs” that transforms<br />
the ripeness of the grapes into body and<br />
length. Thomas Jefferson on his European travels<br />
in 1788 already tasted and praised these<br />
wines: “first quality, without any comparison.”<br />
92 2019 Brauneberg Juffer-Sonnenuhr<br />
Riesling Spätlese trocken<br />
Spicy and slightly balsamic notes on the nose. Very dense on<br />
the palate, terpenic extract, ripe acidity, all components tightly<br />
interwoven; a powerful yet nuanced wine. The sweet fruit of<br />
the Spätlese Prädikat shows on the finish. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2019 »Grosses Gewächs« Brauneberg<br />
Kammer Riesling trocken<br />
Citrus and yellow fruit aromas with a hint of overripe fruit.<br />
Powerful, full and slightly creamy on the palate, ripe acidity,<br />
restrained sweetness, very discreet despite its power. Incredibly<br />
homogeneous on the very long, slightly raisiny finish.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
94 2019 Brauneberg Juffer Riesling Auslese<br />
Elegant with a slight iodine scent and hint of warm fur, also<br />
white flowers like jasmine and white honey. On the palate this<br />
oceanic impression continues, appetising sweetness and fine<br />
acidity, juicy and at the same time with a plump mouthfeel. A<br />
wonderful length, delicate astringency. 9 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2019 Brauneberg Juffer Riesling Spätlese<br />
Cool fragrant nose, first roses, then white berries and young<br />
apples and a hint of caramelised sugar. On the palate the fine<br />
sweetness pairs perfectly with the crunchy, long lasting<br />
fresh acidity. Immensely juicy mouthfeel with delicious fullness<br />
and freshness. 9,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2019 »Grosses Gewächs« Kesten<br />
Paulinshofberger Riesling trocken<br />
91 2019 »Von der Ley« Riesling Kabinett tr.<br />
90 2019 Brauneberg Juffer<br />
Riesling Kabinett trocken<br />
90 2019 Brauneberg Kammer<br />
Riesling Spätlese feinherb<br />
89 2019 Kesten Paulinshofberger<br />
Riesling feinherb<br />
88 2019 Brauneberg Juffer Riesling Kabinett<br />
91 2019 Kesten Paulinsberg Riesling Spätlese<br />
90 2019 »Vom roten Schiefer« Riesling<br />
Scents of apple and apple sauce, passion fruit, hints of spice<br />
and some slight medicinal notes. On the palate homogeneous<br />
and rich in substance, lively acidity and a fine mineral interplay.<br />
The sweetness remains restrained but contributes<br />
well to harmony and tension. 12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
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259
WEINGUT DR. PAULY-BERGWEILER<br />
Gestade 15, 54470 Bernkastel-Kues<br />
T: +49 (6531) 3002, info@pauly-bergweiler.com<br />
www.pauly-bergweiler.com<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Saturdays 14–18 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Carl Debus<br />
Contact: Stefan Pauly<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 130,000 (99 % white, 1 % red)/16 ha<br />
With a treasure trove of some of the<br />
best sites in Bernkastel and similar<br />
ones along the entire Mittelmosel,<br />
Stefan Pauly can make full use of these resources,<br />
he’s actually spoilt for choice. The dry<br />
wines in the range he sent us really scored with<br />
powerful generosity, the Kabinetts with their<br />
fine savouriness, his Spätlese with concentration<br />
and his Auslesen with their high-wire act<br />
between power and elegance. The fact that the<br />
“Alte Badstube am Doctorberg” stands out<br />
time and again should not surprise us: nature<br />
endowed this site with similar privilege as the<br />
contiguous and legendary Doctor site.<br />
93 2019 »Grosses Gewächs« Bernkastel Alte<br />
Badstube am Doctorberg Riesling trocken<br />
Fresh bouquet with fine honey sweetness, followed by chrysanthemums<br />
and foliage. Full and rich on the palate, one<br />
senses the high potential, very nicely pronounced supporting<br />
acidity. A great food wine! 12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
93 2019 Bernkastel Alte Badstube am<br />
Doctorberg Riesling Auslese Alte Reben<br />
Floral nose of white flowers and fresh hay, mineral, cool and<br />
fragrant with scents of mirabelle plums and rose petals and a<br />
hint of citrus. On the palate a skilful balance between fresh<br />
sweetness and juicy acidity, lightly caramelised sugar and fine<br />
lime zest. Very elegant finish. 8,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
93 2019 Wehlen Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese<br />
Clear, light yellow. On the nose ripe citrus fruits, candied orange,<br />
blossom honey, lime, mint, spice and a slight mineral<br />
tensity. On the palate multi-layered fruit, citrus, apricot,<br />
everything highly ripe but elegantly dancing. Long and dense<br />
with potential. 8 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
92 2019 Bernkastel Alte Badstube am<br />
Doctorberg Riesling Spätlese<br />
Closed on the nose, with slight hints of spicy slate and a<br />
dash of balsamic. On the palate there is powerful extract,<br />
bold and very compact: minerality, acidity and sweetness<br />
are closely integrated. The substantial core has substance<br />
for one or two decades of development.<br />
8,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
91 2019 »Grosses Gewächs« Ürzig Goldwingert<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 Bernkastel Alte Badstube am<br />
Doctorberg Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 Ürzig Würzgarten Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 Wehlen Klosterberg Riesling feinherb<br />
92 2019 Wehlen Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese<br />
90 2019 Bernkastel Badstube<br />
Riesling Spätlese<br />
88 2019 Bernkastel Badstube<br />
Riesling Kabinett<br />
91 2019 Bernkastel Alte Badstube am<br />
Doctorberg Riesling Kabinett<br />
Pear drops, spicy slate notes and candied lemon peel on<br />
the nose. On the palate there is some texture, intense but<br />
also fine acidity and with a sweetness poised by extract.<br />
Good density and a resolution of tension evolving into ethereal<br />
lightness. 10 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
260 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT S. A. PRÜM<br />
Mosel | WINERIES<br />
Uferallee 25–26, 54470 Bernkastel-Wehlen<br />
T: +49 (6531) 3110, info@sapruem.com<br />
www.sapruem.com<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–12 hrs and<br />
13–17 hrs, Saturdays 10–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Saskia A. Prüm<br />
Contact: Saskia A. Prüm<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 100,000 (100 % white)/14 ha<br />
The reconstruction of this well-known<br />
and family-run estate in Wehlen continues<br />
apace and shows gratifying results.<br />
The trio of Grosse Gewächse from the<br />
Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Graacher Domprobst<br />
and Bernkasteler Lay not only depicts a contiguous<br />
band of steep slate sites, but delivers a<br />
faithful picture of what they have in common<br />
and what differentiates them. That there is<br />
something poetically inherent in these wines,<br />
comes across in the attributes our tasters used:<br />
“warm-hearted and joyful”, “charming and<br />
experienced”, “mysterious sweetness”. Please,<br />
do pour another glass!<br />
93 2019 Wehlen Sonnenuhr Riesling GG<br />
White gold in appearance with herbal-spicy scents and ethereal,<br />
fir tree honey nuances. On the palate there is penetrating<br />
acidity, but also viscous fullness followed by expressive<br />
tones of grapefruit jam, wheat fields and hay. This wine is<br />
charming and experienced at the same time. A wine with dimension<br />
and future. Appetising! 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2019 Graach Domprobst Riesling Spätlese<br />
92 2019 Bernkastel Lay Riesling GG<br />
Spring green reflections. On the nose white peach, cardamom,<br />
citrus peel and Calvados. A mouthfeel like heavy silk<br />
with dense sweetness, creamy underlying acidity and a very<br />
animating and dynamic finish. A warm-hearted and cheerful<br />
wine. 12 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2019 Graach Domprobst Riesling GG<br />
Greenish hues. On the nose meadow herbs with subtle floral<br />
notes, rose. On the palate, a composition of delicate silkiness<br />
and mysterious sweetness. Very ripe apples on the finish. The<br />
wine needs a few more years to develop fully.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2019 Bernkastel Lay Riesling Auslese<br />
Soft yellow. On the nose “dark” spicy nuances followed by<br />
mint, verbena, acacia honey, ripe boskoop apples, rhubarb<br />
and medlar fruits. On the palate a very classic Auslese with<br />
clear and expressive character. A multifaceted, precise and<br />
ageable wine. 7,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 Erden Riesling Kabinett feinherb<br />
Green reflections in appearance. Subtle herbal spiciness<br />
on the nose with slight hints of stone fruit and a citrusy<br />
note. Playfully balanced on the palate, the fine acidity carries<br />
the sweetness but remains so understated and not isolated<br />
thus gently giving resonance to the fruit.<br />
10,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
261
REBENHOF, JOHANNES SCHMITZ<br />
Hüwel 2–3, 54539 Ürzig<br />
T: +49 (6532) 4546, info@rebenhof.de<br />
www.rebenhof-schmitz.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Saturdays 10–18 hrs,<br />
Sundays 10–12 hrs and by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Johannes Schmitz<br />
Contact: Johannes Schmitz<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 50,000 (100 % white)/6 ha<br />
Johannes Schmitz could be seen as a kind<br />
of head gardener in the Ürziger Würzgarten<br />
site – together with his team, he cultivates<br />
a remarkable six hectares of this impressive<br />
steep site. His house style lets fruit take<br />
centre stage but also leaves room for the minerality<br />
of this unique vineyard with its red<br />
soils. In his 2019 offering, it is the two fruity<br />
Spätlesen that take the top spots: the “Urglück”<br />
which hails from a sheltered parcel and<br />
shows both density and playfulness, while the<br />
“Grand Ley” closer to the large slate rock<br />
turns out to be more profound and powerful.<br />
91 2019 Erden Treppchen Riesling<br />
Spätlese trocken<br />
Clear, full-bodied, firm and yet flowing. Finely spicy with light<br />
fruit, red apple, herbs and stone nuances. Juicy, fine phenolics<br />
and a mineral grip, continual flow and with fine spiciness<br />
on the finish. 12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
sweetness that is not overly rich and good citric acidity.<br />
Beautiful balance! 7,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 Ürzig Würzgarten Riesling<br />
Spätlese feinherb<br />
90 2019 »Von Wurzelechten Reben« Ürzig<br />
Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett trocken<br />
Yellow-green fruit, fine herbal spice and minerality. On the<br />
palate juicy fruit and an interwoven texture, with citrus, zesty<br />
freshness, pear, light floral blossoms and tart herbs. Animating<br />
acidity. 11,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
93 2019 »Grand Ley« Ürzig Würzgarten<br />
Riesling Spätlese<br />
Herbal, spicy, deep with dark mineral nuances, apple, yellow<br />
fruit and hints of blossom. Concentrated and yet delicate on<br />
the palate. Peach, tart hints, citrus zest and mineral spiciness.<br />
Beautiful interplay between sweet fruit and fine acidity.<br />
8,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
92 2019 »Urglück« Ürzig Würzgarten<br />
Riesling Spätlese<br />
Good volume on the nose, a stony spiciness, also apricot, dark<br />
yellow fruit and a very subtle etherealness. Focused on the<br />
palate with fresh fruit, notes of orange, with fitting Spätlese<br />
90 2019 »Vom Roten Schiefer« Ürzig<br />
Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett feinherb<br />
Red apple, herbs and spicy slate minerality with added<br />
stone dust nuances on the nose. On the palate juicy with<br />
tart hints, subtle sweetness and a fresh, citric acid structure.<br />
A racy Kabinett with a fine herbal finish.<br />
10,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
262 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT F. J. REGNERY<br />
Mosel | WINERIES<br />
Mittelstrasse 39, 54340 Klüsserath<br />
T: +49 (6507) 4636, mail@weingut-regnery.de<br />
www.weingut-regnery.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays by appointment,<br />
Saturdays 10–18 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Peter Regnery<br />
Contact: Peter Regnery<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 50,000 (70 % white, 30 % red)/9 ha<br />
Even if Peter Regnery is seen as a Spätburgunder<br />
specialist in the Mosel with<br />
30% of his vineyards planted to this variety,<br />
it was the Riesling that drew us in this<br />
time: his dry Auslese from the Klüsserather<br />
Bruderschaft has just 11.5% ABV and yet is<br />
intense and finely mineral. His “Grosses<br />
Gewächs” from the 2018 vintage comes close<br />
to the Auslese and its counterpart from the<br />
2008 vintage comes across as beautifully<br />
evolved and aristocratic. Wonderful! Again,<br />
the Spätburgunders also turned out well. And<br />
note: his Vinothek (wine shop) is amongst the<br />
most architecturally striking.<br />
93 2019 »Alte Reben« Klüsserath<br />
Bruderschaft Riesling Auslese trocken<br />
The nose shows intense minerality and the nobility of almost<br />
100-year-old vines with fine pineapple scents. On the palate,<br />
calm intensity with fine fruit and mineral timbre, a little iodine,<br />
yet slender in texture and finely chiselled acidity. Magnificent!<br />
11,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2018 »Grosses Gewächs« Klüsserath<br />
Bruderschaft Riesling trocken<br />
Powerful aroma of spontaneous fermentation, herbs, apple<br />
peel, caraway, red apple and also yellow fruit. Well-judged<br />
substance in a strong structure, ripe acidity and fine sweetness<br />
intermingle with hints of white pepper. Mineral and<br />
spicy slate undertones, young. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2008 »Grosses Gewächs« Klüsserath<br />
Bruderschaft Riesling<br />
Ripe aroma of sultanas, dried apricot, petrol, tea, hay and<br />
herbs. Fine and velvety on the palate, still lively with finely<br />
chiselled acidity, well matured, lean and velvety, underpinned<br />
by slate spice and apricot notes.Seems aristocratic in<br />
its fine flow. 12 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2015 »Reserve« Klüsserath Bruderschaft<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Powerful nose with toasted aromas, ripe cherry, blood orange,<br />
pipe tobacco, cassis and wet forest floor. On the palate<br />
there is good concentration and present acidity, medium-bodied<br />
structure and ripe tannins. Interpreted rather<br />
lean for 2015, nevertheless with substance.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2017 Klüsserath Bruderschaft<br />
Spätburgunder matured in barrique trocken<br />
91 2019 »Edition Michelskirch« Klüsserath<br />
Bruderschaft Riesling Spätlese feinherb<br />
Spicy nose with notes of ripe yellow fruit, spicy slate notes,<br />
herbal hints from a warm vineyard, peach and also passion<br />
fruit. The fine tart sweetness is well integrated in the lean<br />
body with fresh acidity and spicy slate nuances. Juicy with<br />
depth. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
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263
REIS – FEINE WEINE!<br />
Hauptstrasse 225, 56867 Briedel<br />
T: +49 (6542) 41188, info@reisfeineweine.de<br />
www.reisfeineweine.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Achim Reis<br />
Contact: Achim Reis<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 60,000 (95 % white, 5 % red)/8 ha<br />
Each year, this Riesling “Furztrocken!”<br />
(this translates into ‘as dry as a fart’) attracts<br />
attention – and that is not solely<br />
down to its bold and memorable name. Once<br />
again in 2019 it shows verve and phenolic grip<br />
and has long since become a trademark for<br />
Achim Reis. His 2017 Riesling from the Winninger<br />
Uhlen site shines – beautifully evolved<br />
and a fitting contrast with its concentration<br />
and depth. Last but not least, the exquisite<br />
TBA from the Würzgarten proves that Achim<br />
Reis can do Riesling in all its facets. Great performance!<br />
91 2017 Winningen Uhlen Riesling trocken<br />
Deep yellow in the glass, ripe apricot in the concentrated aroma,<br />
also tangerine and some guava. With good concentration<br />
on the palate, slightly viscous with a fine, ripe acidity with the<br />
recurrence of ripe fruit and a dash of petrol. Minerality, elegance<br />
and with depth. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2016 »Noir Nat« trocken<br />
90 2018 Bremm Calmont Riesling<br />
Strong yellow in the glass, concentrated on the nose, apple<br />
and caramelised apricot, blossom honey and warm stone<br />
notes. Supple on the palate, juicy and textural, again some<br />
hints of honey, precise acidity on a rather soft base with a<br />
pleasant spicy minerality. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
96 2018 Ürzig Würzgarten Riesling<br />
Trockenbeerenauslese<br />
Sultana, apple, dried apple, mint and some slight hints of<br />
botrytis. On the palate highly concentrated, intense fruit<br />
sweetness, crunchy acidity, great tension, mineral character.<br />
Very good balance and also length, substantial wine with finesse.<br />
7,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2017 »Von Alten Reben« Riesling<br />
Flows wonderfully oily with a sunny yellow colour into the<br />
glass, delicate ripe notes on the nose with cool herbal notes,<br />
stone fruit, dark honey, beetroot and ripe quince. Delicious<br />
freshness on the palate with lively sweetness. Incredibly<br />
drinkable. 8 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2019 »Furztrocken!« Ürzig Würzgarten<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Rich scents of wild honey, ripe apricot, hints of biscuit and<br />
minerality. Taut and powerfully structured on the palate<br />
with accentuated dryness, fresh and with verve, gripping<br />
with straightforward acidity. Phenolic tartness, unembellished<br />
and with a mineral foundation. 13 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
264 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT REVERCHON<br />
Mosel | WINERIES<br />
Saartalstrasse 2–3, 54329 Konz<br />
T: +49 (6501) 923500, kontakt@weingut-reverchon.de<br />
www.weingut-reverchon.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8.30–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Ralph Herke<br />
Contact: Hans Maret<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 105,000 (94 % white, 6 % red)/19 ha<br />
As one of the great, longstanding estates<br />
of the Saar, we have a responsibility to<br />
preserve this cultural landscape with its<br />
steep sites and do it justice by farming in tune<br />
with nature – measures like soft pruning and eschewing<br />
herbicides, pesticides and insecticides<br />
are key to this,” the estate reports. We, however,<br />
can simply report another gratifyingly complete<br />
range – this estate also knows how to handle<br />
Spätburgunder. The Rieslings, meanwhile,<br />
are convincing, from the entry-level litre-bottle<br />
all the way to the single-site wines from the Filzener<br />
Herrenberg, the home vineyard of the estate,<br />
and the famous Ockfener Bockstein.<br />
90 2018 Ockfen Bockstein Riesling Kabinett tr.<br />
Bergamot, orange marmalade, also floral and mineral-stony<br />
tones. Silky flow on the palate, subtle sweetness, vivid but<br />
not harsh acidity, lightness with expression and some carbon<br />
dioxide. Beautiful elegance in a very restrained style.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2018 Filzen Herrenberg Spätburgunder tr.<br />
Blood orange and violets show on the nose with ripe cherry,<br />
beetroot and a whiff of smoke. Soft on the palate, the lively<br />
acidity provides momentum, good quality fine tannins, still<br />
slightly furry. Sour cherry and fine tartness on the finish, stylish.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
93 2019 Ockfen Bockstein Riesling Auslese<br />
Fresh apple compote, brown sugar, sultana and damp stone<br />
notes. On the palate there is a fine delicacy, silky sweetness<br />
interwoven with minerality, yet neither extremely viscous<br />
nor really an isolated “sweetness”. A taut, “cool” Auslese with<br />
a lightness typical of the Saar. 7,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2019 Filzen Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese<br />
A piquant slate spiciness on the nose, citrus, bergamot, vine<br />
peach. Supple on the palate, delicate sweetness, mediumweight<br />
in texture and extract, more in the light Saar style. A<br />
good mineral profile and nice interplay. 8 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2019 Ockfen Bockstein Riesling<br />
Kabinett feinherb<br />
89 2018 Ockfen Bockstein Riesling<br />
Kabinett feinherb<br />
89 2019 »Mineral« Riesling feinherb<br />
88 Riesling brut<br />
88 2019 »Liter« Riesling trocken<br />
88 2019 Weissburgunder trocken<br />
88 2019 Chardonnay trocken<br />
89 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
Some peach, orange, tangerine aromas. Not loud. On the palate<br />
there is a silky approach, slight sweetness, juicy acidity<br />
and a subtle mineral interplay. A slender wine with zing that<br />
shows its origin in a very typical way. 11 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
265
WEINGUT RÖMERHOF<br />
Burgstrasse 2, 54340 Riol<br />
T: +49 (6502) 2189, mail@weingut-roemerhof.de<br />
www.weingut-roemerhof.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Franz-Peter and Daniel Schmitz<br />
Contact: Franz-Peter and Daniel Schmitz<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 65,000 (80 % white, 20 % red)/11 ha<br />
A<br />
few things are new at the Römerhof in<br />
Riol: for one thing, there is a new wine<br />
shop that joins architecture and the<br />
pleasure of wine into a ravishingly sensuous<br />
experience. Then there is a new grape variety<br />
in the wine range: for the first time there is a<br />
Sauvignon Blanc on offer. The wine from this<br />
virgin vintage turned out so well that we immediately<br />
turned it into our Falstaff-Tip. Last<br />
but certainly not least, we can report that 2019<br />
also delivered ripe, full-flavoured Riesling<br />
grapes – ideal raw material for a thoroughbred<br />
like the dry Auslese or the brilliant Beerenauslese.<br />
92 2019 »Constantin« Mehringen Zellerberg<br />
Riesling Auslese trocken<br />
Ripe yellow fruit, apricot, peach, mango and some wood<br />
scents. A luscious selection of fruit. Poised on the palate,<br />
ample volume with good extract, some phenolics, but also<br />
juiciness supported by ripe and firm acidity. A thoroughbred<br />
Riesling with the best perspectives. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2019 Longuich Maximiner Herrenberg<br />
Riesling Auslese<br />
At first closed, then a smoky and cool nose, followed by white<br />
flowers and warm fur notes. On the palate a pleasant freshness<br />
with notes of dill and plump acidity. A lovely taste of<br />
lightly caramelised sugar forms the long finish.<br />
8,5 Vol.-%. DIAM, €€<br />
89 2019 »vom grauen Tonschiefer« Mehringen<br />
Zellerberg Riesling Spätlese feinherb<br />
92 2019 »131°« Mehringen Zellerberg<br />
Riesling Beerenauslese<br />
Light stone fruit on the nose, also mint, herbs, leafy greens, lemon<br />
balm and citrusy notes; already playful on the nose. Good<br />
freshness on the palate with great sweetness-acidity interplay,<br />
complexity and concentration, juicy and animating in good balance.<br />
A fresh citrus fruit note on the finish. 7,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2019 »Alte Reben« Mehringen Zellerberg<br />
Riesling Spätlese<br />
Peach and mango, plump, ripe but very clear fruit scents. On<br />
the palate, a dense Spätlese body with good structure,<br />
poised, compact and juicy with a lively acidic nerve that refreshes<br />
the fruit. The depth of the old vines is well depicted.<br />
13 Vol.-%. DIAM, €€<br />
90 2019 Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Peppery and spicy slate nuances on the nose, almost more<br />
slate than Sauvignon Blanc! Full-bodied on the palate,<br />
slightly salty, good body, ripe, fresh acidity, only subtly<br />
sweet with smooth foundations. A good food wine.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
266 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Mosel | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT SCHLOSS SAARSTEIN<br />
54455 Serrig<br />
T: +49 (6581) 2324, weingut@saarstein.de<br />
www.saarstein.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Christian Ebert<br />
Contact: Christian Ebert<br />
Hectares: 10 ha<br />
Schloss Saarstein sits high above the Saar<br />
river, surrounded by its vineyards. Its<br />
south-southwest aspect guarantees perfect<br />
solar radiation. The grey slate warms easily<br />
and retains the heat of the day. It is thus an<br />
ideal soil for Riesling that makes up more than<br />
90% of the estate’s plantings. Christian Ebert,<br />
who is the second generation to run the estate,<br />
presented a convincing wine range of elegant,<br />
fine-boned and minerally-savoury Rieslings –<br />
along with noble sweet rarities and a well-balanced<br />
“Grosses Gewächs”. Classically good!<br />
91 2018 Serrig Schloss Saarsteiner<br />
Riesling GG<br />
Ripe Riesling nose with stone fruit, especially peach and<br />
mango plus herbs and spicy slate scents. Powerful and compact<br />
on the palate there is ripe fruit and well-integrated residual<br />
sweetness, plus mature acidity and a mineral, slatespicy<br />
base. Classic and beautiful. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2019 Serrig Schloss Saarsteiner<br />
Riesling Beerenauslese<br />
Stony coolness on the nose, light yellow fruit, also mint and<br />
stone dust, seems to exhibit defined scents. On the palate<br />
there is good concentration and fine juice, precise fruit, beautifully<br />
classic with a lively acid structure and citric freshness.<br />
The wine has good traction with a slightly salty finish. Playful!<br />
6,5 Vol.-%. cork<br />
92 2019 Serrig Schloss Saarsteiner<br />
Riesling Auslese<br />
Delicately bright with greenish reflections in the glass. A fine<br />
herbal nose of fragrant white flowers with a smoky hint. On<br />
the palate a tangy acidity with wonderfully well-balanced<br />
and integrated sweetness. A really refreshing wine!<br />
7 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2019 Serrig Schloss Saarsteiner<br />
Riesling Kabinett<br />
A very delicately pale and also rather closed wine, but it really<br />
thaws on the palate. It offers delicious freshness with tingling<br />
acidity, a finely balanced sweetness and fine peach<br />
notes which are noticeable on the juicy finish.<br />
7,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 Riesling Kabinett feinherb<br />
88 2019 Saarstein Riesling trocken<br />
88 2019 Pinot Blanc trocken<br />
90 2019 »Grauschiefer« Riesling trocken<br />
Lots of vineyard and Saar countryside scents on the nose,<br />
followed by herbs, yellow fruit, apple and slate accents. On<br />
the palate it is juicy and spicy with slate spice nuances accompanied<br />
by fruity notes with good balance. Shows terroir<br />
and origin in a slender format. 11,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
267
WEINGUT VON SCHLEINITZ<br />
Kirchstrasse 15–17, 56330 Kobern-Gondorf<br />
T: +49 (2607) 972020, info@vonschleinitz.de<br />
www.vonschleinitz.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Martin Gerlach<br />
Contact: Martin Gerlach<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 130,000 (80 % white, 20 % red)/22 ha<br />
This Weingut, resulting from the merging<br />
in 2018 of two estates, “Gerlachs<br />
Mühle’’ and “von Schleinitz” presented<br />
the second vintage of this new venture. We like<br />
how finely chiselled the fruit is – this goes particularly<br />
for the Rieslings which really show<br />
the variety’s aromatic potential with great precision<br />
– and in the case of the single-site wine<br />
from the Uhlen, this is augmented by mineral<br />
savouriness. On the palate, these wines show<br />
the sort of lovely silkiness that simply make<br />
the distinction between “trocken” (dry) and<br />
“halbtrocken” (medium dry) redundant. Absolutely<br />
compelling!<br />
91 2019 Kobern Uhlen Riesling<br />
Balsamic notes, more lime than slate? Ripe but not overripe<br />
candied yellow fruit, apricot and pineapple. Finely textured<br />
on the palate, silky and supple, round flowing sweetness<br />
seamlessly connected to the ripe acidity. Offers substance<br />
and texture. 12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
88 2019 Weissburgunder<br />
89 2019 »Apollo« Riesling<br />
Fresh and citrusy on the nose, also some herbs and a hint of<br />
apricot, even sultana. Poised and broad on the palate, silky<br />
phenolics, vivid sweetness, mild acidity and a slight botrytis<br />
creaminess concluded with slate peppery notes.<br />
12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 Grauburgunder<br />
Chestnut puree, wild berries, Pinot berries and yeasty scents.<br />
Sweet onset of ripe acidity, full-bodied and round with good<br />
substance on the midpalate and in the transition to the finish.<br />
Quite a full-bodied varietal expression with lively sweetness<br />
on the palate. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 Spätburgunder Rosé trocken<br />
Salmon pink with orange reflections. On the nose apple peel<br />
tea, strawberry and a hint of peppery aromas. Strong body,<br />
some sweetness, ripe acidity with a hint of tannins. Medium<br />
intensity and length of the Pinot-typical fruit, plus a mineral<br />
undertone. 11,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 »Nitor« Riesling trocken<br />
Beautiful clarity on the nose, vine peach and floral undertones.<br />
Silky on the palate with delicate sweetness, rather<br />
restrained acidity, smooth, almost creamy background and<br />
a discreet slate-toned finish. A very round, finely composed<br />
Riesling. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
268 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Mosel | WINERIES<br />
<br />
STUDERT-PRÜM-MAXIMINHOF<br />
Uferallee 22, 54470 Bernkastel-Wehlen<br />
T: +49 (6531) 2487, info@studert-pruem.com<br />
www.studert-pruem.com<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Michael Studert<br />
Contact: Michael Studert<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 20,000 (100 % white)/3 ha<br />
If Weingut Studert-Prüm were located in<br />
Bordeaux, it might well be referred to as a<br />
‘garagiste’ or ‘micro-château’ and enjoy<br />
some sort of cult status. In the Mosel region,<br />
however, things are a little more staid – this,<br />
however, does not alter the fact that Michael<br />
Studert simply makes excellent Riesling from<br />
his three hectares of vines. His family – of<br />
which he is the 14th generation – can trace its<br />
winemaking tradition back to 1581. Across his<br />
site portfolio of Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Graacher<br />
Himmelreich, Bernkasteler Graben and Wehlener<br />
Nonnenberg he has crafted a most balanced<br />
range of wines, from dry to noble sweet.<br />
90 2019 Wehlen Sonnenuhr<br />
Riesling Kabinett trocken<br />
Medium, clear yellow. On the nose fine spiciness, slate, beautiful<br />
minerality, very spicy followed by zesty citrus fruit. Invigorating<br />
on the palate, spice, mineral, citrus freshness,<br />
very balanced, elegant structure. An ideal typical dry Kabinett.<br />
11,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
On the palate a lot of tension and texture, spicy with forest<br />
floor, honey and dried apricot nuances, densely integrated<br />
with lot of potential. Ample power but also elegant.<br />
8 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2019 Wehlen Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese<br />
90 2019 Wehlen Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett<br />
Medium, clear yellow. On the nose fine spiciness, apricot,<br />
some pineapple, ripe citrus fruit, grapefruit. On the palate<br />
good balance between acidity and fruit sweetness, phenolics,<br />
apricot and peach. A harmonious, calm, elegant structured<br />
wine. 9 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
94 2017 Wehlen Sonnenuhr Riesling<br />
Trockenbeerenauslese<br />
Clear, rich yellow. Concentrated spice, hot stone, sultanas, fir<br />
tree honey, candied orange and apricot on the nose. Texture<br />
and fine acidity on the palate, dense, powerful, but also remaining<br />
fresh. Good structure and length, potential.<br />
6 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
94 2019 Graach Himmelreich<br />
Riesling Auslese ***<br />
Rich, clear yellow. On the nose dried fruits, lots of sultana, fir<br />
tree honey, lemon balm and mint, underlaid with minerality.<br />
90 2018 »Maximiner Cabinet« Sekt trocken<br />
Clear, medium yellow. On the nose brioche, apple peel,<br />
pear, some mineral underlay and slate notes. Fine mousse,<br />
gripping acidity, spice, apple, harmonious sweetness, nuances<br />
of nutmeg; very gastronomic, good structure, individual<br />
throughout. If sparkling wine is made in a sweet<br />
style, then this is a fine exemplar. 12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
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269
WEINGUT WWE. DR. H. THANISCH<br />
ERBEN MÜLLER-BURGGRAEF<br />
Junkerland 14, 54470 Bernkastel-Kues / Andel<br />
T: +49 (6531) 9179010, office@dr-thanisch.de<br />
www.dr-thanisch.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Maximilian Ferger, Edgar Schneider<br />
Contact: Maximilian Ferger<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 90,000 (95 % white, 5 % red)/16 ha<br />
It is hardly possible to be more historic<br />
than this estate. An almost 400-year-old<br />
family tradition connects Weingut Wwe.<br />
Dr. Thanisch – Erben Müller-Burggraef to the<br />
history of Bernkastel’s most famous vineyard:<br />
the Doctor. When an ailing prince recovered<br />
his health after enjoying wine from this site in<br />
the 14th century, it was named Doctor. To this<br />
day, this steep site is amongst the best in the<br />
Mosel. Cellar master Maximilian Ferger exploits<br />
this potential and makes juicy, tension-laden<br />
Rieslings that unite elegance and<br />
power – and the best, of course, hail straight<br />
from – the Doctor.<br />
93 2018 »GG« Berncastel Doctor Riesling tr.<br />
Medium, clear yellow. On the nose mineral spiciness, crushed<br />
rock, papaya and lime zest. Densely and complexly integrated<br />
on the palate, fine phenolics, citrus tones, tension, tense<br />
minerality, good structure and length. Still very young, lots<br />
of potential. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2018 »GG« Bernkastel Lay Riesling trocken<br />
Deep, clear yellow. Still rather restrained nose, deep citrus<br />
fruit, spicy rock nuances and herbs emerge becoming denser<br />
with aeration. On the palate dense, compact, fine acidity,<br />
tense minerality and ripe citrus fruit notes. Good structure<br />
and length. Lots of potential. Noble. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2017 Lieser Niederberg Helden<br />
Pinot Noir trocken<br />
Bright red with clear brownish reflections, evolved. On the<br />
nose a refined evolution of undergrowth notes, rose petals,<br />
sloe and sweet cherry. On the palate fine textured tannins,<br />
tobacco leaf, refined acidity, has tension and elegance. Good<br />
structure and length, very unique, great food wine.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2019 Berncastel Doctor Riesling Kabinett<br />
Clear, medium yellow. On the nose fine spicy slate notes,<br />
some smoke, lemon balm, ripe citrus fruit and pink grapefruit.<br />
Texture on the palate with noticeable sweetness, fine<br />
phenolics, lots of power and real stature. Anything but a light<br />
Kabinett, potential! 9 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2019 Bernkastel Graben Riesling Spätlese<br />
92 2018 Berncastel Doctor Riesling Spätlese<br />
91 2019 »Alte Reben« Bernkastel Lay<br />
Riesling Spätlese feinherb<br />
90 2019 Bernkastel Badstube Riesling<br />
Kabinett trocken<br />
89 2019 Bernkastel Riesling Kabinett trocken<br />
89 2019 Bernkastel Riesling Kabinett feinherb<br />
88 2019 Riesling<br />
92 2019 Bernkastel Badstube<br />
Riesling Kabinett<br />
Clear, medium yellow. On the palate, animating scents of<br />
peach, apricot, lemon juice and spicy rock nuances. On the palate<br />
lots of texture, fine phenolics, harmonious acidity, peach<br />
juice, lime peel and a mineral thread. An elegant balanced wine<br />
with a good structure and length. 8,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
270 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Mosel | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT MICHAEL TROSSEN<br />
Jesuitenhofstrasse 42, 54536 Kröv<br />
T: +49 (6541) 812005, mt@das-weingut.com<br />
www.das-weingut.com<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Michael Trossen<br />
Contact: Michael Trossen<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 35,000 (91 % white, 9 % red)/4 ha<br />
Absolutely solid craftmanship is what<br />
we tasted in the wines Michael Trossen<br />
presented: the slate savouriness is<br />
pronounced and chiselled, the wines have expressive<br />
aromas and maintain that balance between<br />
density and typical Mosel liveliness on<br />
the palate. The 2019 vintage will be memorable<br />
for Michael Trossen since he even made a<br />
Trockenbeerenauslese. He also reports that<br />
due to sufficient water availability during the<br />
main ripening phase, the minerality of these<br />
wines was more pronounced than ever. With<br />
that amount of backbone these wines have a<br />
great and long life ahead of them!<br />
91 2019 »Bergblüter« Kröv Letterlay Riesling<br />
Spätlese trocken<br />
Blood orange and vine peach, smoky notes and a hint of rose<br />
petal. On the palate, creamy and bold onset, lively sweetness,<br />
then acidity slowly gaining in piquancy, substantial and<br />
tactile-minerality on the finish. Lots of extract, embedded in<br />
a powerful body. 14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
93 2019 »Bergblüter« Kröv Letterlay<br />
Riesling Auslese<br />
Very fine scents of botrytis, a spectrum from citrus to yellow<br />
fruit to sultana. On the palate there is juicy acidity and discreet<br />
viscous sweetness, a great arc of tension. Mineral underpinning<br />
and homogeneously accompanied by fruit. Potential<br />
for 20 years+. 8 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 Riesling feinherb<br />
90 2019 Kröv Kirchlay Riesling Kabinett tr.<br />
Fresh citrus on the nose, with some yeast and slate notes,<br />
with air contact also yellow-fruits with hints of mirabelle<br />
plums. A very clear, bundled aroma. On the palate comparatively<br />
rich for a Kabinett, ripe acidity, smooth background, restrained<br />
sweetness. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2019 Kröv Kirchlay Riesling Kabinett<br />
Fresh citrus and lavender scents and slate mineral savouriness.<br />
On the palate there is a lot of juice, a soft base, the<br />
sweetness-acidity-span is taut. The wine has rather a round,<br />
compact and at the same time Kabinett-fresh impression.<br />
Good potential. 9,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2019 »Bergblüter« Kröv Letterlay<br />
Riesling Spätlese feinherb<br />
Mineral on the nose, balsamic, but also intense yellow-fruits.<br />
Typically opulent Spätlese scents of mirabelle plums, yellow<br />
fleshed peach and passion fruit. On the palate there is<br />
some volume, fruit-borne sweetness, cultivated acidity and<br />
a delicate mineral hue. 13,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
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271
WEINGUT DANIEL TWARDOWSKI<br />
Folzerweg 20, 54347 Neumagen-Dhron<br />
T: +49 (160) 97766714, info@pinot-noix.com<br />
www.pinot-noix.com<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Daniel Twardowski<br />
Contact: Daniel Twardowski<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 5,000 (100 % red)/3 ha<br />
The vines are still young – the oldest<br />
planting dates to 2006. Yet the yield<br />
from these relatively new vineyards already<br />
delivers depth: Daniel Twardowski is a<br />
shooting star when it comes to Pinot Noir winemakers<br />
on the Mosel. He even declared his<br />
vineyards in the Dhroner Hofberg as a completely<br />
Riesling-free zone and only grows<br />
Spätburgunder. That it has no trouble ripening<br />
is amply evident in both of his 2018 wines,<br />
where we happened to like the fleshy-fresh<br />
wine without site designation a little more<br />
than the slightly broader single-site wine.<br />
92 2018 »Pinot Noix Reserve« Dhron Hofberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Concentrated Pinot nose, ripe blueberry, some wax and new<br />
wood. Herbaceous on the palate, starts smoothly, pronounced<br />
aromatic expression, creamy, relatively dry but ripe<br />
tannins, a little less fruit on the palate than on the nose.<br />
Ripe acidity, broad finish. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
92 2017 »Pinot Noix« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Raspberry, cherry, dried meat and discreet wood on the nose.<br />
On the palate lively acidity, good freshness, sinewy style,<br />
relatively good amount of quality tannins for the medium<br />
weight fruit cover, ripe tannin, clear mineral definition, Burgundian<br />
style. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
93 2018 »Pinot Noix« Spätburgunder tr.<br />
Berryish Pinot scent, new wood, cherry, almond stones and<br />
wet stones nuances. Fruity on the palate, cherry and sour<br />
cherry, fine, smoothly embedded tannins, very ripe phenolics,<br />
good proportions and good freshness. A complete<br />
Pinot, chalky notes on the finish. 12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€€€<br />
272 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
VAN VOLXEM<br />
Mosel | WINERIES<br />
Zum Schlossberg 347, 54459 Wiltingen<br />
T: +49 (6501) 802290, office@vanvolxem.com<br />
www.vanvolxem.com<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Dominik Völk<br />
Contact: Roman Niewodniczanski<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 450,000 (100 % white)/80 ha<br />
This year we have to commence our discussion<br />
of the current vintage with a<br />
song of praise for the sweet wines: the<br />
Beerenauslese from the Kanzemer Altenberg<br />
presented by Roman Niewodniczanski and<br />
Dominik Völk simply left us speechless: what<br />
an ethereal and subtle nature, what inherent<br />
power and momentum, what crystalline clarity…wow!<br />
The dry wines are no less thrilling –<br />
and in 2019 we see the Scharzhofberger simply<br />
of equal stature alongside the Pergentsknopp.<br />
This, of course, is a snapshotof that<br />
particular moment – in any case: everything is<br />
magnificent here!<br />
95 2019 Wiltingen Volz Riesling GG<br />
Stone fruit on the nose, apricot, apple, citrus fruit, floral<br />
notes, herbs. Tautly built on the palate, dense and tightly woven,<br />
ripe, well-integrated acidity, fine sweetness, also tartness<br />
and phenolic hints. Intense and with a mineral base,<br />
good potential. 12 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
95 2019 Wiltingen Scharzhofberg<br />
Pergentsknopp Riesling GG<br />
Herbal spice in the powerful aroma, fine smoke, apple and<br />
stone fruit, also wet slate. On the palate there is a crystalline<br />
acidity that runs pleasantly through the taut texture with a<br />
discreet sweetness and freshness that intermingle well. Tart<br />
notes emerge as well on the consistent and long finish.<br />
12 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
95 2019 Wiltingen Scharzhofberg Riesling GG<br />
Notes of spontaneous fermentation on the nose, herbs, apple,<br />
malt, also spicy and peppery notes. On the palate there is<br />
good balance, dense and bundled in an calm yet insistent<br />
way with a cultivated acidic vein. Spicy and mineral, yet noble<br />
and with profile. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
98 2018 »Alte Reben« Kanzem Altenberg<br />
Riesling Beerenauslese<br />
A very delicate botrytis scent followed by citrusy, fresh-fruity<br />
notes; crystalline and very clear on the nose. On the palate<br />
there is brilliant freshness and minerality, not overly viscous,<br />
lively and cultivated in the acidity, but without any aggression.<br />
A Beerenauslese full of finesse. 5,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
94 2019 »Alte Reben« Kanzem Altenberg<br />
Riesling GG<br />
90 2019 »Rotschiefer« Riesling<br />
Kabinett feinherb<br />
90 2019 Saarburg Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 »Saar« Riesling trocken<br />
94 2019 »Alte Reben« Kanzem Altenberg<br />
Riesling Auslese<br />
92 2019 Ockfen Bockstein Riesling Spätlese<br />
91 2019 Wawern Ritterpfad Riesling Kabinett<br />
91 2019 »Alte Reben« Riesling trocken<br />
Fragrant nose of fresh hay, tangy spicy-slate nuances and<br />
zesty lime peel. On the palate a mature acidity with beautiful<br />
depth, substance and extremely long, juicy finish with<br />
fine spicy minerality at the end. A great food wine!<br />
12 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
273
WEINGUT DR. HEINZ WAGNER<br />
Bahnhofstrasse 3, 54439 Saarburg<br />
T: +49 (6581) 2457, info@weingutdrwagner.de<br />
www.weingutdrwagner.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9.30–12 hrs and<br />
13.30–17 hrs, Saturdays 9.30–13 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Christiane Wagner<br />
Contact: Christiane Wagner<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 60,000 (100 % white)/7 ha<br />
Christiane Wagner, cellar master and<br />
current generation at this family-run<br />
winery, continues her stellar performance.<br />
What she presented is not only classy,<br />
but it also provides absolute drinking pleasure.<br />
Her Kabinetts turned out exquisitely well,<br />
this charming Wagner is particularly talented<br />
when it comes to expressing balanced acidity.<br />
Amongst the single-site wines, we fell for both<br />
the dry and the residual sweet Rieslings. Her<br />
wines are never plump, they are always slender<br />
and racy, even her Auslese from the Ockfener<br />
Bockstein. The world loves this kind of<br />
German Riesling.<br />
93 2018 Saarburg Rausch Riesling GG<br />
Filigree, restrained bouquet. Opens up beautifully on the palate<br />
without becoming too broad. The present fruit sweetness<br />
is cushioned by grippy acidity and slate spice. With potential<br />
for many more years. Still slightly greenish tones on<br />
the finish. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
Sweet yet sophisticated, absolutely clean, astonishingly long<br />
finish. 8,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2019 »Josef Heinrich« Saarburg Rausch<br />
Riesling Spätlese<br />
89 2019 »Alte Reben« Saarburg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Pale green in the glass, spicy slate notes, papaya and hints of<br />
yeast on the nose. On the palate also fine fruit accents from<br />
passion fruit to ripe peach and apricot, but also good amounts<br />
of minerality. Also texture and gripping acidity, an uncomplicated<br />
wine in the best sense. 10 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
92 2019 Ockfen Bockstein Riesling Auslese<br />
Fine pineapple notes, apricot and papaya in the bouquet. On<br />
the palate, the fruit is beautifully polished and clean. Despite<br />
70 grams of residual sugar, only comparatively discreet<br />
sweetness buffered with moderate acidity. Increased viscosity.<br />
Excellent, delicious finish. 8 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2019 Saarburg Laurentiusberg<br />
Riesling Kabinett<br />
Another wine that is a lot of fun, highly precise and clearly<br />
defined. The filigree fruit aromas in the bouquet only hint at<br />
the almost intoxicating fullness that follows on the palate.<br />
91 2019 Riesling Kabinett feinherb<br />
The estate brilliantly proves that Kabinett wines are the<br />
Saar's supreme discipline. The residual sugar is not noticeable<br />
at all, but is in ideal balance with the acidity and slatefresh<br />
spiciness. Storage potential for decades!<br />
9 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
274 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGÜTER WEGELER<br />
GUTSHAUS MOSEL<br />
Mosel | WINERIES<br />
Martertal 2, 54470 Bernkastel-Kues<br />
T: +49 (6531) 2493, info@wegeler.com<br />
www.wegeler.com<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Norbert Breit<br />
Contact: Tom Drieseberg<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 80,000 (100 % white)/13 ha<br />
Everything runs smoothly in the<br />
slate-covered manor house in Bernkastel.<br />
The team surrounding Dr Tom<br />
Drieseberg and cellar master Norbert Breit<br />
used the wonderful grapes that 2019 delivered<br />
on a silver platter to make wines full of poise<br />
and mineral density. In the end, it is down to<br />
personal taste whether you appreciate the dry<br />
or noble sweet wines more. It is rather fortunate<br />
then, that all the prices are calculated so<br />
fairly, that you will not have to break the bank<br />
– even if you cannot decide between GG and<br />
Spätlese. Wine lovers with wisdom will stash a<br />
few bottles away!<br />
95 2019 Bernkastel Doctor Riesling GG<br />
Well condensed Mosel nose with yellow fruit, spice and minerality,<br />
also darker notes and slightly ethereal. On the palate<br />
there is a very good balance of elements, the ripe acidity is<br />
precise. Good substance, elegant and spicy minerality, good<br />
perspective. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
95 2019 Wehlen Sonnenuhr Riesling GG<br />
Spicy nose, allspice and coriander plus ripe yellow fruit, papaya<br />
and peach. Substantial and dense on the palate with<br />
spiciness and an aristocratic acidity, depicts the Sonnenuhr<br />
in a beautiful classic interpretation that conveys stature and<br />
greatness. Lots of substance. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
98 2019 Bernkastel Doctor Riesling<br />
Trockenbeerenauslese Grosse Lage<br />
Strong botrytis scents, intense mineral nuances, kumquat<br />
and caramelised notes. On the palate there are two poles:<br />
viscosity and tactile minerality. Penetrating but ripe acidity.<br />
All very finely chiselled, salty, clear and fresh despite the immense<br />
extract. 6 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
96 2019 Bernkastel Doctor Riesling<br />
Beerenauslese Grosse Lage<br />
Scents of date, fine spicy botrytis tones and a hint of smoke.<br />
Highly dispersing on the palate with fresh yellow fruit, herbs,<br />
sweetness and acidity in great harmony with mineral nuances.<br />
Good extract and very good balance. Finely chiselled and<br />
not loud, stylish. 7 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
93 2019 Bernkastel Lay Riesling<br />
Grosse Lage feinherb<br />
92 2019 Graach Riesling feinherb<br />
89 2019 Riesling feinherb<br />
88 2019 Bernkastel Riesling trocken<br />
94 2019 Bernkastel Doctor Riesling<br />
Auslese Grosse Lage<br />
92 2019 Bernkastel Doctor Riesling<br />
Spätlese Grosse Lage<br />
92 2019 Bernkastel Badstube Riesling<br />
Kabinett Grosse Lage<br />
94 2019 Wehlen Sonnenuhr Riesling<br />
Spätlese Grosse Lage<br />
Clear, medium yellow. Fine mineral spiciness, ripe citrus<br />
fruit, chiselled, papaya, lemon balm and refined honey.<br />
Fine texture on the palate followed by ripe fruit, citrus<br />
notes and apple peel with refined phenolics, densely integrated<br />
and very balanced. Power and elegance, great<br />
length and spiciness. 8,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
275
WEINGUT WILLEMS-WILLEMS<br />
Mühlenstrasse 13, 54329 Konz-Oberemmel<br />
T: +49 (6501) 15816<br />
info@schiefer-trifft-muschelkalk.de<br />
www.schiefer-trifft-muschelkalk.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Saturdays 9–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Peter Thelen<br />
Contact: Carolin Hofmann<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 50,000 (90 % white, 10 % red)/7 ha<br />
Last year, we already noticed the upward<br />
trajectory in this family-run estate in<br />
Oberemmel. This year, the wines seemed<br />
to have gained even more in precision. The<br />
wines are as crunchy as they are tension-laden,<br />
right across the range – and it was thus a pleasure<br />
to award the third star. The fact that the<br />
Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling, vibrant<br />
with energy, moved one our tasters to say that<br />
it had “something eternal about it” tells you all<br />
you need to know about the timelessly purist<br />
style of Willems-Willems. And – notwithstanding<br />
this evocation of eternity – we already look<br />
forward to tasting the next vintage!<br />
94 2019 Niedermennig Herrenberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Stony spice with hints of potentilla on a hot stone and iron<br />
oxide; a beguiling scent. On the palate, there is concentrated,<br />
crystalline freshness. Exactly what you want from a Riesling.<br />
Exciting already, but this concentration has an eternal expression.<br />
12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
nice balance between acidity and textural sweetness with<br />
nuances of lime and lemon balm. A little phenolic with a very<br />
distinctive mineral thread. Potential. 8 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 Krettnach Euchariusberg<br />
Riesling Kabinett<br />
91 2019 Oberemmel Karlsberg Riesling trocken<br />
Freshness is immediately noticeable followed by scents of<br />
apple and grapefruit which literally jump out of the glass. A<br />
stony, herbaceous note is also evident. On the palate, there is<br />
a bundled, supple freshness, a sinew that runs deliciously<br />
through the wine. 12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
94 2019 Oberemmel Altenberg<br />
Riesling Spätlese<br />
Berry and floral, almost a defined red berry scent. On the palate<br />
there is crunchy acidity and a comparatively defensive<br />
sweetness. Rich, full-bodied, prepared for bottle ageing in an<br />
almost dry style. Discipline is required not to touch this too<br />
early! 8 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
92 2019 Oberemmel Altenberg<br />
Riesling Auslese<br />
Clear, rich yellow. On the nose ripe citrus fruit, dried lime<br />
peel, herbal spice with a mineral underlay. On the palate a<br />
94 2019 Niedermennig Herrenberg<br />
Riesling Kabinett<br />
Lime and slate, plus a balsamic mineral spiciness at the<br />
very beginning of its development. On the palate, full-bodied,<br />
pithy defensive acidity behind penetrating acidic tension.<br />
Intensely tactile minerality. It has plenty of extract,<br />
but remains typical of a Kabinett. Excellent!<br />
9 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
276 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT WÜRTZBERG<br />
Mosel | WINERIES<br />
Würtzberg 1, 54455 Serrig<br />
T: +49 (6581) 9200992, office@weingut-wuertzberg.de<br />
weingut-wuertzberg.de<br />
Cellar Door: Thursdays and Fridays 14–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–16 hrs and by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Felix Heimes<br />
Contact: Felix Heimes<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 80,000 (95 % white, 5 % red)/17 ha<br />
This year it was Weingut Würtzberg’s offering<br />
of sweet and noble sweet wines<br />
that captured the hearts of our tasting<br />
team. A well-travelled sommelier noted enthusiastically:<br />
“This is a great discovery for me,<br />
these are wines with great potential.” Yet, the<br />
dry wines, like the “Grosses Gewächs” from<br />
the Würtzberg or the slate-savoury “Scivaro”<br />
are equally convincing. Meanwhile, the young<br />
winemaker Felix Heimes is supported by his<br />
sister Annalena, freshly graduated from Geisenheim<br />
and back home in Serrig. Bundled<br />
power in the Saar!<br />
91 2019 »Grosses Gewächs« Serrig Würtzberg<br />
Riesling Spätlese trocken<br />
Herbal notes on the complex nose, stone fruit, citrus aromas<br />
with slate spice nuances. Slenderly structured on the<br />
palate, but with good intensity, fullness and also density.<br />
Clearly defined opulence grounded by slate-spicy minerality.<br />
Shows its origin. 12 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
94 2019 Serrig Herrenberg Riesling Auslese<br />
Authentic, youthful Riesling yellow appearance. Maritime<br />
and stone fruit character scents with hints of smoke and<br />
stone nuances and even a hint of Rheingau in this wine followed<br />
by apple tart on a marzipan puff pastry base. Compact<br />
fruit sweetness and varied accents on the palate.<br />
Well done! 9,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2019 Serrig Herrenberg Riesling Spätlese<br />
Pale yellow with almost invisible green hues. Subtle lemon<br />
peel and leaves on the nose. On the palate there is good<br />
concentration and a superb interplay and balance of sweetness<br />
and acidity. Radiant Riesling with enormous potential<br />
that can develop over many years. 10 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
91 2019 Serrig Würtzberg Riesling Kabinett<br />
White gold colour. Green apples with a hint of lemon blossom<br />
and coriander seed. Sensitive and at the same time<br />
authentic, fine sweetness with ripe acidity. A wine with<br />
delicacy and refinement, honest, independent and with a<br />
gentle but authoritative hallmark.<br />
10 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 «Rotschiefer« Serrig Würtzberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 »Blauschiefer« Serrig Herrenberg<br />
Riesling<br />
89 2019 »Goldstück« Serrig Würtzberg<br />
Riesling Kabinett feinherb<br />
89 2019 Auxerrois trocken<br />
89 2019 Pinot Blanc trocken<br />
89 2019 Ockfen Bockstein Riesling Kabinett<br />
90 2019 »Alte Reben« Serrig Würtzberg<br />
Riesling Spätlese<br />
91 2019 »Scivaro« Riesling<br />
Notes of spontaneous fermentation, herbs, apple peel, caraway,<br />
fresh hay with scents of apple and apricot. On the palate,<br />
lean and tightly built with good extract, fine tart sweetness<br />
which merges with juice and slate spice. Shows traction,<br />
mineral definition and elegance. 12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
277
Bernkastel-Kues<br />
PASSIONATE<br />
HOSTS<br />
TOGETHER WITH THE REGION’S WINEMAKERS – ABSOLUTE EXPERTS<br />
WHEN IT COMES TO GASTRONOMY – FALSTAFF HAS CAREFULLY CHOSEN<br />
AND COLLATED THE BEST ADDRESSES FOR EATING,<br />
DRINKING AND STAYING.<br />
Burg Arras<br />
56859 Alf<br />
This castle has towered over the Mosel valley for<br />
more than a 1000 years; today you can stay in its<br />
comfortable rooms and eat well in the castle restaurant.<br />
The cuisine focuses on local produce and<br />
ingredients, and the roast venison and the Mosel<br />
sausages ‘blau’ are always an excellent choice.<br />
Weinhaus Berg<br />
56814 Bremm<br />
If you are located in the middle of one of the best<br />
wine regions, it is easy to select the best wines. The<br />
wines presented are from the surrounding vineyards,<br />
such as the Bremmer Calmont, the<br />
steepest vineyard in Europe.<br />
Burg Arras<br />
+49 (6542) 22275<br />
www.arras.de<br />
Moselstrasse 39<br />
+49 (2675) 301<br />
www.weinhausberg.de<br />
Recommended by: Reis – feine Weine!<br />
MOSEL<br />
Recommended by: Falstaff-Redaktion<br />
278 falstaff<br />
Wine Guide Germany 2021
MOSEL | INNS AND RESTAURANTS<br />
Rüssels Landhaus<br />
54426 Naurath<br />
This haven of good taste is located in a former<br />
mill. Star chef Harald Rüssel, himself a passionate<br />
hunter, is responsible for the upscale cooking.<br />
The wines are sourced from across Europe, but<br />
especially from the nearby Mosel vineyards.<br />
Büdlicherbrück 1<br />
+49 (6509) 91400<br />
www.landhaus-st-urban.de<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Ansgar Clüsserath<br />
54470 Bernkastel-Kues<br />
Graacher Tor -<br />
Leckerbissen Restaurant<br />
Michael and Michaela Mast know a thing or two<br />
about good food. Their cooking is hearty and<br />
down-to-earth, served in the relaxed and cosy surroundings<br />
of their small restaurant. They know<br />
how to spoil their guests with gastronomic delights<br />
based on old recipes.<br />
Graacher Strasse 3<br />
+49 (6531) 4659<br />
www.graacher-tor.de<br />
Recommended by: Falstaff-Redaktion<br />
Wein+Raum<br />
56814 Ediger-Eller<br />
Typical Mosel Rieslings are the calling card of this<br />
estate, which focuses entirely on natural winemaking.<br />
Pinot Noir, Auxerrois and Pinot Blanc are<br />
also grown and made into wine. From May to August,<br />
homemade delicacies are served alongside<br />
the wine in the courtyard.<br />
Strausswirtschaft<br />
Weingut Boesen<br />
54439 Palzem<br />
Easy-drinking Mosel wines play the main role in<br />
this friendly family business. The best place to taste<br />
the diverse wines is in the rustic Weinstube<br />
alongside the classic vintner's platter, the hearty<br />
game stew or the juicy pork loin steak.<br />
Bachstrasse 11<br />
+49 (2675) 220<br />
www.weingut-oster.de<br />
Auerstrasse 2<br />
+49 (6583) 453<br />
www.weingut-boesen.de<br />
Recommended by: Wein+Gut Oster<br />
Recommended by: Falstaff-Redaktion<br />
80–84<br />
85–89<br />
90–94<br />
95–100 Points<br />
279
Heim’s Restaurant<br />
im Hotel Reiler Hof <br />
56861 Reil<br />
This stylish hotel also boasts a beautiful restaurant<br />
that Christoph Heim has turned into a hotspot<br />
for good food. His dishes skilfully run the gamut<br />
from classic to modern, accompanied by a<br />
good selection of Mosel wines.<br />
Moselstrasse 27<br />
+49 (6542) 2629<br />
www.reiler-hof.de<br />
<br />
Food: 44 | 50<br />
Service: 17 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
87<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
54498 Piesport<br />
Piesporter Goldtröpfchen<br />
The wine hotel is located directly at the foot of the<br />
world-famous ‘Piesporter Goldtröpfchen’ vineyard<br />
and from the terrace you can enjoy a beautiful<br />
view of the Mosel. The cuisine is regional<br />
with international influences and wines are from<br />
the hotel's own estate.<br />
Am Domhof 4-5<br />
+49 (6507) 2442<br />
www.weingut-hain.de<br />
Recommended by: Falstaff-Redaktion<br />
Schanz<br />
54498 Piesport<br />
You will feel completely at home in this small, family-run<br />
hotel and restaurant that shines with its<br />
tasteful ambience. Thomas Schanz's French-inspired<br />
cuisine is worth the trip anyway while Adrienn<br />
Pasztusics provides perfect service.<br />
Belle Epoque<br />
56841 Traben-Trarbach<br />
The hotel restaurant on the river Mosel shines<br />
with purest Art Nouveau style. A unique ambience<br />
in which to enjoy Matthias Meurer's cooking,<br />
which skilfully switches between classic-modern<br />
and French-inspired. This is accompanied by a<br />
good selection of well-matched wines.<br />
Bahnhofstrasse 8a<br />
+49 (6507) 92520<br />
www.schanz-restaurant.de<br />
An der Mosel 11<br />
+49 (6541) 7030<br />
www.bellevue-hotel.de<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Fischborn Bergeshof,<br />
Weingut Daniel Twardowski,Weingut Hain<br />
Recommended by: Falstaff-Redaktion<br />
280 falstaff<br />
Wine Guide Germany 2021
MOSEL | INNS AND RESTAURANTS<br />
Petry<br />
56253 Treis-Karden<br />
The third generation of the Bell family now runs<br />
this castle, beautifully situated on the Mosel. The<br />
wine cellar boasts young wines as well as mature<br />
Grosse Gewächse. Chef Oliver Bell serves two menus<br />
that impressively illustrate the variety of flavours<br />
the region can offer.<br />
Klosterschenke<br />
54293 Trier<br />
The Klosterschenke's location is picturesque, surrounded<br />
by the wine villages along the Mosel. The<br />
young kitchen team headed by Christian Zenner<br />
focuses on fresh, refined cooking. There is an<br />
upscale restaurant and one that focuses on regional<br />
cuisine.<br />
St.-Castor-Strasse 80<br />
+49 (2672) 9340<br />
www.schloss-hotel-petry.de<br />
Klosterstrasse 10<br />
+49 (651) 968440<br />
www.hotel-klosterschenke.de<br />
Recommended by: Weingut von Schleinitz<br />
Recommended by: Weingut F. J. Regnery<br />
Das Weinhaus <br />
54290 Trier<br />
It is not only the very well-stocked cellar that<br />
draws guests to the renowned Weinhaus. The cooking<br />
is also worth the trip for lunch or dinner.<br />
Both the cordon bleu and the Trier speciality of<br />
Teerdisch come highly recommended.<br />
54487 Wintrich<br />
Strausswirtschaft Matthiashof<br />
Hospitality is a top priority in this lovely family-run<br />
business. If you stay at the guesthouse,<br />
you should not miss the Weinstube. Not only are<br />
all of the estate's wines served here, but the hearty<br />
cuisine also makes for happy faces.<br />
Photo: 2019 Marco Schwarz<br />
Brückenstrasse 7<br />
+49 (651) 1704924<br />
www.weinhaus-trier.de<br />
<br />
Food: 42 | 50<br />
Service: 17 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
85<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
Bergstrasse 12-13<br />
+49 (6534) 93250<br />
www.matthiashof.de<br />
Recommended by: Falstaff-Redaktion<br />
80–84<br />
85–89<br />
90–94<br />
95–100 Points<br />
281
Photo: WSNA<br />
NAHE<br />
DYNAMICS AND DIVERSITY
View of the Traiser Bastei<br />
MORE XYLOPHONE THAN TIMPANI<br />
Once you have tasted wines in the Nahe, you cannot stay away.<br />
A repeat offender reports …<br />
WORDS HEINZ KIRCHHOFF<br />
Some things in life just seem to come<br />
down to sorcery. In this case, of course,<br />
wine has something to do with it.<br />
Because once you have tasted wine in the<br />
Nahe, you cannot stay away. And how does<br />
a wine lover eventually end up in the Nahe?<br />
Well, the roads to wine are intricate. My<br />
version goes like this: In the past the white<br />
wines of Burgundy inspired me. It was only<br />
much later that I started my quest for the<br />
German Riesling equivalent. I visited the<br />
usual regions, tasted, discussed and<br />
compared. In the end I found myself (and the<br />
Riesling) in the Nahe. Why there, exactly?<br />
What makes the Nahe so unique?<br />
GEOLOGICAL PATCHWORK<br />
Soil is the mother of wine and in the Nahe,<br />
the soils shine with a geological speciality.<br />
On the one hand, you could refer to this as<br />
chaotic, on the other, however, it creates a<br />
fantastic diversity of characteristics. No<br />
other German region can boast such a<br />
patchwork. Grey slate, rhyolite, shale and<br />
volcanic soils like porphyry and melaphyr<br />
take turns. While these different strata sit on<br />
top of each other elsewhere, hidden deep<br />
inside the planet, in the Nahe they all just sit<br />
alongside each other on the surface. Jakob<br />
Schneider, winemaker in Niederhausen, can<br />
count up to fifty geological formations<br />
within a few square kilometres. When you<br />
get to taste the Rieslings - Löhrer Berg,<br />
Krone, Königsschild, Karthäuser und Sankt<br />
Remigiusberg made by Martin Tesch in<br />
Langenlonsheim, these differences become<br />
downright exemplary. Riesling is predestined<br />
for “translating” soils. Even if wine does not<br />
contain any active volatile compounds of<br />
the soil itself, it is certain that different soil<br />
types result in different perceptions of taste<br />
and smell. And that is exactly what makes<br />
284 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
NAHE | A PORTRAIT OF THE REGION<br />
the Nahe with its diversity of soils so<br />
exciting.<br />
WILD CARROTS IN THE VINEYARD<br />
The best way to approach Nahe wine is on<br />
foot. On the wine hiking trail from<br />
Niederhausen to the former Royal Prussian<br />
State Domaine, today called Gut<br />
Hermannsberg, for instance. En route you<br />
cannot help but take in the impressive<br />
gradients of the steep slopes, the<br />
construction of the dry stone walls, the<br />
edible treats (wild carrots) of the vineyards<br />
and the vegetative growth cycle in the<br />
fallow parcels that sport rare, indigenous<br />
orchids. You can also witness workers of<br />
the world-famous Weingut Dönnhoff<br />
cumbersomely spreading straw in the<br />
vineyards to guard against the erosive<br />
effects of sudden downpours. At Gut<br />
Hermannsberg, winemaker Karsten Peter<br />
(from the Pfalz) forges his own path:<br />
shortened skin contact, gentle pressing,<br />
reductive vinification in a combination of<br />
wood and steel. The 2015 wine from the<br />
Kupfergrube vineyard is not released for<br />
sale until five years after harvest. But it just<br />
became apparent again that not only Grosse<br />
Gewächse (wines from classified, single<br />
Weingut Dönnhoff – a fourthgeneration<br />
family-run estate<br />
vineyards) require some bottle age to show<br />
their full potential. Two wines from their<br />
own cellar, Schäfer-Fröhlich‘s estate Riesling<br />
(!) and Traiser Rotenfels Riesling (classified<br />
as Erste Lage/premier cru, thus mid-ranging<br />
in price) by Weingut Dr. Crusius, both from<br />
2015, still showed precise fruit, enlivening<br />
acidity and great flow. And by the way,<br />
from Weingut Dr. Crusius it is only a short<br />
hop to the panoramic lookout atop the<br />
Photos: Weingut Poss/Torsten Silz, provided, Diel/Hendrik Haase und die Bilder<br />
One of the Riesling epicentres of German<br />
viticulture: Gut Hermannsberg<br />
285
The new generation at Weingut<br />
Dr. Crusius: daughters Judith and Rebecca<br />
Rotenfels – Europe’s highest rockface north<br />
of the Alps – with breath-taking views<br />
across the Nahe valley.<br />
COMBINING WINE AND FOOD<br />
Another perfect approach to wine is along<br />
the idyllic riverbank and beyond on a<br />
bicycle. Weingut Hexamer is an excellent<br />
destination for such a tour since Harald<br />
Hexamer’s wines impress time and again<br />
with their masterly interplay of acidity and<br />
sweetness. A positive side effect: the<br />
picturesque country inn “Zur Traube” just<br />
across the road where Herbert Langendorf<br />
creates perfectly-cooked dishes to go with<br />
the wine. And while you are en route to<br />
Meddersheim you should put in a definite<br />
stop at restaurant “Hermannshöhle” in<br />
Niederhausen: its elegant confines are home<br />
to a wine menu that is as broad as it is deep.<br />
An even deeper local impression can be<br />
formed at one of the regularly held<br />
“Winzerstammtische” or winemaker-gettogethers.<br />
Owner and chef Wigbert Weck<br />
combines these happenings with his no-frills,<br />
but ambitious, locally-sourced dishes. You<br />
should also broaden your wine mind at<br />
“Nahe.Wein.Vinothek” in Bad Kreuznach.<br />
150 regional wines are listed, and 50 regional<br />
bottles are open for tasting.<br />
The 130km/81 mile circular Nahe wine<br />
route is a more convenient approach by car.<br />
A bit off the beaten track, within the<br />
Naturpark Soonwald (AONB ), you will find<br />
Weingut Hees in Auen at the rather apt<br />
address “Zur feuchten Ecke” . You can have<br />
a relaxed tasting at the country inn “Zum<br />
Jäger aus Kurpfalz”, while Weingut<br />
Schäfer-Fröhlich is right next door in<br />
Bockenau. And wherever there is wine there<br />
S<br />
NAHE WINE REGION<br />
Growing area<br />
approx. 4150 hectares<br />
Administrative Split<br />
1 district (Bereich), 6 collective sites<br />
(Grosslage), 310 single sites (Einzellagen)<br />
Soils<br />
Porphyry, melaphyr, slate, loess, rhyolite<br />
Important Grape Varieties<br />
Riesling, Weissburgunder, Spätburgunder<br />
Winegrowers’ Association<br />
Weinland Nahe e. V.<br />
Burgenlandstrasse 7<br />
55543 Bad Kreuznach<br />
www.weinland-nahe.de<br />
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NAHE | A PORTRAIT OF THE REGION<br />
chäfer-Fröhlich<br />
Weingut Schäfer-Fröhlich, Bockenauer Stromberg<br />
is culture: take in the ruins of the former<br />
monastery Disibodenberg where Saint Hildegard<br />
of Bingen lived and worked for forty years. The<br />
nearby meditation route “Weg der Stille” (route<br />
of silence) offers contemplative peace.<br />
BALANCED FINESSE<br />
Back to wine. What is it that is so fascinating<br />
about Nahe Riesling? Well, there is this<br />
unmistakable, balanced style that combines<br />
finesse, ripe acidity and aromatic intensity<br />
with a complex, but never powerful, body<br />
all wrapped in a totally animating lightness.<br />
It is nothing to do with sorcery after all: it<br />
merely is the result of a successful symbiosis<br />
between nature’s offerings and formidable<br />
winemaking. Where other regions use<br />
timpani and trumpet, the Nahe plays in<br />
quieter, more subtle sounds – think<br />
xylophone and bassoon. Put another way,<br />
colour is applied with a fine brush rather<br />
than daubed. Then there is the calm<br />
composure of the winemakers, combined<br />
with natural authority and confidence. They<br />
know what they are capable of achieving.<br />
They don’t mind that the Nahe is an often<br />
underrated region. They are a bit like<br />
prophets without honour in their own<br />
country: nobody bothers Cornelius<br />
Dönnhoff when he’s out and about in Bad<br />
Sobernheim – but in New York he is<br />
celebrated like a rock star.<br />
Photography was provided<br />
Weingut Schäfer-Fröhlich is known for its<br />
unmistakeable, authentic Rieslings<br />
INFO<br />
Heinz Kirchhoff, born in 1945, was a lecturer at a<br />
commercial college. He describes himself as a “ selfconfessed<br />
wine lover”. Beyond that, when he is not<br />
visiting various German wine regions, an ambitious<br />
home cook with a wide gastronomic outlook.<br />
287
Niederhausen, Hermannshöhle – wines from<br />
this majestic site have helped to shape the<br />
reputation of German wines in the world<br />
GRANDS CRUS – NAHE<br />
TOP WINES FROM PRIVILEGED SITES OF THE REGION<br />
DORSHEIM | BURGBERG<br />
This barely 4ha/9.8 acre top site is an up<br />
to 60% steep amphitheatre facing south<br />
to south-east. It rises 190-290m/623-<br />
951ft. The stony soils are composed of<br />
slate debris, quartzite and gravel but there<br />
also is loam. Water availability is thus<br />
ensured. The name refers to Burg, i.e.<br />
Castle Layen.<br />
95 2018 Riesling GG<br />
Schlossgut Diel, further info on page 294<br />
93 2019 Riesling Alte Reben trocke n<br />
Weingut Schömehl.<br />
www.schoemehl-wein.de<br />
NORHEIM | DELLCHEN<br />
The slate soils of this 2.6ha/6.4 acre site,<br />
partially terraced, also contain weathered<br />
material of the neighbouring volcanic<br />
rocks. The stoniness of the soil and the<br />
fully southern aspect, with inclines between<br />
50-70%, make Dellchen an outstanding<br />
vineyard – but one that is also hard to<br />
cultivate. Its name (=little dip, indent) is<br />
derived from the fact that the vines thrive<br />
amidst the rocky outcrops.<br />
95 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Dönnhoff, further info on page 296<br />
92 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
Weingut Mathern,<br />
www.weingut-mathern.de<br />
NIEDERHAUSEN |<br />
HERMANNSHÖHLE<br />
This 8ha/19.8 acre site enjoys a global<br />
reputation due to its ability to bring forth<br />
delicately-spiced Riesling. The stony slate<br />
soils, also containing calcareous veins,<br />
have done much to create this reputation,<br />
as has its dome-shaped southeast-southsouth<br />
west aspect with its incline of up to<br />
60%. The vines enjoy a sweet-spot altitude<br />
of 130-175m/426-570ft. The term<br />
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Rhein<br />
NAHE | GRANDS CRUS<br />
Selected Grand Cru Sites<br />
Vineyard Area<br />
Villages<br />
BURGBERG<br />
Dorsheim<br />
Nahe<br />
HALENBERG<br />
Monzingen<br />
Bad Kreuznach<br />
DELLCHEN<br />
Schlossböckelheim<br />
Norheim<br />
FELSENBERG<br />
Niederhausen<br />
Nahe<br />
HERMANNSHÖHLE<br />
KUPFERGRUBE<br />
Alsenz<br />
Glan<br />
“Höhle“ (=cave) is derived from a small<br />
mine while “Hermann” pays homage to<br />
Hermes, messenger of the gods, to whom a<br />
late-Roman shrine was dedicated on the<br />
Lemberg, on whose slope the vineyard sits.<br />
97 2019 Riesling GG<br />
97 2012 Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Dönnhoff, further info on page 296<br />
94 2019 »Magnus« Riesling trocken<br />
Weingut Jakob Schneider, schneider-wein.com<br />
93 2019 Riesling Spätlese trocken<br />
Weingut Mathern, www.weingut-mathern.de<br />
93 2016 Riesling Spätlese trocken S<br />
Weingut Sitzius, www.sitzius.com<br />
98 2019 »Felsentürmchen« Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Dönnhoff, further info on page 296<br />
93 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Gut Hermannsberg, further info on page 299<br />
92 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Dr. Crusius,<br />
www.weingut-crusius.de<br />
90 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
90 2017 Riesling trocken<br />
Weingut K.H. Schneider,<br />
further info on page 311<br />
Photography was provided<br />
SCHLOSSBÖCKELHEIM |<br />
FELSENBERG<br />
Volcanic soils characterise this site and its<br />
wines. This incline of up to 60% steepness<br />
is covered in the debris of the rocks that<br />
overlook the vineyard and protect it from<br />
northerly winds. The subsoil is of dark,<br />
gritty loam. The south-southwest-facing<br />
site rises between 125-200m/410-656ft<br />
from the Nahe riverbank.<br />
95 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Schäfer-Fröhlich, further info on page 298<br />
Norheim, Dellchen<br />
289
Schlossböckelheimer Kupfergrube -<br />
legendary top vineyard site in the Nahe.<br />
SCHLOSSBÖCKELHEIM |<br />
KUPFERGRUBE<br />
Rising between 140-265m/459-870ft with<br />
inclines of up to 60%, this site faces south to<br />
southwest and has exceptionally poor soils.<br />
This 13ha/32 acre site was created at the<br />
beginning of the 20th century, partially by<br />
blasting away rock at the site of a<br />
decommissioned copper mine. Above the<br />
vineyard you can spot green patches of<br />
verdigris.<br />
and thermal airflows in summer allow for<br />
a long vegetative period without much<br />
disease pressure. When botrytis comes, it<br />
develops really late.<br />
94 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Schäfer-Fröhlich, further info on page 310<br />
93 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Emrich-Schönleber,<br />
www.emrich-schoenleber.de<br />
91 2019 Riesling trocken »Grosser Genuss«<br />
Weingut Udo Weber, further info on page 315<br />
96 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Schäfer-Fröhlich, further info on page 310<br />
94 2015 Riesling »Réserve« GG<br />
Gut Hermannsberg, further info on page 299<br />
94 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Dr. Crusius,<br />
www.weingut-crusius.de<br />
MONZINGEN | HALENBERG<br />
Layered, drought-prone soils characterise<br />
this 7.7ha/19 acre site in the Upper Nahe.<br />
It is only at its foot that there is some loam,<br />
the steep slope (incline up to 60%) then<br />
boasts rhyolite, grey slate, quartzite and<br />
gravel. Its altitude between 160-240m/524-<br />
787ft, is south to southwest-facing aspect,<br />
Photography was provided<br />
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Nahe | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT CHRISTIAN BAMBERGER<br />
STEINHARDTER HOF<br />
Kreuznacher Strasse 2<br />
55566 Bad Sobernheim-Steinhardt<br />
T: +49 (6751) 6048, info@cb-wein.de<br />
www.cb-wein.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–12 hrs and<br />
14–18 hrs, Saturdays 8–14 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Christian Bamberger<br />
Contact: Christian Bamberger<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 200,000 (50 % white, 50 % red)/21 ha<br />
Without Christian Bamberger, the<br />
Nahe region would not nearly be<br />
as colourful, diverse and original<br />
as it currently is. He makes it as obvious in his<br />
present as in his previous offerings that he has<br />
always looked beyond the horizons – once<br />
again there are stylistic influences from stints<br />
90 2018 »Vulkangestein« Grauburgunder tr.<br />
Deep, complex nose with notes of pear, yellow apple, vegetal<br />
nuances, stone and fine smokiness. Clear, deep, round on the<br />
palate with mineral hints, fine tannin, juicy pear and building<br />
acidity. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2018 »QX« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Spicy earthy notes with cherry, blood orange and beetroot,<br />
strong toasty aromas, violets and foliage. On the palate<br />
there is ripe, supporting acid structure, concentrated,<br />
high-quality tannin, good substance, volume, spice and also<br />
Pinot Noir feeling. Youthful, lots of potential.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2018 »R Réserve« Cuvée trocken CD/ME<br />
Blend of Cabernet Dorsa and Merlot. Concentrated aroma of<br />
cassis and blackberry, black cherry, cigar box and dark chocolate.<br />
Good volume and complexity on the palate there is rich<br />
fruit, lots of spice with a strong supple tannins. California on<br />
the Nahe. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2018 »Vulkangestein« Spätburgunder tr.<br />
Amarena cherry in the powerful aroma, strong toast aromas,<br />
some leather, cigar smoke, mulberry, violets and lovage. Pinot<br />
that draws its qualities from its substance and power on<br />
the one hand, and from its volcanic soil on the other. A wine<br />
with a strong signature. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
abroad, California for instance. This<br />
open-minded winemaker made his name with<br />
powerful and wood-spiced Spätburgunders<br />
like his “QX” and imaginative creations like a<br />
white made from Merlot grapes. A new addition<br />
to the range is the savoury Silvaner “Ü30”<br />
from 36-year-old vines. Highly recommended!<br />
88 2018 »Fumé« Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
88 2019 »Don‘t be shy« Scheurebe trocken<br />
88 2019 »Sorgenfrei« trocken<br />
89 2019 »Merlot ist Weiss« trocken<br />
88 2019 »Lichtblick« trocken<br />
90 2018 »S Superior« Cuvée trocken<br />
CD/ME/CS<br />
90 2018 Schlossböckelheim<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 »Ü30 Alte Reben« Silvaner trocken<br />
Complex aromatics of apple, pear, hazelnut, fine spiciness,<br />
some mint leaf and a hint of melon. Juicy, with fine spicy<br />
grip, ripe acidity that is well-woven in, herbal notes, citric<br />
hints. Fresh and juicy, ends with herbal spiciness.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
291
WEIN- UND SEKTGUT BAMBERGER<br />
Römerstrasse 10, 55566 Meddersheim<br />
T: +49 (6751) 2624, kontakt@weingut-bamberger.de<br />
www.weingut-bamberger.de<br />
Cellar Door: Modays through Fridays 8–12 hrs and<br />
14–18 hrs, Saturdays 9–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Heiko Bamberger<br />
Contact: The Bamberger family<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 100,000 (80 % white, 20 % red)/15+1 ha<br />
Heiko Bamberger has delivered a fireworks<br />
display – and we congratulate<br />
him on his third star! His wines<br />
convinced us with their focused, nuanced and<br />
elegant nature, they are not loud and never<br />
come across as “made”. Instead, they show<br />
their natural habitat and terroir, like the subtle<br />
Riesling from the Monzinger Frühlingslätzchen<br />
or the mineral Weissburgunder from<br />
the Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg. We also<br />
have great enthusiasm for Bamberger’s Sekts –<br />
above all his aristocratic “Decade – I” from the<br />
2009 vintage. A gently fizzing sensuality captured<br />
in a kind of time capsule.<br />
94 2009 »Decade - I Riesling« brut nature<br />
A little incense merges with the ripe stone fruit of apricot<br />
and mirabelle plum plus orange zest, almond and a fine<br />
yeasty spice note. Slenderly-built on the palate with a lot of<br />
spice, concise acidity, grippy and with enormous mouth-content<br />
and an elaborate mousse. Seamlessly-bound, long on<br />
the palate. 12 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
92 2019 »Réserve« Monzingen<br />
Frühlingsplätzchen Riesling trocken<br />
On the nose clean, round with fine minerality and depth followed<br />
by light yellow fruit, orange, some vine peach, apricot and stone<br />
notes. Flowing on the palate there is imminent acidity and finelyconcentrated<br />
citrus fruit, slightly drying phenolics in the midpalate<br />
but centred and fresh on the finish. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2019 Monzingen Frühlingsplätzchen<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Bright fruit on the nose, stony, meadow herb, red apple, green banana,<br />
floral notes and delicate spice. Juicy and fresh on the palate,<br />
bright orange and sweet lemon, grippy acidity and fine phenolics.<br />
Charming, mineral, juicy and focused.<br />
12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
91 2019 Monzingen Frühlingsplätzchen<br />
Riesling Spätlese<br />
On the nose, interwoven light mineral notes, with ripe white<br />
peach. Bright fruit with a firm concentration on the palate. Discreet<br />
fruit sweetness, filigree but tight citrus acidity, elegant<br />
and nuanced offering some depth. 7,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
91 2019 Meddersheim Altenberg Riesling tr.<br />
91 2012 »Cuvée Pinot Réserve« brut nature<br />
91 2016 »Cuvée Pinot« brut<br />
91 2019 »Réserve« Meddersheim Altenberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
91 2019 Meddersheim Rheingrafenberg<br />
Grauburgunder trocken<br />
89 2018 Meddersheim Altenberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
90 2019 Meddersheim Altenberg<br />
Riesling Kabinett<br />
92 2019 Meddersheim Rheingrafenberg<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Pronounced and clear on the nose with fine minerality, intertwined<br />
with matured fruit, citrus notes and stone notes. Elegant<br />
and subtle with lively freshness and minerality on the<br />
palate. Calm and profound, simultaneously focused respectively<br />
and a salty defined acidity. 12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
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Nahe | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT BICKING & BICKING<br />
Hauptstrasse 33, 55595 Wallhausen<br />
T: +49 (6706) 279, weingut@bickingundbicking.de<br />
www.bickingundbicking.com<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–11 hrs and<br />
13–17 hrs, Saturdays 11–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Lukas Bicking<br />
Contact: Achim and Lukas Bicking<br />
Hectares: 10 ha<br />
Brothers Achim and Lukas Bicking made<br />
their first wines in the Zeller valley of<br />
the northern Pfalz. In 2016 they moved<br />
to the Nahe, into the Gräfenbach valley at the<br />
southern edge of the Hunsrück mountains.<br />
This is where they now cultivate ten hectares<br />
of vines, in tune with nature, on the diverse soil<br />
types of the Nahe. Their focus is on Riesling<br />
and Pinot-varieties. We are particularly fond<br />
of the layered and mineral Rieslings, combining<br />
structure and finesse while displaying<br />
skilled use of wood. The wines show character<br />
and make you want to take another sip. A<br />
great and strong addition to this Wineguide!<br />
91 2018 Wallhausen Pastorenberg Riesling tr.<br />
Powerful golden yellow with green reflections. First impression<br />
on the nose: as if standing in the middle of a wine cellar.<br />
A little yeasty, green apple and peach. On the palate, powerful<br />
with a balanced use of wood and notes of ripe kiwi. Definite<br />
ageing potential. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
88 2018 »Blanc de Blanc« trocken SB/PG/WB<br />
91 2018 »alte Reben« Riesling trocken<br />
Fresh and fruity scent of tangerine, lemon zest and redcurrant<br />
. On the palate, juicy apple is combined in a silky, delicate<br />
texture with polished acidity. A pleasantly long finish with<br />
pronounced fruitiness, a Riesling rich in nuance.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2015 Zell Riesling trocken<br />
Opulent fruit with recognisable exoticism, physalis, star fruit<br />
on the nose. On the palate there is beautiful, powerful acidity<br />
and harmonious sweetness. A filigree Riesling that will gain<br />
in complexity with maturity and will benefit from further<br />
years in bottle. 12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2018 »vom Schiefer« Riesling trocken<br />
Classic slate nose with exotic fruits of passion fruit and pineapple.<br />
On the tongue rather reserved and still closed. Compact<br />
and grippy, phenolic and also with slate-spicy minerality,<br />
shows good potential that will develop further.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
Initially closed nose with a bit of curry and fennel seed,<br />
then yellow fruit appears. Linear and clear on the palate<br />
with apricot, apple sauce and cloves. Light and buoyant as<br />
a whole with well-integrated acidity. Elegant, a lot of Riesling<br />
for the money. 12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
293
SCHLOSSGUT DIEL<br />
Burg Layen 16, 55452 Rümmelsheim<br />
T: +49 (6721) 96950, info@diel.eu<br />
www.diel.eu<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Thursdays 8–17 hrs,<br />
Fridays 8–14 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Caroline Diel and Christoph Friedrich<br />
Contact: The Diel family<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 180,000 (90 % white, 10 % red)/25 ha<br />
The description of the Riesling Grosses<br />
Gewächs from the Dorsheimer Goldloch<br />
reads like a staccato of breathlessly<br />
whispered superlatives: “finest juicy acidity,<br />
perfectly-ripened fruit, spice, minerality, layers<br />
upon layers, finesse.” How else would you<br />
frame what almost comes across as magic into<br />
words? Caroline Diel just manages to achieve<br />
that rare interplay of density, finesse and luminosity<br />
in her top wines and does so with seemingly<br />
effortless naturalness. We could just continue<br />
with this poetic appraisal. But let us be<br />
brief instead, a huge applause for this performance!<br />
96 2019 Dorsheim Goldloch Riesling GG<br />
Depth, substance, juicy yellow fruit, tangerine, sweet nectarine,<br />
peach and spicy minerality. Integrated with clear volume,<br />
deep grip, fine acidity and perfectly ripened fruit. Spicy<br />
minerality, complexity and finesse. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
95 2018 Dorsheim Burgberg Riesling GG<br />
Mineral spice, stone, light fruit and fennel seed scents. Evenly<br />
flowing on the palate, pervaded by finely-concentrated<br />
acidity and mineral grip, delicately-juicy with citrus zest and<br />
stone dust nuances. Fine tension into the long finish. Purist<br />
with depth. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2009 Dorsheim Goldloch Riesling extra brut<br />
111 months on lees. Subtly matured on the nose. Still recognisably<br />
Riesling with herbal spice and citric tones. Very dry<br />
on the palate, but without aggression, the fine mousse radiates<br />
freshness. Mineral foundation, subtle spicy finish. Extractive<br />
reserves! 12 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
95 2019 Dorsheim Pittermännchen<br />
Riesling Auslese<br />
Rich, clear yellow. Piquant spiciness on the nose, ripe fruit,<br />
peach, mango, papaya, plus a hint of light blossom honey.<br />
Balanced texture on the palate, fine phenolics, ripe but animating<br />
fruit. Densely-woven structure with length. Potential.<br />
8,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2019 »Eierfels« Dorsheim Riesling trocken<br />
93 2013 »Riesling Réserve« extra brut<br />
91 2019 Burg Layen Schlossberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
91 2019 Dorsheim Goldloch Riesling Kabinett<br />
90 2017 »Réserve« Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 Dorsheim Pittermännchen<br />
Riesling Kabinett<br />
90 2017 »Caroline« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
91 2019 Burg Layen Riesling trocken<br />
Mineral and finely-spiced on the nose. Light and red fruits,<br />
flowering meadow scents, herbs, stone dust and juice. Integrated,<br />
firm and flowing on the palate. Very balanced,<br />
fruity, with imminent acidity, freshness and delicate saltiness<br />
on the finish. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
294 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Nahe | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT DISIBODENBERG<br />
Am Disibodenberg, 55571 Odernheim<br />
T: +49 (6753) 124841, mail@klostermuehle-odernheim.de<br />
www.weingut-klostermuehle.de<br />
Cellar Door: Wednesdays through Saturdays 11–18 hrs,<br />
Sundays 9–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Thomas Zenz<br />
Contact: Uta Armbruster-Held<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 110,000 (75 % white, 25 % red)/21 ha<br />
Weingut Disibodenberg looks back<br />
on a few eventful months, just last<br />
year its name changed from Weingut<br />
Klostermühle, then there was investment in<br />
a modernised cellar, and Riesling now moves<br />
to centre stage as the purchase of the Kloster<br />
Disibodenberg site brings exquisite Riesling<br />
terroir into their portfolio. Cellar master<br />
Thomas Zenz knows just how to exploit that,<br />
especially with the nobly sweet Rieslings which<br />
complete an already multi-faceted range of<br />
wines with substantial Pinot in red and white –<br />
the Sekts are impressive as well. We are certain<br />
that much more will happen yet!<br />
91 2018 »Alte Reben« Odernheim<br />
Kapellenberg Grauburgunder trocken<br />
Fine smoke accompanies the powerful nose with quince, ripe<br />
pear and Mediterranean herbs. Massive Pinot from the warm<br />
year of 2018, which proudly and powerfully follows its course<br />
without looking to the right or left. 14,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2019 »Rosenzeit« Gewürztraminer Auslese<br />
Mango and rose scent in the bouquet with sultanas and Asian<br />
spices. Juicy and creamy on the palate, light viscosity, honey<br />
and some saffron. Generous without ever neglecting elegance.<br />
Mild with an attractive underlying acidity, harmonious<br />
and multi-layered. 8 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2019 Odernheim Kloster Disibodenberg<br />
Riesling Auslese<br />
Initially a little closed, the wine then shows a delicate nose of<br />
white flowers, lime zest and fresh grass clippings. On the palate<br />
an immensely juicy acidity that carries the sweetness<br />
perfectly and resonates for a long time. A delicious afternoon<br />
wine! 8 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2019 Odernheim Kloster Disibodenberg<br />
Riesling Spätlese<br />
Candied peach, apricot tart, honey and fine herbs on the<br />
nose. Sweet fruit on the palate, apricot and also mango, accompanied<br />
by ripe and present acidity, elegant, well-woven,<br />
fine astringency and mineral spiciness, nice flow.<br />
8,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2018 Odernheim Montfort Chardonnay tr.<br />
90 2018 Chardonnay & Weissburgunder<br />
Odernheim Montfort trocken<br />
89 2017 Odernheim Montfort »Pinot weiss« brut<br />
88 2019 »W19« Weissburgunder trocken<br />
90 2017 Odernheim Montfort<br />
Spätburgunder Rosé brut<br />
90 2018 »Alte Reben« Odernheim Montfort<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
90 2017 Odernheim Langenberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 »R19« Riesling trocken<br />
Ripe apricot on the fruity and fresh nose, floral notes and<br />
the fine scent of tomato leaf. Slender and straightforward<br />
on the palate, deliberately filigree with supple acidity and<br />
citrus fruit. Highly approachable. 11 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
295
WEINGUT DÖNNHOFF<br />
Bahnhofstrasse 11, 55585 Oberhausen an der Nahe<br />
T: +49 (6755) 263, weingut@doennhoff.com<br />
www.doennhoff.com<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Cornelius Dönnhoff<br />
Contact: Cornelius Dönnhoff<br />
Hectares: 28 ha<br />
The 2019-vintage must have found itself<br />
in ideal conditions in and around Niederhausen<br />
– and Cornelius Dönnhoff<br />
and his team converted these raw materials in<br />
just as ideal a fashion. We tasted Grosse<br />
Gewächse bursting with mineral extract; Kabinetts<br />
and Spätlesen that could easily be archetypes<br />
for their respective Prädikat category;<br />
nobly sweet wines full of precision and depth.<br />
So much density and brilliance, such disarming<br />
clarity and such exquisite balance – this is sensational<br />
– even for a winery at this level. We<br />
congratulate the Dönnhoffs on winning the<br />
“Wine Range of the Year” (also see page 18).<br />
98 2019 Schlossböckelheim Felsenberg<br />
Felsentürmchen Riesling GG<br />
Still closed nose, some citrus and quite intense rocky notes.<br />
Richly-textured with very fine phenolics, a texture without<br />
effort, ultra-fine acidity and not a moment of isolated sweetness,<br />
distinguished and enigmatic. 13 Vol.-%. €€€<br />
97 2019 Niederhausen Hermannshöhle<br />
Riesling GG<br />
Candied lemon peel, floral notes and flint. The palate is wellbalanced<br />
with great intensity and richness of fruit. Phenolic<br />
and mineral extract go hand in hand, delicate yet with a<br />
strong drive and finish. Magnificent! 13 Vol.-%.<br />
98 2019 »Einzelpfahl« Niederhausen<br />
Hermannshöhle Riesling Auslese<br />
Highly complex aromatics of sultana, candied lemon, candied<br />
ginger, ultra-fine botrytis, mineral rock notes, dried fig and<br />
date. Sweet and viscous on the palate, very well-balanced with<br />
a bracing acidity and tactile minerality. Great length, concentrated,<br />
but all about finesse on the finish. 8 Vol.-%.<br />
97 2019 Oberhausen Brücke Riesling Auslese<br />
Delicate, very fine and very clear botrytis, candied citrus fruit on<br />
the nose. On the palate there is almost painful density and a vibrating<br />
tension, viscous, but also substantial, highly condensed<br />
in mineral extract. Very compelling wine. 7,5 Vol.-%. €€€<br />
95 2019 Norheim Dellchen Riesling GG<br />
95 2019 Roxheim Höllenpfad im Mühlenberg<br />
Riesling GG<br />
93 2019 Bad Kreuznach Krötenpfuhl Riesling<br />
GG trocken<br />
91 2019 Bad Kreuznach Kahlenberg Riesling<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
91 2019 »Tonschiefer« Riesling trocken<br />
95 2019 Niederhausen Hermannshöhle<br />
Riesling Spätlese<br />
93 2019 Oberhausen Brücke Riesling Spätlese<br />
94 2019 Niederhausen Klamm<br />
Riesling Kabinett<br />
Slate spice on the nose, crushed rock and citrus. On the<br />
palate, very complete and yet a Kabinett with typicity. Rich<br />
complex layers on the palate, crunchy acidity, rather restrained<br />
sweetness, intense and linear finish. Very good potential!<br />
9 Vol.-%, €€<br />
296 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT FORSTER<br />
Nahe | WINERIES<br />
Burg-Layer-Strasse 20, 55452 Rümmelsheim<br />
T: +49 (6721) 45123, mail@weingutforster.de<br />
www.weingutforster.de<br />
Cellar Door: Thursdays and Fridays 14–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–15 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Johannes Forster<br />
Contact: Georg, Margit and Johannes Forster<br />
Hectares: 25 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
Weingut Forster has farmed its vineyards<br />
organically ever since 1994.<br />
“We make our own compost; this<br />
ensures great nutrition for the vines and also<br />
helps us to capture carbon in the soil,” the family<br />
reports. Ever since cellar master Johannes<br />
Forster started working with his parents Margit<br />
and Georg Forster, the wines have gained in<br />
precision. They stand out with their maturity,<br />
balance and calmness, they are harmonious<br />
and serene while also showing depth, like the<br />
Riesling Schlossberg. Very recently, they also<br />
extended their vinothek, or wine shop. Things<br />
are afoot in Rümmelsheim!<br />
91 2018 Burg Layen Schlossberg Riesling tr.<br />
Ripe concentrated fruit, sweet, crunchy apple and hints of<br />
dark spice. Ripe fruit continues on the palate but very wellcomplemented<br />
by chiselled, deep acidity, fine, lively juiciness<br />
and defined phenolics. Focused finish with fine traction.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2018 »vom Kies« Riesling trocken<br />
Warm notes on the nose of ripe yellow fruit, peach and apricot<br />
with fine layers of sweetness and caramel nuances.<br />
Slender on the palate with juicy acidity, sweet fruit, orange<br />
and lime zest. Well-paced with a fine grip on the finish.<br />
12 Vol.-%. cork, €<br />
90 2018 Burg Layen Johannisberg<br />
Frühburgunder trocken<br />
Deep, intense wine with mineral and vegetal hints and blackberry.<br />
Concentrated and powerful palate of dark spice, wild<br />
raspberry, floral nuances and herbs. Fine-grained generous<br />
tannin, very well-balanced and flowing with fine acidity.<br />
14 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2018 Riesling Auslese<br />
Rich, clear yellow. On the nose honey, dried apricot, sultana and<br />
spice. The palate offers grippy sweetness, balanced acidity,<br />
dates, honey, some caramel and roasted almonds. Nice structure<br />
and length, perfect with apple tart. Potential. 8,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 Riesling feinherb<br />
89 2018 »Reserve« Grauburgunder trocken<br />
88 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
88 2019 Scheurebe<br />
88 Weissburgunder trocken 2019<br />
88 2019 Spätburgunder Rosé trocken<br />
89 2018 »vom Quarzit«<br />
Frühburgunder trocken<br />
90 2018 »vom roten Schiefer«<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Fine spicy minerality, deep, clear, ripe red apple and yellow<br />
fruit. Powerful, juicy palate with mature fruit and mineral<br />
grip weaving in a fine, salty ripe acid structure.<br />
13 Vol.-%, cork, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
297
WEINGUT GROSSARTH<br />
Staudernheimer Strasse 8, 55571 Odernheim am Glan<br />
T: +49 (6755) 223, weingut@grossarth.de<br />
www.grossarth.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–12 hrs and<br />
13–18 hrs, Saturdays 9–12 hrs and by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Daniel Grossarth<br />
Contact: Daniel Grossarth<br />
Hectares: 8 ha<br />
Daniel Grossarth presented a small but<br />
convincing range of wines from the<br />
2018 and 2019 vintages for tasting.<br />
The juicy Riesling “S” immediately stands out,<br />
it really does express the terroir of the famous<br />
Kloster Disibodenberg site. But both the<br />
subtly savoury Weissburgunder from 2018<br />
and the off-dry “Sommercreation” of<br />
Gewürztraminer from 2019 show that this<br />
winemaker knows his stuff. Grossarth farms<br />
his eight hectares of vines in steep slopes on<br />
slate soils according to sustainability guidelines.<br />
88 2018 Weissburgunder trocken<br />
On the nose juicy tangerine, blossom, apple and citrus fruit<br />
with Reine Claude plum. Slender structure on the palate<br />
with harmonious balance and fine sweetness, juicy and<br />
straightforward with fine spice. Good varietal representative<br />
that not only works on its own but also would complement<br />
food. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
medium-bodied wine with a lightness in extract and density,<br />
but exhibits a Pinot flair. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
88 2019 »Sommercreation« feinherb<br />
Off-dry Gewürztraminer that knows exactly which notes to<br />
hit: Rose petals, lychee, papaya and ripe mango determine<br />
the aroma. Slender, clear and transparent on the palate,<br />
well-paced sweetness-acidity interplay, quite delicate, a nice<br />
aperitif. 12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
87 2019 »S« Grauburgunder<br />
trocken<br />
Besides pear with herbal notes, spices, some allspice and<br />
also floral hints on the nose. Spicy and juicy on the palate<br />
with ripe and spicy acidity and straightforward structure,<br />
good varietal typicity, not too complicated, solid companion<br />
for starters. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
87 2019 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Raspberry and wild strawberry on the nose with rose petals<br />
and red cherry. On the palate juicy and with clear fruit notes<br />
of cherries and wild strawberry. Appealing freshness in a<br />
89 2018 »S« Kloster Disibodenberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Ripe, exotic fruit of mango, papaya, also bottled peach<br />
and some gooseberry. Slender on the palate with ripe apricot<br />
and exotic saffron. Ripe, juicy acidity moves forward<br />
playfully. Finish shows the terroir of the Disibodenberg.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
298 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
GUT HERMANNSBERG<br />
Nahe | WINERIES<br />
Ehemalige Weinbaudomäne, 55585 Niederhausen<br />
T: +49 (6758) 92500, info@gut-hermannsberg.de<br />
www.gut-hermannsberg.de<br />
Cellar Door: March to October Tuesdays through Fridays<br />
10–18 hrs, Saturdays and Sundays 12–18 hrs, November<br />
to February Tuesdays through Saturdays 10–18 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Karsten Peter<br />
Contact: Achim Kirchner<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 150,000 (100 % white)/30 ha<br />
There are those who like to mock the<br />
term Grosses Gewächs and like to refer<br />
to it as “the wine that was released too<br />
early”. This argument becomes a little easier to<br />
follow when tasting the substance and depth,<br />
effortlessly put centre stage here, of the “Reserve”<br />
from the Schlossböckelheimer Kupfergrube,<br />
2015 vintage. It gives you an idea of<br />
how the enormous potential that for now still<br />
slumbers in the Grosse Gewächse from 2019<br />
and 2018 may unfold. We deliberately decided<br />
to score what we currently tasted – which is<br />
truly luminous. Winemaker Karsten Peter presented<br />
a series of magnificent Rieslings.<br />
94 2015 »Reserve« Schlossböckelheim<br />
Kupfergrube Riesling GG<br />
Deep, clear nose with ripe yellow fruit, fine minerality, dark<br />
spicy notes in the background with some caramel and a hint<br />
of petrol. On the palate substance and depth without any<br />
heaviness. Nuanced with fine, taut acidity and mineral saltiness.<br />
Great presence. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
93 2019 Schlossböckelheim Felsenberg<br />
Riesling GG<br />
Slightly reductive notes, followed by nutty notes, a touch lactic,<br />
but also intense crushed rock nuances. On the palate there is<br />
very finely-dissolved extract, homogeneous density in the sweetness-acidity<br />
balance with a slight predominance of sweetness.<br />
Completely coherent and full of potential. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2019 Niederhausen Steinberg Riesling GG<br />
Dried lemon peel and fresh citrus notes, ginger and a hint of<br />
almond. Fine texture on the palate, delicate phenolics, lively<br />
acidity, comparatively strong alcohol, sweetness well-suited<br />
to the body and acidity. Will become a rather nice amalgam<br />
with bottle age. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
94 2019 Niederhausen Steinberg<br />
Riesling Spätlese<br />
Nuanced, fine, mineral, complex. Some stone, subtle smoke<br />
nuances and a dash of apricot. Lovely volume on the palate<br />
and finely-integrated. Concentrated fruit, citrusy-juicy, with<br />
straight acidity. Weightless, dense, mineral, deep and to the<br />
point. 8,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
93 2018 Niederhausen Hermannsberg<br />
Riesling GG<br />
93 2018 Traisen Bastei Riesling GG<br />
92 2019 Altenbamberg Rotenberg Riesling GG<br />
92 2019 »Vom Vulkan« Schlossböckelheim<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
91 2019 »Steinterrassen« Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 »Vom Schiefer« Niederhausen<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
93 2019 Altenbamberg Rotenberg<br />
Riesling Spätlese<br />
90 2019 »7 Terroirs« Riesling trocken<br />
Fresh, light yellow fruit, vine peach and spicy minerality.<br />
Expressive, juicy, clear on the palate with a lively acid<br />
structure. Notes of orange, stone, fine herbs and some citrus<br />
zest. Great entry-level Riesling with terroir character,<br />
juice and finesse. 12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
299
WEINGUT IN DEN ZEHN MORGEN<br />
In den Zehn Morgen 41, 55559 Bretzenheim<br />
T: +49 (671) 48313040, info@indenzehnmorgen.de<br />
www.indenzehnmorgen.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–17 hrs<br />
and by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Stefan Schmidt<br />
Contact: Steffen Montigny, Stephan Pompejus<br />
Hectares: 15 ha<br />
Farming: in transition to organic<br />
A<br />
more than respectable debut in this<br />
Wineguide! It was only last year that<br />
Weingut S. J. Montigny in Bretzenheim<br />
turned into Weingut “In den zehn Morgen”<br />
which now looks after the former site porfolio<br />
of Weingut August E. Anheuser. The team surrounding<br />
Steffen Montigny is ambitious and<br />
full of purpose: As of 2019 all their vineyards<br />
are in conversion to organic viticulture. In the<br />
wines that were presented for tasting, it was<br />
not just the current single-site Rieslings that<br />
impressed us, but two wines really stood out,<br />
Kahlenberg which shows a sublime sense of<br />
calm, and Steinberg which is full of potential.<br />
93 2019 »Monopol« Bad Kreuznach Steinberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Tangerine, vine peach, clear mineral notes. On the palate, a<br />
drive and intense minerality, powerful, strong terpenic extract,<br />
seamlessly-integrated acidity. Still closed, but with<br />
good potential. 12 Vol.-%. cork<br />
92 2019 Bad Kreuznach Kahlenberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Herbaceous, grated lemon peel, pure and taut on the nose. A<br />
balanced calm palate, medium substance, ripe acidity, good<br />
concentration and length. Pleasantly dry and unpretentious.<br />
Finely-nuanced and slightly mineral on the finish.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork<br />
91 2019 Bad Kreuznach Rosenheck<br />
Riesling Kabinett feinherb<br />
Smoky-mineral and nuanced citrus fruit on the nose. Slightly<br />
carbonated, juicy and salty with fine acidity in a light to medium<br />
body. A well-balanced Kabinett, not too sweet, not too<br />
heavy, with great minerality. 10 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
91 2019 Bad Kreuznach Krötenpfuhl Riesling<br />
Orange marmalade, sultana, red apple, On the palate there is<br />
a dry, firm acidity and some phenolics and restrained sweetness.<br />
A puristically designed, strikingly pithy, single-vineyard<br />
Riesling with good ageing potential. 13 Vol.-%. cork<br />
90 2019 Bad Kreuznach Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 Bad Kreuznach Grauer<br />
Burgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 »Sand & Kalkstein« trocken<br />
88 2019 Bretzenheim Pastorei<br />
Chardonnay trocken<br />
90 2019 Bad Kreuznach »Pinot Noir Rosé«<br />
trocken<br />
Delicate pastel colour. Raspberry and apple blossom on<br />
the nose, juicy and sinewy on the palate. A touch of substance<br />
with fine acidity, pure unaffected freshness and a<br />
pointed, medium concentrated finish. Ideal with food.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
300 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
KORRELL<br />
Nahe | WINERIES<br />
Görzstrasse 7, 55545 Bad Kreuznach-Bosenheim<br />
T: +49 (671) 63630, weingut@korrell.com<br />
www.korrell.com<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays and<br />
Fridays 14–18 hrs, Saturdays 10–15 Uhr<br />
Winemaker: Martin Korrell<br />
Contact: Martin Korrell<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 180,000 (80 % white, 20 % red)/29 ha<br />
For years now Weingut Korrell has been<br />
amongst the most reliable addresses of<br />
the Nahe – whether entry-level or top<br />
wine, each and every bottle can be relied upon.<br />
And yet Martin Korrell constantly looks for<br />
elements he can fine-tune; longer skin contact,<br />
more time on fine lees, more intense selection<br />
during harvest and ground cover of clover in<br />
the vineyard. His efforts are paying off!<br />
The dry Riesling “Von den grossen Lagen”<br />
unites power and elegance, his “Étape XXII” is<br />
powerful and layered, the balanced Auslese<br />
disarms with its juiciness – with a long life<br />
ahead.<br />
93 2017 »Étape XXII« Riesling trocken<br />
Rich, clear yellow. On the nose hot stone, some smoke, ripe<br />
peach, mint and tangerine; sumptuous and animating. Firm<br />
on the palate, fine acidity, lots of texture, balanced, some<br />
fruit sweetness, juicy with a densely-woven structure. Long<br />
and powerful, still needs time. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
palate hazelnut re-emerges, acidity and creamy texture<br />
well-combined, nice structure and medium length. Pairs well<br />
with food. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
92 2019 Bad Kreuznach Paradies<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Clear, medium yellow. On the nose zesty citrus fruit, some<br />
passion fruit, lime juice and a hint of mint. On the palate<br />
crisp, ripe acidity, again citrus fruit, lots of tension and traction,<br />
somewhat rounded and a fine structure. Good length,<br />
wine with potential. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
91 2019 »Von den grossen Lagen«<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Clear, medium yellow. On the nose animating citrus fruit,<br />
pleasant ripeness, apricot, peach and red grapefruit. Ripe, invigorating<br />
acidity on the palate, somewhat phenolic, citrus<br />
fruit with a nice firm core. Tense minerality with elegance.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 »Steinmauer Burgunder-Cuvée«<br />
trocken PG/WB/CH<br />
Deep, clear yellow. On the nose, smoke, light fruits, some hazelnut,<br />
lemon balm, mint and a dash of grapefruit. On the<br />
92 2019 Bad Kreuznach Paradies<br />
Riesling Auslese<br />
Clear, rich yellow. Luscious and fresh on the nose with notes<br />
of mango, passion fruit, underlaid with dried fruits, apricot.<br />
Juicy on the palate, good balance between acidity and<br />
sweetness, gripping with a touch of candied lime peel. Good<br />
structure and length, needs time. 7,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
301
WEINGUT LINDENHOF<br />
MARTIN REIMANN<br />
Lindenhof, 55452 Windesheim<br />
T: +49 (6707) 330, info@weingutlindenhof.de<br />
www.weingutlindenhof.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Martin Reimann<br />
Contact: Martin Reimann<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 70,000 (80 % white, 20 % red)/10 ha<br />
Farming: in transition to organic<br />
Martin and Ulrike Reimann are the<br />
fourth generation of their family to<br />
farm the Lindenhof and its ten hectares<br />
of vines. Their focus is on Riesling, Chardonnay<br />
and Spätburgunder but there also is a<br />
little Frühburgunder and Gewürztraminer.<br />
The vineyards are in conversion to organic<br />
farming and will be certified in 2021. With the<br />
current range of wines he presented for tasting,<br />
Martin Reimann really lives up to his<br />
name as a Pinot-specialist – but he also knows<br />
how to handle Riesling, as the dense and tension-laden<br />
“Reserve” impressively proves. A<br />
strong performance!<br />
92 2019 »Reserve« Windesheim Fels<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Fruity aroma of stone fruit, apricot and peach, papaya, light<br />
flowers and a hint of saffron and wood spice. Lean and taut<br />
on the palate with tension and good ripe fruit extract, juicy<br />
acidity and minerality are interwoven. The fine sweetness<br />
provides charm. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
lovage. Broad on the palate with substance and volume,<br />
dense and tightly-woven with sweet extract and ripe acidity.<br />
The opulent version of Pinot. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
89 2019 Windesheim Weissburgunder trocken<br />
91 2017 »Reserve« Windesheim Saukopf<br />
Chardonnay trocken<br />
Beautiful Burgundian nose with fine smoke, melon, butternut<br />
squash, pear and toasted walnuts. Relaxed and supple on<br />
the palate, fine acid vein, elegantly-staged volume and richness,<br />
well-integrated wood, juicy preserved lemon. Long finish.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2018 »Reserve« Windesheim<br />
Sonnenmorgen Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Multi-layered nose with flowers, vanilla, apricot, apple, quince<br />
and smoky notes. Powerful with lots of volume and substance.<br />
Juicy and lots of spice, ripe acidity, supporting phenolic structure,<br />
harmoniously-balanced. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2017 »Reserve« Windesheim Rosenberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Powerful smell of wood ageing and new barrique which dominates<br />
the nose. Behind all this is red fruit and herbs and<br />
90 2019 Windesheim Fels Riesling trocken<br />
Ripe stone fruit shows on the nose, apricot and Reine<br />
Claude plum, fine apple, tomato leaf and also mineral<br />
hints. Juicy, spicy and with fruit sweetness on the palate,<br />
phenolic hints with gentle bitterness create a contrast,<br />
good extract and good potential. 12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
302 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT MEES<br />
Nahe | WINERIES<br />
Hackenheimer Strasse 21, 55545 Bad Kreuznach<br />
T: +49 (671) 73244, info@weingut-mees.de<br />
www.weingut-mees.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Roland and Lukas Mees<br />
Contact: Dagmar Mees<br />
Hectares: 15 ha<br />
Much is happening in Bad Kreuznach<br />
and on the Nahe – and Weingut<br />
Mees is part of it. Master Winemaker<br />
Roland Mees and his wife Dagmar have run<br />
this 15-hectare estate since 2003 and are now<br />
supported by their son Lukas. “The different<br />
soils of the Nahe region offer ideal conditions<br />
for growing the most diverse range of grape<br />
varieties and high quality wine,’’ the family<br />
reports. We tasted elegant, precise white wines<br />
and a full-bodied, spicy Spätburgunder.<br />
A wonderful addition to this Wineguide!<br />
90 2019 Bad Kreuznach Rosenberg<br />
Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
Shows the character of the grape variety on the nose already:<br />
ripe pear and nutty aromas, apple and herbs. Concentrated<br />
defined palate, not too lush, phenolic hints, dry and distinctive<br />
with a juicy acid structure, tart, juicy pear. Great with<br />
food. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
wood spice. On the palate, fine sweetness and ripe acidity<br />
come together in a powerful structure marked by wood ageing.<br />
Silky, spicy and peppery notes provide accents. A generous<br />
wine. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
88 2019 Bad Kreuznach Rosenberg<br />
Chardonnay trocken<br />
89 2019 Bad Kreuznach Paradies Riesling tr.<br />
Pretty aromatics of apple, candied citrus fruit, apricot and<br />
guava. Classic Riesling style with present, ripe acidity and<br />
fruity sweetness, slender structure. The mineral spiciness<br />
provides accents, shows varietal typicity and its provenance,<br />
juicy and precise. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 Bad Kreuznach Rosenberg<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
White flowers, apple and Mirabelle plum on the nose, flower<br />
meadow. Straightforward on the palate with juicy clear fruit,<br />
nice spiciness and texture, mild acidity structure, combines<br />
intensity and elegance in a rather slender form, phenolic<br />
tartness on the finish, ideal with food.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2018 Bad Kreuznach Paradies<br />
Spätburgunder Auslese trocken<br />
Sweet cherry on the nose, herbs, floral notes, bay leaf and<br />
90 2019 Bad Kreuznach Rosenberg<br />
Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Strong hints of gooseberry on the powerful nose, lychee<br />
and a little papaya come together well, fine malty spiciness.<br />
Has a lot to offer on the palate, full aromas, powerfully-structured<br />
with a lot of spice and elegance, juicy acidity,<br />
fine tart finish. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
303
WEINGUT MICHEL<br />
Kreuznacher Strasse 32, 55566 Bad Sobernheim<br />
T: +49 (6751) 99139, info@weingut-michel-nahe.de<br />
www.weingut-michel-nahe.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Peter Michel<br />
Contact: Peter Michel<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 280,000 (90 % white, 10 % red)/21 ha<br />
It was in 2015 that the then 24-year-old Peter<br />
Michel took over the reins at his parental<br />
estate. His father Thomas Michel still<br />
supports him in farming their 21 hectares of<br />
vines. Michel wants to reach “a balance between<br />
the values that have been passed along to<br />
him and a modern wine style.” It is an ambition<br />
he has fulfilled with the wines he presented for<br />
tasting. Especially the single-site wines, like the<br />
generous and mineral Riesling “S” from the<br />
Steinhardter Liebelen and the full-bodied, spicy<br />
Grauburgunder “S” from the Bad Sobernheimer<br />
Domberg from the 2018 vintage – both show<br />
great substance. A very successful performance!<br />
91 2018 »S« Steinhardt Liebelen<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Deep yellow in the glasss, ripe apricot, peach and apple, spicy<br />
hints, flowers, some smoke. On the palate, generous with<br />
ripe fruit and powerful texture. Strong and firm structure;<br />
supporting juicy acidity, dense and mineral. A lot of wine.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
filigree and uncomplicated interplay of sweetness and acidity,<br />
lively and buoyant with ripe fruit, berries. Fine tannin. Nice<br />
aperitif or to accompany peach tart. 12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
88 2019 Bad Sobernheim Domberg<br />
Rosé trocken<br />
90 2018 »S« Bad Sobernheim Domberg<br />
Grauburgunder trocken<br />
Powerful, sturdy Pinot Gris from a warm year, smelling of<br />
caramelised pear, quince, walnut and fine wood spice. Despite<br />
its substance and opulence, it shows a clear outline and<br />
also elegant texture, good density, ripe, spicy acidity, good<br />
potential. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2018 »S« Bad Sobernheim Domberg<br />
Chardonnay trocken<br />
Deep yellow in the glasss, the yellow fruit (apricot) is accompanied<br />
by fine smoky notes, also floral hints and ripe pineapple.<br />
On the palate there also is ripe yellow fruit, firm, powerful<br />
structure, shows juice and texture, good extract, ripe acidity<br />
and spiciness, good on its own and with food. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
88 2019 »vom Vulkangestein« Niederhausen<br />
Pfaffenstein Riesling feinherb<br />
Ripe yellow fruit on the nose, apricot shows. On the palate a<br />
89 2019 Bad Sobernheim Marbach<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Notions of red cherries, blueberries, chocolate, herbs and<br />
vanilla. Shows good concentration and power on the palate<br />
with red cherry again, the tannins are prominent and present,<br />
mocha and also tart notes on the finish. Great with<br />
meat. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
304 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Nahe | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT SASCHA MONTIGNY<br />
Weidenpfad 46, 55452 Laubenheim<br />
T: +49 (6704) 1468, sascha.montigny@montigny.de<br />
www.montigny.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 10–12 hrs and<br />
14–18 hrs, Saturdays 10–14 hrs and by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Sascha Montigny<br />
Contact: Sascha Montigny<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 55.000 (50 % white, 50 % red)/8 ha<br />
Last year, we put the focus of our tasting<br />
onto Sascha Montigny’s exquisite red<br />
Pinots – this year the Pinots have to<br />
share the centre stage with his Rieslings. We<br />
were really impressed with the powerful<br />
Laubenheimer Krone site Riesling, and its easily<br />
equal very harmonious counterpart from<br />
the Laubenheimer Karthäuser site. Furthermore,<br />
we simply must mention that Montigny<br />
also has a real talent for Sekt, his “Blanc de<br />
Noir” from the 2014 vintage invariably lifts<br />
the mood – just another feather in his cap!<br />
92 2019 Laubenheim Krone Riesling trocken<br />
Still closed, hints of pineapple, balsamic-mineral notes, nectarine.<br />
Poised and wide on the palate, with fine phenolic and<br />
terpene-spicy extract, well-integrated, firm acidity, delicate<br />
mineral hue. Riesling with texture and volume.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2018 Laubenheim Krone Spätburgunder tr.<br />
Slightly smoky, elderberry, herbs, minty tones, thyme oil and<br />
sweet almond. Slightly dry but ripe tannin, underlying suppleness,<br />
good density, rather ripe acidity, but still completely<br />
in balance due to the phenolics and juiciness.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2018 Laubenheim Krone Frühburgunder tr.<br />
Small red berries, buttery notes and camphor. On the palate<br />
there is fine-grained, ripe tannin, very natural in proportions<br />
and fruit. Ripe acidity, a hint of the typical vintage creaminess.<br />
Great elegance. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2018 »Cuvée Mariage« Laubenheim Krone<br />
trocken PN/SL/DU<br />
Dark chocolate, elderberry, crème de cassis. On the palate<br />
there is taut tannin, quite dry and underlying juiciness. Above<br />
all a construction designed for storability, powerful alcohol<br />
but covered by extract with vibrant fruit on the finish.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2014 »Blanc de Noir« Pinot Noir brut<br />
90 2019 Laubenheim Karthäuser<br />
Grauburgunder trocken<br />
89 2016 Riesling brut<br />
89 2019 Laubenheim Weissburgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 Laubenheim Riesling trocken<br />
90 2018 »R« Laubenheim Krone<br />
St. Laurent trocken<br />
90 2018 Merlot & St. Laurent<br />
Laubenheim trocken<br />
92 2019 Laubenheim Karthäuser<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Lemon and orange on the nose, with smoky mineral undertones.<br />
Tight palate, dense and compact, lots of substance,<br />
great freshness, mineral tension, but also sweet fruit on<br />
the finish. A very complete, well-balanced single-vineyard<br />
Riesling. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
305
REICHSGRAF VON PLETTENBERG<br />
Im Wingert 2, 55545 Bad Kreuznach<br />
T: +49 (671) 2251, falk@weingutplettenberg.de<br />
www.weingutplettenberg.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Falk Albrecht Reichsgraf von Plettenberg<br />
Contact: Falk Albrecht Reichsgraf von Plettenberg<br />
Hectares: 20 ha<br />
Falk Albrecht Reichsgraf von Plettenberg<br />
is a Geisenheim graduate and the<br />
fourth generation of his family to run<br />
the family Weingut. It was in 1911 that his<br />
grandfather married a Puricelli – this is how<br />
the connection was made between old Westphalian<br />
nobility and a rich family of industrialists<br />
with substantial vineayard holdings on<br />
the Nahe. Today’s wines are made with freshness<br />
and approachability in mind. We liked the<br />
serene Riesling from the Kreuznacher Narrenkappe<br />
just a touch more than the equally impressive<br />
dry Hinkelstein Auslese.<br />
90 2019 Bad Kreuznach Hinkelstein<br />
Riesling Auslese trocken<br />
Sumptuous fruit on the nose of apricot, peach and red plum.<br />
On the palate downright massive, but not overshooting the<br />
mark in alcohol, taut acidity, good substance and mineral undertones.<br />
A layer of viscosity in the long, fruit-driven finish.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
length, definitely very nice with a Bundt cake.<br />
9 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
88 2019 »Blanc de Noir«<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 Winzenheim Rosenheck<br />
Grauburgunder Spätlese trocken<br />
A nutty varietal scent, sweet chestnut and some yeasty<br />
notes. Slenderly-structured on the palate, substantial, even<br />
with slight astringency on a smooth and fairly sweet background.<br />
Slightly mineral. Medium density, can develop well.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
88 2019 Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Closed, still some yeasty notes and everlasting flower nuances.<br />
Juicy on the palate, silky, ripe acidity, well-balanced<br />
and harmonious in a medium to light weight range with<br />
slight sweetness on the finish. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 Winzenheim Rosenheck<br />
Gewürztraminer Auslese<br />
Clear, medium yellow. On the nose rose petals, sultanas and<br />
dried lemon peel. On the palate rose water, mild acidity, nice<br />
flow, underlined with ripe citrus fruits. Good structure and<br />
90 2018 Bad Kreuznach Narrenkappe<br />
Riesling Spätlese trocken<br />
Restrained aroma, some herbs, lime, yeast and peach<br />
notes. On the palate there is good texture, silky phenolics<br />
on a fresh, juicy base with delicate fruit sweetness. A very<br />
well-balanced, finely-structured single-vineyard Riesling,<br />
subtly mineral-tinged. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
306 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
POSS<br />
Nahe | WINERIES<br />
Goldgrube 20–22, 55452 Windesheim<br />
T: +49 (6707) 342, info@weingut-poss.de<br />
www.weingut-poss.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Saturdays 10– 17 hrs<br />
and by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Karl-Hans Poss<br />
Contact: Karl-Hans and Harald Poss<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 70,000 (90 % white, 10 % red)/13 ha<br />
The Poss family have dedicated themselves<br />
whole-heartedly to Pinot-varieties.<br />
Thus they craft wines that come<br />
with harmony and depth. No matter whether<br />
they come in a classic style, supported by beautiful<br />
phenolics like the single-site wines, or<br />
whether there is just a touch of something classic<br />
in the experimental and skin-fermented<br />
“vogelfrei” series. What we like in particular<br />
about the wines in this latter series is that they<br />
do not frighten off those who prefer more conventional<br />
wines, harmony is always a given.<br />
Quite apart from that, the wines are totally<br />
versatile with food.<br />
92 2016 Windesheim Fels<br />
Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
Light golden appearance. Ripe and complex aromas, berries<br />
with hints of old-school Ruländer. On the palate, supple,<br />
plump, a round Spätlese body with a little bit of wood, plus<br />
mealy phenolics. Shows the charming side of the variety with<br />
an extra pinch of tension. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2018 Windesheim Römerberg<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Fresh aroma of salty liquorice, crunchy pear, but also Pinot<br />
berries. On the palate silky and poised, mildly flowing with<br />
ripe yet firm acidity. A charming Pinot Blanc full of texture<br />
and pronounced fruitiness, great length. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2018 »vogelfrei« Grauer Burgunder<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
A black tea colour with brownish undertones. Fragrant, quite<br />
Pinot berry-like with hints of rosehip. Mealy phenolics in high<br />
quantity, drive, also a creamy foundation, mild acidity,<br />
poised, ripe and round and a very good palate structure. Gripping<br />
tannic finish. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2016 »S« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Intensely chocolatey on the nose, some blackberry and a hint<br />
of cinnamon. Creamy base, fine-grained tannins, quite round<br />
and juicy, powerful alcohol but very well covered by extract<br />
with mild acidity, full and long. Showing iinitial hints of evolution<br />
but also with further potential. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2019 »vogelfrei« Grauer Burgunder<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
91 2016 »Euphoros« Chardonnay trocken<br />
90 2019 »vogelfrei« Weissburgunder<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
88 2019 Weissburgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
Herbaceous and spicy on the nose, but also candied pineapple.<br />
Almost slender on the palate, with lots of juiciness,<br />
delicate and vital acidity. An elegant, light-hearted Pinot<br />
Gris with a delicate mineral hue. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
307
WEINGUT PRINZ SALM<br />
Schlossstrasse 3, 55595 Wallhausen<br />
T: +49 (6706) 944411, weingut@prinzsalm.de<br />
www.prinzsalm.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–17 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 12–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Felix Prinz zu Salm-Salm<br />
Contact: Felix Prinz zu Salm-Salm<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 100,000 (90 % white, 10 % red)/18 ha<br />
Felix Prinz zu Salm-Salm is the 32nd generation<br />
of his family to run Weingut<br />
Prinz Salm – it is the oldest winery in<br />
Germany which has remained in continuous<br />
ownership of the same family. Those who expect<br />
that this translates into hidebound tradtitions<br />
are entirely mistaken. The estate with its<br />
18 hectares of best sites between Wallhausen,<br />
Dalberg and Bingen presents a wonderfully<br />
alert range of excellent Rieslings – from complex<br />
and profound Grosse Gewächs, via a<br />
fruity and carefree Kabinett all the way to the<br />
finely-chiseled and harmonious sweet wines.<br />
93 2017 Wallhausen Johannisberg<br />
Riesling GG<br />
Dark spicy and yellow-fruited, stone dust, some caramel nuances.<br />
Ripe citrus and yellow fruit on the palate, juicy acidity,<br />
tart and herbal hints, spicy minerality. Quietly powerful with<br />
a significant length offering more spice, juicy fruit and rock<br />
dust. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork<br />
93 2017 Bingen Scharlachberg Riesling GG<br />
Dark spicy minerality, yellow fruit, orange zest. Flowing and<br />
silky on the palate. Light yet firm and complex, stone dust,<br />
dark tones, straight acidity. Juicy lemon, ripe yellow fruit,<br />
dark spice and salty-herbal minerality on the finish.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2019 Roxheim Berg Riesling Spätlese<br />
Fragrant, pale wine with a delicate nose of black and redcurrants<br />
and white flowers. On the palate, very harmonious balance<br />
between sweetness and acidity, incredibly juicy and appetising,<br />
long, fresh finish, great with food or on its own!<br />
8 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2019 Bingen Scharlachberg<br />
Riesling Auslese<br />
Aromatics of honeycomb, light caramel, candied almonds,<br />
ripe peach, with hints of ginger developing. Good concentration<br />
on the palate, the sweetness is elegantly accompanied<br />
by balanced acidity, mineral, generous, with texture and<br />
charm. 7 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2017 Dalberg Ritterhölle Riesling<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
91 2017 Wallhausen Felseneck Riesling GG<br />
91 2017 Bingen Kirchberg Riesling GG<br />
90 2019 »Grünschiefer« Riesling trocken<br />
90 2017 Sommerloch Steinrossel Riesling<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
90 2019 »vom roten Schiefer«<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 Wallhausen Felseneck<br />
Riesling Kabinett<br />
92 2019 Bingen Riesling trocken<br />
Fragrant-floral concentration on the nose alongside nuances<br />
of stony coolness with notes of iron and quartzite.<br />
Lean and taut on the palate with a focused, fine acidity, citrus<br />
and herbal spice, mineral and long. 12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
308 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Nahe | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT JOH. BAPT. SCHÄFER<br />
Burg Layen 8, 55452 Rümmelsheim<br />
T: +49 (6721) 43552, schaefer@jbs-wein.de<br />
www.jbs-wein.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Sebastian Schäfer<br />
Contact: Sebastian Schäfer<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 60,000 (100 % white)/8 ha<br />
We can find much to praise in Sebastian<br />
Schäfer’s successful 2019 vintage.<br />
There is the layered Grosses<br />
Gewächs from the Goldloch site, showing<br />
ever-new facets with a little more breath of fresh<br />
air. Then there is the Riesling from the Schlossberg<br />
with its compelling nature and minerality;<br />
or the light-footed and simultaneously serious<br />
Kabinett from the Pittermännchen site which<br />
draws you in rather quickly. The village Rieslings<br />
from Dorsheim and Rümmelsheim know just<br />
how to convince you, just as the GG does from<br />
the Pittermännchen which still is entirely youthful.<br />
In this case, patience is a real virtue.<br />
93 2019 Dorsheim Goldloch Riesling GG<br />
Multi-layered bouquet with stone fruit, fine apricot, redcurrant<br />
, apple, cumin and some citrus fruit. Juicy acidity on the<br />
palate with fine phenolic astringency, herbal, tangerine and<br />
grapefruit notes. Powerful and clearly contoured, with a fine<br />
grip and finish. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
change of pace from suppleness to drive, offering spice, minerality<br />
and dynamic concentration. Intense yet light on its<br />
feet, serious and yet playful. Superb. 8 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2019 »Kieselstein« Rümmelsheim<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
93 2019 Burg Layen Schlossberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Primary aromatics of Mirabelle and lemon balm, stony and<br />
floral notes with papaya in the background. On the palate,<br />
full-bodied with spice and multi-layered ripe fruit. Behind the<br />
classic Riesling expression there is beautiful minerality and<br />
grippy tension. Put it away, this is going to be magnificent.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2019 Dorsheim Pittermännchen<br />
Riesling GG<br />
Yeasty-spicy on the nose, notes of large wooden barrels, still<br />
very closed. On the palate there is concise density, wide and<br />
broad on the midpalate, ripe acidity, a little carbon dioxide,<br />
terpenic, quite dry finish. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2019 Dorsheim Pittermännchen<br />
Riesling Kabinett<br />
Beautiful nose of blossom, freshly grated citrus zest, peach,<br />
apricot and redcurrant . On the palate there is a perfect<br />
90 2019 Dorsheim Riesling trocken<br />
Peach aromatics finely interwoven with a light smoky<br />
woody note. Spicy accentuated palate with lively acidity.<br />
An honest wine of impressive balance and concentration,<br />
exhibiting craftsmanship at a high level. This is how you do<br />
it in the Nahe. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
309
WEINGUT SCHÄFER-FRÖHLICH<br />
Schulstrasse 6, 55595 Bockenau<br />
T: +49 (6758) 6521, info@weingut-schaefer-froehlich.de<br />
www.weingut-schaefer-froehlich.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Tim Fröhlich<br />
Contact: The Fröhlich family<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 120,000 (99 % white, 1 % red)/20 ha<br />
Tim Fröhlich presented an exquisite<br />
range of wines from the 2019 vintage.<br />
Of course, the vintage itself played into<br />
his hands, but we musn’t forget that Fröhlich<br />
now uses the aromas of spontaneous ferments,<br />
once so typical and prominent in all his wines,<br />
with much more restraint. We liked this so<br />
much that we awarded him his fifth star. Quite<br />
apart from that, the estate has not only shone<br />
with its Grosse Gewächse for a long time, no,<br />
the residually and nobly sweet wines show the<br />
same class, while the mid-range wines deliver<br />
exquisitely at very fair prices.<br />
96 2019 Schlossböckelheim Kupfergrube<br />
Riesling GG<br />
Complex mineral fragrance, crushed rock with iodine undertones<br />
and rosehip, youthfully closed with varietal spiciness.<br />
On the palate there is homogeneous presence, very fine phenolics<br />
in a multi-layered staggered body, striking acid arc.<br />
Dense and gripping, immensely young. 12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
95 2019 Bockenau Felseneck Riesling GG<br />
Balsamic spontaneous fermentation spice, citrus and floral<br />
notes, still little opening. Dense and immediately tactile and<br />
mineral on the palate, hard as a rock in its texture, a monolith<br />
that will surely mature into great spiciness. The finish is delicately<br />
sweet. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
95 2019 Schlossböckelheim Felsenberg<br />
Riesling GG<br />
Floral, spicy terpene, already dense and promising in the<br />
bouquet. Then on the palate there is sweetly underpinned<br />
substance, with striking acidity and high concentration, almost<br />
chewable. The tactile-mineral part of the extract dominates<br />
on the finish. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
94 2019 »Goldkapsel« Bockenau Felseneck<br />
Riesling Spätlese<br />
Nuanced, clear, deep and with delicately spicy, stony minerality<br />
and elegant fruit. Chiselled acid structure meets delicate<br />
fruit sweetness. Clear and flowing with the cool minerality<br />
of a mountain stream. Energetic, finely-concentrated<br />
and long on the finish. 8 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
94 2019 Monzingen Halenberg Riesling GG<br />
94 2019 Bockenau Stromberg Riesling GG<br />
93 2019 Monzingen Frühlingsplätzchen<br />
Riesling GG<br />
91 2019 »Vulkangestein« Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 »S« Weissburgunder trocken<br />
92 2019 Bockenau Felseneck Riesling Spätlese<br />
90 2019 Bockenau Felseneck Riesling Kabinett<br />
92 2019 »Schiefergestein« Riesling trocken<br />
A tone of spontaneous fermentation, plus nuanced slate<br />
minerality, bright fruit. Densely interwoven on the palate,<br />
with mineral spice. Light stone fruit, fresh apple, orange<br />
zest. On the finish tangy hints, citric juiciness and salty<br />
minerality. 12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
310 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Nahe | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT K.H. SCHNEIDER<br />
Meddersheimer Strasse 29, 55566 Bad Sobernheim<br />
T: +49 (6751) 2505, info@weingut-schneider.com<br />
www.weingut-schneider.com<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 10–12 hrs and<br />
13–18 hrs, Saturdays 10–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Andi Schneider<br />
Contact: Andi Schneider<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 70,000 (90 % white, 10 % red)/15 ha<br />
The evolution of Weingut K.H. Schneider<br />
is remarkable. With its current<br />
range of wines it manages to cement its<br />
position amongst the most ambitious estates<br />
on the Nahe. Christoph and Andi Schneider,<br />
the latter responsible for winemaking, run this<br />
1956-founded estate today, alongside thier<br />
parents Marion and Bernd. They farm 15 hectares<br />
of vineyards, amongst them sites in<br />
Schlossböckelheim which were newly acquired<br />
over the past years. These mineral and<br />
well-proportioned Rieslings are amazing calling<br />
cards for the Nahe!<br />
91 2019 Schlossböckelheim Königsfels<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Beautiful yellow fruit in the glass, Mirabelle, herbs and orchard,<br />
with fine smoke, banana and wet stone. Juicy and<br />
creamy on the palate. The acidity is well-integrated with a<br />
smoky, mineral foundation, long length. Good potential.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2019 Bad Sobernheim Domberg Riesling tr.<br />
Concentrated nose, but needs time. Yellow fruit like Mirabelle,<br />
also floral hints, spicy and herbal. Slightly smoky and<br />
warm stone. On the palate it starts out with creaminess and<br />
juice, good density, extract and tension. Good balance, with<br />
mineral foundations. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2017 Schlossböckelheim Felsenberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Strong notes of spontaneous fermentation on the nose,<br />
malty, some hops, spice and caraway, stone fruit. On the palate<br />
there is vibrant acidity accompanied by fine sweetness;<br />
good extract, athletically-built and with lovely balance. Has<br />
potential. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2019 Schlossböckelheim Felsenberg<br />
Riesling Auslese<br />
Rich, medium yellow. On the nose dried fruits, including apricot<br />
and fig and candied citrus fruit. Lots of texture on the palate of<br />
rich, ripe citrus fruit, invigorating acidity, spicy and dense. Offers<br />
both power and potential. Lay down. 8,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2019 »Roter Tonschiefer« Bad Sobernheim<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 Schlossböckelheim Felsenberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 »Vulkanstein« Schlossböckelheim<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 Bad Sobernheim Marbach Riesling tr.<br />
89 2019 Bad Sobernheim Sauvignon Blanc tr.<br />
89 2019 Bad Sobernheim Riesling Kabinett<br />
88 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 Bad Sobernheim Marbach<br />
Riesling Spätlese<br />
Clear, medium yellow. On the nose ripe, exotic fruits, mango<br />
and passion fruit, orange zest and fresh lemon balm. On<br />
the palate piquant acidity, noticeable sweetness,<br />
mouth-watering ripe peach and lime. Still young but with<br />
good structure, juicy and animating. 8,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
311
SM SEKTMANUFAKTUR<br />
Grosse Heide 2, 55444 Waldlaubersheim<br />
T: +49 (6707) 9141820<br />
info@sm-sektmanufaktur.de<br />
sm-sektmanufaktur.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Kai Maschtschenko and Matthias Schreml<br />
Contact: Kai Maschtschenko and Matthias Schreml<br />
We have bundled together more<br />
than 40 years of Sekt know-how,’’<br />
report Kai Maschtschenko and<br />
Matthias Schreml who run their ‘SektManufaktur’<br />
(sparkling wine manufacture) in Waldlaubersheim,<br />
the only Sekthaus on the Nahe<br />
that dedicates itself exclusively to traditional<br />
method sparkling wine. Of course the pair<br />
also offers their Sektmaking services to others,<br />
after all, Maschtschenko used to work for<br />
Raumland’s mobile Sekt-bottling unit. His experience<br />
is evident in the Sekts they presented,<br />
especially in the very complex “Grand Cuvée<br />
Reserve”.<br />
90 2016 »Grande Cuvée Reserve« brut nature<br />
Deep, finely complex nose, subtle fruit, smoky mineral notes<br />
and stone dust. On the palate light, juicy-sweet fruit, fine wood<br />
notes, fresh acidity, fine spice and light bitter notes of citrus<br />
zest. Unembellished and also with depth. 12,5 Vol.-%. DIAM, €€€<br />
89 NV Chardonnay brut<br />
Round, fine, somewhat powdery stone dust, a little smoke and<br />
light hint of peach on the nose. Fresh on the palate with lively<br />
sweetness and fine mousse. Nuances of red apple, a little<br />
stone fruit, orange blossom and zest emerge too on the palate.<br />
Fine acidic structure, well-balanced. 12,5 Vol.-%. DIAM, €€<br />
88 NV Pinot Meunier brut<br />
Bright fruit, fine spice and stone dust on the nose, plus<br />
blossom scents and a hint of caraway. Complex on the palate,<br />
slightly creamy, yet fresh and juicy. Tart, herbal notes,<br />
discreet sweetness, citrus fruit, some stone fruit, fine bitter<br />
tones and juiciness into the finish.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. DIAM, €€<br />
88 NV Pinot Blanc brut<br />
Rather restrained fragrance with blossom scents, light fruit<br />
and also a hint of spice. On the palate there is fine mousse,<br />
creamy hints, but nothing opulent. Fine fruit sweetness, tart<br />
herbs, juiciness and smooth, discreet acidity. Balanced and<br />
coherent. 12,5 Vol.-%. DIAM, €€<br />
89 »Pinot Blanc de Noir« brut NV<br />
Rich nose with floral scents followed by yellow fruit, apricot<br />
and also some stone dust. Creamy on the palate, ripe<br />
yellow fruit and notes of bitter orange. Taut mousse, moderate<br />
acidity that works itself in evenly. A rounded wine<br />
with fine fruit and spiciness. 12,5 Vol.-%, DIAM, €€<br />
312 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT ST. MEINHARD<br />
Nahe | WINERIES<br />
Kirchstrasse 13, 55545 Bad Kreuznach<br />
T: +49 (671) 43030, info@weingut-meinhard.de<br />
www.weingut-meinhard.de<br />
Cellar Door: Saturdays 10–13 hrs and by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Steffen Meinhard and Matthias Schabler<br />
Contact: Steffen Meinhard<br />
Hectares: 8 ha<br />
Weingut Meinhard was founded in<br />
1885 and is located in Winzenheim<br />
near Bad Kreuznach. It has been run<br />
by Steffen Meinhard from 1990 onwards and he<br />
is now supported by his nephew Matthias Schabler<br />
in vineyards and cellar – who will eventually<br />
take over the estate. Meinhard’s son David has<br />
taken over the estate-owned Weinstube, which<br />
serves the estate’s wines alongside regional cuisine.<br />
The wines they offer are the juicy and<br />
fine-fruited Rieslings – made in a very clean style,<br />
showing the true character of the varieties and<br />
the Pinots also turn out well here, and all of them<br />
come at rather user-friendly prices!<br />
90 2019 »S« Winzenheim Berg<br />
Grauburgunder trocken<br />
Compact nose with ripe pear, apple and quince compote as<br />
well as fine wood spice. Powerful and firmly-built on the palate<br />
and with nice spiciness, juice, texture as well as slight<br />
piquancy and saltiness. A well-proportioned Pinot Gris with<br />
substance and charm. Ideal with food. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2013 »Triplex« brut<br />
Uniform on the nose with some yellow fruit, pear, quince and<br />
a hint of vegetable notes. Calm and yet animating. Round,<br />
somewhat compact, yet juicy on the palate, the acidity<br />
weaves itself discreetly into the fruit, complemented by tart<br />
hints. 12 Vol.-%. DIAM, €€<br />
89 2019 »S« Bretzenheim Pastorei<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Spicy and floral notes open on the nose, citrus fruit, apple<br />
and stone fruit. On the palate, notes of citrus fruit again, underpinned<br />
by fine sweetness, present and ripe acidity that<br />
provides good balance. Salty nuances add to this complex<br />
and charming wine. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2015 »R« Bretzenheim Pastorei<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Wood spice, mint, red fruit like cherry and wild berries mingle<br />
on the nose, rosehip also wants to join in. Strong stature on<br />
the palate with prominent tannins that will still increase, the<br />
alcohol is at its sweet spot, juicy fruit, good potential.<br />
14 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 Winzenheim Honigberg<br />
Chardonnay trocken<br />
89 2019 »S« Winzenheim Berg<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
88 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
88 2019 Weissburgunder trocken<br />
88 2019 Grauburgunder trocken<br />
89 2017 »Pinot« brut<br />
89 2016 »S« Bretzenheim Pastorei<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
90 2019 »Beste Lagen S« Riesling trocken<br />
Concentrated, fragrant with ripe peach, apple, citrus fruit,<br />
guava and leafy greens. Slender and taut on the palate<br />
with good extract. Juicy with texture and appropriate<br />
freshness, fine yellow fruit and spice; Riesling with expression<br />
and class. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
313
WEINGUT KARL STEIN<br />
Auf dem Stiel 12, 55585 Oberhausen<br />
T: +49 (6755) 242, info@steinwein.de<br />
www.steinwein.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Edith and Rainer Schneider<br />
Contact: Edith and Rainer Schneider<br />
Hectares: 13 ha<br />
Weingut Karl Stein was founded in<br />
1801 and is run today by Edith<br />
and Rainer Schneider. Riesling<br />
dominates and represents 85% of plantings,<br />
with a third of their 13 hectares of vineyards<br />
situated on steep sites with old vines. Their<br />
best sites include Niederhäuser Klamm and<br />
Felsensteyer as well as Oberhäuser Leistenberg,<br />
Kieselberg and Felsenberg. We were really<br />
impressed by this very homogenous range<br />
of wines, especially by the concentrated and<br />
mineral Riesling Felstensteyer. In the future,<br />
there will also be a redoubled focus on Sekt.<br />
Things are happening in Oberhausen!<br />
91 2019 Niederhausen Felsensteyer<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Fragrant aromatics of ripe peach and papaya, mineral notes,<br />
slightly ethereal and red apple. Powerful on the palate with a<br />
juicy body and good substance. Dense and rich in extract, yet<br />
velvety, rather mild acidity, permeated by minerality, young.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
generous in its portions, the rather mild acidity binds well,<br />
mellow phenolics on the mid palate. Mineral finesse on the<br />
finish. 8 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2017 »Cuvee Stein« brut<br />
89 2019 »Blitz« Silvaner trocken<br />
Ripe apple and herbs show on the nose, also pear, tart pear<br />
peel and some rosehip. On the palate there is striking tartness<br />
and juicy acidity in a lean and compact body. Clear, juicy<br />
apple notes, slightly mealy phenolics, great with food!<br />
12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
91 2019 Niederhausen Klamm<br />
Riesling Spätlese<br />
Fine Mirabelle plum and apricot, caramel and some baked<br />
apple. Sightly viscous palate, creamy and sweet, concentrated<br />
juice with apricot, apple and well-balanced salted caramel.<br />
Ripe acidity, good balance and fine, smooth flow. Mineral,<br />
charming. 8 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2019 Niederhausen Felsensteyer<br />
Riesling Auslese<br />
Fine nose with tangerine and nectarine, some mint and mineral<br />
hints, warm stone. Good concentration on the palate,<br />
89 2019 »#stayhome« Riesling trocken<br />
Apple and a little leafy green are joined by yellow-fruited<br />
and spicy notes. Sweet fruit and ripe acidity open up in interplay<br />
on the palate. A slender and straightforward construction,<br />
offers a lot of drinking pleasure and shows the<br />
typicity and advantages of the grape variety in the entry-level<br />
range. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
314 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
UDO WEBER<br />
Nahe | WINERIES<br />
Soonwaldstrasse 41, 55569 Monzingen<br />
T: +49 (6751) 3278, info@weingut-udo-weber.de<br />
www.weingut-udo-weber.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Sundays 8–12.30 hrs<br />
and 13.30–19 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Laura and Udo Weber<br />
Contact: Sabine Weber<br />
Hectares: 13 ha<br />
Laura Weber and her father Udo have presented<br />
a many-facetted, versatile range<br />
of wines: “Duo Surprise No.1”, for instance,<br />
a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and<br />
Scheurebe which is an explosive attack of fruit<br />
onto the tastebuds. Then there are well-balanced<br />
and layered Rieslings from the top sites<br />
of Halenberg and Frühlingsplätzchen, which<br />
really underscore both style and ambition.<br />
Their Roter Riesling “Bienengärtchen” comes<br />
across as mineral and elemental. Impressive!<br />
We happily anticipate whatever this creative<br />
daughter-father duo come up with next!<br />
91 2018 Monzingen Frühlingsplätzchen<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
The bouquet is not focused on primary fruit, smoky notes<br />
with apple in the background plus ripe stone fruit and mineral<br />
hints. Juicy on the palate with ripe, delicate acidity, fruity<br />
extract, good balance and medium complexity. Good length,<br />
potential. Will mature well. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
the palate, sweetness and acidity in balance, somewhat phenolic<br />
with grape juice, apricot and spices. Beautiful dancing<br />
elegance. Potential. 9 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2018 Monzingen Frühlingsplätzchen<br />
Chardonnay trocken<br />
91 2019 »Bienengärtchen« Monzingen<br />
Rosenberg Roter Riesling trocken<br />
Red apple on the nose followed by grapefruit, apricot, also<br />
fine tart notes, blossoms and a hint of scented rose. Lots of<br />
substance on the palate, depicts this old vineyard in an unembellished<br />
and original fashion. Juicy, tart and salty minerality.<br />
14 Vol.-%. cork<br />
91 2018 »Grosser Genuss« Monzingen<br />
Halenberg Riesling trocken<br />
Herbaceous notes to ripe fruit, peach, apricot and apple, also<br />
fine smoke and flint. Compact and tightly-structured on the palate,<br />
good extract, fine phenolics, ripe acidity, salty, notes of apple<br />
and a mineral foundation. Good potential. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork<br />
91 2019 Monzingen Frühlingsplätzchen<br />
Riesling Auslese<br />
Clear, medium yellow. On the nose a lot of spice, crushed<br />
rock and ripe exotic fruit like passion fruit. Fine structure on<br />
90 2019 »Duo Surprise No.1« trocken SB/SÄ<br />
A petite aroma cluster of gooseberry, grapefruit, lychee<br />
and mango form a fruity and voluptuous fragrance. On the<br />
palate there is verve and also substance, again lots of fruit,<br />
lively acidity, juice and spice. A wonderful and welcoming<br />
surprise! 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
315
Bad Kreuznach<br />
PASSIONATE<br />
HOSTS<br />
TOGETHER WITH THE REGION’S WINEMAKERS – ABSOLUTE EXPERTS<br />
WHEN IT COMES TO GASTRONOMY – FALSTAFF HAS CAREFULLY CHOSEN<br />
AND COLLATED THE BEST ADDRESSES FOR EATING,<br />
DRINKING AND STAYING.<br />
Auszeit<br />
55543 Bad Kreuznach<br />
From quinoa salad to a large burger selection –<br />
the Auszeit in Bad Kreuznach offers a broad<br />
menu. In summer, you can enjoy the food and<br />
ever -cheerful service on the terrace with a view of<br />
the greenery. Excellent wines.<br />
Im Gütchen<br />
55545 Bad Kreuznach<br />
Baroque on the outside, classic contemporary cuisine<br />
on the inside: the Gütchen is a place of good<br />
taste where chef Jan Treutle scores with his ambitious<br />
gourmet cuisine. The wine list features<br />
around 180 bins from the Nahe region and<br />
around the whole world.<br />
Eugen-Kramb-Strasse 2<br />
+49 (671) 92005665<br />
www.auszeit-salinental.com<br />
Hüffelsheimer Strasse 1, +49 (671) 42626<br />
www.im-guetchen.com<br />
Recommended by: Falstaff-Redaktion<br />
NAHE<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Mees, Weingut Karl<br />
Stein, Wein- und Sektgut Bamberger<br />
316 falstaff<br />
Wine Guide Germany 2021
Im Kittchen<br />
55545 Bad Kreuznach<br />
This charming little restaurant is located in the<br />
middle of Bad Kreuznach's old town. Whether<br />
you are after fish in saffron broth or classic Wiener<br />
Schnitzel, the fresh seasonal cuisine goes perfectly<br />
with the exquisite wines which are predominantly<br />
from the Nahe region.<br />
NAHE | INNS AND RESTAURANTS<br />
Kupferkanne <br />
55566 Bad Sobernheim<br />
This family-run restaurant on the outskirts of Bad<br />
Sobernheim focuses on seasonal, regional country<br />
cooking served in a stylish modern ambience. The<br />
wine list is regional. Weather permitting, you can<br />
enjoy food and wine on the lovely terrace.<br />
Alte Poststrasse 2<br />
+49 (671) 9200811<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Lindenhof – Martin<br />
Reimann, Korrell, Weingut Karl Stein<br />
Berliner Strasse 2<br />
+49 (6751) 2858<br />
www.restaurant-kupferkanne.de<br />
<br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 17 | 20<br />
Drinks: 16 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
84<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
Mühlentor<br />
55543 Bad Kreuznach<br />
Chef Frank Hilgert and his team offer sophisticated<br />
regional cuisine made from fresh ingredients.<br />
The result is a combination of the classic and the<br />
new: Tafelspitz, proper bratwurst or fish fillets.<br />
Even the wines come from the region.<br />
Der Kaiserhof<br />
55452 Guldental<br />
Markus Buchholz convinces with his creative culinary<br />
concepts. Regional and seasonal ingredients<br />
are presented innovatively here and the result<br />
is a modern cuisine that really surprises<br />
guests. The wine cellar is a testament to both the<br />
variety and quality of Nahe wines.<br />
Mühlenstrasse 10<br />
+49 (671) 838200<br />
www.hotel-muehlentor.de<br />
Hauptstrasse 2-4<br />
+49 (6707) 94440<br />
www.k-guldental.de<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Mees<br />
Recommended by: Falstaff-Redaktion<br />
Ebernburger Hof<br />
55583 Bad Münster am<br />
Stein-Ebernburg<br />
The family-run three-star hotel is located in the<br />
rocky outcrops of the Rheingrafenstein area.<br />
While dining has only been available to hotel<br />
guests from 2020 onwards, the regional and seasonal<br />
cooking moves skillfully between tradition<br />
and modernity.<br />
Lohmühle<br />
55566 Meddersheim<br />
Diners who appreciate a cosy ambience as much<br />
as imaginative, regionally and seasonally oriented<br />
cooking will get their money's worth in this historic<br />
mill. Friendly service including great wine advice,<br />
drawing from a well-stocked cellar.<br />
Triftstrasse 1<br />
+49 (6708) 62950<br />
www.ebernburgerhof.de<br />
An der Strasse nach Meisenheim 1<br />
+49 (6751) 4574<br />
www.restaurant-lohmuehle.de<br />
Recommended by: Falstaff-Redaktion<br />
Recommended by: Falstaff-Redaktion<br />
80–84<br />
85–89<br />
90–94<br />
95–100 Points<br />
317
Zur Traube<br />
55566 Meddersheim<br />
Herbert Langendorf's smart country inn is one of<br />
the best addresses when it comes to well-executed,<br />
down-to-earth food. Langendorf's Rinderrücken<br />
in green pepper butter is just as good a recommendation<br />
as his lobster soup or homemade<br />
goose Maultaschen.<br />
Hermannshöhle <br />
55585<br />
Niederhausen<br />
In his cosy restaurant, Wigbert Weck mainly<br />
cooks down-to-earth classics such as sautéed<br />
black pudding on mashed potato, saddle of veal<br />
with homemade Spätzle or pike-perch fillet on<br />
Rieslingkraut. This highly recommended cooking<br />
is accompanied by selected Nahe wines.<br />
Sobernheimer Strasse 2<br />
+49 (6751) 950382<br />
www.langendorfstraube.de<br />
Recommended by: Falstaff-Redaktion<br />
Hermannshöhle 1<br />
+49 (6758) 6486<br />
www.hermannshoehle-weck.de<br />
<br />
Food: 44 | 50<br />
Service: 17 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
87<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
Zum Dorfkrug<br />
55596 Oberstreit<br />
On Mondays, freshly-roasted chicken flutters out<br />
of the kitchen, and on Fridays, the fishing rod is<br />
cast out and delicious fish dishes are served. All<br />
this in the ambience of a typical country inn and<br />
in summer they also serve food outside. The wine<br />
list shows the strengths of the region.<br />
Nahestrasse 5<br />
+49 (6758) 9699375<br />
www.landgasthof-messer.de<br />
Meisenheimer<br />
Hof<br />
<br />
55590 Meisenheim<br />
The stately baroque town house boasts a stylish<br />
restaurant which Markus Pape has turned into a<br />
real destination for gourmets. His food is of outstanding<br />
quality made from sustainably-farmed,<br />
seasonal and local produce.<br />
Recommended by: Falstaff-Redaktion<br />
Stempel <br />
55452 Windesheim<br />
Chef Jens Stempel interprets classic country cuisine<br />
in a new and creative way, based on<br />
carefully-selected, fresh, regional produce. He<br />
also offers an exquisite selection of local wines<br />
from the surrounding region. The seven-course<br />
menu changes every month.<br />
Obergasse 33<br />
+49 (6753) 1237780<br />
www.meisenheimer-hof.de<br />
Food: 44 | 50<br />
Service: 19 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 9 | 10<br />
Hauptstrasse 32-33<br />
+49 (6707) 9131<br />
www.stempel-windesheim.de<br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
<br />
90<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
<br />
87<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
318 falstaff<br />
Wine Guide Germany 2021
SPACE FOR YOUR<br />
WINE NOTES<br />
319
PFALZ<br />
A MAGNET FOR<br />
WINE LOVERS<br />
Photo: WSNA
The Dürkheimer Fuchsmantel site below the Flaggen Tower<br />
BREAD, SAUSAGE AND WINE –<br />
BUT PLEASE WEAR YOUR MASK<br />
The Pfalz knows how to enjoy itself despite Corona.<br />
Its joie de vivre is infectious!<br />
WORDS ULRICH SAUTTER<br />
The 500ml bottle of hand sanitiser<br />
with its little pump at the top is<br />
labelled ‘Forster Kirchenstück<br />
Grosses Gewächs 2012‘. It makes you<br />
smile as you squirt and rub it in your<br />
hands before entering the Vinothek, or<br />
wine shop, at the Bürklin-Wolf estate in<br />
Wachenheim. Sadly, of course, the liquid<br />
does not smell of Kirchenstück Riesling –<br />
but at the very least of grappa as the heady<br />
alcohol fumes pervade the layers of the<br />
obligatory face mask. It is summer 2020,<br />
Corona is omnipresent and even the joyous<br />
Pfalz groans under the strain of hygiene<br />
regulations and the fear of infection.<br />
At least the Pfälzer have not lost their<br />
sense of humour: the deliberately<br />
mis-labelled sanitiser is just a tiny sign<br />
and proof of their eternal love of mischief.<br />
Yet, in a region that usually boasts 300<br />
village wine fêtes a year, the virus has put<br />
a particular dampener on fun. Even the<br />
proud, annual Dürkheimer Wurstmakt,<br />
the world’s greatest wine fête attracting as<br />
many as 60,000 revellers in recent years,<br />
had to be cancelled in 2020 – for the first<br />
time since the end of the Second World<br />
War. Neither have the Pfalz hospitality<br />
businesses escaped this crisis unscathed.<br />
In the newly-fashionable subregion of<br />
Zellertal, the freshly-renovated Hotel<br />
Schwarzer Herrgott had to wait until the<br />
end of August for all security measures to<br />
be in place before beer garden, wine stand<br />
and courtyard café could open to the<br />
public. But owner and landlady Karin<br />
Hellert nonetheless reports two “fabulous<br />
months” in September and October.<br />
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PFALZ | A PORTRAIT OF THE REGION<br />
Guests were relaxed and relieved, saying:<br />
“How lovely that you are here and that it<br />
is so busy here.” Before the new lockdown<br />
was announced in early November, they<br />
even managed to stage a particular<br />
highlight: “We called it ‘the encounter of<br />
gods’,” says Hellert. “We had five wine<br />
estates in our courtyard who all make<br />
wine from the Schwarzer Herrgott<br />
vineyard.” Her guests loved the event. The<br />
young businesswoman meets the fact that<br />
the renewed lockdown ruins her<br />
November sales, and possibly those of the<br />
entire winter ahead, with gallows humour:<br />
“One can make the best use of time by<br />
developing new concepts. We have enough<br />
ideas up our sleeve.”<br />
Outside in the vineyard, nature just ran its<br />
course despite this corona-year – and did<br />
so in a particularly pleasing fashion. “We<br />
cannot complain at all,” says Katrin Wind<br />
in Arzheim, one of the southern Pfalz’s<br />
most successful winemakers. “When<br />
lockdown hit at the end of March the<br />
brilliant sunshine continued for weeks.<br />
What great balm for the psyche. The air<br />
was so clear, never before have I been able<br />
to see the Black Forest from the Kalmit<br />
vineyard.” Likewise, the rest of the<br />
growing season had been almost ideal, she<br />
Weingut Von Winning made it to the top<br />
under the auspices of Stephan Attmann<br />
says: “Temperatures were moderate and<br />
did not reach the spikes of 2018 and 2019.<br />
The Pinot-varieties required a turbo-quick<br />
harvest, but I am very happy with the<br />
2020 Rieslings. The Riesling from the<br />
Kalmit vineyard has an acidity of 8.5g/l<br />
and a pH level of 2.9! Perfect!”<br />
Corona-restrictions, at least in the<br />
vineyard, barely caused problems. “It’s<br />
not really difficult to keep your distance<br />
when working in the vineyard or<br />
harvesting,” she reports. It was harder to<br />
Photos: Shutterstock, provided, Weingut Waldkirch/David Weimann<br />
Sophie Christmann‘s Spätburgunder, for which<br />
she is responsible at her parental estate, caused<br />
a real stir during this year’s tastings<br />
323
Katrin Wind, young wine talent and a firm<br />
feature already on the Pfalz wine scene<br />
get the people into the vineyard, getting<br />
eight harvesters into the same minibus<br />
was just not possible. Likewise, feeding<br />
the harvest crew also required rethinking.<br />
Losing that lovely conviviality as a result<br />
was the hardest thing the virus forced<br />
upon them. It is exactly that conviviality<br />
that makes the Pfalz a place to recharge<br />
and even more of a magnet for all those in<br />
need of relaxation and refreshment than<br />
it already was. Had you strolled through<br />
Deidesheim or any other Mittelhaardt<br />
village in late July it would have been<br />
hard not to notice that the non-local<br />
number plates in the parking lots were<br />
even more numerous than in previous<br />
summers: Berlin and Hamburg,<br />
Düsseldorf and Cologne, Bremen and of<br />
course also Frankfurt and Mannheim and<br />
various other places could be spotted.<br />
An orderly queue, all the way around the<br />
street corner, had formed in front of the<br />
famous butcher shop Hambel. Customers<br />
waited, keeping the mandatory one-anda-half<br />
metre distance from each other, and<br />
started discussing their favourite sausages<br />
and preferred Saumagen (stuffed pork<br />
stomach, the local speciality). They all<br />
eventually got what they came for; the<br />
shop was as well-stocked as ever. A Pfalz<br />
butcher, just as a Pfalz winemaker, is not<br />
browbeaten that easily. What a great thing<br />
that there is such a thing as the Pfalz. How<br />
wonderful that it simply exists with all its<br />
pleasures and its sense of joy – especially<br />
when you need it most.<br />
INFO<br />
Read more about this author in our Tasting<br />
Panel chapter on page 12.<br />
PFALZ WINE REGION<br />
Growing area<br />
approx. 23,400 hectares<br />
Administrative Split<br />
2 districts (Bereich), 25 collective sites<br />
(Grosslage), 323 single sites (Einzellagen)<br />
Soils<br />
granite, Triassic sandtone and limestone<br />
Important Grape Varieties<br />
Riesling, Weissburgunder, Spätburgunder<br />
Winegrowers’ Association<br />
Pfalzwein e. V., Martin-Luther-Strasse 69<br />
67433 Neustadt an der Weinstrasse<br />
www.pfalz.de<br />
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PFALZ | GRANDS CRUS<br />
Deidesheim, Kalkofen and Hohenmorgen sites<br />
GRANDS CRUS – PFALZ<br />
TOP WINES FROM PRIVILEGED SITES OF THE REGION<br />
Photos: provided, Rheinland Pfalz Tourismus/Dominik Ketz, Weingut Rings<br />
ZELL | SCHWARZER HERRGOTT<br />
This 11ha/27 acre site lies at a relatively high<br />
altitude for the Pfalz: at 170-250m/557-<br />
820ft. The name-giving shrine within the<br />
vineyard was erected by the monks of Zell<br />
abbey and it weathered into a black colour,<br />
hence today’s name for the crucifix. Around<br />
the year 1900, the wines from this site were<br />
amongst the most prized of the Pfalz. Over<br />
the past decade, climate change led to its<br />
rediscovery. It faces due south and is<br />
characterised by porous limestone bedrock<br />
with a thin topsoil of black, calcareous marl.<br />
Thanks to aquiferous layers in the subsoil<br />
vines never experience dry stress here.<br />
94 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
Weingut Bremer, further info on page 342<br />
94 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
Weingut Schwedhelm, further info on page 410<br />
93 2017 Riesling Alte Reben trocken<br />
92 2019 »Unterm Kreuz« Riesling trocken<br />
Weingut Janson Bernhard, jansonbernhard.de<br />
92 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Philipp Kuhn, further info on page 373<br />
90 2018 Riesling Alte Reben trocken<br />
Weingut Wick, www.weingut-wick.com<br />
KALLSTADT | SAUMAGEN<br />
The Romans quarried limestone here – and<br />
limestone also characterises the opulent yet<br />
always fresh wines of this site. The best<br />
parcels of this vineyard which gently slopes<br />
south to southeast have calcareous marl<br />
soils strongly enriched with weathered<br />
limestone. The lesser parcels of this 40ha/98<br />
acre site are dominated by loess and loam.<br />
The Saumagen sits at the western confines<br />
of the village and is considered Kallstadt’s<br />
best – as well as one of Germany’s best.<br />
95 2018 Spätburgunder GG<br />
94 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Rings, further info on page 406<br />
93 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Philipp Kuhn, further info on page 373<br />
325
The biodynamic Weingut Janson Bernhard<br />
93 2018 Riesling trocken<br />
Weingut Fusser, further info on page 353<br />
93 2018 Riesling trocken<br />
92 2017 Riesling trocken<br />
Weingut Kirchner, www.weingut-kirchner.de<br />
92 2018 Riesling trocken<br />
Weingut am Nil, further info on page 395<br />
92 2019 Riesling Spätlese trocken<br />
92 2018 »Herzstück« Riesling trocken<br />
Weingut Bühler, www.buehler-pfalz.de<br />
91 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
91 2019 »Horn« Riesling trocken<br />
Weingut Petri, further info on page 398<br />
89 2019 Riesling Kabinett trocken<br />
WG Kallstadt, further info on page 366<br />
94 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Acham-Magin, www.acham-magin.de<br />
94 2016 Riesling GG<br />
Geh. Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan<br />
www.bassermann-jordan.de<br />
93 2018 Riesling trocken »Grosse Lage«<br />
Margarethenhof, further info on page 381<br />
93 2018 Riesling GG<br />
Reichsrat von Buhl, further info on page 344<br />
93 2019 Riesling GG,<br />
Weingut Bürklin-Wolf, www.buerklin-wolf.de<br />
93 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Geh. Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan<br />
www.bassermann-jordan.de<br />
93 2018 Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Karl Schaefer<br />
www.karl-schaefer.com<br />
92 2019 Riesling Spätlese trocken<br />
Weingut Eugen Müller, further info on page 390<br />
92 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
92 2018 Riesling Réserve<br />
91 2018 Riesling trocken<br />
Weingut Lucashof, www.lucashof.de<br />
FORST | JESUITENGARTEN<br />
This has a mix of different soils: red<br />
sandstone, basalt, calcareous marl and clay.<br />
This only 7ha/17 acre small site, slightly<br />
FORST | PECHSTEIN<br />
The soils are a mix of weathered, Triassic,<br />
red sandstone and clay to which the black<br />
basalt chunks of the nearby Pechsteinkopf,<br />
a volcanic vent in the peaks of the Pfälzer<br />
Wald, were added. In its active time the<br />
volcano spewed up lots of basalt.<br />
95 2019 Riesling trocken,<br />
Heinrich Spindler<br />
www.weingutheinrichspindler.de<br />
94 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Georg Mosbacher, further info on page 389<br />
Forst, Jesuitengarten<br />
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PFALZ | GRANDS CRUS<br />
Zell<br />
Grünstadt<br />
SCHWARZER HERGOTT<br />
Rhine<br />
SAUMAGEN<br />
Kallstadt Mannheim<br />
PECHSTEIN Bad Dürkheim<br />
JESUITENGARTEN Forst<br />
KIRCHENSTÜCK Deidesheim<br />
KALKOFEN<br />
Neustadt<br />
Selected Grand Cru Site<br />
Vineyard Area<br />
Villages<br />
KASTANIENBUSCH<br />
Birkweiler<br />
Landau<br />
Rhine<br />
Photos: provided<br />
sloping east, was classified as the Pfalz’s second-best<br />
site as early as 1828.<br />
94 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Georg Mosbacher,<br />
Further info on page 389<br />
94 2018 Riesling GG<br />
Reichsrat von Buhl, further info on page 344<br />
94 2019 Riesling GG<br />
94 2014 Riesling GG<br />
Geh. Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan<br />
www.bassermann-jordan.de<br />
93 2019 Riesling trocken »Grosse Lage«<br />
Margarethenhof, further info on page 381<br />
93 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Acham-Magin, www.acham-magin.de<br />
93 2019 »Grosse Lage« Riesling trocken,<br />
Heinrich Spindler,<br />
www.weingutheinrichspindler.de<br />
92 2019 Riesling Spätlese trocken<br />
Weingut Eugen Müller,<br />
further info on page 390<br />
90 2019 Riesling Kabinett trocken<br />
Weingut Eugen Müller,<br />
further info on page 390<br />
FORST | KIRCHENSTÜCK<br />
The soils of this 3.7ha/9.1 acre site consist of<br />
weathered red sandstone, limestone, basalt<br />
and clay – but two metres below you will find<br />
huge limestone shelves. Even if the red<br />
sandstone walls surrounding the vineyard<br />
are much lower than those around Clos de<br />
Vougeot, they still offer protection from<br />
northerly winds – and lend this site, improved<br />
by human hands, too, proper shape.<br />
98 2017 Riesling GG<br />
Weingut von Winning, further info on page 399<br />
97 2017 Riesling GG<br />
Reichsrat von Buhl, further info on page 344<br />
96 2018 Riesling GG<br />
Geh. Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan<br />
www.bassermann-jordan.de<br />
95 2018 Riesling GG<br />
Acham-Magin, www.acham-magin.de<br />
95 2018 »Grosse Lage« Riesling trocken,<br />
Heinrich Spindler, www.weingutheinrichspindler.de<br />
94 2017 Riesling Spätlese trocken,<br />
Weingut Eugen Müller, weingut-eugen-mueller.de<br />
327
Birkweiler Kastanienbusch – one of the most famous sites<br />
on the Südliche Weinstrasse<br />
DEIDESHEIM | KALKOFEN<br />
Limestone kilns used to stand on this site and<br />
both calcareous marls and limestone debris<br />
characterise this 5ha/12 acre vineyard. Its<br />
situation on the warm mid slope and – somewhat<br />
flat – southern aspect along with several<br />
sandstone walls at its northern end create a<br />
particularly mild meso climate. It brings forth<br />
aromatically-layered and expressively mineral<br />
wines.<br />
94 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Geh. Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan<br />
www.bassermann-jordan.de<br />
93 2019 Riesling »Grosse Lage« trocken<br />
Weingut Mehling, further info on page 362<br />
92 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Georg Siben Erben, further info on page 412<br />
92 2019 Riesling Spätlese trocken<br />
Weingut Jul. Ferd. Kimich, www.weingut-kimich.de<br />
shape of the slope lends a particularly mild climate.<br />
The name references the chestnut trees, known<br />
locally as ‘Keschte’, growing around the vineyard.<br />
95 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Ökonomierat Rebholz, oekonomierat-rebholz.de<br />
94 2019 »Köppel« Riesling GG<br />
Dr. Wehrheim, www.weingut-wehrheim.de<br />
91 2019 Riesling trocken,<br />
Weingut Emil Bauer und Söhne, further info on p. 334<br />
90 2018 Riesling trocken,<br />
Weingut Villa Hochdörffer, further info on page 417<br />
BIRKWEILER | KASTANIENBUSCH<br />
This site is an island of reddish shale amidst the<br />
Pfalz landscape usually so dominated by Triassic<br />
red sandstone and limestone. But red sandstone<br />
indeed crops up here, too, especially in the<br />
higher-lying parcels which rise up to 300m/984ft.<br />
The63ha/156 acres have gradients between<br />
15-30% and face south to southeast. The convex<br />
Deidesheim, Kalkofen<br />
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Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT JÜRGEN ANDRES<br />
Langensteinstrasse 22, 67435 Neustadt-Speyerdorf<br />
T: +49 (6327) 2847, info@weingut-andres.de<br />
www.weingut-andres.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Jürgen Andres<br />
Contact: Yvonne Andres<br />
Hectares: 21 ha<br />
In 2019, Jürgen Andres and his wife<br />
Yvonne have made really fresh and animating<br />
wines. They farm a rather broad<br />
spectrum of grape varieties, from Cabernet<br />
Blanc via Dornfelder to Riesling and Pinot<br />
vareities on their 21 hectares which are fertilised<br />
organically. Andres relies on spontaneous<br />
ferments which lend a striking fruitiness to the<br />
wines. Apart from their “Helden in Gummistiefeln’’<br />
(= heroes in wellies) which has gained<br />
legendary status, we also enjoyed their crunchy<br />
Sauvignon Blanc which offers tons of drinking<br />
pleasure for relatively little money.<br />
89 2019 »Helden in Gummistiefeln« AU/WB<br />
Clear, light yellow. On the nose pear, ripe apple and some<br />
quince. Rounded with fully integrated acidity on the palate;<br />
pear again and a certain creaminess, apple peel texture gives<br />
a nice grip. Well-woven structure, ending with a light fruit<br />
note. A good food wine. 12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Clear, light yellow. On the nose black currant, citrus and<br />
some freshly cut grass. On the palate invigorating acidity, citrus<br />
flavors, currants, clear and fresh, medium structure and<br />
length. Good with fried fish. 11,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
88 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
Medium, clear yellow. Initially a slightly restrained nose then<br />
ripe citrus fruit, tangerine with nuances of lime and mango.<br />
Invigorating acidity on the palate; fresh and clear with a mineral<br />
pull. Citrus fruit underpin the medium structure and<br />
length, ideal for a picnic. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
88 2019 Cabernet Blanc trocken<br />
Clear, light yellow. Aromas of fresh blackcurrant, a touch of<br />
tomato leaf, red pepper and a spicy underlay. On the palate<br />
there’s a restrained acidity with fine phenolics and again cassis<br />
and pepper notes. Medium-bodied with a spicy finish.<br />
12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
88 2019 Gelber Muskateller feinherb<br />
88 2019 Chardonnay Spätlese<br />
88 2019 Gewürztraminer Spätlese<br />
87 2019 Weissburgunder feinherb<br />
87 2019 Grauburgunder trocken<br />
88 2018 Dornfelder trocken<br />
87 2018 Schwarzriesling feinherb<br />
88 2019 Rosé trocken<br />
Raspberry colour. Raspberry and strawberry aromas with a<br />
hint of spice. The palate is red fruited, notably raspberries,<br />
strawberries. Well integrated acidity, fine phenolics, medium<br />
structure with a fresh red fruit finish. Refreshing with a<br />
pleasing tension. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
329
WEINGUT MICHAEL ANDRES<br />
Hauptstrasse 33a, 67152 Ruppertsberg<br />
T: +49 (6326) 8667, info@andres-wein.de<br />
www.andres-wein.de<br />
Cellar Door: Saturdays 10–16 hrs,<br />
Mondays through Fridays by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Michael Andres<br />
Contact: Michael Andres<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 40,000 (85 % white, 15 % red)/7 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
It is Michael Andres’ ideal to make wines<br />
in perfect tune with nature – which is why<br />
he works according to biodynamic principles.<br />
During vinification he relies on gentle<br />
handling of grapes and “minimally invasive<br />
methods’’. This shows particularly in the<br />
wines of his “N-Series’’ which is fermented<br />
with wild yeasts and bottled unfiltered. His<br />
wines are named according to his aims – “No<br />
Limits’’ and “Next Level’’ – the results are<br />
magnificent: the wines shine with balance and<br />
structure. But of course his classics are just as<br />
well-made, above all the tightly-woven, mineral<br />
Riesling “Ferus’’.<br />
93 2019 »Ferus« Riesling trocken<br />
Clear, rich yellow. Multi-layered nose with ripe citrus fruit,<br />
grapefruit and green apple, all with a mineral underlay, animating.<br />
Taut and firm on the palate, fine phenolics, citrus<br />
fruit, lots of spice. A tightly woven wine, mineral and long,<br />
which clearly has further potential. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
92 2019 »N-Linie« Deidesheim Leinhöhle<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Rich, deep and clear yellow. On the nose there’s a real depth<br />
of herbal spices, ripe citrus fruits and hints of wood smoke.<br />
On the palate there’s gripping acidity, a nice texture, quince<br />
and tangerine fruit and a mineral pull. Good structure and<br />
tension. Long - has potential. 12 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2019 »N-Linie« Deidesheim Kieselberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Rich, clear yellow. Spicy aromas including lemon balm, ripe<br />
citrus fruit, shattered rock, smoke and vanilla. Generous and<br />
full. Juicy on the palate with ripe, bright tangerine fruit and<br />
fine acidity. Gentle phenolics create lots of tension. Burgundian<br />
in style. Good length and potential. 12 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2019 Ruppertsberg Reiterpfad<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Clear, light yellow. On the nose delicate flowers, peach, red<br />
grapefruit, mint, finely chiselled scent, stimulating. Fine and<br />
sophisticated on the palate, fresh acidity, mineral underlay,<br />
citrus fruits and spiciness. Elegant in structure and with nice<br />
length, well balanced. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
91 2019 »N-Linie« Grauer Burgunder<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
90 2019 »N-Linie« Chardonnay<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
90 2019 »Einklang N-Linie«<br />
Landwein trocken CH/AU/PG<br />
90 2019 Deidesheimer Herrgottsacker<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 Chardonnay Auxerrois trocken CH/AU<br />
89 2019 Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
91 2018 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
92 2019 Deidesheim Mäushöhle am<br />
Kirchenberg Riesling trocken<br />
Clear, light yellow. Aromas include crunchy citrus fruit, lime,<br />
mandarine, lemon balm and bay leaf. Fresh grip on the palate<br />
with lime, grapefruit and mint notes. There’s a mineral<br />
pull, wonderfully clear and direct tension and a strong structure,<br />
finishes with good length. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
330 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT ANDRES<br />
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
Weinstrasse 6, 67146 Deidesheim<br />
T: +49 (6326) 7708, info@andres-deidesheim.de<br />
www.andres-deidesheim.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9.30–12.30 hrs<br />
and 14–18.30 hrs, Saturdays 9–16 hrs, Sundays 9–12 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Michael Andres<br />
Contact: Michael and Thomas Andres<br />
Hectares: 22 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
This family-run estate, taken over from<br />
their parents by Michael and Thomas<br />
Andres in 2015, stands for reliably constant<br />
quality with excellent wines at the top.<br />
The wines that they make are characterised<br />
strongly by their Mittelhaardt terroir – spanning<br />
the spectrum from poor Triassic sandstone<br />
to opulent calcareous marl. Gentleness<br />
towards nature and their grapes is key for the<br />
pair and the results are most respectable: the<br />
mineral and juicy Rieslings from the sites of<br />
“Ungeheuer” and “Leinhöhle” turned out exquisitely<br />
well, they are complex and will age<br />
beautifully.<br />
93 2019 Forst Ungeheuer Riesling trocken<br />
Complex with fine spice, yellow fruit and minerality. Juicy on<br />
the palate without fullness, rather concentrated and yet<br />
weightless. Clear and focused at the same time. Fine spiciness,<br />
depth, stony minerality, citric, salty acidity. Fine and<br />
complex. 13 Vol.-%. cork<br />
93 2019 Deidesheim Leinhöhle<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Fine, deep yellow fruit and mild spice aromas. Stone-dusted<br />
minerality flows on the palate. Balanced, clear, interwoven,<br />
delicate juiciness is followed by fine phenolic, shattered rock,<br />
tart hints, fresh citrus fruit and fully integrated acidity.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork<br />
92 2019 »vom Buntsandstein«<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Smoky, stony notes, light yellow fruit, behind it delicate spice<br />
and depth. Full-bodied and deep on the palate - complemented<br />
by structure and stony minerality. At first calm, then<br />
building up more and more tension. Fine mineral grip, citric,<br />
straight acidity. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap<br />
92 2019 Ruppertsberg Reiterpfad<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Focused, yellow and green fruit, some stone fruit, chamomile,<br />
pepper and a dusty minerality. Juicy on the palate but<br />
with some leanness and greener notes. Vivid phenolics,<br />
youthful citrus, zest and shattered rock minerality. Saltyfresh<br />
acid structure. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork<br />
92 2019 Königsbach Ölberg Riesling trocken<br />
91 2019 Ruppertsberg Riesling trocken<br />
91 2019 Haardt Chardonnay trocken<br />
90 2019 »Reserve« Chardonnay trocken<br />
90 2019 Haardt Herzog Chardonnay trocken<br />
89 2019 Deidesheim Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
89 2019 Haardt Riesling Kabinett<br />
90 2019 Deidesheim Riesling trocken<br />
Spicy minerality and yellow fruit, pome fruit, melon, stone<br />
dust. Full-bodied and rich on the palate; sweet apple and<br />
fresh fruit, complemented by stony minerality, citric notes<br />
and lively acidity. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
331
WEINGUT SANKT ANNABERG<br />
St.-Annastrasse 203, 76835 Burrweiler<br />
T: +49 (6323) 949260<br />
sankt-annaberg@lergenmueller.de<br />
www.sankt-annaberg.com<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Victoria Lergenmüller<br />
Contact: Victoria Lergenmüller<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 21,000 (100 % white)/7 ha<br />
Sankt Annaberg was created when Napoleon<br />
had a garrison built for his troops<br />
here. “This place has always been about<br />
food and drink,” reports Victoria Lergenmüller<br />
who took over the running of the estate in 2012<br />
at the age of 21. Her focus is on Riesling, grown<br />
on limestone, Triassic sandstone and rare slate<br />
and beautifully interpreted accordingly. By<br />
now Victoria Lergenmüller also makes a remarkable<br />
Spätburgunder. One thing was clear<br />
for this winemaker from the start: she wanted<br />
to reveal “the real character of these wines.<br />
There is nothing worse than compliant wines,’’<br />
she says. Evidently, she is doing a great job!<br />
92 2018 Burrweiler Schäwer Riesling trocken<br />
Pleasantly austere aroma, somewhat stony and restrained<br />
fruit, slightly citric notes. Mineral on the palate, dry style<br />
that goes well with the fine acidity. All very coherent, a terroir<br />
wine without being bold. Good finish with lots of flavour<br />
on the palate. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2018 »Johanniskreuz« Burrweiler St.<br />
Annaberg Riesling trocken<br />
The wood for the 500-litre barrel in which the wine was matured<br />
comes from the Johanniskreuz site. The nose is not<br />
about primary aromas, but on the palate the sometimes<br />
cheeky Riesling fruit remains restrained. Firm structure,<br />
seems very serious, will develop well. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2018 Ilbesheim Kalmit Riesling trocken<br />
Individual nose, ivy, chamomile, green apple, hay, blossom<br />
and exotic fruits. Exciting and multifaceted. Moderate acidity<br />
and tasty terroir on the palate, good balance. Slightly salty<br />
and of good length. Be quick, there are only 750 bottles.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2019 »Alte Reben« Gleisweiler Hölle<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Old vines that really deserve this designation. Some of them<br />
are 65 years old and far from retirement. So clear and vital on<br />
the nose, never superficial, but delicate with more herbiness<br />
than fruit. On the palate there is good substance, minerality<br />
and freshness. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 »Terrassenlage« Burrweiler St.<br />
Annaberg Riesling trocken<br />
90 2018 Burrweiler Sankt Annaberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 »355 NN« Burrweiler St. Annaberg<br />
Riesling feinherb<br />
Interplay of citrus and exotic aromas on the nose, mango,<br />
lychee, not too overt, but fine and well integrated. On the<br />
palate there is good balance, sweetness and acidity get<br />
along excellently. Shows freshness and elegance - a great<br />
representative of this style. 11,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
332 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT BÄRENHOF<br />
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
Weinstrasse 4, 67098 Bad Dürkheim<br />
T: +49 (6322) 4137, weingut@baerenhof.de<br />
www.weingut-baerenhof.de<br />
Cellar Door: Saturdays 9–16 hrs, Sundays 10–12 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Jürgen Bähr<br />
Contact: Jürgen Bähr<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 550,000 (70 % white, 30 % red)/40 ha<br />
At Jürgen Bähr’s winery you really do<br />
get a lot of wine for your money. When<br />
wines with real site character go for<br />
less than ten Euros, it is not only bargain hunters<br />
who prick their ears up but wine lovers,<br />
too. The Weilberg Riesling with its savoury<br />
spice from terra rossa soils is the primus inter<br />
pares amongst a whole range of successful<br />
Rieslings. We also liked Bähr’s idea to vinify<br />
his Chardonnay with less wood. Even his rather<br />
gluggable Auslese of Huxelrebe and his excursion<br />
into sweetness are convincing (simply<br />
because they are not cloying).<br />
90 2019 Ungstein Michelsberg<br />
Riesling Auslese trocken<br />
Pomelo and grapefruit, blood orange and lemon balm. Complex,<br />
with just a faint hint of overripeness. Massive on the palate, with<br />
very fine phenolics, silky, lively acidity, lots of juice and fruit, controlled<br />
power, good substance and length. 14 Vol.-%. DIAM, €<br />
90 2019 Bad Dürkheim Rittergarten<br />
Riesling Spätlese trocken<br />
Rather restrained on the nose, yellow-fruit and tangerine. On<br />
the palate there is fiery acidity and terpenes (linalool, geraniol).<br />
The wine is quite compact yet powerful, with elegant,<br />
medium-weight fruit, mineral notes and a distinctive extract,<br />
rich. Still closed. 13 Vol.-%. DIAM, €<br />
90 2019 »Collection«<br />
Chardonnay Spätlese trocken<br />
Floral, herbal-spicy, very fresh on the nose and clear. The palate<br />
shows freshly roasted corn cakes with some texture and a<br />
fine acidity. Discreet minerality and fine spicy wood on the finish.<br />
A balanced Chardonnay with a restrained wood influence.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. DIAM, €<br />
90 2019 Ungstein Osterberg<br />
Huxelrebe Auslese<br />
Concentrated botrytis fruit, candied aromas, good clarity<br />
and freshness. On the palate there is crunchy acidity, subtle<br />
viscosity, a rather restrained sweetness, distinct mineral<br />
notes and medium-weight extract. Not over-concentrated<br />
and thick. 9 Vol.-%. DIAM, €<br />
90 2019 Ungstein Honigsäckel<br />
Grauer Burgunder Spätlese trocken<br />
89 2019 Ungstein Honigsäckel<br />
Weissburgunder Spätlese trocken<br />
89 2019 Ungstein Herrenberg<br />
Riesling Spätlese trocken<br />
89 2019 »Lebenslang« trocken WB/SG/PG<br />
88 2019 Bad Dürkheim Spielberg<br />
Chardonnay Spätlese trocken<br />
87 2019 Bad Dürkheim Steinberg »Trockener<br />
Bär« Riesling Spätlese trocken<br />
89 2019 Gewürztraminer Spätlese<br />
91 2019 Ungstein Weilberg Riesling<br />
Spätlese trocken<br />
Quite powerful, also terroir-spiced nose, peach, red apple,<br />
iron. On the palate there is substance and fullness, with<br />
good mineral extract, arrow-like acidity and very good<br />
freshness. The impression is almost light-footed, but in a<br />
substantial way. 13,5 Vol.-%, DIAM, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
333
WEINGUT EMIL BAUER UND SÖHNE<br />
Walsheimer Strasse 18, 76829 Landau-Nussdorf<br />
T: +49 (6341) 61754, info@bauerwein.de<br />
www.bauerwein.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–12 hrs and<br />
14–18 hrs, Saturdays 9–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Alexander Bauer<br />
Contact: Martin Bauer<br />
Hectares: 42 ha<br />
The Bauer brothers are not really into modest<br />
packaging. And why should they be? Their<br />
wines are convincing, so they are within their<br />
rights to give them slightly outrageous names – even<br />
if labels like “No Sex” and “Aber geil” can split opinions.<br />
As long as the Sauvignon Blanc “Insomnia”<br />
from the Walsheimer Silberberg site is so finely balanced,<br />
and the Viognier “Beachball” from the Nussdorfer<br />
Herrenberger site is so complex that you barely<br />
believe that it was made here in the Pfalz – since this<br />
variety usually only reaches its greatest heights in the<br />
Rhône – everything is fine. To put it in a nutshell: this<br />
traditional estate lives and breathes innovation –<br />
and does so with aplomb. Congratulations!<br />
93 2019 »Insomnia« Walsheim Silberberg<br />
Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Medium lemon yellow. Scents of grapefruit, ripe peach and<br />
lime. On the palate flavours of violets, passion fruit and lemon<br />
zest integrate well. Medium weight body is balanced by<br />
fine and lively acidity. Long finish. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
92 2018 »Beachball« Nussdorf Herrenberg<br />
Viognier trocken<br />
Complex nose with ripe peach, nutmeg, ripe pear and honeysuckle.<br />
On the palate, flavours of violet, redcurrants leaf,<br />
mandarine and dill as well as orange zest. Good substance,<br />
very well supported by fine acidity and with a long finish.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2017 »Servator« trocken NE/BA<br />
An intense aroma of dark cherry, blueberry and clove. On the<br />
palate black pepper, ripe plum and aniseed are to the fore.<br />
The rather young tannin and the fruit are supported by lively<br />
acidity. A lot of elegance and at the same time a very complete<br />
wine. 14 Vol.-%. cork<br />
91 2017 »Amator« trocken GN/MV/SY<br />
Medium ruby. On the nose there’s an almost subtle scent of<br />
raspberry, cherry and tomato leaf. On the palate also flavours<br />
of sweet strawberry, blueberry and aniseed, balanced<br />
by fresh and lively acidity. Fine, still young tannin. An exciting<br />
GSM blend. 14 Vol.-%. cork<br />
91 2019 »Redemption« Nussdorf Im<br />
Ochsenloch Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 Viognier trocken<br />
90 2019 »Feeling so real« Essingen<br />
Sonnenberg Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
90 2019 Birkweiler Kastanienbusch<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
91 2018 »Meisterstück« tr. CS/ME/MA/CF/PV<br />
91 2017 »Altor« trocken SN/CS/CF<br />
90 2017 »Cultor« tr. CS/MA/ME/CF/PV/CA<br />
91 2019 Auxerrois trocken<br />
Pale golden yellow. On the nose, a fragrance of apricot,<br />
nectarine and mirabelle plum, complemented on the palate<br />
by flavours of redcurrants leaf, almond and green apple.<br />
Suitable acidity with a body of at least medium weight.<br />
Good finish. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
334 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT FRIEDRICH BECKER<br />
Hauptstrasse 29, 76889 Schweigen-Rechtenbach<br />
T: +49 (6342) 290, wein@friedrichbecker.de<br />
www.friedrichbecker.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Friedrich Wilhelm Becker<br />
Contact: Friedrich Wilhelm Becker<br />
Hectares: 29 ha<br />
Friedrich Wilhelm Becker takes this famous<br />
estate in Schweigen from success<br />
to success: he exploits the properties of<br />
the local limestone – on either side of the<br />
French-German border – for Pinots which<br />
turn out to have class, depth and ageing potential,<br />
no matter in what colour they come:<br />
white, red or, in the case of the Grauburgunder,<br />
copper-coloured. These are by no means wines<br />
for easy glugging. Yet, those who have little patience<br />
to store, and know how to pair the<br />
wines with some home-cooking, will be richly<br />
rewarded!<br />
94 2018 Grauburgunder Réserve<br />
“Gris” in colour with red-golden reflections. A radiant and<br />
complex berry fruit, very typical of Pinot. On the palate there<br />
is crunchy acidity and dense, fine yet simultaneously tense<br />
phenolics. Mouth watering, full-bodied and spicy. Plump extract.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
96 2017 Schweigen Heydenreich<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Initially herbs like lovage on the concentrated nose, then<br />
black tea, miso, tar and dark fruit. Concentrated and compacted<br />
on the palate, almost painful intensity on the<br />
mid-palate. Strong minerality, gripping tannin, great potential!<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
94 2017 Schweigen Sankt Paul<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Cherry and rosehip meet in a multi-layered bouquet of herbs,<br />
smoke and limestone notes. On the palate the wine is juicy<br />
and supple, becoming more dense as it builds up tension. The<br />
tannins are gripping and still astringent - youthful.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
94 2017 »KB« Spätburgunder GG<br />
Closed nose – herbs, toasted aromas and smoke in equal<br />
quantity. The palate shows juicy, vivid acidity. Emphatically<br />
dry, purist ,with powerful astringent tannins, good substance.<br />
Still seems tight with excellent potential to mature.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
94 2018 »Mineral« Chardonnay trocken<br />
93 2018 »Reserve« Weissburgunder trocken<br />
91 2019 Schweigen Chardonnay trocken<br />
90 2019 »Kalkgestein«<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
90 2019 »Muschelkalk« Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 »Gelb & Gold Muskateller« tr. GM/GM6<br />
93 2018 Pinot Noir Beerenauslese<br />
91 2019 »Kalkmergel« Grauer Burgunder tr.<br />
Salmon colour (due to skin contact). On the nose, ripe peach<br />
and strawberry. On the palate one finds primary aromas as<br />
well as blackcurrant leaves. Medium body. Lively acidity<br />
leads to a very good finish. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
335
WEINGUT BECKER<br />
Im unteren Heissbühl, 76831 Ilbesheim<br />
T: +49 (6341) 3595, info@wein-gut-becker.de<br />
www.wein-gut-becker.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Peter Becker<br />
Contact: Helge and Fred Becker<br />
Hectares: 14 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
The Becker family of winemakers feel at<br />
ease with every category of wine: they<br />
presented five Spätlesen and four Kabinetts<br />
from the 2019 vintage. It was the Riesling<br />
Spätlese from the Ilbesheimer Kalmit site<br />
that impressed us most with its very mineral<br />
limestone character. All the wines show a convincing,<br />
natural balance – which may also<br />
point to the fact that the estate has been a Bioland<br />
member since 2011, farming their vineyards<br />
organically. The butterfly on the label<br />
symbolises this. The Beckers also have a talent<br />
for sparkling wine.<br />
90 2019 Ilbesheim Kalmit Riesling<br />
Spätlese trocken<br />
Ripe apple and stone fruit with a touch of leafiness, mirabelle<br />
and lemon peel. For a Spätlese this is slender and tightly<br />
built, juicy and spicy. Integrated acidity, beautiful chalky<br />
mineral base and character. A calm interpretation of the<br />
Kalmit site. 12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 Ilbesheim Rittersberg Auxerrois<br />
Spätlese trocken<br />
Quince and butternut squash on the nose, ripe honeydew<br />
melon, pear, candied walnuts and spices. Juicy and textured<br />
on the palate. A powerful structure, mild acidity but with fine<br />
phenolic layers. A Spätlese that is a pleasure to have at the<br />
table. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 Ilbesheim Rittersberg Chardonnay<br />
Spätlese trocken<br />
Juicy pear on the nose, with secondary apple and spicy notes,<br />
also plum and ripe citrus fruit. Again spicy on the palate with<br />
juice and texture combining to provide a strong structure.<br />
Dry impression. Chardonnay made for the table, versatile.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2018 Ilbesheim Kalmit Riesling brut<br />
Ripe stone fruit, citrus notes, smoke and yeast on the nose. A<br />
powerfully built Sekt with a well-developed body and taut<br />
acidity, harmoniously rounded on the palate with sweet stone<br />
fruit fruit at Spätlese level. This is a sparkling wine that also<br />
pleases with its structure. 13 Vol.-%. agglomerated cork, €<br />
89 2019 Ilbesheim Kalmit Weissburgunder<br />
Spätlese trocken<br />
89 2018 Pinot Blanc Sekt trocken<br />
88 2019 Sauvignon Blanc Kabinett trocken<br />
88 2019 Gewürztraminer Spätlese trocken<br />
88 2019 Grauer Burgunder Kabinett trocken<br />
88 2019 »Blanc de Noir« Spätburgunder<br />
Kabinett trocken<br />
88 2019 Spätburgunder Rosé<br />
Kabinett trocken<br />
89 2019 Leinsweiler Sonnenberg Riesling<br />
Spätlese trocken<br />
Ripe fruit notes on the nose, green apple and stone fruit,<br />
mirabelle plum and citrus fruit. Slenderly built on the palate,<br />
yet with good substance and content: the balanced<br />
acidity steers through a mineral body and fine phenolic layers.<br />
Will evolve. 12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
336 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT BERGDOLT<br />
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
Dudostrasse 17, 67435 Neustadt-Duttweiler<br />
T: +49 (6327) 5027, info@weingut-bergdolt.de<br />
www.weingut-bergdolt.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–12 hrs and<br />
14–18 hrs, Saturdays 10–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Rainer and Carolin Bergdolt<br />
Contact: Carolin Bergdolt<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 150,000 (90 % white, 10 % red)/24 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
Utmost care can be detected in each and<br />
every wine made by Carolin Bergdolt<br />
– as well as her devotion to the stylistic<br />
ideal of freshness. The superfine density of her<br />
Pinot wines and the scented purity of her Rieslings<br />
are exemplary. And yet nothing is ostentatious,<br />
all is calm, confident, beautifully<br />
sure-footed and stylistically coherent. It is a<br />
true joy to taste these wines. Carolin Bergdolt<br />
evidently knows how to write the current and<br />
future chapters of this 1754 founded estate –<br />
as well as that of the Weissburgunder tradition<br />
her father started.<br />
94 2019 Ruppertsberg Reiterpfad<br />
Achtmorgen Riesling GG<br />
Ripe citrus freshness is both immediate and vivid. Tangerine<br />
peel accompanies ripe stone fruit with zesty aromatics and<br />
frames the wine with freshness. The palate is ripe, smooth,<br />
almost viscous and yet fine. Bitter phenolics provide a counterpoint.<br />
13 Vol.-%. DIAM, €€€<br />
93 2018 Duttweiler Kalkberg Spätburgunder GG<br />
Some toast and snaste mask the ripe cherries on the nose<br />
but hint at depth and texture. Delicate, ripe fruit has freshness,<br />
density and fine, taut tannins. A calm, gentle interpretation<br />
of the vintage. Real class. 13,5 Vol.-%. DIAM, €€€<br />
92 2019 Duttweiler Mandelberg Lössriedel<br />
Weissburgunder Erste Lage trocken<br />
94 2018 Kirrweiler Mandelberg<br />
Weissburgunder GG<br />
Concentration and density are already apparent on the nose,<br />
with a wonderful scent of peel and pithy apple skin. The<br />
freshness on the palate is wonderfully sublime, cool and anchored<br />
in depth. Softness, density and focus within the texture<br />
are remarkable. 13,5 Vol.-%. DIAM, €€€<br />
93 2019 Deidesheim Mäushöhle Riesling<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
The aromatic combination of the finest creaminess and the<br />
scent of ripe tangerine peel is downright beguiling. It continues<br />
on the palate in the same way with aromatics, ripe,<br />
mouth-watering freshness, citrus-skinned texture and supple<br />
body. 12,5 Vol.-%. DIAM, €€<br />
93 2019 Duttweiler Mandelberg Riesling<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
The purest citrus scent fills the nose: a delicious synthesis<br />
of crushed, aromatic citrus leaves, lemon and ripe mandarine<br />
peel. The same ripe citrus characters are found on<br />
the palate. Invigorating, pure, fresh, joyful. Wonderful<br />
freshness and balance. 13,5 Vol.-%, DIAM, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
337
WEINGUT<br />
BERGDOLT-REIF UND NETT<br />
Dudostrasse 2, 67435 Neustadt-Duttweiler<br />
T: +49 (6327) 2803, info@weingut-brn.de<br />
www.weingut-brn.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Christian Nett<br />
Contact: Christian Nett<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 300,000 (60 % white, 40 % red)/30 ha<br />
The wines presented this year by Christian<br />
Nett and his team are modern and<br />
intense. Both red wines, made from the<br />
locally unusual varieties Cabernet Franc and<br />
Lagrein, are experimental. Evidently both<br />
these migrants (Cabernet Franc is at home in<br />
the Loire Valley, Lagrein in Alto Adige) are<br />
about to put down proper roots in the Pfalz: so<br />
ripe, so absolutely fruit-driven on the palate.<br />
We were also taken with the Sauvignon Blanc,<br />
part of the top premium series “Avantgarde” –<br />
with its full-bodied, almost primal force it demands<br />
proper bottle age. Eventually evolving<br />
into aromatic fireworks!<br />
92 2019 »Avantgarde« Sauvignon Blanc tr.<br />
Smoky wood and reductive varietal fruit; grapefruit, blackcurrant.<br />
Intense palate with smooth foundations, firm but<br />
polished acid backbone. A very taut, dense, salty Sauvignon<br />
Blanc made for bottle ageing. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 »Edition« Weissburgunder trocken<br />
91 2019 »Rebarrique« Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Discreet wood, tangerine and orange peel aromas. A robust<br />
body, filled to the brim with extract. Full-bodied with a soft<br />
base, pronounced acidity, dense and astonishingly balanced.<br />
Intensely mineral, a pithy Pinot Blanc.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
91 2018 »Avantgarde« Lagrein trocken<br />
Sour cherry on the nose alongside herbs and a very delicate<br />
wood spice; intense and fruity. On the palate extract-rich, a<br />
rich dose of finely grained tannins, sweet fruit, well-supporting<br />
ripe acidity, all very dense but without austerity. Has good<br />
potential. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2018 »Edition« Cabernet Franc trocken<br />
Blackcurrant, bitter almond, elderberry, very restrained.<br />
The palate shows discreetly toasty wood notes, fine tannins,<br />
creamy background, lively acidity with nice juiciness on the<br />
finish. Fruit-driven and accessible from really ripe grapes.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 »Nettswerk« Chardonnay trocken<br />
Golden yellow with greenish reflections. Lush aroma: asparagus,<br />
sultana, some wood. Homogeneous and powerful<br />
on the palate; slightly tangy, lively acidity, powerful body,<br />
integrated alcohol, still compact on the finish. Likely to<br />
mature to great opulence. 14 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
338 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT BERNHART<br />
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
Hauptstrasse 8, 76889 Schweigen-Rechtenbach<br />
T: +49 (6342) 7202, info@weingut-bernhart.de<br />
www.weingut-bernhart.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–13 hrs and<br />
14–17 hrs, Saturdays 9–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Gerd Bernhart<br />
Contact: Gerd Bernhart<br />
Hectares: 17 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
If the term “cross-border-commuter” is apt<br />
for a winemaker, then it’s Gerd Bernhart.<br />
Two thirds of this estate’s vineyards are<br />
located in Alsace. On the southern edge of the<br />
Pfälzer Wald, Bernhart utilizes the various soil<br />
types for different grape varieties: Calcareous<br />
marl makes for mineral Weiss- and Grauburgunders<br />
as well as profound Spätburgunders.<br />
Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are<br />
planted on the sandier parcels. We were particularly<br />
convinced by the Pinot varieties. The<br />
Spätburgunder Sonnenberg “KT” an absolutely<br />
outstanding Pinot Noir - made in the<br />
Pfalz.<br />
93 2019 »RG« Schweigen Sonnenberg<br />
Weissburgunder GG<br />
Apple and ripe citrus fruit on the nose, almonds, pear, floral<br />
notes and spice. On the palate there is good balance, ripe<br />
fruit, texture and juice. Evolves showing good substance,<br />
density and fine minerality; elegant and consistent. Good potential.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2019 »FG« Schweigen Sonnenberg<br />
Grauburgunder Erste Lage trocken<br />
Somewhat peppery on the nose, salted peanut, lime, also red<br />
berry, honeydew melon, blossom honey. Substantial, powerful<br />
palate with a dense acid core. Striking tension in a robust<br />
body - the finish is fresh and herbaceous. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
94 2017 »KT« Schweigen Sonnenberg<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Medium cherry red, light reflections at the rim. On the nose<br />
plenty of spice, tobacco, leather, ripe cherry, shattered rock,<br />
herbal spice, smoke. On the palate red fruits, cherry, texture,<br />
finely chiselled tannins - nice stature. Very Burgundian, good<br />
length. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2017 »RG« Schweigen Sonnenberg<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Clear, rich red, light red reflections at the rim. On the palate<br />
powerful cherry, spice, smoke, blackberry, redcurrants.<br />
Dense and spicy. Dense on the palate, red fruits, cherry again,<br />
spices, lots of texture. Finely woven and long. Very elegant.<br />
Potential. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2019 Schweigen Sonnenberg Riesling GG<br />
90 2019 »Kalkmergel« Schweigen<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
90 2018 »Tonmergel« Schweigen<br />
Chardonnay trocken<br />
90 2019 »Kalkmergel« Schweigen<br />
Grauburgunder trocken<br />
90 2019 »WB« Schweigen Sonnenberg<br />
Weissburgunder Erste Lage trocken<br />
92 2017 »WB« Schweigen Sonnenberg<br />
Spätburgunder Erste Lage trocken<br />
91 2017 »FG« Schweigen Sonnenberg<br />
Spätburgunder Erste Lage trocken<br />
91 2018 »Réserve« Chardonnay trocken<br />
Rich, clear yellow. On the nose smoke, shattered rock, fine<br />
vanilla and herbal spice all underpinned with fine minerality.<br />
Finely balanced acidity on the palate, lime zest, smoke<br />
and toast, yellow fruits. Lots of tension, still needs time.<br />
Has potential. 13 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
339
WEINGUT BIETIGHÖFER<br />
Oberdorfstrasse 13, 76831 Billigheim-Ingenheim<br />
T: +49 (6349) 8698, weingut@bietighoefer.de<br />
www.bietighoefer.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 9–14 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Stefan Bietighöfer<br />
Contact: Julia Jakob<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 150,000 (60 % white, 40 % red)/40 ha<br />
Stefan Bietighöfer has his work cut out.<br />
This Demeter-certified Winemaker<br />
farms 40 hectares of vineyards according<br />
to biodynamic principles. While he has<br />
vines in the Ilbesheimer Kalmit, not all his<br />
vineyards around the villages of Billigheim-Ingenheim<br />
are in such privileged sites. Yet, Bietighöfer<br />
knows how to imbue these wines<br />
with his notable signature, but without domineering<br />
force. These wines are no lightweights,<br />
they show substance and muscle and were<br />
made with a long life in mind, like the complex<br />
and minerally pervaded Weissburgunder<br />
Kalmit. Impressive!<br />
93 2017 Ilbesheim Kalmit Weissburgunder tr.<br />
Cumin on the nose, apple, cider and herbs. Compact build on<br />
the palate, the power is wrapped in a silky texture, fine extract<br />
bedded in several layers, tactile vein of acidity, good<br />
density and complexity, mineral - Burgundian style.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2018 »Grande Reserve« Chardonnay tr.<br />
Initially an almost discreet scent of apricot, peach and lemon<br />
zest. On the palate, there is a complex aroma of elderflower,<br />
young apple, pineapple and a light minerality. Very well balanced<br />
by tangy acidity with a good finish. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2018 Mühlhofen Roter Berg<br />
Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
The bouquet is dominated by toasted aromas and walnut<br />
along with ripe peach and mango. Soft on the palate with<br />
ripe acidity and fine spice. The power is well integrated into a<br />
generous body, restrained fruit. Predestined for a long life.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2014 »Grande Reserve« Spätburgunder tr.<br />
Garnet in hue. Very ripe on the nose; clove, ripe cherry, redcurrants<br />
and tomato leaf. On the palate there is fine acidity<br />
accompanying flavours of venison, plum, cedar and dried<br />
cranberry. Ripe tannins lead into a good finish.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2018 Grande Reserve Weissburgunder tr.<br />
89 2018 »Grande Reserve«<br />
Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
89 2019 »Reserve« Chardonnay trocken<br />
89 2019 »Reserve« Grauburgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 »Reserve« Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
90 2016 »Reserve« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
90 2018 »Dark Chocolate Reserve«<br />
trocken PN/PI/CS<br />
90 2019 »Reserve« Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Almost golden yellow in the glass. On the nose, a scent of<br />
lemon zest, honeydew melon and wet stone. On the palate,<br />
a fine herbal note accompanies flavours of white peach<br />
and pear supported by lively acidity. Elegant and exciting<br />
finish. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
340 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT BRAUN<br />
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
Hauptstrasse 51, 67149 Meckenheim<br />
T: +49 (6326) 8596, bws@braun-wein-sekt.de<br />
www.braun-wein-sekt.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–12 hrs and<br />
13–18.30 hrs, Saturdays 10–16.30 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Michael Braun and Kristoffer Grass<br />
Contact: Martin Braun<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 300,000 (60 % white, 40 % red)/40 ha<br />
Stasis is unthinkable to Michael and Martin<br />
Braun: by now they have inaugurated<br />
their new barrel cellar where the<br />
2018 red wines are still maturing. Wood, in<br />
any case, plays an important role for the brothers:<br />
even white wines like the savoury and<br />
firmly structured Riesling “2punkt0” are matured<br />
in 500-litre barrels. The impressive Portugieser<br />
from the 2017 vintage shows fine<br />
spice, resolved tannins and real depth. We are<br />
looking very much forward to tasting the<br />
2018 red wines and to seeing what the brothers<br />
do next.<br />
90 2019 »2punkt0 Unikat« Riesling trocken<br />
Ripe fruit and wood notes come together on the nose with<br />
peach and apricot to the fore, redcurrants. Spicy and juicy on<br />
the palate there is fine residual sweetness and ripe acidity.<br />
Ageing in wood reinforces the powerful and firm structure -<br />
good potential for cellaring. 13 Vol.-%. cork<br />
89 2017 »2punkt0 Unikat«<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 »Individuell« Meckenheim Neuberg<br />
Chardonnay trocken<br />
Yellow blossom on the nose, apricot and nashi pear, apple<br />
and orange zest. Juicy (apple and pear) and spicy on the palate<br />
with good substance; nicely rounded, ripe, well structured<br />
and integrated acidity. A smooth Chardonnay that<br />
would work on its own or with food. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap<br />
89 2019 »Auf der Höhe« Riesling trocken<br />
Classic Riesling nose with fresh aromas; apricot and peach,<br />
also apple and some citrus fruit. On the palate fruit and juice,<br />
slenderly built yet energetic, the acidity is ripe and playful<br />
leading to a spicy finish. Elegant. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap<br />
90 2017 »anno 1951 Unikat«<br />
Portugieser trocken<br />
Spicy nose with sweet cherry and juicy plum, herbs, almond<br />
kernel; not unlike Port. On the palate there is sweet fruit,<br />
soft, juicy plum and cherry, fine spice and mild, balanced<br />
acidity, finely textured tannins, deep. 14 Vol.-%. cork<br />
89 2019 »Individuell« Ellerstadt<br />
Kirchenstück Riesling trocken<br />
Apple blossom on the nose, apple and apricot, some passion<br />
fruit. Well balanced Riesling with compact structure,<br />
balanced acidity and clear, juicy apple and apricot fruit<br />
with fine spice. Has charm and style - lingers well on the<br />
palate. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
341
WEINGUT BREMER<br />
Brückenstrasse 2, 67308 Zellertal<br />
T: +49 (6355) 8639166, info@weingutbremer.de<br />
www.weingutbremer.de<br />
Cellar Door: Wednesdays through Fridays 14–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 11–17 hrs, May to July Sundays 11–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Michael Acker<br />
Contact: Rebecca Bremer, Brigitte Acker<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 60,000 (60 % white, 40 % red)/15 ha<br />
Thanks to the culinary talents of Rebecca<br />
Kremer, the Kremer family winery<br />
has been turned into a gastronomic<br />
hotspot of the Zeller valley. Of course, this<br />
also is a showcase for the wines they make; not<br />
only are these eminently and undeniably suited<br />
for the table, the current vintages also show<br />
a beautiful balance between mineral focus and<br />
unarguably present varietal fruit. Since the<br />
family took the estate over in 2013, the Bremer<br />
sisters and oenologist Michael Acker have<br />
also replanted the vineyards – the best is yet to<br />
come.<br />
94 2019 Zell Schwarzer Herrgott<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Citrus-scented, balsamic, limestone notes, coriander<br />
seed, cardamom, complex and fresh. Vivid, rich palate,<br />
slightly phenolic, delicate acidity, a tense palate layered<br />
with aromatic terpenes; robust and profound.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2019 Zell Königsweg Chardonnay trocken<br />
Discreet wood, very closed, with notes of flax, wet chalk and<br />
limestone. On the palate there is an equanimity that balances<br />
supple motifs with a taut acidity and a texture that intensifies<br />
on the finish. Ends compact, dense, gripping.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2019 Kleinkarlbach Frauenländchen<br />
Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Very reserved on the nose, tangerine, mirabelle, a hint of varietal<br />
spiciness, but nothing loud. A little lime. Ripe and round<br />
on the palate with a chalky texture and sweet fruit. Well integrated<br />
acidity and mineral notes refresh the palate.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2018 Zell Kreuzberg Philippsbrunnen<br />
Pinot Noir trocken<br />
Black cherry and plum, smooth and even creamy on the palate,<br />
then marked by dense, grainy tannins, strong alcohol but<br />
mild acidity - very extract-driven. Bay leaf and juniper on the<br />
finish, will be able to age for many years.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2019 Gelber Muskateller trocken<br />
89 2019 Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
89 2019 Rosé trocken<br />
92 2018 Niefernheim Apotheker<br />
Pinot Noir trocken<br />
89 2019 Auxerrois trocken<br />
A fragrance that shows more limestone than variety. The<br />
characteristics are definitely Auxerrois with notes of sesame<br />
and hay. Medium-bodied on the palate, well proportioned<br />
with ripe acidity. An unobtrusive food wine.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
342 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT BUCHERT<br />
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
Zum Ordenswald 34, 67435 Neustadt an der Weinstrasse<br />
T: +49 (6321) 670787, info@weingut-buchert.de<br />
pfalz.weingut-buchert.de<br />
Cellar Door: Tuesdays, Thursdays and<br />
Fridays 15–18 hrs, Saturdays 10–12 hrs and by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Matthias Buchert<br />
Contact: Stefanie and Matthias Buchert<br />
Hectares: 5 ha<br />
Matthias and Stefanie Buchert who run<br />
their five-hectare estate in Neustadt<br />
an der Weinstrasse together, do not<br />
seem to care much for convention. Quite a number<br />
of their wines are idiosyncratic in the best<br />
sense of the word. Like their Riesling “Holz 18”<br />
which unites noticeable sweetness and palpable<br />
wood influence which prompted one of our tasters<br />
to note down “sommelier wine”. Likewise,<br />
their rosé “Holz 18”, with its woody spice and<br />
real substance does not really comply with the<br />
cliché of an easy-drinking rosé. We also liked the<br />
red blend “Cuvée 14” with its powerful tannins,<br />
which would be perfect alongside Osso Buco.<br />
90 2018 »Holz 18« Riesling<br />
Deep yellow, ripe stone fruit and wood notes, some pineapple.<br />
Unusual Riesling with taut acidity and noticeable residual<br />
sweetness, also strong wood influence. Firm in structure,<br />
juicy and spicy, underpinned by a confident acidity. A sommelier<br />
wine. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
88 2019 »Blanc de Noirs« trocken<br />
89 2018 »Holz 18« Rosé Merlot trocken<br />
Unusual rosé from Merlot which was matured in barrique.<br />
Powerful aroma of wood spice and toasted aromas, roasted<br />
coffee beans and wild strawberry. Powerfully built on the<br />
palate, not a summer wine, has enough substance to accompany<br />
dishes with strong aromas. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2014 »Cuvée 14« trocken CS/SY/CF/ME/CI<br />
Cassis and cherry on the nose, blood orange and sage. Fine<br />
ripe aromas, balsamic spice. Powerful and compact on the<br />
palate, robust tannin structure, a peppery spiciness, elderberry,<br />
fruity nuances and also freshness. A bold wine for winter<br />
evenings or strong flavoured dishes.<br />
14,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
89 2013 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Slightly matured on the nose; balsamic spice, herbs, lovage,<br />
dark chocolate and cherry in kirsch, dark aromas, allspice,<br />
damp forest floor. Vivid acidity on the palate, powerful in<br />
structure with prominent tannins. Slightly drying, still fresh.<br />
14 Vol.-%. cork, €<br />
89 2019 »Knallweiss 19« SC/CB<br />
Sauvignac and Cabernet Blanc are the blend “Knallweiss<br />
19”. Spicy nose with citrus notes, lime zest and candied orange<br />
zest, yellow flowers. On the palate the vivid acidity initially<br />
dominates but the clear and sweet fruit is well balanced<br />
with lots of spice. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
343
WEINGUT REICHSRAT VON BUHL<br />
Weinstrasse 18–24, 67146 Deidesheim<br />
T: +49 (6326) 96500, info@von-buhl.de<br />
www.von-buhl.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 10–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays and Sundays 10–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Gregor Hofer<br />
Contact: Claus Raschka<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 450,000 (80 % white, 20 % red)/64 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
In the first year after the management<br />
change at this estate, the outlines of both<br />
changes and innovations are slowly becoming<br />
apparent. The wines appear to be<br />
made a little fruitier and have a touch more residual<br />
sweetness here and there than in previous<br />
years. Considering the exceptional site<br />
portfolio that this estate is blessed with, we<br />
can only hope that the site-affinity for Rieslings<br />
will be maintained. Special mention<br />
should also go to the Sekts which will benefit<br />
from the substantial holdings of reserve wines<br />
over the coming years.<br />
94 2018 Forst Ungeheuer Riesling GG<br />
Balsamic, spontaneous fermentation, spice, plus notes of<br />
mirabelle plum, apple skin and iron oxide. On the palate<br />
there are buttery phenolics, full and poised on the one hand,<br />
but also finely-nerved and juicy-mineral on the other. A subtle<br />
site and vintage style of great distinction.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2015 »Suez Vintage« Riesling brut nature<br />
Golden yellow in colour. Apple and apple skin, fine patina of<br />
maturity. The palate is very linear; lively mousse, striking<br />
acidity, lots of substance, almost chewy, juicy, purist in its<br />
structure. Very dry, ideal. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2018 Deidesheim Herrgottsacker<br />
Riesling Erste Lage trocken<br />
Distinct wood, coconut and aniseed biscuits, balsamic tones.<br />
Spicy rather than fruity. On the palate; silky, powerful, ripe<br />
phenolics, a powerful, sturdy construction, underlying viscosity<br />
meets fresh minerality. The vintage style dominates<br />
the site style. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 NV »Reserve« brut<br />
Yeasty, delicate and nuanced. Still closed with regards to the<br />
fruit. Lots of extract on the palate, ripe but firm acidity, medium-fine<br />
mousse, strong body. A vinous Sekt that would be exceptional<br />
as a food accompaniment. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2018 Deidesheim Kieselberg Riesling GG<br />
90 2018 Deidesheim Mäushöhle Riesling<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
89 2019 Deidesheim Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
88 2019 »Bone Dry« Riesling trocken<br />
90 2017 Rosé brut<br />
89 2019 »Bone Dry« Rosé trocken<br />
90 2019 Forst Riesling trocken<br />
Slightly floral, blood orange, yeasty spice. Opens with a<br />
mealy layer of phenolics, delicate sweetness and lively<br />
acidity. Lush mid-palate underpinned with sweet yellow<br />
fruit and suppleness. Shows the generosity of the village of<br />
Forst. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
344 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT A. CHRISTMANN<br />
Peter-Koch-Strasse 43, 67435 Neustadt-Gimmeldingen<br />
T: +49 (6321) 66039, info@weingut-christmann.de<br />
www.weingut-christmann.de<br />
Cellar Door: Thuesdays through Fridays 8–12 hrs and<br />
13–18 hrs, Saturdays 10–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Steffen and Sophie Christmann,<br />
Oskar Micheletti<br />
Contact: Steffen and Sophie Christmann<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 120,000 (75 % white, 25 % red)/21 ha<br />
Here at this renowned estate in Gimmeldingen,<br />
the seventh and eighth generation<br />
work hand in hand – while<br />
91-year-old grandfather Fritz Christmann is living<br />
proof that good wine keeps you young. Steffen<br />
Christmann is the strategist who converted<br />
the estate to biodynamic farming twenty years<br />
ago. Today he gives free rein to his talented<br />
daughter Sophie, who knows just how to make<br />
the most of it. For as long as we can remember,<br />
the Christmann-Rieslings have stylistically been<br />
à point – but we have never tasted a Spätburgunder<br />
as delicious as that of the 2018 vintage. Sophie<br />
Christmanns’s masterpiece. Compliments!<br />
94 2019 Königsbach Idig Riesling GG<br />
Spicy aromas, caraway, flint, bergamot. At first supple on the<br />
palate, then phenolically textured with the utmost delicacy,<br />
a vital vein of acidity gives juiciness and length. Slightly tactile<br />
minerality. Lots of substance, discreetly staged.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
spice and finely extracted tannins. Young, will mature well.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2019 Königsbach Ölberg<br />
Riesling Erste Lage trocken<br />
94 2019 Gimmeldingen Meerspinne im<br />
Mandelgarten Riesling GG<br />
Grapey and floral on the nose, good clarity and depth. A hint<br />
of carbon dioxide on the tongue, lean and juicy, racy acidity,<br />
exciting and fresh, almost electrifyingly mineral, harmonious<br />
and completely coherent despite the powerful acid kick.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
96 2018 Königsbach Idig Spätburgunder GG<br />
Finely woven scent of spices, cherry and herbs, blood orange<br />
and tea. Gripping and with traction on the palate. Finely polished<br />
tannins of high quality, showing grip and a fine vein of<br />
acidity, elegant and vivid. Finely extracted and finely woven<br />
displaying intensity and silkiness. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
93 2018 Gimmeldingen Biengarten<br />
Spätburgunder Erste Lage trocken<br />
Berry nose, cherry, fresh bay leaf, fine wood spice, smoky and<br />
stony notes. Taut and compact on the palate, fine phenolic<br />
tartness supports juicy fruit underpinned by chalky mineral<br />
90 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
Fresh freshly grated citrus zest, bergamot, herbal notes.<br />
Tense and juicy on the palate, a lively acid backbone carries<br />
the lean but expressive body, mineral-based, fresh and<br />
light-footed with very good length. Stylish entry-level<br />
wine. 11,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
345
WINZERVEREIN DEIDESHEIM<br />
Prinz-Rupprecht-Strasse 8, 67146 Deidesheim<br />
T: +49 (6326) 9688 0<br />
v.fromm@winzervereindeidesheim.de<br />
www.winzervereindeidesheim.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Saturdays 9–18 hrs,<br />
Sundays 10–18 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Bruno Klüpfel<br />
Contact: Steven Kärgel<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 2,000,000/165 ha<br />
When it comes to its top range of<br />
wines, the cooperative that is Winzerverein<br />
Deidesheim can easily<br />
compete with well-known Pfalz estates. Their<br />
2018 Riesling “Edition” from the Deidesheimer<br />
Grainhübel site won lots of admiration<br />
around our tasting circle. Its counterpart from<br />
the Deidesheimer Kieselberg also received<br />
much praise. The other wines are also of a remarkable<br />
standard. It really is impressive<br />
what cellar master Bruno Klüpfel and his team<br />
can deliver – after all, they have an annual output<br />
of around two million bottles.<br />
93 2018 »Edition« Deidesheim Grainhübel<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Candied lemon peel, flint on the nose, plump and poised on<br />
the palate. Generous but mild phenolics create a very velvety<br />
yet powerful texture; a lot of minerality, a lot of substance,<br />
texture and vivacious freshness. A generous, very complete<br />
single-site Riesling. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
92 2018 »Edition« Deidesheim Kieselberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Grated lemon peel, very fresh and clear, slightly smoky<br />
notes. The palate has a supple attack; lots of juiciness, round<br />
and creamy, silky phenolics, powerful, homogeneous, long.<br />
Ripe but supporting acidity. A single-site Riesling with expression<br />
and real nobility. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 »Edition« Chardonnay<br />
Im Holzfass gereift trocken<br />
Sweet popcorn, raspberry, citrus, buttery undertones on the<br />
nose, also yeasty and herbaceous notes. Creamy on the palate,<br />
strong body, discreet wood spice, fine, long lasting vein<br />
of acidity. A gastronomic Chardonnay with successful use of<br />
wood. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2018 Deidesheim Grainhübel<br />
Riesling Auslese<br />
Distinctive floral and also mineral nose; graphite, honey,<br />
fresh hay, orange peel and a light petrol note. On the palate a<br />
fine tart sweetness with crunchy and dynamic acidity. Citrus-fresh<br />
and a slightly astringent finish.<br />
10 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2018 Forst Riesling Kabinett<br />
Im Holzfass gereift trocken<br />
89 2019 Deidesheim Leinhöhle<br />
Riesling Kabinett feinherb<br />
89 2019 Gewürztraminer Kabinett<br />
90 2019 »Blanc de Noir«<br />
Spätburgunder feinherb<br />
89 2018 »Edition« Spätburgunder<br />
Im Holzfass gereift trocken<br />
89 2018 Dornfelder trocken<br />
88 2018 Merlot Im Holzfass gereift trocken<br />
91 2018 »Edition« Deidesheim<br />
Paradiesgarten Riesling trocken<br />
Closed on the nose, citrus-fruity, a little grapefruit. Compact<br />
on the palate, vivid with some suppleness and a layer<br />
of delicate phenolics, but above all with a lively acidity and<br />
a hint of sweetness. Substantial and balanced, fresh and<br />
exciting. Good length. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
346 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT D<strong>ENGL</strong>ER-SEYLER<br />
Weinstrasse Süd 6, 67487 Maikammer<br />
T: +49 (6321) 5103, info@dengler-seyler.de<br />
www.dengler-seyler.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Matthias Seyler<br />
Contact: Eva Seyler<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 100,000 (80 % white, 20 % red)/15 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
Eva and Matthias Seyler are the fourth<br />
generation of their family to run the Dengler-Seyler<br />
estate with its 15 hectares of<br />
vineyards. Since 2018, they have had an organic<br />
vineyard with a concentrated focus on Riesling<br />
and the Pinot varieties which count for more<br />
than 80% of plantings. There’s also some<br />
Muskateller, Scheurebe and Gewürztraminer.<br />
“The fact that everything is done by hand, from<br />
pruning to harvesting, is a key element of our<br />
work,” the couple reports. We tasted a range of<br />
wines with characterful Rieslings, a concentrated<br />
Spätburgunder and a really enjoyable Muskateller.<br />
All in all, most successful!<br />
91 2019 Maikammer Am Heiligen Berg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Spicy and floral hints on the nose, apple and plum, warm<br />
stone and thyme. On the palate there is good balance and<br />
complexity; the elements are well integrated. Juicy, ripe<br />
acidity, and texture have clearly defined proportions. Elegant.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2017 Maikammer Heiligenberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Sweet cherry and floral notes on the nose are followed by violets,<br />
fine spice, candied orange peel, a touch of smoke. Powerfully<br />
built; a dense Pinot with extract and concentration,<br />
juice, spice and also elegance. Well integrated wood, finely<br />
balanced with plenty of substance to allow for further maturity.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2019 Maikammer Chardonnay trocken<br />
90 2019 Alsterweiler Kapellenberg<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Initially ripe citrus fruit, mango and mirabelle on the nose,<br />
later toasted aromas and vanilla. Strong and firm structure<br />
on the palate, ripe acidity, sweet extract, good substance and<br />
weight, multi-layered and rich. Good ageing potential.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2019 Maikammer Im obern Weinsper<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Peach and apricot on the classic nose with apple and spice,<br />
hints of stone. Soft and juicy on the palate initially with finely<br />
chiselled acidity. Powerfully built, pure, sweet fruit, elegant<br />
and supple. Fine, classic style, good length.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 Gelber Muskateller trocken<br />
Fruity nose showing a blade of mace and nutmeg, apricot<br />
and passion fruit. A buoyant and cheerful palate of slender<br />
construction; ripe fruit with fine sweetness combines with<br />
fresh acidity. Clear and pure in expression. For summer afternoons<br />
or as an aperitif. 11,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
347
WEINGUT ECK<br />
Leinsweiler Strasse 31, 67294 Ilbesheim<br />
T: +49 (6341) 32046, info@weingut-eck.de<br />
www.weingut-eck.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Saturdays<br />
by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Jasmin and Jürgen Eck<br />
Contact: Jasmin Eck<br />
Hectares: 13 ha<br />
For more than 300 years the Eck family<br />
has making wines. Master Winzer Jürgen<br />
Eck now runs the family estate in Ilbesheim<br />
with its 13 hectares of vineyard. He<br />
mainly looks after the vineyards while daughter<br />
Jasmin, after graduating from Geisenheim<br />
and a stint in South Africa, now enlivens both<br />
cellar and packaging with new ideas. “Both<br />
passion and experience play important roles,”<br />
this father-daughter-team reports. The wines<br />
clearly show that something is afoot here, like<br />
the finely balanced Weissburgunder from the<br />
Ilbesheimer Kalmit site.<br />
90 2019 Ilbesheim Rittersberg<br />
Chardonnay trocken<br />
A little coconut on the nose, delicate smoke, quince peel, apple<br />
and pear, also yellow fruit and a touch of honey. Powerful<br />
and firmly built on the palate; sweet extract, juice and spice.<br />
A generous Chardonnay with an international touch and a<br />
Pfalz signature. Will evolve. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
acidity. The tannins are vivid and a touch astringent, ideal.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
88 2019 Spätburgunder Rosé trocken<br />
89 2019 »Alte Reben« Riesling trocken<br />
Ripe mirabelle plum on the nose, citrus fruit, apple with a<br />
trace of leafiness. A well built and multi-layered Riesling<br />
with spice and juice, good fullness, medium extract, showing<br />
freshness with vivid acidity. Animating to drink, straightforward,<br />
citric on the finish. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
88 2019 Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Spicy nose of grapefruit, redcurrants, green pepper and also<br />
herbal notes and a hint of leafiness. Fresh on the palate with<br />
an invigorating acid structure, straightforward and with good<br />
traction, fine juice, notes of apricot and spice again. A good<br />
summer wine and aperitif. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2018 Göcklingen Kaiserberg<br />
Frühburgunder trocken<br />
Herbal nose, delicate wood spice, cherry as well as plum and<br />
vanilla notes, somewhat ethereal. Good varietal depiction<br />
with fruity fullness and spice in a medium-body, balanced<br />
90 2019 Ilbesheim Kalmit Weissburgunder tr.<br />
Tangerine, mirabelle plum and apricot on the nose, delicate<br />
spice and floral notes, also apple. An elegant Pinot<br />
Blanc with good structure and balance, a refined juiciness<br />
and well-woven acidity in addition to mineral tones. Successfully<br />
shows the terroir of the Kalmit.<br />
13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
348 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT EYMANN<br />
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
Ludwigstrasse 35, 67161 Gönnheim<br />
T: +49 (6322) 2808, info@weinguteymann.de<br />
www.weingut-eymann.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–12 hrs and<br />
13–19 hrs, Saturdays 10–19 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Vincent Eymann<br />
Contact: Rainer Eymann<br />
Hectares: 18 ha<br />
That’s what we call a vertical take-off:<br />
Vincent Eymann, not even 29 years old,<br />
presented his wines for tasting for the<br />
first time and we immediately nominated him<br />
as our “newcomer of the year” (see page 22).<br />
Eymann’s father Rainer was among Germany’s<br />
organic farming pioneers in the 1980s. He<br />
started farming biodynamically in 2003 and<br />
from 2016 onwards, the estate has been a<br />
member of Demeter. Vincent Eymann farms<br />
18 hectares, his focus is on Riesling, Spätburgunder<br />
and sparkling wine. His wines show a<br />
grandiose natural balance and depth. Compliments!<br />
93 2019 Bad Dürkheim Fuchsmantel<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Closed on the nose; discreet citrus fruit, mineral and spicy<br />
notes. Supple approach on the palate, poised style, very<br />
fine acidity, mineral and multi-layered. Still very young with<br />
authentic site expression and finesse. Very good potential.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
toasted aromas but at just the right measure. Well integrated<br />
wood. Made with a good sense of style.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 »Toreye Ménage à trois«<br />
trocken CH/WB/PG<br />
91 2019 »Toreye Alte Reben« Riesling trocken<br />
Citrusy on the nose, candied lemon peel and light stone<br />
fruit. Powerful palate - juicy with vivid acidity, good fruit;<br />
there’s a gracefulness despite its power and a very fine layer<br />
of phenolics. Mineral tinged, still youthful.<br />
12 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
93 2018 Gönnheim Sonnenberg<br />
Pinot Noir trocken<br />
Pinot scented; spicy wood, cherry and pinot berry fruit. On<br />
the palate dense, ripe tannins, almost meaty in impression<br />
and then an incredibly fine, elegant spiciness and clear<br />
mineral definition. Great potential for further ageing.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2018 »Toreye« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Nuances of wood, closed, slightly spicy, red berries and<br />
spicy Pinot fruit in the background. The palate is full bodied<br />
but light-hearted with almond tones, cocoa and lightly<br />
89 2019 Gönnheim Riesling trocken<br />
Nectarine, intense yellow fruit including peach on the<br />
nose. On the palate there is lively acidity, straightforward<br />
construction with a hint of sweetness and with yellow-fruited<br />
notes. Medium weight in extract and fullness,<br />
tasty and balanced. Good length, a proper estate Riesling.<br />
12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
349
WEINGUT FADER KASTANIENHOF<br />
Theresienstrasse 62, 76835 Rhodt unter Rietburg<br />
T: +49 (6323) 5193, info@wein-fader.de<br />
www.wein-fader.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Saturdays 8–12 hrs<br />
and 13–18 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Knut Fader<br />
Contact: Knut Fader<br />
Hectares: 17 ha<br />
Looking at Knut Fader and his Kastanienhof<br />
estate, we think that this may<br />
be the time to sing the praises of<br />
Gewürztraminer. In the previous year, the<br />
wine became our Falstaff-Tip; this year, the<br />
Gewürztraminer “Réserve” 2019 from the<br />
Rhodter Rosengarten site received a score of<br />
92 points and is positioned at the top of a very<br />
balanced and attractive range of wines. How<br />
often is a Gewürztraminer described as “a<br />
most animating wine with a long echo”, as one<br />
of our tasters noted. And animating is the<br />
correct term, as the wine also inspires culinary<br />
fantasies.<br />
90 2019 Rhodt Schlossberg Riesling trocken<br />
Fresh and clear on the nose; scents of lemon, lime, green apple<br />
and pineapple. On the palate pear, apricot and lemon zest<br />
join in, accompanied by fine acidity. Medium body - a wine<br />
with balance and an exciting finish. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2018 »Réserve« Rhodt Klosterpfad<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon trocken<br />
90 2019 »Alte Reben« Rhodt Rosengarten<br />
Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
Pale golden yellow with aromas of white peach, ripe pear,<br />
lemon and hazelnut. At least medium bodied on the palate,<br />
melon and orange zest flavours are supported by a good acid<br />
structure and a good finish. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 »Réserve« Hainfeld Letten<br />
Chardonnay trocken<br />
Golden yellow in colour. Intense aromas; smoke, ripe yellow<br />
apple, clove and pineapple, complemented on the palate by<br />
flavours including vanilla, blackcurrant leaf and lemon peel<br />
all carried by a lively acidity and a good finish.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 »Réserve« Hainfeld Letten<br />
Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Medium lemon yellow. A fragrance of apricot, ripe apple and<br />
lemon. On the palate typical grape variety aromas of gooseberry,<br />
grapefruit, honeydew melon and young green pepper.<br />
A good acid structure for a medium-bodied wine.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
92 2019 »Réserve« Rhodt Rosengarten<br />
Gewürztraminer trocken<br />
A fine varietal aroma of rosebud petals, lemon peel, grapefruit<br />
and lychee in the glass. On the palate very pleasing<br />
acidity balances these complex aromas, complemented by<br />
tangerine and pear compote flavours. A very animated<br />
wine with a long finish. 13,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
350 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT STEFAN FISCHER<br />
Kirchstrasse 2, 76889 Schweighofen<br />
T: +49 (6342) 7197, info@stefan-fischer-weingut.de<br />
www.stefan-fischer-weingut.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Stefan Fischer<br />
Contact: Birgit Fischer<br />
Hectares: 40 ha<br />
Stefan Fischer’s winery sits in Schweighofen<br />
at the southernmost tip of the<br />
Pfalz, a stone’s throw away from the Alsace.<br />
Fischer founded the estate straight after<br />
his vintner apprenticeship in the early 1990s –<br />
an absolutely remarkable growth. A quick<br />
glance at our tasting notes shows, why the<br />
Fischer family is so successful: “Uncomplicated,<br />
open-minded and convivial” is how the<br />
Fischers themselves describe their wine style<br />
and all we can do is confirm that: these wines<br />
that put the grape variety in the spotlight are<br />
so clear, so harmonious that a second glass is<br />
just irresistible!<br />
89 2019 »Cuvée 3 Punkt 0« KR/WB/RR<br />
Grapefruit and smoky notes, classic aromas of Scheurebe,<br />
followed by blood orange, orange marmalade, allspice and<br />
coriander seed. Crunchy acidity on the palate, loads of juice,<br />
good extract, slight viscosity with sweetness underpinning<br />
the spiciness. Aromatic finish. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
88 2019 Silvaner feinherb<br />
89 2019 »Classic« Riesling<br />
Peach and lemon on the nose, as well as a slightly nutty undertone<br />
and notes of flint. Juicy on the palate, crunchy acidity<br />
and comparatively generous sweetness. Good density,<br />
high intensity and excellent interplay; an appetising off-dry<br />
classic. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
88 2019 Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Nectarine, kiwi and green gooseberry, smoky notes. Juicy<br />
acidity, tight construction, medium-weight in extract, alcoholic<br />
drive, a fiery Sauvignon Blanc with a striking acid backbone<br />
that is not entirely free of greenish motifs.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
88 2019 Grauburgunder trocken<br />
Light golden in colour. Lush, highly ripe fruit, buttery, apricot,<br />
slightly peppery, peat. Corpulent and compact on the palate,<br />
lively acidity and well integrated residual sweetness. A dry<br />
tasting Pinot Gris that is recommended as a food wine.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2019 Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Nutty on the nose, spring meadow flowers, herbal tones,<br />
hay and green apple. On the palate soft and supple on the<br />
attack with a delicate, restrained sweetness, roundly embedded<br />
acidity and vivid savouriness on the finish . A fine,<br />
very well balanced varietal style. 13,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
351
WEINGUT FITZ-RITTER<br />
Weinstrasse Nord 51, 67098 Bad Dürkheim an der Weinstrasse<br />
T: +49 (6322) 5389, johann.fitz@fitz-ritter.de<br />
www.fitz-ritter.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays and Sundays 11– 17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Achim Eberle and Max Fisch<br />
Contact: Johann Fitz and Felix Wagemann<br />
Hectares: 25 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
Things are happening at this renowned<br />
Weingut in Bad Dürkheim: the wines<br />
clearly show that the team surrounding<br />
Johann Fitz does not miss a beat. New construction<br />
is ahead for a cellar that will make<br />
pumps largely redundant and enable far more<br />
gentler handling of the grapes. The upward<br />
trajectory is already evident. Not only can we<br />
taste the first class fruit that went into the Riesling<br />
from the Michelsberg site, we also taste<br />
the intuition that went into making it. We are<br />
curious to see what will come out of the new<br />
cellar.<br />
93 2019 Bad Dürkheim Michelsberg Riesling GG<br />
Some wood and an almost Burgundy-like fruit: more berry<br />
than stone fruit or citrus. On the palate there’s a noble suppleness,<br />
wood flavours supported within the phenolic structure,<br />
good density. A touch of sweetness ensures complete<br />
harmony. 13 Vol.-%. cork<br />
92 2019 »De Edle Wilde« Riesling trocken<br />
Wood initially, then very floral - jasmine, rose; also basil and<br />
rosemary blossom. Plump with a soft opening and smooth<br />
sweetness. Moderately fine phenolics are becalmed by<br />
creaminess and mildness. Refined acidity, long finish.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork<br />
91 2016 Bad Dürkheim Hochbenn Riesling Brut<br />
Fresh fragrant nose; white flowers, burnt sugar, white currant,<br />
grass clippings, hay. On the palate fragrant and textural;<br />
juicy, beautifully fine mousse, soft mouthfeel, cheerfully<br />
elegant and vinous! 11,5 Vol.-%. cork<br />
93 2019 Bad Dürkheim Abtsfronhof<br />
Gewürztraminer Spätlese<br />
Ripe and very clear: rose, lychee, smoky tones. You can literally<br />
see the ripe berries in front of you. On the palate, a supple<br />
attack, poised sweetness, fine yet playful acidity, but very<br />
fresh for all its roundness and fullness. Stylish and elegant!<br />
10 Vol.-%. screwcap<br />
91 2019 Bad Dürkheim Fuchsmantel<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
91 2019 Bad Dürkheim Spielberg<br />
Chardonnay trocken<br />
91 2019 Ungestein Herrenberg Riesling GG<br />
89 2019 Wachenheim<br />
Grauburgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 »RebArena« Bad Dürkheim<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 Bad Dürkheim<br />
Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
91 2015 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
91 2019 Bad Dürkheim Abtsfronhof<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Smoky, terpene-borne spice, grapefruit. Quite round and<br />
soft in the attack, but also fresh with fine acidity, elegant<br />
rounding on the mid-palate before spicy layers unfold<br />
again. A very delicate, light-hearted yet multifaceted Riesling.<br />
13 Vol.-%, screwcap<br />
352 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT<br />
MARTIN & GEORG FUSSER<br />
Friedhofstrasse 7, 67150 Niederkirchen<br />
T: +49 (6326) 259782, info@mfg-wein.de<br />
www.mfg-wein.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Georg and Martin Fusser<br />
Contact: Georg Fusser<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 60,000 (80 % white, 20 % red)/14 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
93 2018 Kallstadt Saumagen Riesling trocken<br />
Beginning to unfold on the nose: balsamic and limestone<br />
spice notes, floral, a mineral reduction hovers. Drive on the<br />
palate, broad body, profound extract, layers of suppleness<br />
and viscosity, ripe acidity. Great potential.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
Last year we were rather taken by the<br />
wines the Fusser brothers presented and<br />
this year we can simply state: at this level<br />
they are rather close to receiving their fourth<br />
star. The breath-taking growth over the past<br />
years was evidently accomplished without any<br />
sacrifice of quality. Totally in line with the vintage,<br />
the 2018 single-site Rieslings show good<br />
substance and are somewhat broader, than<br />
those of the 2019 vintage, which are utterly precise.<br />
The two Spätburgunders from the Deidesheimer<br />
Mäushöhle and Herrgottsacker sites<br />
prove that the brothers also know how to handle<br />
Pinot Noir. Wines with real style!<br />
90 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
91 2018 Ruppertsberg Reiterpfad<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
A hint of wood spice, curry and citrus, overall fruit and spice<br />
still seem closed. Supple on the palate, vivid mineral motifs,<br />
ripe acidity, powerful alcohol, a little broad in structure, but<br />
mineral and with good extract. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
93 2017 Deidesheim Mäushöhle<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Initially very reductive on the nose, only slowly opens into<br />
notes of sour cherry and cranberry. Very dense on the palate,<br />
juicy and with a fine nerve. Mineral tinged, with supple extract,<br />
tight and full of potential. A Pinot with style.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2017 Deidesheim Herrgottsacker<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Milk chocolate and dark berries, elderberry, blackberry. On<br />
the palate dense, fine grained, fresh tannins fill the frame<br />
well, lively sophisticated acidity. A full bodied Pinot with<br />
good fruit made for bottle ageing. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2019 Ruppertsberg Riesling trocken<br />
Initially peach on the nose, then nectarine and pineapple,<br />
well-captured ripe but not overripe fruit. Smooth on the<br />
palate and at the same time also juicy and fine-boned.<br />
Slightly salty undertones, very good substance for Ortswein.<br />
Impeccable balance, very good length.<br />
13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
353
WEINGUT GABEL<br />
Weinstrasse 45, 67273 Herxheim<br />
T: +49 (6353) 7462, wein@weingut-gabel.de<br />
www.weingut-gabel.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 13–17 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Oliver Gabel<br />
Contact: Oliver Gabel<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 120,000 (60 % white, 40 % red)/21 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
Oliver Gabel confidently materializes the<br />
potential of his local terroirs: the soils<br />
in and around Herxheim are characterised<br />
by limestone. Thus, the young winemaker<br />
has put his focus on Pinot-varieties, especially<br />
Weiss- and Spätburgunder. As of 2019, Gabel<br />
has farmed his vineyards organically. He puts<br />
particular importance on the ageing of his<br />
wines in wood, the oldest barrels in his cellar<br />
are 130 years old – and are still used for fermentation<br />
and maturation in his 19th-century cellar.<br />
All the Pinots show tension, spice and nuances<br />
of limestone minerality – as well as Gabel’s<br />
clear hallmark. A strong performance!<br />
91 2019 Bissersheim Steig<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Yellow blossom on the nose, apple, cider, yellow-fruited hints<br />
and fine wood spice a hint of yeast. Dry on the palate, without<br />
kitsch or cliché Burgundian in impression with Pfalz character.<br />
Powerful, clearly defined outline, shows spice, substance<br />
and depth. Youthful. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
relatively lean and tight structure, vivid acidity, prominent<br />
and ripe tannins, spicy fruit on the finish.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
89 2017 »Tradition« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
91 NV »Blanc de Blancs« brut nature<br />
Nuanced complex nose with fine spiciness, discreet fruit,<br />
yeast notes and a hint of iodine. Lively acid structure, apple<br />
tart hints, juicy citrus fruit. A balanced sparkling wine, fresh,<br />
multi-layered and complemented by a delicate saltiness.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2015 »Réserve« Herxheim Honigsack<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Finely woven nose with a hint of wood spice, red cherry, clove<br />
and also anise. Not a bold Pinot. Finely balanced on the palate<br />
with exquisitely chiselled acidity and ripe, textured tannins.<br />
Sour cherry, bay leaf and almond core - elaborate.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2017 Herxheim Honigsack<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Lots of cassis on the nose against a spicy wood background,<br />
also beetroot, juniper berry and dark aromas. Complexity in a<br />
90 2019 »Tradition« Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Apple and raisins, flowers and floral notes, some wood<br />
spice and yeast. Lean construction, juicy and creamy on<br />
the palate, emphatically dry, ripe and balanced acidity,<br />
chalky mineral spiciness, again apple and white pepper. A<br />
pleasure to have on the table. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
354 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
DER GLÜCKSJÄGER<br />
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
Raiffeisenstrasse 5, 67482 Venningen<br />
T: +49 (6323) 5505, info@dergluecksjaeger.de<br />
www.dergluecksjaeger.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Andreas Pfaffmann-Wiedemann<br />
Contact: Andreas Pfaffmann-Wiedemann<br />
Hectares: 2 ha<br />
How wonderful when there’s a breath<br />
of fresh air! Imagination, experimentation<br />
but also something really tangible<br />
are at play here at Andreas Pfaffmann-Wiedemann’s<br />
new project. The labels<br />
clearly show that both authenticity and craft<br />
can indeed be presented in an uncomplicated,<br />
unstuffy fashion. Unusual, unconventional<br />
taste pleasures should simply be fun. With varieties<br />
like Grüner Veltliner and Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
Pfaffmann-Wiedemann has left the<br />
well-trodden Pfalz path, while the remarkable<br />
Sauvignon Blanc, Weissburgunder and Riesling<br />
stand like guards of honour.<br />
91 2019 Sauvignon Blanc Landwein trocken<br />
Some boxwood plays on the creamy nose, there’s also a<br />
touch of passion fruit, smoke and nettle. Fragrant and promising.<br />
On the palate concentrated golden, ripe stone fruit and<br />
juicy lemon appear embedded on yeasty, cloudy creaminess.<br />
Delicious. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
tamed into velvet on a juicy, gluggable but aromatic body.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
89 2019 Veltliner Landwein trocken<br />
91 2019 Weissburgunder Landwein trocken<br />
Creamy, smoky hints float pleasantly and promisingly on the<br />
nose. The palate is round and fresh and the creaminess is interspersed<br />
with a wonderful lemony freshness that gives the<br />
whole wine a graceful lightness without sacrificing the<br />
smooth texture. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2018 »Reserve« Sauvignon Blanc<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
Pronounced creaminess on the nose reminiscent of banana<br />
yoghurt. Only on the palate comes freshness - the gentle,<br />
ripe but pure fruit - the slightly smoky, nutty touch of oak elegantly<br />
framed by the citrus fruit; both freshness and texture<br />
have long resonance. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2018 »Reserve« Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
Wonderful dark plum and smoky blackberry fruit flirts from<br />
the glass. There is even a fragrant hint of cassis. The palate is<br />
juicy and the otherwise boisterous tannins of this variety are<br />
90 2019 Riesling Landwein trocken<br />
Both fresh and candied orange zest rise from the glass<br />
with convincing ripeness and freshness. The palate is similar,<br />
fresh but also round, ripe and wonderfully aromatic. A<br />
slightly yeasty texture and lemony finish make you want to<br />
take another sip. 13 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
355
WEINGUT GRAF VON WEYHER<br />
Borngasse 7, 76835 Weyher in der Pfalz<br />
T: +49 (6323) 98 00 64, info@graf-von-weyher.de<br />
www.graf-von-weyher.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Peter Graf<br />
Contact: Otmar and Jürgen Graf<br />
Hectares: 180,000 (75 % white, 25 % red)<br />
There are numerous winemakers who<br />
exhibit soil profiles in their tasting<br />
rooms to exemplify the differences in<br />
the wines. At Weingut Graf von Weyher it is<br />
sufficient to simply taste the Rieslings side by<br />
side in order to grasp the different influences<br />
of “Kalkmergel” (calcareous marl), “Granit”<br />
and “Schiefer” (slate). It is a very practice-oriented<br />
lesson that combines learning with<br />
pleasure. In any case, what brothers Peter and<br />
Jürgen Graf deliver makes complete sense.<br />
Their savoury Spätburgunder from the Rhodter<br />
Rosengarten site is a success, too. This is<br />
the sort of geology course we all like to take!<br />
91 2018 »Buntsandstein« Weyher<br />
Michelsberg Riesling trocken<br />
Apple, verbena and apricot on the nose, lime zest, a touch of<br />
cumin and aniseed. Relaxed on the palate, well built in stature,<br />
ripe acidity, balanced and harmonious, fine spice and<br />
mineral notes line the back palate. Clear profile.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
substance and volume, broad and powerful; dark, ripe cherries<br />
again, spicy with prominent tannins. Made for the table.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
88 2019 Rhodt Schlossberg<br />
Cabernet Blanc trocken<br />
90 2019 »Schiefer« Burrweiler Altenforst<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Classic Riesling nose with peach and apricot, lemon notes<br />
and a subtle slate spiciness. Medium extract on the palate,<br />
relaxed mouthfeel, ripe acidity, nice spiciness and minerality<br />
that lingers nicely. Classic style and a wonderful expression<br />
of soil. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 »Kalkmergel« Weyher Michelsberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Wet stone on the nose along with stone fruit such as ripe<br />
peach and apricot. On the palate, the self-confident acidity<br />
and fruit sweetness enter into a little duet, beautiful interplay.<br />
A harmoniously rounded wine accompanied by chalky<br />
mineral texture. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2018 Rhodt Rosengarten<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Dark cherry on the nose with spice, cinnamon stick, bay leaf<br />
and cloves, wood notes and beetroot. On the palate there is<br />
90 2019 »Granit« Burrweiler Altenforst<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
A bouquet as if from a vineyard after summer rain, wet<br />
stone, herbs, leafy green, plus apple and tangerine. On the<br />
palate there is an agile acidity accompanied by a little fruit<br />
sweetness, darker, stony notes and a steely minerality that<br />
provides character. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
356 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT GRASSMÜCK<br />
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
Eichplatz 4, 76831 Birkweiler<br />
T: +49 (6345) 3630, wein@weingut-grassmueck.de<br />
weingut-grassmueck.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Simon Grassmück<br />
Contact: Simon Grassmück<br />
Hectares: 11 ha<br />
A<br />
nice trip down memory lane,” noted<br />
one of our tasters about the rather classical<br />
Grauburgunder Spätlese from the<br />
Birkweiler Rosenberg site, which also happens<br />
to bear a historic label: after all, Weingut Grassmück<br />
in Birkweiler was founded as early as<br />
1667. What a pairing this wine would be with<br />
roast haunch of venison with cranberry sauce<br />
and Spätzle! Yet, Simon Grassmück also likes to<br />
experiment and show courage. He does so with<br />
“Quantum S”, an unusual barrique-aged blend<br />
of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and<br />
Scheurebe, showing both density and fruity<br />
charm. Grassmück clearly has courage!<br />
90 2019 »Quantum S« trocken CH/SB/SÄ<br />
Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Scheurebe, matured in<br />
barrique. Spice on the nose, smoke, pear, cassis and mango.<br />
Juicy and spicy. On the palate there’s balanced acidity, well<br />
judged power, density and fruity charm. An unusual combination<br />
that has been done well. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2018 Birkweiler Mandelberg<br />
Pinot Noir trocken<br />
Dark cherry fruit on the concentrated nose; a little soy sauce,<br />
cranberry jam and wood perfume. Powerful and bold on the<br />
palate with prominent tannins and lots of substance, the alcohol<br />
is well integrated, the acidity vivid. Spicy and consistent<br />
- ideal. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
87 2019 »Pinot Blanc de Noir« Birkweiler<br />
Königsgarten feinherb<br />
89 2019 Birkweiler Rosenberg<br />
Grauburgunder Spätlese trocken<br />
Roasted walnuts, chestnut puree and ripe pear show on the<br />
nose, also some rose. A classic dry Spätlese with power, fruit,<br />
juice, spice and a dash of sweetness. This could have come<br />
from Baden and be called Ruländer - a nice excursion into the<br />
past. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
88 2019 Sauvignon Blanc Kabinett trocken<br />
Powerful and ripe fruit notes of mango and blackcurrant on<br />
the nose, lush and spicy bouquet, some lemongrass. On the<br />
palate there is luscious fruit, lively acidity provides momentum,<br />
hints of sweetness. Quite full-bodied for a Kabinett.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2019 »Reserve S« Birkweiler Rosenberg<br />
Pinot Blanc trocken<br />
Savoury aroma with wood spice from barrique ageing, ripe<br />
yellow fruit, pineapple. Shows volume on the palate, well<br />
built with extract and muscle. Again a lot of spice and also<br />
texture, juice and minerality, ripe citrus fruit. Good length.<br />
Will evolve. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
357
WEINGUT HAGENBUCH<br />
Weinstrasse 63, 76835 Haineld<br />
T: +49 (6323) 2770, info@weinguthagenbuch.de<br />
www.lothar-hagenbuch.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Stefan Hagenbuch<br />
Contact: Tobias Hagenbuch<br />
Hectares: 25 ha<br />
The Hagenbuch family has made wine<br />
for five generations. It was in 2017 that<br />
brothers Tobias and Stefan took the<br />
helm of the estate after their father Lothar had<br />
laid the foundations for the development of<br />
this estate. “We are full of drive and determination<br />
for action and have the know how to<br />
fulfil these requirements,” the brothers report.<br />
Once again they show their talent with a spicy<br />
Spätlese from Grauburgunder. Their Merlot<br />
Blanc de Noir is highly unusual and shows almost<br />
peppery spice. A new estate is just being<br />
created in the neighbouring village of Flemlingen<br />
– a project for the future.<br />
90 2019 Grauburgunder Spätlese trocken<br />
Spicy notes on the nose, walnut, quince and pear and blossom<br />
honey. On the palate the classic Spätlese character<br />
shows with ripe pear, honeydew melon, spice and well integrated<br />
fruit sweetness. The ripe acidity works well and provides<br />
excellent length. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
88 2019 Weissburgunder trocken<br />
88 2019 Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Intense aromas of ripe mango, papaya, blackcurrant and ripe<br />
melon. On the palate there is sweetish fruit and a fresh, appropriate<br />
acid structure. Harmoniously balanced in a slender<br />
body with ripe and fresh elements. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
88 2019 Spätburgunder Rosé trocken<br />
On the nose strawberry fruit accompanied by raspberry and<br />
floral notes, mint and tomato leaf. The palate displays all the<br />
ingredients that make a coherent rosé: clear fruit, good<br />
freshness and a juicy balance. Slenderly built, spicy and animated.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 Gewürztraminer Spätlese<br />
Slightly restrained herbal notes on the nose with floral<br />
scents of violets and privet, as well as notes of ripe yellow<br />
fruit and quince. On the palate, creamy sweetness with slight<br />
acidity, a delicate appetising astringency lingers. Finishes<br />
rather short. 10 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 Blanc de Noir Merlot trocken<br />
Tangerine and mirabelle plums on the nose, also raspberry,<br />
redcurrants and floral notes. There’s a nice juiciness and<br />
spiciness on the palate, almost a little peppery; ripe and restrained<br />
acidity, a slight piquancy and salty, fine tannins.<br />
An interesting interpretation. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
358 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINHAUS FRANZ HAHN<br />
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
Kirchstrasse 16-17, 76857 Albersweiler<br />
T: +49 (6345) 3421, info@weinhaus-franzhahn.de<br />
weinhaus-franzhahn.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 7.30–12 hrs and<br />
14–17 hrs, Saturdays by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Martin Hochdörffer<br />
Contact: Martin Hochdörffer<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 300,000 (60 % white, 40 % red)<br />
It was not until 2016 that Yvonne and<br />
Martin Hochdörffer took over Weingut<br />
Franz Hahn. Since Martin Hochdörffer<br />
wants to focus entirely on winemaking, all the<br />
grapes are bought in. We can see Hochdörffer’s<br />
spirit of experimentation in the range of wines<br />
he presented this year. He skilfully combines<br />
maturation in wood and stainless steel. His<br />
Veltliner “Premium’’ shows the variety’s DNA<br />
and yet has Pfalz character. His combination<br />
of Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Blanc is unusual.<br />
This is a fairly priced range of wine<br />
which should also prove an interesting hunting<br />
ground for a sommelier.<br />
89 2019 Riesling Spätlese trocken<br />
Ripe fruit on the nose, mango and papaya, honeydew melon,<br />
toasted aromas. Ripe fruit and sweetness on the palate, accompanied<br />
by ripe acidity, full bodied in the style of a classic<br />
Spätlese, but slender in structure. Fine phenolics, balanced.<br />
11,7 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2018 Riesling Auslese halbtrocken<br />
Ripe peach and apricot on the nose, along with notes from<br />
wood ageing, smoke and fine toasted aromas. Juicy and<br />
sweet on the palate, again notes from wood ageing which<br />
also shows in the firm structure. Presence of acidity makes it<br />
interesting to drink. 12,7 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2018 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Blueberry and blackcurrant on the nose, wood spice, fine<br />
toasty aromas. On the palate there is real freshness and vivid<br />
acidity in a compactly built body. The tannins are ripe and<br />
show potential for further ageing - will evolve.<br />
13,2 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2018 Riesling Auslese<br />
Delicate light green shimmers in the glass. The nose smells<br />
of hay and white peach with slight hints of petrol. On the palate<br />
a crunchy acidity pairs with delicate sweetness, very refreshing<br />
- animated. A fine aperitif. 7,8 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 Chardonnay Spätlese trocken<br />
89 2019 Cabernet Blanc trocken<br />
89 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 Sauvignon Blanc &<br />
Cabernet Blanc halbtrocken<br />
88 2019 Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
88 2019 Grauburgunder trocken<br />
89 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon trocken<br />
90 2019 »Premium« Veltliner trocken<br />
Deep yellow. Ripe citrus fruit on the nose, also yellow flowers.<br />
Juicy and spicy on the palate with a lean and firm structure.<br />
Intense and yellow-fruited, a dash of sweetness, generous<br />
and structured, shows the characteristics of the grape<br />
variety in a Pfalz interpretation. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
359
WEINGUT HAMMEL<br />
Weinstrasse Süd 4, 67281 Kirchheim<br />
T: +49 (6359) 86401, info@weinhammel.de<br />
www.weinhammel.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–18.30 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 9–18 hrs, Sundays 13–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Christoph Hammel<br />
Contact: Christoph Hammel<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 500,000 (50 % white, 50 % red)/63 ha<br />
Christoph Hammel is a real character<br />
and by now a kind of brand in his own<br />
right within the Pfalz wine scene –<br />
not that it is short of such types or personalities.<br />
This winemaker with his Father Christmas<br />
beard manages to combine quality with<br />
accessibility, like his elegant blend “Liebfraumilch<br />
Schwarze Madonna’’, for instance.<br />
His wines are balanced, gluggable, not too<br />
complicated – while absolutely avoiding banality<br />
and showing real profile. It’s an artwork<br />
in itself. An achievement that probably only<br />
Christoph Hammel could achieve!<br />
90 2019 »In the Mood for Müller«<br />
Müller-Thurgau trocken<br />
A classic representation of its variety. On the nose a scent of<br />
white peach, lemon peel, nutmeg and rose petal as well as<br />
subtle herbs. These medium intense aromas and flavours are<br />
balanced by fine acidity. Medium bodied with good length.<br />
Coherent! 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2019 »Liebfraumilch Schwarze Madonna«<br />
feinherb RR/MT/GV/TR<br />
Still pale in colour but intense in aroma; ripe pear, lemon<br />
zest, lime and mango. On the palate the residual sweetness<br />
remains discreetly behind the primary, ripe fruit and is balanced<br />
by lively acidity. With a fine sweetness-acidity interplay.<br />
Neat! 12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
91 2017 Kleinkarlbach Herrenberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Medium intense nose with aromas of cherry, raspberry,<br />
blackberry and clove. Powerfully built on the palate with ripe<br />
tannins and lively acidity, also notes of cedar and forest floor.<br />
Very well balanced. Good finish. 14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
91 2016 Kleinkarlbach Herrenberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
A scent of sour cherry, wood spice and black pepper on the<br />
nose. On the palate the wine has texture, power and ripe tannins.<br />
Rather dense but also mellow, has juicy fruit and a<br />
plump suppleness in the background. A wine with plenty of<br />
potential. 14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
89 2019 »Gegen Gerade« Riesling feinherb<br />
89 2019 »Blaue Stunde« trocken CH/SB<br />
88 2019 »Tage wie diese« Riesling trocken<br />
88 2017 »Doppelstück« Veltliner trocken<br />
88 2019 Gewürztraminer trocken<br />
89 2019 »Tonneau« St. Laurent trocken<br />
88 2018 »Tonneau« Portugieser trocken<br />
90 2019 »Für mich soll's rote Rosén regnen«<br />
Rosé trocken<br />
Pale ruby in the glass. On the nose intense aromas of red<br />
cherry, elderflower, redcurrants and clove are accompanied<br />
by a citrus note and delicate acidity on the palate. The<br />
complex flavours lead to an exciting finish.<br />
12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
360 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT HANEWALD-SCHWERDT<br />
Pochelstrasse 37, 67098 Bad Dürkheim<br />
T: +49 (6322) 63206, info@hanewald-schwerdt.de<br />
www.hanewald-schwerdt.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–12 hrs and<br />
13–18 hrs, Saturdays 9–17 hrs and by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Thomas Hanewald and Stephan Schwerdt<br />
Contact: Stephan Schwerdt<br />
Hectares: 25 ha<br />
Cousins Thomas Hanewald and Stephan<br />
Schwerdt once again presented a very<br />
convincing range of their ambitious<br />
wines and site potential. Weingut Hane wald-<br />
Schwerdt cultivates almost 25 hectares of<br />
vineyards in famous sites like Ruppertsberger<br />
Reiterpfad or Bad Dürkheimer Hochbenn.<br />
The Riesling from this site impresses with a<br />
savoury, cool minerality, the one from the<br />
Reiterpfad with concentration and balance.<br />
Their Spätburgunders are dense with finely<br />
extracted tannins and of multi-faceted elegance.<br />
They are going places!<br />
91 2018 Bad Dürkheim Hochbenn<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Herbal notes on the nose, tomato leaf, leafiness, ripe apricots<br />
and shattered rock. Juicy and supple at first on the palate,<br />
then showing a spicy and cool minerality that accentuates<br />
the wine. Harmonious balance, medium extract. Still<br />
youthful. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
mellow tannins, the generous volume offers a ripe acid structure<br />
and lots of spice. Full bodied – shows the ripeness of the<br />
vintage. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2017 Cabernet Franc trocken<br />
90 2017 Leistadt Herrenmorgen<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Spicy and herbal nose with ripe yellow fruit and apple, grapefruit,<br />
lemon balm and allspice. Compact palate showing juicy<br />
texture and ripe acidity, apple and light flowers again, fine<br />
phenolic tartness, good extract, stony spiciness.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
91 2018 Leistadt Herzfeld<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Cassis, cherry and wood spice and violets on the nose. Elegant<br />
and with fine tannins, sensitively extracted, skilful use<br />
of wood, finely chiselled acidity, beautiful fruit, powerfully<br />
built with density. Glides smoothly along - elegant.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2015 »Kalkriff« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Spicy nose with ripe black cherry and blackberry, violets and<br />
smoke. On the palate there is relatively fleshy fruit, rich and<br />
90 2018 Ruppertsberg Reiterpfad<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Concentrated aromas of apricot and apple, spicy notes,<br />
herbs and also flowers. On the palate there is good concentration<br />
and balance, the harmonious acidity sets the pace,<br />
there’s good extract, fine phenolic layers and mineral hue.<br />
Congenial. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
361
WEINGUT HAUER<br />
In den Kornwiesen 1, 67098 Bad Dürkheim<br />
T: +49 (6322) 63375, info@weingut-hauer.de<br />
katharinenhof-hauer.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Volker and André Hauer<br />
Contact: André Hauer<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 80,000 (60 % white, 40 % red)/12 ha<br />
Volker Hauer runs Weingut Hauer together<br />
with his son André. They have almost<br />
12 hectares of vines spread around<br />
Bad Dürkheim, Leistadt and Kallstadt. Some of<br />
their wines have rather demonstrative names,<br />
like “Glücksau’’ (=lucky swine) or “Saustark’’<br />
(=piggishly powerful), but it is the content rather<br />
than the label that deserves attention. This father-son<br />
team produce a number of specialities,<br />
like the aromatic Cabernet Blanc which illustrates<br />
that real wines with profile can be made<br />
from this undervalued variety. Likewise, their<br />
Cabernet Mitos “Saustark” pleases with its fruity<br />
tartness and masculine character. Well done!<br />
89 2019 Bad Dürkheim Goldmuskateller tr.<br />
Fragrant bouquet with a blade of mace and freshly grated<br />
nutmeg, rose and lavender, also citrus fruit. On the palate<br />
there’s power and substance, mild acidity, phenolic and tidy<br />
spiciness, also some pink pepper. This would pair well with<br />
spicy dishes. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
and also muscle. For drinking by the fire or with hearty food.<br />
14,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
88 2019 Bad Dürkheim Gewürztraminer tr.<br />
89 2019 »Glücksau« feinherb TR/RL<br />
Gewürztraminer and Rieslaner make up the “Glücksau”. Rose<br />
petals on the nose, lychee and ripe mango. On the palate<br />
there is soft acidity and juice, a well-woven sweetness provides<br />
harmony and charm, plenty of fragrance. A blend for<br />
sommeliers and rainy Sunday afternoons.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2018 »Saustark« Cabernet Mitos trocken<br />
Fruity, spicy nose of elderberries, elderberry jam and blackcurrants<br />
along with ink and soy sauce. Elderberry on the palate<br />
with a good freshness, a fine astringency, grippy tannins.<br />
Masculine in character, will show its potential when paired<br />
with meat. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €<br />
89 2017 Bad Dürkheim Spätburgunder<br />
Auslese trocken<br />
Strong fragrance of cherry, chocolate-coated cherry in<br />
Kirsch, wood savouriness, allspice and ground ginger. Sweet<br />
fruit dominates the front palate, there’s a lot of substance<br />
90 2019 Bad Dürkheim Cabernet Blanc tr.<br />
Powerful and substantial Cabernet Blanc with aromas of<br />
grapefruit and lime zest, gooseberry and lychee. Juicy,<br />
powerful and with a dash of sweetness on the palate, spice<br />
comes through later along with ripe fruit. Good extract, a<br />
grown-up wine with character. 13,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
362 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT HOF<br />
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
Klingbachstrasse 29, 76831 Heuchelheim-Klingen<br />
T: +49 (6349) 1591, info@weingut-joachim-hof.de<br />
www.weingut-joachim-hof.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Philipp and Julian Hof<br />
Contact: Philipp Hof<br />
Hectares: 22 ha<br />
This family estate has been run by brothers<br />
Philipp und Julian Hof since 2010.<br />
Their estate has 22 hectares of vineyards,<br />
including the Klingen top site of Herrenpfad,<br />
where they grow Riesling, Pinot varieties,<br />
Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.<br />
“Our particular focus, however, is on<br />
dry Muskateller,” Philipp Hof reports. But it is<br />
above all the red wines that impress in the<br />
range of wines presented, especially the Spätburgunder<br />
with its finesse, the Merlot with its<br />
beautiful depth of fruit or the powerfully collated<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon.<br />
89 2019 Klingen Herrenpfad<br />
Chardonnay trocken<br />
Initially pineapple on the nose, then yellow apple and ripe mirabelle<br />
plum, mango, subtle spice. Powerfully built on the<br />
palate with lots of volume, sweet extract, bags of spice and<br />
fruit are supported by the ripe acid structure. Creamy on the<br />
mid-palate, stays long on the finish. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
fruit and good balance, clearly defined, powerful outline, ripe<br />
tannins, notes of bitter chocolate and elderberry. Lovely tartness<br />
on the finish. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
88 2019 Gelber Muskateller trocken<br />
89 2019 Klingen Herrenpfad<br />
Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
Deep yellow with reddish tints. Ripe pear on the powerful<br />
nose, caramelised walnuts, spicy wood notes. Strong structure<br />
on the palate, showing a lot of substance, juice, creaminess<br />
and spice. The ripe acidity supports the full body, dry<br />
character. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2017 Klingen Herrenpfad Merlot trocken<br />
Blackberry and plum on the nose, wood spice, herbs and<br />
roasted coffee beans. On the palate there is clear fruit and<br />
sweetish extract and a light cinnamon note. The vivid and<br />
well integrated acidity provides freshness. Powerful construction,<br />
polished tannins, juicy. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2017 Klingen Herrenpfad<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon trocken<br />
On the nose cassis and black cherry, spicy notes, tobacco,<br />
clove and blackberry. On the palate there is beautiful clear<br />
91 2018 Klingen Herrenpfad<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
On the nose fruits of the forest, cherries, mint and eucalyptus<br />
and a light wood note. Powerful structure and good<br />
freshness on the palate with a vivid acid structure, ripe red<br />
cherries. The tannins are ripe and fine-grained; shows substance<br />
and finesse. 13,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
363
WEINGUT JOHLER<br />
Heustrasse 159, 67363 Lustadt<br />
T: +49 (170) 4968441, info@wein-johler.de<br />
www.wein-johler.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Patrick Johler<br />
Contact: Patrick and Gerd Johler<br />
Hectares: 12 ha<br />
Dear Wine Lovers”, writes Weingut<br />
Johler to both us and our readers.<br />
Continuing with, “We are now in the<br />
third generation family-owned business that<br />
has dedicated itself utterly to viticulture and<br />
winemaking. As a family-run estate where<br />
everyone is actively involved, it is our aim to<br />
create a range of wines, year upon year, that<br />
offers something for everyone”. In doing so,<br />
Patrick and Gerd Johler have become masters<br />
in making off-dry wines. Rounded out with an<br />
extra dollop of slight sweetness, these wines<br />
happily serve a wide circle of wine lovers – and<br />
that is down to that intuitive final balance.<br />
89 2019 Sauvignon Blanc feinherb<br />
Apple and caraway, akin to a natural wine nose, also peppery<br />
aromas, peppermint. On the palate there is a comparatively<br />
strong body, fresh carbon dioxide, firm acidity and fruit-accompanied<br />
sweetness, a dense, spicy wine with quite an different<br />
appeal. 12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
88 2019 Chardonnay trocken<br />
A pleasant, delicately spicy varietal expression on the nose,<br />
slightly nutty, slightly citrusy, walnut. Straightforward on<br />
the palate; gentle sweetness, slender, lively acidity. A fresh,<br />
uncomplicated wine and an ideal aperitif.<br />
12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
88 2019 Kerner lieblich<br />
88 2019 »Cuvée Rosé« feinherb<br />
87 2019 Spätburgunder Rosé feinherb<br />
87 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé<br />
87 2019 Dornfelder Rosé trocken<br />
88 2019 Spätburgunder feinherb<br />
87 2019 »Cuvée Theo« DF/PN<br />
89 2019 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Almond, elderberry and mint on the nose. Quite dense, taut<br />
tannins on the palate. Firm acidity and slight leafy overtones<br />
are well integrated and will dissipate as the wine matures in<br />
the bottle. The beautiful, clear, cherry and herb finish lingers<br />
for a long time. 12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
88 2019 »Cuvée Albert« feinherb DF/PN/DU<br />
Cocoa bean and pepper on the nose. Fine tannins, carefully<br />
extracted, are underpinned by juicy-sweet fruit, vivid but well<br />
integrated acidity, fruit-borne finish. A neat, off-dry red wine.<br />
11,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 Grauburgunder trocken<br />
Initially still yeasty on the nose, followed by a spicy, ripe varietal<br />
style, sweet chestnut, sesame. Round and comparatively<br />
smooth on the palate, almost creamy; ripe acidity,<br />
moderate extract. A well defined varietal expression.<br />
12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
364 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT JÜLG<br />
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
Hauptstrasse 1, 76889 Schweigen-Rechtenbach<br />
T: +49 (6342) 919090, info@weingut-juelg.de<br />
www.weingut-juelg.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Johannes Jülg and Sören Söllner<br />
Contact: Werner and Johannes Jülg<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 200,000 (65 % white, 35 % red)/20 ha<br />
Johannes Jülg is exuberant and in top<br />
form. Whenever we sent out tenders for<br />
wine competitions, his wines were there<br />
amongst the best. And you don’t even have to<br />
grasp for his top wine “Opus Oscar” to have<br />
something extraordinary in your glass. Jülg<br />
has mastered that interplay between wood<br />
and fruit like few others, the wines are vibrant<br />
with density and tension. A noteworthy fact:<br />
almost half of the vineyards lie across the border<br />
on the French side. We can also recommend<br />
the estate’s own Weinstube, or inn,<br />
where down-to-earth Pfalz cuisine comes with<br />
a touch of Francophile finesse.<br />
94 2019 »Opus-Oskar« Chardonnay trocken<br />
Burgundian on the nose. A bouquet of yellow apple, star fruit,<br />
lemon zest and finest vanilla. On the palate violets, pear, hazelnut<br />
and pineapple. Ideally balanced by very lively acidity.<br />
The light phenolics bring a textural sensation. Has depth and<br />
a very long finish. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2018 »Kalkmergel« Spätburgunder tr.<br />
94 Schweigen Sonnenberg Reitschul<br />
Weissburgunder trocken 2019<br />
Clear in the glass. Very precise on the nose; ripe pineapple,<br />
peach, brioche and honeysuckle. Concentrated palate with<br />
depth of flavours; wet stone, pear, lemon zest and ripe melon.<br />
Perfectly integrated wood and a very long finish.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
95 2018 Schweigen Kammerberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Medium ruby. Complex fragrance. Raspberry, sweet cherry,<br />
violet and clove. The fine acidity balances the above aromas<br />
as well as orange zest and hibiscus. Tension, power, ripe tannins<br />
and a light minerality carry this distinguished wine into<br />
a long finish. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
94 2018 »Opus-Oskar« Spätburgunder tr.<br />
Tar, dark berry, elderberry jam, ripe blackberry. On the palate<br />
a powerful texture of finely gripping floury tannins, delicate<br />
acidity, high fruit potential. Still largely closed, but hinting at<br />
the complexity to come. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
93 2019 Schweigen Sonnenberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Very fine and precise aromas of ripe pineapple, apple and<br />
elderflower. The accentuated acidity accompanies the<br />
complex aromatics, complemented by lime, grapefruit,<br />
redcurrants leaf and flint flavours. Impressive, long finish.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
365
WINZERGENOSSENSCHAFT<br />
KALLSTADT<br />
Weinstrasse 126, 67169 Kallstadt<br />
T: +49 (6322) 97 97 97, info@wg-kallstadt.de<br />
www.wg-kallstadt.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 9–18 hrs, Sundays 10–18 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Joachim Janss-Schaad<br />
Contact: Axel Messer<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 1,500,000 (60% white, 40 % red)/240 ha<br />
When it comes to navigating a large<br />
ship you need a clear sense of direction,<br />
just like the Winzergenossenschaft<br />
in Kallstadt. “We and our members<br />
put all of our ambition into growing excellent<br />
grapes and these form the basis for the production<br />
of premium wines,” stated from the cooperative.<br />
They look after 240 hectares of vineyards<br />
amongst which are famed sites such as<br />
the Kallstadter Saumagen. Care in the vineyards,<br />
artisanal tradition and innovative winemaking<br />
result in wines that show real balance,<br />
like their Weissburgunder “Edition”. All<br />
of this comes at prices that are more than fair.<br />
90 2018 »Edition« Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Very clear, multi-layered late harvest fruit; tangerine, hay,<br />
buttery notes. Smooth and round on the palate, well integrated<br />
acidity, a hint of sweetness, robust body with medium-high<br />
extract. A gastronomic wine with good varietal expression.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2019 Kallstadt Kobnert<br />
Grauburgunder trocken<br />
Delicately cream coloured. On the nose blueberry, malt, honey<br />
and sweet chestnut. Supple on the palate and full, ripe<br />
acidity. A comparatively dry body suggests a wine destined<br />
for gastronomic use. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 Kallstadt Saumagen<br />
Riesling Kabinett trocken<br />
Lime, fragrant, herbal tones. Slender on the palate but<br />
slightly chalky - the site comes through although the wine<br />
remains rather lightweight. Juicy, fine-boned structure, well<br />
rounded, clearly mineral. An affordable single-site Riesling.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2018 Rieslaner Auslese<br />
Clear, rich yellow. On the nose ripe citrus fruit, mango, papaya<br />
and notes of smoke. On the palate; powerful sweetness, pear<br />
juice, apricot, papaya and almond. Dense structure, well integrated<br />
acidity. Has ageing potential. 8,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 Kallstadt Kobnert Kerner Kabinett<br />
89 2018 Kallstadt Saumagen<br />
Riesling Kabinett feinherb<br />
88 2019 Kallstadt Kobnert<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
88 2019 Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
87 2019 »SommerLiebe« feinherb<br />
88 2019 Kallstadt Kobnert St. Laurent trocken<br />
87 2019 Kallstadt Kobnert Regent trocken<br />
90 2019 Gewürztraminer trocken<br />
Candied fruit, rose, smoke - clear on the nose. On the palate<br />
juicy, full bodied, firm acidity, strong alcohol, just a hint<br />
of sweetness. An appetising, not overwhelming, well balanced<br />
varietal expression. Would go very well with curries.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
366 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT KASSNER-SIMON<br />
Am Musikantenbuckel 7, 67251 Freinsheim<br />
T: +49 (6353) 989320, info@kassner-simon.de<br />
www.kassner-simon.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Thomas Simon<br />
Contact: Thomas Simon<br />
Hectares: 18 ha<br />
The wines of Thomas Simon who runs<br />
Weingut Kassner-Simon, are dependable.<br />
They are not loud wines clamouring<br />
for effect but artisanally made wines like<br />
Spätlesen of Chardonnay and Weissburgunder<br />
which you can just about imagine gracing<br />
any well-laid table. The dry Rieslings show<br />
real substance and savouriness, the red wine<br />
blend “Kostbar” of Merlot, Cabernet Franc<br />
and Cabernet Sauvignon unites power and elegance.<br />
His Rieslaner Beerenauslese from the<br />
Oschelskopf site shows silky sweetness, density<br />
and structure. Well done!<br />
90 2018 Freinsheim Auf dem vorderen Gross<br />
Riesling Spätlese trocken<br />
Ripe fruit on the nose, mango and apricot, also pineapple and<br />
some wood spice. Strong and firm in structure, juicy and<br />
spicy, shows the warm year, fine wood tannins and a mineral<br />
tinge. Lush and with good tension. Good length, has potential.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
sweet wine with density and structure that will age very well.<br />
10,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 Freinsheim Musikantenbuckel<br />
Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
89 2019 Freinsheim Oschelskopf<br />
Riesling Spätlese trocken<br />
Ripe fruit on the nose, peach and citrus notes, apricot, floral<br />
spice, sunflower. Dry and spicy on the palate, slender structure,<br />
balanced acidity, ripe apricot and lime zest, juicy and<br />
with fine astringency. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2017 »Kostbar« trocken ME/CS/CF<br />
“Precious” is this cuvée of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon, with strong scents of blackberry, black cherry<br />
and blackcurrant, also ample spice. On the palate, it shows<br />
power, substance, a lot of spice and also elegance with ripe<br />
tannins. Good length. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
93 2018 Freinsheim Oschelskopf<br />
Rieslaner Beerenauslese<br />
Overt botrytis; sultana, Turkish delight, dates, but also floral<br />
notes, jasmine. Viscous across the palate, but not exuberant.<br />
Silky sweetness, firm acid backbone and good substance. A<br />
90 2019 Chardonnay & Weissburgunder<br />
Spätlese trocken<br />
Ripe citrus fruit, flowers, candied orange peel and apple. Full<br />
bodied and with a lot of spice on the palate. Powerful structure,<br />
good substance, ripe acidity, juice and texture, good roundness.<br />
Made for the table - versatile. 13,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
367
WEIN & SEKTHAUS ALOIS KIEFER<br />
Mühlstrasse 2, 67487 Sankt Martin<br />
T: +49 (6323) 2099, weinundsekthaus@aloiskiefer.de<br />
www.aloisiushof.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Saturdays 9–12 hrs and<br />
13–18 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Philipp Kiefer<br />
Contact: Philipp Kiefer<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 200,000 (50 % white, 50 % red)/20 ha<br />
Philipp Kiefer landed quite a feat with<br />
his Riesling “Am Guckuckberg” from<br />
the 2019 vintage: it has a full-body and<br />
real mineral backdrop – it also proves how intuitively<br />
and skilfully this winemaker can handle<br />
wood. The Riesling represents the entire<br />
wine range and gives us an idea of what may<br />
be possible here in the future. Philipp Kiefer<br />
has a real talent for wines with structure,<br />
depth and savouriness. His red wines, a Spätburgunder<br />
from 2018 and a Merlot from<br />
2017 are further proof. These are wines with<br />
potential and perspective.<br />
92 2019 St. Martin Am Guckuckberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Multi-layered aroma with lime peel, lime oil, apricot and a<br />
mineral timbre. Full-bodied and dense on the palate with<br />
phenolic layering and balanced acidity, well-integrated<br />
wood, firm structure and mineral underpinning. Young and<br />
talented. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
density and substance, also with aromatic generosity, ripe<br />
fruit, herbaceous spice and sweet extract. Powerful and bold,<br />
good length. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2019 St. Martin Kirchberg Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 St. Martin Am Guckuckberg<br />
Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Discreet woody scent on the nose, also yeast and cassis with<br />
notes of exotic fruit in the background. Spicy start on the palate,<br />
powerful, well-framed structure, some mango as fruit,<br />
ripe and vivid acidity, juice and texture. Good potential, will<br />
continue to grow. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2018 St. Martin Kirchberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Spicy and berryish nose with beautiful Pinot fruit, cherry,<br />
raspberry, smoke, violets and juniper berry. Soft on the palate<br />
with spicy notes. The structure is powerful with ripe acidity<br />
- a wonderful impression of its sense of place.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2017 »Ambrosia« Merlot trocken<br />
Blackcurrant and cherry on the nose, spice and smoke, also<br />
plum. Confident on the palate with a powerful structure,<br />
89 2019 »Buntsandstein« Riesling trocken<br />
Fruity nose with notes of ripe citrus fruit, grapefruit and<br />
apple. Slenderly built, fruity and juicy on the palate, with<br />
vivid acidity and fine fruit sweetness. Has momentum,<br />
shows elegance, also mineral notes and spiciness. Balanced<br />
stylish Riesling. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
368 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT JOSEF KÖHR<br />
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
Hauptstrasse 68, 67152 Ruppertsberg<br />
T: +49 (6326) 8909, hof-info@weingut-koehr.de<br />
www.weingut-koehr.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Dr. C. K. Josef Köhr<br />
Contact: Dr. C. K. Josef Köhr<br />
Hectares: 15 ha<br />
The Köhr family has made wine since<br />
1648 and the Ruppertsberger Nussbien<br />
site (their main vineyard) has been in<br />
their possession for the past 200 years. Dr. C.<br />
K. Josef Köhr took over the running of the estate<br />
with the 2019 vintage. After graduating<br />
from Geisenheim and various stints abroad,<br />
Köhr has broken new ground: the grapes are<br />
harvested late to achieve more intense aroma.<br />
The wines are made and matured in a mix of<br />
stainless steel, big barrels and barriques. We<br />
tasted an exciting range of wines and are positively<br />
curious about the future developments<br />
in Ruppertsberg!<br />
91 2019 »fumé« Ruppertsberg Nussbien<br />
Sauvignon Blanc Spätlese trocken<br />
As the name implies smoke plays a role on the nose, along<br />
with redcurrants, lots of intense spice and some green pepper.<br />
Quite powerful on the palate with a lot of volume and<br />
substance, the wood is tied in nicely. Needs time in bottle,<br />
will be very special. 14,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2015 »Casameo« trocken CS/ME<br />
Blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. On the nose, black<br />
cherry and blackberry, dark aromas, forest floor and pine resin.<br />
Vivid on the palate with well integrated acidity, clear and<br />
ripe fruit, supple tannins. Powerful structure, well done.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 Auxerrois Spätlese trocken<br />
90 2017 »Goldschmied« Ruppertsberg<br />
Nussbien Riesling Spätlese trocken<br />
Deep yellow. Concentrated ripe apricot, mango and papaya<br />
fragrance, discreet petrol tone. Ripe, concentrated fruit on<br />
the palate underpinned by a ripe, spicy acidity, also ripe citrus<br />
fruit and texture; firm structure, good extract, multi-faceted.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 »fumé« Ruppertsberg Linsenbusch<br />
Gewürztraminer Spätlese trocken<br />
The scent of rose petals is accompanied by delicate smoke.<br />
The palate shows an exciting combination of exotic fruit fullness<br />
(mango and papaya) and wood ageing. Strong, firm<br />
structure, still needs some time to find itself. Good potential,<br />
interesting. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2019 Hambach Riesling trocken<br />
Ripe stone fruit on the nose, apricot and peach, also apple<br />
and bergamot. Well balanced on the palate with ripe, integrated<br />
acidity. Compact construction. Ripe passion fruit<br />
gives elegance, juice and texture. Medium extract, mineral<br />
spice - classically beautiful. 13 Vol.-%, DIAM, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
369
WEINGUT KRANZ<br />
Mörzheimer Strasse 2, 76831 Ilbesheim<br />
T: +49 (6341) 939206, info@weingut-kranz.de<br />
www.weingut-kranz.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Wednesdays 8–12 hrs,<br />
Thursdays, Fridays 8–12 and 14–18 hrs , Saturdays 9–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Boris Kranz<br />
Contact: Boris Kranz<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 120,000 (75 % white, 25 % red)/25 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
The wines made by Boris Kranz embody<br />
an entirely calm kind of avant-garde.<br />
This is what makes them as attractive<br />
to lovers of classic styles as to those who tend<br />
towards natural wine. We were really taken<br />
with the way the Kalmit Weissburgunder<br />
showed a subtle, spontaneous whiff of saltiness<br />
before it had dissipated. The extraction of<br />
tannins in the Spätburgunders also received<br />
full marks from us and one of our tasters remarked<br />
that the Kalmit Riesling reminded her<br />
of wild silk: grippy in texture and simply unsurpassed<br />
in its naturalness.<br />
94 2019 Ilbesheim Kalmit Riesling GG<br />
Deep, intense, nuanced and intricate. Red and green fruit, orange<br />
blossom, stone fruit, sweet apple. Round and juicy on<br />
the palate. Silken multi-layered texture. Exquisitely concentrated,<br />
delicate phenolics and spiciness, mineral with citric<br />
acidity. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2019 Arzheim am Klingenwingert<br />
Weissburgunder Erste Lage trocken<br />
92 2019 Ilbesheim Kalmit Weissburgunder GG<br />
White and yellow blossom as well as apple on the nose, citrus<br />
fruit, almond and fine spice. On the palate apple again<br />
and a little cider, ripe and vivid acid structure, good substance<br />
with a firm core and fine salty underpinning. Shows<br />
elegance, good length. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2017 Ilbesheim Kalmit Spätburgunder GG<br />
Subtle spicy nose of cherry, herbs and fine smoke, some<br />
black tea. On the palate vivid with tension, juicy and with<br />
good freshness, the acidity is bright and well integrated.<br />
Good texture, finely extracted tannins, elegant.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2017 Arzheim am Fürstenweg<br />
Spätburgunder Erste Lage trocken<br />
Deep, clear. Dark cherry, a little pencil. On the palate juicy<br />
fruit and fresh acidity, sour cherry, finely structured, delicate<br />
spice and grip. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2019 Ilbesheim Westerberg<br />
Riesling Erste Lage trocken<br />
Fine, juicy, herbaceous, earthy minerality. Full bodied on<br />
the palate, fresh, grippy. Juicy apple, ripe peach, melon,<br />
dried lemon peel, stone dust. Fine phenolics, still slight astringency<br />
and citric acid structure. 13 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
370 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT KREBS<br />
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
Grosskarlbacher Strasse 10, 67251 Freinsheim<br />
T: +49 (6353) 3149, info@weingut-krebs.eu<br />
www.weingut-krebs.eu<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 10–12 hrs and<br />
14– 18 hrs, Saturdays 10–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Jürgen Krebs<br />
Contact: Jürgen Krebs<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 100,000 (50 % white, 50 % red)/20 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
The red wines from the 2017 vintage<br />
prove that it is absolutely worth laying<br />
down Jürgen Krebs’ wines. The exquisite<br />
Spätburgunder from the Himmelreich site<br />
is almost purist in its expression and brims<br />
with minerality; the Blaufränkisch is juicy,<br />
grippy and profound. “I have no need of hocus<br />
pocus,” Krebs reports, whose 20 hectares of<br />
vineyards have been certified organic since<br />
2018. Krebs has found his very own style<br />
where primary fruit does not play first fiddle.<br />
His use of wood is intuitive and skilful – as his<br />
wonderfully balanced Viognier shows. A very<br />
strong performance!<br />
91 2018 Herxheim Himmelreich Riesling tr.<br />
Strong lemon yellow in colour, spicy nose with ripe stone<br />
fruit and apple, ripe apricot, candied orange peel and ginger.<br />
The powerful structure shows juice and ripe fruit, spice<br />
again. Dense and compact, with good length.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
sour cherry and a slightly citric tone, also substantial. The<br />
acidity is lively and unobtrusive. Dry, little fruit, slightly stemmy<br />
tannins. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2017 Freinsheim Spätburgunder trocken<br />
93 2017 Herxheim Himmelreich<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Floral notes on the nose; violets, a little rosehip and cherry, a<br />
touch of lovage, also a slightly ethereal tone. Well built on<br />
the palate there is cherry and also sour cherry and delicate<br />
spice. Purist in expression. Dry, emphasises the mineral aspects.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2017 »Réserve« Freinsheim<br />
Musikantenbuckel Blaufränkisch trocken<br />
Blueberry and wild blueberry on the nose, subtle wood spice,<br />
touch of orange peel and sage, freshly crushed juniper berry.<br />
Juicy on the palate there is some sour cherry and good momentum.<br />
Compact structure, the tannin is grippy and ripe.<br />
Has depth and elegance. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2017 Freinsheim Musikantenbuckel<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Cherry and light smoke, bay leaf and a little juniper berry on<br />
the nose. Compactly built on the palate with good freshness,<br />
91 2017 »Réserve« Viognier trocken<br />
Medium golden yellow in colour with a nose of candied orange<br />
peel and floral impressions, aniseed, pastry and also<br />
apricot. Lean and tightly built on the palate with balanced<br />
acidity and ripe fruit again. Dry and ending with a slight<br />
saltiness. 12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
371
WEINGUT THORSTEN KRIEGER<br />
Theresienstrasse 71, 76835 Rhodt unter Rietburg<br />
T: +49 (6323) 704998<br />
info@weingut-thorsten-krieger.de<br />
www.weingut-thorsten-krieger.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Thorsten Krieger<br />
Contact: Thorsten Krieger, Eva König<br />
Hectares: 26 ha<br />
Weingut Krieger in Rhodt has made<br />
wine since 1652 and has been run<br />
by Thorsten Krieger since 2001.<br />
His 26 hectares of vineyards are in the Rhodt<br />
sites of Rosengarten, Klosterpfad and Schlossberg,<br />
as well as in the Burrweiler Schäwer and<br />
Edenkobener Bergel. Year after year this winemaker<br />
manages to make wines with his clear<br />
and unmistakeable hallmark. At the top of a<br />
very homogenous range of wines stands his savoury<br />
Merlot “S” from the Rosengarten with<br />
its fine-grained tannins. Likewise, the substantial<br />
and textured Grauburgunder “S” is as impressive<br />
as the juicy Scheurebe.<br />
90 2019 »S« Rhodt Rosengarten<br />
Grauburgunder Spätlese trocken<br />
The ripe pear is accompanied by a vanilla note on the nose;<br />
dried apricot, wood spice and darker aromas such as juniper<br />
berry. Ripe fruit notes on the palate, dried apricot and pear<br />
again, full bodied and with substance, lots of spice and good<br />
length. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
sweetness, somewhat phenolic, medium in length.<br />
8 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2018 Rhodt Rosengarten<br />
Pinot Noir trocken<br />
91 2018 »S« Rhodt Rosengarten<br />
Merlot trocken<br />
Blueberry on the nose, wild blueberry and cherry, also some<br />
mint and cherry yoghurt. Shows the opulence and generosity<br />
of the 2018 vintage with lots of substance, volume and prominent,<br />
ripe tannins. Good tension with enough freshness, well<br />
balanced. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2018 Rhodt Rosengarten Syrah trocken<br />
Spicy and intense nose of blackcurrant, black cherry and<br />
blackberry, wood spice and some seaweed and tar. The intensity<br />
of the nose also shows on the palate with good concentration<br />
and substance, the ripe tannins give structure, grip<br />
and spice. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
89 2019 Gewürztraminer Auslese<br />
The nose is dominated by rose petals, underlaid with herbs<br />
and some spice. On the palate; peach, apricot and rose water,<br />
restrained acidity, grippy, medium structure. Noticeable<br />
89 2019 Scheurebe trocken<br />
Intense nose of passion fruit, mango, blackcurrant, spice<br />
and fresh grass clippings. Fruity and juicy on the palate<br />
with nice freshness and dynamic acidity. Compact build,<br />
spice on the finish. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
372 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT PHILIPP KUHN<br />
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
Grosskarlbacher Strasse 20, 67229 Laumersheim<br />
T: +49 (6238) 656, info@weingut-philipp-kuhn.de<br />
www.weingut-philipp-kuhn.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 10–12 hrs and<br />
13.30–17 hrs, Saturdays 10–12 hrs and 13.30–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Philipp Kuhn<br />
Contact: Lars Lander and Philipp Kuhn<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 200,000 (50 % white, 50 % red)/<br />
30 + 5 ha<br />
Whoever gets hold of one of Philipp<br />
Kuhn’s bottles knows what to expect:<br />
clear aromas, tamed power,<br />
expressiveness and vigour – everything in<br />
good measure and perfect proportion. Philipp<br />
Kuhn’s latest wines are no exception: limestone<br />
bursts from every seam in his Saumagen<br />
Riesling while its sibling from the Kirschgarten<br />
sets off aromatic fireworks of fruit. His<br />
Spätburgunders from the 2017 vintage<br />
convince with their concentration and their<br />
grippy, ripe tannins. Beyond Riesling and Pinot<br />
Noir, Kuhn also knows how to impress,<br />
for instance, with his Grauburgunder Réserve.<br />
93 2019 Kallstadt Saumagen Riesling GG<br />
Limestone and reduction on the nose, candied orange and<br />
blood orange, grapefruit. On the palate, chalky from the first<br />
moment to the last, ripe, refined acidity, concisely concentrated<br />
on the finish. A Riesling with the generosity that is typical<br />
for the vineyard. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
graphite. On the palate there is good concentration and substance,<br />
dense and with ripe, grippy tannin and fine acidity.<br />
Emphatically dry, potential. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2019 Zell Schwarzer Herrgott Riesling GG<br />
93 2019 Laumersheim Kirschgarten<br />
Riesling GG<br />
Earthy, light balsamic notes plus some yellow fruit, lemon<br />
balm, fresh citrus zest. Impressive on the palate, a layer of<br />
mealy phenolics, lots of juiciness, tense acidity, limestone-spiced<br />
finish. Still seems very young and undeveloped.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2017 Laumersheim Kirschgarten<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Closed on the nose; smoke, toasted aromas, black shoe polish,<br />
black tea, seaweed, also tar, dark ripe fruit behind. Concentrated<br />
and juicy with stable acidity, strong, marked tannins,<br />
still slightly astringent. Dry, young and with real potential.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2017 Laumersheim Steinbuckel<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Aroma of dark cherries, cassis, herbs such as lovage and<br />
rosemary, wood spice and smoke, roasted coffee beans,<br />
91 2018 »Réserve« Grosskarlbach Burgweg<br />
Grauburgunder Erste Lage trocken<br />
A Pinot Gris with a nutty, spicy aroma of toasted almonds<br />
and sage. It also has a slight Burgundy-like tone of popcorn.<br />
On the palate the wine has a gentle but vivid acid<br />
structure and light phenolics. 13 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
373
WEINGUT LANGENWALTER<br />
Bahnhofstrasse 45, 67256 Weisenheim<br />
T: +49 (6353) 7390, info@weingut-langenwalter.de<br />
www.weingut-langenwalter.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays, Tuesdays and Fridays 10–12 hrs<br />
and 14–18 hrs, Saturdays 10–15 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Thorsten Langenwalter<br />
Contact: Thorsten Langenwalter<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 180,000 (60 % white, 40 % red)/30 ha<br />
The Langenwalter family presented us<br />
with marvels of balance this year. You<br />
can taste the expertise in both vineyard<br />
and cellar in these wines which have no need<br />
for any frills: there are neither overblown aromas<br />
of wood, nor overripe fruit, nor any excessive<br />
sweetness. Instead the wines really<br />
show off their varietal character, like the ripe,<br />
rounded Gewürztraminer, the absolutely gastronomic<br />
and calm Weissburgunder and the<br />
minerally tense Burgweg Riesling. Please keep<br />
up the good work!<br />
93 2019 Weisenheim Burgweg Riesling tr.<br />
Peach and nectarine on the nose, slightly citrusy, grapefruit<br />
and blood orange, tangerine, mineral undertones. On the palate<br />
full bodied, but also juicy; pithy acidity, high intensity on<br />
the mid-palate yet still quite compact and youthful. Excellent<br />
substance. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 »Auf dem Kalkstein« Weisenheim<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
92 2019 Weisenheim Hahnen<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Nutty fragrance, linseed, hay, yeast, white chocolate. Round<br />
and supple on the palate, good traction, suitably delicate<br />
phenolics, medium extract density, well integrated, refined<br />
acidity. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 »Pinot Blanc et Noir« brut<br />
On the nose aromas of Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir; white<br />
flowers, mirabelle plum, some citrus fruit, raspberry and<br />
cherry. Concise freshness and clear fruit, lean and juicy, texture,<br />
light spiciness. Straightforward appearance with good<br />
structure - versatile. 12 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2018 Weisenheim Halde St. Laurent tr.<br />
Dark chocolate, blueberry muffin, noticeable new wood, with<br />
aeration also herbaceous aromas. Soft and supple onset to<br />
palate followed by lively acidity; delicate fruit sweetness and<br />
silky tannins give structure and great elegance.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2019 Weisenheim Burgweg<br />
Gewürztraminer trocken<br />
Blood orange, lychee, rose and clove. Supple and soft on<br />
the nose, round and plump on the mid-palate, good volume,<br />
pleasant sweetness, discreet substance, ripe but balanced<br />
acidity. A Gewürztraminer with late harvest body<br />
and very precise fruit. 13,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
374 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT<br />
LAUERMANN UND WEYER<br />
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
Leininger Ring 79, 67278 Bockenheim<br />
T: +49 (6359) 4231, info@lauermannundweyer.de<br />
www.lauermannundweyer.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–12 hrs and<br />
13–18 hrs, Saturdays 9–12 hrs and 13–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Hans-Jörg and Hans Heinrich Weyer<br />
Contact: Hans Heinrich Weyer<br />
Hectares: 17 ha<br />
Brothers Hans-Jörg and Hans Heinrich<br />
Weyer of Weingut Lauermann and<br />
Weyer in Bockenheim presented us<br />
with a multi-faceted and convincing range of<br />
wines. The single-site Rieslings from the Bockenheimer<br />
Heiligenkirche and the Bockenheimer<br />
Kerzenstümmel show substance, complexity<br />
and style, however, the estate wines already<br />
offer real varietal typicity and much<br />
drinking pleasure. The estate’s 17 hectares of<br />
vines are on various soils like clay, limestone<br />
and siltstone which lend differentiation to the<br />
wines. The Pinot wines are just made for the<br />
table and come at very fair prices.<br />
91 2018 Bockenheim Kerzenstümmel<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Multi-layered bouquet with notes of red apple, stone fruit<br />
and spice, also apple peel, herbs, and a touch of caraway.<br />
Well built and powerful. On the palate there is good substance,<br />
density and complexity, fine phenolic layering, juicy<br />
and ambitious. Will evolve. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2018 Bockenheim Heiligenkirche<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
The nose shows notes of wood ageing, smoke, and fine incense<br />
wafting around apple and yellow fruit. Lean and tightly<br />
built on the palate with well integrated acidity, good extract,<br />
fine phenolics. Riesling with lots of potential.<br />
12 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2018 Bockenheim Vogelsang<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Deep yellow in the glass, smoky and toasty notes from barrique<br />
ageing, notes of mint, pear, mirabelle plum and apple. On<br />
the palate; power and spice against a soft base, good substance<br />
and extract, ripe yellow fruit and apple. Good balance,<br />
will mature. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2018 Bockenheim Vogelsang<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Ripe apple and peach on the nose, yellow flowers and citrus<br />
notes. Powerful structure, juicy on the palate with beautiful<br />
clarity, ripe acidity, apple again on the palate. Fine tannins,<br />
multi-faceted without being too complicated, slightly salty<br />
finish. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 Cabernet Blanc trocken<br />
89 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
88 2019 Weissburgunder trocken<br />
88 2019 Chardonnay trocken<br />
88 2019 Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
88 2019 Grauburgunder trocken<br />
89 2018 »Ro{3s}é« trocken<br />
89 2019 »Villa Lauermann« Riesling trocken<br />
Classic Riesling aroma with peach and apricot, also some<br />
apple and fresh mint. Juicy on the palate with good freshness<br />
and balance, ripe acidity and fine fruit sweetness accentuate<br />
this, spicy notes, mineral hints; coherent in itself.<br />
13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
375
WEINBAU DER LEBENSHILFE<br />
Sägmühle 13, 67098 Bad Dürkheim<br />
T: +49 (6322) 938135, weinbau@lebenshilfe-duew.de<br />
www.lebenshilfe-weinbau.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Thursdays 8–12 and<br />
13–16 hrs, Fridays 8–12 and 13–18 hrs, Saturdays 10–14 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Gabriel Huber<br />
Contact: Gabriel Huber<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 120,000 (60 % white, 40 % red)/23 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
If we weren’t trying to be objective in our<br />
judgements, we could easily award brownie<br />
points to this charitable wine estate for its<br />
ethos alone: three dozen people with varying disabilities<br />
work alongside an experienced vineyard<br />
and cellar team. But this kind of pre-emptory<br />
praise is entirely unnecessary. The wines score because<br />
they are well-made and confident. The<br />
Riesling from the Wachenheimer Schlossberg<br />
shows its provenance with tension and power,<br />
the Wachenheim village wine comes with layered<br />
nuances, the one from Dürkheim just makes you<br />
want to take another sip. The only thing we can<br />
criticize: that only four wines were presented.<br />
92 2018 Wachenheim Schlossberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Ripe apple and stone fruit, herbs, apple peel, blood orange,<br />
lime zest, cool mineral note. Juicy with texture on the palate<br />
but also with power and tension, rather broad body. Good balance<br />
with clear expression of origin. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2019 Wachenheim Riesling trocken<br />
Beautifully intricate nose with yellow fruit, floral notes, leafy<br />
green and stony earthy notions. Also yellow-fruited on the<br />
palate with fine accompaniment of citrus, spice and ripe<br />
acidity, underpinned with mineral accents. Multi-layered yet<br />
calm. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2017 »Lebenshilfe Rotwein«<br />
trocken CS/CF/ME<br />
Blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot<br />
with fruity dark berry, black cherry and blackcurrant aromas.<br />
Well balanced on the palate with ripe fruit, juiciness, smooth<br />
tannins and the necessary portion of freshness.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2019 Dürkheim Riesling trocken<br />
The Pfalz salutes us from the glass with ripe yellow fruit<br />
and full-bodied drinking pleasure. Slenderly built with a<br />
fine balance, tightly woven acidity. The ripe, delicate fruit<br />
hooks itself underneath the mineral foundation anchoring<br />
the wine. Beautiful. 12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
376 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT LEILING<br />
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
Hauptstrasse 3, 76889 Schweigen<br />
T: +49 (6342) 7039, post@weingutleiling.de<br />
www.weingutleiling.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: David Leiling<br />
Contact: David Leiling<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 70,000 (60 % white, 40 % red)/15 ha<br />
No, it is not just via his unusual wine label<br />
designs that David Leiling draws<br />
attention and shows that he has guts<br />
to do things differently. On his 15 hectares of<br />
vineyards, the majority of which are across the<br />
French border, he uses the limestone terroir of<br />
Schweigen and its surroundings to grow and<br />
make precise Pinots and Rieslings. He presented,<br />
among other things, a most gluggable rosé<br />
with the practically unpronounceable name<br />
“Prinzessin Vaaleanpunainen” as well as the<br />
fascinating Spätburgunder project “Grandfather<br />
Clones” – a Pinot with excellent ageing<br />
potential.<br />
90 2018 »Prima Ballerina 2.Oak«<br />
Grauer Burgunder Spätlese trocken<br />
Malty, iodine-like on the nose. Reminiscent of yeast flakes,<br />
ripe pear, hazelnut. The wood, alluded to in the wine name is<br />
noticeable on the palate. Marked creaminess with delicate<br />
astringency, spicy aftertaste defined by the chalky terroir.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2018 »Le Patron« Riesling Spätlese trocken<br />
Intense Riesling aromas of grapefruit and lemon zest. The<br />
acidity on the palate is intense and accompanied by a beautiful<br />
minerality. A lovely round wine that makes you want to<br />
have another glass. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2018 »Fräulein Hildegart«<br />
Spätlese trocken CH/WB<br />
88 2018 »Hôpital« Grauer Burgunder<br />
Spätlese trocken<br />
88 2018 »Prima Ballerina« Grauer Burgunder<br />
Spätlese trocken<br />
88 2018 Gewürztraminer<br />
Spätlese halbtrocken<br />
91 2017 »Project Grandfather Clones«<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Spicy scent, bay leaf, blood, almond, juniper. Very softly<br />
drawn wine, then powerful mellow tannins, well integrated<br />
ripe acidity. Appears very closed in structure, more spice<br />
than fruit. Will need a lot of time. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
89 2017 »Die Gefährten« trocken PN/CS/BP<br />
Candied cherry on the nose, dried tomato, blackcurrant and<br />
pepper notes. Supple and powerful on the palate, juicy fruit,<br />
fine, plump tannins. An accessible, fruit-driven but also<br />
structured wine. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2018 »Prinzessin Vaaleanpunainen«<br />
Spätburgunder Rosé trocken<br />
On the nose strawberry, spicy, also plum jam and a hint of<br />
orange blossom. On the palate there is lovely freshness<br />
and structure, supple. Well integrated acidity lends liveliness.<br />
A rosé with character. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
377
WEINGUT JÜRGEN LEINER<br />
Arzheimer Strasse 14, 76831 Ilbesheim<br />
T: +49 (6341) 30621, info@weingut-leiner.de<br />
www.weingut-leiner.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Sven Leiner<br />
Contact: Sven Leiner<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 120,000 (70 % white, 30 % red)/16 ha<br />
There were times when Sven Leiner’s<br />
wines were seen as inaccessible, brittle<br />
and anachronistic – all that at a time,<br />
when biodynamic farmers like Leiner were<br />
still eyed suspiciously – and Leiner was committed<br />
to these methods fifteen years ago. By<br />
now we know that Leiner’s wines need one<br />
thing above all: patience. Then the wines show<br />
how individual, striking, unadulterated and<br />
unconventional they truly are. In the meantime,<br />
the wines also convey Leiner’s experience<br />
and confidence, a winemaker who has<br />
grown into a real personality. Absolute winemaking<br />
craftsmanship!<br />
93 »16 17 18« brut nature<br />
Clear honey yellow. On the nose brioche, almond, lime zest,<br />
light flowers, pear. Fine mousse on the palate, lively acidity,<br />
slightly tannic, lemon, green apple, balanced. Vinous character,<br />
good structure, fine length, elegant. Versatile.<br />
11,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2018 »Kalkbank« Riesling Landwein tr.<br />
The nose reveals apple, flowers and delicate wood aromas,<br />
as well as stone fruit - apricot. Compact structure. On the<br />
palate there is juicy fruit and well-woven fruit sweetness,<br />
texture and charm, spiciness and depth. Very clear in expression,<br />
genuine. Good length. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2018 »Tonmassiv« Chardonnay<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
Deep yellow in the glass. A little apricot, pear and apple skin<br />
on the nose, gentle spice and smoke, vanilla. Powerfully built<br />
on the palate, very juicy with clear fruit, apple and apricot,<br />
fine spices and fresh ginger. Quite elegant, young.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2018 »Kalkbank« Spätburgunder<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
Rosehip, yeast, spice and wild berries, light smoke and toasty<br />
aromas, liquorice, lovage. Settles smoothly in a compact<br />
body on a soft base; spice mingles with raspberry, finely textured<br />
tannins, chalky mineral definition. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2018 »Kalkbank« Weissburgunder<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
91 2018 »Lehmdecke« Grauburgunder<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
89 2019 »handwerk« Chardonnay<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
89 2019 »handwerk« Riesling<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
89 2019 »handwerk« Grauburgunder<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
89 2019 »handwerk« Weissburgunder<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
90 2017 »handwerk« Spätburgunder<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
92 2018 »Lehmdecke« Gewürztraminer<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
Golden yellow in colour. Spicy, intense nose of rose petals,<br />
lychee, redcurrants and fully ripe mango. Full bodied on<br />
the palate and quite dry, slightly viscous, intense, lush but<br />
without being kitsch. 13 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
378 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT LERGENMÜLLER<br />
Weinstrasse 16, 76835 Hainfeld<br />
T: +49 (6323) 94926, info@lergenmueller.de<br />
www.lergenmueller.com<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Jürgen Lergenmüller<br />
Contact: Stefan and Jürgen Lergenmüller<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 750,000 (50 % white, 50 % red)/85 ha<br />
It is a well-known fact that the Pfalz is not<br />
necessarily the place for light-weight<br />
wines. The Lergenmüller estate, however,<br />
has learned how to handle the typical Pfalz<br />
power. Their “Black Ox” from the 2018 vintage<br />
manages to present a harmonious entity<br />
even at an impressive 15.5% ABV. We like to<br />
think of it as a Pfalz curiosity in the same<br />
league as Amarone and Primitivo! Those who<br />
prefer more classical proportions will also find<br />
things to love in the varied Lergenmüller<br />
range: the rather gastronomic whites like the<br />
Grauburgunder “Buntsandstein” or the Weissburgunder<br />
“Muschelkalk”.<br />
90 2019 »Muschelkalk«<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Relatively deep colour. Slightly peppery fragrance, also mirabelle<br />
plum, ripe yellow fruit, peach. Supple attack, then voluminous,<br />
chalky with good freshness and firm acidity. Dynamic<br />
and exciting despite its body. A good food wine.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
93 2018 »Black Ox Blood Edition« tr. CS/TE/DF<br />
Compote of forest berries, blackberry jam, pine honey. On the<br />
palate there is lovely volume, creaminess and intense berry<br />
fruit, the fine tannins give density on the finish. Lively nerve,<br />
the fruit reverberates for a long time. A response to Primitivo.<br />
15,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2017 »Roter Lehm« Merlot trocken<br />
Plum jam, chocolate, vanilla and caramel, rum and raisin.<br />
Creamy and juicy on the attack, firm acidity in a powerful<br />
body, lots of juiciness, grainy tannins show nice maturity,<br />
rounded on the finish. A powerful Merlot. 14,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2018 »Angiolino« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Wild berries, cassis, dark chocolate. On the palate there are<br />
strong tannins and a touch of fruity-vegetal notes, blackberry/leaf<br />
tea, hints of sweetness in the fruit, creamy background,<br />
lots of juiciness and well integrated acidity. Silky finish.<br />
14,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 »Feuerstein«<br />
Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
88 2018 »Pur Mineral« Chardonnay trocken<br />
89 2018 »Handschrift« trocken CS/TE<br />
89 2017 »Urgestein« St. Laurent trocken<br />
90 2019 »Buntsandstein«<br />
Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
Discreet aroma, subtle varietal spice, nutty and berryish<br />
with a hint of wood. Immediately fruit-driven on the palate,<br />
ripe melon, full bodied, ripe acidity and good freshness.<br />
Smooth foundations - a varietal style full of character.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
379
WEINGUT LOHR<br />
Weinsheimer Hauptstrasse 21, 67551 Worms<br />
T: +49 (6241) 33327, post@weingut-lohr.de<br />
www.weingut-lohr.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Frank Lohr<br />
Contact: Frank Lohr<br />
While Weingut Lohr has been<br />
around ever since 1665, it now<br />
seems to have entered a particularly<br />
dynamic phase: this Worms estate is updating<br />
its website and rumour has it that it is all a<br />
bit secretive. “The term change probably best<br />
describes our current work,” the estate will<br />
have us know. One thing is certain: Johanna<br />
Bossert is now part of the team. “We have<br />
merged our paths,” the winemaker from Gundersheim<br />
confirms. Their aim is to “make<br />
wines that are unforgettable.” The wines that<br />
were presented this year have created a change<br />
and represent a new start.<br />
91 2019 Flomborn Goldberg Riesling trocken<br />
Notes of spontaneous fermentation, apple, malt, herbs and<br />
ripe stone fruit, peach. The powerful palate has a clearly defined<br />
stature showing juicy, sweet fruit and ripe acidity. Nice<br />
interplay, good extract, phenolic and multi-layered.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
89 2018 Merlot trocken<br />
90 2019 Flomborn Chardonnay trocken<br />
Ripe pear on the nose, tangerine and apple, leafy with spicy<br />
notes. Well built on the palate with juice and texture, again<br />
spicy and herbal hints. Sweet extract, a layer of fine phenolics,<br />
and a slight tartness on the finish increase the complexity.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 Chardonnay trocken<br />
Ripe apple on the nose, citrus fruit and mirabelle plums,<br />
herbs and flowers come along. Powerfully built on the palate<br />
with sweet extract, juice and texture, pure fruit, ripe apricot.<br />
The ripe acidity is well integrated, fine spice. Generous and<br />
charming. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2016 Riesling brut<br />
Ripe peach fruit, spice and a hint of petrol, a little saffron. On<br />
the palate there is a powerful mousse and good freshness.<br />
Slender construction, ripe and stable acidity fills the palate.<br />
Spicy, demanding but also elegant. Very well made.<br />
12 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Spicy and varietal nose; ripe grapefruit, gooseberry as well<br />
as mango, spicy components and lemongrass. On the palate<br />
there is juicy, vivid acidity and beautiful fruit expression,<br />
fine salty and spicy nuances; slender in structure yet<br />
full-bodied. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
380 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT MARGARETHENHOF<br />
Wiesenweg 4, 67147 Forst an der Weinstrasse<br />
T: +49 (6326) 8302, info@margarethenhof-forst.de<br />
www.margarethenhof-forst.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Martin Lucas and Yvonne Libelli<br />
Contact: Yvonne Libelli<br />
Hectares: 17 ha<br />
By now, dear wine lovers, word should<br />
have got round. But notwithstanding<br />
that, we can only repeat emphatically:<br />
Look out for Margarethenhof in Forst an der<br />
Weinstrasse, an estate that offers exquisite<br />
Riesling at very fair prices. Even the entry-level<br />
Riesling, presented in a litre bottle, shows<br />
exactly what is on offer. What Yvonne Libelli<br />
and her brother Martin Lucas have to offer is<br />
magnificent. The Rieslings from the Forster<br />
top sites Ungeheuer, Musenhang and Pechstein<br />
from the 2018 vintage reach the national<br />
top standard. We congratulate the team on<br />
achieving their third star!<br />
93 2018 Forst Ungeheuer Riesling<br />
Grosse Lage trocken<br />
Shimmering, bright green in the glass, strongly mineral cool<br />
nose, a little iodine with meadow flowers and lime zest. A<br />
very grown-up palate with depth and spice, compact with elegance<br />
and complexity. Very good balance, incredible finish!<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
93 2018 Forst Pechstein Riesling<br />
Grosse Lage trocken<br />
Fragrant herbal nose of thyme and lavender but then also<br />
meadow flowers and white almonds, a hint of cream scent.<br />
Delicate herbs on the palate, a good acid structure balances<br />
the measured substance and gives the wine fresh elegance.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
93 2018 Forst Jesuitengarten Riesling<br />
Grosse Lage trocken<br />
Pretty, light green in the glass. Fragrant nose, cheery delicate<br />
notes of flowering meadows, yellow stone fruit. On the<br />
palate a great mix of delicacy and presence, light and also<br />
density, juicy and tart. Enormous floral finish with lots of elegance.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
93 2019 Forst Musenhang Riesling Erste Lage<br />
Fine cool fragrance of herbs, also mint, then white honey,<br />
finely roasted almonds and orange blossom. On the palate a<br />
fresh and deliciously balanced sweetness is supported by elegant<br />
acidity, skilfully balanced. Delicious - a perfect afternoon<br />
wine! 9,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2019 »Kernstück« Weissburgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 »Basis« Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 Forst Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 »Kernstück« Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 »Kernstück« Chardonnay trocken<br />
89 2019 »Kernstück«<br />
Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
89 2019 »Kernstück« Auxerrois feinherb<br />
91 2019 Deidesheim Herrgottsacker<br />
Riesling Erste Lage trocken<br />
Sparkling straw yellow wine, fragrant nose of white berries,<br />
fresh hay and green pears; smoky notes. On the palate<br />
the crunchy acidity is harmoniously supported by a good<br />
dollop of juicy sweetness. Powerful finish, beautiful!<br />
14 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
381
WEINGUT MEHLING<br />
Weinstrasse 55, 67146 Deidesheim<br />
T: +49 (6326) 274, info@weingut-mehling.de<br />
www.weingut-mehling.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Saturdays 9–12 hrs and<br />
14–18 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Kathrin Otte, Christoph Knäbel<br />
Contact: Kathrin Otte<br />
Hectares: 10 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
With much gusto, the young couple -<br />
Kathrin Otte and Christoph Knäbel<br />
– have turned over a new leaf at<br />
the parental estate – which does justice to the<br />
top sites in their portfolio. Their Erste Lagen<br />
are slender, no-frills, honest and firm throughout<br />
– without affectation but all the more convincing<br />
for it – as well as typical for the vintage.<br />
The step up to the Grosse Lagen is also<br />
clear. These wines, despite being a year older,<br />
still come with promising and reductive notes<br />
of spontaneous fermentation, they show character,<br />
depth and longevity. Keep it coming!<br />
94 2018 Königsbach Ölberg Riesling<br />
Grosse Lage trocken<br />
Dried hay flowers mingle with a pleasant, gentle creaminess<br />
on the nose, giving the impression of something both muted<br />
and ethereal. The palate appears buffered by yeast, although<br />
pithy lemon zest lurks deliciously within the fine freshness.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
air then allows pithy lemon to come through. Clear, pure,<br />
clean on the palate. A very clear line of freshness runs<br />
through the wine which absolutely emphasises the slender,<br />
the pithy, the elegant. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 Deidesheim Paradiesgarten Riesling<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
93 2018 Deidesheim Kalkofen Riesling<br />
Grosse Lage trocken<br />
Wild yeasty notes mingle with tropical mango and passion<br />
fruit overtones and really make you want more. On the palate,<br />
there is even more life; texture, additional spontaneous<br />
yeast notes, bitter zest and pear skin and a wonderful, ripe<br />
juiciness. Needs time but is great. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2018 Forst Ungeheuer Riesling<br />
Grosse Lage trocken<br />
Pear skin, dried lemon zest and wet stony freshness are concentrated<br />
on the nose. The palate is softer and riper but then<br />
so was the vintage. A wonderfully grippy texture provides<br />
structure and the otherwise restrained freshness wins<br />
through on the finish. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2019 Deidesheim Leinhöhle Riesling<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
Ripe mandarine and orange peel are gentle on the nose. More<br />
91 2019 Deidesheim Kieselberg Riesling<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
Ripe stone fruit, pear skin, and hay flower aromas characterise<br />
the nose. The palate is very ripe, characterised by<br />
round stone fruit and pear skin, a little apple core bitterness<br />
offers an attractive counterpoint. The finish could be<br />
even fresher. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
382 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT MEIER<br />
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
Hübühl 9, 76835 Weyher in der Pfalz<br />
T: +49 (6323) 988599, info@wein-meier.de<br />
www.wein-meier.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 14–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 9–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Georg Meier<br />
Contact: Georg Meier<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 100,000 (70 % white, 30 % red)/20 ha<br />
Georg Meier increasingly turns into a<br />
specialist of taut, purist and minerally<br />
expressive Rieslings that come with a<br />
decent vein of acidity, some edginess and enormous<br />
ageing potential. His “2G” Riesling<br />
from the 2018 vintage, matured in a granite<br />
vat, presents a whole lot of tension and still<br />
comes across as youthful. The skin-fermented<br />
Riesling “Schiefer” from 2018 shows all the<br />
signs of an orange wine but in a most cultivated,<br />
mineral fashion. His 20 hectares of vineyards<br />
are now in conversion to organic farming.<br />
The excitement continues in Weyher.<br />
92 2018 »2G« Riesling trocken<br />
The ripe yellow fruit (apricot and peach) on the nose is joined<br />
by stony notes, also spice and a little mint. Good tension on<br />
the palate with traction and well judged power. Athletic stature,<br />
the intense minerality provides character and profile. Individual<br />
and special. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2019 Weyher Michelsberg Riesling trocken<br />
91 2018 »Schiefer« Riesling Landwein trocken<br />
Light amber in colour, with sage, dried apricot and subtle<br />
malty notes on the nose, also wormwood. On the palate<br />
there is less drive but plenty of content; ripe acidity, powerful<br />
tannins and phenolics, good density and a mineral hue.<br />
12 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2018 Burrweiler Altenforst Riesling trocken<br />
Fine, intricate nose with apricot and passion fruit, delicate<br />
spice and smoke. Powerful and firmly structured on the palate<br />
which does not rely on opulent fruit but on cool minerality;<br />
juicy with fine phenolic layers. Purist and demanding.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2015 »Réserve« Hainfeld<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon trocken<br />
Dark aromas on the nose; leather, graphite, cassis, mint and<br />
an ethereal tone. Powerfully built on the palate with forward<br />
drive and a prominent, ripe tannin framework. Sour cherry to<br />
the fore then black cherry and ripe plum, fine minerality.<br />
Complex. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2018 Weyher Michelsberg Riesling tr.<br />
A subtle yellow in the glass, notes of spontaneous fermentation,<br />
rather ripe stone fruit and flashes of mineral. Texture<br />
and power on the palate support the acid structure.<br />
Compact construction, dry and with salty notes. No kitsch,<br />
lots of substance and also minerality. 13,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
383
WEINGUT HERBERT MESSMER<br />
Gaisbergstrasse 5, 76835 Burrweiler<br />
T: +49 (6345) 2770, messmer@weingut-messmer.de<br />
www.weingut-messmer.de<br />
Cellar Door: Wine shop, Weinstrasse 6, Burrweiler:<br />
Wednesdays through Sundays 13–19 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Bernd Henninger<br />
Contact: Martin Messmer<br />
Hectares: 26 ha<br />
Martin Messmer is now alone at the<br />
helm of the estate after Gregor Messmer<br />
stepped down just before the<br />
2019 harvest.Together with manager Jonas<br />
Bosch and cellar master Bernd Henninge, he<br />
presented an excellent range of wines. Their<br />
Riesling from the Burrweiler Schäwer site presents<br />
a flickering mineral savouriness that will<br />
wow connoisseurs. But we also want to draw<br />
your attention to the fact that both estate and<br />
village wines already offer marked reliability.<br />
Achieving such a series of 90-point scores is<br />
not something you see every day. Bravo!<br />
93 2019 Burrweiler Schäwer Riesling GG<br />
Slightly yeasty on the nose but also marked by a flinty slate<br />
spiciness. In addition, subtle late harvest fruit aromas from<br />
orange to mirabelle plum. Dry phenolics on the palate, medium<br />
weight in substance. A Riesling with volume and fire,<br />
poised in tone. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2019 Burrweiler Schlossgarten<br />
Im Goldenen Jost Weissburgunder GG<br />
White flowers on the nose, almond, apricot, citrus and apple.<br />
Strong texture on the palate, ripe and grippy acidity, fine salinity,<br />
well balanced. Has presence but also suppleness and<br />
spiciness, dense and consistent - has character.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2019 »einzig & artig« Weyher Michelsberg<br />
Riesling Erste Lage trocken<br />
Intense smoky nose, honey and beeswax, then spring scents<br />
of lilac and meadow flowers. Juicy and fresh on the palate,<br />
fine, slightly tart acidity that positively stimulates the appetite.<br />
Intense finish with delicate astringency.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2019 Burrweiler Schlossgarten<br />
Chardonnay Erste Lage trocken<br />
Initially very restrained nose, a tentative scent of hay, a little<br />
smoke then orange blossom enters the glass. Initially on the<br />
palate there’s a cool freshness with a delicate creaminess,<br />
notes of coconut and lemon zest, also wet pebbles. Long<br />
mineral finish. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2019 Gleisweiler Hölle Grauburgunder<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
90 2019 »Schiefer« Burrweiler<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 »einzig & artig Devonschiefer«<br />
Burrweiler Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 »Granit« Hainfeld Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 Weissburgunder trocken<br />
90 2019 »Muschelkalk«<br />
Grauburgunder trocken<br />
91 2019 Gelber Muskateller feinherb<br />
Wonderfully fragrant herbal nose of cassis and lovage, linden<br />
blossom and fresh hay, cool and also mineral. On the<br />
palate juicy pairing of delicate sweetness with buffered<br />
acidity. A pure taste of thick, juicy Muscat grapes, only in<br />
liquid form. 12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
384 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT<br />
KARL-HEINZ UND ANDREAS MEYER<br />
Bahnhofstrasse 10, 76831 Heuchelheim-Klingen<br />
T: +49 (6349) 5895, mail@meyer-weingut.de<br />
www.meyer-weingut.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–12 hrs and<br />
13–17 hrs, Saturdays 9–15 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Andreas Meyer and Hauke Kerkau<br />
Contact: Andreas Meyer<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 120,000 (70 % white, 30 % red)/17 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
This family-run estate cultivates 17 hectares<br />
of vineyards in the villages of<br />
Heuchelheim, Klingenmünster and Appenhofen.<br />
Ever since Andreas Meyer joined<br />
his parental estate as cellar master in 2008,<br />
there has been continuous improvement – just<br />
as it should be when innovation meets with experience.<br />
The Riesling from the Heuchelheimer<br />
Herrenpfad is once again a strong performance<br />
with its body and fine minerality. The<br />
aromatic Riesling “Buntsandstein” is an excellent<br />
example of great quality at a moderate<br />
price and has ageing potential!<br />
91 2019 Heuchelheim Herrenpfad<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Lemon yellow. The discreet nose develops a bouquet of lemon,<br />
tangerine peel and yellow apple. The attractive acidity<br />
balances classic Riesling flavours and is complemented by<br />
light minerality. Medium bodied with a good finish.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
well as elderflower. Ripe tannins in a relaxed medium body.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
88 2019 »Kalkmergel« Heuchelheim<br />
Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
91 2019 Heuchelheim Herrenpfad<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Pale golden yellow. On the nose, a scent of hazelnut, ripe<br />
peach and pear. On the palate, medium body, light phenolics,<br />
very lively acidity and complex flavours of passion fruit, pineapple,<br />
mango and white pepper. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 »Muschelkalk« Klingenmünster<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Clear in colour. Medium intense nose of peach, lemon zest,<br />
almond and pastry. On the palate there is sufficient acidity to<br />
balance the above flavours as well as a note of walnut and<br />
gravel. Good finish. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2017 Heuchelheim Herrenpfad<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Ruby in the glass. On the nose a typical, intense aroma of Pinot<br />
Noir; red cherry, raspberry, clove and hibiscus. On the palate<br />
there’s an expressive acidity that balances the aromas as<br />
90 2019 »Buntsandstein« Klingenmünster<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Intense on the nose with a scent of lime, ripe apple and<br />
apricot. On the palate, a lightly phenolic with lively acidity,<br />
again lime and ripe apple as well as tangerine peel and<br />
notes of mango. Already pleasurable but will continue to<br />
evolve. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
385
WEINGUT<br />
KLAUS UND MARIUS MEYER<br />
Theresienstrasse 80a, 76835 Rhodt unter Rietburg<br />
T: +49 (6323) 93233, info@weingut-meyer.com<br />
www.weingut-meyer.com<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Saturdays 14–18 hrs,<br />
Sundays 10–12 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Marius Meyer<br />
Contact: Marius Meyer<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 180,000 (80 % white, 20 % red)/17 ha<br />
This family-run estate in the picturesque<br />
village of Rhodt unter Rietburg makes<br />
wines with structure and depth. This<br />
time round, they have sent us an exciting selection<br />
of wines including three different Sauvignon<br />
Blancs, which all show power, drive and<br />
elegance. The Spätburgunders are scented and<br />
concentrated and make you want to take another<br />
sip. Things have also changed visually:<br />
the design has been elegantly updated. Brown<br />
and grey colours now dominate and symbolise<br />
the greatest treasure of the estate: the soils. At<br />
the same time the wine range was also streamlined<br />
so that even more focus lies on quality.<br />
91 2019 »Fumé« Rhodt unter Rietburg<br />
Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Complex bouquet with light toasted aromas, green pepper,<br />
brioche, ripe peach, quince and lemon. On the palate there’s<br />
a good acid structure; grapefruit, passion fruit and tomato<br />
leaf complete the flavour spectrum. A wine that invites you<br />
to drink it. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2018 Edesheim Spätburgunder trocken<br />
91 2019 Rhodt unter Rietburg In der Blenk<br />
Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
On the nose a delicate note of wood, violets, lemon zest and<br />
ripe peach. On the palate the expressive acidity balances the<br />
concentrated flavours of gooseberry, grapefruit and ripe<br />
peach. Medium body, long finish. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2018 Chardonnay trocken<br />
A discreet scent of yellow apple, pineapple, star fruit and<br />
clove on the nose. On the palate moderate use of wood with<br />
vivid, balanced acidity. Apple again, plus almond; medium<br />
body and nice length. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2018 Rhodt unter Rietburg Rosengarten<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Mid purple. On the nose a rather linear scent of sweet cherries,<br />
juniper and white pepper. On the palate flavours of honeysuckle,<br />
raspberry and redcurrant leaf. Rather lean body with ripe tannins,<br />
lively acidity and good finish. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
90 2019 Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Pale lemon yellow. Intense aromas of gooseberry, green<br />
apple, pear and boxwood. On the palate bell pepper, ripe<br />
honeydew melon, grapefruit and lemon. A typical representation<br />
of the grape variety with lively acidity and a<br />
good finish. 12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
386 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT STEFAN MEYER<br />
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
Edesheimer Strasse 17, 76835 Rhodt unter Rietburg<br />
T: +49 (6323) 2348, weingut@meyer-rhodt.de<br />
www.meyer-rhodt.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 13–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Stefan Meyer<br />
Contact: Stefan Meyer<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 95,000 (50 % white, 50 % red)/12 ha<br />
We are used to the fact that Stefan<br />
Meyer presents us with dense and<br />
substantial Pinots. With this year’s<br />
range of wines, however, his craftmanship and<br />
skill shine even more clearly. Even his entry-level<br />
Pinot Noir “Aus Rhodt” shows grip<br />
and drive. His Pinot Noir from the Rosengarten<br />
site offers balance and elegance. The Pinot<br />
Noir “Schwarzer Letten”, however, is the top<br />
wine with enormous density and tension. But<br />
you should not neglect the white wines, either,<br />
like the juicy Weissburgunder. We send our<br />
compliments to Rhodt unter Rietburg.<br />
92 2019 Rhodt Rosengarten<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Some chamomile, mint and apple show on the multi-layered<br />
nose; yeast, ripe citrus fruit and a touch of incense. Concentrated<br />
on the palate with good substance and juice, the acidity<br />
is confident enough to lead through the compact body.<br />
Young. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
with fine tartness. The tannins are vivid and ripe - good<br />
length. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2018 Rhodt Klosterpfad Syrah trocken<br />
91 2019 Rhodt Rosengarten Chardonnay tr.<br />
Spicy nose with apricot, smoky notes, apple and citrus fruit,<br />
yeasty spice. Spicy on the palate, power and good substance<br />
show on a soft background, notes of white pepper. Dry with<br />
tension and a slight phenolic bitter note. Youthful.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
93 2018 Edenkoben Schwarzer Letten<br />
Pinot Noir trocken<br />
Balsamic spice on the nose, nuances of ink and tar, dark fruit,<br />
lots of black cherry. Rich and full bodied on the palate with<br />
ripe fruit and ripe tannins. Lots of substance, texture and tension<br />
on the mid-palate, spice on the finish. Good ageing potential.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2018 Rhodt Rosengarten Pinot Noir tr.<br />
Blueberry and cherry on the concentrated nose combine<br />
with rose petals and violets, some Darjeeling. Compact, good<br />
balance of power, tension, freshness and elegance, spicy and<br />
90 2018 »Aus Rhodt« Pinot Noir trocken<br />
Concentrated fine nose of cherries, gentle wood spice and<br />
violets, blueberries as well. Powerful and clear contours on<br />
the palate with tension, vivid tannins provide grip. A Pinot<br />
Noir that is fun to drink on its own. Taut and pure.<br />
13 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
387
WEINGUT THEO MINGES<br />
Bachstrasse 11, 76835 Flemlingen, T: +49 (6323) 93350<br />
info@weingut-minges.com, www.weingut-minges.com<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–12 hrs and<br />
13–18 hrs, Saturdays 9–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Theo Minges, Regine Minges, Fritz<br />
Hohlreiter and Lukas Hammelmann<br />
Contact: Theo and Regine Minges<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 180,000 (65 % white, 35 % red)/25 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
There are winemakers who approach<br />
viticulture and oenology with analytical<br />
means and yardsticks. Regine Minges,<br />
however, is not amongst them. “I trust my<br />
gut feelings,” she says, “making decisions with<br />
the heart, I am curious, impulsive and rather<br />
emotional.” She runs the family estate of 25<br />
hectares, organic certified since 2010 together<br />
with her father. She says that “her pulse beats<br />
in tune with nature, whose energy she wants to<br />
transfer to the bottle as a kind of - mediator.”<br />
The wines are like the winemaker herself: expressive,<br />
full of tension, emotion and feeling. A<br />
strong performance!<br />
94 2019 Burrweiler Schäwer Riesling GG<br />
Blood orange and yellow plum on the nose. On the palate<br />
there is a profound texture but also a firm extract, both mineral<br />
and phenolic. A powerful wine with great intensity and<br />
exceptional depth. Very aromatic on the finish.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2019 Gleisweiler Hölle Unterer Faulenberg<br />
Riesling GG<br />
Lovely floral scent, apple blossom, honey, kumquat. Dense,<br />
homogeneous phenolics on the palate; pithy acidity, taut and<br />
bundled, disciplined alcohol, mineral. Currently still very introverted,<br />
with a strong disposition for an exceedingly long<br />
bottle age. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2019 Böchingen Rosenkranz Im untern<br />
Kreuz Weissburgunder GG<br />
Fruity, powerful and also floral nose; blossom, apricots, a<br />
hint of marzipan. Juicy and spicy on the palate, with good<br />
density and substance, phenolic richness. Combines classic<br />
and modern Pfalz. Stylish and long, fine saltiness on the finish.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2017 Böchingen Rosenkranz Zinkelerde<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Pinot scent on the nose; violets, rose, cherries, crushed juniper<br />
berries, smoke and wood spice. With good substance and<br />
tension on the palate, strong acidity, dry and juicy, the tannins<br />
are prominent and still slightly astringent.<br />
Will age well – potential. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2019 Gleisweiler Hölle Riesling trocken<br />
91 2019 »Kalkmergel« Chardonnay trocken<br />
90 2019 »Muschelkalk« Grauburgunder tr.<br />
90 2019 »Edition Rosenduft«<br />
Gewürztraminer trocken<br />
90 2019 Gleisweiler Im oberen Letten<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 »Buntsandstein« Riesling trocken<br />
92 2017 Böchingen Rosenkranz<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
91 2019 Böchingen Rosenkranz<br />
Grauburgunder trocken<br />
Lemon yellow in the glass. Medium intensity of a very elegant<br />
scent of pear, white peach and honeysuckle. On the<br />
palate, aromas of fresh melon, almond and lemon peel are<br />
added. Powerful construction, balanced by lively acidity.<br />
Very good finish. 13,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
388 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT GEORG MOSBACHER<br />
Weinstrasse 27, 67147 Forst<br />
T: +49 (6326) 329, info@georg-mosbacher.de<br />
www.georg-mosbacher.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–12 hrs and<br />
13.30–18 hrs, Saturdays 10–13 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Jürgen Düringer<br />
Contact: Sabine Mosbacher-Düringer<br />
Hectares: 22 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
The exquisite Rieslings from Weingut<br />
Mosbacher are always also an introduction<br />
to the terroirs of the top sites in<br />
Forst, Deidesheim and Wachenheim. Sabine<br />
Mosbacher-Düringer and her husband Jürgen<br />
Düringer manage to make all the differences<br />
deliciously detectable. Their Grosses Gewächs<br />
from the Forster Ungeheuer site thus moves<br />
centre stage. One of our tasters noted that<br />
“both nerve and minerality come with high<br />
voltage” in this wine. And we should not forget<br />
their idiosyncratic Sauvignon Blanc<br />
“Fumé”. We simply would like to have more<br />
of these delightful liquid lessons of terroir.<br />
93 2019 Forst Ungeheuer Riesling GG<br />
Tangy and fruity on the nose; ripe peach and a hint of blackcurrant,<br />
plus light stony notes. The palate is a paradigm of<br />
the Ungeheuer; powerful with a strong core, enigmatically<br />
mild and supple with nerve and minerality supplying high<br />
voltage. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
that builds continuously and skilfully.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2018 »SL« Weissburgunder trocken<br />
92 2019 Forst Musenhang Riesling<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
The bouquet shows apple and candied citrus fruit, apricot,<br />
herbs and flowers. Slenderly built with vivid and integrated<br />
acidity and citrus fruit. Finely balanced elements, shows elegance<br />
and also its origin with a pronounced mineral timbre.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2019 »Fumé« Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Compact and spicy nose with ripe gooseberry and redcurrants,<br />
floral notes. On the palate; juicy with a nice spiciness,<br />
well built and harmonious in proportion. Shows elegance and<br />
an independent, local interpretation of an international<br />
grape variety. Impressive. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2019 »Basalt« Riesling trocken<br />
Stone fruit on the nose with herbs, apple and mirabelle<br />
plums, as well as warm stone. Opens with a sophisticated<br />
and juicy acidity on the palate, fine herbal tartness, ripe<br />
stone fruit and a slight saltiness - a Riesling rich in nuance<br />
91 2019 Deidesheim Leinhöhle Riesling<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
Apple and apple peel on the nose, apricot, herbal and mineral<br />
hints. On the palate there is a clear mineral foundation,<br />
herbs and citrus fruit, kumquats and grapefruit. Well<br />
integrated acidity, clear contours and clear expression.<br />
13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
389
WEINGUT EUGEN MÜLLER<br />
Weinstrasse 34a, 67147 Forst<br />
T: +49 (6326) 330, kontakt@weingut-eugen-mueller.de<br />
www.weingut-eugen-mueller.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–12 hrs and<br />
13.30–18 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Stephan Müller and Jürgen Meissner<br />
Contact: Stephan Müller<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 145,000 (90 % white, 10 % red)/17 ha<br />
The scores that Christine and Stephan<br />
Müller of Weingut Eugen Müller<br />
achieve for their Rieslings sound like<br />
long-lasting applause. This is well-deserved, of<br />
course, since Stephan Müller manages to<br />
make Forst’s top sites sing and speak – whether<br />
he does so with his exquisite dry Spätlese<br />
from the Kirchenstück or with his no less impressive<br />
Rieslings from the Ungeheuer, Jesuitengarten<br />
and Pechstein sites. This is the stuff<br />
great Riesling is made of – beginning with the<br />
dry and mineral-savoury Kabinett which we<br />
selected as our Falstaff-Tip.<br />
94 2019 Forst Kirchenstück Riesling<br />
Spätlese trocken<br />
Fine smoke, apricot, rosehip, candied lemon peel, stony<br />
notes. Juicy on the palate with ripe acidity, a dash of sweetness,<br />
compact structure, slightly phenolic, tension and traction.<br />
Clear terroir character, minerality determines the finish.<br />
Great potential. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2018 Forst Kirchenstück Riesling<br />
Spätlese trocken<br />
Spicy and smoky nose with ripe stone fruit, bay leaf, spices,<br />
ripe peach and mirabelle plum. Generous on the palate with<br />
ripe, sweet fruit and smooth acidity, almost viscous in flow.<br />
Creamy, yet with tension and liveliness to the minerality.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2019 Forst Ungeheuer Im Ziegler Riesling<br />
Spätlese trocken<br />
Fine fragrance of apricot and peach, delicate woody perfume<br />
and spices. Juicy on the palate with some residual sweetness<br />
that is well integrated, firm and taut construction. Good<br />
volume and extract, playful yet straightforward acidity, cool<br />
minerality. Young and long. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2019 Forst Kirchenstück Riesling Auslese<br />
Deep, clear yellow. Rather subdued nose, with aeration<br />
comes blossom honey then papaya, a mineral underlay, ripe<br />
citrus fruit and herbal spice. Dense and complex on the palate,<br />
vibrant acidity, rich fruit, texture, tension and balance.<br />
Great future, finishes long and fresh. 10 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2019 Forst Pechstein Riesling<br />
Spätlese trocken<br />
92 2019 Forst Jesuitengarten<br />
Riesling Spätlese trocken<br />
90 2019 Forst Ungeheuer Riesling<br />
Kabinett trocken<br />
88 2019 Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
88 2019 Riesling Kabinett trocken<br />
88 2019 Weissburgunder Kabinett trocken<br />
91 2015 »Alte Reben« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
90 2019 Forst Jesuitengarten Riesling<br />
Kabinett trocken<br />
The nose shows its class and origin; alongside fine yellow/<br />
apricot fruit there are mineral hints and a stony spiciness.<br />
Taut on the palate with good freshness, straightforward<br />
acidity, a slender body, juicy, spicy with clear minerality.<br />
Beautiful! 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
390 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT MÜNZBERG<br />
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
Böchinger Strasse 51, 76829 Landau-Godramstein<br />
T: +49 (6341) 60935, wein@weingut-muenzberg.de<br />
www.weingut-muenzberg.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–12 hrs and<br />
14–18 hrs, Saturdays 10–15 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Nico Kessler<br />
Contact: Gunter Kessler<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 120,000 (79 % white, 21 % red)/17 ha<br />
With Gunter, Nico and Friedrich<br />
Kessler, a proper family-trio, now<br />
work together at this farm that lies<br />
picturesquely at the foot of the Münzberg.<br />
Over the past years, the estate has strengthened<br />
its profile for Pinot varieties and that trajectory<br />
continues. Their Weissburgunders now<br />
have less Pfalz roundness than before while<br />
the Chardonnays almost have something ascetic<br />
abut them now. This year, we were also<br />
most impressed with the Spätburgunders<br />
which combine textured depth with elegance<br />
and have beautifully layered aromas. This estate<br />
is now on our watchlist for a fourth star.<br />
93 2019 Godramstein Stahlbühl<br />
Chardonnay Erste Lage trocken<br />
Medium golden yellow. Intense on the nose; a scent of brioche,<br />
vanilla, lemon zest, pineapple and ripe yellow apple. The tangy<br />
acidity balances additional flavours of pineapple and star fruit.<br />
Complex, juicy and with a very good finish. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2019 Godramstein Schneckenberg<br />
Grauburgunder Erste Lage trocken<br />
Cream coloured with a reddish shimmer. Beguilingly berry-like<br />
on the nose. Blueberry, wild raspberry, fine phenolics<br />
on the palate, creamy, delicate texture, supporting the delicate<br />
but long-lasting acidity. Substantial and gentle in style<br />
with radiant fruit on the finish. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
93 2017 Godramstein Münzberg<br />
Schlangenpfiff Spätburgunder GG<br />
Mint on the nose plus cherries and blueberries, smoke, herbs<br />
and spices. Textured and juicy on the palate, the ripe acidity<br />
carries through the powerfully built body. Emphatically dry,<br />
powerfully extracted tannins. Still slightly astringent, good<br />
ageing potential. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2017 Godramstein Affolter<br />
Spätburgunder Erste Lage trocken<br />
A very complex Pinot Noir! Aromas of fresh raspberries and<br />
pine needles combined with a slight resinous note. Its acidity<br />
is fresh and yet very well integrated. A very elegant and fresh<br />
Pinot with extremely persistent minerality.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2019 Godramstein Münzberg<br />
Schlangenpfiff Weisser Burgunder GG<br />
92 2019 Godramsteiner Ochsenloch<br />
Weissburgunder Erste Lage trocken<br />
91 2019 »Kalkgestein« Godramstein<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
90 2019 Weissburgunder trocken<br />
90 2019 »Kalkgestein« Godramstein<br />
Chardonnay trocken<br />
90 2019 »Löss-Lehm« Godramstein<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 Godramstein Grauburgunder trocken<br />
92 2019 »Kalkmergel« Godramstein<br />
Chardonnay trocken<br />
Lemon yellow in the glass. Fine fragrance of pineapple,<br />
ripe apple and vanilla. On the palate there are further complex<br />
flavours of lemon zest, apricot, brioche and chalk all<br />
balanced by a lively acidity. Slightly phenolic but very good<br />
finish. 13,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
391
WEINGUT NAUERTH-GNÄGY<br />
Müllerstrasse 5, 76889 Schweigen-Rechtenbach<br />
T: +49 (6342) 919042, info@nauerth-gnaegy.de<br />
www.nauerth-gnaegy.de<br />
Cellar Door: Saturdays 9–17 hrs, Mondays through<br />
Fridays by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Michael Gnägy and Mareen Nauerth<br />
Contact: Nauerth-Gnägy<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 180,000 (60 % white, 40 % red)/30 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
Mareen Nauerth and Michael Gnägy of<br />
the 2011-founded Weingut Nau erth-<br />
Gnägy seem to have emerged as the<br />
fourth force to be reckoned with in the village of<br />
Schweigen, behind the famous estates of Friedrich<br />
Becker, Jülg and Bernhart. We already know that<br />
the limestone soils are particularly suited to Pinot<br />
varieties and this is a fact that this winemaking<br />
couple know how to exploit more and more. Their<br />
30 hectares of vineyards are farmed organically<br />
and some of the vines are on Alsace soil, across the<br />
French border. The Weissburgunder shows substance<br />
and limestone-savouriness, the Spätburgunders<br />
show density and elegance. Châpeau!<br />
90 2019 »ng.3« Schweigen-Rechtenbach<br />
Lorch Weissburgunder trocken<br />
White flowers on the nose, yellow apple and apricot, as well<br />
as delicate wood spice. Well built on the palate with substance<br />
and volume; ripe acidity blends in, spicy notes, juicy,<br />
chalky mineral tinge. Ripe fruit results in a coherent and multi-layered<br />
overall picture. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
beetroot and freshly crushed juniper berries. Soft on the palate<br />
with beautiful cherry fruit. Dry and with precise acidity,<br />
ripe tannin structure, mineral underpinning.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 »ng.2« Gewürztraminer trocken<br />
89 2019 »ng.3« Schweigen-Rechtenbach<br />
Pfarrwingert Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
Ripe pear shows on the nose; toasted walnuts, ripe honeydew<br />
melon, bee honey and smoky hints. Smooth approach to the<br />
palate which shows sweet extract and soft acidity; juicy and<br />
spicy, powerful stature. Pinot Gris that can mature.<br />
14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
91 2015 »ng.3« Schweigen Sonnenberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Woody spicy notes on the powerful nose; cassis, toasted aromas<br />
and smoke, bay leaf and forest floor. Powerful on the<br />
palate with good concentration and tension, strong and ripe<br />
tannins that are still slightly astringent; somewhat peppery<br />
and spicy, mineral spiciness. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2014 Schweigen-Rechtenbach<br />
Herrenwingert Pinot Noir trocken<br />
Cassis on the concentrated nose, black cherries, stony spice,<br />
90 2019 »ng.3« Schweigen-Rechtenbach<br />
Herrenwingert Chardonnay trocken<br />
Spicy and juicy Chardonnay that underlines the excellence<br />
of the Schweigen vineyards for Pinot varieties. Aromas of<br />
herbs, apple, mirabelle and subtle smoke, citrus fruit.<br />
Creamy on the palate with ripe acidity, consistent and not<br />
too sweet, mineral. 13,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
392 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT NEHB<br />
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
Im Auweg 44, 67269 Grünstadt-Asselheim<br />
T: +49 (6359) 6437, info@weingut-nehb.de<br />
www.weingut-nehb.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Saturdays 8–12 hrs and<br />
13–18 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Sascha Nehb<br />
Contact: Sascha Nehb<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 100,000 (50 % white, 50 % red)/15 ha<br />
Sascha Nehb seems to have a predilection<br />
for grape varieties which never seem to<br />
play more than a supporting role for<br />
other winemakers: Schwarzriesling (aka Pinot<br />
Meunier), Cabernet Mitos and Regent regularly<br />
reach heights here. His Schwarzriesling<br />
“unfiltriert” from the Goldberg site shows<br />
substance and an attractive tartness of fruit. Its<br />
counterpart “Terroir Calcaire” impresses with<br />
its limestone undernotes, while the Cabernet<br />
Mitos convinces with its savoury and herbal<br />
scent. Likewise, the Riesling “Terrain Calcaire”<br />
shows structure and style. Sascha Nehb<br />
always has pleasant surprises up his sleeve.<br />
90 2019 »Terrain Calcaire« Mühlheim<br />
Grafenstück Riesling Spätlese trocken<br />
Apple notes on the nose, peach and herbs, also chalky mineral<br />
hints. Spicy and juicy on the palate with good structure<br />
and balance, fruit and acidity are well balanced. Attractive<br />
lemon juice flows across the palate. Good substance - a<br />
Spätlese with style. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 Mühlheim Grafenstück Chardonnay<br />
Spätlese trocken<br />
Pear, citrus fruit and lemongrass, ripe apple and plum on the<br />
nose. Spicy juiciness on the palate, accompanying fruit<br />
sweetness, powerful construction. Has the structure to go<br />
with hearty food. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 Mühlheim Grafenstück<br />
Grauer Burgunder Spätlese trocken<br />
Pear skin, quince and pear, rosehip and herb garden. Juicy<br />
and varietal Pinot Gris with late harvest character. Well built<br />
and depicting the cheery fullness of the grape variety in a<br />
conclusive way without taking it over the top. Fine spiciness.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2018 »unfiltriert« Asselheim Goldberg<br />
Schwarzriesling trocken<br />
Concentrated nose of elderberry, blackberry, some blood orange<br />
and ginger, wood spice. Dry on the palate, no frills, tart<br />
fruit and some dark chocolate. Full bodied and with good<br />
substance, the tannins are prominent and give support. Individual<br />
in character. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
88 2019 Sauvignon Blanc<br />
88 2018 Mühlheim Grafenstück<br />
Blanc de Noir Spätburgunder trocken<br />
88 2018 Mühlheim Grafenstück<br />
Spätburgunder Rosé<br />
89 2017 Asselheim Goldberg<br />
Cabernet Mitos Barrique trocken<br />
89 2017 Asselheim Höllenpfad<br />
Dornfelder Barrique trocken<br />
88 2018 Asselheim Goldberg<br />
Schwarzriesling trocken<br />
88 2018 Asselheim Höllenpfad Regent feinherb<br />
89 2018 »Terrain Calcaire« Asselheim<br />
Goldberg Schwarzriesling trocken<br />
Elderberry and elderberry conserve, wild raspberry and<br />
blackberry, gentle wood spice. Grip on the palate, firm,<br />
powerful texture and fine tart fruit. The tannins have the<br />
right bite and maturity, chalky mineral underpinning. An<br />
asset at the table. 13 Vol.-%, cork, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
393
WEINGUT FRIEDHELM NEU<br />
Weidenhof 3, 67098 Leistadt<br />
T: +49 (6322) 793632, info@weingut-neu.de<br />
www.weingut-neu.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays, Thursdays and Fridays 15–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays and Sundays 11–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Friedhelm Neu<br />
Contact: Friedhelm Neu<br />
Hectares: 20 ha<br />
Weingut Friedhelm Neu in Bad<br />
Dürkheim-Leistadt cultivates 20<br />
hectares of vines. “Being located at<br />
the fringes of the Haardt mountain range, the<br />
cool climate affords our wines their beautiful<br />
acidity structure,” manager Friedhelm Neu<br />
says. There is much to discover in his range of<br />
wines: the savoury Roter Riesling, the elegant<br />
Riesling “AR” from the Leistadter Herrenmorgen<br />
site or the smooth Portugieser “AR”.<br />
The fact that Friedhelm Neu also likes to experiment<br />
is borne out in his honest “Sylvaner<br />
Orange”. Exciting!<br />
90 2017 »AR« Leistadt Herrenmorgen<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Aromas of green apple and citrus fruit, lime zest, leafiness.<br />
Juicy and spicy on the palate, well judged, balanced acid<br />
structure. Shows on the one hand the ripe fruit of a late harvest<br />
but maintains the freshness and elegance of Riesling, its<br />
depth and expression. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2018 »Sylvaner Orange« Landwein trocken<br />
Spicy and malty notes, rosehip, pear skin, hops, white pepper,<br />
dried apricot and a hint of mint. Powerfully built and with<br />
phenolic layers, rather broad on the palate with ripe acidity.<br />
Dry, unadorned, ideal with food. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2018 »AR« Leistadt Kirchenstück<br />
Portugieser trocken<br />
Sour cherry and plum on the nose, blood orange, toasty aromas<br />
with herbs including dried rosemary. Dry on the palate<br />
with balanced acidity in a powerful, clearly defined body,<br />
grippy and ripe tannins, mineral foundation. Good potential.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2015 Leistadt Herrenmorgen Syrah tr.<br />
Ripe fruit notes on the nose; wild berries, cherry, also chocolate-coated<br />
cherry in Kirsch, blueberry, wood spice, charcoal,<br />
juniper berry and smoked meat. Powerfully built on the palate<br />
with a prominent tannin framework, bold in substance<br />
with good freshness and sour cherry. Dry. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 Leistadt Kalkofen Johanniter trocken<br />
89 2018 Leistadt Herrenmorgen<br />
Chardonnay trocken<br />
88 2019 Leistadt Weissburgunder trocken<br />
88 2019 Leistadt Grauburgunder trocken<br />
88 2018 »Blanc de Noir« Leistadt trocken<br />
89 2018 Leistadt Cabernet Sauvignon trocken<br />
89 NV »Namenlos« Leistadt<br />
trocken CS/DU/SY/DF<br />
90 2019 Leistadt Herzfeld Roter Riesling tr.<br />
Peach and tangerine peel, a touch of candied orange peel,<br />
blossom, ground almonds. Juicy and soft on the palate<br />
with restrained acidity and nice spiciness, ripe stone fruit<br />
and citrus fruit. Powerful, good substance, grip, shows profile<br />
and character, spicy on the finish.<br />
13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
394 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT AM NIL<br />
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
Neugasse 21, 67169 Kallstadt<br />
T: +49 (6322) 8011, info@weingutamnil.de<br />
www.weingutamnil.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–12 hrs and<br />
13–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Till Tempel<br />
Contact: Christine Ludt<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 200,000 (70 % white, 30 % red)/31 ha<br />
When Ana and Reinfried Pohl took<br />
over the reins at this long-standing<br />
estate in September 2010, they renamed<br />
it after the historic site Nil which today<br />
has been incorporated into the Kallstadter<br />
Saumagen. From a total of 30 hectares of vines<br />
in and around Kallstadt, they make wines<br />
which transmit the limestone-characterised<br />
terroir excellently. They have 3.7 hectares<br />
within the top sites Saumagen and Herrenberg<br />
– the Riesling from this clay-influenced site<br />
shines with balance and length, the Spätburgunder<br />
from the Saumagen is complex and has<br />
much potential.<br />
92 2018 Kallstadt Saumagen Riesling trocken<br />
Clear lemon yellow, a fine fragrance of ripe red apple and<br />
lemon zest. On the palate there are flavours of blackcurrant<br />
leaf, lychee and a light note of white pepper. Well balanced<br />
with lively acidity and a long finish. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2018 Ungstein Herrenberg Riesling trocken<br />
Medium lemon yellow. On the nose a fine scent of lemon zest,<br />
lime and yellow apple. On the palate flavours of ripe peach,<br />
lime, nectarine, green apple and tomato leaf, all balanced by<br />
expressive acidity - a good finish. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2019 Ungstein Weilberg Riesling trocken<br />
Medium lemon yellow. Intense scent of ripe apple, pear, bacon.<br />
On the palate extended by flavours of lemon, lime and<br />
peach, poised by pleasing acidity. The wine has an exciting,<br />
unusual complexity and a good length.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
92 2017 Kallstadt Saumagen<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
On the nose the initially slightly smoky nose develops into<br />
complex aromas of sour cherry, young raspberry and clove.<br />
On the palate also redcurrants, wet stone and mushrooms<br />
with well integrated acidity. Has ageing potential.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2019 Kallstadt Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 Kallstadt Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
88 2019 Kallstadt Chardonnay trocken<br />
88 2019 Grauburgunder trocken<br />
88 2019 Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
88 2017 »Púrpura« trocken CF/ME/CS<br />
91 2018 Riesling Brut<br />
Distinctly yeasty on the nose, buttery, brioche, but also<br />
herbaceous Riesling aromas. Fresh and exciting on the palate,<br />
lively mousse, firm acidity, good sweetness emphasising<br />
the fruit. Has expression, freshness and juiciness.<br />
11,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
395
GUT OBERCARLENBACH<br />
Hauptstrasse 23, 67271 Kleinkarlbach<br />
T: +49 (176) 23447014, info@obercarlenbach.de<br />
www.obercarlenbach.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Bernd Meckel<br />
Contact: Bernd Meckel<br />
Hectares: 4 ha<br />
This is only the third vintage that Bernd and<br />
Annette Meckel have presented for tasting<br />
and each year their wines show more character<br />
and courage: winemaker Bernd Meckel<br />
largely avoids any mellowing residual sweetness<br />
while maturation in small barrels lends a firm<br />
structure to the wines. They are slender but bundled<br />
and come in an uncompromisingly purist style<br />
– like the Riesling from the Herrenberg site, for instance,<br />
or the Müller-Thurgau from the Liebesbrunnen<br />
site. With a little air, the wines show their<br />
full stature. The red wines, like the Pinot from the<br />
Kieselberg, show substance and feeling. You will<br />
have to look elsewhere for mainstream. Well done!<br />
90 2019 Kleinkarlbach Herrenberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Still quite closed nose with yeast and herbs, smoke and<br />
toasted aromas. Taut, lean with a compact build. Uncompromising<br />
and emphatically dry, fine lemon juice on the palate.<br />
Unusual Riesling that avoids the mainstream and shows its<br />
special character. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2017 »Laurentius Réserve«<br />
St. Laurent trocken<br />
Plum on the nose, ripe black cherry, also blackberry, dark<br />
chocolate and strong wood spice. Powerfully built on the palate<br />
with a natural character and no supporting sweetness,<br />
the wood is tied in with lots of spice. Shows its pure character<br />
and nature. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2018 »Rosé Réserve« trocken<br />
89 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
Ripe apple and also a fine cider notes on the nose, citrus fruit<br />
and stone fruits such as apricot and mirabelle plum, white<br />
flowers, blade of mace. Well balanced on the palate with<br />
charming fruit and balanced sweetness; finely rounded, but<br />
with a slight and distinctive astringency – harmonious.<br />
12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
91 2017 »Pinot« Kleinkarlbach Kieselberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Elegant aromas of red cherry, redcurrants, some orange peel<br />
and fine smoke. Calm on the palate with ripe, flowing acidity<br />
with tannins that are ripe and solid, good balance. A grownup<br />
Pinot Noir with structure and feeling. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2019 Dackenheim Liebesbrunnen<br />
Müller-Thurgau trocken<br />
Müller-Thurgau endowed with a firm structure via ageing<br />
in small wooden barrels, slenderly bundled and dry, purist<br />
and yet also generous with ripe apple, citrus fruit and<br />
herbs. Straightforward acidity, good extract, slender format<br />
with plenty of stuffing. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
396 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT OBERHOFER<br />
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
Am Linsenberg 1, 67483 Edesheim<br />
T: +49 (6323) 944911, pascal@weingutoberhofer.de<br />
www.weingutoberhofer.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Pascal Oberhofer<br />
Contact: Pascal Oberhofer<br />
Hectares: 25 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
The fact that young Pascal Oberhofer<br />
looks to the world for inspiration is immediately<br />
evident in his wines. His ambition<br />
is apparent, and so is his drive for quality.<br />
His parents, who converted the estate to<br />
organic farming as early as 2008, lend their<br />
full support. Their know-how when it comes<br />
to fresh Gewürztraminer is in their DNA: in<br />
the Rhodter Rosengarten site, they look after<br />
the oldest vines in all of Germany and manage<br />
to wring precious and fine juice from these ancient<br />
Gewürztraminer vines year after year.<br />
The Spätburgunders not only show ambition<br />
but point to rare talent.<br />
89 2017 »Chardonnay Crémant Pfalz«<br />
brut nature<br />
A little yeast, buttery notes, ripe yellow fruit, apricot. On the<br />
palate; full bodied with a firm core but not aggressive, fresh<br />
mousse, lively acidity and a savoury astringency. A very good<br />
aperitif due to its dry nature. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
89 2018 Edesheim Madonnenhöhe<br />
Chardonnay trocken<br />
Creamy oak and creamy generosity are pronounced on the<br />
nose. The nutty, oaky resonance is great on the palate; a little<br />
mirabelle plum joins in, as does discreet freshness. Lovers of<br />
supple Chardonnays can feast on this. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
93 2017 Edesheim Kirchberg Spätburgunder tr.<br />
Both smoke and earthy tones are gentle and elegant on the<br />
nose. On the palate, illuminating freshness encounters firm<br />
but fine tannins, pleasantly bitter phenolics and smoky fruit<br />
is a singular pleasure. A masterstroke of elegance.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2017 Edesheim Apfelgarten<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Wet earth and wet, fallen oak leaves can be made out along<br />
with a light, flinty reduction. Firm tannins on the palate, fine<br />
phenolics, bright, fresh, beautiful Pinot acidity and elegant concentration.<br />
Slender but profound. Bravo! 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2019 Edesheim Forst Gewürztraminer tr.<br />
Fragrant, soft, creamy rose tones mingle with orange peel<br />
on the nose. On the palate, the orange peel comes to the<br />
fore, is mouthwatering and stimulating and provides plenty<br />
of texture. The finish is fresh and tart which suits the<br />
rose aroma very well. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
397
WEINGUT PETRI<br />
Weinstrasse 43, 67273 Herxheim am Berg<br />
T: +49 (6353) 2345, info@weingut-petri.de<br />
www.weingut-petri.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–12 hrs and<br />
13.30–18 hrs, Saturdays 10–12 hrs and 13.30–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Philipp Petri<br />
Contact: Maximilian Petri<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 180,000 (65 % white, 35 % red)/22 ha<br />
These two brothers are just itching to see<br />
how far they can go. Maximilian and<br />
Philipp Petri, who only took the reins in<br />
cellar and estate in 2018, are courageous.<br />
Their Rieslings are deliberately made in a slender<br />
fashion, avoiding all that is opulent, fleshy<br />
and yellow-fruited. Instead they show the fruit<br />
of green apple and citrus notes, a phenolic tang<br />
and limestone spiciness. It is a style of wine<br />
that may come across as provocative and may<br />
not be for everyone: but we appreciate this<br />
courageous and clear signature. We wonder<br />
what will happen next in Herxheim am Berg.<br />
91 2019 Herxheim Honigsack Am Goldberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Ripe apple, stone fruit, citrus fruit and orange peel, spices<br />
such as anise on the nose. Strikingly slender on the palate,<br />
not aiming for ripeness or concentration, but taut and with<br />
fine tartness, green apples and lemon juice. Clear signature<br />
with emphasis on slenderness. 11 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
earthy notes and wood spice. With a clear sense of purpose<br />
the wine is powerfully built, dynamic across the palate, with<br />
juicy fruit and good sweet extract. Good potential.<br />
14,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 Auxerrois trocken<br />
91 2019 Kallstadt Saumagen<br />
Riesling Spätlese trocken<br />
Not a nose that emphasises primary fruit; candied orange<br />
peel, herbs, spice, some apricot, stony notes. In a lean and<br />
taut form, there are citrus notes and tart apple, pronounced<br />
acidity, mineral, stimulating and without an ounce of fat.<br />
Provocative, good. 12 Vol.-%. cork, €<br />
91 2019 Kallstadt Saumagen Horn<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Tangerine peel on the nose, ripe apple, citrus fruit and herbs.<br />
Lean and with a firm structure on the palate, taut acidity,<br />
lemon juice and green apple. Avoids the lush and emphasises<br />
tension. Phenolic and with a slight astringency - unconventional.<br />
12 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2018 Herxheim Himmelreich<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon trocken<br />
Ripe and full fruit, lots of cassis, blackberry, tobacco smoke,<br />
89 2019 Kallstadt Riesling Kabinett trocken<br />
Finely woven nose with apple and stone fruit, a hint of lemon<br />
zest, verbena and also stony notes. A slenderly built and<br />
juicy Kabinett with notes of citrus fruit, dynamic acidity<br />
that blends in well, apple notes and a fine astringency. No<br />
kitsch. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
398 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT HEINZ PFAFFMANN<br />
1616 PFAFFMANN<br />
Hauptstrasse 19-25, 76833 Walsheim<br />
T: +49 (6341) 61696, info@pfaffmann-wein.de<br />
www.1616pfaffmann.com<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–17 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 9–15 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Eugen Schurk<br />
Contact: Gustav Pfaffmann<br />
Hectares: 160 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
Things are afoot in Germany’s largest organic<br />
wine estate with its160 hectares of<br />
vineyards. It is run by Gustav Pfaffmann<br />
but in the meantime, the new generation, represented<br />
by Kanupriya and Pawel Hener, are making<br />
their mark. All the wines have a convincing,<br />
natural and almost sensuous nature, they have a<br />
fine balance that avoids extremes or excesses.<br />
The Beerenauslese made from Huxelrebe turned<br />
out exquisitely, the voluminous Chardonnay<br />
shows ageing potential, the Merlot impresses<br />
with fined structure and polished fruit. The Frühburgunder<br />
from the 2018 vintage has aged gracefully.<br />
The estate continues its upward trajectory.<br />
91 2017 Chardonnay Kalksteinmergel trocken<br />
Powerful nose with ripe pineapple and toast aromas; wood<br />
spice, beeswax, pear and papaya. Broad on the palate with<br />
volume and power and flashes of incense. Medium density<br />
with a nice spiciness and juiciness. Opulent Chardonnay that<br />
can mature further. 15 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
94 2015 Nussdorfer Bischofskreuz<br />
Huxelrebe Beerenauslese<br />
Rich, clear yellow. Aromas of dried fruits, quince jam, some<br />
blossom honey, sultanas and dried apricot. Textured sweetness<br />
on the palate, blossom honey, candied orange, lively<br />
acidity. Lots of spice, tension and potential. Long and powerful.<br />
12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
89 2018 Gewürztraminer<br />
Kalksteinfels feinherb<br />
91 2008 Frühburgunder<br />
im Barrique gereift trocken<br />
Deep rusty red at the rim and showing notes of evolution on<br />
the nose - soy sauce, rosehip, miso and smoked bacon, but<br />
also some primary fruit aromas. On the palate there is nice<br />
presence and good freshness, textured tannins, with light<br />
green tones on the finish. Maturing beautifully.<br />
14 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2019 Merlot Lössboden trocken<br />
Blackberry and plum show on the nose along with blueberry<br />
and elderberry. The palate is fruity with accentuated clarity,<br />
a powerful structure, ripe tannins, fine fruit compote and<br />
delicate acid structure. Merlot with an intact balance, very<br />
harmonious. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 Sauvignon Blanc Kalksteinmergel tr.<br />
A Sauvignon Blanc with a restrained and fine-smelling<br />
nose; aromas of grapefruit, mango and redcurrants. On the<br />
palate, slenderly built, juicy, with mild acidity and fine<br />
spice. Clear in expression, light feet on its feet and coherent<br />
in itself. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
399
WEINGUT TINA PFAFFMANN<br />
Am Stahlbühl, 76833 Frankweiler<br />
T: +49 (6345) 1364, info@tina-pfaffmann.de<br />
www.tina-pfaffmann.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 10–17 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–15 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Tina Pfaffmann<br />
Contact: Tina Pfaffmann<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 200,000 (99 % white, 1 % red)/30 ha<br />
Tina Pfaffman knows how to lift the<br />
mood. Her wines are just the same:<br />
sunny and carefree, always prettily attired<br />
and utterly without fault. Nonetheless,<br />
this Frankweiler winemaker knows how to<br />
imbue that harmonious nature of her wines<br />
with real substance – like her berry-ish Burgunders<br />
“Exklusiv”– both for Weiss and Grau.<br />
She stakes a claim towards much greater terroir<br />
expression with her Riesling “Oberer Affolter”-<br />
it will be a savoury delectation in two<br />
to three years. Lifted mood guaranteed!<br />
91 2019 Frankweiler Königsgarten<br />
Oberer Affolter Riesling trocken<br />
Lemon yellow and clear in the glass. On the nose scents of<br />
lemon, ripe apple, pear and wet stone. On the palate there is<br />
zesty acidity, complemented by a hint of apricot. Expressive<br />
and very well balanced. A medium body with a long finish.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 »Exklusiv« Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
Slightly buttery on the nose, with ripe Pinot berry notes,<br />
blueberry and cashew nuts. Full on the palate with an elegant<br />
sweetness-acidity interplay. Soft foundation, appetising<br />
fruit, finishes with juiciness and delicate sweetness. A ripe,<br />
fruit-bearing varietal style. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 »No 9« Riesling trocken<br />
89 2018 »Ü 40« Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
89 2019 »Blanc de Noir Exklusiv«<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
88 2019 Weissburgunder trocken<br />
88 2019 »2.0« Gelber Muskateller trocken<br />
88 2019 »Pink« Rosé<br />
90 2019 »Exklusiv« Weisser Burgunder trocken<br />
Pale lemon yellow. On the nose, scents of young hazelnut,<br />
lime and ripe pear. Medium bodied on the palate with good<br />
acidity which sufficiently balances further flavours of ripe,<br />
sweet peach and lemon zest. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 »Herzglück« Riesling<br />
Fragrance develops in the glass; mango, peach and lime. On<br />
the palate, a light herbal note is added, accompanied by honeydew<br />
melon and nectarine. The lively acidity ideally balances<br />
the residual sugar for a fine tart flavour.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 »Schick und Schön« Riesling trocken<br />
Lemon yellow in the glass. Varietal aroma of lemon, lime<br />
and green apple. On the palate there is lively acidity, delicate<br />
sweetness - the aromas on the nose are supplemented<br />
by nectarine, apricot and sweet peach.<br />
13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
400 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT PFEFFINGEN<br />
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
Pfeffingen 2, 67098 Bad Dürkheim<br />
T: +49 (6322) 8607, info@pfeffingen.de<br />
www.pfeffingen.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–12 hrs and<br />
13–18 hrs, Saturdays 9–12 hrs and 13–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Rainer Gabel<br />
Contact: Doris, Jan and Karin Eymael<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 100,000 (85 % white, 15 % red)/17 ha<br />
This long-standing estate – where the<br />
family has been making wine since the<br />
17th century – is known for its absolutely<br />
constant wine quality. Jan Eymael and<br />
his cellar master Rainer Gabel once again presented<br />
wines in 2019 that are as balanced as<br />
they were powerful and at whose apogee are<br />
the Grosse Gewächse. The Riesling from the<br />
Ungsteiner Herrenberg is a particular success.<br />
The two Scheureben, made in very different<br />
styles, are just as exciting and must be tasted.<br />
And we also know that Pfeffingen also knows<br />
how to make sweet wines. The Riesling Auslese<br />
is rich and harmonious.<br />
93 2019 Ungstein Weilberg Riesling GG<br />
A hint of overripeness, notes of date, cumin, aniseed. Powerful<br />
on the palate, bold, full bodied with some sweetness and<br />
fine acidity. The minerality of Terra Rossa ensures the wine<br />
finishes elegantly and light-heartedly. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2019 »O« Scheurebe trocken<br />
92 2019 Ungstein Herrenberg Riesling GG<br />
Ripe yellow fruit, mirabelle and plum with herbal-spicy undertones<br />
and a hint of blossom honey. Quite full bodied on<br />
the palate, strong alcohol is somewhat warming. There’s a<br />
firm acidity, sweet fruit and rather discreet minerality.<br />
14 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2019 Ungstein Herrenberg<br />
Weissburgunder GG<br />
White and yellow flowers on the nose, apple, mirabelle<br />
plums and apricot, also notes of ripe citrus fruit. Good balance<br />
on the palate, clear fruit, good substance, clearly composed<br />
with phenolic appeal and ripe, well- integrated acidity.<br />
Classic style with a future. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2019 »SP« Scheurebe trocken<br />
Mid golden yellow. On the nose, a scent of lemon peel, tomato<br />
leaf and lime. On the palate there is power and a lively<br />
acidity which wonderfully balances the flavours of peach,<br />
passion fruit, redcurrants leaf and biscuit, complemented by<br />
a wonderful bitter note. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2019 Ungstein Herrenberg<br />
Riesling Auslese<br />
Lemon yellow. On the nose a medium intensity of ripe apple,<br />
lemon and nectarine. On the palate these aromas are<br />
extended by very intense flavours of yellow peach, ripe<br />
mango and lemon zest, balanced by lively acidity and with<br />
a long finish. 11 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
401
WEINGUT PFIRMANN<br />
Wollmesheimer Hauptstrasse 84<br />
76829 Landau-Wollmesheim<br />
T: +49 (6341) 32584, info@weingut-pfirmann.de<br />
www.weingut-pfirmann.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Jürgen Pfirmann<br />
Contact: Jürgen Pfirmann<br />
Hectares: 14 ha<br />
If a winemaker like Jürgen Pfirmann presents<br />
five different Weissburgunders at once, we<br />
can safely assume that he is an expert in this<br />
grape variety. Pfirmann farms fourteen hectares<br />
Wollmesheimer Mütterle und Ilbesheimer Kalmit<br />
– in tune with nature – of vines in sites like the<br />
Wollmesheimer Mütterle and Ilbesheimer Kalmit<br />
with various soil profiles, which offer the possibility<br />
of different Weissburgunder interpretations.<br />
The powerful “Reserve” is matured in 500-litre<br />
oak barrels and stands at the top of his convincing<br />
quality pyramid. Also, his Spätburgunder from<br />
the Kalmit site shows provenance and is characterised<br />
by chalky minerality. Compliments!<br />
91 2018 »Réserve« Weissburgunder trocken<br />
The aroma is marked by wood ageing, smoky aromas, with<br />
apple, yellow fruit and flowers, roasted hazelnuts. Powerfully<br />
built on the palate, great volume with medium extract.<br />
Well woven acidity, elegant, underpinned by mineral spice.<br />
Good depth and length. 14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
palate, which has a spicy underlay. Powerful structure and<br />
neat tannins. Combines substance with minerality and origin.<br />
Still young. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
89 2019 »Landschneckenkalk«<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
91 2019 Ilbesheim Kalmit<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
The nose is characterised by chalky mineral notes, apple,<br />
herbs and citrus fruit. Spice at first on the palate, broad in<br />
volume with medium extract, yellow-fruited hints, ripe supporting<br />
acid structure, chalky mineral creaminess. Lasts<br />
long on the palate. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 »Kalkmergel«<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Apricot with flowers and citrus fruit on the nose, floral and<br />
spicy hints. Powerfully built on the palate, smooth base<br />
notes, mild acid structure, fine chalky mineral spiciness, also<br />
texture and nut flavours. Good varietal character.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
91 2017 Ilbesheim Kalmit<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Beautifully fruity nose with sweet cherry, raspberry, violet<br />
and fine wood spice. Juicy with ripe, playful acidity on the<br />
90 2019 Wollmesheim Am Zollstock<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Ripe apple on the nose, mirabelle plum, citrus fruit, hazelnut<br />
and delicate blossom. The structure is rather broad,<br />
textured. Juiciness is accompanied by a ripe acidity; spicy,<br />
tart mineral undertones. Shows its origin and character.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
402 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT REIBOLD<br />
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
Wallstrasse 19, 67251 Freinsheim<br />
T: +49 (6353) 1821, post@weingut-reibold.de<br />
www.weingut-reibold.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 10–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–16 hrs and by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Philipp and Johannes Reibold<br />
Contact: Philipp Reibold<br />
Hectares: 15 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
Up until now, whenever there was talk of<br />
a pair of brothers making formidable<br />
wines in Freinsheim, it was clear that<br />
this talk was about Steffen and Andreas Rings.<br />
Philipp and Johannes Reibold, however, are<br />
slowly emerging as serious competitors. The<br />
brothers have run Weingut Reibold since 2012<br />
and their fifteen hectares of vines in sites like the<br />
Freinsheimer Musikantenbuckel, Grosskarlbacher<br />
Burgweg und Herxheimer Honigsack<br />
have been certified organic since 2014. We tasted<br />
a range of wines that had stature, a Riesling<br />
full of tension and a smooth Spätburgunder “Im<br />
grossen Garten” – a really strong performance!<br />
92 2019 »Im grossen Garten« Grosskarlbach<br />
Burgweg Riesling trocken<br />
Still somewhat closed on the nose; stone fruit, apple and citrus<br />
fruit, also yeast and notes of wet stone. Compact on the<br />
palate with good density and substance, tension, supporting<br />
acidity, fine phenolics and a long finish - full of character.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2017 »Im grossen Garten« Grosskarlbach<br />
Burgweg Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Spicy and powerful nose; a touch of lovage, smoke, coffee<br />
beans, liquorice and dark berry fruit, cassis and cherry. Compact<br />
power on the palate with good extract and finely polished<br />
tannins, spicy and smooth in its flow - ambitious.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
88 2019 Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
90 2018 Chardonnay trocken<br />
Aromas of white peach, hazelnut, butter and toasted aromas,<br />
also ripe mango. Powerful and firmly built on the palate<br />
with good substance and ripe, savoury acidity. The wood<br />
slowly integrates; mango and pineapple. A lot of Pfalz and a<br />
touch of California. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 Chardonnay & Weissburgunder tr.<br />
Fresh apple and pear on the nose, white flowers, mirabelle<br />
plums and tangerine. Clear and tidy on the palate there is a<br />
linear structure, ripe fruit notes, juicy and fine residual<br />
sweetness. Compact structure with balanced acidity and<br />
touch of spice. Very clean style. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2019 »vom Kalkstein« Riesling trocken<br />
Mirabelle plums, apple and citrus fruit and herbs on the<br />
nose. On the palate, a compact texture initially reveals<br />
juicy creaminess, ripe acidity and mineral spiciness, dry<br />
and purist; thoroughly multi-layered and multi-faceted.<br />
Sophisticated Riesling. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
403
WEINGUT REINHARDT<br />
Hintergasse 58, 67150 Niederkirchen<br />
T: +49 (6326) 8372, info@weingut-reinhardt.de<br />
www.weingut-reinhardt.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays and Wednesdays 9–12 hrs and<br />
14–18 hrs, Saturdays 9–12 hrs and 14–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Lukas Reinhardt<br />
Contact: Lukas Reinhardt<br />
Hectares: 17 ha<br />
Vintage by vintage, Lukas Reinhardt<br />
gains more stylistic confidence and authority<br />
– which could easily stand as a<br />
neat summary of the impressions we formed<br />
when tasting his wines. If these were a little<br />
over-ambitious in the past, the young winemaker<br />
by now shows a great combination of ambition<br />
and laissez-faire, knowing when to use<br />
what. Apart from his Rieslings from the 2018<br />
and 2019 vintages, all of which show real site<br />
character; we also like the firm, barrel-matured<br />
Weissburgunder. His 2016 Spätburgunder from<br />
the Ruppertsberger Nussbien site has evolved<br />
really well. Something clearly is happening here!<br />
92 2018 Deidesheim Herrgottsacker<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Deep yellow with a concentrated nose showing ripe peach,<br />
hints of exotic fruit, papaya and passion fruit. Powerful and<br />
tightly built with good concentration, generous in extract<br />
and volume, the ripe acidity underlines this character. Will<br />
evolve. 12 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
with a sensitive acidity in a compact, clear structure. Elegant<br />
fruit, raspberry and sour cherry, the tannins are polished.<br />
Shows substance and finesse. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2016 »Blanc et Noir« brut nature<br />
91 2018 Ruppertsberg Reiterpfad Riesling tr.<br />
Apple and citrus fruit on the nose, ripe stone fruit and spice,<br />
baked apple. Juicy and supple on the palate with subtle<br />
spice. Medium bodied, the volume is well filled out, it has<br />
enough tension to take the finish into elegance.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2018 Deidesheim Nonnenstück<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Lean, dry Pinot Blanc that shows refreshing restraint. On the<br />
nose, wood spice with white peach and blossom. On the palate<br />
the use of wood provides firm structure. Still young, a little<br />
bottle age is all that is needed for full integration.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2016 Ruppertsberg Nussbien<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Cherry and chocolate coated cherry in Kirsch on the nose -<br />
mocha, fine wood and herbs. Well balanced on the palate<br />
90 2019 Deidesheim Riesling trocken<br />
Apricot and hints of mint on the nose, also tangerine and<br />
nectarine - leafiness. On the palate there’s ripe fruit with a<br />
nice freshness that is light and compactly built; juicy and<br />
with a minerality that shows the terroir of the Mittelhaardt.<br />
12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
404 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT RINCK<br />
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
Klingbachstrasse 11, 76831 Heuchelheim-Klingen<br />
T: +49 (6349) 8542, info@weingut-richard-rinck.de<br />
www.weingut-richard-rinck.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–12 hrs and<br />
14–18 hrs, Saturdays 9–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Niko Leonhard and Annette Rinck<br />
Contact: Niko Leonhard and Annette Rinck<br />
Hectares: 13 ha<br />
In Heuchelheim-Klingen on the Südliche<br />
Weinstrasse, Niko Leonhard und Annette<br />
Rinck farm thirteen hectares of vines in<br />
sites like the Klingener Herrenpfad and<br />
Mörzheimer Pfaffenberg. Their focus is on<br />
Riesling, Silvaner and the Pinot varieties.<br />
“When making wine, we hold strongly on to<br />
tradition, including skin contact, maturation<br />
in large, used barrels and, depending on vintage,<br />
spontaneous fermentation.” the family<br />
reports. They presented a balanced and convincing<br />
range of wines which had a partially<br />
skin-fermented Silvaner as its top wine. A remarkable<br />
debut!<br />
90 2019 »RR« Silvaner trocken<br />
Red apple, pear, hop blossom and smoke, fresh bay leaf.<br />
Juicy on the palate with tart apple fruit, phenolic, dry, with a<br />
little wood tannin and spritz. Not a mainstream Silvaner, has<br />
character and edges. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2017 Klingen Herrenpfad<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
89 2018 Klingen Herrenpfad Riesling trocken<br />
Ripe yellow fruits (peach and plum) are joined by toasty aromas,<br />
smoke and spices. Compact and firmly built, the acidity<br />
is vivid and mobile, the fine fruit sweetness adds pleasure;<br />
juicy, again spicy notes. Will evolve further, still young.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 »L'Ambre« trocken TR/PG<br />
Gewürztraminer and Pinot Gris make up L'Ambre which<br />
shows the aromatics of a natural wine: dried apricot, wormwood,<br />
malt and rose petals. Slender on the palate with ripe,<br />
vivid acidity, phenolic and aromatic, medium extract. Will<br />
evolve. 12 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 Mörzheim Pfaffenberg<br />
Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
Wood spice on the nose, quince and ripe pear with some vanilla.<br />
On the palate there is a powerful structure and broad<br />
volume, medium extract, juicy and spicy, pear is the leading<br />
fruit. Mild and creamy acidity, slightly astringent tannins.<br />
Ideal. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 »Fumé« Scheurebe trocken<br />
Ripe gooseberry, apricot and redcurrants, smoky, spicy<br />
hints. Slenderly built on the palate with a straightforward<br />
and vivid acidity. Emphatically dry and somewhat purist, a<br />
fine phenolic layer, good grip. An unusual interpretation of<br />
Scheurebe. 12 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
405
WEINGUT RINGS<br />
Dürkheimer Hohl 21, 67251 Freinsheim<br />
T: +49 (6353) 2231, info@weingut-rings.de<br />
www.weingut-rings.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Saturdays 10–12 hrs and<br />
13–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Steffen and Andreas Rings<br />
Contact: Andreas Rings<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 190,000 (60 % white, 40 % red)/35 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
What the Rings brothers deliver is<br />
simply brilliant. The Riesling from<br />
the Kallstadter Saumagen shows<br />
why wines grown on limestone are so magnificent:<br />
a rare combination of volume and playfulness.<br />
Here this was captured with exactitude<br />
and taken to calm serenity in the barrel.<br />
Its counterpart from the terra rossa soils of the<br />
Ungsteiner Weilberg is no less successful: a soft<br />
minerality pervades the palate and lends tension<br />
in the most relaxed fashion. And then the<br />
reds: tannins like velvet from the Leistadter<br />
Felsenberg, breath-taking density and spice<br />
from the Saumagen. More please!<br />
94 2019 Kallstadt Saumagen Riesling GG<br />
Aromas of wood along with clear notes of spontaneous fermentation.<br />
Closed citrus fruit; lime, passion fruit. On the palate,<br />
dense but not broad, a high concentration of substance,<br />
acidity and minerality with a smooth backbone. A pithy wine<br />
with a great future! 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
Shows tension, density and elegance. Good ageing potential.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
93 2018 Kallstadt Steinacker Spätburgunder<br />
Erste Lage trocken unfiltriert<br />
94 2019 Ungstein Weilberg Riesling GG<br />
Still closed on the nose, slightly vegetal, slightly citrusy.<br />
Great volume on the palate, a homogeneous combination of<br />
minerality and fine substance, delicate acidity, supple base.<br />
Seems totally relaxed and complete, soft minerality.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
95 2018 Kallstadt Saumagen<br />
Spätburgunder GG unfiltriert<br />
Dark, dense nose that only opens slowly and shows herbs,<br />
smoke and mocha; also beetroot and sour cherry. Dense and<br />
tightly woven on the palate, very good balance of all elements,<br />
complete, stable and fine acidity. Quite delicate but<br />
with great potential. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
94 2018 Leistadt Felsenberg<br />
Spätburgunder GG unfiltriert<br />
Smoky and herbal on the powerful nose, cherry and toasted<br />
aromas, some blood orange. Opens with a juicy palate; there<br />
is vivid, well integrated acidity, lots of ripe and fine tannin.<br />
93 2019 Ungstein Nussriegel<br />
Riesling Erste Lage trocken<br />
A fine fragrance of lemon zest, lime and elderflower. On<br />
the palate there is pronounced acidity plus a complex aroma<br />
of lychee, peach, wet stone and lavender. Ideally balanced.<br />
An exciting wine with a significant finish.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
406 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT FAMILIE SAUER<br />
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
Hauptstrasse 44, 76833 Böchingen<br />
T: +49 (6341) 61175, info@weingut-sauer.de<br />
info@weingut-sauer.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Heiner Sauer and Felix Haertel<br />
Contact: Heiner Sauer<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 180,000 (70 % white, 30 % red)/32 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
There is much movement and dynamism<br />
at Weingut Sauer. Last summer the construction<br />
of a new winery building in<br />
Nussdorf was started and Valentin, son of<br />
Heiner Sauer, has by now joined the estate and<br />
will shape its future. Heiner Sauer has farmed<br />
his vineyards organically for 30 years, his<br />
vines thus are in great balance and can deal<br />
with the constantly changing conditions<br />
brought on by climate change. The wines are<br />
balanced – like the Weissburgunder “Holz und<br />
Ton” – density, tension and freshness. Outstanding<br />
range of wines!<br />
92 2018 »Holz und Ton« Weissburgunder tr.<br />
Exciting, multi-layered nose of herbs and spices such as tarragon,<br />
lemon balm, dried orange peel, white pepper and<br />
meadow flowers. On the palate, full-bodied, the wood is very<br />
well integrated with a delicate creaminess, not cloying, stimulating,<br />
fresh. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
palate; good freshness with juice and depth, fine straight<br />
structure, honest restraint, very long finish. Beautiful!<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2019 Gleisweiler Hölle Riesling trocken<br />
91 2019 »Fumé« Böchingen Rosenkranz<br />
Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Elegant, slight smoky nose of flint and graphite, also cassis<br />
and green gooseberries. On the palate a fine balance between<br />
juicy citrus acidity and fruit, clearly defined, refreshing<br />
with a lovely mild finish. Beautiful!<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 Böchingen Rosenkranz<br />
Grünfränkisch trocken<br />
Finely fragrant nose of tobacco and hay, candied lemon peel,<br />
honeydew melon, almonds, even a little cinnamon, but not at<br />
all Christmassy. Creamy and full bodied on the palate, yet<br />
with plenty of juice, spice, animating freshness and a long,<br />
pleasant finish. 14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
92 2017 Nussdorf Kaiserberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Garnet red colour, fragrant berry nose, light graphite and<br />
leather, along with undergrowth and dark chocolate. On the<br />
92 2019 »Löss« Nussdorf<br />
Grauburgunder trocken<br />
Delicate rose-golden colour in the glass. A fragrant nose of<br />
melon and pumpkin, mirabelle plums and foliage. The palate<br />
is finely textured with good acidity and restrained fruit,<br />
a minerality and positive weightiness can already be felt.<br />
Patience will be rewarded! 13,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
407
WEINGUT MICHAEL SCHROTH<br />
Im Auweg 42, 67269 Grünstadt-Asselheim<br />
T: +49 (6359) 8015251, michael@weingut-schroth.de<br />
www.weingut-schroth.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Saturdays 9–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Michael Schroth<br />
Contact: Michael Schroth<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 250,000 (60 % white, 40 % red)/20 ha<br />
Michael Schroth’s wine style, aiming<br />
for both ripeness and substance, has<br />
its basis in the vineyard: for the premium<br />
wines he reduces the yield of his vines,<br />
rooting in limestone soils, down to 20-30 hectolitres<br />
per hectare. The wines stay on their<br />
lees for an extended period and need time to<br />
unfold completely. The concentrated and limestone-spiced<br />
Riesling Goldberg from the 2017<br />
vintage slowly starts showing its profile. The<br />
“Reserve” Spätburgunder from 2017 still<br />
comes across as youthful. Clearly, patience<br />
will be rewarded here.<br />
91 2017 Asselheim Goldberg Riesling trocken<br />
Deep yellow. On the nose honeydew melon, caramelised<br />
nuts, pineapple and mango - a lush fruit bouquet. Powerful<br />
structure on the palate, concentrated, ripe acidity, spiciness.<br />
Combines opulence with mineral polish, rich in all aspects.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
palate with good substance and concentration, prominent<br />
tannins. Still a little astringent, has the potential to develop<br />
further. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2015 »Handgeformt« brut<br />
90 2018 Asselheim St. Stephan<br />
Grauburgunder trocken<br />
Deep colour. Concentrated on the nose, honeycomb, ripe<br />
pear and candied walnuts, smoky notes, spice. Soft and velvety<br />
on the palate with lots of texture as well as juice. Mild<br />
acidity, wraps its opulence in suppleness. Young, good potential.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
91 2017 »Reserve« Asselheim Goldberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken unfiltriert<br />
Rich bouquet with black cherry, blackcurrant, blackberry,<br />
toasted aromas, tobacco, cedar and undergrowth. Full bodied<br />
on the palate with lots of substance, ripe fruit and spice,<br />
strong and distinctive tannins of good quality. Still has something<br />
up its sleeve. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2017 Asselheim Goldberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken unfiltriert<br />
Concentrated nose of black cherry, blackberry and rosehip,<br />
vivid wood spice and smoked bacon. Powerful and vivid on the<br />
90 2018 Asselheim St. Stephan<br />
Chardonnay trocken<br />
Deep yellow. Pineapple, apricot and pear, caramelised almonds,<br />
spicy notes. On the palate, juicy and with texture,<br />
strong stature, ripe fruit and acidity, good extract and lots<br />
of substance, salty notes. With the licence to mature, destined<br />
for the table. 13,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
408 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT SCHWEDER<br />
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
Hauptstrasse 211, 76879 Hochstadt<br />
T: +49 (6347) 2008, info@weingut-schweder.de<br />
www.weingut-schweder.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Henrik Schweder<br />
Contact: Henrik Schweder<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 70,000 (70 % white, 30 % red)/18 ha<br />
The Schweder family have run their estate<br />
in Hochstadt on the Südlichen<br />
Weinstrasse ever since 1898. There is a<br />
particular focus on Pinot varieties, on their<br />
eighteen hectares of vines which root and<br />
thrive in the deep loam and loess soils. Henrik<br />
Schweder who has stints in the Mosel,<br />
Wachau, Burgundy and California under his<br />
belt, is now the fifth generation responsible for<br />
the estate. This experience clearly flows into<br />
this most convincing range of very well-made<br />
wines – amongst which the well-structured<br />
Spätburgunder was particularly impressive.<br />
89 2019 »Alter Schwede(r)« trocken<br />
Yellow apple on the nose, ripe mirabelle plums, citrus fruit,<br />
guava. Vivid acidity meets subtle residual sweetness on the<br />
palate, ripe yellow fruit - apricot and mango, also lemon<br />
juice. Spicy, compact and linear structure, good balance,<br />
spice and distinctive tartness. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
88 2019 Riesling feinherb<br />
89 2019 Goldmuskateller feinherb<br />
Cape gooseberry on the fruity nose, exotic fruit aromas such<br />
as papaya, passion fruit and ripe mango. Harmonious interplay<br />
of sweetness and lively acidity on the palate. Good balance<br />
and slender construction is generously rounded.<br />
Charming. 11,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
88 2019 »S« Weissburgunder trocken<br />
White blossom on the nose, ripe mirabelle plums, candied almonds<br />
and citrus fruit, also light smoke notes. Supple on the<br />
palate there is a little fruit sweetness, some spritz provides<br />
life, juicy and with texture. A Pinot for many occasions.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2016 »S« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Spice, smoke and pine resin on the nose, redcurrants, cherry<br />
and earthy notes, wet leaves. Strong structure with some<br />
pronounced fruitiness. Good substance, not lightweight; a<br />
grown-up Pinot with a lot of ripe tannins on a balsamic foundation<br />
- plentiful. 14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 Cabernet Blanc trocken<br />
Notes of citrus fruit on the nose, orange peel, apple and<br />
herbs. Juicy and with integrated acidity on the palate. Lean<br />
and tightly built with notes of citrus fruit, kumquat and<br />
grapefruit and fine astringency. Straightforward character<br />
with good momentum. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
409
WEINGUT SCHWEDHELM<br />
Klosterhof, 67308 Zellertal-Zell<br />
T: +49 (6355) 521, info@schwedhelm-zellertal.de<br />
www.schwedhelm-zellertal.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Stephan Schwedhelm<br />
Contact: Georg Schwedhelm<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 130,000 (80 % white, 20 % red)/18 ha<br />
Our home represents our biggest treasure,”<br />
Georg and Stephan Schwedhelm<br />
report. “The poor soils of limestone<br />
and clay along with the cool and dry climate<br />
with constant wind provide ideal conditions.”<br />
It really is no coincidence that the Zeller valley<br />
is booming right now. In addition to these natural<br />
conditions, there also is the youthful energy<br />
of these brothers: they make wines of cool<br />
savouriness and a minerality that comes with<br />
crystalline definition. We start off with a tentative<br />
and careful evaluation of this new addition<br />
to our guide. The third star, however, is already<br />
within reach.<br />
94 2019 Zell Schwarzer Herrgott<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Closed on the nose with more limestone than fruit. On the<br />
palate; very poised in style, chalky, vivid and homogeneous.<br />
Elegant acidity, tactile mineral freshness and volume enter<br />
into an intimate liaison. Long, generous, but above all, complete.<br />
Brilliant. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
93 2017 Zell Klosterstück<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Discreet wood note, wild cherry, mineral, redcurrants, citric<br />
notes, fragrant, très Pinot. Elegant construction, fine tannins,<br />
lots of juiciness with a smooth mouth-feel; the juicy,<br />
spicy core dominates the very long finish. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2018 Zellertal Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Wild aroma of mugwort, juniper, mint, and a hint of Pinot berries,<br />
but no specific defined fruit. Subtle new wood. Silky and<br />
vivid on the palate with sweet fruit. A full-bodied local wine<br />
with volume, but also with juiciness and finesse.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €<br />
93 2019 Zell Schwarzer Herrgott<br />
Riesling Beerenauslese<br />
Light golden yellow. Very fine botrytis on the nose; dates,<br />
candied lemon peel and peppery lime notes. Viscous and<br />
creamy but also with significant substance. Ripe, concentrated<br />
acidity, silky sweetness, delicate fruit finish with the<br />
aroma of Sicilian cassata. Bags of potential.<br />
9 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
92 2019 Zell Wotanfels Riesling trocken<br />
91 2019 Zell Kreuzberg Chardonnay trocken<br />
91 2019 Zell Kreuzberg Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 Zellertal Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 Zellertal Weissburgunder trocken<br />
90 2019 Zellertal Chardonnay trocken<br />
89 2019 Zell Karlspfad Riesling Kabinett<br />
93 2019 Zell Karlspfad Weissburgunder tr.<br />
Mineral, chalky notes on the nose; sesame, hay and just a<br />
hint of wood. Stringent but also fine acidity, homogeneous<br />
and long lasting. Good substance, compact structure, concentrated<br />
peppery terroir on the finish. All components are<br />
tightly woven. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
410 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT SECKINGER<br />
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
Hintergasse 26, 67150 Niederkirchen<br />
T: +49 (6326) 980217, info@weingut-seckinger.de<br />
www.weingut-seckinger.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Jonas Seckinger<br />
Contact: Philipp, Lukas and Jonas Seckinger<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 100,000 (80 % white, 20 % red)/20 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
Brothers Jonas, Lukas and Philipp Seckinger<br />
decided on a slower course and<br />
have thus presented their top Rieslings<br />
from the 2017 vintage again. “Since we want<br />
to let the 2019 single-site wines mature for a<br />
further year in barrel, we wanted to show you<br />
the 2017 wines again, since the vintages are<br />
quite similar,” the brothers report. We think<br />
that this was a clever decision: the 2017 Rieslings<br />
are on great form and what was presented<br />
from the 2019 vintage raises our expectations.<br />
We look forward to what will emerge<br />
next from this Niederkirchen estate.<br />
93 2017 »Wurzelecht« Deidesheim Kieselberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Fine spicy minerality, dark yellow fruit, firmly and elegantly<br />
woven. Supple with depth on the palate, juicy-citric acid<br />
structure, grippy minerality. Bright, ripe yellow fruit, lively<br />
and fresh, salty acidity. Focused, calm, has traction.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2017 Deidesheim Langenmorgen<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Round, rich nose with ripe yellow fruit and juicy stone fruit,<br />
dark caramel spice and a hint of petrol. Mouth-filling, mineral,<br />
fresh. Fine grip and dark spiciness. Tapers on the finish towards<br />
herbal, citrusy juiciness. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2017 Deidesheim In der oberen Petershöhle<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Complex nose. Rich, concentrated yellow fruit, stone dust,<br />
petrol and yellow spicy-caramel hints. Chalky minerality,<br />
juice, fine phenolic, herbaceous and nutty notes. Harmonious<br />
interplay of components: deep, complex, mineral and pure.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2019 »R Pure« Riesling Landwein trocken<br />
Ripe apple, matchstick, smoky-spicy, mature fruit and stony<br />
minerality. Delicate fully ripe fruit on the palate. Soft, digestible,<br />
yet pure and flowing. Wet stone, salty acidity, calm,<br />
great depth, fine grip, light. 12 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2017 Königsbach Ölberg Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 »DD Pure« Riesling Landwein trocken<br />
90 2019 »Buntsandstein« Weissburgunder tr.<br />
90 2019 »R Blanc Pure« Ruppertsberg<br />
Landwein trocken WB/TR<br />
89 2019 Deidesheim Mäushöhle<br />
Riesling Kabinett<br />
89 2019 Ruppertsberg Rosé Landwein trocken<br />
89 2018 »R Rouge Pure« Ruppertsberg<br />
Reiterpfad Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
90 2019 »vom Kalkstein Pure« tr. KR/CH<br />
Fine spicy, smoky with floral hints; apple skin, savoury<br />
meadow herbs, quince, pickled zest. Animated, weightless<br />
and yet dense on the palate with fine tannic grip, salty minerality,<br />
cool stone, apple and citrus zest. Pure, with the finest<br />
substance. 11 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
411
WEINGUT GEORG SIBEN ERBEN<br />
Weinstrasse 21, 67146 Deidesheim<br />
T: +49 (6326) 989363, info@weingut-siben.de<br />
www.weingut-siben.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Andreas Siben<br />
Contact: Andreas and Nadine Siben<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 80,000 (95 % white, 5 % red)/12 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
For years now, Nadine and Andreas Siben<br />
have crafted absolutely solid to<br />
very good organic wines in Deidesheim.<br />
They confirm this once again this year and<br />
prove that both white and red wines that hold<br />
both power and elegance can be made in Erste<br />
Lagen. These wines are a source of utter joy for<br />
price-savvy wine lovers. The Riesling from the<br />
Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad, presenting solid<br />
length with its fine herbal savour, grippy acidity,<br />
fresh citrus aromas and a very mineral<br />
vein, is an exemplary representation of the entire<br />
wine portfolio – which is huge fun.<br />
91 2019 Ruppertsberg Reiterpfad Riesling<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
Clear, rich yellow with greenish reflections. Fine herbal spiciness<br />
on the nose, lime zest, smoke, shattered rock, mineral -<br />
enlivening. On the palate; grippy acidity, citrus, fresh and<br />
gripping with a mineral vein. Nice structure, good length.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2019 Deidesheim Herrgottsacker Riesling<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
Rich, clear yellow. On the nose fresh citrus fruit, lemon balm<br />
and mint - fresh and lively, notes of papaya, delicate quince.<br />
The palate has a grippy acidity and pull, very fresh, lime, mineral<br />
spice. Good structure and length. Perfect.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 Deidesheim Leinhöhle Riesling<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
Clear, rich yellow. On the nose herbal spice, bay leaf, stone<br />
fruit, tangerine, shattered rock, warm hay. Balanced and<br />
juicy on the palate; bright fruits, apricot, mineral undertones,<br />
papaya. Medium body and length. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 Deidesheim Paradiesgarten Riesling<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
Rich, clear yellow. On the nose smoke, shattered rock, citrus<br />
fruits, some peach, stone fruit, herbal spice. Juicy on the palate,<br />
well integrated acidity, fine citric tension, mango. Medium<br />
body and length, spicy finish. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 »Vom Kalk« Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 Forst Riesling trocken<br />
88 2019 Deidesheim Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 »Vom Kiesel« Riesling trocken<br />
Clear, rich yellow. Multi-layered bouquet on the nose, citrus,<br />
papaya, lemon balm, mineral underlay, invigorating.<br />
Fresh impressions on the palate juicy; lime and herbs, fine<br />
phenolics, grippy, harmonious, medium body and length.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
412 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT ERICH STACHEL<br />
Bahnhofstrasse 40, 67487 Maikammer<br />
T: +49 (6321) 5112, info@weingut-stachel.de<br />
www.weingut-stachel.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–12 hrs and<br />
14.30–18 hrs, Saturdays 10–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Matthias Stachel<br />
Contact: Matthias, Karin and Erich Stachel, Nadine Kienle<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 80,000 (50 % white, 50 % red)/19 ha<br />
Erich Stachel and his son Matthias have<br />
presented a pronounced classic wine<br />
style: proper when it comes to density,<br />
clearly delineated fruit – for instance in the<br />
barrel-matured Weissburgunder from the Kirrweiler<br />
Römerweg site. The red wines show<br />
Matthias Stachel’s international experience.<br />
With a Malbec, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon,<br />
there are three exotic wines on offer<br />
which evidently feel quite at home in the Pfalz:<br />
the tannins are ripe, the aromas have varietal<br />
typicity – the only things these wines still lack<br />
is a little maturity, but, as we know, this will<br />
appear of its own accord.<br />
91 2017 Kirrweiler Römerweg<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Notes of wood, linden blossom and Brazil nut suggest signs<br />
of development on the nose, but a little more bottle age is<br />
needed for full development. On the palate; burly in structure,<br />
full-bodied and dense; smooth background, seamlessly<br />
integrated acidity - a gastronomic construction.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
grainy, ripe tannins, elegant length with good fruit accompaniment<br />
and a hint of chalky minerality. 14,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2017 Maikammer Kirchenstück<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon trocken<br />
90 2018 Chardonnay Sekt brut<br />
Flowers on the nose, notes of walnuts and ripe pear and also<br />
stone fruit. On the palate there is beautiful texture and a fine<br />
mousse. Shows ripe acidity, good substance, and is successfully<br />
balanced. Sweet fruit on the palate. Solid - a distinguished<br />
aperitif. 12 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2017 Maikammer Heiligenberg<br />
Syrah trocken<br />
Dark chocolate, sultana, yeasty with herbaceous undertones.<br />
Taut tannins on the palate, very dense, slightly astringent<br />
with good freshness and a juicy release of tension. Has<br />
potential. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2017 Maikammer Heiligenberg<br />
Malbec trocken<br />
Amarena cherry, spice seasoning, animal notes, dried meat.<br />
On the palate there is good structure, a juicy base, moderate<br />
90 2019 Kirrweiler Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Vegetal aromas; a little hay and meadow herbs. Juicy and<br />
elegant on the palate. Straightforward and without fuss,<br />
light to medium weight in extract, ripe in acidity. An elegant<br />
varietal style and unobtrusive food wine.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
413
WEINGUT STERN<br />
Hauptstrasse 199, 76879 Hochstadt<br />
T: +49 (6347) 700580, info@weingut-stern.de<br />
www.weingut-stern.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9.30–12 hrs and<br />
13.30–18 hrs, Saturdays 10–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Dominic Stern<br />
Contact: Dominic and Anne-Sophie Stern<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 100,000 (50 % white, 50 % red)/12 ha<br />
Less is more: that is the path we follow,”<br />
reports Dominic Stern who runs this<br />
winery in Hochstadt with its eleven<br />
hectares of vines. His “Pinot Noir Réserve”<br />
from the 2018 vintage bears this out. One of<br />
our tasters described it as a “charming powerhouse”.<br />
The two Rieslings from Mittelhaardt<br />
sites also turned out brilliantly well – the one<br />
from the Forster Ungeheuer scores with striking<br />
minerality. The sparkling Pinot, “Pino-<br />
Times”, made in collaboration with Aloisiushof<br />
in St. Martin, is also full of character.<br />
Dominic Stern has only just got started.<br />
92 2019 Forst Ungeheuer Riesling trocken<br />
Multi-layered and densely intricate fragrance with peach and<br />
apricot, also citrus fruit, stony-mineral hints. Well judged<br />
texture on the palate, delicate fruit and juiciness is offset by<br />
the striking minerality of the Ungeheuer. Young and talented.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
89 2019 »Rosé Fumé« Syrah trocken<br />
91 2019 Deidesheim Kieselberg Riesling tr.<br />
Subtle peach on the nose, leafy green, mineral streaks, spicy<br />
notes. Juicy on the palate with clear and beautiful fruit expression<br />
over a mineral foundation. Sweet extract, spicy,<br />
slenderly built, unfolds elegantly. Full of character.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
91 2018 »Pinot Noir Réserve« trocken<br />
Powerful aroma with smoky notes and ink, roasted coffee<br />
beans, black cherry, juniper berry and incense. Shows the<br />
power and substance of the warm year, lots of spice and<br />
warmth, prominent and ripe tannins, ripe acidity that blends<br />
in well, charming. A powerhouse. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2019 Forst Ungeheuer Riesling Spätlese<br />
Peach and apricot on the nose, some leafiness, honey waffles.<br />
On the palate there is good concentration and lively<br />
acidity. Unfolds nicely with fruity notes, not too lush, dynamic,<br />
with good balance and mineral undertones. Elegant.<br />
7 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
91 2013 »PinoTimes Rosé« brut<br />
Copper-coloured. Powerful nose, rosehip, woodruff, hops,<br />
malt, caramel and smoke. On the palate there is silkiness<br />
in this powerful texture, fine acidity and fine mousse, solid<br />
and spicy. Strong character, a dream for sommeliers.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
414 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT PETER STÜBINGER<br />
Hauptstrasse 12, 76829 Leinsweiler<br />
T: +49 (6345) 1572, info@weingut-stuebinger.de<br />
weingut-stuebinger.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Peter Stübinger<br />
Contact: Peter Stübinger<br />
Hectares: 18 ha<br />
Peter Stübinger, along with his son Daniel<br />
in Leinsweiler, have presented a diverse<br />
range of wines – amongst which<br />
holds, without necessitating too much rummaging,<br />
a number of bargains. One of these is<br />
the fruity and striking Merlot at just EUR<br />
6.50! The sparkling wines, like the “Muskateller<br />
Sekt” know how to convince, the white<br />
wines are well-structured and are designed for<br />
the table. Our favourite, however, was the red<br />
blend “Cuvée S” from Cabernet Sauvignon,<br />
Syrah and Merlot with its dark-berried savouriness,<br />
power and freshness. We see even more<br />
potential!<br />
90 2019 Leinsweiler Sonnenberg<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Spicy and floral hints on the nose; ripe apricot, yellow apple,<br />
nutty aromas, roasted almonds, a hint of smoke and dried<br />
ginger. Full bodied on the palate with juicy creaminess,<br />
strong, firm structure, apple and spices on the finish. Dry<br />
style, ideal. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €<br />
90 2018 Muskateller Sekt trocken<br />
Very perfumed on the nose; lemon, lavender and nutmeg. On<br />
the palate there is a dynamic but fine mousse, juicy acidity,<br />
yeasty flavours and a not over-accentuated sweetness. Lean<br />
and fine in body, powerful in expression. A nice aperitif.<br />
11 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2013 Pinot Blanc extra brut<br />
Round and balanced on the nose. Yellow fruit and lemon<br />
zest. This sparkling wine has had seven years of lees ageing<br />
and appears compact on the palate, but also nuanced.<br />
Creamy with a nice spicy note and a finely integrated acid<br />
structure that lends freshness and presence.<br />
12 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2018 »Cuvée S« trocken CS/SY/ME<br />
Blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot. Dark berry<br />
and spicy nose, tobacco, cassis, elderberry and peppery<br />
notes, woody perfume. Substantial blend with powerful muscle<br />
but also appropriate freshness; vivid acid vein, grippy and<br />
ripe tannins. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
88 2019 Leinsweiler Chardonnay trocken<br />
88 2019 Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
88 2019 »Kalkstein« Riesling trocken<br />
88 2019 »vom Löss« Scheurebe trocken<br />
88 2019 Gelber Muskateller feinherb<br />
87 2019 »Blanc de Noir«<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
87 2019 »Summer Kiss« Rosé halbtrocken<br />
89 2018 Merlot trocken<br />
Ripe, fruity nose showing redcurrants, elderberry and cherry.<br />
They’re also clearly pronounced on the palate where<br />
power, spice and juice meet; the tannins are prominent and<br />
still somewhat astringent. Good substance and resonance,<br />
enjoy with game. 13,5 Vol.-%, cork, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
415
VIERMORGEN<br />
WEINKOOPERATIVE<br />
Hauptstrasse 36a, 76889 Niederhorbach<br />
T: +49 (173) 9939406, info@viermorgen-wein.de<br />
www.viermorgen-wein.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Dr. Boris Peter<br />
Contact: Axel Becht and Dr. Boris Peter<br />
Hectares: 1 ha<br />
Four “Morgen” – that is the size of the<br />
vineyard farmed by Axel Becht and Dr<br />
Boris Peter. They can circle the vineyard<br />
in “four minutes” time - as these two self-confessed<br />
“mavericks and contrarians” have<br />
measured. The size, they report, “was small<br />
enough for us to know every single grape,<br />
since quality starts in the vineyard,” having set<br />
up their “Viermorgen Weinkooperative” in<br />
Niederhorbach in 2012. Their wines deserve<br />
respect, especially the barrel-matured “Chardonnay<br />
500” with a Burgundian touch and<br />
the spicy red blend “Cuvée No.1”. Compliments!<br />
90 2019 »Chardonnay 500« Niederhorbach<br />
Silberberg trocken<br />
Golden yellow colour, powerful nose with new wood, ripe<br />
pear, apple and toasted aromas, yellow flowers, buttercup.<br />
Powerful structure. On the palate there is good volume and<br />
well-integrated acidity, juicy and with texture. Pfalz dialect<br />
meets Burgundian touch. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
the palate, smooth and full-bodied. Well built and solidly integrated<br />
wood, spicy, charming. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
88 2019 Shiraz & Cabernet Franc Rosé<br />
89 2019 Gleiszellen-Gleishorbach Kirchberg<br />
Sauvignon Blanc<br />
Blade of mace and nutmeg on the nose, lots of spice and ripe<br />
fruit, ripe gooseberry and redcurrants. The confident and radiant<br />
acidity on the palate makes the wine seem drier than it<br />
is, the fruit sweetness provides charm. Balanced.<br />
12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
88 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
Flowers and yellow apple on the nose, meadow herbs and apple<br />
skin. This Riesling is what a wine sold by the litre bottle<br />
should be, especially in the Pfalz: gluggable, juicy and lively<br />
with clear fruit and a good standard. If only all litre bottles<br />
were like this. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2015 »Cuvée No. 1« Gleiszellen-<br />
Gleishorbach Kirchberg trocken SY/CF<br />
Blend of Cabernet Franc and Syrah smelling of ripe black<br />
cherry and blackberry. Ripe acidity and ripe tannins show on<br />
89 2019 Klingenmünster Maria Magdalena<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Mirabelle plum, ripe apple, citrus fruit and floral notes on<br />
the nose. Creamy on the palate with some fruit sweetness<br />
and ripe acid structure. Balanced, juicy fruit, spice and also<br />
fine tart notes set accents and lend character.<br />
13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
416 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT<br />
VILLA HOCHDÖRFFER<br />
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
Lindenbergstrasse 79, 76829 Landau in der Pfalz<br />
T: +49 (6341) 649630, info@weingut-villa.de<br />
www.weingut-villa.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–12 hrs and<br />
14–18.30 hrs, Saturdays 9–12 hrs<br />
Winemaker: David Hochdörffer<br />
Contact: Lieselotte Hahn-Hochdörffer<br />
Hectares: 45 ha<br />
Tradition and progress are the twin pillars<br />
on which our family estate stands,”<br />
the Hochdörffer family reports, being<br />
the seventh generation to make wine. They<br />
farm around 45 hectares of vines, many of<br />
which have been in the family’s possession for<br />
generations. “This has shaped us and created<br />
this strong bond for the region and its wines,”<br />
they emphasize. David Hochdörffer has been<br />
responsible for winemaking since 2012. We<br />
tasted an engaging and multi-faceted range of<br />
wines which makes us look forward to what is<br />
yet to come.<br />
90 2018 Birkweiler Kastanienbusch<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Intense smoky nose of flint and saffron, lightly roasted grain<br />
waft from the glass. On the palate; finely balanced acidity is<br />
paired with a delicate creamy sweetness, there’s a fresh reverberation<br />
of citrus and green apple notes. A nice food wine.<br />
14,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
91 2017 Nussdorf Kaiserberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Milky coffee and cappuccino on the nose as well as concentrated<br />
black cherry. Juicy onset for a brief moment on the<br />
palate, then powerfully grainy, dense, taut tannins, vivid acidic<br />
nerve, rather defensive fruit, but proper stuffing for a long<br />
life. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
88 2019 »Kalkstein« Riesling trocken<br />
89 2018 »Muschelkalk« Chardonnay trocken<br />
Intense golden yellow colour. Fragrant herbal nose including<br />
asparagus and ground elder. On the palate there is substance<br />
and a strong structure; creamy with a little bit of perceived<br />
sweetness, well integrated, juicy with a modest but<br />
refreshing finish. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
Very beautiful delicate copper-gold colour. Restrained on the<br />
nose, some yellow fruit, pear and citrus, then a delicate tarragon<br />
herbal note. On the palate, refreshingly juicy, slenderly<br />
built, the elegant sweetness is well integrated.<br />
12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 »Löss« Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Clear in the glass with beautiful light green reflections.<br />
Clear scent of hay, white flowers, green almond kernels<br />
and mirabelle plums. At first slender on the palate with<br />
good acidity and notes of apples followed by a powerful finish.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
417
WEINGUT WAGECK<br />
Luitpoldstrasse 1, 67281 Bissersheim<br />
T: +49 (6359) 2216, info@wageck-weine.de<br />
www.wageck-weine.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Thomas and Frank Pfaffmann<br />
Contact: Thomas Pfaffmann<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 350,000 (50 % white, 50 % red)/39 ha<br />
Thomas Pfaffmann sent us a series of<br />
reds from the 2017 vintage that left us<br />
nonplussed, impressed and enthused.<br />
This was already evident in the exquisite entry-level<br />
Spätburgunders and lasted all the<br />
way to the single-site Pinots from Goldberg,<br />
Burgweg and Geisberg. The profound Portugieser<br />
from a parcel planted in 1931, is unique<br />
and individual and an advertisement for this<br />
forgotten variety. We already knew, of course,<br />
that Pfaffmann also has a talent for white<br />
wines (and Sekt) – this year we crowned the<br />
sprightly estate Riesling as our favourite.<br />
94 2017 Bissersheim Geisberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Dark berries, blueberry, ethereal overtones. Complex. The<br />
commanding palate exhibits extensive fine tannins, densely<br />
staggered extract layers and ripe acidity, but for all its intensity<br />
it is also sophisticated and fine. Begins to unfold in the<br />
glass, great ageing potential. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
93 2017 »HW31 Réserve« Portugieser trocken<br />
Discreet wood, some wild plum, menthol, sour cherry, camphor.<br />
Creamy on the nose, a strong dose of grainy tannin, intense<br />
chalky minerality, taut tannin structure, noticeable<br />
warmth, but also texture and fruit. Very individual and certainly<br />
long-lasting. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2017 Grosskarlbach Burgweg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Elderberry, resin, leafy green. The palate opens softly with<br />
slowly increasing, very fine-grained tannins. Mild acidity,<br />
creamy background, ripe fruit. An opulent Pinot style, but<br />
one with a lot of depth. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2017 Bissersheim Goldberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Herbal spice, sage, fresh cherry, pepper and caramel. On the<br />
palate there is drive, fine-grained tannin, ripe acidity and a<br />
supple, smooth finish. A full-bodied yet well constructed Pinot.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2019 »Tertiär« Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
90 2019 »Tertiär«<br />
Chardonnay & Weissburgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 »Tertiär« Grauburgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 »Fundament« Rosé trocken<br />
92 2017 »Réserve« St. Laurent trocken<br />
90 2017 »Tertiär« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
90 2017 »Kalkmergel« Bissersheim<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 »Fundament« Riesling trocken<br />
Lemon balm and rosemary, floral, fragrant, very clear. On<br />
the palate juicy, light to medium weight in extract and<br />
body, lively acidity, pleasantly dry and yet not rough or<br />
hard. A stylish Riesling for everyday life.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
418 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT FELIX WALDKIRCH<br />
Weinstrasse 53, 76835 Rhodt unter Rietburg<br />
T: +49 (6323) 5825, info@weingut-waldkirch.de<br />
www.weingut-waldkirch.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Felix Waldkirch<br />
Contact: Felix Waldkirch<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 50,000 (80 % white, 20 % red)/9 ha<br />
For Felix Waldkirch, 2019 was a vintage<br />
in which he could harvest classical Rieslings<br />
– for him that means ripe grapes<br />
with moderate alcohol levels. This, so he reported,<br />
was why 2019 was a vintage of “drinking<br />
pleasure”. And he is right! His dry estate<br />
Riesling “Felix” is balanced and savoury, the<br />
estate Kabinett “Wanderlust” shows dense<br />
structure and beautiful length – it will benefit<br />
from a further year of bottle age. We especially<br />
liked the dry Muskateller with its low alcohol<br />
and crunchy fruit bouquet – an ideal aperitif.<br />
90 2019 Weyher Michelsberg Riesling trocken<br />
Clear, medium yellow. On the nose spicy citrus fruit, orange<br />
blossom, fine bergamot oil, lemon balm, mint - invigorating.<br />
On the palate juicy, balanced, ripe acidity, fine citrus fruit, nicely<br />
woven structure, good length - fun. 12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
88 2019 Dornfelder Rosé trocken<br />
89 2019 »Wanderlust« Rhodt Schlossberg<br />
Riesling Kabinett<br />
Clear, medium yellow. On the nose ripe citrus fruits, lime<br />
zest, orange blossom, papaya, mint. Fine acidity on the palate,<br />
good balance with the fruit sweetness - pineapple and<br />
orange juice. A little phenolic but balanced overall with medium<br />
body and nice length. 10,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 »Felix'« Riesling trocken<br />
Clear, mid yellow. On the nose fresh citrus fruit, lime, pithy<br />
underlay, herbal spice, lemon balm. Fine acidity on the palate,<br />
rounded and harmonious, citrus fruit, feathered phenolics,<br />
fine spiciness, medium body and length, balanced.<br />
12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 Scheurebe Spätlese<br />
Clear, medium yellow. On the nose spicy ripe fruit, redcurrants,<br />
lime, exotic fruits, mango, papaya. Textured sweetness<br />
on the palate - pineapple juice and cooked orange, rather<br />
mild acidity. Dense with power and structure, good length.<br />
9,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 Gelber Muskateller trocken<br />
Clear, medium yellow. On the nose freshly squeezed grape<br />
juice, a little nutmeg and elderberry. Fresh acidity on the<br />
palate, very lively, juicy grape fruit, some citrus, elegantly<br />
structured and harmoniously rounded. Medium body - ideal<br />
aperitif. 11,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
419
WEINGUT KARL WEGNER<br />
Am Neuberg 4, 67098 Bad Dürkheim<br />
T: +49 (6322) 989327, info@weingut-wegner.de<br />
www.weingut-wegner.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Joachim Wegner<br />
Contact: Joachim Wegner<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 100,000 (60 % white, 40 % red)/12 ha<br />
Whenever you taste wines made by<br />
Joachim Wegner, a surprise is always<br />
in store. This winemaker always<br />
has a few mature vintages in reserve, like<br />
the powerful but elegant Pinot Noirs from the<br />
Schenkenböhl site from 2013 and 2014, or the<br />
fruity and complex Syrah from the 2015 vintage.<br />
Wegner manages – with maturation in<br />
wood – to imbue his wines with long life and<br />
ageing potential. However, Wegner also cuts a<br />
great figure in the 2019 vintage with a successful,<br />
layered range of wines.<br />
91 2018 »14« Ungstein Herrenberg Riesling tr.<br />
Golden yellow in the glass. Notes of fermentation, herbs,<br />
wild honey, sage, malt and toasted aromas on the nose. Unconventional<br />
on the palate, powerful stature with a ripe,<br />
straightforward acidity. Dry, wood tannins and phenolics add<br />
to the complexity. Good potential. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2018 »Fumé Blanc« Bad Dürkheim<br />
Feuerberg Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Deep yellow in the glass. Lots of spice on the full nose, also wood<br />
aromas, smoke, ripe apricot and a touch of lychee. On the palate<br />
there is a lot of spice, lean construction, tightly filled but with good<br />
extract - avoids opulence, shows concentration. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2014 »Kleinod« Bad Dürkheim<br />
Schenkenböhl Pinot Noir trocken<br />
Brick red reflections. Cassis, ripe cherries and spice on the<br />
nose, wood notes. On the palate, a ripe and playful acidity that<br />
conveys elegance. Powerful construction, the tannins are ripe<br />
and fine-grained, vivid, good length. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2018 »Aureus« Bad Dürkheim Feuerberg<br />
Cabernet Blanc Eiswein<br />
Cooked green peppers, green gooseberry, quite prominent on<br />
the nose. On the palate there is tangy acidity, medium-high<br />
extract, reasonably vivid alcohol and finely integrated wood<br />
spice. An unusual Eiswein but very successful especially in<br />
palate structure. 10,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2018 »Lunatic« Ungstein Herrenberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 Bad Dürkheim Schenkenböhl<br />
Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
91 2015 »Sinnreich« Bad Dürkheim Feuerberg<br />
Syrah trocken<br />
91 2014 »Cuvée Philipp« Bad Dürkheim<br />
Feuerberg trocken CS/ME/SY<br />
90 2013 »Kleinod R« Bad Dürkheim<br />
Schenkenböhl Pinot Noir trocken<br />
90 2016 Bad Dürkheim Nonnengarten<br />
Pinot Noir trocken<br />
90 2016 »Wunderrot« Bad Dürkheim<br />
Nonnengarten trocken CS/SY/ME<br />
89 2019 Bad Dürkheim Rittergarten<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Juicy and finely rounded Riesling with aromas of ripe stone<br />
fruit, vine peach. Ripe and spicy acidity, well integrated<br />
fruit sweetness, slender and compact construction.<br />
Charming fruitiness, ripe apricot, fine mineral appeal.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
420 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINBIET MANUFAKTUR<br />
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
An der Eselshaut 57, 67435 Neustadt an der Weinstrasse<br />
T: +49 (6321) 67970, info@weinbiet.de<br />
www.weinbiet.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–18.30 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 9–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Patrick Öttl<br />
Contact: Bastian Klohr<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 2,300,000 (67 % white, 33 % red)/325 ha<br />
Under the management of Bastian Klohr,<br />
the Weinbiet Manufaktur has evolved<br />
into one of the most extraordinary<br />
cooperative business models. More than 50<br />
members farm 325 hectares of vines together.<br />
“We proudly carry the name of the 554m/1818ft<br />
high mountain that majestically sits above us,<br />
lending its protection,” the cooperative reports<br />
which has a cellar master in Patrick Öttl who<br />
knows how to lend a contemporary interpretation<br />
to Pfalz wine culture. The Philipp-Bassler-<br />
Series represents the top wines, like the mineral<br />
Riesling from 70-year-old, ungrafted vines.<br />
There is much dynamism here!<br />
90 2018 »Philipp Bassler Wurzelecht«<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
The multi-layered nose already indicates that this wine will<br />
occupy the palate: citrus fruit, grapefruit and passion fruit on<br />
the nose, also ripe peach. The palate is juicy with a nice spiciness,<br />
the acidity is balanced and delicate, the minerality has<br />
depth. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
on the palate, a pithy and strong Pfalz wine with distinctive<br />
tannin and lots of spice and pepper. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
88 2018 Haardt Herrenletten Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 »Philipp Bassler Fumé«<br />
Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Pale gold in colour, the lush nose reveals blackcurrant and<br />
papaya as well as smoky oak spice. Generous on the palate<br />
with ripe fruit and lots of spice, juice and texture, mineral undertones,<br />
multi-layered. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
88 2019 »Von Ersten Lagen«<br />
Chardonnay & Weissburgunder trocken<br />
White flowers on the fragrant nose, mirabelle and apricot,<br />
apple and also pear, a hint of elderflower. Juicy and creamy<br />
on the palate, this soft impression is complemented by a noticeable<br />
spiciness and fine fruit sweetness. Medium body,<br />
clear structure, balanced acidity. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2016 »Philipp Bassler Réserve«<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon trocken<br />
Finely matured bouquet with cassis, black cherry, black olives,<br />
rosemary, black pepper and a little menthol. Powerful<br />
89 2018 Haardt Schlossberg Riesling trocken<br />
Fresh nose accentuated by citrus notes, grapefruit and apple,<br />
also stone fruit. Juicy and soft on the palate, the vivid<br />
acidity provides freshness and movement. Slenderly built,<br />
avoids the opulent, citrus fruits enhance the fresh impression,<br />
fine spiciness. 12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
421
WEIN- UND SEKTGUT<br />
WILHELMSHOF<br />
Queichstrasse 1, 76833 Siebeldingen<br />
T: +49 (6345) 919147, info@wilhelmshof.de<br />
www.wilhelmshof.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–12 hrs and<br />
13–18 hrs, Saturdays 9–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Thorsten Ochocki<br />
Contact: The Roth-Ochocki family<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 150,000 (70 % white, 30 % red)/18 ha<br />
The entire country is swept up in a<br />
Sekt-boom and a whole new generation<br />
of winemakers manages to spirit sparkle<br />
and fine bubbles into champagne flutes. One<br />
thing, however, is easily overlooked: The Roth<br />
family has been making premium Sekt (sparkling<br />
wines) since the 1970s and has helped lay<br />
the foundations of today’s Sekt trajectory. Their<br />
expertise clearly shows itself in a most delicious<br />
fashion in their magnificent “Pinot B privé” –<br />
uniting freshness with sensuality. This Sekt is a<br />
highlight in the absolutely convincing wine<br />
range made by the Wilhelmshof – not following<br />
trends but building on artisanal skill.<br />
93 2016 »Pinot B privé« brut<br />
Finely chiselled Pinot fruit, white and redcurrants, citric<br />
notes, yeast, passion fruit. On the palate there is a lot of traction<br />
and tension, fine mousse, discreet sweetness with a racy<br />
and yet elegant core, but also fruity volume.<br />
12 Vol.-%. agglomerated cork, €€€<br />
prominent, juice, spice and elegance. Needs time.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2019 Siebeldingen Im Sonnenschein<br />
Grauburgunder Spätlese trocken<br />
91 2019 Siebeldingen Im Sonnenschein<br />
Weissburgunder Spätlese trocken<br />
Berry and fragrant nose that announces its Spätlese character<br />
with apricot, honey and caramelised nuts, aniseed biscuits.<br />
Juicy and soft on the palate the sweet extract also<br />
shows the structure of a Spätlese. Fine spice and texture, elegant<br />
and consistent. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
91 2017 Riesling brut<br />
Herbal notes and grated lemon zest. Very sophisticated acidity,<br />
delicate palate flow, delicate sweetness, slightly tactile<br />
mineral underlay. A quite subtle Riesling sekt, approachable<br />
in a very stylish way. Elegance combined with expressiveness.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. agglomerated cork, €€<br />
91 2018 Siebeldingen Im Sonnenschein<br />
Spätburgunder Spätlese trocken<br />
The nose still shows clear notes of barrique ageing, juniper<br />
berries, clove and fruit, cherry and redcurrants. Good balance<br />
on the palate, the wood tannins are still somewhat<br />
89 2019 »Buntsandstein« Frankweiler<br />
Riesling Kabinett trocken<br />
Apple and apricot in the delicate and unobtrusive fragrance,<br />
tangerine and lime peel. Juicy and creamy on the<br />
palate there is clear and pure fruit and good freshness, the<br />
acidity is lively and supple. Emphatically lean construction,<br />
spicy and finely mineral - has natural ease.<br />
11,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
422 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT KATRIN WIND<br />
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
Nauweg 6, 76829 Arzheim<br />
T: +49 (6341) 33339, info@weingut-wind.eu<br />
www.weingut-wind.eu<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Katrin Wind<br />
Contact: Katrin Wind<br />
Hectares: 5 ha<br />
We simply cannot remember ever having<br />
awarded a 94-point-score to a<br />
Frühburgunder (aka Pinot Noir Précoce)<br />
from the Pfalz. The one presented by Katrin<br />
Wind from the 2018 vintage, with its brilliant<br />
fruit and finely polished tannins, deserves the accolade.<br />
We are also mightily impressed by the<br />
tension-laden Riesling from the Kalmit site, vinified<br />
in the style of natural wine. This winemaker<br />
is increasingly courageous and uncompromising<br />
– but utterly sensitive at the same time. And her<br />
magnificent range of wines moves between these<br />
two poles. We also have to draw your attention<br />
to the honest and precise “NackteRiesling”.<br />
94 2019 Arzheim Kalmit Kapellenstück<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Apple and a touch of cider, fresh bay leaf, a hint of smoke. The<br />
athletic body shows bright lemon juiciness, is dense and rich<br />
in extract, fresh and tension-filled. There are phenolic layers<br />
and a mineral foundation. Bold in the style of a skilfully interpreted<br />
natural wine. 12 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
cherry, superb acidity, the tannins are finely extracted and<br />
vivid. Elegant, excellent. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
89 2019 Weissburgunder trocken<br />
91 2019 »vom Landschneckenkalk«<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Densely intricate nose with notes of apple, mirabelle plum<br />
and citrus fruit, also darker notes, toasted aromas and juniper<br />
berry. On the palate there is good tension and density, the<br />
acidity is ripe and well integrated, citrus notes again. Good<br />
balance, pronounced minerality. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 »Fumé« Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
No overt Sauvignon nose, delicate yellow fruit, yellow gooseberry,<br />
a touch of mango and wood spice, also nutmeg. On the<br />
palate there is sensitively woven wood, lean and compact<br />
stature, spiciness and balanced acid structure. Well balanced<br />
- understands Pfalz dialect. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
94 2018 Frühburgunder trocken<br />
Blueberries and cherries on the nose, fine herbs and wood<br />
spice. On the palate juicy and with good extract and good<br />
concentration. Bundled, very precise brilliant fruit, sour<br />
91 2019 »NackteRiesling« trocken<br />
Herbal nose with apple, stone fruit and apple peel, a little<br />
sesame. Lean and tightly built, it only goes in one direction:<br />
forward. Precise acid vein, fine citrus fruit, mineral, unadulterated,<br />
without levelling sweetness. Bare and beautiful.<br />
11,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
423
WEINGUT VON WINNING<br />
Weinstrasse 10, 67146 Deidesheim<br />
T: +49 (6326) 966870, weingut@von-winning.de<br />
www.von-winning.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–18 hrs, Sundays 11–18 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Kurt Rathgeber<br />
Contact: Stephan Attmann<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 500,000 (97 % white, 3 % red)/64 ha<br />
Following on from the brilliant 2017<br />
wines, Stephan Attmann and his team<br />
trump this with excellent 2018 wines –<br />
which of course are a little more full in style<br />
than its taut predecessors – yet they show as<br />
much balance and inner conviction. We are<br />
happy to place bets on the fact that the dense<br />
and deeply mineral 2018 Kirchenstück will<br />
still sing in 20 years’ time. However, the von-<br />
Winning-style can also be had in a more accessible<br />
price category. The wines from the “Win-<br />
Win” series or the equally well-priced Erste<br />
Lage Paradiesgarten are full of expression and<br />
elegance.<br />
98 2018 Forst Kirchenstück Riesling GG<br />
Some wood, also spicy, cumin, chilli and mineral undertones.<br />
On the palate; broad, supple, but also sturdy. Ripe acidity, the<br />
high intensity level lasts for a long time, everything is densely<br />
interwoven. Very, very mineral. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
96 2018 »Marmar« Riesling<br />
Restrained wood influence, concentrated citrus aromas, also<br />
herbs and volcanic rock. A supple start to the palate, an increasingly<br />
fine texture, a tactile minerality which spreads<br />
evenly and gently across the palate. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
95 2018 Forst Ungeheuer Riesling GG<br />
A little wood, citrus fruit, tangerine, warm brick. Powerful on<br />
the palate, smooth extract, subtle sweetness balances the<br />
ripe acidity. Very fine but clearly present phenolics, textured,<br />
full bodied with an intense fruit-driven finish.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2018 »500« Weisser Burgunder trocken<br />
Closed on the nose. Notes of wood, hay, sultana and linden<br />
blossom. Supple, viscous opening, pronounced fruitiness, immediately<br />
vivid, powerful tactile mineral background. Lots of<br />
juice behind the dense structure. Indicative of the warm vintage<br />
showing concentration but not alcohol.<br />
14 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2017 »I« Weisser Burgunder trocken<br />
92 2019 Ruppertsberg Reiterpfad<br />
Riesling Erste Lage trocken<br />
92 2018 Deidesheimer Grainhübel<br />
Riesling GG trocken<br />
90 2019 »II« Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
89 2019 »Win Win« Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 »Win Win Rosé« trocken<br />
91 2017 »Royale« Pinot Noir trocken<br />
90 2019 Deidesheim Paradiesgarten<br />
Riesling Erste Lage trocken<br />
Citrus notes on the nose, candied lemon peel, grapefruit, a<br />
touch of nutmeg and lemon balm. Supple attack, a little<br />
spritz, medium weight extract. Quite linear in structure<br />
with ripe acidity and discreet sweetness underlining the<br />
fruit. 11,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
424 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT JOSEF WÖRNER<br />
Staatsstrasse 24, 67483 Edesheim<br />
T: +49 (6323) 3685, hallo@josefwoerner.de<br />
www.josefwoerner.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Sebastian and Stefan Wörner<br />
Contact: Sebastian and Stefan Wörner<br />
Sebastian and Stefan Wörner who took<br />
over the reins at their parental estate in<br />
Edesheim in 2018, have only just made<br />
their second vintage. “We have made it our<br />
lives’ task to create wines that fit all occasions,<br />
at any time of day, at any moment,” the brothers<br />
say. They say they want their wines to be<br />
uncomplicated and fresh, in no way overwrought<br />
or heavy with meaning. They are indeed<br />
true to their aims – we were presented<br />
with very clean, well-made wines for every day<br />
that go well with food and don’t break the<br />
bank. This is what we call undisguised, freshfaced<br />
Pfalz wine culture.<br />
88 2019 Chardonnay trocken<br />
Ripe pear on the nose, apple and freshly sliced pineapple, hazelnuts.<br />
Ripe acidity, a lovely tartness and citrus fruit; juicy<br />
and balanced. Harmonious Chardonnay that conveys the<br />
typicity of the grape variety well. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
88 2019 Gelber Muskateller<br />
88 2019 Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Clean-cut varietal expression; ripe mango, blackcurrant and<br />
lemongrass aromas. Juicy, sweetish fruit on the palate with<br />
balanced acid structure, salty notes with a hint of iodine.<br />
12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
88 2018 Grauburgunder trocken<br />
Rich, ripe aromas of pear, yellow fruit and nutty notes, some<br />
honey, herbs. On the palate there’s good texture and gentle<br />
acidity. The fruit sweetness provides balance and also harmony.<br />
Powerful and measured construction - shows both<br />
muscle and suppleness. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
88 2019 »Lieblingsmensch Weiss«<br />
feinherb WB/SÄ<br />
Pinot Blanc and Scheurebe form the wine “Lieblingsmensch”,<br />
with scents of yellow gooseberry, apricot, tangerine<br />
and white flowers. Quite smooth on the palate with mild<br />
acidity and a vivid fruit sweetness. A well rounded cuvée, delightful<br />
aperitif. 11,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2018 Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Tangerine peel on the nose, white flowers, almonds, meadow<br />
herbs and also mirabelle plums. Juicy on the palate<br />
with gentle acidity. Starts softly, medium bodied, keeps the<br />
balance of freshness and ripeness, citrus notes on the mid<br />
palate provide fresh tartness. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
425
WEINGUT WOW<br />
Freinsheimer Weg 9, 67281 Bissersheim<br />
T: +49 (6359) 3779, info@wolfgangsweine.de<br />
wolfgangsweine.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Wolfgang Bender<br />
Contact: Wolfgang Bender<br />
Hectares: 13 ha<br />
The fact that Wolfgang Bender has his<br />
own views becomes apparent very<br />
quickly. He took over his family estate<br />
in Bissersheim in 2011 at age 22. He offers his<br />
dry Riesling Auslese that clocks up 14% ABV<br />
in a litre-bottle, his multi-layered red wine<br />
blend “Time to say Peace” is dedicated to “tolerance,<br />
peace and humanity in turbulent<br />
times.” He had a 30-year-old vineyard of<br />
Siegerrebe top-grafted to Chenin Blanc from<br />
which he now makes a wine with intense savouriness.<br />
We appreciate winemakers like<br />
Wolfgang Bender, uncompromisingly turning<br />
their unorthodox ideas into reality.<br />
90 2018 »Réserve« Chenin Blanc<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
Ripe citrus fruit and apple on the nose, grapefruit, apricot,<br />
preserved lemon. Intense spice on the palate complements<br />
the ripe fruit notes. Tightly built, good substance, phenolic<br />
and also slightly peppery, ripe acidity. A French variety that<br />
does well in the Pfalz. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
91 2018 »Time to say Peace«<br />
Landwein trocken ME/CS<br />
Penetrating and spicy nose of cassis and dark berries, tea, ink<br />
and forest floor. On the palate tidy with sweet extract and<br />
beautiful fruit. Powerful stature, spice, lots of substance,<br />
multi-layered. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon trocken<br />
Powerful bouquet characterised by cassis, wood spice, rosehip<br />
and juniper berry. Tightly and powerfully structured on<br />
the palate. Dry and with vivid acidity, depicts the powerful<br />
year, but also shows freshness. Pure in fruit, individualistic.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2017 Merlot trocken<br />
Woody notes on the nose; dark berry fruit and spice, rosehip,<br />
blackberry and black cherry, cassis. On the palate there is a<br />
prominent tannin framework, powerful and forceful, not a<br />
wine that is on the light side, nevertheless shows fruity elegance<br />
and consistency. 13,3 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2017 »Réserve« Weissburgunder &<br />
Chardonnay Landwein trocken<br />
89 2019 Grauer Burgunder Landwein trocken<br />
88 2019 Bissersheim Held<br />
Riesling Auslese trocken (litre)<br />
88 2019 Weissburgunder Landwein trocken<br />
89 2018 »Samira Blanc de Noir«<br />
Landwein trocken PN/BP<br />
89 2017 »Tilt« Landwein trocken<br />
89 2017 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
90 2018 Silvaner Landwein trocken<br />
Ripe apple on the nose, herbaceous, rosehip and pear.<br />
Juicy palate with apple fruit, good extract and density. Dry<br />
and direct, very natural in expression, compact construction,<br />
tightly woven and good balance. Balanced acidity,<br />
mineral hints. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
426 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT ZELT<br />
Pfalz | WINERIES<br />
Binsenstrasse 2, 67229 Laumersheim<br />
T: +49 (6238) 3281, info@weingutzelt.de<br />
www.weingutzelt.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 10–12 hrs and<br />
14–18 hrs, Saturdays 10–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Lotte Iglhaut<br />
Contact: Mario Zelt<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 130,000 (50 % white, 50 % red)/16 ha<br />
Things are moving fast at Mario Zelt’s<br />
winery: all throughout summer 2020<br />
there were buiding works, new construction<br />
and refurbishment works. The harvest<br />
was pressed in the new winery – and we<br />
are curious! The wines that were presented<br />
from the 2017 and 2018 vintages come across<br />
as “business as usual”: the Rieslings are in the<br />
rather corpulent camp, the Spätburgunders,<br />
by contrast, are all the more juicy and elegant.<br />
The 2018 vintage sat particularly well with<br />
this style. The Bordeaux blend is also remarkable.<br />
90 2018 Laumersheim Kirschgarten<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Deep, dark spice, autumn apple. Juicy and round on the palate,<br />
fine grip, tangy with fine sweet fruit concentration. Tart<br />
hints, some piquancy and spiciness, herbal spice, stone fruit<br />
and incisive acidity. Good length. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
88 2018 Laumersheim Kirschgarten<br />
Chardonnay trocken<br />
93 2017 Laumersheim Kirschgarten<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Dark notes, sweet cherry, wood spice, hints of iodine, brooding<br />
minerality. Clear and well textured with fine grained tannins<br />
on the palate. Depth and calmness are complemented<br />
by fine juicy notes of sour cherry. Gripping towards the back<br />
with a lively acid structure. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2017 »Trilogie« trocken CS/ME/CF<br />
Dense, delicately spicy, cherry fruit, blueberry, cool nuances<br />
of mint. On the palate there is fine grip, dark spice, fresh fruit<br />
with tart hints. Grainy mature tannins give bite. Juicy, lively<br />
acid structure. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2017 Grosskarlbach Burgweg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Red fruit (strawberry/wild raspberry), subtle smoke, pencil,<br />
slightly stemmy undertones, a hint of white pepper and nutmeg,<br />
discreet wood spice. Clear, fresh, juicy on the palate<br />
there is fine acidity and good grip. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2018 Laumersheim Kapellenberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Yellow fruit and dark spice on the nose. Juicy, full bodied,<br />
round on the palate with concise, if accentuated acidity.<br />
Pome fruit, vegetal undertones. Fine grip with herbal spice<br />
and bright citrus fruit. A powerful take on the vintage.<br />
13 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
427
WEINGUT ZIMMERMANN<br />
Grabenstrasse 5, 67157 Wachenheim<br />
T: +49 (6322) 2384, info@wein-zimmermann.de<br />
www.wein-zimmermann.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–12 hrs and<br />
14–18 hrs, Saturdays 9–15 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Jürgen Zimmermann<br />
Contact: Jürgen Zimmermann<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 80,000 (90 % white, 10 % red)/11 ha<br />
This year, once again, we are happy to<br />
confirm that Weingut Zimmermann in<br />
Wachenheim with its single-site Rieslings<br />
is in the top league of the Mittelhaardt estates.<br />
Cellar master Jürgen Zimmermann<br />
knows exactly how to depict the hallmarks<br />
and differences of each single site clearly. His<br />
Riesling Altenburg shows striking minerality –<br />
in an unobtrusive fashion. The Riesling from<br />
the Gerümpel site, on the other hand, shows its<br />
power and substance. The Riesling from the<br />
Fuchsmantel site is already accessible with its<br />
playful elegance. What a boon that these wines<br />
are available at most attractive prices!<br />
93 2019 Wachenheim Altenburg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
The nose is characterised by minerality, apple, citrus fruit<br />
and subtle wood spice. On the palate; juicy, fruity-sweet and<br />
soft in texture, increasing complexity with phenolic layering<br />
and striking minerality. Long lasting on the palate, lots of potential.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
firm in structure, ripe stone fruit on the palate. Juicy with<br />
ripe acidity and slightly astringent tannins. No charmer,<br />
dominated by structure but full of potential.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
88 2019 Weissburgunder trocken<br />
92 2019 Wachenheim Gerümpel<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Hop blossom on the nose, orange peel a little citrus fruit and<br />
delicate smoke. Strong texture with good substance on the<br />
palate. Ripe acidity, accompanies subtle fruit sweetness,<br />
phenolic layers and a mineral impression lends character.<br />
Young and talented. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2019 Wachenheim Fuchsmantel<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Restrained fragrance with yellow fruit, apricot, apple also<br />
pebble. Initially juicy on the palate with sweetish fruit then<br />
increasingly mineral notes, integrated acid vein. Not too<br />
complex, but of a fine tactile nature. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €<br />
90 2019 Wachenheim Schlossberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
The aroma is marked by the ageing in wooden barrels, roasted<br />
chestnut, nut aromas, spices, herbs and smoke. Strong,<br />
89 2019 Wachenheim Luginsland<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Inviting aroma of fresh, sweet peach, apricot and touch of<br />
leafiness, delicate floral spice. A finely balanced Riesling<br />
with clear fruit and well integrated acidity. Juicy and with<br />
texture, lively and elegant. A solid entry into the Riesling<br />
category. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
428 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
PFALZ | INNS AND RESTAURANTS<br />
Neustadt an der Weinstrasse<br />
PASSIONATE<br />
HOSTS<br />
TOGETHER WITH THE REGION’S WINEMAKERS – ABSOLUTE EXPERTS<br />
WHEN IT COMES TO GASTRONOMY – FALSTAFF HAS CAREFULLY CHOSEN<br />
AND COLLATED THE BEST ADDRESSES FOR EATING,<br />
DRINKING AND STAYING.<br />
Bach-Mayer <br />
67098 Bad Dürkheim<br />
Carsten di Lorenzi serves home-style regional dishes<br />
with French, Italian and Austrian accents at<br />
this winebar located in an old princely hunting<br />
lodge. All the wines are made by winemaking friends<br />
of his around Bad Dürkheim, Bensheim or<br />
Deidesheim, for example.<br />
Gerberstrasse 13<br />
+49 (6322) 92120<br />
www.bach-mayer.de<br />
<br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 17 | 20<br />
Drinks: 17 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
85<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
80–84<br />
85–89<br />
90–94<br />
95–100 Points<br />
429
Knipsers Halbstück<br />
67281 Bissersheim<br />
Wines made by the Knipser family are sought<br />
after, but you can enjoy them by the glass in their<br />
beautiful estate restaurant in Bissersheim,<br />
alongside hearty and authentic Pfalz specialities.<br />
The cooking also reflects the seasons.<br />
Hollergasse 2<br />
+49 (6359) 9459211<br />
www.halbstueck.de<br />
Recommended by: Weingut WoW<br />
Käsbüro<br />
67098 Bad Dürkheim<br />
The Weinstube is one of the most traditional restaurants<br />
in Bad Dürkheim and is housed in a former<br />
abbess's house. The menu features upscale<br />
Mediterranean specialities and excellent wines<br />
from the region. In the beautiful inner courtyard<br />
you can sit under climbing vines.<br />
Ritterhof zur Rose<br />
76835 Burrweiler<br />
Florian Winter's regional cuisine is amongst the<br />
best in the Pfalz; his dishes thrive on first-rate ingredients<br />
and exquisite culinary craftsmanship.<br />
The menu is pleasantly diverse and also includes<br />
creative vegetarian options. Very good wine selection.<br />
Dorfplatz 1<br />
+49 (6322) 680963<br />
www.kaesbuero.de<br />
Weinstrasse 6a<br />
+49 (6345) 407328<br />
www.ritterhofzurrose.de<br />
Recommended by: Falstaff-Redaktion<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Jürgen Leiner,<br />
Weingut Michael Andres<br />
Goldberg<br />
67281 Bissersheim<br />
If you want to experience a convivial and cosy<br />
evening of German and Mediterranean food, this<br />
is the place for you. In addition to the regional dishes,<br />
the seafood is particularly popular. In summer<br />
you can even sit outside.<br />
1718<br />
67146 Deidesheim<br />
Diners enjoy French-inspired cuisine and regional<br />
wines from around Deidesheim at the restaurant<br />
of the ‘Ketschauer Hof’, both for lunch and dinner.<br />
If you love dining outdoors even in cooler<br />
temperatures, the terrace is heated.<br />
Hauptstrasse 43<br />
+49 (6359) 960423<br />
www.goldberg-restaurant-bissersheim.eatbu.com<br />
Ketschauerhofstrasse 1<br />
+49 (6326) 70000<br />
www.ketschauer-hof.com<br />
Recommended by: Weingut WoW<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Reichsrat von Buhl<br />
430 falstaff<br />
Wine Guide Germany 2021
PFALZ | INNS AND RESTAURANTS<br />
L.A. Jordan<br />
67146 Deidesheim<br />
Daniel Schimkowitsch has turned this stylish restaurant<br />
into a culinary hotspot of the Pfalz with<br />
his unusual creations, skilfully combining local<br />
produce with Asian accents. The well-stocked<br />
wine list leaves hardly anything to be desired.<br />
Schwarzer Hahn<br />
67146 Deidesheim<br />
The interior of this legendary gourmet restaurant<br />
has been somewhat refreshed and given a stylish<br />
overhaul. The kitchen under Stefan Neugebauer<br />
remains true to its renown and combines regional<br />
tradition with creative elements to deliver upscale<br />
cuisine with a fresh approach.<br />
Ketschauerhofstrasse 1<br />
+49 (6326) 70000<br />
www.ketschauer-hof.com<br />
Am Marktplatz 1<br />
+49 (6326) 96870<br />
www.restaurant-schwarzer-hahn.de<br />
Recommended by: Falstaff-Redaktion<br />
Leopold <br />
67146 Deidesheim<br />
Named after the founder of the winery Leopold<br />
von Winning, the chefs Michael Pauli and Christian<br />
Meier spoil their guests with specialities of<br />
Pfalz cuisine. These are accompanied by selected<br />
wines from their own estate and from wineries<br />
run by friends.<br />
Recommended by: Falstaff-Redaktion<br />
Weinstrasse 10<br />
+49 (6326) 9668888<br />
www.von-winning.de<br />
<br />
Restaurant<br />
St. Urban<br />
<br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 9 | 10<br />
88<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
67146 Deidesheim<br />
Time and again the authentic Pfalz country house<br />
cooking has won over even outsiders like prominent<br />
politicians. Their Saumangen, served in a tasteful<br />
settings, is more than legendary. The beautiful<br />
terrace offers views of the historic market<br />
square.<br />
Siben's<br />
Gutsküche <br />
67146 Deidesheim<br />
This long-established winery has been in the same<br />
family's hands for around 300 years. Their restaurant<br />
is housed in the lovingly converted former<br />
stables and seasonal Pfalz specialities are served.<br />
Am Marktplatz<br />
+49 (6326) 96870<br />
www.deidesheimerhof.de<br />
Food: 42 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
Weinstrasse 21<br />
+49 (6326) 989363<br />
www.weingut-siben.de<br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 17 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
<br />
86<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
<br />
86<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
80–84<br />
85–89<br />
90–94<br />
95–100 Points<br />
431
Noëls Prinz<br />
67147 Forst an der<br />
Weinstrasse<br />
In order to eat a first-rate fish soup ‘Marseille-style’<br />
you have to go to Noël Matacz. The Alsatian-born<br />
chef has given his cuisine an entirely<br />
French orientation and serves the great classics of<br />
the ‘cuisine traditionelle’ in lovely surroundings<br />
made even more attractive by friendly staff.<br />
Robichon<br />
76833 Frankweiler<br />
In a homely atmosphere, Hanne and Bruno Robichon<br />
welcome their guests and spoil them with genuine<br />
French cuisine. The set menus, called ‘Plaisir’<br />
or ‘Gourmet’, for example, are always a good<br />
choice. The charming staff make great wine recommendations.<br />
Weinstrasse 50a<br />
+49 (6326) 701647<br />
www.noels-prinz.de<br />
Orensfelsstrasse 31<br />
+49 (6345) 3268<br />
www.restaurant-robichon.de<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Margarethenhof<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Katrin Wind,<br />
Weingut Villa Hochdörffer<br />
Zum Schockelgaul<br />
67147 Forst an der<br />
Weinstrasse<br />
Pfalz hospitality has been cultivated in this cosy<br />
Weinstube for 40 years. Everything on the plates<br />
comes from the local area, and the wines are from<br />
the Forster vineyards. The house speciality is the<br />
legendary Cordon Bleu with fried potatoes, just<br />
like at home.<br />
Karlbacher<br />
67229 Grosskarlbach<br />
In the lovingly-restored 17th century half-timbered<br />
house, Alsatian-born Christian Rubert cooks<br />
with fresh seasonal produce. Guests enjoy the culinary<br />
delights in the romantic Weinstube, in the<br />
vault cellar or in the glass-covered inner courtyard.<br />
Weinstrasse 96<br />
+49 (6326) 5669<br />
www.schockelgaul.de<br />
Hauptstrasse 57<br />
+49 (6238) 3737<br />
www.karlbacher.info<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Margarethenhof<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Reibold<br />
432 falstaff<br />
Wine Guide Germany 2021
Pfälzer Stuben<br />
im Hotel Krone <br />
76863<br />
Herxheim-Hayna<br />
Chef Fabio Daneluzzi has impressed guests for years<br />
with his excellent Pfalz cuisine, served in a beautifully<br />
rustic atmosphere by friendly staff.<br />
Many Pfalz treasures mature in the wine cellar of<br />
this traditional family business.<br />
PFALZ | INNS AND RESTAURANTS<br />
Kapeller<br />
Hopfestubb <br />
76889 Kapellen-<br />
Drusweiler<br />
The Wendel family understands genuine Pfalz<br />
hospitality, they serve exactly the right food to go<br />
with their wines. Also, it doesn't always have to be<br />
Saumagen or rump steak; homemade pasta and<br />
salmon steak are also on the diverse menu.<br />
Hauptstrasse 62-64<br />
+49 (7276) 5080<br />
www.hotelkrone.de<br />
<br />
Hubertushof <br />
Food: 45 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
89<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
76831 Ilbesheim<br />
Hosts Sandra Bernhard and Jochen Sitter have<br />
created a feel-good place for connoisseurs in the<br />
former coaching inn. Pfalz wines and modern interpretations<br />
of classic cooking meet a picturesque<br />
half-timbered house surrounded by vines<br />
with an idyllic inner courtyard.<br />
Obere Hauptstrasse 8<br />
+49 (6343) 8245<br />
www.hopfestubb.de<br />
<br />
Weinstube Hahn <br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 17 | 20<br />
Drinks: 17 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
85<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
76829 Landau<br />
in der Pfalz<br />
Slow Food the Pfalz way: this family-run Weinstube<br />
has delighted regulars with regional kitchen<br />
classics for decades. Fläschknepp with horseradish<br />
sauce and Bratkartoffeln are particularly popular.<br />
The local Pfalz wines are an excellent<br />
match.<br />
Arzheimer Strasse 5<br />
+49 (6341) 930239<br />
Food:<br />
Service:<br />
43 | 50<br />
18 | 20<br />
www.restaurant-hubertushof-ilbesheim.de Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 9 | 10<br />
<br />
88<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
Arzheimer Hauptstrasse 50<br />
+49 (6341) 33144<br />
<br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 17 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
86<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
Intense<br />
67169 Kallstadt<br />
Behind the historic façade, Benjamin Pfeifer has<br />
established a modern restaurant where he skilfully<br />
combines regional dishes made from local produce<br />
with Japanese influences. This gives the<br />
menu exciting aromatic effects that are in a class<br />
of their own.<br />
Alte Pfarrey<br />
67271 Neuleiningen<br />
At weekends the handful of rooms at the Pfarrey<br />
Hotel are quickly booked up, and reservations<br />
should definitely be made for the restaurant. We<br />
can highly recommend the set menus and the diverse<br />
wine list.<br />
Weinstrasse 80<br />
+49 (6322) 9591150<br />
www.restaurant-inten.se<br />
Untergasse 54<br />
+49 (6359) 86066<br />
www.altepfarrey.com<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Gabel, Weingut am Nil<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Zelt<br />
80–84<br />
85–89<br />
90–94<br />
95–100 Points<br />
433
H'manns <br />
67271 Neuleiningen<br />
Chris Brigitte and Andreas Hegmann are gastronomic<br />
all-rounders who bake bread, make ice cream<br />
and pasta, grow herbs and cook passionately.<br />
Their restaurant thus is a place of indulgence,<br />
their excellent cooking is seasonal and regional,<br />
classic and modern.<br />
Fritz Walter <br />
76889 Niederhorbach<br />
The wine hotel with its stylish rooms is a great address<br />
for a weekend trip. In the adjoining restaurant,<br />
guests experience very well-executed and<br />
confident cooking that conjures up classic and<br />
modern dishes, all made from first-rate produce.<br />
Am Goldberg 2<br />
+49 (6359) 5341<br />
<br />
Eselsburg <br />
Food: 44 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 19 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
89<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
67435 Neustadt an der<br />
Weinstrasse<br />
Anette Berberich's small Weinstube may not be on<br />
a main route, but it has long enjoyed cult status<br />
and is now a Pfalz institution. The menu features<br />
genuine Pfalz classics, and the well-thought-out<br />
wine list features wines from top local estates.<br />
Landauer Strasse 82<br />
+49 (6343) 936550<br />
www.fritz-walter.de<br />
<br />
Hofgut<br />
Ruppertsberg <br />
Food: 45 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
89<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
67152 Ruppertsberg<br />
At the traditional Hofgut, chef Jean-Philipp Aiguier<br />
is an absolutely seasonal cook, using only regional,<br />
organic produce. The kitchen offers two set<br />
menus, accompanied by wines from almost all<br />
European growing regions.<br />
Kurpfalzstrasse 62<br />
+49 (6321) 66984<br />
www.eselsburg.de<br />
<br />
Spinne <br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 17 | 20<br />
Drinks: 17 | 20<br />
Ambience: 9 | 10<br />
86<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
67433 Neustadt an der<br />
Weinstrasse<br />
Jörg Friedrich likes to think outside the box with<br />
his creative cooking. The attractive menu includes<br />
fillet of locally-caught pike-perch, scallops, rack<br />
of lamb and black-feathered chicken with truffles.<br />
Christiana Mix is responsible for the gracious<br />
front-of-house service.<br />
Obergasse 2<br />
+49 (6326) 982097<br />
www.dashofgut.com<br />
<br />
Kirchstübel <br />
Food: 44 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 17 | 20<br />
Ambience: 9 | 10<br />
88<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
67487 St. Martin<br />
The cosy Weinstube has long been a Pfalz institution<br />
and only local wines are served here. When it<br />
gets crowded, people cram closer together and order<br />
classic Flammkuchen, small plates of hearty<br />
Pfalz specialities and, at the weekend, homemade<br />
cakes.<br />
Eichkehle 58<br />
+49 (6321) 9597799<br />
www.restaurant-spinne.com<br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 17 | 20<br />
Drinks: 16 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
Kirchstrasse 9<br />
+49 (6323) 949131<br />
www.kirchstuebel.de<br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
<br />
84<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
<br />
87<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
434 falstaff<br />
Wine Guide Germany 2021
Bauer’s Stuben <br />
67482 Venningen<br />
This family-run Gutshof has been cherished for its<br />
warm hospitality and authentic down-to-earth<br />
cooking for more than 40 years. Pfalz specialities<br />
are served here as well as variations of Flammkuchen<br />
(tarte flambée) and delicious desserts.<br />
PFALZ | INNS AND RESTAURANTS<br />
Gerümpelstube<br />
67157 Wachenheim an<br />
der Weinstrasse<br />
Located right on the German Wine Route, Gerümpelstube<br />
represents Pfalz hospitality: ambitious,<br />
high-quality, regional Pfalz cooking with Mediterranean<br />
flair combined with excellent wines<br />
from the region, selected with love and care.<br />
Altdorfer Strasse 3<br />
+49 (6323) 2734<br />
www.gutshof-bauer.de<br />
<br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 17 | 20<br />
Drinks: 17 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
85<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
Hintergasse 4<br />
+49 (6322) 8550<br />
www.geruempelstube.de<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Zimmermann<br />
Admiral<br />
67273 Weisenheim<br />
am Berg<br />
Charming Pfalz hospitality and inspiring cuisine:<br />
with his creations, chef Holger Stehr skilfully<br />
roams through the international world of produce<br />
and flavours without losing sight of his homeland.<br />
His wife Martina provides excellent wine<br />
matches.<br />
Leistadter Strasse 6<br />
+49 (6353) 4175<br />
www.admiral-weisenheim.de<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Gabel<br />
Hambel's<br />
67157 Wachenheim<br />
Legendary traditional Pfalz cuisine from the<br />
Hambel butchery was made world-famous in its<br />
day by Helmut Kohl. The former German chancellor<br />
loved the original Pfälzer Saumagen, which<br />
has since achieved cult status. Other hearty dishes:<br />
black pudding or salad of Schwartenmagen.<br />
Winzerstube Weyher<br />
76835 Weyher<br />
in der Pfalz<br />
The view of the Rhine plain from the terrace is<br />
quite something, as is the food from this kitchen.<br />
An unusual combination of familiar ingredients,<br />
refined and served with great attention to detail,<br />
delights the guests. Every Friday evening fish is on<br />
the menu.<br />
Bahnhofstrasse 17<br />
+49 (6322) 9563340<br />
www.metzgerei-hambel.de<br />
Kirchgasse 19<br />
+49 (6323) 987818<br />
www.volker-krug.de<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Zimmermann<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Meier<br />
80–84<br />
85–89<br />
90–94<br />
95–100 Points<br />
435
Photo: WSNA<br />
RHEINGAU<br />
MOST PLEASANT IN THE GLASS
With its 70% incline, the Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg<br />
site is the steepest vineyard of the Rheingau<br />
A TICKET FROM<br />
HOCHHEIM TO LORCH<br />
AND BACK PLEASE<br />
How do you best subdivide the Rheingau? How to categorise it in a fashion<br />
that does justice to the diversity of its wines? Here is a fresh attempt.<br />
WORDS ULRICH SAUTTER<br />
It takes the Deutsche Bahn rail service an<br />
hour and five minutes to cover the distance<br />
between Hochheim and Lorch.<br />
While travelling, you pass 3,185ha/7870<br />
acres of vineyard, more or less visible from<br />
the train track. Rheingau is not a large region<br />
but even within the moderate confines of<br />
German viticulture Rheingau only takes<br />
eighth place in terms of hectarage.<br />
Nonetheless, your head quickly starts<br />
spinning when you try to define a common<br />
Rheingau thread. Certainly, Riesling thrives<br />
throughout, but considering the quality levels<br />
at which Rheingau wines are discussed this<br />
does not really say much. If you delve deeper<br />
into the subject, you realise that the wines<br />
grown in Hochheim have little in common<br />
with those grown in Lorch. Even if you zoom<br />
into a smaller area, the wines grown close to<br />
the forest and those at higher elevations in<br />
the Steinberg, taste completely different from<br />
those grown in the Erbacher Marcobrunn on<br />
the river – and the distance is just four<br />
kilometres as the crow flies.<br />
VALLEY AND MOUNTAIN<br />
The first attempt at classifying the<br />
Rheingau vineyards, undertaken in 1867<br />
by Friedrich Wilhelm Dünkelberg, and<br />
unearthed from the dusty darkness of an<br />
archive just a few years ago by historian<br />
and journalist Daniel Deckers, supports<br />
438 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
RHEINGAU | A PORTRAIT OF THE REGION<br />
Photos: www.rheingau.de/Rüdesheim Tourist AG/Karlheinz Walter, provided, Marcia Breuer/Weingut Georg Breuer<br />
the discourse that is still prevalent and<br />
even pervasive amongst Rheingau<br />
winemakers today: the division between<br />
“Berglagen”, or hill sites, which should be<br />
seen as privileged, and the rest. If you look<br />
at Dünkelberg’s map, it is above all the<br />
sites beyond the river which are highlighted<br />
in the deep red reserved for first class sites:<br />
in Rauenthal these are Gehren, Wieshell<br />
and Rothenberg. Wieshell has now been<br />
subsumed into Baiken and Gehrn. The<br />
dark red outline of the Rothenberg, as<br />
marked on that map, does not include the<br />
Nonnenberg. Both Gräfenberg and<br />
Turmberg in Kiedrich are marked dark red<br />
and so are Steinberg and Schloss<br />
Johannisberg. Next to these, the tiny dark<br />
red spots of the Hochheimer Domdechaney<br />
and the Erbacher Marcobrunn hardly<br />
seem significant.<br />
The Geisenheimer Rothenberg and the<br />
different sites on the Rüdesheimer Berg<br />
take a middling rank. The cliché of the<br />
“Berglagen” purports that the soils there<br />
are stony and characterised by slate and<br />
that the resulting wines therefore are<br />
“cooler”, more mineral and firm. Of<br />
course, the 50-80m/164-262ft of altitude<br />
Riesling expert Tom Drieseberg runs not one<br />
but two top Rheingau estates: J. Wegeler<br />
and Krone Assmannshausen<br />
Fred Prinz of Weingut Prinz farms his<br />
high altitude sites in the Rheingau<br />
according to biodynamic principles<br />
make a climatic difference. However, if<br />
you look at the soil maps of the vineyards<br />
published by the regional Hessian<br />
government in the 1980s and 90s, that<br />
image of the stony “Berglagen” clearly<br />
starts showing cracks. Let’s take the<br />
Johannisberg: Dünkelberg restricts its first<br />
class status to the central knoll where the<br />
soils are actually “deep, dry to fresh,<br />
439
Good vibes in the historic, vaulted cellar:<br />
Bernd and Andreas Spreitzer of Weingut Spreitzer<br />
mostly calcareous”. It is loess with an<br />
admixture of gravel that dominates there.<br />
In its upper reaches you will find loessloam<br />
with quartzite debris and inclusions<br />
of red shale. The soils that the “Berglage”<br />
cliché proliferates are present in exactly<br />
those places Dünkelberg left blank in his<br />
classification. In the far west of the<br />
Johannisberg – classified by the VDP<br />
today – you will find quartzite with<br />
inclusions of shale, plus loess-loam with a<br />
slight admixture of sand, loess-loam with<br />
admixtures of quartzite debris and partial<br />
inclusions of red shale. In total: “medium<br />
to deep soil, dry to fresh, mostly<br />
non-calcareous.”<br />
What does that tell us? That both<br />
Dünkelberg and the VDP had valid<br />
reasons for their respective decisions. The<br />
finding of Dünkelberg’s classification<br />
RHEINGAU WINE REGION<br />
Growing area<br />
approx. 3100 hectares<br />
Administrative Split<br />
1 district (Bereich), 11 collective sites<br />
(Grosslage), 129 single sites (Einzellagen)<br />
Soils<br />
Quartzite, gravel, loam, loess<br />
Important Grape Varieties<br />
Riesling, Spätburgunder<br />
Winegrowers’ Association<br />
Rheingauer Weinwerbung GmbH<br />
Kloster Eberbach-Pfortenhaus<br />
www.kulturland-rheingau.de<br />
440 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
RHEINGAU | A PORTRAIT OF THE REGION<br />
Photos: provided, Deutsches Weininstitut/www.deutscheweine.de<br />
approach is that even – and especially –<br />
the slate soils need a little fat, i.e. loam or<br />
clay and therefore water retention, in<br />
order to deliver consistent results.<br />
Dünkelberg’s motivation is equally clear in<br />
Kiedrich where he awards higher<br />
classifications to parcels of “loess-slope<br />
loam with admixture of mica schist” than<br />
those of “weathered mica schist with<br />
non-calcareous loess-loam admixture”.<br />
Which means? More loam with a little<br />
mica schist is better than mica schist with<br />
a little loam. Today the consequences of<br />
climate change come on top of these<br />
multifarious effects. For the most part they<br />
seem to have been considered in the VDP’s<br />
classification. Ripening grapes is no longer<br />
restricted to fully south-facing sites. And if<br />
the possibility of irrigation will compensate<br />
for the dryness of certain sites in the future,<br />
it will merely make the mosaic of Rheingau<br />
sites even more complex.<br />
LIMESTONE<br />
One element which usually has high currency<br />
across the world of wine but is often<br />
overlooked in the Rheingau is limestone.<br />
Sites near the river like Marcobrunn, Sankt<br />
Nikolaus and Jesuitengarten benefit – like the<br />
By now, Philipp Corvers of Weingut<br />
Dr. Corvers-Kauter and his father farm<br />
30 hectares of vineyards together<br />
best limestone sites of Rheinhessen on the<br />
opposite bank of the Rhine – from the<br />
calcareous substrates of the Mainz Basin<br />
which approximately 20 million years ago<br />
used to be an inland sea. If you thus want to<br />
subdivide the Rheingau sensibly, the relevant<br />
question for the categorisation of any<br />
vineyard might be formulated as follows:<br />
where within that square of soil depth,<br />
calcareousness, presence of quartzite/slate<br />
and altitude is it located? Normally you<br />
would expect that deep soils and<br />
calcareousness correlate with valley sites. The<br />
two outer points of Hochheim and Lorch fit<br />
this profile: Hochheim with its heavy loess<br />
loams and calcareous marls near the river,<br />
Lorch with shallow soils and stony slopes.<br />
However, the Rheingau also boasts sites like<br />
the Steinberg that combines the depth of its<br />
soils with altitude and slate. In the end, and<br />
that really means that the Rheingau, within<br />
your glass, thus remains complex and hard to<br />
fathom. What a pleasure.<br />
INFO<br />
Lord over poor slate and heavy<br />
loam soils: Dr. Matthias Corvers<br />
of Weingut Dr. Corvers-Kauter<br />
Read more about this author in our Tasting<br />
Panel chapter on page 12.<br />
441
A small Spätburgunder enclave within a sea of<br />
Riesling: the Assmannshäuser Höllenberg site<br />
GRANDS CRUS – RHEINGAU<br />
TOP WINES FROM PRIVILEGED SITES OF THE REGION<br />
LORCH | KRONE<br />
First documented in 1339, this 8ha/19.7<br />
acre southwest-facing site rises between<br />
80-115m/262-380ft with inclines between<br />
45-50%. The medium to deep, slightly<br />
calcareous loess soils which also show some<br />
slate and quartzite are predominantly<br />
planted to Riesling.<br />
92 2019 Riesling »Grosses Gewächs« tr.<br />
Weingut Mohr,<br />
further info on page 476<br />
ASSMANNSHAUSEN |<br />
HÖLLENBERG<br />
Derived from the old German term “Helda“<br />
which denotes a steep slope, the Höllenberg<br />
has been planted to vines since 1470. This<br />
red wine site, rising at inclines between 30-<br />
60% from 80-300m/262-984ft faces<br />
south-southwest and has medium to deep<br />
soils of foliated layers of weathered mica<br />
schist with a portion of loess.<br />
97 2015 Spätburgunder GG<br />
96 2016 Spätburgunder GG<br />
Weingut August Kesseler, further info on page 467<br />
95 2018 Spätburgunder GG<br />
Weingut Künstler, further info on page 472<br />
95 2009 Spätburgunder<br />
»im Barrique gereift« trocken<br />
94 2013 Pinot Noir trocken<br />
94 2012 Pinot Noir trocken<br />
Bischöfliches Weingut Rüdesheim, page 451<br />
94 2018 Pinot Noir trocken<br />
Weingut Chat Sauvage , further info on page 454<br />
93 2015 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Weingut Krone Assmannshausen, page 470<br />
93 2017 »Crescentia« Spätburgunder<br />
Hessische Staatsweingüter,<br />
Domäne Assmannshausen<br />
93 2015 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
93 2013 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
92 2016 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
92 2018 Spätburgunder S trocken<br />
Alte Bauernschänke – Konrad Berg,<br />
further info on page 450<br />
92 2018 Spätburgunder GG<br />
Weingut Fritz Allendorf, further info on page 446<br />
442 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
RHEINGAU | GRANDS CRUS<br />
RÜDESHEIM | BERG ROSENECK<br />
Named after the rose hedges that used to grow<br />
here, this fully south-facing site rises 160-<br />
200m/524-656 feet at inclines of up to 60%<br />
and is divided into an eastern and western<br />
part. The eastern part is rather flat with deep<br />
loess-loam soils while the steep, western part<br />
has very stony medium-to-deep soils.<br />
95 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Weingut August Kesseler, further info on page 467<br />
94 2016 Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Georg Breuer, further info on page 452<br />
94 2014 Riesling Alte Reben trocken<br />
94 2011 Riesling Alte Reben trocken<br />
93 2016 Riesling Alte Reben trocken<br />
Bischöfliches Weingut Rüdesheim, page 451<br />
93 2018 Katerloch Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Leitz, further info on page 473<br />
92 2018 Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Fritz Allendorf, further info on page 446<br />
92 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
Weingut Dr. Corvers-Kauter, further info on page 455<br />
RÜDESHEIM | BERG SCHLOSSBERG<br />
Sitting just below Castle Ehrenfels which lent<br />
its name, the Schlossberg has been cultivated<br />
since the 13the century. With inclines of up to<br />
70% it rises from 90-170m/295-557ft and is<br />
amongst the steepest vineyards of the<br />
Rheingau. Its 22ha/54 acres are of weathered<br />
quartzite are planted to both Riesling and<br />
Spätburgunder.<br />
97 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Weingut August Kesseler, further info on page 467<br />
96 2012 Riesling Alte Reben trocken<br />
95 2013 Katerloch Alte Reben Riesling tr.<br />
Bischöfliches Weingut Rüdesheim , page 451<br />
95 2018 Riesling trocken<br />
Weingut Georg Breuer, further info on page 452<br />
95 2017 Riesling GG<br />
Weingut August Kesseler, Further info on page 467<br />
94 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Weingüter Wegeler, further info on page 487<br />
93 2018 Ehrenfels Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Leitz, further info on page 473<br />
93 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Künstler, further info on page 472<br />
93 2018 Riesling »RGG«<br />
92 2019 Riesling »RGG«<br />
Domainenweingut Schloss Schönborn, info on p. 483<br />
93 2019 Katerloch Riesling trocken<br />
Bischöfliches Weingut Rüdesheim, info on page 451<br />
92 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
Weingut Dr. Corvers-Kauter, further info on page 455<br />
Rhine<br />
Lorch<br />
KRONE<br />
STEINBERG<br />
GRÄFENBERG<br />
WIESBADEN<br />
HÖLLENBERG<br />
BERG SCHLOSSBERG<br />
BERG ROSENECK<br />
Assmannshausen<br />
Rüdesheim<br />
Johannisberg<br />
Hattenheim<br />
SCHLOSS JOHANNISBERG<br />
Kiedrich<br />
Erbach<br />
MARCOBRUNN<br />
Rhine<br />
MAINZ<br />
Hochheim<br />
HÖLLE<br />
Main<br />
BERG ROTTLAND<br />
Photo: Shutterstock<br />
Selected Grand Cru Sites<br />
Vineyard Area<br />
Villages<br />
443
92 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
Weingut Dr. Corvers-Kauter,<br />
further info on page 455<br />
92 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
Domänenweingut Schloss Schönborn<br />
Further info on page 483<br />
90 2015 Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Johannishof, Further info on page 465<br />
HATTENHEIM | STEINBERG<br />
Schloss Johannisberg:<br />
viticultural history dating back<br />
to the 8th century<br />
92 2018 Riesling trocken<br />
Alte Bauernschänke – Konrad Berg, info on p. 450<br />
RÜDESHEIM | BERG ROTTLAND<br />
This 31ha/76 acre fully-south-facing site rises<br />
from 90-140m/295-459ft and has<br />
predominantly deep loess-loam soils with<br />
some slate, quartzite and gravel. Compared to<br />
Berg Schlossberg, Berg Rottland brings forth<br />
the more powerful wines of the Rüdesheimer<br />
Berg. The name is derived from the old term<br />
“rotten” which refers to the clearing of the site<br />
in the 11th century.<br />
94 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
Weingut Georg Breuer, further info on page 452<br />
94 2013 Riesling trocken<br />
Bischöfliches Weingut Rüdesheim<br />
further info on page 451<br />
93 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Künstler, further info on page 472<br />
93 2017 Riesling trocken<br />
92 2018 Riesling trocken<br />
Bischöfliches Weingut Rüdesheim<br />
further info on page 451<br />
92 2018 Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Balthasar Ress , further info on page 481<br />
92 2017 Hinterhaus Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Leitz , further info on page 473<br />
This 37ha/91 acre site, surrounded by a<br />
perimeter wall, is divided in two parts: the<br />
Zehnstück in the mid-slope for dry wines<br />
and the upper Mauerstück with trellising<br />
for the (residually sweet) Kabinett wines.<br />
At an altitude between 133-235m/436-<br />
755ft with inclines between 15-35%, its<br />
soils are medium to deep and of sandy,<br />
clay-rich loam which contains stony slate<br />
in its upper reaches. This former<br />
experimental vineyard of the Cistercians is<br />
now a monopole of the Hessian State<br />
Domaine at Kloster Eberbach.<br />
94 2018 Riesling GG<br />
90 2019 Riesling Kabinett<br />
Hessische Staatsweingüter, further info on page 429<br />
JOHANNISBERG |<br />
SCHLOSS JOHANNISBERG<br />
This site is not only legendary because the<br />
idea of Spätlese was supposedly invented<br />
here. No, its natural conditions are also<br />
unique. This history-steeped slope has<br />
medium to deep soils of loess and loessloam<br />
with an admixture of iron-oxide-rich<br />
slate and quartzite. The fully south-facing<br />
site rises from 114-182m/374-597ft.<br />
97 2019 »Blaulack» Riesling<br />
Trockenbeerenauslese<br />
94 2017 »Goldlack« Riesling trocken<br />
94 2019 »Rosalack» Riesling Auslese<br />
93 2019 »Silberlack« Riesling GG<br />
93 2019 »Grünlack» Riesling Spätlese<br />
Domäne Schloss Johannisberg, further info on<br />
page 464<br />
444 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
RHEINGAU | GRANDS CRUS<br />
KIEDRICH | GRÄFENBERG<br />
This spur of the Taunus mountains covers<br />
11ha/27 acres which rise from 393-590ft<br />
with inclines between 40-60%. Its<br />
medium-to-deep soils of stony, gritty mica<br />
schist with portions of loess and loam allow<br />
for deep root development of the vines and<br />
come with excellent water-holding capacity.<br />
It is a monopole of Weingut Robert Weil.<br />
98 2019 Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese<br />
97 2019 Riesling GG<br />
97 2019 Riesling Beerenauslese<br />
95 2019 Riesling Auslese<br />
Weingut Robert Weil, further info on page 488<br />
ERBACH | MARCOBRUNN<br />
South-facing site at an altitude of<br />
90-100m/295-328ft between the villages of<br />
Erbach and Hattenheim. The approx.<br />
7ha/17 acres have inclines up to 25% with<br />
excellent water availability. The mica-rich<br />
loess-loam soils are very calcareous.<br />
93 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Weingut von Oetinger, www.von-oetinger.de<br />
93 2019 Riesling »RGG«<br />
92 2018 Riesling »RGG«<br />
Domänenweingut Schloss Schönborn, info on p. 483<br />
92 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
Weingut Dr. Corvers-Kauter, further info on page 455<br />
92 2019 Riesling Spätlese<br />
Domänenweingut Schloss Schönborn, info on p. 483<br />
HOCHHEIM | HÖLLE<br />
The 44 hectares /109 acres have an incline of<br />
up to 3-% at an altitude of 75-100m/246-<br />
328ft. Facing south towards the river Main,<br />
the Hölle site is protected by the Taunus<br />
mountains and also benefits from the<br />
moderating influence of the river Rhine. It<br />
has rich soils of loess, gravel and clayey marl<br />
with some calcareous sediments.<br />
93 2019 Riesling GG<br />
91 2019 Riesling Im Neuenberg<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
Weingut Künstler, further info on page 472<br />
90 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 »Stückfass« Riesling trocken<br />
Weingut Im Weinegg, further info on page 489<br />
89 2019 Riesling Kabinett trocken<br />
Weingut Peter Flick, further info on page 461<br />
89 2018 Riesling trocken<br />
Domänenweingut Schloss Schönborn<br />
further info on page 483<br />
89 2019 Riesling Kabinett trocken<br />
89 2019 Riesling Spätlese trocken<br />
Bio-Weingut Mitter-Velten, further info on page 475<br />
Photo: Deutsches Weininstitut/www.deutscheweine.de<br />
Berg Rottland west of the town of Rüdesheim:<br />
the mesoclimates created by the river Rhine<br />
make for majestic wines<br />
445
WEINGUT FRITZ ALLENDORF<br />
Kirchstrasse 69, 65375 Oestrich-Winkel<br />
T: +49 (6723) 91850, allendorf@allendorf.de<br />
www.allendorf.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–12 hrs and<br />
13–18 hrs, Saturdays 10–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Max Schönleber<br />
Contact: Ulrich Allendorf<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 500,000 (85 % white, 15 % red)/70 ha<br />
Max Schönleber, cellar master at Weingut<br />
Allendorf, knows how to handle<br />
wood. Most of the Rieslings are matured<br />
in large barrels in order to gain structure<br />
– without losing any of their charm. Ulrich Allendorf<br />
presented no less than three Riesling<br />
Grosse Gewächse from the 2018 vintage – and<br />
his Riesling from the Hasensprung site is a<br />
great example of the house style: balanced<br />
power, dense and yet full of finesse. The Auslese<br />
from the same site is equally exquisite –<br />
and great Spätburgunder is made here as well.<br />
An impressive range of wines without anything<br />
to fault!<br />
93 2018 Winkel Hasensprung Riesling GG<br />
Smoky notes in the powerful aroma; liquorice, ripe stone<br />
fruit, floral hints, also pepper. On the palate there is a powerful<br />
structure: spicy, ripe acidity, good density on the midpalate,<br />
poised. Keeps everything well-balanced to display elegance.<br />
Good potential. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€€<br />
92 2018 Rüdesheim Berg Roseneck<br />
Riesling GG<br />
Nomen est omen (the name says it all): Smells of roses and<br />
ripe peach, also fine smoke. Good concentration on the palate,<br />
with sweetish juice and texture, almost opulent, yet<br />
clearly structured in texture. Medium tension, beautiful minerality<br />
leads into the finish. 12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
92 2018 Winkel Jesuitengarten Riesling GG<br />
Concentrated aroma of ripe stone fruit, apple and spice box.<br />
Juicy on the palate with quite zippy acidity, but compact texture,<br />
with medium concentration, slightly phenolic tartness<br />
and mineral hue. Peppery-spicy finish.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€€<br />
92 2018 Winkel Hasensprung<br />
Riesling Auslese<br />
Rich, bright yellow. On the nose dried fruits, candied lime and<br />
orange, dried apricot, blossom honey, citrus freshness. Powerful<br />
on the palate, sweetness and acidity in balance, citrus fruit,<br />
passion fruit, well built, long, nice elegance, distinctive phenolics.<br />
8,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€€<br />
90 2019 Roter Riesling trocken<br />
89 2018 »Charta« Riesling<br />
89 2018 Rüdesheim Berg Riesling<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
89 2019 Riesling Kabinett<br />
91 2016 »Quercus« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
90 2017 Assmannshausen Frankenthal<br />
Spätburgunder Erste Lage trocken<br />
89 2019 Winkel Riesling trocken<br />
Finely balanced nose with apricot and peach, also citrus<br />
fruit and some spice. Fresh Riesling with a slender structure<br />
and lively acidity, showing the advantages of the grape<br />
variety in an intricate way, playful and spicy, again with fine<br />
yellow fruit. 12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
446 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Rheingau | WINERIES<br />
<br />
SEKTKELLEREI BARDONG<br />
Bahnstrasse 7, 65366 Geisenheim<br />
T: +49 (6722) 47136, info@bardong.de<br />
www.bardong.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Norbert Bardong<br />
Contact: Renate and Norbert Bardong<br />
Many of Renate and Norbert Bardong’s<br />
Sekts are incredibly delicious and<br />
animating and give the impression of<br />
time travel to the early days of German sparkling<br />
wine. The Riesling “Reserve” from the<br />
1991 vintage takes us almost 30 years back,<br />
no less, and it is quite easy to find yourself<br />
pleasantly fast-forwarded to the present with<br />
its lively nature. This Sekt manufacturer<br />
opened its doors in 1984 and has been true to<br />
its style ever since. The Sekts are lively but also<br />
imbued with a certain texture – which makes<br />
them the perfect accompaniment to food.<br />
Please continue with the good work!<br />
93 2001 »Reserve« Riesling brut<br />
Light golden with greenish reflections. Herbaceous aroma,<br />
mint and lemon balm, coriander seed, some peach. On the<br />
palate; delicate, slightly evolved, but nevertheless also<br />
full-bodied, rich in nuance, juicy, very fine mousse, a delicate<br />
ripeness in all components. 13 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
92 2015 Chardonnay brut<br />
93 1991 »Reserve« Riesling brut<br />
Golden in colour. Multi-layered on the nose, slightly tertiary,<br />
freshly cut apple. On the palate concentrated, lively,<br />
long-lasting acidity, very fine, already slightly receding<br />
mousse, spicily unfurled Riesling fruit, mineral background.<br />
Exquisite. 12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€€€<br />
93 2013 Erbach Honigberg Riesling extra brut<br />
Complex aroma, yellow-fruited Riesling, peach, but also<br />
slightly iodine tones. On the palate there is ripe, plump<br />
late-harvest fruit, peppery terroir notes, delicate sweetness,<br />
fine but also dynamic mousse. A very elaborate sparkling<br />
Riesling. 12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
92 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon brut<br />
Very concentrated on the nose with juniper and cassis. On<br />
the palate, powerful tannins, firmly gripping with admirable<br />
astringency, perceptible mineral notes, palate-filling<br />
mousse, supporting acidity. Very unusual sparkling wine - but<br />
quite coherent. 12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
92 2015 Geisenheim Mönchspfad<br />
Weissburgunder brut<br />
Intense berry aroma, redcurrant, in the style of a Pinot<br />
Noir, also a slightly “noble sweet” undertone. Full and rich<br />
on the palate, the firm acid backbone provides structure<br />
and movement, medium-fine mousse, concentrated finish<br />
fruit. Generous Pinot sparkling wine. 12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
447
WEIN- UND SEKTGUT BARTH<br />
Bergweg 20, 65347 Eltville-Hattenheim<br />
T: +49 (6723) 2514, mail@weingut-barth.de<br />
www.weingut-barth.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 14–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 11–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Sarah Broschart<br />
Contact: Mark Barth<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 150,000 (83 % white, 17 % red)/20 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
Sekt is Mark Barth’s enduring passion. As<br />
a member of the VDP’s steering committee<br />
on Sekt he was instrumental in creating<br />
their Sekt statute. In the past year, he also<br />
officially took over the Wein- and Sektgut in<br />
Eltville-Hattenheim which he now runs with<br />
his wife Christine. For us, his top wines were<br />
the two brut nature Sekts from the Hattenheimer<br />
Schützenhaus. The only wine that<br />
trumps these two is the Riesling TBA from<br />
2010 – it captured us with its electrifying acidity<br />
and silky charm. Excellent!<br />
94 2014 Hattenheim Schützenhaus<br />
Riesling brut nature<br />
Sparkling bright in the glasss, fine cool nose of white berries,<br />
also minerality, still fresh on the nose. Further fine freshness<br />
on the palate with delicate, elegant ripe tones, poised by the<br />
balanced mousse. Very well done and very special!<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, DIAM, €€€<br />
creamy on the palate, a backbone of electrifying acidity,<br />
enormously fresh, very young on the palate. Traditional<br />
Rheingau at its best. 8 Vol.-%, glass, €€€€<br />
91 2018 »Singularis« Riesling Barrique<br />
92 2014 Hattenheim Hassel<br />
Riesling brut nature<br />
Sunny yellow in the glasss with beautiful reflections, the typical<br />
Riesling scent on the nose and the elegant kerosene<br />
nose, very fine. More tart on the palate than the Schützenhaus,<br />
in 2014, - rather the little brother. Not quite as elegant,<br />
but finely salty and smoky. 12,5 Vol.-%, DIAM, €€€€<br />
91 2019 Hallgarten Schönhell Riesling GG<br />
Delicate scent of honey, mirabelle plums, sour cherries,<br />
white flowers and also lilac. On the palate juicy with firm<br />
acidity, but also rich sweetness, tight construction, smoky<br />
flint notes, mineral tinge, pleasant astringency, elegant and<br />
long finish. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€€<br />
95 2010 Hallgarten Schönhell<br />
Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese<br />
Golden in colour, ripe spicy aroma, dried apples, cardamom,<br />
chamomile, dried orange peel, allspice, apricot. Silky and<br />
89 2019 Hattenheim Schützenhaus Riesling<br />
trocken Erste Lage<br />
Delicate light green reflections in the glass. Cool, fragrant<br />
nose with aromas of yellow and citrus fruit. Fresh, with texture<br />
on the palate, delicate aromas of white berries and<br />
citrus fruits, nice, dry, yet juicy acidity with a crunchy finish.<br />
Young and with merit. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
448 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Rheingau | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT HANS BAUSCH<br />
Waldbachstrasse 103, 65347 Hattenheim<br />
T: +49 (6723) 999203, info@weingut-hans-bausch.de<br />
www.weingut-hans-bausch.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Sundays 9–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Hans Bausch<br />
Contact: Hans Bausch<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 70,000 (85 % white, 15 % red)/16 ha<br />
Down to earth, no-frills, straight up. This<br />
is how Weingut Hans Bausch describes<br />
itself. What we can add: when you read<br />
Bausch on the label, there is 100% Bausch in<br />
the bottle. This is honest winemaking craft,<br />
without big experimentation or avant-gardist<br />
ambitions. Among the dry wines, it is the well<br />
balanced Grosses Gewächs from the Engelmannsberg<br />
site that is very convincing. Among<br />
the residual sweet wines, the substantial<br />
Spätlese from the Wisselbrunnen site shows<br />
everything that the 2019 vintage made possible.<br />
We must note that within a Rheingau context,<br />
the prices are incredibly reasonable.<br />
90 2019 »Rheingau Grosses Gewächs«<br />
Hattenheim Engelmannsberg Riesling tr.<br />
The "Rheingau Grosse Gewächs"" has a lot to offer: powerful<br />
aroma of ripe apricot and mirabelle plum. On the palate good<br />
substance and also density, lots of juice and texture,<br />
well-balanced and with fine mineral spice. Consistent with<br />
good length. 12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
forming a harmonious combination. Generous and with good<br />
substance. Good potential for further maturity;<br />
still youthful. 8 Vol.-%, cork, €<br />
87 2019 Spätburgunder Rosé<br />
89 2019 »1 PS« Hattenheim Rheingarten<br />
Riesling feinherb<br />
Ripe apple on the nose, herbal notes and mirabelle plum, yellow<br />
flowers and caramel. Soft and supple opening with<br />
sweet fruit and restrained acidity; coherent and well rounded,<br />
fine spice provides further interest.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
88 2019 Hattenheim Riesling trocken<br />
Ripe stone fruit on the nose; peach and yellow blossom, also<br />
ripe yellow apple and some white nougat. Juicy and with ripe<br />
fruit on the palate. Generous and with texture, ripe acidity<br />
and noticeable sweetness, underlaid with spice. Elegant and<br />
with potential for development. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
91 2019 Hattenheim Wisselbrunnen<br />
Riesling Spätlese<br />
Lots of ripe sweet fruit - mango and papaya dominate the picture.<br />
Full-bodied on the palate with sweet fruit and ripe acidity<br />
89 2019 Hattenheim Schützenhaus<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Apple and apricot kernel in the powerful aroma, floral<br />
notes and some leafy green hints. Juicy, with texture on<br />
the palate, the noticeable residual sweetness is accompanied<br />
by a ripe acidity, nice spiciness, mineral hints, good<br />
substance. A well-executed classic.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
449
WEINGUT KONRAD BERG & SOHN<br />
Niederwaldstrasse 23, 65385 Assmannshausen<br />
T: +49 (6722) 49990, info@altebauernschaenke.de<br />
www.altebauernschaenke.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Peter Perabo<br />
Contact: Konrad Berg<br />
Hectares: 2 ha<br />
The Berg family has run this old farmhouse<br />
inn for more than fifty years.<br />
Their hotel and restaurant business<br />
also includes an estate with two hectares of<br />
vines in the sites of Lorcher Pfaffenwies and<br />
Krone, in the Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg<br />
and the Assmannshäuser Höllenberg. Peter<br />
Perabo, the well-known Rheingau oenologist,<br />
advises the family when it comes to vineyard<br />
and cellar. We were captured by this magnificent<br />
range of wines with its finely balanced<br />
Rieslings and the site-specific Spätburgunders.<br />
A great discovery and a real insider tip!<br />
92 2019 Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg<br />
Riesling Spätlese trocken<br />
Finely woven nose with notes of apple (Granny Smith), apricot,<br />
herbs and hot stone. On the palate there is good energy and<br />
traction, ripe acidity, medium substance, fine astringency and<br />
mineral hue. Good balance between the elements. Shows its<br />
provenance. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
93 2015 Assmannshäuser Höllenberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Concentrated nose with lots of cassis and a fine barrel note,<br />
spicy, herbal and mineral. Concentrated on the palate as well<br />
and there is good substance, much extract, spice, the ripeness<br />
of the warm year combined with the mineral character of the<br />
site. Already impressive. 14 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
93 2013 Assmannshäuser Höllenberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Fine, mature Pinot nose with balsamic spice, earthy tones,<br />
cassis, blood orange and mineral notes. Soft and elegant. On<br />
the palate there is integrated acidity and beautiful spice, ripe<br />
tannin. The minerality is the key to the greatness of the wine,<br />
without pomp. 13,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
93 2009 Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg<br />
Riesling Auslese<br />
Fine, ripe nose of saffron and sour cherries, some petrol. On<br />
the palate the wonderful sweetness of a crème brulée, juicy<br />
acidity with plump buffering, light marine and iodine notes. Incredibly<br />
gluggable and with a very long finish.<br />
12 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
91 2019 Lorcher Pfaffwies Riesling<br />
Spätlese trocken<br />
90 2018 Lorcher Bodenthal Riesling feinherb<br />
90 2015 Lorcher Pfaffwies<br />
Riesling Spätlese trocken<br />
92 2018 Assmannshäuser Höllenberg S<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
92 2016 Assmannshäuser Höllenberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
92 2015 Lorcher Bodenthal-Steinberg<br />
Riesling Auslese<br />
92 2019 Riesling vom Schiefer<br />
91 2018 Lorcher Pfaffenwies Riesling<br />
Spätlese trocken<br />
Ripe apricot on the nose, yellow flowers and apple, also<br />
mango and slate and spicy notes. Opens with a juicy acidity<br />
on the palate and pure apple fruit, well-balanced and with<br />
a smooth flow, fine astringency and mineral spiciness, elegance<br />
and style. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
450 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Rheingau | WINERIES<br />
<br />
BISCHÖFLICHES WEINGUT<br />
RÜDESHEIM<br />
Marienthaler Strasse 3, 65385 Rüdesheim<br />
T: +49 (6722) 910560, info@bischoefliches-weingut.de<br />
www.bischoefliches-weingut.de<br />
Cellar Door: Wednesdays through Fridays 14–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Peter Perabo<br />
Contact: Peter Perabo, Silke Trick,<br />
Betty Enchelmaier-Tietz<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 50,000 (75 % white, 25 % red)/9 ha<br />
It is really hard to explain why this estate<br />
still flies below the radar – since what they<br />
deliver is truly extraordinary. They hold<br />
parcels in the best sites and in the very best<br />
Rheingau tradition, as much devotion is lavished<br />
on Riesling as on Spätburgunder.<br />
Both of these flagship varieties come with a<br />
real signature style and are characterised by<br />
clarity and freshness. That this is down to the<br />
meticulousness of cellar master Peter Perabo<br />
and his team is evident. Perhaps they work according<br />
to the words of Saint Hildegard of<br />
Bingen: “Wine heals and pleases man.”<br />
93 2019 Rüdesheim Berg Schlossberg<br />
Katerloch Riesling trocken<br />
Shattered rock on the nose, plus complex fruit, blood orange,<br />
peppery notes, and balsamic tones. The palate has vibrant<br />
energy, is dense, substantial, supple, intensely mineral in its<br />
texture and has very concise acidity. Pithy, still very young.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
94 2017 »S« Rüdesheim Pinot Noir trocken<br />
Toasty oak, smoke and also some elderberry rise, almost<br />
ethereally, from the glasss. On the palate, there is some<br />
creamy vanilla, which complements the firm, finest tannins<br />
well. Excellent acidity offers proper backbone. Real class.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
92 2017 Assmannshausen Pinot Noir trocken<br />
A hint of black elderberry resonates fragrantly on the cherry<br />
nose together with smoke. On the palate, the fruit is fine,<br />
ripe, supple and pure. The finest tannins are taut and wonderfully<br />
firm, giving the wine its graceful structure. Very<br />
good. 13 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
93 2017 Rüdesheim Riesling Auslese<br />
An extremely delicious wine, with genuinely noble botrytis<br />
spice plus candied fruit in the background. On the palate<br />
there is tangy, dense acidity and some texture with medium<br />
viscosity. Restrained sweetness here, rather than an<br />
over-concentrated and extremely sweet Auslese.<br />
9 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
92 2019 »Episcopus« Rüdesheim<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
92 2018 Rüdesheim Berg Rottland<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 »A Priori« Riesling trocken<br />
89 2018 »Laudate« Rüdesheim<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 Blanc de Noir Spätburgunder trocken<br />
90 2017 Rüdesheim Pinot Noir trocken<br />
93 2019 »1960« Rüdesheim Berg Rottland<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Clear, fresh and complex on the nose: fresh citrus zest,<br />
blood orange and hints of spice. On the palate, full-bodied,<br />
powerful, fine phenolics, firm but ripe acidity. This is a distinctive<br />
'terroir' wine with depth, and made for long ageing<br />
and development of its complexity. 12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
451
WEINGUT GEORG BREUER<br />
Geisenheimer Strasse 9, 65385 Rüdesheim am Rhein<br />
T: +49 (6722) 1027, info@georg-breuer.com<br />
www.georg-breuer.com<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Hermann Schmoranz and Markus Lundén<br />
Contact: Theresa Breuer<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 250,000 (90 % white, 10 % red)/34 ha<br />
Farming: in transition to organic<br />
This year, Theresa Breuer presents us with<br />
a fireworks display from the Rüdesheimer<br />
Berg: the 2019 wines from Berg Rottland<br />
and Schlossberg show themselves with<br />
such ripe fruit, and such subtle and fine texture.<br />
This can only happen when a highly impressive<br />
site and a very talented winemaker coincide.<br />
Her 2016 Riesling from Berg Roseneck shines<br />
with an almost timeless stillness. The counterpoint,<br />
ever since the takeover of Weingut Altenkirch,<br />
is no longer represented just by the wines<br />
from Rauenthal – now there is Lorch, too: the<br />
Riesling from the Pfaffenwies site immediately<br />
captured the hearts of all our tasters.<br />
95 2019 Rüdesheim Berg Schlossberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Initial expression on the nose has undertones of vine peach,<br />
grape and candied orange peel. On the palate, silky with lively,<br />
finely chiselled acidity, with delicious sweetness and vivid<br />
fruit. Moderate alcohol, subtle minerality, immense finely-derived<br />
extract. 12 Vol.-%, cork, €€€€<br />
93 2019 Lorch Pfaffenwies<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Starting with warm tones of chamomile and almond, then<br />
rather floral, light notes on the palate. Wonderfully integrated<br />
acidity, dense extract, light and deft in the mouth, has tension<br />
and drive, with an unbelievable ageing potential.<br />
12 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
89 2019 »Estate« Lorch Riesling trocken<br />
94 2016 Rüdesheim Berg Roseneck<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
A wine that offers very ripe yellow fruit aromas which are<br />
perfectly supported by the still-lively acidity. Tension and<br />
composure united in an impressive Riesling that still has potential<br />
to mature. 12 Vol.-%, cork, €€€€<br />
94 2019 Rüdesheim Berg Rottland<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Concise nose reminiscent of ripe pineapple. On the palate,<br />
hints of green tea and ripe tropical fruits. All is held together<br />
by ripe acidity and fine, gentle minerality. A Riesling that already<br />
shows length and tension. 12 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
91 2019 »Terra Montosa« Riesling trocken<br />
On the nose, vine peach and light rose notes with some<br />
spice. On the palate, clear, crunchy acidity and an animating<br />
minerality. A wonderful blend of precise fruit and mineral<br />
depth. 12 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
452 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Rheingau | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT STEFAN BREUER<br />
Auf der grossen Strasse 10, 65345 Eltville am Rhein<br />
T: +49 (6722) 4024880, sb@breuer-wein.de<br />
www.breuer-wein.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Stefan Breuer<br />
Contact: Stefan Breuer<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 100,000 (80 % white, 20 % red)/10 ha<br />
It was in 2006 that Stefan Breuer founded<br />
his estate in Eltville with one hectare of<br />
vines. By now, his ten hectares of vines are<br />
almost all in the Selz valley – across the Rhine<br />
in Rheinhessen. His top site is the Rüdesheimer<br />
Berg with up to 40-year-old Rieslings. The<br />
winery, however, is still in the Rheingau. Apart<br />
from Riesling, Breuer also grows Grauburgunder,<br />
Sauvignon Blanc, Weissburgunder,<br />
Muskateller, Merlot, Früh- and Spätburgunder.<br />
Breuer makes accessible wines of which<br />
we liked his Grauburgunder “Glanzstück”<br />
best!<br />
89 2018 »Meisterstück« Gross-Winternheim<br />
Bockstein Riesling Erste Lage trocken<br />
On the nose bright yellow fruit, petrol, dark spice, and underneath:<br />
clear limestone minerality. Juicy fruit, supple with<br />
fine tannic grip, pronounced fruitiness, dark, ripe notes. Complemented<br />
by fine traction and delicately mineral acid freshness<br />
towards the back. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
herbs and herbal components. Subtle juice, still some drying<br />
tannin, fine etherealness and cherry fruit on the finish.<br />
13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
87 2019 »S3B3 Handwerk« Selztal<br />
Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
88 2019 »W3 Handwerk« Selztal<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
On the nose bright fruit including apricot and yellow apple,<br />
fine minerality. Juicy and supple on the palate, sweet pear,<br />
apple and ripe citrus notes. A little purer and stonier towards<br />
the back; still a certain fruit sweetness on the finish.<br />
12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
88 2017 »Glanzstück« Selztal Merlot trocken<br />
Deep, dark cherry, plum, ivy and dark spice on the nose. On<br />
the palate there is fluency and juice. Powerfully-built with<br />
structure, dark fruit, herbal nuances and slightly astringent<br />
tannin, as well as a discreet bitter note on the finish.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
88 2017 »Glanzstück« Ingelheim Schlossberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Dark cherry and berries, deep, spicy, a touch of dry wood<br />
notes. Dark spice on the palate, some sour cherry, tar, tart<br />
90 2018 »G1 Glanzstück« Selztal<br />
Grauburgunder Spätlese trocken<br />
Nuanced, deep, compact and weightless with well-integrated<br />
wood. Fine nuttiness, deliciously juicy stone fruit.<br />
On the palate, supple with a subtle structure, gentle and<br />
multi-layered. Fine, pronounced fruitiness complemented<br />
by fine tannin and acid structure. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
453
WEINGUT CHAT SAUVAGE<br />
SCHULZ & SCHÖTTLE GBR<br />
Hohlweg 23, 65366 Johannisberg<br />
T: +49 (6722) 9372586, pinot@chat-sauvage.de<br />
www.chat-sauvage.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Verena Schöttle<br />
Contact: Verena Schöttle<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 25,000 (20 % white, 80 % red)/8 ha<br />
There have been no changes at our estate<br />
since last year,” Verena Schöttle and<br />
Günter Schulz have us know. For an estate<br />
at this quality level, this is truly good<br />
news. And indeed, once again and as in previous<br />
years, their Chardonnay “Clos de Schulz”<br />
takes the title of Rheingau’s most atypical<br />
wine – simply because it is so Burgundian. As<br />
always with the Pinot Noirs, you have the<br />
choice between the mineral bite of the Lorch<br />
sites and the generosity of the Rüdesheim sites<br />
– or the finely tuned balance of “Le Schulz”.<br />
Please continue!<br />
94 2017 »Clos de Schulz« Chardonnay trocken<br />
Discreet wood spice, aniseed biscuit and pepper, wormwood,<br />
but then also butter and yellow fruit. Powdery tannins, tight<br />
body, dense, supple and firmness is closely interwoven; concentrated<br />
acidity, pithy, and clearly perceptible mineral finish.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
91 2017 »Selection Schulz« Pinot Noir trocken<br />
94 2017 Rüdesheim Drachenstein Pinot Noir tr.<br />
Wild cherry, blood, iron, blackcurrant and redcurrant. Immense<br />
density, powerful and delicate simultaneously, firm,<br />
palpable mineral, ripe but with sufficient acidity, and some<br />
creaminess in the background. Has long ageing potential.<br />
14 Vol.-%, cork, €€€€<br />
94 2017 Lorch Schlossberg Pinot Noir trocken<br />
Ethereal scent, juniper, tree resin, dark raspberry, discreet<br />
wood. On the palate there is extract, mellow-grainy tannins,<br />
a backbone of acid, but also enough fruit to turn the structure<br />
into fullness. Dense, long, immensely young.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€€€<br />
93 2017 »Le Schulz« Pinot Noir trocken<br />
Strong new wood, raspberry and tree resin on the nose. On<br />
the palate a dense but also mellow tannin texture, slightly<br />
drying tannins, firm acid backbone, plump body, obvious vivid<br />
minerality. It is refined, rich in extract and elegant at the<br />
same time. 14 Vol.-%, cork, €€€€<br />
93 2017 Rüdesheim Pinot Noir trocken<br />
Wild cherry, black pepper, stony mineral notes, closed red<br />
berry aromas. On the palate there is immense tannin texture,<br />
yet everything is fine and mellow, lots of juiciness and<br />
a delicious mineral note in the background. Stylish; will<br />
age excellently. 14 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
454 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Rheingau | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT DR. CORVERS-KAUTER<br />
Rheingaustrasse 129, 65375 Oestrich-Winkel<br />
T: +49 (6723) 2614, info@corvers-kauter.de<br />
www.corvers-kauter.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Matthias Corvers<br />
Contact: Matthias and Brigitte Corvers<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 180,000 (85 % white, 15 % red)/31 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
At first sight, it may seem surprising that<br />
there is not a single dry Riesling that<br />
made it onto the podium of the four<br />
highest scoring wines. That, however, can in<br />
no way be construed against them: these<br />
Rieslings simply had to give way to the superior<br />
wines in the stupendous range which Dr.<br />
Matthias Corvers and his son Philipp presented.<br />
They lack neither class nor luminosity.<br />
Apart from the excellent noble sweet Rieslings,<br />
we were also deeply impressed by the<br />
mineral-driven Spätburgunder from the Höllenberg<br />
site. These are wines oenophiles are<br />
talking about!<br />
93 2018 Assmannshausen Höllenberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Wild berries, liquorice and spices form a lively aromatic introduction<br />
on the nose. Also mineral hints, stone. Complex<br />
structure on the palate with a lot going on. Well-judged substance,<br />
fine-veined acidity, clearly marked by minerality.<br />
Long-lasting. 13,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€€€<br />
97 2019 Erbach Marcobrunn Riesling TBA<br />
Date, apricot compote on the nose, also a hint of ester. On the<br />
palate, enormously creamy and unctious onset, followed by<br />
an ultra-fine mineral extract. Impressive how all components<br />
are interwoven, homogeneous and almost endlessly long.<br />
Great wine, great future. 6 Vol.-%, glass, €€€€<br />
96 2019 Rauenthal Baiken Riesling TBA<br />
The aroma reveals dates, meat juices, coarsely ground coffee<br />
and dried pears. On the palate very creamy, viscous and<br />
almost oily. Juicy acidity, razor-sharp on the palate, salty<br />
notes, ends oily again and almost with quite a grip at the end.<br />
Still has a long way to go. 6 Vol.-%, glass, €€€€<br />
95 2019 Hattenheim Mannberg Riesling TBA<br />
Almost closed on the nose, citrus, lemon balm, rosemary, but<br />
also dates, a little mineral. Oily on the palate, then very elegantly<br />
integrated acidity, silky sweetness, grippy and substantial on the<br />
finish, herbs, juicy, fine, elegant style. 6 Vol.-%, glass, €€€€<br />
92 2019 Rüdesheim Berg Rottland Riesling tr.<br />
92 2019 Erbach Marcobrunn Riesling trocken<br />
92 2019 Rüdesheim Berg Roseneck Riesling tr.<br />
92 2019 Rauenthal Baiken Riesling trocken<br />
92 2019 Rüdesheim Berg Schlossberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
92 2018 Rüdesheim Drachenstein<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
91 2019 Oestrich Doosberg Riesling Spätlese<br />
89 2019 »R3 Remastered« Rheingau<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Inviting aroma with some facets from the citrus family and<br />
also herbal spectrum, apple and yellow stone fruit.<br />
Straightforward on the palate with taut, mouthwatering<br />
acidity and mineral grip. Good fun to drink, a nice introduction<br />
to the world of Riesling. 12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
455
WEINGUT DIEFENHARDT<br />
Hauptstrasse 9–11, 65344 Eltville-Martinsthal<br />
T: +49 (6123) 71490, weingut@diefenhardt.de<br />
www.diefenhardt.de<br />
Cellar Door: Tuesdays through Saturdays 10–12 hrs<br />
and 14–20 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Julia and Peter Seyffardt<br />
Contact: Julia Seyffardt<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 100,000 (85 % white, 15 % red)/18 ha<br />
Weingut Diefenhardt cultivates<br />
eighteen hectares of vines in the<br />
steep sites of Rauenthal and Martinsthal<br />
– a large portion of the Martinsthaler<br />
Berg is in the family’s possession where two<br />
generations share responsibilities: Peter Seyffardt<br />
and his daughter Julia, a Geisenheim<br />
graduate who sets increasingly strong accents.<br />
This is especially true for the finely balanced<br />
Pinot Noirs for which the young winemaker<br />
also sought inspiration in Burgundy. The Rieslings,<br />
too, bear her signature, like the dense<br />
Grosse Gewächs that was matured in large<br />
barrel. More please!<br />
92 2019 Martinsthal Schlenzenberg<br />
Riesling GG<br />
Straw yellow with light green reflections, still youthfully<br />
closed on the nose, smoky and distinctive. On the palate<br />
there is good, crunchy acidity, dense minerality, discreet<br />
sweetness. Everything still very youthful and closed, nice<br />
grapefruit aftertaste. Needs time! 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€€<br />
peach and also herbs. Delicious and delicate sweetness on<br />
the palate, incredibly juicy with refreshing acidity, sensitively<br />
balanced. Great fruity Spätlese! 7,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 Martinsthal Wildsau<br />
Riesling Erste Lage trocken<br />
90 2019 Rauenthal Rothenberg<br />
Riesling Erste Lage trocken<br />
Bright in the glass, yellow stone fruit on the nose, also floral<br />
hints, some green leaf. Lean and tightly built on the palate, juicy,<br />
light notes of white flowers, well-balanced acidity and mineral<br />
tones. Refreshing and elegant. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 Martinsthal Wildsau<br />
Pinot Noir Erste Lage trocken<br />
Looks almost unfiltered, blackberry, red berry nose, fresh<br />
and juicy, also cherry and fine spice. Slightly tangy on the palate,<br />
blackberry here too, wood well integrated, gets juicier<br />
and rounder with time, slightly animalistic hints, long on the<br />
palate. 13 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
92 2019 Martinsthal Langenberg<br />
Riesling Spätlese<br />
Delicate, light green reflections in the glasss, fine honey<br />
scent on the nose, also yellow stone fruit, fine notes of vine<br />
90 2019 »Alte Reben J.D.« Martinsthal<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Mineral and also slightly herbal nose, with smoke and<br />
stone fruit, apple, peach and almond. On the palate a nice<br />
juicy acidity (the fine sweetness suits it well) spicy, slender<br />
construction, mineral notes, long finish with pleasing<br />
freshness. 12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
456 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT EGERT<br />
Rheingau | WINERIES<br />
Erbacher Landstrasse 22, 65347 Eltville am Rhein<br />
T: +49 (6723) 5557, weingut.egert@t-online.de<br />
www.weingut-egert.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Manfred Egert<br />
Contact: Manfred Egert<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 50,000 (100 % white)/9 ha<br />
This wine contains 100 per cent love and<br />
passion,” so reads the motto of the<br />
Egert family on the back label of their<br />
wines. And we are pleased to confirm that they<br />
actually make this happen. Manfred Egert<br />
makes his finely fruited Rieslings with style<br />
and a fine sweetness and acid interplay from<br />
nine hectares of vines across the villages of<br />
Mittelheim, Oestrich and Hattenheim – 85%<br />
of them are classified as Erste Lage. The dry<br />
Spätlese “Hommage à Jean” - offers substance<br />
and elegance. The Sekt is made in a purist style,<br />
spicy and mineral. Fabulous!<br />
91 2019 »Hommage à Jean« Hattenheim<br />
Wisselbrunnen Riesling Spätlese trocken<br />
Yellow blossom, flower meadow, grapefruit, ripe apple and<br />
mango on the nose. Shows good substance and balance,<br />
grapefruit contributes a tart freshness, the acidity is ripe and<br />
resilient, the fine sweetness fits well. A Spätlese with style<br />
and consistency. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
power and ripeness, clear fruit. Spice and sweet fruit complement<br />
each other. Spätlese, which is also well suited to accompany<br />
food. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 Oestrich Doosberg<br />
Riesling Kabinett trocken<br />
90 2019 Kiedrich Sandgrub<br />
Weissburgunder Spätlese trocken<br />
White flowers on the nose, mirabelle pear and ripe citrus<br />
fruit, apple and cinnamon. Full-bodied with texture on the<br />
palate, has power displayed in precise structure. Ripe and<br />
vivid acid structure, good volume. Spätlese, which deserves<br />
its name, will pair well with food. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 Erbach Siegelsberg<br />
Riesling Spätlese feinherb<br />
Ripe fruit such as mango and peach on the nose, fine herbal<br />
spice and a little yeast, also peel of citrus fruit. Juicy and<br />
with a lot of texture on the palate, ripe acidity, nice sweetness-acidity<br />
interplay with notes of grapefruit. Precise and<br />
elegant. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 Rosé Spätburgunder Spätlese tr.<br />
Aromas of raspberry, strawberry and garden herbs, also<br />
peach. Good density on the palate, shows freshness, but also<br />
91 2018 »Schwarze Linie«<br />
Riesling brut nature<br />
Straightforward, direct and purist sparkling Riesling that<br />
smells of peach and apple. Does without kitsch and compromises.<br />
Spicy and also mineral, shows the Rheingau terroir<br />
in sparkling fashion; taut acidity, fine mousse, clear orientation.<br />
13 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
457
WINZER VON ERBACH<br />
Ringstrasse 28, 65346 Erbach im Rheingau<br />
T: +49 (6123) 62414, info@winzer-von-erbach.de<br />
www.winzer-von-erbach.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 10–12 hrs and<br />
13–18 hrs, Saturdays 10–13 hrs<br />
Kellermeister: Steve Eberding<br />
Contact: Ronald Müller-Hagen<br />
Hectares: 33 ha<br />
It is the first time that Winzer von Erbach<br />
are featured here, a co-op with 31 members.<br />
They harvest mainly Riesling and<br />
Spätburgunder on 33 hectares of vines across<br />
Erbach, Kiedrich and Rauenthal. Painstaking<br />
work in the vineyards, lays the foundation for<br />
healthy and aromatic grapes. “Small but exquisite<br />
is our motto,” this cooperative reports<br />
and hits the nail on the head. We tasted a sophisticated<br />
range of wines with a very appetising<br />
sparkling Riesling, a fine TBA and a formidable<br />
Pinot Noir. A strong debut!<br />
89 2019 Erbach Steinmorgen<br />
Riesling Kabinett feinherb<br />
Citrus fruit, candied lemon peel, a neat, fresh aroma. Lean<br />
and typical for a Kabinett on the palate: restrained sweetness<br />
and a lively acid backbone, accompanied by minerality.<br />
A wonderfully juicy, sophisticated Kabinett.<br />
11 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
again, sultana, densely woven structure, texture, good<br />
length. Will have a long life. 6,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€€€<br />
87 2019 Rosé feinherb<br />
89 2019 Cabernet Blanc<br />
Quite clear on the nose: elderflower, mint, paprika. Balanced<br />
on the palate, ripe acidity, discreet fruit-supporting sweetness,<br />
a harmonious example of the variety, not greenish, yet<br />
fresh. Finally, a lot of juiciness and even a little texture.<br />
12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
91 2015 Pinot Noir Auslese trocken<br />
Some roasted coffee on the nose, fig compote, candied cherry<br />
and caramel. On the palate there is fine energy, a creamy<br />
base and a rich dose of fine-grained tannins. Full-bodied with<br />
ripe acidity, good harmony and full of potential due to its noble<br />
extract. 15 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
91 2015 Erbach Honigberg<br />
Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese<br />
Honey yellow, clear. On the nose dried fruits, sultanas, baked<br />
fruit, spice, forest floor, fir honey, spice. On the palate very<br />
concise sweetness, rather restrained acidity, dried fruits<br />
90 2018 Riesling extra brut<br />
Discreetly yeasty, a little lemon balm, citrus, fresh and<br />
spicy. On the palate it starts smoothly, with quite fine<br />
mousse and fine acidity. A very appetising sparkling Riesling<br />
from the Rheingau; pleasingly dry and yet not harsh.<br />
Picture-perfect. 12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
458 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Rheingau | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT AUGUST ESER<br />
Friedensplatz 19, 65375 Oestrich-Winkel<br />
T: +49 (6723) 5032, mail@eser-wein.de<br />
www.eser-wein.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–12 hrs and<br />
13– 17 hrs, Saturdays 9–12 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Désirée Eser Freifrau zu Knyphausen<br />
Contact: Désirée Eser Freifrau zu Knyphausen and<br />
Dodo Freiherr zu Knyphausen<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 70,000 (90 % white, 10 % red)/11 ha<br />
Weingut August Eser, now run by the<br />
tenth generation of the family, Désirée<br />
Eser Freifrau zu Knyphausen<br />
and her husband Dodo, once again shows total<br />
Riesling competence – and successfully interprets<br />
two of the Rheingau’s sites: the Kabinett<br />
from the Lenchen site is of elegant character,<br />
the delicious Spätlese from the Doosberg is<br />
dense and mineral. These are Rieslings with<br />
potential which will bring joy for years to<br />
come – like the powerful and phenolic “W”, a<br />
very individual wine. Beyond that, we also recommend<br />
the sparkling wines and Spätburgunder.<br />
A strong, multi-faceted range of wines.<br />
91 2018 Erbach Siegelsberg Riesling Spätlese<br />
Finely intricate nose with apricot, mango and grated lemon<br />
peel, herbs and caramel. Juicy, supple and also profound on<br />
the palate, the acidity is deliciously integrated, phenolic<br />
tartness and citrus fruit show with fine caramel.<br />
11 Vol.-%, cork<br />
90 2019 Hattenheim Engelmannsberg<br />
Riesling Erste Lage trocken<br />
Mango on the nose, apricot and peach, also apple. On the palate<br />
there is crystalline acidity and phenolic astringency, medium<br />
to firm stature, good extract, delicate acidity. Well-balanced<br />
with mineral spiciness that lingers into the finish.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
91 2015 Mittelheim St. Nikolaus<br />
Spätburgunder Barrique trocken<br />
Cherry and toasted aromas on the powerful and aromatic<br />
bouquet, also some violet, rosehip and smoked bacon. On the<br />
palate, the powerful texture is interspersed with a fine acidic<br />
vein, dry impression, good substance and also length, spice,<br />
further potential. 13,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
93 2019 Oestrich Doosberg Riesling Spätlese<br />
Focused nose with peach, caramelised apricot and apricot<br />
kernel, also herbs and some rosemary. On the palate, the fine<br />
acidity dominates and combines with the beautiful fruit<br />
sweetness. Good density and mineral penetration. Great potential.<br />
9 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
90 2019 Rüdesheim Bischofsberg Riesling<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
90 2017 »L« Riesling trocken<br />
90 2018 »W« Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 Oestrich Lenchen Riesling Kabinett<br />
89 2019 »Vom Aueboden« Winkel<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 Roter Riesling trocken<br />
89 2018 »Charta« Riesling<br />
91 2018 Riesling brut<br />
Ripe apple on the nose, yeasty spice and stone fruit. Taut<br />
on the palate with focused acidity and fine spice, good concentration,<br />
texture, and mineral nerve and grip. A stylish<br />
interpretation of sparkling Riesling with local character<br />
and terroir. 12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
459
WEINGUT JOACHIM FLICK<br />
In der Strassenmühle, 65439 Flörsheim-Wicker<br />
T: +49 (6145) 7686, info@flick-wein.de<br />
www.flick-wein.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 15–19 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–14 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Dirk Bohnensack and Reiner Flick<br />
Contact: Reiner Flick<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 180,000 (92 % white, 8 % red)/20 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
Even if Reiner Flick decided not to show<br />
his Grosse Gewächse from the 2019<br />
vintage, there is much to praise here.<br />
His two Rieslings from his Erste Lagen indicate<br />
the quality of the vintage: the Riesling<br />
from the Hochheimer Königin Victoriaberg<br />
scores with clear fruit, freshness and mineral<br />
verve. In fact, the wines, like the Wicker Riesling,<br />
our tip at a very fair price, all come across<br />
as very present and focused. Among the noble<br />
sweet wines, the Spätlesen show body, texture<br />
and lively finesse. With daughter Katharina<br />
Flick the next generation is already poised.<br />
91 2019 Hochheim Königin Victoriaberg<br />
Riesling Erste Lage trocken<br />
Notes of peach, pear, orange, stone, yet clear and fresh. Very<br />
smooth texture, gentle and soft fruitiness on the palate. The<br />
fine, citrusy acidity weaves itself discreetly into the wine.<br />
Fine bitterness towards the back; mineral, fresh.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 Wicker Nonnberg<br />
Riesling Erste Lage trocken<br />
Aged in barrel, this Riesling shows a round nose of yellow-green<br />
fruit, beautiful herbal spiciness and suppleness.<br />
On the palate it flows easily, then gains more and more citrusy<br />
energy and juicy concentration. Juicy until the finish.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
92 2019 Wicker Nonnberg Riesling Spätlese<br />
Fresh citrus, rosemary, Amalfi lemon. Very clear and fresh.<br />
On the palate, a force of substance and sweetness, quite restrained<br />
acidity, only slowly gaining in pithiness over the<br />
course of the palate. Long finish, fruit-filled, but completely<br />
without primary ostentation. 9 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
91 2019 Hochheim Königin Victoriaberg<br />
Riesling Spätlese Erste Lage<br />
Clear, medium yellow. Rather restrained nose, citrus and<br />
matchstick, apricot kernel, herbs, spice. Sophisticated. On<br />
the palate - texture, lively acidity and well-placed sweetness,<br />
bright fruit, complete with good structure and length. Maturity<br />
potential. Ends on peach blossom.<br />
10,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 Wicker Nonnberg Riesling Kabinett<br />
89 2019 »F. vini et vita« Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 »Classic« Riesling<br />
88 2019 Rosé<br />
90 2019 Hochheim Königin Victoriaberg<br />
Riesling Kabinett<br />
90 2019 Wicker Riesling trocken<br />
Intricate on the nose, apple, bright fruit and blossom, delicious<br />
herbal spice. The palate is more purist and characterised<br />
by calcareous marl with fine minerality, apricot and<br />
citrus fruit as well as beautiful acidity. Great value for<br />
money! 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
460 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT PETER FLICK<br />
Rheingau | WINERIES<br />
Holger-Crafoord-Strasse 4, 65239 Hochheim<br />
T: +49 (6146) 6590, info@wein-vom-flick.de<br />
www.wein-vom-flick.de<br />
Cellar Door: Wednesdays through Fridays 14–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–14 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Peter Flick<br />
Contact: Peter Flick<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 60,000 (85 % white, 15 % red)/8 ha<br />
Weingut Peter Flick was not founded<br />
until summer 2018. After the sudden<br />
death of Emmerich Himmel in<br />
2017, Peter Flick initially assisted Annette<br />
Himmel before taking over the estate at the<br />
tender age of 27. By now Flick has completed<br />
his craftman’s master certificate as Winzer and<br />
wanted to start anew: “Between heaven and<br />
hell,” he says, playing on the name of the<br />
Hochheimer top site Hölle (=hell). “It’s a<br />
damned good site” to start anew. His dense<br />
Spätlese Riesling from the Kostheim site Weiss<br />
Erd proves that we will hear a lot more from<br />
Peter Flick. A remakable new entry!<br />
91 2018 »Grosses Gewächs« Hochheim<br />
Kirchenstück Riesling trocken<br />
Ripe stone fruit, peach kernel, some petrol and beeswax. On<br />
the palate powerfully built with substance and density, spice<br />
and with fine minerality. Classic example of its style. Thickens<br />
on the midpalate, sweet extract and also phenolic. Will<br />
evolve. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
91 2019 »Grosses Gewächs« Wicker<br />
Mönchsgewann Riesling trocken<br />
Ripe bouquet with ripe stone fruit, peach and passion fruit as<br />
well as spices and a slight astringency. Full-bodied on the<br />
palate with good volume and density, slight sweetness, ripe<br />
acidity. Classic and of a high standard. Riesling with good<br />
ageing potential. 13,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 »Stückfass« Hochheim Kirchenstück<br />
Riesling Spätlese trocken<br />
Ripe and full-fruited apricot on the nose, honeydew melon,<br />
also smoke. Full-bodied on the palate, powerfully structured,<br />
generous, juicy and elegant with ripe, neat acidity. Maturation<br />
in wood gives stature, elegant and with finesse. Will continue<br />
to evolve. 13,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 »Alte Reben« Hochheim Kirchenstück<br />
Riesling Spätlese trocken<br />
Stone fruit, passion fruit and also freshly-cut pineapple on the<br />
nose. Spicy on the palate. There is phenolic astringency and<br />
dark tones, clear minerality. The wine testifies to its origin and<br />
age of the vines. Deep and aromatically complex. Medium density.<br />
13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 »Verflickst« Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 Hochheim Hölle Riesling Kabinett tr.<br />
89 2019 »Classic« Riesling<br />
88 2019 Hochheim Riesling Kabinett trocken<br />
88 2019 Wicker Mönchsgewann<br />
Scheurebe feinherb<br />
87 2019 Weissburgunder trocken<br />
87 2019 Wicker Mönchsgewann<br />
Riesling Kabinett trocken<br />
92 2019 Kostheim Weiss Erd Riesling<br />
Spätlese trocken<br />
Complex nose with ripe stone fruit, apricot kernel and<br />
peach, also honeydew melon. On the palate there is good<br />
concentration and density, the smooth texture is underpinned<br />
by spice and minerality. Compact and substantial,<br />
tightly woven. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
461
WEINGUT EVA FRICKE<br />
Elisabethenstrasse 6, 65343 Eltville<br />
T: +49 (6123) 703658, info@evafricke.com<br />
www.evafricke.com<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–12 hrs and<br />
13–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Eva Fricke<br />
Contact: Eva Fricke<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 80,000 (100 % white)/15 ha<br />
Farming: in transition to organic<br />
No, we still love Eva Fricke’s Rieslings<br />
very much – yet, this year it was her<br />
sparkling wine Pinot Noir Rosé brut<br />
nature that surprised us most with its vinous<br />
smoothness. Eva Fricke also presented successful<br />
2019 Rieslings: her Rheingau Riesling<br />
is balanced with aplomb and was turned into<br />
our Falstaff tip. Her Lorcher Riesling sits at<br />
the top and shows drive and mineral tension.<br />
“Mélange” convinces with phenolics and extract.<br />
We can safely say that all these Rieslings<br />
will continue to unfold. We practice patience<br />
and will drink the appetizing sparkling wine in<br />
the meantime.<br />
91 2019 Lorch Riesling trocken<br />
Deep lemon yellow. Clean and precise aroma of yellow apple,<br />
lime and pear. On the palate, the lively acidity carries the fine<br />
aroma of orange blossom, lemon and blackcurrant leaf. A<br />
clearly focused Riesling with a good finish.<br />
12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 Kiedrich Riesling trocken<br />
91 2019 »Mélange« Riesling trocken<br />
Golden yellow in the glass. Subtle nose with scents of mirabelle<br />
plum, apricot and a touch of blackcurrant. On the palate<br />
there is phenolic and extract as well as the above aromas,<br />
complemented by lemon zest and a petrol note. Lively<br />
acidity leads to a good finish. 13 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
90 2019 Lorch Schlossberg Riesling<br />
Golden yellow. Yellow fruit on the nose with a clearly-recognisable<br />
scent of very ripe grapes. On the palate peach, nectarine,<br />
pineapple jam, lime as well as a light petrol note.<br />
Good acidity carries this slightly sweet wine.<br />
12 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
92 2016 Pinot Noir Rosé brut nature<br />
Light pink to onion skin colour, a very fine, quite precise Pinot<br />
scent with red berries and spice. On the palate, supple attack<br />
of acidity, a hint of phenolics, dynamic mousse, that gains<br />
good volume but is not coarse. Extra-crunchy finish. Very vinous.<br />
12 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
90 2019 Rheingau Riesling trocken<br />
On the nose, a scent of fully ripe apple, lemon and lime. On<br />
the palate, the lively acidity balances a versatile aroma of<br />
peach, mandarin and lemon peel. Light minerality in a medium-weight<br />
body takes the wine to a good finish.<br />
8,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
462 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT HÖHN<br />
Rheingau | WINERIES<br />
Freudenbergstrasse 200, 65201 Wiesbaden<br />
T: +49 (611) 7168789, info@weinguthoehn.de<br />
www.weinguthoehn.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 17–19 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Jürgen Höhn<br />
Contact: Jürgen Höhn<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 130,000 (86 % white, 14 % red)/21 ha<br />
The origins of Weingut Höhn can be<br />
traced back to 1696. For a long time it<br />
was run as a mixed farm and today it is<br />
under the management of Jürgen Höhn who<br />
farms almost 21 hectares of vines. In 2017 he<br />
managed to acquire parcels in the Erbacher<br />
Marcobrunn, Hattenheimer Nussbrunnen<br />
and Kiedricher Sandgrub from Weingut Langwerth<br />
von Simmern. All of his wines show<br />
great varietal typicity, his Riesling Kabinett is<br />
playful and animating, the generous Spätlese<br />
from Nussbrunnen is charming, the Spätburgunder<br />
is monumental. An estate with real potential!<br />
88 2019 Eltville Sonnenberg<br />
Riesling Kabinett halbtrocken<br />
Sunflower fields on the nose, ripe stone fruit, apricot and<br />
peach, subtle spiciness. Slenderly-built on the palate, good<br />
varietal typicity, the acidity is ripe but vivid enough to give<br />
structure. Clear expression, fine sweetness, citrus fruit on<br />
the finish. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
acidity. Generous, with fruit expression, medium density, fine<br />
spiciness and also good length and minerality.<br />
7,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
88 2019 Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
88 2019 Chardonnay trocken<br />
Ripe melon on the nose, pear, roasted chestnut, smoke and<br />
herbs. Juicy and spicy on the palate, well-built and compact.<br />
The acidity is ripe, the sweetness pronounced - thus harmoniously<br />
balanced. Pure wine for friends with good taste.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
89 2018 Frauenstein Herrnberg<br />
Spätburgunder Auslese trocken<br />
Concentrated aroma of ripe and cooked plum, blackberry<br />
and cherry, juniper berry, beetroot, toasted aromas. Powerful,<br />
yet soft on the palate with ripe acidity and strong alcohol<br />
which is well-integrated. Monumental wine with a lot of substance<br />
and spice. 15 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
90 2019 Hattenheim Nussbrunnen<br />
Riesling Spätlese<br />
Rich nose with peach and passion fruit, also papaya. Almost<br />
viscous on the palate, nice creaminess, underpinned by a ripe<br />
89 2019 Kiedrich Sandgrub<br />
Riesling Kabinett trocken<br />
Classic Riesling aroma with stone fruit, also some citrus<br />
fruit, apple and floral hints. On the palate, the fresh acidity<br />
and the residual sweetness become a good match. Slenderly<br />
built, lean, citrus fruit again. Harmonious, well-proportioned<br />
Kabinett. 12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
463
DOMÄNE SCHLOSS JOHANNISBERG<br />
Schloss Johannisberg, 65366 Geisenheim-Johannisberg<br />
T: +49 (6722) 70090, info@schloss-johannisberg.de<br />
www.schloss-johannisberg.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 10–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays and Sundays 11–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Gerd Ritter<br />
Contact: Stefan Doktor<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 250,000 (100 % white)/45 ha<br />
Everything is running smoothly on the<br />
Johannisberg.” That was our verdict of<br />
the previous year after we had tasted<br />
the wines from Schloss Johannisberg. This<br />
year there is only one thing we can add: things<br />
are running even more smoothly now: the<br />
enormous efforts of the mangement duo of<br />
Stefan Doktor and Marcel Szopa are paying<br />
off. They invested in a new press house, hired<br />
Michael Städter as viticulturist and Gerd Ritter<br />
as cellar master – and both understand<br />
their craft. A stupendous range of wine with<br />
finely nuanced Rieslings. A huge compliment!<br />
94 2017 »Goldlack« Johannisberg Schloss<br />
Johannisberger Riesling trocken<br />
Gentle, fluid and with depth, fine phenolics, minerality and<br />
subtle tension. On the palate, finely concentrated yellow<br />
fruit, dark spicy nuances, citrus freshness. Has individual<br />
character with both subtlety and substance, juice, tension,<br />
saltiness, finest tannins and finesse. 12,5 Vol.-%, cork<br />
93 2019 »Silberlack« Johannisberg Schloss<br />
Johannisberger Riesling GG<br />
Balance and complexity; quite a statement here. Structure<br />
and fine spice, with yellow fruit, red apple, herbs. Peach and<br />
citrus fruit on the palate - balance and fluidity, firm acid grip,<br />
juiciness, zest. Balanced, concentrated Riesling with a finely<br />
salty, mineral finish. 13 Vol.-%, cork<br />
97 2019 »Blaulack« Johannisberg Schloss<br />
Johannisberger Riesling TBA<br />
Finely woven aromatics of Reine Claude plum, sage, minerality<br />
with date and sweet cherry. Subtle palate, neither conspicuous<br />
in sweetness nor in acidity, quite gentle and refined<br />
in style, dried pear on the finish with date, mineral hue and a<br />
finish defined by its texture. 7 Vol.-%, cork<br />
94 2019 »Rosalack« Johannisberg Schloss<br />
Johannisberger Riesling Auslese<br />
Finely woven and nuanced nose with fine minerality, stone<br />
fruit, blossom, bergamot and citrus fruit. Wonderfully balanced<br />
on the palate with exquisite fruit concentration, delicious<br />
honey note, perfectly complemented by juicy, citric<br />
acid structure. 8 Vol.-%, cork<br />
91 2019 »Bronzelack« Johannisberg Schloss<br />
Johannisberger Riesling trocken<br />
91 2019 »Rotlack« Johannisberg Schloss<br />
Johannisberger Riesling Kabinett feinherb<br />
90 2019 »Gelblack« Johannisberg Schloss<br />
Johannisberger Riesling feinherb<br />
93 2019 »Grünlack« Johannisberg Schloss<br />
Johannisberger Riesling Spätlese<br />
90 2019 »Gelblack« Johannisberg Schloss<br />
Johannisberger Riesling trocken<br />
Intricate texture, balance complemented by fine minerality<br />
and grip, yellow fruit and peach notes. Freshness on the<br />
palate with concentrated, yet deft, fruit. Chiselled, pervasive<br />
acid structure. Very nice Riesling, balanced, with substance<br />
and finesse. 12,5 Vol.-%, cork<br />
464 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Rheingau | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT JOHANNISHOF<br />
Grund 63, 65366 Johannisberg<br />
T: +49 (6722) 8216, info@weingut-johannishof.de<br />
www.weingut-johannishof.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–12 hrs and<br />
13–17 hrs, wine shop: Saturdays 15–18, Sundays 11–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Johannes Eser<br />
Contact: Johannes and Sabine Eser<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 155,000 (100 % white)/20 ha<br />
This year, Johannes and Sabine who run<br />
the Johannishof estate chose not to present<br />
their current Grosse Gewächse. In<br />
their place, we tasted a Riesling GG from the<br />
Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland from the 2015 vintage<br />
which came across as a little unwieldy.<br />
However, what we had in our tasting glasses<br />
from the 2019 vintage raised our expectations:<br />
The Rieslings from the Erste Lagen show presence,<br />
especially Ramstein, which is finely woven<br />
and shows mineral tension. The sophisticated<br />
Spätlese from the Johannisberger Klaus site<br />
turned out spectacularly well. We are more than<br />
happy to wait to taste the Grosse Gewächse.<br />
91 2019 Johannisberg Auf der Höll<br />
Riesling Erste Lage trocken<br />
Red apple and freshly peeled orange peel on the nose. Very<br />
vivid on the palate, fine phenolics, lively sweetness-acidity interplay<br />
with a slight predominance of sweetness. Good body,<br />
full-bodied with terpenic notes, and a fruity and aromatic finish.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
92 2019 Rüdesheim Berg Rottland<br />
Riesling Spätlese<br />
Ripe red apple, a hint of sultana, peppery notes, warm brick.<br />
A robust body, substantial, with slightly green acidity, intensely<br />
obvious mineral on the mid palate and noticeable alcohol.<br />
Juxtaposition of sweetness and acid. Will need bottle<br />
age. 10 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
90 2015 Rüdesheim Berg Rottland Riesling GG<br />
90 2019 »Charta Fass 94« Riesling<br />
Berry notes, yellow-fruited, delicious yeast, a hint of flinty<br />
mineral spice on the nose. Juicy acidity on the palate, generous,<br />
fruity sweetness, medium-weight extract, a typical representative<br />
of the style that will develop elegantly after a<br />
few years of bottle ageing. 12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
93 2019 Johannisberg Klaus Riesling Spätlese<br />
Mineral fragrance, tangerine and flint. On the palate, despite<br />
the vivid sweetness, quite fresh and unpretentious, acidity.<br />
Freshness and mineral extract dominate the underlying<br />
creamy style. Long and compact, very mineral and with refinement.<br />
9,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
91 2019 Rüdesheim Ramstein<br />
Riesling Erste Lage trocken<br />
Citrus-scented and floral, a balsamic hint of rosewood. On<br />
the palate there is subtle restraint, delicious acidity, finely-chiselled<br />
extract. Very much in the style of a dry Kabinett,<br />
real tension from tangible minerality. A subtle wine.<br />
11,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
465
WEINGUT JAKOB JUNG<br />
Eberbacher Strasse 22, 65346 Erbach<br />
T: +49 (6123) 900620, info@weingut-jakob-jung.de<br />
www.weingut-jakob-jung.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 13–18 hrs ,<br />
Saturdays 10–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Alexander Jung<br />
Contact: Alexander Jung<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 130,000 (85 % white, 15 % red)/18 ha<br />
We have the impression that each<br />
year Alexander Johannes Jung’s<br />
wines come across with a little<br />
more precision and focus. The wines he made<br />
in the 2019 vintage are definitely impressive,<br />
his entire range of wines is at a very good<br />
standard. The Grosses Gewächs scores with its<br />
fine savour, grip and stony minerality – it is<br />
among the top Rheignau players. The Eiswein<br />
is exquisite and we are also impressed with the<br />
Spätburgunders. For a while, this winery was<br />
amongst the more nondescript VDP members<br />
in the Rheingau – now it is really showing profile.<br />
93 2019 Erbach Hohenrain Riesling GG<br />
Red-green fruit on the nose, sweet reine claude plums, density<br />
and fine minerality and also spice. Flow and depth on the<br />
palate, gradually weaving more and more fine grip into the<br />
steady flow; stony minerality, salty citrus fruit and a hint of<br />
smokiness. Good potential. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€€<br />
92 2016 »Alexander Johannes«<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Smoky cherry notes on the nose, wild cherry, also fine wood.<br />
On the palate, cherry, tobacco and some juiciness. The tannin<br />
is pleasantly vivid and lends structure. Acidity and minerality<br />
provide a nice flow. Elegant Pinot. 13,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€€<br />
94 2018 Erbach Michelmark Riesling Eiswein<br />
Very good clarity on the nose - sultana, date. On the palate<br />
viscous, plump, comparatively discreet acidity, already concentrated.<br />
This concentration, however, is on a vintage-typical<br />
mild acidity, extract-rich palate. Round and rich, honey-sweet<br />
finish. Long-lived. 8,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€€<br />
92 2019 Erbach Michelmark Riesling Spätlese<br />
A hint of overripeness on the nose, dried apricot, candied<br />
peach, pineapple; a real fruit basket. Dense and full-bodied<br />
on the palate, powerful extract, the rich sweetness is completely<br />
balanced by the acidic backbone. A very dense<br />
Spätlese with very good potential. 8,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
91 2019 Erbach Steinmorgen<br />
Riesling Erste Lage trocken<br />
91 2019 »Charta« Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 Erbach Steinmorgen<br />
Riesling Erste Lage feinherb<br />
90 2019 »Alte Reben« Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
89 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
91 2016 Erbach Steinmorgen<br />
Spätburgunder Erste Lage trocken<br />
90 2019 Erbach Riesling trocken<br />
Balanced aroma, bright fruit, white peach, stone, some<br />
herbs, fresh orange. Rounded on the palate at first, followed<br />
by citric acidity, tart hints, some grapefruit juice and<br />
zest. Juicy, refreshing, with tart nuances and fine herbaceousness.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
466 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Rheingau | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT AUGUST KESSELER<br />
Lorcher Strasse 16, 65385 Assmannshausen<br />
T: +49 (6722) 9099200, info@august-kesseler.de<br />
www.august-kesseler.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Max Himstedt<br />
Contact: August Kesseler, Simon Batarseh<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 250,000 (65 % white, 35 % red)/33 ha<br />
Few German winemakers can claim to<br />
have returned a historic site to its rightful<br />
place – and few names are as associated<br />
with a specific site as that of August Kesseler<br />
and the Assmannshäuser Höllenberg.<br />
Kesseler’s pioneering path was stony and characterised<br />
by hard work. Today he is amongst<br />
the icons of German viticulture. Spätburgunder<br />
is no longer the sole focus of the estate, his<br />
Rieslings are just as amazing. The two vintages<br />
of Berg Schlossberg which we present now<br />
are cultural monuments made with ageing potential.<br />
97 2019 Rüdesheim Berg Schlossberg<br />
Riesling GG<br />
Dewy, still very youthful fruit on the nose: tangerine. The intensity<br />
of the citrus aromas is also beguiling on the palate.<br />
The concentrated palate vibrates with mineral freshness,<br />
one is aware of salty stone notes. Everything is taut, bright,<br />
radiant. 13,5 Vol.-%, cork<br />
96 2016 Assmannshausen Höllenberg<br />
Pinot Noir GG<br />
The penetrating, smoky nose is almost reminiscent of incense.<br />
On the palate, fine cherry fruit is linked with elderberry;<br />
both overlaid on stoniness, giving the stone notes charm<br />
and the fruit depth. Fine acidity brightens everything. The<br />
echo is seductive. 14 Vol.-%, cork<br />
95 2019 Rüdesheim Berg Roseneck<br />
Riesling GG<br />
95 2017 Rüdesheim Berg Schlossberg<br />
Riesling GG<br />
The heightened fruitiness of juicy mandarins and oranges<br />
bursts from the glasss, then dried hay flowers gently steer<br />
the aromatics into the ethereal. On the concentrated palate<br />
zest and fine, ripe freshness can be made out alongside wonderful,<br />
eternal, stony depth. 14 Vol.-%, cork<br />
97 2015 Assmannshausen Höllenberg<br />
Pinot Noir GG<br />
Ethereal scent reminiscent of smoked meat and salty, dried<br />
herbs. On the palate, both incredible transparency and concentration<br />
prevail. Finesse and power are paired. Finest fruit<br />
shines bright over the stoniness and only makes it more intense.<br />
14 Vol.-%, cork<br />
94 2019 Lorchhausen Seligmacher<br />
Riesling GG<br />
Ripe tangerine peel is highly aromatic on the precise nose.<br />
On the palate, ripe orange note are present too, bright and<br />
clear and with pronounced juiciness. A ripe acidity holds<br />
back at first, but comes into its own on the finish.<br />
13 Vol.-%, cork<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
467
KLOSTER EBERBACH<br />
Kloster Eberbach , 65346 Eltville<br />
T: +49 (6723) 6046 0, weingut@kloster-eberbach.de<br />
www.kloster-eberbach.de<br />
Cellar Door: Wine shop April to October daily from<br />
10–19 hrs, November to April daily from 10–18 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Bernd Kutschick / Oenologist: Kathrin Puff<br />
Contact: Dirk Sewe, Dieter Greiner<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 2,300,000 (85 % weiss, 15 % rot)/238 ha<br />
With her 2019 vintage, the new chief<br />
oenologist at Kloster Eberbach,<br />
shows in which direction she intends<br />
to take this 238-hectare estate with its<br />
portfolio of top sites: towards an emphasis of<br />
provenance and authenticity. But a lot more is<br />
going on: in the future, many of the steep sites<br />
are to be converted into terraces to improve<br />
mechanization. This should be seen as a contribution<br />
towards efficiency and therefore the<br />
preservation of this cultural landscape. The<br />
boost in wine quality could not be clearer and<br />
a fourth star is well within reach.<br />
94 2018 Hattenheim Steinberg Riesling GG<br />
Dried mango, lilac, and notes of shattered rock. On the delicate,<br />
balanced palate: breadth, effortlessly filled with substance:<br />
finest phenolics, suppleness, ripe acidity and a suitably<br />
restrained sweetness. Textured finish.<br />
13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€€<br />
95 2018 Rüdesheim Berg Schlossberg<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Some new wood, but mainly “wild” berry aromas, damson. On<br />
the palate full-bodied, dense, powerful mineral-tinged, lively<br />
acidity, very good substance, a layer of creaminess behind<br />
the taut and still compact structure. Great potential.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€€<br />
93 2017 »Crescentia« Assmannshausen<br />
Höllenberg Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Fruits of the forest aromas on the nose, some mint, a hint of juniper,<br />
some strawberry jam. On the palate there is acid-fresh<br />
elegance, also well endowed with tannin, fine-grained, ripe,<br />
but also juicy and ethereal. Clearly mineral in character. Very<br />
stylish and elegant. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€€<br />
93 2019 »Crescentia« Rauenthal Baiken<br />
Riesling Spätlese<br />
Multi-layered, citrusy, but also sultana, plus spicy mineral<br />
notes, flint. Juicy on the palate, crunchy acidity, rather restrained<br />
sweetness, intense perceptible minerality, quite classic<br />
in structure, will mature excellently. 8 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
92 2019 »Crescentia« Rauenthal Baiken<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
91 2016 »Crescentia« Rauenthal Baiken<br />
Riesling brut<br />
90 2019 »Crescentia« Wiesbaden Neroberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 »Crescentia« Heppenheim<br />
Centgericht Grauburgunder trocken<br />
90 2019 »Aus dem Cabinetkeller« Rüdesheim<br />
Berg Roseneck Riesling feinherb<br />
90 2017 »Crescentia« Pinot Noir trocken<br />
90 2019 »Crescentia« Hattenheim Steinberg<br />
Riesling Kabinett<br />
90 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
Some elderflower, but also citrus zest, dried lemon peel.<br />
On the palate quite straightforward, juicy and crunchy with<br />
quite good density and intensity, not a paragon of complexity,<br />
but highly respectable for a Gutsriesling (i.e. estate<br />
Riesling). 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
468 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Rheingau | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT BARON KNYPHAUSEN<br />
Draiser Hof, Erbacher Strasse 28, 65346 Eltville-Erbach<br />
T: +49 (6123) 790710, weingut@baron-knyphausen.de<br />
www.baron-knyphausen.de<br />
Cellar Door: daily from 10–18 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Arne Wilken<br />
Contact: Frederik zu Knyphausen<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 60,000 (90 % white, 10 % red)/12 ha<br />
The 2019 vintage turned out very well at<br />
Weingut Baron Knyphausen and ensured<br />
that the cellar is full of a whole<br />
host of appealing Rieslings: at the very top,<br />
stands the compact and multi-layered Grosse<br />
Gewächs from the Erbacher Hohenrain. The<br />
Riesling from the Steinmorgen site knows<br />
how to impress with its substance and mineral<br />
drive. We should not forget the classic Rheingau<br />
field blend of seven historical varieties like<br />
Gelber Orleans, Roter Riesling or Weisser Heunisch<br />
– a particular cause for this estate. It impresses<br />
with its natural character.<br />
92 2019 Erbach Hohenrain Riesling GG<br />
Focused nose with stone fruit and spicy mineral, floral notes,<br />
already fine on the nose. Multi-layered, spicy, almost peppery<br />
on the palate, soft acidity, substantial and compact, good<br />
density and consistency. Has potential and will develop well.<br />
13 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
91 2019 Erbach Steinmorgen<br />
Riesling Erste Lage trocken<br />
The full nose shows classic yellow fruits like peach and apricot<br />
as well as spicy, mineral notes. On the palate there is<br />
good substance and a slender body, finely spicy with a mineral<br />
base. Full of character. 12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 Erbach Riesling trocken<br />
Lemon zest on the nose, ripe apricot and peach with mint.<br />
Lean and focused on the palate, intricate construction, vivacious<br />
but restrained acidity. Phenolic tartness, straightforward<br />
and finely crafted. Shows terroir character and profile<br />
in easy fashion. 12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 »Charta« Riesling trocken<br />
Fruity nose, stone fruit and mineral notes, peach, floral<br />
notes, bay leaf and toasty aromas. Sweet fruit with ripe and<br />
precise acidity, juicy and clearly depicting Rheingau character.<br />
Elegant, with real personality. 12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 Riesling Kabinett<br />
89 2019 1141 Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 Gewürztraminer trocken<br />
88 2019 Roter Riesling feinherb<br />
88 2019 1818 Riesling feinherb<br />
89 2019 »Knyphausen 7 Historischer<br />
Rebensatz« tr. RR/ROR/WH/OR/TR/EL/GS<br />
Herbal and spicy scent, also apple and nutty aromas, some<br />
mint. Juicy start on the palate, ripe, refined acidity; slender<br />
in structure and gentle in its essence, but with inner merits:<br />
fine spiciness, naturalness and fine roundness.<br />
11,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
469
WEINGUT KRONE<br />
ASSMANNSHAUSEN<br />
Niederwaldstrasse 2, 65385 Assmannshausen<br />
T: +49 (6722) 2525, info@weingut-krone.de<br />
www.weingut-krone.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Michael Burgdorf, Dominic Borgwardt<br />
and Peter Perabo<br />
Contact: Tom Drieseberg<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 25,000 (20 % white, 80 % red)/6 ha<br />
A<br />
mention of the Krone in Assmannshausen<br />
may well conjure up thoughts<br />
of a traditional country inn rather than<br />
a well-placed Rheingau wine estate. Peter Perabo<br />
who works here, not only knows how to<br />
handle heavy motorbikes, but is a profound<br />
talent when it comes to Pinot Noir. The cellar<br />
master and his team really manage to masterfully<br />
express the mineral tension and depth of<br />
these Assmannshausen sites in their Spätburgunders.<br />
Their Spätburgunder “Juwel” is a<br />
symbol of their style. However, Krone also<br />
knows how to make Weissburgunder and Riesling.<br />
These are wines that deliver real pleasure.<br />
92 2019 Hallgarten Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Apple and pear on the fine nose, with a portion of citrus fruit,<br />
hay and some thyme. On the palate juicy and spicy with good<br />
density and tension, firm in structure due to wood ageing,<br />
good freshness, mineral spiciness. Focused wine with potential.<br />
13 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
94 2014 »Juwel« Assmannshausen<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
The fact that a Pinot from 2014 presents itself in such lively<br />
fashion is thrilling. Aromatic intensity on the nose with tones<br />
of sandalwood, bottled strawberries and cherry. On the palate,<br />
the fruit is somewhat juicier and cooler. Poised with fine<br />
minerality. Round, harmonious, accessible and profound.<br />
13 Vol.-%, cork, €€€€<br />
93 2015 Assmannshausen Höllenberg<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Already spicy, dense, warm fruit on the nose. The same on<br />
the palate: sweet black cherry, juicy plum, some almond,<br />
spicy finish. Acidity and noticeable minerality carry this supple,<br />
very fine wine with tension. 13 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
92 2016 Assmannshausen Frankenthal<br />
Spätburgunder Erste Lage trocken<br />
Still somewhat youthful on the nose with cherry stone, red<br />
cherries, spicy and green tones. The acidity is still distinct,<br />
but underpinned with pleasant sour cherry. The wood is very<br />
nicely and gently integrated, contributing to the finely-balanced<br />
overall package. 13 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
89 2019 »Pinot« Rosé trocken<br />
90 2016 Assmannshausen<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
89 2017 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
90 2019 »Alte Reben« Riesling<br />
Clear, pale yellow. On the nose fine citrus fruit, lemon<br />
balm, mint, honeydew melon. Lively acidity on the palate,<br />
tangerine, lime, lemon balm, stone fruit; lively. Medium<br />
structure, pleasantly rounded. Ideal picnic wine.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
470 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Rheingau | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT PETER JAKOB KÜHN<br />
Mühlstrasse 70, 65375 Oestrich-Winkel<br />
T: +49 (6723) 2299, info@weingutpjkuehn.de<br />
www.weingutpjkuehn.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–12 hrs and<br />
13–17 hrs, Saturdays 11–17 hrs<br />
Contact: Angela and Peter Bernhard Kühn<br />
Hectares: 20 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
Our family has made wine in the central<br />
part of the Rheingau for more than<br />
230 years,” the Kühn family reports.<br />
“For ten generations, the understanding of the<br />
vineyard sites and their mica schist and<br />
Taunus-quartzite soils has been passed on and<br />
refined. We look upon this tradition with the<br />
upmost respect.” What could we possibly add<br />
to this since we have immense respect for the<br />
ninth and tenth generation of this family: Peter<br />
Jakob and Peter Bernhard Kühn live and<br />
breathe biodynamics and manage once again<br />
to present wines of crystalline depth.<br />
95 2018 Oestrich Doosberg Riesling GG<br />
Already full of scent: notes of yeast, iodine and minerals. On<br />
the palate there is great density with a firm acid backbone.<br />
Juice and tension dominate the midpalate; mineral and phenolic<br />
notes the finish. Great aromatic potential.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
with a "cool" elegant impression and a palate structure that<br />
demands bottle-ageing to develop the mineral finesse.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
90 2019 »Rheinschiefer« Hallgarten<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
94 2018 Mittelheim Sankt Nikolaus<br />
Riesling GG<br />
Nuanced yellow fruit, very discreet wood. Silky on the palate<br />
with finest phenolics, ripe yet long-lasting acidity, an immensely<br />
refined flow, juice and body. Structure and suppleness<br />
are almost effortlessly in balance. 12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
92 2018 Oestrich Klosterberg Riesling<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
Some wood and strong notes of spontaneous fermentation.<br />
Viscous upfront, supple and rich. The plump structure is then<br />
countered by texture and ripe acidity. It is definitely a wine<br />
that expresses this vintage but it comes with so much saltiness<br />
and extract that balance is guaranteed.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
91 2018 Hallgarten Hendelberg<br />
Riesling Erste Lage trocken<br />
Balsamic, fresh, citrusy, smoky-mineral undertones. On the<br />
palate there is fine acidity and relatively vivid sweetness,<br />
91 2019 »Quarzit« Oestrich Riesling trocken<br />
Tangerine, balsamic notes on the nose, not yet very developed.<br />
On the palate, pithy, dense, strong mineral note, almost<br />
chewy. A substantial, entry-level Riesling with quite a<br />
bit of zest. 12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
471
WEINGUT KÜNSTLER<br />
Geheimrat-Hummel-Platz 1a, 65239 Hochheim<br />
T: +49 (6146) 8386, info@weingut-kuenstler.de<br />
www.weingut-kuenstler.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–12 hrs and<br />
13–18 hrs, Saturdays 10–16 hrs, Sundays 11–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Gunter Künstler, Rolf Schregel<br />
Contact: Monika Künstler<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 350,000 (90 % white, 10 % red)/48 ha<br />
Our motto,” the estate reports, “is the<br />
gentle and meticulous care of grapes<br />
in vineyard and cellar. This means<br />
tending our vineyards in tune with nature,<br />
with ground cover in the vine rows and eschewing<br />
herbicides.” Gunter Künstler and his<br />
wines need no introduction, of course. He<br />
stands for an utterly classic style. The wines we<br />
tasted in 2019 convinced us with pronounced<br />
fruit and clear site expression – and the wines<br />
from the river Main side of the Rheingau tend<br />
generally to be a little rounder and sweeter<br />
than their counterparts from the opposite end<br />
in Rüdesheim.<br />
93 2019 Hochheim Kirchenstück Riesling GG<br />
Fragrant on the nose with yellow fruitiness and spice. White<br />
pepper. On the palate flavours of caramelised apricot and hibiscus.<br />
Rich in extract yet harmonious, fine-boned with a vivid,<br />
sweet counterbalance. Balanced and supple. Extremely<br />
fine. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€€<br />
93 2019 Rüdesheim Berg Schlossberg<br />
Riesling GG<br />
Fruit, spice and minerality on the nose: parsley root, lovage<br />
with tropical hints of papaya and young pineapple. Sandstone.<br />
On the palate powerful phenolics with pronounced<br />
acidity, medium body and good ageing potential.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€€<br />
93 2019 Rüdesheim Berg Rottland Riesling GG<br />
Lemon and lemon balm, flint on the nose; firm grip on the<br />
palate with texture as well as fine, yet determining, spiciness.<br />
Stone fruit. Tightly woven and harmonious. Juicy acidity<br />
dominates into the finish. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€€<br />
93 2019 Hochheim Hölle Riesling GG<br />
Tangerine and vine peach on the nose, also herbaceous<br />
notes. On the palate animating minerality with firm acidity<br />
and vivid sweetness. Rich in extract. Everything has smooth<br />
foundations. Lemon zest and discreet phenolics on the finish.<br />
Needs time. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€€<br />
92 2019 Kostheim Weiss Erd Riesling GG<br />
91 2019 Hochheim Hölle Im Neuenberg<br />
Riesling Erste Lage trocken<br />
90 2019 »Mainterrassen« Hochheim<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 Hochheim Herrnberg Riesling<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
89 2019 Hochheim Domdechaney Riesling<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
89 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
93 2017 Hochheim Reichestal<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
91 2019 »Alte Reben« Hochheim Stielweg<br />
Riesling Erste Lage trocken<br />
Complex nose with aromas of lemon and lime zest, fresh<br />
stone fruit, but also smoky notes. On the palate, intense<br />
Riesling spiciness, saltiness and noticeable texture. Quite<br />
dry and harmonious with good length.<br />
13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
472 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT LEITZ<br />
Rheingau | WINERIES<br />
Theodor-Heuss-Str. 5, 65385 Rüdesheim am Rhein<br />
T: +49 (6722) 9999100, johannes.leitz@leitz-wein.de<br />
www.leitz-wein.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Johannes Leitz, Manuel Zuffer<br />
Contact: Johannes Leitz<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 650,000 (98 % white, 2 % red)/120 ha<br />
Johannes Leitz, who took over his family<br />
estate that can be traced back to 1744 in<br />
1985, consistently produces first class<br />
wines across the board - from 120 hectares of<br />
vineyards. This is as true for his very solid, animating<br />
Riesling trocken as it is at the top for<br />
his outstanding Grosse Gewächse. This time, it<br />
was the Riesling from the Rüdesheimer Berg<br />
Kaisersteinfels that impressed us most with its<br />
body, towering minerality and great ageing<br />
potential. The other Grosse Gewächse are<br />
competing strongly too! A great range of<br />
wines.<br />
94 2018 Rüdesheim Berg Kaisersteinfels<br />
Terrassen Riesling GG<br />
Fragrant nose of flint and stone fruit, dark honey, brown sugar.<br />
Full-bodied and juicy on the palate, smooth acidity, real<br />
drive, very long, deliciously-astringent finish, lots of minerality,<br />
enormous potential, very grown-up! 13 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
93 2018 »Monopol« Rüdesheim Rosengarten<br />
Riesling GG<br />
Bright green in the glasss, cool, slightly powdery nose, also<br />
mirabelle plum. Creamy on the palate with juicy acidity,<br />
white currants, then salty minerality paired with tart citrus<br />
notes. Seems very young and powerful - in a positive sense.<br />
13 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
93 2018 Rüdesheim Berg Schlossberg<br />
Ehrenfels Riesling GG<br />
Spicy and fresh on the nose with notes of smoke and wood,<br />
herbs, moss, stone-fruit, passion fruit. Also smoky on the palate<br />
with a combination of both suppleness and tension, ripe<br />
acidity, restrained sweetness. Long, substantial finish.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
93 2018 Rüdesheim Berg Roseneck Katerloch<br />
Riesling GG<br />
Glinting green-golden reflections, fragrant nose of white<br />
blossom and delicious Mediterranean herbs such as lavender<br />
and rosemary. On the palate real force with ripe, vintage<br />
typical acidity, discreet sweetness and delicious juiciness.<br />
13 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
91 2019 Rüdesheim Drachenstein Riesling<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
89 2019 »Magic Mountain« Rüdesheim<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 Rüdesheim Riesling trocken<br />
88 2019 »Eins-Zwei-Dry« Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 Rüdesheimer Kirchenpfad Riesling<br />
Kabinett feinherb<br />
89 »Blanc de Noir« Assmannshausen<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
91 2019 Rüdesheim Magdalenenkreuz<br />
Riesling Spätlese<br />
Clear yellow. On the nose fine citrus fruit, mineral tone,<br />
lemon balm, lemon, herbal spice. On the palate sweetness<br />
and acidity in a nice balance, somewhat phenolic, ripe apple,<br />
pear, apricot, stony. Firm, good structure, long, elegant.<br />
8,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
473
MEHRLEIN<br />
Rieslingstrasse 49, 65375 Oestrich-Winkel<br />
T: +49 (6723) 2934, info@weingut-mehrlein.de<br />
www.weingut-mehrlein.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Thorsten Mehrlein<br />
Contact: Thorsten Mehrlein<br />
Hectares: 62 ha<br />
By now, Thorsten Mehrlein farms a respectable<br />
62 hectares of vines between<br />
Oestrich and Rüdesheim – amongst<br />
them renowned sites like the Oestricher Doosberg,<br />
Johannisberger Erntebringer or<br />
Oestricher Klosterberg and 98% of his vineyards<br />
are planted to Riesling. This turns<br />
Mehrlein into a Riesling specialist – and he<br />
knows how to reveal the variety’s most charming<br />
aspects. The fruit is clearly depicted, a few<br />
wines show an alluring interplay of acidity<br />
and sweetness, all are slender, linear and avoid<br />
unnecessary ballast. An impressive collection!<br />
91 2019 Oestrich Klosterberg Riesling trocken<br />
Apple and apricot on the nose, orange zest, some herbs such<br />
as thyme. Well-structured Riesling with density, good extract<br />
and fine sweetness. Harmonises well with aromas of citrus<br />
fruit on the palate. The fine minerality lends character.<br />
12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
88 2019 Mittelheim Edelmann<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 »Alte Reben« Riesling trocken<br />
Multi-layered nose with ripe stone fruit, papaya and peach,<br />
spice, also darker notes, bay leaf. Juicy and deep. On the palate<br />
there is nice spice and texture; well balanced, the elements<br />
are well integrated, lean and yet intense.<br />
12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 »Gentleman« Riesling trocken<br />
Ripe mango and peach on the nose, grapefruit, also orange<br />
peel and herbs. Slenderly built on the palate, everything is<br />
balanced, juicy and with ripe and lively acidity, nice sweetness-acidity<br />
interplay. Stylish Riesling that knows why it is<br />
called "Gentleman".12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 Johannisberg Erntebringer Riesling<br />
Clear, pale yellow. On the nose - passion fruit, ripe citrus fruit,<br />
lush peach. On the palate lively acidity and a fine sweetness.<br />
Again bright, exotic sweet fruit, medium structure and<br />
length, with some apple tartness. 11,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 »Quarzit« Riesling trocken<br />
Spicy, herbal nose showing apple and stone fruit, also<br />
warm stone. With clear, pure fruit on the palate and lots of<br />
juice and texture, good balance of spice, sweetness and<br />
freshness, slenderly built. Also has tang and is very moreish.<br />
12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
474 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Rheingau | WINERIES<br />
<br />
BIO-WEINGUT MITTER-VELTEN<br />
Frankfurter Strasse 31, 65239 Hochheim am Main<br />
T: +49 (6146) 9101, weingut-mitter@gmx.de<br />
www.weingut-mitter.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 10–12 hrs, Tuesdays<br />
through Thursdays 15–18 hrs, Sundays 10–12.30 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Martin Mitter<br />
Contact: Martin Mitter<br />
Hectares: 8 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
At Weingut Mitter-Velten in Hochheim<br />
am Main, run by Martin Mitter, you get<br />
good, classic winemaking craft in the<br />
best sense of the word – and since 2018 all this<br />
comes with an organic certification. The wines<br />
Mitter presented are solid and well-made, you<br />
get what it says on the label: when you read Kabinett<br />
or Spätlese, this is exactly what you get.<br />
His Riesling “Premium No.7”- with its great<br />
consistency and substance stands at the top of<br />
the range, the Riesling Kabinett shows the typically<br />
enjoyable interplay of the genre and comes<br />
with much drinkability, the Spätburgunder<br />
shows spice and body. Convincing!<br />
90 2019 »Premium No.7« Hochheim<br />
Kirchenstück Riesling Spätlese trocken<br />
Profound aromas of passion fruit, peach and sweet apricot.<br />
On the palate juicy, full-bodied with ripe, firm acidity. Displays<br />
power, volume, sweet fruit and also elegance, good texture;<br />
with the fine mineral note setting the tone. Good ageing<br />
potential. 13,5 Vol.-%, screwcap<br />
extract, sweet fruit and plenty of ripe tannin. Generous.<br />
14 Vol.-%, screwcap<br />
87 2019 Spätburgunder<br />
Weissherbst halbtrocken<br />
89 2019 Hochheim Hölle Riesling<br />
Spätlese trocken<br />
Ripe peach and mango on the powerful nose, also fine floral<br />
spice. Juicy palate with well-judged power and substance.<br />
Classic Spätlese with good volume, ripe acidity and good<br />
length; shows texture and creaminess. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap<br />
89 2019 Weissburgunder Spätlese trocken<br />
Powerful and full-bodied Pinot Blanc, which truly deserves<br />
the title Spätlese. On the nose ripe yellow fruit - mirabelle<br />
plum and yellow apple. On the palate there is good density,<br />
the sweetness is well integrated, the acidity ripe and resounding.<br />
Classic craftsmanship. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap<br />
89 2018 Hochheim Hölle Spätburgunder<br />
Spätlese trocken<br />
On the nose ripe sweet cherry and smoky, toasty aromas,<br />
some smoked bacon, blood orange and bay leaf. Powerful<br />
structure on the palate, with volume and intense spice, good<br />
89 2019 Hochheim Hölle Riesling Kabinett tr.<br />
Fine yellow fruit on the nose - peach and apricot - also with<br />
floral notes and fine spice. Juicy on the palate with precise<br />
fruit, the discreet sweetness is well supported by the vivid<br />
acidity. Clear Kabinett style, playful and precise, lean in alcohol.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
475
WEINGUT MOHR<br />
Rheinstrasse 21, 65391 Lorch<br />
T: +49 (6726) 9484, info@weingut-mohr.de<br />
www.weingut-mohr.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Jochen Neher<br />
Contact: Jochen Neher<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 70,000 (85 % white, 15 % red)/10 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
Weingut Mohr took another decisive<br />
step forward with the 2019<br />
vintage: the wines this organically<br />
certified estate made are truly impressive!<br />
Manager and cellar master Jochen Neher presents<br />
squeaky clean, wonderfully balanced<br />
Rieslings that absolutely show their provenance.<br />
His two Grosse Gewächse from the<br />
Krone and Bodental-Steinberg sites are grippy<br />
and pervaded with fine minerality. The profound<br />
Riesling “34” from a 1934-planted parcel<br />
in the Schlossberg site is even more compelling.<br />
If Jochen Neher can maintain this cruising<br />
altitude his third star is well within reach.<br />
93 2019 »34« Lorch Schlossberg Riesling tr.<br />
Finely-scented: apricot and orange blossom on the nose. On<br />
the palate there is pleasant acidity and obvious spicy aromas<br />
of ripe stone fruit and orange peel. Shows good balance. The<br />
finish is slightly herbaceous, pleasing and finely resonant.<br />
13 Vol.-%, glass, €€€<br />
added interest. The ripe fruit remains on the palate for a long<br />
time. Appealing Ortsriesling. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
88 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
92 2019 »Rheingau Grosses Gewächs« Lorch<br />
Krone Riesling trocken<br />
White flowers, pepper and white mushroom on the nose. On<br />
the palate there is fine acidity that combines wonderfully<br />
with the fresh, tart aromas. Slate minerality makes the wine<br />
pleasantly long and smooth. Finely balanced, not overt, elegant.<br />
13 Vol.-%, glass, €€€<br />
91 2019 »Grosses Gewächs« Lorch<br />
Bodental-Steinberg Riesling trocken<br />
Intense on the nose with tones of very ripe pineapple. Well-integrated<br />
and animating acidity that carries the ripe fruit flavours<br />
well. Fine minerality with a slightly peppery finish. Accessible<br />
Grosses Gewächs that is opening up nicely.<br />
13 Vol.-%, glass, €€€<br />
89 2019 Lorch Riesling trocken<br />
Vivid nose of fresh pineapple and almond blossom, also yellow<br />
stone fruit, peach. Compactly built on the palate, moderate<br />
acidity and a dash of sweetness, fine minerality gives<br />
90 2019 »Alte Reben« Riesling trocken<br />
Vivid and animating nose with tones of ripe pineapple and<br />
fresh mango. On the palate, ripe fruit aromas are beautifully<br />
supported by the vivid and balanced acidity. The old<br />
vines bring complexity and contribute to the character.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
476 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Rheingau | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT<br />
GEORG MÜLLER STIFTUNG<br />
Eberbacher Strasse 7–9, 65347 Hattenheim im Rheingau<br />
T: +49 (6723) 2020, info@georg-mueller-stiftung.de<br />
www.georg-mueller-stiftung.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–12 hrs and<br />
14–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Tim Lilienström<br />
Contact: Peter Winter<br />
Hectares: 19 ha<br />
With this current range of wines,<br />
Weingut Georg Müller Stiftung underpins<br />
its standing in the Rheingau.<br />
Under estate manager and cellar master Tim Lilienström,<br />
the estate has been on an upward trajectory<br />
for a while. This winemaker from Lower<br />
Saxony knows how to exploit the potential of<br />
92 2018 Hattenheim Nussbrunnen Riesling GG<br />
Vivid and nutty nose with floral notes. A clearly-structured<br />
Riesling on the palate: full-bodied and emphatically dry, with<br />
animating minerality and wonderfully spicy. Harmonious and<br />
full of tension, a great food wine, also has ageing potential.<br />
13 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
92 2018 Hallgarten Jungfer Riesling GG<br />
This wine inspires with its intense spontaneous fermentation<br />
spiciness and smoky mineral notes. You will look for fruit<br />
in vain, but you get a complex, animating Riesling with spice,<br />
texture and fine sweetness-acidity interplay.<br />
13 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
91 2019 Hattenheim Hassel Riesling GG<br />
On the nose, a dense, but complex, impression of ripe apricots<br />
and toasted rice, also liquorice. Quite a sturdy structure,<br />
strong acidity, well-balanced sweetness. Finally, the ripe<br />
apricots return on the finish. Hearty with good flow.<br />
13 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
92 2019 Oestrich Lenchen Riesling Auslese<br />
Melon, green tea and lychee perfume the finely-woven nose.<br />
The fine fruitiness persists on the palate without becoming<br />
too lush. The taut acidity is very nice, giving the Auslese an<br />
unusual flow. Good balance and potential for development.<br />
7,5 Vol.-%, cork<br />
the 19 hectares of vineyards – among them such<br />
famed sites as Wisselbrunnen, Hassel or Nussbrunnen.<br />
Lilienström clearly lends his signature<br />
to the wines and knows how to handle wood,<br />
which is also used for maturing Riesling. His<br />
Grosse Gewächse, his noble sweet wines and the<br />
Spätburgunders are all most convincing.<br />
88 2019 »Alte Reben« Hallgarten<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
88 2019 Hattenheim Schützenhaus<br />
Riesling Erste Lage trocken<br />
87 2018 Auxerrois trocken<br />
91 2018 Assmannshausen Frankenthal<br />
Spätburgunder Erste Lage trocken<br />
90 2017 »Artist Edition Tumarova«<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
89 2018 »Daniel« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
91 2019 Hattenheim Nussbrunnen<br />
Riesling Spätlese<br />
89 2019 »Rheinstrom« Riesling trocken<br />
A fresh Riesling with a delicious scent of fresh stone fruit<br />
on the nose, apricot and peach. On the palate, juicy fresh<br />
with pleasantly restrained acidity and nice flow. Definitely<br />
a wine for any occasion! 12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
477
WEINGUT HEINZ NIKOLAI<br />
Ringstrasse 16, 65346 Erbach<br />
T: +49 (6123) 62708, weingut@heinz-nikolai.de<br />
www.heinz-nikolai.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Saturdays 10–18 hrs,<br />
Sundays 10–14 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Frank Nikolai<br />
Contact: Katharina Nikolai<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 135,000 (85 % white, 15 % red)/16 ha<br />
The Nikolai family will soon be able to celebrate<br />
a big anniversary: they have been<br />
making wine in the Rheingau since 1824<br />
and they had their 196th harvest in 2020. Frank<br />
and Katharina Nikolai are the sixth generation<br />
of the family to run the estate, farming sixteen<br />
hectares of vines on Taunus-quartzite, loess and<br />
loam – and Riesling plays the starring role, of<br />
course. The 2019 wines, once again, turned out<br />
really well, it was the GG Steinmorgen with its<br />
juicy fruit and mineral grip that really gripped<br />
us. We were also surprised by the rounded Spätburgunder<br />
with its spicy fruit. It’s worth noting:<br />
you get a lot of wine here at a good price.<br />
90 2019 »Rheingau Grosses Gewächs« Erbach<br />
Steinmorgen Riesling trocken<br />
Rounded and full-bodied on the nose. Green papaya, apple,<br />
ripe stone fruit, fine minerality and spiciness. Mouth-filling<br />
and supple on the palate with freshness and juice. Creamy<br />
peach fruit, fine tart hints, citrus fruit and salty-mineral acidity.<br />
13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 »Rheingau Grosses Gewächs« Erbach<br />
Siegelsberg Riesling trocken<br />
Bright fruit, red crisply-sweet apple, slight hint of caraway,<br />
some hawthorn. Smooth mouthfeel, charming fullness and<br />
juiciness. Fresh orange, some blossom, salty-fresh acid<br />
structure. Juicy, full-bodied, fresh. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 Hallgarten Würzgarten<br />
Riesling Spätlese trocken<br />
Rich yellow fruit, herbs, a little apple and orange on the nose.<br />
Smooth texture on the palate, flowing and balanced. Finely concentrated<br />
fruit, delicious spice, fine acid grip. Ripe Amalfi lemon,<br />
orange zest and juiciness into the finish. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap<br />
92 2018 »Johann Jakob« Spätburgunder<br />
Alte Reben trocken<br />
Some new wood, herbal spice, but also Amarena cherry. Menthol.<br />
Dense cherry fruit on the palate, silky tannins, lots of<br />
juiciness and texture and, despite this plump, round, massive<br />
structure, also good acidity. Sweet, long lasting finish.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
89 2019 »Filetstück« Erbach Michelmark<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 »Primus Maximus« Riesling trocken<br />
88 2019 Hallgarten Jungfer<br />
Riesling Kabinett feinherb<br />
87 2018 Weissburgunder brut<br />
87 2019 Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
87 2019 Hallgarten Schönhell Riesling<br />
Kabinett trocken<br />
87 2019 »Blanc de Noir« Spätburgunder tr.<br />
89 2019 »Alte Reben« Erbach Steinmorgen<br />
Riesling feinherb<br />
Sweet green apple, stone, some tangerine. Concentrated<br />
and at the same time light on the palate with fine mineral<br />
spiciness. Juicy, bright fruit, some blossom, subtle sweetness<br />
and a spicy acid structure with mineral grip and drive<br />
on the finish. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
478 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Rheingau | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT PRINZ VON HESSEN<br />
Grund 1, 65366 Geisenheim-Johannisberg<br />
T: +49 (6722) 409180, weingut@prinz-von-hessen.com<br />
www.prinz-von-hessen.com<br />
Cellar Door: Tuesdays through Saturdays 12–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Sascha Huber<br />
Contact: Bärbel Weinert<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 30,000 (95 % white, 5 % red)/47 ha<br />
If we stick to the winemaking maxim that<br />
the estate Riesling is the calling card of the<br />
house, then that of Weingut Prinz von<br />
Hessen is a most attractive one: it spreads<br />
across the palate with juiciness, charm and<br />
fresh brightness, it is animating and almost voluptuous.<br />
It is these entry-level and village<br />
wines that appear to have gained in clarity<br />
since Bärbel Weinert took over the running of<br />
the estate. We cannot yet speak of a paradigm<br />
shift, but we are curious to see how things will<br />
develop.<br />
91 2018 »Dachsfilet« Riesling trocken<br />
Uniformity and intricateness on the nose, notes of stone<br />
fruit, citrus and spicy meadow herbs. Concentrated and grippy<br />
on the palate with notes of peach and citrus. Mineral, with<br />
fine acidity and juicy, animating freshness. Pithy and elegant.<br />
13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€€<br />
90 2019 Johannisberg Riesling trocken<br />
On the nose, balance, depth, juicy, bright fruit, red apple, gently<br />
spicy herbs, a hint of smokiness. Supple mouthfeel, then<br />
finely-integrated acid structure, rejuvenating towards the<br />
end to a straight, citrusy finish. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 »Royal« Riesling Kabinett trocken<br />
88 2019 »Classic« Riesling feinherb<br />
88 2019 Weissburgunder trocken<br />
88 2019 Scheurebe trocken<br />
87 2018 Scheurebe trocken<br />
88 2019 Rosé feinherb<br />
91 2019 Winkel Hasensprung<br />
Riesling Spätlese<br />
Intricate and fine-grained on the nose with notes of yellow<br />
fruit, orange blossom, white peach, yellow pear and juicy citrus<br />
fruit. On the palate, a beautiful interplay of fresh, sweet<br />
fruit and delicious acidity, delicate structure and yet taut, elegant<br />
and refined. 8 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€€<br />
90 2019 »Steckenpferd« Riesling Spätlese<br />
Finely-concentrated on the nose with notes of fresh vine<br />
peach and a hint of apricot. Juicy on the palate, there is fine<br />
fruit sweetness, supple and light. Fine grip and invigorating<br />
citric acidity on the finish. Well-balanced and charming.<br />
10 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€€<br />
89 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
On the nose blossom, stone fruit, red-green fruit; round<br />
and fresh. Initially charming and mouth-filling on the palate,<br />
followed by invigorating acidity, vine peach and juicy<br />
citrus fruit. Animating and pleasurable estate Riesling.<br />
11,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
479
WEINGUT PRINZ<br />
Im Flachsgarten 5, 65375 Hallgarten<br />
T: +49 (6723) 999847, info@prinz-wein.de<br />
www.prinz-wein.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Fred Prinz<br />
Contact: Sabine and Fred Prinz<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 60,000 (93 % white, 7 % red)/10 ha<br />
Fred Prinz makes wines that translate the<br />
conditions of the high-altitude sites of<br />
Hallgarten according to the criteria of<br />
good, organic practice. This results in wines<br />
like the Jungfer Spätlese which will not fully<br />
reveal itself for another two to three years. Its<br />
dry counterpart will probably open up a little<br />
earlier and also shows a little more depth. In<br />
the mid segment we had two favourites this<br />
year: the juicy estate Riesling and the Riesling<br />
from Hendelberg that comes with an irresistible<br />
sense of place: cool and taut with a fruity<br />
core.<br />
93 2019 Hallgarten Jungfer Riesling GG<br />
Still closed on the nose, but with hints of citrusy fresh fruit,<br />
herbal spice and smoky terroir. Supple and poised on the palate<br />
at the beginning, then with delicious phenolics, refined<br />
acidity and restrained sweetness. Extremely stylish!<br />
13 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
89 2019 Hallgarten Riesling trocken<br />
92 2019 Hallgarten Hendelberg Riesling tr.<br />
Pomelo, floral notes, rosehip, blood orange. On the palate<br />
there is an exciting structure, with a supple background and<br />
a firm, intensely palpable mineral structure as a contrast.<br />
Good extract, very nice balance, great future.<br />
13 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
91 2019 Hallgarten Frühernberg Riesling tr.<br />
Apple, orange peel. Initially closed, then also more and more<br />
yellow-fruit appears. Powerful on the palate, good volume,<br />
firm acid backbone and a rather generous counterbalance of<br />
sweetness. Compact and sturdy on the finish.<br />
13 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
92 2019 Hallgarten Jungfer Riesling Spätlese<br />
Fragrant, floral, berries, a hint of blackcurrant, lemon blossom.<br />
On the palate: very vivid sweetness and a counterbalance<br />
of saltiness and steely acidity. For all its sweetness it is<br />
fresh and mineral, compact and ultimately still very young.<br />
8,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
90 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
Vegetal, herbaceous. Well-proportioned on the palate, firm<br />
acidity, medium density, fruit highlighted with a slight<br />
sweetness. An emphatically "cool" estate Riesling that will<br />
mature with more spice. 12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
480 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Rheingau | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT BALTHASAR RESS<br />
Rheinallee 7, 65347 Eltville-Hattenheim<br />
T: +49 (6723) 91950, info@balthasar-ress.de<br />
www.balthasar-ress.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays and Sundays 12–20 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Stephan Sänger<br />
Contact: Christian Ress<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 330,000 (90 % white, 10 % red)/50 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
Christian Ress, industrious and active,<br />
has run this 1870-founded family estate<br />
since 2010. They own 50 hectares<br />
of vines in sites like Hattenheimer Nussbrunnen<br />
and Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland. Right<br />
from the start it was his aim to make it into one<br />
of the Rheingau’s top estates. Initially he managed<br />
to do this with the assistance of Dirk<br />
Würtz who was later followed by Oliver<br />
Schmid. More recently Stephen Sänger took<br />
over as cellar master. Happily, this upheaval of<br />
personnel changes went well and we tasted a<br />
range of wines at a very high standard. Compliments!<br />
92 2018 Hattenheim Nussbrunnen Riesling GG<br />
Ripe apple, nutty caramel hints, yellow spiciness, earthy<br />
minerality. Fluid on the palate with gentle, juicy, rich stone<br />
fruit, floral notes. Delicious phenolics, finely integrated acid<br />
structure, charming astringency at the end.<br />
13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€€<br />
91 2018 Hallgarten Hendelberg<br />
Riesling Spätlese<br />
Spicy, ripe yellow fruit, peach, caramel hints with darker nuances,<br />
finely intricate. Yellow-fruited on the palate, fresh,<br />
juicy acid structure and fine tannin grip. Sweet Golden Delicious<br />
apple, tangerine and nectarine, with delicious herbs.<br />
11,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
93 2015 Hattenheim Engelmannsberg<br />
Riesling Auslese<br />
Honey gold, clear. On the nose evolved notes, citrus, almond,<br />
matchstick, some rose, lavender. On the palate nice balance<br />
between sweetness and acidity, with citrus, sultanas, good<br />
texture, fine grip, very elegant, finely matured, almost almond<br />
biscuit. Nice length. Great extract.<br />
7 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
92 1997 Rüdesheim Berg Rottland<br />
Riesling Auslese<br />
Golden in colour. A hint of Fino, apple skin, but also floral, lilac,<br />
dried pear. On the palate quite plump and soft, silky texture,<br />
ripe acidity and a sweetness completely softened by<br />
ripeness, slightly caramelised aromas on the palate. Finely<br />
evolved Auslese. 9,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
90 2019 »Von Unserm« Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 Hattenheim Riesling<br />
88 2019 Hallgarten Riesling<br />
90 2018 »Von Unserm - S«<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
89 2018 »Von Unserm«<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
91 1989 Oestrich Doosberg Riesling Auslese<br />
90 2019 Rüdesheim Riesling trocken<br />
Light stone fruit, sweet apple. Delicious and fresh on the<br />
palate. Light, fluid, clear fruit, peach, very fine herbaceousness<br />
and a chiselled acid structure. Citrusy juiciness with<br />
fine grapefruit bitterness on the finish.<br />
12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
481
SCHAMARI MÜHLE<br />
Grund 65, 65366 Johannisberg<br />
T: +49 (6722) 64537, mail@schamari.de<br />
www.schamari.de<br />
Cellar Door: Thurdays through Saturdays and<br />
Mondays 10–18 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Thomas Grundler<br />
Contact: Dr. Peter Reck<br />
Hectares: 5 ha<br />
The Schamari-Mühle estate sits in<br />
Johannisberg, just underneath the Castle.<br />
This picturesque, century-old mill is<br />
surrounded by the meadows and pastures of<br />
the Elsterbach valley. It was taken over in 1950<br />
by Swede Erik Andersson but now the estate<br />
with its five hectares of vines in Johannisberg,<br />
Geisenheim, Assmannshausen and Lorch belongs<br />
to Dr. Peter Reck. We tasted exquisite<br />
Spätburgunders, the mineral-pervaded “La<br />
Déesse” - and the cheeky, astoundingly fresh<br />
“Scha-to-Marie” from the 2013 vintage. The<br />
white wines also turned out well and the sparkling<br />
wine is a true pleasure!<br />
91 2019 »Scha-to-Marie« Geisenheim<br />
Kläuserweg Riesling trocken<br />
Spicy, multi-layered bouquet with aromas of citrus fruits,<br />
apricot and flowers, also smoke. On the palate there is good<br />
density, firm structure, fine spice and mineral undertone.<br />
Soft and grippy, with a layer of powdery phenolics. Potential.<br />
13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
on the nose. Fresh and deft on the palate, although it has a<br />
lot of power. Firm tannin, good concentration, but also a lot<br />
of Pinot delicacy, consistent, dry and precise in expression.<br />
14 Vol.-%, DIAM, €€€<br />
89 2019 Geisenheim Kläuserweg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 Geisenheim Kilzberg<br />
Chardonnay trocken<br />
Fine smoke on the nose, melon and some quince, walnut and<br />
herbs. Powerful on the palate with substance and density,<br />
ripe acidity, emphatically dry, yet with texture and juice.<br />
Clearly structured and of medium complexity, ends with fine<br />
spiciness. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
93 2015 »La Déesse« Johannisberg Hölle<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Smoke, blackcurrant, black tea, curry leaves, seaweed, tar,<br />
ethereal tone. Good concentration and density on the palate,<br />
the tannins are dense and fine, smooth foundation, pronounced<br />
minerality, shows power, provenance and finesse.<br />
Great potential. 14 Vol.-%, DIAM, €€€<br />
92 2013 »Scha-to-Marie« Johannisberg Hölle<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Parsley notes, cassis, sour cherry, smoky bacon and juniper<br />
93 2018 Assmannshausen Höllenberg brut<br />
Smoky nose with raspberry and wild strawberry. Juicy and<br />
also complex sparkling wine; its fine sweetness sits well<br />
and complements the slate notes of the Höllenberg. Brilliant<br />
fruit in a thoroughly complex structure, sophisticated<br />
and full of style. 13 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
482 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
DOMÄNENWEINGUT<br />
SCHLOSS SCHÖNBORN<br />
Rheingau | WINERIES<br />
Hauptstrasse 53, 65347 Eltville-Hattenheim<br />
T: +49 (6723) 91810,<br />
schloss-schoenborn@schoenborn.de<br />
www.schloss-schoenborn.com<br />
Cellar Door: Office: Mondays through Fridays 8–14 hrs<br />
Wine shop: Wednesdays through Sundays 15–21 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Florian Franke<br />
Contact: Marcel von den Benken<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 200,000 (97 % white, 3 % red)/29 ha<br />
The upward trajectory at Domänenweingut<br />
Schloss Schönborn continues<br />
and is on firmer footing now. We tasted<br />
a really successful range of wines with outstanding<br />
dry Rieslings from the Marcobrunn,<br />
Berg Schlossberg and Berg Rottland sites<br />
which clearly depict their provenance. Amidst<br />
the noble sweet wines, we really liked the powerful<br />
yet fine Spätlese from the Marcobrunn<br />
site; while the Spätburgunder from Berg Rottland<br />
is mineral and really delicious. The 29<br />
hectares of vineyard are in conversion to organic<br />
farming. We congratulate this estate on<br />
receiving its well-deserved third star!<br />
93 2019 »Rheingau Grosses Gewächs« Erbach<br />
Marcobrunn Riesling<br />
Lemon balm on the nose, with stone fruit, floral hints, a certain<br />
balminess and wet stone. Opens up on the palate with<br />
juiciness and sweet fruit. Ripe acidity provides a backbone<br />
through the compact format, with phenolic hints, ripe citrus<br />
fruit and a mineral finish. 13 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
93 2019 »Rheingau Grosses Gewächs«<br />
Rüdesheim Berg Schlossberg Riesling<br />
Apricot on the nose, together with caramel and white flowers,<br />
elderflower cordial and floral hints. A well-concentrated<br />
palate with texture, substance but at the same time poised<br />
with juicy spiciness, fine mineral accent, good length and<br />
ageing potential. 13 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
92 2018 »Rheingau Grosses Gewächs«<br />
Rüdesheim Berg Rottland Spätburgunder<br />
Ripe, sweet, red and black cherry in the intense aroma, beautiful<br />
Pinot aromas, fine spice and smoke, some blood orange.<br />
Powerful and dense on the palate, the refined acidity is vivid<br />
and gives energy. Quite delicious and mineral. Young.<br />
13 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
92 2019 Erbach Marcobrunn Riesling Spätlese<br />
Lemon balm and incense, floral notes, lavender, lemon blossom.<br />
A hint of overripeness. Rich and full on the palate, as expected<br />
from the area, but also characterised by good texture<br />
and long-lasting, juicy acidity. A Spätlese with finesse and<br />
power. 7,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
92 2019 Rüdesheim Berg Rottland Riesling tr.<br />
91 2019 Hattenheim Wisselbrunnen<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 Hochheim Kirchenstück<br />
Riesling feinherb<br />
89 2019 Hochheim Hölle Riesling trocken<br />
88 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
88 2019 Riesling feinherb<br />
89 2018 »Alte Reben« Pinot Noir trocken<br />
91 2019 Erbach Marcobrunn<br />
Riesling Kabinett<br />
Apple, orange zest and apricot, floral notes and leafiness<br />
on the fine nose. Neat and supple on the palate, delicate<br />
structure, juicy and finely fruity with playful acidity, underpinned<br />
by spicy slate minerality. Finely balanced and intricate.<br />
8 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
483
WEINGUT SOHNS<br />
Hospitalstrasse 25, 65366 Geisenheim<br />
T: +49 (6722) 8940, info@weingut-sohns.de<br />
www.weingut-sohns.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–12 hrs and<br />
14-18 hrs, Saturdays 10–15 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Pascal Sohns<br />
Contact: Pascal Sohns<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 80,000 (75 % white, 25 % red)/10 ha<br />
Weingut Sohns is in the northern<br />
part of Geisenheim, close to the famous<br />
viticultural college. Pascal<br />
Sohns and his father Erich work hand in hand<br />
in order to “produce top quality wines in tune<br />
with nature,” they report. Cellar master Pascal<br />
manages to make really expressive wines, like<br />
the dense and textured Grosses Gewächs from<br />
the Kläuserweg, which mirror their site. But<br />
his Spätburgunder also turn out really well!<br />
You can taste and sip the wines at their Vinothek<br />
(wine shop) with its roof terrace that offers<br />
a panoramic view of the river Rhine.<br />
91 2018 »Rheingau Grosses Gewächs«<br />
Geisenheim Kläuserweg Riesling trocken<br />
Powerful and complex nose with ripe stone fruit, apricot, orange<br />
zest and fine herbs. Full-bodied and powerful on the<br />
palate with good substance and density. Phenolic tartness<br />
adds to the complexity, ripe acidity. Good ageing potential.<br />
13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
and relatively lively acidity, full-bodied and compact. The<br />
tannin is noticeable and still slightly demanding, good length<br />
and also potential. 13,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
90 2017 Geisenheim Mönchspfad<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
90 2018 Lorchhausen Seligmacher Riesling tr.<br />
Slate spice on the nose with ripe yellow fruit, peach, mango<br />
and citrus, floral notes, balmy. Well-balanced on the palate,<br />
powerful structure, ripe acidity, fine spice and minerality.<br />
Harmonious example of its terroir and provenance.<br />
13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
90 2018 »M« Geisenheim Mönchspfad<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
On the nose toasty aromas from wood-ageing, green walnut,<br />
also melon and smoky notes. Creamy, full-bodied and juicy<br />
on the palate, judicious use of wood that lends structure;<br />
well-integrated power. Pinot blanc with potential and that<br />
would pair well with food. Young. 13,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
91 2016 »M« Geisenheim Mäuerchen<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Compact and intense nose, black cherry and blackberry, obvious<br />
spice and also smoke. On the palate robust with spice<br />
91 2018 Winkel Hasensprung<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Ripe yellow fruit on the nose, some flint and also herbs.<br />
Multi-layered on the palate with well-woven components -<br />
fruit, acidity and phenolic elements are balanced. Dry and<br />
with good density and minerality, long on the palate. Ageing<br />
potential. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
484 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
SOLVEIGS<br />
Rheingau | WINERIES<br />
Rheinstrasse 7c, 65366 Geisenheim<br />
T: +49 (6701) 2024183, mail@solveigs.de<br />
solveigs.info<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Jens Heinemeyer<br />
Contact: Jens Heinemeyer<br />
Hectares: 2 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
This tiny estate, with its cellar in Geisenheim<br />
and its vineyards in Lorch and Assmannshausen<br />
sent us excerpts of its<br />
past oeuvre – some of which are still available<br />
– for tasting. Those who don’t believe that German<br />
Spätburgunder can age, would do well to<br />
taste the 2013 vintage from the Presenteberg<br />
site (“Present”). It is fascinating what combination<br />
of depth and elegance Spätburgunder<br />
grown on slate can attain if they are made according<br />
to the criteria of minimal winemaking.<br />
98 2013 »Present« Pinot Noir trocken<br />
Mineral notes to the fore on the nose, flinty and slate-spicy,<br />
plus small red berries, chocolate and juniper. On the palate<br />
there is rich, but fine tannin, a lot of suppleness, lively acidity.<br />
Absolutely exceptional presence and length. Great!<br />
13,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€€€<br />
95 2013 »Micke« Pinot Noir trocken<br />
Cranberry, smoky wood and minty tones. Red and black currant.<br />
When allowed to breathe, more and more herbal spice<br />
apparent. On the palate, a union of contrasts: dense yet fine,<br />
powerful yet weightless, already slightly textured tannin,<br />
mineral foundation. 13,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€€€<br />
92 »Rosa von P« Pinot Noir trocken 2017<br />
94 2015 »Steil« Pinot Noir trocken<br />
93 2013 »Koloss« Pinot Noir Précoce trocken<br />
93 2016 »Steil« Pinot Noir trocken<br />
92 2013 »Steil« Pinot Noir trocken<br />
92 2014 »Phyllit« Pinot Noir trocken<br />
91 2011 »Koloss« Pinot Noir Précoce trocken<br />
95 2016 »Present« Pinot Noir trocken<br />
Pure slate spice on the nose: red and black currant, mint,<br />
menthol and thyme. The palate shows homogeneous texture,<br />
suppleness and fine-grained tannin in intimate liaison,<br />
firm acid backbone, dense, warm fruit, plus cool minerality.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
95 2016 »Micke« Pinot Noir trocken<br />
Raspberry, rose, mint, thyme, dried orange peel, a true firework<br />
of scents. The palate starts off creamily and is then<br />
characterised by the finest, velvety tannin, ripe acidity, tobacco<br />
and elderberry aromas as well as palpable minerality<br />
on the finish. Ready to drink! 13,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
92 2017 »Phyllit« Pinot Noir trocken<br />
A seemingly “cool”, but also complex spicy nose, juniper<br />
and mint, plus small red berries. Very juicy on the palate,<br />
fine-grained tannin, ripe acidity, tangible mineral finish. At<br />
the beginning of drinking maturity, but still has many years<br />
ahead of it. 12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
485
WEINGUT JOSEF SPREITZER<br />
Rheingaustrasse 86, 65375 Oestrich<br />
T: +49 (6723) 2625, info@weingut-spreitzer.de<br />
www.weingut-spreitzer.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9– 12 hrs and<br />
13.30–18.30 hrs, Saturdays 10–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Andreas Spreitzer<br />
Contact: Bernd Spreitzer<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 190,000 (95 % white, 5 % red)/28 ha<br />
Sometimes it is wonderful when nothing<br />
changes. Last year we noted: “Andreas<br />
and Bernd Spreitzer remain guarantors<br />
for high class Riesling pleasure at fairly calculated<br />
prices.” We simply cannot add more. Apart<br />
from the fact, perhaps, that the 2019 wines even<br />
have a touch more brilliance. Once again, the<br />
“Alte Reben” Riesling from the Doosberg site<br />
are outstanding – denoting the style of the entire<br />
mid-segment. Among the Grosse Gewächse, it<br />
is the Mittelheimer St. Nikolaus with its smooth,<br />
mineral character that takes the top spot. The<br />
noble sweet wines are balanced, full-bodied and<br />
layered. Congratulations!<br />
94 2019 Mittelheim St. Nikolaus Riesling GG<br />
Complex and clear: rosehip and orange marmalade, allspice,<br />
rose, beeswax. On the palate dense, slightly phenolic, juiciness<br />
and suppleness are combined, delicious mineral hue.<br />
The body has power but remains lean and light. Terpenic layers<br />
on the finish. 13 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
93 2019 Hattenheim Wisselbrunnen Riesling GG<br />
Clear, medium yellow. On the nose ripe, yellow fruit, mango,<br />
peach, plus some white nougat. Juice and tension on the palate,<br />
mineral, ripe citrus fruit, delicious phenolic layer. Refined.<br />
Length with good acidity. Will develop nicely.<br />
13 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
98 2019 Oestrich Lenchen Riesling TBA<br />
Clear honey yellow. On the nose dried fruits, apricot, fir honey,<br />
date. Dense, powerful but fine and with candied citrus<br />
fruit. Supple texture on the palate, oily, dense, dried fruits.<br />
Fine vein of acidity provides tension. Big wine, lots of potential.<br />
7 Vol.-%, cork, €€€€<br />
97 2019 Hallgarten Hendelberg Riesling TBA<br />
Clear, dark-honey yellow. On the nose deep, dark spice, fir<br />
honey, dried tropical fruits, papaya, roasted almond; dense<br />
and vivacious. On the palate dense texture, powerful fruit<br />
sweetness, taut vein of acidity, densely woven, long, with<br />
enormous potential. 7,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€€€<br />
93 2019 Oestrich Rosengarten Riesling GG<br />
91 2019 »Alte Reben« Winkel Jesuitengarten<br />
Riesling feinherb<br />
91 2019 »Alte Reben« Hallgarten Hendelberg<br />
Riesling Erste Lage trocken<br />
90 2019 »Buntschiefer« Hallgarten<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 »Muschelkalk« Oestrich Riesling tr.<br />
93 2019 Oestrich Lenchen Riesling Auslese<br />
93 2019 »303« Oestrich Lenchen<br />
Riesling Spätlese<br />
92 2019 »Alte Reben« Oestrich Doosberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Rich, clear yellow. Mineral nose, flint, lime, pineapple, papaya,<br />
stimulating, rich. On the palate - centred, ripe acidity,<br />
mineral coolness, citrus fruits, densely woven structure,<br />
powerful and harmonious. Long, a wine with a lot of potential.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
486 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGÜTER WEGELER<br />
GUTSHAUS RHEINGAU<br />
Rheingau | WINERIES<br />
Friedensplatz 9-11, 65375 Oestrich-Winkel<br />
T: +49 (6723) 99090, info@wegeler.com<br />
www.wegeler.com<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–17 hrs,<br />
Saturdays and Sundays 11–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Michael Burgdorf, Andreas Holderrieth<br />
Contact: Tom Drieseberg<br />
Hectares: 45 ha<br />
The industrious understatement projected<br />
by the headquarters of this Oestich<br />
winery, looking on the placid Friedensplatz<br />
in the village, can also be found in the<br />
wines. They never come across as loud or mercantile<br />
and yet they always manage to bring a<br />
kind of gustatory common sense into the<br />
glasss. The 2019 vintage is no exception, you<br />
can taste that these wines are made with solid<br />
craft. No wonder that the branded wines like<br />
“Geheimrat J” and “Pur” also score well. This<br />
year, the Riesling from the Geisenheimer<br />
Rothenberg site clearly emerges from the<br />
shadows of the other Rüdesheim sites!<br />
94 2019 Geisenheim Rothenberg Riesling GG<br />
Multifaceted. Slightly earthy tones mingle with apple, cider<br />
and some yeast. Then it continues with strong palpable minerality,<br />
penetrating acidity and good concentration. A great<br />
arc of tension, but also with a pleasant delicacy.<br />
13 Vol.-%, cork, €€€€<br />
94 2019 Rüdesheim Berg Schlossberg<br />
Riesling GG<br />
Complex bouquet, deep and lively. Many herbs such as chamomile<br />
and lavender are vivid. Gripping and inviting. Mouthwatering,<br />
mineral, still somewhat acidic but very well-harmonised.<br />
Even at this early stage, a great wine.<br />
13 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
97 2019 Geisenheim Rothenberg Riesling<br />
Trockenbeerenauslese Grosse Lage<br />
Dried pear, panforte on the nose. On the palate there is<br />
creaminess and piercing acidity. The palate shows enormous<br />
concentration, almost painfully extract-rich, pithy acidity, intense<br />
sweetness. Still rather closed, but with immense potential.<br />
6,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€€€<br />
94 2019 Geisenheim Rothenberg<br />
Riesling Auslese Grosse Lage<br />
Delicious botrytis notes, baked apple, sultana; very nuanced<br />
on the nose. On the palate it is finely-tuned - mineral-salty,<br />
juicy acidity, silky sweetness. A delicious wine that defines itself<br />
through ethereal elegance. 7 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
93 2019 Winkel Jesuitengarten Riesling GG<br />
92 2018 »Geheimrat J« Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 Oestrich Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 Johannisberg Riesling feinherb<br />
92 2019 Rüdesheim Berg Rottland Riesling<br />
Spätlese Grosse Lage<br />
90 2019 Rüdesheim Berg Schlossberg<br />
Riesling Kabinett Grosse Lage<br />
90 2019 »Pur« Geisenheim Riesling<br />
Incense and dried lemon peel, Rheingau spice undertones.<br />
Lightweight and elegant on the palate, lively acid backbone,<br />
fine petillance freshness. The sweetness is subtly-integrated<br />
and remains in the background. It is really pure<br />
and stimulating to drink. 11,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
487
WEINGUT ROBERT WEIL<br />
Mühlberg 5, 65399 Kiedrich<br />
T: +49 (6123) 2308, info@weingut-robert-weil.com<br />
www.weingut-robert-weil.com<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–17.30 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–17 hrs, Sundays 11–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Christian Engel, Fabian Kretschmer<br />
Contact: Wilhelm Weil, Jochen Becker-Köhn<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 650,000 (100 % white)/90 ha<br />
This Kiedrich estate presents itself unchanged<br />
and in finest fettle: the Grosses<br />
Gewächs from the Gräfenberg site<br />
moves into a score territory that is usually reserved<br />
for noble sweet wines. The Erste Lage<br />
Turmberg displays a stature that is more usually<br />
found in Grosse Gewächse. Last but not<br />
least, Weil also presents an estate Riesling<br />
whose juicy character leaves nothing to be desired.<br />
We could also point you to the Spätlese<br />
from the Gräfenberg which comes with 20 to<br />
30 years of ageing potential. Wilhelm Weil and<br />
his entire team deserve the utmost respect.<br />
97 2019 Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling GG<br />
Discreet mineral notes, floral, orange peel. Complex, but still<br />
undeveloped. On the palate almost astringent and dense, relentlessly<br />
supple and mineral; an almost painfully dense offering<br />
over a smooth-sweet foundation, with crunchy acidity<br />
and impeccable balance. 13 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
98 2019 Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling TBA<br />
Amber colour. Menthol, porcini mushroom, sultana and, with<br />
aeration, more and more emerging herbal spiciness. Viscous<br />
on the palate, balm-like, yet huge freshness, crunchy acidity,<br />
intense minerality. Will live forever. 7,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€€€<br />
97 2019 Kiedrich Gräfenberg<br />
Riesling Beerenauslese<br />
Amber-coloured, clear. On the nose highly concentrated<br />
dried fruits, apricot kernel, fir honey, acacia, sultana. On the<br />
palate enormous volume, balsamic texture, held by virile<br />
acidity, dried fruits, dense, big. Long finish - made for eternity.<br />
7,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€€€<br />
97 2019 Kiedrich Turmberg<br />
Riesling Beerenauslese<br />
Floral notes on the nose, mirabelle plum, sultana. On the palate<br />
a lot of texture, elegant and dense at the same time, steely<br />
acidity, accompanied by concentrated fruit. A giant in the guise<br />
of a ballerina. Very, very long finish. 7,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€€€<br />
94 2019 Kiedrich Turmberg Riesling<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
92 2019 Kiedrich Klosterberg Riesling<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
90 2019 Kiedrich Riesling trocken<br />
97 2019 Kiedrich Turmberg<br />
Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese<br />
95 2019 Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling Auslese<br />
94 2019 Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling<br />
Spätlese<br />
93 2019 Kiedrich Turmberg Riesling Auslese<br />
90 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
Blood orange, lemon peel, fragrant and even slightly mineral.<br />
On the palate a delicious and soft start, then a lively<br />
thread of acidity follows. Juicy and yet medium in body and<br />
extract. A high-quality, very elegant Gutsriesling (i.e. estate<br />
Riesling). 12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
488 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT IM WEINEGG<br />
Rheingau | WINERIES<br />
Kirchstrasse 38, 65239 Hochheim am Main<br />
T: +49 (6146) 9072229, f.schmidt@weingut-weinegg.de<br />
www.weingut-weinegg.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Fabian Schmidt<br />
Contact: Fabian Schmidt<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 50,000 (85 % white, 15 % red)/6 ha<br />
Year on year, the wines made by Fabian<br />
Schmidt at Weingut Im Weinegg gain<br />
more profile. They show that this winemaker<br />
has mastered all disciplines, whether<br />
that is Riesling in dry, off-dry or sweet styles:<br />
they all show structure, depth and individual<br />
character – like his “Stückfass” from the<br />
Hochheimer Reichestal site. His Auslese from<br />
the same site is delicious. Fabian Schmidt<br />
started this winery in 2009 and his sensitive<br />
use of wood is part of his house style. His red<br />
wines, like the astonishingly clear and fresh<br />
Merlot, are also well made. Chapeau!<br />
91 2019 »Stückfass« Hochheim Reichestal<br />
Riesling feinherb<br />
Clear, pale yellow. On the nose fine bright fruit, peach blossom,<br />
some lemon balm. On the palate a lot of texture, fine<br />
fruit and delicious phenolics, smooth sweetness with some<br />
tangerine and honey. Good structure, elegant, ends gently<br />
and in a long finish. 12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
90 2019 Hochheim Hölle Riesling trocken<br />
Herbs on the nose, stone fruit, peach, apricot and papaya,<br />
also some fine malt. Lean and tightly-built on the palate with<br />
juice, clear fruit and ripe, vivid acidity, discreet residual<br />
sweetness. Good substance, also phenolic and mineral. Still<br />
young, will evolve. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
90 2018 Hochheim Reichestal Merlot trocken<br />
Fruity and herbaceous nose, black cherry, blackcurrant and<br />
blackberry, fine smoke and toasty aromas. Powerful and vivid<br />
on the palate. Good balance of substance and freshness, the<br />
fruit is clear and pure; individual Merlot with expression.<br />
14 Vol.-%, DIAM, €€<br />
92 2019 Hochheim Reichestal Riesling Auslese<br />
Rich yellow. On the nose blossom honey, dried apricot, wet,<br />
hot stone, sultana. Very intense and fine. On the palate first<br />
dried fruit, then fine texture and lively acidity, smoke, honey.<br />
Good structure and length. Has potential. 10,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
90 2018 »Perle Blanche« Hochheim<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 »Stückfass« Hochheim Hölle<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 Hochheim Riesling feinherb<br />
88 2019 Hochheim Riesling trocken<br />
88 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 Hochheim Spätburgunder trocken<br />
90 2018 Hochheim Hölle Riesling Spätlese<br />
90 2019 »Sur Lie« Hochheim Hofmeister<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Apricot, peach and also mango on the fruity nose. Well-balanced<br />
on the palate. The juicy fruit blends with pleasant<br />
acidity in a lean texture. Fine spice, clear in expression and<br />
also with mineral hints; a lot of wine for the money.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
489
GRIESEL & COMPAGNIE<br />
Grieselstasse 34, 64625 Bensheim<br />
T: +49 (6251) 8696890, info@griesel-sekt.de<br />
www.griesel-sekt.de<br />
Cellar Door: Wednesdays through Fridays 15–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–14 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Rachele Crosara<br />
Contact: Niko Brandner<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 85,000 (100 % white)/15 ha<br />
Within the space of a few short years,<br />
the labels of this Sekt estate in Bensheim<br />
have become a real promise<br />
that prompts most pleasant sensations of anticipation<br />
in connoisseurs of Sekt. This unusual<br />
ascent is certainly down to lots of hard work<br />
and also a good portion of entrepreneurial vision<br />
– but it would not have been possible<br />
without the sensitivity that is expressed in the<br />
balance of all the cuvées. The German Sparkling<br />
world is decidedly richer with the existence<br />
of the sophisticated sparkling Riesling<br />
that is the 2013 Réserve –“Dosage Zéro” – to<br />
name just one wine. This is the way to go!<br />
93 2013 »Riesling Réserve Dosage Zéro«<br />
Complex on the nose. Fine spice, herbs, some yellow fruit,<br />
citrus notes, light tobacco leaves. Complex and focused at<br />
the same time. Concentrated fruit, citrus and tart nuances,<br />
some zest and stone fruit. Unique style with wonderfully taut<br />
and finely salty acidity. 12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€€€<br />
90 2017 »Blanc de Noirs Tradition« brut<br />
93 2016 »Pinot Prestige« brut nature<br />
Complex and nuanced with hints of black fruit, spice and<br />
notes of apple. Fine yeast and minerality. Elegant, powerful<br />
and full on the palate. Concentrated fruit, wonderfully focused,<br />
juicy and citrusy with crunchy acidity.<br />
12 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
91 2016 »Chardonnay Prestige« brut nature<br />
Balance and depth in the bouquet. Nuanced, yet at the same<br />
time there is a certain power and concentration with fine<br />
spiciness and minerality. Apple, citrus fruit. On the palate a<br />
lively acid structure, a rather fine mousse with juiciness and<br />
tartness. 12 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
92 2016 »Rosé Prestige« extra brut<br />
Fine complexity and spiciness on the nose. Notes of rosehip,<br />
apple, some herbs. Juicy on the palate with a crunchy acid<br />
structure, slightly drying, beautiful phenolic in the middle.<br />
Citrusy, finely spicy, captivating, complex. Great!<br />
12 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
92 2017 Griesel & Co Tradition Riesling brut<br />
The nose is fragrant, fine and complex: flowers, quince, apple,<br />
pear, meadow herbs, brioche. Spicy on the palate with<br />
concentrated bright fruit, juicy apple. Acidic traction and<br />
mineral saltiness that are more pronounced in the finish.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
490 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
HESSISCHE BERGSTRASSE | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT SCHLOSS SCHÖNBERG<br />
Lahnstrasse 27–29, 64625 Bensheim<br />
T: +49 (176) 20454340, info@schloss-schoenberg.com<br />
www.schloss-schoenberg.com<br />
Cellar Door: Fridays 15–18 hrs, Saturdays 10–14 hrs and<br />
by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Rabea Trautmann<br />
Contact: Rabea Trautmann<br />
Hectares: 23 ha<br />
A<br />
very sensitive touch can be made out<br />
in each of the wines presented. This<br />
care, especially when it comes to the<br />
clarity of the wines, is telling, as is the equally<br />
sensitive use of fine, smoky oak. Rabea Trautmann,<br />
the young cellar master, deliberately<br />
hones both her craft and style. Hiring her, just<br />
like hiring the right winemaker at Sekthaus<br />
Griesel & Compagnie, was a clever move.<br />
What we see is a very deliberate forming of individual<br />
quality, with a real step up between<br />
estate and village wines which will benefit<br />
from further bottle age.<br />
91 2018 Auerbach Silvaner trocken<br />
Smoky, but fine, oak notes still dominate on the nose, yet fine<br />
pear fruit shimmers through. The oak has yet to be integrated<br />
on the palate, too, but the finest phenolics, fruit fullness<br />
and a certain delicacy are promising. 12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 Spätburgunder Rosé trocken<br />
91 2017 Auerbach Grauburgunder trocken<br />
The gentle smoke of fine oak mingles on the nose with notes<br />
of textured butter and ripe, yellow pear. The palate then<br />
combines its very own slenderness and clarity with these<br />
round, generous elements. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
90 2017 Auerbach Auerbach<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Both lemon peel and a hint of dried fruit dance on the nose.<br />
The slender palate is enriched by the flavours, but brightens<br />
them up with its clear freshness and just thrives on its delicacy.<br />
Finally, there is a little butter on the finish.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
92 2018 Auerbach Höllberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Juicy, ripe Morello cherry flirts from the glasss. A little smoky<br />
almond is also animating. The essential elements of Pinot Noir<br />
are depicted wonderfully; has freshness and texture. And that<br />
in a vintage like 2018 - hats off!! 13,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
88 2019 Grauburgunder trocken<br />
The nose is restrained, a little earthy, but doesn't reveal<br />
much else. The palate is wonderfully lean, juicy, without an<br />
ounce of fat. This makes it an atypical, yet incredibly animating,<br />
representative of this variety, characterised by<br />
freshness. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
491
RHEINGAU, HESSISCHE BERGSTRASSE<br />
Eberbach<br />
PASSIONATE<br />
HOSTS<br />
TOGETHER WITH THE REGION’S WINEMAKERS – ABSOLUTE EXPERTS<br />
WHEN IT COMES TO GASTRONOMY – FALSTAFF HAS CAREFULLY CHOSEN<br />
AND COLLATED THE BEST ADDRESSES FOR EATING,<br />
DRINKING AND STAYING.<br />
Blauer Aff <br />
64625 Bensheim<br />
The atmospheric traditional restaurant in the blue<br />
half-timbered house has plenty of classics on the<br />
menu. These include, of course, wild boar sausages<br />
and the rump steak ‘Selektion Blauer Aff’. The<br />
wine list is mainly made up of local wines.<br />
Drei Birken<br />
69488 Birkenau<br />
In elegant surroundings, chef Karl Gassen serves<br />
upscale cooking – and he has stood for such quality<br />
for many years. Meanwhile, his wife Christine<br />
lovingly and charmingly looks after the guests<br />
and also gives excellent advice on wine.<br />
Kappengasse 2<br />
+49 (6251) 72958<br />
www.blauer-aff.de<br />
<br />
Food: 41 | 50<br />
Service: 17 | 20<br />
Drinks: 17 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
83<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
Hauptstrasse 170<br />
+49 (6201) 32368<br />
www.restaurant-drei-birken.de<br />
Recommended by: Falstaff-Redaktion<br />
492 falstaff<br />
Wine Guide Germany 2021
| INNS AND RESTAURANTS<br />
Baiken<br />
65343 Eltville<br />
One of the best Gutsschänken (winery inns) of the<br />
Rheingau. With a magnificent view of the Rhine<br />
valley and looked after by friendly, competent<br />
staff, guests enjoy down-to-earth cuisine with a<br />
difference, made from first-rate ingredients. Daily<br />
specials complement the attractive menu.<br />
65347 Eltville<br />
Kronenschlösschen Bistro<br />
In addition to the gourmet restaurant, the more<br />
casual and elegant bistro is one of the best addresses<br />
in the Rheingau. The international menu classics<br />
served here are executed expertly and the sensational<br />
wine list leaves nothing to be desired.<br />
Wiesweg 86<br />
+49 (6123) 900345<br />
www.baiken.de<br />
Rheinallee<br />
+49 (6723) 640<br />
www.kronenschloesschen.de<br />
Recommended by: Kloster Eberbach<br />
Jean<br />
65343 Eltville<br />
In addition to a café with its own patisserie, the family-run<br />
hotel right next to the train station also<br />
includes Johannes Frankenbach's gourmet restaurant<br />
in the former Weinstube. His cuisine is<br />
classically French and the dishes are perfectly executed.<br />
Recommended by: Falstaff-Redaktion<br />
65346 Eltville am Rhein<br />
Schwarzes Häuschen<br />
Enclosed by a wall, the Steinberg was the house<br />
vineyard of the Cistercians in the nearby Eberbach<br />
monastery. Today, you can taste the wines of<br />
the Hessische Staatsdomäne here at the Schwarzes<br />
Häuschen, plus small snacks and a beautiful<br />
view of the vineyards.<br />
Wilhelmstrasse 13<br />
+49 (6123) 9040<br />
www.hotel-frankenbach.de<br />
Domäne Steinberg<br />
+49 (6123) 9997065<br />
www.kloster-eberbach.de<br />
Recommended by: Falstaff-Redaktion<br />
Kronenschlösschen<br />
65347 Eltville<br />
The stylish boutique hotel has two excellent restaurants.<br />
The stylish bistro offers very well-executed<br />
classics, while the kitchen of the gourmet restaurant<br />
skilfully plays with creativity and inventiveness.<br />
First-class service, sensational wine list.<br />
Recommended by: Falstaff-Redaktion<br />
60311 Frankfurt am Main<br />
Heimat Essen & Weine<br />
Furnished in a 1950s style, this restaurant has a<br />
nostalgic flair and is a popular spot for all those<br />
who appreciate good cuisine. In a relaxed atmosphere,<br />
you can enjoy international classics, brasserie-style<br />
dishes and regional specialities.<br />
Rheinallee<br />
+49 (6723) 640<br />
www.kronenschloesschen.de<br />
Berliner Strasse 70<br />
+49 (69) 29725994<br />
www.heimat-restaurant.de<br />
Recommended by: Falstaff-Redaktion<br />
Recommended by: Georg Gustav Huff<br />
80–84<br />
85–89<br />
90–94<br />
95–100 Points<br />
493
Burgrestaurant<br />
Schwarzenstein <br />
65366 Geisenheim<br />
This castle restaurant offers a magnificent view<br />
over Johannisberg into the Rhine valley. The gastronomic<br />
prospects are excellent as well, with beautifully<br />
seasoned home-cooking with a fine flair<br />
coming from the kitchen. The wine list leaves<br />
hardly anything to be desired.<br />
Weinschänke<br />
Schloss Groenesteyn <br />
65399<br />
Kiedrich<br />
Dirk Schröer serves his imaginative and creative<br />
cooking, always prepared with a touch of sophistication<br />
from first-rate produce, in a sophisticated<br />
and stylish setting. The set menu is an excellent<br />
choice here, and the friendly staff will recommend<br />
the right wine.<br />
Rosengasse 32<br />
+49 (6722) 99500<br />
www.burg-schwarzenstein.de<br />
Food: 44 | 50<br />
Service: 17 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 9 | 10<br />
Oberstrasse 36<br />
+49 (6123) 1533<br />
www.groenesteyn.net<br />
Food: 44 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 19 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
<br />
88<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
<br />
89<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
65366 Geisenheim<br />
Schlossschänke Johannisberg<br />
The terrace of the estate restaurant offers one of<br />
the most beautiful views of the Rhine valley and,<br />
with a little luck, you can get a seat here even without<br />
a reservation. The menu features regional<br />
and hearty classics, accompanied by Schloss Johannisberg<br />
wine, of course.<br />
Schloss Johannisberg<br />
+49 (6722) 96090<br />
www.gerdkaefer-rolandkuffler.de<br />
Recommended by: Domäne Schloss Johannisberg<br />
Adler<br />
Wirtschaft <br />
65347 Hattenheim<br />
In the atmospheric and cosily-decorated inn,<br />
guests can always rely on the quality of the produce.<br />
The meat comes from the restaurant's own<br />
farm while most of the wines come from the family<br />
estate in Oberbergen, Baden.<br />
Weinwirtschaft<br />
Laquai<br />
<br />
65391 Lorch<br />
The small half-timbered house is usually a hive of<br />
activity: Susanne Laquai and her team keep the<br />
guests in a good mood with hearty food and delicious<br />
wine. Classic Wisper Valley trout, rump<br />
steak and venison sausages are menu favourites.<br />
Hauptstrasse 31<br />
+49 (6723) 7982<br />
www.franzkeller.de<br />
Food: 44 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
Schwalbacher Strasse 20<br />
+49 (6726) 839213<br />
www.weingut-laquai.de<br />
Food: 42 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
<br />
88<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
<br />
86<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
494 falstaff<br />
Wine Guide Germany 2021
| INNS AND RESTAURANTS<br />
Brentanohaus <br />
65375<br />
Oestrich-Winkel<br />
The Allendorf family's smart wine bar is a gastronomic<br />
hotspot in the Rheingau. Not only does the<br />
estate's kitchen serve tasty and delicious regional<br />
dishes, the first-rate wine selection also offers the<br />
right wine for every taste.<br />
Zwei Mohren<br />
65385 Rüdesheim<br />
In this comfortably furnished restaurant, chef<br />
Torsten Schambach offers down-to-earth cooking<br />
such as braised beef roulade with beans and mashed<br />
potatoes, spit-roast, rump steak with herb<br />
butter and, of course, an Assmannshäuser red<br />
wine cake to finish.<br />
Am Lindenplatz 2<br />
+49 (6723) 88540<br />
www.brentanohaus.de<br />
<br />
Breuer's<br />
Rüdesheimer Schloss <br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
87<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
65385<br />
Rüdesheim<br />
In the middle of Drosselgasse, the Rüdesheimer<br />
Schloss is an oasis of good taste. The wine list is<br />
varied and offers vintage depth. The menu features<br />
classic, hearty dishes that always come with a<br />
subtle contemporary touch.<br />
Rheinuferstrasse 1<br />
+49 (6722) 9020<br />
www.hotel-zweimohren.de<br />
Recommended by: Falstaff-Redaktion<br />
Steingasse 10<br />
+49 (6722) 90500<br />
www.ruedesheimer-schloss.com<br />
<br />
Food: 42 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 19 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
87<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
Schloss Johannisberg<br />
80–84<br />
85–89<br />
90–94<br />
95–100 Points<br />
495
Zur Schlupp <br />
65396 Walluf<br />
In summer, you can take a seat in the lovely inner<br />
courtyard. The wine list, which Isabell Ehrhardt<br />
has put together with great sensitivity, has grown<br />
to more than 120 bins. Her husband Michael in<br />
the kitchen loves braised dishes and so do his<br />
guests.<br />
Wellenlänge<br />
65428 Rüsselsheim<br />
Furnished with great taste, the restaurant impresses<br />
with its modern and elegant ambience. A feelgood<br />
oasis that is also up-to-date in culinary<br />
terms. The ambitious cooking offers both regional<br />
dishes and international classics.<br />
Hauptstrasse 25<br />
+49 (6123) 72638<br />
www.gasthauszurschlupp.de<br />
<br />
Landhaus Diedert <br />
Food: 42 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
86<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
65195<br />
Wiesbaden<br />
The French-style country house has flair and is a<br />
popular destination with its beautiful garden and<br />
terrace shaded by trees. The gastronomic offer is<br />
varied and features well-executed modern country<br />
house cuisine from predominantly regional<br />
produce.<br />
Mainstrasse 17<br />
+49 (6142) 961280<br />
www.hoellammain.de<br />
Mo bis Sa 17.30–23 Uhr<br />
Recommended by: Falstaff-Redaktion<br />
Landgraf <br />
64342 Seeheim-<br />
Jugenheim<br />
The atmosphere in this newly-renovated restaurant<br />
is always cheerful. This is down to its varied<br />
country cooking including juicy steaks and delicious<br />
schnitzel, great game dishes from the Odenwald,<br />
along with first-class fish dishes.<br />
Am Kloster Klarenthal 9<br />
+49 (611) 1846600<br />
www.landhaus-diedert.de<br />
<br />
Weinhaus Sinz <br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 9 | 10<br />
88<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
65201 Wiesbaden<br />
This friendly family-run restaurant is known for<br />
its excellent seasonal and regional cooking and<br />
booking ahead is highly recommended. Everything<br />
is homemade, the delicious game dishes are<br />
recommended during the hunting season.<br />
Felsbergstrasse 49<br />
+49 (6257) 5051795<br />
www.gasthaus-landgraf.de<br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 17 | 20<br />
Drinks: 17 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
Herrnbergstrasse 17<br />
+49 (611) 942890<br />
www.weinhaus-sinz.de<br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
<br />
85<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
<br />
87<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
496 falstaff<br />
Wine Guide Germany 2021
SPACE FOR YOUR<br />
WINE NOTES<br />
497
RHEIN-<br />
HESSEN<br />
IN THE NAME OF BIODYNAMICS<br />
Photo: WSNA
Both Johann Wolfgang von Goethe and Carl Zuckmayer<br />
had an appreciation for Nierstein wines. Here a view<br />
of the Roter Hang, or Red Slope<br />
RELUCTANT ACCEPTANCE<br />
Rheinhessen claims to be particularly dynamic and innovative. Yet, natural<br />
winemakers are still in defensive mode.<br />
WORDS RAINER SCHÄFER<br />
Harvest on the Roter Hang, or Red<br />
Slope, “came and went in a<br />
fairy-tale fashion,” Kai Schätzel<br />
says. Yet he adamantly refuses to join the<br />
annually recurring proclamation of yet<br />
another ‘vintage of the century’. “Almost<br />
everyone now grows great fruit,” says this<br />
winemaker from Nierstein who also is<br />
deputy chairman of the VDP in Rheinhessen.<br />
Rheinhessen is now seen as a dynamic<br />
region where much change is afoot.<br />
“We basically invented the ‘Jungwinzer’ –<br />
or ‘the young winemaker’,” the 41-yearold<br />
says to whom taking charge comes<br />
quite naturally.<br />
After Rheinhessen’s image was shaped for<br />
a number of years by winemakers like<br />
Klaus Peter Keller und Philipp Wittmann,<br />
Schätzel notes that he now sees “far more<br />
individuality following on from the Keller-<br />
Wittmann-style.” This is not without irony<br />
since Keller and Wittmann were once the<br />
avant-gardists of their time. However,<br />
Schätzel started fermenting wines on their<br />
skins ten years ago. His “oddball” wines<br />
were meant to provoke. Now, he says, he<br />
has enough experience to “make natural<br />
wines as standard.”<br />
The fact that a VDP winemaker dedicates<br />
himself to such a degree to natural wine<br />
may rile his fellow-members in particular<br />
– but for Schätzel this does not constitute<br />
a contradiction. He notes that, after all,<br />
the VDP emerged from the former<br />
Verband Deutscher Naturweinversteigerer<br />
(Association of Natural Wine Auctioneers)<br />
– even though in those days ‘natural’ had<br />
a different definition, it meant unadultered,<br />
unenriched wines, and, says Schätzel,<br />
natural wines reflected current societal<br />
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RHEINHESSEN | A PORTRAIT OF THE REGION<br />
xxxx<br />
challenges best: “we no longer have to<br />
discuss the classification pyramid; in<br />
times of climate change, burning forests<br />
and vineyards we have to face the real<br />
topics.”<br />
Kai Schätzel is not blinded by<br />
Rheinhessen’s successful trajectory, either.<br />
On the contrary, he is convinced that<br />
viticulture has to change fundamentally:<br />
nobody can afford to ignore rising must<br />
weights, dry stress, sunburn, increasing<br />
water demand and different pH-levels in<br />
the vineyards any longer. “Viticulture as<br />
we know it will soon be a thing of the<br />
past,” Schätzel says, even if many growers<br />
“rather faff around with its effects” while<br />
hoping that things change back again.<br />
Schätzel prefers to turn his gaze south to<br />
hotter wine regions. He looks into dry<br />
farming on the Red Slope and<br />
“climate-adapted cultivation”. His<br />
vineyards are farmed according to an<br />
“anti-stress-system” that takes the vines<br />
into a “naturally protective state”: It is an<br />
almost pergola-like training within a<br />
“shaded system” – he does not want to<br />
“force his vines into an artificial shape<br />
and steal their leaves” which only prompts<br />
them to grow more leaves and use more<br />
For VDP-member Kai Schätzel, the concepts<br />
of this elite association and natural wines<br />
are not mutually exclusive<br />
water. Schätzel is aware of the effects his<br />
farming methods have on the outside<br />
world: “Many winemakers feel attacked.”<br />
In the south of the region, in the<br />
Wonnegau, Bianka and Daniel Schmitt of<br />
bio-estate Weingut Schmitt in<br />
Flörsheim-Dalsheim work according to<br />
biodynamic principles. Hungarian-born<br />
Bianka studied oenology in Budapest and<br />
met Daniel in Rheinhessen in 2012. From<br />
Photos: Shutterstock, Weingut Riffel/Nils Weiler sixdesign 2018, provided<br />
Daniel and Bianka Schmitt run their Demeter-certified<br />
estate according to the motto “nothing but the grape”<br />
501
Björn, Corina and Tobias Knewitz<br />
of Weingut Knewitz<br />
then onwards a passion for “unadulterated<br />
wines that are created within a real<br />
balance between humans and nature” has<br />
connected them. They also think that<br />
biodynamic farming helps them deal<br />
better with the effects of climate change.<br />
“The immune system of the vines is<br />
boosted that way,” explains 29-year-old<br />
Bianka. “They have the ability to react<br />
and become more resilient of their own<br />
accord.” Bianka and Daniel Schmitt work<br />
with skin-contact and skin-fermentation,<br />
using barrels and amphorae. “We reject<br />
stainless steel due to its reductive<br />
properties,” Bianka emphasizes, because,<br />
she says, wines need oxygen, otherwise<br />
they become asphyxiated. “Dead natural<br />
wine is the worst thing you can drink,”<br />
RHEINHESSEN WINE REGION<br />
Growing area<br />
approx. 26,500 hectares<br />
Administrative Split<br />
3 districts (Bereich), 23 collective sites<br />
(Grosslage), 414 single sites (Einzellagen)<br />
Soils<br />
Limestone, rhyolite, porphyry, loess<br />
Important Grape Varieties<br />
Riesling, Silvaner, Weissburgunder,<br />
Spätburgunder<br />
Winegrowers’ Association<br />
Rheinhessenwein e.V.<br />
Otto-Lilienthal-Strasse 4<br />
55232 Alzey<br />
www.rheinhessenwein.de<br />
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RHEINHESSEN | A PORTRAIT OF THE REGION<br />
xxxx<br />
she says. Their wines are unfiltered and are<br />
either bottled without or minimal sulphur<br />
dioxide of 15mg/l. They have to be “clean<br />
and without faults”, Bianka says, noting<br />
that this is their top priority. They don’t<br />
want to make wines that are inaccessible,<br />
overthought and iconoclastic, no “they<br />
should be as clear as possible.” Their series<br />
of eminently gluggable “Frei.Körper.<br />
Kultur“ wines was especially developed<br />
for the German market, yet 95% of the<br />
wines are exported and shipped to 35<br />
countries. Germany is still a country of<br />
natural wine sceptics. “There is a lot of<br />
headwind here,” Bianka says. When she<br />
attended the oenological college in Alzey,<br />
she only met winemakers who worked<br />
conventionally. She remembers the<br />
indulgent smiles she had to endure for<br />
“doing things differently.” Initially the<br />
same was true in their village, “but by now,<br />
the other winemakers see that what we do<br />
actually works.” The Schmitts believe in<br />
their methods and philosophy. Next year<br />
they will move to the outskirts of<br />
Flörsheim-Dalsheim where they plan to<br />
have a Vinothek with a dining area for<br />
guest chefs and events – all in the name of<br />
biodynamics. “We want to introduce a<br />
different kind of culture and live more slowly<br />
and consciously,” Bianka Schmitt says.<br />
INFO<br />
To ensure optimal development of<br />
their wines, Weingut Schmitt counts<br />
on extended skin contact<br />
Read more about this author in our Tasting<br />
Panel chapter on page 12.<br />
Two estates, one couple and a common path: H. O. Spanier (Weingut<br />
Battenfeld-Spanier) and Caroline Spanier-Gillot (Weingut Kühling-Gillot)<br />
have farmed according to biodynamic principles for 15 years<br />
503
The Westhofener Kirchspiel site opens like and<br />
amphitheatre towards the river Rhine<br />
GRANDS CRUS – RHEINHESSEN<br />
TOP WINES FROM PRIVILEGED SITES OF THE REGION<br />
BINGEN | SCHARLACHBERG<br />
This site is named after the colour of<br />
its scarlet-red soils which are down to<br />
the high iron-oxide content of the<br />
weathered slate soils. The well-ventilated<br />
25ha/62acre vineyard is fully south- facing<br />
and rises from 110-200m/360-656ft with<br />
inclines between 5% to a staggering 60%.<br />
Seen from a geological perspective, the<br />
Scharlachberg thus has more in common<br />
with the Rheingau than with Rheinhessen.<br />
94 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Wagner-Stempel, wagner-stempel.de<br />
94 2018 Riesling trocken<br />
93 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
Weingut Riffel, further info on page 562<br />
93 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Kruger-Rumpf,<br />
www.kruger-rumpf.com<br />
93 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Bischel,further info on page 512<br />
93 2017 Riesling GG<br />
Schloss Wallhausen, Prinz zu Salm-Dalberg<br />
further info on page 308<br />
93 2019 »105 Grad« Riesling Auslese<br />
Weingut Riffel, further info on page 562<br />
92 2019 Riesling Auslese<br />
Schloss Wallhausen, further info on page 308<br />
92 2019 Riesling Auslese<br />
Weingut Bischel, further info on page 512<br />
92 2018 Riesling Auslese<br />
Vinothek und Weinschule Hemmes, info on page 538<br />
NACKENHEIM | ROTHENBERG<br />
This 16ha/39 acre site forms part of the Roter<br />
Hang, or Red Slope. It is named after the red<br />
soils of its iron-oxide rich rhyolite soils, a kind<br />
of sandstone. There are also stony slate veins.<br />
Rising from 50-150m/164-492ft, it faces<br />
north-east, east and south-east.<br />
95 2019 »wurzelecht« Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Kühling-Gillot, further info on page 550<br />
95 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Gunderloch, further info on page 533<br />
504 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
RHEINHESSEN | GRANDS CRUS<br />
NIERSTEIN | PETTENTHAL<br />
This 31ha/101 acre site forms part of the<br />
Red Slope and rises with inclines of up to<br />
70% from 50-170m/164-557ft. The upper<br />
steep parts are of rhyolite and and shale; the<br />
flatter, lower parts are alluvial with loam<br />
and clay. The slope, facing east, southeast<br />
and south, has almost-exposed rocks and<br />
very thin topsoils.<br />
97 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Gunderloch, further info on page 533<br />
95 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Kühling-Gillot, further info on page 550<br />
95 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Schätzel, further info on page 563<br />
93 2019 »Rehbacher Steig Sommerseite«<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Weingut Georg Gustav Huff, further info on page 542<br />
93 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Weingut St. Antony, further info on page 509<br />
93 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
Weingut Manz, further info on page 553<br />
92 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
Weingut Fritz Ekkehard Huff, further info on page 541<br />
92 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
Weingut Gehring, further info on page 528<br />
92 2015 Riesling trocken<br />
Louis Guntrum, further info on page 534<br />
92 2019 Riesling GG<br />
92 2018 Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Rappenhof, www.weingut-rappenhof.de<br />
91 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
Weingut Eckehart Gröhl, further info on page 532<br />
WESTHOFEN | KIRCHSPIEL<br />
A rather homogeneous site of 45ha/111<br />
acres that opens like an amphitheatre<br />
towards the river Rhine, facing east-southeast<br />
and rising from 120-200m/393-656ft<br />
at inclines between 10-30%. The poor soils<br />
consist of loam, clayey marl with calcareous<br />
inclusions and weathered limestone on solid<br />
limestone bedrock.<br />
95 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Wittmann, further info on page 575<br />
94 2019 Riesling Grande Réserve<br />
Weingut Groebe,<br />
www.weingut-k-f-groebe.de<br />
93 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
Katharina Wechsler, further info on page 572<br />
91 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Weedenborn, further info on page 573<br />
Bingen<br />
Rhine<br />
SCHARLACHBERG<br />
Nahe<br />
ROTHENBERG<br />
Nackenheim<br />
PETTENTHAL<br />
Nierstein<br />
Selz<br />
MORSTEIN<br />
KIRCHSPIEL<br />
HUBACKER<br />
Westhofen<br />
Flörlsheim-Dalsheim<br />
LIEBFRAUENSTIFT-<br />
KIRCHENSTÜCK<br />
Worms<br />
505
Nierstein, Hipping and Pettenthal<br />
WORMS |<br />
LIEBFRAUENSTIFT-KIRCHENSTÜCK<br />
This is the original and historic site of<br />
“Liebfraumilch“ fame. Formerly, the site<br />
covered 9ha/22 acres but was extended to<br />
17ha/42 acres. The soils are a mix of what<br />
the Rhine river brought here after being<br />
forced into curving west by the Taunus<br />
mountains: mineral-rich alluvial deposits of<br />
rhyolite, limestone, deep gravel and sand.<br />
93 2016 Riesling trocken<br />
Château Schembs, www.schembs-worms.de<br />
93 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Gutzler, www.gutzler.de<br />
93 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
Alexander Flick, further info on page 526<br />
93 2019 Riesling Alte Reben trocken<br />
Seehof – Familie Fauth, www.weingut-seehof.de<br />
92 2018 Riesling trocken<br />
Weingut Dreissigacker, www.dreissigacker-wein.de<br />
92 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
Cisterzienser Weingut Michel, further info on page 518<br />
92 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
Weingut Dieter Michel, further info on page 555<br />
91 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
Weingut Keth, further info on page 547<br />
WESTHOFEN | MORSTEIN<br />
The oldest single site in Westhofen, 144ha/356<br />
acres large, fully south-facing, rising from<br />
140-280m/459-918ft, from a glacial valley to<br />
a plateau. Only its core parcel of 50ha/123<br />
acres is considered special. The aquiferous<br />
limestone layers in the subsoil are covered in<br />
heavy, calcareous clay and marl.<br />
97 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Wittmann, further info on page 575<br />
94 2019 Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Gutzler, www.gutzler.de<br />
Liebfrauen-Kirchenstück<br />
506 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Rheinhessen | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT ACHENBACH<br />
Kirchgasse 1, 55599 Wonsheim<br />
T: +49 (6703) 707, info@weingut-achenbach.de<br />
www.weingut-achenbach.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Frank Achenbach<br />
Contact: The Achenbach family<br />
Hectares: 23 ha<br />
There is nothing mass-produced about<br />
the wines from Weingut Achenbach: all<br />
the wines made by cellar master Frank<br />
Achenbach, who also had stints in New Zealand<br />
and South Africa under his belt, have an<br />
individual signature. This family estate farms<br />
23 hectares in Rheinhessen’s northwest which<br />
are in the process of being converted to organic<br />
farming. This should lend even more site<br />
and province character to these wines. We already<br />
love the mineral Rieslings from these<br />
weathered porphyry soils – like the “Reserve<br />
del Rey”. There is so much potential!<br />
91 2017 »Reserve del Rey« Siefersheim<br />
Heerkretz Riesling trocken unfiltriert<br />
Aromas of spontaneous fermentation on the nose, herbs, apple<br />
skin, ripe and dried apricot, some cold charcoal. On the<br />
palate there is juicy sweet yellow fruit, apricot again and a<br />
soft, almost viscous mouthfeel, plus spice and a refined.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
palate there is good sweetness-acidity interplay, medium<br />
viscosity, rounded and honey-sweet on the finish, accompanied<br />
by slightly yeasty flavours. 9 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
88 2019 »Urmeer« Scheurebe feinherb<br />
91 2018 Volxheim Mönchberg<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Smells of white flowers and almonds, also fine apricot and<br />
tangerine as well as spicy notes. Opens softly and velvety on<br />
the palate with mild acidity, powerfully-built but tightly and<br />
smoothly contained. This has lots of substance and will<br />
evolve. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2015 »Wild Wines« Siefersheim<br />
Martinsberg In der Mockenhöll Silvaner tr.<br />
Herbal scent with apple, pear, fine wood spice and greengage.<br />
On the palate there is a tight and firm structure, juicy<br />
sweet fruit, good density, spicy and well-balanced. It shows<br />
the generosity of the vintage and remains focused.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2018 »AAA« Huxelrebe<br />
Trockenbeerenauslese<br />
Initially lactic and estery notes, but they dissipate with air.<br />
Also dried porcini mushroom, walnut, passion fruit. On the<br />
90 2019 »Porphyr« Riesling trocken<br />
Fresh nose, yellow stone fruit, mirabelle and apricot with<br />
delicate floral scent. On the palate creamy and dense,<br />
juicy, some sweetness with a slightly tart edge, ripe and<br />
smooth acid structure, more apricot, fine minerality with<br />
some smokiness. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
507
ADAMSWEIN<br />
Altegasse 28, 55218 Ingelheim am Rhein<br />
T: +49 (6132) 790800, info@adamswein.de<br />
www.adamswein.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Simone Adams<br />
Contact: Simone Adams<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 45,000 (30 % white, 70 % red)/10 ha<br />
The journey continues”, Simone Adams<br />
reports. “We used the Corona year of<br />
2020 to convert our farming to biodynamics<br />
and see this time as an opportunity to<br />
re-think our long-term strategy, as a turning<br />
point.” This of course means that we are curious<br />
what future vintages will bring. The starting<br />
point for the journey, however, is already<br />
rock solid: the white wines from 2018 absolutely<br />
show the advantages of this ripe vintage<br />
without getting too powerful or broad. The Pinot<br />
Noirs, meanwhile, have turned the 2017<br />
into finesse – a kind of Ingelheim tradition<br />
made in a dry style.<br />
94 2018 »Kaliber 25« Chardonnay trocken<br />
Yeasty on the nose with some wood and herbaceousness.<br />
The palate has silky phenolics with a grip that builds on the<br />
finish. Mineral, dense, great substance with a sinewy, yet not<br />
overly austere style. Incredible finesse with a subtle power.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2018 »Kaliber 9« Weissburgunder trocken<br />
91 2017 Ingelheim Auf dem Haun<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
91 2017 »Kaliber 28« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
92 2018 »White Wedding Kaliber 21«<br />
trocken VI/PG/CH<br />
Discreet wood. Closed fruit. Very balanced on the palate,<br />
with juiciness and nerve, but also with suppleness and spicy<br />
notes. Emphatically fresh on the finish, with tactile mineral<br />
notes and a hint of phenolic astringency. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2017 »Kaliber 48« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Complex notes of fig compote, cherry, earthy, herbaceous<br />
with a limestone backbone. Juicy on the nose, very fine yet<br />
tight tannin, plump structure, ripe fruit. Quite a traditional<br />
Spätburgunder produced to a high standard.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2017 »Kaliber 12« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Delicately spicy with sweet cherry, redcurrant, mint and juniper.<br />
The palate is surprisingly satisfying for an entry-level<br />
wine, tightly-structured, firm acidity, but balanced with fruit<br />
and spice. Compact finish, drinking well now, but with further<br />
potential. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
93 2018 »Kaliber 19« Grauburgunder trocken<br />
A light dusky pink "gris"" colour. Tight nose with notes of<br />
berry and apple peel tisane. On the palate there is close interplay<br />
of texture and raciness and juicy berry fruit. Lots of<br />
tension on the palate and excellent length."<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
508 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Rheinhessen | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT ST. ANTONY<br />
Wilhelmstrasse 4, 55283 Nierstein<br />
T: +49 (6133) 509110, info@st-antony.de<br />
www.st-antony.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 11–17 hrs, Sundays 12–18 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Sebastian Strub<br />
Contact: Dirk Würtz<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 200,000 (70 % white, 30 % red)/60 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
This longstanding Nierstein estate presents<br />
a stellar performance – five scores<br />
of 93 points speak for themselves. The<br />
Nierstein village Riesling already sets the tone:<br />
with its mineral character and powerful structure<br />
it represents a kind of Sunday edition of<br />
the Grosse Gewächse which are wines for celebrations<br />
: very rich in aroma, generous in<br />
their palate structure. They are more than<br />
worthy representatives of their classic origin.<br />
The red wines, too, are exquisite. Under the aegis<br />
of Dirk Würtz the wines seem to have<br />
gained in nuance and differentiation. Well<br />
done!<br />
93 2019 Nierstein Pettenthal Riesling GG<br />
Ripe, yellow fruit on the nose, apricot, peach and mango, in addition<br />
fine herbs and the minerality of the Roter Hang. On the<br />
palate ripe, yellow fruit, juicy and with texture. The acidity is<br />
ripe and carries to the long length, good substance and density,<br />
finishes on a mineral note. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
93 2019 Nierstein Orbel Riesling GG<br />
93 2019 Nierstein Hipping Riesling GG<br />
Floral and spicy fragrance, lavender, marigold and chamomile.<br />
Terroir tones from Rhyolite soils. On the palate silky,<br />
finely-chiselled and soft, then develops a vivid sweetness<br />
balanced with a bright acidity. A wine with a gentle blueprint<br />
that can attain real volume. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
93 2018 Nierstein Paterberg<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Wild cherry, milk chocolate, cinnamon, redcurrant, fragrant,<br />
floral on the nose. Quite a meteorite on the palate: wide-bodied<br />
and creamy, plus a hefty amount of grainy, artisanal tannin,<br />
but also juiciness, peppery-mineral finish.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2018 »Rothe Bach« Blaufränkisch trocken<br />
Sour cherry, Amarena cherry, elderberry and noticeable<br />
wood spice in a multi-layered aroma, followed by juniper berry.<br />
Taut and compact on the palate with good density and extract,<br />
finely-woven tannins, lots of concentration.<br />
12 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2019 »Aus Ersten Lagen« Nierstein<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Apple compote, pink pepper, berries and balsamic notes.<br />
impressive on the palate, quite voluminous for a Ortswein,<br />
loosely-knit phenolics, firm acidity but integrated into a<br />
smooth base. Concentrated, strongly mineral and discreetly<br />
spicy on the finish. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
509
WEINGUT BATTENFELD-SPANIER<br />
Bahnhofstrasse 33, 67591 Hohen-Sülzen<br />
T: +49 (6243) 906515, kontakt@battenfeld-spanier.de<br />
www.battenfeld-spanier.de<br />
Cellar Door: only in Bodenheim at Kühling-Gillot<br />
Winemaker: Hans Oliver Spanier, Axel Thieme,<br />
Christopher Full<br />
Contact: Hans Oliver Spanier and Carolin Spanier-Gillot<br />
Hectares: 28 ha<br />
Respect! The wines presented by H.O.<br />
Spanier do not have to shy away from<br />
comparison with anything. The village<br />
wines from “Erste Lagen”, as per the most recent<br />
VDP-parlance, really taste of classified<br />
sites while the Grosse Gewächse leave nothing<br />
one could possibly desire from a Grand Cru<br />
wine: The Frauenberg shows volume, the<br />
Zellerweg a chalky minerality while the Kirchenstück<br />
is as distinguished and salty as never<br />
before. The auction wine from the Zeller<br />
Kreuzberg site is a veritable elixir of limestone.<br />
We honour all this with the fifth star.<br />
95 2019 Zell Kreuzberg Riesling<br />
Erste Lage trocken (auction)<br />
Balsamic (new) wood, closed aromas, citrus hints, plus damp<br />
stone. On the palate silky, seamlessly-rounded, generous and<br />
poised with slowly rolling minerality. Dense with a lightness<br />
of touch. This has a great future. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork<br />
fruit, acidity and substance. The acidity is delicious, tightly<br />
woven into the structure, nicely spicy with clear expression<br />
and potential. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
90 2019 Hohen-Sülzen Riesling<br />
Aus ersten Lagen trocken<br />
95 2019 Hohen-Sülzen Kirchenstück<br />
Riesling GG<br />
Stone fruit on the nose, also apple, herbs and smoke, the<br />
smell of lingering incense in church. Noble and poised on the<br />
palate, well-balanced with ripe fruit and cultivated acidity<br />
and salty notes underpinning the muscular body. Dense and<br />
long. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
94 2019 Mölsheim Zellerweg am Schwarzen<br />
Herrgott Riesling GG<br />
Herbaceous and spicy on the nose, coriander, cumin, tangerine.<br />
Powerful on the palate, delicious phenolic, juicy acidity,<br />
tactile, mineral and beautifully balanced. Still youthful and<br />
compact, with very good length and hints of spice to come.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
94 2019 Nieder-Flörsheim Frauenberg<br />
Riesling GG<br />
Dense nose with herbs and minerals, also yellow fruit, spicy.<br />
Generous and complete on the palate, with good balance of<br />
92 2019 Mölsheim Riesling<br />
Aus Ersten Lagen trocken<br />
Fresh aroma, orange peel, blood orange, lemon peel. Juicy<br />
acidity, medium weight with delicious phenolics, fine tactile<br />
mineral base and a vivid spicy finish. Very elegant with<br />
focus on spice and minerality. 12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
510 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT BEISER<br />
Rheinhessen | WINERIES<br />
Ausserhalb 1, 55578 Vendersheim<br />
T: +49 (6732) 8732, weingutbeiser@t-online.de<br />
www.weingut-beiser.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Saturdays 9–12 hrs and<br />
13–19 hrs, Sundays 11–14 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Simon Beiser<br />
Contact: The Beiser family<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 100,000 (70 % white, 30 % red)/23 ha<br />
This estate’s homepage shows the sizeable<br />
“Beiser-Clan” in the best of moods<br />
and smiling. This is not surprising<br />
when three generations are united in one common<br />
aim: namely, to produce wines which<br />
“have expression and power and show what<br />
our sites in Rheinhessen’s north can do,” as<br />
cellar master Simon Beiser says. We tasted a<br />
most convincing range of wines. The single-site<br />
wines from the Bingener Schlossberg<br />
Schwätzerchen are the top wines. The mineral<br />
and defined Riesling “Quarzit”, from the<br />
2014 vintage shows the potential of the terroir.<br />
Grandiose!<br />
93 2014 »Quarzit« Bingen Schlossberg<br />
Schwätzerchen Riesling trocken<br />
Ripe yellow fruit, apricot and papaya, with clear mineral<br />
notes, warm stone. Clearly-defined on the palate with welljudged<br />
power, tightly-woven and yet delicious and nuanced.<br />
Pronounced minerality, elegant and with unpretentious<br />
complexity. Flowing. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
92 2019 »Quarzit« Bingen Schlossberg<br />
Schwätzerchen Silvaner Alte Reben tr.<br />
Ripe pear on the nose, herbal spice and yellow apple, also<br />
rosehip. Complex and multi-layered Silvaner with a powerful<br />
structure, shows substance and extract, ripe, well-woven<br />
acidity, lots of spice, density and also texture, and noticeable<br />
mineral definition. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
91 2019 »Quarzit« Bingen Schlossberg<br />
Schwätzerchen Riesling trocken<br />
Multi-layered aromas of ripe yellow fruit, guava and notes of<br />
a warm vineyard, hot stone and flint. Juicy and spicy on the<br />
palate, some lemon juice, fine flow with well-integrated<br />
acidity. Powerful, dense and with good extract and mineral<br />
definition. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2018 »Tonmergel« Vendersheim<br />
Chardonnay Kleines Fass trocken<br />
Smoky notes on the nose, melon, quince and pear, also some<br />
smoky bacon. Powerful and firm on the palate, smoky notes<br />
again, sweet extract, well-integrated ripe acidity, shows juice<br />
and texture, young and attractive with ageing potential.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 »Vetter B« trocken GS/CH<br />
89 2019 »Muschelkalk« Sauvignon Blanc tr.<br />
88 2019 »Tonmergel« Sprendlingen<br />
Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
88 2019 »Kalkmergel« Vendersheim<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
88 2019 »Tabularasa« Scheurebe trocken<br />
89 2018 »Tonmergel« Vendersheim<br />
Frühburgunder trocken<br />
89 2017 »Kalkmergel« Sprendlingen<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 »Muschelkalk« Vendersheim<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Juicy nose with apple, citrus fruit and mirabelle, spicy and<br />
floral notes. Also spicy on the palate and with a ripe and<br />
confident acid structure, again notes of juicy lemon, nice<br />
flow, invigorating and also creamy and coherent.<br />
13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
511
WEINGUT BISCHEL<br />
Sonnenhof 15, 55437 Appenheim<br />
T: +49 (6725) 2683, info@weingut-bischel.de<br />
www.weingut-bischel.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Saturdays 9–18 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Matthias and Christian Runkel<br />
Contact: Matthias and Christian Runkel<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 130,000 (80 % white, 20 % red)/20 ha<br />
Farming: in transition to organic<br />
The new VDP-member estate did really<br />
well in our tastings: The three single-site<br />
Rieslings from the Appenheimer<br />
Hundertgulden, the Binger Scharlachberg<br />
and the Siefersheimer Heerkretz compete for<br />
pole position – for us, it is the Heerkretz that<br />
takes the crown, as the most complete of these<br />
three wines. Yet, the generous Hundertgulden<br />
and the firm, mineral contours of the Scharlachberg<br />
lend expression to their provenance<br />
in an equally compelling fashion. At this quality<br />
level we can see that the fourth star is within<br />
reach.<br />
94 2019 Siefersheim Heerkretz Riesling GG<br />
Apple and yellow fruit mingle with rocky mineral notes on<br />
the nose, also herbs, apricot, beeswax and floral fragrance.<br />
Compact and well-balanced on the palate, the delicious acidity<br />
is well-integrated, mineral, spicy and deeply satisfying.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2017 Appenheim Spätburgunder<br />
Aus Ersten Lagen trocken<br />
93 2019 Bingen Scharlachberg Riesling GG<br />
Yellow fruit and ripe apple, apricot, yellow flowers, broom<br />
and mango, also herbs and warm stone. The palate is<br />
well-balanced, powerful built with clear definition; ripe,<br />
well-woven acidity, with juiciness, texture and minerality.<br />
This has real charm and presence. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2019 Appenheim Hundertgulden<br />
Riesling GG<br />
Complex multi-layered nose with apricot and peach, apple,<br />
floral notes, spice and hints of chalky minerality. Juicy and<br />
creamy on the palate, good substance and density on a soft<br />
foundation, fine acidity, limestone minerality, consistent and<br />
elegant. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2019 Bingen Scharlachberg<br />
Riesling Auslese<br />
Medium, clear yellow. On the nose dried fruits, dried apricot,<br />
lime zest, fine. On the palate well-balanced acidity and<br />
sweetness, ripe citrus fruits, pear, fine structure and nice<br />
length. Harmonious and with potential. 7 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2018 »Réserve« Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Fine and clear on the nose with notes of stone, some smokiness<br />
and subtle wood spice. Flowing on the palate with<br />
mineral grip, fresh yellow fruit, almond, freshly-grated citrus<br />
zest and chiselled acid structure. Elegant and balanced<br />
with a fine finish. 14 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
512 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT BOSSERT<br />
Rheinhessen | WINERIES<br />
Hauptstrasse 15, 67598 Gundersheim<br />
T: +49 (6244) 905510, info@bossert-gundersheim.de<br />
www.bossert-gundersheim.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Johanna and Philipp Bossert<br />
Contact: Johanna and Philipp Bossert<br />
Hectares: 10 ha<br />
To get straight to the point: in 2018, the<br />
Bossert siblings have made their best<br />
ever Höllenbrand-Spätburgunder of<br />
their young careers yet. This wine vibrates between<br />
fruit, minerality, between charm and seriousness<br />
– it is the purest pleasure and will remain<br />
so for many years. Likewise, we also enjoyed<br />
the white wines from the 2019 vintage.<br />
We think that there may be a possibility that<br />
the crunchy, super-bright and deeply mineral<br />
Gundersheimer village Riesling may impress<br />
some connoisseurs more than the altogether<br />
more complete and richer single-site wine<br />
from the Königstuhl. More please!<br />
92 2019 Gundersheim Königstuhl Riesling tr.<br />
Discreet wood, orange marmalade, rosewood and balsamic<br />
overtones. Ripe berries, picked pure and healthy. Good volume<br />
on the palate, poised with lively, cultivated acidity and vivid<br />
sweetness as a counterbalance. Well-defined minerality and<br />
terpenic extract in the long finish. 13 Vol.-%. DIAM, €€€<br />
90 2018 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
91 2019 Gundersheim Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Initially marked by spontaneous fermentation, then a hint of<br />
almost Riesling-like citrus notes, finally hay and white flowers.<br />
On the palate there is fine acidity and a silky, deliciously<br />
phenolic texture, tactile mineral underpinnings, tense and<br />
juicy. 12,5 Vol.-%. DIAM, €€<br />
91 2019 Gundersheim Riesling trocken<br />
A hint of wood. Grapefruit, bitter orange and meadow herbs.<br />
On the palate crunchy, taut, slightly phenolic, wood-spiced<br />
foundation, intensely chalky-mineral, an Ortswein (village<br />
wine) full of freshness and tension, with the unadulterated<br />
pithiness typical of the year. 12,5 Vol.-%. DIAM, €€<br />
94 2018 Gundersheim Höllenbrand<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Discreet wood, clove, coconut, plus intensely sweet cherry<br />
fruit. On the palate there is a good dose of mellow, grainy tannin,<br />
lively, cultivated acid backbone, lots of texture in the<br />
background, but also juiciness and lime minerality. Great finesse!<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
89 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
Ripe varietal fruit on the nose, red apple and peach.<br />
Full-bodied on the palate with good density, estate Riesling<br />
is expressed here by intensity (not as often is the case by<br />
lightness of the fruit, unripeness or lack of depth). Light<br />
sweetness underpins the fruit. 12,5 Vol.-%, DIAM, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
513
WEINGUT BOXHEIMERHOF<br />
Wonnegaustrasse 31, 67550 Worms-Abenheim<br />
T: +49 (6242) 60180, info@boxheimerhof.de<br />
www.boxheimerhof.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Saturdays 10–18 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Johannes Boxheimer<br />
Contact: Johannes Boxheimer<br />
Hectares: 25 ha<br />
Johannes Boxheimer of Weingut Boxheimerhof<br />
has a very clear idea of the<br />
genesis and development of his wines:<br />
“Wine, for us is a cultural product which is<br />
made by our hands,” he says. His village and<br />
single-site wines are fermented spontaneously<br />
and sometimes also on their skins. They are<br />
then matured in wood – the tautly-constructed<br />
Rieslings with their mineral foundation<br />
also benefit from this. The precise and elegant<br />
Pinot Noir is deserving of its name, the Riesling<br />
“vom Brummelochsenboden” is our Falstaff<br />
tip. A great debut!<br />
90 2018 Gundheim Sonnenberg Riesling tr.<br />
Deep yellow in the glass, apple and citrus fruit, yellow fruit<br />
and flowers and also smoke. Slenderly-built and with a firm<br />
structure on the palate, ripe acidity, juice and texture, delicate<br />
spice and sweetness, a fine layer of phenolics, elegant<br />
and delicious. 11,5 Vol.-%. DIAM, €€<br />
88 2019 Abenheim Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
90 2018 »Alte Reben« Abenheim Klausenberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Spicy and smoky fragrance, yellow apple and apricot, herbs.<br />
The ripe and playful acidity determines the palate, salty nuances,<br />
compact and firm texture. Shows depth, elegance and<br />
spurs the gastronomic imagination. 12,5 Vol.-%. DIAM, €€<br />
89 2018 Abenheim Klausenberg Pinot Blanc tr.<br />
Powerful aroma of ripe yellow fruit, mirabelle, apricot and<br />
apple, citrus fruit, smoky notes, yellow flowers. Powerful and<br />
firm on the palate with lively acidity, noticeable residual<br />
sweetness, shows texture and elegance. Gastronomically<br />
versatile. 12,5 Vol.-%. DIAM, €€<br />
91 2015 Pinot Noir trocken<br />
Bay leaf on the nose, smoke and toasted aromas with Morello<br />
cherry fruit. On the palate there is a finely-chiselled and<br />
nervous acidity with coherent texture, good balance, precise<br />
expression and cultivated tannins. A lovely example of Pinot<br />
Noir. 13 Vol.-%. DIAM, €€<br />
89 2019 »vom Brummelochsenboden«<br />
Abenheim Riesling trocken<br />
Fine fruit and spice on the nose, peach and apricot, also<br />
some mango. The palate shows a fine interplay of sweetness<br />
and acidity, clear, powerful framework; good draw and<br />
fine mineral polish, juicy, spicy and elegant. A lot of wine<br />
for the money. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
514 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Rheinhessen | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT MARKUS BRANDT<br />
Dalbergstrasse 27, 67596 Dittelsheim-Hessloch<br />
T: +49 (6244) 5521, kontakt@brandt-weine.de<br />
www.brandt-weine.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Markus Brandt<br />
Contact: Markus Brandt<br />
Hectares: 12 ha<br />
This rather young estate – founded in<br />
2010 and taken over by Markus<br />
Brandt, the next generation, in 2017 –<br />
presented great proof of its abilities with its<br />
range of wines. The Riesling from the Rheinhessen<br />
part of the Zeller valley pleases with its<br />
finely-woven and mineral freshness; the white<br />
Pinots show real measure when it comes to<br />
maturation in wood. The Pinot-Rosé-Sekt<br />
convinces with its textured feel and clarity.<br />
Last but not least, Markus Brandt also shows<br />
ambition when it comes to aromatic grape varieties<br />
and nobly sweet wines. A totally successful<br />
debut in this guide.<br />
92 2019 Mölsheim Zellerweg am Schwarzen<br />
Herrgott Riesling trocken<br />
Candied lemon peel and tangerine fruit, radiantly fresh, almost<br />
Kabinett-like. On the palate there is very good balance<br />
between density and juicy acidity. Terpenic extract illustrates<br />
the distinctive site character, with chalky minerality.<br />
Exciting. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
acidity and a sweetness that carries the wine but does not<br />
dominate it. 9 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 »Fumé« Weissburgunder trocken<br />
90 NV »Pinot Noir Rosé« brut<br />
Fruit-driven aromatics of raspberry, quince and sweet cherry.<br />
On the palate there is medium-fine mousse and ripe acidity<br />
with savoury Pinot fruit. Good substance and a suitably dry<br />
dosage, a vinous Sekt. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2018 Bechtheim Hasensprung Gelber<br />
Muskateller Beerenauslese<br />
Clear, rich yellow. On the nose dried fruits, peach, orange<br />
zest, herbal spice, nutmeg and hints of smoke. Very vivid<br />
sweetness on the palate, lively acidity, concentrated, dense<br />
citrus fruit, lime, texture, lots of drive, good length. Ageing<br />
potential. 9,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2018 Hessloch Liebfrauenberg<br />
Scheurebe Auslese<br />
Highly concentrated grapefruit fruit on the nose. There also<br />
is a clear botrytis component and underlying dried porcini<br />
mushroom. Very round and finely-chiselled palate, with fresh<br />
91 2019 »Fumé« Grauburgunder trocken<br />
Red berry nose with meadow herbs and some yellow apple.<br />
On the palate there is a fullness of fruit without becoming<br />
baroque, overlayed with a fine acidity. Good grip, fine phenolics<br />
and balance with noticeable tension.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
515
WEINGUT ERNST BRETZ<br />
Langgasse 35, 55234 Bechtolsheim<br />
T: +49 (6733) 356, info@weingutbretz.de<br />
www.weingutbretz.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–12 hrs and<br />
13–18 hrs, Saturdays 10–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Harald Bretz<br />
Contact: Horst Bretz<br />
Hectares: 40 ha<br />
It is not only down to the brilliant Trockenbeerenauslese<br />
of Scheurebe that we can<br />
tell that Weingut Bretz is on an upward<br />
trajectory. The Riesling from the Petersberg<br />
site in the 2019 vintage is finely-executed, elegant<br />
and well-balanced and we can really recommend<br />
the spicy and present Sauvignon<br />
Blanc. This trajectory can be clearly pinned to<br />
Victoria Bretz, daughter of Horst and Heike<br />
Bretz. As a Geisenheim graduate, she now contributes<br />
ideas and sets new influences. Especially<br />
the use of wood seems to be much more<br />
precise. A development which, we are sure, is<br />
set to continue.<br />
90 2019 Bechtolsheim Petersberg Riesling tr.<br />
Fruity nose with peach, some leafiness and mineral hints.<br />
The palate comes with an elegant attitude. Leanly-built, fine<br />
juice and flow, underpinned by spice, freshness, citrus fruit<br />
on the back palate and well-balanced. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2019 »Réserve« Bechtolsheim Petersberg<br />
Grauburgunder trocken<br />
Smells strongly of blossom, pear and ripe apple. Rich, full-bodied<br />
wine with lots of juiciness and texture. The powerful structure<br />
corresponds well with the generous expression, not too<br />
sweet and with fine spice. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2018 Bechtolsheim Petersberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Powerful, spicy aroma with ripe red and dark fruit, wood<br />
spice, juniper berry and damp forest floor. Concentrated and<br />
spicy on the palate, good substance, ripe vein of acid. Successful<br />
combination of power and Pinot personality.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
96 2018 Scheurebe Trockenbeerenauslese<br />
Complex nose: pink grapefruit, some beeswax, fresh pea and<br />
apricot. On the palate juicy and supple, not overly viscous, but<br />
definitely full-bodied, rich, sweet, with rather restrained acidity,<br />
but supported by powerful extract. 8 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
89 2019 »Réserve« Bechtolsheim Petersberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
89 2018 Bechtolsheim Petersberg<br />
Chardonnay trocken<br />
89 2019 »Réserve« Bechtolsheim Petersberg<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
90 2015 »Réserve« Bechtolsheim Petersberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
90 2015 Bechtolsheim Petersberg Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon & Merlot trocken<br />
89 2016 Bechtolsheim Petersberg<br />
St. Laurent trocken<br />
89 2019 Bechtolsheim Petersberg<br />
Scheurebe Spätlese<br />
89 2019 Bechtolsheim Petersberg<br />
Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Spicy and intense nose of grapefruit, papaya and green<br />
pepper with some lemongrass. Juicy and spicy on the palate,<br />
slender stature, well-balanced with freshness, fruit<br />
and texture. Good varietal expression with class and a<br />
Rheinhessen accent. 12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
516 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT LISA BUNN<br />
Rheinhessen | WINERIES<br />
Mainzer Strasse 86, 55283 Nierstein<br />
T: +49 (6133) 59290, info@weingut-bunn.de<br />
www.lisa-bunn.de<br />
Cellar Door: Tuesdays through Fridays 13–17 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 11–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Lisa Bunn, Bastian Strebel<br />
Contact: Lisa Bunn<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 80,000 (65 % white, 35 % red)/21 ha<br />
More consistency is hardly possible.<br />
Lisa Bunn and her husband Bastian<br />
Strebel have presented a flawless<br />
range of wines. This cements their reputation as<br />
outstanding winemaking personalities in<br />
Rheinhessen. Their 21 hectares of different sites<br />
and various soil types lends them a spectrum,<br />
that reaches from the fresh Riesling “Fleissigen<br />
Lieschen” via the savoury Sauvignon Blanc<br />
“Fumé Reserve” all the way to the finely mineral<br />
Riesling from the Niersteiner Hipping. And<br />
we should not forget to mention the finely-balanced,<br />
aromatic reds: both the Sankt Laurent<br />
and the Spätburgunder are very enjoyable.<br />
92 2019 Nierstein Hipping Riesling trocken<br />
Rich, clear yellow. Mineral scent, apricot and pink grapefruit.<br />
On the palate ripe acidity, fine phenolics, citrus, mineral traction,<br />
tension and elegance all leading to a nice structure.<br />
Needs some time to fully evolve but has the power and potential<br />
to last for years. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2019 Nierstein Orbel Riesling trocken<br />
Rich, clear yellow. On the nose, mineral, ripe lime, pink grapefruit<br />
and some matchstick notes. The palate offers an invigorating<br />
acidity, ripe citrus fruit, mineral pull and fine phenolics.<br />
Appealing structure, good length, finishes elegantly.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2018 »vom Rotliegenden« Nierstein<br />
St. Laurent trocken<br />
Rich, deep and clear cherry red. On the nose red berries, Amarena<br />
cherry, herbal spice, cloves, some cinnamon and vanilla,<br />
but retaining freshness. Fine, well-balanced tannins on<br />
the palate, with cherry, spices and prunes. Harmonious acidity,<br />
good length, finishes with spice. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2018 Wintersheim Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Medium cherry red, brownish rim. On the nose spicy cherry,<br />
some smoke, blackberry and fresh plum. On the palate<br />
shows fine tannins, dark red fruits, cherry, tobacco and forest<br />
floor, good structure, very balanced with a nice length.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2019 »Reserve« Dienheim Tafelstein<br />
Chardonnay trocken<br />
91 2019 »Reserve« Grauburgunder trocken<br />
90 2019 »Fumé Reserve« Sauvignon Blanc tr.<br />
90 2019 Wintersheim Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 »vom Rotliegenden« Nierstein<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 »vom Kalkstein« Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 »Fleissiges Lieschen« Riesling tr.<br />
90 2018 Pinot Noir trocken<br />
Clear cherry red. On the nose sour cherry, some smoke,<br />
fresh blackcurrants and spiciness. On the palate harmonious,<br />
rather soft tannins, balanced acidity, cherry, herbal<br />
spice, medium structure and length, definitely has charm.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%, cork, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
517
CISTERZIENSER WEINGUT<br />
Dalbergstrasse 28, 67596 Dittelsheim-Hessloch<br />
T: +49 (6244) 4921, info@cisterzienser-weingut.de<br />
www.cisterzienser-weingut.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–11.30 hrs and<br />
13–18 hrs, Saturdays 9–13 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Ulrich Michel<br />
Contact: Karen and Ulrich Michel<br />
Hectares: 30 ha<br />
We just want to see what happens,”<br />
Karen and Ulrich Michel report.<br />
“So we’ve decided on a new logo,<br />
new labels and totally new design. Why? Because<br />
we fancied it!” Well done. It is always a<br />
good thing when work turns out to be fun. We<br />
also note that this sense of renewal has not just<br />
stayed on the surface: the Michel Family is converting<br />
its vineyards to organic farming, they<br />
have hired a young cellar master and have<br />
strengthened their position with new vineyards<br />
and additional wood ageing capacity in the cellar.<br />
Can we taste the difference? Absoluteley!<br />
We look forward to seeing how things develop.<br />
92 2019 Westhofen Morstein Riesling trocken<br />
Lavender, lemon blossom, yeast, rosemary, wet chalk. On the<br />
palate driven and lean in equal measure, crunchy acidity, restrained<br />
sweetness, juicy and dense on the midpalate, still<br />
closed, with mineral freshness and yeasty finish.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2019 Bechtheim Hasensprung<br />
Riesling trocken unfiltered<br />
Shy on the nose with citric, yeast and lemon balm notes. On<br />
the palate there is a supple structure, firm acidity, mealy<br />
phenolics, medium-weight in concentration and good mineral<br />
components. This is still a youthfully-introverted wine<br />
with good ageing potential. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2018 »Masswerk« Hessloch Edle Weingärten<br />
Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 Chardonnay trocken<br />
89 2019 »Sommersprossen« tr. SB/WB/RR<br />
88 2018 »S« Weissburgunder trocken<br />
88 2019 Merlot Rosé trocken<br />
89 2018 »Monsignore« trocken CS/SL/RE<br />
89 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot trocken<br />
90 2018 »Cisterzienser Sekt«<br />
Sauvignon Blanc brut<br />
Floral, gooseberry with ripe stone fruit and mango. On the palate,<br />
lively acidity combines with fine, sweet fruit, the mousse is<br />
delicate, clear and focussed. A sparkling wine that goes beyond<br />
just being an aperitif. 12,5 Vol.-%. agglomerated cork, €€<br />
90 2015 Merlot trocken<br />
Cherry stone and herbs, restrained wood. Generous tannin,<br />
but finely-grained, ripe and juicy, gentle acidity, mouthfilling,<br />
beautiful clear fruit on the finish. The warm alcohol is<br />
well-balanced by juiciness and extract.<br />
14 Vol.-%. agglomerated cork, €€<br />
90 2019 Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Kiwi and gooseberry on the nose, juicy and elegant on the<br />
palate, fine acidity, silky mouthfeel, flow, a hint of sweetness,<br />
unobtrusive varietal aromas, more on the fruity than<br />
the "green". 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
518 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Rheinhessen | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT DACKERMANN<br />
Gaustrasse 15, 67596 Dittelsheim-Hessloch<br />
T: +49 (6244) 7054, info@weingut-dackermann.de<br />
www.weingut-dackermann.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Sascha Dackermann<br />
Contact: Sascha Dackermann<br />
Hectares: 16 ha<br />
Weingut Dackermann has been making<br />
wine since 1913 and from 2011<br />
onwards, Sascha Dackermann, the<br />
fourth generation, has been responsible for<br />
vineyard and cellar. “Our vinification is very<br />
gentle and we only use what nature gives us<br />
each year,” Dackermann says about his winemaking<br />
approach. His wines show substance<br />
and power without losing any balance, like the<br />
smooth Riesling “vom Kalkstein” for instance.<br />
He also creates, aromatic varieties that turn out<br />
exquisitely well, like the varietally-typical and<br />
fine-fruited Gelber Muskateller. A most promising<br />
debut in this wine guide!<br />
90 2019 »vom Kalkstein« Hessloch Riesling tr.<br />
Ripe apricot and peach on the nose, classic and beautiful,<br />
also mango and mineral hints. The acidity on the palate is<br />
lively and buffered at the same time, clearly-defined fruit,<br />
chalky mineral smoothness, compact stature. A grown-up<br />
Riesling. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2016 Bechtheim Hasensprung St. Laurent tr.<br />
Intense nose, ripe and also cooked fruit, cherry and blackberry,<br />
some elderberry, toasted aromas, smoke and Asian spices.<br />
Retains plenty of freshness despite all power and substance.<br />
The tannins are strong and slightly astringent and<br />
this needs hearty food. 14,5 Vol.-%. DIAM, €€<br />
89 2017 »Grande Réserve« Chardonnay brut<br />
90 2019 »vom Kalkstein« Hessloch<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Intense and spicy nose of yellow and white flowers, ripe citrus<br />
fruit, guava and apricot, also toasty aromas. Powerful<br />
stature, starts juicy and soft, increasing concentration and<br />
spiciness on the midpalate, texture and chalky mineral<br />
nerve. Youthful. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2018 »vom Löss« Bechtheim<br />
Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
Reddish colour in the glass, intense nose, smells strongly of<br />
wood and roasted chestnuts, also ripe pear. On the palate<br />
there is good substance and early signs of balance with wood<br />
notes starting to integrate. Ripe and lively acidity, fine sweetness;<br />
this will age well. 14,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 Gelber Muskateller trocken<br />
Clear, varietal nose of blade of mace, apricot, mango, lychee<br />
and ripe gooseberry. The palate has well-defined<br />
fruit, fine sweetness accompanied by lively acidity and<br />
well-built. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
519
WEINGUT ENGEL<br />
Untergasse 39, 67592 Flörsheim-Dalsheim<br />
T: +49 (6243) 6574, webmaster@der-wein-engel.de<br />
www.der-wein-engel.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–12 hrs and<br />
13–18 hrs, Saturdays 9–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Albrecht Engel<br />
Contact: Albrecht Engel<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 100,000 (70 % white, 30 % red)/11 ha<br />
Albrecht Engel trained with Wittmann,<br />
Gutzler and Christmann and is responsible<br />
for winemaking at his home<br />
estate. “Whether in stainless steel tank, large<br />
barrel or barrique, and when it comes to maturation<br />
our philosophy is to have as little intervention<br />
as possible,” Engel reports. The<br />
eleven hectares are farmed in tune with nature<br />
and are situated in the Nieder-Flörsheim sites<br />
Frauenberg and Goldberg, in the Dalsheim<br />
sites Bürgel and Hubacker as well as in the<br />
Mölsheimer Zellerweg am Schwarzen Herrgott.<br />
Engel knows how to exploit the potential<br />
of these sites. A most successful debut!<br />
90 2019 Mölsheim Zellerweg Am Schwarzen<br />
Herrgott Riesling trocken<br />
Intense Spätlese fruit, mirabelle, peach and apricot. Powerful<br />
palate, soft and round, full-bodied, more fruity than mineral,<br />
yet fresh with fine acidity, phenolics, medium length<br />
and a return of the yellow-fruited aromas on the finish.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
fine acidity, well-balanced with citrus fruit, apricot, mango,<br />
with good structure, length and fresh finish. Good potential.<br />
8,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 »Porphyr« Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 Nieder-Flörsheim Frauenberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Very deep colour, the nose needs a lot of air, but then shows<br />
herbaceous notes, caraway and anise. Very hard on the palate,<br />
with striking acidity and almost painful tannin, intensely<br />
mineral. An edgy Riesling that needs bottle age.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 Nieder-Flörsheim Goldberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Fragrant and floral on the nose, also notes of citrus fruit.<br />
Fresh and juicy on the palate, at the same time with good<br />
body, silky texture, lively acidity, but also some sweetness<br />
that highlights the fruit. Good potential, but still needs time<br />
to harmonise. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2018 Mölsheim Zellerweg Am Schwarzen<br />
Herrgott Riesling Spätlese<br />
Clear, bright yellow in colour. On the nose shattered rock,<br />
lime, ripe citrus fruit, honey and white currant. On the palate<br />
90 2019 Nieder-Flörsheim Riesling trocken<br />
Deep colour, at first somewhat subdued on the nose, with<br />
subtle aromas of white peach and apricot appearing.<br />
Round and smooth on the palate, almost creamy, strong<br />
phenolics, emphatically dry, mineral tinge and terpene finish.<br />
Youthful. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
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Rheinhessen | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT EPPELMANN<br />
Kirchgasse 10, 55271 Stadecken-Elsheim<br />
T: +49 (6136) 2778, info@eppelmann.de<br />
www.eppelmann.de<br />
Cellar Door: Tuesdays through Fridays 13–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Timo, Christian and Corinna Eppelmann<br />
Contact: Corinna Eppelmann<br />
Hectares: 20 ha<br />
This is the best range of wines we have<br />
ever tasted from Weingut Eppelmann.<br />
It substantiates all the stylistic changes<br />
that have taken place: it is the first vintage that<br />
siblings Corinna and Christian Eppelmann,<br />
both still studying at Geisenheim, have made<br />
together with their parents Simone and Timo.<br />
The wines were fermented spontaneously and<br />
spend extended time on lees. Riesling and<br />
Spätburgunder are the focus, but white Pinot<br />
varieties can also show their mettle on the<br />
limestone soils. The conversion to organic<br />
farming will be completed in 2021. We think<br />
there is a whole lot more to come!<br />
91 2019 Elsheim Bockstein Riesling trocken<br />
Ripe yellow fruit, apricot and greengage, spicy notes, herbs,<br />
mineral hints. Multi-layered Riesling with good complexity and<br />
structure, well-balanced power, freshness and elegance, salty<br />
notes. Uncompromisingly dry and young. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2019 Elsheim Blume Silvaner trocken<br />
Pear and pumpkin on the nose, fine meadow herbs and<br />
smoky hints. Juicy on the palate with texture, spice and ripe<br />
acidity, salty notes on the mid palate, powerful and compact<br />
construction, good density and consistency. A real pleasure.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2019 »Réserve« Chardonnay trocken<br />
Pear and quince on the nose, green walnut, smoke and wood<br />
aromas. Powerful and rather broad on the palate, good density<br />
and extract, shows substance, juice, spice and a ripe, supporting<br />
acid structure with salty notes. Youthful, but with<br />
ageing potential. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
93 2019 Elsheim Blume Riesling<br />
Trockenbeerenauslese<br />
Clear, medium yellow. On the palate dried citrus, ripe quince<br />
and passion fruit, clear. On the palate lots of traction and texture,<br />
sweet pear juice, spice, exotic fruits. For all its power<br />
and presence, elegant, very balanced and with great potential.<br />
8 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€€<br />
90 2019 Elsheim Riesling trocken<br />
90 2017 »Pinot« brut nature<br />
90 2019 Elsheim Grauburgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 Elsheim Weissburgunder trocken<br />
90 2017 Elsheim Spätburgunder trocken<br />
89 2018 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 Elsheim Blume Riesling Spätlese<br />
89 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
Fruity and floral nose, apricot, peach, flowers, ripe apple<br />
and citrus fruit. Fresh and lively on the palate with attractive<br />
acidity and clear fruit, slender structure, fine spiciness<br />
and mineral hints. A sophisticated introduction to Riesling.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
521
WEINGUT ESPENHOF<br />
Hauptstrasse 81, 55237 Flonheim-Uffhofen<br />
T: +49 (6734) 94040, weingut@espenhof.de<br />
www.espenhof.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Saturdays 8–18 hrs,<br />
Sundays 9– 11 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Nico Espenschied<br />
Contact: Nico Espenschied<br />
Hectares: 30 ha<br />
Nico Espenschied is amongst the creative<br />
minds of the winemaker scene<br />
and always has new projects on the<br />
go. This time he surprised us with Manzoni Bianco,<br />
an Italian crossing of Riesling and Pinot<br />
Blanc. The wine fermented for five and a half<br />
months on its skins in a stone vessel and was<br />
then “left to its own devices” for 18 months in<br />
a small, used barrel, as Espenschied reports.<br />
He vinified a second batch in a 500-litre barrel<br />
and only added minimal sulphur dioxide. This<br />
resulted in two compelling, individual wines.<br />
We salute this courageous and imaginative<br />
winemaker.<br />
91 2019 »Herz+Hand« Manzoni Bianco<br />
unfiltered trocken<br />
Full-bodied, round, fresh on the nose. deliciously smoky, a little<br />
grassy. Intricate on the palate with fine density and lightness.<br />
Juicy, fresh light fruit, lively acidity, fine saltiness, delicious<br />
phenolic grip. Balanced, exciting, juicy. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2018 »Hautnah« Sauvignon Blanc<br />
natural trocken<br />
90 2018 »Bauchgefühl« Manzoni Bianco<br />
natural trocken<br />
More than five months of skin contact resulting in a dense,<br />
fine phenolic nose of peach, yellow spiciness, wild rose and<br />
citrus tea. Imminent power with herbal components. Balanced<br />
with juiciness, tart, tannic notes and freshness on the<br />
palate. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
91 2013 »E.P.I.« Pinot Noir trocken<br />
Focused, yet balanced with herbal spice, an ethereal hint, fine<br />
grip, vegetal notes and dark fruit. Intricate on the palate, fresh<br />
dark cherry and spiciness. Fine phenolics, direct acidity. Depth<br />
meets tension, spice and freshness. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
91 2018 »Herz+Hand« Syrah &<br />
Cabernet Franc trocken<br />
Violet nuances, dark berries, herbal components, clear, spicy,<br />
something ethereal and a hint of drying wood. Nuanced on the<br />
palate. Fresh, concentrated, fruit extract, still quite grippy tannin,<br />
astringency and lively, juicy acidity. 14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 »Veltenbummler« Veltliner Laura<br />
Espenschied trocken<br />
Juicy, full-bodied and fresh, meadow herb, some blossom,<br />
stone, juicy apple, peach and a hint of smokiness. On the<br />
palate fresh, sweet fruit and vegetal notes. Fine grip, juicy<br />
acidity. Invigorating and appetising.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
522 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Rheinhessen | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT FINKENAUER<br />
Ausserhalb 7, 55270 Bubenheim<br />
T: +49 (6130) 944206, info@finkenauer.de<br />
www.finkenauer.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Yvonne Finkenauer<br />
Contact: Yvonne Finkenauer<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 180,000 (85 % white, 15 % red)/15 ha<br />
We liked what Weingut Finkenauer<br />
from Bubenheim presented for<br />
tasting: Especially their ambitious<br />
“Meilenstein” wines, which have gained in<br />
character and profile, above all the complex,<br />
mineral Riesling from the Schwabenheimer<br />
Schlossberg site and the spicy, creamy Weissburgunder<br />
from the Bubenheimer Kallenberg<br />
site. It is remarkable what this self-made winemaker<br />
Yvonne Finkenauer has managed to<br />
build – with the help of her team and her father<br />
Wilfried. Together they farm 15 hectares of<br />
vines in Bubenheim. We think even greater<br />
things will be possible in the future!<br />
91 2018 »Meilenstein« Schwabenheim<br />
Schlossberg Riesling trocken<br />
Ripe stone fruit on the nose, notes of apricot and peach, also<br />
citrus fruit. Powerfully-built on the palate with just the the<br />
right level of sweetness. Persistent ripe acidity, more ripe<br />
fruit, mineral underpinning. Riesling with complexity and<br />
character. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
with good extract and plenty of spice. The alcohol is well-integrated,<br />
intense and well-balanced at the same time.<br />
14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
88 2019 Bubenheim Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
91 2019 »Meilenstein« Bubenheim Kallenberg<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Subtle smoke on the nose, discreet wood spice, apricot and<br />
apple. On the palate there is a powerful and firm structure<br />
due to wood ageing, good extract, spicy and textured, good<br />
balance of power and smoothness, ripe acidity, good ageing<br />
potential. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 »Meilenstein« Bubenheim Honigberg<br />
Chardonnay trocken<br />
Melon and pear on the nose with fine toasty aromas and<br />
spice, also aromas of walnut. Powerful and broad on the palate.<br />
Power, density and texture combine well against a soft<br />
backdrop, firm texture. Well-balanced, youthful Chardonnay<br />
with good ageing potential. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 »Meilenstein« Bubenheim Kallenberg<br />
Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Ripe papaya, mango and lychee on the nose, also gooseberry<br />
and redcurrant. Lots of substance on the palate, full-bodied<br />
89 2019 »vom Löss« Bubenheim Honigberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Fruity nose with mirabelle plum and apricot, some mango<br />
and also herbal notes. There is a lot of juiciness and ripe<br />
fruit, a supple and elegant expression of Riesling, slender<br />
and athletically-built with good proportions, spice and<br />
charm. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
523
WEINGUT FISCHBORN BERGESHOF<br />
Dalheimer Strasse 57, 55278 Dexheim<br />
T: +49 (6133) 60156, info@bergeshof.de<br />
www.bergeshof.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Martin and Eric Fischborn<br />
Contact: Martin and Eric Fischborn<br />
Hectares: 12 ha<br />
Fischborn – born for wine!” – such is the<br />
slogan of the industrious brothers Martin<br />
and Erik Fischborn. Their 12-hectare<br />
site portfolio covers three different regions:<br />
Rheinhessen, Mosel and Nahe where<br />
they took over vineyards in 2019. Riesling is<br />
their speciality, so it is a boon that the different<br />
soils lend themselves to different interpretations.<br />
Especially the single-site Rieslings from<br />
the Red Slope which show stature and finesse.<br />
We are curious what else they will do.<br />
91 2019 »Rotliegend« Nierstein Riesling tr.<br />
Powerful aroma that immediately conveys the image of the<br />
Roter Hang with herbaceous spiciness, yellow fruit and mineral<br />
notes. On the palate there is good substance, steely<br />
acidity, clear fruit and a mineral foundation with clear character.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2018 Nierstein Hipping Riesling trocken<br />
Smoky notes, ripe yellow fruit and herbs, some beeswax.<br />
Juicy on the palate with ripe acidity and texture, good levels<br />
of extract and sweetness, full-bodied and rich, shows the<br />
generosity of the vintage and the site, fine minerality with<br />
good length. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2018 Bodenheim Burgweg<br />
Cabernet Franc trocken<br />
Intense and spicy nose of cassis, peppers and herb garden,<br />
wood spice and smoke, balsamic touch. On the palate, powerful<br />
and with good strength, distinctive tannin, texture and<br />
spice, shows substance and also finesse. 14,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2019 Nierstein Hipping Riesling Auslese<br />
Clear, rich yellow. Peach, apricot, tangerine and herbal spice<br />
on the nose, rich. The palate has lots of texture, tangy acidity,<br />
dominant citrus fruit, stone fruit, taut vein of acidity, nice<br />
structure and length with ageing potential.<br />
11,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
89 2019 »Kalkmergel« Kreuznach Riesling tr.<br />
89 2019 »Kalkstein« Dexheim Riesling trocken<br />
89 2018 Badenheim Weissburgunder trocken<br />
88 2019 »Schiefer« Piesport Riesling<br />
Kabinett feinherb<br />
88 2019 »Everybody´s« Riesling trocken<br />
86 2019 »Sundowner« Scheurebe feinherb<br />
90 2018 »Muschelkalk« Badenheim<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
90 2019 Dienheim Chardonnay trocken<br />
Smoky notes accompany yellow fruit and pear, floral<br />
notes, fresh bay leaf. Juicy on the palate with vivid and refined<br />
acidity, shows structure and power in good balance,<br />
dense and with good extract. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
524 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Rheinhessen | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT FLEISCHMANN<br />
Kloppgasse 8, 55435 Gau-Algesheim<br />
info@fleischmann-weine.de<br />
www.fleischmann-weine.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 10.30–13 hrs and<br />
14.30–18 hrs, Saturdays 9.30–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Quirin and Fabian Fleischmann<br />
Contact: Stephanie Fleischmann<br />
Hectares: 17 ha<br />
Whoever wants to take a deep dive<br />
into the diversity of grape varieties<br />
that are grown in Rheinhessen and<br />
appreciates a clear-cut, traditional wine style<br />
has found the right address here: Weingut<br />
Fleischmann in Gau-Algesheim. For absolutely<br />
fair prices you get quite some wine: like the<br />
layered and well-balanced Riesling “Ouvertüre”,<br />
for instance, grown in the Gau-Algesheimer<br />
Steinert. The winery is run by Quirin<br />
and Stephanie Fleischmann along with their<br />
son Fabian, a Geisenheim graduate. Together<br />
they farm 17 hectares of vines. Compliments!<br />
90 2018 »Symphonie« Grauer Burgunder tr.<br />
Multi-layered aromas with ripe stone fruit, pear, melon, honeycomb,<br />
herb garden and spicy hints. Generous in all dimensions<br />
on the palate, has power, extract, sweet roundness,<br />
spice, length and silky elegance, juicy and with ripe acidity.<br />
Good ageing potential. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2019 Gau-Algesheim Goldberg<br />
Scheurebe Kabinett<br />
Very clear and fresh on the nose, grapefruit and candied lemon<br />
peel. Vivid sweetness, firm acidity, relatively powerful for<br />
a Kabinett, but the raciness of the acidity and the fresh aromatics<br />
give the wine momentum. 11,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 Gau-Algesheim Abtei<br />
Weisser Burgunder trocken<br />
Ripe apricot and grapefruit on the nose, flowers and meadow<br />
herbs, juicy and elegant. On the palate the acidity sets the<br />
tone and there is clear fruit, delicate spice, good balance and<br />
lots of texture. Has real charm and a bargain for lovers of<br />
classic style. 13,3 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 »S« Gau-Algesheim Abtei<br />
Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
Pear, quince and honeydew melon on the nose, also autumnal<br />
hints, herbs, chestnuts and nuts. Powerfully-built on the<br />
palate with good structure and balance, finely-rounded with<br />
some sweetness, shows extract and a resilient acid structure.<br />
Perfect for food. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 »S« Gau-Algesheim Abtei<br />
Chardonnay trocken<br />
88 2019 Gau-Algesheim Abtei Grüner Silvaner tr.<br />
87 2019 Rivaner trocken<br />
88 2019 Gau-Algesheim Abtei »Blanc de<br />
Noirs« Spätburgunder halbtrocken<br />
87 2019 Gau-Algesheim Abtei Rosé trocken<br />
89 2019 »S« Gau-Algesheim Abtei<br />
Frühburgunder trocken<br />
88 2018 Gau-Algesheim Johannisberg<br />
Kerner Auslese<br />
90 2019 »Ouvertüre« Gau-Algesheim<br />
Steinert Riesling trocken<br />
Fruity and classic Riesling nose of apricot and peach, also<br />
some mango. Well-built palate with extract and good density,<br />
the acidity is ripe and vivid and there is mineral grip<br />
and spice. Wine with character. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
525
WEINGUT ALEXANDER FLICK<br />
Brückesgasse 15, 55234 Bechtolsheim<br />
T: +49 (6733) 6814, info@weingut-flick.de<br />
www.weingut-flick.de<br />
Cellar Door: Thursdays and Fridays 13–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Alexander Flick<br />
Contact: Alexander Flick<br />
Hectares: 24 ha<br />
Alexander Flick has two unusual vintages<br />
in his cellar. This becomes immediately<br />
clear with two wines that reach<br />
high scores: the 2019 Morstein Riesling, brimming<br />
with mineral extract and the full-bodied<br />
yet balanced 2018 Blaufränkisch. We also<br />
found the Silvaner from the Siefersheim site<br />
Goldenes Horn really individual and sophisticated<br />
– a perfect refutation for those who<br />
think this variety cannot exceed mediocrity.<br />
We also love the textured Grauburgunder and<br />
the Chardonnays that only have the slightest<br />
touch of wood influence.<br />
93 2019 Westhofen Morstein<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
White peach, floral and citrus undertones. Impressive on the<br />
palate, rich and pronounced in fruit, but also kept in balance<br />
by cultivated acidity and a layer of fine phenolics. Intense<br />
tactile mineral finish. Pithy single-vineyard wine.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
91 2019 Siefersheim Goldenes Horn<br />
Silvaner trocken<br />
Herbal spicy notes on the nose and some flint. Still some<br />
yeasty notes. On the palate powerful, juicy, dry phenolics,<br />
still very compact and introverted, very well-proportioned,<br />
really dry with very good potential. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 »Réserve« Grauburgunder trocken<br />
A berryish and nutty varietal style, Brazil nut, very full-bodied<br />
on the palate, striking acidity and powerful phenolics, sophisticated<br />
construction, dense and slightly tactile mineral<br />
underpinnings. Quite dry and still very young, needs two or<br />
three years of bottle age. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
93 2018 Blaufränkisch trocken<br />
Amarena cherry, white pepper and pine on the nose. Supple<br />
opening, immediately vivid juicy fruit, great fullness without<br />
being overblown with fine-grained tannins. Rich yet fresh,<br />
discreetly mineral, long. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2017 Gau-Odernheim Herrgottspfad<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 »Jakob« Riesling feinherb<br />
89 2019 »Alexander« Bechtolsheim<br />
Klosterberg Chardonnay trocken<br />
88 2019 Gau-Odernheim Riesling trocken<br />
88 2019 Bechtolsheim Weissburgunder tr.<br />
89 2019 »Flickwerk« Rosé trocken<br />
89 2018 »Von Berg und Tal« trocken<br />
CU/CD/CS/ME/AC<br />
89 2019 Gau-Odernheim Chardonnay tr.<br />
Very fragrant, spice box with hints of nutmeg, flax and<br />
yeast. Round and smooth on the palate, stable acidity, a<br />
touch of sweetness, round and textured on the finish. Fulfils<br />
the expectations of a lightly-oaked Chardonnay.<br />
13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
526 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Rheinhessen | WINERIES<br />
<br />
GUTGALLÉ RHEINHESSEN<br />
Langgasse 69, 55237 Flonheim<br />
T: +49 (6734) 8961, info@gutgalle.de<br />
www.gutgalle.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Klaus Gallé and Jonathan Gallé<br />
Contact: Klaus, Ortrud and Jonathan Gallé<br />
Hectares: 13 ha<br />
This year there are reasons to celebrate at<br />
GutGallé: it was 25 years ago that Ortrud<br />
and Klaus Gallé founded their estate<br />
which has evolved ever since. Now, their<br />
son Jonathan has a bigger influence where aesthetics<br />
and style are concerned. Some of the labels<br />
stand out with demonstrative colour but<br />
the wines, too, show the courage to be individualistic:<br />
like the Riesling La Roche with its<br />
phenolic layers and limestone savouriness.<br />
The Spätburgunder from the same site takes<br />
the top spot where reds are concerned. The dry<br />
Kabinett is most filigree. Congratulations!<br />
92 2019 Uffhofen La Roche Riesling trocken<br />
Citrus fruit and apple on the nose with stone fruit, herbs and<br />
spice. On the palate full-bodied with juicy yellow fruit, ripe<br />
acidity and some lemon juice, firm and powerful structure,<br />
spicy notes, chalky mineral underpinning, fine phenolic layering.<br />
13 Vol.-%. glass, €€<br />
90 2019 Flonheim Weissburgunder trocken<br />
White flowers, ground almond, fine apricot with smoky, floral<br />
and toasty aromas. Broad and juicy on the palate with a spicy<br />
background, the acidity carries and comes with a slightly<br />
salty accent, phenolic. Shows power and substance with elegant<br />
facets. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2019 »Identität« Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Ripe grapefruit and gooseberry on the nose, also tomato leaf,<br />
peppery spice, Asian spice and ripe yellow fruit. The palate is<br />
attractively juicy and spicy with transparent expression, ripe<br />
structure, good balance and also complexity.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
91 2018 Uffhofen La Roche Spätburgunder tr.<br />
Red fruit and also dark cherry with violets, raspberry, nice Pinot<br />
scent with well-integrated wood spice. On the palate<br />
there is beautiful spice with mineral background, compact<br />
yet powerfully-built, dry, vivid acidity with good potential for<br />
further evolution. 14 Vol.-%. glass, €€€<br />
90 2017 Flonheim Rotenpfad Silvaner trocken<br />
89 2019 Wöllstein Riesling trocken<br />
88 2019 Chardonnay trocken<br />
88 2019 Grauburgunder trocken<br />
87 2019 »Guter Fruchtiger« Scheurebe<br />
89 2017 »Pétillant Naturel Rosé«<br />
89 2018 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 »Guter Leichter«<br />
Riesling Kabinett trocken<br />
Fruity notes of apricot, mirabelle plum with floral notes<br />
and a little elderflower; emphatically-lean structure. On<br />
the palate there is low alcohol and a beautiful, straight<br />
flow, the filigree nature is enhanced by vivid acidity, pure<br />
citrus fruit, true Kabinett style. 11 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
527
WEINGUT GEHRING<br />
Ausserhalb 17, 55283 Nierstein<br />
T: +49 (6133) 5470, info@weingut-gehring.com<br />
www.weingut-gehring.com<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Theo Gehring<br />
Contact: Theo Gehring<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 150,000 (88 % white, 12 % red)/12 ha<br />
If you like surprises, Weingut Gehring is the<br />
right place for you. Apart from their rare<br />
Gelber Orleans which garners most respectable<br />
scores each year, they have now also<br />
presented us with a “Kleiner Heunisch” that<br />
convinces with spicy and Burgundian grace.<br />
The Rieslings – e.g. from the Pettenthal site –<br />
show the typical minerality of the “Roter<br />
Hang”, in a most elegant fashion. Likewise, the<br />
Pinot-varieties show sophistication and style.<br />
Currently, Theo and Diana Gehring are being<br />
supported by their daughter Gina who has finished<br />
her vocational training as vintner. This<br />
means we can look forward to further surprises.<br />
92 2018 Nierstein Pettenthal Riesling trocken<br />
Ripe stone fruit and citrus on the nose, the spiciness of the<br />
site and a hint of petrol. Lightness of touch on the palate,<br />
medium-weight, elegant, fine sweetness, filigree acidity,<br />
beautiful flow and the minerality of the Roter Hang; fine astringency<br />
on the finish. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
92 2018 Nierstein Oelberg Gelber Orleans tr.<br />
Spicy and herbaceous with aromas of apple, apple peel and<br />
toasted sesame. Juicy on the palate with mild, well-integrated<br />
acidity. Soft impression and well-packed power underpinned<br />
by noticeable minerality. Salty hints, full of character.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
91 2019 Nierstein Hipping Riesling trocken<br />
On the nose ripe stone fruit and Roter Hang character, herbaceous,<br />
expressive, also dark aromas, apple skin, rosehip and<br />
apricot. Ripe acidity on the palate in a powerful and clearly-defined<br />
body, well-balanced, medium extract, fine phenolics<br />
and minerality. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
91 2018 »Alte Reben« Nierstein Oelberg<br />
Chardonnay trocken<br />
Smells of corn and flax, also ripe pear and yellow fruit with delicate<br />
smoke. The palate is soft and textured, with power to come,<br />
volume and spiciness and plenty of charm. Multi-layered and<br />
complex, still young, good potential. 14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
91 2019 »Alte Reben« Nierstein Bildstock<br />
Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
90 2017 Nierstein Schloss Schwabsburg<br />
Riesling brut nature<br />
89 2019 Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
88 2019 Scheurebe feinherb<br />
88 2019 »Blanc de Noir« trocken<br />
90 2018 Nierstein Bildstock<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
89 2018 Nierstein Bildstock<br />
Frühburgunder trocken<br />
92 2019 »Kleiner Heunisch« Auxerrois tr.<br />
White flowers and smoky notes on the nose with pear, apple<br />
and nectarine. Soft and spicy on the palate, good volume,<br />
with Burgundian grace, fine use of wood, sweet extract,<br />
clearly-emphasised fruit, restrained acidity, beautiful<br />
interpretation of a rare grape variety.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
528 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Rheinhessen | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT HELMUT GEIL<br />
Am Römer 26, 55234 Monzernheim<br />
T: +49 (6244) 220, info@geilwein.de<br />
www.geilwein.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Andreas Geil<br />
Contact: Andreas Geil<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 50,000 (60 % white, 40 % red)/9 ha<br />
The Geil family has been local to Monzernheim<br />
since the 18th century. Son Andreas<br />
now runs the estate and takes it to the<br />
future with great relish – underpinned by consistent<br />
performance at a high quality level. Just<br />
as in the previous year, we were quite smitten by<br />
the off-dry Scheurebe in the litre bottle. Wine<br />
does not have to be complicated to be fun – so<br />
we turned it into our Falstaff-tip. Andreas Geil<br />
also turned out great red wines, above all the<br />
Bechtheimer St. Laurent from the 2018 vintage,<br />
combining fine spice with a densely-woven<br />
structure – it was just the perfect accompaniment<br />
to a roasted saddle of venison.<br />
91 2018 Bechtheim St. Laurent trocken<br />
Rich, clear dark red. Spicy nose with sloe and sweet cherry,<br />
also some cinnamon and clove. On the palate fine tannins,<br />
spicy cherry, sloe and also some smoke. Medium, elegant<br />
structure, nice length, very well done.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €<br />
90 2018 Westhofen Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Rich, clear cherry red. On the nose ripe fruit, plum, sweet<br />
cherry, blackberry, some smoke and milk chocolate. On the<br />
palate ripe, textured tannins, ripe red fruits, Amarena cherry,<br />
powerful and with nice length, traditional.<br />
14 Vol.-%. cork, €<br />
89 2019 Westhofen Grauburgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
88 2019 Scheurebe trocken<br />
88 2019 Weissburgunder trocken<br />
88 2019 Grauburgunder trocken<br />
88 2019 Westhofen Albalonga Spätlese<br />
88 2019 Huxelrebe Spätlese<br />
90 2019 Weissburgunder & Chardonnay tr.<br />
Medium, clear yellow. On the nose some vanilla, fine smoke,<br />
peach and apricot, with some citrus underneath. On the<br />
palate fine texture, nice vein of acidity, ripe apple and some<br />
hazelnut, good structure and length.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 Bechtheim Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Clear, light yellow. On the nose elderflower and blackcurrant<br />
with some citrus fruit. Medium acidity on the palate, juicy,<br />
more elderberry and blackcurrant, some lively cherry, medium<br />
length and structure. Attractive aperitif.<br />
12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 Scheurebe feinherb<br />
Bright, clear yellow. On the nose some smoke and blackcurrant.<br />
On the palate fine citrus fruit, some elderberry,<br />
cassis, mirabelle plum, harmonious acidity and finelyrounded.<br />
Light and fresh, medium length, refreshing.<br />
11,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
529
WEINGUT OEKONOMIERAT<br />
JOHANN GEIL I. ERBEN<br />
Kuhpfortenstrasse 11, 67595 Bechtheim<br />
T: +49 (6242) 1546, info@weingut-geil.de<br />
www.weingut-geil.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–12 and<br />
13–17 hrs, Saturdays 8–12 and 13–16 hrs by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Johannes Geil-Bierschenk<br />
Contact: Elisabeth Geil-Bierschenk<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 250,000 (70 % white, 30 % red)/32 ha<br />
This longstanding estate with its 150-<br />
year history has a firm focus on Riesling,<br />
Pinot and Silvaner – all of which<br />
turn out in delicious and calm fashion. Cellar<br />
master Johannes Geil-Bierschenk makes individual<br />
wines which are balanced and most animating.<br />
We liked the Riesling from the<br />
Geyersberg site in particular, showing great<br />
ageing potential with its power and juicy nature.<br />
Silvaner lovers can be happy about the<br />
“S” from Bechtheim which comes across as<br />
spicy and harmonious – a great wine!<br />
92 2019 Bechtheim Geyersberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Medium, clear yellow. Clear scent of lime peel, peach, lemon<br />
balm and some hot stone. Lively, fine acidity on the palate,<br />
passion fruit juice, mineral thread, mint and flint. Good structure,<br />
nice length, powerful, potential. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2019 »S« Bechtheim<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
91 2019 »Reserve« Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Medium, clear yellow. On the nose, vanilla, smoke, pear skin,<br />
quince, fine spice. Mirabelle plum comes through. On the palate<br />
harmonious acidity, with texture and drive and touch of<br />
vanilla and ripe fruit. Drive and power, good structure and<br />
nice length, potential. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2019 Bechtheim Hasensprung<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Medium, clear yellow. On the nose citrus fruit, some smoke,<br />
redcurrant and grapefruit peel. On the palate bright acidity,<br />
lemon, passion fruit, mint, fresh and lively. Has traction, medium<br />
structure and a nice length. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2019 »S« Bechtheim Silvaner trocken<br />
Clear, light yellow. On the nose freshly cut grass, lemon<br />
balm, pear, ripe apple, some ripe citrus fruit. On the palate<br />
harmonious acidity and nice texture, lots of spice, apple,<br />
quince, lively, good structure and length.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 »S« Bechtheim Riesling trocken<br />
Medium, clear yellow. On the nose citrus fruit, mango,<br />
spice, overall rather expansive. Lively acidity on the palate,<br />
has traction, ripe fruit, mango, passion fruit, red grapefruit,<br />
shows a powerful structure and nice length.<br />
13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
530 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Rheinhessen | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT GOLDSCHMIDT<br />
Enzingerstrasse 27–31, 67551 Worms<br />
T: +49 (6247) 7044, weingut.goldschmidt@t-online.de<br />
www.wein-goldschmidt.de<br />
Cellar Door: Fridays 13–18 hrs, Saturdays 10–18 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Uli and Jonas Goldschmidt<br />
Contact: Uli, Elke and Jonas Goldschmidt<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 60,000 (65 % white, 35 % red)/15 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
Inter-generational relations are cordial<br />
and smooth at Weingut Goldschmidt. Uli<br />
Goldschmidt and his son Jonas share the<br />
responsibilities in vineyard and cellar – and Jonas<br />
sets new standards with his exciting series<br />
of barrique-fermented white wines called<br />
“Edition Jonas”. All the wines from this estate<br />
which has been certified organic ever since<br />
2002, in fact, have natural aura and serenity.<br />
Their Riesling “S” shows real class and purity,<br />
their rare Grünfränkisch shows a savoury profile,<br />
while the ripe and confident Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon opens new perspectives. Everything<br />
is solid here.<br />
91 2019 »S« Dalsheim Bürgel Riesling trocken<br />
The nose shows apple and herbal notes, also freshly-grated<br />
lemon peel, floral hints. Well-built on the palate, lean and<br />
athletic with good extract, juicy and spicy, more lemon notes,<br />
cultivated acidity, good balance with a mineral finish.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
tannins and attractive spice, penetrating, good density, long<br />
and consistent. Rheinhessen can also offer Cabernet. A big<br />
wine. 14,5 Vol.-%. cork, €<br />
89 2019 Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
90 2019 »Edition Jonas« Pfeddersheim<br />
Kreuzblick Chardonnay trocken<br />
Closed nose with smoky aromas, also pear, melon and apricot.<br />
Powerful structure on the palate, subtle juice and spice,<br />
good sweet extract and density, the ripe acidity carries well.<br />
This is likely to age well and has gastronomic potential.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 »Edition Jonas«<br />
Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
Walnut shell, smoke and ripe pear, yellow fruit, herbs and<br />
spices. Lean and firm structure on the palate, good extract,<br />
juice and texture combine with spice and fine sweetness,<br />
pure fruit. Elegant Pinot style that belongs on the table.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2018 Dalsheim Steig<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon trocken<br />
Powerful nose of ripe blackcurrant, black cherry and finelybalanced<br />
wood spice. Powerful Cabernet Sauvignon with ripe<br />
89 2019 Grünfränkisch trocken<br />
Delicately spicy aroma of green apple and ripe citrus fruit<br />
with herbs and nutty aromas. Fresh and juicy with fine<br />
spice on the palate, a balanced wine at one with its ripe<br />
acid structure and minerality. Characterful grape variety.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
531
WEINGUT ECKEHART GRÖHL<br />
Uelversheimer Strasse 4, 55278 Weinolsheim<br />
T: +49 (6249) 809000, info@weingut-groehl.de<br />
www.weingut-groehl.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–12.30 hrs and<br />
14–17 hrs, Saturdays 10–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Eckehart Gröhl<br />
Contact: Eckehart Gröhl<br />
Hectares: 25 ha<br />
The future looks bright for the Gröhl<br />
family: they have a diverse portfolio of<br />
sites covering 25 hectares, stretching<br />
from Weinolsheim all the way to the Roter<br />
Hang, or Red Slope, in Nierstein. Daughter<br />
Franziska and son Johannes, the thirteenth<br />
generation of the family, are now supporting<br />
their parents Angela and Eckehart Gröhl and<br />
contribute fresh ideas. We tasted a diverse and<br />
multi-faceted range of wines of which a number<br />
of wines stood out: the mineral Riesling<br />
from Pettenthal and the elegantly-woven Pinot<br />
Noir from the Niersteiner Hölle. Flawless!<br />
91 2019 Nierstein Pettenthal Riesling trocken<br />
Bright fruit, finely-concentrated, floral nuances, fresh stone<br />
fruit, apricot and mirabelle plum, fine minerality and structure.<br />
On the palate fine, flowing, stony, yet deliciously juicy,<br />
lightly spicy, delicious bitter tones, fine acid structure, citric<br />
traction. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2019 Nierstein Ölberg Riesling trocken<br />
Rich, fresh nose with fine grip, yellow-green fruit and a hint of<br />
light pepper. Juicy on the palate with mineral-fresh acidity,<br />
lemon zest, light orange and stone fruit and meadow herb.<br />
Lively, mineral and finely-grained towards the finish.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 »Roter Hang« Nierstein<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
89 2018 Nierstein Hölle Weissburgunder tr.<br />
88 2019 »Kalkstein« Nierstein<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
88 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
88 2019 Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
87 2019 Dalheim Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
91 2016 Nierstein Hölle Pinot Noir trocken<br />
Complex aromas of toast, stone, spice, iodine, iron, flowers<br />
and cherry. Flowing on the palate, juicy and slightly salty.<br />
Nice balance, some cherry fruit and violets, elegantly-woven<br />
with grippy tannin. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2016 Oppenheim Herrenberg<br />
Pinot Noir trocken<br />
Fragrant nose with toasted notes, autumnal hints, violets,<br />
light berries, also some pastry. Finely-woven on the palate,<br />
discreet cherry fruit and balanced acidity. Violets, nutty and<br />
toasty tones, discreet juice and grippy tannin.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 »Kalkstein« Oppenheim<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Fresh yellow fruit, notes of orange, ripe and at the same<br />
time fresh hints with some limestone minerality. Juicy,<br />
round and full-bodied on the palate. Light peach, orange<br />
zest, fine bitter tones and tangy, playful acidity.<br />
13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
532 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Rheinhessen | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT GUNDERLOCH<br />
Carl-Gunderloch-Platz 1, 55299 Nackenheim<br />
T: +49 (6135) 2341, info@gunderloch.de<br />
www.gunderloch.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–16 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 11–14 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Johannes Hasselbach<br />
Contact: Johannes Hasselbach<br />
Hectares: 24 ha<br />
Tasting his current range of wines, it is<br />
hard to believe that Johannes Hasselback<br />
has only been at the helm of this<br />
estate for five years. His signature comes<br />
across as dynamic and well-practised, the<br />
wines have finesse and an irresistibly clear<br />
style. The Grosse Gewächse manage to pack a<br />
ton of extract into what remains taut and slender.<br />
The entry-level wines are so focused on<br />
minerality that we had trouble choosing our<br />
Falstaff-tip: the Sauvignon is edgy, the Kabinett<br />
“Jean Baptiste” is a pure classic, while the<br />
Nackenheimer village Riesling is enchantingly<br />
playful.<br />
97 2019 Nierstein Pettenthal Riesling GG<br />
Herbal notes, apple peel, malt and herb bed, drive on the<br />
nose. Clear and juicy on the palate, precise in expression,<br />
lean and taut, crystalline, the acidity is as if drawn with a ruler<br />
and the minerality expresses the Rote Hang. Youthful and<br />
skillfully-made. 11,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
mineral component. A stylish Sauvignon from the Rote<br />
Hang! 12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2019 »vom Roten Schiefer«<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
95 2019 Nackenheim Rothenberg Riesling GG<br />
Herbal and spicy notes on the nose, some smoke, apple skin,<br />
apricot, malt and hop flowers. Lean and firmly-built on the<br />
palate with ripe and vivid acidity, phenolic and dense; considerable<br />
intensity in a slender format, mineral and full of character.<br />
11,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
92 2019 Nackenheim Riesling<br />
Aus Ersten Lagen trocken<br />
Mineral and spicy on the nose, underpinned with ripe but not<br />
overripe fruit, yellow plum, medlar. On the palate silky and<br />
poised, fine acidity, peppery and mineral aromas, tactile<br />
components, very dry but not rough in the slightest.<br />
11,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
91 2019 »vom Stein«<br />
Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Kiwi and green gooseberry, a finely-spiced varietal scent.<br />
Taut on the palate, with crunchy acidity, full-bodied and mineral,<br />
straightforwardly dry and very persistent, especially the<br />
91 2019 »Jean Baptiste« Riesling<br />
Kabinett feinherb<br />
Peppery and floral on the nose, the minerality of the Rote<br />
Hang is easily recognisable. Juicy on the palate, delicious,<br />
not overly sweet, fine-boned but long lasting acidity. A delicious<br />
Kabinett that really delivers. 10,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
533
WEINGUT LOUIS GUNTRUM<br />
Rheinallee 62, 55283 Nierstein<br />
T: +49 (6133) 97170, info@guntrum.de<br />
www.guntrum.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Thursdays 7–12 hrs and<br />
13–16.30 hrs, Fridays 7–12 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Dirk Roth<br />
Contact: Louis Konstantin Guntrum<br />
Hectares: 15 ha<br />
We are very pleased with the wines<br />
that Konstantin Guntrum and cellar<br />
master Dirk Roth presented: the<br />
single-site wines show their provenance with<br />
intensity and freshness and have transformed<br />
the 2019 vintage with an extra portion of mineral<br />
tension. There is no need to hurry with<br />
these wines, the Oppenheimer Sackträger will<br />
easily last a five-year distance, the Niersteiner<br />
Oelberg at least a decade and Hipping even<br />
longer. Thankfully there also are wines like the<br />
Niersteiner village wine, or the Sekt, which give<br />
much pleasure in the interim. We also liked the<br />
gastronomically-inspired Spätburgunder.<br />
93 2018 »Grosses Gewächs« Nierstein Hipping<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Tangerine, balsamic notes, very mineral. Slightly floral, silky<br />
and rounded on the palate, broad, supple, fine phenolics with<br />
slightly viscous layers, the acidity seamlessly connected to<br />
the body. A very refined single-site wine, long finish.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2019 Oppenheim Sackträger<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
92 2019 Nierstein Oelberg Riesling trocken<br />
Red apple, plum, wet sand and slatey notes. Opening with<br />
juiciness on the palate, then deliciously phenolic and intense<br />
tactile minerality. Brisk acidity in a rich, very<br />
well-balanced wine. Good length. Made for ageing.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
92 2016 Riesling brut<br />
On the nose, citrus, ripe stone fruit (peach) and also a hint of<br />
petrol. Juicy on the palate with some saltiness. Lively acidity<br />
and neat mousse, showing incipient evolution and uncompromising<br />
rigour. 12 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2017 »Réserve« Pinot Noir trocken<br />
Spicy and ripe on the nose with varietal aromatic expression<br />
and hints of almond and cocoa, herbal spice and light cherries.<br />
Lots of juice on the palate, fine, slightly drying tannin,<br />
tense acidity on a powerful body, sinewy and gastronomic.<br />
14 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
89 2019 Nierstein Riesling trocken<br />
Yellow-fruity aroma, notes of orange zest, dense and lively<br />
on the palate, firm acid backbone, lots of juiciness, discreet<br />
spicy finish, the slightly mineral hue gives the wine elegance.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
534 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT GYSLER<br />
Rheinhessen | WINERIES<br />
Grosser Spitzenberg 8, 55232 Alzey-Weinheim<br />
T: +49 (6731) 41266, info@weingut-gysler.de<br />
www.weingut-gysler.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Alexander Gysler<br />
Contact: Sebastian Oberhausen<br />
Hectares: 12 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
Axel Gysler’s resolute attitude is to be<br />
admired: he has worked according to<br />
biodynamic principles since 2004,<br />
longer than most wine growers in the country.<br />
“Working with nature for us is craftmanship,<br />
the result is a cultural product and a pleasure,”<br />
he reports. He farms twelve hectares of vines<br />
around Alzey, the slightly cooler climate there<br />
and the constant winds characterise his wine<br />
style. All his wines have something in common<br />
and show their provenance. They carry names<br />
like “Sternenglanz” or “Klangwerk”: This<br />
may well sound poetic but it is expressed in the<br />
material substance of the wines.<br />
92 2018 »Klangwerk GG« Weinheim Hölle<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Notes of spontaneous fermentation on the nose, herbs, malt,<br />
apple skin, dark spices. On the palate juicy and spicy with a<br />
powerful structure, ripe fruit, good extract, power and also<br />
tension, citric notes, condensed on the mid palate, mineral<br />
and elegant. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
citrus fruits, taut and tightly-woven and phenolic tartness<br />
provides highlights. Coherent and complete, lean and rich.<br />
12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 »Feldstärke« Grauburgunder trocken<br />
91 2019 »Kammerton« Weinheim<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Finely-nuanced nose with apple and citrus fruit, stone fruit,<br />
spice, some lemongrass. Lean and taut with good proportions,<br />
lots of juice, tension and also density, the acidity is<br />
well-integrated; amazing what is packed into this slender<br />
format! 11,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
91 2015 »Pinot Blanc de Noir« brut nature<br />
Deep colour and powerful aroma of wild raspberry, cherry,<br />
blueberry and fine smoke. On the palate full-bodied, spicy<br />
and with incisive acidity, well-integrated power, shows texture<br />
and natural charm. Long on the palate, versatile at the<br />
table. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 »Sternenglanz«<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Spicy and floral notes, nectarine and some passion fruit,<br />
blackcurrant as well. On the palate dry and spicy, juice of ripe<br />
90 2019 »Sandstein« Riesling trocken<br />
Fruity nose of fine, ripe fruit, guava, apricot and apple.<br />
Juicy on the palate, slender structure, very finely-executed,<br />
some freshly-grated lemon zest, fine phenolic tartness,<br />
ripe and lively acidity, well-woven, elegant and delicate.<br />
11,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
535
WEINGUT HAUCK<br />
Albigerstrasse 15 Sonnenhof,<br />
55234 Bermersheim vor der Höhe<br />
T: +49 (6731) 1272, vinum@weingut-hauck.de<br />
www.weingut-hauck.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Saturdays 9–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Heinz-Günter and Jana Hauck<br />
Contact: The Hauck family<br />
Hectares: 30 ha<br />
Time and again we are surprised at what<br />
client-friendly wines the Hauck family<br />
manages to offer: accomplished<br />
Spätlesen of Riesling and Weissburgunder are<br />
to be had for a mere EUR 7.80. In any case,<br />
you get a lot of bang for your buck here. Apart<br />
from the classic Spätlesen, both the<br />
“kunststück” made from Weissburgunder and<br />
Auxerrois, and the red blend “essential” from<br />
Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon stand out.<br />
This shows where the new generation, personified<br />
by Jana Hauck, might take the estate in<br />
the future. Exciting!<br />
90 2019 »Alte Reben« Bermersheim<br />
Klosterberg Riesling Spätlese trocken<br />
Concentrated aromas of ripe stone fruit, apricot and vine<br />
peach, also mango. Generosity, depth and freshness combine<br />
on the palate, good extract, lively acidity sets the tone,<br />
fine mineral polish, good length. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2019 Bermersheim Hildegardisberg<br />
Weissburgunder Spätlese trocken<br />
Pear and apricot on the nose, fine smoke and spice, also<br />
some banana. Textured and juicy on the palate, smooth foundation,<br />
well-integrated acidity, slight fruit sweetness. Good<br />
balance, wraps up its complexity in a most elegant fashion.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
91 2017 »essential« Bermersheimer<br />
Klosterberg trocken ME/CS<br />
Blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, powerful aroma of<br />
cassis, wood spice, toasted notes, forest floor and leaves.<br />
Well-balanced on the palate, good extract, fine fruit sweetness,<br />
ripe and vivid acid vein, distinctive tannins, still slightly<br />
astringent. Good potential. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €<br />
90 2018 »Réserve« Bermersheim Klosterberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Strong cherry fruit with wood spice and toasted aromas,<br />
chocolate-coated cherry in Kirsch and rosemary. Powerful<br />
and broad on the palate, there is power and force, concentrated<br />
expression of a warm year and ripe acidity. Generous<br />
in evey aspect, yet elegant. 14 Vol.-%. DIAM, €€<br />
90 2019 Bermersheim Klosterberg<br />
Riesling Auslese<br />
89 2019 »Hildegard« Silvaner trocken<br />
89 2019 Bermersheim Hildegardisberg<br />
Grauer Burgunder Spätlese trocken<br />
89 2019 Chardonnay & Weisser Burgunder tr.<br />
89 2019 Auxerrois trocken<br />
88 2016 »Pinot« brut<br />
89 2019 »Jana« Rosé trocken<br />
90 2019 »kunststück« trocken WB/AU<br />
Blend of Weissburgunder and Auxerrois, spicy aroma, mirabelle<br />
plum, lemongrass, white flowers, toasted sesame<br />
and some butter. On the palate there is ripe, well-integrated<br />
acidity, slender structure, good traction, fine spiciness,<br />
balanced in harmonious proportions, refined.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
536 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Rheinhessen | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT HEILIGENBLUT<br />
Hauptstrasse 114, 55232 Alzey<br />
T: +49 (176) 45804433, info@heiligenblut-wein.de<br />
www.heiligenblut-wein.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Christian and Martin Hannemann<br />
Contact: Christian and Martin Hannemann<br />
Hectares: 15 ha<br />
The name of the estate may sound martial,<br />
but there is no need to fear the<br />
Rieslings or Scheureben which grow on<br />
the Heilger Blutberg – a monopole site of a<br />
mere three hectares. The times when monks<br />
were executed here are long gone. What happens<br />
today is much more pleasant: Brothers<br />
Christian and Martin Hannemann, the fourth<br />
generation, took their family estate over in<br />
2018 – and evidently they are going full throttle.<br />
They manage to convert the conditions of<br />
the black volcanic soils into mineral-driven,<br />
dry and classically fruity Kabinett wines.<br />
92 2019 Weinheim Heiliger Blutberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Passion fruit and coriander seed, blood orange, a spicy fruit<br />
scent. On the palate very finely-staged, powerful extract,<br />
clear minerality, fine phenolics, ripe acidity, restrained<br />
sweetness supporting the volume. Marked by its terroir.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
sweetness, high intensity due to the acidity, quite a classic<br />
Kabinett. 9,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 Scheurebe Kabinett<br />
92 2019 Weinheim Heiliger Blutberg<br />
Riesling Kabinett<br />
Citrusy and spicy aromas with caraway, almond and hints of<br />
wood notes. Very classic on nose and palate: light, with racy<br />
acidity and a real Kabinett sweetness that is only delicately<br />
apparent on the finish. Mineral background.<br />
9 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2018 Weinheim Heiliger Blutberg<br />
Riesling Kabinett<br />
A hint of petrol on the nose, blotting paper, but also mirabelle<br />
plum. Soft in the attack for a short moment, then juicy<br />
with a firm acid backbone, elegant Kabinett lightness, a little<br />
mineral underlay with a fine spicy finish.<br />
8,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2019 Weinheim Riesling Kabinett<br />
Strawberry and rhubarb jam on the nose, lemon, fresh and<br />
clear. Crunchy acidity, juicy and light on its feet, restrained<br />
90 2019 »Melaphyr« Weinheim Riesling tr.<br />
Slightly floral fragrance, jasmine, cherry blossom, tangerine,<br />
also a little bit flinty and mineral. Well-built palate,<br />
firm acidity, restrained sweetness, fresh and slightly tangy<br />
with lots of juiciness on the finish. Elegant, mineral style.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
537
WEINGUT HEMMES<br />
Grabenstrasse 13 & 34, 55411 Bingen am Rhein<br />
T: +49 (6721) 1 24 20, info@weingut-hemmes.de<br />
www.weingut-hemmes.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 10–12 hrs and<br />
14–18 hrs, Sa 10–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Frank and Felix Hemmes<br />
Contact: Frank Hemmes<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 150,000 (75 % white, 25 % red)/20 ha<br />
Frank and Felix Hemmes continue in the<br />
same vein as last year: once again this<br />
father-son team presented a balanced<br />
and sophisticated range of wines. You can feel<br />
that the two generations get on well since Felix<br />
Hemmes joined the estate and adds his influence.<br />
The labels had a re-design for the 2018<br />
vintage and the 20 hectares of vines are farmed<br />
in tune with nature. The wines come across as<br />
powerful and linear, but also refined, like the<br />
Riesling Auslese, for instance. The former village<br />
classroom now serves as their wine shop/<br />
cellar door.<br />
91 2019 »Urgestein« Riesling trocken<br />
Some peach and apricot, but mainly balsamic, stony notes.<br />
Juicy and racy on the palate, good mineral tension, discreet<br />
sweetness, compact structure, harmonious now - but will<br />
continue to develop very favourably. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2019 Bingen Riesling trocken<br />
Peach and apricot on the nose, flinty mineral notes and<br />
stewed apple and yellow fruit. The palate offers good balance<br />
of body and texture, a juicy style with acidity and minerality.<br />
Medium weight in depth and length, spicy finish.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
92 2018 Bingen Kirchberg Spätburgunder tr.<br />
Complex aromas of sour cherry, herbal bitters, bay leaf and<br />
chocolate powder. Powdery tannin on the palate with a<br />
smooth ripe body and medium density, strong alcohol, ripe<br />
acidity. A firm, very well-built wine with classic proportions.<br />
Elegant, lots of potential. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2018 Bingen Scharlachberg<br />
Riesling Auslese<br />
Caramel, stewed apple and sultana on the nose. On the palate,<br />
rounded fruit with hints of fine spice and minerals. Supple<br />
with fine silky sweetness and ripe acidity. Poised and discreetly<br />
tactile in structure. Not a monster Auslese.<br />
8 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
89 2019 Scheurebe trocken<br />
89 2018 Bingen Viognier trocken<br />
89 2019 »I sell« Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 Riesling Kabinett<br />
88 2019 Chardonnay trocken<br />
88 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
90 2016 »Carlot« trocken CS/ME/RE<br />
89 2019 »Blanc de noir« trocken<br />
Finely-nuanced berry fruit on nose with grapey notes. Good<br />
concentration on the palate with juiciness and a fine<br />
sweetness with a cultivated and well-integrated acidity. An<br />
appetising, fruit-driven Blanc de Noir.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
538 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT HIESTAND<br />
Rheinhessen | WINERIES<br />
Nordhöferstrasse 19, 67583 Guntersblum<br />
T: +49 (6249) 2266, info@hiestand-weingut.de<br />
www.hiestand-weingut.de<br />
Cellar Door: Saturdays 10–18 hrs and by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Gunther Hiestand<br />
Contact: Gunther Hiestand<br />
Farming: organic<br />
We initially thought that the abbreviation<br />
“JJ” on the Kreuz Riesling<br />
stood for “Jrosses Jewächs” (i.e. a<br />
Berlin pronunciation of Grosses Gewächs), and<br />
indeed, the wine easily meets that expectation<br />
too. However, the village of Guntersblum is far<br />
from such northerly dialects and it turns out<br />
that “JJ” stands for the family ancestor Julius<br />
Jakob Hiestand (1876–1938). His successors<br />
wow us year after year with their organic wines.<br />
They are crafted in a precise fashion, come with<br />
bright aromatics and a clear expression – as<br />
well as an inner serenity and balance. Lovers of<br />
nuance are bound to be rewarded here.<br />
92 2017 Guntersblum Kreuz<br />
Riesling »JJ« trocken<br />
Distinctive Riesling style fruit with notes of orange, passion<br />
fruit and grapefruit and light hints of wood. Supple sweetness<br />
in the opening, lively, bright acidity, intense fruit,<br />
full-bodied yet very vivid and homogeneous, long finish.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2018 Guntersblum Silvaner trocken<br />
Fresh and herbaceous on the nose, slightly nutty - pure Sylvaner.<br />
Broad and soft on the palate, with a style typical of the<br />
vintage, but also with juiciness and balance. The acidity remains<br />
light, but carries well. A pleasant wine.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
91 2018 Guntersblum Riesling trocken<br />
Orange blossom, marigold, green pepper and hints of wood<br />
on the nose. Supple palate, silky delicious sweetness, ripe<br />
acidity, rich in substance yet retaining restraint and subtlety.<br />
Fresh and juicy despite the roundness typical of the vintage.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2017 Guntersblum Kachelberg<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Ripe spice interwoven with intensely yeasty notes. Pinot berries,<br />
herbs and a slight wood note. On the palate there are<br />
mealy phenolics, a layer of smoothness and sweetness, vivid<br />
acidity, still some reductive notes on the finish.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2018 Gewürztraminer trocken<br />
Smoky notes with hints of rose, allspice and pepper. Dry<br />
palate with pronounced rounded fruit, textural with delicious<br />
phenolics. Light acidity and an elegant spice carries<br />
into a very long finish. Superb! 14 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
539
WEINGUT HOFMANN<br />
Vor dem Klopp 4, 55437 Appenheim<br />
T: +49 (6725) 300063<br />
info@schiefer-trifft-muschelkalk.de<br />
www.schiefer-trifft-muschelkalk.de<br />
Cellar Door: Saturdays 9–12 hrs and 13–18 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Jürgen Hofmann<br />
Contact: Carolin Hofmann<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 240,000 (96 % white, 4 % red)/22 ha<br />
Jürgen Hofmann has found his style. His<br />
“Appenheim School of Thought” which<br />
he founded and which stands for taut<br />
concentration with a touch of phenolics, is a<br />
little more approachable now. Yet, his terroir<br />
wines, like the firm Hundertgulden Riesling or<br />
the naturally slightly more full-bodied Ölberg<br />
from the Roter Hang, or Red Slope, remain<br />
clearly recognisable. His Weissburgunder, already<br />
made in a clearly gastronomic fashion,<br />
are also worth a mention. His “Urmeer” is an<br />
absolutely kitsch-free zone and captures us<br />
with its fine herbal savouriness.<br />
92 2019 Nierstein Ölberg Riesling trocken<br />
On the nose light and elegant layers of yellow fruit, melon<br />
and bright apple. The palate offers a juicy vibrant freshness<br />
and elegant light stone fruit with orange blossom.<br />
Nice grip and ripe, lively acid structure.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
91 2019 Appenheim Eselspfad<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Fresh, clear, lively, with bright fruit. Supple, juicy on the palate,<br />
tart nuances, fine fruit sweetness, orange blossom, delicious<br />
herbaceousness and grip, ripe citric acidity, animating,<br />
juicy, light. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
88 2019 »vom Muschelkalk« Appenheim<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
91 2019 Appenheim Hundertgulden<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Deep, finely-spicy, green apple, stone fruit, floral hints, meadow<br />
herbs and mineral notes. Juicy on the palate, red apple<br />
and bright citrus fruit on the finish. Straightforward dry<br />
freshness and fresh acidity. Shows distinctive site character.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
91 2019 »MG« Gau-Algesheim St.<br />
Laurenzikapelle Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
On the nose fine smokiness, bright fruit and delicious herbal<br />
spiciness. Fresh and clear on the palate, with fine juice, phenolic<br />
and grip. Citrusy acidity, with its own character and animating<br />
delicacy, focused and linear.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
90 2019 »Urmeer« Appenheim<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Juicy nose with notes of pear, apple and almond. Vibrant<br />
and fresh with a flowing, juicy palate full of green-yellow<br />
fruit offering a discreet sweetness. Behind it fine layers of<br />
spice and herbs, ripe acidity and an overall tight structure.<br />
13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
540 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Rheinhessen | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT FRITZ EKKEHARD HUFF<br />
Hauptstrasse 90, 55283 Nierstein<br />
T: +49 (6133) 58003, info@weingut-huff.de<br />
www.weingut-huff.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–12 hrs and<br />
13–18 hrs, Saturdays 9–17 hrs by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Christine Huff and Jeremy Bird-Huff<br />
Contact: Christine and Doris Huff<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 50,000 (75 % white, 25 % red)/9 ha<br />
There is one thing that Christine Huff<br />
and her husband Jeremy Bird-Huff<br />
have managed in the past few years with<br />
impressive consistency: Weingut Fritz Ekkehard<br />
Huff with its nine hectares of vines now is<br />
a sought-after address in Nierstein and the Roter<br />
Hang, or Red Slope. Steep sites, like Schloss<br />
Schwabsburg which is particularly treasured<br />
by Christine Huff, now have high currency<br />
even beyond regional confines. Once again her<br />
Riesling “Rabenturm” convinces with its firm<br />
structure and mineral grip. The concentrated<br />
and finely-woven Beerenauslese from the same<br />
site is equally impressive. Exquisite!<br />
92 2019 Nierstein Pettenthal<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
On the nose bright yellow fruit, apricot and nectarine, also<br />
stony minerality, compact and lively on the palate. Juicy with<br />
stone fruit, imminent power and finely-pronounced fruitiness.<br />
Nuanced, with tension, fine saltiness and citrusy, grippy<br />
acidity. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork/screwcap, €€€<br />
also traction, apricot and juicy citrus fruit. Fresh and mineral<br />
on the finish. 8 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
88 2019 »The Yellow Bird« Nierstein<br />
Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
92 2019 »Rabenturm« Nierstein Schloss<br />
Schwabsburg Riesling trocken<br />
Red-green fruit on the nose, apple, rosehip, floral hints, fine<br />
herbaceousness. Supple on the palate, intricate flow, stone<br />
fruit, orange blossom, juicy citric acidity, a hint of liquorice,<br />
creamy with spicy acid grip and good traction on the finish.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2019 Nierstein Orbel Riesling trocken<br />
Fine spicy, yellow and red fruit, fresh apple and also meadow<br />
herbs, dense and centred. Mature, lively fruit on the palate<br />
with peach and apricot, fine minerality, straight acidity, increasingly<br />
focused towards the end. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
93 2019 Nierstein Schloss Schwabsburg<br />
Riesling Beerenauslese<br />
Concentrated bouquet, dense and firm, apricot, vine peach,<br />
fresh citrus, ripe fruit and mint. On the palate clear extract,<br />
beautiful sweetness-acidity interplay, concentration, but<br />
90 2019 Schwabsburg Riesling trocken<br />
Fine herbal, full-fruited, complex and focused nose with<br />
ripe fruit, peach and apricot, wet stone. Juicy palate, yellow-green<br />
fruit, subtle fruit sweetness and zesty acidity<br />
with fine mineral grip. Shows the typicity for Roter Hang.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
541
GEORG GUSTAV HUFF<br />
Woogstrasse 1, 55283 Nierstein-Schwabsburg<br />
T: +49 (6133) 50514, info@weingut-huff.com<br />
www.weingut-huff.com<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–12 hrs and<br />
13.30–18 hrs, Saturdays 9–17 hrs, Sundays 10–12 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Stefan and Daniel Huff<br />
Contact: The Huff family<br />
Hectares: 25 ha<br />
Responsibilities and competences are<br />
clear-cut at Weingut Georg Gustav<br />
Huff: Stefan Huff looks after the red<br />
wines, his brother Daniel after the whites –<br />
while father Dieter can usually be found in the<br />
vineyards on the Roter Hang, or Red Slope.<br />
And we have no doubt that they are a most<br />
well-coordinated team – how else could we<br />
explain that they yet again presented an outstanding<br />
range of wines. The Rieslings offer<br />
minerality depth, tension and elegance; the Pinots<br />
offer substance and grip. And the Silvaner<br />
will even convince sceptics.<br />
93 2019 Nierstein Pettenthal Rehbacher Steig<br />
Sommerseite Riesling trocken<br />
Complex, clear, spice on the nose; red and yellow fruit, meadow<br />
herb, sweet, fresh apple and ferric notes. The palate is<br />
more restrained with juicy fruit, initially flowing but increasingly<br />
spicy, firm and mineral. Tapering towards a multi-layered<br />
finish. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2019 »Alte Reben« Nierstein Hipping<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Attractively-balanced on the nose, deep, intricate, yellow<br />
fruit, orange blossom, wet stone and herbs. The palate is<br />
well-judged with restrained proportions and flow. Finishes<br />
with stone-dusted minerality, citrus notes and juicy acidity.<br />
Multifaceted and elegant. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2018 »Réserve« Riesling trocken<br />
Smoky, stony nose. Grip, focus and bright fruit. Intricate on<br />
the palate, also fine juiciness, notes of tangerine, lemon,<br />
some stone fruit. Lean structure with firm, salty acidity.<br />
Slightly drying in the middle, but balanced and expressive.<br />
Citrusy-mineral aftertaste. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2019 Nierstein Schloss Schwabsburg<br />
Riesling Beerenauslese<br />
A fine nose with apple and liquorice and clear spiciness from<br />
the distinctive red soil. On the palate an almost brutal acidity,<br />
but well-integrated into the overall texture and sweetness<br />
along with the spicy minerality. The finish is round and<br />
smooth. Multifaceted and fascinating. 6,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2019 »Réserve« Pinot Blanc trocken<br />
91 2018 »Réserve« Pinot Gris trocken<br />
90 2019 Nierstein Schloss Schwabsburg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 »vom Löss« Riesling trocken<br />
88 2019 Nierstein Riesling Kabinett feinherb<br />
90 2017 »Alte Reben« Nierstein Rosenberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
89 2017 Nierstein Spätburgunder trocken<br />
91 2019 Nierstein Silvaner trocken<br />
Delicious and grippy on the nose with refreshing notes of<br />
ripe citrus fruit, pear, green apple and minerality. Silky on<br />
the palate. The juicy, lively acidity weaves itself into the<br />
texture, fine saltiness, a hint of freshly-grated citrus zest.<br />
Wonderfully balanced. 12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
542 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT JÄGER<br />
Rheinhessen | WINERIES<br />
Rheinstrasse 17, 55437 Ockenheim<br />
T: +49 (6725) 2330, weingut@jaegerwein.de<br />
www.jaegerwein.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–17 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–14 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Armin Jäger<br />
Contact: Diana Jäger<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 100,000 (50 % white, 50 % red)/15 ha<br />
Neronet may sound like a name for a<br />
red blend made from dark-coloured<br />
grape varieties but it is in fact a new<br />
crossing hailing from the Czech Republic,<br />
based on noble parentage: (St. Laurent x Blauer<br />
Portugieser) x (Alicante Bouschet x Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon). Weingut Jäger, which also is a<br />
nursery, has developed this crossing further<br />
and now makes decidedly interesting wines<br />
from it. We also liked their Blauer Spätburgunder<br />
with its slightly rounder stature, as is typical<br />
for the vintage – as well as the fruit-forward<br />
Sauvignon Blanc. The rest of the white<br />
wines easily play in that same league!<br />
89 2019 Ockenheim Schönhölle<br />
Chardonnay Spätlese trocken<br />
White flowers and some wood, vanilla and caramel on the<br />
nose. On the palate there is some force, a layer of phenolics<br />
and pithy acidity provide the counterpoint to the powerful<br />
body, the mid-palate is dense and pronounced in fruity leading<br />
to a pronounced yellow-fruited finish.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2018 Blauer Burgunder trocken<br />
Bitter chocolate and herbs, thyme, also peppery notes on the<br />
nose. Creamy base on the palate, with a medium dose of finegrained<br />
tannins. The ripe acidity holds well with the dark berry<br />
and Pinot fruit. Generous, rich body and finish.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. synthetic closure , €<br />
87 2019 Ockenheim Schönhölle<br />
Silvaner trocken<br />
88 2019 Ockenheim Hockenmühle<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Citrus on the nose, with alcohol and acidity accentuating the<br />
palate before a layer of slightly dry phenolics takes over in<br />
the middle. Has attractive length, freshness and tension. A<br />
good companion to hearty food. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
91 2018 Neronet trocken<br />
Violet pastille and liquorice, elderberry, blueberry and ethereal<br />
herbal notes dominate the aromatics. Dense on the palate<br />
with a fine-grained tannin, yet well-balanced with juicy<br />
ripe acidity. Concentrated youthful fruit, with a very clear<br />
and intense finish. 13 Vol.-%. synthetic closure , €<br />
89 2019 Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Appealing fruity aromatics of red gooseberry, Williams<br />
pear and discreet hints of yeast. The palate shows a good<br />
body, the sweetness-acidity ratio is harmonious, texture<br />
and slight saltiness give the wine something distinctive.<br />
Good length. 11,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
543
WEINGUT GEORG JUNG<br />
Alzeyerstrasse 4, 55278 Undenheim<br />
T: +49 (6737) 246, info@wein-macht-jung.de<br />
www.wein-macht-jung.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 16–19 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 9.30–12 hrs by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Johannes Jung<br />
Contact: Georg Jung<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 60,000 (70 % white, 30 % red)/17 ha<br />
Notwithstanding the fact that a hailstorm<br />
in April 2019 decimated the<br />
yields at Weingut Georg Jung, Johannes<br />
Jung reports that “the 2019 is a source<br />
of joy.” The young winemaker sets ever stronger<br />
influence at his parental winery. It was a<br />
stint in South Africa that spurred his passion<br />
for Chardonnay which he now matures in new<br />
barriques: his Chardonnay from the Undenheimer<br />
Goldberg is the top wine in a range of<br />
a rather sophisticated wines. His full-bodied<br />
and barrique-aged Sankt Laurent shows that<br />
Jung also knows how to handle reds. Onwards<br />
and upwards!<br />
91 2018 Undenheim Goldberg Chardonnay tr.<br />
Fine smoke on the nose, which lies over fruit aromas of pear<br />
and apricot and also spices. Broad on the palate, peppery<br />
spice allied to a smooth base with good balance, lots of substance,<br />
body, minerality and depth. Can evolve further.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
87 2019 Undenheim Chardonnay trocken<br />
90 2017 Undenheim Gib Gern Weissburgunder tr.<br />
Concentrated, ripe nose with fresh and dried apricot, apple,<br />
yellow flowers, spicy and floral notes. The palate also has apple<br />
notes, good extract, density and noticeable sweetness,<br />
much substance, ripe and supporting acidity, mineral underpinnings.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €<br />
89 2018 Spiesheim Rindertanz Riesling<br />
Ripe notes on the nose, petrol, peach and pineapple juice,<br />
also smoky notes. Powerful and tightly-built on the palate,<br />
wood balanced with sweetness; beautiful fruit, ripe acidity<br />
and mineral appeal. Riesling with good potential that still<br />
needs some time. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
88 2019 Undenheim Grauburgunder trocken<br />
Powerful aromas of fresh pear and caramelised pear, walnut<br />
and floral notes, honeycomb and resin. Noticeable sweetness<br />
on the palate with vivid acidity in a powerful and compact<br />
body, sweet extract, harmoniously-balanced.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
91 2018 Selzen St. Laurent Barrique trocken<br />
Smoky notes and concentrated wild berry aromas, cranberry,<br />
discreetly accompanied by herbal spices. Lots of<br />
juiciness and full, long-lasting fruit and drive. The strong<br />
alcohol recedes into a smooth finish with mineral tones.<br />
14,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
544 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
KAPELLENHOF<br />
Rheinhessen | WINERIES<br />
Kapellenstrasse 18, 55278 Selzen<br />
T: +49 (6737) 204, kapellenhof@t-online.de<br />
www.kapellenhof-selzen.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–17 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 9–14 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Thomas Schätzel<br />
Contact: Thomas Schätzel<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 120,000 (75 % white, 25 % red)/18 ha<br />
Thomas and Sabine Schätzel are the fifth<br />
generation of their family to run the<br />
Kapellenhof in its idyllic setting in the<br />
village of Selzen – and the estate can look back<br />
across a 600-year history. From his eighteen<br />
hectares of vines, most of them on mineral -<br />
rich soils of calcareous marl, Thomas Schätzel<br />
makes varietally-typical wines year on year.<br />
This year it is the multi-layered and dense<br />
“Selection” Riesling that is at the top of the<br />
range – but the other wines know how to<br />
convince, too. All of them absolutely work at<br />
the table. Solid!<br />
91 2018 »Ökonomierat E« Hahnheim Knopf<br />
Riesling trocken Selection Rheinhessen<br />
Intense aroma, ripe stone fruit, peach and apricot, also a hint<br />
of petrol and spicy impressions. Powerful and tightly-built on<br />
the palate with good extract, dense and complex, the ripe<br />
acidity is skilfully integrated with more spice and good minerality.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
88 2019 Selzen Am dicken Stein<br />
Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 »Kalkmergel« Hahnheim<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Fruity nose of white and yellow flowers, apricot and apple,<br />
also spice and with aromas of warm greenhouse. Well-balanced<br />
on the palate with ripe acidity and clear fruit, powerful<br />
structure, delicately spicy. Substantial, multi-layered and elegant.<br />
A lot of wine. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 Selzen Chardonnay trocken<br />
Spicy aroma, ripe honeydew melon and pear, also lactic<br />
notes. Juicy and soft on the palate, slender structure, mild,<br />
well-integrated acid vein, subtle spiciness, clear in expression.<br />
A well-balanced, versatile Chardonnay that cuts a fine<br />
figure. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2018 Selzen Silvaner trocken<br />
Spicy and floral notes, fully ripe pear, yellow flowers, some<br />
mango lassi. Soft and supple on the palate, mild acidity,<br />
sweet extract, lots of peppery, spicy notes, especially on the<br />
mid-palate. Made for hearty food. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2019 »Kalkmergel« Hahnheim<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Intense and powerful aroma of stone fruit, peach and mango,<br />
yellow flowers and buttercup, spiciness. Powerful and<br />
well-built on the palate with ripe acidity and texture, multi-layered,<br />
spicy, with a chalky mineral accent, clear fruit<br />
expression and good length. 13,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
545
WEINGUT KARLHEINZ KELLER<br />
Landgrafenstrasse 74-76, 67549 Worms<br />
T: +49 (6241) 75562, info@weingutkeller.de<br />
www.weingutkeller.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays<br />
9–18 hrs, Wednesdays 9–13 hrs , Saturdays 9–14 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Markus Keller<br />
Contact: Karlheinz Keller<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 200,000 (60 % white, 40 % red)/20 ha<br />
Weingut Karlheinz Keller, which is<br />
now run by Markus Keller, farms<br />
around twenty hectares of vines<br />
and continues to deliver consistent quality at<br />
astonishingly fair prices. Since Markus Keller’s<br />
wife hails from Alto Adige, he is dedicated to<br />
Lagrein, a powerful and somewhat rustic<br />
grape variety from the southern side of the<br />
Alps. The results are impressive: this barrique-matured<br />
red is spicy, smooth and really<br />
textured – a most successful experiment within<br />
a thoroughly-balanced and convincing<br />
range of wines.<br />
92 2019 Pfeddersheim St. Georgenberg<br />
Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Wonderfully fruity and fresh on the nose with quince and<br />
candied red apple. Then dense on the palate with good substance.<br />
Energetic without dominating the fruit. Polished.<br />
Balanced. Bravo! 13 Vol.-%. cork, €<br />
90 2019 Roter Riesling trocken<br />
Discreet aromas on the nose with red fruits like redcurrant.<br />
The use of wood is noticeable but well-integrated. Good substance<br />
and power of the wine with pleasant viscosity. Harmonious.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2017 »Cuvée Gabriel« trocken ME/SY/CS<br />
Blackberry, elderberry, cherry, cinnamon and clove with a<br />
slightly herbaceous hint. Lots of fine tannin, concentrated<br />
with a smooth backdrop, vivid fruit, seamlessly-integrated,<br />
ripe acidity. Juicy and fruit-driven with a sweet finish, elegant<br />
wine. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2018 Lagrein trocken<br />
Strong notes of new wood and herbaceous aromas of thyme,<br />
menthol and camphor. Supple, almost viscous on the palate,<br />
grainy tannin with good ripeness. Cherry-like fruit on the palate,<br />
strong alcohol, slightly pronounced fruitiness, sturdy<br />
finish. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2019 Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 Weissburgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
89 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
91 2018 Frauenberg Spätburgunder<br />
Barrique trocken<br />
89 2018 Pfeddersheimer Hochberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
89 2017 Pfeddersheim St. Georgenberg<br />
Merlot trocken<br />
91 Pinot Noir Brut<br />
Salmon pink. Yeasty on the nose and aromatic Pinot berries.<br />
On the palate there is good balance between fresh,<br />
racy acidity and it's fine, also dynamic, mousse. A Sekt with<br />
clear aromatics and clear dry finish. Nice aperitif.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, DIAM, €€<br />
546 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT KETH<br />
Rheinhessen | WINERIES<br />
Wormserstrasse 37, 67591 Offstein<br />
T: +49 (6243) 7522, kontakt@weingut-keth.de<br />
www.weingut-keth.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–12 hrs and<br />
13–18 hrs, Saturdays 8–17 hrs and by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Matthias Keth<br />
Contact: Matthias Keth<br />
Hectares: 55 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
It was in 1971 that Weingut Keth started<br />
out in the southern Wonnegau – with 2.5<br />
hectares of vines and just 600 litres of wine.<br />
Now, Matthias Keth is at the helm of this estate<br />
and the vineyards have been extended to a respectable<br />
55 hectares. The top sites are Westhofener<br />
Morstein and Offsteiner Engelsberg<br />
and farming was converted to organics as early<br />
as 2007. The wines impress with their inner serenity<br />
and unaffected character. The Morstein<br />
Riesling shows complexity, the Sankt Laurent<br />
knows how to convince with its spiciness while<br />
the Riesling Beerenauslese from the Morstein<br />
shows provenance. A great performance!<br />
91 2019 Westhofen Morstein Riesling trocken<br />
Concentrated nose of peach and apricot, yellow apple, grapefruit<br />
and a mineral ambience. On the palate there is good extract<br />
and density, taut and athletic, consistent and balanced,<br />
the acidity is well-integrated. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap<br />
89 2019 »Sonnenspiel« Riesling trocken<br />
Juicy and straightforward aromatics of apple, apricot and<br />
grapefruit. On the palate there is a lively freshness. Lean and<br />
taut construction with everything in the right place. The fine<br />
sweetness corresponds well with the agile acidity, supple<br />
with fine spice and minerality. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap<br />
90 2018 St. Laurent trocken<br />
Intense dark and spicy nose, blackcurrant and cherry, some<br />
smoke, eucalyptus and also earthy notes. Vivid acidity on the<br />
palate, medium body, clear fruit and spicy and pepper notes.<br />
The tannins are ripe and juicy, good ageing potential.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork<br />
92 2018 Westhofen Morstein<br />
Riesling Beerenauslese<br />
Flora lavender on the nose with dried apricot and mint. Viscous<br />
at the beginning, then immediately spicy. Comparatively<br />
mild acidity, evoking the impression of mildness through<br />
creaminess rather than sweetness. An original Beerenauslese.<br />
7 Vol.-%. cork<br />
89 2019 »Rebstoff Weiss« trocken CB/MS/PH<br />
88 2019 »Aufspiel Weiss« trocken WB/CH/SB<br />
88 2019 Chardonnay trocken<br />
88 2019 Grauburgunder trocken<br />
89 2018 Syrah trocken<br />
89 2018 Cabernet Franc trocken<br />
88 2017 Offstein Engelsberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Ripe yellow gooseberry, apricot and grapefruit on the nose,<br />
floral notes and fine spice. Juicy, textural and with fine<br />
fruit on the palate. Ripe, well-integrated acidity, finely-balanced,<br />
unobtrusive yet intense, with natural expression<br />
and character. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
547
WEINGUT KNEWITZ<br />
Rheinblick 13, 55437 Appenheim<br />
T: +49 (6725) 2949, info@weingut-knewitz.de<br />
www.weingut-knewitz.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Tobias and Björn Knewitz<br />
Contact: The Knewitz family<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 150,000 (90 % white, 10 % red)/25 ha<br />
Sometimes we wonder how it is all going<br />
to end with Tobias Knewitz: he made his<br />
first wines as a 14-year-old, took over<br />
the family estate at 21 and now at age 30 he<br />
makes wines like few others. This precocious<br />
winemaker is supported by his brother Björn<br />
and his father Gerold who mainly looks after<br />
the vineyards which by now have grown to 25<br />
hectares. We were smitten with the Hundertgulden<br />
Riesling with its fine phenolics and pervasive<br />
minerality. At least one thing is certain:<br />
we are happy to reward this stellar performance<br />
with a fourth star!<br />
95 2019 Appenheim Hundertgulden<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Alluring smoky spice on the nose, alongside lime citrus and<br />
grapefruit. Highly concentrated on the palate with very fine<br />
phenolics, a hint of carbon dioxide, but also a penetrating<br />
tactile minerality. Density without drama. Very good!<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
honeysuckle. On the palate lively acidity balances the fruit<br />
flavours, complemented by lychee and ginger. A precise, persistent<br />
wine in a medium body with a good finish.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 »Holzfass« Chardonnay trocken<br />
92 2019 Nieder-Hilbersheim Steinacker<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Pale lemon yellow in the glass. Fresh herbs, lime and apple<br />
on the nose. Very precise primary fruit on the palate, complemented<br />
by a fine mineral component. Compactly-built,<br />
well-balanced, perfectly-integrated acidity with a long finish.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2019 Gau-Algesheim Goldberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Still closed on the nose offering more minerality than fruit.<br />
Good density on the palate, supple foundation, poised and<br />
plump, but also with refined acid backbone and mineral core.<br />
Tangerine and kumquats on the finish. Freshness and minerality,<br />
good potential. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
91 2019 »Kalkstein« Appenheim<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Lemon yellow. A scent of wet stone, young peach, lime and<br />
91 2019 »Eisenerz« Nieder-Hilbersheim<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Smoky and peppery on the nose with white peach and hints<br />
of limestone. The palate is substantial, straightforward<br />
and built without frills, firm but not aggressive acidity,<br />
juicy, distinctive, in excellent balance. Compact and long<br />
lasting. Stylish and pure. 12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
548 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Rheinhessen | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT KÖSTER-WOLF<br />
Langgasse 62, 55234 Albig<br />
T: +49 (6731) 2538, mail@koester-wolf-weingut.de<br />
www.koester-wolf-weingut.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Claus Wolf<br />
Contact: Bärbel Wolf<br />
Hectares: 35 ha<br />
The Köster-Wolf estate was founded in<br />
1684 and is run by Bärbel and Claus<br />
Wolf now, the eleventh generation of<br />
the family. The couple reports that “striving<br />
for quality is an unwritten law for us and our<br />
yardstick.” They turn the fruit of almost 35<br />
hectares of vines into varietally-typical, expressive<br />
and well-balanced wines and offer<br />
them at very fair prices. The lively Sauvignon<br />
Blanc and the elegant Weissburgunder are<br />
very good examples for this. A very successful<br />
debut for this estate in Albig.<br />
89 2019 Albig Schloss Hammerstein<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Apple and Mirabelle on the nose, spicy and floral with light<br />
notes of lemon grass. Juicy and clear on the palate with<br />
beautiful fruit expression, slender structure, well-integrated<br />
acidity and sweetness, fine texture and spice; good substance,<br />
cleanly-executed, elegant. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
87 2019 »Classic« Rivaner trocken<br />
89 2019 »Scheus Traum« Scheurebe feinherb<br />
Fruity and spicy nose of gooseberry, pink grapefruit and yellow<br />
fruit with hints of guava and a sweet-sour note. The palate<br />
shows a good combination of clear fruit, sweetness and<br />
freshness in a lean texture. Spicy and delicious, finely-tuned.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
88 2019 Grauburgunder trocken<br />
Juicy pear and apple on the clean nose, some floral notes<br />
and spices. Juicy on the palate, with clear varietal typicity,<br />
ripe acidity, fine spiciness and a sweetness of fruit. Powerful<br />
construction; classic and uncomplicated Pinot Gris that<br />
highlights its best qualities. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
88 2019 »Loup Blanc« trocken SB/RR/CH<br />
Blend of Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. Smelling<br />
of green apple, yellow fruit and citrus. Animating freshness,<br />
juicy and well-balanced, youthful fruit and spice on the<br />
finish. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 Albig Schloss Hammerstein<br />
Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Varietal nose of gooseberry, grapefruit, pepper, hints of<br />
grass clippings and fine spiciness. Fresh acidity, clear fruit<br />
and fine sweetness on the palate lead to a slender structure.<br />
Animated with an upbeat style. Good varietal typicity<br />
with a local accent. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
549
WEINGUT KÜHLING-GILLOT<br />
Ölmühlstrasse 25, 55294 Bodenheim<br />
T: +49 (6135) 2333, info@kuehling-gillot.de<br />
www.kuehling-gillot.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–17 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 11–14 hrs<br />
Winemaker: H. O. Spanier, Axel Thieme, Christopher Full<br />
Contact: Carolin Spanier-Gillot and Hans Oliver Spanier<br />
Hectares: 18 ha<br />
What an incredible flight of wines are<br />
Carolin and O.H. Spanier’s Grosse<br />
Gewächse from the Roter Hang<br />
(Red Slope): a crystalline Hipping, a full-bodied<br />
Rothenberg, a phenolically-tart Pettenthal and<br />
an Ölberg that is as salty as creamy. The expression<br />
of site character is convincing, the consistency<br />
impressive. One is almost tempted to claim<br />
that “of course,”- even the village wines show the<br />
same sophistication in their class: the Niersteiner<br />
is playful, the Nackenheimer more solemn. But<br />
the very fact that all of this comes with such ease<br />
and as a matter of course proves their hard work.<br />
Congratulations on achieving the fifth star.<br />
95 2019 Nierstein Ölberg Riesling GG<br />
Complex aromatics of ripe apricot, mint and myrrh incense<br />
on the nose. Palate opens with a juicy fruit and creamy undertones.<br />
A classic style but with innovation and integrity,<br />
densely-woven, taut acidity and saltiness; the generosity of<br />
the site is energised in this wine with its long finish. Great potential.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
starts ripe and soft with a clear, juicy acidity and develops a<br />
crystalline precision and linear expression as it evolves. Firm<br />
structure, delicious, self-contained. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
91 2019 Nierstein Riesling<br />
Aus Ersten Lagen trocken<br />
95 2019 Nierstein Pettenthal Riesling GG<br />
Ripe yellow fruit on the nose with earthy notes and herbal<br />
undertones reflecting true Roter Hang in the summer heat.<br />
Opens with juicy dense yellow fruit, counters with phenolic<br />
astringency; high intensity, dense, yet lean and with drive.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
95 »wurzelecht« Nackenheim<br />
Rothenberg Riesling GG 2019<br />
Rich yellow colour with greenish nuances. On the nose blood<br />
orange and light wood spice. On the palate there are fine phenolics,<br />
integral acidity, discreet minerality, concentrated<br />
fruit and lots of texture. A round, harmonious and homogeneous<br />
Burgundian-style wine with discreet minerality.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
94 2019 Nierstein Hipping Riesling GG<br />
Stone fruit is accompanied by herbs, apricot, mango on the<br />
nose, alongside red apple and some liquorice. The palate<br />
92 2019 Nackenheim Riesling<br />
Aus Ersten Lagen trocken<br />
Sweet Reine Claude Doree plum on the nose with apple,<br />
balsamic spice and slightly smoky undertones. The palate<br />
is well-balanced between the crunchy acidity and textural<br />
fully ripe fruit. Good density, rich in substance, has potential.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
550 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT LAMBERTH<br />
Rheinhessen | WINERIES<br />
Kirchstrasse 20, 55278 Ludwigshöhe<br />
T: +49 (6249) 8611, info@weingut-lamberth.de<br />
www.weingut-lamberth.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–12 hrs and<br />
14–18 hrs and Saturdays by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Carsten Lamberth<br />
Contact: Carsten Lamberth<br />
Hectares: 19 ha<br />
Apart from presenting his wines from<br />
the 2019 vintage, Carsten Lamberth<br />
also presented more mature wines<br />
from 2018, 2016 and 2015. We already know<br />
that he has a great touch for wood-matured<br />
red wines. His Spätburgunder “Très Fins”<br />
from the 2016 vintage comes across as Burgundian<br />
with its fine acidity and smooth tannins.<br />
The white wines, too, are on great form,<br />
especially the complex Grauburgunder Himmelthal<br />
and the linear, super-straight Riesling<br />
“Kalkstein”. Lamberth always has surprises<br />
up his sleeve.<br />
91 2018 Guntersblum Himmelthal<br />
Grauburgunder trocken<br />
Slightly reddish shimmer in the glass. Herbs, bay leaf, smoke<br />
and toasted aromas with layers of quince, green walnut and<br />
pear. Powerfully-built but with a clear outline, sweet extract,<br />
juicy with a phenolic tartness adding to it's complexity and<br />
mineral foundations. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2015 »R« Ludwigshöhe Teufelskopf<br />
Chardonnay trocken<br />
Deep yellow, still shows smoky notes from barrique ageing,<br />
dark aromas of roots, herbs with ripe, exotic honeydrew melon.<br />
Powerful and firmly-built on the palate with sweet extract<br />
and ripe acidity. Spice and some wood tannin, with juice<br />
and texture, good potential. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2008 »Pinot Blanc de Noir« brut<br />
Fine, unobtrusive Pinot fruit on the nose, raspberry, strawberry<br />
and discreet spices from light evolution. Freshness on<br />
the palate with lively acidity and ripe fruit; slender, straightforward<br />
construction, a precise sparkling wine, good aperitif.<br />
12 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2016 »Très Fins« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Spicy nose with juniper berry, fir resin, ripe wild raspberry<br />
and cherry, layers of smoke and a slightly ethereal tone. On<br />
the palate there is a fine and ripe acid structure, dry, soft tannins,<br />
elegant and Burgundian in impression, light with an animating<br />
savouriness. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
89 2018 »Kalkstein« Chardonnay<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 Gewürztraminer trocken<br />
88 2019 Silvaner trocken<br />
88 2019 Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
90 2015 »R« Guntersblum Himmelthal<br />
Merlot trocken<br />
90 2016 »Kalkstein« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
89 2015 Guntersblum Steig-Terrassen<br />
Syrah trocken<br />
90 2018 »Kalkstein« Riesling trocken<br />
The yellow fruit of apricot and peach is joined on the nose<br />
by a chalky mineral tone and fine spice. On the palate there<br />
is traction and drive, but also texture and clear fruit, ripe<br />
acid vein, tightly-built, as if drawn with a ruler. Highly mineral,<br />
exhibiting its own individual character.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
551
WEINGUT LUFF<br />
Hauptstrasse 16, 55459 Aspisheim<br />
T: +49 (6727) 5893, info@weingut-luff.de<br />
www.weingut-luff.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Christian Luff<br />
Contact: Kornelia Kilz-Luff<br />
Hectares: 23 ha<br />
Christian Luff is tattoed all over and likes<br />
to present himself as unconventional.<br />
His labels, too, are most colourful and<br />
the back label reads: “Contains sulphites and<br />
a little revolt.” This winemaker wants to show<br />
that wine is not just for square folk. And indeed,<br />
the content of the bottles has quite something<br />
to offer. The blend “Blickkontakt” combines<br />
spice and elegance, the Grauburgunder<br />
presents itself with good substance. His red<br />
wine “Red Barrel” pleases with its clear fruit<br />
and animating tartness. And it goes on. Or, as<br />
Christian Luff would say: “Viva La Vinificación!”<br />
90 2019 »Blickkontakt« Deutscher Wein tr.<br />
Blend of Grüner Sylvaner and Riesling, smelling of ripe fruit,<br />
pear, apple, apricot and banana. Sweet Riesling fruit takes<br />
over on the palate, controlled by a lively, spicy acidity and<br />
earthy notes from the Sylvaner, a beautiful duet.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
88 2019 »X« Rosé<br />
90 2018 »MMXVIII« Grauburgunder trocken<br />
The nose already shows a lot of substance can be expected<br />
here with some smoke, pear, quince and hints of charcoal.<br />
Powerfully-built on the palate, marked by maturation in barrique,<br />
dry, good extract and texture. Juicy and spicy on the<br />
finish. Lots of Potential. 14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
Ripe apricot and papaya on the nose, spicy and floral notes in<br />
tow, leafy greens and lemongrass. On the palate, the ripe<br />
acidity and fine sweetness combine well, a layer of fine phenolics<br />
highlights the fruit. Charming, with good flow.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
88 2019 Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Spicy and floral aromas on the nose, ripe Mirabelle plum and<br />
grapefruit. On the palate, the agile acidity provides momentum<br />
and balances the noticeable residual sweetness. Juicy<br />
and fruity, with attractive spice notes, good balance between<br />
freshness and harmony. 11,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2018 »Red Barrel« trocken DF/RE<br />
Blend of Regent and Dornfelder, aromas of black cherry<br />
and elderflower, bay leaf and wood spice. Dry on the palate<br />
with slender berry fruit, fine and animating tartness. Satisfying<br />
honest finish. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
552 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT MANZ<br />
Rheinhessen | WINERIES<br />
Lettengasse 6, 55278 Weinolsheim<br />
T: +49 (6249) 803008, weingut@manz-weinolsheim.de<br />
www.manz-weinolsheim.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–16 hrs and<br />
Saturdays by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Erich and Eric Manz<br />
Contact: Eric Manz<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 250,000 (60 % white, 40 % red)/30 ha<br />
The Riesling from the Niersteiner Pettenthal<br />
in the 2019 vintage, caused<br />
quite a stir at our tasting table: appreciative<br />
murmurs, delight and a commensurate<br />
score. This wine depicts both character and<br />
terroir of the Roter Hang, or Red Slope, exactly<br />
– and it is just one example for the many oenological<br />
possibilities that Eric Manz turns<br />
into a reality. His portfolio of exquisite sites<br />
has by now grown to 30 hectares. He knows<br />
how to set the scene for his Pinots with just the<br />
right amount of woody spice, his rich red “Cuvée<br />
M Réserve” will satisfy even demanding<br />
palates. Compliments!<br />
93 2019 Nierstein Pettenthal Riesling trocken<br />
Ripe fruit nose with warm stone, herbs and ripe yellow fruit,<br />
showing the character of the Roter Hang. On the palate there<br />
is a firm and powerful structure, good density, balanced acidity,<br />
the powerful extract is accompanied by juice and spice,<br />
pronounced minerality. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
89 2019 »Alte Reben« Grauer Burgunder tr.<br />
91 2019 Weinolsheim Kehr Riesling trocken<br />
Compact nose with some smoke, apple and stone fruit, relatively<br />
closed, opens slowly. Powerful and compactly-built<br />
with noticeable sweetness which sits well with the acidity.<br />
Phenolic tartness, good balance, elegance with juiciness and<br />
fine spice. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2019 »Réserve« Chardonnay trocken<br />
Buttery nose, some pumpkin, white flowers and a smoky ambience.<br />
Voluminous on the palate with a powerful structure,<br />
juicy and with fine sweetness, texture and spice, great<br />
smooth balance. Good ageing potential. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2015 »Cuvée M Réserve« trocken<br />
Blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Mitos. Powerful,<br />
spicy nose of dark cherries, mulberry, elderberry and blackcurrant,<br />
roasted and smoky aromas and hints of pepper. Powerfully-built<br />
with strength, volume and vivid acidity. Rich,<br />
with texture, spice and a round full finish.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2019 »***100« Oppenheim Herrenberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Juicy stone fruit on the nose of peach, apricot and mineral<br />
notes. On the palate a juicy and fine sweetness, mineral<br />
notes echo in a powerful structure with good substance<br />
and balance, creamy, consistent and with good length.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
553
BURGUNDERHOF MERKEL<br />
Rheinstrasse 8, 67598 Gundersheim<br />
T: +49 (176) 70805824, merkel-weine@web.de<br />
www.merkel-weine.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Carmen Merkel<br />
Contact: Carmen Merkel<br />
Hectares: 5 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
Burgunderhof Merkel in the village of<br />
Gundersheim is now run by the fourth<br />
generation of the Merkel family. Since<br />
2016, Carmen Merkel has been at the helm<br />
and, together with her father Dietmar, wants<br />
“to combine tradition and modernism”. Their<br />
five hectares of up to 100-year-old vines have<br />
been farmed organically since 2004. Right<br />
next door to the winery they planted a round,<br />
snail-shaped vineyard where vines sprout<br />
beautifully towards the sun. We look forward<br />
to seeing what accents the new generation will<br />
set.<br />
87 2019 »Alte Reben« Gundersheim<br />
Königstuhl Riesling trocken<br />
Riesling from 55-year-old vines with aromas of citrus fruits<br />
and yellow paprika, also some caramel and floral notes. On<br />
the palate there is striking and invigorating acidity, more citrus<br />
fruits and also red apple. Not a heavyweight.<br />
12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
again, powerfully-built, mouthfilling with vivid acidity, juicy<br />
and generous, strong tannin, slight astringency.<br />
14 Vol.-%. DIAM, €<br />
87 2019 Gewürztraminer<br />
88 2019 »Alte Reben« Gundersheim<br />
Königstuhl Schwarzriesling trocken<br />
Dark cherry on the nose, spicy and smoky notes, some cherry<br />
yoghurt, a hint of wild raspberry and also mint. On the palate<br />
juicy, sweetly fruity, also notes of sour cherry, firm tannin,<br />
slightly astringent with medium complexity. Expresses grape<br />
variety and terroir. 14 Vol.-%. DIAM, €€<br />
88 2019 »Alte Reben« Gundersheim<br />
Höllenbrand Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Cherry, raspberry, wood spice, toasted aromas, dark notes,<br />
forest floor, berry tones, floral nuances, an ethereal hint. On<br />
the palate liquorice spice, soft fruit, sour cherry juice, big and<br />
powerful. The alcohol is well-integrated, long.<br />
14 Vol.-%. DIAM, €€<br />
88 2019 »Glut« Gundersheim Höllenbrand<br />
trocken ME/BP/DF/CI/RE<br />
Purple in colour, spice, blackberries, some whey and mint.<br />
Dark, sweet fruit on the palate, blackberry and black cherry<br />
89 2019 Gundersheim Sauvignon Blanc tr.<br />
Aromatic nose, typical for the variety and attractively exotic.<br />
Green pepper, papaya, pomegranate and apple with<br />
spicy aromas. Slenderly-built on the palate, balanced and<br />
fresh without being too overblown with more fruity papaya<br />
notes. Harmonious finish, good varietal expression.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
554 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT MICHEL<br />
Rheinhessen | WINERIES<br />
Dittelsheimer Weg 31, 55234 Hochborn<br />
T: +49 (6735) 283, sebastian@weingut-michel.de<br />
www.weingut-michel.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Sebastian Michel<br />
Contact: Sebastian Michel<br />
Hectares: 20 ha<br />
Sebastian Michel knows exactly how to<br />
exploit the potential of Westhofen’s top<br />
Morstein site and its limestone soils. He<br />
vinifies his Rieslings in barrel which, along<br />
with the Morstein character, lends them an individual<br />
profile: the wine from the 2019 vintage<br />
shows a tightly-woven structure, fine phenolics<br />
and mineral poise. His Riesling “MR”<br />
from the 2017 vintage comes across as ambitious<br />
and still youthful. Michel also knows<br />
how to handle Silvaner, while his red blend<br />
“Ithaka” shows fruit, style and expression.<br />
These are wines that will age well and provide<br />
joy for years to come.<br />
92 2019 Westhofen Morstein Riesling trocken<br />
Fine fragrance of apricot on the nose, some leafy green, floral,<br />
fine caraway and discreet wood spice. Well-balanced and<br />
tightly-woven on the palate, good extract, ripe acidity, fine<br />
phenolics, firmly-built in its structure, elegant and mineral,<br />
good potential. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
89 2018 »Kalkstein« Chardonnay trocken<br />
91 2018 Westhofen Morstein Silvaner trocken<br />
Pear and apple, flanked by spicy and smoky notes. Juicy on<br />
the palate with fine spice, mild acidity, powerful and firm in<br />
structure. The fine sweetness blends in well, underpinned by<br />
mineral earthiness. Sylvaner with good ageing potential.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2017 »MR« Riesling trocken<br />
Multi-layered nose with notes of stone fruit, rosehip, spices<br />
and wood spice. Structured Riesling, influenced by the<br />
wood, firm in its substance, supple in its acidity. Mineral,<br />
ambitiously-vinified and still youthful. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
89 2016 »Prestige Pinot« brut<br />
Beautiful Pinot nose, powerful and spicy, wild raspberry,<br />
cherry and smoky notes with end notes of woodruff. Slender<br />
and spicy on the palate, texture with chalky minerality, medium<br />
length and complexity, discreet sweetness, clear expression.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2018 »Ithaka« trocken CS/CF/ME<br />
Blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot.<br />
Aromas of cassis, blackberry, elderberry, dark chocolate, forest<br />
floor and fine herbal spice. Harmonious composition and<br />
balance, fine acidity, vivid tannins and expressive fruit match<br />
the substance. 14 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
555
WEINGUT MÜLLER – DR. BECKER<br />
Vordergasse 14–18, 67592 Flörsheim-Dalsheim<br />
T: +49 (6243) 5524, info@mueller-dr-becker.de<br />
www.mueller-dr-becker.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Jochen Becker<br />
Contact: Jochen Becker<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 120,000 (75 % white, 25 % red)/15 ha<br />
As we know, Flörsheim-Dalsheim, is a<br />
viticultural hotspot in Rheinhessen.<br />
Jochen Becker is part of what makes<br />
this commune so pulsating – his current range<br />
of wines calls for several exclamation points.<br />
His Riesling from the Brummelochsenboden<br />
site is wonderfully juicy and tight, a wine that<br />
will give pleasure for years – even if each and<br />
every bottle will be emptied quickly. His trio of<br />
red wines is superb: but our hearts were captured<br />
by the Sankt Laurent which, in this estate’s<br />
iteration of the 2018 vintage, unites texture<br />
and fruit into a wonderful harmony.<br />
92 2019 »Vom Brummelochsenboden«<br />
Dalsheim Sauloch Riesling trocken<br />
Some wood and fresh herbal tones of lemon balm, citrus,<br />
notes of yeast. Full-bodied and compact on the palate,<br />
silky-textured, juicy acidity, good weight but no alcoholic excess.<br />
A very rich wine with real potential and striking minerality.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €<br />
91 2018 »Die Wildsau« Dalsheim Sauloch<br />
Frühburgunder trocken<br />
Smoky notes, roasted coffee, cranberry, nougat and Amarena<br />
cherry. The vintage was certainly very ripe. Slightly viscous<br />
on the opening, a hint of sweetness, fine-grained tannin<br />
in medium-high quantity, ripe acidity, good density in all<br />
components. Attractive berry-like finish. 14,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 »Arras« Rosé trocken<br />
90 2019 »MDCXXV« Dalsheim Bürgel<br />
Chardonnay trocken<br />
Strong use of wood, coconut, restrained varietal aromas, sesame<br />
and polenta. Supple palate, discreet texture, fine,<br />
long-lasting acidity, a hint of wood tannin, juicy, medium-weight<br />
finish. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2017 »MDCXXV« Dalsheim Bürgel<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Smoky new wood, sweet cherry, rosehip. A very slight malty<br />
undertone. Black tea and herbs. On the palate there is mellow,<br />
fine-grained (but dense) tannin, with a creamy base and<br />
a vein of acidity well-suited to the body. Intense, clear fruit on<br />
the finish. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2018 »MDCXXV« Dalsheim Bürgel<br />
St. Laurent<br />
Still closed on the nose, cranberry, blackberry and black<br />
pepper, a “cool” herbal note overall. On the palate silky,<br />
very finely-textured, mild acidity, shows juiciness and very<br />
intense fruit leading to the long finish. 14 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
556 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Rheinhessen | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT MÜNZENBERGER<br />
Lindenplatz 9, 55270 Zornheim<br />
T: +49 (6136) 44573, info@weingut-muenzenberger.de<br />
www.weingut-muenzenberger.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Andreas Münzenberger<br />
Contact: Andreas Münzenberger<br />
Hectares: 19 ha<br />
There is much optimism at Weingut<br />
Münzenberger. Two generations combine<br />
their experience in modern cellar<br />
techniques and their joy of innovation. Andreas<br />
Münzenberger, an engineer of oenology,<br />
runs this 19-hectare estate. His son, crowned<br />
young winemaker of the year 2018 by the local<br />
chamber of agriculture, reads ‘International<br />
Wine Business’ at Geisenheim and produces<br />
his own line of wines. His wines, like “Decoded<br />
Poetry” show balance and ambition. His<br />
Muskateller “La Fleur” and the lively Riesling<br />
“Ringelpiez” also turned out well. That’s the<br />
way to go.<br />
89 2019 »Decoded Poetry« Zornheim Riesling tr.<br />
Light peach on the nose, spicy notes and apple. Well-balanced<br />
on the palate with a lemony, lively acidity and a hint of<br />
fruit sweetness in the peach and nectarine fruit. Bright,<br />
steely, juicy, round and lively, with good drinkability.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 »La Fleur« Gelber Muskateller<br />
feinherb<br />
Focused on the nose, juicy peach, rose petals and flower<br />
meadow with a touch of green banana. Juicy, aromatic and<br />
fruity-sweet on the palate, balanced proportions, nice flow,<br />
palatable with a delicious citric acid structure. Good varietal<br />
expression. 11,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
88 2019 »Shiny Day« Scheurebe trocken<br />
Expressive nose with layers of sweet fruit, ripe passion fruit,<br />
mango, tangerine and green melon. A slenderly-built palate,<br />
juicy and mouth-watering with lots of acid freshness, clear<br />
fruit mango expression, lively wine. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2019 »Feuerstein« Zornheim<br />
Riesling Spätlese<br />
On the nose light peach, apple, herbaceous savouriness. On the<br />
palate finely-concentrated fruit sweetness, stone fruit, peach<br />
and also fresh Golden Delicious apple. Juicy acidity freshness,<br />
an elegant and well-balanced Spätlese. 9,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
88 2019 »Feuerstein« Hahnheim Riesling tr.<br />
88 2018 »Alte Reben« Zornheim<br />
Guldenmorgen Weissburgunder trocken<br />
88 2018 »Alte Reben« Selzen Osterberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
87 2018 »Chronos« Selzen Gottesgarten<br />
Chardonnay trocken<br />
87 2019 »Horizon Effect«<br />
Weisser Burgunder & Chardonnay trocken<br />
88 2016 »Alte Reben« Zornheim Vogelsang<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
87 2019 »Ursa Major« Zornheim<br />
Gewürztraminer<br />
89 2019 »Ringelpiez« Riesling<br />
Kabinett feinherb<br />
Bright fruit with fresh mint leaf and vine peach. Lively resilient<br />
palate with some restrained sweetness. Fresh stone<br />
fruit, citrus fruit, clearly-focused with delicious mineral<br />
spiciness and fine acidity. 11,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
557
WEINGUT NEEF-EMMICH<br />
Alzeyer Strasse 15, 67593 Bermersheim<br />
T: +49 (6244) 905254, info@neef-emmich.de<br />
www.neef-emmich.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Dirk Emmich<br />
Contact: Dirk Emmich<br />
Hectares: 22 ha<br />
Winamaking couple Antje and Dirk<br />
Emmich farms 22 hectares of<br />
vines in Bermersheim in the Wonnegau.<br />
Son Philipp has now also completed his<br />
winemaker training and is beginning to make<br />
his mark on the estate. The entry level wines<br />
already show fruit expression and good balance.<br />
The two single-site Rieslings from the<br />
Gundersheimer Höllenbrand and the Albiger<br />
Hundskopf combine complexity and elegance<br />
in poised, natural and classic fashion. We can<br />
highly recommend these wines – which also<br />
always spur our gastronomic imagination!<br />
91 2018 Gundersheim Höllenbrand Riesling tr.<br />
Ripe, intense aroma of ripe peach, a hint of petrol and lots of<br />
spice. On the palate lean and tightly-built, with good density<br />
and extract, the sweetness is well-integrated, the acidity noticeable<br />
and straightforward. Finishes with spice and minerality,<br />
good ageing potential. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2018 Albig St. Laurent trocken<br />
91 2018 Albig Hundskopf Riesling trocken<br />
Ripe aromas on the nose of peach, apple, smoke, roasted<br />
chestnut, floral notes and a hint of petrol. Taut and athletically-built<br />
on the palate, with a bright and ripe acidity, salty<br />
grip and also phenolic notes, lemon, mineral flair. Potential.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 Bermersheim Silvaner trocken<br />
Clean and varietal nose of apple, pear and meadow herbs,<br />
also nutty aromas. Lots of juice and also texture on the palate,<br />
the fine sweetness is as well-integrated as the ripe<br />
acidity. Very clear expression, earthy in character.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 Westhofen Weissburgunder trocken<br />
White flowers and white peach on the nose, also peach stone,<br />
passion fruit and tangerine zest. Fruity and juicy on the palate,<br />
full-bodied and with fine sweetness, yet slender and<br />
compactly-built. Elegant with refined acidity and nice spiciness,<br />
clear profile. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 Dalsheim Riesling trocken<br />
Fine and unpretentious Riesling nose with peach and apricot,<br />
spice and floral nuances. Creamy and juicy on the palate,<br />
very nice fruit expression, the bright acidity is coupled<br />
with fine sweetness. Charming and, at the same time fresh<br />
and vivid, very finely-crafted. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
558 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT J. NEUS<br />
Rheinhessen | WINERIES<br />
Banhofstrasse 96, 55218 Ingelheim am Rhein<br />
T: +49 (6132) 73003, info@weingut-neus.de<br />
www.weingut-neus.de<br />
Cellar Door: Tuesdays through Fridays 9-18 hrs and<br />
by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Toni Frank<br />
Contact: Lewis Schmitt<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 50,000 (20 % white, 80 % red)/13 ha<br />
It is astonishing how Weingut J. Neus, under<br />
the ownership of the Schmitz family<br />
and the management of Lewis Schmitt, together<br />
with cellar master Toni Frank, manages<br />
to deliver consistent quality year on year – contributing<br />
to the renaissance of Ingelheim as Pinot-town.<br />
The enormous development continues:<br />
reconstruction of the press house will<br />
make use of gravity, new barrels are made from<br />
local oak and a Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard<br />
was field-grafted over to Spätburgunder. The<br />
Spätburgunders from the 2018 vintage promise<br />
substance, complexity and finely-polished<br />
fruit. This is Ingelheim on great form!<br />
93 2018 Ingelheim Horn Spätburgunder GG<br />
Still closed on the nose, yeast and wood spice, currants,<br />
dense and with some promise. Vivid acidity on the palate<br />
with complex layers of spice, compactly-built yet the tannins<br />
are accessible. Complex and with great potential.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
white pepper. Finely-balanced by lively acidity and a medium<br />
body with a long finish. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 Chardonnay trocken<br />
93 2018 Ingelheim Pares Spätburgunder GG<br />
The nose is still marked by wood spice and yeast with layers<br />
of herbs, spices, freshly crushed juniper berry and hints of<br />
tar. On the palate there is beautiful Triassic limestone minerality<br />
with creamy undertones, the acidity is ripe and<br />
poised, the tannins are grippy. A youthful and talented wine.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2018 »Alte Reben« Ingelheim<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Fine alluring nose with some smoke, elderflower, cherry and<br />
ripe blackberry. On the palate layers of herbs and fine minerality.<br />
All balanced by perfectly-integrated acidity on a medium<br />
body with a very long finish. An elegant wine.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2018 »Muschelkalk«<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Deep aromas of blackberry, cherry, ripe cranberry and clove.<br />
On the palate flavours of mushroom as well as a light note of<br />
90 2019 Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Yeasty on the nose with hints of flinty-minerality and herbal<br />
aromas. A soft and poised palate, lots of juiciness, plump<br />
structure, combines texture with a linear composition, finishes<br />
round and harmonious, without imposed sweetness,<br />
fine elegant finish. 12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
559
WEINGUT PAUSER<br />
Im Baumfeld 40, 55237 Flonheim<br />
T: +49 (6734) 8764, info@weingut-pauser.de<br />
www.weingut-pauser.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Saturdays 9–12 and<br />
13–18 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Friedrich Pauser and Eva Pauser-Brand<br />
Contact: The Pauser family<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 200,000 (50 % white, 50 % red)/33 ha<br />
Good things don’t always have to be<br />
complicated: Weingut Pauser guarantees<br />
well-balanced and accessible<br />
wines at very fair prices. Eva Pauser-Brand,<br />
who has also worked in California, is the<br />
woman behind this style which combines clear<br />
fruit and varietal typicity. Together with her<br />
parents Cornelia and Friedrich Pauser she<br />
farms 33 hectares of vines, predominantly<br />
around Flonheim. Just like last year, her Cabernet<br />
Sauvignon convinces with its fine fruit<br />
and ripe tannins. Her Riesling shows tension<br />
and balance, her Sauvignon Blanc grip and<br />
spice. Well done!<br />
89 2019 Flonheim Klostergarten<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Stone fruit like apricot and Mirabelle, some gooseberry,<br />
white currant and floral notes. Full-bodied on the palate with<br />
ripe acidity and sweet extract and spice, lovely balance, but<br />
also with tension. Notes of citrus fruit on the finish.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2015 Flonheim Binger-Berg<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon trocken<br />
Cassis, blackberry and some pepper in the fruity nose, beetroot<br />
and wood spice. On the palate there is power and substance,<br />
but also suppleness and softness, the tannins and fruit<br />
are ripe, smooth use of wood. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
88 2019 »Chillig« Rosé trocken<br />
89 2019 Flonheim Weissburgunder trocken<br />
White and yellow flowers on the nose, yellow apple and<br />
grapefruit. Juicy on the palate with citrus notes, powerful<br />
structure and agile, enterprising acidity, substantial, yet also<br />
elegant and nuanced. Mineral notes in the background, most<br />
enjoyable. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 Flonheim Geisterberg<br />
Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
Aromas of pear and nuts, herbs and flower meadow and ripe<br />
stone fruit. Shows substance and power on the palate, juice,<br />
texture and spice and pear again. Generous, with finesse and<br />
finishes with fresh ripe citrus fruit. Very drinkable and appealing<br />
Pinot Gris. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 Flonheim Geisterberg<br />
Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Green gooseberry aromatics alongside grapefruit, pepper<br />
and freshly mown lawn. Powerful and tightly-built on the<br />
palate, the acid structure is stable and lively, fine spiciness<br />
and slight savouriness, good grip, shows harmonious balance<br />
and elegance. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
560 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Rheinhessen | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT REIS & LUFF<br />
Am Sonnenberg 16, 55459 Aspisheim<br />
T: +49 (6727) 8881, weine@reis-luff.de<br />
www.reis-luff.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Shanna Reis<br />
Contact: Shanna Reis<br />
Hectares: 20 ha<br />
Right now, it is the fourth generation of<br />
this family that has dedicated itself to<br />
viticulture at Weingut Reis & Luff in<br />
the village of Aspisheim in the rolling hills of<br />
Rheinhessen. “Our wines are an expression of<br />
joy. Wine is not complicated. Whatever tastes<br />
good is allowed,” reports Shanna Reis who<br />
took the estate over in 2017 after graduating<br />
from Geisenheim. She is responsible for winemaking<br />
and is supported by her parents and<br />
grandparents. Our favourite is her bone-dry<br />
and mineral Riesling “47 m ü NHN”, named<br />
after the lowest water level measured on the river<br />
Rhine in summer 2018. More of that please!<br />
87 2019 Grüner Sylvaner trocken<br />
Green pear on the nose, apple, pear and yellow fruit. Juicy,<br />
spicy and smooth on the palate with a mild acid structure,<br />
uncomplicated and enjoyable, nicely-flavoured with a clear<br />
fruit profile. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
87 2019 Riesling Classic Riesling<br />
Fruity scent of Mirabelle and apricot, floral and spicy notes.<br />
Slenderly-built on the palate there is successful sweetness-acidity<br />
interplay, juicy, with clear fruit expression, but<br />
also with spicy accents. Lovely aperitif. 12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
Powerful and spicy nose with blackcurrant, black cherry,<br />
blackberry, tobacco and herbs. On the palate there is beautiful<br />
spiciness, ripe and clearly-highlighted fruit, also with the<br />
necessary freshness, fine tartness ensures liveliness, distinctive<br />
tannins. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2018 Riesling<br />
Medium, clear yellow. On the nose beeswax, citrus, dried<br />
fruits, sultanas, some forest floor. On the palate restrained<br />
acidity, concise sweetness, ripe citrus fruit, pear juice, powerful,<br />
medium structure, good length. Has a lot of traction.<br />
9,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
86 2018 Dornfelder<br />
90 2018 47 m ü NHN Riesling Landwein<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Ripe passion fruit, apricot, beeswax, some anise, citrus<br />
fruit, papaya, and hints of petrol. Powerful, bold and dry on<br />
the palate, shows the warm year with substance and texture.<br />
The lively acidity provides balance, pronounced minerality.<br />
14 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
561
WEINGUT RIFFEL<br />
Mühlweg 14a, 55411 Bingen-Büdesheim<br />
T: +49 (6721) 994690, service@weingut-riffel.de<br />
www.weingut-riffel.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 10–12 and<br />
14–18 hrs, Saturdays 10–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Erik Riffel<br />
Contact: Erik and Carolin Riffel<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 120,000 (88 % white, 12 % red)/18 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
You could easily say that the rediscovery<br />
of the Binger Scharlachberg is down to<br />
Carolin and Erik Riffel. Their wines<br />
have as little to do with “Scharlachberg Meisterbrand”<br />
(a mass-market brandy) as a wine<br />
from the Wormser Liebfrauenstift with a cheap<br />
Liebfraumilch. It’s quite spectacular what<br />
grandiose wines this organically-certified estate<br />
delivers – from their elegant Riesling Brut<br />
Nature via their sophisticated single-site-Rieslings<br />
all the way to their finely-phenolic “Orange-Naked”<br />
Landwein and their nobly sweet<br />
delicacies: a meltingly good Auslese from the<br />
Scharlachberg and a dense Beerenauslese.<br />
93 2019 Bingen Scharlachberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Clear, medium yellow. On the nose matchstick, smoke, mineral<br />
spice, ripe grapefruit, mint. On the palate bright acidity,<br />
layers of ripe citrus fruit, some pineapple and light peach. Impressive<br />
structure, lightly phenolic, understated power and<br />
impressive length, potential. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2019 Bingen Osterberg Riesling trocken<br />
Clear, medium yellow. On the nose a lot of smoke, matchstick<br />
then layers of citrus fruit, and mint. On the palate firm, ripe<br />
acidity, citrus fruit, spice, some green apple, interwoven with<br />
minerality. Excellent structure, elegant and powerful, long.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 NV »Edition Winemob« Bingen<br />
Scharlachberg Riesling brut nature<br />
Intense aroma of ripe peach, yeast spice and shattered rock<br />
and floral notes. On the palate lean, taut and dense. Bright<br />
acidity, intense, juicy and elegant. Clearly conveys terroir. Sophisticated<br />
character. 12 Vol.-%. DIAM, €€€<br />
93 2019 »105°« Bingen Scharlachberg<br />
Riesling Auslese<br />
Deep, clear yellow. On the nose ripe, exotic fruits with layers<br />
of dried apricot and spice, elderflower honey. Rich on the palate,<br />
grippy acidity, honey spice, peach and mango. Great<br />
structure, layers of phenolics and texture, good potential.<br />
8 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
93 2019 Bingen Kirchberg Riesling trocken<br />
91 2018 »Réserve« Chardonnay trocken<br />
91 2019 »Quarzit« Bingen Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 »Pet Nat« trocken WB/SÄ<br />
90 2019 Bingen Scharlachberg<br />
Riesling Kabinett<br />
92 2017 »Réserve« Bingen Bubenstück<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
93 2019 Bingen Scharlachberg<br />
Riesling Beerenauslese<br />
91 2019 »Orange - Naked« Landwein tr. TR/GS<br />
On the nose grated apple, pear, some rose, quince and<br />
some light almond. On the palate supple acidity, fine phenolics,<br />
rose water, apple, quince. A balanced wine with medium<br />
structure and good length, very appealing.<br />
13 Vol.-%, DIAM, €€<br />
562 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT SCHÄTZEL<br />
Rheinhessen | WINERIES<br />
Oberdorfstrasse 34, 55283 Nierstein<br />
T: +49 (6133) 5512, weingut@schaetzel.de<br />
www.schaetzel.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Madeline Stössel<br />
Contact: Kai Schätzel<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 75,000 (100 % white)/15 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
Kai Schätzel started as a young rebel and<br />
now, at a more mature age, still carries<br />
that fire of innovative power. His<br />
wines, like “Fuchs” from the Niersteiner Hipping<br />
site in 2018 say as much. Since it is classified<br />
as a Landwein, it is not allowed to carry a<br />
site name on the label – yet what is in the glass<br />
is amongst the finest and most elaborate<br />
skin-fermented white wines Germany has ever<br />
seen. Compelling but not verging into extremes,<br />
it leaves space for nuance despite all its<br />
power. We cannot wait to see what will happen<br />
next.<br />
96 2018 »Fuchs« Nierstein Hipping<br />
Riesling Landwein trocken<br />
Highly complex on the nose driven by freshly-picked fruit,<br />
cooked apple compote, kumquat, floral, lavender and a "wild"<br />
note indicating spontaneous fermentation on the palate.<br />
11,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
95 2019 Nierstein Pettenthal Riesling GG<br />
Uninhibited nose with vegetal hints, dark aromas with hops<br />
and malt. On the palate, Pettenthal is slender and taut, uncompromising<br />
and tightly compact, the fresh acidity accompanies<br />
yellow fruit, it never becomes too broad or fat.<br />
11,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
94 2019 Nierstein Hipping Riesling GG<br />
As usual with Kai Schätzel, the successfully-mastered spontaneous<br />
fermentation shows first: herbal, malty, behind it<br />
also apple and some yellow fruit. The palate is salty with agile<br />
acidity, lean and tightly-built, juicy and provocative, lots of<br />
potential. 11,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
94 2019 Nierstein Ölberg Riesling GG<br />
Rosehip and herbs on the nose, wood spice and smoke, nutty<br />
aromas, then apricot. Juicy yellow fruit on the palate,<br />
taut texture, perfectly balanced density and phenolic<br />
notes, salty and uncompromising, yet elegant.<br />
11,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2019 Nierstein Pettenthal Riesling<br />
Kabinett Grosse Lage<br />
91 2019 Nierstein Riesling Kabinett<br />
Aus Ersten Lagen<br />
91 2019 Nierstein Riesling<br />
Aus Ersten Lagen trocken<br />
90 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 «naturweiss« Landwein trocken<br />
RR/GS/WB/MT<br />
90 2019 Riesling Kabinett<br />
92 2019 Nierstein Silvaner<br />
Aus Ersten Lagen trocken<br />
Pale lemon yellow. Very fine nose with primary scents of<br />
mango and lime, complemented by a flint note. On the palate<br />
intense flavours of lime zest, peach and a light salty<br />
texture. Medium body, intense acidity and exciting finish.<br />
11 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
563
WEINGUT SCHERNER-KLEINHANSS<br />
Alzeyer Strasse 10, 67592 Flörsheim-Dalsheim<br />
T: +49 (6243) 435, info@scherner-kleinhanss.de<br />
www.scherner-kleinhanss.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Klaus Scherner<br />
Contact: Klaus Scherner<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 70,000 (65 % white, 35 % red)/12 ha<br />
Klaus Scherner, despite his reticent and<br />
shy nature, has a very loyal fan base<br />
that appreciates his approach. His<br />
wines always have clear varietal fruit expression,<br />
are made without technical frills in the<br />
cellar and are priced in a way that is fair and<br />
friendly. Whether or not the Riesling from the<br />
Bürgel site could have done with a little less residual<br />
sweetness is arguable – but Scherner<br />
will not make his wines jump through hoops<br />
in order to make them ferment every last trace<br />
of sugar. With a little more bottle age, this<br />
sweetness will be quite charming in the end.<br />
Hence: way to go!<br />
91 2019 Dalsheim Bürgel Riesling trocken<br />
Citrus-fresh on the nose and a little limestone-spicy, On the<br />
palate there is a juicy acidic nerve and a rather generous<br />
sweetness that relegates the mineral components to second<br />
place. The fruit is very fresh and precise, the structure fine<br />
and elegant. 13 Vol.-%. cork<br />
90 2018 Nieder-Flörsheim Steig<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 Dalsheim Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 Dalsheim Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Slightly nutty on the nose, dried flowers and flax. On the palate<br />
there is beautiful substance, fine-boned with discreet<br />
carbon dioxide freshness, not overly fat, not too slender, an<br />
unobtrusive, unaffected food wine with discreetly-salty<br />
notes on the finish. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap<br />
90 2019 Nieder-Flörsheim<br />
Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
A floral, herbal fragrance with green gooseberry. Fresh and<br />
tangy on the palate, good density, juicy tension, nice mineral<br />
hue, a very pleasant refreshing drink, and by no means only in<br />
summer. 12 Vol.-%. screwcap<br />
91 2018 »Cuvée J« trocken CS/PN/CI<br />
Clear new wood, elderberry jam and blackcurrant, redcurrant<br />
leaves, pepper and menthol. Full and rich on the palate,<br />
with grainy, ripe tannin in sufficient quantity. With ripe acidity<br />
and fresh, juicy fruit on the finish. Good potential.<br />
14 Vol.-%. cork<br />
89 2016 »Pinot Blanc de Noirs« brut<br />
Notes of raspberry and wild strawberry on the nose, some<br />
citrus fruit, floral notes and fine spiciness. Creamy and<br />
juicy on the palate with ripe acidity and fine mousse, slender<br />
construction, fine sweet fruit on the palate. Neat expression.<br />
12 Vol.-%, cork<br />
564 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Rheinhessen | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT<br />
BIANCA UND DANIEL SCHMITT<br />
Weedenplatz 1, 67592 Flörsheim-Dalsheim<br />
T: +49 (173) 3174117, info@biankaunddaniel.de<br />
www.biancaunddaniel.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Bianka and Daniel Schmitt<br />
Contact: Bianka and Daniel Schmitt<br />
Hectares: 17 ha<br />
Bianka and Daniel Schmitt, both oenology<br />
graduates, met in 2012 and developed<br />
their passion for natural wines together.<br />
They work with skin contact and skin<br />
fermentation, their wines are unfiltered and<br />
are bottled with no or very little sulphur dioxide.<br />
The estate with its 17 hectares of vines has<br />
been Demeter-certified since 2012. “Our aim,”<br />
they report, “is to make great wines, as unadulterated<br />
as possible, in a real balance between<br />
nature and man.” They clearly succeed:<br />
it is rare to drink wines with such a natural<br />
touch.<br />
92 2019 »Feminín« Chardonnay Landwein tr.<br />
Aromas of apple, verbena, pear and spices like allspice. The<br />
opening is relatively broad and juicy on the palate, lots of volume<br />
with low alcohol, peppery spice, mineral tautness, phenolic.<br />
The grape variety is recognisable but with an individual<br />
interpretation. 12 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2019 »Zöld« Silvaner Landwein trocken<br />
Sage, thyme, apple skin and pear, also some yellow fruit and<br />
honey; juicy on the palate with ripe, well-integrated acid<br />
structure. Slenderly-built, dry, yet soft and juicy, citric notes<br />
and fine spice with a phenolic layer and lively tartness.<br />
11,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2019 »M« Riesling Landwein trocken<br />
Golden yellow colour, sage, wormwood, apple peel and caraway,<br />
some hops and slight oxidative note. Has a slightly<br />
sweet extract on the palate but is bone dry with slender construction,<br />
somewhat more lush in concentration and fruit<br />
fullness. Phenolic, spicy and delicious. 12 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2019 »Kékfrankos« Blaufränkisch<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
Still somewhat reductive on the nose, cherry, blackberry and<br />
blueberry appear along with some beetroot and wood spice,<br />
clove and cinnamon. Tightly-woven on the palate with tension<br />
and flow, pure and natural, peppery, wild and spicy.<br />
12 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2019 »Erdreich« Landwein trocken GM/SÄ<br />
90 2019 Riesling Landwein trocken<br />
90 2019 Müller-Thurgau Landwein trocken<br />
89 2019 »Frei.Körper.Kultur Weiss« Landwein<br />
trocken HX/SB/SÄ/GS<br />
89 2019 »Frei.Körper.Kultur Fizz« brut nature<br />
89 2019 »Frei.Körper.Kultur Rosé« Landwein<br />
trocken<br />
91 2018 »Piros« Merlot Landwein trocken<br />
90 2018 »Frei.Körper.Kultur Rot«<br />
Landwein trocken BP/ME/SL<br />
Smells of black cherries, elderberry and blackberry, also<br />
some wood and ink. Juicy and with fruity tartness on the<br />
palate, straightforward, blunt and purist. Well-structured<br />
with grippy, spicy, tannins. Sinuous. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
565
WEINGUT SCHMITT<br />
In den Weingärten 7, 67582 Mettenheim<br />
T: +49 (6242) 1717, info@schmitt-weine.com<br />
www.schmitt-weine.com<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Daniel Schmitt<br />
Contact: Daniel Schmitt<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 75,000 (70 % white, 30 % red)/17 ha<br />
After graduating from Geisenheim and<br />
completing stints in New Zealand and<br />
Africa, Daniel Schmitt took over his parental<br />
estate in Mettenheim in 2009 and has<br />
since increased his vineyards from eight to seventeen<br />
hectares. His entry level wines already<br />
show certain standards – like the animating Riesling<br />
and the Silvaner which is both juicy and<br />
spicy. The single-site wines then add personality.<br />
The Spätburgunder from the Bechtheimer Stein<br />
connects power and feeling, the Riesling from<br />
the Bechtheimer Geyersberg is well-proportioned,<br />
full of tension and density. Altogether a very successful<br />
performance – more of that please!<br />
90 2018 Bechtheim Geyersberg Riesling tr.<br />
Powerful nose of peach and apricot and a fine petrol note.<br />
Taut on the palate with tension, extract and density, ripe<br />
acidity and salty underlay. Dry, eschews sweetness and<br />
harmony, well-balanced, shows personality.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
88 2019 Chardonnay & Weissburgunder<br />
trocken<br />
89 2019 Silvaner trocken<br />
Pear on the nose, yellow blossom, apple and some apricot.<br />
Juicy and with well-judged substance on the palate, texture<br />
and spice are in harmony, the acidity is ripe and juicy.<br />
Well-balanced, shows earthy and elegant notes, good substance.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2017 Bechtheim Stein Spätburgunder tr.<br />
Ripe Amarena cherry on the nose, wood spice and violets<br />
with blood orange. Compact and complex on the palate with<br />
lots of spice and a delicious, ripe acidity and tannin. Has substance<br />
and power, but also a Pinot feeling. Vivid and with further<br />
potential. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2019 Huxelrebe Beerenauslese<br />
Rich, clear yellow. Initially rather restrained nose, cooked<br />
quince, dried pear, apricot and some smoke. On the palate<br />
lots of spice, nutmeg, lime zest and grapefruit. Powerful<br />
sweetness, restrained acidity, lots of power and length, finishes<br />
with spice. 11,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
A subtle yellow in the glass, ripe apricot, mango and vine<br />
peach on the nose. Finely-balanced Riesling with vivid acidity,<br />
beautiful fruit and the right amount of sweetness. Slender<br />
and straightforward structure, pleasant flow, fine spiciness.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
566 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT STAUFFER<br />
Rheinhessen | WINERIES<br />
Borngasse 24-26, 55234 Flomborn<br />
T: +49 (6735) 1521, info@weingutstauffer.de<br />
www.weingutstauffer.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–18 hrs and<br />
by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Alexander Stauffer<br />
Contact: Doris and Karl-Michael Stauffer<br />
Hectares: 17 ha<br />
The Stauffer family farms seventeen hectares<br />
of vines in limestone-rich sites<br />
around Flomborn and Eppelsheim –<br />
with some parcels of up to 80-year-old vines.<br />
“In August 2018 we started the conversion to<br />
organic viticulture,” cellar master Alexander<br />
Stauffer reports. He presented an ambitious<br />
and well-priced range of wines. His Riesling<br />
“Kalkstein” already gives rather precise information<br />
about its provenance in the glass. Its<br />
wood-matured counterpart from the Feuerberg<br />
shows complexity while the Sauvignon<br />
Blanc trumps with finesse. Strong performance!<br />
91 2019 »Reserve« Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Gooseberry and ripe peppers on the nose, underpinned by<br />
fine smoke. On the palate there is a sensitive balance of<br />
the elements, the proportions are right, ripe acidity, firm<br />
structure, elegant and finely-crafted.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
88 2019 Scheurebe trocken<br />
90 2017 Flomborn Feuerberg Riesling trocken<br />
A fine Riesling, characterised by ageing in wood alongside<br />
smoky notes, toasty aromas, pear and herbal notes. Strong<br />
and firm construction, a little fruit, structurally marked and<br />
with a mineral base, defined acid structure, pithy on the finish.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 Eppelsheim Felsen Chardonnay tr.<br />
Pear and melon on the nose, green walnut, light notes of honey,<br />
fine wood spice, and hints of smoke. Supple on the palate<br />
with complex layers of good spice, ripe acidity and mineral<br />
appeal. Phenolic tartness, medium density, finishes with<br />
herbal notes. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 Eppelsheim Auxerrois trocken<br />
Ripe fruit on the nose, Reine Claude plum, yellow flowers,<br />
spice and smoke. Opens smoothly on the palate with mild<br />
acidity and intense spice. Fine sweetness nestles delicately,<br />
a finely-balanced wine that reveals a lot in the finish.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 »Kalkgestein« Riesling<br />
Green gooseberry on the nose, Mirabelle, herbs and fine<br />
spicy nuances. Fruity and playful Riesling with a vivid and<br />
ripe acidity, nice spiciness, slender, with a texture and calm<br />
charisma, limestone mineral notes on the finish.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
567
STRAUCH SEKTMANUFAKTUR<br />
Dalbergstrasse 14-18, 67574 Osthofen<br />
T: +49 (6242) 913000, is@strauch-sektmanufaktur.de<br />
www.strauch-sektmanufaktur.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–12 hrs and<br />
13–18 hrs, Saturdays 10–14 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Tim Weissbach<br />
Contact: Isabel Strauch-Weissbach<br />
Hectares: 25 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
Isabel Strauch-Weissbach and Tim Weissbach<br />
produce consistently good to excellent<br />
German Sekts from their 25 hectares<br />
of vines. What we especially appreciate and<br />
like is their restrained use of dosage. This way,<br />
their Sekts remain wonderfully fresh and concentrated,<br />
endowed with crystalline acidity<br />
and fruit. Their “Vieilles Vignes brut” is once<br />
again outstanding, with its power and elegance<br />
it can easily go with food. We also like<br />
the finely-balanced rosé. Yet again a most successful<br />
range of wines from this Sekt manufacture<br />
in Osthofen.<br />
92 NV »Vieilles Vignes« brut<br />
Clear yellow, medium hue. On the nose toast and brioche,<br />
lime zest, white flowers, ripe apple; real complexity. Fine<br />
mousse on the palate, grippy, somewhat phenolic, apple, citrus,<br />
crystalline, yet a certain creaminess. Well-built with<br />
great length. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 NV Riesling brut<br />
91 NV »Zero« brut nature<br />
Fine honey yellow. On the nose brioche, toast, smoke and almond,<br />
wet hot stone. On the palate fine mousse, citrus fruit,<br />
stone fruit, lemon balm, mint. Vivid and powerful, crystalline<br />
with a pleasing austerity. Good structure, long and suitable<br />
for food. 12 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 NV Pinot Blanc brut<br />
Clear, light yellow colour. On the nose delicate flowers, fine<br />
apricot, hazelnut, ripe apple and pear. On the palate fine<br />
mousse, fresh fruit, blood grapefruit and peach. Harmoniously-balanced<br />
with good structure and length, very good as an<br />
aperitif. 12 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 NV »40 Monate« Riesling extra brut<br />
Clear yellow. Toasted almond, brioche, subtle flowers, peach<br />
on the nose. On the palate lime juice, lively acidity, mint,<br />
some pineapple, very fine sparkle, vivid and refreshing. Good<br />
structure, grippy. Nice length and crunchy until the end.<br />
12 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 NV »Rosé Prestige« brut<br />
Salmon red. On the nose sour cherry, raspberry, wild strawberry,<br />
herbal spice. On the palate fine mousse, grippy and<br />
fresh, red fruits, cherry and currant. Well-balanced and<br />
with good structure – for before, during or after the meal.<br />
12 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
568 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT THÖRLE<br />
Rheinhessen | WINERIES<br />
Ostergasse 40, 55291 Saulheim<br />
T: +49 (6732) 5443, info@thoerle-wein.de<br />
www.thoerle-wein.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–12.30 hrs and<br />
14–18 hrs, Saturdays 9–17 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Christoph and Johannes Thörle<br />
Contact: Christoph and Johannes Thörle<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 150,000 (75 % white, 25 % red)/25 ha<br />
The wines made by Christoph and Johannes<br />
Thörle are no longer insider tips<br />
– they are too well-known for that now.<br />
But they still constitute a real recommendation.<br />
Yet again this pair of brothers manages the highwire<br />
act – with a kind of somnambulist<br />
sure-footedness – between power, density and<br />
elegance. Apart from the single-site Rieslings<br />
from Probstey and Hölle, we were really smitten<br />
this year by the Chardonnay Reserve that unites<br />
woody spice with aromatic potential. Likewise<br />
the Spätburgunder from the Probstey site whose<br />
fine tannins are a suitable foundation for the<br />
fullness of fruit so typical for this vintage.<br />
92 2019 »Réserve« Chardonnay trocken<br />
Golden yellow. The nose shows a vanilla note, aromas of ripe<br />
yellow apple, pineapple and violets. On the palate, the fine<br />
acidity balances the flavours. The very good length is accompanied<br />
by light minerality and saltiness. Notes of honeydew<br />
melon and Mirabelle plum on the very appealing finish.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2019 Saulheim Probstey<br />
Riesling Beerenauslese<br />
91 2019 Saulheim Hölle Riesling trocken<br />
Medium lemon yellow. Complex scent of violets, apricot,<br />
peach and grass. Medium-bodied palate with very lively acidity<br />
and flavours of wet stone, lemon zest and lime with a long<br />
finish. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2018 Saulheim Hölle<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Medium purple. Ripe cherry, raspberry and pretzel on the<br />
nose. Discreet use of wood. On the palate, the expressive<br />
acidity balances the medium body, fine tannin as well as flavours<br />
of juniper and wild berries lead into a long finish.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2019 Saulheim Hölle Riesling Auslese<br />
Rich, clear yellow. On the nose ripe citrus fruit, papaya and<br />
some blossom honey. On the layered complex palate there is<br />
spiciness, texture and tension. Highly appealing citrus fruit,<br />
but also ripe pear and dried apricot. Great structure and<br />
length, potential. 7,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2019 Saulheim Probstey Riesling trocken<br />
Medium lemon yellow. A complex nose and palate of ripe<br />
stone fruit, young lemon and acacia. Further flavours of<br />
herbal sage well-balanced with the medium body, very<br />
lively acidity and a very well-integrated mineral finish.<br />
13 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
569
WEINGUT WASEM<br />
Edelgasse 5, 55218 Ingelheim am Rhein<br />
T: +49 (6132) 2220, info@wasem.de<br />
www.weingut-wasem.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 7.30–18.30 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 9.30–18 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Julius Wasem and Johannes Lutzenburg<br />
Contact: Julius Wasem<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 200,000 (45 % white, 55 % red)/24 ha<br />
The Wasen family has made wine in Ingelheim<br />
ever since 1726. Their estate,<br />
in its current form, was founded in<br />
1912. After being divided up in 2019, this part<br />
of it is now run by Holger Wasem and his sons<br />
Julius and Philipp. As is traditional in the town<br />
of Ingelheim, red wines play the starring role<br />
here – above all Spätburgunder as a characterful<br />
and textured terroir wine. It’s all down to<br />
the limestone! The family connections extend<br />
to the price-winning Kloster Engelthal with its<br />
restaurant, conference and event spaces.<br />
93 2017 Ingelheim Sonnenhang<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Wild cherry, redcurrant, herbal spice, then black pepper and<br />
elderberry. Vivid and powerful palate with lots of fine tannin,<br />
a hint of stemminess, but still fine, good acidity. Hints of<br />
spice developing on the finish. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2017 Ingelheim Pares Spätburgunder tr.<br />
Wild cherry, cherry pips, slightly smoky new wood on the<br />
nose. Silky and smooth on the palate, balancing sweet fruit<br />
and slowly gripping tannin on the palate, yet also juicy,<br />
chalky mineral undertones. Elegant acidity, quite fresh, cherry-like<br />
finish. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2018 »Late Release« Ingelheim<br />
Sonnenhang Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
90 2018 Elsheim Blume Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
89 2019 Weissburgunder trocken<br />
88 NV Riesling brut<br />
88 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
91 2018 »Sneak Preview« trocken CD/PN/ME<br />
Plump plush Cabernet fruit, fir honey, panforte and syrup.<br />
Supple and fruit-driven at the start, then dominated by<br />
powerful grainy tannin. Cultivated acidity. On the finish<br />
again dark berry, intense and long-lasting.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2017 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Primary aromatics of chocolate, bay leaf, malt and cherries.<br />
Silky, juicy ripe fruit on the palate, the tannin gains graininess<br />
as the palate evolves. The fine acidic nerve carries the fruit<br />
and evolving mineral notes on the long finish.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
88 2019 Riesling Liter trocken<br />
A rather clear, fresh Riesling fragrance of fresh citrus, bergamot<br />
and floral notes. Juicy on the palate, with crunchy<br />
acidity and well-balanced sweetness. A hearty wine that<br />
whets the appetite - and makes you want to have a second<br />
glass. 12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
570 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT WEBER<br />
Rheinhessen | WINERIES<br />
Herrbornstrasse 26, 55435 Gau-Algesheim<br />
T: +49 (6725) 2263, info@weber-weine.de<br />
www.weber-weine.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 10–13 hrs and<br />
14.30–17.30 hrs, Saturdays 10–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Hermann Weber<br />
Contact: Hermann and Martina Weber<br />
Hectares: 17 ha<br />
Hermann and Martina Weber together<br />
run their estate of 17 hectares in<br />
Gau-Algesheim. Cellar master Hermann<br />
Weber makes his wines in a traditional<br />
and classic style – the wines show substance<br />
and power and come into their own when<br />
paired with hearty food. The red wines, like<br />
the concentrated Frühburgunder (aka Pinot<br />
Noir Précoce) from the Johannisberg site are<br />
characterised by their maturation in wood.<br />
Then there are real surprises: where else would<br />
you still find a Spätlese of Schönburger!<br />
89 2019 Gau-Algesheim Goldberg<br />
Grauburgunder trocken<br />
Ripe pear on the nose, with yellow fruit and apricots. On the<br />
palate, full-bodied with a lot of texture, substance and a ripe,<br />
supporting acid structure. The fine sweetness supports the<br />
full-bodied character, classic style, good companion to<br />
hearty food. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
88 2018 Gau-Algesheim Rothenberg<br />
Schönburger Spätlese<br />
Rich, clear yellow. On the nose rose water, apricot, ripe<br />
peach. Mild acidity on the palate, rose water, noticeable, grippy<br />
sweetness, bright fruit. Medium structure and length.<br />
9 Vol.-%. glass, €<br />
88 2018 »Fumé« Gau-Algesheim Goldberg<br />
Dornfelder trocken<br />
88 2018 »8° Ost« Blauer Silvaner trocken<br />
Ripe pear and apple on the nose, banana and some buttermilk.<br />
Powerfully-built on the palate, clear sweetness underpins<br />
the palate, which is balanced by a vivid acidity. A lot of<br />
juice and texture. Ideal for fans of harmonious wines.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2018 »S*« Gau-Algesheim Johannisberg<br />
Frühburgunder trocken<br />
The nose is dominated by toasty wood aromas, charcoal but<br />
also attractive red fruit, cherry and redcurrant. Powerfully-built<br />
on the palate with good concentration and substance,<br />
lean acidity balanced with the integrated alcohol.<br />
Some spiciness on the finish. 14,5 Vol.-%. glass, €<br />
89 2019 Gau-Algesheim Johannisberg<br />
Gelber Muskateller feinherb<br />
Fully-ripe fruit on the nose, mango and papaya, blade mace<br />
and freshly-grated nutmeg. On the palate, freshness and<br />
sweetness combine in a pleasurable liaison alongside ripe<br />
fruit. Beautiful varietal typicity, clear fruit expression, nice<br />
aperitif. 13 Vol.-%, glass, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
571
WEINGUT WECHSLER<br />
Wormser Strasse 1, 67593 Westhofen<br />
T: +49 (6244) 211, info@weingut-wechsler.de<br />
www.weingut-wechsler.de<br />
Cellar Door: Thursdays and Fridays 10–12 hrs and<br />
13–17 hrs, Saturdays 11–15 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Katharina Wechsler<br />
Contact: Katharina Wechsler<br />
Hectares: 8 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
It is hard to believe but 2019 was Katharina<br />
Wechsler’s tenth vintage already.<br />
While this estate caused quite a number of<br />
stirs in the past, now we can only look to a future<br />
full of excitement: Wechlser has transitioned<br />
to the next phase and is converting her<br />
vineyards to organic farming. Right now, we<br />
took much pleasure in her single-site Rieslings<br />
which are made according to the formula of<br />
‘top terroir + old vines’ – they come across as<br />
purist, salty and fresh in the glass – a real joy.<br />
Way to go!<br />
93 2019 Westhofen Kirchspiel Riesling tr.<br />
Focused, intricate aromatics of light yellow fruit, fine spices,<br />
delicate herbs and some blossom. The palate initially offers<br />
a nuanced, soft palate, fresh and citrusy. Develops a focused<br />
and grippy texture with salty minerality and a finely-spiced,<br />
long, juicy finish. 13 Vol.-%. cork/screwcap, €€€<br />
88 2019 Scheurebe trocken<br />
92 2019 Westhofen Benn Riesling trocken<br />
Full-bodied, structured, mineral, deep, finely-spicy on the<br />
nose. Meadow herb with yellow blossom, red apple, chamomile.<br />
Full rounded palate, deliciously-concentrated juicy<br />
fruit. Citrus tang, mineral grip and vivid acidity with discreet<br />
sharpness and highly-focused finish.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork/screwcap, €€€<br />
90 2019 »Alte Reben« Westhofen Silvaner tr.<br />
Deep, smoky notes on the nose. A rich palate with fine acidity<br />
woven around stony and salty minerality, giving an impression<br />
of delicacy. Linear with a defined acidity and a salty, citric<br />
finish. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 »Sexy MF Pinot Noir unfiltered«<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
Smoky, notes of raspberry on the nose and fine minerality<br />
with a touch of yeast at present. Firm, flowing, palate with<br />
bright acidity, light citrus fruit, then berry aromas on the<br />
length. Grip and focus on the finish. A rosé of good substance.<br />
11,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
91 2019 Westhofen Riesling trocken<br />
Deep, ripe yellow and green fruit aromas offering a real presence<br />
and fine minerality. Clear and concentrated on the palate.<br />
Full of nuances, deliciously juicy citrus and stone fruit<br />
sweetness and salty minerality. Highly focused, firm acid<br />
structure, long length. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
572 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Rheinhessen | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT WEEDENBORNHOF<br />
Am Römer 4–6, 55234 Monzernheim<br />
T: +49 (6244) 387, weingut@weedenborn.de<br />
www.weedenborn.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Gesine Roll<br />
Contact: Gesine Roll<br />
Hectares: 16 ha<br />
This year, Gesine Roll surprised us with a<br />
“Grande Réserve” of Sauvignon Blanc<br />
that really is deserving of the designation<br />
“grande” as well as with a Chardonnay. With<br />
that much limestone in the glass, the grape varieties<br />
almost play no part any longer. The other<br />
wines, too, show that this estate is in top form:<br />
the coolness of the elevated site of Monzernheim<br />
and the limestone of Westhofen are transformed<br />
into elegance and poise. Her Sauvignon<br />
“Terra Rossa” is our Falstaff-tip: the red soil<br />
lends both body and spice to the wine. You are<br />
hard-pushed to find such an expressive terroir-driven<br />
Sauvignon elsewhere for EUR 18.00!<br />
93 2017 »Grande Réserve« trocken<br />
Yellow fruit, discreet smokiness, limestone minerality, spice<br />
and bright blossom. Balanced on the palate with subtle power<br />
and texture from the fine tannic grip. Citric juicy acidity<br />
and delicious saltiness add to the multi-layered, deep and effortless<br />
wine. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2019 Westhofen Chardonnay trocken<br />
90 2019 Chardonnay trocken<br />
89 2019 Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
93 2018 Réserve Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Nuanced and balanced, depth without heaviness.<br />
Stone-dusted minerality and intricate texture. Delicate<br />
fruit sweetness on the palate with notes of grass, gooseberry,<br />
tangerine zest and passion fruit. Citrusy-juicy acid<br />
structure. Finesse meets juice and vivaciousness.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2018 »Réserve« Chardonnay trocken<br />
Fine toasty notes, ripe fruit, yellow apple, some almond, fine<br />
minerality and spiciness. Well-balanced, intricate palate,<br />
clear and flowing with a fine density. Filigree texture, lively<br />
with a fine grip on the finish. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2019 Westhofen Kirchspiel<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Lively wine with fresh vine peach, mandarin, meadow flowers,<br />
wet stone and fine herbs. Well-balanced palate with<br />
much focus on the delicious citrusy, salty acidity. Moreish.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2019 »Terra Rossa« Sauvignon Blanc tr.<br />
Compact, complex and lively nose with smoky, mineral,<br />
gooseberry, passion fruit and fine spice. On the palate juicy<br />
fruit with structure and a grippy acidity. Balanced and<br />
full-bodied, fresh, vivid, multi-layered and focused at the<br />
back. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
573
WEINGUT WERTHER WINDISCH<br />
Schulstrasse 3, 55278 Mommenheim<br />
T: +49 (6138) 9417665, info@werther-windisch.de<br />
www.werther-windisch.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Jens Windisch<br />
Contact: Jens Windisch<br />
Hectares: 13 ha<br />
Jens Windisch is not amongst those winemakers<br />
who doctor their wines with all<br />
sorts of additives to make them smoother,<br />
more obliging or compliant. He also has<br />
clear convictions in the vineyard: no herbicides,<br />
bio-diverse ground cover between vine<br />
rows, fertilisation with homemade compost.<br />
The current range of wines that this thirty-something<br />
winemaker presented suggests<br />
another leap forward: The Harxheimer<br />
Schlossberg Riesling made in a granite vessel<br />
shows Wether’s purist style in the highest possible<br />
resolution. We look forward to seeing<br />
what happens next.<br />
92 2019 Harxheim Schlossberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Complex citrus fruit of kumquat, dried lemon peel and<br />
bergamot. Silky, poised opening, a very round, finely-textured<br />
mid-palate, elegant acidity, lots of juiciness and<br />
mineral interplay. Very long, finessed finish.<br />
12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
91 2019 Harxheim Lieth Silvaner trocken<br />
Yellow-fruited nose, slightly buttery, clearly herbaceous and<br />
chalky mineral tones. Rich on the palate, taut substance on<br />
the midpalate, firm acid backbone, tight extract and mineral.<br />
Great substance. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 »8grad 14minuten« Riesling trocken<br />
Lemon balm, lemon peel and slightly smoky, restrained aroma.<br />
On the palate juicy, relatively broad and poised, intense<br />
citrus fruit, ripe, slowly increasing acidity on the palate,<br />
slight residual sugar but with a focused finish.<br />
12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 »Weiss« trocken BC/MT/GS<br />
Fragrant, fresh mint, lily of the valley, nutmeg, white pepper<br />
and wet sand. Striking acidity, strong tactile minerality<br />
and touch of carbon dioxide. A very dry, emphaticallyfresh<br />
white with nuanced spice finish.<br />
11,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2019 »8grad 14minuten« Silvaner trocken<br />
Finely-nuanced aromas of hay and herbs, slightly nutty underpinnings.<br />
A fine, very clear Sylvaner scent. Silky and<br />
juicy on the palate, medium fruit concentration and body,<br />
delicious phenolics, rock solid in style, fresh, appetising,<br />
good food wine. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
574 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Rheinhessen | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT WITTMANN<br />
Mainzer Strasse 19, 67593 Westhofen<br />
T: +49 (6244) 905036, info@wittmannweingut.com<br />
www.weingutwittmann.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–17 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 11–15 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Philipp Wittmann and Georg Rieser<br />
Contact: Philipp Wittmann<br />
Hectares: 28 ha<br />
The Wittmanns and their forebears have<br />
lived in Westhofen since the 17th century<br />
– and this experience pervades<br />
everything this family puts its hands to. In this<br />
thoroughly strong range of wines that Philipp<br />
Wittmann and his wife Eva have presented,<br />
the Rieslings simply trump everything else.<br />
Even the village wines “aus Ersten Lagen” (“1<br />
G”) possess extreme substance and character<br />
– and this continues all the way to the masterly<br />
Grosses Gewächs from the Morstein – one<br />
of Germany’s best Rieslings of this vintage.<br />
97 2019 Westhofen Morstein Riesling GG<br />
Morstein shows itself in an impressively nuanced way: At first<br />
a fine and restrained nose, yet precise. On the palate, slender,<br />
silky and yet of impressive intensity. Chiselled acidity, tightly<br />
and finely-woven, vivid and yet effervescent.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
95 2019 Westhofen Brunnenhäuschen<br />
Riesling GG<br />
Highly complex and aromatic nose showcasing yellow fruit,<br />
spice and savouriness. The palate opens with superbly balanced<br />
juicy acidity, lots of extract and high density. Phenolic,<br />
spicy and layered peppery notes. Masterly balance.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
93 2019 »1G« Gundersheim Riesling trocken<br />
93 2019 »1G« Westhofen Riesling trocken<br />
91 2019 »1G« Nierstein Riesling trocken<br />
90 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 Weissburgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 Scheurebe trocken<br />
88 2019 Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
95 2019 Westhofen Kirchspiel Riesling GG<br />
Dense enticing aromas of yellow fruit and smoky, spicy notes,<br />
still a touch closed. Lean and tightly-built with ripe, bright<br />
acidity and great intensity. Dense and phenolic texture, mineral<br />
and complex. Needs time to evolve. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
94 2019 Westhofen Aulerde Riesling GG<br />
Multi-layered aromas of herbs and apples, joined by spices<br />
and yellow fruit and hints of cumin. Intense palate with good<br />
balance and coherence, juicy, textural with highly-integrated<br />
phenolics. Concentrated, promising, great potential.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2018 »Reserve« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Medium cherry red. On the nose smoke, sour cherry, redcurrant<br />
and fresh spices. On the palate polished tannins,<br />
fine vein of acidity, dense cherry fruit and spice, attractive<br />
structure and length. 13 Vol.-%, cork<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
575
WEINGUT ZIMMER-MENGEL<br />
Im Adelpfad 1, 55270 Engelstadt<br />
T: +49 (6130) 1788, info@weingut-zimmer-mengel.de<br />
www.weingut-zimmer-mengel.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Fabian Mengel<br />
Contact: Fabian Mengel<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 100,000 (80 % white, 20 % red)/17 ha<br />
One of our tasters noted down the words<br />
“a little value-for-money miracle” as<br />
he tasted the Engelstadter Riesling that<br />
provides so much pleasure for a mere EUR<br />
9.80 – and even the estate Riesling shows real<br />
class. In any case, everything seems to make<br />
sense at Weingut Zimmer-Mengel where Fabian<br />
Mengel has taken over from his parents Andreas<br />
and Stephanie Mengel who support him<br />
in every way they can. The wines show varietal<br />
typicity, character and poise, and are always<br />
made with gastronomy in mind. The just-completed<br />
conversion to organic farming will further<br />
define the profile of this estate.<br />
91 2019 Engelstadt Riesling trocken<br />
Fruity and inviting aromas of passion fruit, peach, herbs and<br />
fine wood notes. A lean palate with traction and tension but<br />
opens up to a more generous and spicy character with a<br />
well-integrated acidity and a layer of phenolics. A lot of wine<br />
for the money. 12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
88 2019 Grauburgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 Scheurebe trocken<br />
Expressive scents of gooseberry, lychee and passion fruit.<br />
Slender and straightforward on the palate, juicy with a bright<br />
acidity and fine spiciness. Discreet tartness is added,<br />
Scheurebe with a high fun factor. 12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 »&é« Rosé Cuvée trocken<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blended Rosé, with aromas<br />
of wild raspberry, blackcurrant, yellow fruit and peach. Soft,<br />
fruity and light-hearted on the palate with a mild acid structure,<br />
fine tannins provide character, salmon-coloured<br />
mood-lifter. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
91 2015 Jugenheim Goldberg<br />
Portugieser trocken<br />
Spicy, slightly balsamic nose, cherry and mulberry, wood<br />
notes and smoke, fresh bay leaf, somewhat ethereal. Supple<br />
on the palate there is vivid acidity, firm structure, stays focused,<br />
some bitter chocolate on the edge, elegant and with<br />
real personality. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
Fruity and spicy nose of apricot, peach, leafy greens and<br />
green apple. Slender and straightforward on the palate,<br />
with good freshness and lively acidity. Clear fruit, finely-integrated<br />
sweetness, but also a certain depth. Textbook estate<br />
Riesling. 12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
576 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT ZINK -<br />
DIE WEINSCHMIEDE<br />
Rheinhessen | WINERIES<br />
Vordergasse 13, 67592 Flörsheim-Dalsheim<br />
T: +49 (6243) 7622, info@weingut-zink.de<br />
www.weingut-zink.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 9–16 hrs, Sundays by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Matthias Zink<br />
Contact: Sybille Hofstätter-Zink<br />
For more than two hundred years, the<br />
Zink family ran a farrier’s smithy while<br />
making wine alongside. While iron<br />
glowed in the smithy’s embers, wines fermented<br />
in the cellar underneath. Now, three symbols<br />
designate the differentiation between the<br />
wines. The wines for everyday drinking carry<br />
a horseshoe, the anvil denotes the more complex<br />
wines, while the hammer stands for power<br />
and filigree structure. We really enjoyed the<br />
stylish Riesling, a finely-spiced red blend and<br />
the juicy Bacchus made from old vines. We already<br />
look forward to tasting the next vintage.<br />
90 2018 Dalsheim Hubacker Riesling trocken<br />
Complex aromatics of yellow fruit, peach, mango and apricot,<br />
accompanied by fine smoke and spice. Lean and firmlybuilt<br />
on the palate, good extract, shows structure and also<br />
density, pleasurable sweetness-acidity interplay, combines<br />
complexity with drinking pleasure. 12,5 Vol.-%. DIAM<br />
and a noticeable sweetness on the finish. Medium structure<br />
and length. 9,5 Vol.-%. DIAM<br />
88 2019 »Blanc de Blancs« trocken WB/CH<br />
90 2018 Dalsheim Steig Chardonnay<br />
Barrique trocken<br />
Honeydew melon on the nose with caramelised walnuts,<br />
pear and hints of vanilla. Broad on the palate with a powerful<br />
texture and good concentration. Textural and juicy, generous<br />
in its dimensions with a sweet extract on the finish. Good use<br />
of wood. A very youthful wine, good ageing potential.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork<br />
90 2019 »Werkstück« trocken DF/PN/BP<br />
Blend of Dornfelder, Pinot Noir and Blauer Portugieser. Aromas<br />
of black cherry, blackberry and sultanas, fine herbs.<br />
Fruity on the palate with light spice, powerfully-built with<br />
ripe and juicy tannins, well-balanced. 13,5 Vol.-%. DIAM<br />
88 2019 Dalsheim Steig<br />
Gewürztraminer Kabinett<br />
Bright, clear yellow. On the nose some rose blossom, in addition<br />
nutmeg, lemon zest. On the palate mild acidity wellbalanced<br />
with flavours of rose water, peach juice, nutmeg<br />
89 2019 »Alte Reben« Bacchus trocken<br />
Fruit-driven nose of grapefruit, ripe mango and papaya<br />
with hints of spice. The fresh acidity provides momentum<br />
on the palate supporting it's slender stature. Concentrated<br />
fruity style, juicy, spicy, elegant and playful. 12 Vol.-%, DIAM<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
577
RHEINHESSEN<br />
Ehrenfels, Bingen<br />
PASSIONATE<br />
HOSTS<br />
TOGETHER WITH THE REGION’S WINEMAKERS – ABSOLUTE EXPERTS<br />
WHEN IT COMES TO GASTRONOMY – FALSTAFF HAS CAREFULLY CHOSEN<br />
AND COLLATED THE BEST ADDRESSES FOR EATING,<br />
DRINKING AND STAYING.<br />
Eppard <br />
55437 Appenheim<br />
Eva Eppard has created a culinary haven in her<br />
beautifully renovated mill that is well worth a detour.<br />
Her cooking is creative and down-to-earth<br />
at the same time and made from predominantly<br />
local produce.<br />
Burg Klopp<br />
55411 Bingen am Rhein<br />
Since 2012, Manuela Heider and Steffen Wenselau<br />
have been catering for hearty appetites, cooking<br />
at the castle above the town of Bingen. The<br />
castle hall with a view of the Rhine-Nahe valley is<br />
a perfect event space. The wines are mostly from<br />
Rheinhessen.<br />
Hundertguldenmühle/Mühle 2<br />
+49 (6725) 9990210<br />
www.100guldenmuehle.de<br />
<br />
RHEINHESSEN<br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 16 | 20<br />
Drinks: 17 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
84<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
Burg Klopp 1<br />
+49 (6721) 15644<br />
www.restaurant-burg-klopp.de<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Prinz Salm<br />
578 falstaff<br />
Wine Guide Germany 2021
RHEINHESSEN | INNS AND RESTAURANTS<br />
Stöckbauers<br />
Weinkastell<br />
67596 Dittelsheim-<br />
Hessloch<br />
Peggy Stöckbauer and her team welcome their<br />
guests in the event restaurant on the Kloppberg,<br />
which offers a magnificent view of the Rhine-Main<br />
region. The creative cuisine is matched<br />
by the wines, for example from Dittelsheim Hessloch<br />
or from other friends' estates in Rheinhessen.<br />
Zum Goldenen Engel<br />
55237 Flonheim<br />
In the cosy atmosphere of a baroque town house,<br />
Sabine and Klaus Mayer offer creatively-sophisticated<br />
cooking. Beef tartare or crispy pulpo are<br />
classics on the menu currently, and the wine list<br />
offers a good selection of Rheinhessen wines.<br />
Am Kloppberg 1<br />
+49 (6244) 57111<br />
www.stoeckbauers-weinkastell.de<br />
Marktplatz 3<br />
+49 (6734) 913930<br />
www.zumgoldenenengel.com<br />
Recommended by: Strauch Sektmanufaktur<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Gysler<br />
Anleger 511<br />
65343 Eltville<br />
The coveted terrace seats with an unobstructed<br />
view of the Rhine are quickly taken, even in unfavourable<br />
weather, and usually for a long time. The<br />
changing gastronomic offer is small and exquisite,<br />
the legendary Bratwurst or the ‘11th generation’<br />
Frikadelle is always a good choice.<br />
Elder<br />
55435 Gau-Algesheim<br />
Classics of German cuisine are on the menu, as are<br />
regional specialities (wonderful Flammkuchen).<br />
When it comes to wine, the restaurant is particularly<br />
dedicated to wines from the Rheinhessen region<br />
but, of course fine international wines are<br />
available, too.<br />
Platz von Montrichard 2<br />
+49 (6123) 689168<br />
www.anleger511.de<br />
Marktplatz 2<br />
+49 (6725) 3077227<br />
www.restaurant-elder.de<br />
Recommended by: Kloster Eberbach<br />
Espenhof <br />
55237 Flonheim<br />
The eighth-generation family-run estate offers<br />
excellent wines from its own vineyards in addition<br />
to fine, upscale country cooking. Many low-intervention<br />
wines can be enjoyed here, including<br />
fresh and light white wines or elegant, fruity reds.<br />
A pleasure.<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Weber<br />
Das Nack<br />
55296 Gau-Bischofsheim<br />
In the casual, but stylish ambience, guests can<br />
choose between regional specialities or Mediterranean<br />
pasta dishes and creative salads. You<br />
should try the Frankfurt Grüne Suppe, Nack's<br />
Fish Soup and of course the legendary Wiener<br />
Schnitzel.<br />
Poststrasse 1<br />
+49 (6734) 962730<br />
www.espenhof.de<br />
<br />
Food: 44 | 50<br />
Service: 17 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 9 | 10<br />
88<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
Pfarrstrasse 13<br />
+49 (6135) 3043<br />
www.restaurant-nack.de<br />
Recommended by: Georg Gustav Huff<br />
80–84<br />
85–89<br />
90–94<br />
95–100 Points<br />
579
Bluhm <br />
55116 Mainz<br />
A Weinstube classic in Mainz's old town attracting<br />
a colourful crowd. The menu is concise, but<br />
the legendary Meenzer Fleischwurst, Handkäse,<br />
Pierre's fish soup and the delicious meat loaf are<br />
always a good choice. They also have the right wines<br />
to accompany them.<br />
Weingold<br />
67583 Guntersblum<br />
Rheinhessen wine is given the starring role on the<br />
wine menu at ‘Weingold’. This regional affinity is<br />
also evident in the kitchen. Stefanie and Dirk Löb<br />
have run this hotel since 2017, after perfecting<br />
their trade in various spots around the globe.<br />
Badergasse 1<br />
+49 (6131) 4906343<br />
www.weinhausbluhm.com<br />
<br />
Bootshaus <br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
87<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
55116 Mainz<br />
Not only are the panoramic views across the Rhine<br />
a draw, but the homely, down-to-earth, regional<br />
food: everything is homemade and freshly prepared.<br />
This is matched by wines from nearby vineyards.<br />
Hauptstrasse 33<br />
+49 (6249) 7965<br />
www.weingold-guntersblum.de<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Fischborn Bergeshof,<br />
Weingut Hiestand<br />
Zum Winzer <br />
67487 Maikammer<br />
A touch of Tuscany wafts through the Mediterranean-influenced<br />
cuisine of Christina and Dirk Albers.<br />
The regional specialities also benefit from<br />
this culinary inspiration; changing promotions<br />
such as the fish and shellfish weeks make visits<br />
even more rewarding.<br />
Victor-Hugo-Ufer 1<br />
+49 (6131) 1438700<br />
www.bootshausmainz.de<br />
<br />
Favorite<br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 17 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 9 | 10<br />
87<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
55131 Mainz<br />
In the hotel restaurant, chef Tobias Schmitt enchants<br />
guests with refined gourmet cuisine, but<br />
things are a little more exclusive in the wine bar.<br />
With the Vintage Wine Bar, the hotel has created a<br />
hotspot that whets the appetite for wine and design.<br />
Weinstrasse Süd 8<br />
+49 (6321) 5410<br />
www.gasthaus-zum-winzer.de<br />
<br />
Food: 42 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 17 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
85<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
Karl-Weiser Strasse 1<br />
+49 (6131) 8015133<br />
www.favorite-mainz.de<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Kühling-Gillot<br />
Photo: HAWK_PHOTO<br />
580 falstaff<br />
Wine Guide Germany 2021
Hofgut<br />
Laubenheimer Höhe <br />
RHEINHESSEN | INNS AND RESTAURANTS<br />
55130<br />
Mainz<br />
The magnificent view from the terrace of the surrounding<br />
countryside alone is worth the trip, but<br />
the gastronomic offer is also impressive. Hearty<br />
regional classics grace the menu, augmented by<br />
some international dishes.<br />
Auf der Laubenheimer Höhe 1-3<br />
+49 (6131) 622260<br />
www.hofgut-laubenheimer-hoehe.de<br />
<br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 17 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
86<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
Ladendorfs Weinhaus<br />
55116 Mainz<br />
Down-to-earth inn cooking and outstanding wines<br />
– a combination that tastes good! Roland and<br />
Silvia Ladendorf combine both in their restaurant.<br />
The selection of top wines with vintage<br />
depth from the most exciting regions is impressive.<br />
Steins Traube<br />
55126 Mainz<br />
Alina and Philipp Stein have put together a wine<br />
list at the Traube that fits in perfectly with their<br />
cooking and takes both tradition and innovation<br />
into account. The focus is on the Rhineland-Pfalz<br />
region – top estates and new discoveries.<br />
Gaustrasse 73<br />
+49 (6131) 2493609<br />
www.ladendorfs-weinhaus.com<br />
Poststrasse 4<br />
+49 (6131) 40249<br />
www.steins-traube.de<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Heiligenblut<br />
Pollers Häusje <br />
55124 Mainz<br />
Anja and Jörg Poller run their restaurant with great<br />
passion. The landlady is a recognised wine<br />
consultant and wine ambassador. Naturally, the<br />
produce of Rheinhessen estates are particularly<br />
close to her heart. Her husband's cuisine has a<br />
Mediterranean influence.<br />
Recommended by: Weingut J. Neus,<br />
Weingut Kühling-Gillot<br />
Willems<br />
55116 Mainz<br />
This kitchen's desire to keep creating new and inspired<br />
dishes is evident. It is based on regional<br />
produce, most of it farmed organically. Wines<br />
from Rheinhessen and from the ‘Great Wine Capitals’,<br />
an association of international wine-growing<br />
regions.<br />
Photo: Hawk_Photo<br />
Grabenstrasse 55<br />
+49 (6131) 43730<br />
www.pollers.de<br />
<br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 17 | 20<br />
Drinks: 16 | 20<br />
Ambience: 7 | 10<br />
83<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
Kapuzinerstrasse 29<br />
+49 (6131) 2109170<br />
www.gasthaus-willems.de<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Riffel<br />
80–84<br />
85–89<br />
90–94<br />
95–100 Points<br />
581
Das Crass<br />
55268 Nieder-Olm<br />
Good, solid country cooking is to be had here,<br />
prepared predominantly with regional and seasonal<br />
produce. Traditional dishes such as roulade of<br />
venison and pheasant breast stuffed with black<br />
pudding are on the menu, as are king prawns and<br />
fresh tagliarini.<br />
Gutsschänke Heise<br />
55283 Nierstein<br />
Situated at the foot of the Roter Hang, the winery<br />
offers good hearty home cooking in a cosy restaurant<br />
alongside 25 different home-grown wines.<br />
Specialities are typical regional dishes such as<br />
Winzersülze with green sauce and Weinkäse with<br />
fresh bread.<br />
Pariser Strasse 129<br />
+49 (6136) 814480<br />
www.das-crass.de<br />
Karolingerstrasse 15<br />
+49 (6133) 5518<br />
www.weinerlebniswelt-heise.de<br />
Recommended by: Falstaff-Redaktion<br />
Recommended by: Falstaff-Redaktion<br />
Civitas<br />
55283 Nierstein<br />
In a cosy atmosphere, guests enjoy the finest German-French<br />
country cuisine at moderate prices.<br />
The small, fine menu is complemented by an exquisite<br />
selection of wines from Nierstein estates<br />
and the surrounding area. Many of them are served<br />
by the glass.<br />
plan B<br />
55283 Nierstein<br />
This modern bistro and restaurant is located on<br />
Nierstein's historic market square. In addition to<br />
tapas and classic burgers, meat prepared on the<br />
lava stone grill is also a speciality. Small fine wine<br />
selection from regional estates.<br />
Marktplatz 9<br />
+49 (6133) 5714995<br />
www.civitasnierstein.eatbu.com<br />
Marktplatz 3<br />
+49 (6133) 5779850<br />
www.planbnierstein.de<br />
Recommended by: Georg Gustav Huff,<br />
Weingut Fritz Ekkehard Huff<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Lamberth<br />
582 falstaff<br />
Wine Guide Germany 2021
Vis à Vis <br />
RHEINHESSEN | INNS AND RESTAURANTS<br />
67574 Osthofen<br />
The old cross-vaulted cellar has been transformed<br />
into a stylish and tastefully-decorated restaurant.<br />
The dishes offered by the young team in the kitchen<br />
are particularly delicious, prepared in a contemporary,<br />
worldly style that preserves both traditional<br />
and seasonal influences.<br />
Zum Gläsernen<br />
Trinkhorn<br />
<br />
55286 Wörrstadt<br />
Markus Lettau shows in his restaurant that downto-earth<br />
cuisine and culinary flights of fancy are<br />
by no means mutually exclusive. The family-run<br />
business also scores with its cordial service, courtesy<br />
of hostess Alina Lettau.<br />
Friedrich-Ebert-Strasse 53<br />
+49 (6242) 5012973<br />
www.visavis-osthofen.de<br />
<br />
Mundart <br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 9 | 10<br />
88<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
55291 Saulheim<br />
Booking ahead is definitely recommended for this<br />
lovely restaurant with its attractive courtyard.<br />
The cuisine enjoys a reputation far beyond the<br />
confines of Saulheim, and the many guests appreciate<br />
the outstanding produce and cooking.<br />
Kegelbahnstrasse 3<br />
+49 (6732) 6005809<br />
www.zum-trinkhorn.de<br />
<br />
Food: 42 | 50<br />
Service: 17 | 20<br />
Drinks: 15 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
82<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
Photo: Stephan Franz Ferdinand Dinges<br />
Weedengasse 8<br />
+49 (6732) 9322966<br />
www.mundart-restaurant.de<br />
<br />
Kaupers<br />
Food: 44 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
88<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
55278 Selzen<br />
Sebastian Kauper's culinary retreat, in a former<br />
barn, is well worth the detour to Selzen. This Michelin-starred<br />
chef's ambitious cuisine offers creatively-imagined<br />
dishes, focusing on the essentials<br />
and always made from best produce.<br />
Kapellenstrasse 18a<br />
+49 (6737) 8325<br />
www.kaupers-kapellenhof.de<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Wechsler,<br />
Weingut J. Neus<br />
Zornheimer<br />
Weinstuben <br />
55270 Zornheim<br />
Rheinhessen cuisine comes with a Mediterranean<br />
twist in this nostalgic former sexton's house<br />
which is lovingly run by Lucas and Marijana<br />
Christgen. Apart from the fresh salads, the juicy<br />
rump steaks are particularly popular.<br />
Röhrbrunnenplatz 1<br />
+49 (6136) 45616<br />
www.zornheimer-weinstuben.de<br />
<br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 9 | 10<br />
88<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
80–84<br />
85–89<br />
90–94<br />
95–100 Points<br />
583
SACHSEN,<br />
SAALE-UNSTRUT,<br />
BRANDENBURG<br />
NEW MOMENTUM IN THE EAST<br />
Photo: Shutterstock
Grosse Gewächse, predominantly of Riesling,<br />
Grau- and Weissburgunder, thrive in the<br />
historic Freyburger Edelacker site<br />
ON THE 51 ST DEGREE<br />
OF LATITUDE<br />
In the past, the limit for professional viticulture was drawn along the 50th degree<br />
of latitude. Today, however, the 51st degree of latitude “Breitengrad 51” has<br />
turned into a slogan for top quality in Germany’s east – with good reason.<br />
WORDS MATTHIAS NESKE<br />
Germany’s top-selling online wine<br />
retailer lists 1,200 German wines.<br />
Six of them hail from Sachsen, or<br />
Saxony, and there are precisely zero from<br />
Saale-Unstrut. Clearly this is a case for<br />
Sandro Sperk. He is not only winemaker<br />
at his wife Marika’s estate - Weingut<br />
Böhme & Töchter. No, since last summer<br />
the wine business graduate has also been<br />
responsible for the sales and marketing of<br />
“Breitengrad 51”, a group of nine<br />
Saale-Unstrut estates – with all the top<br />
ones among them. Since Sperk has taken<br />
the reins, the group has come up with a<br />
website, a new logo and an ambitious<br />
plan, modelled on Austria’s Steiermark, to<br />
come up with a new quality pyramid of<br />
vineyards. “So far we have only awarded<br />
the Breitengrad-51 seal to the wines that<br />
did best in a blind tasting,” Sperk explains.<br />
“Since every estate is only allowed to have<br />
one red and one white wine with the seal,<br />
we got to about 10,000 bottles per annum.<br />
Once our pyramid is fully developed, we<br />
may get to 700,000 or 800,000 bottles per<br />
annum across the different categories.”<br />
There is no question that this will change<br />
Saale-Unstrut’s perception in the market.<br />
The federal-state-owned Landesweingut<br />
Kloster Pforta, the region’s largest estate,<br />
is also a member. With managing director<br />
Bastian Remkes and cellar master Olaf<br />
Stintzing, two new faces with a strong<br />
strategic outlook, joined Kloster Pforta in<br />
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SACHSEN, SAALE-UNSTRUT, BRANDENBURG | A PORTRAIT OF THE REGION<br />
the past two years, looking to propel the<br />
ancient estate forward. In doing so, they<br />
can fall back on true vineyard treasure.<br />
Their monopole, Gosecker<br />
Dechantenberg, with its distinctive<br />
sandstone walls, for instance, was first<br />
documented a 1000 years ago – this turns<br />
it into the oldest continuously-cultivated<br />
vineyard of the region.<br />
Lovers of vinous romanticism and scenery<br />
are well-catered for along the rivers Saale,<br />
Unstrut and Elbe. Historic, terraced vineyards<br />
with tiny parcels? Tick! Everything<br />
is here: from the Kaatschener Dachsberg<br />
and Naumburger Steinmeister via the<br />
previously mentioned Gosecker<br />
Dechantenberg, the different parts of the<br />
Freyburger Edelacker, the Radebeuler<br />
Goldener Wagen all the way to the<br />
Meissener Kapitelberg. And, speaking of<br />
Sachsen, in which the latter two vineyards<br />
are situated: tentative voices wanting to<br />
join Breitengrad 51 can already be heard.<br />
Another winemaking couple in<br />
Burgscheidungen on the river Unstrut has<br />
taken a completely different route.<br />
Konrad Buddrus and Eva-Maria Wehner<br />
with their aptly named mini-estate ‘Konni<br />
All is done by hand: Eva-Maria Wehner and<br />
Konrad Buddrus of Weingut Konni & Evi<br />
make unfiltered, exciting natural wines<br />
& Evi’. It was when he was still a<br />
viticulture student in Franken’s<br />
Veitshöchheim that Buddrus discovered<br />
an ancient vineyard parcel for sale on<br />
Ebay – from then onwards the couple<br />
have forged ahead with burning passion<br />
for their project. Right from the start they<br />
farmed biodynamically in their tiny<br />
SACHSEN WINE REGION<br />
Photos: Shutterstock, provided<br />
Growing area<br />
approx. 490 hectares<br />
Administrative Split<br />
2 districts (Bereich), 4 collective sites<br />
(Grosslage), 17 single sites (Einzellagen)<br />
Soils<br />
Granite, syenite, loess, sandstone<br />
Important Grape Varieties<br />
Riesling, Weissburgunder, Grauburgunder,<br />
Kerner, Traminer<br />
Winegrowers’ Association<br />
Weinbauverband Sachsen e. V.<br />
Fabrikstrasse 16, 01662 Meissen<br />
www.weinbauverband-sachsen.de<br />
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With their for this region downright exotic Chardonnay,<br />
Marika and Sandro Sperk of Weingut Böhme & Töchter have<br />
established an excellent reputation for themselves<br />
parcels where mechanisation is impossible.<br />
But that is not all: a timely harvest is<br />
combined with spontaneous ferments, there<br />
is no fining or filtration and sulphur dioxide<br />
is only added in a tiny doses, when absolutely<br />
necessary. These are natural wines in the<br />
narrower sense of the term – sometimes<br />
austere, sometimes wild, sometimes quite<br />
smooth, but always exciting.<br />
The market for such wines is still limited<br />
in Germany, especially in this region.<br />
Apart from two sales points in Germany,<br />
the entire production thus goes to wine<br />
bars, bistros and specialist cult retailers in<br />
New York, Copenhagen and Tokyo. This<br />
kind of strategy cannot really be applied<br />
widely, of course. Its very success lies in<br />
occupying a niche, but the couple are<br />
SAALE-UNSTRUT WINE REGION<br />
Growing area<br />
approx. 750 hectares<br />
Administrative Split<br />
3 districts (Bereich), 4 collective sites<br />
(Grosslage), 34 single sites (Einzellagen)<br />
Soils<br />
Triassic limestone and sandstone, loess<br />
Important Grape Varieties<br />
Weissburgunder, Riesling<br />
Winegrowers’ Association<br />
Gebietsweinwerbung Saale-Unstrut<br />
Querfurter Strasse 10<br />
06632 Freyburg<br />
www.natuerlich-saale-unstrut.de<br />
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SACHSEN, SAALE-UNSTRUT, BRANDENBURG | A PORTRAIT OF THE REGION<br />
BRANDENBURG WINE REGION<br />
Growing area<br />
approx. 35 hectares<br />
Administrative Split<br />
Most vineyards come under the appellation of<br />
Landweingebiet Brandenburg, smaller areas, like<br />
Schlieben and Werder are designated as<br />
Qualitätsweingebiete under the neighbouring<br />
regions Sachsen and Saale-Unstrut, respectively.<br />
Soils: Deep sands, marl<br />
Important Grape Varieties<br />
Müller-Thurgau, PiWis (fungal-resistant new<br />
breeds)<br />
Winegrowers’ Association<br />
Fachgruppe Weinbau Gartenbauverband Berlin-<br />
Brandenburg e.V., Dorfstrasse 1, 14513 Teltow<br />
route-brandenburger-weinkultur.de<br />
proof that things are happening on the<br />
apparent German wine periphery that<br />
herald dynamism and innovation. Beyond<br />
Breitengrad 51 and natural wine, let’s also<br />
add Weingut Dr. Wobar and Weingut<br />
Wolkenberg to the count of unusual<br />
estates: they grew out of former opencast<br />
mines in the Saxon Lausitz. By now one<br />
thing should be clear: it is absolutely high<br />
time to explore the new momentum in the<br />
east via an extensive tasting of its wines.<br />
INFO<br />
Read more about this author in our Tasting<br />
Panel chapter on page 12.<br />
Estate director Bastian Remkes and cellar master Olaf Stintzing of<br />
Landesweingut Kloster Pforta have fully exploited the potential of<br />
their site portfolio with the wines they presented this year<br />
589
Benedictine monks cultivated vines on the Gosecker<br />
Dechantenberg Weinbau nearly a thousand years ago<br />
GRANDS CRUS – SACHSEN‚ SAALE-UNSTRUT<br />
TOP WINES FROM PRIVILEGED SITES OF THE REGION<br />
PILLNITZ |<br />
KÖNIGLICHER WEINBERG<br />
This 7ha/17 acre site just outside Dresden<br />
was created during the reign of Friedrich<br />
August the I (1750–1827). This Saxon king<br />
even thought of guard cottages and a press<br />
house. Evidently, he was aware of the value<br />
of the weathered granitic soils and the<br />
clement mesoclimate of this mostly<br />
terraced, southwest-facing site rising from<br />
125-180m/410-590ft. The forest on the<br />
Selected Grand Cru Sites<br />
Vineyard<br />
Villages<br />
Radebeul<br />
Elbe<br />
GOLDENER WAGEN<br />
S A C H S E N DRESDEN<br />
Freital<br />
Pillnitz<br />
KÖNIGLICHER WEINBERG<br />
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Quedlinburg<br />
SACHSEN, SAALE-UNSTRUT, BRANDENBURG | GRANDS CRUS<br />
Selected Grand Cru Sites<br />
Vineyard Area<br />
Villages<br />
Lutherstadt<br />
Eisleben<br />
Höhnstedt<br />
Sweet Lake<br />
S A A L E - U N S T R U T<br />
Saale<br />
HALLE<br />
Lake<br />
Geiseltal<br />
DECHANTENBERG<br />
Unstrud<br />
Freyburg<br />
Goseck<br />
Naumburg<br />
Weimar<br />
Ilm<br />
Saale<br />
Zeitz<br />
Photo: Deutsches Weininstitut<br />
north side of the mountain adds excellent<br />
water availability. There are inclines of up<br />
to 40%.<br />
93 2018 Weissburgunder Grosse Lage<br />
93 2018 Riesling Grosse Lage<br />
Weingut Klaus Zimmerling<br />
www.weingut-zimmerling.de<br />
RADEBEUL | GOLDENER WAGEN<br />
The Radebeuler Goldener Wagen is the<br />
eastern most of the three single sites within<br />
the collective site Lössnitz. Its name is<br />
derived from the state vineyard Goldener<br />
Wagen just north of Hoflössnitz. It is<br />
estimated that this 11ha/27 acre site was<br />
created as early as the 13th century. The<br />
terraced site has been known under its<br />
current name since the 18th century. It rises<br />
from 170-240m/557-787ft and the vines<br />
thrive in soils of volcanic origin and<br />
weathered syenite.<br />
93 2019 »Protze« Riesling trocken<br />
93 2019 »Alte Reben« trocken<br />
92 2019 Riesling Auslese<br />
Schloss Wackerbarth, further info on page 596<br />
91 2019 Scheurebe Auslese<br />
Weingut Drei Herren, further info on page 592<br />
Jena<br />
90 2019 Traminer Spätlese<br />
Schloss Wackerbarth, further info on page 596<br />
GOSECK | DECHANTENBERG<br />
This, presumably, oldest still-cultivated<br />
vineyard on the rivers Saale and Unstrut<br />
has been planted since the year 1080 when<br />
Benedictine monks cultivated vines on this<br />
spot close to the Saale. Since 1903 the<br />
vineyard has been owned by the state and<br />
today is a monopole of the federal state<br />
Sachsen-Anhalt who own Landesweingut<br />
Kloster Pforta. This 3.5ha/8.6 acre terraced<br />
site rises from 110-160m/360-524ft and<br />
faces south and southeast. Its walls of<br />
sandstone give clues to the subsoil of<br />
weathered Triassic red sandstone, lending<br />
playfulness and mineral elegance to the<br />
wines.<br />
93 2017 Riesling Beerenauslese<br />
Landesweingut Kloster Pforta,<br />
further info on page 598<br />
591
WEINGUT DREI HERREN<br />
Weinbergstrasse 34, 01445 Radebeul<br />
T: +49 (351) 7956099, info@weingutdreiherren.de<br />
www.dreiherren.de<br />
Cellar Door: Thursdays and Fridays 15–21 hrs,<br />
Saturdays and Sundays 12–21 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Jacob Wiedemann<br />
Contact: Prof. Dr. Rainer Beck<br />
Hectares: 5 ha<br />
The development at this winery, owned<br />
by art professor Rainer Beck hailing all<br />
the way from Swabia, is gratifying –<br />
and a second star is well deserved. We were<br />
both surprised and delighted by the Cabernet<br />
Franc, with its fresh fruit and polished tannins.<br />
‘Cool climate’ could hardly taste better. Cellar<br />
master Jacob Wiedemann’s other wines are<br />
also convincing, like the expressive Riesling<br />
“Spontan” and the finesse of the Weissburgunder<br />
“Jubiläumswein“. We also recommend the<br />
Saxon speciality Goldriesling with its freshness<br />
and precision. Congratulations!<br />
91 2019 »Spontan« Riesling trocken<br />
The nose delivers what the name promises: spontaneous.<br />
Spicy and compactly-built Riesling with character and a little<br />
obstinacy. Phenolically-layered, unadorned and with good<br />
tension, juicy and with ripe lively acidity. Shows provenance<br />
and signature. 12 Vol.-%. screwcap , €€<br />
91 2018 »Jubiläumswein« Weissburgunder tr.<br />
The bouquet shows flowers, apple and yellow fruit with smoky<br />
notes and dried ginger. The palate is juicy with a well framed<br />
texture; elegant, with fine fruit-sweetness, delicately-spiced.<br />
Finely-crafted and extracted, nuanced and full of finesse.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap , €€<br />
92 2018 »Eigensinn« Cabernet Franc trocken<br />
Spicy and complex nose with notes of cassis and fine wood<br />
spice, some roasted peppers, blood orange and spices like<br />
allspice. Tautly-built on the palate, not too powerful with<br />
fine, juicy fruit, interwoven acidity and fine tannins. Elegant<br />
and with character! 13 Vol.-%. screwcap , €€€<br />
91 2019 Radebeul Goldener Wagen<br />
Scheurebe Auslese<br />
Medium, clear yellow. Piquant nose with lots of black and<br />
redcurrant aromas, herbal spice, lemon balm and lime zest.<br />
On the palate black and redcurrant, well judged acidity,<br />
powerful sweetness and juicy lime-freshness. Elegant<br />
structure - bouncy and drinkable. 8,5 Vol.-%. screwcap , €€<br />
90 2016 Sörnewitz Boselberg Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 Scheurebe Landwein trocken<br />
89 2019 Grauburgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 Gelber Muskateller Spätlese trocken<br />
88 2019 »Weiss« trocken MT/SOG<br />
88 2019 »Blanc de Noir« Spätburgunder tr.<br />
90 2018 »Rot« trocken PN/DF<br />
89 2019 Goldriesling trocken<br />
Transparent yellow in the glass. Notes of green apple on<br />
the nose, along with grated lemon zest and herbal notes.<br />
The palate is finely-built with juicy acidity, spice and some<br />
tart lemon juice, very clear and pure. This is all about precision<br />
and freshness. 11,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
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Sachsen | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT SCHLOSS PROSCHWITZ<br />
PRINZ ZUR LIPPE<br />
Dorfanger 19, 01665 Zadel<br />
T: +49 (3521) 76760, weingut@schloss-proschwitz.de<br />
www.schloss-proschwitz.de<br />
Cellar Door: daily from 10–18 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Carolin Böttger,<br />
Martin Schwarz (oenological advice)<br />
Contact: Prof. Dr. Georg Prinz zur Lippe<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 400,000 (76 % white, 24 % red)/70 ha<br />
It is now thirty years ago that Prof. Dr.<br />
Georg Prinz zur Lippe managed to buy<br />
back both the building and estate of<br />
Schloss Proschwitz, piece by piece, and proceeded<br />
to rebuild it with much energy and passion.<br />
The entire family property had been confiscated<br />
by the Soviets in 1945. Today Schloss<br />
Proschwitz is not only the oldest private wine<br />
estate in Sachsen, it is an institution of wine<br />
culture. Currently 70 hectares of vines are being<br />
cultivated; these wines are of a consistently<br />
high standard, and possess a clear expression<br />
and a mineral undertow.<br />
90 2018 Schloss Proschwitz<br />
Grauburgunder GG<br />
A spicy note on the nose is reminiscent of Dutch gingerbread;<br />
promising richness and fullness. The palate is indeed round,<br />
generous and almost waxy in texture. Some phenolic bitterness<br />
offers a graceful counterbalance. 14,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2019 Kloster Heilig Kreuz Riesling Auslese<br />
Clear, rich yellow. On the nose fine dried fruits, apricot,<br />
quince, blossom honey, pineapple. On the palate smoke, undergrowth,<br />
minerality, ripe citrus fruit and grippy acidity. Not<br />
so much sweetness for an Auslese, good structure. Ideal with<br />
spicy dishes. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2017 Schloss Proschwitz Spätburgunder GG<br />
Bing and Amarena cherry on the nose, also floral notes, violets<br />
and blood orange. On the palate juicy, spicy and with a<br />
slight pepper note. Medium body, good structure, grippy tannin,<br />
slightly astringent - aims for balance and elegance - fine<br />
acidity. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2017 Traminer Riesling Auslese<br />
Rich honey yellow, clear. On the nose rose, blossom honey,<br />
dried fruits, figs, dates, roasted nuts, mango. On the palate<br />
sweet texture, creaminess, sweetness and acidity in balance,<br />
densely woven, honey, ripe fruit. Good length, good potential.<br />
10,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
89 2019 Meissen Grauburgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 Meissen Scheurebe trocken<br />
88 2019 Elbling trocken<br />
88 2019 Goldriesling trocken<br />
89 2019 Meissen »Blanc de Noir«<br />
Spätburgunder Spätlese feinherb<br />
88 2019 Rosé trocken<br />
90 2016 »Cuvée Moritz« Meissen tr. DF/PN<br />
90 2019 Meissen Weissburgunder trocken<br />
The gentle floral scent is discreet yet persistent. It is followed<br />
by a creaminess and a fine freshness which beautifully<br />
counters the slightly smoky fruitiness on the palate.<br />
A melting texture predisposes this as a wine for the table.<br />
13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
593
ROTHES GUT MEISSEN<br />
Lehmberg 4, 01662 Meissen<br />
T: +49 (3521) 75 45 46 7, strasser@rothesgut.de<br />
www.rothesgut.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays and Tuesdays 10–16 hrs,<br />
Wednesdays through Saturdays 10–18 hrs,<br />
Sundays 11–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Martin Biedermann<br />
Contact: Tim Strasser<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 50,000 (92 % white, 8 % red)/19 ha<br />
We really do like Tim Strasser’s<br />
wines. Not only does he continuously<br />
climb the quality ladder, he<br />
also keeps expanding his vineyards. Currently<br />
he cultivates 19 hectares close to the Meissener<br />
Albrechts Castle. In doing so, he has become<br />
a specialist in fungal-resistant grape varieties<br />
like Helios, or Hibernal. Beyond that, he<br />
makes a Beerenauslese that even evokes<br />
thoughts of Sauternes. The dry whites offer<br />
fine fruit and are unembellished, like the Sauvignon<br />
Blanc for instance. A great collection –<br />
congratulations on the second star!<br />
91 2019 Meissen Ratsweinberg<br />
Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Spicy nose, not too bold, as the grape variety often shows,<br />
rather closed - some yellow fruit, passion fruit and gooseberry.<br />
Powerful and compact. Well-proportioned on the palate,<br />
dense and balanced, some seaweed, salty. An individualistic<br />
interpretation. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap , €€<br />
palate there’s as much substance as sweetness, the acidity<br />
remains discreetly in the background. The palate structure<br />
has a distant resemblance to Sauternes, although more<br />
northern and without wood. 12 Vol.-%. screwcap , €€€<br />
89 2019 Meissen Ratsweinberg Helios trocken<br />
91 2018 Meissen Ratsweinberg<br />
Grauburgunder halbtrocken<br />
Powerful nose with real impact, smoke and toast aromas,<br />
quince and pear peel, a touch of incense. Powerful character<br />
showing a lot of substance, volume, power and charm on the<br />
palate as well as noticeable residual sweetness. Potential to<br />
mature and be paired with the right food.<br />
15 Vol.-%. screwcap , €€<br />
89 2019 Meissen Scheurebe trocken<br />
Fresh, fruity and spicy nose; yellow fruit, some lemongrass,<br />
grapefruit and redcurrant. On the palate there is a selfconfident<br />
acid structure, beautiful and intense spiciness.<br />
Not too sweet, taut and slenderly-built. Straightforward in<br />
its character, fresh-faced. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap , €€<br />
92 2018 Meissen Ratsweinberg<br />
Hibernal Beerenauslese<br />
Passion fruit, grassy-greenish notes, candied fruit. On the<br />
90 2019 Meissen Müller-Thurgau trocken<br />
Still somewhat closed nose, yeast, apple and apple peel<br />
show up, also plum and herbal notes. A slender-shaped<br />
palate, exciting, fine juice, mild acidity and herbs all combine<br />
in the spicy finish; natural character.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
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WEINGUT SCHUH<br />
Sachsen | WINERIES<br />
Dresdner Strasse 314, 01640 Sörnewitz<br />
T: +49 (3523) 84810, info@weingut-schuh.de<br />
www.weingut-schuh.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 12–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 11–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Matthias Schuh<br />
Contact: Katharina Pollmer, Matthias Schuh<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 60,000 (67 % white, 33 % red)/5 ha<br />
Weingut Schuh, which is run by Matthias<br />
Schuh and his sister Katharina<br />
Pollmer, has invested in a modern<br />
cellar over recent years. These efforts are<br />
now starting to pay off and show in the quality<br />
of the wines. Especially the single-site wines,<br />
like the Riesling from the Meissener Kapitelberg<br />
site which was matured in a Halbstück<br />
barrel, and the Weissburgunder from the Meissener<br />
Klausenberg site show good substance<br />
and character. The “Pét Nat” of Scheurebe<br />
shows experimental spirit, while the “Schuh”<br />
series in white, pink and red guarantees drinking<br />
pleasure at a good quality level.<br />
91 2018 »Halbstück« Meissen Kapitelberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Nutty and herbal notes on the nose, ripe stone fruit and mint,<br />
fine smoke. Compactly-built on the palate, there is a firm<br />
structure and good substance. Juicy, ripe acidity and spiciness<br />
are balanced and nicely interwoven. Good use of wood,<br />
will continue to mature. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2018 Meissen Klausenberg<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Mirabelle on the nose, light tobacco, herbs, a fine malt note.<br />
A powerful structure with substance and density. Juice and<br />
spice come together on the palate, ripe and juicy acidity provides<br />
balance. Dry, shows its provenance and has potential.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2019 »Pét Nat« Scheurebe trocken<br />
Clear yellow. On the nose black and redcurrant, lemon zest,<br />
blackberry, stone fruit. Very lively acidity on the palate, fine,<br />
unobtrusive mousse, currant, gooseberry, pear, fine phenolics,<br />
plus citrus and lime juice. Crystalline.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. crown cap, €€<br />
90 2017 Meissen Kapitelberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Spicy and herbal nose with lovage and thyme shows ripe red<br />
fruit and rosehip, strong woody tone, some incense. The palate<br />
shows sour cherry with an alert acidity, powerful and persistent<br />
construction, still slightly astringent tannins.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 Riesling Kabinett feinherb<br />
88 2019 Scheurebe trocken<br />
88 2019 »Der Weisse Schuh« trocken RR/MT<br />
89 2019 »Der Rosa Schuh« trocken<br />
89 2019 »Der Rote Schuh« trocken DF/DU<br />
89 2016 »Premium« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
88 2017 Meissen Klausenberg<br />
Dunkelfelder trocken<br />
89 2019 Elbling trocken<br />
Smells of green apple and citrus fruit, also white flowers<br />
and meadow herbs. Good freshness on the palate; lean<br />
structure, juicy with fine fruit sweetness, also spice and<br />
ripe lemon juice. Filigree and fruity Elbling that pleases<br />
with its clear character. 12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
595
SACHSEN | WINERIES<br />
<br />
SÄCHSISCHES STAATSWEINGUT<br />
SCHLOSS WACKERBARTH<br />
Wackerbarthstrasse 1, 01445 Radebeul<br />
T: +49 (351) 89550, kontakt@schloss-wackerbarth.de<br />
www.schloss-wackerbarth.de<br />
Cellar Door: daily from 10–19 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Jürgen Aumüller<br />
Contact: Sonja Schilg<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 600,000 (80 % white, 20 % red)/92 ha<br />
The Staatsweingut in Radebeul has blossomed.<br />
It is not only the boxwood topiary<br />
in the baroque garden that has devotedly<br />
been rendered into precise shapes, no,<br />
the wines themselves also show increasing stature.<br />
Meanwhile, the upkeep and repair of the<br />
stonewall terraces in the Goldener Wagen site<br />
are acts of cultural preservation. Two parcels<br />
within this site are vinified and bottled separately,<br />
deservedly, and are witnesses of the deeply-rooted,<br />
historic wine culture of the Free State<br />
of Saxony. Likewise, the Sekt culture in Saxon<br />
is eagerly nutured in the best of tradition. That<br />
much wine culture deserves a fourth star!<br />
93 2019 »Protze« Radebeul Goldener Wagen<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
A hint of rose scent hovers around the ripe, supple, fruity<br />
creaminess of the seductive nose. That this wine is concentrated<br />
is beyond question, it has an almost waxy texture too.<br />
This combination of dryness and richness is unparalleled.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
93 2019 »Alte Reben« Radebeul Goldener<br />
Wagen trocken PP/PG/TR<br />
Field blends are underestimated: their virtue consists in uniting<br />
the best aspects of the various grape varieties. Fragrance,<br />
texture, density, freshness and aromatics are united here and<br />
interwoven like an elaborate tapestry. Already complex now, it<br />
will become even more complex. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
92 2018 Laubach Thonberg Spätburgunder tr.<br />
Sour cherry, very fresh and juicy, slightly smoky undertones.<br />
On the palate, densely-textured and densely-fruity, full-bodied,<br />
beautifully combine without an ounce of fat. Pronounced<br />
underlying fruitiness, juiciness and mineral notes - stylish Pinot.<br />
14,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
94 2019 Radebeul Wackerbarthberg<br />
Riesling Beerenauslese<br />
Herbaceous aroma, candied lemon peel, delicate botrytis. On<br />
the palate there is fine, concentrated acidity, high density<br />
and fruit-borne sweetness. Not a thick Beerenauslese, but<br />
one with interplay as well as elegance and a clear mineral<br />
tone. 8 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
90 2019 Radebeul Goldener Wagen<br />
Traminer Spätlese<br />
90 2019 Radebeul Paradies Riesling Spätlese<br />
90 2018 Scheurebe Sekt<br />
89 2019 Radebeul Paradies Kabinett RR/TR<br />
89 2016 Rosé Sekt brut<br />
90 2018 Blaufränkisch trocken<br />
92 2019 Radebeul Goldener Wagen<br />
Riesling Auslese<br />
91 2019 Scheurebe trocken<br />
Boxwood and nettle, elderflower and the peel of ripe amalfi<br />
lemons combine to create a beguiling fragrance. On the<br />
palate, the aromatic spectacle continues, offering us some<br />
ripe, waxy texture, but also the wonderful, bright acidity<br />
typical of the variety. 11,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
596 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
SAALE-UNSTRUT | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT GROBER FEETZ<br />
Mühlstrasse 32, 06632 Freyburg<br />
T: +49 (179) 7460967, weinhaus-groberfeetz@web.de<br />
www.grober-feetz.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, Fridays<br />
and Saturdays 12–18 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Stephanie Grober-Feetz<br />
Contact: Stephanie Grober-Feetz<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 18,000 (75 % white, 25 % red)/2 ha<br />
We pay our compliments to Stephanie<br />
Grober-Feetz and her husband<br />
Tino Feetz, the couple really surprised<br />
us with their 2019 white wines and their<br />
2018 red wines. The wines have drive, freshness<br />
and substance and show the fine minerality<br />
of the terraced vineyards in the sites of Freyburger<br />
Edelacker, Grossjenaer Blütengrund<br />
and Zscheiplitzer Himmelsreich. Amongst the<br />
whites, it is the two Rieslings that take the top<br />
spots, amongst the reds, it is the wood-spiced<br />
Spätburgunder “Barrique” from the Edelacker<br />
site. We are pleased to reward this performance<br />
with the second star. Congratulations!<br />
91 2019 Freyburg Edelacker Riesling<br />
Auslese trocken Holzfass<br />
Fresh citrus on the nose - orange, tangerine, but also herbaceous,<br />
slightly mineral undertones. On the palate juicy, compact,<br />
firm acid backbone, toasty wood notes, dense and<br />
full-bodied. Great potential, will develop towards greater<br />
spiciness. 13 Vol.-%. synthetic closure , €€<br />
90 2019 Freyburger Edelacker Grauburgunder<br />
Auslese trocken Holzfass<br />
Nuances of wood, honey notes, nutty tones, pepper. On the<br />
palate there is creaminess in the background and a very<br />
round and homogeneous silkiness and fine extract. Full, ripe<br />
acidity; a light spicy wood note accompanies the flavours on<br />
the palate. 13 Vol.-%. synthetic closure , €€<br />
91 2018 Freyburg Edelacker Spätburgunder<br />
trocken Barrique<br />
Plum and raspberry, full-fruited, starting to develop. Discreet<br />
use of wood. On the palate plump, very aromatic, cherry<br />
fruit, discreet caramel, quite round and full-bodied, finegrained<br />
tannin, firm acid backbone, substantial extract,<br />
chalky mineral finish. 14 Vol.-%. synthetic closure , €€€<br />
90 2016 Zscheiplitz Himmelreich<br />
Portugieser Eiswein<br />
Dark gold with mahogany reflections. On the nose sultana,<br />
dried apple, a hint of beeswax, panforte. Smooth palate,<br />
slightly viscous, light in substance, ripe acidity, relatively<br />
long ferment thus strong in alcohol. Great with blue cheese.<br />
10,5 Vol.-%. synthetic closure , €€€<br />
90 2019 »Muschelkalk« Grauburgunder<br />
Spätlese trocken<br />
89 2019 »Muschelkalk« Weissburgunder<br />
Spätlese trocken<br />
88 2018 »Mühlengang weiss« Spätlese<br />
trocken SÄ/GM/MM/RM<br />
90 2018 Grossjena Blütengrund Regent<br />
Barrique<br />
90 2018 »Muschelkalk« Portugieser trocken<br />
89 2018 Spätburgunder Auslese trocken<br />
89 2018 »Mühlengang rot« tr. RE/BP/DF/PN<br />
91 2019 »Muschelkalk« Riesling Spätlese tr.<br />
A finely-spiced Riesling fragrance, discreetly balsamic and<br />
limey, smoky, apple, peach. On the palate silky and nuanced;<br />
well-rounded with a fine, cultivated vein of acidity.<br />
Elegant stature, good length; the mineral tone gives the<br />
wine delicacy. 12 Vol.-%, synthetic closure, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
597
SAALE-UNSTRUT | WINERIES<br />
<br />
LANDESWEINGUT<br />
KLOSTER PFORTA<br />
Saalberge 73, 06628 Bad Kösen<br />
T: +49 (34463) 3000, service@kloster-pforta.de<br />
www.kloster-pforta.de<br />
Cellar Door: daily from 10–18 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Olaf Stintzing<br />
Contact: Bastian Remkes<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 320,000 (70 % white, 30 % red)/50 ha<br />
Landesweingut Kloster Pforta underscores<br />
its ambitions with its white wines<br />
from the 2019 vintage and its reds from<br />
2018, up to now we have never tasted a range<br />
of wines of such quality! The team surrounding<br />
manager Bastian Remkes and cellar master<br />
Olaf Stintzing is getting better and better at<br />
exploiting the potential of those 50 hectares of<br />
vineyards along the rivers Saale and Unstrut.<br />
They are turning out wines with profile and<br />
character, especially the “Breitengrad 51”<br />
wines that have become yardsticks of the viticultural<br />
possibilities of the region and the nobly<br />
sweet wines are exquisite too.<br />
92 Breitengrad51 Saalhäuser<br />
Weissburgunder trocken 2019<br />
Burgundy berry aroma, slightly nutty, fresh wheat grain, but<br />
also Spätlese nuances with yellow fruit and banana. Forward<br />
on the palate with finely-grained phenolics, powerful structure,<br />
sturdy and well-balanced by the ripe acidity. Dense aromatics<br />
and substance. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2018 »Breitengrad51« Saalhausen<br />
Zweigelt trocken<br />
Black cherry and prune, some herbs, tar and super ripe dark<br />
berry aromas. Oily base, ripe medium-grained tannins, soft<br />
and voluminous, slightly salty, chalky minerality and good<br />
density. A full-bodied red of real class. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
94 2019 Saalhausen Spätburgunder<br />
Beerenauslese<br />
Rich, clear yellow. On the nose blossom honey and dried fruits:<br />
apricot and date, in addition nuances of roasted almond, papaya.<br />
Textural sweetness on the palate, dense, honey, spice and<br />
exotic fruits. Densely-woven, enormous extract, finishes long<br />
and spicy. Has ageing potential. 9,5 Vol.-%. screwcap , €€€<br />
93 2019 Goseck Dechantenberg Riesling<br />
Beerenauslese<br />
Clear, rich yellow. Overt nose; dried fruits, apricot, sultana,<br />
candied orange peel, lemon balm, honey spice. Dense on the<br />
palate, bergamot, lavender, dried apricot, date. Denselywoven<br />
with a fine vein of acidity, texture and length. Has<br />
ageing potential. 9,5 Vol.-%. screwcap , €€€<br />
92 2019 Saalhausen Steillage Riesling tr.<br />
91 2018 Saalhausen Weissburgunder<br />
Holzfass trocken<br />
90 2019 Weissburgunder trocken<br />
90 2018 Pforta Köppelberg Blauer Silvaner tr.<br />
89 2019 Riesling trocken<br />
90 2018 Saalhausen Spätburgunder trocken<br />
89 2017 »Alte Rebe« Saalhausen Steillage<br />
Zweigelt trocken<br />
90 2019 Pforta Köppelberg Weisser Heunisch tr.<br />
Hay and white flowers, plus some sultana; juicy and lean on<br />
the palate, plus healthy acidity (but not green!) Good substance,<br />
smooth texture, very good density and balance. A<br />
great varietal with freshness, clarity and spice.<br />
12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
598 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
BRANDENBURG | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINBAU DR. WOBAR<br />
Seestrasse 100, 01983 Grossräschen<br />
T: +49 (151) 11622315, info@weinbauwobar.de<br />
www.weinbauwobar.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Jacques du Preez<br />
Contact: Dr. Andreas and Dr. Cornelia Wobar<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 10,000 (69 % white, 31 % red)/1 ha<br />
Weinbau Dr. Wobar is the very first<br />
estate in Brandenburg ever featured<br />
in this guide. Just 1.4 hectares<br />
of wines are cultivated, planted to fungal-resistant<br />
varieties. The particular climatic<br />
conditions around Lake Grossräschen with<br />
2018 annual sunshine hours and 51 summer<br />
days, mean that the grapes can ripen fully. The<br />
marl soils of morainic origin, the day-night<br />
temperature amplitude and yield reduction result<br />
in aromatic wines. Jacques du Preez, cellar<br />
master at Schloss Proschwitz, makes the<br />
wines. We are smitten with this premiere!<br />
90 2019 Solaris trocken<br />
Multi-layered aroma of ripe apples, stone fruit and also star<br />
fruit, spice, mint and some menthol. Substantial power on<br />
the palate, ripe fruit and spice, full-bodied and concentrated,<br />
with fine astringency, multi-layered and well suited for white<br />
meat. 15 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
88 2019 Johanniter trocken<br />
89 2015 »JACques« brut nature<br />
Ripe yellow fruit, citrus fruit on the nose and nuances of lactic<br />
notes. On the palate there is lively acidity and drive, the<br />
mousse also shows dynamism, slender composition. A sparkling<br />
wine that pleases with its direct and animating style<br />
and good spiciness. 12 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
90 2016 Pinotin trocken<br />
On the nose wild strawberry, blackberry, cherry, woody spice<br />
and some undergrowth with a slight ethereal tone. Leanlybuilt<br />
on the palate, good structure and extract, crisp acidity<br />
and lots of spice. Reaches a respectable complexity and<br />
length. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
89 2018 Pinotin trocken<br />
Fragrant and fruity nose with sour cherry, elderberry and wild<br />
blackberry. Velvety and fruity. On the palate there is mild acidity<br />
and fine spice, leanly-composed and sensitively-extracted<br />
with supple tannins. Nice tartness. An elegant Pinotin, pairs<br />
well with food too. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 Cabernet Blanc trocken<br />
Ripe citrus fruit on the nose, also passion fruit, some lemon<br />
balm and elderflower. Full-bodied. Medium-bodied<br />
structure n the palate, juicy with spice, good balance with<br />
integrated acidity with a salty lingering touch, also notes<br />
of oyster shell. Ideal on its own or to be enjoyed with fish.<br />
13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
599
SACHSEN, SAALE-UNSTRUT<br />
Dresden<br />
PASSIONATE<br />
HOSTS<br />
TOGETHER WITH THE REGION’S WINEMAKERS – ABSOLUTE EXPERTS<br />
WHEN IT COMES TO GASTRONOMY – FALSTAFF HAS CAREFULLY CHOSEN<br />
AND COLLATED THE BEST ADDRESSES FOR EATING,<br />
DRINKING AND STAYING.<br />
Renoir <br />
08209 Auerbach<br />
Vogtland<br />
Creative, classic and fresh! Chef Ulf König takes<br />
these qualities to heart and offers classic French<br />
and international cuisine. Owner, and trained<br />
sommelier, André Baldauf contributes the best<br />
wines from across the world.<br />
Wjelbik <br />
02625 Bautzen<br />
This listed inn is home to Sorbian and Bohemian<br />
cooking, authentically prepared by chef Thomas<br />
Lukasch. Wedding soup, curd cheese with linseed<br />
oil or Bautzen Platter are favourites, accompanied<br />
by Sachsen wines and Oberlausitzer beer.<br />
Schönheider Strasse 235<br />
+49 (3744) 215119<br />
www.restaurant-renoir.de<br />
<br />
SACHSEN, SAALE-UNSTRUT<br />
Food: 42 | 50<br />
Service: 17 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 7 | 10<br />
84<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
Kornstrasse 7<br />
+49 (3591) 42060<br />
www.wjelbik.de<br />
<br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 16 | 20<br />
Drinks: 16 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
83<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
600 falstaff<br />
Wine Guide Germany 2021
Landgasthof<br />
Topfmarktscheune <br />
09235<br />
Burkhardtsdorf<br />
In the beautifully-restored barn of this country<br />
inn guests can look forward to a whole range of<br />
traditional and seasonal dishes. Most of the produce<br />
and ingredients are local; roast Erzgebirge<br />
venison is always an excellent choice.<br />
| INNS AND RESTAURANTS<br />
Bülow's Bistro <br />
01097 Dresden<br />
With his interpretation of German cuisine having<br />
a lightness of touch, chef Sebastian Bellmann has<br />
turned the bistro at Hotel Bülow Palais into a popular<br />
gastronomic spot in Dresden. His unfussy<br />
cooking with local produce goes well with exciting<br />
wines from local young winemakers.<br />
Topfmarkt 7<br />
+49 (3721) 24324<br />
www.topfmarktscheune.de<br />
<br />
Fischerhof <br />
Food: 42 | 50<br />
Service: 16 | 20<br />
Drinks: 16 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
82<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
08451 Crimmitschau<br />
The Lokotsch family has been managing ponds in<br />
the Mannichs Forest for three generations now;<br />
the freshly caught fish prepared in the kitchen of<br />
this charming farmhouse comes from here. Meat<br />
comes from nearby farmers and the wine from the<br />
best growers in the country.<br />
Königstrasse 14<br />
+49 (351) 80030<br />
www.buelow-palais.de<br />
<br />
Daniel <br />
Food: 44 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
88<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
01309 Dresden<br />
Daniel Chef (yes, this is his name) prefers downto-earth<br />
cooking and sources most of his ingredients<br />
directly from producers in the region. The<br />
focus is on respectful handling of the raw materials.<br />
His kitchen concept is rounded off by an<br />
excellent selection of wines.<br />
Am Torteich 29<br />
+49 (36608) 20640<br />
www.gasthaus-fischerhof.de<br />
<br />
Neubert’s <br />
Food: 41 | 50<br />
Service: 17 | 20<br />
Drinks: 16 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
82<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
08451 Crimmitschau<br />
Hospitality, quality produce and passion: this is<br />
how Volker Neubert advertises his restaurant and<br />
he keeps his promises. The steaks, in particular ,<br />
are outstanding and grilled to order. They are served<br />
with homemade sauces of the finest quality.<br />
Gluckstrasse 3/Ecke Dürerstrasse<br />
+49 (351) 81197575<br />
www.restaurant-daniel.de<br />
<br />
Elements <br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 17 | 20<br />
Drinks: 17 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
85<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
01099 Dresden<br />
Relaxed gourmet cuisine with a casual touch and<br />
pure flavours. Stephan Miessner achieves the<br />
masterstroke of presenting his aroma-laden dishes<br />
and textures without frills and in straightforward<br />
fashion. The remarkable wine list is arranged<br />
by grape variety.<br />
Jakobsgasse 25a<br />
+49 (3762) 941806<br />
www.neuberts-restaurant.de<br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 16 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
Königsbrücker Strasse 96<br />
+49 (351) 2721696<br />
www.restaurant-elements.de<br />
Food: 46 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 9 | 10<br />
<br />
85<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
<br />
91<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
80–84<br />
85–89<br />
90–94<br />
95–100 Points<br />
601
Genuss Atelier <br />
01099 Dresden<br />
The Genussatelier of siblings Marcus and Nicole<br />
Blonkowski is a place of high standards and creative<br />
techniques. On the surprising menu, German<br />
cuisine classics are reinterpreted. The wine selection<br />
is characterised by regional wines.<br />
Genussbar<br />
by Ronny Löser <br />
09599 Freiberg<br />
Creative cuisine inspired by the best seasonal produce<br />
and prepared with French accents: Ronny<br />
Löser's Genussbar also boasts a well-stocked<br />
wine cellar. The host always finds the right wine<br />
and sometimes even serves a cigar with it.<br />
Bautzner Strasse 149<br />
+49 (351) 25028337<br />
www.genuss-atelier.net<br />
<br />
Petit Frank <br />
Food: 44 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 16 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
86<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
01127 Dresden<br />
This small, fine restaurant celebrates the French<br />
art de vivre. Whether it's Provencal bouillabaisse,<br />
lobster tail on classic ratatouille or a selection of<br />
the finest raw milk cheeses, a matching wine is always<br />
recommended. Lovely garden.<br />
Mönchsstrasse 1<br />
+49 (3731) 2188290<br />
www.genussbar-freiberg.de<br />
<br />
Laurus <br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
87<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
09232 Hartmannsdorf<br />
The modern restaurant focuses on healthy, but delicious<br />
cooking that reflects the seasons and is based<br />
on regional ingredients and produce. The inhouse<br />
herb garden plays an important role in the<br />
commendable holistic concept.<br />
Bürgerstrasse 14<br />
+49 (351) 8211900<br />
www.petit-frank.de<br />
<br />
Schmidt's <br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 17 | 20<br />
Drinks: 17 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
85<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
01109 Dresden<br />
The fact that the menu changes weekly says everything<br />
you need to know! Imagination and creativity<br />
are the hallmarks of this restaurant with its<br />
Mediterranean loft atmosphere. Guests are treated<br />
to attractive brasserie dishes for lunch and<br />
dinner.<br />
Limbacher Strasse 19<br />
+49 (3722) 50521<br />
www.laurus-vital.de<br />
<br />
Schwarzbachtal <br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 17 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
86<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
01848 Hohnstein<br />
This country inn set amongst meadows and forests<br />
offers not only tranquillity, but a kind of allround<br />
hospitality where guests are pampered. The<br />
attractive menu is regional and seasonal and also<br />
offers imaginative dishes for vegetarians.<br />
Moritzburger Weg 67<br />
+49 (351) 8044883<br />
www.schmidts-dresden.de<br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 17 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
Niederdorfstrasse 3<br />
+49 (35975) 80345<br />
www.schwarzbachtal.de<br />
Food: 42 | 50<br />
Service: 17 | 20<br />
Drinks: 17 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
<br />
86<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
<br />
84<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
602 falstaff<br />
Wine Guide Germany 2021
Westphalenhof<br />
02977 Hoyerswerda<br />
Chef Alexander Westphal and his team know how<br />
to make guests happy. In the cosy restaurant,<br />
lovingly-prepared home cooking is served, including<br />
classics such as Königsberger Klopse and ox<br />
shoulder braised in red wine.<br />
| INNS AND RESTAURANTS<br />
Adams Gasthof <br />
01468 Moritzburg<br />
The inn, a historic building, is known above all for<br />
its unpretentious, down-to-earth cuisine. In the<br />
wood-panelled parlour, hearty soups are served,<br />
as well as roast calf's liver, venison goulash with<br />
mushrooms or crispy roast duck.<br />
Dorfaue 43<br />
+49 (3571) 913944<br />
www.westphalenhof.de<br />
Recommended by: Rothes Gut Meissen<br />
Rosenschänke <br />
01731 Kreischa<br />
From small beginnings, the Walther family has<br />
turned the property into a really stylish country<br />
hotel that also offers a lot in terms of cuisine. The<br />
cooking is down-to-earth and homely, always adding<br />
a little aromatic touch to each dish.<br />
Markt 9<br />
+49 (35207) 99775<br />
www.adamsgasthof.de<br />
<br />
Food: 42 | 50<br />
Service: 17 | 20<br />
Drinks: 16 | 20<br />
Ambience: 9 | 10<br />
84<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
Baumschulenstrasse 17<br />
+49 (35206) 21870<br />
www.landhotel-rosenschaenke.de<br />
<br />
Weinbeisserei <br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 17 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
86<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
04416 Markkleeberg<br />
Everything revolves around the grape here. In<br />
Austrian, ‘Weinbeisser’ refers to the wine drinker<br />
who mindfully enjoys every sip. This culture is celebrated<br />
here: with Mediterranean-inspired dishes<br />
and matching wines from Austria and the Saale-Unstrut<br />
region.<br />
Zufriedenheit<br />
06618 Naumburg<br />
The name (‘Satisfaction’) says it all with this historic<br />
inn, because the down-to-earth cooking leaves<br />
hardly anything to be desired. Whether it's the<br />
classic Wiener Schnitzel, roast duck liver or<br />
Schkölen fish fillet: the kitchen brings everything<br />
to life.<br />
Seeblick 4<br />
+49 (341) 3366608<br />
www.weinbeisserei.de<br />
<br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 17 | 20<br />
Drinks: 19 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
87<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
Steinweg 26<br />
+49 (3445) 7912051<br />
www.gasthof-zufriedenheit.de<br />
Recommended by: Falstaff-Redaktion<br />
80–84<br />
85–89<br />
90–94<br />
95–100 Points<br />
603
Atelier Sanssouci <br />
01445 Radebeul<br />
An oasis for gourmets: hostess Anja Kirsch and<br />
her team pamper their guests at this idyllic location<br />
surrounded by vineyards. Creative chef Konrad<br />
Lange provides sophisticated gastronomic delights,<br />
while sommelier John Piotrowsky ensures<br />
the right wine pairing.<br />
Bärwalde <br />
01471 Radeburg<br />
This Saxon country inn has made a name for itself<br />
far beyond Moritzburg – thanks to Olav Seidel's<br />
ambitious gourmet cooking. Classic French dishes<br />
are served in a cosy atmosphere. Exquisite wines,<br />
also from Baden.<br />
Augustusweg 48<br />
+49 (351) 7956660<br />
www.hotel-villa-sorgenfrei.de<br />
<br />
Gaumenkitzel <br />
Food: 42 | 50<br />
Service: 17 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 10 | 10<br />
87<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
01445 Radebeul<br />
You could hardly have come up with a more beautiful<br />
name for a restaurant. Chef Tilo Hamann really<br />
does succeed in tickling the palates of his<br />
many and happy guests with his Mediterranean-inspired<br />
dishes and vegetarian creations.<br />
Kalkreuther Strasse 10A<br />
+49 (35208) 342901<br />
<br />
Weberstube <br />
Food: 45 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 17 | 20<br />
Ambience: 9 | 10<br />
89<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
02681 Schirgiswalde-<br />
Kirschau<br />
Four restaurants are housed in the hotel ‘Bei<br />
Schumann’: one of these is the ‘Weberstube’,<br />
known for its hearty cuisine. Fresh fish, braised<br />
meats and crispy schnitzel are on the menu while<br />
friendly staff make excellent drinks recommendations.<br />
Coswiger Strasse 23<br />
+49 (351) 79514393<br />
www.gaumenkitzel-radebeul.de<br />
<br />
Zu den Linden <br />
Food: 42 | 50<br />
Service: 17 | 20<br />
Drinks: 17 | 20<br />
Ambience: 9 | 10<br />
85<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
01445 Radebeul<br />
Eating well, simply and heartily and allowing<br />
yourself to be pampered in lovely surroundings:<br />
this smart inn offers just the right setting for classics<br />
like onion soup, beef roulade or Sächsischer<br />
Sauerbraten with homemade dumplings.<br />
Bautzener Strasse 74<br />
+49 (3592) 5200<br />
www.bei-schumann.de<br />
<br />
Zur Grünen Wiese <br />
Food: 44 | 50<br />
Service: 17 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
87<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
01855 Sebnitz<br />
The inn ‘Zur Grünen Wiese’ was built as early as<br />
1839. Today, guests are spoilt in these cosy surroundings<br />
with homely cooking prepared from<br />
seasonal and regional produce. Beautiful beer<br />
garden with separate playground.<br />
Meissner Strasse 64<br />
+49 (351) 8362226<br />
www.zudenlinden.de<br />
Food: 41 | 50<br />
Service: 16 | 20<br />
Drinks: 16 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
Schandauer Strasse 80<br />
+49 (35971) 58794<br />
www.zur-gruenen-wiese.de<br />
Food: 41 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 15 | 20<br />
Ambience: 7 | 10<br />
<br />
81<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
<br />
81<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
604 falstaff<br />
Wine Guide Germany 2021
SPACE FOR YOUR<br />
WINE NOTES<br />
605
Photo: WSNA<br />
WÜRTTEM-<br />
BERG<br />
UNIQUE CULTURAL<br />
LANDSCAPES
The breath-taking view from the Käsbergkanzel<br />
onto the north loop of the river Neckar<br />
TERRACES AND TROLLINGER<br />
ON THE RIVER NECKAR<br />
They are called Käsberg, Wurmberg or Mühlbächer, they have been terraced<br />
for centuries and yet they are hardly known beyond their region.<br />
Yes, we are talking about vineyards on the river Neckar.<br />
We go local in order to get to the bottom of this mystery.<br />
WORDS MATTHIAS NESKE<br />
The Käsbergkanzel, a local peak, is a<br />
fabulous vantage point, offering the<br />
full view of the Neckar-loop. To the<br />
left lies Mundelsheim, embedded in<br />
vineyards, to the right the first houses of<br />
Hessigheim. In between, like an<br />
amphitheatre clinging to the hollowed-out<br />
curve of the riverbank, you can see the<br />
terraces, held in place by countless walls<br />
and only reached by steep steps. This is a<br />
kingdom of manual labour, of viticulture as<br />
bone-breaking work.<br />
“These terraces are planted to Trollinger,<br />
95% of them,” says Karsten Faschian<br />
whose estate lies inside the Neckar loop.<br />
The wines made from them can be found<br />
on the shelves of discount supermarkets for<br />
less than EUR 4.00 a bottle. “This sort of<br />
thing can only work when the winemakers<br />
do not depend on wine income. They<br />
cultivate these terraces on the weekends<br />
while holding down daytime jobs.” Without<br />
these small growers the terraces would no<br />
longer exist. Yet, in years gone by, this had<br />
actually been a successful business model,<br />
explains Friedrich Fink, chairman of the<br />
wine co-operative Lauffen-Mundelsheim.<br />
DIFFERENT GRAPE VARIETIES<br />
Currently, however, more and more elderly<br />
growers have downed their tools –<br />
while price competition on the domestic<br />
608 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WÜRTTEMBERG | A PORTRAIT OF THE REGION<br />
market remains stiff. What is there to be<br />
done? “Plant different grape varieties,”<br />
says Faschian, and that is just what he<br />
did. In cooperation with former top<br />
business manager Herbert Müller, Faschian<br />
bottles full-bodied blends of wellknown<br />
international varieties under the<br />
name of “exNicrum” (= from the river<br />
Neckar).<br />
With their luxurious packaging, Faschian<br />
and Müller want their wines to get listings<br />
in the fine dining sector. Likewise, co-op<br />
members have by now also seen the writing<br />
on the wall and, benefiting from an EUfinanced<br />
project “Steile Weine” (=steep<br />
wines), they have planted Tannat and Nero<br />
d’Avola. “These are climatically more suited<br />
and easier to position on the market than<br />
semi-sweet Trollinger,” Fink says. “But I<br />
also always have to find people who are<br />
willing to make such changes.” Judging by<br />
his facial expression, this is no easy task.<br />
Two other Hessigheim estates have chosen<br />
a completely different path and have<br />
already made waves outside the region.<br />
RESTRUCTURED BUSINESS<br />
Alexander and Eva Eisele left their local<br />
co-op to found their own estate while<br />
Fabian and Sefanie Lassak founded theirs<br />
Karsten Faschian (Weingut Faschian, exNicrum)<br />
grows international grape varieties on his terraced<br />
vineyards instead of Trollinger<br />
completely from scratch. The concept of<br />
both estates is as clear as it is radical:<br />
indigenous grape varieties, organic farming<br />
and a wide diversity of clones for more<br />
resilience in the vineyard. “Additionally,<br />
lower yields and no irrigation,” adds Alex<br />
Eisele. “The old vines root deeply enough.”<br />
Of course, they harvest less: “In a good<br />
year we get 40hl/ha as opposed to the<br />
120hl/ha harvested over there,” Fabian<br />
Lassak says. Both winemakers exude the<br />
Photos: Markus Berner, provided<br />
Fabian Lassak of Weingut Lassak in his<br />
steep sites near Hessigheim: everything<br />
here is harvested by hand<br />
609
Eva and Alexander Eisele have converted<br />
their entire business to organic farming<br />
love they have for their work and how<br />
aware they are of their pioneering status.<br />
“We completely restructured our business,”<br />
Alex Eisele says. “We now have completely<br />
different clientele and of course also<br />
different prices. But if you want to preserve<br />
these terraced, steep vineyard sites, there is<br />
simply no other way.”<br />
A few parcels within the Hessigheim<br />
portion of the Käsbergs already lie fallow.<br />
In their place, however, there are new<br />
plantings in the valley. “Hectarage<br />
transfer” is what Karsten Faschian calls<br />
this, a further piece of the puzzle of this<br />
complex viti-socio-cultural mess. On the<br />
one hand there are subsidies for the manual<br />
labour in those steep slopes, on the other<br />
the EU gives grants – under the banner of<br />
increasing competitiveness – when terraces<br />
are abandoned for more efficient farming<br />
in the flat valley. “That’s just crazy after<br />
200 years of potato farming.”<br />
Growing grapes in the terraced, steep<br />
slopes of the Neckar – is wondrously<br />
beautiful, perplexing, bittersweet.<br />
Preserving this unique cultural landscape<br />
is a mammoth task. That it is absolutely<br />
worth the effort, however, is clear to<br />
anyone who ever stood on the Neckar at<br />
daybreak, watching the first rays of<br />
sunshine move down the slope, from vine<br />
to vine.<br />
INFO<br />
Read more about this author in our Tasting<br />
Panel chapter on page 12.<br />
WÜRTTEMBERG WINE REGION<br />
Growing area<br />
approx. 11,400 hectares<br />
Administrative Split<br />
6 districts (Bereich), 17 collective sites<br />
(Grosslage), 210 single sites (Einzellagen)<br />
Soils<br />
Triassic formations (Keuper, sandstone,<br />
limestone)<br />
Important Grape Varieties<br />
Kerner, Lemberger, Riesling, Rollonger,<br />
Schwarzriesling (aka Pinot Meunier),<br />
Spätburgunder<br />
Verband<br />
Weinbauverband Württemberg e. V.<br />
Hirschbergstrasse 2, 74189 Weinsberg<br />
www.wvwue.de<br />
Photos: Photography was provided<br />
610 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WÜRTTEMBERG | GRANDS CRUS<br />
The Rems Valley near Stuttgart<br />
with a view of the town of Fellbach<br />
GRANDS CRUS – WÜRTTEMBERG<br />
TOP WINES FROM PRIVILEGED SITES OF THE REGION<br />
FELLBACH | LÄMMLER<br />
This site of once just 3ha/7.4 acres has been<br />
extended to 61.3ha/151 acres. It has south and<br />
south-west-facing parcels but also distinctly<br />
less privileged parts facing northwest. The soils<br />
are equally heterogenous: you will find<br />
different Triassic sandstones, coloured marl<br />
and deep, sandy loams. The best parcels are<br />
situated within an amphitheatre that also<br />
benefits from cold air streams originating in<br />
the nearby Schurwald forest at night.<br />
96 2018 Spätburgunder GG<br />
94 2018 Lemberger GG<br />
Weingut Rainer Schnaitmann,<br />
further info on page 652<br />
94 2018 Spätburgunder GG<br />
94 2018 Lemberger GG<br />
Weingut Aldinger,<br />
further info on page 614<br />
94 2018 Spätburgunder GG<br />
93 2018 Lemberger GG<br />
Weingut Heid, further info on page 637<br />
92 2018 Lemberger im Barrique gereift<br />
»Grosses Gewächs«<br />
Fellbacher Weingärtner, www.fellbacher-weine.de<br />
CANNSTATT | ZUCKERLE<br />
A flat foothill and one parcel of 30% incline<br />
are just the prelude to the steep terraces that<br />
cover inclines of up to 60%. The terraces<br />
can also be divided in two parts: the<br />
Zuckerberg on the right Neckar bank facing<br />
southwest and the Mühlhäuser Berg<br />
downriver on the left bank facing southeast.<br />
92 2018 Merlot trocken<br />
Weingut der Stadt Stuttgart , further info on page 656<br />
92 2019 Lemberger trocken<br />
Weingut Frank J. Haller,<br />
weingutfrankjhaller.de<br />
91 2018 Riesling trocken<br />
Weingut der Stadt Stuttgart, further info on page 656<br />
90 2019 Lemberger trocken<br />
Weinbau Steiler Zucker,<br />
www.steiler-zucker.de<br />
611
Heilbronn<br />
Heilbronn<br />
Neipperg<br />
SCHLOSSBERG<br />
Mundelsheim<br />
KÄSBERG<br />
ZUCKERLE<br />
Cannstatt<br />
Fellbach<br />
STUTTGART<br />
LÄMMLER<br />
Selected Grand Cru Sites<br />
Vineyard Area<br />
Villages<br />
MUNDELSHEIM | KÄSBERG<br />
These 14.3ha/35 acres of the Käsbergs are<br />
amongst the warmest sites of Württemberg. Its<br />
south and southeast-facing aspect and its<br />
incline of up to 70% means that that grape<br />
varieties like Trollinger and Spätburgunder are<br />
increasingly replaced by heat-loving varieties<br />
from warmer climes. The soils are of Triassic<br />
limestone with clay and loam that can be up to<br />
2m deep.<br />
90 2018 Spätburgunder GG<br />
90 2018 Syrah trocken<br />
89 2018 Trollinger trocken<br />
Weingut Herzog von Württemberg,<br />
further info on page 664<br />
sandstone are responsible for wines of<br />
incomparable elegance. The different altitudes<br />
(from 230-310m/754-1017ft) allow for scope<br />
when it comes to ripening.<br />
96 2018 Lemberger GG<br />
95 2019 Muskateller Beerenauslese<br />
93 2018 Spätburgunder GG<br />
93 2019 Weissburgunder GG<br />
93 2018 Riesling GG<br />
92 2019 Riesling GG<br />
92 2017 Riesling GG<br />
Weingut Graf Neipperg, further info on page 648<br />
NEIPPERG | SCHLOSSBERG<br />
This 24.5ha/60.5 acre site is not completely<br />
homogenous. It sits atop a plateau of about<br />
310m/1017ft altitude but continues on a<br />
south-facing, terraced slope underneath the<br />
old castle and an extended slope that turns<br />
due west from a fully-south-facing aspect via<br />
two troughs. The best parcels on the plateau,<br />
on the terraces and on the midslope, are<br />
without a doubt among the best sites of the<br />
region. The soils of weathered Triassic<br />
Cannstatter Zuckerle – the Swabian diminutive<br />
(Zuckerle is the diminutive of sugar) makes for<br />
happy, if cumbersome, harvests on its steep slope<br />
612 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Württemberg | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT GRAF ADELMANN<br />
Burg Schaubeck, 71711 Steinheim-Kleinbottwar<br />
T: +49 (7148) 921220, weingut@graf-adelmann.com<br />
www.graf-adelmann.com<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–12 hrs and<br />
14–18 hrs, Saturdays 9–13 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Ruben Röder<br />
Contact: Felix Graf Adelmann<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 120,000 (35 % white, 65 % red)/21 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
Chapeau! Felix Graf Adelmann and Ruben<br />
Röder have worked hard to bring<br />
this longstanding estate in Kleinbottwar<br />
to contemporary standards and have done a<br />
thoroughly good job. The wines presented were<br />
convincing throughout, from the bottom up.<br />
The estate Lemberger already shows everything<br />
that we love about this variety: spiciness, body,<br />
juicy elegance. The “Schwarze Löwe” presents<br />
all this in a much nobler, finer fashion, with even<br />
more depth and yet is equally unpretentious.<br />
The white wines too are of that same standard<br />
and spur our gastronomic imagination. We congratulate<br />
them for the well-deserved fourth star!<br />
93 2019 »Die Mauern von Schaubeck<br />
H.A.D.E.S« trocken WB/PG/RR<br />
Citrus fruit aromas with a Riesling-like fresh breeze. Poised<br />
and silky on the palate, delicate phenolics, lots of texture,<br />
the fine, rather Pinot-like acidity gives the poised structural<br />
support and power. Animating tactile minerality, spicy finish.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
density on the palate, a rich dose of tannins embedded in a<br />
smooth, almost oily background. Mild acidity, dark berry<br />
aromas on the finish. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2019 Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
92 2019 Kleinbottwar Lichtenberg<br />
Weissburgunder Erste Lage trocken<br />
Subtly floral on the nose, spring meadows, a hint of wood and<br />
nuanced berry fruit gaining more herbaceous notes with air<br />
contact. Supple on the palate, strong alcohol, substantial<br />
and fresh, dense and with pronounced fruit. Combines power<br />
and complexity. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
94 2017 »Der Schwarze Löwe« Kleinbottwar<br />
Oberer Berg Lemberger GG<br />
A fresh, complex cherry fruit scent with ethereal herbal<br />
notes and the use of wood that only very gently underlines<br />
the fruit. Generous on the palate, a rich dose of fine-grained<br />
tannins, distinct tactile minerality on the mid-palate and<br />
seamlessly integrated acidity. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2018 »Carpe Diem H.A.D.E.S« tr. ME/CD<br />
Blackcurrant, sour cherry, beetroot juice, blackberry and<br />
slightly smoky wood notes, pepper and cedar too. Great<br />
91 2018 Lemberger trocken<br />
Peppery, almond, apple, wild cherry, cherry stone and a<br />
hint of juniper. On the palate very complete, medium<br />
weight, fine but also grippy tannins and juicy fruit. A very<br />
elegant red that gives a high-quality expression to the varietal<br />
style. 12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
613
WEINGUT ALDINGER<br />
Schmerstrasse 25, 70734 Fellbach<br />
T: +49 (711) 581417, info@weingut-aldinger.de<br />
www.weingut-aldinger.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–12 hrs and<br />
14–18 hrs, Saturdays 9–13 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Matthias Aldinger<br />
Contact: Maik Hildebrand<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 250,000 (60 % white, 40 % red)/30 ha<br />
Ah well,” someone exclaimed at our editorial<br />
offices after the first sip of sparkling<br />
wine. “These guys just know<br />
what they are doing…” No matter whether<br />
red, white, rosé, dry or sweet, in a new barrique<br />
or a concrete egg, made with or without addition<br />
of sulphur dioxide, the wines of the Aldinger<br />
brothers leave nothing to be desired.<br />
The entire red portfolio is pervaded by a fine<br />
nerve of freshness that not even the hot vintage<br />
of 2018 managed to deter. The whites altogether<br />
need more bottle age, but the Chardonnay<br />
“Reserve” tenderly points into the direction of<br />
what is possible for this variety in this country.<br />
95 2018 »Reserve« Chardonnay trocken<br />
Freshly opened and a slight reductive nose with roasted notes,<br />
needs more air contact. Great tension on the palate, integrated<br />
cedar, apple, almond, fennel and anise nuances with acidic<br />
power and yet very elegant. Burgundy comparisons can be annoying,<br />
here they are appropriate. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
94 2018 »Ovum« Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Ovum indicates (partial) ageing in a concrete egg, but the nose<br />
is dominated by barrique notes. No Sauvignon grassy notes<br />
whatsoever, on the contrary - quite ripe notes. On the palate,<br />
the aromas remain subtle, the wine amazes with a calm elegance,<br />
immensely harmonious. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
94 Fellbach Lämmler Lemberger GG 2018<br />
Dark purple hues in the glass. Ripe and dense blackberry, a<br />
hint of black mulberry. On the palate there is beautifully lively<br />
fruit, matured perfectly with a superior composition. One<br />
could assume that this could even take twenty years of barrel<br />
maturation. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
94 Fellbach Lämmler Spätburgunder GG 2018<br />
Scents of animal nuances, needs a little more air contact and<br />
patience before plum, black cherry and elderberry jelly aromas<br />
emerge. On the palate, simultaneously pithy, elegant<br />
and with a cool ripeness that seems contradictory, but is simply<br />
celebrated perfectly. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
94 2013 »Aldinger« brut nature<br />
93 2019 Untertürkheim Gips Marienglass<br />
Riesling GG<br />
92 Untertürkheim Gips Marienglass<br />
Weissburgunder GG 2018<br />
92 2018 Untertürkheim Gips Marienglass<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
92 2015 »GJA Reserve« trocken ME/CS/CF<br />
90 2018 »Sine« Trollinger trocken<br />
92 2019 Uhlbach Götzenberg<br />
Riesling Kabinett<br />
91 2018 »Reserve« Spätburgunder<br />
Rosé trocken<br />
Barrique-matured rosé . Salmon-coloured in the glass with<br />
slight lactic woody notes on the nose. On the palate, it has<br />
tremendous substance and density for a rosé, and can<br />
clearly pass as a high-quality white wine in blind tasting,<br />
but with a fiery spiciness on the finish. 12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
614 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Württemberg | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT JOHANNES B.<br />
Höhe 1, 70736 Fellbach<br />
T: +49 (711) 534128, info@weingut-johannesb.de<br />
www.weingut-johannesb.de<br />
Cellar Door: Wednesdays and Fridays 16–19 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–14 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Johannes Bauerle<br />
Contact: Johannes Bauerle<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 80,000 (50 % white, 50 % red)/22 ha<br />
The very first reaction of the tasting team<br />
– had this been possible – would have<br />
been to fire up the barbecue and grill a<br />
decent slice of beef steak. Such was the sentiment<br />
when confronted with the opaque and<br />
spice-scented “Dicke B” in our glasses. Described<br />
as very animating and masculine, this<br />
blend has turned out extemely well for winemaker<br />
Johannes Bauerle. Just like his elegant<br />
“BB”. This time round, the reds just about<br />
trump the whites, which nonetheless stride confidently.<br />
The Riesling “Plan B” is lively, the Sauvignon<br />
Blanc “Partie Fumé” connects Swabian<br />
provenance with international style. Well done!<br />
89 2019 »Plan B« Riesling trocken<br />
Flows densely into the glass, fine elegant scent of Mediterranean<br />
herbs like sage and rosemary, followed by peach and<br />
yellow plums. A bit fresher on the palate with pronounced<br />
acidity, very stimulating. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
88 2019 »Berg & Tal« Weissburgunder trocken<br />
89 2019 »Mergel & Keuper«<br />
Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
Pale straw yellow colour in the glass. A light herbal scent<br />
with hints of mirabelle plums, pear, hay and a touch of vanilla.<br />
On the palate there is good substance which shows a stimulating<br />
creaminess with nice, uncomplicated freshness and<br />
a good finish. Pairs well with food. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
91 2018 »Dickes B« trocken CS/BF<br />
Flows dark red opaque into the glass. On the nose blueberries,<br />
forest floor, also dark spices. On the palate tight and<br />
juicy at the same time, very stimulating, bold and also animalistic.<br />
An ample mouthful of wine, perfect with a grilled<br />
beef steak. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2018 »BB« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Beautiful ruby colour shimmers in the glass with the delicate<br />
scent of red berries, cherries, cinnamon and plums. Round,<br />
juicy, dense and long on the palate with a balanced and cool<br />
acidity. Pinot Noir with profile that can be enjoyed on its own<br />
or to accompany food. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 »Partie Fumé« Sauvignon Blanc tr.<br />
Very fragrant wine with notes of cassis, mown grass, lime<br />
zest, fine smoke, and also ground elder and elderberry<br />
stems. Compact and firmly-built on the palate, balanced<br />
acidity, creamy, dense and harmonious. A long finish with a<br />
fresh hay scent. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
615
WEINGUT DR. BAUMANN<br />
Am Ordensschloss 15–21, 74182 Obersulm<br />
T: +49 (7130) 47 44 0, info@weingut-dr-baumann.de<br />
weingut-dr-baumann.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–12 hrs and<br />
13–17 hrs, Saturdays 9–13 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Tanja Baumann, Markus Kehrer<br />
Contact: Tanja Baumann<br />
Hectares: 40 ha<br />
The wines made by this well-versed winemaking<br />
duo Tanja Baumann and<br />
Markus Kehrer are characterised by<br />
their skilful maturation in wood and their ageing<br />
potential. This is illustrated particularly<br />
well by the reds from the 2015 and 2016 vintages,<br />
like the powerful and spicy Lemberger,<br />
the savoury Cabernet-blend and the serious<br />
Trollinger. Right now they outshine the whites<br />
which are quite something themselves. The<br />
charming Gelber Muskateller is as clear as a<br />
bell, both Eisweins are exquisite, as is the sophisticated,<br />
barrique-aged “Reserve” and its<br />
counterpart made in stainless steel.<br />
91 »Impuls« brut nature<br />
Chardonnay, Schwariesling and Pinot Noir form the “Impulse”,<br />
which has spicy scents of ripe fruit and brioche. Lean on the<br />
palate, but with aromatic, spicy intensity, which accentuates<br />
the silky, dry and pleasant texture. Good complexity.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2015 Lemberger trocken im Barrique gereift<br />
On the nose, juniper berry, blackberry, wood, chocolate and<br />
blood orange. On the palate powerful, full-bodied, spicy and<br />
also soft, good substance and good volume. A Lemberger<br />
that shows varietal typicity and individuality. Great with<br />
game dishes. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2018 »Reserve« Riesling Eiswein<br />
im Barrique gereift<br />
Honey yellow hues. On the nose smoke, toast, a little after aeration<br />
dried fruit, honey and spice notes emerge. On the palate<br />
fine sweetness-acidity interplay, well-balanced with a well-integrated<br />
wood barrel aroma and fine phenolics accentuated<br />
by honey spice, passion fruit and dried apricot nuances. Good<br />
length and structure, potential. 9 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
92 2018 »Reserve« Riesling Eiswein<br />
Honey yellow hues. Intense, spicy dried fruit, passion fruit,<br />
candied orange peel and dried apricot scents. On the palate<br />
lots of texture, good sweetness-acidity interplay, dried fruit<br />
and preserved lime nuances, fine tension and a chiselled<br />
structure. An ideal accompaniment to desserts. Good length<br />
and good potential! 9 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
89 2017 »Corpus« Weissburgunder trocken<br />
89 2018 Riesling trocken<br />
88 2017 Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
90 2016 »Corpus« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
90 2016 »Cuvée Cabernet« tr. CS/CU/CI/CC<br />
90 2016 Merlot trocken<br />
89 2016 Trollinger trocken<br />
90 2019 Gelber Muskateller halbtrocken<br />
Intense fruity nose with ample gooseberry, mango and elderflower<br />
notes. Slenderly-built and with invigorating acidity,<br />
nice interplay of sweetness and freshness. An animating<br />
wine that beautifully highlights its defined fruit. A great<br />
aperitif and pairs well with food. 11,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
616 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Württemberg | WINERIES<br />
<br />
PANORAMAWEINGUT<br />
BAUMGÄRTNER<br />
An der Steige 94, 74343 Hohenhaslach<br />
T: +49 (7147) 6298, info@panoramaweingut.de<br />
www.panoramaweingut.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Saturdays 8–12 hrs and<br />
13–18 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Reinhard Baumgärtner<br />
Contact: Reinhard Baumgärtner<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 80,000 (30 % white, 70 % red)/13 ha<br />
The panoramic view from the terrace of<br />
this winery in Hohenhaslach indeed<br />
offers splendid views across vineyards,<br />
fields and forests which is an awe-inspiring<br />
sight. The wines presented by Reinhard<br />
and Josua Baumgärtner for tasting this<br />
year were just as diverse. The spectrum ranges<br />
from a tropically yellow “Madeus B.” to a<br />
varietally-typical Trollinger which disappears<br />
from the glass far too quickly. All the<br />
wines have a beautiful presence of fruit and a<br />
very smooth, polished flow – some of the<br />
wines, however, could be a little more edgy.<br />
90 2018 »Madeus B.« trocken CH/RR/KR/PG<br />
White blend, the main part Chardonnay, followed by Riesling,<br />
Pinot Gris and Kerner. Ripe, yellow nose with tropical hints of<br />
pineapple, quince and a dash of cinnamon; as colourful as<br />
the spectrum of grape varieties. Ripe on the palate, viscous<br />
and yellow-fruit nuances with a lot of texture and spiciness.<br />
13 Vol.-%. glass, €€<br />
88 2018 »M&M Cuvée« Malbec Merlot trocken<br />
89 2018 Hohenhaslach Kirchberg Riesling tr.<br />
Lemon zest, yellow pear and linden blossom on the nose.<br />
Dense and ripe matter, with a certain viscosity, yet also with<br />
green aromas of lime and angelica. These two souls still<br />
have to intermingle a little bit more. 13 Vol.-%. glass, €€€<br />
89 2017 Hohenhaslach Kirchberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Intensely fragrant with raspberry and cherry-fruits and<br />
smoky nuances, clearly recognisable as a German varietal.<br />
Very slight lactic notes on the palate, fine wood and a very<br />
smooth flow with additional wild strawberry and juniper<br />
notes and restrained spiciness. 13 Vol.-%. glass, €€€<br />
89 2017 »Mergelkies« Syrah trocken<br />
Intense berry notes, black pepper and lots of clove hints on<br />
the nose. On the palate, great fruit density with a medium<br />
body and a salty touch. Not a typical broad, overripe example,<br />
but extremely fruit-driven. 12,5 Vol.-%. glass, €€<br />
89 2018 »Bunter Mergel« Trollinger trocken<br />
Light coloured in the glass. Fresh scents of strawberry, red<br />
plum and mint. Very calm on the palate, no aggressiveness,<br />
nor too bold. Beautiful fruit and fine tannins. Well done for<br />
the hot vintage, an ideal picnic wine.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
617
GRAF VON BENTZEL-STURMFEDER<br />
Sturmfederstrasse 4, 74360 Schozach<br />
T: +49 (7133) 960894, weingut@sturmfeder.de<br />
www.sturmfeder.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–17 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–14 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Holger Matz<br />
Contact: Holger Matz<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 100,000 (30 % white, 70 % red)/13 ha<br />
The estate of Kilian Graf von Bentzel-Sturmfeder<br />
offers large helpings of<br />
Württemberg wine history. Founded in<br />
1396 by the noble Killian Graf von Friedrich<br />
Sturmfeder, this winery at the foot of the Schozacher<br />
Roter Berg looks back on more than<br />
620 years of viticulture. The Schozacher Roter<br />
Berg site with its heavy loam and Keuper<br />
(marl) soils is a monopole. It brings forth<br />
wines of structure and potential – but this year,<br />
sadly, only the Riesling from this site was presented.<br />
This wine, in spite of its restrained nature,<br />
should not be underestimated.<br />
91 2018 Schozach Roter Berg Riesling GG<br />
Subtle scents of meadow herbs, light hawthorn and absence<br />
of any distinct overpowering primary fruit aromas. White<br />
pepper on the palate, also here restrained fruit notes with<br />
more emphasis on the substance. A really dry wine with noticeable<br />
strength, requiring a good food accompaniment.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
medium-bodied wine and kept in the rather smoky old<br />
German style. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
88 2018 Sauvignon Blanc *** trocken<br />
89 2017 Sauvignon Blanc brut nature<br />
On the nose typical for the variety, with scents of gooseberry<br />
and cassis. On the palate, nice mousse, very ripe<br />
with pronounced fruit notes like white currants. Not really<br />
lively, but with a baroque-like structure and rococo<br />
fruit. It will encourage creativity in the kitchen.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
88 2018 »Grande Etoile« trocken<br />
Intense yellow colour. Nose clearly marked by wood and a<br />
hint of delicate vanilla. On the palate coconut macaroons,<br />
hints of lactic notes, followed by fine fruit of pineapple and<br />
pear, but a little bit too alcohol-influence in the finish. Difficult<br />
at the moment, wait and see. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
88 2017 Spätburgunder *** trocken<br />
Almost a little bit washed out in colour. Scents of dried fig,<br />
strawberry, clove and quite noticeable alcohol. On the palate<br />
enormous spiciness, lots of pepper and elderberry notes. A<br />
90 2017 Cabernet Dorsa trocken<br />
Deep purple hues in the glass. Black berry fruit scents on<br />
the nose, along with bay leaf and juniper. On the palate, the<br />
wine impresses with its very calm flow. More fruit than<br />
spice with blackcurrant jelly and blackberry nuances and a<br />
well-captured ripeness. 13 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
618 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT BORTH<br />
Württemberg | WINERIES<br />
Unterheimbacherstrasse 35, 74626 Bretzfeld<br />
T: +49 (7946) 2139, info@weingut-borth.de<br />
www.weingut-borth.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Michael Borth<br />
Contact: Michael Borth<br />
Hectares: 7 ha<br />
Weingut Borth is located in the village<br />
of Adolzfurt in the idyllic Brettach<br />
valley. Founded in 1977 it<br />
grew out of a little country inn. Currently, Michael<br />
Borth farms 7 hectares of vines and grows<br />
Cabernet Cubin, Auxerrois and Muskat-Trollinger<br />
next to the more classic vareities of Riesling,<br />
Grauburgunder, Spätburgunder or Lemberger.<br />
Borth eschews all sorts of experimentation<br />
when it comes to making his fairly-priced<br />
wines. The very clear-cut Riesling “MG” stands<br />
out. The family also runs a lovely rustic Weinstube<br />
where Hohenlohe specialities like roasts<br />
or Schälripple (cured pork ribs) are served.<br />
90 2018 »MG« Riesling trocken<br />
Strong yellow appearance. Scents of fir tree honey, ripe stone<br />
fruit, apricot tart and caramelised almonds. Dry and clearly<br />
defined on the palate, not too broad with ripe acidity. Generous<br />
but also clearly defined, a Riesling with good perspectives.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2018 Muskat-Trollinger trocken<br />
Intense aromas of blade of mace and elderberry fruit. Fruity<br />
with lively tannins on the palate, gripping but not too rustic.<br />
A wine with regional character that is welcome at any barbecue<br />
and also with vegetarian delights. Slender and simultaneously<br />
memorable. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
88 2018 Grauburgunder mit Auxerrois<br />
Spätlese trocken<br />
88 2019 Adolzfurt Schneckenhof<br />
Weissburgunder Spätlese trocken<br />
Intense aroma of white and yellow flowers, ripe apricot and<br />
also a hint of marzipan. Full-bodied on the palate with good<br />
volume, the noticeable sweetness blends well into the<br />
breadth. Typical Spätlese character, generous and perfect<br />
for gastronomic purposes. 12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2018 »Cuvée 07« trocken<br />
Powerfully-composed blend of Lemberger, Pinot Noir and<br />
Cabernet Cubin, also intense scents of dark fruit and spices,<br />
freshly crushed juniper berry and smoke. Good volume and<br />
also power, medium density and good length. Ageing potential.<br />
14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2018 Lemberger trocken<br />
Strong blackberry fruit on the nose, followed by tobacco,<br />
juniper berry, forest floor and smoky notes. On the palate<br />
there is clear fruit, blackberry and black cherry, strong<br />
contours, pervaded by fine acidity. Medium complexity, value<br />
for money. 13,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
619
WEINGUT BRUKER<br />
Kleinaspacher Strasse 18, 71723 Grossbottwar<br />
T: +49 (7148) 921050, info@weingut-bruker.de<br />
www.weingut-bruker.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Saturdays 15–18 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Markus Bruker<br />
Contact: Markus Bruker<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 100,000 (40 % white, 60 % red)/12 ha<br />
Organic winemaker Markus Bruker did<br />
not only give a new label design to his<br />
wines, no he also made sure their inner<br />
qualities were newly up to scratch. They are<br />
characterised by savouriness and freshness<br />
and are very enjoyable – this is not an unimportant<br />
factor for Bruker whose family runs<br />
a superior hotel and restaurant in Grossbottwar.<br />
We especially liked his Chardonnay<br />
“Oberstenfeld” with its firm core and grippy<br />
structure. The Riesling Spätlese “Rotkeuper”<br />
is also really beautiful – and would be just perfect<br />
with an apple tart.<br />
90 2019 Oberstenfeld Chardonnay trocken<br />
Clear yellow. On the nose some honeydew melon, delicate<br />
smoke nuances, ripe peach and a whiff of vanilla. On the palate<br />
luscious fruits with ample power and structure and rather<br />
restrained acidity; coherently-built, firm core and good<br />
length. Pairs well with food. 14 Vol.-%. DIAM, €€<br />
88 2019 Muskattrollinger Rosé trocken<br />
89 2019 Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Pale honey yellow in appearance with scents of lime zest,<br />
blackcurrant plus some herbal spice; piquant. On the palate<br />
clear fruit, citrus, blackcurrant accentuated by power and<br />
structure with well-integrated ripe acidity and restrained residual<br />
sweetness. Good length. 14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 Gelber Muskateller trocken<br />
Clear, light yellow. On the nose scents of freshly crushed<br />
grapes, followed by nutmeg and elderflower; fresh. On the<br />
palate lime juice, spiciness with lively acidity, in good harmony,<br />
medium length. Ideal as an aperitif. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
Delicate honey yellow. Rich scents of almond, ripe pear and<br />
peach notes. Textural onset of ripe fruit with almond nuances,<br />
well-integrated, rather restrained acidity and a good<br />
length. Pinot Gris with traction and power. Ideal with white<br />
meat and mushroom dishes. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2019 »Rotkeuper« Grossbottwar<br />
Riesling Spätlese<br />
Clear honey yellow. Scents of ripe citrus fruit, passion fruit,<br />
some crushed rock and mineral hints. On the palate clear<br />
fruit, ripe peach, red grapefruit and a nice interplay between<br />
acidity and noticeable sweetness. Offers good balance<br />
and length with apparent freshness. Ideal with apple<br />
tart. 7,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
620 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Württemberg | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGÄRTNER<br />
CLEEBRONN & GÜGLINGEN<br />
Ranspacher Strasse 1, 74389 Cleebronn<br />
T: +49 (7135) 98030, info@cleebronner-winzer.de<br />
www.cleebronner-winzer.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 8.30–13 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Andreas Reichert<br />
Contact: Axel Gerst<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 1,900,000 (30 % white, 70 % red)/270 ha<br />
The 500 or so members who got together<br />
in the Weingärtnerei Cleebronn &<br />
Güglingen cooperative have always<br />
been ambitious. This co-op is among the best<br />
and the wines presented this year prove it yet<br />
again. Next to classic varieties like Riesling<br />
and Lemberger they also grow varieties that<br />
are at home in France – and the results are<br />
quite respectable. We were especially impressed<br />
by the full-bodied premium wine<br />
“Roter Hirsch” which unites Lemberger, Merlot,<br />
Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon<br />
into a powerful, spicy red blend.<br />
89 2018 »Emotion CG« Riesling trocken<br />
Rich, clear yellow. On the nose ripe citrus fruit, plus stone<br />
fruit, peach and some crushed rock. On the palate rather restrained<br />
acidity, grapefruit, green apple, lime juice and some<br />
passion fruit. Firm, medium length, ideally paired with hearty<br />
food. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2017 »Emotion CG« Lemberger trocken<br />
Rich cherry red. On the nose sour cherry, blackberry, sloe and<br />
spice. On the palate luscious fruit, cherry, elderberry juice<br />
followed by spiciness, lively acidity and well-defined fine tannins.<br />
It has medium structure and is well-balanced, animating<br />
with a good length. Enjoyable! 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2018 »Emotion CG« Weissburgunder<br />
trocken<br />
91 2017 »Roter Hirsch Cuvée Reserve«<br />
trocken ME/CS/CF/BF<br />
Deep dark red. Blackberry, blackcurrant, dark chocolate and<br />
herbal spice aromas. On the palate rich, ripe tannins with a<br />
lively acidity, supported by dark fruit, peppery plum, cherry,<br />
redcurrant leaf. Shows traction and texture, good length.<br />
Good potential. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2017 »Emotion CG Reserve«<br />
Lemberger trocken<br />
Rich cherry red. On the nose dark fruit of the forest, ripe cherry,<br />
some smoke nuances, coffee and hints of pickled plum. On<br />
the palate ripe acidity, well-integrated tannins, solid structure,<br />
lots of red fruit, cherry and blackberry. Good length,<br />
pairs well with red meat. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
89 2018 »Emotion CG«<br />
Chardonnay & Viognier trocken<br />
Clear honey yellow. Scents of flower meadows, some rose,<br />
blossom honey, also smoke and a hint of vanilla; expansive.<br />
Fresh acidity on the palate, re-emerging delicate floral nuances,<br />
then citrus, rose, and apricot. Medium structure and<br />
length, very aromatic blend. 13,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
621
WEINGUT DAUTEL<br />
Lauerweg 55, 74357 Bönnigheim<br />
T: +49 (7143) 870326, info@weingut-dautel.de<br />
www.weingut-dautel.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 10–12 hrs and<br />
14–18 hrs, Saturdays 10–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Christian Dautel<br />
Contact: Christian Dautel<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 100,000 (50 % white, 50 % red)/14 ha<br />
Christian Dautel yet again presents a<br />
most convincing range of wines that<br />
covers a broad spectrum: from a mineral<br />
Spätburgunder-GG, via Riesling to his substantial<br />
whites in the “S” series and a bone-dry,<br />
floral Sekt. Christian Dautel is one of the few<br />
independent winemakers (i.e. not affiliated to<br />
a cooperative) who owns parcels in the terraced<br />
steep sites along the river Neckar. Our<br />
Falstaff tip thus also is a plea for the preservation<br />
of this unique cultural landscape. Those<br />
looking for more density will love the Steingrüben-GG.<br />
93 2019 Bönnigheim Steingrüben<br />
Riesling GG<br />
Beautifully vivid yet supple scents of orange zest, bergamot<br />
and some linden blossom. Dense on the palate, perfect<br />
sweetness-acidity tension, not at all overwrought and with<br />
the necessary spicy extract for the future development.<br />
Good prospects for maturation. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
with wonderful mineral freshness and will continue to develop.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 Weissburgunder S trocken 2018<br />
92 2018 »S« Chardonnay trocken<br />
A little more grippy on the nose than the Pinot Blanc with<br />
scents of walnut shell, fennel and well-integrated wood.<br />
Very dense, ripe, viscous matter on the palate, reflecting the<br />
vintage but not letting the wine lose its structure. Mâconnais<br />
style. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2016 »Pinot« brut nature<br />
Extremely restrained, floral nose. Good mousse, very taut on<br />
the palate, even a light tannic grip, with some red berry impression.<br />
Completely unpretentious, aromatically-subtle. It<br />
could perhaps have needed a little longer yeast age complexity.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
93 2017 Oberstenfeld Forstberg<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Fragrant nose, sweet cherry, some rose and a hint of cloves.<br />
Medium-bodied on the palate, elegantly composed, with vivid<br />
fruit. Currently still on the slightly spicy side, already scores<br />
90 2019 Besigheim Wurmberg Riesling tr.<br />
Wonderfully zesty fruit from lemon zest to pear and walnut<br />
on the nose. On the palate, the wine from a terraced<br />
steep slope is quite grippy and medium-bodied. Mustard<br />
flour and coriander seed nuances merge with the fruit<br />
notes. 12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
622 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT EHRMANN<br />
Württemberg | WINERIES<br />
Feldertor 21, 97990 Weikersheim<br />
T: +49 (7934) 2599820, winzerpaar@ehrmann-weine.de<br />
www.ehrmann-weine.de<br />
Cellar Door: Tuesdays and Thursdays 17–19 hrs<br />
and by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Miriam and Alexander Ehrmann<br />
Contact: Miriam and Alexander Ehrmann<br />
Hectares: 1 ha<br />
It was not until March 2020 that winemaking<br />
couple Miriam and Alexander Ehrmann<br />
opened their winery in Weikersheim,<br />
in the Württenberg part of the Tauber<br />
valley – until then they had always delivered<br />
their grapes to the local co-op. That however,<br />
they report, is no longer good enough. They are<br />
setting a fresh, determined course and their aim<br />
is to make “handmade wines” with attention to<br />
detail, a clear signature and in tune with nature.<br />
Thus they presented a Grauburgunder with the<br />
fitting name “Der Individuelle.”A most promising<br />
debut in our guide – we look forward to<br />
following the progress in Tauber valley!<br />
91 2019 »Der Individuelle« Weikersheimer<br />
Karlsberg Grauburgunder trocken<br />
Fragrance of cool smoke, pear along with apple peel and yellow<br />
floral notes. Juicy and powerfully-structured on the palate,<br />
spicy and also notes of white pepper with the ripe acidity<br />
lending suppleness flanked by a vivid phenolic grip. A gastronomic<br />
Pinot style. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
raspberry. On the palate there is clear fruit and juice, good<br />
balance with finely-extracted tannins that harmonise well<br />
with the subtle sweetness. A mood enhancer for al fresco<br />
evenings! 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 Weikersheim Karlsberg<br />
Grauburgunder trocken<br />
Clear aromas on the nose, pear, yellow apple, apricot and<br />
some lemongrass with hints of bay leaf. Smooth with texture<br />
and clear fruit on the palate, powerful but with a defined outline.<br />
Vinified dry, a gastronomically versatile Pinot Gris.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
88 2019 Schäftersheim Klosterberg<br />
Müller-Thurgau trocken<br />
On the nose still slightly yeasty, apple peel, stone fruit and<br />
also garden herbs. On the palate there is good freshness and<br />
spiciness, also pepper, juiciness, fruity notes but also with a<br />
phenolic touch that provides some complexity. Artisanal<br />
Müller-Thurgau. 12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
88 2019 Schäftersheim Klosterberg<br />
Tauberschwarz Rosé trocken<br />
Blackcurrants on the fragrant nose merged with cherry and<br />
90 2019 Weikersheim Karlsberg<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Apple, stone fruit, cider notes and yellow flower aromas.<br />
On the palate medium-bodied and vertically-built, quite<br />
complex with a layer of powerful phenolics, some malty<br />
notes with lively and composed acidity. Wine with style and<br />
character. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
623
WEINGUT EISSELE<br />
Grundäcker 10, 71394 Kernen im Remstal<br />
T: +49 (7151) 42163, info@eissele-weingut.de<br />
www.eissele-weingut.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Jochen Eissele<br />
Contact: Jochen Eissele<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 60,000 (50 % white, 50 % red)/8 ha<br />
Weingut Eissele farms eight hectares<br />
of vines in the Rems valley, in the<br />
villages of Stetten and Strümpfelbach.<br />
The vines grow on heavy and loam-rich-<br />
Keuper- and sandstone soils and traditional<br />
varieties like Riesling and Trollinger are joined<br />
by Zweigelt, Lemberger, Merlot, Pinot-varieties,<br />
Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. “It is<br />
our aim to recognise the idiosyncrasies and<br />
personalities of these varieties and to tend<br />
them with understanding and devotion,”<br />
Jochen Eissele reports. It is the “Passion” series<br />
in particuler that shows his approach. The<br />
wines are very balanced. Well done!<br />
90 2019 »Passion« Riesling trocken<br />
Harmonious aroma, ripe citrus fruit, orange blossom, fine<br />
herbal spice and grip. Juicy and mouth-watering on the palate,<br />
fresh with a straight, citric acid structure and nuances of<br />
fresh orange, apple and some citrus zest. Animating, juicy<br />
and lively. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
87 2019 »Neo« Rosé trocken<br />
89 2019 »Passion« Chardonnay trocken<br />
Luscious balance of freshness and liveliness with notes of<br />
honeydew melon, pear, citrus fruit and hints of nuts. On the<br />
palate fine fruit sweetness, citrus freshness, juiciness and<br />
nuances of melon, green apple and ripe lemon embraced by<br />
lively acidity.. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2018 »Passion« Stetten Zweigelt trocken<br />
Dense bouquet with notes of black cherry, plum, violet nuances<br />
and a hint of vanilla offering depth and fine spiciness.<br />
Integrated palate with citrusy notes, taut acidity and finegrained<br />
tannins, accentuated by sour cherry and herbaceous<br />
spice. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2018 »Passion« Stetten Spätburgunder tr.<br />
Luscious scents of spice, dark cherry fruit, a hint of wild raspberry<br />
and some hay. Surprisingly light on the palate in comparison<br />
with the nose, showing relatively little body. However,<br />
astringent with some green acidity and notes of sour cherry.<br />
Needs time. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 »Passion« Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Depth and rich fruit scents offering freshness with white<br />
currant, green pepper, stone and hints of smoke. Compactly<br />
built on the palate, avoiding all that is opulent, animatingly-juicy<br />
and wel- interwoven with fine spice and a fresh<br />
acidic structure. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
624 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT EISELE<br />
Württemberg | WINERIES<br />
Steinbeisweg 1, 74394 Hessigheim<br />
T: +49 (7143) 272399, info@weingut-eisele.de<br />
www.weingut-eisele.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Alexander Eisele<br />
Contact: Alexander Eisele<br />
Hectares: 9 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
Eva and Alexander Eisele tread their<br />
own and courageous path in Hessigheim,<br />
dominated as it is by its cooperative<br />
wine culture. They took their estate<br />
over in 2016 and now cultivate nine hectares<br />
of vines of which about two thirds are in the<br />
terraced steep sites of Triassic limestone. Since<br />
2017, the estate has been certified organic by<br />
Bioland. The wines are fermented spontaneously,<br />
spend an extended time on their gross<br />
lees, are only given minimal sulphur dioxide<br />
and are labelled as Landwein. A most individual<br />
collection with a wonderfully-bundled<br />
Riesling and the red blend “Adam” at its top.<br />
92 2018 »S-line« Riesling trocken<br />
Scents of citrus fruit, amalfi lemon, apple, meadow herbs<br />
and ripe stone fruit. Well-bundled on the palate with traction<br />
and tension, also juicy texture and a layer of slightly tart phenolics<br />
provides grip and spice with seamlessly-integrated<br />
acidity. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2018 »S-line« Chardonnay trocken<br />
Lingering notes from the long fermentation, a slightly ethereal<br />
tone that gradually diminishes followed by ripe passion<br />
fruit, pear and citrus fruit with wood-ageing nuances. Powerful<br />
and firmly-built on the palate with good density, extract<br />
and texture. Ageing potential. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2018 »Eva S-line« trocken CH/WB<br />
89 2018 »Edition« Weissburgunder trocken<br />
90 2018 »S-line« Merlot trocken<br />
90 2018 »S-line« Lemberger trocken<br />
90 2018 »Edition« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
90 2018 »Edition« Lemberger trocken<br />
90 2018 »Edition« Zweigelt trocken<br />
92 2018 »Adam S-line« trocken ME/CF/CS<br />
Blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, an<br />
obvious Cabernet scent marked by cassis, some bell pepper<br />
and lots of spice. Very clear fruit expression, powerful with<br />
smooth tannins and good density. Good length and potential.<br />
14 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2018 »S-line« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Clear and defined fruit, spicy cherry notes, juniper berry as<br />
well as hints of smoke. Solid and compact on the palate with<br />
a lot of precision and traction with nicely-expressed fruit and<br />
finely-chiselled acidity that propels the composition forward.<br />
A unique style. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2018 »Edition« Trollinger trocken<br />
Initial herbaceous scents, rosemary, cherry, almond shell<br />
and toasted aromas. Tightly-contoured on the palate,<br />
compact and lean, clear fruit, dry and kitsch-free, with<br />
traction and tension. The wood is well-integrated with fine<br />
acidity. A good Trollinger example. 12 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
625
WEINGUT BERNHARD ELLWANGER<br />
Rebenstrasse 9, 71384 Weinstadt-Grossheppach<br />
T: +49 (7151) 62131, info@weingut-ellwanger.com<br />
www.weingut-ellwanger.com<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, Fridays<br />
10–12 hrs and 14–18.30 hrs, Saturdays 9.30–14 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Sven Ellwanger<br />
Contact: Yvonne Ellwanger<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 230,000 (40 % white, 60 % red)/32 ha<br />
This is what we call a flawless range of<br />
wines: Sven Ellwanger presented a<br />
thoroughly successful portfolio of<br />
wines with some striking and outstanding top<br />
wines. This has almost become a tradition, but<br />
Ellwanger’s Sauvignon Blanc “Junges Schwaben<br />
Fumé Blanc” is always among his most exciting<br />
wines. Smoky, hearty and endowed with<br />
profound minerality, it already gives much joy<br />
but absolutely has the potential to age for<br />
many years. Again just as impressive is the incredibly<br />
spicy and dense Syrah – from now on<br />
the northern Rhône can be found in Swabia.<br />
The nobly sweet wines also are a success.<br />
94 2018 »Junges Schwaben Fumé blanc«<br />
Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Shimmering and sunny yellow in the glass. At first delicate,<br />
slightly restrained fragrance, then smoky and pithy scents<br />
emerge. Complex and lush on the palate, clearly noticeable<br />
flint notions, animating, very young and elegant. Exciting<br />
with potential. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
94 2018 »SL« Grossheppach Steingrüble<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Rich golden yellow appearance in the glass with shimmering<br />
reflections. Cool fragrant nose of white mountain peach and<br />
herbs accentuated by density and complexity. Concentrated<br />
on the palate with fine, compact acidity. A distinctive, stimulating,<br />
pleasant drinking flow and a very long finish.<br />
13 Vol.-%. glass, €€€<br />
94 2017 »Klingenberg SL« Grossheppach<br />
Wanne Syrah trocken<br />
Deep dark colour, very spicy nose of herbs, black pepper,<br />
cumin and allspice. Wonderfully elegant and powerful on the<br />
palate, also here the cumin gains the upper hand accentuated<br />
with juicy freshness. Perfect food wine for roasts such as<br />
leg of wild boar. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
94 2019 »Essenz« Trockenbeerenauslese<br />
Fragrance notes of very concise honey spiciness, especially<br />
acacia honey, followed by concentrated sultana and temple<br />
flower. On the palate there is a lot of texture, round, then<br />
with lively acidity and balanced. Silky in the long finish,<br />
unique in style. 8 Vol.-%. glass, €€€<br />
93 2018 »Oberholz« Geradstetten<br />
Lichtenberg Riesling trocken<br />
90 2018 »vom bunten Mergel« Riesling tr.<br />
89 2019 Grossheppach Steingrüble<br />
Riesling Kabinett feinherb<br />
90 2017 »vom bunten Mergel«<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
90 2016 »Kreation CMX« tr. ME/CS/CU/CF<br />
89 2018 »Steillage« Lemberger trocken<br />
92 2019 »Essenz« Sauvignon Blanc Auslese<br />
94 2018 Geradstetten Lichtenberg<br />
Chardonnay trocken<br />
Delicate nose at the beginning, but then increasingly more<br />
powerful with notes of fresh fine wood, smoke and a hint of<br />
vanilla. Elegant and juicy on the palate, powerful without<br />
being broad, very young and yet spicy accentuated by fine<br />
phenolics. A Burgundian-style wine, very skilful.<br />
13 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
626 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Württemberg | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT JÜRGEN ELLWANGER<br />
Bachstrasse 27, 73650 Winterbach<br />
T: +49 (7181) 44525, info@weingut-ellwanger.de<br />
www.weingut-ellwanger.de<br />
Cellar Door: Tuesdays through Fridays 9–12 hrs and<br />
15–19 hrs, Saturdays 9–15 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Jörg Ellwanger<br />
Contact: Felix Ellwanger<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 200,000 (35 % white, 65 % red)/26 ha<br />
The wines made by Jörg and Felix Ellwanger<br />
present themselves at their usual<br />
high standard. The brothers are still<br />
supported by their father Jürgen, one of those<br />
winemakers who determinedly fought against<br />
mediocrity and stasis of the Rems valley. Those<br />
looking for smoothed over wines will search in<br />
vain: the Lemberger shows density and spice,<br />
the Cabernet Sauvignon is astonishingly focused<br />
with its juicy fruit. The “H.A.D.E.S”<br />
Grauburgunder demonstrates both skilful use<br />
of wood and varietal typicity – while the<br />
Weissburgunder convinces with density,<br />
creaminess and charm. Absolutely solid!<br />
92 2018 »H.A.D.E.S.« Grauburgunder trocken<br />
Pear, apple, apple peel in the powerful nose followed by walnuts,<br />
herbs and toasted aromas. Full-bodied on the palate<br />
with good density, extract and phenolics. The warm year<br />
shows in the well-integrated alcohol. Vinified for substance<br />
and long maturity, potential! 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2017 »H.A.D.E.S.« Merlot trocken<br />
91 2018 Schnait Altenberg Riesling GG<br />
Notes of peach, citrus peel, mineral hints, white pepper and<br />
Asian spices. On the palate there is a beautiful classic style,<br />
clear fruit, subtle sweetness, ripe acidity that reflects the<br />
warm year with good substance and medium tension with<br />
added sprinkles of phenolics. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2017 »H.A.D.E.S.« Cabernet Sauvignon tr.<br />
Beautiful Cabernet scent, cassis, spice and hints of tobacco.<br />
Powerful, focused and fruity on the palate. Maintains freshness<br />
despite all the concentration with vivid and juicy tannins.<br />
Successful Remstal interpretation with style.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2017 Hebsack Berg Lemberger GG<br />
Spicy and intense nose with aromas of blackberry, juniper<br />
berry, wood spice and eucalyptus. On the palate there is<br />
well-integrated power, shows strength, density, juice and<br />
also charm. The midpalate has mineral notes and lively tannins.<br />
Good potential. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2018 Winterbach Hungerberg<br />
Weissburgunder GG<br />
Acacia blossom, apple peel, ripe citrus fruit, smoke and<br />
some vanilla scents on the nose. Multi-layered and spicy on<br />
the palate, good density, volume, minerality and phenolics,<br />
also juice and texture. Good potential, will continue to mature.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
627
WEINGUT ESCHER<br />
Seestrasse 4, 71409 Schwaikheim<br />
T: +49 (7195) 57256, info@wein-escher.de<br />
www.wein-escher.de<br />
Cellar Door: Tuesdays through Fridays 16.30–18.30 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 9–14 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Christian Escher<br />
Contact: Christian Escher<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 90,000 (40 % white, 60 % red)/14 ha<br />
The gloves are off! Chirstian Escher, still<br />
hailed as an ambitous young winemaker<br />
in the past, is now playing at professional<br />
level. He leaves his single-site wines on<br />
the lees until just before bottling while the single-site<br />
reds are bottled without filtration.<br />
Christian Escher has particular skill when it<br />
comes to wood. All his wines show a beautiful<br />
balance, nothing is loud about them. His red<br />
wines, especially, demonstate why Württemberg<br />
wines in general, and Lemberger in particular,<br />
should feature on every wine menu<br />
that wants to be taken seriously. A really<br />
strong performance!<br />
91 2019 »Goldlage« Steinreinach Hörnle<br />
Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Very fragrant scent for a Sauvignon, not overbearing but finely-interlaced<br />
with gooseberry, ripe pear and light woody<br />
notes. Nicely balanced on the palate, juicy, dry, good balance<br />
between acidity and structure. A fine Sauvignon example.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
On the palate, too, the wine is clearly fruit-driven with the<br />
finely-integrated wood.. The very beautiful fruit core still has<br />
a little bit of fat. Presently ideal for fruity-wine drinkers, but<br />
has ageing potential. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2019 »Goldlage« Stetten Pulvermächer<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
90 2018 »Goldreserve« Stetten Lindhalde<br />
Chardonnay trocken<br />
Fine woody notes on the nose. On the palate, a certain lactic<br />
note, a lot of substance, but at the same time a very piquant<br />
acidity that counteracts the substance. A wine in which the<br />
individual elements can still harmonise. Potential.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2017 »Goldreserve« Steinreinach Hörnle<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Quite light-coloured. On the nose red plum, raspberry, leaves<br />
and a hint of boxwood. On the palate there is enormous tension,<br />
high piquancy, acidity and intensity. Just beginning to<br />
show elegance. Also thanks to the fine-grained tannins, a<br />
positive development is guaranteed. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2017 »Goldreserve« Korb Sommerhalde<br />
Zweigelt trocken<br />
Intensely plummy fruit, sour cherry and rather cool nuances.<br />
93 2017 »Goldreserve« Korb Sommerhalde<br />
Lemberger trocken<br />
Pithy scents of blackberry, blackcurrant and violet, showing<br />
depth and an ethereal note. Dense, ripe and almost soft<br />
fruit on the palate with perfectly-integrated wood. Despite<br />
the substance, very nice balance and a lot of potential.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
628 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Württemberg | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGÄRTNER ESSLINGEN<br />
Lerchenbergstrasse 16, 73733 Esslingen-Mettingen<br />
T: +49 (711) 918962, info@weingaertner-esslingen.de<br />
www.weingaertner-esslingen.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Thursdays 8.30–12.30 hrs<br />
and 14–18 hrs, Fridays 8.30–18 hrs, Saturdays 9–13 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Jochen Clauss<br />
Contact: Ramona Fischer<br />
Hectares: 72 ha<br />
In medieval times, Esslingen was the centre<br />
of Württemberg’s viticulture and even then<br />
the dry stone walls, painstakingly-built<br />
from sandstone, already characterised the local<br />
vineyards. Today, these steep slopes are cultivated<br />
by the one hundred members of the Weingärtner<br />
Esslingen cooperative. They grow<br />
about twenty different grape varieties and both<br />
the classically Swabian and the French varieties<br />
know how to convince. In this absolutely solid<br />
range the red wines take the top spots, like the<br />
elegant blend “Abt Fulrad” and the full-bodied<br />
Lemberger from the Schenkenberg site. The<br />
uni-frills Riesling turns into our Falstaff-Tip.<br />
91 2017 »Abt Fulrad Cuvée Zukunft Keller 11«<br />
Esslingen Schenkenberg tr. CS/CF/ME<br />
Blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot<br />
with an intense nose of blackcurrant and beetroot, spicy<br />
wood and also undergrowth. On the palate there is good balance,<br />
power and ripe acidity which integrate well. Smooth<br />
tannins, elegant!. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
Soft onset and full-bodied on the palate, ripe acidity and soft<br />
tannins, good volume and medium tension. A Pinot Noir that<br />
works well with hearty food. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 Esslingen Schenkenberg<br />
»Rosé Stufe 8« trocken<br />
91 2015 »Abt Fulrad Keller 11« Esslingen<br />
Schenkenberg Lemberger trocken<br />
Defined scents of woody notes, eucalyptus and plenty of ripe,<br />
dark fruit, blackberry and blackcurrant. Impressive and powerful<br />
on the palate, incisive spice, good extract, voluminous<br />
and bold. Good balance, suited to the fireside and for supper.<br />
14,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2016 Esslinger Schenkenberg Merlot<br />
Stufe 8 trocken Wein aus Terrassenlage<br />
On the nose, plum, ripe cherry and some mint, dark spices,<br />
pepper and hints of wet leaves. Powerful and voluminous on<br />
the palate with ripe, supple tannins and fine spice. A solid<br />
companion for cold winter evenings and with braised meat<br />
and game dishes. 14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2018 »Stufe 8« Esslingen Schenkenberg<br />
Pinot Noir trocken<br />
Intense aroma of ripe cherry, plum, flowers, herbs and coffee.<br />
89 2019 Esslingen Burg Riesling trocken<br />
Dry Riesling with vivid acidity that has aromas of apple and<br />
peach. Citrus aromas on the palate, lean and consistentlybuilt,<br />
with fine spice and also mineral hints. Clear and juicy<br />
varietal representative, unembellished.<br />
12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
629
WEINGUT FORSTHOF<br />
Forsthof 4, 71711 Steinheim-Kleinbottwar<br />
T: +49 (7148) 6134, verkauf@weingut-forsthof.com<br />
www.weingut-forsthof.com<br />
Cellar Door: -Mondays through Fridays 8–12 hrs and<br />
14–18 hrs, Saturdays 8–14 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Andreas Roth<br />
Contact: Andreas Roth<br />
Hectares: 12 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
Weingut Forsthof, founded in 1753,<br />
makes its successful debut here in<br />
our guide. Under Andreas Roth’s<br />
management, two generations work hand in<br />
hand, resulting in a fruitful interplay of experience,<br />
dynamism and innovation. This, naturally,<br />
benefits the wines that come across as<br />
fresh-faced and serene. The twelve hectares<br />
are farmed organically and sixty percent of<br />
plantings are red varieties. The very skillfullymade<br />
series of top reds carries its name “Ars<br />
Vinitoris” – the art of the winemaker – deservedly.We<br />
look forward to further artworks<br />
from this estate.<br />
89 2019 Grauburgunder trocken<br />
Scents of ripe pear, walnuts, pineapple and spices. On the<br />
palate, full-bodied, juicy and textural, powerful construction<br />
with volume but without losing its measure. Has a natural effect,<br />
excellent gastronomic accompaniment to risotto and<br />
vegetables. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 Cabernet Blanc trocken<br />
Aromas of pear, red apple and apple peel followed by citrus<br />
fruit, fine spice and yellow flowers. On the palate there is<br />
clear, sweet fruit, juice, textural and good substance which is<br />
well-balanced. Medium length and spicy in the finish. Harmonious<br />
wine with a clear expression. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
91 2018 »Ars Vinitoris B« trocken BF/ME/CAC<br />
Lemberger, Merlot and Cabernet Carbon scents on the nose,<br />
ripe dark fruit, complex and also spicy. With good concentration,<br />
power and spice on the palate, the tannins are bursting<br />
with power. A fireside wine with good potential.<br />
14,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2018 Merlot trocken<br />
Dark in appearance, cassis and black cherry in the lush nose,<br />
also herbs and beetroot; voluminous and impressive. On the<br />
palate there are powerful and incisive tannins. A bold and<br />
still young wine that needs time but also has good potential<br />
for further maturation. 14,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
88 2019 Muskateller halbtrocken<br />
88 2019 »Ars Vinitoris Weiss« tr. WB/RR/PG<br />
88 2019 Weissburgunder trocken<br />
89 2018 Cabernet Carbon trocken<br />
89 2018 »Evolution 2.18« Spätburgunder<br />
Auslese trocken<br />
89 2018 Spätburgunder Auslese Barrique tr.<br />
89 2018 »Ars Vinitoris Rot« tr. BF/PN/ME/CAC<br />
89 2018 Lemberger trocken<br />
Blackberry, cherry and mint on the nose followed by ample<br />
spice and also hints of malt and chocolate. On the palate<br />
there is good power and volume, also sour cherry notes and<br />
a fresh impression. The tannins are grippy, still slightly astringent.Ageing<br />
potential. 14 Vol.-%, cork, €<br />
630 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT FRANK<br />
Württemberg | WINERIES<br />
Bönnigheimer Strasse 29, 74336 Brackenheim<br />
T: +49 (7135) 9361281, info@weingutfrank.de<br />
www.weingutfrank.de<br />
Cellar Door: Fridays 14–19 hrs, Saturdays 10–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Florian Frank<br />
Contact: Florian Frank<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 25,000 (60 % white, 40 % red)/3 ha<br />
It is especially in turbulent times that<br />
Weingut Frank’s motto is heeded most:<br />
“If you can dream it, you can do it. Make<br />
a plan and then get going.” This estate in<br />
Brackenheim was founded just over a decade<br />
ago and has since grown, so has the quality of<br />
wines, step by step. The Riesling shows its fun<br />
side, the Grauburgunder comes with great<br />
substance while the reds in particular prove,<br />
especially the profound Merlot and the spicy<br />
Lemberger, how well they can age. We like<br />
this development. Nothing here dampens our<br />
confidence.<br />
90 2015 Grauburgunder *** trocken<br />
Ripe pear and fine spice scents, followed by nutty and toasty<br />
aromas with a hint of quince. On the palate there is good substance<br />
and structure, concise spiciness and salty notes. A dry<br />
Pinot Gris that has not yet reached the end of its possibilities.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 Sauvignon Blanc ** trocken<br />
91 2016 Merlot *** trocken<br />
Ripe and powerful nose, roasted coffee beans, cassis, blood<br />
orange and spices. Soft, velvety and spicy on the palate with<br />
polished tannins and sweet extract, has substance, density<br />
and power. It remains elegant, consistent and with a good<br />
length. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2015 Lemberger ** Holzfass trocken<br />
Powerful and ripe nose with blackberry, black cherry, juniper<br />
berry and some smoked meat and beetroot. Spicy and powerful<br />
on the palate, animating and in good shape with medium<br />
density and the necessary freshness to keep tension and<br />
drinking pleasure enjoyable. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2017 »Cuvée Rot*** Vom Bunten Mergel«<br />
trocken ME/BF/ZW/AC<br />
Blend with scents of dried meat, plum, pepper and beetroot.<br />
Powerful on the palate with good concentration; the acidity<br />
provides balance, concise tannins in good proportion and<br />
with grip. Pairs well with food! 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 Riesling ** trocken<br />
Fruity nose of peach, apricot and apple with fine floral and<br />
spicy notes. On the palate, fine stone fruit and lively acidity,<br />
which harmonises well with the residual sweetness. An enjoyable<br />
Riesling with clear expression. A mood enhancer.<br />
12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
631
WEINGUT GAUFER<br />
Mariannenstrasse 24, 74653 Ingelfingen<br />
T: +49 (7940) 57373, info@weingut-gaufer.de<br />
www.weingut-gaufer.de<br />
Cellar Door: Wednesdays through Fridays 14–19 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 9–13 hrs and by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Susanne Schmezer, Gerrit Schmezer<br />
Contact: Susanne Schmezer<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 50,000 (60 % white, 40 % red)/11 ha<br />
Weingut Gaufer is another first-timer<br />
in this guide. Its little subregion<br />
also only crops up very rarely in<br />
wine guides. It is in the Kocher valley, between<br />
Künzelsau and Weissbach that the Schmezer<br />
family owns 11 hectares of vineyards. They<br />
make attractive wines from their vineyard<br />
slopes which are characterised by Triassic<br />
limestone. All of the presented wines retail at<br />
between EUR 6.00 and 15.00 and this already<br />
signals their destiny as gastronomic wines.<br />
The Weissburgunder from the 2017 vintage<br />
thus illustrates that wines with structure and<br />
drive can mature. A most successful debut!<br />
90 2017 »Erlesenes« Ingelfingen Hoher Berg<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Strong yellow with greenish reflections in the glass. Lactic-buttery<br />
notes on the nose, should be swirled a little. On<br />
the palate a very calm, smooth flow, lots of glycerine, lots of<br />
substance, texture, but also a fine vein of acidity. Shows potential.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2018 »Erlesenes« Ingelfingen Hoher Berg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Enormous piquancy on the nose, lime, lemon tart, light powderiness<br />
and minerality. Very dense on the palate, a very substantial,<br />
spicy version. A little bit of ageing will help to link the<br />
individual components even more. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2018 »Erlesenes« Ingelfingen Hoher Berg<br />
Lemberger trocken<br />
Elderberry dominates the nose, pith and berries, plus violets.<br />
Smooth drinking flow on the palate, black plum nuances,<br />
pronounced fruitiness and lively tannins. Still seems a bit<br />
plump and very fruit-centred, but should develop positively.<br />
14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2016 »Erlesenes« Ingelfingen Hoher Berg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Garnet colour in the glass . On the nose wild strawberry, bay<br />
leaf and slight leathery notes. On the palate medium-bodied<br />
and rather light red in aroma from sweet cherry to cranberry.<br />
Slightly lactic, elegant. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
88 2019 »Geschmackvolles« Ingelfingen<br />
Hoher Berg Riesling trocken<br />
87 2018 »Geschmackvolles« Ingelfingen<br />
Hoher Berg Weissburgunder trocken<br />
87 2019 »Geschmackvolles« Ingelfingen<br />
Hoher Berg Grauburgunder trocken<br />
87 2018 »Geschmackvolles« Niedernhall<br />
Burgstall Silvaner trocken<br />
87 2019 »Geschmackvolles« Ingelfingen<br />
Hoher Berg Rosé trocken<br />
88 2018 »Geschmackvolles« Niedernhall<br />
Burgstall Spätburgunder trocken<br />
87 2018 »Geschmackvolles« Niedernhall<br />
Burgstall Schwarzriesling trocken<br />
90 2017 »Erlesenes« Ingelfingen Hoher Berg<br />
Rotwein Cuvée trocken CD/BF/DF/ZW<br />
Two thirds Cabernet Dorsa in the blend. Scents of clove, black<br />
cumin and restrained red and black berries. Lively on the palate<br />
with a nice drinking flow, not extraordinarily complex but<br />
with fine fruit and balance. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
632 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Württemberg | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT UND EDELBRENNEREI<br />
GEMMRICH<br />
Löwensteiner Strasse 34, 71717 Beilstein<br />
T: +49 (7062) 3514, anja@gemmrich.de<br />
www.gemmrich.de<br />
Cellar Door: Thursday and Fridays 9–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 9–15 hrs and by telephone appointment<br />
Winemaker: Bernd Gemmrich<br />
Contact: Anja Gemmrich<br />
Hectares: 10 ha<br />
While fungal-resistant grape varieties<br />
only take up a fifth of plantings<br />
at Weingut Gemmrich in<br />
Württemberg’s Unterland, they made up four<br />
of the six wines that were presented for tasting<br />
this year. And the spectrum was wide:<br />
from the powerful Muscaris which remain<br />
gratifyingly firm in spite of almost alarming<br />
analytical values, via a harmonious and dry,<br />
easy-drinking white to a classic Lemberger.<br />
All the wines were powerful. Perhaps Anja<br />
and Simon Gemmrich, “Young Württemberg<br />
Winemakers of the Year 2019”, will manage<br />
to add more finesse in the future.<br />
90 2019 »Unkaputtbar« Beilstein Wartberg<br />
Muscaris trocken<br />
Is this feasible? Barrique, bone-dry, 15 percent abv? As a<br />
matter of fact, yes! Extremely grapey nose, lightly fortified<br />
like a Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise. On the palate, oak,<br />
high viscosity, but surprisingly full of tension . Delightful and<br />
elixir-like. 15 Vol.-%. DIAM, €€<br />
90 2015 »Reserve« Beilstein Wartberg<br />
Lemberger trocken<br />
Mature colour, with a peppery scent, followed by clove and<br />
prune notes. High piquancy with acidity and spiciness, the<br />
latter also due to the alcohol. The fruit core is medium-weight<br />
with a maraschino cherry note. No storage obligation, immediately<br />
drinkable. 14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2015 »Cerubino Cabernet Cuvée« Beilstein<br />
Wartberg trocken CU/CD<br />
Mature in appearance and aroma, with notes of leather, bay<br />
leaf and spice. On the palate, the alcohol gives the peppery<br />
spice, but the fruit is not dull and offers a dark berry and<br />
plummy counterpart. An ideal accompaniment to game.<br />
14,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2016 »Unkaputtbar« Beilstein Wartberg<br />
Cabernet Cortis trocken<br />
Chocolate and a mint scent similar to 'After Eight' chocolates,<br />
fragrant, slightly malty, fine spice; first development<br />
notes. On the palate there is fine-grained, tight tannins<br />
flanked by strong alcohol. A recognisable Cabernet connection,<br />
but comes with more force than the original.<br />
14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
88 2019 Beilstein Wartberg<br />
Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
89 2019 »Unkaputtbar« Cuvée-Weiss<br />
Beilstein Wartberg trocken SC/CB<br />
Fresh-floral nose reminiscent of Sauvignon Blanc, quite intense<br />
perfumed notes. On the palate there is fine acidity<br />
and a certain residual sweetness, "harmoniously dry". Not<br />
a demanding wine 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
633
WEINGUT LEON GOLD<br />
Buocher Weg 9, 71384 Weinstadt, T: +49 (7151) 1691215<br />
info@weingut-gold.de, www.weingut-gold.de<br />
Cellar Door: Wednesdays 17–19 hrs, Saturdays 10–13 hrs<br />
and by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Leon Gold<br />
Contact: Leon Gold<br />
Hectares: 11 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
Leon Gold, with his eleven-hectare estate<br />
in the Rems valley, is treading new (and<br />
rather gratifying) paths in Württemberg.<br />
Stylistically the only comparison that<br />
may still hold would be with Jochen Beurer –<br />
Gold’s wines are entirely non-kitsch, straight,<br />
mineral and therefore more Noma gastronomic<br />
restaurant than country inn. His Chardonnay<br />
“Réserve“ adds a new style facet to<br />
this guide with its intentional evocation of the<br />
French Jura region. With its reductive, toasty<br />
and compelling natural wine vein it is bound<br />
to create discussion in wine circles – we love<br />
that sort of horizon.<br />
92 2018 »Réserve« Chardonnay trocken<br />
Clear wood-influenced aromas, but not sweet-vanilla more<br />
toasty notes, plus hazelnuts and smoky-wood nuances. Also<br />
taut, pithy and smoky on the palate, with a lot of substance<br />
and potential. Rather reminiscent of Chardonnay from the<br />
French Jura. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
touches. No exuberant structure, but straight and typical for<br />
this estate. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2018 »Kabi« Riesling<br />
92 2018 »Cuveé Ida Marie« extra brut<br />
Very light tertiary notes, plus Pinot berry hints showing a refined,<br />
multi-layered fragrance. Tense and juicy on the palate,<br />
bundled, very fine mousse, elegant and mineral. A concise<br />
but at the same time ultra-fine acidity with a delicate fruit<br />
finish. 11,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2018 »Halbstück« Gundelsbach Koih<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Scents of wood spice, yellow fruit, apricot, fresh pineapple,<br />
smoke and yeast. On the palate there is substance and fullness<br />
in a firm, wood-supported structure with mineral hints.<br />
Not a superficial charmer, but a structure-driven Riesling<br />
with depth. Potential. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2018 Grossheppach<br />
Cabernet Sauvignon trocken<br />
Dark purple hues. On the nose a lot of ripe, even soft berry<br />
nuances without any Cabernet pepper notes. On the palate,<br />
the wine is very clean and dense, with dark berry-peppery<br />
90 2018 Gundelsbach Riesling trocken<br />
Freshly-opened reveals a reductive nose, with aeration still<br />
rather brittle but a few subtle herbal notes emerge. On the<br />
palate, this Ortswein is really dry and due to the extensive<br />
absence of fruit (only slight apricot notes) and sweetness,<br />
an ideal companion to food. 12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
634 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT GOLTER<br />
Württemberg | WINERIES<br />
Klee 1, 74360 Ilsfeld<br />
T: +49 (7062) 978940, info@weingut-golter.de<br />
www.weingut-golter.de<br />
Cellar Door: Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays 10–12 and<br />
15–17.30 hrs, Thursdays 15–17.30 hrs, Saturdays 9–12 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Christoph Golter, Martin Streicher<br />
Contact: Christoph Golter<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 150,000 (35 % white, 65 % red)/20 ha<br />
We are sending our compliments to<br />
Ilsfeld – this is the best range of<br />
wines that Weingut Golter ever<br />
presented for tasting to this guide. Christoph<br />
Golter , vintage 1992, who is responsible for<br />
winemaking alongside Martin Streicher, presented<br />
above all convincing red wines: like the<br />
dense Lemberger from the Schozacher Schelmenklinge<br />
site and the spicy yet smooth Syrah.<br />
The powerful Riesling from the Schlossberg<br />
also shows potential and is already unfolding<br />
its virtues. We simply confirm continuing development<br />
in this estate, founded in 1982 by<br />
Reinhard and Christine Golter.<br />
90 2019 Helfenberg Schlossberg Riesling tr.<br />
Typical Riesling aroma, peach and apricot, also spices and<br />
floral notes. On the palate there is volume, good substance<br />
and spiciness; the acidity is ripe and resilient with a fine mineral<br />
foundation. Also juiciness and texture, good potential for<br />
maturity. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
91 2017 Schozach Schelmenklinge<br />
Lemberger trocken<br />
Ripe aroma ambience, ripe cherry, toasted aromas, mulberry,<br />
blackberry and hints of clove. With good concentration and<br />
volume on the palate, lots of spice, pepper and also allspice,<br />
condensed at the mid-palate. Ambitious Lemberger with good<br />
length and local hallmark. 14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
91 2017 Ilsfeld Rappen Syrah trocken<br />
Intense nose that still testifies to the powerful wood ageing,<br />
followed by blackcurrant, smoked meat, juniper berry and<br />
clove notes. On the palate, good substance combines with<br />
spice, depth and also elegant suppleness. A unique interpretation<br />
of Syrah. 14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
90 2017 Abstatt Burgberg Lemberger trocken<br />
Multi-layered bouquet with ripe dark and red fruit, blackberry,<br />
blackcurrant and black cherry. A distinctive and spicy Lemberger<br />
with power and volume, lots of spice and a resilient framework<br />
of mature tannins. Good length. 14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 Ilsfeld Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
88 2019 Weissburgunder trocken<br />
88 2019 Ilsfeld Riesling trocken<br />
88 2019 Lemberger Rosé feinherb<br />
89 2017 Ilsfeld Schozachtal<br />
Lemberger trocken<br />
89 2019 »der Trollinger« Helfenberg trocken<br />
Raspberry, wild strawberry and almond on the nose.<br />
Smooth on the palate with ripe acidity and ripe strawberry<br />
notes, dry and unpretentious in its impression, a good freshness<br />
and defined fruit with restrained tannins. A pleasure to<br />
drink chilled with a snack. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
635
WEINGUT KARL HAIDLE<br />
Hindenburgstrasse 21, 71394 Kernen-Stetten<br />
T: +49 (7151) 949110, info@weingut-karl-haidle.de<br />
www.weingut-karl-haidle.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–12 hrs and<br />
13–18 hrs, Saturdays 9–15 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Moritz Haidle<br />
Contact: Moritz Haidle<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 130,000 (60 % white, 40 % red)/23 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
Moritz Haidle continues on his path<br />
regardless: it is admirable how this<br />
young winemaker has consistently<br />
developed his very own style, always aiming<br />
for wines that show character and provenenance<br />
– and which may even polarise.<br />
Haidle, who joined the VDP steering committee<br />
in summer 2019, now concentrates on<br />
Riesling, Spätburgunder and Lemberger. His<br />
“Ritzling” is a solid entry-level wine and with<br />
the Riesling “Schilfsandstein” we already enter<br />
the class of terroir-spiced luxury which<br />
finds its culmination in the compelling, mineral-charged<br />
Lembergers. Breath-taking!<br />
93 2019 Stetten Pulvermächer<br />
Riesling Kabinett<br />
Very restrained on the nose, yeasty, very stone focused, only<br />
hints of (citrus) fruit. On the palate there is mouth-watering<br />
acidity and restrained sweetness, the bold design of a southern<br />
Kabinett with great tension and potential for longevity.<br />
8,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
96 2018 Stetten Mönchberg Berge<br />
Lemberger GG<br />
Smells like a Hermitage, ethereal top notes, semi-bitter<br />
chocolate, black cherry, leather and peppery hints. On the<br />
palate quite generous and softly-grounded, very fine tannins<br />
in high quantity, accompanied by vivacious, intense tactile<br />
minerality. Lots of juice in the finish. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
95 2018 Stetten Mönchberg Gehrnhalde<br />
Lemberger GG<br />
Liquorice, black cherry and some prune scents. On the palate<br />
a lot of texture of very fine means, very fine tannin pixels,<br />
softly grounded, powerfully mineral. The main body is filled<br />
to the brim with substance and yet everything seems so elegant<br />
and fresh. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2018 Stetten Häder Lemberger<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
Subtle wood scents, gingerbread, black cherry and violet<br />
pastille notes. Fine-grained tannins, lively acidity, good tactile<br />
mineral presence, medium fruit accompaniment. A very<br />
good length with a preponderance of substance over fruit.<br />
Very long finish. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2019 »Pfeffer« Stetten Riesling Kabinett<br />
89 2019 »Ritzling« Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 »Bunter Mergel« Blaufränkisch tr.<br />
91 2019 »Schilfsandstein« Stetten<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Extremely complex, defined terroir notes, gypsum, damp<br />
stone, then herbal notes and spices, liquorice and a hint of<br />
cumin. On the palate, unadorned and immediate liveliness,<br />
quite dry, firm acidity, tactile minerality, full-bodied but<br />
also animating. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
636 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT HEID<br />
Württemberg | WINERIES<br />
Cannstatter Strasse 13/2, 70734 Fellbach<br />
T: +49 (7115) 84112, info@weingut-heid.de<br />
www.weingut-heid.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 17–19 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 9–13 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Markus Heid<br />
Contact: Markus Heid<br />
Hectares: 10 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
Markus Heid offered a very strong performance<br />
last year already. And with<br />
this new vintage he did not just<br />
maintain that level but surpassed it. Especially<br />
the 2018 red wines are in a class of their own,<br />
the exquisite Spätburgunder GG in particular.<br />
What is more, his style runs through the entire<br />
portfolio – there simply are no alcohol bombs,<br />
there is nothing without lustre. Instead, the<br />
wines have bite and inner tension that seems to<br />
say “hello, we are alive!”. The top wine even<br />
added supreme elegance to this entire display<br />
of piquancy.<br />
92 2019 Stetten Pulvermächer Riesling GG<br />
Finely-fruity and spicy aromas, primarily apple, but opens up<br />
with more air contact. Resolutely dry in the style of the winery,<br />
first subtle, then persistent with a relatively light body.<br />
Shows density, tension and pull. Still youthful, potential.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
92 2019 »Melchisedec« Sauvignon Blanc tr.<br />
Perfumed Sauvignon aroma of nettles and yellow gooseberries,<br />
accentuated with more air contact. On the palate there<br />
is piquant acidity and a medium body, dry and aromatically<br />
fine. A versatile gastronomic companion.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
94 Fellbach Lämmler Spätburgunder GG 2018<br />
Spicy-peppery aroma, black cherry, sour cherry and a note of<br />
bitter almond. Good fruit presence also on the palate, with<br />
fine tannins. A wine that masters excellently the balance between<br />
pithiness and elegance, and acidity, density and content.<br />
Youthful. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 Fellbach Lämmler Lemberger GG 2018<br />
Dark purple in the glass. On the nose bay leaf, black cherry<br />
and balsamic notes. Dense, intense and spicy substance on<br />
the palate with enormous tension. The pithiness of the Goldberg<br />
is tamed by a superior elegance. Lots of potential.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2019 »Melchisedec«<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
90 2019 Fellbach Goldberg Riesling<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
89 2019 »Steinmergel« Silvaner trocken<br />
92 2018 »Melchisedec« Syrah trocken<br />
91 2018 Fellbach Goldberg Pinot Noir<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
90 2018 Fellbach Kaiserblick<br />
St. Laurent trocken<br />
89 2019 Trollinger trocken<br />
92 2018 Fellbach Goldberg Lemberger<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
Dark fruity scents of black cherry, black plum and blackberry<br />
leaf. On the palate hearty acidity, further beautifullyvivid<br />
fruit, very spicy and quite demanding intense fruit and<br />
acidity. Strong interpreted style. 13 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
637
WEINGUT G. A. HEINRICH<br />
Riedstrasse 29, 74076 Heilbronn<br />
T: +49 (7131) 175948, info@weingut-heinrich.de<br />
www.weingut-heinrich.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–12 hrs and<br />
13.30–18 hrs, Saturdays 10–14 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Tobias Heinrich<br />
Contact: Björn Heinrich<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 90,000 (40 % white, 60 % red)/14 ha<br />
Brothers Björn and Tobias Heinrich<br />
keep going full throttle. They took the<br />
estate over from their father Martin<br />
Heinrich in summer 2017. Their textured and<br />
minerally-underpinned Weissburgunder underscores<br />
their ambition as much as the dense,<br />
layered and spicy red wines. Especially the perfectly-balanced<br />
Spätburgunder from the<br />
Heilbronner Löwenherz counts amongst the<br />
best of its kind in Württemberg – but the<br />
“Dieb” with its fine-grained tannins and the<br />
striking Löwenherz-Lemberger impress as<br />
well. If they carry on like that we can expect<br />
great things from the Heinrichs!<br />
92 2018 Heilbronn Hinterer Hundsberg<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
Air contact is required and then lees ageing dominates the<br />
aroma. On the palate, it starts with great suppleness, almost<br />
a creamy texture, the acidity remains restrained, but carries<br />
the stately body very well in combination with the dense substance.<br />
Mineral finish, future prospects. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
which retains the necessary freshness. Incisive tannins, long<br />
finish. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2017 »G.A.« Heilbronn Stiftsberg<br />
Lemberger trocken<br />
93 2017 Heilbronn Löwenherz<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Some rose scent in the powerful aroma, then toasted aromas,<br />
wild raspberry and also a whiff of woodruff. Shows very<br />
good balance on the palate, the fruit is lively and clear, dry<br />
and natural in expression and finely-polished tannins. Good<br />
density, juice and finesse. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2016 »Dieb« trocken BF/CU<br />
Powerful and noble blend of Blaufränkisch and Cabernet<br />
Cubin, with aromas of cassis, elderberry, black tea, coconut<br />
and also mint. Combines texture and relaxed elegance on the<br />
palate, the sandy tannins are well integrated. Very good perspective.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2017 Heilbronn Löwenherz Lemberger tr.<br />
Multi-layered scents of ripe blackberry, juniper berry, strong<br />
toasted aromas and a hint of caramel. On the palate there is<br />
good volume, density and a pronounced spicy character,<br />
91 2017 »G.A.« Heilbronn Stiftsberg<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Engaging Pinot scent with fine spice, cherry, smoky notes<br />
and a hint of juniper. On the palate there is good balance<br />
between body, lively fruitiness and acidity. The acidity is<br />
ripe and supportive with mellow tannins and herbal notes.<br />
A chalky mineral spice in the finish. 12,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
638 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Württemberg | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEIN & SEKTGUT HIRSCHMÜLLER<br />
La-Ferté-Bernard-Strasse 30 , 74348 Lauffen am Neckar<br />
T: +49 (173) 3763603, info@weingut-hirschmueller.de<br />
www.weingut-hirschmueller.de<br />
Cellar Door: Fridays 17–19 hrs and by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Wiebke Krüger and Tobias Hirschmüller<br />
Contact: Wiebke Krüger and Tobias Hirschmüller<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 50,000 (50 % white, 50 % red)/8 ha<br />
Wiebke and Tobias cultivate eight hectares<br />
of vines on the Triassic limestone<br />
soils around the village of<br />
Lauffen am Neckar – and the Pinot varieties are<br />
especially close to their heart. All the whites the<br />
couple makes are charcterised by their maturation<br />
in wood – apart from the carefree Muskateller.<br />
They show good substance and are proper<br />
gastronomic wines. There simply are no weak<br />
spots in this portfolio: The Lemberger shows<br />
power, ripe fruit and elegance and when it comes<br />
to Sekt, these two just know what they are doing!<br />
By now this estate can really be counted as an established<br />
star on the Württemberg wine scene.<br />
91 2018 »Reserve« Chardonnay trocken<br />
On the nose, ripe pear, melon and toasty aromas blend into<br />
the powerful image. Soft on the palate with ripe acidity, texture<br />
and beautiful spiciness. Shows power and volume of the<br />
warm year, brings enough density and substance to convey<br />
its force. Youthful. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
Ideal with braised meat. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 »Perlage Blanc« extra brut<br />
91 2018 »Reserve« Riesling trocken<br />
The aroma testifies to the ageing in wood followed by toasted<br />
aromas, hay, some coconut, melon and ripe stone fruit. On the<br />
palate powerful, sinewy and tightly-structured with clearly-defined<br />
muscle, good density, volume and length supported<br />
by ripe acidity. Youthful, with potential.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
91 2018 »Reserve« Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
Powerful nose dominated by wood and toasty aromas followed<br />
by quince, pear, fresh hay and ripe apple. On the palate<br />
there is good volume, juice and also texture. Generous, but<br />
can support its somewhat broadness. Gastronomic potential,<br />
will evolve. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
91 2017 »Reserve« Lemberger trocken<br />
Scents of ripe blackberry and herbs, followed by roasted coffee<br />
beans, tobacco and black cherry. On the palate there is<br />
volume, a powerful structure and good extract. Generous,<br />
with powerful and ripe tannins without neglecting elegance.<br />
89 2019 Gelber Muskateller trocken<br />
Crystal clear with a fruity nose of mango, ripe apricot and<br />
blade of mace. A lively and animating Muskateller with a<br />
slender texture, lively acidity and fine spiciness. A picture-perfect<br />
aperitif and enjoyable that can immediately<br />
lift one's spirits. 11,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
639
WEINGUT<br />
FÜRST HOHENLOHE OEHRINGEN<br />
Wiesenkelter, 74613 Öhringen-Verrenberg<br />
T: +49 (7941) 94910, info@verrenberg.de<br />
www.verrenberg.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–14 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Joachim Brand<br />
Contact: Joachim Brand<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 190,000 (60 % white, 40 % red)/28 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
This long-standing estate of Fürst Hohenlohe<br />
Oehringen, now run by the<br />
27th generation of the family, presented<br />
a superior and homogenous range of wines<br />
– amongst which the wines of the “H.A.D.E.S.”<br />
series stand out. Especially impressive are cellar<br />
master Joachim Brand’s top red blends “Ex<br />
flammis orior” and “In senio” which apart<br />
from the local Lemberger contain Cabernet<br />
Franc, Merlot and Malbec – grape varieties<br />
that have their home usually much further<br />
south. Likewise, both the “H.A.D.E.S.” Chardonnay<br />
and the Riesling Verrenberg give much<br />
joy – this organic estate is on excellent form.<br />
93 2019 »H.A.D.E.S.« Chardonnay trocken<br />
Subtle wood, hints of meadow herbs, nutty notes and a dash<br />
of sesame. Silky and round on the palate, subtle yeasty nuances<br />
and minerality in the background and yet also poised<br />
and generous. A very stylish Chardonnay that is gastronomically<br />
versatile. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2019 Verrenberg Verrenberg Riesling GG<br />
Fresh and citrusy fragrance of lemongrass, mandarin and<br />
fresh lemon zest. Delicate phenolics, firm but also ripe acidity.<br />
A stately Riesling, minerally-underpinned, unembellished<br />
and with the best perspective. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2018 »Ex flammis orior H.A.D.E.S.«<br />
trocken BF/CF/ME<br />
Dark cherry red hues. On the nose fine red fruit, cherry, sloe,<br />
raspberry, blackberry and some smoke. On the palate refined<br />
tannins, ripe and nicely-integrated acidity with cherry nuances.<br />
Minerality, elegance and a powerful structure followed by<br />
a good length and textural finish! 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2018 Verrenberg Verrenberg Lemberger GG<br />
Dark red hues. On the nose sumptuous and attractive dark<br />
fruit, blackberry, ripe cherry, raspberry, spice and hints of<br />
smoke. On the palate tension and substance, fine tannins,<br />
lively acidity, cherry and blackberry nuances with hints of<br />
dark chocolate. Good length, powerful. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
88 2019 Verrenberg Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
88 2018 Untersteinbach<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
92 2018 »H.A.D.E.S.« Merlot trocken<br />
91 2018 Verrenberg Verrenberg<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
90 2018 »H.A.D.E.S.« Malbec trocken<br />
90 2018 »H.A.D.E.S.« Cabernet Franc trocken<br />
90 2018 Verrenberg Lemberger trocken<br />
92 2018 »In senio H.A.D.E.S.«<br />
trocken CF/ME/CS/MA<br />
Dark, rich red. On the nose ripe cherry, smoke, spice, eucalyptus<br />
and plum. Full and dense on the palate with ripe tannins,<br />
balanced acidity, dark fruits, some cocoa, lots of spice<br />
and tension. Good structure, ideal for those who like power-driven<br />
wines. Good length, pairs well with red meat.<br />
14 Vol.-%, cork, €€€<br />
640 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Württemberg | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT HOLZAPFEL<br />
Wilfenseeweg 78/1, 74172 Neckarsulm<br />
T: +49 (7132) 37869, info@weingut-holzapfel.de<br />
weingut-holzapfel.de<br />
Cellar Door: Tuesdays 10–13 hrs, Thursdays 11–18 hrs,<br />
Fridays 14–18 hrs, Saturdays 9–13 hrs and by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Bernhard Holzapfel<br />
Contact: Bernhard Holzapfel<br />
Hectares: 14 ha<br />
The vineyards of Weingut Holzapfel are<br />
predominantly in the Neckarsulmer<br />
Scheuerberg where the vines root on<br />
heavy Keuper (marl) soils. The family has been<br />
making wine here since the 17th century and<br />
the estate is run today by Bernhard and Ursula<br />
Holzapfel and their son Silas. All the wines are<br />
at an artisanally-sound level, the rosé with just<br />
the right amount of tannin is a real pleasure,<br />
the Pinot Blanc is elegant and shows clear<br />
fruit, the reds, like the spicy and concentrated<br />
Lemberger, show great potential for bottle<br />
age. More of that please!<br />
90 2015 »B« Neckarsulm Scheuerberg<br />
Lemberger trocken<br />
Ripe blackberry scents, also smoke, leather and incense followed<br />
by floral notes. Powerful, concentrated and spicy on<br />
the palate, good density, good balance with a fine acid structure.<br />
The tannins are soft and well-integrated, medium<br />
length with fine spiciness. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
agile acidity that knows how to accompany the sweet fruit<br />
competently. Nice aperitif and also with desserts, playful varietal<br />
style. 10,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 »W.H. 1« Neckarsulm Scheuerberg<br />
trocken BF/PM/CI<br />
89 2019 Neckarsulm Scheuerberg<br />
Chardonnay trocken<br />
Clear fruit expression on the nose, stone fruit, pear, apple,<br />
melon, citrus fruit and elderflower. Smooth on the palate<br />
with a sweet extract and fine spice, some allspice nuances;<br />
finely-balanced, mild acidic structure. Elegant and juicy<br />
Chardonnay. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 Neckarsulm Scheuerberg<br />
Pinot Blanc trocken<br />
Fruity and white floral aromas, yellow fruit, mirabelle plums,<br />
apple and floral notes. Fruity on the palate with a ripe and<br />
lively acidity structure, shows texture, clarity and drinking<br />
pleasure. Fine spiciness with good phenolics. Beautiful, pairs<br />
well with food. 12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 Neckarsulm Scheuerberg Muskateller<br />
Ripe gooseberry, papaya, grapefruit and honeydew melon<br />
scents. Full-bodied on the palate with expressive fruit and<br />
89 2019 Neckarsulm Scheuerberg<br />
Lemberger Rosé trocken<br />
Scents of raspberries and blackberries, also leafy greens.<br />
Taut and slenderly-built on the palate with a beautiful fruit<br />
expression, lively acidity and well-fitting tannins plus some<br />
citrus notes. Perfect for al fresco dining!<br />
12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
641
HORNSTEIN AM SEE<br />
Conrad-Forster-Str. 50, 88149 Nonnenhorn<br />
T: +49 (83) 8298780, simon@hornstein-am-see.de<br />
www.hornstein-am-see.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Saturdays 9–12 hrs and<br />
13–18 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Simon Hornstein<br />
Contact: Simon Hornstein<br />
Hectares: 6 ha<br />
Much is happening on the Bavarian<br />
shore of Lake Constance – which curiously<br />
forms part of the Württemberg<br />
wine region. Simon Hornstein is one of those<br />
young winemakers entering the limelight with<br />
his wines. Surrounded by Alps and the Lake, he<br />
makes artisanally-crafted and filigree wines<br />
which, like the uncompromisingly-dry Grauburgunder<br />
and the tension-laden Chardonnay,<br />
can still be a little reductive in their youth. But<br />
patience will be rewarded: after a few days the<br />
wines unfold their charms. The Spätburgunders<br />
from the warm 2018 vintage come across as a<br />
little more powerful. A really great performance!<br />
92 2019 Nonnenhorn Grauburgunder trocken<br />
On the nose, yeast, smoke, toasted aromas, melon and<br />
quince, also herbs, pepper and a hint of malt. Supple on the<br />
palate with a slender contour, spice and apparent ripe acidity.<br />
Uncompromisingly-dry and pure. Good length.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
further and good substance. Ageing potential.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2018 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
91 2019 Nonnenhorn Chardonnay trocken<br />
Strong smoky aromas on the nose, followed by melon,<br />
quince, pear and a few reductive notes. On the palate<br />
well-focused, emphatically-dry and kitsch-free with subtle<br />
fruit notes and obvious woody tones. Crunchy and with density,<br />
very youthful and with good ageing potential.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
91 2018 Nonnenhorn Seehalde<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Smoky and yeasty scents with background notes of cherry<br />
and also floral hints, spicy accents, ginger and white pepper.<br />
Dense and spicy on the palate, the structure shows the warm<br />
year, but also the finesse of Pinot. A wine with further ageing<br />
potential. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2018 Nonnenhorn Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Rosehip and cherry on the nose, also yeast, smoke and blood<br />
orange. Strong and dry on the palate, despite the sweet extract,<br />
soft and rather broad. Vivid tannins that will develop<br />
89 2019 Müller-Thurgau trocken<br />
On the nose, yeast, apple, meadow herbs and some malt.<br />
On the palate dry with good freshness, no flatterer on the<br />
palate, absolutely unpretentious, natural and direct in expression.<br />
Good tension, medium length, youthful and gastronomically-intriguing.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
642 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Württemberg | WINERIES<br />
<br />
KISTENMACHER-HENGERER<br />
Eugen-Nägele-Strasse 23-25, 74074 Heilbronn<br />
T: +49 (7131) 172354<br />
kistenmacher-hengerer-wein@t-online.de<br />
www.kistenmacher-hengerer.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 16–18.30 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 9.30–11 hrs and 13–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Hans Hengerer<br />
Contact: Hans Hengerer<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 75,000 (40 % white, 60 % red)/12 ha<br />
Hans Hengerer is a founding member of<br />
the winemakers’ grouping “Junges<br />
Schwaben” (= young Swabia). From a<br />
biological perspective, all of them are now men<br />
in their prime – but they’ve resolutely remained<br />
young at heart and mind. A sign of this is Hengerer’s<br />
finely-executed orange wine “Josephine<br />
trägt Orange.” This VDP-winemaker has never<br />
been a man of many words, he prefers to be in<br />
the vineyard among his vines or in the cellar.<br />
“I want my wines to speak for themselves,” he<br />
says and that’s just what they do. His Spätburgunder<br />
Grosses Gewächs speaks most eloquently<br />
with its silky tannins.<br />
91 2016 »Sonnenstrahl« Heilbronn Wartberg<br />
Riesling GG<br />
Powerful nose with ripe apricot and apricot tart scents, followed<br />
by floral notes and spices. Supple and charming on the<br />
palate, shows volume and also density, but also a cool vein;<br />
the acidity is ripe, yet vivid and supportive. Has potential for<br />
further maturation. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2015 Heilbronn Stiftsberg Gewann Klinge<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
Cherry, blood orange and beetroot on the nose followed by<br />
smoke and violets. A refined and spicy onset with textured, silky,<br />
precise tannins. Shows power, ample extract, suppleness, depth<br />
and elegance. Will continue to evolve. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2015 »Junges Schwaben« Heilbronn<br />
Stiftsberg Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Smoky ambience on the nose, followed by herbs, cherry and<br />
beetroot notes. On the palate there is a powerful texture,<br />
medium density which shows a vivid acid vein and mineral<br />
spiciness, with tension and also elegance. Has not yet<br />
reached the end of its possibilities. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2015 »Sonnenstrahl« Heilbronn Wartberg<br />
Lemberger GG<br />
Full, spicy bouquet with ripe blackberry, toasted aromas, tobacco,<br />
juniper berry and ethereal, herbal nuances. Voluminous,<br />
generous and dense on the palate with enormous spiciness,<br />
supported by a stately tannin structure. A long and consistent finish<br />
with lots of extract. Potential to age. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2018 »VI« Heilbronn Stiftsberg Riesling<br />
Erste Lage trocken<br />
90 2017 »VI« Heilbronn Stiftsberg Grauer<br />
Burgunder Erste Lage trocken<br />
89 2019 »von Weiss und Grau« Heilbronn<br />
trocken WB/PG/CH<br />
89 2019 »Cuvée Josephine« tr. GM/KR/MT/RR<br />
91 2015 »Frederic Edition Feuer & Flamme«<br />
Cabernet Franc trocken<br />
91 2018 »Josephine trägt Rot«<br />
Spätburgunder Auslese feinherb<br />
90 2016 »Cuvee Maximilian Edition Feuer &<br />
Flamme« trocken ME/CF/CI<br />
91 2018 »Josephine trägt Orange«<br />
Deutscher Wein trocken<br />
Dried apricot on the nose with malt and herbal notes. On<br />
the palate there is good tension, density and structure with<br />
well-developed phenolics and tannins, that show grip and<br />
volume. An animating wine that is elegant and compatible<br />
with hearty food. 13,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
643
WEINGUT KUSTERER<br />
Untere Beutau 44, 73728 Esslingen am Neckar<br />
T: +49 (711) 357909<br />
weinwelt.hmkusterer@weingut-kusterer.de<br />
www.weingut-kusterer.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Maximilian Kusterer<br />
Contact: Maximilian Kusterer<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 40,000 (25 % white, 75 % red)/6 ha<br />
In February 2020, Maximilian Kusterer<br />
was crowned “Newcomer of the Year” at<br />
the Falstaff Wine Trophy. In July he took<br />
over his family estate in Esslingen, but his parents<br />
Monika and Hans Kusterer will of course<br />
continue to work alongside him. Spätburgunder<br />
is Kusterer’s passion and this year he presented<br />
his 2018 Spätburgunder from the Esslinger<br />
Neckarhalde for the first time, made<br />
from Burgundy-sourced vines planted at a<br />
density of 10,000 per hectare. Both vineyard<br />
and vine look to the future and they are extremely<br />
promising.<br />
92 2018 Esslingen Neckarhalde<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Quite dark for a Pinot and visibly unfiltered. On the nose, finely-translucent<br />
fragrance under a blanket of eucalyptus and<br />
wet stone. On the palate there is enormous acidity, cherry<br />
fruit and a deliberately lean body. Potential, wait and see.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
Perceptible tannins on the palate, deep fruit, ripe and robust<br />
at the same time. If you are searching for easy-drinking<br />
smoothness, you have to search elsewhere.<br />
14,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2016 »Steillage« Blaufränkisch trocken<br />
92 2016 Esslingen Schenkenberg Felsen<br />
Blaufränkisch trocken<br />
Very ripe black berry fruit on the powerful nose. On the palate,<br />
however, it appears firmer. Distinctly piquant acidity<br />
structure, well-integrated wood, a calm and elegant flow.<br />
The pithiness typical of Blaufränkisch greets us from afar.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
92 2015 »Mélac« trocken ZW/CF/ME<br />
Ripe and dense aromas of black cherry, some graphite and a<br />
hint of juniper. After the first sip, then the puzzled look at the<br />
label: Is it really 14.5 percent alcohol by volume? Robust<br />
matter that easily binds the power. Elderberry, perceptible<br />
tannins, substance. 14,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
90 2015 Esslingen Schenkenberg Herzogen<br />
Zweigelt trocken<br />
Dark purple in the glass. On the nose, a very dense black berry<br />
presence that foreshadows the ripeness of the vintage.<br />
92 2017 Esslingen Neckarhalde<br />
Chardonnay trocken<br />
Very fine nose and despite barrique-ageing no pretentious<br />
wood notes at all. Cedar and pear cider tones on the palate,<br />
kept very dense, but with the consistent acidity which runs<br />
through the body of the wine. Supple and elegant, a reference<br />
and recommendation in this price range.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
644 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Württemberg | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT ANITA LANDESVATTER<br />
Schlossstrasse 15, 74336 Brackenheim<br />
T: +49 (7135) 9318781, info@weingut-landesvatter.de<br />
www.weingut-landesvatter.de<br />
Cellar Door: Fridays 14–18 hrs, Saturdays 11–16 hrs<br />
and by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Anita Landesvatter<br />
Contact: Anita Landesvatter<br />
Hectares: 6 ha<br />
Anita Landesvatter farms six hectares<br />
of vines on the Triassic Keuper and<br />
sandstone soils around the Strom- and<br />
Heuchelberg. This winemaker, who has also<br />
worked in California, presented a whole series<br />
of respectable red wines: a savoury Portugieser<br />
and a dark-berried, substantial Lemberger<br />
from the 2018 vintage. The grippy Cabenet<br />
Mitos from the 2014 vintage also turned out<br />
well while the Riesling from the Haberschlachter<br />
Dachsberg impresses with good substance.<br />
The juicy Lemberger rosé induces involuntary<br />
drinking reflexes.<br />
89 2017 Haberschlacht Dachsberg<br />
Riesling ** trocken<br />
Ripe stone fruit on the nose, followed by apple and floral<br />
notes. Mild on the palate with good substance and soft acidity,<br />
fine spice and floral notes. Riesling that is likely to cause<br />
gastronomic associations for many a sommelière and sommelier.<br />
13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2018 Diefenbach König Portugieser *** tr.<br />
Elderberry and blackberry jam with some spicy scents, followed<br />
by some blood orange, beetroot, smoke, mocha and a<br />
hint of chocolate tart. Well-built on the palate with juice and<br />
fine spice, intense and with depth, flanked by ripe and grippy<br />
tannins. A pleasant varietal expression. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2014 Diefenbach König Cabernet Mitos tr.<br />
Spicy and also malty notes on the nose, followed by dark fruit<br />
aromas of black cherry, elderberry, blackberry and a hint of<br />
pepper. Animating and grippy on the palate, hardly any note of<br />
evolution, albeit powerful and well-built with volume and tension.<br />
Purity of fruit essence and elegance. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2018 Brackenheim Zweifelberg<br />
Lemberger *** trocken<br />
Rich blackberry and black cherry aromas with a hint of vanilla<br />
and spicy, floral notes too. Powerful on the palate with<br />
good substance and spice flanked by ripe tannins, well-<br />
developed acidity and also ripe fruit notions. Will continue to<br />
mature. Potential. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
88 2019 Diefenbach König Chardonnay tr.<br />
88 2018 Diefenbach König<br />
Weissburgunder brut<br />
87 2019 Diefenbach König<br />
Gelber Muskateller trocken<br />
87 2019 Diefenbach König Kerner trocken<br />
89 2018 Brackenheim Zweifelberg<br />
Trollinger *** trocken<br />
88 2018 »44er« Diefenbach König tr. BF/AC/DF<br />
89 2019 Diefenbach König Lemberger<br />
Rosé halbtrocken<br />
Attractive scents of blackberry, black cherry and raspberry.<br />
On the palate, the fresh acidity and the clear, sweet fruit<br />
quickly harmonise. Slender rosé with a Swabian accent<br />
that should also appeal beyond the region's borders.<br />
12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
645
WEINGUT LANZ<br />
Sonnenbichlstr 8, 88149 Nonnenhorn<br />
T: +49 (8382) 888579, info@lanzwein.de<br />
www.lanzwein.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Benjamin Lanz<br />
Contact: Benjamin Lanz<br />
Farming: organic<br />
The village of Nonnenhorn on Lake Constance<br />
in the State of Bavaria, belongs to<br />
the district of Swabia and forms part of<br />
the subregion Bayerischer Bodensee of the<br />
Württemberg wine region. The Lanz family cuts<br />
through all of this confusion by simply labelling<br />
their produce as “Deutscher Wein” (German<br />
wine) – even if this puts them in the former category<br />
of ‘table wine’. This, of course, is sheer understatement<br />
because what was presented for<br />
tasting – for the first time in this guide – was absolutely<br />
convincing. Fungal-resistant varieties<br />
score here by virtue of a cool vein and skilled<br />
vinification, showing both style and character.<br />
92 2018 Lindau Entenberg Souvignier Gris tr.<br />
Some wood and floral aromas are hidden behind distinct<br />
grapefruit and rose notes. Powerful body, strength but<br />
also some substance with mineral notes, good density and<br />
almost chewy in its structure. Very good length and homogeneity.<br />
14 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 Muscaris<br />
90 2019 Cabernet Blanc trocken<br />
Sauvignon Blanc notes, lots of cassis and elderflower. On the<br />
palate, white currant, hawthorn, vegetal and floral notes dominate.<br />
Nice density and dry-smooth finish. Fresh garden vegetables<br />
will complement this wine well. 12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
91 2018 Nonnenhorn Sonnenbichl<br />
Cabertin trocken<br />
Characterised scents of very ripe dark berry fruit and the<br />
green pepper note associated with Cabernet. On the palate,<br />
lush ripeness, but not at all jammy, buffered by a piquant<br />
acidity. Fine tannins, beautiful berry fruit. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2018 Nonnenhorn Sonnenbichl Pinotin tr.<br />
Purple red in the glass. On the nose restrained fruit of the forest,<br />
undergrowth and juniper. On the palate, forest fruit nuances<br />
continue to dominate with a cool flow. Mediumbodied,<br />
but tight-knit, only a little bit of spiciness, almost<br />
seems like a mountain wine. Convincing performance.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2019 Johanniter trocken<br />
Floral aromas, elderflower, acacia and hawthorn. On the<br />
palate there is density, savoury acidity, fine fruit notes,<br />
pear-like with a light grip. A pleasantly dry and versatile<br />
wine, ideal for al fresco dining. 12 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
646 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT LASSAK<br />
Württemberg | WINERIES<br />
Besigheimer Strasse 23, 74394 Hessigheim<br />
T: +49 (7143) 408997, info@weingut-lassak.de<br />
www.weingut-lassak.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Stefanie and Fabian Lassak<br />
Contact: Stefanie and Fabian Lassak<br />
Hectares: 3 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
This is what you call a kickstart: This is just<br />
the second time that Stefanie and Fabian<br />
Lassak present their wines and snap,<br />
their estate has been nominated as one of three<br />
candidates for the Newcomer of the Year title<br />
(see page 22). The winemaking-couple farms<br />
three hectares, predominantly on terraced, steep<br />
slopes of Triassic limestone, with a focus on<br />
Lemberger, Spätburgunder and Riesling. All the<br />
wines have their very individual signature that<br />
seamlessly combines substance, liveliness, tension<br />
and fruit. Their Lemberger from the Hessigheimer<br />
Steige counts among Württemberg‘s<br />
best. Congratulations on the nomination!<br />
92 2018 Hessigheim Riesling trocken<br />
Balsamic nuances on the nose, reminiscent of a spice box. On<br />
the palate there are grippy tannins, nutty notes followed by a<br />
supple base, firm acidic backbone and minerality. Completely<br />
coherent composed wine which combines fullness with<br />
structure. Flawless craftsmanship. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
95 2018 Hessigheim Steige Lemberger tr.<br />
Aromas of elderberry and plum jam, sour cherry juice, beetroot<br />
and a hint of thyme. On the palate there is enormous extract,<br />
but very finely-staged. Lots of texture, ripe acidity, intense<br />
fruit accompaniment and great length. Has substance<br />
for ten years of bottle ageing (or more). 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
94 2018 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Wild cherry on the nose, some chocolate, sultana nuances<br />
and hints of southern Rhone, then also some herbal aromas.<br />
On the palate supple and expansive, creamy background,<br />
fine, elegant tannins, with well-preserved freshness. A multi-layered<br />
wine with good length. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork,<br />
92 2018 Lemberger trocken<br />
Sweet cherry, peppery notes, chokeberry, bitter chocolate,<br />
elderberry juice and Swabian garrigue nuances. Juicy on the<br />
palate, medium-weight in fruit and extract, grainy, tight tannins<br />
with well-integrated acidity. Ideal with grilled meat.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2018 Riesling trocken<br />
A little wood and a lot of yeast, but also fruit scents. On the<br />
palate silky and round, seamlessly-integrated phenolics<br />
with bergamot and herbal notes, very harmonious, rounded<br />
with a long finish. The warm vintage is hardly noticeable.<br />
12 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
647
WEINGUT GRAF NEIPPERG<br />
Schlosstrasse 12, 74193 Schwaigern<br />
T: +49 (7138) 941400, info@graf-neipperg.de<br />
www.graf-neipperg.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–12 hrs and<br />
13–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Bernd Supp<br />
Contact: Karl-Eugen Erbgraf zu Neipperg<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 180,000 (40 % white, 60 % red)/32 ha<br />
When Graf Neipperg produces<br />
nobly sweet wines, you can expect<br />
a vintage of the finest order. In<br />
2018, there even was a Beerenauslese of<br />
Muskateller in the range that raised expectations<br />
immediately. These, however, were surpassed:<br />
the Lembergers show the warmth of<br />
that vintage without ever getting hot under the<br />
collar. The Erste Lage Mönchsberg is a little<br />
more opulent and riper, the Ruthe GG shines<br />
with charm and creaminess, its counterpart<br />
from the Schlossberg is crunchily tight and<br />
comes with both virile texture and immense<br />
life expectancy.<br />
93 2019 Neipperg Schlossberg<br />
Weissburgunder GG<br />
Apple and balsamic notes with a hint of spontaneous fermentation<br />
savouriness. Supple approach, quite restrained<br />
and distinguished in the mid-palate, calm and self-contained,<br />
but with very good substance. A long, homogeneous<br />
vivid finish. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
96 2018 Neipperg Schlossberg Lemberger GG<br />
Sour cherry, dill, mint, but then also wild blueberry notes<br />
emerge and a whiff of menthol. On the palate, a level of rare<br />
precision, lots of juice, refined but not too soft and also<br />
grainy tannins. Extremely dense and yet unforced, insistently-tactile<br />
minerality. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 2018 Schwaigern Ruthe Lemberger GG<br />
An opulent, natural kind of fruit, cherry and damson with a<br />
little cinnamon. Very finely-extracted on the palate, downright<br />
gentle and yet with a dense extract. Mild acidity, creamy<br />
background with a full-fruity finish. Lemberger with a Mediterranean<br />
flair. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
95 2018 Neipperg Schlossberg<br />
Muskateller Beerenauslese<br />
Intense floral scents, rose tea, blade of mace, lots of perfume<br />
and a varietal typicity of passion fruit, lychee, mirabelle<br />
plums and flower meadows. Lots of juice and suppleness on<br />
the palate, good drinking flow, vivid fruit notes and a fine<br />
acidity that is well-integrated. Finely-crafted and balanced.<br />
8 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2019 Schwaigern Ruthe Riesling GG<br />
90 2019 Muskateller trocken<br />
89 2019 Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
89 2019 Weissburgunder trocken<br />
93 2018 Neipperg Schlossberg<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
92 2018 Dürrenzimmern Mönchsberg<br />
Lemberger Erste Lage trocken<br />
91 2017 Schwaigern Lemberger trocken<br />
90 2018 Lemberger trocken<br />
An archetypal varietal character on the nose, with sour<br />
cherry and ethereal herbal notes. On the palate, the elegance<br />
of an entry-level wine is taken to the extreme: juicy,<br />
fresh tannins, lively acidity and mineral nuances.<br />
Everything in balance. Great freshness.<br />
13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
648 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
PARFUM DER ERDE<br />
Württemberg | WINERIES<br />
Hoher Weg 6, 71384 Weinstadt<br />
T: +49 (170) 5659118, info@parfum-der-erde.de<br />
www.parfum-der-erde.de<br />
Winemaker: Andi Knauss<br />
Contact: Rainer Scholz<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 7,000 (50 % white, 50 % red)/2 ha<br />
Dr. Rainer Scholz and Andi Knauss are<br />
evidently stepping up a gear – and we<br />
can taste that. Not only did the bottles<br />
come with a new, chic design, the wines also<br />
seem to have a sharper focus. The 2018 Spätburgunder<br />
comes with textured depth and<br />
such intensity, freshness and fruit the like of<br />
which we have not tasted before. The Riesling<br />
comes with a slight touch of wood, silky flow<br />
and a decidedly-adult structure – while<br />
the densely-textured, almost Riesling-like<br />
Müller-Thurgau is an advertisement for the<br />
variety!<br />
91 2018 Riesling trocken<br />
Tangerine and peppery notes, lime and some herbaceous<br />
aromas. Supple onset on the palate, ripe but firm, long-lasting<br />
acidity, round flow in the mid-palate, emerging spiciness<br />
with almost caraway-like flavours on the finish. A pointed<br />
wine. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2018 »Schillerwein« trocken<br />
Salmon pink in appearance. Intense apple and sweetened red<br />
berry scents. Supple and soft on the palate, rounded fullness,<br />
delicate sweetness, cultivated acidity, medium-weight<br />
fruit and good substance. Nuances of rosehip tea, black tea<br />
and tart apple. A drinking pleasure. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
94 2018 Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Sour cherry juice, iron, cherry stones, subtle wood scents (coconut,<br />
caramel); extremely radiant fruit. On the palate there<br />
is density, grainy and artisanal tannins with a plump and<br />
smooth background. Juicy elegance, a Pinot full of pure delicacy.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2018 Regent trocken<br />
Violets, blueberry and elderberry aromas. On the palate<br />
there is a rich but also mellow extract, very softly-grounded,<br />
slowly-increasing acidity on the palate, discreetly accompanied<br />
by tactile minerality. The juicy fruit lingers on for a long<br />
time. Very good potential! 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2018 Müller-Thurgau trocken<br />
On the nose, the Riesling genes of the variety come to the<br />
fore: citrus-fresh with only a slight Muscat accent. Smooth<br />
onset on the palate, great volume, lively acidity, a creamy<br />
packed layer of the finest phenolics with some wood barrel<br />
influence. A refined wine. 12 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
649
WEINGUT REBHOF<br />
Conrad-Forster-Strasse 23, 88149 Nonnenhorn<br />
T: +49 (8382) 887116, weingut@rebhof-am-see.de<br />
www.rebhof-am-see.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Saturdays 9–12.30 hrs<br />
and 13.30–19 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Oliver and Ulrike Schaugg<br />
Contact: Oliver and Ulrike Schaugg<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 25.000 (75 % white, 25 % red)/3 ha<br />
The sense of optimism on the Bavarian<br />
portion of Lake Constance is unmistakable<br />
– and Ulrike and Oliver<br />
Schaugg from the Rebenhof estate in Nonnenhorn<br />
form part of it. While the effects of climate<br />
change on viticulture are bemoaned elsewhere,<br />
here it helps to create continuity for<br />
slender, focused cool-climate wines. Beyond<br />
that, the Schauggs are also known as specialists<br />
for the rare Souvignier Gris grape variety.<br />
Their red wines are sensitively-extracted and<br />
set store by fruit and elegance rather than<br />
power. What we have here are lake wines with<br />
a new, attractive profile.<br />
91 2018 »Réserve« Nonnenhorn Seehalde<br />
Souvignier Gris trocken<br />
Strong yellow hues. Intense aromas of ripe stone fruit, mango,<br />
gooseberry with hints of smoke. Good volume, power and<br />
also density on the palate, firm in its structure, tightly-woven.<br />
The wood and ripe acidity are well-integrated. Ageing potential.<br />
14 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2019 Nonnenhorn Seehalde<br />
Souvignier Gris trocken<br />
Powerful notes on the nose, ripe yellow gooseberry, redcurrant,<br />
apricot with toasty and floral scents. Well-built on the<br />
palate with power and substance and a lean outline. Juicy<br />
with ripe acidity and nice spiciness. Good balance and coherence.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2019 »Duett« trocken MT/SB<br />
Blend of Müller-Thurgau and Sauvignon Blanc. Scents of<br />
yeasty and reductive notes, with background gooseberry and<br />
herbal nuances. On the palate there is a lot of tension and animating<br />
freshness, but also with enough substance. Juicy,<br />
charming, spicy and young. 11,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2018 »Pinot Poesie« Nonnenhorn Seehalde<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Black cherry and toasted aromas scents, flanked by herbs<br />
like lovage and hints of beetroot. Opens on the palate with<br />
juiciness and texture, with some pronounced fruitiness, good<br />
volume, shows extract and a ripe acidity accompanied by<br />
spicy notes. Elegant! 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 Nonnenhorn Seehalde<br />
Bacchus halbtrocken<br />
87 2019 »Schaumkrönchen« trocken<br />
89 2018 Nonnenhorn Seehalde<br />
Spätburgunder trocken<br />
88 2017 »Rubin« Nonnenhorn Seehalde<br />
Regent trocken<br />
88 2019 »Renommée« Nonnenhorn Seehalde<br />
Rosé trocken<br />
89 2019 Nonnenhorn Seehalde<br />
Müller-Thurgau trocken<br />
Yellow apple scents, banana, meadow herbs and hay. A<br />
slender Müller-Thurgau with exemplary varietal typicity,<br />
lean, juicy and spicy, not an ounce too much on the composition,<br />
clarity and purity in expression. Shows the advantages<br />
of this grape variety. 11,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
650 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Württemberg | WINERIES<br />
<br />
SCHMIDT AM BODENSEE<br />
Hattnau 62, 88142 Wasserburg (Bodensee)<br />
T: +49 (8382) 943 2174<br />
weingut@schmidt-am-bodensee.de<br />
www.schmidt-am-bodensee.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 14–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 14–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Sebastian Schmidt<br />
Contact: The Schmidt family<br />
Hectares: 13 ha<br />
We have the impression that the<br />
wines made by the Schmidt family<br />
gain ever more luminosity, density<br />
and finesse. Their style aims for precision and<br />
finesse, everything is about proportion rather<br />
than oomph. Cellar master Sebastian Schmidt,<br />
with much sensitivity, knows how to get the<br />
best out of his wines. The generations work together<br />
at this estate. Sebastian and Maximilian<br />
Schmidt take on more responsibilities,<br />
supported by their parents Margret and Eugen.<br />
A convincing and strong range of wines<br />
that puts Lake Constance in the spotlight.<br />
92 2018 »Réserve« Chardonnay trocken<br />
Spice and yeast notes on the nose, with toasted aromas and<br />
smoke nuances followed by melon and quince. Combines<br />
volume with freshness, juiciness and elegance on the palate,<br />
with a subtle acid vein and a mineral base. Density and<br />
length, sensitively-balanced. 13 Vol.-%. DIAM, €€€<br />
90 2018 Chardonnay & Spätburgunder Brut<br />
91 2019 Wasserburg Weinhalde<br />
Grauer Burgunder trocken<br />
Pear and melon scents in a smoky ambience embraced by<br />
strong toasted aromas, roasted nuts, yeast and reductive<br />
notes. Elegant on the palate with well-timed power, good<br />
balance, consciously extracted. Pinot Gris that focuses on<br />
style and proportion. 13 Vol.-%. DIAM, €€<br />
92 2017 »Réserve« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Herbs and morello cherry initial scents, then blood orange, violets,<br />
beetroot, smoke and toasted aromas. Soft and supple<br />
onset, then texture and depth, good extract, densely-woven,<br />
pronounced tannins with slight spiciness. Good potential.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. DIAM, €€€<br />
91 2018 »Cuvée Noir« trocken ZW/PN<br />
Blend creating a berry scent, red fruit and smoky notes. Juicy,<br />
spicy and elegant on the palate with clear fruit expression,<br />
medium density and complexity, supple and with finely polished<br />
tannins. All about finesse, not power. 13 Vol.-%. DIAM, €€<br />
91 2019 Chardonnay trocken<br />
Subtle smoke notes on the nose, pear, mirabelle plums,<br />
plus flint and dashes from a herb garden. Clearly-defined<br />
on the palate, skilfully-extracted and balanced, clear fruit,<br />
fine tannins and acidity with mineral underpinnings. Elegant<br />
and nuanced. 12,5 Vol.-%, DIAM, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
651
WEINGUT RAINER SCHNAITMANN<br />
Untertürkheimer Strasse 4, 70734 Fellbach<br />
T: +49 (711) 574616, info@weingut-schnaitmann.de<br />
www.weingut-schnaitmann.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–12.30 hrs and<br />
13.30–17 hrs, Saturdays 9–13 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Rainer Schnaitmann<br />
Contact: Rainer Schnaitmann<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 160,000 (50 % white, 50 % red)/24 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
Great wines can often be recognised by<br />
appearing just effortless – as though<br />
nature and winemaker had conspired<br />
to this brilliance, just off the cuff. The 2018<br />
Spätburgunder GG from the Lämmler site<br />
shines with exactly that kind of effortlessness.<br />
With this masterpiece Rainer Schnaitmann<br />
may finally have scaled Mount Olympus.<br />
Likewise, his Grosse Gewächse from Riesling,<br />
fully fermented to dryness even in the hot vintage<br />
of 2018 and sometimes clocking up just<br />
12.5% ABV, possess great luminosity and entirely<br />
individual nuance. This is a winemaker<br />
at his best – and not only in Württemberg.<br />
94 2018 Uhlbach Götzenberg Riesling GG<br />
Strong yellow with greenish reflections in the glass. Extremely<br />
young on the nose, needs a lot of air contact then<br />
hints of white pepper emerge but hardly any primary fruit.<br />
Very individual aromas on the palate, cinnamon, green plum,<br />
lime and mustard flour. Really dry, unique style with elegance.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
96 Fellbach Lämmler Spätburgunder GG 2018<br />
Still very reductive on the nose with detected notes of plum<br />
and cocoa bean. On the palate there is density and a casual<br />
elegance that was not really typical nor thinkable for this<br />
German style of wine in the past. A clear lively tannic structure,<br />
dense, composed and simply brilliant. At the beginning<br />
of its journey! 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
94 Fellbach Lämmler Lemberger GG 2018<br />
Reductive nose that needs time. Background scents of clove,<br />
black berry and hints of undergrowth. Dense, deep and relaxed<br />
on the palate with highly complex, fresh and intense<br />
fruit. A completely unaggressive Lemberger with fine style.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
94 2018 »Simonroth« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Blackcurrant, clove and juniper aromas with consistent,<br />
darker type nuances. On the palate very fine undergrowth<br />
nuances with a good acidity structure and density flanked by<br />
integrated tannins. Despite the 13.5 per cent alcohol by volume<br />
and without breadth it‘s already at GG level.<br />
13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
93 Fellbach Lämmler Riesling GG 2018<br />
92 2018 Fellbach Lämmler Grauburgunder GG<br />
90 2019 »Iflinger« Fellbach<br />
Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
89 2019 »Steinwiege« Sauvignon Blanc tr.<br />
89 2019 »Steinwiege« Weissburgunder tr.<br />
88 2019 Muskattrollinger trocken<br />
92 2018 »Simonroth« Lemberger trocken<br />
90 2019 »Steinwiege«<br />
Gelber Muskateller trocken<br />
Varietal aroma on the nose, fresh grapes and rose petals.<br />
Really nice and dry with just 10,5% alcohol. Refreshing,<br />
consistent in style, ready to drink. An all-round convincing<br />
estate wine. 10,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
652 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Württemberg | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT ALBRECHT SCHWEGLER<br />
Steinstrasse 37, 71404 Korb<br />
T: +49 (7151) 3040137<br />
weingut@albrecht-schwegler.de<br />
www.albrecht-schwegler.de<br />
Cellar Door: by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Aaron Schwegler<br />
Contact: Julia Schwegler<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 50,000 (26 % white, 74 % red)/11 ha<br />
Julia and Aaron Schwegler have been<br />
most consistent in giving a new direction<br />
to this estate, since having taken over in<br />
2016 from the founder, Aaron’s father. On top<br />
of new packaging, there are now no less than<br />
seven new wines in the portfolio. Their eleven<br />
hectares of vines are farmed organically “because<br />
great wine can only be made in healthy<br />
and vigorous vineyards,” as Aaron Schwegler<br />
reports. He has given even more poise and<br />
grandeur to his wines: the Riesling shows<br />
great individuality, the superb red “Granat”<br />
and “Saphir” are of real stature!<br />
92 2019 »Alte Reben« Riesling trocken<br />
Yellow apple, stone fruit, citrus fruit and also smoky notes on<br />
the nose. On the palate there is a clear, firm outline, straight<br />
and lean with good extract, density and a layer of fine phenolics.<br />
It shows elegance and individuality, good ageing potential.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€€<br />
91 2018 Pinot Noir trocken<br />
91 2018 »Reserve« Chardonnay trocken<br />
In the confident nose melon, butternut squash, pear and<br />
toasted aromas. On the palate there is ample volume and<br />
power, medium density although the wood is still somewhat<br />
dominant. There are green walnut notes and well-integrated<br />
fine acidity, with spice on the finish. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
95 2017 »Granat« trocken ZW/CS/ME/CT<br />
Somewhat restrained nose with hints of undergrowth.<br />
Sweet fruit on the tip of the tongue, black mulberry, somewhat<br />
denser matter than the "Saphir", but an even longer<br />
wait for the optimal moment. A German heavyweight without<br />
a shadow of doubt. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€€€<br />
93 2017 »Saphir« trocken BF/ZW/CS/CF/ME/CT<br />
Scents of black-fruit and blackberries, structured; far from<br />
drinking jam despite 14 % alcohol by volume. The grape varieties<br />
also depict a Burgenland appeal (38% Blaufränkisch,<br />
28% Zweigelt). It has a demanding core with velvety tannins.<br />
The best advertisement for this style. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2017 »Beryll« trocken ZW/CF/BF/CT<br />
Ripe berry fruit on the nose and noticeable alcohol. Then<br />
much fresher on the palate, not at all overripe, but even<br />
with a cool fruit of blueberry, sour cherry and eucalyptus.<br />
Beautiful tension, homely but with a view to the far horizon.<br />
14 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
653
WEINGUT SIEGLOCH<br />
Albertviller Strasse 51, 71364 Winnenden<br />
T: +49 (7195) 177120, info@weingut-siegloch.de<br />
www.weingut-siegloch.de<br />
Cellar Door: Thursdays and Fridays 16–18.30 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 9–13 hrs<br />
Winemaker: David Siegloch, Markus Siegloch<br />
Contact: David Siegloch<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 70,000 (50 % white, 50 % red)/10 ha<br />
All those who are bored by the conventional<br />
wine scene, by reds that come<br />
across as liquid jam and whites that<br />
taste like sugary water – and if they have not<br />
yet stopped being curious, are still open-minded,<br />
have found the right address here. If you<br />
love liveliness in your wine, Weingut Siegloch<br />
is for you. Brothers David and Markus<br />
Siegloch who have run their parental estate<br />
since 2014, offer wines that are made “free<br />
from boundaries and rules.” There isn’t a Romanée-Conti<br />
equivalent among them yet, but<br />
what you can expect is colourful, diverse, exciting<br />
and full-of-character wines. Way to go!<br />
92 2018 »Sandhase« Riesling Landwein tr.<br />
Strong yellow hues, visibly unfiltered. Intense natural wine<br />
aroma, cider and cider apple peel notes with a whiff of straw.<br />
A similar intensity on the palate with ripe and apricot fruit<br />
core, perfectly dry with a savoury acidity. Phenolic, spicy,<br />
bold. 12 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2016 »Pinot R« brut nature<br />
90 2018 »Vogelfrei« Weissburgunder<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
A clearer colour than the Riesling. More wood influence, only<br />
restrained pear-like fruit and floral notes. Some phenolics,<br />
otherwise the more conventional wine when compared to<br />
the skin-fermented Riesling. Juicy, slightly oxidative, spicy.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 »Booom« Syrah Rosé Landwein tr.<br />
Should be shaken before opening, before it flows like red<br />
cherry juice into the glass. Nose of sweet raspberry, paired<br />
with slightly-fermented yeasty notes. Clearly effervescent<br />
on the palate with red-fruited delicate flavours. Unsulphured,<br />
clean, enjoyable. 11,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
90 2017 »Vogelfrei R« Lemberger Landwein tr.<br />
Elderberry jam, peony and ivy on the nose. Enormously spicy<br />
on the palate, elderberry, sloe and dark fruit nuances. Certainly<br />
the most closed, serious and indeed the most conventional<br />
wine of the Siegloch brothers. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2019 »Booom« Trollinger<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
The analytic details read like a warning, 10 percent alcohol<br />
by volume, completely dry, unfiltered, unsulphured. Elderflower<br />
and juniper scents still fairly restrained. On the palate,<br />
there is an immediate palatal reflex - tart, cool, wonderfully<br />
animating. Yes! 10 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
654 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Württemberg | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT STERNEISEN<br />
Am Hirsch 3, 73630 Remshalden<br />
T: +49 (176) 38641541, info@weingut-sterneisen.de<br />
www.weingut-sterneisen.de<br />
Cellar Door: yes<br />
Winemaker: Claudia Dorn<br />
Contact: Claudia Dorn<br />
Hectares: 3 ha<br />
What a successful debut! It was in<br />
2017 that Claudia Dorn founded<br />
her garagiste estate – in the truest<br />
sense of the word – with the fruit from half a<br />
hectare of vines. Now her production has<br />
grown to three hectares and her portfolio now<br />
spans to a textured Riesling, a Grauburgunder<br />
“Orange light” and a full-fruited Lemberger.<br />
She says that she founded her estate due to<br />
“the love of wine, the vineyards and the work<br />
in and with nature” as well as “the fascination<br />
to make her own wines, develop her own<br />
style.” We cannot wait to see where she goes<br />
next.<br />
91 2019 »Herkunft Blue Label« Riesling tr.<br />
Spicy terpene, lemon balm, bergamot and balsamic overtones.<br />
High density on the palate, supple base, taut extract,<br />
firm acidity, restrained residual sweetness, richly exciting.<br />
A mineral-fresh, full-bodied, stylish Riesling with terroir<br />
character. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
89 2018 »Dickhäuter« trocken ME/SY/BF<br />
90 2018 »Abendglut« Grauburgunder<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
A copper-coloured shimmer in the glass. Intense spontaneous<br />
fermentation notes, herbaceous but also berry fruit scents.<br />
Aerates positively. On the palate there are clear phenolics,<br />
racy acidity, with juice and a striking appearance. Combines<br />
the orange touch with fruit. 12,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 »Brücke« Rosé trocken<br />
Medium intensity in appearance with a strawberry, apple peel,<br />
peppery aroma. Good content, a layer of tannins, fresh acidity,<br />
smooth base and good clarity in the flavours of full fruit, quince<br />
and strawberry. Good mineral definition. 12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
92 2018 »Heimat« Lemberger trocken<br />
Scents of cherry, cherry stone, mint with peppery notes. On<br />
the palate dense content with fine-grained tannins, simultaneously<br />
also very juicy with ripe acidity, ample extract without<br />
flamboyancy and very intense tactile mineral components.<br />
A plump fruit finish. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2019 »Herkunft« Riesling trocken<br />
Fresh aroma, citrusy and herbaceous, also slight spontaneous<br />
fermentation notes and a whiff of mint. Balanced on<br />
the palate with firm acidity depicting a very calm Riesling<br />
style, dry, rich in substance, completely resposed and in<br />
balance. Very good length. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
655
WEINGUT DER STADT STUTTGART<br />
Breite Strasse 4, 70173 Stuttgart<br />
T: +49 (711) 21657507, timo.saier@stuttgart.de<br />
www.weingutstuttgart.de<br />
Cellar Door: Tuesdays and Wednesdays 10–17 hrs,<br />
Thursdays and Fridays 10–18 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Frank Haller<br />
Contact: Timo Saier<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 100,000 (50 % white, 50 % red)/16 ha<br />
Who would have thought – even a<br />
few short years ago – that this bastion<br />
of Trollinger, the Canstatter<br />
Zuckerle site, would one day enter the spotlight<br />
with Merlot. But the variety fits the site<br />
well: the excellent 2017 vintage from the municipal<br />
wine estate Weingut der Stadt Stuttgart<br />
leaves no doubt. All the wines are testament to<br />
the good work of Timo Saier, Frank Haller and<br />
their team: the wines are much fresher and<br />
more courageous today – but this is not just effect<br />
for effect’s sake, as is shown by their “Orange”:<br />
even traditional Stuttgart wine lovers<br />
would approve.<br />
91 2018 Bad Cannstatt Zuckerle Riesling tr.<br />
Quite complex on the nose and very fresh aromas of citrus,<br />
herbs and a hint of yeast. On the palate slender, juicy and<br />
slightly carbonated. An elegant Kabinett style on the palate,<br />
and this with extract and very good mineral definition.<br />
12 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
91 2019 »Orange« trocken<br />
Dark golden. Balsamic and intensely herbaceous on the nose,<br />
wormwood, thyme and a digestif herbal bitter note. On the<br />
palate there are powdery phenolics and immediately animating<br />
spicy peppery notes. Not too extreme in the palate structure,<br />
dense and juicy with ripe acidity. Stylish.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2017 Bad Cannstatt Zuckerle Merlot tr.<br />
Herbal-spicy aromas with notes of moss. On the palate there<br />
are grainy tannins, quite a fruity body, well-integrated acidity<br />
with juice and texture in the background. A stylish varietal<br />
style, "classically German" interpreted with restrained wood<br />
influence. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
92 2018 Stuttgart Mönchhalde<br />
Spätburgunder tr.<br />
Spontaneous fermentation notes, wild cherry and floral undertones.<br />
On the palate very dense, dry, taut and gripping with ripe<br />
acidity. A bold wine that shows the variety from its sturdy side.<br />
Despite all density, not overpowering. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
90 2016 Riesling Brut<br />
89 2018 Stuttgart Mönchhalde<br />
Weissburgunder trocken<br />
87 2019 Stuttgart Mönchhalde<br />
Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
91 2016 Spätburgunder Rosé Brut<br />
90 2017 Stuttgart Mönchhalde Syrah trocken<br />
92 2018 Stuttgart Mönchhalde<br />
St. Laurent trocken<br />
Cranberry compote, milk chocolate with a nuanced berry<br />
scent. Finely-extracted on the palate, fresh and finegrained<br />
tannins, an immediately animating herbal spiciness,<br />
which combines elegance with density. A gastronomic<br />
red to accompany game dishes or porcini mushroom risotto.<br />
13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
656 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT UNGERER<br />
Württemberg | WINERIES<br />
Harsberger Strasse 15, 74629 Pfedelbach<br />
T: +49 (7949) 940690, info@weingut-ungerer.de<br />
www.weingut-ungerer.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Thursdays 17.30–19 hrs,<br />
Fridays 14–19 hrs, Saturdays 8–13 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Karlheinz Ungerer<br />
Contact: Karlheinz Ungerer<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 70,000 (45 % white, 55 % red)/8 ha<br />
Karlheinz Ungerer made a great leap forward<br />
with his red wines from the 2018<br />
vintage: especially his generous premium<br />
blend “Saltatium Virium” of Blaufränkisch,<br />
Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Mitos and Pinot<br />
Noir which knows how to impress. As<br />
does his “Respect”, a powerful and spicy interplay<br />
of Blaufränkisch and Cabernet Mitos. An<br />
astonishing development when you consider<br />
that Ungerer started his estate with just one<br />
parcel of Trollinger! Now he grows twenty<br />
different grape varieties and surprises us with<br />
skilfully made blends.<br />
89 2018 »Grosse Tradition« Gewürztraminer tr.<br />
Pronounced dense aromas already apparent, intense, quince<br />
and lychee. The alcoholic spiciness characterises the first<br />
impression on the palate, better-integrated wood than in the<br />
Chardonnay with a slight sweetness. A powerful wine, but<br />
true to style. Ageing potential. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
88 2018 Chardonnay Barrique trocken<br />
91 2018 »Saltatium virium« tr. BF/PN/CI/CF<br />
Premium blend of Blaufränkisch, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet<br />
Mitos and Pinot Noir. Generous on the nose and palate, ripe<br />
black cherry and dark chocolate nuances with herbal notes,<br />
good substance and density with powerful, sweet extract.<br />
Generous wine. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2018 »Respekt« trocken<br />
Blend of Blaufränkisch and Cabernet Mitos, dark in colour<br />
and also on the nose. Lots of cassis, spice and depth with tobacco,<br />
cigar and a hint of soy sauce. Well-built and with power<br />
as well as volume on the palate, strong and ripe tannins.<br />
Dense and concentrated. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2018 »Unglaublich« trocken BF/DF/AC<br />
Blend of Dornfelder, Acolon and Blaufränkisch. A powerful<br />
and smoky nose with cassis, plum, pleasant spiciness, dark<br />
chocolate, espresso and fine herbs. Good balance of power<br />
and suppleness, the ripe acidity blends in well. Well done.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 »Sehnsucht«<br />
Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Floral aroma, gooseberry, but not obtrusive. Pleasantly<br />
easy to drink despite the not so insignificant alcohol. Refreshing<br />
acidity with slight residual sugar. A very pleasant<br />
and versatile varietal representative.<br />
13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
657
WEINMANUFAKTUR<br />
UNTERTÜRKHEIM<br />
Strümpfelbacher Strasse 47, 70327 Stuttgart<br />
T: +49 (711) 3363810, info@weinmanufaktur.de<br />
www.weinmanufaktur.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 9–14 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Jürgen Off<br />
Contact: Dr. Stefan Hübner<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 650,000 (40 % white, 60 % red)/85 ha<br />
Weinmanufaktur Untertürkheim, under<br />
the management of director Dr.<br />
Stefan Hübner and cellar master<br />
Jürgen Off enjoys an excellent reputation – also<br />
well beyond the confines of Württemberg.<br />
They prove that is is entirely possible for a<br />
co-operative to make individualistic wines with<br />
clearly-defined site character. Approximately<br />
80 growers cultivate 85 hectares of vineyards in<br />
sites like the Untertürkheimer Altenberg and<br />
Mönchberg, farming according to the sustainable<br />
principles of the fair`n’green sustainability<br />
certification. We can recommend every single<br />
wine. Huge compliments to Untertürkheim.<br />
92 2019 Untertürkheim Mönchberg<br />
Riesling trocken<br />
Scents of ripe and yellow-fruits, mirabelle plums, apricot<br />
compote and some pepper and lime. On the palate suppleness<br />
and nerve, lots of texture, mineral background, not too<br />
sweetly-tuned, gains more and more depth with every sip.<br />
Very good sinlge-site Riesling. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
dose of sandy tannins, homogeneous fruit and an acidity<br />
which carries the body to a creamy finish. A substantial, cosy<br />
representation of the vintage. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2018 Trollinger*** trocken<br />
im Holzfass gereift<br />
92 2018 »Orange« trocken PG/CH<br />
Dark rosé colour in the glass. Fragrant scents of rosehip and<br />
orange zest with floral tones. On the palate full-bodied, powerful<br />
tannins, mineral notes with Burgundy berry aromas. A<br />
firm but also ripe acidity gives structure and length.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2018 Untertürkheim Altenberg<br />
Cabernet Franc trocken<br />
A Loire-scented fragrance, blackcurrant, blackcurrant leaf,<br />
tea, graphite, dark raspberry and a dash of menthol. On the<br />
palate there is a defined wood imprint, dense, grainy but impeccably<br />
ripe tannins with mineral underpinnings. A very<br />
good and solid representation of the variety. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2018 Untertürkheim Mönchberg<br />
Lemberger trocken<br />
Chocolatey also black cherry scents followed by buttery<br />
notes, new wood and herbs. The palate encounters a good<br />
90 2019 Grauburgunder trocken<br />
Honey candy and chestnut puree on the nose. On the palate,<br />
a straightforward structure with firm acidity, mineral<br />
background with good substance, but also with volume. A<br />
rock-solid Pinot Gris that shows the variety at an excellent<br />
level. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
658 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Württemberg | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT VINÇON-ZERRER<br />
Heilbronner Strasse 50, 75038 Oberderdingen<br />
T: +49 (7045) 761, weingut@vincon-zerrer.de<br />
vincon-zerrer.de<br />
Cellar Door: Wednesdays and Fridays 10–18 hrs,<br />
Thursdays 10–20 hrs, Saturdays 10–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Benjamin Zerrer<br />
Contact: Benjamin Zerrer<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 70,000 (40 % white, 60 % red)/11 ha<br />
Farming: organic<br />
Vinçon-Zerrer is a new name in this<br />
guide. Located in the west of Württemberg,<br />
Benjamin Zerrer took the<br />
estate over from his parents in 2017. His new<br />
vintage impresses with its tasteful packaging,<br />
is certified organic, hand-harvested, fermented<br />
spontaneoulsy and bottled without filtration.<br />
He even bottled his Lemberger “Hans & Gloria”<br />
without adding sulphur dioxide. This has<br />
resulted in wines that set their store entirely by<br />
purity – especially the reds. Without any hint<br />
of residual sweetness and dense with fruit,<br />
they almost have a touch of austerity. A real<br />
discovery.<br />
90 2019 »Vom Löss« Weissburgunder<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
Light woody tones on the nose, but not dominating with the<br />
ripe pear note remaining in the foreground. Ripe, balanced<br />
and typical for the variety followed by a good acidity structure<br />
and fine phenolics in the finish. Lots of substance, good<br />
craftsmanship and not at all polarising. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2018 »Schilfsandstein« Lemberger<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
On the nose very dark, very ripe, dense blackberry and black<br />
plum, but in a pleasantly subtle way. On the palate, the wine<br />
is kept in the dense and deeply fruity estate style. The alcohol<br />
brings some spiciness with lively tannins. Potential.<br />
14 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2018 »Hans & Gloria« Blaufränkisch<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
Different name, different label, unsulphured. Slightly animalistic<br />
scent with pure blackcurrant notes in the background.<br />
On the palate, dense, dark berry, tannic, not complex,<br />
but absolutely clean, very connected to the fruit. Consistent<br />
and unadorned. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2018 »Gipskeuper« Spätburgunder<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
Nose clearly more fruity and open than the estate's Spätburgunder,<br />
with a darker black cherry tendency. Elegant flow on<br />
the palate, integrated wood, kept calm and dense. Beautiful<br />
fruit presence with a certain coolness. Pairs delightfully with<br />
food. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 »Gipskeuper« Sauvignon Blanc<br />
Landwein trocken<br />
89 2019 Weissburgunder Landwein trocken<br />
88 2019 Riesling Landwein trocken<br />
87 2019 Sauvignon Blanc Landwein trocken<br />
90 2018 »Gipskeuper Cabernet Cuvée«<br />
Landwein trocken CDo/CD<br />
90 2018 Lemberger Landwein trocken<br />
88 2018 Spätburgunder Landwein trocken<br />
89 2018 »Façon« Landwein tr. BP/CD/DF<br />
The majority of this blend is Portugieser, which has become<br />
rare in German wine guides. Reductive nose with<br />
dark berry fruit. A good impression of ripeness, pronounced<br />
fruitiness, spicy blackberry and pleasant spice. Good value<br />
for money. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
659
WEINGUT WACHTSTETTER<br />
Michelbacher Strasse 8, 74397 Pfaffenhofen<br />
T: +49 (7046) 329, info@wachtstetter.de<br />
www.wachtstetter.de<br />
Cellar Door: Thursdays and Fridays 9–12 hrs and<br />
13.30–18 hrs, Saturdays 9–16 hrs and by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Rainer Wachtstetter<br />
Contact: Rainer Wachtstetter<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 130,000 (35 % white, 65 % red)/20 ha<br />
Rainer Wachtstetter shows a rare talent<br />
for Lemberger. His entry-level wine “Felix”<br />
already is a plea for this variety and<br />
merits special recommendation. His Grosses<br />
Gewächs from the Spitzenberg is densely-woven<br />
and delicious. But this winemaker – who farms<br />
20 hectares of vines on the south-facing slopes of<br />
the Heuchelberg and belongs to the winemaking<br />
ensemle “Junges Schwaben” – also know how<br />
to make Riesling, Rieslaner or Trollinger. The<br />
family also runs the “Adler” inn – dining there is<br />
like time travel to an epoch of Swabian hostelry<br />
culture that by now has almost disappeared.<br />
Highly recommended!<br />
92 2017 Pfaffenhofen Mühlberg Riesling GG<br />
Multi-layered nose with stone fruit, apple, fine smoke, apricot<br />
and flowers. On the palate, a powerful structure builds up<br />
with good extract and volume, spicy and with good density.<br />
A rather structured Riesling that will continue to develop.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2019 Rieslaner Auslese<br />
Clear, pale honey yellow hues. Candied fruit aroma, lemon,<br />
grapefruit, apricot and a hint of spice. Delicate flowers, orange<br />
blossom with a lively sweetness on the palate, held together<br />
by vivid acidity with peach juice and orange zest<br />
notes. Balanced and well-composed. 9,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2018 »Alte Reben Pfaffenhofen<br />
Trollinger trocken<br />
94 2016 Pfaffenhofen Spitzenberg<br />
Lemberger GG<br />
The dark fruit, black cherry and blackberry, is embraced by<br />
herbs and smoke. Densely-woven and consistent on the palate<br />
with high qualitative ripe tannins, combined with spice<br />
and elegance. Delicate and lively despite all the concentration.<br />
Good perspective. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2017 »Junges Schwaben« Pfaffenhofen<br />
Hohenberg Lemberger trocken<br />
Concentrated fragrance of blackberry and mulberry, strong<br />
toasted aromas and smoked meat. Shows power, extract and<br />
good density on the palate, still marked by barrique ageing,<br />
juice, spice and texture. Good length and consistency. A Lemberger<br />
with a long life expectancy. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2018 »Felix« Pfaffenhofen Lemberger<br />
trocken<br />
Vivid blackberry and black cherry scents, toasty aromas,<br />
charcoal, herbs and black pepper. Shows substance and<br />
concentration on the palate, but also pure fruit, spiciness<br />
and juiciness. An excellent introduction to the world of<br />
Lemberger! 13,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
660 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINFACTUM<br />
Württemberg | WINERIES<br />
Rommelstrasse 20, 70376 Stuttgart<br />
T: +49 (711) 5422, info@weinfactum.de<br />
www.weinfactum.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 9–14 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Thorsten Klimek<br />
Contact: Beate Nowak<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 500,000 (30 % white, 70 % red)/51 ha<br />
Cellar master Thorsten Klimek wants to<br />
impress with a clear-cut portfolio – this<br />
is what this cooperative in Stuttgart’s<br />
wine-loving district of Bad Cannstatt reports.<br />
And they manage to do so beautifully: with<br />
their stylistic renewal, Weinfactum has become<br />
a shining example among Württemberg’s<br />
cooperatives. The wines no longer have<br />
superfluous fat and they have well and truly<br />
bid good-bye to the gluggable style of yesteryear.<br />
With their “Pinot noir ***” and their<br />
“Edition 1923’’ they are moving towards the<br />
regional top.<br />
90 2019 Riesling *** trocken<br />
Lemon balm, yellow plum, mint and then also spicier aromas<br />
of caraway and cardamom. Strictly built on the palate, with a<br />
pithy structure and crunchy extract. A Riesling for the medium<br />
or long haul. Still closed at the moment, but with good<br />
substance. 12 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2018 »Edition 1923« *** trocken BF/ME/CS<br />
Complex cherry fruit, herbal and with a chocolatey accompaniment,<br />
some nougat scents too. Dense tannins, mellow<br />
grain, with smooth foundations, ripe acidity and good in density<br />
and depth. Finishes with juicy, warm fruit and powerful<br />
mineral notes. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
91 2018 Pinot noir *** trocken<br />
Some woody scents, coconut, milk chocolate, fig, redcurrants<br />
and herbs. Dense tannic impression, powdery in quality<br />
with mild acidity, but concludes with a juicy and still quite elegant<br />
finish with mineral undertones. Taut and in need of<br />
maturation. 13 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2018 Lemberger *** trocken<br />
A very expressive cherry fruit scent, open and slight woody-complimented<br />
note, caramel sweets and a whiff of vanilla. On the palate<br />
there are mellow dense tannins, ripe acidity and strong alcohol.<br />
In the finish again an intense and even somewhat "loud"wild<br />
cherry fruit. A powerful vintage expression. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 Grauburgunder ** trocken<br />
89 2019 Riesling ** trocken<br />
88 2019 Chardonnay ** trocken<br />
88 NV »Travertin Cuvée Weiss« ** tr. KR/CH<br />
88 2016 »Condistat Sekt Cuvée« brut<br />
89 NV »Travertin Cuvée Rosé« ** trocken<br />
89 NV »Travertin Cuvée Rot« ** trocken<br />
CD/PN/BF/CS<br />
90 2019 Grauer Burgunder *** trocken<br />
Strong colour with an opulent bouquet of pear compote,<br />
Williams pear and a hint of marzipan. Taut on the palate,<br />
lots of juiciness, crispy acidity, dense and at the same time<br />
also mineral with light phenolics. A sturdy Pinot Gris with<br />
good substance. 13 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
661
COLLEGIUM WIRTEMBERG EG<br />
Württembergstrasse 230, 70327 Stuttgart<br />
T: +49 (711) 32777580, info@collegium-wirtemberg.de<br />
www.collegium-wirtemberg.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 9–12 hrs and<br />
13–18 hrs, Saturdays 9–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Thomas Eckard<br />
Contact: Martin Kurrle<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 2,000,000 (32% white, 68% red)/160 ha<br />
Once again we can attest to a great performance<br />
by the 215 cooperative<br />
members who tend their vines in the<br />
villages Rotenberg and Uhlbach. The Rieslings<br />
have always been totally reliable here, but this<br />
year it was the reds from the 2016 vintage that<br />
took the top spots. The Pinot Noir has depth<br />
and length, the “Réserve Cuvée” weaves Lemberger<br />
and Bordeaux-varieties into a tapestry<br />
of fruit and texture. If there is one thing we<br />
could fault, it is more time for the white “Reserve”<br />
wines before bottling. The 2019 are incredibly<br />
youthful.<br />
90 2019 »Réserve« Chardonnay trocken<br />
Scents of corn, hay and a few subtle spicy-wood notes. On the<br />
palate there is pithy, vintage-typical acidity and good substance,<br />
still a little carbon dioxide from the fermentation<br />
with good mineral notes. All in all still a bit young for a<br />
Réserve quality - but with time could mellow into one.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2016 »Réserve« Spätburgunder trocken<br />
Aromas of smoky new wood, fig and small red berries. On the<br />
palate, a lively, long-lasting acidity, animating juiciness with<br />
insistent tactile mineral undertones, a nice interplay on the<br />
palate, only the woody nuances need to mellow a little bit<br />
longer. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2016 »Réserve Cuvée Wirtemberg«<br />
trocken ME/CF/CS<br />
Scents of ripe blackcurrant, tobacco, fir tree resin and roasted<br />
coffee. Supple and broad on the palate, followed by sweet<br />
fruit with seamlessly-integrated acidity and clear mineral<br />
undertones. Fruit and woody nuances flourish on the animating<br />
finish. 14 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
90 2017 »Salucci« trocken<br />
PN/SY/CS/ME/CU/CF<br />
Aroma of cassis, mint, herbs and a hint of smoked bacon. Taut,<br />
slightly grainy tannins, firm acidity while the core of the wine<br />
still seems compact and tangy. Good, dense fruity finish, accompanied<br />
by tactile mineral perceptions. 13,5 Vol.-%. screwcap, €<br />
89 2019 »Alte Reben« Riesling trocken<br />
89 2019 »Réserve« Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
88 2019 »325 n.n.« Weissburgunder<br />
Chardonny trocken<br />
87 2019 »Cuvée Blanc« trocken SB/KR/PG<br />
89 2017 »Réserve« Syrah trocken<br />
89 2018 »289 n.n.« Lemberger trocken<br />
88 2017 Pinot Noir trocken<br />
89 2019 Grauburgunder trocken<br />
Scents of yeast, slightly spicy notes of grass clippings, then<br />
also Pinot berry nuances. Silky, smooth on the palate, with<br />
very fine carbon dioxide regulated fermentation tones and<br />
a vivacious transition into the well-enriched mineral finish.<br />
Proportioned and tasty. 13 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
662 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
Württemberg | WINERIES<br />
<br />
WEINGUT WÖHRWAG<br />
Grunbacher Strasse 5,<br />
70327 Stuttgart-Untertürkheim<br />
T: +49 (711) 331662, info@woehrwag.de<br />
www.woehrwag.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 8–12.30 hrs and<br />
14–18.30 hrs, Saturdays 9–14 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Hans-Peter Wöhrwag, Carsten Kämpf<br />
Contact: Christin Wöhrwag<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 150,000 (60 % white, 40 % red)/20 ha<br />
There is much movement at the Wöhrwag<br />
estate: son Philipp now works in<br />
the Pfalz but in his place daughter Johanna<br />
is now on board. She describes her field<br />
of influence thus: “I learned a lot at various<br />
wine estates and now I am regaling my father<br />
with innovative ideas – from the cellar to the<br />
top vineyard sites. Calm was yesterday.” However,<br />
with parents like Christin and Hans-Peter<br />
Wöhrwag, imagination and lateral thinking<br />
come naturally. We tasted a strong range of<br />
wines, including the complex red wine blend<br />
“X”, the grippy Cabernet Franc and elegant,<br />
expressive white wines.<br />
92 2019 Untertürkheim Herzogenberg<br />
Weissburgunder GG<br />
Powerful aroma of toasted nuances, ripe mirabelle plum, citrus<br />
fruit, almond and yellow blossom. On the palate,<br />
full-bodied and firmly-built with texture, good density and<br />
well-integrated alcohol. A wine vinified for substance and<br />
longevity with charm. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
dark sweetish fruit, nice spiciness with peppery notes. Good<br />
amount of lively tannins. Young, talented and with perspective.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2018 Untertürkheim Herzogenberg<br />
Merlot trocken<br />
91 2019 Untertürkheim Herzogenberg<br />
Sauvignon Blanc Erste Lage trocken<br />
Intense nose of green bell peppers and tropical fruit, papaya<br />
and mango, plus gooseberry and tomato leaf notes. On the<br />
palate defined and intense fruit, elegant and juicy, also pleasant<br />
minerality. A good bundling with slender contours. Persistent<br />
on the palate. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
93 2018 »X« Rotweincuvée trocken CS/ME/CF<br />
Blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc.<br />
Powerful, spicy nose with cassis and blackberry, fine spicy<br />
wood notes and a hint of black tea. On the palate there is<br />
good substance and volume, shows density, complexity and<br />
depth. Distinctive tannins, great potential.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2018 Cabernet Franc trocken<br />
Scents of juniper berry, bay leaf, dark cherries, fine pepper<br />
and smoke. On the palate powerful with texture and density,<br />
90 2019 »Goldkapsel« Untertürkheim<br />
Herzogenberg Riesling Erste Lage tr.<br />
Attractive scent of ripe stone fruit, peach and apricot with<br />
pineapple and floral-spicy notes. On the palate slenderlybuilt,<br />
elegant and with style, juiciness and minerlity. The<br />
filigree acidity is well-integrated. Spicy phenolic notes on<br />
the finish. 12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €€<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
663
WEINGUT<br />
HERZOG VON WÜRTTEMBERG<br />
Schloss Monrepos, 71634 Ludwigsburg<br />
T: +49 (7141) 225525, weingut@hofkammer.de<br />
www.weingut-wuerttemberg.de<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 10–12 hrs and<br />
13–18 hrs, Saturdays 10–16 hrs<br />
Winemaker: Moriz Just<br />
Contact: Claudia Krügele<br />
Bottles/Hectares: 240,000 (48 % white, 52 % red)/40 ha<br />
The Dukes of Württemberg have cultivated<br />
vines since the 13the century – no wonder<br />
that Michael Herzog von Württemberg<br />
can avail himself of vineyard sites in almost all of<br />
Württemberg’s subregions – from valley of the<br />
Rems to that of the Neckar. The ‘Ducissa’, thus<br />
turns out in a style that befits her ducal status:<br />
clothed in noble texture, she combines a down-toearth<br />
nature (i.e. Lemberger) with cosmopolitan<br />
spirit (i.e. Merlot and Cabernet) and combines inner<br />
strength with grace. The entry-level wines,<br />
like the Sauvignon Blanc, are a little less complex,<br />
but when it comes to poise and drinking pleasure<br />
they play in the same league as the top wines.<br />
91 2019 Stetten Brotwasser Steingrube<br />
Riesling GG<br />
Fresh citrus zest, kumquat, plus mineral notes of damp sand.<br />
A soft and supple onset, a layer of phenolics, ripe acidity, medium<br />
weight in the extract but well-defined mineral components.<br />
Elegant. 12,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
expression. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2018 Mundelsheim Käsberg<br />
Spätburgunder GG<br />
94 2016 »Ducissa« trocken BF/ME/CS<br />
Complex fresh fruit, plum, cranberry, cherry, pepper and an<br />
overtone of menthol. On the palate there is fine-grained tannins,<br />
powerful and full, ripe acidity, slight wood-accompanied<br />
notes and well-embedded minerality. Long homogeneous<br />
finish. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
92 2018 Untertürkheim Mönchberg<br />
Lemberger GG<br />
Coffee and nougat on the nose (from the wood), in addition<br />
slightly peppery and minty aromas and a dash of cherry.<br />
Dense on the palate, fine-grained to sandy tannins, accompanied<br />
by good acidity and chalky mineral tones. Good stature,<br />
good length. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
90 2018 Mundelsheim Käsberg Syrah trocken<br />
Smoky new wood, plus Syrah spicy notes from dried meat to<br />
dark chocolate and sultana with a whiff of Amarena cherry.<br />
Soft and supple on the palate, almost expansive, but then<br />
rather medium in extract and intensity of fruit. A soft varietal<br />
90 2019 Sauvignon Blanc trocken<br />
Fresh fruity scents, grapefruit, lime, kiwi and a hint of bell<br />
pepper. On the palate rather light in extract with a<br />
long-lasting stable acidity and a spritz of carbon dioxide.<br />
Smooth finish, a refreshing varietal. 11,5 Vol.-%, cork, €€<br />
664 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WEINGUT ZIPF<br />
Württemberg | WINERIES<br />
Vorhofer Strasse 4, 74245 Löwenstein<br />
T: +49 (7130) 6165, weingut@zipf.com<br />
www.zipf.com<br />
Cellar Door: Mondays through Fridays 13–18.30 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 9–15.30 hrs or by appointment<br />
Winemaker: Jürgen Zipf<br />
Contact: Jürgen Zipf<br />
Hectares: 13 ha<br />
Taste requires individuality,” says Jürgen<br />
Zipf from Löwenstein who has made a<br />
good name for himself as a member of<br />
the wine group “Junges Schwaben” (i.e. young<br />
Swabia). Zipf focuses on traditional and intense,<br />
non-mechanised labour in the vineyard<br />
while “artifice in the cellar” is frowned upon –<br />
no fining and filtration here. Ever since 2016,<br />
all the wines have been fermented spontaneously.<br />
His “Junges Schwaben” blend in particular<br />
impresses with power and charm and<br />
the Lemberger from the Wohlfahrtsberg site<br />
snaps at its heels. We also like that Zipf continues<br />
to champion Silvaner.<br />
90 2018 Löwenstein Wohlfahrtsberg<br />
Riesling trocken ***<br />
Ripe apple, peach and pineapple scents with a dash of petrol,<br />
smoke and floral notes like leafy greens. On the palate there<br />
is good volume and a firm, powerful structure with restrained<br />
fruit; flanked by supporting ripe acidity. Pepper<br />
notes in the finish, potential. 13 Vol.-%. screwcap, €€<br />
and consistent, the tannins are ripe and gripping. Good potential.<br />
13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
89 2019 Löwenstein Wohlfahrtsberg<br />
Weissburgunder trocken ***<br />
90 2015 Riesling brut<br />
Ripe peach and mango aromas, citrus fruit, yellow flowers<br />
and a hint of brioche. On the palate there is good freshness<br />
and crispy acidity, playful mousse with fine sparkles. Slenderly-built<br />
sparkling wine with charm. A versatile gastronomic<br />
companion. 12 Vol.-%. cork, €€<br />
92 2015 »Junges Schwaben« Löwenstein<br />
Wohlfahrtsberg Cuvée trocken BF/PN/ME<br />
Cassis and peppers initially, followed by blackberry and spicy,<br />
floral accents. Well-balanced on the palate, the powerful<br />
body is coated with velvety charm, soft and qualitative tannins.<br />
Long finish and consistent. 13,5 Vol.-%. cork, €€€<br />
91 2016 Löwenstein Wohlfahrtsberg<br />
Lemberger trocken ***<br />
Powerful and spicy aroma, blackberry, juniper berry, black<br />
forest ham, black cherry and also wet leather. Dry on the palate<br />
with volume, power and tension, structurally-marked<br />
90 2019 »Alte Reben« Löwenstein<br />
Wohlfahrtsberg Silvaner trocken ***<br />
Ripe pear and yellow apple on the powerful nose, along<br />
with meadow herbs, spices and toasted aromas. On the<br />
palate medium-bodied, juicy and with a nice spiciness and<br />
clear fruit expression, with pear and also notes of meadow<br />
herbs. A balanced and compact Silvaner.<br />
12,5 Vol.-%, screwcap, €<br />
Red Wine Rosé Wine White Wine Orange Wine Sweet Wine falstaff -Tip<br />
665
Tübingen<br />
PASSIONATE<br />
HOSTS<br />
TOGETHER WITH THE REGION’S WINEMAKERS – ABSOLUTE EXPERTS<br />
WHEN IT COMES TO GASTRONOMY – FALSTAFF HAS CAREFULLY CHOSEN<br />
AND COLLATED THE BEST ADDRESSES FOR EATING,<br />
DRINKING AND STAYING.<br />
Hirsch<br />
Genusshandwerk <br />
75378<br />
Bad Liebenzell<br />
Andreas Sondej sees himself as a craftsman of<br />
pleasure, which he also shows when distilling<br />
first-class brandies. At the stove, he follows the<br />
rhythm of the seasons; his regional creations always<br />
carry a touch of northern cuisine. An exciting<br />
address!<br />
Marktwirtschaft<br />
74354 Besigheim<br />
Frank Land appreciates down-to-earth cooking,<br />
rooted in local tradition. For the ambitious innkeeper,<br />
the dishes simply have to be well-made<br />
and, above all, taste good. That's what's on offer<br />
at this cosy inn.<br />
Monbachstrasse 47<br />
+49 (7052) 2367<br />
www.hirsch-genusshandwerk.de<br />
<br />
WÜRTTEMBERG<br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 17 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
86<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
Marktplatz 2<br />
+49 (7143) 9099091<br />
www.marktwirtschaft-besigheim.de<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Eisele<br />
666 falstaff<br />
Wine Guide Germany 2021
Maerz <br />
WÜRTTEMBERG | INNS AND RESTAURANTS<br />
74321 Bietigheim-<br />
Bissingen<br />
Homesickness and wanderlust – these twin emotions<br />
inform this cosy restaurant run by brothers<br />
Benjamin and Christian Maerz. Local produce<br />
supplemented by ingredients from far and wide is<br />
the secret behind their excellent cooking.<br />
Schwabenstuben <br />
71691 Freiberg<br />
am Neckar<br />
The cosy Schwabenstuben lives up to its name. Alexander<br />
Neuberth and his crew celebrate warm<br />
hospitality and the homely cooking delivers regional<br />
and seasonal specialities, which has even the<br />
locals going into raptures.<br />
Kronenbergstrasse 14<br />
+49 (7142) 42004<br />
www.maerzundmaerz.de<br />
Food: 44 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
Marktplatz 5<br />
+49 (7141) 75037<br />
www.restaurant-schwabenstuben.de<br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 17 | 20<br />
Drinks: 17 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
<br />
88<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
<br />
85<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
Villino<br />
88131 Bodolz<br />
For almost 30 years, this hotel and restaurant<br />
have been a reliable haven of good taste. In the<br />
stylish and elegant interior, the food is inventive<br />
and creative, and the first-class cuisine effortlessly<br />
manages the balancing act between gourmet classics<br />
and contemporary style.<br />
Beichtstuhl<br />
74072 Heilbronn<br />
Indulgence is worth every sin – such is the fitting<br />
motto of the ‘Beichtstuhl’, or ‘confessional’. A<br />
special feature for wine lovers is the ‘Kleine Weinprobe’,<br />
where a quartet of selected white, rosé and<br />
red wines from renowned regional wineries is served.<br />
Mittenbuch 6<br />
+49 (8382) 93450<br />
www.villino.de<br />
Fischergasse 9<br />
+49 (7131) 2758985<br />
www.beichtstuhl-hn.de<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Lanz<br />
Aldinger's<br />
70734 Fellbach<br />
Susanne and Volker Aldinger are the third generation<br />
to run this friendly family business, known<br />
for its fine cooking and warm hospitality. Not<br />
only international classics are on the varied menu,<br />
regional specialities also feature prominently.<br />
Recommended by: Kistenmacher-Hengerer<br />
Ratskeller <br />
74072 Heilbronn<br />
Michael Ochmainski's cooking is wonderfully<br />
versatile. This traditional Heilbronn restaurant<br />
serves more than just Swabian specialities. International<br />
classics are also part of the home-style<br />
menu, as well as tasty game dishes during the hunting<br />
season.<br />
Schmerstrasse 6<br />
+49 (711) 582037<br />
www.aldingers-restaurant.de<br />
Recommended by: Collegium Wirtemberg<br />
Am Marktplatz 7<br />
+49 (7131) 84628<br />
www.ratskeller-heilbronn.eu<br />
<br />
Food: 41 | 50<br />
Service: 17 | 20<br />
Drinks: 16 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
82<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
80–84<br />
85–89<br />
90–94<br />
95–100 Points<br />
667
Jagstmühle<br />
74673 Heimhausen<br />
The heart of the old mill is the stylishly-decorated<br />
restaurant with its lovely country cooking using<br />
predominantly local produce. You should definitely<br />
try the Mäusdorfer Landgockel and the fillet<br />
of Hohenlohe beef.<br />
Alte Vogtei<br />
73257 Köngen<br />
Everything is done in best Schwaben fashion, then<br />
there are seasonal highlights like game weeks or<br />
asparagus dinners. All this fits perfectly with the<br />
ambience of the historic building, which dates<br />
back to the 16th century. In summer, you can sit<br />
comfortably in the herb garden.<br />
Jagstmühlenweg 10<br />
+49 (7938) 90300<br />
www.jagstmuehle.de<br />
Oberdorfstrasse 15<br />
+49 (7024) 5027474<br />
www.vogtei-koengen.de<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Gaufer<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Johannes B.<br />
Zum<br />
goldenen Lamm <br />
75203<br />
Königsbach-Stein<br />
Fresh fish, seafood, truffles and oysters as well as<br />
organic meat from the region are served in the old<br />
half-timbered house. The seasonal Schwaben-Baden<br />
cuisine is accompanied by a large selection of<br />
German and international wines.<br />
Restaurant<br />
Bundschuh <br />
97999 Igersheim<br />
A lovely walk from the Bad Mergentheim spa<br />
park takes us to the golf club. Chef Andreas Bundschuh<br />
focuses here on preparing the best produce,<br />
sourced from farms in the surrounding area. Generous<br />
selection of regional wines by the glass.<br />
Marktplatz 2<br />
+49 (7232) 1776<br />
www.lammstein.de<br />
<br />
Lange am Markt<br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 17 | 20<br />
Ambience: 9 | 10<br />
87<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
71634 Ludwigsburg<br />
The restaurant boasts a great view of Ludwigsburg's<br />
market square, while friendly chef Andrea<br />
Lange also runs her cookery school here. The<br />
menu convinces with seasonal specialities and<br />
also offers a small, but fine selection of wines.<br />
Erlenbachtalstrasse 36<br />
+49 (7931) 8066<br />
www.andreas-bundschuh.com<br />
<br />
Food: 42 | 50<br />
Service: 17 | 20<br />
Drinks: 15 | 20<br />
Ambience: 7 | 10<br />
81<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
Marktplatz 4<br />
+49 (7141) 2390445<br />
www.kochschule-lange.de<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Eisele<br />
668 falstaff<br />
Wine Guide Germany 2021
Museumsstuben<br />
WÜRTTEMBERG | INNS AND RESTAURANTS<br />
74172 Neckarsulm<br />
The Museumsstuben proves how stylishly and<br />
elegantly historic buildings can be furnished. The<br />
symbiosis has worked out perfectly and, likewise,<br />
the kitchen also combines what is traditional and<br />
modern, always with a dash of creativity. Very friendly<br />
staff!<br />
Belsers <br />
72622 Nürtingen<br />
In a prime location directly on the market square,<br />
Christian Belser's restaurant is a popular meeting<br />
place at lunchtime and in the evening for anyone<br />
who appreciates unfussy and Mediterranean-inspired<br />
cuisine. The cooking is varied and based on<br />
quality ingredients.<br />
Urbanstrasse 13<br />
+49 (7132) 6472<br />
www.museumsstuben.de<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Holzapfel<br />
Haus am See<br />
88149 Nonnenhorn<br />
Uncompromising gastronomic craft, authentic<br />
and connected to the region – you will look in vain<br />
for sea fish and the like. Chef Valentin Knörle's<br />
creations have their origins in the surroundings of<br />
Lake Constance. The same goes for the wines!<br />
Brunnsteige 15<br />
+49 (7022) 7195860<br />
www.belsers.com<br />
<br />
Zur Linde <br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 17 | 20<br />
Drinks: 17 | 20<br />
Ambience: 9 | 10<br />
86<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
72124 Pliezhausen-<br />
Dörnach<br />
The selection of wines by the glass delights, as do<br />
the creations from the kitchen. We simply have to<br />
mention the very experienced sommelier Irene<br />
Goldbach, who has turned Landgasthaus Linde<br />
into one of the most exciting wine bars in the country.<br />
In summer, there is access to a lovely terrace.<br />
Uferstrasse 23<br />
+49 (8382) 988510<br />
www.hausamsee-nonnenhorn.de<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Lanz<br />
Schönbuchstrasse 8<br />
+49 (7127) 890066<br />
www.linde-doernach.de<br />
<br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 17 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
86<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
Torkel<br />
88149 Nonnenhorn<br />
Colourful creations, full of flavour, are the expression<br />
of a good-humoured cuisine that really pulls<br />
out the stops when it comes to the fine-dining<br />
menu. This is accompanied by local and international<br />
wines. Afterwards, you can continue to drink<br />
in comfort at the hotel bar.<br />
Pfauen<br />
73614 Schorndorf<br />
The stylish boutique hotel also boasts a cosy but<br />
elegant restaurant, offering an exciting liaison<br />
between international and regional cuisine. Nico<br />
Burkhardt succeeds admirably in this balancing<br />
act; his delicious cooking is mainly based on local<br />
produce.<br />
Seehalde 14<br />
+49 (8382) 98620<br />
www.hotel-torkel.de<br />
Höllgasse 9<br />
+49 (7181) 6699010<br />
www.pfauen-schorndorf.de<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Lanz<br />
Recommended by: Weingut Escher<br />
80–84<br />
85–89<br />
90–94<br />
95–100 Points<br />
669
Reber's Pflug <br />
74523<br />
Schwäbisch Hall<br />
Hans-Harald Reber has a knack for ensuring firstclass<br />
meat; his dry-aged specialities belong in the<br />
‘Champions League’ category. What is more, the<br />
chef offers a whole range of creative dishes, with a<br />
well-stocked cellar to match.<br />
Weckriedener Strasse 2<br />
+49 (791) 931230<br />
www.rebers-pflug.de<br />
<br />
Bauernstuben<br />
Ochsen Post<br />
<br />
Food: 45 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 19 | 20<br />
Ambience: 9 | 10<br />
91<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
75233 Tiefenbronn<br />
The Bauernstuben is a quaint place with lots of<br />
wood and a warming tiled stove. The kitchen specialises<br />
in meat dishes, even tripe finds a<br />
well-deserved place here. Wines from Germany,<br />
France and Switzerland and a beautiful selection<br />
of sparkling wines and Champagne.<br />
Brunnenstuben <br />
71334 Waiblingen<br />
Petra Beyer and her team have dedicated themselves<br />
entirely to Swabian cuisine which they skilfully<br />
refine with Mediterranean accents. The best<br />
produce and ingredients, some from the region,<br />
form the basis of their cooking. This beautiful restaurant<br />
is definitely worth a visit.<br />
Franz-Josef-Gall-Strasse 13<br />
+49 (7234) 95450<br />
www.ochsen-post.de<br />
<br />
Lamm Rosswag <br />
Food: 44 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 17 | 20<br />
Ambience: 10 | 10<br />
89<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
71665 Vaihingen<br />
French-inspired, Mediterranean influences, but<br />
always deeply-rooted in the region. This local<br />
connection is also evident in the wine list: only<br />
German wines are listed here. Simply the best<br />
from across the regions. Heavenly.<br />
Rathausstrasse 4/1<br />
+49 (7042) 21413<br />
www.lamm-rosswag.de<br />
<br />
Food: 45 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 18 | 20<br />
Ambience: 9 | 10<br />
90<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
Quellenstrasse 14<br />
+49 (7151) 9441227<br />
www.brunnenstuben.de<br />
<br />
Gourmet-Restaurant<br />
Friedrichsruhe<br />
Food: 43 | 50<br />
Service: 18 | 20<br />
Drinks: 17 | 20<br />
Ambience: 8 | 10<br />
86<br />
Total: | 1 00<br />
74639<br />
Zweiflingen-<br />
Friedrichsruhe<br />
Boris Rommel spices up his classic French cuisine<br />
with modern accents, creating dishes that will<br />
make any gourmet swoon. All of this happens in<br />
an elegant ambience, and the friendly staff are<br />
particularly good when it comes to recommending<br />
wines.<br />
Kärcherstrasse 7<br />
+49 (7941) 60870<br />
www.schlosshotel-friedrichsruhe.de<br />
Recommended by: Weingut G. A. Heinrich<br />
Photo: Fotostudio Pelz /fotostudio-pelz.de<br />
670 falstaff<br />
Wine Guide Germany 2021
SPACE FOR YOUR<br />
WINE NOTES<br />
671
HIGHLY<br />
RECOMMENDED<br />
You are looking for a well-stocked wine shop and great wines?<br />
Then this is the right place to look. These selected wine merchants<br />
offer competent advice and the best wines.<br />
BADEN-WÜRTTEMBERG<br />
73230 Kirchheim unter Teck<br />
Adornetto GmbH<br />
Teckstrasse 12, +49 (176) 10439198<br />
info@cantinaadornetto.de, www.cantinaadornetto.de<br />
Fridays 17–20 hrs, Saturdays 11–15 hrs and by appointment<br />
– please telephone<br />
77815 Bühl-Vimbuch<br />
Vinarium<br />
Vogesenstrasse 2a, +49 (7223) 986226<br />
info@vinarium.de, www.vinarium.de<br />
Tuesdays through Fridays 14–18.30 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 9.30–13 hrs<br />
78359 Orsingen<br />
Peter Riegel Weinimport<br />
Steinäcker 12<br />
weinladen@riegel.de, www.riegel.de<br />
Thurdays through Fridays 15–18 hrs and by appointment<br />
– please telephone<br />
79098 Freiburg im Breisgau<br />
Weinhaus Stellwagen-Büchner<br />
Oberlinden 19, +49 (7618) 9759852<br />
info@stellwagen-buechner.de, www.stellwagen-buechner.de<br />
Mondays through Fridays 10.30–18.30hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–17hrs<br />
79241 Ihringen<br />
Weinhaus Heger OHG, Weingut Dr. Heger<br />
Bachenstrasse 21, +49 (7668) 995110, info@heger-weine.de,<br />
www.heger-weine.de, Mar. to Oct. Mondays through Fridays 9–12<br />
& 13.30–18.30, Saturdays 10–14, Nov. to Feb. Mondays through Fridays<br />
9–12 & 13.30–17.30, Saturdays 10–14, Sept. to Oct. 10–16 hrs<br />
672 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WINE SHOPS AND EMPORIA<br />
89077 Ulm<br />
Wein-Bastion Ulm<br />
Schillerstrasse 1, +49 (731) 66993<br />
info@wein-bastion.de, www.wein-bastion.de<br />
Mondays through Fridays 9–18.30 hrs, Saturdays 9–16 hrs<br />
97980 Bad Mergentheim<br />
Victoria Weine<br />
Seegartenstrasse 4, +49 (7931) 563411<br />
mail@victoria-weine.de, www.victoria-weine.de<br />
Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays 10–18 hrs,<br />
Wednesdays 10–14 hrs and Saturdays 9–13 hrs<br />
85049 Ingolstadt<br />
Weinschmecker GmbH<br />
Friedrichshofener Strasse 1, +49 (841) 99397901<br />
info@weinschmecker-ingolstadt.de<br />
www.weinschmecker-ingolstadt.de<br />
Mondays through Thursdays & Saturdays 10–20 , Fridays 10–22 hrs<br />
87509 Immenstadt im Allgäu<br />
Flaschengeist<br />
Bahnhofstrasse 25, +49 (8323) 987197<br />
info@flaschengeist-immenstadt.de<br />
www.flaschengeist-immenstadt.de<br />
Mondays through Fridays 10–18.30 hrs, Saturdays 9–13 hrs<br />
BAVARIA<br />
90411 Nuremberg<br />
K & U Gebrüder Kössler und Ulbricht<br />
Nordostpark 78, +49 (911) 525153<br />
info@weinhalle.de, www.weinhalle.de<br />
Mondays through Fridays 10–18.30 hrs<br />
81829 Munich<br />
Saffer’s WinzerWelt – Trudering<br />
Martin-Kollar-Strasse 11, +49 (89) 42 00 90 90<br />
trudering@saffers-winzerwelt.de, www.winzerwelt.de<br />
Mondays through Fridays 11.30–18.30 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–14 hrs<br />
90431 Nuremberg<br />
Fruchtecke Schlosser GmbH & Co.KG<br />
Proeslerstrasse 30, +49 (911) 32399<br />
info@fruchtecke.de, www.fruchtecke.de<br />
Mondays through Fridays 9–11.30 hrs and 12–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–12.30 hrs<br />
84307 Eggenfelden<br />
Vinothek Wahre Werte<br />
Fischbrunnenplatz 4, +49 (8721) 1261985<br />
info@findyourwine.de, www.findyourwine.de<br />
Thurdays through Fridays 11–18 hrs, Saturdays 9–13 hrs<br />
673
S<br />
I<br />
N<br />
BERLIN<br />
91056 Erlangen<br />
Brakhoff Getränke und mehr<br />
Erlanger Strasse 8, +49 (9131) 12040<br />
info@brakhoff.de, www.brakhoff.de<br />
Mondays through Fridays 9–18 hrs, Saturdays 9–14 hrs<br />
10709 Berlin-Halensee<br />
La Cave de Bacchus Weinhandel GmbH<br />
Westfälische Strasse 33, +49 (30) 76731764<br />
info@weinhandlung-bacchus.de<br />
www.weinhandlung-bacchus.de<br />
Mondays through Fridays 10–19 hrs, Saturdays 10–15 hrs<br />
10717 Berlin<br />
Wein & Glas Compagnie<br />
Prinzregentenstrasse 2, +49 (30) 235152<br />
info@weinundglas.com, www.weinundglas.com<br />
Mondays through Fridays 10–18.30 hrs, Saturdays 10–16 hrs<br />
91341 Röttenbach<br />
Wein Lutz<br />
Auf der Höhe 25, +49 (9195) 2040<br />
mail@weinlutz.de, www.weinlutz.de<br />
Wednesdays and Thursdays 13–18 hrs, Fridays 10–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–16 hrs<br />
14195 Berlin<br />
Weinhandlung Hardy<br />
Thielallee 29, +49 (30) 8312598<br />
feinwein@hardy-weine.de, www.hardy-weine.de<br />
Mondays through Fridays 10–19 hrs, Saturdays 10–16 hrs<br />
BREMEN<br />
93161 Sinzing<br />
Weinkontor Sinzing GmbH & Co. KG<br />
Laberstrasse 7a, +49 (941) 3075755<br />
info@weinkontor-sinzing.de, www.weinkontor-sinzing.de<br />
Wednesdays through Saturdays 10–18 hrs<br />
27572 Bremerhaven<br />
Ludwig von Kapff Weinlager Bremerhaven<br />
Bremer Strasse 27, +49 (471) 77077, www.ludwig-von-kapff.de<br />
bremerhaven@ludwig-von-kapff.de<br />
Mondays 13–18 hrs, Tuesdays through Fridays 10–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–14 hrs<br />
... Ihr Weinhändler im Rottaler Bäderdreieck!<br />
R<br />
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in unserer<br />
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APROPOS WEIN<br />
C<br />
H<br />
M<br />
A<br />
L<br />
H<br />
O<br />
F<br />
R<br />
E<br />
Seilerberg 4a, Bad Griesbach – Altstadt<br />
Tel. 08532 / 7508<br />
www.aproposwein.de<br />
94086 Bad Griesbach im Rottal<br />
Apropos Wein<br />
Seilerberg 6C, +49 (8532) 7508<br />
info@aproposwein.com, www.aproposwein.com<br />
Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays & Saturdays 10–12, Tuesdays &<br />
Thursdays 16–18 hrs and by appointment – please telephone<br />
28195 Bremen<br />
Gute Weine – Lobenberg GmbH & Co.KG<br />
Tiefer 10, +49 (421) 696797<br />
gute-weine@gute-weine.de, www.gute-weine.de<br />
Mondays through Fridays 8–18 hrs<br />
674 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WINE SHOPS AND EMPORIA<br />
28209 Bremen<br />
Ludwig von Kapff Weinlager Schwachhausen<br />
Wachmannstrasse 16, +49 (421) 57799132<br />
schwachhausen@ludwig-von-kapff.de, www.ludwig-vonkapff.de<br />
Mondays & Tuesdays 15–19 hrs, Wednesdays through<br />
Fridays 10–19 hrs, Saturdays 9–15 hrs<br />
28217 Bremen<br />
Ludwig von Kapff Weinlager Speicher 1<br />
Konsul-Smidt-Strasse 8H, +49 (421) 3994323<br />
speicher1@ludwig-van-kapff.de, www.ludwig-von-kapff.de<br />
Mondays 13–18 hrs, Tuesdays through Fridays 10–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–15 hrs<br />
22529 Hamburg-Eimsbüttel<br />
Ludwig von Kapff Weinlager Eimsbüttel<br />
Stresemannallee 118, +49 (40) 225409<br />
eimsbuettel@ludwig-von-kapff.de, www.ludwig-von-kapff.de<br />
Mondays through Thursdays 11–19 hrs, Fridays 10–19 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–14 hrs<br />
HESSE<br />
65343 Eltville am Rhein<br />
Ludwig von Kapff Weinlager Eltville<br />
Matheus-Müller-Platz 1, +49 (6123) 606606<br />
eltville@ludwig-von-kapff.de, www.ludwig-von-kapff.de<br />
Mondays through Fridays 10–19 hrs, Saturdays 10–16 hrs<br />
28359 Bremen<br />
Bremer Weinkolleg<br />
Anne-Conway-Strasse 4, +49 (421) 33062220<br />
info@bremer-weinkolleg.de<br />
www.bremer-weinkolleg.de<br />
HAMBURG<br />
65366 Geisenheim<br />
WeinArt Handelsgesellschaft mbH<br />
Winkeler Strasse 93, +49 (6722) 7108<br />
info@weinart.de, www.weinart.de<br />
Mondays through Fridays 9–18 hrs<br />
22301 Hamburg<br />
Ludwig von Kapff Weinlager Krohnskamp<br />
Krohnskamp 17, +49 (40) 2708966<br />
Krohnskamp@ludwig-von-kapff.de<br />
www.ludwig-von-kapff.de<br />
Mondays through Fridays 10–19 hrs, Saturdays 10–18 hrs<br />
22303 Hamburg-Winterhube<br />
Ludwig von Kapff Weinlager Am Stadtpark<br />
Saarlandstrasse 23, +49 (40) 28781966<br />
amstadtpark@ludwig-von-kapff.de, www.ludwig-von-kapff.de<br />
Mondays through Thursdays 11.30–19 hrs,<br />
Fridays 11.30–20 hrs, Saturdays 10–16 hrs<br />
65375 Oestrich-Winkel<br />
Fritz Allendorf Weinhandel GmbH & Co.KG<br />
Kirchstrasse 69, +49 (6723) 9185<br />
allendorf@allendorf.de, www.allendorf.de<br />
Mondays through Fridays 8–12 hrs and 13–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–16 hrs<br />
675
LOWER-SAXONY<br />
NORTH RHINE-WESTPHALIA<br />
21614 Buxtehude<br />
Ludwig von Kapff Weinlager Buxtehude<br />
Westmoor 2G, +49 (4161) 503850<br />
buxtehude@ludwig-von-kapff.de<br />
www.ludwig-von-kapff.de<br />
Mondays through Fridays 10–19 hrs, Saturdays 10–18 hrs<br />
21682 Stade<br />
Ludwig von Kapff Weinlager Stade<br />
Fischmarkt 10, +49 (4141) 2335<br />
stade@ludwig-von-kapff.de, www.ludwig-von-kapff.de<br />
Mondays through Fridays 10–18 hrs, Saturdays 9–16 hrs<br />
40215 Düsseldorf<br />
Pipco’s Wein Compilation<br />
Heimholtzstrasse 28, +49 (173) 5190371<br />
mrspipco@me.com, www.weincompilation.de<br />
Wednesdays through Fridays 12–20 hrs, in December also<br />
Saturdays 11–16 hrs<br />
27404 Zeven<br />
Ludwig von Kapff Weinlager Zeven<br />
Südring 3, +49 (4281) 750 99 80<br />
zeven@ludwig-von-kapff.de, www.ludwig-von-kapff.de<br />
Mondays through Fridays 10–18 hrs, Saturdays 9–13 hrs<br />
30659 Hannover<br />
Ludwig von Kapff Weinlager Hannover<br />
Sutelstrasse 6, +49 (511) 9040470<br />
hannover@ludwig-von-kapff.de, www.ludwig-von-kapff.de<br />
Mondays through Fridays 10–19 hrs, Saturdays 10–18 hrs<br />
44139 Dortmund<br />
Cabernet & Co.<br />
Essener Strasse 13, +49 (231) 1206420<br />
wein@cabernet-und-co.de, www.cabernet-und-co.de<br />
Mondays through Fridays 10–20 hrs, Saturdays 10–16 hrs<br />
30916 Isernhagen-Altwarmbüchen<br />
Alleswein – Christ Weinhandelsgesellschaft<br />
Potsdamer Strasse 1, +49 (511) 45960900<br />
info@alleswein.com, www.alleswein.com<br />
Wednesdays through Fridays 11–18 hrs, Saturdays 10–14 hrs<br />
and by appointment – please telephone<br />
45128 Essen<br />
Vino Grande<br />
Von-Schmoller-Strasse 8, +49 (201) 796698<br />
info@vino-grande.de, www.vino-grande.de<br />
Tuesdays through Thursdays 14.30–19 hrs, Fridays 14.30–<br />
19.30 hrs, Saturdays 10–16 hrs<br />
48268 Greven<br />
Weinhaus Fallnit<br />
Martinistrasse 61, +49 (2571) 6281<br />
info@fallnit.de, www.fallnit.de<br />
Mondays from 16 hrs, Tuesdays 14.30–18.30, Wednesdays<br />
through Fridays 9.45–13 & 14.30–18.30, Saturdays 9.30–13.30 hrs<br />
49393 Lohne (Oldenburg)<br />
Dehlwisch<br />
Handelshaus für internationale Getränke<br />
Bahnhofstrasse 31, +49 (4442) 93920<br />
info@dehlwisch.de, www.dehlwisch.de, Mondays through<br />
Fridays 8.30–13 hrs & 14–18.30 hrs, Saturdays 8.30–13.30 hrs<br />
676 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
WINE SHOPS AND EMPORIA<br />
SAARLAND<br />
59320 Ennigerloh<br />
Fröhlig Wein- & Getränke-Therme<br />
Oelder Strasse 1, +49 (2524) 2147<br />
info@getraenke-therme.de, www.getraenke-therme.de<br />
Mondays through Fridays 8.30–19 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 8.30–16 hrs<br />
RHINELAND-PALATINATE<br />
66287 Quierschied<br />
LöwWeine e.K.<br />
Am Campus 3, +49 (6825) 9541406<br />
info@loewweine.com, www.loewweine.com<br />
Tuesdays through Fridays 10–17 hrs, Saturdays 10–13 hrs<br />
53474 Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler<br />
Dagernova Weinmanufaktur<br />
Heerstrasse 91–93, +49 (2641) 9472<br />
info@dagernova.de, www.dagernova.de<br />
Mondays through Fridays 8–18 hrs, Saturdays 8–12 hrs<br />
66333 Völklingen-Ludweiler<br />
Jacovin GmbH<br />
Am Sandberg, +49 (6898) 448217<br />
info@jacovin.de, www.jacovin.de<br />
Mondays through Fridays 9–13 hrs and 14–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 9–13 hrs<br />
54457 Wincheringen<br />
Weingut – Weinhandel Johann Hild e.K.<br />
Bahnhofstrasse 33, +49 (6583) 527<br />
info@hild-wein.de, www.hild-wein.de<br />
Mondays through Saturdays 9–19 hrs, Sundays 10–18 hrs<br />
66333 Völklingen<br />
VIF Weinhandel GmbH<br />
Kreppstrasse 6, +49 (6898) 27070<br />
info@vif.de, www.vif.de<br />
Tuesdays through Fridays 10–18.30 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–14 hrs<br />
677
SAXONY<br />
Jacopini-Weine&Feinkost.indd 2 21.03.18 12:16<br />
66538 Neunkirchen<br />
Jacopini Import GmbH<br />
Am Gneisenauflöz 1, +49 (6821) 931530<br />
shop@jacopini-weinhandel.de<br />
www.jacopini-weinhandel.de<br />
Mondays through Fridays 10–19 hrs, Saturdays 10–17 hrs<br />
01454 Radeberg<br />
BELViNi<br />
Christoph-Seydel-Strasse 1, +49 (3528) 22981<br />
info@belvini.de, www.belvini.de<br />
Mondays through Fridays 8–17 hrs<br />
66679 Losheim am See<br />
W. Spies & Co. GmbH<br />
Am Steil 1, +49 (6872) 912<br />
shop@w-spies.de, weine-spirituosen-spies.de<br />
Mondays 10–17 hrs, Tuesdays through Fridays 10–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–12.30 hrs<br />
66740 Saarlouis<br />
Stella Weinkauff GmbH<br />
Kavalleriestrasse 3–7, +49 (6831) 4104446<br />
info@stella-weinkauff.de, www.stella-weinkauff.de<br />
Wednesdays through Fridays 10–18 hrs,<br />
Saturdays 10–14 hrs<br />
678 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
INDEX | WINE ESTATES<br />
WINE ESTATES A–Z<br />
A<br />
Weingut Achenbach<br />
55599 Wonsheim, Rheinhessen 507<br />
Winzergenossenschaft Achkarren im Kaiserstuhl eG<br />
79235 Vogtsburg-Achkarren, Baden 62<br />
AdamsWein<br />
55218 Ingelheim am Rhein, Rheinhessen 508<br />
Weingut Graf Adelmann<br />
71711 Steinheim-Kleinbottwar, Württemberg 613<br />
Alde Gott Winzer Schwarzwald<br />
77887 Sasbachwalden, Baden 63<br />
Weingut Aldinger<br />
70734 Fellbach, Württemberg 614<br />
Weingut Fritz Allendorf<br />
65375 Oestrich-Winkel, Rheingau 446<br />
Weingut Jürgen Andres<br />
67435 Neustadt-Speyerdorf, Pfalz 329<br />
Weingut Michael Andres<br />
67152 Ruppertsberg, Pfalz 330<br />
Weingut Andres<br />
67146 Deidesheim, Pfalz 331<br />
Weingut Sankt Annaberg<br />
76835 Burrweiler, Pfalz 332<br />
Weingut St. Antony<br />
55283 Nierstein, Rheinhessen 509<br />
B<br />
Weingut Johannes B.<br />
70736 Fellbach, Württemberg 615<br />
Weingut Christian Bamberger – Steinhardter Hof<br />
55566 Bad Sobernheim-Steinhardt, Nahe 291<br />
Wein- und Sektgut Bamberger<br />
55566 Meddersheim, Nahe 292<br />
Sektkellerei Bardong<br />
65366 Geisenheim, Rheingau 447<br />
Weingut Stefan Bardorf Bacchusstube<br />
97236 Randersacker, Franken 147<br />
Weingut Bärenhof<br />
67098 Bad Dürkheim, Pfalz 333<br />
Bärmann<br />
79291 Merdingen, Baden 64<br />
Wein- und Sektgut Barth<br />
65347 Eltville-Hattenheim, Rheingau 448<br />
Weingut Battenfeld-Spanier<br />
67591 Hohen-Sülzen, Rheinhessen 510<br />
Weingut Axel Bauer<br />
77815 Bühl, Baden 65<br />
Weingut Emil Bauer und Söhne<br />
76829 Landau-Nußdorf, Pfalz 334<br />
Weingut Bauer<br />
54486 Mülheim an der Mosel, Mosel 225<br />
Weingut Dr. Baumann<br />
74182 Obersulm, Württemberg 616<br />
Reiner Baumann Weinbau<br />
68519 Viernheim, Baden 66<br />
Panoramaweingut Baumgärtner<br />
74343 Hohenhaslach, Württemberg 617<br />
Weingut Hans Bausch<br />
65347 Hattenheim, Rheingau 449<br />
Weingut Friedrich Becker<br />
76889 Schweigen-Rechtenbach, Pfalz 335<br />
Weingut Becker<br />
76831 Ilbesheim, Pfalz 336<br />
Becksteiner Winzer<br />
97922 Beckstein, Baden 67<br />
Weingut Befort<br />
54453 Nittel, Mosel 226<br />
Weingut Beiser<br />
55578 Vendersheim, Rheinhessen 511<br />
Graf von Bentzel-Sturmfeder<br />
74360 Schozach, Württemberg 618<br />
Weingut Bercher<br />
79235 Vogtsburg, Baden 68<br />
Weingut Konrad Berg & Sohn<br />
65385 Assmannshausen, Rheingau 450<br />
Weingut Bergdolt<br />
67435 Neustadt-Duttweiler, Pfalz 337<br />
Weingut Bergdolt-Reif und Nett<br />
67435 Neustadt-Duttweiler, Pfalz 338<br />
679
Weingut Bernhart<br />
76889 Schweigen-Rechtenbach, Pfalz 339<br />
Weingut Bertram-Baltes<br />
53507 Dernau, Ahr 38<br />
Erben von Beulwitz<br />
54318 Mertesdorf, Mosel 227<br />
Bickensohler Weinvogtei<br />
79235 Vogtsburg-Bickensohl, Baden 69<br />
Weingut Bicking & Bicking<br />
55595 Wallhausen, Nahe 293<br />
Weingut Bietighöfer<br />
76831 Billigheim-Ingenheim, Pfalz 340<br />
Weingut Bimmerle<br />
77871 Renchen-Erlach, Baden 70<br />
Weingut Bischel<br />
55437 Appenheim, Rheinhessen 512<br />
Bischöfliches Weingut Rüdesheim<br />
65385 Rüdesheim, Rheingau 451<br />
Weingut Blankenhorn<br />
79418 Schliengen, Baden 71<br />
Weingut Blesius<br />
54470 Graach, Mosel 228<br />
Weingut Richard Böcking<br />
56841 Traben-Trarbach, Mosel 229<br />
Weinhaus Boessneck<br />
97346 Iphofen, Franken 148<br />
Weingut Bollig<br />
54487 Wintrich, Mosel 230<br />
Weingut Borth<br />
74626 Bretzfeld, Württemberg 619<br />
Weingut Bossert<br />
67598 Gundersheim, Rheinhessen 513<br />
Weingut Boxheimerhof<br />
67550 Worms-Abenheim, Rheinhessen 514<br />
Weingut Markus Brandt<br />
67596 Dittelsheim-Heßloch, Rheinhessen 515<br />
Weingut Braun<br />
67149 Meckenheim, Pfalz 341<br />
Weingut Bremer<br />
67308 Zellertal, Pfalz 342<br />
Weingut Brenneisen<br />
79588 Egringen, Baden 72<br />
Weingut Ernst Bretz<br />
55234 Bechtolsheim, Rheinhessen 516<br />
Weingut Georg Breuer<br />
65385 Rüdesheim am Rhein, Rheingau 452<br />
Weingut Stefan Breuer<br />
65345 Eltville am Rhein, Rheingau 453<br />
Weingut Brogsitter<br />
53501 Grafschaft-Gelsdorf, Ahr 39<br />
Weingut Brönner & Heilmann<br />
63791 Karlstein am Main, Franken 149<br />
Weingut Bruker<br />
71723 Großbottwar, Württemberg 620<br />
Weingut Buchert<br />
67435 Neustadt an der Weinstraße, Pfalz 343<br />
Weingut Reichsrat von Buhl<br />
67146 Deidesheim, Pfalz 344<br />
Weingut Lisa Bunn<br />
55283 Nierstein, Rheinhessen 517<br />
Bürgerspital zum Hl. Geist<br />
97070 Würzburg, Franken 150<br />
Weingut Burggarten<br />
53474 Heppingen, Ahr 40<br />
Burkheimer Winzer am Kaiserstuhl<br />
79235 Vogtsburg-Burkheim, Baden 73<br />
Weingut Clemens Busch<br />
56862 Pünderich, Mosel 231<br />
C<br />
C.A. Haussmann<br />
56841 Traben-Trarbach, Mosel 232<br />
Weingut Caspari-Kappel<br />
56850 Enkirch, Mosel 233<br />
Fürstlich Castell’sches Domänenamt<br />
97355 Castell, Franken 151<br />
Weingut Chat Sauvage/Schulz & Schöttle GbR<br />
65366 Johannisberg, Rheingau 454<br />
Weingut A. Christmann<br />
67435 Neustadt-Gimmeldingen, Pfalz 345<br />
Cisterzienser Weingut<br />
67596 Dittelsheim-Heßloch, Rheinhessen 518<br />
Weingut Clauß<br />
79807 Nack, Baden 74<br />
Weingärtner Cleebronn & Güglingen<br />
74389 Cleebronn, Württemberg 621<br />
Weingut Ansgar Clüsserath<br />
54349 Trittenheim, Mosel 234<br />
Weingut Martin Conrad<br />
54472 Brauneberg, Mosel 235<br />
Weingut Dr. Corvers-Kauter<br />
65375 Oestrich-Winkel, Rheingau 455<br />
D<br />
Weingut Dackermann<br />
67596 Dittelsheim-Heßloch, Rheinhessen 519<br />
Weingut Dahms<br />
97526 Sennfeld, Franken 152<br />
Weingut Dautel<br />
74357 Bönnigheim, Württemberg 622<br />
680 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
INDEX | WINE ESTATES<br />
Winzerverein Deidesheim<br />
67146 Deidesheim, Pfalz 346<br />
Weingut Dengler-Seyler<br />
67487 Maikammer, Pfalz 347<br />
Weingut Deutzerhof<br />
53508 Mayschoß, Ahr 41<br />
Weingut Diefenhardt<br />
65344 Eltville-Martinsthal, Rheingau 456<br />
Schlossgut Diel<br />
55452 Rümmelsheim, Nahe 294<br />
Weingut Disibodenberg<br />
55571 Odernheim, Nahe 295<br />
Weingut Dönnhoff<br />
55585 Oberhausen an der Nahe, Nahe 296<br />
Weingut Dörflinger<br />
79379 Müllheim, Baden 75<br />
Weingut Drei Herren<br />
01445 Radebeul, Sachsen 592<br />
Weingut Holger Dütsch<br />
76534 Baden-Baden, Neuweier, Baden 76<br />
E<br />
Weingut Eck<br />
76831 Ilbesheim, Pfalz 348<br />
Weingut Egert<br />
65347 Eltville am Rhein, Rheingau 457<br />
Weingut Ehrmann<br />
97990 Weikersheim, Württemberg 623<br />
Weingut Eißele<br />
71394 Kernen im Remstal, Württemberg 624<br />
Weingut Eisele<br />
74394 Hessigheim, Württemberg 625<br />
Weingut Bernhard Ellwanger<br />
71384 Weinstadt-Großheppach, Württemberg 626<br />
Weingut Jürgen Ellwanger<br />
73650 Winterbach, Württemberg 627<br />
Weingut Engel<br />
67592 Flörsheim-Dalsheim, Rheinhessen 520<br />
Weingut Eppelmann<br />
55271 Stadecken-Elsheim, Rheinhessen 521<br />
Winzer von Erbach<br />
65346 Erbach im Rheingau, Rheingau 458<br />
Weingut Escher<br />
71409 Schwaikheim, Württemberg 628<br />
Weingut August Eser<br />
65375 Oestrich-Winkel, Rheingau 459<br />
Weingut Espenhof<br />
55237 Flonheim-Uffhofen, Rheinhessen 522<br />
Weingärtner Esslingen<br />
73733 Esslingen-Mettingen, Württemberg 629<br />
Weingut Eymann<br />
67161 Gönnheim, Pfalz 349<br />
F<br />
Weingut Fader Kastanienhof<br />
76835 Rhodt unter Rietburg, Pfalz 350<br />
Weingut Finkenauer<br />
55270 Bubenheim, Rheinhessen 523<br />
Weingut Fischborn Bergeshof<br />
55278 Dexheim, Rheinhessen 524<br />
Weingut Stefan Fischer<br />
76889 Schweighofen, Pfalz 351<br />
Weingut Fischer<br />
97353 Wiesentheid, Franken 153<br />
Weingut Fitz-Ritter<br />
67098 Bad Dürkheim an der Weinstraße, Pfalz 352<br />
Weingut Fleischmann<br />
55435 Gau-Algesheim, Rheinhessen 525<br />
Weingut Joachim Flick<br />
65439 Flörsheim-Wicker, Rheingau 460<br />
Weingut Peter Flick<br />
65239 Hochheim, Rheingau 461<br />
Weingut Alexander Flick<br />
55234 Bechtolsheim, Rheinhessen 526<br />
Weingut Forster<br />
55452 Rümmelsheim, Nahe 297<br />
Bio-Weingut Forsthof<br />
71711 Steinheim-Kleinbottwar, Württemberg 630<br />
Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken<br />
54439 Saarburg, Mosel 236<br />
Freiherr von und zu Franckenstein<br />
77654 Offenburg, Baden 77<br />
Weingut Frank<br />
74336 Brackenheim, Württemberg 631<br />
Schloß Frankenberg<br />
97215 Weigenheim, Franken 154<br />
Weingut Reinhold Franzen<br />
56814 Bremm, Mosel 237<br />
Staatsweingut Freiburg<br />
79100 Freiburg, Baden 78<br />
Otto und Martin Frey<br />
79211 Denzlingen, Baden 79<br />
Weingut Eva Fricke<br />
65343 Eltville, Rheingau 462<br />
Weingut Leo Fuchs<br />
56829 Pommern, Mosel 238<br />
Weingut Rudolf Fürst<br />
63927 Bürgstadt, Franken 155<br />
Weingut Martin & Georg Fußer<br />
67150 Niederkirchen, Pfalz 353<br />
681
G<br />
Weingut Gabel<br />
67273 Herxheim, Pfalz 354<br />
GUTGALLÉ Rheinhessen<br />
55237 Flonheim, Rheinhessen 527<br />
Weingut Gaufer<br />
74653 Ingelfingen, Württemberg 632<br />
Weingut Gehring<br />
55283 Nierstein, Rheinhessen 528<br />
Weingut Geierslay<br />
54487 Wintrich, Mosel 239<br />
Weingut Helmut Geil<br />
55234 Monzernheim, Rheinhessen 529<br />
Weingut Oekonomierat Johann Geil I. Erben<br />
67595 Bechtheim, Rheinhessen 530<br />
Max Geitlinger Wein<br />
79400 Egerten, Baden 80<br />
Geldermann Privatsektkellerei<br />
79206 Breisach am Rhein, Baden 81<br />
Weingut und Edelbrennerei Gemmrich<br />
71717 Beilstein, Württemberg 633<br />
Der GlücksJäger<br />
67482 Venningen, Pfalz 355<br />
Weingut Leon Gold<br />
71384 Weinstadt, Württemberg 634<br />
Weingut Goldschmidt<br />
67551 Worms, Rheinhessen 531<br />
Weingut Golter<br />
74360 Ilsfeld, Württemberg 635<br />
Weingut Graf von Weyher<br />
76835 Weyher in der Pfalz, Pfalz 356<br />
Weingut Grans-Fassian<br />
54340 Leiwen, Mosel 240<br />
Weingut Graßmück<br />
76831 Birkweiler, Pfalz 357<br />
Weingut Greiner<br />
79418 Schliengen-Obereggenen, Baden 82<br />
Griesel & Compagnie<br />
64625 Bensheim, Hessische Bergstraße 490<br />
Weingut Grober Feetz<br />
06632 Freyburg, Saale-Unstrut 597<br />
Weingut Eckehart Gröhl<br />
55278 Weinolsheim, Rheinhessen 532<br />
Weingut Grossarth<br />
55571 Odernheim am Glan, Nahe 298<br />
Weingut Gunderloch<br />
55299 Nackenheim, Rheinhessen 533<br />
Weingut Louis Guntrum<br />
55283 Nierstein, Rheinhessen 534<br />
Gut Hermannsberg<br />
55585 Niederhausen, Nahe 299<br />
Weingut Gysler<br />
55232 Alzey-Weinheim, Rheinhessen 535<br />
H<br />
Weingut Hagenbuch<br />
76835 Hainfeld, Pfalz 358<br />
Weinhaus Franz Hahn<br />
76857 Albersweiler, Pfalz 359<br />
Weingut Karl Haidle<br />
71394 Kernen-Stetten, Württemberg 636<br />
Weingut Hain<br />
54498 Piesport, Mosel 241<br />
Weingut Hammel<br />
67281 Kirchheim, Pfalz 360<br />
Weingut Hanewald-Schwerdt<br />
67098 Bad Dürkheim, Pfalz 361<br />
Weingut Hauck<br />
55234 Bermersheim vor der Höhe, Rheinhessen 536<br />
Weingut Hauer<br />
67098 Bad Dürkheim, Pfalz 362<br />
Weingut Dr. Heger<br />
79241 Ihringen, Baden 83<br />
Weingut Heid<br />
70734 Fellbach, Württemberg 637<br />
Weingut Dr. Heigel<br />
97475 Zeil am Main, Franken 156<br />
Weingut Heiligenblut<br />
55232 Alzey, Rheinhessen 537<br />
Weingut Heinemann<br />
79238 Scherzingen, Baden 84<br />
Weingut G. A. Heinrich<br />
74076 Heilbronn, Württemberg 638<br />
Weingut Heinrichshof<br />
54492 Zeltingen-Rachtig, Mosel 242<br />
Weingut Heitlinger<br />
76684 Östringen-Tiefenbach, Baden 85<br />
Weingut Hemmes<br />
55411 Bingen am Rhein, Rheinhessen 538<br />
Weingut Hiestand<br />
67583 Guntersblum, Rheinhessen 539<br />
Weingut Hillabrand<br />
97348 Hüttenheim, Franken 157<br />
Wein & Sektgut Hirschmüller<br />
74348 Lauffen am Neckar, Württemberg 639<br />
Weingut Hiss<br />
79356 Eichstetten am Kaiserstuhl, Baden 86<br />
Weingut Hof<br />
76831 Heuchelheim-Klingen, Pfalz 363<br />
682 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
INDEX | WINE ESTATES<br />
Weingut Höfflin Schambachhof<br />
79268 Bötzingen, Baden 87<br />
Classisches Weingut Hoffranzen<br />
54346 Mehring, Mosel 243<br />
Staatlicher Hofkeller Würzburg<br />
97070 Würzburg, Franken 158<br />
Weingut Hofmann<br />
55437 Appenheim, Rheinhessen 540<br />
Weingut Hofmann<br />
97355 Wiesenbronn, Franken 159<br />
Weingut Fürst Hohenlohe Oehringen<br />
74613 Öhringen-Verrenberg, Württemberg 640<br />
Weingut Höhn<br />
65201 Wiesbaden, Rheingau 463<br />
Weingut Holzapfel<br />
74172 Neckarsulm, Württemberg 641<br />
Weingut Honold<br />
76684 Östringen, Baden 88<br />
Hornstein am See<br />
88149 Nonnenhorn, Württemberg 642<br />
Weingut von Hövel<br />
54329 Konz-Oberemmel, Mosel 244<br />
Weingut Bernhard Huber<br />
79364 Malterdingen, Baden 89<br />
Bioweingut Hubertushof<br />
54470 Lieser, Mosel 245<br />
Weingut Fritz Ekkehard Huff<br />
55283 Nierstein, Rheinhessen 541<br />
Georg Gustav Huff<br />
55283 Nierstein-Schwabsburg, Rheinhessen 542<br />
Weingut Huller<br />
97855 Homburg am Main, Franken 160<br />
Wein- und Sektgut Hummel, Inhaber Daniel Rhein<br />
69254 Malsch, Baden 90<br />
Weingut Kilian Hunn<br />
79288 Gottenheim, Baden 91<br />
I<br />
Weingut C.A. Immich-Batterieberg<br />
56850 Enkirch, Mosel 246<br />
Weingut In den Zehn Morgen<br />
55559 Bretzenheim, Nahe 300<br />
J<br />
Weingut Jäger<br />
55437 Ockenheim, Rheinhessen 543<br />
Domäne Schloss Johannisberg<br />
65366 Geisenheim-Johannisberg, Rheingau 464<br />
Weingut Johannishof<br />
65366 Johannisberg, Rheingau 465<br />
Weingut Johler<br />
67363 Lustadt, Pfalz 364<br />
Weingut Toni Jost – Hahnenhof<br />
55422 Bacharach, Mittelrhein 201<br />
Weingut Josten & Klein<br />
53424 Remagen, Ahr 42<br />
Weingut Jülg<br />
76889 Schweigen-Rechtenbach, Pfalz 365<br />
Weingut Juliusspital<br />
97070 Würzburg, Franken 161<br />
Weingut Georg Jung<br />
55278 Undenheim, Rheinhessen 544<br />
Weingut Jakob Jung<br />
65346 Erbach, Rheingau 466<br />
K<br />
Weingut Gebr. Mathis Kalkbödele<br />
79291 Merdingen, Baden 92<br />
Winzergenossenschaft Kallstadt<br />
67169 Kallstadt, Pfalz 366<br />
Kapellenhof<br />
55278 Selzen, Rheinhessen 545<br />
Weingut Karthäuserhof<br />
54292 Trier, Mosel 247<br />
Weingut Kassner-Simon<br />
67251 Freinsheim, Pfalz 367<br />
Kay Weine<br />
53639 Königswinter, Mittelrhein 202<br />
Weingut Franz Keller<br />
79235 Vogtsburg-Oberbergen, Baden 93<br />
Weingut Karlheinz Keller<br />
67549 Worms, Rheinhessen 546<br />
Weingut Harald Kempf<br />
69254 Malsch, Baden 94<br />
Weingut August Kesseler<br />
65385 Rüdesheim am Rhein, Rheingau 467<br />
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt<br />
54317 Morscheid, Mosel 248<br />
Weingut Keth<br />
67591 Offstein, Rheinhessen 547<br />
Wein & Sekthaus Alois Kiefer<br />
67487 Sankt Martin, Pfalz 368<br />
Kistenmacher-Hengerer<br />
74074 Heilbronn, Württemberg 643<br />
Kloster Eberbach<br />
65346 Eltville, Rheingau 468<br />
Weingut am Klotz<br />
79588 Efringen-Kirchen, Baden 95<br />
Weingut Klumpp<br />
76646 Bruchsal, Baden 96<br />
683
Weingut Knab<br />
79346 Endingen, Baden 97<br />
Weingut Knapp<br />
76530 Baden-Baden, Baden 98<br />
Weingut Knewitz<br />
55437 Appenheim, Rheinhessen 548<br />
Weingut Baron Knyphausen<br />
65346 Eltville-Erbach, Rheingau 469<br />
Weingut Dr. Josef Köhr<br />
67152 Ruppertsberg, Pfalz 369<br />
Weingut Kopp<br />
76547 Sinzheim, Baden 99<br />
Korrell<br />
55545 Bad Kreuznach-Bosenheim, Nahe 301<br />
Weingut Köster-Wolf<br />
55234 Albig, Rheinhessen 549<br />
Weingut Nikolaus Köwerich<br />
54340 Leiwen, Mosel 249<br />
Weingut Kranz<br />
76831 Ilbesheim, Pfalz 370<br />
Weingut Krebs<br />
67251 Freinsheim, Pfalz 371<br />
Weingut Thorsten Krieger<br />
76835 Rhodt unter Rietburg, Pfalz 372<br />
Weingut Krone Assmannshausen<br />
65385 Assmannshausen, Rheingau 470<br />
Weingut Kühling-Gillot<br />
55294 Bodenheim, Rheinhessen 550<br />
Weingut Peter Jakob Kühn<br />
65375 Oestrich-Winkel, Rheingau 471<br />
Weingut Philipp Kuhn<br />
67229 Laumersheim, Pfalz 373<br />
Weingut Künstler<br />
65239 Hochheim, Rheingau 472<br />
Weingut Kusterer<br />
73733 Esslingen am Neckar, Württemberg 644<br />
L<br />
Weingut Lamberth<br />
55278 Ludwigshöhe, Rheinhessen 551<br />
Wein- und Sektgut Goswin Lambrich<br />
55430 Oberwesel-Dellhofen, Mittelrhein 203<br />
Lämmlin-Schindler<br />
79418 Schliengen-Mauchen, Baden 100<br />
Weingut Anita Landesvatter<br />
74336 Brackenheim, Württemberg 645<br />
Weingut Landmann<br />
79112 Freiburg im Breisgau, Baden 101<br />
Weingut Langenwalter<br />
67256 Weisenheim, Pfalz 374<br />
Weingut Lanius-Knab<br />
55430 Oberwesel, Mittelrhein 204<br />
Weingut Lanz<br />
88149 Nonnenhorn, Württemberg 646<br />
Weingut Lassak<br />
74394 Hessigheim, Württemberg 647<br />
Bio-Weingut Laudens Bach<br />
97252 Frickenhausen am Main, Franken 162<br />
Weingut Lauermann und Weyer<br />
67278 Bockenheim, Pfalz 375<br />
Weinbau der Lebenshilfe<br />
67098 Bad Dürkheim, Pfalz 376<br />
Weingut Leiling<br />
76889 Schweigen, Pfalz 377<br />
Weingut Jürgen Leiner<br />
76831 Ilbesheim, Pfalz 378<br />
Weingut Leitz<br />
65385 Rüdesheim am Rhein, Rheingau 473<br />
Weingut Lergenmüller<br />
76835 Hainfeld, Pfalz 379<br />
Weingut Schloss Lieser<br />
54470 Lieser, Mosel 250<br />
Weingut Lindenhof – Martin Reimann<br />
55452 Windesheim, Nahe 302<br />
Weingut Lithos<br />
55430 Oberwesel-Weilerboppard, Mittelrhein 205<br />
Weingut Carl Loewen<br />
54340 Leiwen, Mosel 251<br />
Weingut Lohr<br />
67551 Worms, Pfalz 380<br />
Weingut Dr. Loosen<br />
54470 Bernkastel-Kues, Mosel 252<br />
Weingut Lorenz<br />
54340 Detzem, Mosel 253<br />
Weingut Fürst Löwenstein<br />
63924 Kleinheubach, Franken 163<br />
Weingut Luff<br />
55459 Aspisheim, Rheinhessen 552<br />
M<br />
Maibachfarm<br />
53474 Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler, Ahr 43<br />
Maier Bio Weingut Baden<br />
76532 Baden-Baden, Baden 102<br />
Weingut Manz<br />
55278 Weinolsheim, Rheinhessen 553<br />
Weingut Margarethenhof<br />
67147 Forst an der Weinstraße, Pfalz 381<br />
Markgraf von Baden - Gutsbetrieb Schloss Staufenberg<br />
77770 Durbach, Baden 103<br />
684 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
INDEX | WINE ESTATES<br />
Weingut Markgraf von Baden<br />
88682 Salem, Baden 104<br />
Markgräfler Winzer<br />
79588 Efringen-Kirchen, Baden 105<br />
Maximin Grünhaus – Weingut der Familie von Schubert<br />
54318 Mertesdorf, Mosel 254<br />
Weingut Rudolf May<br />
97282 Retzstadt, Franken 164<br />
Winzergenossenschaft Mayschoß-Altenahr<br />
53508 Mayschoß, Ahr 44<br />
Staatsweingut Meersburg<br />
88709 Meersburg, Baden 106<br />
Winzerverein Meersburg<br />
88709 Meersburg, Baden 107<br />
Weingut Mees<br />
55545 Bad Kreuznach, Nahe 303<br />
Weingut Mehling<br />
67146 Deidesheim, Pfalz 382<br />
Mehrlein<br />
65375 Oestrich-Winkel, Rheingau 474<br />
Weingut Meier<br />
76835 Weyher in der Pfalz, Pfalz 383<br />
Weingut Meier Schmidt<br />
91478 Ulsenheim, Franken 165<br />
Mathias Meimberg<br />
48282 Emsdetten, Franken 166<br />
Weingut Meintzinger<br />
97252 Frickenhausen, Franken 167<br />
Burgunderhof Merkel<br />
67598 Gundersheim, Rheinhessen 554<br />
Weingut Herbert Meßmer<br />
76835 Burrweiler, Pfalz 384<br />
Weingut Karl-Heinz und Andreas Meyer<br />
76831 Heuchelheim-Klingen, Pfalz 385<br />
Weingut Klaus und Marius Meyer<br />
76835 Rhodt unter Rietburg, Pfalz 386<br />
Weingut Stefan Meyer<br />
76835 Rhodt unter Rietburg, Pfalz 387<br />
Weingut Meyer-Näkel<br />
53507 Dernau, Ahr 45<br />
Weingut Michel<br />
55234 Hochborn, Rheinhessen 555<br />
Weingut Michel<br />
55566 Bad Sobernheim, Nahe 304<br />
Weingut Theo Minges<br />
76835 Flemlingen, Pfalz 388<br />
BIO-Weingut Mitter-Velten<br />
65239 Hochheim am Main, Rheingau 475<br />
Weingut Mohr<br />
65391 Lorch, Rheingau 476<br />
Weingut Markus Molitor<br />
54470 Bernkastel-Wehlen, Mosel 255<br />
Weingut Sascha Montigny<br />
55452 Laubenheim, Nahe 305<br />
Weingut Moosmann<br />
79183 Waldkirch-Buchholz, Baden 108<br />
Weingut Georg Mosbacher<br />
67147 Forst, Pfalz 389<br />
Weingut Eugen Müller<br />
67147 Forst, Pfalz 390<br />
Weingut Georg Müller Stiftung<br />
65347 Hattenheim im Rheingau, Rheingau 477<br />
Weingut Müller – Dr. Becker<br />
67592 Flörsheim-Dalsheim, Rheinhessen 556<br />
Weingut Münzberg<br />
76829 Landau-Godramstein, Pfalz 391<br />
Weingut Münzenberger<br />
55270 Zornheim, Rheinhessen 557<br />
N<br />
Weingut Nägelsförst<br />
76534 Baden-Baden, Baden 109<br />
Weingut Nauerth-Gnägy<br />
76889 Schweigen-Rechtenbach, Pfalz 392<br />
Weingut Neder<br />
97729 Ramsthal, Franken 168<br />
Weingut Neef-Emmich<br />
67593 Bermersheim, Rheinhessen 558<br />
Weingut Nehb<br />
67269 Grünstadt-Asselheim, Pfalz 393<br />
Weingut Graf Neipperg<br />
74193 Schwaigern, Württemberg 648<br />
Weingut Nelles<br />
53474 Bad Neuenahr-Heimersheim, Ahr 46<br />
Weingut Friedhelm Neu<br />
67098 Bad Dürkheim-Leistadt, Pfalz 394<br />
Weingut Neuberger<br />
63927 Bürgstadt, Franken 169<br />
Weingut J. Neus<br />
55218 Ingelheim am Rhein, Rheinhessen 559<br />
Weingut Nik Weis – St. Urbans-Hof<br />
54340 Leiwen, Mosel 256<br />
Weingut Heinz Nikolai<br />
65346 Erbach, Rheingau 478<br />
Weingut am Nil<br />
67169 Kallstadt, Pfalz 395<br />
O<br />
Gut Obercarlenbach<br />
67271 Kleinkarlbach, Pfalz 396<br />
685
Weingut Oberhofer<br />
67483 Edesheim, Pfalz 397<br />
Kaiserstühler Winzerverein Oberrotweil<br />
79235 Oberrotweil, Baden 110<br />
Ö<br />
Weingut am Ölspiel<br />
97286 Sommerhausen, Franken 170<br />
O<br />
Wein+Gut Oster<br />
56814 Ediger-Eller, Mosel 257<br />
Weingut von Othegraven<br />
54441 Kanzem, Mosel 258<br />
P<br />
Parfum der Erde<br />
71384 Weinstadt, Württemberg 649<br />
Weingut Paulinshof<br />
54518 Kesten, Mosel 259<br />
Weingut Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler<br />
54470 Bernkastel-Kues, Mosel 260<br />
Weingut Pauser<br />
55237 Flonheim, Rheinhessen 560<br />
Weingut August Perll<br />
56154 Boppard, Mittelrhein 206<br />
Weingut Petri<br />
67273 Herxheim am Berg, Pfalz 398<br />
Weingut Heinz Pfaffmann – 1616 Pfaffmann<br />
76833 Walsheim, Pfalz 399<br />
Weingut Tina Pfaffmann<br />
76833 Frankweiler, Pfalz 400<br />
Weingut Pfeffingen<br />
67098 Bad Dürkheim, Pfalz 401<br />
Weingut Pfirmann<br />
76829 Landau-Wollmesheim, Pfalz 402<br />
Landesweingut Kloster Pforta<br />
06628 Bad Kösen, Saale-Unstrut 598<br />
Weingut Pieper<br />
53639 Königswinter, Mittelrhein 207<br />
Reichsgraf von Plettenberg<br />
55545 Bad Kreuznach, Nahe 306<br />
Poss<br />
55452 Windesheim, Nahe 307<br />
Weingut Prinz von Hessen<br />
65366 Geisenheim-Johannisberg, Rheingau 479<br />
Weingut Prinz<br />
65375 Hallgarten, Rheingau 480<br />
Weingut Schloss Proschwitz – Prinz zur Lippe<br />
01665 Zadel, Sachsen 593<br />
Weingut S. A. Prüm<br />
54470 Bernkastel-Wehlen, Mosel 261<br />
R<br />
Weingut Ratzenberger<br />
55422 Bacharach, Mittelrhein 208<br />
Weingut Burg Ravensburg<br />
75056 Sulzfeld, Baden 111<br />
Rebenhof, Johannes Schmitz<br />
54539 Ürzig, Mosel 262<br />
Weingut Rebhof<br />
88149 Nonnenhorn, Württemberg 650<br />
Weingut F. J. Regnery<br />
54340 Klüsserath, Mosel 263<br />
Weingut Reibold<br />
67251 Freinsheim, Pfalz 403<br />
Privat-Sektkellerei Reinecker<br />
79424 Auggen, Baden 112<br />
Weingut Reinhardt<br />
67150 Niederkirchen, Pfalz 404<br />
Weingut Reis & Luff<br />
55459 Aspisheim, Rheinhessen 561<br />
Reis – feine Weine!<br />
56867 Briedel, Mosel 264<br />
Weingut Balthasar Ress<br />
65347 Eltville-Hattenheim, Rheingau 481<br />
Weingut Reverchon<br />
54329 Konz, Mosel 265<br />
Weingut Rieger<br />
79426 Buggingen, Baden 113<br />
Weingut Riffel<br />
55411 Bingen-Büdesheim, Rheinhessen 562<br />
Weingut Rinck<br />
76831 Heuchelheim-Klingen, Pfalz 405<br />
Weingut Rings<br />
67251 Freinsheim, Pfalz 406<br />
Weingut Erwin Riske<br />
53507 Dernau, Ahr 47<br />
Weingut Römerhof<br />
54340 Riol, Mosel 266<br />
Weingut Römmert<br />
97332 Volkach, Franken 171<br />
Weingut Roth<br />
97355 Wiesenbronn, Franken 172<br />
Weingut Rothe<br />
97334 Nordheim, Franken 173<br />
Rothes Gut Meißen<br />
01662 Meißen, Sachsen 594<br />
686 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
INDEX | WINE ESTATES<br />
S<br />
Weingut Schloss Saarstein<br />
54455 Serrig, Mosel 267<br />
Weingut Prinz Salm<br />
55595 Wallhausen, Nahe 308<br />
Weingut Salwey<br />
79235 Oberrotweil, Baden 114<br />
Weingut Familie Sauer<br />
76833 Böchingen, Pfalz 407<br />
Weingut Horst Sauer<br />
97332 Escherndorf, Franken 174<br />
Weingut Rainer Sauer<br />
97332 Escherndorf, Franken 175<br />
Weingut Joh. Bapt. Schäfer<br />
55452 Rümmelsheim, Nahe 309<br />
Weingut Schäfer-Fröhlich<br />
55595 Bockenau, Nahe 310<br />
Schamari Mühle<br />
65366 Johannisberg, Rheingau 482<br />
Weingut Schätzel<br />
55283 Nierstein, Rheinhessen 563<br />
Weingut Max Schell<br />
53506 Rech, Ahr 48<br />
Weingut Scherner-Kleinhanß<br />
67592 Flörsheim-Dalsheim, Rheinhessen 564<br />
Weingut von Schleinitz<br />
56330 Kobern-Gondorf, Mosel 268<br />
Weingut Konrad Schlör<br />
97877 Wertheim-Reicholzheim, Baden 115<br />
Privat-Weingut Schlumberger-Bernhart<br />
79295 Sulzburg-Laufen, Baden 116<br />
Weingut Schmidt am Bodensee<br />
88142 Wasserburg (Bodensee), Württemberg 651<br />
Weingut Bianka und Daniel Schmitt<br />
67592 Flörsheim-Dalsheim, Rheinhessen 565<br />
Weingut Schmitt<br />
67582 Mettenheim, Rheinhessen 566<br />
Weingut Schmitt’s Kinder<br />
97236 Randersacker, Franken 176<br />
Weingut Trockene Schmitts<br />
97236 Randersacker, Franken 177<br />
Weingut Rainer Schnaitmann<br />
70734 Fellbach, Württemberg 652<br />
Weingut Claus Schneider<br />
79576 Weil am Rhein, Baden 117<br />
Weingut K.H. Schneider<br />
55566 Bad Sobernheim, Nahe 311<br />
Weingut Schneider-Pfefferle<br />
79423 Heitersheim, Baden 118<br />
Weingut Nico Scholtens<br />
97514 Oberaurach, Franken 178<br />
Weingut Schloss Schönberg<br />
64625 Bensheim, Hessische Bergstraße 491<br />
Domänenweingut Schloss Schönborn<br />
65347 Eltville-Hattenheim, Rheingau 483<br />
Weingut Michael Schroth<br />
67269 Grünstadt-Asselheim, Pfalz 408<br />
Weingut Schuh<br />
01640 Sörnewitz, Sachsen 595<br />
Weingut Paul Schumacher<br />
53474 Marienthal, Ahr 49<br />
Weingut Schwab<br />
97291 Thüngersheim, Franken 179<br />
Weingut Schweder<br />
76879 Hochstadt, Pfalz 409<br />
Weingut Schwedhelm<br />
67308 Zellertal-Zell, Pfalz 410<br />
Weingut Albrecht Schwegler<br />
71404 Korb, Württemberg 653<br />
Weingut Lothar Schwörer<br />
77971 Kippenheim, Baden 119<br />
Weingut Seckinger<br />
67150 Niederkirchen, Pfalz 411<br />
Weingut Sermann<br />
53505 Altenahr, Ahr 50<br />
Shelter Winery<br />
79341 Kenzingen, Baden 120<br />
Weingut Georg Siben Erben<br />
67146 Deidesheim, Pfalz 412<br />
Weingut Siegloch<br />
71364 Winnenden, Württemberg 654<br />
SM Sektmanufaktur<br />
55444 Waldlaubersheim, Nahe 312<br />
Weingut Sohns<br />
65366 Geisenheim, Rheingau 484<br />
solveigs<br />
65366 Geisenheim, Rheingau 485<br />
Weingut Schloss Sommerhausen<br />
97286 Sommerhausen, Franken 180<br />
Weingut Josef Spreitzer<br />
65375 Oestrich, Rheingau 486<br />
Weingut St. Meinhard<br />
55545 Bad Kreuznach, Nahe 313<br />
Weingut Erich Stachel<br />
67487 Maikammer, Pfalz 413<br />
Winzerhof Stahl<br />
97215 Auernhofen, Franken 181<br />
Weingut Stauffer<br />
55234 Flomborn, Rheinhessen 567<br />
687
Weingut Karl Stein<br />
55585 Oberhausen, Nahe 314<br />
Weingut Steintal<br />
63911 Klingenberg, Franken 182<br />
Weingut Stern<br />
76879 Hochstadt, Pfalz 414<br />
Weingut Sterneisen<br />
73630 Remshalden, Württemberg 655<br />
Weingut Jean Stodden<br />
53506 Rech, Ahr 51<br />
Weingut Störrlein Krenig<br />
97236 Randersacker, Franken 183<br />
Strauch Sektmanufaktur<br />
67574 Osthofen, Rheinhessen 568<br />
Weingut Peter Stübinger<br />
76829 Leinsweiler, Pfalz 415<br />
Studert-Prüm-Maximinhof<br />
54470 Bernkastel-Wehlen, Mosel 269<br />
Weingut der Stadt Stuttgart<br />
70372 Stuttgart, Württemberg 656<br />
T<br />
Weingut von der Tann<br />
97346 Iphofen, Franken 184<br />
Weingut Wwe. Dr. H. Thanisch – Erben Müller-Burggraef<br />
54470 Bernkastel-Kues / Andel, Mosel 270<br />
Weingut Then<br />
97334 Sommerach, Franken 185<br />
Weingut Thörle<br />
55291 Saulheim, Rheinhessen 569<br />
Weingut Trautwein<br />
79353 Bahlingen, Baden 121<br />
Weingut Michael Trossen<br />
54536 Kröv, Mosel 271<br />
Weingut Daniel Twardowski<br />
54347 Neumagen-Dhron, Mosel 272<br />
U<br />
Weingut Ungerer<br />
74629 Pfedelbach, Württemberg 657<br />
Weinmanufaktur Untertürkheim<br />
70327 Stuttgart, Württemberg 658<br />
V<br />
Van Volxem<br />
54459 Wiltingen, Mosel 273<br />
Viermorgen Weinkooperative<br />
76889 Niederhorbach, Pfalz 416<br />
Weingut Villa Hochdörffer<br />
76829 Landau in der Pfalz, Pfalz 417<br />
Weingut Vinçon-Zerrer<br />
75038 Oberderdingen, Württemberg 659<br />
Demeter Weingut Klaus Vorgrimmler<br />
79112 Freiburg im Breisgau, Baden 122<br />
W<br />
Weingut Wachtstetter<br />
74397 Pfaffenhofen, Württemberg 660<br />
Sächsisches Staatsweingut Schloss Wackerbarth<br />
01445 Radebeul, Sachsen 596<br />
Wageck Weine<br />
67281 Bissersheim, Pfalz 418<br />
Weingut Dr. Heinz Wagner<br />
54439 Saarburg, Mosel 274<br />
Weingut Peter Wagner<br />
79235 Vogtsburg im Kaiserstuhl, Baden 123<br />
Weingut Felix Waldkirch<br />
76835 Rhodt unter Rietburg, Pfalz 419<br />
Weingut Wasem<br />
55218 Ingelheim am Rhein, Rheinhessen 570<br />
Weingut Fritz Waßmer<br />
79189 Bad Krozingen-Schlatt, Baden 124<br />
Weingut Martin Waßmer<br />
79189 Bad Krozingen-Schlatt, Baden 125<br />
Udo Weber<br />
55569 Monzingen, Nahe 315<br />
Weingut Weber<br />
55435 Gau-Algesheim, Rheinhessen 571<br />
Weingut Wechsler<br />
67593 Westhofen, Rheinhessen 572<br />
Weingut Weedenborn<br />
55234 Monzernheim, Rheinhessen 573<br />
Weingüter Wegeler – Gutshaus Mosel<br />
54470 Bernkastel-Kues, Mosel 275<br />
Weingüter Wegeler – Gutshaus Rheingau<br />
65375 Oestrich-Winkel, Rheingau 487<br />
Weingut Karl Wegner<br />
67098 Bad Dürkheim, Pfalz 420<br />
Weingut Robert Weil<br />
65399 Kiedrich, Rheingau 488<br />
Weinbiet Manufaktur<br />
67435 Neustadt an der Weinstraße, Pfalz 421<br />
Weingut Im Weinegg<br />
65239 Hochheim am Main, Rheingau 489<br />
Weinfactum<br />
70376 Stuttgart, Württemberg 661<br />
Weinmanufaktur 3 Zeilen<br />
97348 Rödelsee, Franken 186<br />
Wein- und Sektgut Wilhelmshof<br />
76833 Siebeldingen, Pfalz 422<br />
688 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021
INDEX | WINE ESTATES<br />
Weingut Willems-Willems<br />
54329 Konz-Oberemmel, Mosel 276<br />
Weingut Katrin Wind<br />
76829 Arzheim, Pfalz 423<br />
Weingut Werther Windisch<br />
55278 Mommenheim, Rheinhessen 574<br />
Weingut von Winning<br />
67146 Deidesheim, Pfalz 424<br />
Weingut Hans Wirsching<br />
97346 Iphofen, Franken 187<br />
Collegium Wirtemberg<br />
70327 Stuttgart, Württemberg 662<br />
Weingut Wittmann<br />
67593 Westhofen, Rheinhessen 575<br />
Weinbau Dr. Wobar<br />
01983 Großräschen, Brandenburg 599<br />
Weingut Wöhrle<br />
77933 Lahr, Baden 126<br />
Weingut Wöhrwag<br />
70327 Stuttgart-Untertürkheim, Württemberg 663<br />
Weingut Josef Wörner<br />
67483 Edesheim, Pfalz 425<br />
Weingut WoW<br />
67281 Bissersheim, Pfalz 426<br />
Weingut Herzog von Württemberg<br />
71634 Ludwigsburg, Württemberg 664<br />
Weingut Würtzberg<br />
54455 Serrig, Mosel 277<br />
Z<br />
Weingut Zähringer<br />
79423 Heitersheim, Baden 127<br />
Weingut Zehnthof – Familie Weickert<br />
97334 Sommerach, Franken 188<br />
Weingut Zelt<br />
67229 Laumersheim, Pfalz 427<br />
Weingut Hanspeter Ziereisen<br />
79588 Efringen-Kirchen, Baden 128<br />
Weingut Zimmer-Mengel<br />
55270 Engelstadt, Rheinhessen 576<br />
Weingut Zimmermann<br />
67157 Wachenheim, Pfalz 428<br />
Weingut Zimmermann<br />
79418 Schliengen, Baden 129<br />
Weingut Zink – Die Weinschmiede<br />
67592 Flörsheim-Dalsheim, Rheinhessen 577<br />
Weingut Zipf<br />
74245 Löwenstein, Württemberg 665<br />
Weingut Julius Zotz<br />
79423 Heitersheim, Baden 130<br />
All opening hours are to be understood as regular opening hours. Due to the<br />
COVID-19 pandemic and the associated restrictions, these may vary. Please<br />
check the respective websites for more information.<br />
689
IMPRINT<br />
FALSTAFF WINE GUIDE<br />
GERMANY 2021<br />
MEDIA OWNER<br />
Falstaff Deutschland GmbH<br />
PUBLISHER<br />
Wolfgang M. Rosam<br />
Ulrich Sautter<br />
MANAGING DIRECTOR<br />
Mag. Elisabeth Kamper<br />
Ronald Tomandl MSc<br />
PUBLISHING DIRECTOR<br />
Claudia Roman Navarro<br />
Carlsplatz 18<br />
D-40213 Düsseldorf<br />
T: +49 (211) 9666299 0<br />
F: +49 (211) 9666299 9<br />
www.falstaff.de<br />
info@falstaff.de<br />
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Susanne Förster<br />
DISTRIBUTION & MARKETING<br />
Dagmar Sebold<br />
ART DIRECTOR MARKETING & SALES<br />
Thomas Kepplinger<br />
PRINTING<br />
parzeller print & media GmbH & Co. KG, Fulda<br />
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF<br />
Ulrich Sautter<br />
MANAGING EDITOR<br />
Manuela Dressel, Petra Kirchmayer,<br />
Rainer Schäfer<br />
CONTRIBUTING AUTHORS<br />
Thomas Curtius<br />
Heinz Kirchhoff<br />
Matthias Neske<br />
Rainer Schäfer<br />
Elena Scheer<br />
EDITORIAL<br />
Atalay Aytan, Michael Breitner,<br />
Benedikt Brunmayr, Katharina<br />
Holowka-Grünwidl, Georg<br />
Morawitz-Holeschofsky, Victoria Neuner,<br />
Noa Oestreicher, Lisa Steiner<br />
TRANSLATION<br />
Anne Krebiehl MW<br />
PROOFREADING<br />
Lucy Bridgers, Artemis Burger,<br />
Kate Dowdeswell, Claire Love,<br />
Heather Miller<br />
ART DIRECTOR/LAYOUT<br />
Marcus Wiesner<br />
WEINGUIDE D 2021<br />
ISBN: 978-3-9822182-1-2<br />
GTIN: 419 32968 1990 9 01<br />
Price: 19,90 €<br />
690 falstaff Wine Guide Germany 2021