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KOLLEKTION DES JAHRES 2020<br />

Stefanie und Fabian Lassak betreiben auf<br />

nur drei Hektar Rebfläche seit 2016 ein<br />

kleines, feines Manufaktur-Weingut<br />

MORE THAN JUST<br />

HIGH SCORES<br />

Our ‘Wine Range of the Year‘ should embody various attributes: Individuality,<br />

style, a certain seamlessness, reliability. Just a handful of extraordinarily<br />

successful wines are not enough. With the wines from the 2019 vintage,<br />

Cornelius Dönnhoff does justice to all these points - in outstanding fashion.<br />

WORDS ULRICH SAUTTER<br />

Photos: Stefan Haehnel, Photography was provided<br />

Dönnhoff’s current wines meet<br />

the very first of the above<br />

criteria with distinction. The<br />

wines are as individual as the<br />

sites in which they originate. In this<br />

regard, Dönnhoff continues in his father<br />

Helmut’s vein: never force anything on the<br />

wines but allow diligent and careful work<br />

in the vineyard to become the foundation<br />

of genuine – and individual – site expression.<br />

It is exemplary, however, how Cornelius<br />

Dönnhoff has managed not to disappear<br />

in his father Helmut Dönnhoff’s rather<br />

large footsteps – and this takes us straight<br />

to the question of style: Cornelius<br />

Dönnhoff’s current Rieslings set new<br />

standards – well beyond the confines of<br />

the Nahe region – in terms of freshness,<br />

elegance and mineral depth. When he first<br />

took the reins at this family estate in<br />

Oberhausen, you might have thought that<br />

his versions of Dellchen, Felsenberg and<br />

Hermannshöhle were just a little more dry<br />

than before but since then, and certainly<br />

with his 2019 vintage, it becomes clear:<br />

more dry, yes, but also pithier, even richer<br />

in detail and pervaded by almost incredible<br />

tension. Helmut Dönnhoff will be able to<br />

take these statements in his stride because<br />

his own wines already were, and still are,<br />

in a class of their own, quite regardless of<br />

the fact that his son has now catapulted<br />

them into a new age in thrilling fashion.<br />

The next criterion: a certain seamlessness.<br />

Cornelius Dönnhoff’s 2019 range of wines<br />

gives the impression that each wine is<br />

positioned exactly where it should be. The<br />

Grosse Gewächse are clearly distinct from<br />

19

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