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20213041_WGDE2021_ENGL

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FRANKEN | A PORTRAIT OF THE REGION<br />

will strike gold with a madman like Andi<br />

Weigand, an anarchist like Laura Seufert<br />

or experimentalists like the Krämers. And<br />

by the way, for me all these attributes are<br />

positive.<br />

But no matter into which camps you want<br />

to assign these people, the former, the<br />

latter or anywhere in between, there is no<br />

shortage of stubbornness and that’s<br />

precisely why the wines are so good!<br />

VINEYARD CHAT<br />

These vineyards are stony! That’s just<br />

great when you stand there at a perceived<br />

heat of 50°C/122°F. Then there’s the killer<br />

steepness, better still, when you lose your<br />

footing, like I did when I worked for the<br />

“Trockene Schmitts” in the Randersackerer<br />

Pfülben. But despite my whinging; it was<br />

fun to be in the vineyard with these<br />

winemakers. It is wonderful to experience<br />

with how much passion the vines are<br />

tended. Like children. Like tiny<br />

Silvaner- babies, or something like that. In<br />

any case, stubbornness defines the<br />

Franconian vineyard. Nothing is left to<br />

chance. One leaf too many during deleafing<br />

is a gross mistake on the part of<br />

the trainee and prompts a renewed lecture<br />

The masterminds behind Weingut Trockene<br />

Schmitts: brothers Bruno and Paul Schmitt<br />

and Paul’s son Lothar<br />

on the art of canopy management. Things<br />

just have to be done properly. But exactly<br />

that attention to detail results in great<br />

wine in the end. The vine and its fruit:<br />

that’s what everything hinges on in the<br />

end.<br />

But this also is true: “You have to trust<br />

your vines,” one of the winemakers told<br />

me. And yet I do not know a greater<br />

mechanic and machine-freak than<br />

Photos: Photography was provided<br />

Weingut Juliusspital – the biggest grower<br />

of Silvaner in the world<br />

141

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