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RHEINGAU | A PORTRAIT OF THE REGION<br />

Photos: provided, Deutsches Weininstitut/www.deutscheweine.de<br />

approach is that even – and especially –<br />

the slate soils need a little fat, i.e. loam or<br />

clay and therefore water retention, in<br />

order to deliver consistent results.<br />

Dünkelberg’s motivation is equally clear in<br />

Kiedrich where he awards higher<br />

classifications to parcels of “loess-slope<br />

loam with admixture of mica schist” than<br />

those of “weathered mica schist with<br />

non-calcareous loess-loam admixture”.<br />

Which means? More loam with a little<br />

mica schist is better than mica schist with<br />

a little loam. Today the consequences of<br />

climate change come on top of these<br />

multifarious effects. For the most part they<br />

seem to have been considered in the VDP’s<br />

classification. Ripening grapes is no longer<br />

restricted to fully south-facing sites. And if<br />

the possibility of irrigation will compensate<br />

for the dryness of certain sites in the future,<br />

it will merely make the mosaic of Rheingau<br />

sites even more complex.<br />

LIMESTONE<br />

One element which usually has high currency<br />

across the world of wine but is often<br />

overlooked in the Rheingau is limestone.<br />

Sites near the river like Marcobrunn, Sankt<br />

Nikolaus and Jesuitengarten benefit – like the<br />

By now, Philipp Corvers of Weingut<br />

Dr. Corvers-Kauter and his father farm<br />

30 hectares of vineyards together<br />

best limestone sites of Rheinhessen on the<br />

opposite bank of the Rhine – from the<br />

calcareous substrates of the Mainz Basin<br />

which approximately 20 million years ago<br />

used to be an inland sea. If you thus want to<br />

subdivide the Rheingau sensibly, the relevant<br />

question for the categorisation of any<br />

vineyard might be formulated as follows:<br />

where within that square of soil depth,<br />

calcareousness, presence of quartzite/slate<br />

and altitude is it located? Normally you<br />

would expect that deep soils and<br />

calcareousness correlate with valley sites. The<br />

two outer points of Hochheim and Lorch fit<br />

this profile: Hochheim with its heavy loess<br />

loams and calcareous marls near the river,<br />

Lorch with shallow soils and stony slopes.<br />

However, the Rheingau also boasts sites like<br />

the Steinberg that combines the depth of its<br />

soils with altitude and slate. In the end, and<br />

that really means that the Rheingau, within<br />

your glass, thus remains complex and hard to<br />

fathom. What a pleasure.<br />

INFO<br />

Lord over poor slate and heavy<br />

loam soils: Dr. Matthias Corvers<br />

of Weingut Dr. Corvers-Kauter<br />

Read more about this author in our Tasting<br />

Panel chapter on page 12.<br />

441

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