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FRANKEN | A PORTRAIT OF THE REGION<br />

It is not a beautiful subject but not one<br />

we can skate over. In 2019, for instance,<br />

Rudi May in Retzstadt had the lowest<br />

yields in the entire history of his wine<br />

estate. There was, however, some small<br />

comfort in the fact that the few grapes he<br />

could harvest were of superb quality and<br />

the resulting wines, beautifully complex.<br />

An extreme version of yield reduction,<br />

one could say. Where 2020 is concerned,<br />

Nina Bunzelt said: “Whatever fruit survived<br />

the frost will have great quality.”<br />

Apart from the spring frost, 2019 was a<br />

very warm, dry year. The fruit was super<br />

healthy throughout, comes with fine aromatics<br />

and has more of an acidic spine<br />

than 2018.<br />

And note, I am returning to the fun bits. I<br />

also assume that my former schoolteacher<br />

is belatedly awarding me poor marks for<br />

the sheer number of times I am using the<br />

term “dry” in this text. In any case, it is of<br />

no importance. Dry, dry, dry! That is<br />

Franken.<br />

But hang on. What’s going on here? Schloss<br />

Sommerhausen is making mischief again.<br />

Martin Steinmann completes his portfolio<br />

of grandiose, bone-dry Sekts with some<br />

At Weingut Rainer Sauer father Rainer makes<br />

classically vinified wines while son Daniel offers<br />

contemporary creations<br />

that have gentle residual sweetness. But<br />

let’s be honest, who doesn’t love a Kabinett<br />

style. And imagine it with fizz. Really cool.<br />

And now imagine slightly hot cuisine. Just<br />

another string to Franken’s bow.<br />

INFO<br />

Read more about this author in our Tasting Panel<br />

chapter on page 12.<br />

Photos: Photography was provided<br />

Martin Steinmann – Jack of all trades and<br />

master of everything at Schloss Sommerhausen<br />

143

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