British Travel Journal | Summer 2021

BRITISH TRAVEL 

JOURNAL 

explore the british isles 

SUMMER 2021 | ISSUE 09 

BRITISHTRAVELJOURNAL.COM 

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C O N T R I B U T I O N S 


JOURNAL 

BritishTravelJournal.com 

Welcome 

EDITOR’S LETTER 

— 

EDITORS 

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jessica Way 

FEATURES EDITOR Samantha Rutherford 

CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Angela Harding 

CONTRIBUTORS 

Chantal Borciani, Sophie Farrah, 

Helen Holmes, Emma Johnson, 

Adrian Mourby, Emma O’Reilly, 

Lydia Paleschi, Adrienne Wyper 

COVER PHOTO 

— 

Sailing yachts in Hunters Yard, Ludham, 

near Great Yarmouth, Norfolk 

© VisitEngland/Broads Authority/Julian Claxton 

Published by 

CONTISTA MEDIA 

Mitchell House, Brook Avenue, Warsash, 

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original copyright holder. Reproduction in whole or part without 

written permission is strictly prohibited. While every care is taken 

prices and details are subject to change and Contista Media Ltd 

take no responsibility for omissions or errors. Views expressed by 

authors are not necessarily those of the publisher. 

CAN YOU REMEMBER the last time you 

stepped foot on a sandy shore, wandered along 

a countryside path with the scents of summer 

bloom, or enjoyed fresh local produce cooked 

for you to perfection in a beautiful setting? 

It has felt like a long time to be deprived of the richness and 

fulfilment travel brings - exploring new places, spending a night at 

your favourite hotel, unwinding in a spa, or enjoying an afternoon 

tea in a beautiful garden. While we might have forgotten how good 

this all feels, our desire to travel has not been lost. 

This issue is all about health, wellness and meaningful travel – 

‘slow travel’ (as it has recently been dubbed). So, if you’re looking 

for an unforgettable trip, to be enjoyed at your own pace, then we 

hope you will find plenty of inspiration within our summer features. 

Our top ten life-affirming Health Breaks, p86 are guaranteed 

to reboot the body and mind, while our Best Tall Ship and Sailing 

Adventures, p50 offer the ultimate active escapism. 

The brand-new collection of curated National Parks experiences, 

p32 are not to be missed, and our Top Eco-Attractions, p44 

showcase the very best of our natural world. 

If spending 48 Hours in Babbacombe, South Devon appeals, I 

hope you will enjoy my recent memoir, p78, and if a historic town 

is on your summer agenda, lace your boots up ready for a walk 

around the picturesque Chester City Walls, p92. 

If all this wanderlust is leaving you feeling thirsty, yet hungry for 

more, Mead Bubbly from Bees, p18 and our Chef’s Table, round up of 

the best gourmet dining experiences, p72 should hopefully hit-thespot 

- leaving no excuses for an evening of epicurean-delights. 

Hotels and destinations across the British Isles have never been 

more ready to welcome us back - I am delighted to be setting off on 

my British journeys again soon, and I hope you will be too - wishing 

you a safe and magical, extraordinary summer! 

@BritishTravelJournal 

Jessica x 

JESSICA WAY 

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF 

– 

@BritishTravelJournal 

@BTravelJournal 

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CONTENTS 


— 

44 

32 

IMAGE © VISITBRITAIN/ROD EDWARDS/MALCOLMSNELGROVE 

JOTTINGS 

09 

TRAVEL NEWS 

Our selection of the finest new staycation 

packages, from safari park luxury lodges to the 

latest five-star hotel in the centre of London, there’s 

something new in the city, coast and countryside. 

MEET THE MAKERS OF MEAD 

18 BUBBLY FROM BEES 

We’re going mad over mead this summer, made 

from just two ingredients: water and honey… and 

perhaps the world’s oldest alcoholic drink. 

HARBOUR HOTELS 

24 Drift away with us while discovering more 

about this exciting hotel brand's new Sleep Retreat 

in Richmond and Beach Club in Salcombe - both 

launching this summer. 

FOR YOUR JOURNEY 

100 Latest travel essentials and crossword. 

FEATURES 

32 

NATIONAL PARKS EXPERIENCES 

A brand-new collection of curated experiences 

has launched this summer across England’s nine 

iconic National Parks, from bushcraft to goat herding, 

kayaking to night-time reserve walks. 

TOP ECO-ATTRACTIONS 

44 Be inspired and educated, as well as 

entertained, by visiting our top ten UK projects 

which showcase our natural world at the same time 

as working to protect it. 

THE BEST OF TALL SHIPS AND 

50 SAILING ADVENTURES 

From metropolitan marinas and busy ports to the 

open seas and peaceful archipelagos, sailing is the 

definition of both freedom and excitement. 

à 


64 

E D I T O R 

L O V E S 

Add a splash of retro chic to your 

summer wardrobe with these 

Rhodium framed sunglasses - part 

of the new Silhouette collection, Sun 

Lite, priced £260. #tryitwearitloveit 

silhouette.com 

The White Company's perfect 

on-the-go essential for holidays 

and weekends away, Spa 

Restore Essentials Set, along 

with a useful Spa Headband and 

Waffle Bag to keep all the pieces 

together. Refreshingly cool and 

rejuvenating, it feels like walking 

into a luxurious spa, priced £55. 

thewhitecompany.com 

78 

DESTINATIONS 

64 

OUTDOOR DIPS 

Our top outdoor pools for taking 

the plunge this summer, from laps in fivestar 

luxury, soaking up the skyline from a 

city rooftop to reconnecting with nature in a 

stylish swimming ‘pond’. 

CHEF'S TABLE 

72 Discover staycation dining with 

our round up of the best gourmet at-home 

dining options from Michelin chef catering to 

curated menus delivered direct to your door. 

48 HOURS IN BABBACOMBE 

78 With rugged sandstone cliffs and 

azure-blue waters, the coastal scenery 

surrounding Cary Arms Hotel & Spa in 

Babbacombe, South Devon, is beautiful 

enough to rival the Mediterranean. 

72 

HEALTH BREAKS 

88 Relax, get fit, reboot body and mind 

and be pampered…all is possible, and at a 

social distance, on these revitalising, lifeaffirming 

breaks around the British Isles. 

WALKING TOUR OF CHESTER 

94 CITY WALLS 

Now that we are able to wander around 

Britain's towns again, visiting historic sites 

and stopping somewhere picturesque for a 

relaxing lunch, the walled city of Chester is 

at the top of our list. 

Subscription Offer 

Subscribe to three issues of 

British Travel Journal for just 

£19 and receive the ultimate 

getaway essential from Noble 

Isle worth over £20, while 

stocks last. (See more p30). 

britishtraveljournal.com/ 

subscribe 

Plus sign up to our e-newsletter 

britishtraveljournal.com/newsletter 

6 BritishTravelJournal.com

GREAT GIFT IDEAS 

The best 

birthday gift 

for 2021? 

Are you looking for a brilliant birthday 

present idea? 

W 

ith the end of lockdown rapidly approaching, 

staycations are finally back on the agenda with 

Britain’s beautiful hotels ready to reopen their 

doors. So, whether you’ve got a birthday coming up or you know 

someone who does, there’s no better way to celebrate than with 

the gift of Roomcard. 

Roomcard is the digital gift card for the world’s 10,000 most 

inspirational hotels, covering the very best of Britain and beyond. 

Roomcard allows you to add your own customised wrapping 

and personal greeting – whether you prefer a video, photo gallery, 

spoken or written message. Schedule the delivery of Roomcard 

at precisely your chosen time, and then, right on cue, it 

will be delivered straight to the recipient’s phone. roomcard.com 

TM 

Stay, inspired.

Are you making the most 

of your holiday home? 

At Rural Retreats our team is dedicated to managing your holiday home with 

the same care and attention you would, ensuring it fulfils its full potential. 

With a range of tailored services to suit your needs, you can be as involved as 

much as you like, knowing that you and your guests will be well looked after. 

01386 898 658 

newowners@ruralretreats.co.uk 

ruralretreats.co.uk

LOOKING AHEAD... 

TRAVEL NEWS 

Reignite your passion for travel this summer with our selection of what's 

new from hotels, restaurants and visitor attractions across the British Isles 

PEAK DISTRICT 

The Tawny 

If you are looking for a unique, rural and eco-friendly 

retreat for your next staycation then consider The 

Tawny. This is, as they describe, 'a hotel like no other'. 

Accommodation is private and rural, comprising of 

wildwood huts, treehouses, romantic boathouses, 

luxury retreats - and our personal favourite, the 

Lookout - with freestanding bathtub and private deck 

with an outdoor spa bath and shower. Could this be 

the ultimate country escape we all need? Bathe outside 

under starlit skies, enjoy the perfect picnic, share a 

meal with gorgeous views of the transformed Consall 

Gardens with stunning natural beauty all around - and, 

should you need it, there's a fabulous restaurant, room 

service, and heated outdoor pool on the estate too. ◆ 

thetawny.co.uk 

Editor loves 

EDINBURGH 

Audio & Award 

Scottish actor, Mark Bonnar, best known for his 

roles as Duncan Hunter in Shetland, Bruno Jenkins in 

Casualty, and DCC Mike Dryden in Line of Duty, is the 

new voice behind The Royal Yacht Britannia's brilliant 

audio tour commentary - available to all museum 

visitors. Not only this - the 'outstanding attraction' has 

just been awarded Best UK Attraction 2020 by Which? 

Magazine - and we say, it's well deserved. ◆ 

royalyachtbritannia.co.uk 


New hotels and restaurants 

CHELSEA 

The Apartments by 11 

Cadogan Gardens 

Following the recent launch of The Mayfair 

Townhouse, Iconic Luxury Hotels (owners of 

Chewton Glen, Cliveden House and The Lygon 

Arms) have opened their doors to yet more 

luxurious accommodation in the capital. The 

Apartments by 11 Cadogan Gardens are in the 

heart of Chelsea life. Knightsbridge, Harrods 

and the Saatchi Gallery are all around the 

corner, and just a stone’s throw away is 

Chelsea’s bustling Sloane Square. Stay and 

enjoy 11 Cadogan Gardens own Hans’ Bar & 

Grill, nestled amongst the artisanal shops and 

food suppliers of picturesque Pavilion Road. 

Prices from £270 per night. ◆ 

11cadogangardens.com 

BERKSHIRE 

North Lodge, Coworth Park 

Coworth Park - one of the three extraordinary 

British hotels owned by the iconic Dorchester 

collection (the other two being 45 Park Lane and 

The Dorchester) is an idyllic 70-bedroom Mansion 

House, yet nestled within its 240 acre grounds 

there are more hidden treasures to discover. 

The latest gem to be unveilled is North Lodge, 

a delightfully cosy gatehouse cottage, and the 

second in their collection of private signature 

suites, alongside The Dower House - a Grade II 

listed cottage built in 1775. North Lodge is set 

amongst idyllic private gardens, and has been 

beautifully restored with its own idyllic country 

garden, three en-suite bedrooms, a roll-top 

bath, gated entrance, state-of-the-art kitchen 

and private chef. To elevate the experience, spa 

therapists can even perform treatments in the 

comfort of your suite. Pure bliss! ◆ 

dorchestercollection.com 


SURREY 

Vineyards of the Surrey Hills 

One of the home counties is giving the French a run for their money 

with a newly-formed collective of five vineyards set in an Area of 

Outstanding Natural Beauty, inviting you to try their English Wines. 

surreyhillsvineyards.co.uk 

VALE OF AYLESBURY 

Fine dining at Waddesdon 

The grounds to Waddesdon's Windmill Hill have been 

opened to visitors for the first time, offering a new 

award-winning dining experience. Pictured right, 

these new dining domes, set between the cutting-edge 

art and architecture, offer fine dining experiences 

within a covid-safe bubble. You are also located high 

on the hill, overlooking the Vale of Aylesbury - the 

same spectacular view which first drew Ferdinand de 

Rothschild to Waddesdon in 1874. You can now dine in 

a location which has never been open to guests before, 

enjoying fresh seasonal menus paired with delicious 

cocktails and wines. Lunch, afternoon tea and dinner 

sittings are available from 20 May-13 June. ◆ 

diningdomes.group/waddesdonwindmillhill 

New whisky experience 

SUTHERLAND 

Highland home of Johnnie Walker 

Located on Scotland’s North Coast 500 route through the world 

famous Highlands, the previously named Clynelish Distillery experience 

has been completely reimagined as 'world-beating, multi-sensory 

and interactive'. There's also a brand new terrace bar (pictured left) 

overlooking Brora’s rolling hills from which to enjoy a Scotch highball 

or dram. Plus there is excitement building around the brand-new, 

much-anticipated, Johnnie Walker Princes Street whisky visitor experience 

opening in Edinburgh this summer too. We'll cheer Slàinte Mhath to that. ◆ 

malts.com/en-gb/tours 


Family adventures 

CHISWICK 

Bring Into Being 

Chiswick House & Gardens is a popular 

family attraction - a Roman style Palladian 

villa designed by the Third Earl of 

Burlington and 65-acre Grade-1 listed, 

award-winning Gardens, but now there's 

another reason to visit. In a new direction, 

the 18th century heritage site has launched 

a creative artistic programme, Bring Into 

Being (27 May - 31 October 2021), featuring 

three site-specific artwork installations by 

Turner-prize winning artist Mark Wallinger, 

esteemed sound artist Peter Adjaye and 

installation artist Jaimini Patel. 

Prices Adults £11, Family £23.50. ◆ 

chiswickhouseandgardens.org.uk 

HERTFORDSHIRE 

The Grove 

Set in 300 acres of verdant Hertfordshire countryside, this ultimate 

five-star retreat has been completely remastered. Following a twoyear 

long refurbishment, all three of their restaurants, lobby and west 

wing bedrooms have been completely transformed, re-emerging after 

lockdown as a new hotel. Lovingly restored, The Grove is the former 

home of the Earls of Clarendon, with a rich history dating back to 

the 1500s. In addition to 215 luxurious guestrooms, The Grove has an 

award-winning spa, championship golf course, an original Walled 

Garden, heated outdoor pool and even boasts its own ‘beach'. 

Nightly rates start from £370 for a West Wing Classic Room. ◆ 

thegrove.co.uk 

COVENT GARDEN 

The Art of Banksy 

The world’s largest collection of privately owned Banksy art is now on view 

in Earlham Street in a new exhibition until 20 November, having previously 

travelled across the globe from Toronto to Melbourne. artofbanksy.co.uk 

IMAGE © RICKARD MONÉUS 


NATIONWIDE 

The Ultimate Staycation Breakfast 

Heading off on holiday? Delivered straight to your holiday 

home, the Staycation Bundle contains everything you need for 

a delicious, hearty breakfast, to include Dry Cured Back Bacon, 

Cacklebean Mixed Chicken Eggs and British Piccolo Tomatoes. 

The Staycation Bundle is priced £22.50, 44foods.com 

SOUTH WALES 

Zip World Tower 

Zip World have launched a new site, Zip World 

Tower, set in the iconic Rhigos mountain 

range with stunning views that overlook the 

beautiful Welsh landscape, including the 

Brecon Beacons. The adventure hub is home 

to Phoenix, the world’s fastest seated zip line, 

Big Red, a mobile zip version for kids, and 

Tower Coaster, a toboggan-style rollercoaster 

(if you dare!). The site is situated at the old 

Tower Colliery coal mining site - the oldest 

continuously working deep coal mine in the 

UK, prior to its closure in 2008 - and Zip World 

Tower has been designed to create a lasting 

legacy to its deep-rooted mining heritage. ◆ 

zipworld.co.uk/location/tower 

You might also enjoy 

WORCESTERSHIRE 

Safari Park Animal Lodges 

West Midland Safari Park have launched their long-awaited Safari 

Lodges, welcoming guests to stay for the very first time at the luxury 

overnight accommodation. Six of the lodges offer the only overnight 

experience with elephants in the UK, whilst two more lodges offer 

incredible views of the Park’s cheetahs , designed to give guests an 

immersive and unforgettable overnight wildlife experience. Prices start 

from £171 per adult per night and £147 per night for a child. ◆ 

safari-lodges.co.uk 


We love 

The Snuggy 

If you're heading on a glamping trip, pod, log cabin or shepherd 

hut style, where sitting around a fire pit in the evening and toasting 

marshmallows is a must then we recommend adding a super soft 

fleece Snuggy to your packing list. Available in five different colours, 

priced £59.99, or for children £34.99, snuggy.shop 

NORTH NORFOLK 

Godwick Hall 

'Schlamping' is the new term for glamping at Godwick Hall, with 

the launch of their three stunning new luxurious shepherds huts. 

Set in 100 acres of quintessential English countryside with sheep 

dotted about the pastures and the lost medieval village of Godwick, 

which is open to explore. Think oak wooden floors, butler sinks and 

narrowboat wood burners, outdoor firepits and plenty of extra wood. 

Just add a glass of fizz and marvel at the stars for the perfect ‘getting 

away from it all’ experience. In the morning enjoy a continental or 

bacon buttie breakfast delivered to the hut before setting out to 

explore the Norfolk countryside and beautiful beaches. Shepherd's 

Huts prices from £90/night minimum two night stay. ◆ 

godwickhall.co.uk 

CORNWALL 

Water's Edge 

Who doesn’t want to be by the water’s edge 

right now? With more of us searching for 

properties to accommodate large family 

groups, this wonderful five bedroom retreat 

close to the sea in Mawgan Porth must fill you 

with multi-generation travelust. Not only is it 

a short stroll from the beach, it’s also just steps 

from the South West Coastal Path – perfect for 

combining fitness with fabulous views. It is also 

just around the corner from The Scarlett, which 

offers amazing spa treatments and a wonderful 

swimming pool as well as incredible meals. 

Prices from £1,719 for a long weekend or 

mid week break. ◆ 

boutique-retreats.co.uk 



PICCADILLY 

The Dilly 

Have you missed dancing? The Dilly is not only the latest five-star hotel 

to open in the centre of London, but the first to offer its own dedicated 

dance studio – Inspiration 2 Dance. For private groups and family 

lessons, guests are invited to learn Smooth, Latin and/or Ballroom from 

world-class teachers. Bookable via the website or the hotel’s concierge. 

Room rates start from £219, thedillylondon.com 

SHROPSHIRE 

Sham Castle 

Searching for a stay with the wow factor? 

Built in 1780, this beautiful Grade II* listed 

folly boasts far reaching, panoramic and 

spectacular views across rolling countryside to 

the Wrekin and has it in droves. Its enviable, 

elevated position on top of a rock knoll 

overlooks a lake and 1.75 acres of enclosed 

gardens. Enjoy sun loungers and fruit trees - 

when the fruit is ripe you are welcome to pick 

what you want. Sham Castle is the perfect 

romantic escape - needless to say, you could 

lose yourselves here for days. 

Sleeps four guests, prices from £867 for a 3-night 

stay with welcome hamper included. ◆ 

ruralretreats.co.uk 

You might also enjoy 

BUCKINGHAMSHIRE 

Horwood House 

For those looking for a touch of rural luxury, stunning Grade II listed country 

house hotel Horwood House is just the ticket. Steeped in history and set 

deep within the idyllic Buckinghamshire countryside, the hotel has reopened 

following an extensive £5.5 million refurbishment of its 165 bedrooms, lounge 

areas, 38 acres of landscaped gardens and new restaurants. It has launched 

a series of new staycation packages, such as Picnic in the Park, which includes 

an overnight stay, breakfast, dinner, picnic afternoon tea for you to enjoy al 

fresco – sandwiches with a side of nature. Priced at £189 for two people. ◆ 

horwoodhouse.co.uk 



MEET THE MAKERS OF... 

MEAD 

BUBBLY FROM BEES 

Perhaps the world’s oldest alcoholic drink, mead is 

made from just two ingredients: water and honey… 

Words | Adrienne Wyper 

RECORDS SHOW THAT mead was made as long ago as 

8,000BC, and some sources believe it may have originally 

occurred naturally, when honey and rainwater mixed in 

the hollow of a tree and fermented, later to be spotted and 

sampled by curious humans. 

Since then, production techniques have become more sophisticated, 

and yeast is added, to supplement the natural yeasts in the 

atmosphere. Simple yet versatile, mead can vary widely, from deep 

caramel to pale lemon in colour, from dry to sweet, still or sparkling. 

And its alcohol content can range from around four per cent, on a 

par with beer, up to 20%, similar to a fortified wine. 

Mead made from more than honey and water has several different 

names: with added herbs or spices it’s metheglin; with fruit such 

as cherries or blackberries, which helped to preserve the harvest in 

past times, it’s melomel, or cyser if apple is added; and pyment, with 

grape juice. Special honeys, such as orange blossom or heather, can 

influence the taste of the finished product. 

With all this natural variation, there’s a mead to suit all tastes and 

à 


“ 

New meadmakers position the world’s 

oldest drink as a contemporary choice, a 

traditional drink brought up to date, in the 

same way as craft beer 

” 

all drinking occasions. Many factors inspire a thirst for mead: whether 

it’s a desire for local produce with a sense of terroir (mead is made all 

over the UK), an appreciation of the work of bees and beekeepers, a 

taste for a natural product, a taste for heritage, or simply the urge to try 

something new to you. 

And it’s as varied and versatile as wine. Rod Marsh, who runs the 

Cider Barn at Middle Farm (middlefarm.com), a fun-packed working 

family farm near the South Downs in East Sussex, which sells 92 bottled 

and 18 draught meads, says: “one could readily fashion a meal with a 

mead for each course, followed by mead liqueur, and even a distilled 

mead nightcap!” 

He has seen the drink’s popularity rise in recent years: “When we 

started selling mead the only customers were local white witch covens 

and re-enactment societies. It has definitely gone mainstream over the 

last 10 years. Growing public awareness of the plight of bees worldwide 

and a desperate need to find some national identity not associated with 

empire have both played a part. The historical association of it being 

widely renowned as an aphrodisiac has also, no doubt, had some effect.” 

For most people, mead may still be associated with mythical, mistsof-time 

images of Vikings and mediaeval monks – or even Game of 

Thrones – but new meadmakers position the world’s oldest drink as a 

contemporary choice, a traditional drink brought up to date, in the same 

way as craft beer. 

One of the crop of contemporary meadmakers is Gosnells of London 

Meadery (gosnells.co.uk), whose base in Peckham, south London, 

couldn’t be further from the flowery meadows that may come to mind 

when imagining mead-making. The company has a range of alestrength 

canned meads (4%), with innovative limited editions, such as 

coffee or blueberry and plantain, along with more traditional bottled 

meads. Founder Tom Gosnell says: “Our intention is to create elegant 

meads, more akin to sparkling wines or artisan ciders. They are lighter in 

colour than most high-alcohol meads, sparkling, fresh and vibrant. They 

show the subtlety of honey.” 


à 


The company, founded in 2013, puts a lot of effort into 

nurturing their natural raw material. “Gosnells’ postcode 

meads do demonstrate the trees, bushes and flowers in 

different areas of London and its surrounds. They are massively 

different from each other,” says Tom. “There is no added 

sugar (as in Champagne), and no need for balancing acids 

(as in wine), but mead is reliant on our populations of bees – 

so we are working on providing them with nectar all through 

the year.” To this end, the company has recently opened a 

‘mead garden’, with pollinating plants recommended by the 

Bumblebee Conservation Trust and London apiarists, and 

educational materials for visitors to help them be kind to 

pollinators. Embracing modern ways of reaching its market, the 

company holds monthly online tastings. 


And if mead strikes you as relatively expensive, 

consider the incredible industry required to produce its 

main ingredient. Mead is around three parts water to 

one part honey, and a bee needs to gather nectar from 

two million flowers to make one pound of honey. To 

reach all those flowers, she flies 90,000 miles, three 

times round the world. 

On cost, Rod cautions: “If you can buy a bottle 

of mead for under a tenner it is almost definitely a 

pyment, ie mixed with grape juice – a far cheaper 

commodity than honey.” 

As a man who knows his mead, Rod rates 

the following producers, as well as Gosnells. 

Baldur Mead by the Lancashire Mead Company 

(lancashiremeadcompany.co.uk), fermented 

out to dryness in the traditional manner. In the 

Scottish Highlands Christopher Mullins, an Iraq and 

Afghanistan veteran, at The Rookery Craft Mead 

(rookery.scot), fashions clean, natural and complex 

flavours from foraged ingredients including spruce, 

silver birch, crab apple, plum, sloe, lavender, pear, 

mint and ginger, creating seasonal ‘midwinter’ and 

‘midsummer’ brews, and even sells Viking-style 

drinking horns. In Cornwall there’s Ninemaidens 

“ 

If you can buy a bottle of mead 

for under a tenner it is almost 

definitely a pyment, ie mixed 

with grape juice – a far cheaper 

commodity than honey 

” 

Mead (ninemaidensmead.co.uk) with fruit, spiced 

and 40% distilled options. In Wales there’s Mountain 

Mead (mountainmead.co.uk), who suggest mixing 

mead with tonic or making a meady Kir royale 

by topping up their Telor y Coed medium-sweet 

mead with Champagne, and Wye Valley Meadery 

(wyevalleymeadery.co.uk), who apply modern 

brewing techniques to the most ancient beverage. 

In Rod’s opinion, the best examples of traditional 

mead are Dr Hugh Howard Tripp’s Pennard Vineyard 

Mead (12%; pennardorganicwines.co.uk/shop.asp) 

from Somerset, and Christopher Mullins’s Rookery 

Mead (17%), with the best liqueur mead “by far” 

Beeble (30%; beeble.buzz) from North Wiltshire 

made by Ellie Berry (beekeeper) and Matthew Brauer 

(bookkeeper) and fortified with fine Scotch whisky. 

Whether it’s a traditional true mead, or one with a 

21st-century twist, mead is creating a bit of a buzz…. 


LUXURY ESCAPE... 

HARBOUR 

HOTELS 

DRIFT AWAY 

Perfectly positioned in some of the UK's most desirable 

destinations, exciting evolving hotel brand, Harbour Hotels, launches 

a Sleep Retreat in Richmond and Harbour Beach Club in 

Salcombe this summer, adding to its already impressive collection 

of luxury hotels. British Travel Journal settles in for the night… 

Words | Emma Johnson 

IF YOU HAVE NOT YET heard of Harbour Hotels it could be that you have 

not been booking into the right hotels – or like most of us, due to the 

pandemic, any hotels at all. Yet, in all the turmoil of the past year, one silver 

lining for this impressive British business, has been their ability to re-emerge, 

with yet more exciting stylish properties and experiences to welcome back their 

enthusiastic and eager guests. Specialists in luxury, boutique retreats, with 

hotels in the heart of our finest towns, coastlines and cities, Harbour Hotels offer 

stylish stays in some of the most stunning and iconic locations, from seafronts 

to harbours, to royal parks and historic manor houses on country estates. There 

are over 15 Harbour Hotels across the UK, and a further two launching this year; 

Richmond Harbour’s new Sleep Retreat and the Harbour Beach Club, a stylish 

waterfront hotel and resort on South Sands Beach in Salcombe. 

à 


A brand staple in the Harbour Hotels 

collection are their costal properties, 

which make for the perfect summer 

retreat - we love The Brighton Harbour 

Hotel, situated in a restored Regency 

period building, right on Brighton’s iconic 

and lively seafront. 

In Cornwall, their hotel in Fowey is just 

steps from the beach with picture-perfect 

views over Fowey’s estuary; while The 

Padstow Harbour Hotel is perched above 

the charismatic fishing port, in a stunning 

Victorian mansion. 

Newly-opened this year, we’re also really 

excited about the Harbour Beach Club, 

with a laid-back feel, luxury rooms and 

spa, wide outdoor terraces and a fantastic 

beach bar, it looks set to become a key 

destination for staycationing this summer. 

Perhaps the most exciting of them all 

however, and a completely new concept 

for the hotel brand, is the forwardthinking 

magnificently restored 18th 

century Richmond Harbour Hotel & Spa, 

situated on top of Richmond Hill, home to 

the only luxury spa in Richmond and their 

newly launched break, the Sleep Retreat. 

As a hotel brand which has always put 

well-being first, the launch of Richmond 

Harbour Sleep Retreat is no surprise. 

Getting a good night’s rest can be 

Pictured 

previous 

spread: Fowey 

Harbour Hotel 

Pictured 

left-right: 

Richmond 

Harbour Hotel; 

Fowey 

Harbour Hotel 

restaurant; and 

Padstow 

Harbour Hotel 

“ 

Richmond Harbour & Spa is a haven of 

peace and tranquillity, offering a wellness 

journey like no other, providing guests 

from all over the world with an urban 

sanctuary to switch off and recharge 

” 

hard enough at the best of times, topped off with the 

pandemic to cope with too, The White Company Sleep 

Retreat Spa Break could not sound more tempting. 

Perfectly situated next to Richmond Park and just 

moments from the river, the hotel is within easy strolling 

distance of Richmond Village and the town centre with 

its many shops and restaurants. The hotel has also 

introduced a range of outdoor activities designed to 

improve guests’ physical and mental wellbeing – from 

daily guided meditation walks to running sessions, 

outdoor bootcamps and nature trails. 


Michael Warren, Managing Director of 

Harbour Hotels, says: “Richmond Harbour Hotel 

& Spa is a haven of peace and tranquillity, 

offering a wellness journey like no other, 

providing guests from all over the world 

with an urban sanctuary to switch off and 

recharge.” 

It’s a truism that things always look better 

in the morning, and that’s because sleep is so 

incredibly important for both our health and 

our happiness. We know now, more than ever, 

how vital a good night’s sleep is - not only 

for our bodies, but also our minds. When we 

sleep, while our bodies rest and rejuvenate, our 

minds also relax and our stresses melt away. 

And, as you slip between the crisp Egyptian 

cotton sheets at the Richmond Harbour Hotel & 

Spa, soothed by the scents of sleep-inducing 

candle and a soothing White Company pillow 

à 


“ 

Having had the delight of 

staying in many of the Harbour 

Hotels it has been wonderful 

to see how stylish and different 

each hotel is. 

” 

mist, you’ll know that a good night’s sleep is 

finally ahead of you. After a year of considerable 

challenges, making a commitment to improving 

your sleep is time well spent. 

Start with an enlivening early morning 

yoga class followed by a wonderful hour-long 

‘Drift Away’ massage, using a relaxing blend 

of essential oils such as patchouli, geranium, 

frankincense, myrrh, dill seed and orange. 

Later on, you can soak away any worries 

in the world-class HarSPA - a wellness oasis 

offering much-needed tranquillity and respite 

from the whirl of city life, with a sauna, steam 

room, a heated 20-metre swimming pool, 

and – our favourite – a secluded outdoor Zen 

garden furnished with Nordic-inspired sofas and 

armchairs – and bubbling Scandinavian hot tubs 

to dip in. 

After a healthy dinner of kale tagliatelle with 

goat’s cheese or a vegan burger with beetroot and 

chickpeas in The Gate restaurant, you can retire to 

your room, greeted by The White Company’s Sleep 

Collection gift box, which includes a Sleep Candle, 

Calming Bath Soak, a Nourishing Body Cream, 

a Soothing Pillow Mist and a Fluffy Eye Mask. 

Drifting off to the scents of lavender, restorative 

clary sage and soothing chamomile, and sipping 

a warm cup of herbal tea, your mind gets quiet, 

gently resting, ready for sleep. 

Quintessentially British brand, The White 

Company, has been in partnership with Harbour 

Hotels since 2013 offering their fabulous ‘Flowers’ 

toiletries range in all the hotels. 

“It’s truly the perfect partnership of two very 

British brands, and our collaboration on the Sleep 

Retreat brings together all these values of luxury 

and wellbeing in the perfect self-care package", 

explains The White Company’s Janie Martin. 

"Having had the delight of staying in many of 

the Harbour Hotels it has been wonderful to see 

how stylish and different each hotel is. 

Plus, their exceptional staff makes your stay 

even more enjoyable.” 

Pictured above: 

Bathroom 

at Salcombe 

Harbour 

Hotel & Spa; 

Bedroom 

at Brighton 

Harbour 

Hotel & Spa. 

Pictured left: 

Bathroom at 

Fowey Harbour 

Hotel featuring 

The White 

Company 

toiletries 


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10 OF THE BEST 

NATIONAL 

PARK 

EXPERIENCES 

From bushcraft to goat 

herding, kayaking to 

night-time reserve walks, 

make this a summer to 

remember with these 

fabulous new experiences 

from our National Parks 

Words | Jessica Way 

Loch Lomond 

& The Trossachs 

Cairngorms 

Northumberland 

ABRAND-NEW COLLECTION 

of curated experiences 

has launched this summer 

across England’s nine iconic 

National Parks - with more planned for 

Scotland and Wales soon. There are 

currently over 80 incredible adventures, 

being offered by passionate people who 

want to share their love of nature and 

the outdoors. If you’re a foodie, history 

buff, landscape lover or wildlife fan, 

we hope you enjoy our pick of the best 

here. To find out more and to book any 

of the experiences visit the new booking 

website: nationalparks.uk/experiences. 

Lake District 

Yorkshire Dales 

Peak District 

Snowdonia 

Pembrokeshire 

Coast 

Brecon Beacons 

Exmoor 

Dartmoor 

North York Moors 

Broads 

South Downs 

New Forest 


HIDDEN GEM 

— 

Wistman's Wood: 

This enchanting wood 

seems to belong in a 

fairy tale. Home to a 

carpet of deep green 

moss underfoot and 

finger-like branches 

of dwarf oak trees and 

corkscrew branches 

above, the fascinating 

Wistman’s Wood is one 

of only three remote, 

high-altitude oak woods 

in Dartmoor 

Dartmoor National Park 

— 

From vast wild moorlands to 

imposing rock formations and river 

valleys that cut deep through the 

landscape, Dartmoor National Park 

offers a mix of relaxing surroundings 

and active adventures. Tackle the 

hills on two wheels, amble along 

miles of walking routes or come 

face-to-face with some of the 

region’s rare wildlife 

1 

GEMS OF DARTMOOR PHOTOGRAPHY 

This photography workshop will give you the 

fundamentals of great photography. Vivid colours 

and atmospheric sunlight go hand-in-hand so that the 

moor is ablaze with an astonishing vibrancy, perfect for 

creating dramatic photographs. Visit destinations that 

are off the beaten track and learn how to frame and 

capture stunning images under the expert guidance of 

a local photographer. Learn how to use your camera or 

phone to make the most of a location and the light to 

create stunning photography. Explore the history and 

mysteries of the subjects of your photography and learn 

about the conservation of the area too. 8 hours. 

Priced from £295. 

à 


HIDDEN GEM 

— 

Long Man of Wilmington: 

Standing as the tallest 

chalk figure in the 

UK, the Long Man 

of Wilmington is an 

interesting highlight 

along the South Downs. 

With a past that is 

riddled with mystery, 

this historic site is 

surrounded by lush green 

countryside, gentle hills 

and postcard-perfect 

villages – ideal for a 

stress-busting stroll 

in southern England’s 

countryside 

South Downs National Park 

— 

Discover the world-famous white cliffs, rolling 

green hills, ancient woodland, rich wetlands 

and lowland heaths. Stretching across the south 

of England, the South Downs National Park – 

with its long distance paths, cycle routes and rare 

wildlife – is a real haven for outdoor enthusiasts 

and culture seekers. Get inspired by the dramatic 

cliffs and picturesque villages found throughout 

the National Park 

2 

BAIT TO PLATE FLY FISHING, 

SOUTH DOWNS 

Start with a two-hour fly-fishing taster experience 

at Chalk Springs Trout Fishery nestled on the 

edge of the historic market town of Arundel in 

the South Downs. Then, with fish in hand - if you 

don't catch one yourself one trout per person 

is provided - it’s over to Fins & Forks HQ for a 

hands-on session at the smokehouse kitchen. 

Prepare and cure your catch for the smoker 

choosing one of the signature cure flavourings. 

Your cold smoked trout will be posted to you after 

the session– perfect for brunch and sharing your 

story about the one that did not get away! 

Priced from £99 


Exmoor National Park 

— 

With a unique mosaic of expansive moorlands, 

woodland valleys, rolling hills and dramatic coastline, 

Exmoor National Park is a firm favourite among 

walkers. Visitors can keep an eye out for Exmoor ponies 

and red deer by day and marvel at the stars by night, as 

they explore this ancient and wild landscape 

3WILD FORAGING, 

EXMOOR 

Learn about how your ancestors survived. 

This introduction to wild foraging with botanist 

Liz Cwilewicz will help you learn how to 

confidently identify and harvest up to 15 wild 

edibles. Deliver into the history and culture of 

Exmoor National Park and discover the folklore 

and medicinal uses behind these edibles. 

2 hours, priced from £10 

HIDDEN GEM 

— 

Cow Castle: Found high 

on Exmoor, Cow Castle 

is an impressive Iron Age 

fort nestled alongside 

the soothing River Barle 

valley. But history is not 

all this hidden gem has 

to offer, for beneath the 

ancient fort is a wild 

landscape, babbling 

river and even a deep 

pool, a secluded spot for 

wild swimming. Those 

planning an adventure 

here should note that 

this site can only be 

found on foot, lying two 

miles from the small 

village of Simonsbath 


Peak District 

— 

From breathtaking views of stunning limestone valleys 

and rugged gritstone landscapes to magnificent stately 

homes, the Peak District has a contrasting range of 

natural beauty. Highlights include Edale’s Kinder 

Scout and the Castleton caves, the only place in the 

world where the semi-precious mineral Blue John 

is mined. The Peak District was also the UK’s first 

National Park, founded in 1951 

4 

MOUNTAIN HARES DISCOVERY 

WALK, PEAK DISTRICT 

The highest points in the Peak District are the 

only places in England where you can still find 

Mountain Hares. Most people will never see 

them when out walking but this guide has a 

100% success rate. The walk starts from the 

Snake Pass road, between Glossop and Sheffield. 

After a gradual climb of around 200m, you’ll 

leave the Pennine Way path navigating across 

the complex moorland terrain to some of the 

best locations to see Mountain Hares in their 

natural habitat. There’s the chance to see shorteared 

owls, golden plover, red grouse, kestrels 

and learn about the ecology and restoration 

of these amazing bog and moorland habitats. 

After observing the hares, you’ll head to the 

incredible and moving location of the site of the 

B29 Superfortress "Over Exposed" plane crash. A 

camera with a long lens or zoom and binoculars 

are worth taking but if you don’t have the gear 

don’t worry – the guide will send you a set of 

digital photos taken on the day. 

Priced from £38 per person 

HIDDEN GEM 

— 

Thor’s Cave, Wetton: Hidden away 

behind the Staffordshire village of 

Wetton in the Peak District, Thor’s 

Cave is a fascinating geological 

finale to a relaxing countryside 

walk. After strolling along a quaint 

country path, visitors will see the 

wonderful arched mouth emerge in 

the distance. Reached by a stepped 

path, the natural limestone cavern 

has an inviting entrance that leads to 

a space that’s occupation dates back 

to the Stone Age. As well as exploring 

this ancient habitation space, visitors 

will be treated to stunning views of 

the valley below to boot! 


5 

CLIMBING THROUGH HISTORY, 

PEAK DISTRICT 

Try climbing, abseiling and scrambling for the 

first time or develop existing skills with local 

experts. The history of the Peak District National 

Park is etched in the unique gritstone crags that 

line the valley edges. This world-famous rock, 

besides being an integral part of the area’s 

industrial heritage, has formed the favoured 

vertical playground for generations of climbers 

and scramblers. Follow in their footsteps by 

climbing, scrambling and abseiling under the 

expert guidance of a local instructor. Learn about 

the history and geology, flora and fauna of this 

unique area. 


à 


HIDDEN GEM 

— 

Crackpot Hall: For epic 

scenery with a side of 

local history, walk to 

the fascinating ruins of 

Crackpot Hall. Tucked 

away at the foot of rolling 

hills, Crackpot Hall is the 

ruins of an 18th century 

smallholding, abandoned 

in 1953. There are 

staggering views in 

several directions, this 

site overlooks Swinner 

Gill, where sweeping 

valleys were once home 

to a thriving lead mining 

industry, the remains of 

which can still be seen 

today. 

IMAGE © VISITBRITAIN//THOMAS HEATON 

The Yorkshire Dales National Park 

— 

Home to the Three Peaks of Pen-y-ghent, 

Whernside and Ingleborough, The Yorkshire 

Dales National Park is an area known 

for its rich farming heritage, lush heather 

moors, labyrinth of caves, rolling valleys 

embellished with traditional field barns and 

drystone walls – giving visitors a look into 

Britain’s countryside, both past and present. 

6RECONNECTING WITH NATURE, 

YORKSHIRE DALES 

Immerse yourself in the tranquil Yorkshire 

Dales landscape and enjoy a full exploration 

of fascinating and beautiful Gunnerside Gill in 

Swaledale. You’ll get a feel for how different this 

area must have been 200 years ago when it was 

bustling with people and machinery. 

Experience and understand more about how 

nature has slowly been reclaiming the landscape 

and plans for future nature recovery in the area. 

As well as enjoying a picnic with local delicacies 

and dipping your toes in the beck, the day 

includes a visit to a 200-year-old working smithy 

and a drink in the local pub. 

7 hours, priced from £35 per person 


Northumberland National Park 

— 

Ancient monuments, rolling moorland and the uplands 

of the Cheviot Hills make Northumberland National 

Park – Europe’s largest International Dark Sky Park – as 

tranquil as the stars are bright! The remote heathercovered 

hills, iconic Hadrian’s Wall World Heritage 

Site and unspoilt historic islands mean it’s a must for 

scenery-centric bucket lists. 

7PATROL HADRIAN’S WALL, 

NORTHUMBERLAND 

Venture into ‘bandit country’ where Romans 

dared to march as you patrol the northern 

frontier with a National Park Ranger. Start out 

from The Sill National Landscape Discovery 

Centre where you’ll pick up an E-mountain 

bike. You’ll cycle together along the most 

iconic section of Hadrian’s Wall including an 

off-road section along an ancient byway with 

outstanding views. As you explore quiet country 

lanes and byways you’ll be immersed in tales 

of how Hadrian’s Wall was made and enjoy a 

flavour of what life was like. 

Priced from £30. 

IMAGE © VISITBRITAIN/YIN SUN PHOTOGRAPHY 

HIDDEN GEM 

— 

Hareshaw Linn, 

Bellingham: Dream of 

walking through the 

charming woodland, 

crossing quaint bridges 

and marvelling at the 

deep green waterfall 

at Northumberland’s 

Hareshaw Linn. A 

secluded spot brimming 

with flora and fauna, 

fans of the great 

outdoors can spot rare 

ferns and lichen, as well 

as red squirrels and 

wood warblers. 

à 


‘wandermust’ 

WHICH ONE’S ON YOUR 

‘WANDERMUST’ 

LIST? 

An eclectic collection of unique properties, with personalities as distinctly individual as our guests. 

ICONICLUXURYHOTELS.COM 

THE MAYFAIR TOWNHOUSE | CHEWTON GLEN | CLIVEDEN HOUSE | THE LYGON ARMS | 11 CADOGAN GARDENS

IMAGE © VISITBRITAIN/TOMO BREJC 

The Lake District National Park 

— 

The Lake District is home to 

awe-inspiring landscapes, high fells, 

deep glacial lakes and quaint rural 

villages. Now a World Heritage Site, 

the rugged yet beautiful National 

Park has the highest mountains in 

England, the largest being Scafell 

Pike, and is one of Britain’s most 

scenic spots in any season. 

HIDDEN GEM 

— 

Ennerdale Water: Those 

longing to experience 

utter tranquillity have 

hit the jackpot, as 

Ennerdale Water is the 

National Park’s most 

remote lake. Offering a 

peaceful slice of Britain’s 

vast countryside, those 

planning on visiting 

Ennerdale can expect 

crystal-clear waters, 

wonderful forest walks 

and outstanding views 

of the surrounding 

hilly landscape. This 

Lake District secret 

is so remote that it 

cannot be reached by 

road, although active 

adventurers can hop 

on a bike and enjoy 

the 10-mile cycle path 

that connects it to 

Whitehaven. 

8NIGHT TIME ADVENTURE, 

LAKE DISTRICT 

The natural world changes at night 

as different animals emerge and new 

noises are heard. You’ll get kitted out 

with binoculars, night-vison equipment 

and bat detectors so that you can get 

a really good look at how nocturnal 

creatures make the world their own once 

the sun goes down. Finish up around 

an open fire with a bowl of something 

warm and delicious. 


à 


9 

FOSSILS, FORAGE & FEAST, 

NORTH YORK MOORS 

Join our experienced leaders to explore a hidden 

cove such as Boggle Hole or Runswick Bay on the 

North York Moors Heritage Coast. We’ll help you 

to find the secret creatures hiding in rock pools, 

to discover Jurassic fossils, forage for seashore 

snacks, and then to cook and eat some of the food 

you’ve found, which is extra tasty when cooked 

on an open beach fire! Depending on the wishes 

of the group the experience can include hunting 

for Jurassic fossils from 200 million years ago, 

including dinosaur footprints and the worldfamous 

ammonites and Whitby Jet and exploring 

the rock pools and rocky shoreline to meet the 

animals and plants that live there. Some of these 

(seaweed, shell fish, crabs and lobsters) we will 

forage to provide a beach cooked meal and 

depending on the time of year/day, it may also be 

possible to add in an evening of stargazing. 


North York Moors National Park 

— 

A place of extraordinary heritage with 

countryside to match, the North York Moors 

have rolling hills, deep wooded dales, 

captivating coasts, ancient abbeys, tumbling 

streams and timeless villages – this is a 

National Park mixing both unexpected and 

quintessential beauty. There is also a heritage 

railway system, part of the National Parks 

Experience Collection. 

HIDDEN GEM 

— 

Hayburn Wyke: Found 

along the Cleveland Way 

National Trail, hidden 

beyond deer-dwelling 

woodland, the secret 

cove of Hayburn Wyke 

offers a pebbled 

paradise, home to a 

host of shallow rock 

pools at the foot of 

dramatic cliffs. A place 

to explore from both 

above and below, those 

longing for a relaxing 

coastal walk can dream 

of strolling along the 

clifftops, discovering 

an old railway line and 

wandering through 

ancient woodlands. 


HIDDEN GEM 

— 

Winterton-On-Sea: 

Nestled between 

sweeping sandy beaches 

and the natural beauty 

of the Norfolk Broads, 

Winterton-On-Sea is 

a picturesque British 

seaside village ideal 

for those longing for a 

taste of the quiet life. 

Lighthouses, traditional 

thatched cottages and 

inviting sand dunes 

pepper the area, as well 

as a 14th century historic 

church whose tower is 

sometimes open to the 

public, for sweeping 

panoramic views of the 

lowland landscape. 

Norfolk Broads National Park 

— 

A spot known for its idyllic and 

vast waterways and some of our 

rarest wildlife. Along the 200km 

of waterways and between the 

vast reed beds, visitors will find 

majestic windmills and ancient 

monasteries. They may also spy 

the otters, swallowtail butterflies, 

kingfishers and seals that call this 

area home. 

10 

NATURE KAYAK ADVENTURE, BROADS 

This fun and serene activity will take you on a journey through 

the usually hard to reach areas of some of the Broads National 

Park. You can admire some of the best nature has to offer 

and discover Hickling Broad – one of the jewels – with highly 

experienced guides. You’ll be met at the launch point with 

your kayak and all other safety equipment needed, ready 

to be transported out onto the water for this amazing miniadventure. 

Using stable and easy to paddle sit-in style double 

or single kayaks (depending on group size) there will be every 

opportunity for you to see/hear Marsh Harrier, Bearded Tits, 

Reed Buntings and Warblers, Avocets and perhaps Bittern, 

Otter, Water Voles and more! 




SUSTAINABLE TRAVEL... 

TOP ECO 

ATTRACTIONS 

Be inspired and educated, as well as entertained, by 

visiting projects which showcase our natural world at 

the same time as working to protect it 

Words | Helen Holmes 

I 

T’S BEEN A SURREAL and difficult twelve months. Aside from everything 

else, the pandemic has demonstrated how quickly normal life can be turned 

upside down. This kind of crisis could just as easily be caused by climate 

change as by a health emergency, and the need to protect our planet’s 

environment, and with it our own human lives, feels more vital than ever. 

As life gradually heads back to something more like normality, we will, of 

course, want to get out and about again, and maybe make up for lost time in 

the process. Beautiful natural environments are particularly appealing when 

we’ve been stuck inside, and Britain has many to offer. We hopefully already 

understand that we need to tread lightly when travelling – tourism can easily 

destroy a beauty spot if we’re not careful. But we can go one step further than 

treading lightly – by visiting, and in the process supporting, places which are 

actively seeking to conserve the environment. 

We’ve talked to some of our best sustainable attractions about the important 

work they’re doing – as well as the beautiful and restorative experiences that 

visitors will find to lift their spirits this summer. 

à 


THE CENTRE FOR 

ALTERNATIVE TECHNOLOGY 

Sited in the UNESCO Dyfi Biosphere 

Reserve, on the edge of Snowdonia 

National Park, the Centre for 

Alternative Technology combines 

beautiful organic gardens and 

sustainably managed woodlands with 

experimental green buildings and 

renewable energy systems – a visit is 

both an educational and a restorative 

experience. 

“CAT is probably best known as 

a visitor centre,” says John Challen, 

Head of the Eco Centre, “but it’s much 

more than that. We run postgraduate 

degrees in a wide range of topics 

relating to sustainability; our Zero 

Carbon Britain Hub and Innovation 

Lab work with local authorities, 

businesses and community groups; 

and we have short courses and online 

events running all year round.” 

From May this year CAT will be 

running new nature experiences at 

the centre, including gardening for 

wildlife, and moth and bat nights. 

These are bookable in advance. Early 

summer is also the perfect time to 

explore gardens in bloom, the buzzing 

of nature, and the spectacular views 

that surround the centre. 

“We inspire, inform, and enable 

people to play their part in creating a 

sustainable future for all humanity,” 

explains John. “A visit to CAT can 

really give a sense of hope for the 

future – seeing ways of living that allow 

people and nature to thrive together is 

a real inspiration.” 

cat.org.uk 


IMAGES © ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS, KEW/LORNE GILL/KEITH MORRIS 

STAY NEARBY 

Eco Retreats: A few minutes from CAT, 

five luxury yurts are spread over 50 

acres. Each is set in a secluded area, 

away from other guests, and each has 

its own outdoor wood-fired bath and 

facilities for outdoor fires, as well as a 

private eco toilet and shower block. 

ecoretreats.co.uk 

Living Room Treehouses: Created by 

local artisans from local sustainable 

wood, the treehouses are built high 

in the forest canopy of an ancient 

woodland. They have solar-powered 

hot showers, as well as running water 

from purified local springs. 

living-room.co 

KEW GARDENS 

The Royal Botanical Gardens at 

Kew are a 320-acre UNESCO World 

Heritage Site, and home to the largest 

collection of living plants in the world. 

Kew’s world-renowned glasshouses 

showcase species from all over the 

globe, and are vital for Kew’s scientific 

work, protecting endangered plants. 

“Over the past year in particular, 

we have all come to understand 

the importance of nature to our 

wellbeing,” says Rachel Purdon, 

Head of Sustainability at Kew. 

“Visitors to Kew can immerse 

themselves in the beauty of their 

surroundings, and those seeking to 

learn more about plants will find a 

wealth of diversity to explore.” 

Spring is a magical time to visit the 

gardens, with a succession of spring 

bulbs at their very best – from carpets 

of crocus on the Great Lawn to 

swathes of daffodils along the Great 

Broad Walk Borders. For blossom 

fans, there are 161 cherry trees 

waiting to burst into bloom, and the 

garden is also home to magnificent 

magnolias and unique rhododendron 

hybrids. Visitors to Kew are not only 

treated to a stunning collection of 

rare and impressive plants, they’re 

also supporting vital work to protect 

the planet’s flora. “RBG Kew strives 

for a world where plants and 

fungi are understood, valued and 

protected,” says Rachel. 

kew.org 

STAY NEARBY 

Birch: Just north of London, Birch is a 

luxury hotel with an eco philosophy. 

As well as good food and a restful 

environment, it offers activities which 

range from pottery and art to baking and 

gardening. There is also a wellness space, 

and a new 25-metre lido opening in May! 

birchcommunity.com 

Heckfield Place: Heading south west out 

of London, Heckfield Place is a 50 minute 

drive from Kew. This grand Georgian 

building is set in a secluded estate 

containing woodlands and meadows. 

Food served in the restaurant comes 

from the estate’s own home farm, kitchen 

gardens and orchard, and the spa offers 

all natural treatments. 

heckfieldplace.com 


FINDHORN FOUNDATION 

Perched near the coast in the north of 

Scotland, Findhorn is an ecovillage, 

and also a centre for experiential 

workshops, conferences and events. 

“We work from the broadest sense of 

an environmental perspective,” says 

Janet Limb, who runs the foundation’s 

public relations. “The environment 

is not separate from us, the human 

species, it is an ecology of all life.” 

Visitors from all over the world 

come to Findhorn to slow down, reenergise, 

reflect and explore their own 

purpose. While residential courses 

are currently paused because of the 

pandemic, visitors can still explore the 

ecovillage – including the whisky barrel 

houses and the Universal Hall, hand 

built by community members. There 

is also a café, and two pottery shops, 

and a beautiful bay and beach a few 

minutes’ walk away. 

“At the Findhorn Foundation we 

see each person’s life journey in the 

global context of the evolution of the 

human species in relationship with the 

rest of the natural world,” explains 

Janet. “And this takes place in an 

aspiring ecovillage demonstrating a 

way of life that regenerates people 

and planet.” 

findhorn.org 

STAY NEARBY 

Lodges at the Mains: East of 

Findhorn, towards Inverness, these 

architect-designed, five star eco 

lodges are nestled in a secluded 

woodland setting. Ground source 

heating, solar panels, and cellulose 

insulation help the lodges keep their 

environmental impact to a minimum, 

while wood-fired hot tubs and 

bespoke, locally-made furniture mean 

that comfort has not been sacrificed 

in the process. 

lodgesatthemains.co.uk 

Hobbit Hideaway: In the foothills of 

Ben Rinnes, surrounded on all sides 

by stunning scenery, is the Hobbit 

Hideaway. This quirky house, built 

from wood, straw, clay and stone, 

will delight Tolkein fans, as well as 

anyone who wants to stay somewhere 

unique and sustainable in a beautiful 

environment. 

hobbithideaway.co.uk 

THE EDEN PROJECT 

Built on the site of a clay pit in Cornwall, 

the Eden Project’s bubble-like biomes 

have become an iconic symbol of 

sustainable tourism. As well as a visitor 

attraction, Eden is an educational charity 

and a social enterprise. 

Visitors to the project can immerse 

themselves in the world’s largest indoor 

rainforest – which includes four distinct 

types of rainforest environment; a canopy 

walkway offers views across the biome 

and the biodiversity platform showcases 

the range of life in the rainforest. The 

Mediterranean biome recreates the 

landscapes of the Mediterranean, South 

Africa, California and Western Australia, 

and outside the biomes there are miles 

of pathways winding through 20 acres 

of outdoor garden, planted with over 

3,000 plant varieties. The project has 

been focused on sustainability since its 

inception – using pioneering building 

techniques, harvesting water on site, 

and now experimenting with different 

methods of power generation. Eden has 

also worked with Natural England to 

propagate rare native species and reestablish 

them in Cornwall. 


to see courtship displays from resident 

and breeding birds, including the Great 

Crested Grebe, and the Goldeneye. Into 

early summer the wildflower meadows 

come into bloom and the first of the 

ducklings can be seen bobbing along 

the shoreline. “If you’re really lucky you 

might see a grebe carrying its young on 

its back, or a flash of blue as a kingfisher 

flashes past,” says Neil. The shore side 

woodlands are also home to red squirrels. 

STAY NEARBY 

Balbirnie House 

Around 20 miles east of the loch, is 

Balbirnie House. This country house 

hotel was built in 1777, and views from the 

building extend over lawns and flowering 

borders, to the 400 acre country estate 

beyond. 

balbirnie.co.uk 

Market Street Hotel 

Loch Leven is just 45 minutes from 

Edinburgh by car, and if you’d rather 

stay in town, Market Street Hotel is a 

sophisticated choice. Opened in 2019, 

the hotel was built on a derelict site in 

the city’s historic centre and sensitively 

constructed using locally sourced stone. 

marketstreethotel.co.uk 

STAY NEARBY 

The Scarlet: A 30 minute drive across 

the Lizard will take you to The Scarlet. 

A luxury eco hotel with sea views, 

meadow gardens, and clifftop hot 

tubs, The Scarlet lists the 111 ways that 

they aim for sustainability on their 

website. 

scarlethotel.co.uk 

Kudhva: Kudhva are architectural 

cabins, specifically designed for the 

location, just up the Cornish coast 

from the Scarlet. They are off-grid 

hideouts, raised high above the 

ground, with captivating views of the 

coastline. 

kudhva.com 

LOCH LEVEN 

Loch Leven is a Scottish National 

Nature Reserve, and is known 

internationally for the thousands of 

ducks and geese that come to breed 

there. “It’s an important barometer 

for environmental change,” says 

Neil Mitchell, the reserve manager. 

The loch has been monitored 

by scientists for over 60 years 

and current work there is focused 

on improving water quality, and 

improving biodiversity. 

Visitors to the loch can enjoy 

spectacular natural scenery and 

can choose how much of the 

accessible 13 mile loch circuit they 

feel able to tackle. In spring expect 

LOOKING AHEAD... 

Gateway at PEAK 

Located near Chesterfield, Gateway 

at PEAK is a new resort planned for 

visitors to the Peak District. It will provide 

accommodation for the millions of 

visitors that already head to the area 

each year. Construction is planned to 

start in 2021. 

Eden North 

The Eden Project is expanding into the 

north – and has plans to transform the 

Lancashire coastal town of Morecambe. 

There are plans for indoor and outdoor 

attractions connecting visitors with 

the internationally significant natural 

environment of Morecambe Bay. 

Scheduled to open in 2024. 


THE BEST OF... 

TALL 

SHIPS 

AND SAILING 

ADVENTURES 

From metropolitan marinas and busy ports to the 

open seas and peaceful archipelagos, sailing is the 

definition of both freedom and excitement 

Words | Lydia Paleschi 


THERE’S NO DENYING 

it’s possible to experience 

the beauty of Britain 

from the land, yet there’s 

something remarkable 

about accessing it via the water. Even 

more so whilst aboard a traditional 

sailing boat or Tall Ship. Heading 

towards the horizon, rigging overhead, 

powered by nothing but the wind adds 

a sense of excitement to any adventure. 

Fortunately, Britain’s diverse coastline 

offers a rich selection of places to 

explore. From rough seas and Celtic 

crossings to the serene waters of tidal 

creeks, here are some of our favourite 

Tall Ships and traditional sailing 

adventures to take part in this summer. 

RECHARGE ON NATURE 

For those wishing to “recharge on 

nature”, The Coastal Exploration 

Company, Norfolk have a small fleet 

of traditional fishing boats from which 

they explore the waters in and around 

Norfolk. Their three boats – a whelk 

boat, a crab boat and a mussel flat – 

berth between four and eight people 

and are available for a variety of 

excursion types. An appreciation for the 

environment and positive social change 

underpins each of the explorations on 

offer, whilst also engaging with the 

history and wildlife of the local area. 

Whether you decide to opt for a Salt 

Marsh sail through protected tidal 

creeks, embark upon a wild swimming 

and foraging expedition, book a wellness 

adventure, or enjoy an overnight sail 

sleeping in hammocks underneath the 

stars, you’re guaranteed to connect with 

nature and encounter the wilderness of 

the north Norfolk coast. 

coastalexplorationcompany.co.uk 

à 


A SLICE OF BRITISH 

PARADISE 

Explore the UK’s largest archipelago 

as part of the guest crew of a replica 

Scillonian Pilot Cutter. Working Sail’s 

hands-on, week-long sailing holidays 

to the Isles of Scilly are perfect for those 

looking to sail solo, or with friends, 

and to gain some sailing miles. After 

taking the 60-mile trip from Falmouth 

to Scilly, prepare to meander amongst 

the five inhabited islands and numerous 

uninhabited islands, whilst soaking up 

views of pristine white sandy beaches 

and azure waters. There’s a sense of 

remoteness here and a wide range of 

wildlife to be enjoyed from a selection of 

stunning anchorages. You can choose 

to participate as much or as little as you 

like in the crewing side of things, striking 

the balance between both sailing and 

relaxing. 

workingsail.co.uk 

FOR THE ADVENTURER 

Sail your way from Wales to Ireland 

on an impressive Tall Ship with Kraken 

Travel (Cardiff to Dublin). Perfect for 

those looking to spend a bit more time 

under sail and to head out to the open 

seas, this Cardiff to Dublin route includes 

six nights aboard the STS Tenacious. 

Regardless of whether you’re an 

experienced sailor or a complete 

novice, this trip provides you with the 

opportunity to get your sea legs. 

Participants can expect to join as part 

of the crew, getting full, hands-on tall 

ship sailing experience and taking part 

in activities such as watch keeping and 

going aloft. Expect to feel a sense of 

escapism as you hit the open water and 

soak up the Irish coastline, whilst getting 

to know what it’s like to enter into two of 

Britain’s vibrant capital cities by boat. 

kraken.travel 

FOR THE BEGINNER 

Based in Portland Marina, Moonfleet 

Adventure Sailing (Dorset) operates a 

1930s tall ship originally built in Holland. 

The ideal opportunity for families and 

people of all ages to ‘dip their toe in the 

water’, there are a range of daytime 

experiences on offer, ranging from two 

to six hours in length. All excursions 

offer a chance to soak up the views of 

Weymouth Bay and beyond. The longer 

excursions make their way towards the 

iconic Durdle Door for a picnic and a 

more in depth exploration of the Jurassic 

Coast, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

moonfleetsailing.com 


FOR THE WILDLIFE 

ENTHUSIAST 

Bessie Ellen (Scotland) is a vessel with a 

colourful past. One of the last remaining 

sailing cargo ketches, this historic sailing 

ship traded during a time when Tall Ships 

and rigged vessels were an everyday sight in 

Britain’s ports and harbours. Now 116 years 

old, Bessie Ellen is on the National Historic 

Ships Register as an important vessel to 

conserve. On offer are a series of voyages 

of between three and seven days around 

the British coast, with a fantastic selection 

in both Scotland and Cornwall. Our 

favourites are the Scottish wildlife tours, 

where there’s a good chance of spotting red 

deer, otters, golden eagles and red squirrels. 

Plus, whales, seals and dolphins in the 

water. Bessie Ellen adventures are known 

to be great for the independent traveller as 

much as for groups and couples. 

bessie-ellen.com 

FALMOUTH TALL SHIPS 

REGATTA 

Cornwall, 17 - 19th August 2021 

The pinnacle of Tall Ship sailing, this 

year’s annual Tall Ships Race starts in 

Falmouth, Cornwall. Over 30 Tall Ships 

from around the world are expected to 

be anchored in Falmouth for three days 

of festivities before racing to A Coruna 

in Spain. The main attraction is the 

Parade of Sail (19th August) before the 

race start, which involves the Tall Ships, 

along with hundreds of supporting 

local boats and marine craft sailing in 

company out of the harbour. Visitors 

will be able to take tripper boats into 

the Carrick Roads to view the ships up 

close whilst they are anchored and there 

will be a range of shoreside activities 

including markets and music during the 

course of their stay. 

visitcornwall.com 


IMAGE CHERHILL DOWNS © GREAT WEST WAY 


WALKING 

HOLIDAYS 

There’s nothing better than getting outdoors on a guided 

ramble of the great British countryside on foot - and with our diverse 

range of scenic routes, trails and guides, it has never been easier. 

From acres of glorious rural scenery, off-the-beaten track woodland 

walks, to coastal paths with views out to sea, Britain offers a tranquil 

escape for those dreaming of the great outdoors 

Words | Emma O'Reilly 

IT SEEMS WE’VE ALL fallen in love with walking over lockdown, but now 

that we can roam further than just in our local area it’s time to start taking 

note of our fantastic national walking routes. From the coastal charms 

of the North Coast 500 in Scotland to the idyllic countryside and quaint 

villages of the Great West Way in England, it’s time to lace up those boots 

and make time to explore somewhere new. Take advantage of your increased 

fitness levels with our selection of guided walks from across the British Isles, 

guaranteed to put a renewed spring in your step! 

à 


Love and appreciate works of art 

and beautiful things? Then you 

might enjoy the new Renoir Walk in 

Guernsey - an art trail following in 

the footsteps of the famous French 

impressionist, Pierre-Auguste Renoir 

showcasing how the island inspired 

some of the artist’s greatest works. 

GUERNSEY 

This Channel island has a dazzling coastline - from long 

glittering beaches to secret rocky coves, Napoleonic 

forts and Second World War bunkers. The new Islands 

of Guernsey Way signposted trail can lead you round it 

all, as well as the smaller sister islands of Herm, Sark, 

Alderney and Lithou. The free app helps visitors find 

their own way around, featuring a comprehensive 

walking guide with maps and audio (a hard copy 

guide will be available to buy for those who prefer old 

school!). Each route will also detail timings, gradients 

and difficulty levels, as well as those all-important 

refreshment and loo stops. Dip in and out of the walks 

as you desire or go all out and do the lot, totalling over 

50 miles (plus the odd ferry hop). Find out more about 

this and Renoir Walk from visitguernsey.com 

British Travel Journal Top Tip: Take a small rucksack 

and pack swimming cossies and towels for impromptu 

sea swims. 

THE ANTRIM COAST 

The Antrim coastline packs in blockbuster sights – 

from the Glens of Antrim to the Carrick-a-Rede bridge 

and the spectacular hexagonal basalt columns of the 

Giant’s Causeway. Exploring on foot is a good way 

to savour them properly. The new Walking the Antrim 

Way holiday from Headwater (headwater.com), with 

three days of self-guided walking, enables you to see 

them all, plus huge sandy shores, clifftops, castles and 

forest trails in between. All route maps are provided, 

as is a luggage forwarding service. Accommodation is 

in small B&Bs and the adventure finishes in Bushmills, 

where you can toast the end of your stay with a whiskey 

tasting at the famous distillery. Daily departures run 

until 3rd October. 

British Travel Journal Top Tip: Game of Thrones fans 

can visit Ballintoy Harbour, near the Carrick-a-Rede 

Bridge – it appeared as the Iron Islands when Theon 

first returns home on his ship. 

IMAGE © NICK DESPRES/NITB PHOTOGRAPHIC LIBRARY/SHUTTERSTOCK_PATRYK KOSMIDER/VISITBRITAIN/MATTCANT 


DORSET 

“I somehow feel more English for having seen those 

Dorset fields, surrounded by hedges basking in the 

sun”. So said Julian in Enid Blyton’s Five on Finniston 

Farm. The author holidayed for over 30 years in the 

Studland area, and it inspired much of her writing. 

The Carter Company (the-carter-company.com) have 

based their Enid Blyton’s Dorset walking and cycling 

tour around the places she loved. Set off on adventures 

on foot or by bike - maps and lunch (don’t forget the 

ginger beer) packed into your rucksack. Cycle trafficfree 

forest trails to Corfe Castle, thought to be the 

inspiration for Kirrin Castle, walk the Jurassic coastline 

to picture perfect Lulworth Cove and Stair Hole, which 

featured in the stories, and hop on a boat to Brownsea 

Island, aka Whispering Island. 

British Travel Journal Top Tip: If you have the 

enthusiasm but not the energy of the Famous Five, an 

electric bike is an option. 

Pictured left-right: Saints Bay, Guernsey; 

Carrick-a-Rede bridge and the Giant’s Causeway 

on the Antrim coastline; Corfe Castle and 

Durdle Door on Dorset's Jurassic Coast; hikers 

walking the England Coast-toCoast trail. 

ENGLAND COAST TO COAST 

Experienced hiker? Then the 182-mile England 

Coast-to-Coast trail could be your most exhilarating 

challenge yet. This guided trip, from newly formed 

Wilderness England (wildernessengland.com) from the 

same team as Wildnerness Scotland, starts on the coast 

at St Bees in Cumbria and finishes at Robin Hood’s 

Bay in Yorkshire. In between, you’ll walk up hill and 

down dale through no less than three National Parks 

– the Lake District, the Yorkshire Dales and the North 

York Moors. Expect eye popping scenery -and some 

fascinating lessons in everything from medieval history 

to local romantic poets like Wordsworth and Coleridge 

from your expert guide. 

You could do your research first looking online 

at England's Coast who have just launched an 

interactive map planner (englandscoast.com/en/ 

create-itinerary). Everything - food, snacks, water and 

cosy accommodation- is included on this hike, so you 

can concentrate on enjoying yourself. The trip runs on 

several dates between now and mid-September. 

British Travel Journal Top Tip: It’s good to do this 

with a guide to avoid having to map read as it’s not the 

best marked trail, although good progress is being made! 


Follow the campaign hashtag 

#WalkTasteExplore to join an English 

walking adventure as part of a new 

national campaign from sleeping 

under the stars near the Pennine 

Way to following in the footsteps of 

Romans along Hadrian’s Wall Path 

OUTER HEBRIDES 

Five hours on the ferry from Scotland’s north east coast 

carries you to the far flung Outer Hebrides. These 

islands have their own special feel, with bleached white 

beaches lapped by the wild Atlantic, a land dotted with 

mountains and moorland and a gaelic culture all their 

own. Macs Adventure's Outer Hebrides Island Hopscotch 

(macsadventure.com) is an easy breezy ‘drive and hike’ 

self-guided trip around five of the them. Short daily 

walks (maximum seven miles) leave time for feasting 

on the heavenly local seafood and for sightseeing. 

Visit an eagle observatory, a whisky distillery, the 

showstopping beach of Luskentyre and prehistoric 

ruins including the world-famous Standing Stones of 

Callanish (older than Stonehenge) and the Bosta Iron 

Age house. Even the ferry trips between the islands are 

an adventure… This trip is available now until October. 

British Travel Journal Top Tip: Treat yourself to a Harris 

Tweed jacket, woven by hand on the island of Harris. 

NORTH NORFOLK 

The new Seascapes of North Norfolk itinerary from 

Inntravel (inntravel.co.uk) uncovers this unique 

coastline. The walks are self-guided and gentle 

(maximum seven miles), with some circular routes, 

meaning that you stay in just three excellent pubs and 

hotels over the course of the six nights. When it comes 

to scenery there’s plenty of variety - vast beaches and 

dunes, marshland nature reserves, cute flint and brick 

villages and historic country estates. The flatness of 

the coastline means the skies (as well as sunrises and 

sunsets) are always huge – don’t forget your camera. 

A transfer is included from Kings Lynn station, which 

means you can leave your car at home. 

You might choose to extend your holiday by booking 

a stay with Barefoot Retreats (barefootretreats.co.uk), 

a holiday cottage rental agency with some of the finest 

luxury holiday cottages (and self-catering holiday 

homes) in North Norfolk. 

British Travel Journal Top Tip: Take binoculars 

to appreciate up close the huge variety of bird and 

wildlife enroute. 

IMAGE © GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO/SWENSTROOP/SHUTTERSTOCK/NICOLA-PULHAM 


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RETREATS 

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Don't miss the new aerial walkway 

opening at Aira Force, Cumbria 

later this summer, to experience 

its waterfall from a new dramatic 

steel platform. “This innovation will 

recreate the drama that Victorian 

thrill-seekers sought here” says 

Project Manger Charlotte Fuke. 

WALK THE LAKE DISTRICT 

The Borrowdale Valley makes a perfect base for 

exploring the beautiful Northern Lake District. On 

Explore’s (explore.co.uk) small group walking holiday 

you’ll stay at a comfortable three-star hotel and stride 

out on six days of spectacular walks. These begin with 

Cat Bells, the perfect first day fell - not too arduous, 

with just one steep but short scramble to the top. 

The reward is 360-degree views over Derwentwater 

and the surrounding fells. That should give an appetite 

for further forays, including Haystacks (favourite of 

Alfred Wainwright - author of the famous guides to the 

fells – and where his ashes were scattered). Toughest 

of the walks is a seven hour schlep up Scafell Pike, 

England’s highest peak at 978 metres. It’s no Everest 

but most walkers feel proud to have conquered it! 

The walks run from April-October. 

British Travel Journal Top Tip: Train hill walking 

muscles on that StairMaster at the gym – or your stairs 

at home will do. 

GOWER COAST PATH 

This wild part of the Welsh coastline is less well known 

than Pembrokeshire, yet its magnificent beaches are 

regularly voted amongst the best in the world. Celtic 

Trails (celtictrailswalkingholidays.co.uk) invigorating 

43-mile route can be covered in five or six days 

(depending on preference) with stays at guesthouses 

and B&Bs along the way and your luggage sent ahead 

of you. Highlights include Three Cliffs Bay, with its 

limestone cliffs and vast swathes of caramel coloured 

sand and the giant curve of Rhossili Bay, which 

includes the wreck of the Helvetia Viking ship on the 

shore. The path snakes slightly inland in places, past 

dunes and through marshland and forest. The Gower 

Coast Path itinerary is available between March and 

October. 

British Travel Journal Top Tip: Keep your eyes peeled 

for local wildlife, which could include kestrels, herons 

and seals plus all sorts of birds and butterflies. 

à 


WALKING EVENTS IN 2021 

– 

MORAY WALKING AND 

OUTDOOR FESTIVAL 

11-22 June Walks in every corner of the 

county, from Cairngorms to coastline 

moraywalkoutdoorfest.co.uk 

THE GREAT GLEN WAY 

Take a highland fling following the route of the Caledonian Canal 

from Scotland’s west coast at Fort William, to the east at Inverness 

with HF Holidays (hfholidays.co.uk). It’s not all tow paths – on this 

seven day guided walk you’ll follow forest trails and skim the shores 

of Loch Lochy, Loch Oich and Loch Ness (from where, if the group 

takes the high route, the views are sublime). You’ll see Neptune’s 

Staircase, with its eight ‘climbing’ locks, enjoy views of Ben Nevis 

and visit a floating pub. After skirting a river that feeds Loch Ness 

you’ll see Nessie herself (just kidding – but please let us know if you 

do!) Accommodation is in two hotels, both with indoor pools – great 

for easing tired muscles after a day on your feet. The Great Glen Way 

Guided Trail is from 18th-25th September. 

British Travel Journal Top Tip: This is a ‘moderate’ level trip, so 

only book if you are fit to cope with some ascents and six-seven 

hours of walking per day. 

THE COTSWOLDS 

If just a long weekend of walks is appealing, Foot Trails’ (foottrails. 

co.uk) Taste of the Cotswolds package should suit. You will be based 

in an 18th century inn, celebrated for its excellent food, and head out 

each day on a self-guided trail. The team tailor-make a trip to suit 

your interests – and you can include rest days and change distances 

if you prefer. A typical itinerary might include 7.5 to 10 miles of daily 

walks, with a mix of villages and scenery, steering away from crowded 

‘honeypot’ villages. Instead, discover quiet lanes, achingly pretty 

cottages, tinkling streams and rivers, maybe even a Roman villa. After 

a two to three hour morning walk, there’s time to enjoy a slap up pub 

lunch before another couple of hours on foot. 

British Travel Journal Top Tip: The Cotswolds is not just about the 

villages. Check out stunning Cirencester, once the second biggest 

city in Roman Britain. 

ULTRA CHALLENGE – WALK 

25, 50 or 100km to raise money for 

your chosen charity, at events all over 

England. Challenges in the next few 

months include the Peak District, 

Yorkshire, South West and Thames Path 

ultrachallenge.com/the-events/ 

WHITE CLIFFS WALKING 

FESTIVAL 

26-31 August A choice of walks of 

varying length each day over the coast 

and downs in East Sussex 

whitecliffswalkingfestival.org.uk 

TREKFEST - THE BEACONS 

18 September Choose from a 25 

or 50km walk over stunning but 

challenging terrain to raise money for 

your favourite charity 

trekfest.org.uk 

MIGHTY HIKES MACMILLAN 

Lots of walking marathons between 

now and September in locations around 

the UK. Participants pledge to raise a 

minimum £250 through sponsorship. 

mightyhikes.macmillan.org.uk 

DARTMOOR WALKING FESTIVAL 

29 August-5 September Around four 

events a day, including ranger led walks, 

archaeological visits and evening walks 

and talks. The festival will raise money 

for Devon Air Ambulance. 

moorlandguides.co.uk 


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10 OF THE BEST 

OUTDOOR 

DIPS

Whether you prefer to do your laps in five-star 

luxury, reconnect with nature in a stylish swimming 

‘pond’ or soak up the skyline from a city rooftop, 

here are our top outdoor pools for taking the 

plunge this summer 

Words | Sophie Farrah 

à

1 

THYME, 

GLOUCESTERSHIRE 

The swimming pool at Cotswolds 

haven Thyme is tucked away in 

a beautiful, honey stone walled 

garden on the hotel’s 150-acre 

estate. This secluded and serene 

heated outdoor pool is surrounded 

by nature and filled with water 

drawn from the estate’s very own 

underground spring. A unique 

bio-filtration system means that no 

chemicals are used whatsoever, so 

you can enjoy a swim in water that 

is pure enough to drink! Complete 

the all-natural experience by 

drying off in the sunshine on one of 

the stylish sunbeds that surround 

the pool or grab a botanical 

cocktail from the new poolside bar. 

thyme.co.uk 

2 

THE SCARLET, NORTH 

CORNWALL 

Whilst the outdoor pool 

at North Cornwall’s eco hotel 

The Scarlet may be on the chilly 

side, it’s worth braving it for the 

views. Fringed by granite rocks 

and greenery, this picture-perfect 

swimming spot overlooks the 

beautiful beach of Mawgan Porth. 

Cleansed by a living reed bed as 

opposed to harsh chemicals, this 

unheated natural ‘pond’ is usually 

a bracing 22°C in the summer but 

fear not - after an invigorating dip 

you can warm up in the nearby 

wood-fired hot tubs and outdoor 

cedar wood sauna, both of which 

boast more stunning sea views. 

scarlethotel.co.uk 

3 

PORTAVADIE, LOCH 

FYNE, ARGYLL 

Perched on the shores of 

a stunning sea loch, the 

extraordinary spa at Portavadie 

cost a cool £10 million, and it 

shows. Built using glass, steel, 

stone and neutral tones, this 

serene, sprawling spa experience 

boasts an indoor pool, outdoor spa 

pools and a Scandinavian sauna. 

The star of the show however is the 

81sqm heated outdoor infinity pool 

- said to be the largest in Scotland 

- with breath-taking views across 

Loch Fyne to the Isle of Arran. It’s 

kept at a comfortable 33°C, so 

whatever the Scottish weather may 

bring, you’ll feel positively balmy. 

portavadie.com 


4 

LODORE FALLS HOTEL 

& SPA, CUMBRIA 

Nestled in the beautiful Borrowdale 

valley in the heart of the Lake District, 

the luxurious spa at The Lodore Falls Hotel 

makes the most of the stunning scenery 

that surrounds it. From the cool, 

contemporary 16m outdoor hydro pool, 

complete with neck jets, underwater 

loungers and an overflow hot tub, alfresco 

swimmers can enjoy breath-taking views of 

Derwentwater and Cat Bells mountains. 

The nearby glass-fronted Finnish sauna 

boasts more wonderful views and, if you’re 

feeling brave, invigorating cold-drench 

buckets (followed by hot showers) are 

available on the open-air poolside terrace. 

lakedistricthotels.net/lodorefalls 

à 


5 

THE HEADLAND HOTEL, 

NEWQUAY, CORNWALL 

The Headland Hotel’s new and 

already award-winning £10 

million Aqua Club has wow factor 

at every turn. Enjoy the sunset 

from the outdoor spa pool or do 

a few laps in the larger, deeper 

pool that encircles it; either way, 

ingenious design makes the most 

of the spectacular views over 

Fistral Beach whilst also sheltering 

swimmers from the wind. 

Elsewhere, there’s a 

spacious outdoor vitality pool 

with a stunning Cornish granite 

menhir (standing stone) at its 

centre - a perfect place for soaking 

tired muscles after a day exploring 

the nearby coastal path. 

headlandhotel.co.uk 

6 

ST BRIDES SPA HOTEL, 

PEMBROKESHIRE 

On a clifftop overlooking the 

seaside village of Saundersfoot, 

the award-winning spa at St Brides 

boasts a heated, infinity-style 

spa pool, with sweeping views 

of the harbour and the stunning 

Pembrokeshire coastline beyond. 

With submerged loungers and a 

hydrotherapy fountain, this bijou 

pool is less for strenuous laps and 

more for relaxing, whilst taking in 

the fresh sea air and magnificent 

views. It contains natural salt 

instead of chemicals, and is heated 

to a toasty 32-34°C. 

stbridesspahotel.com 

7 

SOUTH LODGE HOTEL 

& SPA, WEST SUSSEX 

The beautiful, 18m outdoor 

swimming pool at the luxurious 

South Lodge Hotel & Spa may be 

described as ‘wild’, but the good 

news is that it’s heated. Edged 

with swaying reeds and pretty 

flowers, this undulating and ohso 

inviting wild swimming ‘pond’ 

is surrounded by stylish decking, 

parasols and comfy sunbeds to curl 

up on after your dip. Elsewhere, 

there’s a state-of-the-art spa 

to explore, and more open-air 

bathing on offer at the small but 

sleek outdoor hydrotherapy pool. 

exclusive.co.uk/south-lodge 

à 


8 

KING STREET TOWNHOUSE, 

MANCHESTER 

In the summer months, city-centre hotels 

with outdoor pools are a real treat. What 

better way to shake off the sticky urban 

heat than with a refreshing open-air dip, 

sky high? The sleek, slate-grey infinity 

spa pool at King Street Townhouse 

may be small, but it is perfectly formed. 

Located on the hotel's seventh floor, the 

pool has a glass roof but is completely 

open to the elements on one side, 

offering incredible views across the city’s 

skyline, dotted with pointy spires, and 

of the iconic clock tower of Manchester 

Town Hall. Sightseeing from a swimming 

pool? Why ever not? 

eclectichotels.co.uk 

9 

BURGH ISLAND HOTEL, 

SOUTH DEVON 

Positioned on its own private 

island, it seems only fitting that 

the completely unique Burgh 

Island Hotel would offer a suitably 

extraordinary outdoor swimming 

experience. The hotel’s Mermaid 

Pool is a breath-taking natural 

seawater bathing pool, reminiscent 

of a mythical lagoon. Secured by a 

historic sluice gate and surrounded 

by rocks for utter privacy, it’s worth 

braving the unheated water for this 

totally unique swim. Alternatively, 

there’s also a rowing boat available 

for those who would prefer to 

remain dry - just watch out for the 

mermaids… 

burghisland.com 

10 

CLIVEDEN HOUSE, 

BERKSHIRE 

Very few swimming pools can 

claim to be the origin of a worldfamous 

political scandal, but 

this one most certainly can. The 

legendary ‘Profumo pool’ at 

luxurious country retreat Cliveden 

House is where John Profumo 

first laid eyes on Christine Keeler, 

and their infamous affair began. 

Surrounded by rows of cream 

sunbeds, neat topiary and swaying 

lavender, this picturesque pool 

sits in the hotel’s elegant walled 

garden and is the last remaining 

listed outdoor pool in England. 

Admire the hotel’s stunning 

neoclassical architecture whilst 

doing a few lengths, before 

unwinding in one of the outdoor 

hot tubs. 

clivedenhouse.co.uk 


Pictured above then clockwise: Thames Lido, 

Reading; Tinside Pool, Plymouth; Bristol Lido, 

Bristol; Jubilee Pool, Penzance and swimmer 

at Bristol Lido, Bristol 

LOVELY LIDOS 

– 

Our love for lidos emerged in the 1930s when outdoor swimming first became popular 

in the UK, and now these sociable swimming spots are making a comeback. Today, 

there are more than 100 to discover, with more renovation projects in the pipeline. 

Here’s where to make a splash this summer! 

Thames Lido, Reading: After more than three years of careful restoration, this beautiful, 

historic lido re-opened its doors in 2017. Located by the river Thames in Reading, the 

water temperature at this urban retreat is heated all year round to between 24-26°C. 

Spa treatments are available on-site, as well as a stylish poolside restaurant with a 

Mediterranean menu. 

thameslido.com 

Bristol Lido, Bristol: Tucked away in the heart of Clifton, this historic lido is in fact a 

restored Victorian swimming pool and it oozes stylish serenity. It’s kept at a toasty 24°C 

and is surrounded on all sides by beautifully designed buildings that include an awardwinning 

restaurant and a poolside tapas bar, perfect for a post-swim sangria. 

lidobristol.com 

Tinside Pool, Plymouth: Built in 1935, beautiful Tinside Pool is an internationally 

acclaimed Art Deco style seaside wonder. Open only during the summer months, this 

stunning semi-circular saltwater pool is 50m in diameter and is both family friendly and 

fully accessible. Dry off on the large sunbathing terrace; the sea views are unbeatable. 

everyoneactive.com/centre/tinside-lido 

Jubilee Pool, Penzance: Another Art Deco gem is the recently restored Jubilee Pool on the 

Cornish coast. It is the country’s largest seawater lido and there are three pools to choose 

from. The popular geothermal pool is the first of its kind in the UK, where you can bathe in 

natural salt water heated to between 30-35°C by the lido’s very own geothermal well. 

jubileepool.co.uk 


Pictured: 

Laid-back 

Breakfast by 

Dine in the 

Lakes. Inset 

images: One 

Fine Dine 

chef and 

One Fine 

Dine 

gourmet 

dishes 


CHEF'S TABLE 

Chantal Borciani rounds up the best gourmet 

at-home dining options from Michelin-chef catering to 

curated menus delivered direct to your door 

HOLIDAYS ARE ALL about 

relaxing and enjoying 

your surroundings and 

now more than ever the 

world of private dining and high-end 

restaurant meals 

delivered right to 

your luxury rental 

doorstep means 

staycationers can 

take all the work 

out of mealtimes. 

Whether you want 

a top chef to come 

and cook for you 

or a traditional 

afternoon tea 

delivery, some 

of Britain’s top 

producers are on 

hand to ensure you spend less time in 

the kitchen and more time enjoying 

your vacation… 

ONE FINE DINE 

From the finest gourmet boxes you heat 

and serve at home to fully chef-catered 

private dining, One Fine Dine is the byword 

in exclusive gastronomy. 

One Fine Dine offers superseasonal 

gourmet menu boxes 

delivered to your doorstep and 

now its professionally trained 

fine-dining chefs can take all 

the work off your hands and 

cater your entire meal. The 

company has just announced 

a partnership with five-star 

UK property rental company 

Bloomsbury Estates, so 

guests at the luxury lodgings 

can enjoy bespoke dining 

packages from curated menus, fully 

catered dinner parties, luncheons or simply a 

wonderful family meal – all made to Michelin 

restaurant quality. From £65 per person. 

onefinedine.com 

à 


JACK & SCOTT’S PRIVATE 

DINING SERVICE 

The UK’s most foodie village now 

adds another string to its bow – Bray 

Cottages has teamed up with Jack 

Blumenthal (son of Heston) and 

Scott Perkins to offer delicious private 

dining experiences. Located in the 

heart of Bray-on-Thames, guests at 

the six luxurious, quintessentially 

British cottages can book the services 

of Jack and Scott to create truly 

memorable dining experiences at 

home from personalised menus to 

in-chef dining and virtual cooking 

classes. Jack Blumenthal and Scott 

Perkins are both Michelin trained 

chefs – the pair have worked across 

some of the UK’s finest restaurants 

including The Fat Duck, The Hand 

& Flowers, L’Ortolan and Petrus. 

Round off your staycation in Bray 

with a visit to one of the village’s 

famous eateries such as the The Fat 

Duck or Alain Roux’s The Waterside 

Inn, which both boast three Michelin 

stars. Alternatively, for those not 

making a pilgrimage to the pretty 

village of Bray, Jack & Scott’s private 

dining experiences are also available 

nationwide. 

jackandscott.com 

NORTHCOTE AT HOME 

Lisa Goodwin-Allen, executive chef 

of Northcote Hotel and Michelin-star 

restaurant in Lancashire’s picturesque 

Ribble Valley has introduced Northcote 

at Home Gourmet boxes – bringing 

restaurant quality dining to your home. 

Seasonally inspired and boasting 

four courses, the Gourmet Boxes 

can be delivered nationwide and are 

a fantastic foodie journey of British 

produce. For the ultimate staycation 

surprise, you can also have Northcote’s 

Michelin-star trained chefs cater for 

your private dinner party, afternoon 

tea or lunch, at your home or holiday 


Pictured leftright: 

Dish 

from One Fine 

Dine; Stein 

at Home; 

Cookaway 

Miso Tofu 

Steaks; from 

Bistrot at 

Home; and 

fresh seafood 

from 

Harbour at 

Home 

cottage, complete with waiter 

service and sommelier, should you 

wish. From £125 for two people. 

northcote.com/at-home/ 

gourmet-boxes 

AFTERNOON TEA TO GO 

Elite Hotels is offering a luxurious 

Takeaway Afternoon Tea at two 

of its south of England properties; 

Luton Hoo Hotel, Golf & Spa in 

Bedfordshire and Ashdown Park 

Hotel and Country Club. An ideal 

holiday treat or tasty celebration 

for a birthday or anniversary, the 

exquisite afternoon-tea boxes 

include freshly made sandwiches, 

fluffy scones with clotted cream 

and strawberry preserve, and 

beautiful handmade patisserie 

such as matcha opera cake and 

hazelnut praline cream éclair, 

complemented by fine teas. From 

£25 for two people. 

elitehotels.co.uk 

STEIN'S AT HOME & BEACH 

RETREATS 

During the past year, Rick Stein 

has been ever-successful in 

providing a taste of his coastal 

menus through his Stein’s At Home 

Boxes – available nationwide. Now 

Stein’s At Home has partnered with 

Luxury Cottages, the staycation 

specialist offering 80 stunning 

destinations around the UK, 

enabling guests to pre-order a 

Stein’s At Home delivery box at a 

discounted rate. Luxury Cottage’s 

Guest Services team is also on 

hand to book and arrange delivery, 

so you can simply arrive and enjoy! 

Feast on a weekend breakfast box, 

fresh fish box, Stein’s at Home 

lobster or the ultimate foodie 

weekend box. From £35 for two. 

rickstein.com/steins-at-home 

à 


BIRTELLI’S 

Independent pizzeria, Birtelli's, has 

teamed up with holiday rental company, 

Crabtree & Crabtree, to offer its artisan 

make-your-own-pizza kits – a fun twist 

on pizza night for your holiday. The 

kits comprise ingredients sourced by 

Michelin Star Executive Chef Paul Foster 

and provide the perfect night-in meal 

with no hassle. The partnership is part of 

Crabtree & Crabtree's newly launched 

Doorstep Delivery service, which gives 

guests staying at their picturesque 

abodes discounts with home-dining 

specialists such at Birtelli’s artisan 

pizza, Pasta Evangelists pasta kits and 

Aubrey’s craft butchery. Crabtree & 

Crabtree also have a team of chefs who 

can cater for private dining at any of 

their beautiful settings. From £16.99. 

birtellis.co.uk/pizza-kits 

COOKAWAY 

Dine like kings on menus dreamt up 

by MasterChef finalists and longstanding 

chefs with flavour-packed 

recipe boxes from The Cookaway. 

The team has partnered with luxury 

villa company Oliver's Travels 

enabling guests to pre-order a recipe 

box for their UK and Irish holidays. 

Choose from recipe boxes created 

by former MasterChef finalist Sara 

Danesin, Kyoto-born chef and 

cookbook author Reiko Hashimoto, 

The Cookaway founder Nidhi Verma 

and former MasterChef finalist Jack 

Lucas to name but a few. Options 

available from just £16 for 2 people. 

thecookaway.com 

HARBOUR AT HOME 

Overlooking the mesmeric sands of 

Elie Beach in the picturesque East Neuk 

of Fife in Scotland Harbour at Home 

offers boat-fresh lobster, langoustine, 

crab and more to diners around the 

British Isles. Chef patron, Amy Elles, 

has created a series of luxury Scottish 

seafood and fish hampers with produce 

from small boats landing at Pittenweem 


Pictured 

above-right: 

Garden 

Gathering 

from Dine in 

the Lakes; 

One Fine 

Dine; and 

dishes from 

Bistrot 

at Home 

harbour, organic heritage breed beef from 

Butchery at Bowhouse and salads from East 

Neuk Market Garden. The hampers contain 

personal touches such as Elie stones from 

the beach for breaking open your lobster, 

bibs, Harbour Café placemats and gorgeous 

illustrations from artisan designer, Edinburgh 

Letters. Boxes from £25. 

theharbourcafe.co.uk 

BISTROT AT HOME 

The 25-year-old independent French 

restaurant group Bistrot Pierre is adding 

three new boxes to its range of high-end 

at-home dining boxes. Ideal for those 

staying out of town the new boxes include 

the Celebration, Steak and Breakfast boxes. 

From £35. 

bistrotathome.co.uk 

44 FOODS 

Launched at the start of the pandemic, 

with national delivery, 44 Foods offers all 

the quality and freshness of a farm shop 

direct to your door. From producer to plate, 

44 Foods is a collective of farmers and 

food producers who are passionate about 

ethically produced, fairly priced, sustainable 

food. Together, they supply fruit and veg, 

meat and dairy, and larder essentials to your 

home or holiday cottage – they are also the 

company behind the Ultimate Staycation 

Breakfast featured in our Travel News page 

13. Meals for two from £20.50. 

44foods.com 

DINE IN THE LAKES 

If you’re travelling to the incredible hills, 

valleys and waterways of the Lake District, it’s 

imperative to sample the region’s incredible 

dining. Dine in the Lakes is a new gourmet 

food delivery service providing luxury food 

boxes from crème de la crème of Lake District 

producers, delivered direct to your door. The 

gourmet purveyor has teamed up with luxury 

holiday home company Lakeland Retreats 

meaning guests can have a breakfast, brunch 

or a garden picnic package awaiting their 

arrival. Prices from £35. 

dineinthelakes.co.uk 


48 HOURS STAYING AT... 

CARY 

ARMS 

HOTEL & SPA 

With rugged sandstone cliffs and azure-blue waters, 

the coastal scenery surrounding Cary Arms is beautiful 

enough to rival towns in the Mediterranean. Jessica Way 

spends 48 unforgettable hours with her family staying in 

luxury and exploring Babbacombe... 

Words | Jessica Way 

UNSPOILT VILLAGES, RUGGED MOORLAND and golden beaches - 

there are many reasons to visit South Devon, though sitting proudly in 

the beautiful Babbacombe Bay, there’s an award winning “Inn on the 

Beach” - making the destination yet more inviting, irresistible perhaps. 

Few hotels on our British coastline have a setting as spectacular as Cary 

Arms & Spa, and from stepping foot inside, the views, character and 

warmth induce an alluring sense of tranquillity. 

Built in the late 1800s, the Torquay inn is steeped in history and has hosted Admiral Lord 

Nelson, King Edward VII and Sir Winston Churchill. There are coastal-chic memorabilia 

lining the walls of the cosy alcoves and hidden corners with some intriguing finds – one of 

which is an original hand-written thank you letter from Winston's secretary in the 1940’s to 

the then owners, Mr and Mrs Cox, expressing how they “thoroughly enjoyed their Cary Arms 

Babbacombe Bay lobsters over dinner with Pol Roger champagne”. 

à 


Pictured left-right: Cary Arms Hotel & Spa; Beach 

Huts at Cary Arms; Cove Cottage cosy sitting room 

and stylish kitchen; views from Babbacombe Bay; 

Jessica looking out over Anstey’s Cove 

With 10 elegant sea-facing rooms and suites at the inn, 

seven restored cottages, each with their own private gardens 

and outdoor space, and eight brilliantly quirky deluxe beach 

huts and beach suites, it is perfect for families – and easy to 

socially-distance too. We stayed in Cove Cottage, a charming 

characterful property with more than enough space for the four of 

us (my husband and two daughters), and wonderful terraces from 

which to admire the breath-taking sea views. 

There was a fusion of romantic Tudor in the architecture with 

décor combining traditional seaside with a Mediterranean twist. 

Modern luxuries were found throughout with the homeliest of 

colourful coastal kitchens, complete with red Aga, blue tongue 

and grove, and a green statement leather armchair. Think The 

White Company toiletries, patchwork quilts, stylish cushions, 

Persian rugs and logs piled up high by the open fire. From the 

kitchen a back door lead straight out onto the barbeque patio 

area (large enough to have invited the neighbours!) leading 

down to the beautifully landscaped lawn with rows of inviting sun 

loungers. 

Cary Arms was named after The Cary family, who have been a 

part of Torquay’s history since 1662 when Sir George Cary moved 

into Torre Abbey. Today a museum and well worth a visit, the 

monument itself dates back to 1196 and is set within 18 acres of 

garden and parkland. The Cary family owned much of the land at 

Cockington, St Marychurch and Babbacombe. 

The hotel is privately owned and managed by multi-millionaire 

entrepreneur Peter de Savary, or PdeS (as he is known) and wife 

Lana, the inspiration behind some of the finest clubs and resorts 

around the world including the St James’ Clubs, The Carnegie 

Club at Skibo Castle in Scotland, and Bovey Castle in Dartmoor 

National Park. 

Acquired in 2006, they re-opened the popular seaside inn 

following a no-expenses-spared renovation in 2010 launching as 

a luxurious boutique retreat, with bedrooms, food and activities 

to rival any of the finest hotels in the country. Babbacombe Bay 

has always been one of Torbay’s quietest and least spoilt beaches, 

and as a guest at the hotel gazing at idyllic views, from sunrise to 

sunset, is a wonderful way to spend a few days. 


“ 

It opens up onto a grassy 

path between bushes of gorse, 

blackthorn and bramble leading 

onto the Downs, with a vast open 

space and plenty of benches from 

which to enjoy the scenery. 

” 

DAY ONE 

With the South West Coast Path just yards away from Cary Arms 

and Cove Cottage doorstep it felt natural to begin the day with a 

coastal walk. So, following a hearty breakfast we decided to take 

the 1.5 mile coastal route to Kents Cavern, passing Long Quarry 

Point and Anstey’s Cove. Self-guided exploration is at its best 

when you have the handy yellow arrows to follow, and although 

there were quite a few steps along the windy path, the incredible 

views more than rewarded you for your effort. 

The woodland areas were stunning, lined with shade-loving 

plants from butterbur plants with horseshoe-shaped leaves to 

harts tongue ferns. Then it opens up onto a grassy path between 

bushes of gorse, blackthorn and bramble leading onto the Downs, 

with a vast open space and plenty of benches from which to enjoy 

the scenery. You can look down on the beautiful bays from here 

and there is access to Redgate Beach which we may have visited 

for a swim if the weather had have been better. There is also an 

interesting pavilion which proved useful to us during a sudden rain 

shower! 

At the far end of the Downs, the path disappears into the trees 

again and from this small path you can see down into Anstey’s 

Cove, one of Agatha Christie’s favourite haunts. Also, on the left 

of the path, you may be interested in a partially-hollow ash tree 

– a natural work of art. It is not long before you see signs to Kents 

Cavern, where you can enjoy a pre-historic experience on a tour 

into the limestone cave – as Britain’s “oldest home”. This popular 

attraction is also one of the key sites to justify the English Riviera 

(the name given to the nine-mile stretch of coast between Torquay 

and Brixham) UNESCO Global Geopark status, one of only 7 in 

the entire UK. Exploring the extensive labyrinth of caverns and 

spectacular natural formations is fascinating - the most significant 

artefact is a 38,000 year old human jawbone; Europe’s oldest 

human fossil. I would take a warm jacket as it can be quite chilly 

down in the caves - the coffee and cake was welcomed afterwards 

(hot meals also available). 

From Kents Cavern we took a slight detour, joining the coastal 

path a little further along at the brilliantly named, Brandy Cove, 

from which I’m sure there will have been a few smugglers’ tales! 

You can see Hope’s Nose from here, an odd-shaped piece of land 

looking out over the sea in all directions. Back towards Cary Arms, 

another interesting peninsular, Long Quarry Point with its horns 

of different sizes looks like the nose of a rhino! 

The path tucks close in under a limestone cliff, passing Anstey’s 

Cove. Make your way down the steep hill for the fabulous beach 

à 


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THE WHITE COMPANY 

STYLE 

EDITS 

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Timeless style 

Get the look in these fleeceback turn-up 

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Must haves 

Jewellery Travel Case, 

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Trainers, £115. 


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Slip into these effortlessly stylish Havaianas Flip Flops, £24, wrap up in the Morella 

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“ 

All the senses are engaged by 

smooth and enchanting notes of 

frangipani blossom, the sound of 

the surf, and the gentle rocking of 

the body in time with the waves, the 

ultimate feeling of relaxation and 

total escape. 

” 

café selling paninis, baked potatoes, sandwiches and burgers. 

Once back at Cary Arms we enjoyed a delicious alfresco lunch 

of Lyme Bay lobster and line caught seafood on the sun garden 

terraces, while watching the kayakers and scuba-divers enjoying 

themselves in the blue waters below. The sun came out and 

amidst the glorious scenery I couldn’t agree more in that moment 

as one of the friendly waiters described it as surely one of the most 

romantic spots in the British Isles. Inside, big windows show off 

views across the bay. Portland Bill, fifty miles away, is visible on 

clear days. 

By the late-afternoon I was ready for some more seaside 

therapy at the hotel spa. This came in the form of pouches of 

hot sand during an incredible Polynesian-inspired massage. 

All the senses are engaged by smooth and enchanting notes 

of frangipani blossom, the sound of the surf, and the gentle 

rocking of the body in time with the waves, the ultimate feeling 

of relaxation and total escape. The waterfall hydrotherapy pool 

is equally as impressive, with an innovative floor-ceiling glazing 

framing the views out to the ocean. The spa also has a sunbathing 

terrace decorated with exclusive American Art illustrations from 

Peter de Savary’s own private collection. 

Once refreshed back at the cottage it was time to head 

out for dinner – the best of both worlds. It is just a short stroll 

to the charmingly restored historic inn, still brimming with 

the charm and character from when it was built in the 1880s. 

Beamed ceilings, original stone walls, planked floors, books and 

boardgames. A crackling log fire for cooler evenings - the informal 

mood is achieved with effortless style. 

For those who enjoy a proper pint, Otter Ale and Bays are 

just two of the highlights, and there is an impressive selection on 

the wine list, with a few local gems to include; Devon’s Harpham 

Pinot Noir & Précoce, Hampshire’s Nyetimber, Devon’s Sandford 

Orchards Ice Cider, as well as Plymouth and Salcombe gin. I 

opted for their Cary Arms signature cocktail - a blend of Crème de 

Violette, Malibu, coconut water, lime juice and almond garnished 

with a Viola flower. 

In addition to the fabulous local food, liquid refreshments 

and warm atmosphere, an evening meal at Cary Arms is made 

even more special by the quirky alcoves providing the perfect 

cubbyholes for private dining – with views. 


There’s the Captains Table, seating six, the Pod, seating four, 

or the Wheel House, where we sat, with panoramic sea views 

enclosed by original stone walls. 

Head Chef is Steve Poyner, a Devon local, born in Torquay, 

he joined the kitchen of Cary Arms following the reopening after 

Peter and Lana de Savary’s extensive refurbishment in 2009. In 

2010 he went to work at de Savary’s Oxfordshire hotel, The Old 

Swan and Minster Mill, where his skill and enthusiasm to learn 

led to his promotion to Chef de Partie after only eight months. 

Four years later and with much ignited passion and experience 

under his belt, Steve chose to return to his roots back at the Cary 

Arms & Spa as Sous Chef. Since 2014 he’s been working with a 

talented and close-knit kitchen team and has been instrumental 

in the philosophy and success of the restaurant – from their use of 

the finest local ingredients to their AA rosette. At only 30 he’s an 

inspiring young talent. 

With such a fantastic range of Devon fish, seafood and farm 

produce, Steve and his team do not need to look far to find 

great ingredients. From perfectly hung steaks to the freshest 

local shellfish, their menu changes frequently according to what 

ingredients are available locally and in season. For me, the 'catch 

of the day' was the obvious choice, caught from Brixham less than 

12 miles away – this is a Devon, sea-to-fork dining experience at 

its finest. They describe their dining as simply ‘gastro food cooked 

simply’ but it feels more special than that to me. However, the 

unpretentious friendly approach to their fantastic service is hugely 

welcomed and relaxing, especially when making the most of time 

together as a family. It was the perfect ending to a wonderful day. 

DAY TWO 

Following a fabulous night's sleep (must be all that fresh coastal 

sea-air) and another leisurely breakfast we decided we wanted 

to explore Babbacombe a little more before heading home. From 

the jetty in front of Cary Arms it is easy to spot the Babbacombe 

Cliff Railway adjoined to the red sandstone cliff – on the shore 

of Oddicombe Beach, and so we could see our first stop and the 

route we needed to take. In the opposite direction of the morning 

before we headed off, picnic in hand, for our second adventure. 

Taking the wooden catwalk to the path under the limestone cliff 

there becomes a choice to follow the coast path to Babbacombe 

(signposted off to the left), or to continue along the beach route 

(signposted right to Petit Tor). We wanted to experience the Cliff 

Railway and decided the best route would be to take it up and 

walk down rather than the other way round – so continued until we 

reached Oddicombe Beach. From this path there are fine views on a 

clear day across to Sidmouth and even as far as Portland Bill. 

A waterfall cascades down the cliff on our left and huge 

Pictured opposite page: The glass faceted sea-facing 

spa; the Captains Table; and alfresco dining, all at Cary 

Arms Hotel & Spa. Pictured below: The Babbacombe 

Cliff Railway 

boulders keep us dry as the gentle waves brake to our right. 

The Babbacombe Cliff Railway line runs every day, with a 

closure period in winter for maintenance. Dating back to 1926, 

it has shuttled holiday makers to and from Oddicombe Beach 

for over 90 years! 2 parallel tracks, each over 700 feet long, take 

you on a carriage ride tour up (or down) the cliff – and there is 

an informative Visitor Centre on the beach. There is also the 

highly recommended Three Degrees West café, bar and bistro, 

perfect for coffee, cakes or a spot of tapas. At the top station 

there are fine views over Lyme Bay and it is only a short walk to 

Babbacombe Model Village – another must visit on our list, and 

one of Torquay’s most famous attractions. 

This miniature world is quite a spectacle! You can get lost in 

admiring the details and impressive creativity at every twist and 

turn. As seen on BBC’s comedy drama 'Don't Forget the Driver', 

and the ‘One Show’, there are 4 acres of award-winning gardens 

showcasing hundreds of model scenes, vehicles & people. This 

is an evolving attraction too, Mike Rhodes, General Manager, 

who has worked previously at Walt Disney World, has in the 

last few years started using 3D printing to create some of the 

smaller figures and details such as lampposts. We visited during 

the day – but during the summer you can also visit in the evening 

and experience the creation of illuminations – with every car, 

van, lorry, street lamp and model being carefully wired to create 

authentic lighting as you would see in any real street scene. 

The walk back to Cary Arms took us on a bracing route 

à 


Pictured left-right: Babbacombe 

Model Village, Cary Arms Hotel & 

Spa and fun on the rocks. 

“ 

This miniature world is quite 

a spectacle! You can get lost in 

admiring the details and impressive 

creativity at every twist and turn. 

” 

along Babbacombe Downs - the highest cliff top promenade 

in England. From here you can not only take in the spectacular 

coastline, but also spot seabirds, seals and even dolphins. 

For adrenaline junkies there is plenty to challenge you with 

coasteering, sailing, scuba diving and hiking. 

If you are a keen sailor, Babbacombe makes a convenient 

departure point for a Lyme Bay crossing: to Portland Bill, from 

Devon Riviera to Jurassic Coast. 

The charming and characterful village of Babbacombe is 

quite enchanting with its colourful promenade and picturesque 

buildings. There are also plenty of independent shops, 

boutiques, bars, restaurants and cosy tearooms. We passed 

Babbacombe Theatre - host to many fantastic performances 

throughout the year, one of the most successful theatres of 

its size in the country. We followed the woodland path back 

down to Cary Arms as it was sadly time to go home. My only 

regret was not staying longer, with so many more coastal and 

woodland walks on our doorstep, and such a treasure trove of 

hidden coves and tranquil settings, we could have easily stayed 

for a week discovering something new every day. From Cary 

Arms you could even walk all the way along the South West 

Coast Path to Torquay – and Torbay, at the very heart of the 

English Riviera. Just one reason of many to plan a return! 

Stay at Cove Cottage mid-season to higher season from 

£450-£650 per night, caryarms.co.uk 


TRAVEL BY TRAIN 

THIS SUMMER 

Whether it’s National Parks, coastal retreats or city escapes, 

book now at GWR.com, on our app, or at a station.

HEALTH 

BREAKS 

Relax, get fit, reboot body and mind and be 

pampered…all is possible, and at a social 

distance, on these revitalising, life-affirming 

breaks around the British Isles 

Words | Emma O'Reilly 

FIND YOUR BEST 

BODY IN KENT 

Peace, privacy, luxury… The Fold is a beautiful 

new shepherds hut in the Weald of Kent. Actually, 

it’s two shepherds huts, joined in the middle. This 

means room for a full spec kitchen, shower room 

and loo, a king-sized bed, sofa and swanky copper 

bath plus a wood burner and back up heating for 

year-round cosiness. 

The Fold sits in its own field, where your only 

company will be the birds (including the resident 

barn owl), the bees and the butterflies. While 

you’re here, have a full body check! Co-owner 

John is an ex Harley Street ‘super coach’ and 

corrective exercise specialist and offers everything 

from Fit2Go Body Screening programmes, which 

identify body areas that could be prone to injury, 

right up to detailed assessments for those with 

existing back and joint injuries. 

With each you will receive targeted training 

programmes to take home. Pilates in the onsite 

studio and Nordic Walking lessons in the 

surrounding countryside are also possible. 

Prices from £130 per night, room only, although chefcooked 

meals can be delivered at extra charge. ◆ 

airbnb.com/h/shepherds-hut-kent 


FEEL TWICE AS NICE 

IN NORTH YORKSHIRE 

Yoga and climbing may not, at first glance, 

have very much in common. Yet both are about 

connections, with ourselves and our universe, 

and each requires a discipline of both body and 

mind. On two-night Yoga and Climbing breaks 

in North Yorkshire, the days are a combination 

of energising and relaxing yoga plus climbing 

instruction at a chosen crag (depending on 

ability) in the North York Moors. Then it’s back 

to Yoga & Spice’s base near Whitby for relaxed 

evenings with vegan and vegetarian dinners 

followed by satisfying slumbers in comfortable 

ensuite cabins. These breaks work really well for 

a family or group of friends (4-6 people) wanting 

a fun activity break away together. No climbing 

experience is needed but you do need to be 

reasonably fit to take part. Prices from £450 per 

person in a shared room or £575 in a single room, 

to include yoga, two days climbing, meals and 

two/three nights accommodation. ◆ 

yogandspice.com/stay/ 

DIVE RIGHT IN 

THE NORTHERN ISLES 

OF SCOTLAND 

We might not think of the UK as a Scuba diving 

destination but it can actually be a great place 

to start discovering our underwater world. You 

can do a full PADI diving course but why not dip a 

toe in the water, so to speak, and learn the basics 

on a PADI Discover Scuba Diving (sometimes 

called Try Dive) course. That way, you can find 

out if you like it before splashing out on a more 

expensive diving holiday abroad. The courses 

take place in more than 200 centres around the 

UK, often in swimming pools but sometimes in 

the sea, too, and can be completed in just one 

day. For example, you could stay at Cantick Head 

Lighthouse Cottage (sleeps four) which has an 

incredible location on the edge of a cliff in the 

Orkney Islands, and then do a Try Dive at Scapa 

Flow, famous for its shipwrecks. 

Dive prices vary. Guided shore diving in Orkney 

costs £170 per person, and prices at Cantick Head 

Lighthouse Cottage start from £120 per night. ◆ 

krakendiving.co.uk; padi.com; 

hostunusual.com 

à 


IMAGE © JOEL MCDERMOTT 

HEALING WITH HORSES 

IN EXMOOR 

Well we’ve heard of horse whispering. But do we ever stop 

to think about the positive effect that horses could have on 

us? At Heale Farm, owners Judith and Dean run two-day 

(one-night) Heale Horses & Nature Retreats, designed to 

help those with too much stress, anxiety or trauma in their 

lives. Guests are invited to go out walking and talking in the 

Exmoor wilderness with Judith and her two gentle horses, 

Shalindra and Roger. Judith is an NLP (Neuro Linguistic 

Programming) Master Practitioner and uses this method of 

coaching, alongside the soothing power of the horses and 

surrounding nature, to help people think in more useful and 

positive ways. As well as two sessions with the horses, the 

retreat includes two breathing and mindfulness sessions 

and meals in Judith and Dean’s farmhouse kitchen. 

Guests stay in one of three beautiful cottages on site. 

Prices from £250 per person, all-inclusive. ◆ 

healefarm.co.uk 

MAKING WAVES IN 

THE ISLE OF MAN 

Whilst the TT may be one of the most wellknown 

events in the Isle of Man calendar, their 

shores are also home to a range of activities 

to get your blood pumping. Feel elated as you 

whiz down the zip-lines after navigating one of 

the highest rope course in the UK at Ape Mann 

Adventure Park, or, for an experience you will 

never forget, try coasteering with Adventurous 

Experiences in Peel. Find your inner child 

wanderlust as you explore caves, scramble 

over boulders and take courageous leaps off 

the rocks, with the backdrop of Peel Castle. 

Treat yourself afterwards to a locally-made 

Davisons ice cream as you stroll through the 

pretty seaside town. The Isle of Man, with its 

unspoilt coastline, hidden coves and craggy 

cliffs is perfect for water sports, but how ever 

you choose to spend your time on this stunning 

Manx island there’s never a dull moment! 

Coasteering is priced £45 per person. ◆ 

adventurousexperiences.com / 

visitisleofman.com 


RELAX, RESET, REWILD… 

IN CORNWALL 

That’s the motto of Thera-Sea, who run breaks in Cornwall, on 

the banks of the River Fal. The first clue that this is a get-awayfrom-it-all 

type of holiday comes when you arrive – access 

is only via hiking or boating. An old woodsman’s cottage is 

on the banks of the River Fal and surrounded by woodland – 

guests stays in the cottage or other buildings dotted around, 

like The Treehouse and The Potting Shed. The goal during 

your two-night stay is to inspire you to achieve goals and 

manage stress. Founder Katy Griffin trained as a mental 

health nurse and runs inspiring self-development workshops 

alongside off-grid activities. There’s wild swimming and torch 

lit boat trips along the river plus star gazing and huddling 

around the fire pit to chat and watch the chef prepare dinner. 

Plenty of time is given also to just lie round in a hammock. 

The course is available on selected dates from now until November. 


thera-sea.co.uk 

à 


REST AND DIGEST IN 

WORCESTERSHIRE 

Ancient Ayurvedic texts claim that many illnesses, 

both physical and mental, stem from poor 

digestion. Modern science is catching up, with a 

growing realisation that we really are what we 

eat. The five-night Healthy Gut Retreat, at The 

Clover Mill in Worcestershire, aims to help guests 

re-set their biome with a combination of pre- and 

pro-biotic food and drinks, yoga and yoga-nidra, 

meditation, massage and talks. Guests stay in 

beautiful, peaceful eco lodges overlooking a lake, 

which helps to complete the unwinding process. 

Goody bags are dished out before leaving and, 

guess what?, they’re not full of chocolate, but 

instead are crammed with healthy recipes, spice 

mixes, fermentation starters, massage oil, a 

personalised yoga practice and more , so that you 

can keep up the good work when you get home. 

The next retreats are from July 15-20, September 

16-21 and October 21-26. Prices from £1975 per 

person, all inclusive. ◆ 

theclovermill.com/microbiome 


SOOTHE YOUR SOUL IN 

THE WYE VALLEY 

The Tudor Farmhouse, in the heart of both the 

Forest of Dean and the Wye Valley is a great 

place to immerse yourself in nature. The hotel’s 

Soul Soother breaks take things a step further 

as they include forest bathing experience (or 

Shinrin-yoku in Japanese) with expert Carina 

Greenwood. So…for those who don’t know, 

it doesn’t mean having an actual bath in the 

forest. It isn’t just about taking a walk in the 

forest either. It’s about learning to fully immerse 

yourself in the woodland environment, being 

mindful and opening up all your senses. Exercises 

might include time spent concentrating only on 

movement, colour or smell for example, or really 

studying a tree up close. The experience finishes 

with a foraged tea ceremony. All those who book 

this package will also receive a gratitude journal 

plus a sleep spray. In-room massages or a visit to 

local floatation centre Float in the Forest can also 

be arranged. Prices from £298 per person including 

two nights half board, a forest bathing session, a 

Bramley Sleep Spray and a Gratitude Journal. ◆ 

tudorfarmhousehotel.co.uk 

ONE NIGHT REFRESHER 

IN PEMBROKESHIRE 

Just a one-night break away from home can be 

surprisingly invigorating. Sea Kayaking, Foraging 

and Wild Camping along the Pembrokeshire 

Coast with Much Better Adventures achieves 

it even better than most. Day one blows away 

the cobwebs straightaway, pootling in a 

kayak around wooded estuaries and secluded 

bays. Explore sea caves, spot seals and fish 

for mackerel, which you’ll cook later over the 

campfire for dinner. The expert guides teach 

you some bush craft skills and help you forage 

for more edible goodies. Slumber comes in the 

form of sleeping and Bivvy bags beneath the 

stars on a secluded beach, only accessible by 

boat. Next morning after breakfast, there’s more 

kayaking and your guides can teach you the art 

of body surfing. This trip runs between May and 

September and is for up to eight people, so ideal 

with a group of family or friends. 


muchbetteradventures.com 



WALKING TOUR OF... 

CHESTER 

CITY WALLS 

Now that we are able to wander 

around Britain's towns again, 

visiting historic sites and stopping 

somewhere picturesque for a 

relaxing lunch, the walled city of 

Chester is at the top of our list 

DISTANCE 

— 

This two mile 

walk takes 

about 45 

minutes but 

will of course 

take longer if 

you stop to take 

photographs or 

divert to explore 

all the curious 

and historic 

sights visible 

from the walls. 

ONCE UPON A 

MEDIEVAL time every 

British city needed walls. 

Most demolished them 

in less turbulent times, 

to ease expansion in the eighteenth and 

nineteenth centuries but a few cities 

were far-sighted enough – or simply 

Words | Adrian Mourby not wealthy enough – and deferred 

demolition until it happened that walls 

suddenly became fashionable again. 

Nowadays we no longer need them to 

keep out marauders or exclude rebellious 

Pictured: armies but walls do keep a town centre 

King Charles compact and they do make for a great 

Tower found in 

tourist attraction as well. 

the North East 

corner of 

Nowhere in Britain have city walls 

Chester's City been so well preserved as at Chester, a 

Walls walk small half-timbered, sandstone city on 

the River Dee that was a major west coast 

port in Roman times. The port silted up 

in the middle ages and is now a famous 

racecourse beautifully laid out below the 

Chester city walls. Today almost every attraction 

that Chester has to offer the visitor can be 

viewed from the two mile circuit of these 

walls. 

à 


“ 

Nowadays we no longer need city walls to keep out marauders or 

exclude rebellious armies but they do keep a town centre compact 

and they do make for a great tourist attraction as well 

” 

Pictured left: Bridge 

Street, which along 

with Northgate 

Street, Watergate 

Street and Eastgate 

Street, is one of the 

four original streets 

built inside Roman 

Chester. Below: 

Installed in 1899, 

the Eastgate Clock 

is positioned on the 

bridge over Eastgate 

Street. 

Start your visit by taking the steps 

on Pepper Street up to the walls 

and turning left. Peppergate was 

the scene of a famous elopement in 

Tudor times. The furious alderman 

whose daughter had slipped through 

the gate to run away with her lover 

ordered that it must henceforth be 

kept locked after sunset, which gave 

rise to a local saying that mocks any 

precaution taken too late. “When the 

daughter is stolen, shut the Pepper 

Gate. 

The city walls are as wide as a 

modern British pavement and they 

pass over all of Chester’s gates. 

Three hundred yards east along the 

parapet we encounter East Gate 

over the old Decumanus Maximus, 

the main Roman road through 

the city. Originally it continued 

on as far as Mamucium (modern 

day Manchester). Here there is a 

splendidly ornate painted Victorian 

clock over the gate under which all 

walkers must pass. It commemorates 

Queen Victoria’s Golden Jubilee in 

1897. 

One of the best views into the 

city is from this clock, all the way 

down pedestrianised Eastgate 

Street with its huge range of typical 

Did you know? 

The Eastgate Clock in 

Chester, is said to be the 

most photographed clock 

in England after Big Ben 


ILLUSTRATION BY 

CONTISTA MEDIA LTD 

Chester architecture, Gothic, 

Tudor, Georgian, neoclassical and 

nineteenth century mock Tudor. 

Further along the walls we pass 

the cathedral and the old abbey 

grounds. Sometimes you’ll see a 

range of swift hunting birds being put 

through their paces below. 

At a point where the walls turn 

north there is a round tower marking 

the corner. From Roman times 

Chester was always a rectangular city 

with rounded corners and a defensive 

tower at each corner. This particular 

tower is named after King Charles I 

who in 1645 is said to have watched 

the Battle of Rowton Moor unfold 

from its roof. It was a bad day for the 

ill-fated king as his army were driven 

from the field and he narrowly missed 

being killed by a Parliamentary sniper 

as he escaped. 

From here walls now run parallel to 

the Shropshire Union Canal which is 

cut deep into the sandstone outcrop 

on which Chester was built. At 

North Gate the old Roman northsouth 

road through Chester (Cardo 

Maximus) passes below. The elegant, 

brick-built Blue Coat School, opened 

in 1717 to provide education for poor 

and deserving boys of the city is 

visible from the gate. It is now part of 

Chester University. 

The walls now run westwards, 

downhill towards the old Roman 

port. Midway along there is an 

eighteenth-century round tower 

with stone seating facing into the 

à 


city. This was built as the Goblin 

Tower but now it’s locally known 

as Pemberton’s Parlour after a 

mayor of Chester who was involved 

in its reconstruction. Below this 

stand two towers built to defend 

the Roman port. The one nearest 

the river is called - not surprisingly 

- Water Tower while the other is 

named after Bonewaldesthorne, 

an officer in the army of Queen 

Aethelflaed, who in the tenthcentury 

was responsible for 

extending Chester’s Roman walls 

down to the river. 

Surprisingly, at this point a 

railway line is cut straight through 

the walls. This act of Victorian 

vandalism was done in 1846, long 

before the city walls were scheduled 

as an ancient monument in 1979. 

The walk along the western 

length of the walls gives a good 

view over the Roodee racecourse 

which was Britain’s largest port in 

Roman times. The River Dee now 

skirts the racecourse in the distance 

where it is crossed by the Grosvenor 

Bridge. When this elegant stone 

bridge was opened by Queen 

Victoria’s mother in 1832, it was 

the longest single-span arch bridge 

in the world, an honour that it 

retained for 30 years. 

After Roodee the wall reaches 

Chester Castle which was built on 

raised ground overlooking the River 

Dee. Constructed over centuries 

in the same sandstone as the city 

wall the castle consists of a Norman 

tower, a medieval stronghold and a 

sequence of neoclassical buildings 

that were designed by Thomas 

WHERE TO EAT 

– 

JOSEPH BENJAMIN 

This popular modern restaurant close 

to North Gate was created by Joseph 

and Benjamin who are also responsible 

for Porta Tapas next door. This 

winning team have recently ventured 

into Greater Manchester too. 

134 – 140 Northgate Street, 01244 

344295, josephbenjamin.co.uk 

– 

CHEF’S TABLE 

A tiny, cheerful café-cum-bistro that is 

open from breakfast till very late. Bare 

boards and black tables rightly place 

all the emphasis on the food and the 

service. This is probably also the best 

vegan restaurant in Chester. 

Music Hall Passage, 01244 403040, 

chefstablechester.co.uk 

– 

THE ARCHITECT 

Close to the race course, the home of 

Thomas Harrison who created so many 

of Chester’s fine 19th century buildings 

has been turned into a pub-cum-dining 

room offering traditional British dishes 

with an eastern twist. 

54 Nicholas St, 01244 353070, 

brunningandprice.co.uk/architect/ 

– 

IMAGE © D.SEJRUP 


Words | Adrian Mourby 

Pictured: 

King Charles 

Tower found in 

the North East 

corner of 

Chester's City 

Walls walk 

MEDIEVAL time 

every British city 

needed walls. Most 

demolished them 

in less turbulent times, to ease 

expansion in the eighteenth and 

nineteenth centuries but a few 

cities were far-sighted enough 

– or simply not wealthy enough 

– and deferred demolition until 

it happened that walls suddenly 

became fashionable again. 

Nowadays we no longer need 

them to keep out marauders or 

exclude rebellious armies but 

walls do keep a town centre 

compact and they do make for a 

great tourist attraction as well. 

Nowhere in Britain have city 

walls been so well preserved as at 

Chester, a small half-timbered, 

sandstone city on the River Dee 

that was a major west coast port 

in Roman times. The port silted 

106 BRITISHTRAVELJOURNAL.COM BRITISHTRAVELJOURNAL.COM 107 

walls. 

Stratford 

-upon 

-Avon 

Pictured 

Left-Right: 

Afternoon Tea 

at The Architect, 

Nicholas Street; 

Chester Castle; 

The Roman 

Gardens 

Harrison (1788 – 1813) the same 

person who designed Grosvenor 

Bridge. Today Chester’s military 

museum and Crown Courts are 

housed in the castle. 

Just before Bridge Gate the wall 

briefly disappears and becomes 

Castle Drive and the University’s 

Riverside complex, but it resumes 

within a few hundred yards at Old 

Dee Bridge. The very first bridge on 

this site was built by the Romans 

but this span dates from 1387. On 

the far side of this low sandstone 

structure there are the remains of a 

Roman temple to Minerva and the 

road then leads on to Wales. 

In medieval times relations 

between the people of Chester and 

their Welsh neighbours were so bad 

that it was not deemed illegal to kill 

a Welshman found within the city. 

(This law has never been repealed.) 

We are almost back at 

Peppergate but do look out beyond 

the walls as we come full circle. Next 

to the eleventh-century Church of St 

John the Baptist – greatly reduced 

following many collapses over the 

centuries – lie the remains of the 

largest Roman amphitheatre in 

Britain. Only half of it has been 

dug out because to uncover the 

rest several buildings would have 

to be demolished, not to mention 

the damage to St John’s shaky 

foundations. Now it’s time to set off 

into the centre and explore. 

For more information visit 

visitcheshire.com/chester 

IN OUR NEXT ISSUE: 

Stratford -upon-Avon, wander 

round this medieval market town 

in England's West Midlands... 

WALKING TOUR OF... 

STRATFORD 

UPON-AVON 

Visit Stratford upon Avon to 

catch a performance at 

one of Shakespeare’s plays 

or take a boat on the river. 

DISTANCE 

— 

This 2 mile walk 

takes about 45 

minutes but 

will of course 

take longer if 

you stop to take 

photographs 

or divert off it 

to explore all 

the curious and 

historic sights 

visible from the 

NCE UPON A 

Y 

à 

WHERE TO STAY 

– 

THE CHESTER 

GROSVENOR 

Built by the Duke of Westminster, this 

five-star Chester hotel represents very 

high standards of service. It also offers 

valet-parking and a Michelin-starred 

dining room with over 1000 wine labels. 

Simon Radley at The Grosvenor. 

Eastgate St, 01244 324024, 

chestergrosvenor.com 

– 

ODDFELLOWS 

With visually-stunning public rooms, 

Oddfellows is a well-heeled counterculture 

boutique hotel hidden behind 

a sombre 19th century facade. Modern 

bedrooms lie across a courtyard known 

as The Secret Garden. 

20 Lower Bridge Street, 01244 345454, 

oddfellowschester.com 

– 

EDGAR HOUSE 

Perhaps the most romantic hotel in 

Chester is this luxury Georgian villa on 

the city walls and overlooking the River 

Dee. A sweeping staircase, working 

fireplaces and lots of chandeliers 

complete the blend of heritage and 

luxury. 

22 City Walls, 01244 347007, 

edgarhouse.co.uk 

– 


BRITISH TRAVEL JOURNAL CROSSWORD 09 

ACROSS 

9 Selling point for a seaside pad 

(5,4) 

10 Cambridgeshire site of a 

wartime railway disaster (5) 

11 Low density wood (5) 

12 Scottish clan which produced 

Rob Roy (9) 

13 Sylvan Site of Special Scientific 

Interest near Grewelthorpe, 

North Yorkshire (8) 

14 Miffs (6) 

15 Birthplace of Formula One 

champion Nigel Mansell (5-4-6) 

19 The Continent (6) 

20 Decreased (8) 

23 Confused (2,1,6) 

25 Those who are male must not 

cut their hair (5) 

27 Musically slow (5) 

28 Rerun epic about immoderate 

desire (9) 

DOWN 

1 Good spot for a picnic, like the 

Tamar Valley (1,1,1,1) 

2 "Cautionary Tales for Children" 

writer (6) 

3 One way to cut a sandwich (2,4) 

4 Short video extract (4,4) 

5 Oenologists' annual London 

challenge (1,1,1,1) 

6 Alienate (8) 

7 Shakespearean theatre in 

Southwark (3,5) 

8 Incarcerated (10) 

13 --- House, Guernsey home to 

Victor Hugo (10) 

16 Trainers trampled tracts of land (8) 

17 Type of brandy (8) 

18 1987 Kevin Costner/Gene 

Hackman thriller (2,3,3) 

21 Alleged Great Glen 

lake-dweller (6) 

22 Preference (6) 

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SO31 9HP, or email the answers to crossword@britishtraveljournal.com 

BOOKSHELF 

We're reading... 

Answers will be printed in the Autumn/Winter Issue out 4 September 

ANSWERS TO CROSSWORD 08 | SPRING 2021 

ACROSS: 1 Stopped 5 Ufology 9 Smooth 10 Triassic 11 Urquhart 12 Greedy 

13 Recommends 15 Shad 16 Acts 18 Cohesively 21 Blazes 22 Mutinied 24 

Aberdeen 25 Orange 26 Orphans 27 Stashed. DOWN: 2 Tamar 3 Profumo 

4 Ephraim 6 Fridges 7 Lessees 8 Guildhall 10 Tutankhamun 14 Excalibur 17 

Sizergh 18 Cistern 19 Sits out 20 Vandals 23 Eagle 

W E LOVE 

Take the slow road: England & Wales Inspirational Journeys round England and 

Wales by Camper Van and Motorhome, Bloomsbury, £20 | Wild Swimming Walks 28 

coast, lake and river days out, Waterstones, £14.99 | Treasure Island An inspiring 

guide to 200 of Britain's most stunning and interesting islands, Bloomsbury, £18.99 | 

Coasting Elise Downing was the youngest person and first female to run the coast of 

Britain in 2016, Coasting is the story of her journey, Summersdale, £9.99 

The new Mavericks collection from Millican. If you have 

not yet heard of this sustainable backpack brand, and enjoy 

everyday adventures, then you should check out their website 

before you next lace up! The team are based from a farm at the 

foot of Skiddaw in the Lake District National Park, and named 

their company after a local legend, Millican Dalton who they 

describe as "a maverick spirit, defined by fierce independence". 

Smith The Roll Pack, as pictured, £140, homeofmillican.com 


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British Travel Journal | Summer 2021

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