The Star: July 15, 2021
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<strong>The</strong> <strong>Star</strong> Thursday <strong>July</strong> <strong>15</strong> <strong>2021</strong><br />
18<br />
NEWS<br />
Latest Canterbury news at starnews.co.nz<br />
‘It was my favourite country of my entire journey’<br />
INTO ASIA: Phaup-Stephens educating the village children<br />
in Laos about her journey, and with the NZ Army troops in<br />
Bamiyan, Afghanistan.<br />
• From page 17<br />
A police escort took her the<br />
last 200km out of Iran. She had<br />
reached an international kidnap<br />
zone and drug area.<br />
She shared Pakistan with the<br />
Black Caps.<br />
In a small village, Phaup-Stephens,<br />
wearing a New Zealand<br />
cap, was pushed to the front of a<br />
room filled with people in front<br />
of a tiny TV screen to watch the<br />
match between her home team<br />
and Pakistan. Everyone believed<br />
Phaup-Stephens when she joked<br />
Daniel Vittori was her cousin.<br />
<strong>The</strong> easiest visa for Phaup-<br />
Stephens to get was for Afghanistan.<br />
She looked up the<br />
NZ Army website, found their<br />
location in Bamiyan and sent an<br />
email asking if she could call in<br />
to say hello to the troops.<br />
She rocked up at the base with<br />
Tankini.<br />
“<strong>The</strong> look on the guards faces’<br />
were priceless.”<br />
Taken under the lieutenantcolonel’s<br />
wing – who had a<br />
daughter Phaup-Stephens’ age<br />
– she got to meet Afghanistan’s<br />
Governor-General and Fawzia<br />
Koofi, Afghanistan’s first female<br />
member of parliament.<br />
She met a mother with 30<br />
children and visited a national<br />
park modelled on a Department<br />
of Conservation park.<br />
“It was my favourite country<br />
of my whole entire journey,” she<br />
said.<br />
“It was nothing like I had ever<br />
thought it would be. It was nothing<br />
like the media portrayed. <strong>The</strong><br />
people were so welcoming.”<br />
From India, she travelled<br />
through Nepal.<br />
“I got really fit but struggled<br />
with hills, but if it got too hard,<br />
I just got off and pushed, I was<br />
ripped,” she said.<br />
Her staple diet during the<br />
journey consisted of rice and<br />
bananas, and Coke if she could<br />
afford it.<br />
Unable to cycle through Tibet,<br />
she considered taking a plane.<br />
“But at that point, someone<br />
said to me, “Kiwi birds don’t fly.”’<br />
That cemented her determination<br />
to continue her journey<br />
overland, and she booked a place<br />
on a train going on the Tibet-<br />
Qinghai railway, which took her<br />
into China, 10 months into her<br />
journey.<br />
<strong>The</strong> line passed through Tanggula<br />
Pass, which is 5072m above<br />
sea level and is the world’s highest<br />
point on a railway.<br />
From Laos, she went to<br />
Thailand, Singapore and then to<br />
Indonesia where she was stuck<br />
for a year.<br />
She spent months emailing<br />
yacht clubs, harbour masters and<br />
boat owners trying to hitch a<br />
ride to Australia, while working<br />
in a dive shop and as an au pair.<br />
Phaup-Stephens travelled to<br />
East Timor for Anzac Day on a<br />
ferry “like one of those ones you<br />
see on TV sinking all the time.”<br />
Crewing a superyacht, owned<br />
by an Australian billionaire<br />
eventually took her to Australia.<br />
“It should have taken 12 days<br />
to get there but it took 24,” said<br />
Phaup-Stephens.<br />
“It was horrific. We were so<br />
close to running out of food and<br />
fuel.”<br />
Most of the trip was pirate<br />
watch.<br />
Phaup-Stephens arrived in<br />
Australia with $84 to her name.<br />
She got a waitressing job in<br />
Yeppoon for three months, then<br />
cycled and sailed down the coast.<br />
<strong>The</strong> final jump was another<br />
mission. Luckily, Marmite NZ<br />
was running a competition at the<br />
time. <strong>The</strong>y were turning 100 and<br />
were going to bring 100 Kiwis<br />
home.<br />
Phaup-Stephens was one of the<br />
winners, but refused the plane<br />
ticket home so they swapped it<br />
for some money, which she spent<br />
on a cargo ship, hopping off in<br />
Tauranga on December <strong>15</strong>, 2010.<br />
She made it back home to<br />
Christchurch, via train, just in<br />
time for Christmas – 20 months<br />
after she started.<br />
Her old boss saw her on the<br />
news during her “30 seconds of<br />
fame,” and she had her old printing<br />
job back within 24 hours.<br />
Phaup-Stephens also joined the<br />
Army Reserves after the February<br />
22, 2011 earthquake.<br />
Back at work, her colleagues<br />
helped her track down McLeod<br />
whom she had lost touch with<br />
after leaving New Zealand.<br />
“I was a wee bit surprised<br />
when I got Kylie’s call but I<br />
thought it would be good to<br />
catch up,” said McLeod.<br />
He had seen Phaup-Stephens’<br />
adventures on TV.<br />
“I thought it was a pretty out<br />
there and daring thing to do,<br />
and it was interesting to hear all<br />
her stories,” he said.<br />
Over Easter this year, they got<br />
engaged.<br />
“<strong>The</strong> Highlanders unexpectedly<br />
thrashed the Crusaders, and<br />
it’s been a long-standing bet that<br />
if that happens, we would get<br />
married,” Phaup-Stephens said.<br />
McLeod was born in Oamaru<br />
and is a “staunch Highlanders<br />
supporter” said Phaup-Stephens,<br />
while she is loyal to the Crusaders.<br />
“We were sitting on the couch<br />
when they won and Sandy said,<br />
well, will you marry me?<br />
“I thought, well here we go, I<br />
finally did it,” said McLeod.<br />
Phaup-Stephens said she was<br />
so shocked she ignored him and<br />
McLeod had to ask again.<br />
“I was mostly just shocked<br />
the Crusaders had actually lost,<br />
but of course I said yes,” Phaup-<br />
Stephens said.<br />
<strong>The</strong>ir daughter, Paige, turned<br />
seven last Tuesday.<br />
When the proposal happened,<br />
Phaup-Stephens said Paige was<br />
so excited, she was running<br />
around the lounge saying,<br />
“Mum’s going to have the same<br />
last name as me!”<br />
Paige has been “a life-changer,”<br />
said Phaup-Stephens.<br />
And even though she would be<br />
terrified, she hopes one day Paige<br />
will venture out on her own big<br />
adventures just like her mum.<br />
Tankini is now retired in the<br />
garden shed.<br />
Her family go camping around<br />
the South Island for holidays.<br />
Although Phaup-Stephens still<br />
prefers freedom camping, she<br />
compromises with McLeod who<br />
prefers caravanning and the luxuries<br />
of power and running water.<br />
“When we go road tripping,<br />
my man still laughs at me<br />
because I am so bad with directions,”<br />
Phaup-Stephens said.<br />
“But I’m always the sort of<br />
person that prefers left over right<br />
or to flip a coin for which way<br />
I’ll go.”<br />
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