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BORDEAUX
– MARKETS –
Vineyards at Château de Malleret
The oldest of its current woes is the ‘Bordeaux
bashing’ phenomenon, in other words, a
measure of disenchantment among some of the
French for what used to be by far their favourite
wine tipple. And yet, France accounts for 57%
of the Bordeaux wine market by value. The issue has four
main causes:
• Skyrocketing prices of the Grands Crus, which soared
by 700% between 1986 and 2012, though they often
hide a market reality where enjoyable wines can be
bought for just a few euros.
• A change in consumer habits, where imbibers are
increasingly less inclined to cellar wines. The trend works
to the disadvantage of ‘classic’ Bordeaux wines for laying
down, which are concentrated and tannic, and difficult
to enjoy when young.
• France’s largest wine region also frequently draws the
attention of the media, keen to spread the word about
the growing environmental expectations of consumers.
There is no getting away from the fact, though, that
Bordeaux has high rainfall which puts vines under a lot
of pressure.
• And finally, greater globalisation comes with increased
competition for Bordeaux wines, even in the domestic
market.
The trend seems to have gained traction over the last
10 years and is tarnishing the image of Bordeaux wines,
irrespective of their category.
AUTUMN 2021 GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 11