British Travel Journal | Summer 2022

BRITISH TRAVEL 

JOURNAL 

SUMMER 2022 | ISSUE 12 

BRITISHTRAVELJOURNAL.COM 

UNIQUE LUXURY 

BREAKS 

FROM CYCLING TOURS IN 

SUSSEX TO FOREST BATHING 

IN THE COTSWOLDS 

NORTH CORNWALL 

BEAUTIFUL BEACHES AND 

INSPIRING ART IN ST IVES 

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+ TRAVEL NEWS | BEACHES | INTERVIEWS | HOTELS | SUMMER FESTIVALS

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ACCOMMODATION | DINING | GARDEN | SPA

CONTRIBUTIONS 

BRITISH TRAVEL 

JOURNAL 

BritishTravelJournal.com 

EDITORS 

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jessica Way 

FEATURES EDITOR Samantha Rutherford 

CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Angela Harding 

HEAD OF DIGITAL Adrian Wilkinson 

CONTRIBUTORS 

Chantal Borciani, Martin Dorey, 

Sophie Farrah, Jane Knight, Sophie Minto, 

Adrian Mourby, Karyn Noble, Natalie Paris 

COVER PHOTO 

— 

View of Godrevy Lighthouse in St Ives Bay 

taken from the headland of Gwithian Beach 

© Image Editor's own 

Published by 

CONTISTA MEDIA 

Unit 6, Basepoint, Andersons Road, 

Southampton, SO14 5FE 

01489 660680 

contistamedia.co.uk 

Welcome 

EDITOR’S LETTER 

— 

Those who recognise the view of 

Godrevy Lighthouse from our front 

cover won’t be surprised to hear our 

focus this edition is on North Cornwall. 

We love to get the first scoop on exciting UK 

travel news here at British Travel Journal, so the 

launch of Una St Ives (page 68) made it to the 

top of our travel agenda, as did one of our all-time 

favourite hotels, The Headland, Newquay (page 92) – with the 

launch of their luxurious £10 million Aqua Club swimming and 

spa sanctuary. 

While in Cornwall's beautiful Carbis Bay we had the 

pleasure of meeting renowned British chef Adam Handling at 

his latest restaurant, Ugly Butterfly (page 42) and chatted to 

him about cooking and his passion for zero-waste. 

Whether you want to go glamping, have a house to yourself 

or discover the latest hotels this summer, we tell you where to 

look in our Travel News (page 9) and suggest ten incredible 

summer staycation ideas in our Unique Luxury Breaks (page 60). 

From new gardening, cycling and surf-school experiences to 

food, drink and vineyard tours we are spoilt for choice this year. 

Have you heard of Boho Gelato, Treleavens or Ruby Violet? 

Get a taste of these wonderful artisan ice-creams and gelati, 

including where to find them and where to stay, in our Cream of 

the Crop summer special (page 34). 

Plus, don’t miss our adventures on The Northumberland 

Coast (page 86), our interview with British hotelier Robin 

Hutson – owner of the PIGs hotels (page 24) – and our Festivals 

Calender (page 74). And finally, in celebration as you raise a 

glass for the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee weekend this June, we 

urge you to do so with a Great British Drink (page 76). 

Phew! It’s going to be a buzzing summer – enjoy. 

Jessica x 

JESSICA WAY 

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF 

– 

All rights reserved by Contista Media Ltd. Copyright is either 

owned by or licenced to Contista Media Ltd, or permitted by the 

original copyright holder. Reproduction in whole or part without 

written permission is strictly prohibited. While every care is taken 

prices and details are subject to change and Contista Media Ltd 

take no responsibility for omissions or errors. Views expressed by 

authors are not necessarily those of the publisher. 

@BritishTravelJournal 

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CONTENTS 

SUMMER 2022 | ISSUE 12 

09 

56 

JOTTINGS 

09 

TRAVEL NEWS 

We look at new accommodation (everything from 13thcentury 

castles to refurbished Georgian country inns) spanning 

hotels, self-catering and glamping, as well as exciting activities 

to enjoy this summer, whether it be a vodka school or a cliffside 

sauna. 

PRIDE OF BRITAIN COMPETITION 

32 There are four prizes up for grabs: enter for your chance 

to win an indulgent Champagne afternoon tea for two at a 

luxurious Pride of Britain hotel. 

10 OF THE BEST UNIQUE LUXURY BREAKS 

60 This is our pick of the ultimate summer experiences, 

whether you fancy water sports in Cornwall, wine in 

Buckinghamshire, forest bathing in the Cotswolds, or even a 

Bridgerton-themed walking tour in Bath. 

FESTIVALS CALENDAR 

74 From summer-solstice-themed events to the world’s oldest 

golf tournament, these festivals old and new are the cream of the 

crop for summer. 

GREAT BRITISH DRINKS 

76 Need to stock the drinks cabinet for the Platinum Jubilee 

celebrations or take an impressive bottle to a BBQ? We have four 

delicious, very British, suggestions. 

FOR YOUR JOURNEY 

98 Our summer book recommendations for your beach bag, 

as well as crossword fun. 

FEATURES 

34 

CREAM OF THE CROP 

This round-up of the best independent producers 

of gelato and ice cream comes complete with nearby cool 

getaway suggestions to make the most of your summer gourmet 

expedition. 

WALKING TOUR IN BRISTOL 

50 We take a stroll of Bristol’s Georgian port, uncovering the 

city’s secrets, its historical glory and stately architecture, and 

provide recommendations for where to eat and stay. 

RETREAT EAST 

56 Head to Sussex for a tranquil getaway amid 35 acres 

of countryside; Retreat East is the ultimate destination for 

pampering and relaxation. 

48 HOURS IN UNA ST IVES, CARBIS BAY 

68 The new Una St Ives luxury resort is even more reason to 

visit Cornwall; editor Jessica Way takes her family on a two-day 

adventure by the beach. 

IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF ANNE BOLEYN 

78 Want to live like Anne Boleyn (without the unhappy 

ending, obviously)? Step back in time to Kent’s Hever Castle and 

the gardens where she spent childhood or to luxurious Thornbury 

Castle in Gloucestershire and sleep in the Henry VIII suite she 

once shared with her husband. 


E D I T O R 

L O V E S 

The new signature Kew Gin and Tonic 

and vodka-based Botanical Spritz, 

made with the help of East London 

Liquor Co, taste as fresh and delicious 

as their colourful can suggests. 

Ready to drink cocktail cans are 

available in Kew’s shops, Kew in West 

London and Kew's wild botanic garden in 

Wakehurst, West Sussex, priced £4.50. 

shop.kew.org/kew-organic-gin-new 

Launching this June, Terrein is the 

world’s first hiking boot to react to 

movement three times faster than the 

human body to reduce ankle injury 

– the perfect boot to wear on hiking 

holidays, expeditions and adventures. 

Terrein is available to purchase from 20 

June 2022 for men and women, in two 

striking colour ways, sand and turquoise, 

priced £180. 

terrein-footwear.com 

THE NORTHUMBERLAND 

86 COAST 

We take a road trip to the underrated 

Northumberland Coast and find beguiling 

beauty and diversity, serene beaches and 

rugged wildernes. 

48 HOURS IN THE HEADLAND 

92 HOTEL AND SPA, NEWQUAY 

With its exquisite clifftop setting and grand 

Victorian architecture, the Headland Hotel 

& Spa in Cornwall is one of Britain’s finest 

destinations, and now with a new £10 million 

swimming and wellbeing complex called The 

Aqua Club, there are even more reasons to visit. 

INTERVIEWS 

24 

ROBIN HUTSON 

64 

Renowned for THE PIG hotel empire, 

Robin Hutson OBE has redefined British 

staycations with his boutique country-garden 

properties that champion local produce and 

producers. He chats to us about his new book 

and much-anticipated vineyard. 

ADAM HANDLING 

42 We take a trip to the sublime Carbis 

Bay Hotel & Estate in Cornwall and chat to 

Adam Handling, chef of its Ugly Butterfly 

restaurant about his zero-waste policy and 

sustainable ethos. 

85 

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6 BritishTravelJournal.com

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LOOKING AHEAD... 

TRAVEL NEWS 

Whether you want to go glamping, have a house to yourself or 

discover the latest hotels this summer, we tell you where to look 

Text by Jane Knight 

HOTELS 

SELF-CATERING 

GLAMPING 

ATTRACTIONS 

from page 10 from page 14 

from page 18 from page 20 


Hotels 

BERKSHIRE 

Hare and Hounds 

They’ve had a lot of fun playing on the name 

of this beautifully refurbished Georgian 

coaching inn. Expect portraits of military 

personnel with dogs’ heads, hares’ ears sticking 

out from lampshades, plus hunting-themed 

fabrics and wallpaper. The pub’s proximity 

to Newbury explains the stable door in its 

enormous timber-frame dining room, with 

horse-head sculptures and bridle accessories. 

Some of the 30 well-designed bedrooms 

are in the real stables outside; all come with 

complimentary gin and Bramley toiletries. And 

if you want to visit Highclere, aka Downton 

Abbey, it’s just ten minutes’ drive away. Rooms 

from £120 a night, with breakfast. ◆ 

hareandhoundsnewbury.co.uk 

SCOTLAND 

Mingary Castle 

Possibly Scotland’s most unique restaurant with rooms, this 13thcentury 

fortress is the place to enjoy chef patron Colin Nicholson’s 

six-course tasting menu before retiring to one of four bedrooms. 

Each named after a Scottish clan, they have hand-carved four 

posters, one with a private battlement. From £360 with breakfast. ◆ 

mingarycastle.co.uk 

NORFOLK 

Congham Hall 

Book one of the new Orchard Cabins at Congham and you get a 

stylish summer base from which to visit nearby Sandringham, with 

its exhibition on the royal family’s relationship with the house. 

Rooms have an outdoor tub and a wall of windows. From £475 

with dinner for two and breakfast. ◆ 

conghamhallhotel.co.uk 


BEXHILL-ON-SEA 

The Relais Cooden Beach 

This summer sees the transformation of a 1930s beach resort to 

become hotelier Grace Leo’s second Relais property. The first of 

45 rooms are already redesigned in coastal blues, with the rest 

finished by September. Rooms from £295 with breakfast. 

thecoodenbeachhotel.co.uk 

LONDON 

Lost Property 

You’re virtually sleeping on the steps of St Paul’s 

at the latest Hilton Curio Collection property, 

opening in July. Behind the Grade-II-listed 

Creed Court building façade lie 145 rooms, 

some with cathedral views. In keeping with 

the name, the decor celebrates London’s lost 

railway stations, historic fashion trends and old 

city professions. The restaurant, called Found, 

holds an eight-metre bright-blue resin bar and 

a Murano glass chandelier featuring figurines 

of extinct birds, which together form the shape 

of a two-metre eagle in flight. Classic dishes 

include prawn cocktail, roast duck breast and 

Eton mess. Rooms from £170 with breakfast. ◆ 

lostpropertyhotel.com 

YORK 

Guesthouse No 1 York 

If you love vinyls, this fun hotel is the place to 

come, with a record library, turntables in the 

rooms, and DJ Upside Your Mind playing every 

Friday evening in the summer on the heated 

terrace. A toy train runs through the bar, and 

rooms have coffee machines hidden in dolls’ 

houses. Rooms from £165. ◆ 

guesthousehotels.co.uk 


Hotels 

EDINBURGH 

Virgin Hotel 

It’s been a long time coming, but Richard 

Branson’s first UK hotel opens near Edinburgh 

Castle in June, seven years after Virgin’s first 

hotel launched in Chicago. Delayed after 

10th-century remains were found on the site, 

it promises to be worth the wait. Some of the 

222 rooms have views of the castle, which is 

also on show from a rooftop sanctuary. 

They all have Virgin Hotels’ signature 

layout, with a dressing room and bathroom 

rolled into one and a red Smeg fridge in the 

bedroom. Downstairs is a members-style 

social club and an all-day dining space. 

Rooms from £330, with breakfast. ◆ 

virginhotels.com 

DEDHAM 

Talbooth House and Spa 

After adding a spa by its outdoor pool, the former Maison 

Talbooth has rebranded itself to show its new focus on 

wellness. Top-to-toe Elemis treatments are on offer, or you 

can just lounge in the outdoor hot tub. Stay overnight in 

one of 12 bedrooms from £300 with breakfast. ◆ 

milsomhotels.com 

SURREY 

The Georgian, Coppa Club 

The all-day lifestyle ethos of Coppa Club has just arrived in the 

market town of Haslemere. In a Grade-II-listed property, the 

venue has spaces to work, eat, drink, and relax (with CBDinfused 

cocktails). You can stay in one of 13 bedrooms, which 

cost from £90 with breakfast. ◆ 

coppaclub.co.uk 


SCOTLAND 

Royal Marine Hotel, Brora 

Tartan fabrics and a stripped-back style give a Scandi-Scottish 

feel to this hotel’s 21 rooms, following a multimillion pound refurb. 

On the popular North Coast 500 coastal route, it’s just an hour 

from Inverness. Rooms from £224 with breakfast. 

royalmarinebrora.com 

WEST SUSSEX 

Leonardslee 

The Michelin-starred menu created by chef 

Jean Delport at Restaurant Interlude is up 

to 21 courses. It’s good, then, that after 

dishes such as pork with lobster and wild 

garlic and brown choux with dandelion 

and hazelnut you now only need to stagger 

up the stairs at this 19th-century Italianate 

mansion. Along a magnificent hallway and 

galleried landing ten elegant rooms mix 

antiques with contemporary art. Outside 

are 240 acres of garden to walk off the 

excesses of the night before, with a wallaby 

enclosure, an ornamental rock garden, a 

sculpture park and seven interlaced lakes. 

Dinner £145pp, rooms from £350. ◆ 

leonardsleegardens.co.uk 

WALES 

Grove of Narbeth 

This boutique bolthole near the Pembrokeshire coast 

is looking fresh from a complete refurbishment, which 

started in the public areas and finished in 

April with the last of its bedrooms. A Pride of Britain 

member, its rooms blend traditional styles and 

textures with contemporary comforts, and are 

from £260 with breakfast. ◆ 

grovenarberth.co.uk 


Self-Catering 

SCOTLAND 

Kirnan Estate 

Get back to nature at the 400-acre Kirnan 

Estate on the west coast of Scotland, about 

two hours from Glasgow. As well as two lochs 

and a picturesque glen, Kirnan now has three 

newly renovated cottages. Pick from one-bed 

Torrnalaich Cottage; Chapel Cottage, with 

two double bedrooms plus a third room for 

four singles; or Kirnan Beg, a Scandi-inspired 

wooden cabin. Then head off on one of the 

many walks, try clay pigeon shooting, or fly 

fishing on the River Add, which runs through 

the estate. Yoga and wild swimming are on 

offer too. From £200 a night for two. ◆ 

kirnanestate.com 

CORNWALL 

Gwithian Lookout 

When you can enjoy views of a lighthouse from the 

outdoor shower, from the table on the large terrace, 

or from the master bedroom, you know your holiday 

rental is going to be pretty special. At this chic beach 

bolthole, it’s even more special, as the building on show 

is Godrevy Lighthouse, which Virginia Woolf first visited 

in 1892 and which inspired her novel To The Lighthouse. 

Accommodation has clearly changed a lot since then. 

This cedar-clad beach house with a wall of glass has 

an open-plan kitchen/living area with wooden ladders 

leading to further seating in two mezzanine areas. The 

three bedrooms are stripped back and simple. The 

master room has its own en suite while the other two 

(one of which is a single) share a shower room. 

The Lookout is just 100 metres from the beach, from 

where you can take a boat trip to the lighthouse, as 

Woolf did herself. Or try to catch a wave with the help 

of one of the local surf schools. Just down the coast is 

the blue flag beach at Carbis Bay, and walkers can join 

the nearby South West Coast Path. Seven nights for five 

people costs from £2,560. ◆ 

luxurycoastal.co.uk 


THE COTSWOLDS 

The Lakes by YOO at Cotswolds Waters 

If you’ve always fancied owning a lakeside holiday home, take 

a look at this development by the original Lakes by YOO estate. 

Reservations are now open and estate tours are available to 

book, with a show house opening later this year. Prices start from 

£765,000 for a stunning two-bedroom lake-view apartment. 

thelakesatcotswoldswaters.co.uk 

THE COTSWOLDS 

Daylesford Houses 

Joining the litter at The Wild Rabbit’s countrycottage 

collection are two larger properties for 

groups. With reclaimed timber beams, exposed 

Cotswold stone walls, and country-chic 

interiors, they are just as lovely as their smaller 

siblings. Fowler’s House sleeps eight adults and 

four children, with a wooden table for 12 in the 

farmhouse kitchen, two spacious sitting rooms 

and a sweeping rear terrace. It costs from 

£7,000 a week. The 17th-century Old House 

has four double bedrooms, is surrounded by its 

own walled garden, and costs from £5,500 a 

week. Guests also have access to the Bamford 

Wellness Spa. ◆ 

thewildrabbit.co.uk 

ESSEX 

Hedingham Castle 

It’s the ultimate romantic escape – the only bedroom in 

a Norman castle with a four-poster bed and a bath for 

two. Explore the grounds or book the escape room, then 

retreat to the Royal Chamber at the top of the keep, 

which costs £395, with Champagne and continental 

breakfast. Opens July. ◆ 

hedinghamcastle.co.uk 


NORTH LINCOLNSHIRE 

Sawcliffe Manor 

Groups of two to 46 people can stay at Sawcliffe, which has just opened 

the doors of its historic house and cottages to guests after a careful 

restoration. Try axe throwing or hit the giant yurt for an on-site party. 

Cottages from £150, manor for 24 from £1,500 a night. 

sawcliffemanor.com 

CORNWALL 

Rosehill in Padstow 

We’re not sure if Charles Dickens actually 

stayed here when visiting his friend, who 

owned the property, but we are sure of 

Rosehill’s fantastic location. Within walking 

distance of the beach and all the foodie 

restaurants that Padstow has to offer, it 

comes with its own parking space and 

garden. Inside the Grade-II-listed building, 

as well as a comfy living room and openplan 

kitchen diner, there’s also an attic 

room, ideal for a snug. It has the same 

views of the Camel Estuary you get from the 

master bedroom, one of five rooms. A week 

for eight from £3,328. ◆ 

boutique-retreats.co.uk 

LONDON 

The Other House 

Stay for a night or a year at this apartment-style 

club with hotel services, opening on 5 July. 

Book studios with kitchenettes from £270 or 

Club Combos sleeping ten with their own front 

door, from £1,500. There’s an all-day café, 

two bars, and a gym with vitality pool and 

wellbeing classes, too. ◆ 

otherhouse.com 


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Glamping 

EAST SUSSEX 

Dixie the Daydream 

Caravan 

Think caravans are boring and old 

fashioned? Then take a look at Dixie 

Daydream, which has been beautifully done 

out by two stylists using products from online 

store Wayfair. Cassandra Doyle and Diana 

Civil aka The Style Producers have totally 

transformed the three-bedroom caravan at 

Camber Sands, adding a copper sink and a 

contemporary built-in fireplace along with 

statement furniture and decor. If you like 

the look, you can shop online for individual 

elements. From £180 a night for six. ◆ 

airbnb.com 

DEVON 

Lake pods at Clawford Lakes 

Fish from the deck of these lake pods on an 80-acre wildlife 

haven that opened in April with a range of accommodation, 

from floating cabins to lakeside lodges – close to two National 

Parks and a spectacular coastline. A pool will open later this 

summer. The pods sleep two from £340. ◆ 

clawfordlakes.co.uk 

KENT 

The Little Cabin Dungeness 

Twin railway carriages make a quirky new holiday retreat 

amid the unique Dungeness Nature Reserve, with 

uninterrupted views of the shingle beach. Created by artist Sara 

Newman, The Log Cabin sleeps six in three bedrooms. 

Three nights cost from £885. ◆ 

tlcdungeness.com 


CORNWALL 

Airstream Dolly at the Eden Project 

Vintage caravans, bell tents and pods make up the YHA’s new 

glamping site at the Eden Project, where you can eat at The Hub 

or cook for yourself on a BBQ firepit. Sleeping just two people, 

Dolly costs from £59. 

yha.org.uk 

LINCOLNSHIRE 

Bainland Lodge Retreats 

Safari tents and shepherds’ huts already 

abound at Bainland, a 45-acre country 

estate near Woodhall Spa. Now, for the 

perfect romantic break, they also have 

a one-bedroom treehouse with lakeside 

views and a hot tub on the deck. Cook in 

the kitchen or use the new Copper Goose 

delivery service, with food delivered to 

the door by electric cart — you can even 

order it by app from the hot tub. There are 

plenty of activities on site, from cycling 

to swimming; you can book the pool for 

private use for £30 an hour. Stay three 

nights in summer from £1,049. ◆ 

bainland.co.uk 

SOUTH WILTSHIRE 

Pythouse Kitchen Garden 

You’ve heard of restaurants with rooms – now we 

bring you the restaurant with a glamping village. 

Six bell tents and a cosy shepherds’ hut sit in an 

orchard near this lunchtime-only restaurant. 

They share showers, a cocktail area, a kitchen and a 

dining area. Two nights for six people from 

£950 on weekdays. ◆ 

pythousekitchengarden.co.uk 


Attractions 

UK BEACHES 

Surf Wood for Good 

Been to the beach and seen a discarded 

broken bodyboard? More than 16,000 

polystyrene bodyboards are left on UK 

beaches each year, releasing myriad micro 

polystyrene balls into the coastal ecosystem, 

according to Keep Britain Tidy. Jamie 

Johnstone from Dick Pearce Bellyboards 

felt compelled to act after seeing the sheer 

volume of snapped boards at his local beach. 

He came up with a brilliant solution in the 

form of the Surf Wood for Good campaign. 

Through it, wooden boards can be hired 

free of charge in 24 locations around the UK 

coast, allowing everyone to enjoy sustainable 

surf and seaside fun. ◆ 

dickpearce.com 

CHESHIRE 

Jodrell Bank 

Launch your own digital Sputnik, experience a meteor show or 

try ‘driving’ a radio telescope at the interactive exhibition in the 

observatory’s First Light Pavilion, which opens on 4 June. The 

76-metre grass-topped dome mirrors the shape and scale of the 

Lovell Telescope and will also feature planetarium-style shows. ◆ 

jodrellbank.net 

SUSSEX AND YORKSHIRE 

Duck and puffin trails 

Follow an art trail of 30 five-foot rubber duck sculptures 

along the Sussex coast from Hastings to Bexhill from June. 

Each has been painted by a local artist and will host a wellbeing 

activity. In Yorkshire, look out for giant puffins from July, 

with 40 sculptures placed along the coast. ◆ 

followthatduck.co.uk / puffinsgalore.co.uk 


WEST SUFFOLK 

Racing at Newmarket 

Go behind the scenes at the races before taking your seat in 

the private enclosure during the Champions Lawn Race Day 

Experience, with dates throughout the summer, for £65pp. Pay an 

extra £10pp for the tour, evening racing and a top-name concert. 

discovernewmarket.co.uk 

CORNWALL 

Cliffside Saunas 

Sweat it out this summer in a sauna with a 

view, looking out over beautiful Watergate 

Bay. You can hire the Canadian cedarwood 

cabin for your group of up to ten people or 

join a communal session. Either way, there 

is a range of complimentary essential oils to 

enhance the experience, a freshwater rainfall 

shower outside to cool down afterwards 

and even cold-water immersion if you’re 

feeling brave. A series of workshops are also 

planned, dealing with breathwork, hot and 

cold immersion and holistic health. From 

£20pp for an 8am communal session or £95 

for an hour’s private hire. ◆ 

sauna-society.com 

CORNWALL 

Colwith Farm Distillery 

Done your share of gin distilleries and want 

something different? Then try a plough-to-bottle 

vodka school, using Cornish potatoes. The 

two-hour class (£79pp) looks at the history and 

origins of vodka and then lets you try your hand at 

blending botanicals to your own taste and filling 

your own 70cl bottle. ◆ 

colwithfarmdistillery.co.uk 


Matilda The Musical 

THE ROYAL SHAKESPEARE COMPANY 

Make time for Matilda as part of your trip to London this summer 

Matilda The Musical is the 

record-breaking production 

from the Royal Shakespeare 

Company which has 

been performed in countries including 

Australia, New Zealand, South Korea, 

USA and more. 

Adapted from the much-loved Roald 

Dahl book, the globally acclaimed 

musical has won 99 international awards 

including 24 for Best Musical and has 

been seen by more than 10 million people 

across more than 90 cities worldwide. 

Matilda The Musical premiered at the 

RSC’s Courtyard Theatre in Stratfordupon-Avon 

in November 2010, playing 

to sold-out audiences before transferring 

to London’s West End, opening at the 

Cambridge Theatre on the corner of 

Earlham Street facing Seven Dials in 

October 2011, and is currently taking 

bookings until the end of May 2023. 

With book by Dennis Kelly and original 

songs by Tim Minchin, Matilda The Musical 

is the story of an extraordinary little girl, 

armed with a vivid imagination and a 

sharp mind, who dares to take a stand 


SPECIAL FEATURE 

Photos by Manual Harlan 

and change her own destiny. 

A tonic for audiences of all ages, this 

anarchic production continues Roald Dahl's 

theme of bravery and standing up for what 

you believe in, inspiring young audiences 

all over the world. The London production 

has welcomed over 4 million audience 

members to the Cambridge Theatre, where 

it recently celebrated 10 years in the West 

End. Your visit to London this summer just 

isn’t complete without a trip to experience 

Matilda The Musical. ◆ 

HOW TO BOOK TICKETS 

Matilda The Musical is now 

taking bookings until 28 May 

2023 with excellent group rates 

available midweek throughout 

the summer holidays. 

Tickets priced from £20. 

Call 020 3925 2998 to book. 

For the full performance 

schedule visit; 

matildathemusical.com 


INTERVIEW WITH 

ROBIN HUTSON 

One of Britain’s most influential hoteliers, Robin Hutson 

OBE, tells British Travel Journal about his renowned PIG hotels, 

brand-new book, and much-anticipated vineyard 

Text by Sophie Farrah | Images by Jake Eastham 

They say that from little acorns great oaks 

grow, but in the case of Robin Hutson, the 

starting point was in fact a few weeds and a 

couple of carrots. 

After selling his hugely successful hotel chain Hotel 

du Vin in 2004, Robin was ready to kick back and 

relax, but a chance encounter in the New Forest quickly 

changed all that. 

“I was planning to put my feet up!” he laughs. 

“Then I got a call from Jim Ratcliffe who asked me to 

help him get Lime Wood (a five-star hotel in the New 

Forest) open. I was looking at other bits of property 

that the hotel owned; tidying things up, closing and 

selling, and there was this little hotel in Brockenhurst 

called Whitley Ridge…” he recalls. “I went there to have 

it valued for sale, but when I walked into the kitchen 

garden I had a lightbulb moment, I suppose. This small 

but perfectly formed garden had two carrots and a 

few weeds growing in it, and I just suddenly thought, I 

wonder if there’s a way of bringing the kitchen garden 

right to the fore of everything?” 

And with that seed firmly sown, great hotels began 

to grow. Robin and his wife Judy transformed Whitley 

Ridge and in 2011 it reopened as THE PIG. Since then, 

the litter has expanded considerably, and there are 

now a further seven PIG hotels spread across every 

county along the south coast of England. Today, 

Robin, who earlier in 2022 was awarded an OBE for 

services to the hospitality industry and philanthropy, is 

one of the most influential hoteliers in the country. He 

is deeply admired by his peers and, most importantly, 

well-liked, and it’s easy to see why; when we speak, he 

is full of warmth, sincerity and has a palpable sense of 

fun, much like his hotels. 

“Coming from a background of five-star properties, I 

was aware that the country-house sector was peddling 

an out-of-date concept, really. It was all rather formal 

and stuffy – punters were scared to go up the drive,” he 

explains. 

“Not being too grand was central to what we 

wanted to do. That’s really where the name THE PIG 

comes from. I wanted it to have an agricultural 


connotation because of the garden, but I also thought – it 

sounds a bit like a pub, people aren’t scared of going to 

pubs. It was never going to be ‘the something-something 

grand manor hotel’, or anything that sounds too posh.” 

Having weathered the recent pandemic storm, Robin’s 

unique porcine properties have been at the forefront of the 

UK hotel scene for over a decade now. Widely celebrated 

for their laid-back ethos and distinctive sense of organic 

style, THE PIG offers guests a luxurious, yet unpretentious 

stay immersed in the bucolic British countryside, with 

plenty of delicious sustenance on offer. This same recipe 

for success (and the perfect weekend break) has now 

been applied to PIGs in Somerset, Southampton, Dorset, 

Devon, Kent, Cornwall and Sussex, but despite this 

impressive expansion, much of what was first sown in the 

New Forest way back when remains part of the glorious 

experience today; the walled garden, the Potting Shed 

Elizabethan manor, nestled in Devon’s green and pleasant 

Otter Valley. Its bedrooms are characteristically PIG, with 

rich and cosy fabrics, reclaimed textures and wood, rolltop 

baths, locally stocked ‘larders’ and each one totally 

unique. There are also three bountiful walled gardens, one 

home to an old stone folly, now a scenic spot designed for 

‘quaffing and troughing’, as is positively encouraged. 

“I always say that the hotels are like kids and that you 

can’t have a favourite, but there are certain ones that have 

particular significance. Brockenhurst was the first, so that 

makes it very special, and the last one you do is fresh in 

your mind, as you live it night and day for so long,” Robin 

explains. 

“But Bridge Place (in Kent) is very special – Judy, my 

wife, lived in the village of Bridge throughout her teenage 

years, so we knew that beautiful building very well.” 

Today, each hotel is undeniably shaped by the historic 

“ 

There are common elements to all the hotels – the restaurants follow a theme, 

but we allow the buildings themselves to dictate how we lay the rest out. We don’t 

fight the building; we allow it to give us the clues as to what we should do. 

” 

treatment rooms, roaring open fires, upcycled furniture, 

resident animals and the hotel’s highly acclaimed 25-mile 

menus, which use ingredients sourced from within a 25- 

mile radius alongside fresh, seasonal produce harvested 

from the kitchen garden. 

“We let the garden inform everything that we do, from 

the menu to the design and decor and so on. I want it to 

feel very natural, comfortable, friendly, not too designed, 

and somewhere you can put your feet up on the table if 

you want to and have fun,” Robin enthuses. 

Ingeniously, while retaining the unique formula of the 

first, each PIG also has its own distinct sense of identity. 

They share the same handwriting, but each one has its 

own unique signature. Because of this, most regular 

guests are known to have a favourite, from THE PIG-on 

the Beach, which overlooks the golden sands of Dorset's 

sweeping Studland Bay, to THE PIG-at Harlyn Bay in 

Cornwall, with its abundance of original features and 

indulgent outdoor dining hotspot, The Lobster Shed. 

I love THE PIG-at Coombe; a secluded, Grade-I-listed 

property that it inhabits. These grand old buildings are 

carefully hand-picked by Robin and Judy, who is also 

responsible for the group’s celebrated interior design. 

“We look at loads of properties all the time, and I get 

a gut feeling. Sometimes I don’t even get out of the car,” 

Robin laughs. 

“There are common elements to all the hotels – the 

restaurants follow a theme, but we allow the buildings 

themselves to dictate how we lay the rest out. We don’t 

fight the building; we allow it to give us the clues as to 

what we should do,” he explains. 

“And our design philosophy is very personal – Judy and 

I just choose stuff that we like. Our dining room table at 

home is always full of swatches and things, every surface is 

covered. It drives me nuts sometimes!” 

The couple’s latest transformation is THE PIG-in the 

South Downs, a beautiful old dower house tucked away 

near the ancient market town of Arundel in Sussex. 

Much to Robin’s delight, it is home to THE PIG’s very first 

vineyard. 


“It’s my train set,” he says, grinning from 

ear to ear. 

“Wine is a bit of a passion of mine, I 

am quite partial to the odd glass. So, it's 

very exciting. All the team are involved 

in the pruning and picking, and we’ve all 

adopted a row.” 

With Robin’s eyes firmly on the vines, it 

is son Ollie who oversees THE PIG’s allimportant 

kitchen gardens and has done 

ever since their conception. Robin's other 

son, tattoo artist Will, has also recently 

made his distinctive mark by creating 

striking treasure map-esque illustrations 

that feature in the hotel group’s brand-new 

book, THE PIG: 500 Miles of Food, Friends 

and Local Legends (see page 98). 

Released in May 2022, this lively and 

energetic coffee-table compendium 

celebrates the several counties that THE 

PIGs now call home, shining a spotlight 

on the unique produce and flavours 

associated with each one and the cast of 

characters that all play their part, from 

scallop divers and surfers to farmers and 

foragers. 

FIRST PAGE: ROBIN AND 

JUDY HUTSON. PREVIOUS 

PAGE CLOCKWISE FROM 

TOP: BEDROOM AT THE 

PIG-AT COMBE; WISTERIA 

AT THE PIG-NEAR BATH; 

RESIDENT PIGLETS; CHEFS 

FORAGING AT THE 

PIG-AT HARLYN BAY; 

PICTURED CLOCKWISE 

FROM LEFT: A MEAL 

AT THE LOBSTER SHED 

AT THE PIG-AT HARLYN 

BAY FRESH EGGS 

FOR BREAKFAST; THE 

VINEYARD AT THE PIG-IN 

THE SOUTH DOWNS; 

HERB GARDEN AT THE PIG- 

AT COMBE

“ 

For those who prefer glamping there are 

six brand-new shepherd huts, each with built-in stargazing roofs and wood 

fires. 

” 

“ 

[The vineyard] is [like] my train set. Wine is a bit of a passion of mine, I am 

quite partial to the odd glass. So, it’s very exciting. All the team are involved in 

the pruning and picking, and we’ve all adopted a row. 

” 

“We like to work with people that we like to work 

with, and I hope that comes through in the book. There 

are some very interesting, wonderful characters,” Robin 

explains affectionately. 

As well as mouth-watering recipes and some handy 

gardening tips, the book also provides a potted history 

of each remarkable building, and some truly riveting and 

often heart-warming stories and anecdotes of how Robin 

and Judy are connected to each one, making THE PIG feel 

even more personal than ever. 

“We’ve opened three new hotels since the last book 

(THE PIG: Tales and Recipes from the Kitchen Garden and 

Beyond), and I felt it was time for an update. I was proud of 

the first book, and I like it a lot, but I felt it was safe. It was 

a bit 'John Constable' for me. A bit sweet! I felt that there 

was more of a story to tell.” Indeed, there is. And how 

about the next chapter? Before we part ways I ask if there 

are plans afoot for further additions to the much-loved 

piggy litter? “Yep,” says Robin, smiling. “And there could 

be more vineyards too…” 


CELTIC ROUTES 

Discover the Celtic Spirit in West Wales and Ireland’s Ancient East 

You’ll find it in the land, the sea, and the sky. You’ll 

find it in the people, their languages, and their 

stories. And you’ll find it in the rivers, the trees, and 

the stones. But what is it? We call it the Celtic Spirit. 

It’s hard to describe, but if you travel to West Wales and Ireland’s 

Ancient East, it’s easy to discover. 

Recent years have been difficult for all of us. Now in 2022, 

we are ready to discover new places. And for many it’s about 

finding lands where we can feel closer to nature and history. 

Places to restore a sense of balance and harmony in this 

pressured and sometimes scary world. But there is no need to 

travel a long way to feel a million miles away from the everyday. 

Celtic Routes is a collection of authentic Celtic experiences. 

They offer fresh ideas and inspiration to discover the counties 

of Waterford, Wexford and Wicklow in South-East Ireland and 

Pembrokeshire, Ceredigion and Carmarthenshire in West Wales. 

Celtic Routes encourage visitors to go beyond tourism 

honeypots and take roads less travelled. In Wales, 

Pembrokeshire is a popular destination but it’s still possible to 

avoid the crowds and really get to know the county. In the Preseli 

Hills you can walk ancient tracks through captivating prehistoric 

landscapes – it’s known in Welsh as Gwlad Hud a Lledrith, 

meaning ‘Land of Magic and Enchantment’. If you visit Pentre 

Ifan Burial Chamber, particularly at dawn or dusk, you really 


‘ 

There is no need to travel a long 

way to feel a million miles away from 

the everyday... Celtic Routes encourage 

visitors to go beyond tourism honeypots 

and take roads less travelled. 

’ 


have a sense of time of place. The hustle and bustle of modern 

life will feel a world away. 

North Pembrokeshire shares many characteristics with 

Ceredigion, its neighbour to the north. A dramatic and beautiful 

coastline, wild and wonderful uplands and a strong Welsh 

culture. Visitors to Ceredigion who decide to leave the coast 

and head for hills will be rewarded with an area of astounding 

natural beauty, otherwise known as the Cambrian Mountains. 

Here you will feel close to the land as you tread in the footsteps 

of ancient pilgrims enroute to ruined Strata Florida Abbey. And 

as you enjoy the tranquillity of the Teifi pools, you are more 

likely to hear skylarks and the whistling call of Red Kites soaring 

above, rather than the constant hum of traffic. 

Carmarthenshire is farming country. Agriculture has 

always been important, so you’ll find plenty of places serving 

food and drink from the area, locally sourced, prepared 

with care and presented with passion. Towns in the county 

are blossoming, alive with independent shops and full of 

products and stories connected to the county. You can also 

find your lunch in the wild. On a foraging experience along the 

Carmarthenshire coastline, you’ll learn how to find prawns, 

mussels, cockles, wild samphire, sea anemones and scarlet elf 

cup mushrooms. The reward for your efforts is your very own 

zero-waste, organic lunch on the beach. 

Southeast Ireland is less visited than some other parts. 

But a visit to Ireland is not complete without venturing to this 

corner known as Ireland’s Ancient East. 

Visitors to Dublin can head to the nearby Wicklow 

mountains to get a real sense of being in the “Emerald Isle”. In 

the foothills lies scenic Blessington Lakes. As well as being the 

main source of drinking water for Dublin, it’s a popular base 

for water-based activities like fishing, boating and kayaking. 

You can walk or cycle the Blessington Greenway along the 

lakeshore and into natural woodland. Or drive the 26km 

route around the valley. Novelist and poet Brendan Behan 

described his trip to the area as a ‘journey to the jewel of 

Wicklow’. 

Perched on a green hill overlooking the River Bann in north 

Wexford is a special place. Ferns is special because here, the 

many strands of ancient stories which shape modern Ireland, 

come together. In this Ancient Capital of Leinster, you can 

trace the steps of Saints, Celts, Vikings, and Normans who 

have all influenced the nation we know today. Stay in nearby 

Enniscorthy and visit the castle which has played a key role in 

Irelands turbulent history. 

Waterford is Ireland’s oldest city and has attracted visited 

for 1000’s of years. In 914 a fleet of Viking ships landed in 

what is now Waterford City. They settled, forged alliances and 

established trading routes and became an important part of 

Ireland’s story. If you join The Epic Tour of the Viking Triangle, 

you’ll discover six national monuments that date from 1190 

AD to 1783. This is a wonderful way for visitors to get an 

overview of Irish history in Waterford. ◆ 

If you are planning on visiting Ireland or Wales in 2022, 

make sure you take a Celtic Route and truly discover the Celtic 

Spirit; celticroutes.info 


WIN! 

PRIDE of BRITAIN 

Enter our competition to win one of four indulgent 

Champagne afternoon teas for two at a luxury hotel 

In a year that celebrates Her Majesty becoming the 

first British Monarch to reach the Platinum Jubilee 

milestone of 70 years of service, there is even more 

reason to indulge in a spot of tea or raise your 

Champagne glass – and there is nothing quite like sitting 

down for afternoon tea: the warming tea blends, sweet 

and savoury treats. 

British Travel Journal has teamed up with Pride of Britain 

Hotels to offer you the opportunity to win one of four 

Champagne afternoon teas in a luxury hotel with 

glorious gardens. 

Our fortunate winners will be hosted in one of four 

gorgeous hotel settings: Mediterranean-inspired luxury 

hideaway Feversham Arms in North Yorkshire; four acres 


of English cottage garden at The Priory, 

on the banks of the River Frome in Dorset; 

the romantic restored 17th-century parterre, 

lily pond and rose gardens of Bodysgallen 

in North Wales; or the secluded three-acre 

rose garden of Bedford Lodge Hotel & Spa 

in Newmarket, while looking out to one of 

the world’s most famous racecourse and 

stables. 

Enjoy the tradition of Afternoon Tea at 

The Priory, served in the relaxed comfort of 

either The John Turner Restaurant or on The 

River Terrace in the summertime. Afternoon 

tea here includes a selection of traditional 

finger sandwiches; delicious home-made 

cakes, and scones, jam and clotted cream, 

served with a pot of your choice of Hoogly 

Tea blend. At Bodysgallen, afternoon tea is 

served in their oak-panelled hall, library or 

drawing room, or on warm summer days 

outside on the terrace. 

Bodysgallen’s Traditional Afternoon 

Tea includes a selection of finger 

sandwiches, freshly baked scones with 

clotted cream and strawberry jam, cakes 

and pastries and a choice of freshly 

brewed teas. Afternoon tea at Bedford 

Lodge Hotel & Spa, popularised by their 

very own Anna Maria, The Duchess of 

Bedford, is served daily and can be taken 

in Squires Restaurant, Roxana Bar, or on 

the sun terrace overlooking the stunning 

lawns and rose gardens at the hotel – the 

choice is yours. ◆ 

H O W T O E N T E R 

ON OUR WEBSITE 

britishtraveljournal.com 

Pride of Britain Hotels is a 

collection made up of the finest 

properties; each one unique and 

characterful. With manor homes, 

castles, woodland retreats, 

elegant lodges and city boltholes 

on offer, there is a special experience 

awaiting every guest. Experience 

the best places to eat, stay and 

unwind within the British Isles. 

Last entries August 31 2022. 

Prize is to be taken before 20 

December 2022. 



CREAM 

OF THE 

CROP 

From artisanal ices and locally churned velvety 

scoops to family recipes dating back decades, Britain’s 

top independent ice cream and gelato makers provide 

the perfect accompaniment to a long, hot summer 

Text by Chantal Borciani 

Swoon 

Traditional gelato is said to be smoother, 

creamier and carries less fat content 

than ice cream. At Swoon it's made from 

scratch and churned fresh using Somerset 

milk. Set up by the latest generation in 

a family of gelato makers going back 

120 years, the first Swoon store opened 

its doors on College Green in Bristol in 

2016. The family-run company now has 

outposts in Bath, Oxford, Selfridge’s in 

London and will be opening its newest 

swish set-up in Cardiff this summer. 

Ingredients such as lemons, hazelnuts 

and pistachio are sourced direct from Italy, 

and Swoon offers ten traditional flavours 

and six monthly changing seasonal 

varieties, alongside a selection of gelato 

cakes and artisan coffee from Naples. 


Flavours on offer include pistachio, dark chocolate 

sorbetto (vegan) and Bacio (chocolate and hazelnut) with 

a selection of dairy free and vegan sorbetto options. 

Visit: We love the decor and vibe of the Swoon store in 

Bristol for an eat-in parlour experience but if you prefer 

to head out into the sunshine with a towering cone, take 

a rug and relax on College Green overlooking Bristol 

Cathedral or pile a tub high and chill out in Bath’s Green 

Park overlooking the Avon. 

Stay: The Aspiring Cook is the newest addition to a clutch 

of luxury self-catering boltholes in Bath renovated by The 

Curated Collection. A short walk from the city centre, 

this cosy flat is perfect for a couple and sits among a 

handsome row of classic Georgian terrace houses, built 

around 1790 by Thomas Baldwin. 

thecuratedcollection.co.uk 

Visit: While it seems churlish to not enjoy at least one 

scoop on Brighton’s famous pebble beach, why not also 

take a picnic out of town and head for the Devil’s Dyke, 

a 100-metre-deep V-shaped valley on the South Downs 

laced with beautiful walking trails offering incredible views 

of the Sussex countryside. 

Stay: The Garden Room sleeps two and is set at the foot 

of the South Downs – meaning guests can enjoy the best 

of countryside and coast in one vacation. Exquisitely 

appointed, the romantic hideaway features a secluded 

garden complete with hot tub. 

ruralretreats.co.uk 

Boho Gelato 

Boho Gelato has been producing Italian-style ice cream, 

sorbet and vegan gelato on site in Brighton for 12 years. 

Gelatiere Seb Cole and his team use Sussex-produced milk 

and cream as well as ingredients from around the world 

(such as Sicilian DOP Bronte pistachio and Indian alfonso 

mangoes) to make 24 ever-changing flavours daily. All 

flavours are suitable for vegetarians and Boho also offers a 

selection of gluten-free and vegan scoops. 

Now with outposts in Weymouth and Worthing, the 

award-winning gelato producer has created more than 500 

flavours over the years. Some cool new additions include 

malted miso choc nougat, coconut cocoa nib, strawberry, 

basil and black pepper, and hazelnut custard pie. 

Treleavens 

Having started as a small enterprise in Looe, Cornwall, 

Treleavens ice cream is now made in a custom-built 

premises on Tretoil Farm in the north Cornish countryside. 

Keeping things local is still key – all of Treleavens’ dairy 

ice creams have a base of Rodda’s clotted cream and 

ingredients are sourced locally as much as possible, 

including Cornish sea salt for its moreish salted caramel 

ice cream. Treleavens dairy ice creams are made with 

Trewithen Dairy milk – sourced from 25 farms within 25 

miles. The award-winning ice cream maker has around 50 

flavours in total with a few new vegan flavours launched 

recently, including mint choc chip, Biscoff, salted caramel 

and raspberry ripple. Small theatre tubs of vegan vanilla 

and a vegan chocolate are also available. 

Visit: St Ives Coffee and Ice Cream nestled in the pictureperfect 

Cornish harbour town incorporates Treleavens’ ice 

cream into milkshakes, crepes, and epic sundaes. 


Or hit the surf off Watergate Bay and head shoreside to 

the coastal bolthole hotel for an ice cream. 

Stay: Molesworth Manor is an exquisitely restored 17thcentury 

manor house just a short walk from Padstow on 

the north Cornwall coast. Sleeping 14 guests in seven ensuite 

bedrooms, this Cornish hideaway is complete with a 

games room, a garden room, a banqueting hall, two cedar 

clad six-seater hot tubs and a cinema room – perfect for a 

film and your favourite scoops. 

cornishgems.com 

Baboo Gelato 

Baboo Gelato was set up in 2015 by Annie Hanbury, a 

trained gelatiere, who wanted to combine her passion for 

ice cream with the glut of fabulous ripe fruit she found 

at her new home’s overflowing and abandoned market 

garden near the Dorset town of Bridport. Today, Baboo’s 

artisanal gelato is still handmade using fresh, seasonal 

fruit and local organic milk. A lot of the fruit is still sourced 

locally, whether it is plums from North Perrott Fruit Farm, 

pears from Ellwell Farm, elderflowers from the local 

hedgerows, or gooseberries from Forde Abbey. 

The artisanal gelato comes in scoops, tubs, or chocolatecoated 

ice cream ‘Baboos’ bites. All Baboo ice creams are 

suitable for vegetarians and all its sorbets are suitable for 

vegans. Visitors can head to the Baboo Gelato kiosks in 

West Bay, Weymouth, Morcombelake and Lyme Regis. 

Doggy Doggy Yum Yum 

Baboo’s fabulous doggy offshoot is its Doggy Doggy Yum 

Yum – a frozen treat made with bananas, coconut yogurt, 

agave syrup and 100% peanut butter. 

Made for dogs who want a cool treat in the summer 

heat, Doggy Doggy Yum Yum is 100% organic and uses 

no artificial flavours or refined sugars. It is also suitable for 

vegetarian and vegan pups. 


Visit: Ice cream lovers can head to the Baboo Gelato 

kiosks in West Bay, Weymouth, Morcombelake and Lyme 

Regis, with their canine pals in tow of course. 

Don’t miss a spot of fossil hunting at Monmouth 

beach (particularly for ammonites), and East Cliff beach 

between Lyme Regis and Charmouth. 

Stay: The Beach House is perfectly located for exploring 

the Jurassic coastline and has been renovated with 

a sublime coastal palette running through the guest 

areas. The captivating family homestay sleeps four and 

sits between Lyme Bay and West Bay – ideal for beach 

hopping. 


New Forest Ice Cream 

Born and bred in the New Forest and a family-run business 

to this day, New Forest Ice Cream was founded over 

36 years ago, with the velvety ice cream now sold to 

restaurants, pubs, cafés and kiosks across the UK and 

beyond. Of course, you can’t venture far in Hampshire’s 

spectacular New Forest without seeing a sign for its velvety 

ice cream. Since 2012, New Forest Ice Cream has received 

at least one new gold star for a product every year in the 

prestigious Great Taste Awards, with a total of 17 product 

awards to date. Winners include the company’s vanilla ice 

cream, liquorice ice cream and sambuca sorbet. 

Visit: A stone’s throw from New Forest Ice Cream’s HQ, 

the bunting-lined harbour town of Lymington has cobbled 

streets, a pretty quayside and a breakwater walking trail 


with far-reaching views across the Solent. The town is also 

home to a host of ice cream parlours and cafes, selling 

locally churned New Forest Ice Cream. 

Stay: The sublimely romantic Undercastle Cottage in 

the heart of the New Forest has magnificent views with 

gardens that gently roll down to the river's edge. 

The three-bedroom oak-framed cottage is also home to 

half a mile of exclusive private fishing. 


Rossi’s 

Weymouth’s Rossi’s Ice Cream was established in 1937 by 

Fioravanti Figliolini and is currently run by his grandson 

Fulvio Figliolini. All the ice cream is still handmade using 

the same traditional method and uses the same closely 

guarded family recipe. 

Rossi’s doesn’t use vanilla of any kind – saying that 

its natural ice cream creates its own flavour while being 

cooked. Other flavours include chocolate, coffee, banana, 

peppermint & dark chocolate, mango, and more. 

In addition to tubs, cones, and sundaes, Rossi’s serves 

up pancakes, waffles and cream teas and is a fantastic 

spot right on Weymouth’s Western Esplanade. 

Visit: Weymouth beach is literally on Rossi’s doorstep 

while the famed Chesil Beach lies around the headland. 


DON’T MISS 

Against the backdrop 

of a renowned collection 

Rossetti’s experience Portraits 

critically acclaimed 

until exhibitions 

9 January of 

2022 

historical and 

The contemporary Tudors: Passion, art, lectures, Power 

& concerts, Politics 

workshops and 

28 events January or indulge to 8 May in 2022 

our 

Garden Café. 

2019 HIGHLIGHTS 

George Shaw 

A Corner of a Foreign Field 

Against the backdrop 

of a renowned Édouard Vuillard collection 

experience The Poetry critically of the Everyday acclaimed 

exhibitions Lauren of Child historical and 

The Art of Illustration 

contemporary art, lectures, 

Rembrandt 

concerts, workshops and 

A Life in Print 

events or indulge in our 

Garden Café. 

Henri Matisse 

Master of Line 

in our 

ps and 

, lectures, 

rical and 

y acclaimed 

Great Pulteney George Street, Shaw 

Bath BA2 4DB 

www.holburne.org A Corner of a Foreign Field 

2019 HIGHLIGHTS 

Édouard Vuillard 

The Poetry of the Everyday 

Lauren Child 

The Art of Illustration 

Rembrandt 

A Life in Print 

Henri Matisse 

Master of Line 

Great Pulteney Street, Bath BA2 4DB 

www.holburne.org 

Biscuit-themed Events, Exhibitions and more: 

VISIT-READING.COM/BISCUITTOWN 

Official Travel Partner

For a quieter day out head for the captivating water-lily 

ponds, adorned gazebos and Monet-style bridges of the 

eight-acre Bennetts Water Gardens. 

Stay: A spectacular barn conversion ensconced in the Dorset 

countryside, Merry Hill Barn is a wonderful jumping-off point 

to explore the Jurassic coast – well positioned for Weymouth, 

Chesil Beach and West Bay and features exposed stone 

walls, original beams and contemporary flair. 

ruralretreats.co.uk 

Ruby Violet 

What started as a culinary passion project has grown to a 

famed London ice cream name with a devoted following. 

Named after her maternal grandmother – who loved a 

choc ice – Julie Fisher started Ruby Violet from her kitchen. 

Currently the capital is home to just one Ruby Violet 

parlour, in King’s Cross – though there are plans for it to 

reopen a second in North London. 

Visit: Head to Ruby Violet’s King’s Cross parlour for its 

unique afternoon tea experience. Alongside savoury 

treats, the menu serves up an array of tasty morsels 

including mini Genovese sponge ice cream sandwiches, 

Belgian chocolate shells, raspberry rosewater and 

Prosecco lollipops, rounded off with a three-tiered ice 

cream cake and ice cream chocolates. 

Stay: Put your feet up just around the corner at one of 

London’s most recognisable hotels. 

St Pancras Renaissance Hotel originally opened in 1873 

and following its extensive renovation now marries historic 

finery with modern luxury. 



MEET 

THE 

CHEF 

Sustainable cooking has never looked – or tasted 

– this good. We speak to chef Adam Handling on 

taking eco to new heights in Cornwall's Carbis Bay 

and catering for presidents and prime ministers 

Text by Chantal Borciani 

Winding down the hill towards Carbis Bay Hotel & Estate, it’s 

hard to picture a more perfect Cornish setting. The emerald 

bay, glinting in warm shimmering sunshine, dominates the 

vista as the horizon reveals itself like blue-green pages of a 

book falling open. The steep valley sides are dotted with white-washed homes 

and verdant foliage and Carbis Bay Hotel & Estate sits snug right in the 

centre of this cosiest of Cornish nooks. 

A presidential enclave 

Privacy is one of the hotel’s calling cards, not least because the luxury coastal 

boutique hotel hosted the2021 G7 Summit. The presidential motorcades were 

quite the sight as they rumbled into the quiet Cornish hamlet last summer yet 

it’s easy to see why the estate was selected as the venue to showcase to the 

world the beauty of Cornwall. 

We, like Macron, Merkel, Johnson and friends, stayed in the extraordinary 

beachfront lodges. The chic, neutral-toned desirable residences wisely makes 

the most of the sea views at every opportunity, spanning three sweeping 

floors. The hot tubs and roof terraces overlook the surf, and spiral stone 

staircases lead down to sumptuous bedrooms where you can laze and 


“ 

When you walk into the restaurant, you have that 

view, which is a million dollars,” says Adam. “I don’t 

think there’s a more beautiful place in the world. 

” 

listen to the waves from your bed. A capacious open-plan living space with full 

kitchen, a fireplace, a grand dining table, and a private garden leads down to the 

butter-coloured sand. While the main hotel building has a traditional luxurious 

appeal, and was built by celebrated Cornish architect Silvanus Trevail, the newly 

built lodges are more modern-Scandinavian in style than seaside bolthole, offering 

exclusive living with only the best roll-top baths and sea views. High-quality natural 

materials used throughout lend a soothing quality to the swoon-worthy decor. 

The spectacular living room features floor-to-ceiling sliding doors so, from sunrise 

to sunset, the captivating light from the water fills the space. Light again cascades 

into the bedrooms where yet more floor-to-ceiling glass frames the uninterrupted 

sea view. Two of our three bedrooms feature a wide connecting balcony, bringing 

the picturesque shore even closer. The balcony proved a perfect spot for a morning 

coffee overlooking the rolling waves. A lodge concierge is on hand for everything – 

aperitifs and signature canapes at sundown, bountiful breakfast hampers served at 

a time of your choice with the finest of Cornish ingredients and oven-warm bread, 

dinner reservations and turn-down services. 

New beginnings 

Alongside the hamlet of Carbis Bay’s luxury beach lodges, and just steps from the 

main house, is the Ugly Butterfly. The new restaurant on the estate is the brainchild 

of revered chef, Adam Handling. Ugly Butterfly opened in August 2021 and sits 

elevated above the beach with uninterrupted views of the ocean so breathtaking 

that walking in feels like a cinematic experience in itself. Full-height windows 

run the entire length of the vast restaurant and bar space, filling the view to the 

metaphorical brim with sand, sea, surf and sky. This is one restaurant to book for 

lunch or an early dinner so your jaw can suitably drop. 

“When you walk into the restaurant, you have that view, which is a million 

dollars,” says Adam. “I don’t think there’s a more beautiful place in the world.” 

Ugly Butterfly embodies three crucial elements for Adam: sustainable, local and 

luxurious. The restaurant focus on sustainability means using every ingredient, 

creating food that is both artistic and theatrical. “We only use items sourced in 

Cornwall. We hope to look after and work with the locals, because if it isn’t in 

Cornwall we aren’t using it.” 

Adam says he strives to make menus that are delectable and the highest culinary 

experience, in spite of them being zero-waste. 


“I love luxury. I love to eat really good food. And I like to drink 

really good wine. And I like to know that I'm doing something good 

for the environment and good for the planet. But lazy chefs just put 

fermented food on everything and call it sustainable, because all 

they know how to do is ferment it.” 

During the G7, Adam and his team oversaw all the presidential 

requests, including private lunches and breakfasts for the delegates. 

“It's always exciting, it's always nerve-wracking, it's always scary. 

But it was great to be able to showcase that sustainable can be 

luxurious,” he says. 

“I wanted to utilise as much zero-waste as possible, but in a way 

where it's still luxury enough and tasty enough to serve to world 

leaders. Sitting down and speaking to the leaders about that sort of 

stuff, and them enjoying it was really quite really special.” 


Hero of zero 

Ugly Butterfly is Adam’s newest restaurant, he also has Frog in Covent Garden and 

The Loch & The Tyne in Windsor. “We lost four restaurants in the group during the 

lockdown,” Adam continues. “When it came to reopening, I went down a different 

route. Everyone with a passion thinks they're invincible but nowadays, learning from 

the mistakes of the past, we said instead of opening a lot of restaurants quickly, we're 

just going to strip it back. I want each of my restaurants to have its own identity, 

rather than having a number two of a number one restaurant.” 

“I don't want people to think, ‘oh, he just put his name on another luxury property 

and popped off’. I have a house in Cornwall and a house in London and I split my 

time 50/50. We spent months finding the right Cornish suppliers. This isn’t just a 

concept, it’s years of experimenting coming to the fore.” 

The chef’s favourite dish on the menu is the ‘lobster, beef fat’, a dish that hails 

from another of Adam’s restaurants. “Many years ago, I bought a whole Wagyu cow 

from Highland Wagyu in Scotland. This dish was created because these 1,300 kilo 

animals have a lot of fat and one of the challenges was what we could do to utilise all 

the fat.” 

The solution was to use the Wagyu fat to cook the fresh lobster. “Here, we now 

use a Cornish dairy that’s around five minutes from the doorstep.” The lobsters, we 

are told by our excellent waiter, are caught under the lighthouse we can see in the 

distance through the window of the restaurant. 


“ 

I don't want 

people to 

think, ‘oh, 

he just put 

his name 

on another 

luxury 

property and 

popped off. 

” 

“It's just really wonderful to build up such a 

relationship with suppliers, a stone's throw away from 

the restaurant door, and use wonderful things from 

what they're doing in imaginative ways that they 

hadn't thought of doing either. 

So you excite both the supplier, the chef, and 

fundamentally of course you excite the guests, because 

they feel like ‘this is so cool’. But it's cool in a way where 

you’re actually having a great experience. It doesn't 

taste like garbage, and it's been sustainable. 


“ 

People think I'm a 

bit bizarre because 

I'm a chef yet I'm 

more front-of-house 

focused because, for 

me, it's all about how 

a guest is made to 

feel as soon as they 

walk in this place. 

” 

And I say that doesn't taste like garbage quite literally, 

because I can't stand bowls of fermented foods. I 

understand it's zero-waste but when I'm spending a lot of 

money, I want a delicious mouth-watering meal. I don't 

want to just be eating sour fermented stuff because it's 

saving the planet, I still need the experience, I still want the 

luxury.” 

We can attest that nothing tastes dodgy or sour at the 

Ugly Butterfly. Fresh, local and zero-waste – the philosophy 

runs deep and works – even the fantastical cocktail menu 

features takes on classics but uses ‘waste’ from the kitchen: 

herbs, shrubs, peels and ingredients that infuse and produce 

the most wonderful distillates and flavours. 

Luxury and connections 

The food is also a spectacular journey full of real standout 

moments. The ‘snacks’ – a table laden with achingly 

pretty and elegantly precise dishes is a triumph and sets 

the bar exceedingly high for the tasting menu proper, 

featuring tastes Adam loves, including a crisp duck and 

plum sauce, a flavour bomb cheese doughnut, and a 

punchy beef and kimchi roll. 

The tasting menu is one of a kind – if you’re going 

to invest in a special meal, this is where ours would be. 

The execution is elevated and intricate, while the food is 

unpretentious and delicious. The ‘Bread, chicken butter’ 

dish is inspired by Adam’s fussy eater sister resolving only 

ever to eat roast chicken for Sunday lunch when they were 

kids. 

The deliciously salty bowls of yellow butter topped with 

crispy chicken skin and IPA-infused sourdough arrives 

with a note that reads: ‘But Mondays were my favourite. 

Leftover chicken in a white floury Scottish bap with loads 

of salty butter. This is my take on the happy memories of 

that Monday morning roast chicken sandwich.’ 

Cornish crab with apple and jasmine is the prettiest 

plate – light and with a taste of both the sea and Cornish 

orchards tangy Victoria plum, beetroot and luxuriant 

English truffle accompanies salt-aged duck with crisp 

skin; while playful heart-shaped waffles top local salmon 

and sturgeon. 

“Nostalgia, relatability, connection with dishes – it’s so 

important,” says Adam. “I think the way that you're made 

to feel in a restaurant is equally as important as how the 

food tastes. If you have great food somewhere but you’re 

treated like dirt, it’s never going to be a good experience. 

I want the diners to have a very one-to-one intimate 

experience at the Ugly Butterfly. For it to be memorable. 

People think I'm a bit bizarre because I'm a chef yet I'm 

more front-of-house focused because, for me, it's all about 

how a guest is made to feel as soon as they walk in this 

place.” Fortunately, it’s clear his team are imbued with the 

same passion and ethos, keenly sharing titbits of Adam’s 

stories, menu revelations and details of the ingredients 


FIRST PAGE: ADAM HANDLING. 

SECOND PAGE FROM TOP: 

ADAM HANDLING WITH HEAD 

CHEF JAMIE PARK; BEACH 

LODGE. PREVIOUS PAGE 

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: 

SEAFOOD PLATTER FROM 

THE BEACH CLUB; CHICKEN 

& CHIPS, COURGETTE, BASIL; 

SMOKED COD; BEEF AND 

KIMCHI; SPA AND OUTDOOR 

POOL; CORNISH CRAB TART; 

DISPLAY OF DISHES INCLUDING 

CRAB CORONATION, CHEESE 

DOUGHNUTS AND MORE; 

PICTURED LEFT TO RIGHT: THE 

UGLY BUTTERFLY BAR; THE 

UGLY BUTTERFLY DINING 

without it being forced, laboured or overbearing. 

Following a belt-busting meal, the hotel has a host of relaxing offerings for 

guests to enjoy. A beautiful seafront orangery and patio is perfect for morning 

coffees and afternoon teas, while the hotel’s C-Bay Spa is recently renovated and 

features a spine-soothing infinity pool and open air Jacuzzi, with tiered decking 

offering private hideouts from which to drink in the glorious views. 

The South West Coast Path passes across the hotel grounds – ideal for avid 

walkers. St Ives, with its mix of tea shops, galleries and shops, is an easy mile 

and a half (2.5km) hike along the breathtaking hills or eight minutes by the 

equally charming branch-line train that chugs into the Carbis Bay station just 

up the hill from the hotel. 

All told, for a slice of Cornwall and one of the most innovative restaurants in 

Britain to date, Carbis Bay is a perfect seafront escape. 


WALKING TOUR IN THE CITY OF... 

Bristol 

From the imposing heights of 

Clifton Gorge down to this city's lovely 

reclaimed harbours, Bristol is a beautiful 

Georgian port full of energy and colour. 

Join us for a stroll around its streets 

Text by Adrian Mourby | Illustrations by Sophie Minto 

of 19th-century buildings that gaze out at the bridge. First 

comes the old Clifton Rock Railway, a funicular that used 

to drop tourists down to the Hotwells volcanic springs 

on the banks of the River Avon. Next is the Avon Gorge 

Hotel, which opened in 1896 as the Grand Clifton Spa and 

Hydropathic Institution, using water pumped up from those 

wells to provide an efficacious Turkish bath for guests. 

START IN ONE of England’s grandest suburbs at 

the Clifton Observatory, a former windmill that 

was converted into a camera obscura in 1828. 

From here, there are impressive views across the 

Avon Gorge (300 feet deep at this point) and of 

Brunel’s Clifton Suspension Bridge that has spanned it since 

1864. Taking the path down Sion Hill, you pass a complex 

These buildings form one end of a 19th-century terrace 

that was intended to rival Bath’s Royal Crescent. It was 

named Prince’s Buildings but was left incomplete. Today, 

single-storey extensions fill the gaps between grand town 

houses. 


One of them displays a coat of arms depicting St 

George killing a dragon under the Prince of Wales’ feathers, 

confirming that the prince in question was indeed the Prince 

Regent, England’s future George IV. 

At the end of Prince’s Buildings on the right-hand side 

there is a lovely crescent, almost hidden from passers-by. 

It’s known as The Paragon and, like many houses in Clifton, 

it enjoys wonderful views across Bristol and its harbours. 

This row of houses is also remarkable for its unusual semicircular 

vestibules with their different coloured doors. It was 

‘ 

At the end of Prince’s Buildings on the 

right-hand side there is a lovely crescent, 

almost hidden from passers-by. 

’ 

constructed between 1809–1814 during the Napoleonic 

Wars. The builder John Drew went bankrupt halfway 

through the project, something that happened to many 

speculators in those turbulent times. 

The same fate befell the builder of Royal York Terrace, 

which branches off from the left-hand side of Prince’s 

Buildings. Begun in 1791 as the longest terrace in Europe, 

this graceful stretch of Regency town houses was designed 

by Bristol architect William Paty and stands on a huge 

plinth that had to be constructed first to mitigate against 

the steep slopes of Clifton. Only completed in 1820, Royal 

York Terrace was where novelist Angela Carter lived (at No 

38) during the Swinging Sixties. 

At the end of this terrace turn right into Regent Street, 

where Victorian Bristol suddenly appears in a series of 

closely packed Clifton shops. When they end, at Clifton 


WHERE TO STAY 

AVON GORGE BY HOTEL DU VIN 

– 

High above the Avon Gorge stands this 78-bedroom hotel with 

the best views of Clifton’s Suspension Bridge from its dining room. 

Opened in 1896, the Avon Gorge is now run by Hotel du Vin, 

which means that the interiors have the HdV signature features 

we’ve come to love: dark walls with bright downlighters, moody 

bedrooms with white-tiled bathrooms and lots of irreverent art. 

hotelduvin.com 

MARRIOTT ROYAL HOTEL 

– 

Bristol’s grandest 19th-century hotel opened in 1868 on College 

Green, overlooking the Floating Harbour. For many years, the 

Royal was hotel of choice for visiting celebrities like Laurel and 

Hardy, Gracie Fields, Winston Churchill and Cary Grant. Closed 

for decades, the hotel only recently reopened with its original 

Palm Court majestically restored. A four-storey car park dug into 

the ground beneath the property is one of the many 

modern conveniences of this 241-room hotel. 

marriott.com 

THE BERKELEY SQUARE HOTEL 

– 

In a dignified square between Cabot Tower and Bristol University’s 

Wills Building stands the Berkeley Square Hotel, an amalgam of two 

Georgian town houses that was once the home of Sir Frank Wills, 

the man whose family endowed so much of the university. It’s a lively, 

modern hotel with a commitment to modern art and a kitchen that 

serves excellent food. Leave your windows open at night and you’ll 

hear 'Big George' tolling in the university's bell tower. 

cliftonhotels.com 

 

 

WHERE TO EAT 

FISHERS RESTAURANT 

– 

Fishers is a Clifton original, founded by Alison Brown in 2001. 

If you like fish and seafood, head here for an unforgettable meal. 

From the outside, it’s a small, unremarkable whitewashed building 

with blue awnings. Inside it’s low-key too, with small tables and 

some touches of nautical decor but superb food and wine. 

If you fancy a picnic ask about the Fishers’ Champagne & 

Oyster Hamper Box (£59). 

fishers-restaurant.com 

AQUA 

– 

High up on Whiteladies Road and down on the quayside at Welsh 

Back are two outlets of this family-run mini-chain of cheery West 

Country restaurants. Aqua was founded in 1998 by Richard 

Smithson and is now run by his son, Ben. Monday to Friday there 

is a great three-course lunch menu for £18 that extends till 7pm – 

ideal if you are catching a show. There are also two-for-one 

Bellinis available from 12pm till 7pm. 

aqua-restaurant.com 

COPPA CLUB CLIFTON VILLAGE 

– 

Taking over an old Clifton department store, the Coppa Club's 

huge plate-glass windows look out on to Regent Street while inside 

a modern mezzanine floor has comfortable sofas for sitting with 

your laptop. The Coppa ethos is to combine a bar, a restaurant, a 

workspace, and café in one welcoming space. The all-day menu 

focuses on uncomplicated dishes, from Coppa Vegan Burger to 

Lamb Rump and Flash Steaks plus excellent cocktails. 

coppaclub.co.uk/clifton 

 


Road, the street curves east with Cabot Tower in the far 

distance. Bristol consists of a number of hills of which 

Clifton is the tallest. Cabot Tower, which commemorates 

John Cabot’s journey to Canada from Bristol in 1497, stands 

across a valley on nearby Brandon Hill. To get to it from 

Clifton it’s necessary to walk down Constitution Hill – one of 

the steepest in the city – to cross Jacob’s Well Road and then 

climb up through Brandon Park. 

Georgian House Museum. It was built in 1790 for a sugar 

merchant and plantation owner in the West Indies. Many 

believe that it was here that the poets William Wordsworth 

and Samuel Taylor Coleridge first met in 1795. 

From Great George Street turn right down Whiteladies 

Road, another steep hill where no two shops have rooflines 

at the same height. The road gets its name from the White 

Ladies public house that once stood on this major route 

between Clifton and Bristol docks. Look left up the hill and 

you’ll see the monumental bell tower of Bristol University, 

completed in 1925. It’s 223 feet high and was the last neo- 

Gothic structure erected in Britain. Walking downhill to the 

right brings you to College Green and Bristol’s Cathedral. 

But first at the top of Constitution Hill stands Goldney 

Hall, which was built in the 1860s by a Quaker family who, 

among other ventures, financed the voyage that rescued 

Alexander Selkirk (the original Robinson Crusoe) from his 

desert island. Starting down the hill, there’s a sprinkling of 

pretty 18th-century cottages that reflect how rural Clifton 

was before the Regency building spree. 

On the other side of busy Jacob’s Well Road, Brandon 

Hill has been kept as a large, inner-city nature reserve. It’s 

topped by Cabot Tower, a 105-foot monument built in 1897 

with panoramic views from its Venetian-style balcony. After 

visiting, leave the park by walking down Charlotte Street to 

Great George Street, which contains some very imposing 

houses from the reign of George III. One of these is now the 

Because it was successively built, destroyed, and rebuilt 

from Norman times right up until the Bristol Blitz of 1942, 

this cathedral seems to contain every style and period of 

English architecture, although it was all cleverly knitted 

together in the 19th century. 

Take a while to look inside. It’s a perfect place to rest 

your feet after all those hills. 

Next Issue: We take a walk around the medieval walls of York, 

a city that combines Roman, Viking and Georgian architecture 

with one of the most beautiful cathedrals in Britain. 



Hidden London Tours 

Are you bored of visiting the same old places on days 

out? Are you on the hunt to explore somewhere new? 

If so, why not take a look at the Hidden London tour 

programme run by London Transport Museum 

Hidden London tours are 

a fascinating collection 

of tours run by London 

Transport Museum giving 

guests exclusive access to disused and 

abandoned Tube stations and sites 

across the London Underground. Many 

people are unaware that behind many 

inconspicuous doors and vents there are 

often secret passageways and tunnels 

from bygone eras just waiting to be 

explored with the Museum’s expert team. 

Many of these unique sites have 

remained untouched for decades. Down 

Street station, situated between Hyde 

Park Corner and Green Park stations, 

had a short life a as working station from 

1907 to 1932. 

However, it became critical to winning 

the Second World War when it was 

covertly transformed into the Railway 

Executive Committee’s bomb-proof 

headquarters where Prime Minister 

Winston Churchill secretly took refuge 

during the height of the Blitz. 

Think you’re familiar with Charing 

Cross station? Think again. On a Hidden 

London tour, you can go behind the 

scenes to see exclusive disused areas 

of the station normally off-limits to 


the public, including the chance to walk 

underneath Trafalgar Square! As part of 

a tour, you will get to explore the Jubilee 

line platforms at Charing Cross that 

have been closed to the public since 1999 

which are now frequently used for filming 

purposes, including blockbuster movies 

such as Skyfall and Paddington Bear. 

Other tour locations include Aldwych, 

Clapham South, Euston, Moorgate and 

Piccadilly Circus stations and Kingsway 

Tram Tunnel. Each group has a limited 

number of people per tour so you will get 

to see these spaces without the crowds. 

Tours are lead by the Museum's expert 

guides telling you all you want to know 

about the history and design used to 

create these iconic spaces. 

As well as in-person tours, London 

Transport Museum runs a variety of 

virtual tours too, meaning you can join 

a tour from the comfort of your home 

anywhere in the world. Conducted over 

Zoom, guides will talk to you about secret 

stations including King William Street and 

Brompton Road stations through a gallery 

of contemporary photos, archival images 

and never before seen footage. 

Access to many sites on the virtual 

tour roster are so restricted that in-person 

Hidden London tours will never be 

possible, making these virtual experiences 

particularly special. 

For any transport fans, Hidden London 

tours include a number of locations 

featured on UKTV’s popular Secrets of 

the London Underground series. Fans 

of the show can follow in the footsteps 

of presenters Siddy Holloway and Tim 

Dunn to explore these special sites for 

themselves. The much anticipated second 

series of the hit documentary returns to 

Yesterday channel on Thursday 5 May at 

8PM, and on catch-up at UKTV Play. ◆ 

Tickets for all Hidden London tours 

are on sale now. To book head to 

ltmuseum.co.uk/hidden-london 


IDYLLIC ESCAPE 

RETREAT 

EAST 

Quiet and secluded, Retreat East offers a 

tranquil experience, both day and night. Spend 

some time enjoying this à la mode Suffolk 

hideaway and you are guaranteed to leave 

feeling both pampered and restored 

Text by Jessica Way 

Easily accessible from London, Retreat East is situated in the heart 

of Suffolk, surrounded by 35 acres of pristine British countryside. 

It is no wonder it has quickly gained popularity with celebrities 

– from football freestyler Jeremy Lynch to reality TV star Millie 

Mackintosh, who recently celebrated her 30th birthday at the 

retreat. Previously a working 16th-century farm, the site has been converted 

into a luxurious spa resort with 15 beautifully appointed eco-conscious 

barns, including their first barns to have private outdoor baths under 

canopies with sun loungers (launched this summer), and a further eight 

coming soon, some with their own wood-burning fires and four-poster 

king-size beds. Ranging from cosy sleeps for two, such as The Piggery, a 

large romantic barn with a fantastic sculptural bath and private sunny and 

sheltered courtyard twice the size as the barn itself, to four-bed farmhouses 

like the Cow House, the oldest barn with enormous kitchen and dining area 

and a luxurious double shower with underfloor heated pebbles – the barn 

stays are eco-luxury at its finest. 


Retreat East was the vision of Dominic Richards who, 

20 years ago, bought a house in the beautiful Suffolk 

countryside. His home became incredibly popular with the 

friends he had left behind in the London Spitalfields area. 

It was the countryside residence they all wanted to visit 

as it offered them an opportunity to recharge, enjoy the 

clear skies, fresh air and artisan seasonal food. 

This gave Dominic an idea, and when a nearby 

redundant dairy farm came up for sale he immediately 

identified its potential as a retreat for more sapped 

Londoners. The farm had certainly seen better days; its 

16th-century farmhouse, historic barns and surrounding 

fields needed a lot of work, but the challenge was not 

enough to deter Dominic – he was determined and had 

already identified the potential with urbanites looking to 

get away from the hustle and bustle of the city. 

THE RETREAT 

Guests check-in at the reception area, which doubles up 

as Retreat East’s farm and coffee shop, selling delicious 

farmyard essentials and locally made gifts such as 

Loggigue candles, Framlingham soaps, Pump Street 

chocolate and Tiptree cakes. 

On the accommodation side, in the heart of the retreat 

is the historic picturesque four-bedroom farmhouse. 

Perfect for multigenerational family stays, group stays 

and weddings, the timber-framed property has its own 

private garden and is packed with character. 

We stayed in The Granary, an authentic eco-luxurious 

converted dairy barn with its own private terrace 

overlooking the Suffolk meadows. Luxury touches 

include a heated floor throughout, a wood burner, a 

stylish farmhouse-style kitchen complete with SMEG 

fridge, a Nespresso coffee machine and, in the bathroom, 

a state-of-the-art walk-in shower. The interiors are 

homely. Think laid-back woven rugs, rustic brickwork 

and wooden beams throughout (dividing the otherwise 

open-plan living spaces), pretty throws and cushions, 

modern artwork and contemporary furnishings. Natural 

light floods in from the Velux window above and there’s a 

spacious dining room with patio doors out to the terrace. 

Offering a very warm welcome to guests and locals 

alike, the triple-height Great Barn restaurant is a fabulous 

foodie experience. Seasonal menus feature an array 

of beautiful dishes, prepared using ingredients from 

local artisan producers. Choose from chicken liver pâté, 

scallops, organic rainbow chard, fennel, smoked scallop 

roe or green curry. Take your time to savour, leaving 

some space for dessert; on the menu during our visit was 

banana and spiced rum baked Alaska with caramelised 

pecans and smoked caramel sauce – the flavour was 

divine. The Great Barn is open for breakfast, lunch and 

dinner (including Sunday lunch). You might visit to simply 

enjoy a cocktail, one made with Suffolk Distillery gin 

perhaps – and you can choose to wine or dine al fresco on 

the south-facing terrace while sipping some bubbles and 

watching the sun go down. 

Talking of bubbles, the south-facing terrace is also 

where you will find the retreat's outdoor hot tub and spa 

facilities – and watch this space, as the retreat has plans 

to extend the spa area. Unwind and experience a tranquil 

moment of pure relaxation with a treatment. I opted for 

their Five Element Aroma signature massage and felt the 


home-baked cakes, and exploring the stunning Shrubland 

Park. There are plenty of walking-route maps for you to 

enjoy during your stay from the front desk, and bike hire is 

complimentary to guests. 

Retreat East is pooch friendly throughout, including 

in the restaurant, with all properties allowing up to two 

dogs (other than The Little Warren & The Little Hive). 

There is even an impressive doggy shower for muddy dogs 

returning from their countryside walks. Plus, they sell local 

dog products from Pooches and Sniffe & Likket in their 

farm shop. 

Prices from £130 for Little Hive & Little Warren barn 

rooms, £225 for a one-bedroom barn and £325 for a 

two-bedroom barn; retreateast.co.uk 

tension in my shoulders melt away. An in-barn massage 

service is also available. 

Take a tour of the wild flower meadow, farm and the 

kitchen gardens that supply organic produce for use in 

their restaurant. Little ones will love meeting the ducks by 

the pond, stroking the farm chickens and watching the 

bees at work in their hive. Guests can also take part in clay 

pigeon shooting, axe throwing, archery, yoga, floristry 

classes, meditation, and chocolate making. 

Popular local footpaths pass through the retreat 

grounds. Favoured walks include strolling the fields to the 

pretty village of Coddenham for a cup of tea and some 

SURROUNDING AREA 

— 

Whether you're looking to get out and about and 

explore by road or by foot, there are some must-visit 

places within very easy reach. 

Ipswich Ipswich is just under 20 minutes' drive 

away from Retreat East. With direct rail links from 

London, it's a great option if you're travelling to 

Retreat East by train. 

Woodbridge Woodbridge is a pretty market town 

that sits along the River Deben. It'll take you around 

25 minutes to get there, but it is more than worth the 

journey. 

Southwold A quaint and pretty little seaside town, 

home to the famous Adnams Brewery. Southwold is 

ideal for beer, wine and spirits lovers to take a tour of 

Adnams Brewery brewing and distillery plants, or to 

enjoy a walk along the beach. 

Aldeburgh The drive is around 40 minutes but a visit 

to Aldeburgh is worth it. Perfect open beaches for 

a nice long dog walk and some of the best seafood 

restaurants around. 


10 OF THE BEST 

UNIQUE LUXURY 

BREAKS 

Need inspiration for a short break? We bring you the most interesting 

experiences to book now, for exploration that is more memorable this summer 

Text by Natalie Paris 


1 

WATERSPORTS IN WATERGATE BAY 

Perfectly positioned on a two-mile beach in 

northern Cornwall and a firm favourite with 

families, the Watergate Bay Hotel is well-known for 

its surf school. This summer, however, there is even 

more to tempt water-sports enthusiasts. A recent 

expansion means that hotel guests can add everything 

from paddleboarding to beach yoga and outdoor fitness 

sessions to their active break. These are run by local 

Wavehunters instructors who take pride in knowing the 

sea here really well. They recommend the big, sandy 

break as being gentle, so great for beginner surfers. 

Both private and group lessons are available. Time 

away from the beach can be spent watching the rollers 

from one of the varied hotel restaurants or from the 

glass-fronted indoor pool. Alternatively, have a soak in a 

clifftop hot tub or enjoy a hot rocks massage or pedicure. 

watergatebay.co.uk 

Two nights from £250 per person 

2 

A SPARKLING TIME IN 

BUCKINGHAMSHIRE 

English wine has enjoyed a vintage few years, 

with certain winemakers growing in stature and 

producing bottles to really treasure. For an insight 

into the creation of award-winning English 

wine, head to Horwood House in the Buckinghamshire 

countryside. The hotel is a 20-minute drive from the familyrun 

23-acre Chafor wine estate, where guests who book 

a Grape Escapes experience are welcomed with a glass of 

Chafor’s top-rated Vintage Cuvée Sparkling Wine. 

They are then taken on a tour of the vineyard and winery, 

wandering among the rows of gnarled vines while listening 

to head winemaker Tim Chafor talk about the estate’s 

history, his grapes and the winery’s signature style. 

A tasting and cheeseboard follows, after which guests 

can retreat to the hotel to try its new spa, with a swimming 

pool, a sauna and steam rooms. Dinner at the hotel 

restaurant is also included. 

horwoodhouse.co.uk 

One night from £325 per person 


S UFFOLK 

Idyllic escapes in the heart of Suffolk 

Nestled amongst 35 acres of rambling countryside Retreat East is the ultimate 

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joy a Enjoy one-night a one-night break break with dinner in 

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whatleymanor.com

3ELECTRIC CYCLING THROUGH 

THE COUNTRYSIDE 

A gentle way of exploring the rambling Sussex 

countryside, from hills to coast, is offered by 

Ockenden Manor and Bailiffscourt hotels, 

who invite guests to take electric bicycles 

out on a new, well-planned route. The starting point at 

Ockenden Manor, a hotel with a spa and Michelin-star 

restaurant in the High Weald, has guests on the ‘Cycling 

for Softies’ tour will riding to Climping, which is the 

location of Bailiffscourt, a second spa hotel on the coast 

(40 miles). The route then continues onto the South 

Downs and The Spread Eagle, another historic hotel in 

the charming market town of Midhurst, for the final night 

(25 miles). The journey wheels along country lanes, river 

and coastal paths. Pedalling is a breeze on these bikes, 

with GPS routes included for ease and a luggage transfer 

service provided between each night’s accommodation. 

prideofbritainhotels.com 

Three nights from £1,034 per person 

4 

‘FOREST BATHING’ IN THE 

COTSWOLDS 

The summer months are a great time to explore 

the patchwork of fields and rolling hills that 

make up the Cotswolds. The region’s impossibly 

pretty villages are a highlight, built from 

honeyed stone and hiding quaint teahouses and oak-beamed 

pubs up quiet, cobbled lanes. Guests at Whatley Manor on 

a ‘Cotswold Explorer’ break can enjoy a genteel, end-ofthe-week 

stay that includes afternoon tea. It also offers the 

chance to indulge in the British equivalent of forest bathing, 

by including two entrance tickets to Westonbirt, the National 

Arboretum. Here, visitors can stroll between 2,500 different 

species of tree, grown all over the world. 

The hotel, set a short drive from the arboretum on 

the edge of the Cotswolds, also has a newly appointed 

Executive Chef who has been awarded a Michelin star 

for The Dining Room restaurant, which guests can book 

separately for another night if they wish. 

whatleymanor.com 



5 

A SUMMER FESTIVAL WITH 

STYLISH WHEELS 

As camper vans combine freedom with little 

luxuries, they make a savvy choice for a 

music festival. In fact, some say the campervan 

field is where the real fun happens when 

the stage lights dim. Highlights for the forthcoming 

festival season include Bigfoot, in Buckinghamshire, 

where the artisan drinks and food are as important as 

the music, or Wilderness in Oxfordshire, where revellers 

relax in a lakeside spa in between acts. Alternatively, 

a weekend at Latitude – known for its strong spoken 

word programme – can be combined with a few days 

exploring sand dunes along the Suffolk coast. The 

smart vans from new, Dorset-based company OTBT, 

for example, are stylishly put together, containing tiled 

kitchens with leather cupboard handles and oiled wood 

surfaces, as well as a cleverly hidden away boot area, 

solar panels and a hammock swing. 

yescapa.co.uk 

Three nights from £468 in OTBT’s Maya van 

6 

THE WONDERS OF LOCH NESS 

Those whose knowledge of Loch Ness 

is limited to the legend of a waterborne 

monster might be surprised to learn 

that this Scottish beauty has many more 

secrets. From castles and battlefields 

to standing stones and tumbling waterfalls, the 

best way to explore this enigmatic body of water is 

by going on a day tour of the lake with an expert. 

It is not all walking either, with picturesque drives 

included, as well as a boat cruise across the deep, 

mysterious water. Ness Walk is a five-star hotel 

located in Inverness, not far from the loch. Its 

‘Wonders of Loch Ness’ break includes a picnic lunch 

and visits to Culloden Battlefield, Clava Cairns, 

Urquhart Castle and Divach Falls, which is where J 

M Barrie wrote Peter Pan. Round off the day in fine 

style with a dram or two of local whisky back at the 

hotel, which sits on the banks of the River Ness and 

was once a 19th-century house. 

nesswalk.com 

Three nights from £735 per person 


7 

SCOTTISH FOOD AND DRINK 

TRAIL 

From whisky to lobster, it’s possible to 

sample some of the best of Scotland’s 

culinary treasures on a luxury tour that 

uses a private chauffeur. Guests of both 

the Edinburgh hotel Prestonfield and The Witchery by 

the Castle – an oak-panelled restaurant with suites – 

can be driven to destinations within two hours of the 

city as part of a new Taste of Scotland trail. Locations 

visited include Dunbar Harbour, to see the seafood 

catch arrive and learn about sustainable fishing from 

Belhaven Lobster; East Lothian for a distillery tasting 

and a foraged-food-pairing workshop with Buck 

& Birch; Old Leckie farm for a quad-bike or tractor 

tour and Scotland’s oldest working distillery, The 

Glenturret. Here guests can expect a tour and lunch at 

Michelin-starred The Glenturret Lalique Restaurant. 

Dinner back at the accommodation will feature plenty 

of the day’s produce. 

sleigh.co.uk 

Two nights from £1,720 per person 

8 

A JUBILEE VIEWING OF THE 

CROWN JEWELS 

What could be better during Her 

Majesty The Queen’s Platinum Jubilee 

celebrations than a private tour to 

marvel at the Crown Jewels, travelling in 

a chauffeur-driven Daimler car that once belonged 

to the Queen Mother? This very exclusive luxury 

break has been masterminded by London’s Hotel 

Café Royal to provide an unforgettable experience 

for guests who check into the two-bedroom Royal 

Suite. On arrival at the Tower of London, a tour is 

conducted by a Beefeater, before a private viewing 

of the Crown Jewels and Royal Collection takes 

place. 

Those who visit during the weekend of 4 or 5 June 

will not only get to enjoy being inside a Royal Palace 

during the jubilee celebrations but will also receive 

a Champagne reception on arrival and the chance 

to extend the visit by booking dinner afterwards in a 

private dining room at the Tower. 

hotelcaferoyal.com 

One night from £6,147 per person 


9BE A GARDENER AND CHEF 

AT THE NEWT 

The gardens at Hadspen House, first 

designed by Penelope Hobhouse, have 

been transformed by luxury hotel The Newt 

into one of the south’s must-visit estates. 

With an apple-tree maze, a 'beezantium', deer quietly 

milling about in the woods and an interactive gardening 

museum, not only is there much to see on the average 

day here but the hotel is offering gastronomes an extra 

treat this summer. 

Taking a tour of the edible garden area, guests can, 

with the help of the estate’s head chef and a head 

gardener, pick their own lunch. They can then take their 

produce-laden trugs up to a spot above the wildflower 

meadow, where a fire will be lit. Under chef’s guidance, 

guests can create dishes and then help cook their finds, 

for a slap-up picnic lunch that is as inventive as it is fresh. 

thenewtinsomerset.com 


IMAGE © LIAM DANIEL/NETFLIX / VISITBRITAIN/ANDREW WELSHER 

10 

GEORGIAN SPLENDOUR IN 

BATH 

The television drama Bridgerton has 

gripped the nation recently, stirring 

up interest in the lives of high society 

during the Regency period. There is 

nowhere better to imagine the whirlwind of balls and 

park strolls loved by characters from Bridgerton than in 

Bath, with its dashing Georgian buildings that were used 

as a backdrop during filming. To spot key sites from the 

show, and to learn about this Unesco-heritage city at the 

same time, the Royal Crescent Hotel & Spa is offering 

guests a private Bridgerton-themed walking tour, plus a 

Champagne afternoon tea as part of a package called 

‘Promenade like a Bridgerton’. The hotel is located at 

the heart of the sweeping Royal Crescent, the city’s bestknown 

architectural masterpiece. 

prideofbritainhotels.com 



Indigo Barn, Norfolk 

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we’ve hand-picked the very best to bring you holiday memories to treasure. 

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ruralretreats.co.uk


48 HOURS IN 

UNA 

ST IVES 

CARBIS BAY 

Coastal walks, sandy beaches, surfing and art galleries: there’s 

many reasons to visit St Ives, north of Penzance. With the 

opening of Una St Ives luxury resort it is now easier than ever 

to plan your perfect trip to this much-loved destination 


Situated on the north coast of Cornwall within 

easy reach of the white sands of Carbis Bay 

and buzz of St Ives town, Una St Ives is an 

idyllic holiday village delivering laid-back 

indulgence in one of the county's most desirable hot 

spots. British Travel Journal first wrote about Una St 

Ives in our Spring 2021 edition, featuring the resort 

as one of the most exciting new coastal launches 

in the UK. It is no surprise then, that given the first 

opportunity to stay in one of their brand-new luxury 

lodges, we had our suitcases packed. 

Named ‘Una’ after the first boat to win the 

Cornish Gig Rowing Championships and built with 

beautiful Cornish stone amid stunning landscaped 

grounds, the resort has taken its Cornish heritage and 

artistic influences to heart. The design is consistent 

throughout the lodges, leisure facilities, restaurants 

and spa, with spacious and creative spaces and 

contemporary furnishings, inspiring coastal living. 

Packing is made easy as your home-from-home lodge 

is kitted out with items you might need, including a 

washer/dryer and all your bathroom luxuries. It is 

so easy to put down your bags and let your holiday 

begin, whether by making yourself a cuppa in the 

kitchen, relaxing in the dining area, putting your feet 

up on the sofa, or unwinding on your private terrace. 

The Scandi-influenced ecolodges, using solar 

panels and lamb's wool insulation, range from one-, 

two-, three- and four-bedroom properties. The 

exciting next phase of development will see a further 

27 high-end two- and three-bedroom villas with private 

hot tubs, a 20-metre heated outdoor lido with an 


additional kids’ pool, an outdoor kitchen, a bar and 

restaurant serving barbequed burritos, rotisserie chicken 

and flat iron steaks prepared al fresco over charcoal to 

create a street-food-festival vibe by the pool, along with 

a games room and padel-tennis courts. Plus, there's a 

55-bedroom apartment–hotel with its own central piazza, 

bar, restaurant and further leisure facilities in the pipeline 

– in total there will be 93 new luxury villas to be completed 

by the end of 2023, making it the largest luxury resort in the 

south-west and a spectacular jewel in Cornwall’s crown. 

Yet, even with just the newly completed lodges and 

Atrium (home to the the leisure club and Una Kitchen 

restaurant), and some construction work taking place 

around us, it was already a fabulous resort – far exceeding 

our expectations. (The new villas are also available to 

purchase under a holiday-home-ownership scheme.) 

DAY ONE 

After a restorative night’s sleep in the super-comfortable 

beds, the tranquility and calm continued through the 

morning, helped largely by a stocked fridge following our 

pre-arranged supermarket delivery the night before. It was 

weekend breakfast-as-usual only in a much brighter, more 

uplifting setting than our usual Hampshire abode. 

It had been such a long time since I had been to a spa 

(due to COVID-19) that I was delighted to kick-start my 

holiday wellness with an ELEMIS bespoke deep-tissue 

body massage while my husband and daughters enjoyed 

the swimming pool, sauna and steam rooms. Following a 

Cornish coffee espresso and slice of home-made banana 

cake from Una Kitchen we jumped in a taxi to St Ives (to 

avoid parking on a Saturday – it costs around £5 for the 

journey), excited to explore the picturesque town. 


‘ 

One of Cornwall’s best-loved and most 

visited places, St Ives is famed for the artists, 

past and present, who have visited and 

settled here. 

’ 

Perched above the town, Tate St Ives looks 

over Porthmeor Beach. Part of the famous Tate 

family, with siblings Tate Britain, Tate Modern 

and Tate Liverpool, this landmark is recognised as 

an international showcase for modern art, with a 

permanent collection and regular contemporary 

exhibitions. It epitomises the unique culture of St 

Ives, celebrating the artists associated with the 

town, including Barbara Hepworth, Naum Gabo, 

Alfred Wallis and Mark Rothko. Join in one of the 

guided tours or stop for a light lunch while enjoying 

the sea views and activity below. 

Contrasting with the space and openness of 

Tate St Ives is the intimacy of the neighbouring 

former home and studio of Barbara Hepworth (one 

of Britain’s most recognised 20th-century artists) 

known as the Barbara Hepworth Museum and 

Sculpture Garden. Here you can wander among 

the stunning sculptures, perfectly placed in their 

garden setting, take time to sit and reflect and feel 

yourself getting to know and understand the great 

sculptor. The shade, solitude and sheer beauty of 

the garden is there to inspire, refresh and enliven 

any art lover or green-fingered visitor. 

Just a short journey from this buzzing art scene is 

another of Cornwall’s top tourist attractions: The 

Minack Theatre. In 11931, local Rowena Cade, who 

lived at Minack House, felt that the cliffs she saw 

One of Cornwall’s best-loved and most-visited places, St Ives 

is famed for the artists, past and present, who have visited and 

settled here. This isn’t surprising given its natural charm and beauty 

and, important to any painter, its crystal-clear light. Hugging the 

shore is the town itself, with higgledy-piggledy lanes presenting no 

end of treasures. Around every corner, a tiny workshop, gallery or 

studio beckons, and there are many independent boutiques selling 

fashionable seaside clothing brands, handmade gifts, chocolates 

and other artisan creations. 

We wandered down the cobbled streets before stumbling upon 

Noall Square, a pretty courtyard with coloured flags, a rock shop, a 

record shop, and a tea room where we had some lunch. 

By the time we arrived at the picturesque harbourside it was 

time for an ice cream, which we enjoyed on Town Beach before 

meandering back through town to the opposite coastline to discover 

Tate St Ives – the world-renowned must-visit attraction. 


‘ 

...if you like your sea-to-fork fish dishes, 

the Una Kitchen Seafood Chowder is tasty 

enough to give Rick Stein a good run for 

his money... 

’ 

from her garden would be the perfect setting for a 

production of The Tempest. After that performance, 

the theatre was established and today attracts 

audiences from all over the world. There's no better 

backdrop for any play or musical performance than 

a sun-kissed shore, a Cornish sunset and distant 

waves. 

For us, though, it was time to get back to Una 

St Ives for our dinner reservation at Una Kitchen. 

Led by multiple AA-Rosette-winning Cornish chef 

Glenn Gatland, Una Kitchen’s Mediterraneaninspired 

seasonal menus have been quick to 

impress. So much so, that at the recent Cornwall 

Tourism Awards they were declared the winners 

of the highly acclaimed Restaurant of the Year 

award. Starters include much-loved favourites 

like sticky chicken wings and salt & pepper squid, 

and for the mains, if you like your sea-to-fork fish 

dishes, the Una Kitchen Seafood Chowder is tasty 

enough to give Rick Stein a good run for his money, 

while children are likely to be fans of their woodfired 

Gozney-oven-cooked pizzas. To finish off we 

devoured some chocolate ganache and strawberry 

and cream pavlova. 

Guests are also welcome in the evening to enjoy 

the bar, which offers a wide selection of wines, 

local beers and handcrafted cocktails with Cornish 

Orchards Gold cider, Alba IPA or Hella Pale Ale 

from St Ives Brewery, and St Ives Blood Orange gin. 

DAY TWO 

Eager to explore the many beautiful beaches, 

including Gwithian, Hayle, Porthmister and 

Porthmeor, all within easy reach of Una St Ives, 

we got dressed into our wetsuits. Together with 

our beach bags and our Dick Pearce wooden 

bellyboards from Newquay, (see my article on page 

92) we were ready for a day of wave riding. We had 

been told by one of the locals about The Towans 

(Cornish for ‘dune’) – a three-mile stretch of sand 

linking Godrevy Beach at the eastern tip of St Ives 

Bay to Gwithian Beach, all the way to Hayle Sands. 

We headed to Gwithian and couldn’t believe our 

luck: white sand, turquoise water, dramatic cliffs, 

glistening rockpools and rolling dunes. 


FIRST PAGE: UNA ST IVES LODGE. PREVIOUS PAGE LEFT TO 

RIGHT: TOWN BEACH, ST IVES; TATE ST IVES; THE MINACK 

THEATRE. PICTURED CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: UNA 

KITCHEN SEAFOOD CHOWDER; GODREVY LIGHTHOUSE; 

JESSICA HEADS TO GWITHIAN BEACH; UNA KITCHEN 

The sun was shining and we hit the surf under the 

backdrop of Godrevy Lighthouse – the inspiration for 

Virginia Woolf’s seminal novel To the Lighthouse. 

There were a few dog walkers and surfers, but for one 

of Cornwall’s best-loved and most visited coastlines it was 

surprisingly uncrowded. We might have been lucky due to 

the time of year (it was late April), but possibly it is the vast 

natural wilderness and expansive coastline that helps keep 

it so peaceful. We weren’t lucky enough, but you might 

see dolphins in the waves here, and seals are frequently 

spotted in the rocky shallows. 

For lunch or light snacks there’s the Sunset Surf Cafe 

adjacent to the Gwithian Beach car park, or if you fancy 

a wild clifftop walk, head towards Godrevy on the South 

West Coast Path in search of The Rockpool (20 to 25 

minutes). Both beach cafes have a laid-back and rustic 

vibe, catering for surfers, wild swimmers and dogs, while 

the kitchens serve great, fresh Cornish food with both 

indoor and outdoor seating, and incredible beach views. 

For wild sea swimming you just can’t beat the glistening 

waters of Carbis Bay, an absolutely gorgeous spot, with 

golden sand surrounded by subtropical plants, just 15 

minutes by foot or five minutes by car from the villas. In 

complete contrast to The Towans beaches we had visited 

earlier in the day, the coastline here rarely has big waves, 

so, rather than attracting adrenaline-seeking surfers, 

families and sunbathers come here in search of relaxation 

– and we were happy to leave our bellyboards behind. 

I urge all Una St Ives guests to feel the sand here 

between their toes – it comes as no surprise that this 

stunning beach is listed as one of the world’s best by 

the Most Beautiful Bays in the World organisation. You 

know you have arrived as you hear or see a train pulling 

into the picturesque railway station, and you cross the 

line over a pretty bridge to a convenient coastal path 

taking you down onto the golden sands. It wasn't quite 

yet summer and the water was cold, but knowing the hot 

tub was bubbling away back at the ranch gave me the 

encouragement to fully submerge, in true Wim Hof style. 

At low tide you can walk across to Porthkidney Sands, 

where you’ll find an RSPB bird sanctuary, an important 

habitat for seabirds. 

If an afternoon walk is more your scene than swimming 

in the Atlantic Ocean, there are many excellent hikes from 

Una St Ives too, including winding your way to Trencrom 

Hill where you are rewarded for your effort by the farreaching 

vistas across to St Ives Bay in one direction and St 

Michaels Mount in the other. Or, another local favourite is 

the path to Porthkidney Beach, the former home of artist 

John Miller, famous for his series of beach landscapes. 

Una St Ives certainly lived up to my expectation 

and was the wellness break I had needed; memorable, 

rejuvenating and life-affirming. 

Prices to stay self-catering in a one-bedroom lodge at 

Una St Ives from £180 per night for a three-night break, 

including leisure club access; unastives.co.uk 


Festivals 

Calendar 

With music, art, cars, yoga – and a goat, Britain is celebrating this 

summer in glorious style. So pack shorts or tuxedos and join us on 

our journey from Edinburgh to Cornwall to find the best festivals 

JUNE 

17-19 

BIRCH ARISING 

This Summer Solstice at 

the Birch, Hertfordshire 

there's a brand new and 

exciting three-day-long 

summer festival with 

live music and DJs, 

incredible food feasts, 

chefs, producers, pool 

parties, restorative 

wellness experiences 

and a comfy bed to lay 

your head on at the 

end of the night. 

birchcommunity.com 

JULY 

4-9 

RHS HAMPTON COURT PALACE 

GARDEN FESTIVAL 

Nursery exhibits, workshops 

and talks, rare and wild world 

plants and exotic living spaces. 

rhs.org.uk 

6-10 

HENLEY FESTIVAL, RIVER THAMES 

Don a black tie and tux or slinky 

maxi dress for this year's headliners, 

including The Script and Tom Jones. 

henley-festival.co.uk 

14-17 

150TH OPEN CHAMPIONSHIP 

Celebrate the 150th anniversary of 

the world’s oldest golf tournament 

at The Open in St Andrews, Scotland. 

theopen.com/st-andrews 


AUGUST 

4-7 

WILDERNESS, OXFORDSHIRE 

Set in 5,000 acres, the wellness, 

sporting, themes and food lineup 

is as strong as the music. 

wildernessfestival.com 

10-14 

BOARDMASTERS, 

CORNWALL 

There's surfing, 

skateboarding and 

BMX bike riding 

on Fistral Beach 

Beach along with 

gigs up the coast 

at Watergate Bay, 

with shuttle buses 

between the two. 

18-21 

GREEN MAN FESTIVAL IN THE 

BRECON BEACONS 

Nestled in the picturesque 

South Wales’ National Park. 

greenman.net 

26-28 

JUPITER RISING FESTIVAL, 

EDINBURGH 

Rock around the 

installations at the 

art-and-music festival 

in Jupiter Artland, the 

contemporary sculpture 

park. Focusing on 

emerging artists, 

highlights include the 

Durban duo, Destruction 

Boyz, who bring their 

Gqom music (electronic 

dance with repetitive 

sounds and heavy base 

beats) to Scotland, 

and don't miss Antony 

Gormley’s 1019 steel 

balls or Anish Kapoor’s 

caged metal chute. 

jupiterrising.art 


Great 

British Drinks 

There are going to be big celebrations of the Queen’s Platinum 

Jubilee during the weekend of 2 to 5 June, so here's a range of 

delicious Great British drinks from Scotland, Ireland, Wales and 

England for when you are raising your glass for a toast 

Limited Edition 

HIGH POINT RUBY 

The world’s first premium nonalcoholic 

fermented aperitif, 

made with natural ingredients 

from the surrounding Cornish 

countryside, £19.99. 

highpointdrinks.co.uk 

COTSWOLDS PLATINUM 

JUBILEE GIN 

The limited-edition 

Platinum Jubilee 

Gin is bursting with 

fruity notes of jammy 

raspberry, strawberry 

and fresh citrus, leaving 

a delicious taste of 

smooth vanilla ice 

cream, £34.95. 

majestic.co.uk 

MERMAID GIN 

Produced at the Isle of Wight 

Distillery, the first and only 

distillery on the island, a small 

batch, beach-to-bottle London 

Dry Gin with a hint of sea air, £38. 

harveynichols.com 

THE GLADSTONE AXE 

Created in honour of William 

Gladstone, four-times Prime 

Minister during the reign of 

Queen Victoria. There are two 

whiskies in the range, from £32. 

masterofmalt.com 


IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF 

ANNE 

BOLEYN 

Enjoy exclusive access in the gardens where the Tudor queen grew up 

when you stay the night in the Tudor Village at Kent’s Hever Castle, and 

spend an evening in the same room where she slept with Henry VIII at 

Thornbury Castle in Gloucestershire 

Text by Jane Knight 

night at Hever Castle get exclusive use of the grounds 

before they open to the public and after everyone else 

has gone home. 

It’s a delicious feeling having all this history to 

yourself, imagining Anne strolling along with Henry 

VIII, the Tudor king she so enraptured that he broke 

with Rome and set up the Church of England just so 

he could marry her. The story might not have ended 

It’s so quiet as I stroll along Anne Boleyn’s walk that 

I fancy I can hear the swish of her skirt skimming 

the grass. To my left is the fairy-tale castle where 

she grew up and the formal Italian garden; ahead 

lies the lake, with its pleasant hour-long circuit by the 

water. The only person I meet on my early-morning 

perambulations is a gardener; guests staying the 


enamoured pair may have promenaded, two of the illfated 

Queen’s prayer books, one exhorting the reader 

to ‘remember me when you doth pray’, and the room 

believed to have been slept in by the Tudor king. 

I wouldn’t mind curling up in the four poster there, 

but visitors to Hever can’t stay in the castle. Instead, 

well – Anne was one of Henry’s two wives who were 

beheaded – but it still never fails to entrance me. 

At opening time, I’m first through the door of her 

crenelated, moated home, where the door to the great 

hall with its huge fireplace, wood ceiling and minstrels’ 

gallery still has the lock Henry brought with him to 

ensure his safety. Upstairs is the long gallery where the 


FIRST PAGE TOP RIGHT: FEATURE 

ROOM AT HEVER CASTLE. 

BELOW: KING HENRY VIII SUITE AT 

THORNBURY CASTLE 

I’m just next door, in the Tudor Village 

(now called the Astor Wing) created 

for guests of its 20th-century owner 

William Waldorf Astor. It’s a long way 

from slumming it – Astor really did things 

properly when he ploughed some of 

his vast fortune into restoring Hever, 

landscaping its gardens and creating the 

lake. Insisting on only using materials and 

methods current in 16th-century Britain, 

his guest extension featured rooms with 

half-timbered or elaborate plastered 

ceilings that have welcomed everyone 

from Winston Churchill and Arthur 

Conan Doyle to Elizabeth Taylor and 

Grace Kelly. Even the least expensive of 

the 28 rooms are beautifully done out. 

Henry VIII himself would have surely 

felt at home in the Tudor Village’s dining 

room with its enormous fireplace, brocade 

curtains, oak panelling and ribbed wood 

vaulted ceiling. While they don’t serve 

dinner here (for that you need to stroll to 

the Henry VIII pub through the grounds 

or drive further afield), the breakfasts are 

particularly impressive. After consuming 

what feels like my body weight of fresh 

fruit, yogurt with granola, cheese, pastries 

and avocado on sourdough, I feel a bit 

like bluff king Hal myself. 

So much for eating like a king, but if 

you want to truly live like one you need to 

drive west for three hours to Thornbury 

Castle in Gloucestershire, the only Tudor 

castle that operates as a luxury hotel, and 

is now a member of the prestigious Relais 

& Châteaux group. 

Here, I hit the jackpot and sleep in 

the very room that Anne Boleyn shared 

with Henry for ten days during their 

royal progress in 1535. Up a spiral stone 

staircase with steps worn deep by the 

imprint of footsteps over the centuries, 

the Henry VIII suite is magnificent, 


‘ 

Here, I hit the jackpot and sleep in the very room that Anne Boleyn 

shared with Henry for ten days during their royal progress in 1535. 

’ 


with an ornate ceiling, a four-poster bed and the 

original garderobe toilet (thankfully now with 

plumbing). When the royal couple visited, Henry was 

already beginning to tire of his second wife – he had 

her beheaded in 1536 and married Jane Seymour, who 

didn’t stay at Thornbury but still has a room named 

after her, just beneath this one in the octagonal stone 

tower. 

Right at the top of the tower, up a dizzying 77 steps, 

lies the most opulent suite of all, named after Henry’s 

first wife, Catherine of Aragon. The enormous tenfoot 

by six-foot bed here is surely big enough for all of 

Henry’s six wives beneath its canopy of 24-carat inlay, 

while the capacious bathroom could have held all their 

ladies in waiting too. 

You don’t need to pay a king’s ransom to stay here 

though; even the least expensive of the 26 rooms have 

a regal feel, some with four posters or a seating area in 

the oriel window area. Like the rest of the castle, they 

are fresh from a multimillion-pound facelift after the 

Emirati Khamas group bought it in 2019. Under the 

watchful eye of English Heritage, it has been restored 

sympathetically, adding contemporary comfort 

to the Tudor trappings. Carpets have been peeled 

back to reveal Tudor flagstones, Victorian tiling and 

floorboards; furnishings were overhauled, plumbing 

and electricity upgraded, and discreet modern frescoes 

added. 

You certainly get a lot of history with your hotel 

here. Thornbury was one of the last castles to be built 

before firearms rendered them obsolete, so while it has 

the traditional crenelated walls, turrets and arrow slits, 

there is a distinct palatial side to it, with 12-foot red 

brick chimneys and luxurious apartments. 

The most lavish of all is the double-height drawing 

room, its elaborate oriel windows framed by crimsonand-gold 

curtains. It’s the perfect spot to enjoy 

pre-dinner canapes and cocktails, and although its 

twinkling chandeliers wouldn’t have been around in 

Tudor times, they certainly add to the atmosphere. 

Carved into the ornate arched doorway and the 

enormous fireplace surrounds I can make out the Stafford 

knot, the emblem of Edward Stafford, the third Duke of 

Buckingham. It was Stafford’s pretensions to grandeur 

and probably the throne (he was a descendant of Edward 

III) that led to his downfall. Fearing for his throne, and 

fancying the castle for himself, Henry effectively cried 

“off with his head” by signing the duke’s death warrant 

before nabbing Thornbury. After he visited with Anne, his 

daughter, Mary Tudor, spent part of her childhood there. 

Moving from the drawing room into the woodpanelled 

restaurant, the arrow slit in the four-foot castle 

walls by my table reminds me that I’m still in a castle, 

albeit a palatial one. It’s a lovely place to savour the sixcourse 

tasting menu, which becomes quite ceremonial 

with a succession of perfectly cooked dishes along with 

a matching flight of wines. 


BELOW: THE LOUNGE AT 

THORNBURY CASTLE 

IMAGE © VISITENGLAND/SUDELEY 

CASTLE/CLIVE BURLING 

Daytime brings the chance to explore other Tudor 

castles nearby. Berkeley Castle, which also belonged to 

Henry, is just nine miles away. While the king and Anne 

probably didn’t stay here, their daughter, Elizabeth I 

did – and left behind her bedspread when she stormed 

off after a row about hunting. An hour’s drive from 

Thornbury takes you to Sudeley Castle, which Henry 

and Anne visited, but which is better known as the 

home and resting place of Henry’s last wife, 

Catherine Parr, the Queen who outlived him. 

Back at Thornbury, there is falconry and archery on 

offer by way of regal pursuits, or afternoon tea beneath 

the minstrels’ gallery. Here, too, are gorgeous gardens, 

with ancient yew hedges, sections for roses and herbs 

and a particularly pretty walled garden. In Tudor times, 

its creeper-clad walls were topped by a timber gallery, 

allowing the duke to walk from his rooms to his pew in 

the adjacent St Mary’s church without mixing with the 

hoi polloi. 

Now, as I walk at ground level around a flower bed 

carefully planted in the shape of the Stafford knot, my 

thoughts turn to Anne again. She too must have walked 

here, probably aware that she was losing the king’s favour. 

Her story doesn’t end at Thornbury, but at the Tower 

of London, where she was taken by barge, passing 

through the shudder-inducing Traitors Gate. It’s no 

surprise that after she was executed on Tower Green and 

buried in the Chapel Royal of St Peter ad Vincula that 

people frequently report seeing her ghost there. 

I prefer to think of it at Hever instead, running 

around in the garden, happy and smiling outside her 

childhood home. 

Rooms at Hever Castle cost from £175, B&B, 

including access to the castle and grounds during the 

stay; hevercastle.co.uk. Thornbury Castle rooms start 

from £249, B&B, with the Henry VIII suite from £559; 

thornburycastle.co.uk 


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THE 

NORTHUMBERLAND 

COAST 


Author Martin Dorey headed north in search of solitude 

on a road trip to England’s least-populated county and 

a coastline that’s beautiful and often overlooked. 

Between the summer crowds he found just what he was 

looking for and more. And that can only mean one thing: 

a bracing dip in the North Sea 

Text and Images by Martin Dorey 

We parked the van at Beadnell 

Bay, a long, sandy bay to the 

south of Seahouses, in a little 

car park behind the dunes. 

We were looking for solitude, in a year when 

solitude was hard to find; seeking out the 

kind of places where most people don’t go. 

I wanted to prove that it is still possible to 

get ‘off the beaten track’ in England in 2021, 

the year we all stayed at home. Happily, it is. 

Northumberland, by many standards, 

is one of those places where the majority of 

people don’t go. It has the lowest population 

density of any English county and remains 

resolutely off the radar for many, despite a 

coastline that’s sparsely populated, rugged, 

diverse and often achingly beautiful. Between 

the hotspots of Holy Island, Bamburgh, 

Seahouses and Amble, there is still plenty 

of space, especially when you compare it to 

other places: Northumberland welcomed 

10 million visitors in 2018 compared with 47 

million for the Lake District (on the wetter, 

western side of England). The county might 

not have the lakes or the mountains but it 

more than makes up for it with castles, 


ancient sites, beaches, puffins and dark skies. 

And did I mention the beaches? A drive up the 

coast from Whitley Bay to Berwick will take 

you to them all. Give yourself time and dawdle. 

Lizzy took off her shoes to walk through the 

dunes to the beach. It was a warm day, with 

thin, wispy cloud and little wind. 

When we emerged from the tall marram 

grasses we looked out at a low-tide beach with 

maybe three or four people on it. Most of them 

were walking. Lizzy led me off to the south to 

show me a beach she had wanted to explore. 

We let the coast path take us around a 

low headland of rocks, across cool, still-damp 

sand, and through more marram, to another 

small arc of beach with a rocky reef in the 

middle and points on either side. Below the 

tideline, and between the rocks, flat sand. 

The beach was deserted, save for a few 

gulls pecking at seaweed. A couple walked 

along the coast path, away from us and 

around to the next bay. A few small waves 

broke on the sand in a small clean swell. 

If ever there was a time to embrace the 

North Sea this was it. The water, though chilly, 

was bearable. I blew out as I submerged to 

avoid the risk of cold-water shock – something 

to remember – and allowed my breathing to 

slow back to normal. 

The beach was gently shelving so it took 

us a while to get deep enough to dive in and 

swim. My skin fizzed as I got used to the cold 

and swam a few strokes out into the bay. 

We swam a little more and then, once back 

in our dry clothes, walked back up the beach 

hand in hand, feeling the warmth from the sun 

on our backs. With the beach to ourselves it 

was a good sign we were, truly, off the beaten 

track, especially considering it was August. 

PREVIOUS PAGE LEFT 

TO RIGHT: LIZZY AT 

BEADNELL BAY; ST 

MARY'S LIGHTHOUSE; 

MARTIN HEADING FOR 

SURF AT COCKLAWBURN. 

CLOCKWISE FROM 

TOP LEFT: SNIPE AT 

LINDISFARNE; THE 

ABBEY AND CASTLE, 

HOLY ISLAND; WILD 

TEASEL; LIZZY SWIMS AT 

SNOOK. NEXT PAGE LEFT 

TO RIGHT: THE RIVER 

TWEED; BEACH HUTS AT 

AMBLE; NORHAM CASTLE 

ON THE RIVER TWEED. 


‘ 

I loved the wildness and the fact that, with a little effort, we could find a 

slice of heaven to ourselves. That’s a rare quality. And it made me feel truly 

alive and happy at a time when so much was uncertain. 

’ 

This experience was the 

peak of my time exploring the 

Northumberland coast: I loved 

the wildness and the fact that, 

with a little effort, we could find 

a slice of heaven to ourselves. 

That’s a rare quality. And it 

made me feel truly alive and 

happy at a time when so much 

was uncertain. 

I have been to 

Northumberland in the depths 

of winter and found it to be 

beguiling even then. But in 

summer it was truly lovely. 

We surfed on a tiny beach 

behind the railway lines near 

Cocklawburn while a few 

walkers trudged up the sands 

and a woman played in the 

waves with her children. We 

bought kippers in Craster. We 

strolled through Amble. We 

got ‘that picture’ of Bamburgh 

Castle reflected in the 

shimmering shallows. 


We strolled on empty sands and 

swam in empty seas. We cycled in 

Kielder Forest and got completely lost 

in the vast nothing of the Otterburn 

Ranges. What more could you ask of 

a road trip? 

When it came to visiting Holy 

Island – the hugely popular island of 

Lindisfarne – we employed a tactic 

divulged to us by a fellow camper: he 

waited for a day with a midday high 

tide. This meant that any visitors to 

the island would have been cut off all 

day by the tidal causeway, unable to 

return to the mainland until the water 

receded in the evening. Waiting on 

the mainland for the tide to ebb away, 

he drove across to Lindisfarne when 

everyone else was leaving. It worked 

for us too. We arrived at about six 

o’clock on a clear, sunny evening. Sure 

enough, idling on the island side, we 

found a queue of cars. 

As they streamed off the island, we 

cruised on, enjoying a quiet evening of 

spiritual wandering as the sun set. 

Our final stop, Berwick, was as 

surprising as the rest of it. We found 

the lovely beach at Spittal by accident 

while trying to find the (brilliantly 

located) Caravan and Motorhome 

Club Site. It is a quiet, sandy beach, 

backed by beautiful, elegant stone 

houses and terraces of neat cottages. 

Some had gardens that led onto the 

promenade. Bound by the railway 

and cliffs, Spittal is a dead end kept 

quiet by a lack of through traffic. I 

fell in love with its wide, quiet streets 


MARTIN IS ALSO 

THE AUTHOR OF 

THE TAKE THE 

SLOW ROAD SERIES, 

WHICH FEATURES 

INSPIRATIONAL 

JOURNEYS BY 

CAMPER VAN AND 

MOTORHOME. THE 

SERIES INCLUDES 

SCOTLAND, 

ENGLAND AND 

WALES, IRELAND 

AND FRANCE 

straight away. There were probably no more than 

20 people on the sand. It passed the ‘I could live 

here’ test. And that’s a big ask: I live in Cornwall. 

Sadly, Berwick was as far as we’d get on this 

trip. It didn’t really matter that we’d stopped short 

of Scotland. 

Northumberland was wild enough without 

heading for the NC500, the Trossachs or the 

Outer Hebrides. 

And with all the driving we’d save, there was 

always time for one last cool swim. Breathe out as 

you submerge. 

Off the Beaten Track: 

England and Wales 

Off the Beaten Track: 

England and Wales is a book 

about getting away from it 

all. Martin drove the length 

and breadth of England and 

Wales to find places that are 

forgotten, overlooked or simply dropped off the 

map. With sections on how to do it the hard way 

or the easy way, Martin kayaked the Tweed, hiked 

river valleys to the sea, cycled up mountains and 

fished remote wilderness lakes in search of that 

rarest of commodities: solitude. Did he find it? You 

bet he did. 

Martin Dorey is the author of Off the Beaten Track: 

England and Wales and The Camper Van Bible: The 

Glovebox Edition, published by Conway and out now. 

CHECK IT OUT ON THE WAY 

— 

Craster 

The home of the Craster Kipper is a 

must! Go early. Parking is easier – and 

pick up a freshly smoked kipper from the 

quayside. There's a great coastal walk to 

Dunstanburgh Castle too. 

Amble 

There are many good reasons to amble 

around the fishing town of Amble. The 

harbour village prides itself on being 

the ‘friendliest port in England’, and its 

annual puffin festival, brightly coloured 

beach huts and seafood shacks are just a 

few of its quirks. 

Warkworth Castle 

Stunning castle on a bend in the river, 

owned by the National Trust. View the 

awe-inspiring keep as you wander around 

the nearly intact circuit of towered wall. 

Bamburgh Castle 

Experience a different level of 

Northumberland at England's finest 

fortress, home of the real Last Kingdom of 

Bebbanburg. Great views, overlooking a 

beautiful, white sand beach. 


48 HOURS IN NEWQUAY 

THE HEADLAND 

HOTEL AND SPA 

Set on an exclusive clifftop overlooking the famous sands of 

Fistral Beach, The Headland is, without doubt, one of the 

grandest and finest hotels in the British Isles. Although you 

don’t need a reason to stay here, the brand new £10 million 

Aqua Club could be your motivation to check-in this summer 



Dramatic, unapologetic and 

authentic, The Headland Hotel & 

Spa is an Victorian architectural 

masterpiece, made famous by 

Roald Dahl’s movie The Witches. 

The striking red-brick façade and imposing 

peninsula position on Fistral Bay’s rugged cliffs 

simply demands attention. 

It was in June 1900 when the first guests stayed 

in this beautiful Duchy of Cornwall landmark, 

when the hotel was at the height of luxury for its 

time, with lavishly decorated rooms, hot and cold 

running water and electric lights. 

Fast forward 122 years with the opening of a 

brand new state-of-the-art Aqua Club, and we 

are seeing history repeating itself, as this awardwinning, 

much-loved five-star hotel once again 

raises the bar high. 

It has been far from straightforward, however. 

The Headland’s owners, John and Carolyn 

Armstrong, have invested over £45 million since 

taking on the hotel in 1979. 

Despite joyful beginnings that lasted through 

the fruitful twenties, the combination of postwar 

rationing and owners unable to invest in the 

property, left it neglected, creaky and dilapidated. 

Despite its run-down state, peeling paint and 

rotting wood, John and Carolyn were ready to take 

on the challenge, which included a serious amount 

of structural work and interior refurbishment. 


The phenomenal husband-and-wife 

team still own the hotel today, and 

have stopped at nothing to reinvent 

The Headland as a modern, luxurious 

destination of distinction. 

Their labour of love, making 

improvements and restoring the hotel 

might have taken four decades, but it 

has now paid off. The Headland Hotel 

& Spa is now a multi-award-winning, 

five-star 88-bedroom property, with 

a state-of-the-art gym, a five-bubble 

spa, a six-pool wellness centre, three 

restaurants and the best sea views in 

Cornwall. 

If you want to impress your kids, 

book hotel rooms 223, 227 or 205, 

as these were used in the bedroom 

scenes of The Witches. Or for a special 

occasion, you might want to stay in 

a Fistral suite, Ocean suite or Best 

suite. We struck it lucky in room 210, 

an absolutely beautiful suite with its 

own private balcony, separate lounge 

with electric fireplace, an exquisite 

bathroom and spectacular sea views. 

If you would prefer something more 

private, in 2020 the hotel launched 

their ultra-stylish exclusive guest village 

with a selection of contempary one-, 


FIRST PAGE: FISTRAL BEACH. CLOCKWISE 

FROM LEFT: THE HEADLAND HOTEL & SPA; 

AQUA CLUB; JESSICA IN HER HOTEL SUITE 

two- and three-bedroom self-catering 

cottages and apartments. Whether in 

one of the cottages, apartments or the 

hotel itself, all guests are welcome to 

enjoy the hotel's new Aqua Club. 

Three years in the making, the 

eagerly anticipated Aqua Club is a 

no-luxury-spared swimming and wellbeing 

complex situated adjacent to the 

hotel. The new facility has six stunning 

pools (both indoor and outdoor), a 

sun terrace overlooking the ocean, and 

a Mediterranean-inspired restaurant 

named The Deck. 

Outside on the sun terrace, there 

is a heated sunset spa encircled by 

an infinity-edge pool. There is also a 

heated outdoor vitality pool that has a 

Cornish granite menhir at its centre – 

the perfect spot to let go of the stresses 

and strains of everyday life. 

Don’t disregard The Headland’s 

original spa sanctuary located inside 

the heart of the hotel, however, 

where there’s a sumptuous relaxation 

suite and further treatment rooms, a 

Rhassoul mud chamber, a Swedish 

sauna, a Cornish salt steam room, 

aromatherapy showers, hydrotherapy 

pool and a state-of-the-art gym. 

In celebration of the Queen’s 

incredible 70 years of service this 

summer, you might also enjoy 

devouring a decadent Platinum 

Jubilee afternoon tea. The Headland 

chefs have created a menu of 

quintessentially British treats and 

light bites, including cucumber, 

cream cheese and coronation 

chicken sandwiches and The Queen's 

Chocolate Cake. 


‘ 

There are not many hotels in the world that can claim this level of enchantment 

for their guests, and this makes The Headland a very special hotel indeed... 

’ 

With an old-fashioned charm and 

attentive staff throughout the hotel's 

restaurants, you are made to feel like 

royality wherever you are, from double- 

A-Rosette-awarded dining in The 

Samphire restaurant to sampling the 

Mediterranean-inspired menu in The 

Deck and enjoying sundown cocktails 

on The Terrace. Menus change with the 

seasons, reflecting the best regional 

produce with a selection of fresh local 

seafood, chargrilled cuts of the finest 

meats and irresistible daily specials, 

along with expertly mixed cocktails. 

The Headland is remarkable in 

how it has maintained a traditional 

service and charisma from the early 

1900s, when royals King Edward VII 

and Queen Alexandra stayed at the 

hotel, and it is no surprise that the 

current Prince of Wales and Princess 

Royal have also enjoyed several visits 

in recent years, along with celebrity 

royalty George Clooney. 

To really appreciate the history of 

the place, take some time out to dwell 

in the sitting room, where vintage 

photos, hotel memorabilia and press 

cuttings from days gone by adorn the 

walls and antique furniture. 

You acquire a sense of timeless 

connection to those who have stepped 

the same footprint before you at The 

Headland, from standing on the 

balcony sharing the same mesmerising 

experience of losing yourself in the 


LEFT TO RIGHT: THE HEADLAND HOTEL 

BEDROOM SUITE; JESSICA RIDES THE WAVES 

OF FISTRAL BEACH WITH WORLD BELLYBOARD 

CHAMPION, JAMIE JOHNSTONE 

sights and sounds of the perpetual 

waves to the glamorous feeling of 

gracefully winding your way down the 

grand sweeping staircase. 

You know that, while this is your 

moment to enjoy the charm of the 

hotel, it comes with the familiarity 

of these ageless qualities, the 

breathtaking views and preserved 

architectural beauty, having been 

enjoyed for over a century by others 

before you. 

There are not many hotels in the 

world that can claim this level of 

enchantment for their guests, and this 

makes The Headland a very special 

hotel indeed, especially when you 

consider its remarkable achievement 

of modernising the hotel with à la 

mode luxuries without compromising 

this exceptional quality. And if this 

historical significance isn’t spinetingling 

enough for you, the hotel's 

unrivalled location just a stone’s throw 

from the golden sands of Fistral Beach, 

offers every reason to brace the sea 

and enjoy the waves. 

Head down to the Surf Sanctuary 

to get kitted out – introductory surf 

classes, equipment hire and private 

lessons, as well as all you need for 

coasteering, kite surfing and standup 

paddleboarding; it's all available 

here. And, Fistral, although positively 

popular with the surf professionals, 

is extremely welcoming to everyone, 

no matter your level of experience or 

confidence in the water. 

We picked up one of Dick Pearce's 

environment-friendly wooden 

bellyboards, loaned to hotel guests on 

a complimentary basis. Founder and 

World Bellyboard Champion, Jamie 

Johnstone and his team make the ecoconscious 

handmade boards at their 

workshop just a short stroll from the 

hotel in Hope’s Yard. Take some time 

to visit the two-storey studio and surf 

shop to see the sanding, smoothing, 

varnishing and painting, and to treat 

yourself to a gift or two. As well as 

selling the surfboards, at the shop 

you'll find fashionable artwork prints, 

t-shirts, blankets, books and more. 

(Read all about Jamie’s Surf Wood 

for Good campaign in our Travel 

News, page 20.) 

If surfing and wave-riding has left 

you feeling hungry on the sand dunes, 

a delicious Cornish pasty from the 

Fistral Beach Pasty Shack should hit 

the spot, or for Rick Stein’s famous fish 

& chips there’s a laid-back restaurant 

with the option to take-away. 

The Headland Hotel & Spa really 

does have it all: the spas, the sea, 

and the incredible hospitality. But 

transcending its glitz and glamour, for 

me, it has become more than just a 

hotel. It's a place that makes you feel 

so special during your stay, giving you 

such a sense of place in all its alluring 

history that your memories become 

even more magical. In a similar way 

to cherishing an heirloom, you feel a 

desire to savour these moments and to 

enjoy The Headland with your family, 

who will hopefully continue to pass the 

tradition down, perhaps even sharing 

their family holiday memories with 

their own children – from generation to 

generation – in the same spot, and with 

the same ocean view as you. 

Jessica Way was hosted by The 

Headland Hotel, a member of Pride 

of Britain Hotels, a very fine collection 

of hotels dotted around the British 

Isles. The carefully curated collection 

includes privately owned properties, 

each one unique and characterful. 

Prices for an overnight stay start from 

£210 per night based on two people 

sharing, including breakfast. Contact 

Pride of Britain Hotels on 0800 089 

3929. prideofbritainhotels.com 


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BOOKSHELF 

We're reading... 

ACROSS 

9 --- East, Suffolk escape and 

spa (7) 

10 Shannon town distils ethanol 

(7) 

11 Tricked (5) 

12 Grouped together for a private 

conversation, perhaps (2,1,6) 

13 Picturesque region of middle 

England (9) 

15 Faint (5) 

16 The part that matters (8,3) 

20 Fabulous writer (5) 

22 Wine steward (9) 

24 Skin (9) 

26 Anne Boleyn's family castle (5) 

27 --- Manor, hotel and spa in 13 

Across (7) 

28 Disruptive Pacific currents 

(2,5) 

DOWN 

1 Isle of Arran fortress, which 

became a family seat (7) 

2 Words to a naughty child (4,2) 

3 Disappointments (3-5) 

4 Youths (10) 

5 Accumulation of information (4) 

6 Shoulder signals (6) 

7 Festival of Speed location (8) 

8 Belittles (7) 

14 Hamburger bun feature (6,4) 

16 Lulworth camp and musical 

event (8) 

17 Large pachydermatous quadruped 

(8) 

18 Early in the story (4,3) 

19 19th-century castle near 

Inverness (7) 

21 Rice dish made with saffron (6) 

23 Cook up (6) 

25 Noss ---, South Devon beauty 

spot (4) 

THE PIG: 500 Miles of Food, Friends and Local Legends, THE PIG’s 

second book is a celebration of the counties we call home, £30, 

thepighotel.com | The Responsible Traveller: This book is your ticket to 

positive, guilt-free, sustainable and ethical travel, £7.99, summersdale.com 

| The South West Coast Path: 1,000 Mini Adventures Along Britain's 

Longest Waymarked Path: An inspiring guidebook highlighting the 

adventures to enjoy along its entire 630-mile route, £20, bloomsbury.com 

| 100 Piers: Paintings at the Water's Edge: In this collection of 100 

beautiful paintings it is clear that every pier, from the grandest to the 

most modest, has its own story, £35, unicornpublishing.org 

Answers will be printed in the Autumn/Winter 2022 Issue 

ANSWERS TO CROSSWORD 11 | SPRING 2022 

ACROSS: 9 A gogo 10 On a budget 11 Rat-a-tat 12 Katrine 

13 Artisan 14 Hidcote 15 Coach houses 19 Long arm 21 Ammonia 

23 Yeotown 25 Dare say 26 Carbis Bay 27 Ebbor 

DOWN: 1 Hadrian 2 Lost it 3 Southsea 4 Nottingham 5 Sark 

6 Gutted 7 Ignitors 8 Uttered 14 Hook and eye 15 Contours 

16 Somerset 17 Play-act 18 Halyard 20 Atomic 22 Naseby 24 Nabs 


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British Travel Journal | Summer 2022

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