GG_N49_ESP

Angel García, the founder of 

bodegas Santa Rufina and his 

daughter Blanca García 

BODEGAS SANTA RUFINA 

QUALITY FIRST 

PAGES 118-130 

OUR AUTUMN SELECTIONS 

MEDOC CRUS BOURGEOIS, FRANCIACORTA, 

SOUTH AFRICA, CASTILLA Y LEÓN 

L 19045 - 49 - F: 7,95 € - RD 

AUTUMN 2022

Enter your wines now: en-vigneron.gilbertgaillard.com

CONTENTS 

COLUMNS / REPORTS 

26 

7 

News 

10 

Focus 

Be prepared to fall in 

love with Crus Bourgeois 

wines 

26 

Identity 

Costières de Nîmes, 

Luberon, Ventoux – 

Three wine regions with 

a difference 

66 

Vineyards 

Castilla y León old vines, 

terroir and heritage 

74 

New generation 

South Africa: 

Reconciling wine 

production with 

conservation 

84 

Appellation 

Castillon, a left-field 

view of the right bank 

115 

Stars & Wine 

Cameron Diaz: From 

acting to making wine 

117 

Contact details 

118 

2022 Autumn selection 

56 

74 

37 

Vineyards 

Muscadet, from 

evolution to revolution! 

46 

Appellation 

Franciacorta, the symbol 

of Italian traditional 

method sparkling wine 

56 

Climate 

Are German wines 

the winners of global 

warming? 

94 

Endorsements 

From HVE to organic, 

Burgundy makes 

a pledge to the 

environment 

104 

Trending 

Vermouth makes 

a major comeback 

in Spain 

94 

Gilbert & Gaillard next issue 

Winter 2022 

COVER: COURTESY OF THE ESTATES 

AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 

3

EDITORIAL 

FRANÇOIS GILBERT - EDITORIAL DIRECTOR 

FRANCIACORTA: 

ITALY’S ANSWER TO STYLISH SPARKLING WINE 

The rolling hills of Franciacorta unfurl across 

Lombardy, in the province of Brescia, where 

they share the landscape with northern Italy’s great 

glacier-derived lakes, mostly South of Lake Iseo. The 

hilly region between Bergamo and Verona provides 

good aspects and a mild climate, due to the protection 

afforded by the nearby Alps. The location also 

instils the wines with amazing freshness, character, 

incredible minerality and pronounced structure. Basically, 

this configuration produces some of Italy’s finest 

sparkling wines. It is no mere accident that the local 

grape varieties are Chardonnay, Pinot blanc and Pinot 

noir. Or that the wines stored in cellars hewn out of 

the ground are made using the traditional method, 

with a secondary fermentation in the bottle. Imitation 

produces the best results, you might say. That’s 

certainly true, but there is no denying the fact that 

Franciacorta has done so skilfully, its talent matched 

only by the quality of its vineyard sites. These have 

the ability to deliver infinite nuance, and also imbue 

the wines with a longevity that is rarely encountered 

outside Champagne – to name names. 

So why not let yourself be swept away by the landscapes 

and indulgent wines of Franciacorta. This is 

picture-postcard territory, packed full of what makes 

Italy what it is, a combination of the dolce vita and 

hard graft to produce delicious pours that are increasingly 

sought-after. From Satèn and Rosé to vintage, 

Reserva and wines with no dosage, they all have 

unsuspected qualities that we reveal in this issue. 

Don’t be surprised to find that they’ll soon be your 

go-to wines! 

4 AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

EDITORIAL 

PHILIPPE GAILLARD - EDITORIAL DIRECTOR 

WESTERN CAPE: 

DRIVING SUSTAINABILITY 

Despite South Africa’s long-standing history 

of producing wine, it has successfully carved 

out a place for itself in the modern era. The recent 

CapeWine exhibition is the wine industry’s perfect 

illustration of this. For 2022, the decision was made 

to present all the projects, programmes and activities 

that contribute to sustainability within the industry, 

under the banner ‘Sustainability 360’. The primary 

focus has been placed on three pillars – ‘People, Place 

and Prosperity’ – each one of them playing a vital role 

in ensuring a better future for South African wine, 

and those who are directly involved and committed 

to it. The future of the surroundings, the fauna and 

flora with which the wines interact, is also a critical 

component of the long-term growth and development 

of the industry. 

The ‘Sustainability 360’ theme is a nod both to the full 

circle or 360° sustainability achieved by the industry 

and its age. Since the very first day Cape grapes were 

fermented in 1659, over 360 years of winemaking have 

been notched up. 

Much more recently, the Integrated Production of 

Wine scheme (IPW) was established in 1998. Producers 

comply with IPW requirements and are independently 

audited. Farms that pass the audit are 

entitled to use the sustainability endorsement. 

As WOSA CEO Siobhan Thompson wrote recently: 

“Without sustainability, there can be no growth”. The 

stance resonates with Gilbert & Gaillard, as illustrated 

by this special editorial feature (page 74) which sheds 

light on the wines and practices of these committed 

wineries. 


5

EDITORIAL 

SYLVAIN PATARD - EDITOR IN CHIEF 

CRUS BOURGEOIS REACH 

FOR THE SKY 

category of Bordeaux wine reserved for the Médoc, 

A Crus Bourgeois in some ways live in the shadow of 

the 1855-classified Grands Crus. In actual fact, though, 

their origins stem from the same source. Several centuries 

ago, in the market town of Bordeaux under English 

rule, merchants were allowed to sell wines produced 

from their vineyards levy-free both locally and in export 

markets. The privilege would enable them to make their 

fortune and they would go on to buy the finest vineyards 

in the Médoc as early as the 15th century. At the time, the 

term ‘Bourgeois’ referred only to its original meaning of 

‘town dweller’ (‘bourg’ means town) and not to any kind 

of social class. 

After a chequered history, their crowning moment finally 

came in the 20th century with landmark dates such as 

1935 – the first real classification – then 1962 with the 

inception of the Médoc Crus Bourgeois producers’ organisation 

and 1979, when the Crus Bourgeois statement 

was permitted on labels. The last decade has allowed 

them to fully get up to speed and they are now unanimously 

hailed by both the trade and consumers. The 

reason for this is that they offer both good price points 

and quality due to demanding specifications whose 

primary focus is on site-expressiveness. It is essential 

to remember that they account for over 30% of Médoc 

production with some 28 million bottles annually. From 

this perspective, at the very least, they are on a par with 

the Grands Crus Classés. Probably their only remaining 

challenge is to nurture their image as successfully as 

the great growths have done and become an essential 

component of the market, both in France and internationally. 

They have certainly gone a long way towards 

achieving that already. 


NEWS 

CHÂTEAU-FIGEAC, FINALLY AT THE TOP 

The 2022 Grands Crus de Saint-Emilion classification has finally promoted Château-Figeac to Premier Grand Cru Classé A status. 

The endorsement rewards 

relentless hard work and 

above all recognises the outstanding 

quality of its terroir and its 

unique place in Saint-Emilion 

due to its fairly unique varietal 

range. Owned by the same family 

since 1892 and ranked as a Premier 

Grand Cru Classé since 1955, 

Château- Figeac’s promotion is 

not so much a culmination as an 

invitation to continue the work 

that has already been achieved. 

The hardest part is just beginning. 

The higher up the rankings, the 

further there is to fall. 

The Manoncourt family, all the 

staff at the chateau and the editorial 

team at Gilbert & Gaillard spare a special 

CHÂTEAU-FIGEAC 

thought for Thierry Manoncourt whose dearest 

wish was to see Figeac “in its rightful place”. It 

was his lifetime achievement, into which he 

THIERRY MANONCOURT, WHO PASSED AWAY IN 

2010, DEVOTED HIS LIFE TO CHÂTEAU-FIGEAC 

poured his spirit of innovation, distinctiveness, 

excellence and authenticity which still 

live on today. 

www.chateau-figeac.com 

© Twin Lefevre 

WILL THE 2022 VINTAGE REKINDLE MARKET INTEREST? 

The same three leading wine producers, in Europe and worldwide, should produce just over 130 million hectolitres 

according to initial estimates by European industry organisations. 

Despite extreme weather events throughout the season, the 2022 vintage witnessed a 

slight increase in crop yields in all three countries compared with 2021 (128.7 million 

hectolitres), but is likely to remain below the five-year average (132.9 mhl between 2017 

and 2021). Ranking first worldwide since 2015, Italy holds onto its leadership position 

with a 2022 output of around 50 million hectolitres. France is a distant second, with an 

estimated 44 million hectolitres (on the back of a 16% rise), despite being impacted by 

lack of rainfall and high summer temperatures which brought volumes down. Spain is 

likely to rank third with 35 million hectolitres. Harvesting was early in all three countries 

and the crop mostly avoided mildew and other fungal diseases. 

The only positive aspect of the drought and high temperatures is that 2022 fruit is mostly 

healthy with promising levels of ripeness. It now remains to be seen whether the quality 

will be enough to elicit a positive response from the marketplace after the shortfall in 

2021 put a damper on expectations. 

Source Vitisphere 

A GREAT QUALITY HARVEST AND MORE 

GENEROUS VOLUMES 

© Gilbert & Gaillard 


7

NEWS 

2022 GOSSET TROPHY: SAFEGUARDING HERITAGE 

FOR FUTURE GENERATIONS 

Established in 1995, the Gosset Trophy was originally designed to award the variety and delicacy of France’s gourmet food culture. 

It has gradually evolved to more broadly celebrate those who protect French heritage, both tangible and intangible. 

This prestigious award has honoured top restaurant 

personalities and their Champagne wine lists, showcased 

chef/sommelier duos, rewarded charitable initiatives 

in the culinary art space and turned the spotlight on 

schemes focusing on children, women, people with disabilities 

and vulnerable communities. 

For its 27 th edition, the panel selected Alain Baraton, ‘the 

gardener of Versailles’, a great supporter of trees and 

nature protector, as its 50th recipient. It also presented 

a special award to Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger who has 

undertaken a very laudable mission to protect the unique 

heritage features of the Champagne Hillsides, Houses and 

Cellars for Unesco. 

©Photoheart-min 

ALAIN BARATON, JEAN-PIERRE COINTREAU (GOSSET PRESIDENT) 

AND PIERRE-EMMANUEL TAITTINGER 

2012 CUVÉE GOSSET: ANOTHER NEW RELEASE 

2012 Celebris Blanc de Blancs is yet another innovation by this inspired and inspirational Champagne house. 

Only 15,000 bottles of the label, which showcases Chardonnay from the most 

noble and complementary provenances, have been released. 2012 Celebris 

Blanc de Blancs is dressed in gold. Its nose is fresh, energetic and distinctive, 

with lemon, grapefruit and a touch of toast. The attack on the palate is clean 

and smooth with a gorgeous lemony edge and a very palatable saline finish. 

It prompts pairings with even the most extravagant foods, from ceviche and 

carpaccio to scallop tartare, oysters and caviar. The final word should go to the 

most qualified person to talk about the new label, cellar master Odilon de Varine: 

“This is the first vintage Blanc de Blancs by the house. 2012 Chardonnay lent 

itself particularly well to the desired balance for a Gosset Celebris label”. 

©Photoheart-min 

Defining features: 100% Chardonnay • Cellaring date: 2013 (9 years’ lees maturation) 

• Disgorgement: March 2022 • Dosage: 7 g/l • Villages: Ambonnay, Avize, Cramant, 

Cumières, Passy-sur-Marne, Trépail, Vertus, Villers-Marmery, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. 

Recommended retail price: €250 at all good wine merchants and direct-to-consumer at +33 3 26 56 99 56 

www.champagne-gosset.com 


FOUR 

WINEMAKERS 

FOR AUTUMN 

2022 

CHÂTEAU CAMBON 

LA PELOUSE 

2016 

HAUT-MÉDOC 

18,50€ 

DAVID COUTANCEAU 

CAVAVIN PLOUFRAGAN 

2C, rue du Calvaire 

22440 ploufragan 

+33 2 96 79 77 69 

ploufragan@cavavin.fr 

DOMAINE LES 

GRANDES COSTES 

2018 

PIC SAINT-LOUP 

23,90€ 

LOU RAYACOBALLE 

CAVAVIN DAMMARTIN EN GOELE 

1, rue Saint-Jean 

77230 Dammartin en Goële 

+33 1 60 54 32 56 

dammartin@cavavin.fr 

CHATEAU 

D’ESCOT 

2015 

MÉDOC 

14,40€ 

MARIE EDITH DUARTE 

CAVAVIN DAX 

1, avenue Georges CLémenceau 

40100 DAX 

+33 5 58 55 02 92 

dax@cavavin.fr 

CHÂTEAU VIELLA 

PRESTIGE 

2016 

MADIRAN 

18,80€ 

CHRISTOPHE LABBE 

CAVAVIN LES HERBIERS 

10, rue Nationale 

85500 Les Herbiers 

+33 9 63 62 88 84 

lesherbiers@cavavin.fr 

7, parc des Fontenelles - 78870 Bailly - France 

Tel.: +33 1 30 80 08 08 - Fax: +33 1 30 80 08 88 

Editorial Directors: 

François Gilbert and Philippe Gaillard 

Editor in chief: Sylvain Patard 

Tasting committee: François Gilbert, Philippe 

Gaillard, Sylvain Patard, François Bezuidenhout, 

Olivier Delorme, Matthieu Gaillard, James Turnbull 

Editorial staff: Michèle Huyard 

Contributors to this issue: Jean-Paul Burias, 

Isabelle Escande, Alain Echalier, Florian Glemot 

DipWSET, Matthias Neske, Samarie Smith 

DipWSET, Sylvain Patard, Frank Rousseau, 

Francesco Saverio Russo 

Translation: Sharon Nagel, Marika Quarti 

Sales and Marketing Director: 

Etienne Gaillard : +33 6 30 97 87 26 

etienne@gilbertgaillard.com 

Advertising France: 

Bordeaux - Charentes: Frédéric Comet: 

+33 6 27 58 47 06 - fcomet@gilbertgaillard.com 

Corsica - Languedoc - Provence - Rhône Valley: 

Nicolas Sanseigne: +33 6 46 86 80 01 - 

nsanseigne@gilbertgaillard.com 

Jura - Loire Valley - Savoy - South West - 

Roussillon: Caroline Gilbert: +33 6 84 92 57 61 - 

caroline@gilbertgaillard.com 

Alsace -Beaujolais - Burgundy - Champagne: 

Lucie Jeandel: +33 6 77 72 16 04 - 

ljeandel@gilbertgaillard.com 

Advertising Italy: Sandra Sirvente: 

(+33) 7 63 87 13 13 - ssirvente@gilbertgaillard.com 

Advertising Spain, Portugal: Thibault Leray: 

(+33) 6 84 01 57 24 - tleray@gilbertgaillard.com 

Advertising Central and Eastern Europe: 

Philippe Ricros: +33 7 61 76 01 22 - 

pricros@gilbertgaillard.com 

Marketing coordinator: Lucie Le Gall: +33 7 87 07 78 76 

l.legall@gilbertgaillard.com 

Production: Isabelle Méjean-Plé - Tapioka Conseil: 

+33 9 71 41 51 49 

Lay-out: Lise Delattre - Com l’Hirondelle: +33 9 81 47 75 25 

Murielle Guégan - Impactea Concept: +33 6 59 32 08 65 

Printed in Spain: Matthieu Battini - Carré Collé: 

+33 6 87 27 12 65 

Gilbert & Gaillard Tasting South-Africa: 

Petru Venter, General Manager: +27 82 787 1784 - 

petru@gilbertgaillard.com 

Olivier Duroy, Area Manager: +27 72 389 1083 - 

oduroy@gilbertgaillard.com 

Matthieu Gaillard, Brand Ambassador: +27 66 429 9219 

International Distribution: Pineapple Media Ltd - 

http://www.pineapple-media.com 

Gilbert & Gaillard is published by Vinipresse, SARL with a capital of 35,500 euros • Head Office: 7 parc des Fontenelles, 78870 Bailly, France • Legal representative and Editorial 

director: Sylvain Patard • Legal deposit: Third quarter 2022 • Legal publication n° pending •ISSN 2110-6762 • Reproduction of part or all of the contents of this magazine in any form 

is expressly prohibited. Any company names that appear in the articles are given for information only and have no publicity purpose. 


9

BE PREPARED TO FALL 

IN LOVE WITH 

CRUS BOURGEOIS WINES 

BY ALAIN ECHALIER 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 

©CLAUDE CLIN-0604, 

© CLAUDE PETIT 

Are you really familiar with Bordeaux wines sporting the intriguing ‘Cru 

Bourgeois’ moniker on their labels? In an era of constant one-upmanship and an 

ocean of endorsements and superlatives, is this just one more marketing gimmick 

to catch the consumer’s eye, or is it genuinely meaningful? We went through the 

required specifications with a fine-tooth comb and quizzed the chairman of the 

Alliance along with various member chateaux. And here is our verdict! 

CHÂTEAU DE VILLAMBIS 


BORDEAUX 

FOCUS 

THE VINEYARDS IN FRONT OF CHÂTEAU DE VILLAMBIS 

Many Bordeaux vineyards were developed by ‘investors’ who often lived in the 

city. The ‘Crus Bourgeois’ designation – meaning wines belonging to town residents 

– is therefore a natural extension and a very ancient one at that. You might 

therefore think it was already synonymous with good taste and modernity even 

though, in French as in English, it can now also have a different connotation. 

Within the world of wine, classifications have been around for centuries. In Bordeaux, 

one noteworthy example is the classification presented to the future US President 

Thomas Jefferson in 1787. More importantly, in 1855 Napoleon III asked French wine 

regions to classify their wines ahead of the ‘Exposition Universelle’. Bordeaux wine 

brokers responded with a list of just 61 Médoc red wines, a mere drop in the ocean 

compared to the region’s countless vineyards. 

So in 1858, 248 other noteworthy ‘Crus Bourgeois’ were also listed. When the 61 chosen 

few from 1855 decided to drop the statement in favour of the highly gratifying ‘Grand 

Cru Classé’ status, the term continued to be used by the other category of wines. 

Despite this, it is widely believed that it was not until 1932 that a serious classification 

of the wines was undertaken by Bordeaux wine brokers, followed by the creation of a 

Crus Bourgeois producers’ organisation in 1962. In 2003, a ministerial decree finally 

enshrined 247 chateaux from the 490 properties in the running, but the classification 

was rescinded in 2007. A new classification for the 2008 vintage featured 243 chateaux 

and since 2012, the selection process has been placed under the authority of INAO. 

The classification is now reviewed every 5 years and only features red wines from the 

Médoc. The latest iteration is for 2020 and classifies properties for the 2018, 2019, 

2020 and also 2021 and 2022 vintages. 


11

A TASTING OF 

CRUS BOURGEOIS 

DU MÉDOC 

HOW IT WORKS 

The classification process is now organised by the Alliance des Crus Bourgeois. Only 

‘chateaux’ vineyards in 8 appellations can compete: Médoc, Haut-Médoc, Listrac- 

Médoc, Moulis-en-Médoc, Margaux, Saint-Julien, Pauillac and Saint- Estèphe. 

Firstly, the Crus are given an application to apply for one of three levels of classification: 

Cru Bourgeois, Cru Bourgeois Supérieur and Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel. 

Compliance with the respective specifications is then checked. 

Next comes the tasting stage, where several samples are tasted blind. Bureau Veritas 

is tasked with coordinating the tasting sessions and analysing the judges’ tasting 

abilities. The Crus Bourgeois only handle the judges’ training. Five vintages – from 

8 to 4 years previous – are taken into consideration for a classification which can be 

displayed on the label for 5 years, from 2 years previous to 2 years ahead. So quality 

is not the only factor taken into account, consistency is important too. 

Obviously Crus Bourgeois Supérieurs, and even more so Crus Bourgeois Exceptionnels 

require the highest tasting scores. 

Subsequently, at least 2 of the 5 vintages used for the tasting are tested at random, 

just before the wines are bottled for each of the chateaux, in order to check that 

consumers will definitely be drinking the wines judged for the classification. In 2020, 

250 Crus were selected, including 56 Crus Bourgeois Supérieurs and 14 Crus Bourgeois 

Exceptionnels. The wines represented 28 million bottles, or approximately 31% 

of Médoc wine production. 

A sticker is placed on every bottle – sometimes on the neck or alternatively on the back 

label – featuring a QR code. Using a smartphone app that can be downloaded, consumers 

can check the authenticity of the wine. They are directed to the Crus Bourgeois 

website where information on the chosen wine is displayed, along with details about 

the chateau and the vineyard site, for instance. 


BORDEAUX 

FOCUS 

THE ISSUES AT STAKE FOR THE 

CRUS BOURGEOIS 

FRANCK BIJON, CHAIRMAN OF THE CRUS BOURGEOIS DU MÉDOC 

Franck Bijon, chairman of the Alliance des 

Crus Bourgeois, points out the current trends 

and issues for Crus Bourgeois wines. The 

process, which is clearly and properly codified, 

is primarily aimed at creating healthy competition 

within the Crus Bourgeois category. This 

is essential because quality is a critical factor 

in an era where the consumer price tag ranges 

from 5 to 28 euros. Bordeaux has been particularly 

hard hit over the past 3 to 5 years. The 

pricing, often designed to ensure cash-flow over 

the short term, is not viable over the long term 

and for many is below actual cost price. People 

talk about “fair trade for chocolate”, but perhaps 

they should also take an interest in wine, quips 

Bijon. For now, the consumer has everything to 

gain. Bijon suggests a contest between a Cru 

Bourgeois and a fourth or fifth growth Grand 

Cru Classé (Ed. GCC have five different levels). 

The quality is there, for half the price. 

The style of the wines is also changing. Judges 

have to take into consideration the wines’ 

ageing potential. Bijon, who also happens to be 

MD of Vignobles Larose and their former technical 

director, points out that current winemaking 

techniques produce wines that will keep 

for 7 to 15 years, but are also a pleasure to drink 

when younger. Cellaring capacity is no longer 

synonymous with austerity, as used to be the 

case in Bordeaux. 

Reviewing the classification every 5 years also 

provides a great incentive to make quality 

wines. As a reminder, the classification for the 

Grands Crus Classés has been ‘cast in stone’ 

since 1855, when in actual fact, the vineyards 

used have on occasion changed significantly, 

through sales and acquisitions for instance. 

For the Crus Bourgeois, no more than 10% of 

the vineyards earmarked for the Cru can change 


13

CHÂTEAU LAROSE 

TRINTAUDON 

BORDEAUX 

TRAVEL 

THE CRUS BOURGEOIS 

DU MÉDOC 

FROM LEFT TO RIGHT, 

KARIN, JÉROME AND 

RÉGIS BERNALEAU 

14 SPRING 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

BORDEAUX 

FOCUS 

and there must be a dedicated winery and ageing cellar. This provides consumers 

with a significant token of reliability. 

And there is every likelihood that requirements will continue to increase. 

Although organic farming is not yet a prerequisite in production specifications, 

environmental considerations are gaining traction. From 2030, level 3 HVE 

certification will be required but the Crus Bourgeois team is also mulling 

taking on board other expectations expressed by society. 

VIGNOBLE BERNALEAU: 

RECOGNITION AND A SALES BOOST 

Karin Bernaleau is now the co-manager of the namesake vineyards. Her grandfather 

used to farm vines in the Margaux appellation area. But that was a different 

era – mixed farming was the norm on the farm which also bred calves… 

The present-day vineyards are divided between two chateaux. Mongravey is 

situated in the Margaux appellation. It is a Cru Bourgeois Supérieur with 

KARIN BERNALEAU INTRODUCES HER WINES TO ASIANS 


15

KARIN BERNALEAU 

AT THE GATES TO 

CHÂTEAU DE BRAUDE 

BORDEAUX 

FOCUS 


BORDEAUX 

FOCUS 

12 hectares under vine in 40 different blocks, 

65% of which are planted with Cabernet-Sauvignon, 

33% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc. De 

Braude is in the Haut-Médoc appellation area, 

and is the family chateau. It produces Cru 

Bourgeois wines grown over 8.5 hectares, 60% 

planted to Cabernet-Sauvignon and 40% Merlot. 

Both Crus became Crus Bourgeois in 2003. 

Karin views the achievement as a way of securing 

recognition for 30 years’ hard work, but 

also positioning the wines for the consumer. 

The price of a bottle of Mongravey, depending 

on the vintage, ranges from 27 to 32 euros, as 

compared with 18 to 20 euros for De Braude. 

Although the wines sold well before, entering 

the Crus Bourgeois category increased media 

exposure, an undeniable bonus when market 

conditions started to become more challenging. 

The Place de Bordeaux took greater interest in 

the wines, and exports were facilitated. Karin 

remembers one occasion when a visit from a 

Swiss journalist subsequently enabled her to 

open up the Swiss market. 

The Alliance des Crus Bourgeois is a good 

resource for collaborative promotion of the 

wines. Levies allow them to take part in exhibitions 

like Vinexpo or to travel to China. The Cru 

Bourgeois sticker is effective for engaging with 

consumers and Karin makes sure to place it 

prominently on her bottles of wine. In Europe, 

and in China, Crus Bourgeois are well-received. 

In North America, however, efforts must be 

made to improve awareness. 

SABINE BEMELMANS AND ROBERT COURTIAU TASTING WINE AT CHÂTEAU DE VILLAMBIS 

CHÂTEAU DE VILLAMBIS: PRIDE 

The village of Cissac is home to a lovely, albeit 

unusual property. Château de Villambis belongs 

to an organisation whose purpose is to provide 

support for 120 people, some of whom are 

mentally disabled, and prepare them for life 

in the community. There are greenhouses for 


17

BORDEAUX 

FOCUS 

producing plants, a laundry, industrial sub-contracting work, and also production 

of wine from a large, unbroken, 14-hectare vineyard. The soils contain sand 

and Pyrenean gravel. Sabine Bemelmans, its marketing secretary, explains that 

although the wine was put forward for the classification starting in 1932, in all 

honesty, no wines were produced on the estate between 1950 and 1979. The first 

bottle re-emerged in 1982 and the chateau joined the classification in 2003. Belonging 

to the Crus Bourgeois category is an obvious source of pride and gratification 

for everyone who works here, and implies that their work is treated with respect. 

The varietal range leans heavily in favour of Merlot (90%) with a little Cabernet-Sauvignon 

and 1% Petit Verdot. Its appellation is Haut-Médoc. The result 

is a supple wine with fine tannins, and an extremely appealing price tag of €8 

for the second wine and €14-15 for the high-end offering. Most of the wines are 

sold to private customers, regulars, many of whom are the friends and families 

of those who work there. Don’t think for a moment, however, that people buy 

the wines simply for ‘charitable’ reasons – the Château also exports to China 

and occasionally the United States, as well as selling to wholesalers. Affiliation 

with the Crus Bourgeois rewards the quality of the wines. 

THE GROUP OF VINE WORKERS AT CHÂTEAU DE VILLAMBIS 


BORDEAUX 

FOCUS 

UNI-MÉDOC: A CO-OPERATIVE 

WINERY, AND CRU BOURGEOIS 

LAURENT VACHÉ, DIRECTOR OF UNIMEDOC 

Uni-Médoc, with its 140 member growers 

farming around one thousand hectares, is a 

sizeable co-operative winery representing 

17-18% of Médoc wine production. Its director, 

Laurent Vaché, stresses that although the 

winery has had an eventful history since it was 

founded in 1934, the past decade or so has been 

relatively stable. 

A co-operative winery is all about pooling 

resources. Uni-Médoc produces a complete range 

of wines, six of them classified as Crus Bourgeois, 

which equates to just under 10% of total production. 

In fact, its director is also the vice-chairman 

of the Alliance des Crus Bourgeois. 

In reality, as Laurent Vaché points out, the 

winery is just like any other producer. “For our 

Crus Bourgeois wines, the vineyard blocks are 

clearly identified, as is the production process, 

and inventories are kept separate. We thus fully 

comply with production specifications. In fact, 

our member growers are well-versed in the 

concept of specifications, because we use them 

for all the co-operative’s wines. Subsequently, 

our wines go through the tasting process for the 

Crus Bourgeois. And last but not least, they are 

not necessarily our highest-end wines – we have 

other brands that can be more expensive!” 

In the cellar door shop where the entire range 

is sold direct to consumers, the Crus Bourgeois 

are popular. Their prices range from €9 to 12. 

Uni-Médoc’s ethos revolves around supplying 

wines for pleasure that pair well with food. 

Some of them – like Château Clément – are 

exported to the United States and Germany. 

Differentiating between Château / Cru Bourgeois 

/ Co-operative Winery therefore no longer 

has currency, points out the winery’s director. The 

only things to remember are that a Cru Bourgeois 

is affordable, has a story to tell and offers quality, 


19

THE IMPRESSIVE BARREL 

CELLAR AT UNIMEDOC 

BORDEAUX 

TRAVEL 

CHÂTEAU ROUSSEAU 

DE SIPIAN’S CHINESE OWNER 

IS A LOVER OF FRENCH WINE 

AND CULTURE 


BORDEAUX 

FOCUS 

all of which is regulated and provides guarantees 

for consumers. Also, the wines have no specific 

target market – they can be equally sold to private 

customers directly, in supermarkets, Michelin-starred 

restaurants and wine merchants. 

THESE CHATEAUX BELONG TO THE UNIMEDOC CO-OPERATIVE WINERY 

CHÂTEAU ROUSSEAU DE SIPIAN: 

CHINESE, YET TYPICALLY BORDEAUX 

Before going any further, one thing should be 

pointed out – this pretty chateau is one of the 

Bordeaux properties bought by a Chinese buyer. In 

2019, Hong-Kong-based company Micronasia took 

ownership of the estate, buying it from an equally 

foreign vendor, British industrialist Christopher 

Race. Bordeaux has indeed attracted global interest 

for a very long time. Wu Jianqi is the owner’s 

local representative and says that the same staff of 

three continues to work at the property. The estate 

boasts 15 hectares, 10.5 of them planted with vines 

– 50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet-Sauvignon and 10% 

Petit Verdot. 

There are also 3,000 Sauvignon and Sémillon vines 

producing small amounts of white wine labelled 

Vin De France but, as Wu Jianqi hastens to add, 

“This is for the owner himself. He loves French 

wine and culture!” 

Most of the wines produced are red, and have 

been classified as Cru Bourgeois since 2008. For 

consumers, 90% of whom are now located in 

China, this is an endorsement of quality. Situated 

in northern Médoc, not far from the estuary, the 

winery produces rounded, fruity wines, which 

are popular in China. Winemaking techniques 

have not changed, though, points out Wu Jianqi, 

and the wines are still matured for 12 months in 

barrels. The chateau also offers wine tourism solutions, 

with guestrooms and dining facilities. The 

focus is on moving upmarket, so next time the 

application will aim for Cru Bourgeois Supérieur 

status! 

JIANQI WU, MANAGER OF CHÂTEAU 

ROUSSEAU DE SIPIAN 


21

BORDEAUX 

FOCUS 

CHÂTEAU DE MALLERET: CRU EXCEPTIONNEL 

Paul Bordes, who has managed the estate since 2013, presents this superb property with 

its twenty or so hectares under vine, now in their second year of conversion to organic 

farming. The wines come under the Haut-Médoc appellation and are blended from Merlot 

and Cabernet-Sauvignon in proportions that vary every year, especially given the increasingly 

frequent extreme weather events. 

The growth was previously a Cru Bourgeois and became a Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel in 

2020. Paul Bordes, who has connections with Bordeaux’s Right Bank, takes a very positive 

view of the classification. As with Saint-Emilion, he points to the fact that it is periodically 

reviewed, and that the spotlight is turned on the wine itself. He remembers how the 

vintages he put forward were tasted twice by 10 people, blind. The process was very well 

organised, all of which gives it legitimacy for consumers and should improve price points. 

It will also promote direct-to-consumer sales, even though most of the property’s wines 

are sold via Bordeaux merchants. 

So far, he has not seen any major impact of the upgrade to Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel 

internationally. The promotion did not entail any changes in production methods, 

however, because the winery already adheres to a strict policy of high-quality winemaking, 

and is mulling a switch to biodynamics, for instance. The delayed reaction, though, 

can easily be ascribed to Covid which put a damper on communications. The Alliance des 

PAUL BORDES, WHO MANAGES CHÂTEAU DE MALLERET 


BORDEAUX 

FOCUS 

Crus Bourgeois will be launching marketing campaigns and reputations are built up over 

time, and not overnight. 

One Bordeaux broker marketed cases containing one bottle each of the 14 Crus Bourgeois 

Exceptionnels, which were immediately snapped up, underscoring increased interest in 

the category. 

VIGNOBLES ROUX: 

CRUS BOURGEOIS ARE MEANINGFUL, AND RECOGNISED 

Inevitably, when it comes to Crus Bourgeois, we turn to Romain Roux with his typical 

South-West accent. As the owner of many vineyards, he has three Crus Bourgeois – 

Châteaux Plagnac, Puy Castera and Pontey. All three are from the Médoc and they sell 

respectively for around €6.5, €9.5 and €11. 

Right off the bat, he explains that he views the Médoc as a region with a future. Ongoing 

climate change offers the guarantee of delicious wines, now that issues of ripening are a 

thing of the past. All of a sudden, even the simple Bordeaux wines are good, he says, with 

his customary banter. In fact, he rants about the industry’s defeatist attitude – admittedly, 

Bordeaux bashing is a reality, and there can be weather issues, but Bordeaux’s value for 

money proposition has never been so good. 

THE CELLARS AT CHÂTEAU DE MALLERET 


23

ROMAIN ROUX, OWNER OF 

CHÂTEAUX PUY CASTERA 

AND PONTEY, AMONG OTHER 

PROPERTIES 

Crus Bourgeois classification for the three wines is, he feels, a token of recognition. 

Although he is perhaps one of the Alliance’s largest owners, he has never taken an active 

role within the organisation because it is professional and works well. The levies are reasonable 

and the classification is recognised, in France, Asia and the United States – he has had 

first-hand experience of this at exhibitions in New York. So, every bottle he sells sports the 

sticker. Roux has never wanted to apply for Cru Supérieur or Exceptionnel status, despite 

the fact that his high-density vineyard Château Pontey is an absolute gem. The reason for 

this is that Cru Supérieur or Exceptionnel status entails wine tourism activities that he does 

not want to introduce – he grows wine and feels that everyone should stick to their own job. 

Roux owns other properties in the Médoc, which do not feature in the classification. One is 

a Haut-Médoc, in the more affordable, classic range. The other is in Saint-Estèphe. Neither 

are in the same product line, it’s all about positioning. 

The Crus Bourgeois institution is professional, peer-approved and offers a genuine 

guarantee for both its members and wine enthusiasts. But above and beyond this, the wine 

labels selected for the Cru Bourgeois classification now provide consumers with information 

that is easy to understand and practical, especially as they do their shopping, thanks 

to the QR code displayed on the bottles. The wine is authentic, tracked and has been tasted, 

enjoyed and approved. All of this takes away the stress for consumers at point of purchase, 

a crucial moment when they need to be reassured and comforted. And if that bottle also 

happens to display a Gilbert & Gaillard medal sticker, then you can rest assured that you 

are making the right choice! 


4 covers: France, Italy, Spain, South Africa 

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COSTIÈRES DE NÎMES, LUBERON, 

VENTOUX – THREE WINE REGIONS 

WITH A DIFFERENCE 

BY FLORIAN GLEMOT DIPWSET 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 

COURTESY OF THE ESTATES 

Located in the southern Rhone, the Costières de Nîmes, Luberon and Ventoux 

appellations share an ancient tradition of winegrowing that dates back to 

Antiquity. Situated within wildlife sanctuaries where conservation of biodiversity 

is key, they offer visitors both spectacular scenery and a distinctly Mediterranean, 

laid-back lifestyle, all of which is generously encapsulated in their wines. We have 

selected six wineries that stand out for the quality of their wines in order to turn 

the spotlight on the common traits between the three appellations, but also what 

makes them unique. 

SET BETWEEN THE LAVENDER AND THE PINE GROVES, THE VINEYARDS AT DOMAINE DE TARA BASK IN A VERY SUNNY PROVENCAL CLIMATE 


RHÔNE VALLEY 

IDENTITY 

DOMAINE MOURGUES DU GRÈS HAS CREATED A FUN TOUR OF THE VINEYARDS SO THAT VISITORS CAN GET A BETTER UNDERSTANDING OF ITS HISTORY 

AND DIVERSITY 

T 

he Southern Rhone is internationally renowned for its full-bodied, generous, predominately 

Grenache noir-based red wines. Their flagship is without doubt Châteauneuf-du- 

Pape, with numerous other Rhone appellations in its wake. These include the most southerly 

of them all, Costières de Nîmes, which forms a bridge between the Provence side of the 

Rhone and Languedoc. The Luberon, flirting with northern Provence, stands out for its 

predominant share of fresh, delicate rosés whilst Ventoux, the most northern of the three 

appellations, produces twice the amount of wines as the first two. The three appellations 

bask, broadly speaking, in a Mediterranean climate, often buffeted by the dry and relatively 

cool Mistral wind, a welcome ally for combatting fungal diseases. At the same time, they are 

also home to specific micro-climates, from which stem some of their unique characteristics. 

Washed down by the Rhone from the Alps and the Massif Central during the Ice Age, the 

pebbles typical of the appellations lining the river allow the soil to store heat, promoting 

berry ripening. The pebbles, which are an iconic feature of the Rhone Valley, also provide 

drainage and help retain moisture deep in the subsoil, which is generally clay-limestone. 

This simplistic description, however, fails to do justice to the immense variety of soil types 

and textures, exposures and altitudes, formed by the countless geological upheavals that 

have shaped the landscape of the Rhone Valley. This undoubtedly diversifies the style of the 

wines. One last point is that, although the three appellations are geographically close, they 

each come with their own history and culture. From Provence to Languedoc and the Alpine 

foothills to the Mediterranean, this climatic, geological and cultural diversity has led each 

wine region to develop in a different way, mirroring their respective wine styles. 


27

ROMAIN AND HIS PARENTS ANNE AND 

FRANÇOIS COLLARD, WINEGROWERS 

AT CHÂTEAU MOURGUES DU GRÈS 

COSTIÈRES DE NÎMES: 

THE MOST SOUTHERLY APPELLATION 

Bordering the Rhone, between the garrigue and the Camargue, Costières de Nîmes 

is located at the very South of the Rhone wine region, just a few dozen kilometres 

from the Mediterranean Sea. This location lends it a marked maritime influence 

which makes it unique. “The rocky foothills and garrigue of the Cevennes just North 

heat up very quickly in summer, creating daily air convection which produces a 

sustained sea breeze on days when it is not outweighed by the Mistral”, explains 

François Collard, the winegrower at Château Mourgues du Grès. The result is an 

extremely windy appellation, providing natural ventilation for the vineyards and 

thus limiting the need for anti-fungal treatments. Consequently, the region is in 

the forefront of organic winegrowing. Château Mourgues du Grès is located just 

5 kilometres from the Rhone, so quite naturally the soils are strewn with pebbles. 

François Collard explains further: “Pebbles provide great drainage and protect the 

more clayey sub-soils from evaporation. They form a reservoir that the vines can 

tap into, thereby making them more resilient during heat waves”. The 70-hectare 

vineyard, which has been certified biodynamic since 2019, is mainly located on a 

plateau clad with pebbles, but also has marl soils that provide good water reserves 

on the northern side of the plateau, and drier limestone soils on its southern side. 

This variety of soils paves the way for an impressive range of blend-worthy wines, 

which is crucial for crafting the end wines. Like most of the Southern Rhone, 

Costières de Nîmes is traditionally an appellation based on blending. “The soils also 

partly comprise fine earth stemming from pedogenesis, which are rich in mineral 


CAVE DE PAZAC, BETWEEN THE 

RHONE AND THE CEVENNES 

elements and promote remarkable minerality and freshness in our wines, particularly 

the whites”. Château Mourgues du Grès’ white wines account for a quarter of 

total production. The white Capitelle label is blended from old-vine Grenache blanc 

grown on limestone soils, with a dash of Roussanne and Viognier. Fermented with 

wild yeast and matured for a year in demi-muids, it delivers intense minerality, 

supported by gorgeous fruit and generous oak influence. 

A little farther North, between the garrigue and the Rhone, the Cave de Pazac is a 

unique co-operative winery. It groups together 9 winegrowers farming 280 ha of 

vines that have been certified HVE since 2020. Jean-Louis Boyer, its director, admits 

that he feels closer to Provencal traditions and culture than to those of Languedoc. 

Although the winery is located between the two Mediterranean appellations, “the 

traditional local language is Provençal, and we are only a few kilometres away 

from the Rhone. We are a full-fledged Rhone appellation”. Once again, the relative 

freshness of the wines comes as a surprise. The explanation lies in the Mistral 

wind and the maritime influence which help cool night time temperatures, thereby 

creating significant diurnal shift. This in turn enhances expression in the Syrah, 

which accounts for over half of the winery’s different blends. The Le Pigeonnier 

Rouge label illustrates the appellation’s marketing success. With a production run 

in excess of 100,000 bottles a year, it displays intense fruitiness and a full, generous 

mouthfeel. Of all the Rhone Valley appellations, Costières de Nîmes posted 

the highest increase in exports in 2021. More than 40% of its wines are shipped 

overseas, with Belgium, the United Kingdom, China and the United States their 

prime export destinations. 


29

RHÔNE VALLEY 

IDENTITY 

LUBERON, BETWEEN THE RHONE 

AND PROVENCE 

THE MANY GEOLOGICAL FRACTURES ACROSS THE VINEYARDS OF CHÂTEAU ISOLETTE 

HAVE CREATED A SIGNIFICANT RANGE OF VINEYARD SITES WHICH ARE ESSENTIAL FOR 

FULLY EXPRESSING THE ART OF BLENDING PRIZED BY RHONE APPELLATIONS 

OLIVIER ROUQUET MATURES HIS SYRAH FOR OVER 18 MONTHS IN USED CASKS IN ORDER 

TO SLOWLY OXYGENATE THEM WITHOUT CONCEALING THEIR FULL FINESSE WITH OVERLY 

OAKED WOOD AROMAS 

Set in the heart of a national park, the Luberon 

wine region extends over the northern and 

southern slopes of its namesake hill range. 

Olivier Rouquet, who manages Château Isolette 

located on the northern slope, explains that 

the Luberon is actually home to two different 

areas with very different weather patterns: “The 

southern slopes, where the vineyards stretch 

down as far as the river Durance, has a much 

more marked Mediterranean influence, with 

higher temperatures both by day and night. In 

the northern part of the Luberon, the Mistral 

wind does not blow as strongly but the vineyards 

benefit more from the nightly downward flow of 

cool air from the Alps. This creates a significant 

diurnal shift that can reach 15 to 20°C. The cool 

nights help preserve acidity and slow down the 

ripening process of the grapes, so that budburst 

and harvesting occur two weeks later than on 

the plains”. The vineyards at Château Isolette 

cover 45 hectares surrounded by 200 hectares of 

woodland. They range between elevations of 300 

to 400 metres, thus benefiting from cool temperatures 

that are dialled up due to the local topography. 

The Luberon wine region is dotted with 

myriad vineyard blocks, very often surrounded 

by forests. This sets the scene for highly developed 

natural biodiversity. Some blocks at 

Château Isolette are located lower down, along 

the banks of the river Calavon, which marks the 

border with AOC Ventoux country. The soils here 

are comprised of marl, which is more fertile 

than on the hillsides. They generally deliver 

supple wines, due to the nature of the soils and 

higher yields. On the northern foothills of the 

Luberon, the vineyards are mainly North-facing, 

at elevations of up to 400 metres. These 

poor soils contain stony scree. Rouquet has a 

categorical definition of the estate’s terroir, 

claiming it is more akin to the Northern than 

to the Southern Rhone. “Syrah thrives on these 

soils and develops characteristics on a par with 

those of the prestigious appellations located 


OLIVIER ROUQUET, 

THE MANAGER OF 

CHÂTEAU ISOLETTE 

SPRING 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 

31

THE DELAY FAMILY WITH 

THE MONT VENTOUX 

IN THE BACKGROUND 

around Tain l’Hermitage. Tension, aromatic concentration and a fine tannin 

structure provide all the requisite ingredients for crafting fine wines from the 

varietal”. Every step is taken to ensure the grapes are processed properly and 

protected in the vineyard and the winery, from night time harvesting to the use 

of small tippers filled with inert dry ice. The maturation process is similarly 

meticulous so that the reductive side of Syrah can be enhanced, with the wines 

matured in used French oak barrels and demi-muids. Ageing lasts from 18 to 

36 months depending on the wine. The aim is to promote slow, progressive 

micro-oxygenation, with very little wood. Château Isolette’s flagship Bohème 

label is complemented by a dash of Grenache to ensure compliance with the 

appellation’s blending rules, but Olivier Rouquet says, “If the AOC allowed me 

to do so, I would produce magnificent single varietal Syrahs”. 

VENTOUX AND ITS MOUNTAIN INFLUENCE 

Forming a semi-circle South of the legendary Mont Ventoux, which peaks 

at 1,912 metres, the Ventoux wine region extends over 5,600 hectares, which 

is more than Costières de Nîmes and the Luberon combined. Ventoux also 

gets a generous amount of sunshine, and like Costières de Nîmes, it is also 

buffeted by the strong Mistral wind. The hilliest north-western area comes 

under the influence of Mont Ventoux, its cool mountain air rushing down the 

slopes by night. Domaine du Bon Remède, located in the foothills of Mont 

Ventoux, benefits from cool nights where temperatures can plummet to around 

15°C in the summer, despite day time temperatures effortlessly exceeding 

30°C. Vincent Delay, the estate’s fourth-generation winegrower who recently 

graduated in oenology, explains the variety of vineyard soils that form his 35-ha 

vineyard: “The sandy soils produce finesse in our whites and rosés, while the 

heavier clay and pebble-strewn soils instil power and concentration in our 


PATRICIA AND JOËL JACQUET 

CRAFT AUTHENTIC WINES THAT 

HAVE BECOME AMBASSADORS 

FOR THEIR VINEYARD SITES AT 

THE FOOT OF MONT VENTOUX 

FARMED BIODYNAMICALLY 

SINCE 2008, DOMAINE DU 

GRAND JACQUET’S OLD VINES 

ARE A MIRROR TO THEIR 

TERROIR 


33

RHÔNE VALLEY 

IDENTITY 

FRUIT IS PICKED LATE AT DOMAINE DE TARA TO PRODUCE THE MI-FIGUE MI-RAISIN 

LABEL, A GORGEOUS ILLUSTRATION OF ITS VINEYARD SITES 

reds”. The Secret de Vincent label, made from 

Syrah with a hint of Grenache, comes from 40 

to 50-year-old vines grown on pebble soils. It 

combines generous fruit with more complex 

mineral and garrigue notes. Its mouth-filling 

volume and finely defined tannins make it a 

superlative wine that will benefit from several 

years’ maturation to fully reveal its potential. 

Just a few kilometres away, Domaine du Grand 

Jacquet is a 15-hectare vineyard located on 

hillsides at elevations ranging from 250 to 

400 metres. Grenache noir takes centre stage at 

this family estate, which has been run based on 

the premise of biodynamic winegrowing since 

2008. “Syrah, which is more fragile, sometimes 

struggles to thrive on these stony soils, which 

are frequently buffeted by the strong Mistral 

wind. It is usually planted on sheltered plots 

farther down”, explains Joël Jacquet, who has 

been farming vines here since 1982. The red Les 

Planètes label, with its generous aromatics, its 

smooth, velvety palate and clear site-expressiveness, 

proved to be very convincing. The 

Grenache noir grapes, which make up 90% of the 

blend, come from a block of 45-year-old vines 

located at an altitude of 300 metres, on clay and 

gravel soils. Its deep roots make it extremely 

drought-resistant. The cooler, windier conditions 

than on the plains yield concentrated 

grapes with thick, light skins. The tannins are 

very supple and adding Syrah gives the wine the 

colour it lacks. Patricia and Joël Jacquet produce 

authentic, generous, balanced wines with a 

distinctive southern identity. 

Farther South, near the Luberon, Domaine de 

Tara has 12 hectares of ochre soil, which is rich 

in nutrients and iron, in some of its vineyards. 

The estate is located in the village of Roussillon, 

once known as the ‘Village of Ochre’ when its 

ochre soil was exported to the Nordic countries 

to combat saltpetre. As a nod to the area’s 

history, Michèle and Patrick Folléa have named 

one of their ranges Terre d’Ocres. The vineyard 

soils lend finesse and delicacy to the wines in the 

range, which are designed for early-drinking. 

The rolling landscape is also home to some great 


RHÔNE VALLEY 

IDENTITY 

clay-limestone hillside vineyards. The estate produces a high proportion of 

white wine compared to the rest of the appellation, with around 30% of its 

output white. Hautes Pierres, a blend of Roussanne and Grenache blanc, shows 

great finesse. The food-friendly white is fermented and matured in oak barrels 

with batonnage for several months, which gives it superb weight and complex, 

persistent aromas that are impeccably balanced by profound freshness. 

A DYNAMIC TRIO WITH DIFFERING CHARACTERS 

The Rhone is an extensive wine region which cannot easily be defined due to 

its multi-faceted make-up, each area displaying its own character. So defining 

what makes Costières de Nîmes, Ventoux and Luberon Rhone appellations 

THE FOLLÉA FAMILY IS AT THE HELM OF DOMAINE DE TARA 


35

CHÂTEAU ISOLETTE IS LOCATED 

IN MAGNIFICENT COUNTRYSIDE 

WITH A DISTINCTIVE 

MEDITERRANEAN FEEL 

may seem complex. The proximity of the Rhone and pebble-strewn vineyard sites 

dotted in many parts of Costières de Nîmes give it a fairly obvious Rhone identity. 

However, the occurrence of garrigue in the North-East, akin to the scrubland found 

in Languedoc, and the clear influence of the Mediterranean Sea on the appellation’s 

weather patterns, argue in favour of a unique Mediterranean identity, forming a 

bridge between Languedoc and Provence. 

The Luberon, which is farther away from the Rhone and where the influence is 

more Alpine, does not seem to have a clear link to the Southern Rhone, except 

culturally through the way the industry is organised around co-operatives and its 

varietal range. Its lifestyle and culture are nevertheless distinctively Provencal, with 

rosé production accounting for over 50% of appellation output, following in the 

footsteps of neighbouring Provence. Despite this, the Luberon is multifaceted and, 

as evidenced by our testimonials, high-elevation stony vineyard sites on the northern 

slopes of the hills around Château Isolette produce extremely attractive Syrahs, in 

the same vein as wines from the southern reaches of the Northern Rhone. 

Lastly, the Ventoux and its broad rolling plains has plenty of convincing arguments 

too. Its microclimate combines good air flow and significant diurnal shift to 

promote the emergence of fresh wines. There are many similarities with the more 

central southern Rhone, clearly lending it a Rhone identity. Nevertheless, its wines 

are often fresher than those of the Côtes du Rhône. Freshness is a common denominator 

across the three appellations, but for different reasons, ranging from maritime 

and alpine influence to elevation and exposure, soils and sub-soils. 

Ultimately, the last noteworthy shared feature is the characteristic drive which fuels 

all three appellations, giving them good potential to continue to move upmarket. 

Less expensive than their more prestigious neighbours, the wines crafted by talented 

producers in these appellations, like those featured here, offer excellent value for 

money and deserve to be discovered without further ado! 


MUSCADET, 

FROM EVOLUTION 

TO REVOLUTION! 

BY JEAN-PAUL BURIAS 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 


With just a single grape variety planted over 8,000 hectares and producing only 

dry white wines, a cursory look at Muscadet might imply something simple. But 

the minute you taste the wines, suddenly the horizon opens up to complex terroirdriven 

offerings, underpinned by recognition of village-designated growths 

in 2011. The endorsement points to the quality of the wines, which should most 

certainly be on your to-try list. 

CHÂTEAU DE LA PREUILLE IS A BENCHMARK ESTATE IN MUSCADET 

LÉGENDES 


37

MUSCADET 

VINEYARDS 

CHÂTEAU DE LA PREUILLE 

With the waves of the Atlantic Ocean breaking 

within earshot and the banks of the Loire 

lining France’s longest river nearby, the birthplace 

of Muscadet ushers in the city of Nantes and its 

storied castle of the Dukes of Brittany. The location 

enhances wines whose true worth deserves to be 

fully recognised. Long maligned for the quality of 

its wines, the local wine industry has grasped the 

nettle and begun to claw the market back. With 

sales on the rise and improved price points, the 

appellation is regaining its market status. With a 

vineyard footprint of 8,000 hectares – which has 

declined in recent years – the appellation has held 

on to its ranking as France’s leading single-variety 

wine region. It is also the only appellation in the 

world made from Melon de Bourgogne, and has 

optimised its production potential, which boasts 

astounding variety. The defining traits of Muscadet-Sèvre-et-Maine 

sur Lie are its freshness, 

finesse, aromas and mineral notes. The wines can 

be enjoyed when young, but also show good ageability. 

Caught up in this virtuous circle, they have 

been given a whole new lease of life. Aromatic, 

accessible and supple, they have become a magnet 

for new, young urban consumers. 

CHRISTIAN DUMORTIER IN HIS VINEYARDS AT CHÂTEAU DE LA PREUILLE 

After many years spent restructuring the 

vineyards in the early 2000s, growers were 

rewarded from 2011 onwards with official recognition 

for ten village-designated growths made 

to extremely stringent production standards – 

this paved the way for a resurgence across the 

region. The ten complementary geographical 

designations sit at the top of the Muscadet 

pyramid and the Nantes wine federation has 

deftly defined them in a single word: Clisson, 

power; Gorges, length; Le Pallet, lushness; 

Goulaine, harmony; Château-Thébaud, finesse; 

Monnières-Saint-Fiacre, fleshiness; Mouzillon-Tillières, 

complexity; La Haye-Fouassière, 

elegance; Vallet, richness; and Champtoceaux, 

silkiness. Each one offers complexity and ageability, 

stemming from extended lees maturation, 

low yields and the site-expressiveness of 

prime, varied vineyards. Long disparaged and 

pigeonholed as inferior, quick-drinking wines for 


TIME FOR CHRISTIAN 

DUMORTIER TO TASTE 

WINES AT CHÂTEAU 

DE LA PREUILLE 

pairing with oysters – which may well be remarkable but is also simplistic – the 

appellation now has its sights clearly set on the future, with characterful wines 

packed with freshness. 

CHÂTEAU DE LA PREUILLE: 

A GREAT INSTITUTION 

Behind the superb feudal castle lie vineyards designed for excellence. Philippe 

and his brother Christian Dumortier, the eleventh generation of a family of winegrowers, 

fully embody the flavour of Muscadet. The name Preuille stems from 

the Latin petra or petrosus which means a stony, rocky place. The vineyard boasts 

outstanding granite soils that lend the wines their hallmark stamp, now incorporated 

into the appellation’s ten village-designated growths. “Since 1986, our aim 

has been to showcase the superior qualities of the grape varieties in the Nantes 

wine region – Melon de Bourgogne for Muscadet and Folle Blanche for Gros-Plantdu-Pays-Nantais”, 

explains Christian Dumortier. “Our different labels sell for very 

affordable prices, well below their level of quality”. Tête de Cuvée, for example, 

displays all the defining features of a top dry white wine, but at a fraction of the 

price of neighbouring appellations. “The vineyards hived off for the label are located 

on hillsides with outstanding sub-soils of porphyroid granite with two micas from 

Clisson”, says Dumortier. “Combined with old vines, these soils deliver low yields 

of around 30 hectolitres, but in return produce wines with lots of concentration”. 

The nose is subtle and encapsulates the Melon de Bourgogne variety. In the glass, 


39

MUSCADET 

VINEYARDS 

the wine is a bright, golden colour then displays full body, complexity and length 

on the palate. This typicity is promoted by the fermentation process, which uses 

a very varied array of wild ferments naturally occurring on the grapes and not 

industrial yeasts. This highly expressive wine, whose incredible ageability is one 

of its defining features, can be found on the finest tables. 

VIGNOBLES VÉRONIQUE 

GÜNTHER-CHÉREAU: 

THE WINNING DUO 

Hard work, the drive for quality and family spirit are virtues that have been 

perpetuated for several generations on this renowned estate. Véronique Günther- 

Chéreau took over from her father in 1989 and was joined by her daughter Aurore, 

a trained winemaker. This efficient duo manages a 75-hectare vineyard that has 

been partly converted to organic winegrowing, across three estates recognised 

as village-designated growths – Château de la Gravelle in Gorges, Château du 

TANK CLEANING DUTY FOR AURORE GÜNTHER 


MUSCADET 

VINEYARDS 

Coing in Saint-Fiacre-sur-Maine and Grand Fief 

de la Cormeraie in Monnières. “Wines showing 

minerality and freshness are experiencing a real 

resurgence”, comments Aurore Günther. “We 

are fortunate that the Muscadet brand is known 

worldwide and is associated with quality”. The 

mineral, floral, light wines offering good value for 

money compared with other French regions have 

fuelled export growth. “Melon de Bourgogne is 

the only grape variety that can be used to produce 

Muscadet, from primeur wines to village-designated 

labels, and this is a strength”, says Véronique 

Günther-Chéreau. “Different terroirs 

produce different white wines depending on the 

soil where the vines are grown. The wines pair well 

with light foods and they have everything it takes 

to grow in export markets. Customers are looking 

for a wine with guaranteed supply, no unreasonable 

price hikes or inventory issues that offer real 

consistency of quality”. 

CHÂTEAU DU COING NESTLED AMONG THE VINES 

PIERRICK AND LANDRY PÉNISSON AT DOMAINE DES ILES 

DOMAINE DES ILES: BUILDING 

ON CLISSON’S LEGACY 

Among the 10 village-designated Muscadet 

growths, Clisson is one of the appellation’s 

high-end names, covering 250 hectares and five 

villages. Ideally located south of the Loire estuary, 

Domaine des Iles is the perfect emblem for this 

increasingly popular growth. Established by Pierre 

Pénisson in 1985 on a small site covering a diminutive 

0.50 hectares, it then benefited from the 

arrival of his two sons Pierrick and Landry after 

they studied viticulture in 2001. Now a family 

business with 7 full-time farm workers and 

seasonal workers, the estate has grown significantly 

over the years to its present-day footprint 

of 170 hectares. “Since 2003, we have been 

using sustainable techniques so that we can treat 

the environment with even greater respect and 

produce the highest quality”, says Pierre Pénisson. 

“Clisson dovetails perfectly with this approach. 

The selected vineyard sites produce light, fruity 

and aromatic wines”. 


41

MUSCADET 

VINEYARDS 

CHÂTEAU DE L’EPINAY: 

GREAT CONSISTENCY 

Château de l’Epinay is located near beautiful leafy river banks and Saint-Fiacre-sur- 

Maine, the French village which has the highest ratio of vineyards to total acreage. 

Damien Robert began operating this family estate with his father in 1986 when he 

made a pledge to show respect for the environment by using earth-friendly, sustainable 

practices. His 23 hectares of vines, entirely destined for growing Muscadet, 

produce real gems sporting a pale gold hue and an appealing nose showing fresh 

fruit aromas, which deliver the characters of a very distinctive terroir on the palate. 

“My priority is to preserve my working environment by farming the vineyards 

sustainably”, he explains. “I try and balance my economic objectives and the 

expectations of my customers in terms of quality with respect for the environment”. 

Damien Robert follows this mantra religiously and welcomed recognition 

of Monnières-Saint-Fiacre as a village-designated growth. His estate lies within 

its boundaries. “It’s a real advantage for the estate and a quality endorsement for 

customers”, he says. “Consumers are more inclined to come and taste our wines”. 

DAMIEN ROBERT, OWNER OF CHÂTEAU DE L’EPINAY 


MUSCADET 

VINEYARDS 

DOMAINE DU HAUT FRESNE: 

ENTER CHAMPTOCEAUX 

PASCAL RENOU AND HIS BROTHER JEAN-LUC WITH HIS SON JÉRÔME 

AT DOMAINE DU HAUT FRESNE 

On sloping hillsides along the Loire, the 

vineyards of Domaine du Haut Fresne are rooted 

in schist and gneiss which lend the wines freshness 

and minerality. They bask in a temperate 

climate, which is both sunnier and less windy 

than in Brittany with its Atlantic influence. 

Founded in 1959 by Michel Renou, the estate was 

taken over by two of his sons, Jean-Luc in 1984 

and Pascal in 1991, before Jérôme, Jean-Luc’s son, 

took over in 2008. The 86 hectares under vine 

have been certified High Environmental Value 

(HVE) since 2020. “We produce fruity wines, with 

good consistency from one year to the next and 

an affordable price tag of between €4 and €10”, 

he explains. “It is true that Muscadet is not very 

popular in France, with vineyard acreage and 

production declining, but we should welcome 

the arrival of a new generation of winegrowers in 

the Coteaux de Loire area who are perpetuating 

traditions”. The estate’s range of 17 wines, spanning 

10 appellations, is extremely palate-pleasing 

and will be further extended following recognition 

of the Champtoceaux growth. This is the 

only Muscadet Coteaux de la Loire growth and it 

allows the wines to masterfully move upmarket 

and provide customers with a real showstopper. 

The 2017 vintage, currently commercially available, 

was matured for 48 months in tanks. 

JÉRÔME AND PASCAL RENOU WITH THE BARRELS AT DOMAINE DU HAUT FRESNE 

DOMAINE CLAUDE MICHEL 

PICHON: BORN INTO WINE 

Now a model for the appellation, Claude-Michel 

Pichon boasts a long-standing career in wine. 

After starting out as a cellar master and buyer 

for a trading company, he succeeded his father 

Raymond in 2009 at the helm of Château La 

Chevillardière and its 88 hectares of vines. He 

expanded the estate by buying up vineyards that 

had been mothballed due to lack of newcomers to 

take them over, and by planting new vines. “Our 

whites show distinctively fresh mineral notes and 


43

CLAUDE MICHEL PICHON 

BORDEAUX 

TRAVEL 


DOMAINE 

CLAUDE MICHEL PICHON 

real typicity, like those of Château de La Chevillardière, which grow on granite and 

mica schist soils”, he says. “Muscadet needs to be better known and although we don’t 

yet produce village-designated growths, there is no denying that the recognition is 

genuinely meaningful for the public who is not necessarily familiar with our wines”. 

DRILLING DOWN INTO TERROIR 

The image of Muscadet has long been understated, which has had consequences in 

terms of quality. The work carried out over the last few years, however, both in winery 

management and product marketing and promotion has helped reverse the trend. Many 

estates have been restructured, which has clearly dialled up the quality of the wines – 

their excellent value for money is also undeniable. Muscadet has carved out a place for 

itself as a genuine terroir-driven wine, showing unmistakable honesty. Though ideal as 

an aperitif, it is also a great classic with seafood and pairing partner for white meats and 

some cheeses. Ironically, the low price points of some producers have done it a disservice, 

leading consumers to wrongly associate it with an entry-level wine. The village-designated 

growths are helping to reverse this downward spiral and put an end to misconceptions, 

so that Muscadet can be placed on a par with other fine white wines. “The advent 

of the growths and enormous amount of work that has gone into recognising the local 

terroir have bolstered the reputation of Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur Lie”, feels Véronique 

Günther-Chéreau, owner of the namesake vineyards. “It is no longer considered 

as a simple bar wine but one suitable for gourmet food. It has established its pedigree, 

although in my opinion, there is still a lack of awareness of Muscadet in France, outside 

its home region”. Muscadet is multi-faceted and promoting its variety can only be viewed 

positively. Entry-level labels thrive alongside gourmet-food and age-worthy bottlings, 

along with the more recent village-designated growths. These have brought a real breath 

of fresh air to the wine proposition as trends favour dry, delicate, lower-alcohol, refreshing 

white wines which have all the requisite qualities to appeal to new consumers. 


45

FRANCIACORTA, THE SYMBOL 

OF ITALIAN TRADITIONAL 

METHOD SPARKLING WINE 

BY FRANCESCO SAVERIO RUSSO 

PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF THE 

ESTATES, © MATTIA AQUILA, 

© GIUSEPPE LA SPADA 

After becoming a DOC in 1967, then securing the highly coveted DOCG 

endorsement in 1997, Franciacorta has gone from strength to strength. We drill 

down on what makes it so unique, and the producers behind this highly soughtafter 

traditional method sparkling wine. 

THE MAJESTIC 19 TH -CENTURY CASTLE IN COCCAGLIO HAD BEEN OWNED BY THE BONOMI FAMILY SINCE 1910 

AND BECAME PART OF THE CASA PALADIN GROUP IN 2008 


ITALY 

APPELLATION 

T 

he historic Italian wine region of Franciacorta is located in the heart of Lombardy, near the city of 

Milan. Situated on the shores of Lake Iseo, it covers some 200 square kilometres and encompasses 

19 localities in the Province of Brescia. The name Franciacorta is probably linked to the arrival of the 

Cluniac monks and their ‘Francae Curtes’, meaning an area with no taxes on trade. The region, which 

is mostly hilly, was formed by glaciers retreating over 10,000 years ago, creating the Sebino Morainic 

Amphitheatre which is home to the vineyards of Franciacorta. The area’s recent history began in 1961 

with the production of the first sparkling wine using the traditional method. In 1967, it became the 

first Italian sparkling wine to be awarded DOC certification. Thanks to the work of the consortium 

(established in 1990) it obtained DOCG certification in 1995. The consortium also pushed for the area 

to be divided into zones. This was achieved with the support of the Agricultural University of Milan, 

thereby making it possible to identify micro-areas with different soils and climates which are suitable 

for different grape varieties. The present-day area is home to approximately 2,800 hectares of Franciacorta 

DOCG vineyards planted with 82% Chardonnay, 14% Pinot Noir and 4% Pinot Blanc. 

According to regulations, Franciacorta can only be produced from Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot 

Blanc grapes (to a maximum of 50%). In 2017, the use of the Erbamat grape variety was also permitted. 

This indigenous variety is very useful for giving the wines acidity, thereby countering the effects of 

climate change. Yields may not exceed 100 quintals/ha and the harvest must be carried out by hand. 

The Franciacorta designation in fact covers different styles: 

- Franciacorta NV, which has to age for at least 18 months on the lees; 

- Franciacorta Satèn and Franciacorta Rosé NV, which have to age for at least 24 months on the lees; 

- Franciacorta Vintage, Franciacorta Satèn Vintage and Franciacorta Rosé Vintage, which have to age 

for at least 30 months on the lees; 

- Franciacorta Riserva, Franciacorta Riserva Satèn and Franciacorta Riserva Rosé, which have to age 

for at least 60 months on the lees. 

Satèn is a particular style that can only be made from Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc grapes (to a 

maximum of 50%). It is only allowed to have 4.5 atmospheres of pressure which makes it ‘silky’. 


47

ITALY 

APPELLATION 

Franciacorta can be made to different levels of 

sweetness: Zero Dosage, Extra Brut, Brut, Extra 

Dry, Sec or Dry, Demi-Sec. 

Today, the name Franciacorta is synonymous with 

the area, the production method and the wine itself, 

so much so that a European law prohibits the use of 

the word ‘Spumante’ (meaning ‘sparkling wine’) to 

describe it, just as with Champagne. 

Below is a selection of the leading Franciacorta 

producers. 

THE UNFORGETTABLE WINEMAKER FRANCO ZILIANI AND THE FIRST BOTTLE OF PINOT 

DI FRANCIACORTA VINTAGE 1961 

THE CHARMING CASTELLO VINEYARD, ONE HECTARE OF ORGANIC VINES ON THE SLOPES 

OF THE MEDIEVAL MANOR OF BORGONATO 

BERLUCCHI 

The history of Franciacorta began with the story of 

Guido Berlucchi, who created the area’s first traditional 

method wine in 1961. In 1955, Guido Berlucchi 

called the very young winemaker Franco Ziliani for 

advice on how to improve his small production of 

white wine. Ziliani met Guido, tasted his wine and 

had the idea of producing sparkling wine. It was 

his dream to produce an Italian wine using the 

traditional method and he achieved this in 1961. 

Ziliani was also ahead of the curve in his choice of 

name: ‘Pinot di Franciacorta’, to emphasise the link 

between the wine and the land. This ‘start-up’ paved 

the way for all subsequent companies. 

In 2021, the Berlucchi company turned 60, coinciding 

with the number of years that have passed since that 

first bottle of Franciacorta. Today, Franco Ziliani’s 

children share the workload in the company they 

have owned since 2017. Cristina handles marketing 

and hospitality, Arturo is winemaker and managing 

director and Paolo is tasked with sales and exports. 

This important company remains family-run and 

faithful to its original values, focusing on producing 

the highest quality but also displaying a strong awareness 

of the modern requirements for sustainability. 

Berlucchi produces wine from approximately 

550 hectares of vineyards, 115 of them owned by the 

family and the remainder managed by winegrowing 

partners. The grapes are divided between around 

85% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Noir. 

The company produces 4 Franciacorta lines: 

- Cuvée Imperiale - Berlucchi’s historic and versatile 

range, with 6 Franciacorta labels covering 

almost all styles: Demi-sec, Brut, Rosé, Saten, Zero 

Dosage and Vintage. 

- ‘61 Numero Primo - non-vintage Franciacorta, in 

the Extra Brut, Saten and Rosé styles, aged for two 


FRANCO ZILIANI’S THREE 

CHILDREN, CRISTINA, 

ARTURO AND PAOLO ARE 

THE DRIVING FORCE BEHIND 

BERLUCCHI’S SHIFT TO 

SUSTAINABILITY 


49

ITALY 

APPELLATION 

CA’ DEL BOSCO ARTS: THE WEIGHT OF TIME SUSPENDED BY STEFANO BOMBARDIERI 

years in the bottle; very balanced but not excessively 

complex. 

- 61 Nature - non-vintage Franciacorta, in the Brut 

Nature, Nature Blanc de Blancs and Nature Rosé 

styles. Matured for 5 years in the bottle on the lees. 

- Palazzo Lana Extrême - the Franciacorta Riserva 

aged for at least 10 years in the bottle on the lees. 

The Extrême version is 100% Pinot Noir with an 

Extra Brut level of sweetness. This line is the jewel 

in the company’s crown. 

Commercially, the main market continues to be 

within Italy, but the company is working successfully 

to make Franciacorta known in Northern Europe, the 

USA and Japan. 

CA’ DEL BOSCO 

MAURIZIO ZANELLA, THE FOUNDER AND PRESIDENT OF CA’ DEL BOSCO 

It was the mid-1960s when Annamaria Clementi 

Zanella bought a small country house in Erbusco 

surrounded by trees. A few years later, the foresight 

of her son Maurizio transformed that property 

into one of the most important wineries in Italy 

where nature fuses with art. For Maurizio Zanella, 

founder and president of Ca’ del Bosco, “Franciacorta 

is a unique territory. This small wine region 

was already known in the early 1800s, as recorded 

in the Napoleonic land registry, but it blossomed in 

the late 1960s. Over the years, a fixed set of principles 

have always been followed, aimed at achieving 

quality, and this has resulted in a unique and 

recognisable style”. There is a strong focus on sustainability 

as evidenced by the fact that «today a large 

number of the vineyards are certified organic”, as 

Zanella points out. 

As for the Ca’ del Bosco winery itself, the grape 

varieties grown over some 230 hectares of Franciacorta 

DOCG vineyards are 64.5% Chardonnay, 30.0% 

Pinot Noir, 5.0% Pinot Blanc and 0.5% Erbamat. 

The vineyards are managed in accordance with the 

principles and constraints dictated by the Lombardy 

Region’s Rural Development Plan and the organic 

certification scheme. This implies a complete ban 

on the use of dangerous substances with a high 

environmental impact – only organic fertilisation 

can be used; harmful insects must be controlled 

organically; soil management is based on permanent 

grassing with a focus on preserving natural 

soil fertility; and only agronomic techniques can be 

used for disease prevention. 


STEFANO CAPELLI, THE WINEMAKER AT CA’ DEL BOSCO 

CA’ DEL BOSCO ARTS: WATER IN DRIPPING BY ZHENG LU 

In the cellar, nothing is left to chance and the winery has managed to strike the perfect balance 

between tradition and innovation. Many improvements have been introduced over the years such 

as the use of a special grape washing system and a corking machine that eliminates oxygen during 

disgorgement. Some of these pioneering designs have been patented by Ca’ del Bosco itself, in 

order to produce wines that are increasingly clean and expressive of their regional identity, whilst 

mirroring the company’s signature style. 

Production is divided into 8 Franciacorta labels: Cuvée Prestige Edition (extra brut), Cuvée Prestige 

Edition Rosé (extra brut), Vintage Collection Extra Brut, Vintage Collection Zero Dosage, Vintage 

Collection Satèn (brut), Vintage Collection Zero Dosage Noir, Annamaria Clementi (zero dosage) 

and Annamaria Clementi Rosé (extra brut). 

The company exports around 20% of its wines, primarily to the USA, Japan, Switzerland, Germany 

and the UK but it has a presence in more than 60 countries. 

CASA PALADIN – CASTELLO BONOMI 

The majestic castle, built in the 19 th century in Coccaglio at 275 metres above sea level, has been 

owned by the Bonomi family since 1910. It became part of the Paladin family’s ‘Casa Paladin’ group 

in 2008. Roberto and Carlo Paladin are at the helm of the company, which is committed to carrying 

on centuries-old winemaking traditions with the help of a highly experienced team of the calibre of 

Leonardo Valenti, lecturer at Milan State University, and Luigi Bersini, cellar master. Together, they 

produce wines using a modern approach while staying true to their roots and regional identity. 

The South-facing vineyards, on the slopes of Monte Orfano, grow on calcareous soils with rocky 

substrates. The climate and soil lend the wines richness, structure and complexity. 

Pinot Noir (30%), Erbamat (5%) and Chardonnay (60%) are grown, as well as some red grape varieties 

to make red wine. 


51

ITALY 

APPELLATION 

SINCE 1962, THE PALADIN FAMILY HAS GROWN ITS VINEYARD ACREAGE BY ACQUIRING 

NEW PROPERTIES IN THE MOST SUITABLE ITALIAN REGIONS 

Castello Bonomi subscribes to a philosophy of 

lengthy bottle ageing. 

- Cuveè 22: 100% Chardonnay Franciacorta made 

from 22 different crus, which is aged in the bottle 

for 36 months; 

- Cru Perdu (70% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir): 

Castello Bonomi’s iconic Franciacorta, which 

comes from a ‘cru’ that was lost and then rediscovered. 

It is aged for over 72 months on the lees 

and for some vintages the Grand vintage is also 

available. 

- Franciacorta Saten (100% Chardonnay) - aged for 

over 50 months; 

- Franciacorta Rosè (100% Pinot Noir) - aged for over 

36 months on the lees; 

- Zero Dosage (50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot 

Noir) - aged for over 80 months on the lees; 

- Cuveè 1564 (40% Erbamat, 30% Chardonnay, 30% 

Pinot Noir); 

- Franciacorta Cuveè 22 Brut Nature (10% Erbamat, 

45% Chardonnay and 45% Pinot Noir). 

- Franciacorta Riserva ‘Lucrezia’: ‘Etichetta Bianca’ 

70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir - aged for 

over 102 months on the lees; ‘Etichetta Nera’ 100% 

Chardonnay aged for between 170-220 months. 

Castello Bonomi’s target markets are the domestic 

market, but it also focuses on exports to Switzerland 

and Germany. 

UGO VEZZOLI 

UGO VEZZOLI’S FRANCIACORTA WINES ARE AGED ON THE LEES IN 

A TEMPERATURE-CONTROLLED ENVIRONMENT 

The Vezzoli family has been farming since the 

18th century, but the turning point came in the 

1980s when Gianlorenzo Vezzoli planted the first 

vineyards. Within a few years, he had created 

processing, ageing and office facilities in the rural 

area of the property. His son Ugo then joined him as 

co-owner, with help from Gianlorenzo’s wife Rosita 

and his other son Gian Battista. In recent years, 

with the involvement of grandsons Gian Lorenzo 

and Alessandro in marketing and operational tasks, 

the production of Franciacorta DOCG has increased 

to 30,000 bottles. Two different facilities for events 

and tastings have been created inside the family 

home which sits in grounds with centuries-old 

trees. 

The company owns approximately 5 hectares of 

vineyards which are divided between 3 hectares of 

Chardonnay Franciacorta DOCG, 0.6 hectares of 


ITALY 

APPELLATION 

Pinot Noir Franciacorta DOCG and 0.4 hectares of 

Pinot Noir (to make red wine). 

The range is as follows: 

- The Satèn is made from 100% Chardonnay Franciacorta 

DOCG; 

- The Rosè is made from 100% Pinot Nero Franciacorta 

DOCG; 

- The Brut is made from 80% Chardonnay and 20% 

Pinot Noir fermented as white wine for the base 

blend, most of which will be used for the Brut 

Franciacorta DOCG. After increased ageing on the 

lees, the remainder becomes Vintage Zero Dosage. 

- The Pinot Nero IGT is used to produce the 

high-quality sparkling wine ‘Rosita’, which is aged 

for at least 60 months on the lees. 

The core market is essentially Italy, primarily areas 

such as Tuscany, Lombardy, Liguria and Lazio. 

Exports are focused on Switzerland and Northern 

Europe. 

TWO DIFFERENT FACILITIES FOR EVENTS AND TASTINGS HAVE BEEN CREATED INSIDE THE 

VEZZOLI FAMILY HOME, SURROUNDED BY A GARDEN WITH CENTURIES-OLD TREES 

NELSON CENCI, FOUNDER OF VIGNETI CENCI 

LA BOSCAIOLA – VIGNETI CENCI 

Azienda Agricola La Boscaiola - Vigneti Cenci was 

the brainchild of Nelson Cenci, a doctor, writer and 

member of the Alpine troops. After World War II, 

Nelson reunited in Cologne, Franciacorta, with 

other members of his Alpine regiment who had 

survived the disastrous operations in Russia. In the 

1950s, with the help of his fellow soldiers, Nelson 

Cenci renovated a mid-19th century farmhouse 

and vineyards and began to nurture his passion 

for winegrowing. 

In the 1960s, the company resumed wine production 

which had been put on hold due to the war 

20 years earlier. Today, Giuliana and Maurizio, 

Nelson’s daughter and grandson, continue to lead 

the family in pursuit of excellence, making wines 

with very low sulphites. They craft pure, elegant 

Franciacorta with low levels of sweetness that do 

not obscure the wine and allow it to tell the story of 

the family and the land where it came from. 

All the wines are made from grapes grown in the 

estate’s vineyards on the slopes of Monte Orfano. 

These include old Pinot Blanc vines, the estate’s 

crowning glory, which are up to 70 years old. 

Over the years, new Chardonnay and Pinot Noir 

vineyards have been planted. The terroir at Monte 

Orfano basks in a dry, sunny Mediterranean 

climate with good ventilation, and instils the wines 


53

ITALY 

APPELLATION 

GIULIANA AND MAURIZIO, DAUGHTER AND GRANDSON OF COMPANY FOUNDER NELSON 

CENCI, CONTINUE TO LEAD THE FAMILY IN THE PURSUIT OF EXCELLENCE 

with minerality. All of them are produced using the 

‘Solo Uva’ or ‘only grapes’ technique, where must 

from their own grapes is used in both the tirage and 

dosage, meaning that the wine is produced with no 

added sugar. This technique also means that the 

grapes can be harvested when they have reached 

full phenolic ripeness. 

7 styles are produced: La Capinera Brut, La Via della 

Seta Saten, Zero Dosage, La Capinera Rosè Brut, 

Nelson Cenci Extra Brut, Sessanta Vintage Brut 

and Nelson Cenci ‘L’Insolita Annata’ Vintage Brut. 

In terms of markets, 75% of the wines are sold 

within Italy, mainly to the hospitality industry. 

The remaining 25% is exported to Switzerland, 

the United States, the United Kingdom, Belgium, 

Germany, Hong Kong and Japan. 

CASTEL FAGLIA 

WINEMAKER SANDRO CAVICCHIOLI SUPERVISES THE ENTIRE FRANCIACORTA 

WINEMAKING PROCESS AT CASTEL FAGLIA 

Castel Faglia, which was founded in 1989 and is 

now owned by the Cavicchioli family, is located in 

Calino, a hamlet of Cazzago San Martino, in the 

centre of Franciacorta. The estate takes its name 

from the castle of the former owner, Colonel 

Umberto Faglia. It is situated on a hill of morainic 

origin at 300 m above sea level. The partly terraced 

vineyards stretch across its slopes. The perfect 

aspect, stony soils and special microclimate define 

the estate’s wines. 

The company’s philosophy is aimed at creating 

Franciacorta wines with a strong regional identity, 

showing respect for the quality of the grapes 

and winemaking traditions. The Castel Faglia 

style is based on the constant quest for harmony 

between intensity and freshness, personality and 

drinkability. To achieve this, the vines are grown 

with utmost respect shown for the ecosystem 

and the vineyard. The grapes are harvested entirely 

by hand in crates and only the best clusters 

are selected. In the cellar, under the watchful 

eye of winemaker Sandro Cavicchioli, the grapes 

are gently crushed (only free-run juice is used to 

produce Franciacorta) and the wines are blended 

to create a balance between complexity, aromatics, 

body, finesse, character and stylistic consistency. 

Using grapes from local producers, the company’s 

range runs the gamut in terms of Franciacorta 

styles, from the basic level to vintage, under its two 

brands ‘Castel Faglia’ (for super and hypermarkets) 


DR. JOSKA BIONDELLI, 

THE OWNER AND INSPIRING 

CREATOR AND MANAGER OF 

CANTINE BIONDELLI 

and ‘Monogram’ (for the hospitality sector.) The 17-hectare estate’s varietal range is 90% Chardonnay, 

with a balance of Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir. The wine is mainly sold in Italy with small 

quantities exported to the USA, Japan and England. 

BIONDELLI 

The Biondelli family’s farmstead, whose centrepiece is a 16 th century farmhouse, is situated in 

Bornato, an ancient village in the heart of Franciacorta. Today, the historical estate is a modern 

company equipped with the most advanced winemaking facilities. The aim is to produce excellent 

wines from a perfect fusion of tradition and modernity, starting with organically farmed vineyards. 

The winery’s success is due to a very flexible and dynamic team revolving around owner and inspiring 

creator Dr. Joska Biondelli, now assisted by his wife Francesca. Marta Uberti is tasked with both the 

vineyards and work in the winery, Dr. Cesare Ferrari is consultant winemaker and Michele Ugolini 

is the company’s sales manager. 

For the fruit, significant emphasis has been placed on Chardonnay, varying rootstock and clones 

depending on the agronomic characteristics. The only exception is the Pinot Noir used to produce 

the Rosé Donna Clemy, which comes from an authentic ‘cru’ dedicated to growing this challenging, 

but extraordinary variety. 

Biondelli produces 5 different styles of Franciacorta Docg: 

- Biondelli Brut NV, 100% organic Chardonnay; 

- Biondelli Satén NV, 100% organic Chardonnay; 

- Première Dame Vintage Zero Dosage 2015, 100% organic Chardonnay; 

- Donna Clemy Rosé Vintage, 100% organic Pinot Noir; 

- Cavalier Beccaria Riserva 2010, 100% Chardonnay, Limited Edition, last disgorgement 2017, aged 

for 72 months on the lees. 

85% of the wines are sold in Italy but Biondelli is witnessing an increase in exports to Japan, Germany, 

Holland and England. 

Franciacorta has demonstrated its ability to constantly ramp up its level of quality. Increasingly, 

vineyards are farmed sustainably and export markets are growing. Developing exports is considered 

a necessity due to increased sparkling wine production within Italy and the desire to bolster 

international awareness of a designation that symbolises traditional method Italian sparkling wine. 


55

ARE GERMAN WINES 

THE WINNERS OF GLOBAL 

WARMING? 

BY MATTHIAS NESKE 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 

COURTESY OF THE ESTATES, 

© MATTHIAS NESKE 

So far in 2022, Germany is experiencing the hottest and, above all, driest summer 

since weather records began. Weeks without any rain, forest fires, historically low 

river levels and shallow-rooted plants withered - all the result of 40 days at over 

30°C. Under these conditions, it seems a little cynical to call Germany a possible 

‘winner of global warming’. But climate is a long-term matter, and many people 

– German winegrowers included – quickly forget that only a year ago, in early 

summer 2021, they had complained about fungal pressure in the vineyards caused 

by high rainfall and humidity. 

HEAT AND DROUGHT ARE CAUSING TROUBLE FOR SMALL SOUTH-FACING VINEYARDS IN THE MOSEL VALLEY 


GERMANY 

CLIMATE 

HARVESTING CHARDONNAY GRAPES BY HAND IN RHEINHESSEN. THIS IS ONE OF THE MOST PROMISING VARIETIES 

So what has made German viticulture special over the last 20 years? Has there 

been a transformation from cool to ideal conditions for winegrowing? How have 

preferences for grape varieties changed? Five German wineries and their wines offer 

some answers to these questions. 

THE STORY SO FAR 

Winegrowing has been practised in Germany for at least 2,000 years. For a long 

time situated on the northern border of winegrowing, the climatic situation shaped 

both the choice of cultivation areas and legal regulations. Viticulture in Germany has 

always involved a struggle to achieve ripeness, which is why the most famous sites 

are steep and south-facing, to absorb as much sunlight and warmth as possible. This 

is also why the German Prädikatswein system of the 20 th century was solely based 

on the sugar content of the grapes. The riper, i.e. the higher the sugar content of the 

must, the better the quality of the wine. 

Perhaps it is no coincidence that in an era of global warming, the new German wine 

law has taken a turn in its philosophy – moving away from the dictates of grape 

ripeness and towards the Burgundian pyramid of terroir qualities with regional, 

village and single vineyard wines. 


57

GERMANY 

CLIMATE 

GERMANY’S WINE INDUSTRY 

Germany has 13 wine regions, mainly in the south-west of the country, among which 

Rheinhessen and the Palatinate have the largest vineyard acreage. With 103,000 ha 

under vine, the country ranks 14 th worldwide, but has seen its area increase by 8.4% in 

the last 30 years. The most widely grown grape varieties are Riesling (stable acreage), 

Pinot Noir (significantly increasing) and Müller-Thurgau (significantly decreasing). 

Two thirds of the grape varieties remain white, while the red wine boom of the 2000s 

has weakened a little in recent years. The biggest winners over the last two decades 

are Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris, both of which have doubled their area under vine. 

What isn‘t yet strongly reflected in the statistics are experiments with ‘southern’ grape 

varieties, which are primarily evident among red grapes. Thanks to global warming, 

Merlot has now statistically reached 20th position (790 ha country-wide), and Cabernet-Sauvignon 

22nd. Steep-slope projects, co-financed by the government, have seen 

grape varieties such as Nero d’Avola and Tannat be put into the ground. German 

Syrah, too, has entered the winegrowing world with some remarkable examples. 

Another trend is that of newly propagated fungus-resistant grape varieties (hybrids) 

which are also gaining considerable traction. 

EVENING LIGHT ON KIRCHENSTÜCK IN PALATINATE, PROBABLY THE MOST PRESTIGIOUS SITE FOR DRY RIESLING IN ALL OF GERMANY 


GERMANY 

CLIMATE 

By contrast, grape varieties such as Müller-Thurgau, 

Kerner and Bacchus, which made Germany the 

world record-holder in terms of yield per hectare, 

have finally lost ground. The varieties were not only 

notorious mass producers, they were also marked 

by thin skins and early ripening. As the mercury 

soars (and customers become more demanding), 

none of these characteristics are particularly 

advantageous. 

A SIGN OF GLOBAL WARMING - A LIZARD IN THE MOSEL VALLEY 

FEELING THE HEAT 

When referring to the effects of global warming 

on German viticulture, it is helpful to first look 

at the corresponding data – in this case using 

the example of the Franconian wine metropolis 

of Würzburg. 

The diagram clearly shows that you can actually 

distinguish between two periods in the development 

of temperatures. From the Second World 

War until about 1987, there was no increase in 

annual mean temperatures at all. Only by the 

end of the 1980s did a noticeable rise begin. 

Since then, it has become almost 2°C warmer on 

average per year. It sometimes seems that people 

often don‘t realise that these 2°C are not limited 

to a one-time event. In fact (and in simple 

terms), it means 2°C more every day and every 

night, which is a dramatic amount. Moreover, 

the rising temperatures apply to every single 

month of the year. July and August, when the 

grapes ripen, show a particularly strong increase. 

Does this also mean that it has become drier in 

Germany? Currently, this does not tally up with 

the numbers. Only April and June show significant 

declines. In midsummer, on the other hand, 

there is just as much rainfall as there was in the 

1950s. However, weather periods in general, and 

thus also dry spells, are becoming longer and 

longer. 

Above all, one thing has changed and it is 

connected with the rise in temperatures: higher 

air temperatures mean higher absorption capacity 

of moisture. Only when the air is saturated 

with water does rainfall start, in summer more 


59

GERMANY 

CLIMATE 

and more frequently as heavy rain. The soil cannot absorb these floods quickly and 

the water is dissipated and ultimately hardly benefits the plants. So although the 

amount of precipitation has remained virtually unchanged, the effects of a thunderstorm 

versus steady rain are highly different. 

THE IMPACT ON VITICULTURE 

After the ‘lean’ wine years of the 1960s and 1970s, ripeness (with the exception of 2010, 

the only ‘cold’ year of the 21st century) is rarely a problem for German winegrowing 

anymore. This does not only apply to the micro-climatically favoured locations, but to 

practically the entire country. It is no wonder that many regional winegrowing associations 

see Germany as a winner of global warming. 

Apart from climate, other factors have contributed to the enormous quality upswing 

in German winegrowing over the last two decades. 

One is the Geisenheim University of Applied Sciences in the Rheingau, a training institution 

where almost all young winemakers from ambitious wineries meet. This has 

ensured that the latest scientific findings in viticulture and oenology, boosted by international 

exchanges, have found their way into Germany’s top wine estates. The choice 

of high-quality grape varieties (especially Riesling and Pinot Noir), yield reduction, 

harvesting of healthy fruit, wild ferments, ageing in traditional wooden barrels and a 

more hands-off approach to winemaking – these are all aspects of the new generation’s 

toolbox. 

Additionally, an increasing proportion of wine enthusiasts are prepared to pay more for 

high-quality products – and that is no mean revolution in notoriously stingy Germany. 

All in all, it is fair to say that there have never been as many good wines in Germany as 

there are at the moment. 

HARVESTING RIESLING GRAPES 

IN THE PALATINATE 

PINOT NOIR GRAPES, READY FOR HARVEST 

IN THE FIRST WEEK OF SEPTEMBER 2022 


GERMANY 

CLIMATE 

GERMAN WINES PUT THROUGH 

THEIR PACES BY 

GILBERT & GAILLARD 

THE TEAM OF RUPPERTSBERG WINE CELLAR FINDING THEIR WAY 

Ruppertsberg Wine Cellar/Palatinate 

The Ruppertsberg co-operative was established in 

1911, merging with that of Hoheburg in 1968. Today, 

86 member winegrowers farm a total 400 hectares 

of vines in Ruppertsberg and can draw on a storied 

terroir. Excavations suggest that the Romans were 

already growing vines at the intersection of two 

roads near Ruppertsberg. The winery can even 

boast a top vineyard site, embodied by Ruppertsberger 

Reiterpfad. Geologically, the uplift of the 

strata at the edge of the Rhine Graben brought 

shell limestone in a strongly dissolved form to the 

surface, while sandstone dominates the subsoil. 

The most important grape variety - as in the Palatinate 

as a whole - is Riesling, but the Ruppertsberg 

varietal portfolio is broad. It includes white as well 

as red varieties and ranges from sweet whites in 

litre bottles to high-quality examples of Riesling, 

Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Due to its felicitous 

historical and climatic location, the Rieslings often 

show ripe apricot fruit as a counterpoint to the 

minerality of the soil. 

LIKE A NUMBER OF RENOWNED PRODUCERS IN GERMANY, 

WEINGUT SCHÖNLAUB USES FRENCH OAK 

Schönlaub/Palatinate 

The Schönlaub winery is located in Gleiszellen in 

Southern Palatinate. What may seem like a regional 

marginalia has not inconsiderable significance in 

Germany’s second largest wine region. Wines, wine 

tradition and terroir have a character that clearly 

differs from the more northerly sub-region of 

‘Mittelhaardt’. The winery itself has existed for 250 

years, but it was not until 1949 that the Schönlaubs 

decided to bottle the wines themselves instead of 

selling them in barrels. In 2007, the estate established 

its own quality system, which awards 

the wines between one and three stars. This also 

involves specific measures such as sizeable yield 

reduction and hand harvesting in the three-star 

category called ‘Fingerprint’. 

60% of the Schönlaub family’s wines are white 

which, conversely, means quite a high proportion 

of red wines. These include, for example, the 


61

JOCHEN NEHER AND 

SAYNUR SONKAYA-NEHER 

PRODUCE REMARKABLE 

RHEINGAU RIESLINGS 

BORDEAUX 

TRAVEL 

THE TEAM OF WEINGUT 

STUDIER IN THE CELLAR 


GERMANY 

CLIMATE 

Sankt Laurent (an old Palatine-Austrian grape 

variety) from the ‘Fingerprint’ series, whose current 

vintage is actually 2012. A traditional speciality in 

the Southern Palatinate is also the Muskateller (aka 

Muscat blanc à petits grains), Alsace after all, lurks 

just around the corner. 

JOCHEN NEHER OF WEINGUT MOHR IN ONE OF HIS STEEP RHEINGAU VINEYARDS 

Mohr/Rheingau 

To the west of Frankfurt lies the Rheingau, perhaps 

Germany’s most important wine region historically 

– although in terms of acreage it only ranks 8th. 

Here, Riesling is the uncrowned king with 78% of 

area under vine, followed by the famous Spätburgunder 

– aka Pinot noir – from Assmannshausen. 

These two grape varieties make up the majority of 

the Mohr winery’s ten hectares. Located in the far 

west beyond the Rhine bend, Jochen Neher and 

his wife Saynur have been farming their certified 

vineyards organically for almost a decade. 

On slopes like the Assmannshäuser Höllenberg 

in particular, with a gradient of up to 70%, this 

approach implies a lot of manual work. The yields 

are low and the vines up to 80 years old – the Mohr 

winery is an uncompromising quality grower. 

In the municipal areas of Lorch and Assmannshausen 

vines grow on various slate formations 

interspersed with quartzite veins. Not a single 

square metre is flat here. The Nehers produce a 

Großes Gewächs Riesling from each of the Lorch 

vineyards Krone, Schlossberg and Bodental-Steinberg. 

While the Höllenberg is traditionally reserved 

for Pinot Noir, there is also an orange wine made 

from Pinot Blanc in addition to a high-quality 

sparkler. 

OFF ROAD ON TRACK - THE TEAM OF WEINGUT STUDIER, PALATINATE 

Studier/Palatinate 

With the organically certified Studier Winery from 

Ellerstadt, a third winery from the Palatinate has 

added its wines to our list. Ellerstadt is located in 

the Northern Palatinate, where Reinhard Studier’s 

team grows its vines on the soils along the plain. 

Historically, these were the ‘lesser’ sites because 

they had neither the barren minerality nor the steep 

southern exposure of other vineyards. An exception 

is the Kirchenstück with its sandy loess loam which 

is able to produce remarkable wines. In addition is 


63

GERMANY 

CLIMATE 

the issue of whether more compact soils like loess that dry out less quickly might be a more 

promising option in the future. 

When labelling its lines, the Studier winery plays with its name, which literally means 

‘study’! The Bachelor line features the simpler wines and the Master line the higher quality 

examples. Finally, there is the # line with experimental wines, where winemaker Aleksandra 

Frank plays with elements such as maceration time, concrete eggs or large barrels. 

Einig-Zenzen/Mosel 

The Mosel region, which is steeped in tradition and gifted with spectacular scenery, is 

represented by the Einig-Zenzen estate. Incidentally, Zenzen has nothing to do with 

‘Zen’, but is simply the name of the owner’s family (pronounced: tsenn-tsenn). As is not 

uncommon in the Mosel, brothers Peter-Josef and Heinz-Rudolf Zenzen are the 13th generation 

of winegrowers since 1636 to have been at the helm. A decisive twist in the history 

was the decision, made almost 80 years ago, to primarily operate as a wine merchant 

(négociant-éleveur). As early as 1971, the company no longer limited itself to local wines, 

but also began importing wines from Australia – far ahead of future trends – and nine 

years later from Chile. 

With new tanks and a bag-in-box filling line, the company has always been at the cutting 

edge. Recently, however, a new direction was taken. In 2019, the Zenzen family leased the 

historic Kloster Ebernach vineyard in Cochem on the other bank of the Mosel. In this way, 

in addition to internationally-focused wines such as Merlot from Rheinhessen or Sauvignon 

Blanc from South Africa, the Zenzens also produce classic Mosel Rieslings from their 

own vineyards. The 8 ha of the Ebernach monastery are almost exclusively planted with 

Riesling, including the monopoles Bischofsstuhl and Sonnenberg. The resultant semi-dry 

and sweet Rieslings encapsulate a large chunk of German wine history. 

OLD STYLE ‘VERTICAL FARMING’ - STEEP TERRACES IN THE MOSEL VALLEY NEAR THE EINIG-ZENZEN ESTATE 


GERMANY 

CLIMATE 

GLEISZELLEN IN PALATINATE - LAST STOP BEFORE THE BIG FOREST 

RED SLATE WITH UMLAUT - ÜRZIGER WÜRZGARTEN IN THE MOSEL VALLEY 

IS CLIMATE CHANGE A DOUBLE-EDGED SWORD? 

For a long time, Germany was on the northern border of viticulture. This meant that optimal 

grape ripening was not guaranteed every year and certainly not in all locations. Global 

warming has virtually wiped away this challenge, especially in the last 20 years. An annual 

average temperature increase of 2°C means smooth ripening and a harvest well before the 

vagaries of autumn weather rear their head. 

This victory, though, does have strings attached. Riesling and (for the last two decades) 

Spätburgunder are the two grape varieties that produce the highest quality German wines. 

The hallmark German style has always been characterised by particularly delicate wines 

showing lots of elegance and low alcohol content. These typical cool climate character traits 

have been highly prized recently by progressive sommeliers. However, when grapes become 

increasingly ripe, winegrowers have to cope with this natural change. 

Vineyard management techniques, such as permanent ground cover, lower foliage or a 

move to higher locations may help in this respect. Nevertheless, preserving cool climate 

characteristics remains a challenge, especially in the top vineyards with their even hotter 

microclimates. 

In the next few years, it will be crucial for German winegrowers to keep their ear to 

the ground and continue to share ideas. The easier part of global warming for German 

winegrowing has occurred over the last 20 years. The next phase is now beginning. 


65

CASTILLA Y LEÓN 

OLD VINES, TERROIR 

AND HERITAGE 

BY ISABELLE ESCANDE 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 


The Castilla y Leon region, in North-West Spain, is replete with famous appellations 

such as Ribera del Duero, Toro, Cigales and Rueda – lining the banks of the river 

Duero and producing some of the country’s finest wines. 

THE VALDEMONJAS BODEGA IS LOCATED IN THE HEART OF THE MILLA DE ORO, OR THE GOLDEN MILE, 

THE MOST PRESTIGIOUS PART OF RIBERA DEL DUERO 


SPAIN 

VINEYARDS 

LA GRANADILLA’S VINEYARDS ARE SPREAD OVER TWO VILLAGES IN VALLADOLID – NAVA DEL REY AND VILLAVERDE DE MEDINA 

Despite its long-standing tradition of growing wine, the Castilla y Leon region 

made its debut in the international wine market relatively late on. The low 

yields from its vineyards due to the area’s weather patterns along with direct 

competition from neighbouring regions prevented it from developing a powerful 

wine industry. 

But the drivers that guaranteed success in an era of industrial wines have become 

obsolete. Nowadays, low-cropping vines are synonymous with quality and small 

family-run bodegas that have benefited from new consumer standards are 

favoured over large groups. The bodegas have been modernised and equipped with 

cutting-edge technology, though they have not drawn a line under tradition, far 

from it. Many of them continue to choose bush vine training and harvesting by 

hand, or have worked to preserve native grape varieties. Although Tempranillo and 

its various avatars (Tinta del Pais, Tinto de Toro etc) still occupy a prime position in 

Castilla y Leon’s varietal range, they are not the only ones to have established their 

pedigree. Illustrations of this are provided by Mencia in the Bierzo appellation 

and Verdejo, the star of Rueda, which produces wines displaying crisp acidity and 

delicate aromas. 

The region’s wine proposition is multi-faceted, spanning a wide range of styles. 

They often encapsulate their maker’s signature style and the stamp of the terroir 

where they were born, making them easy to identify in comparison to other wines. 

We have selected five bodegas so that you can be the judge of this by tasting their 

amazing wines. 


67

SPAIN 

VINEYARDS 

BODEGAS LA GRANADILLA, 

A FAMILY DREAM 

ANA DESCALZO MATOS AND HER FATHER, MIGUEL ÁNGEL DESCALZO, 

WHO WAS THE FIRST TO START UP IN THE WINE INDUSTRY 

BODEGAS LA GRANADILLA IS RUN BY THE FIVE DESCALZO MATOS BROTHERS AND SISTERS 

Although the five Descalzo Matos brothers and 

sisters - Luis Alfonso, Roberto, Ana, David and 

Miguel – each bring with them over 20 years’ 

experience in the wine industry, it was not until 

2015 that they decided to produce their own wines 

and create Bodegas La Granadilla, in the heart of 

the Rueda DO, Castilla y Leon’s oldest appellation. 

Their bottlings now rank among the most highly 

renowned in the region. 

Crafted entirely from estate-grown fruit, they 

mirror the style of the bodega, which is young 

and innovative but also boasts extensive expertise. 

“Our main priority lies in the quality of the 

grapes”, shares Ana. “Our 104 hectares of vines 

are grown with the utmost care. One third of the 

vineyard is certified organic and the remainder 

borders on organic because we rate respect for 

the environment and sustainability very highly”. 

70% of the vineyards are planted to Verdejo, but 

the variety shows very different characteristics 

depending on the blocks where it is grown, 

explains the bodega’s technical director, Roberto 

Descalzo Matos. “Verdejo from La Granadilla is 

more powerful on the palate with higher alcohol 

than the same variety from Nava, which is fresher 

and fruitier. Fruit from La Garbancera is more 

rounded and balanced”. The grapes are then judiciously 

blended to produce wines that appeal both 

to the national and international marketplace. 

BODEGAS FRANCISCO CASAS, 

AN ODE TO CRAFTSMANSHIP 

Wine was being made in the Toro region even before 

the Romans entered Spain, and in the Middle Ages, 

they were so highly rated that they were chosen to 

fill the holds of La Niña, La Pinta and La Santa- 

María and accompany Christopher Columbus on his 

journey to the New World, explains Eduardo Casas, 

the fourth generation to helm Bodegas Francisco 

Casas. The family-run company has been based in 

Morales de Toro for over fifty years. 


EDUARDO CASAS, THE FOURTH GENERATION AT THE HELM 

OF BODEGAS FRANCISCO CASAS 

JESÚS GARCIA ALVAREZ, THE COMPANY’S WINEMAKER 

Gifted with intense spicy black fruit aromas and a beautiful dark hue with purple 

reflections, Toro wines inevitably make an impression. Made primarily from Tinta 

de Toro, a cousin to Tempranillo, they display a seductive mineral touch that flows 

into ripe fruit notes after a long stay in casks. “The wines are fleshy and robust with 

soft tannins and offer great persistency on the palate”, adds Casas. 

When asked what drives the quality of the wines, he immediately points to the 

grape growers who work for the bodega. They farm their bush-trained vines 

traditionally with expert knowledge of the terroir and yields that are capped at 

5,000 kilos per hectare. In addition to this, of course, is the winemaking team 

headed up by Jesús Garcia Alvarez who now masterfully manages production and 

maturation of the wines after working internationally, in Bordeaux and Chile. 

The experienced team at Bodegas Francisco Casas focuses on responsible winemaking 

techniques and was recently awarded IFS certification*. It now aims to reduce 

the bodega’s emissions by 50% and use materials from renewable sources because 

a quality-driven approach automatically entails a commitment to the future. 

*IFS certification is a prerequisite for marketing wines in super and hypermarkets and certifies 

the quality and safety of food products. 


69

THIS YEAR, DROUGHT LED 

TO THE EARLIEST HARVEST 

IN THE HISTORY OF THE 

BODEGA LA GRANADILLA, 

WITH PICKING STARTING 

IN AUGUST 

BORDEAUX 

TRAVEL 

THE VALDEMONJAS BODEGA 

HAS EGG-SHAPED CONCRETE 

TANKS WHICH PROVIDE 

NATURAL AND CONTINUOUS 

MICRO-OXYGENATION FOR 

THE WINES 

TREATING THE NATURAL 

SURROUNDINGS WITH RESPECT 

IS ONE OF THE PRIORITIES AT 

BODEGAS NEXUS 


THE TEAM AT VALDEMONJAS – 

THE MOYANO AGÜERA FAMILY 

AND WINEMAKER LUCA D’ATTOMA 

VALDEMONJAS, 

THE ART OF TERROIR 

Anfiteatro, Platea, Balcón, Gallinero – or amphitheatre, parterre, balcony and 

gallery – are all names of vineyards at the Valdemonjas bodega. They refer to the 

various parts of a theatre and are evocative of the winery’s vision of winegrowing. 

More than just a farming activity, it is all about the art of showcasing a terroir. 

“Wine and art are our two passions. We have never been able to consider them 

separately”, admits Alexis Moyano Agüera, son of the bodega’s founder. 

Although the estate itself was established in 2012, the Moyano Agüera family 

actually started making wine in Ribera in 1998 when it planted its first vineyard, 

Pago de Valdemonjas, whose seven hectares of Tempranillo vines are certified 

organic. The vineyard is home to a range of soil types, inclines and aspects and 

is divided into small blocks that are farmed separately. “Each one of them brings 

us something special”, says Moyano Agüera. “The lowest blocks offer freshness, 

vigour and fruit, whilst the highest ones provide elegance, power and ripeness”. 

In 2009, the property was extended through the purchase of a small vineyard of 

old vines – nearly one hundred years old – El Nogal de la Valera, which is also 

farmed organically. “The wines from this site are powerful, elegant and long on 

the palate and require virtually no intervention because the fruit improves from 

one year to the next”. 

Another landmark moment in the family’s winegrowing venture was when the 

winery itself was built in 2015 at the Valdemonjas estate. Surrounded by vineyards, 

it fits perfectly into its natural surroundings. Designed to reduce its impact on the 

environment to a minimum, the eco-sustainable building received two awards at 

the 2016 Architizer A+Awards. It allows the family and the team to produce 95% of 

their own electricity and to harvest rainwater. Ultimately, the art of winegrowing 

is not only about enhancing site-expressiveness but also “being capable of passing 

the site on to future generations in a condition as good as or better than we found 

it”. It’s certainly a project that is not for the faint-hearted! 


71

SPAIN 

VINEYARDS 

BODEGAS NEXUS, 

THE TEMPLE OF TEMPRANILLO 

“Treating the unique features of our base material – Tempranillo – with respect was 

the real starting point of our project”, explains bodega director Camino Pardo. At the 

time, the company was already producing wines in the Toro DO, but in the 2000s 

decided to complement its range by creating Bodegas Nexus where 40 hectares are 

entirely planted to Tempranillo right in the heart of Ribera del Duero. 

But whilst the grape variety is a core component, the focus is also and more importantly 

on terroir. The banks of the river Duero yield warm fruit “whose perfume 

pervades the very air we breathe”, a unique feature that stems from the site itself. 

“The poor soils, the scarce water supply and the extreme climate enable us to 

produce unique wines”, points out the winemaker. “These are appetising, elegant 

and silky wines with soft tannins and a joyful persona that stay fresh over time”. 

In just a few years, the bodega has successfully carved out an international reputation 

for itself and is now marketed in around twenty different countries. It continues 

to innovate and recently launched a natural Spanish kosher wine made in 

strict compliance with Jewish food rules. 

CAMINO PARDO, THE WINEMAKER AND DIRECTOR OF BODEGAS NEXUS 


SPAIN 

VINEYARDS 

ANGEL GARCÍA, THE FOUNDER OF BODEGAS SANTA RUFINA AND HIS DAUGHTER BLANCA GARCÍA 

BODEGAS SANTA RUFINA, OPTING FOR QUALITY 

Situated in Cubillas de Santa Marta, in DO Cigales, the Santa Rufina bodega has 

chosen to favour red wine production since its inception. In the past, though, the 

region virtually only produced rosés, which were famous for their unusual winemaking 

technique of blending red and white grape varieties. 

Whilst Cigales producers have in recent years begun making red wines, the 

bodega itself has not changed its priorities – red wines account for 85% of its sales 

currently – but rather perfected the art of blending. A Gran Reserva, matured for 

36 months in casks, was released this year in fact, explains Blanca García, daughter 

of the company’s founder, with obvious pride. 

Bodegas Santa Rufina is indeed a family affair. Founded in 1997, the estate is 

named after Blanca’s grandmother, who passed away when her father was still 

a child, says García. The bodega’s vines are extremely old – 40% of them are one 

hundred years old – and they extend over 90 hectares. Year-round care and attention 

is lavished on them. 

At Santa Rufina, quality has always been favoured over quantity. In fact, the winery 

has held onto some traditional winemaking techniques and opted for limited 

mechanisation. The grapes are picked by hand, “which makes it easier to preserve 

the integrity and impeccable quality of the fruit”, all of which is estate-grown. “This 

in turn makes it easier to make good wine”, says García, and when you taste the 

bodega’s characterful pours, you have to agree. 


73

RECONCILING WINE 

PRODUCTION WITH 

CONSERVATION 

BY SAMARIE SMITH 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 


Sustainability is the buzzword of the century. Yet, acting on its pivotal role in 

economic viability, environmental protection, and social equity is the invisible 

tread keeping the world alive as we know it. Globally, the wine industry is making 

its conservation efforts visible, and South Africa intends to remain a vital part of 

the conversation. 

LA MOTTE HAS WON THE GREAT WINE CAPITALS OF THE WORLD AWARD FOR SUSTAINABILITY MULTIPLE 

TIMES IN RECOGNITION OF ITS INNOVATIVE WAYS TO INTRODUCE SUSTAINABILITY TO GUESTS 


SOUTH AFRICA 

NEW GENERATION 

KLEIN CONSTANTIA’S ANNUAL TREE DRIVE INCLUDES PURCHASING AT LEAST 100 INDIGENOUS PLANTS IN THE FARM’S NATURAL AREAS 

The booklet, Our Sustainable Wine Journey, produced by Wines of South Africa 

(WOSA), highlights the ethos of Southern Africa’s indigenous /Xam San people 

as custodians of the land that gave rise to an alliance of organisations - Sustainable 

Wine South Africa (SWSA) - driving the industry’s commitment to sustainable 

production. This wine country’s liberating tale includes groundbreaking initiatives to 

save water and energy, advocate Fairtrade, education, support thriving black-owned 

brands and many more. 

As the representative body for the South African wine industry, sustainability 

has been integral to building Brand South Africa in the local and international 

consumer market, says Rico Basson, Vinpro Executive Director. “The South African 

wine industry is a world leader in production integrity, embracing strict guidelines 

for sustainable farming and the responsibility of protecting our environment and 

conserving our biodiversity. It’s at the forefront of research projects about climate 

change, such as Terraclim and Gen-Z. However, for the industry to grow, it is vital to 

have a policy and regulatory environment that provides incentives for investment”. 

Resilient business models allowed the industry to keep its head up with the onslaught 

of added economic pressures due to alcohol bans and the disastrous effects Covid-19 

had on wine tourism. Still, ongoing projects like the revival of old vineyards and 

improving the livelihood of communities dependent on the industry have elevated 

the Cape’s stance on sustainability. Moreover, they have increased consumers’ awareness 

of its ethical and environmentally-friendly practices and led to its industry wine 

exhibition, CapeWine 2022, coining the theme Sustainability 360. 


75

SOUTH AFRICA 


CAPEWINE 2022 

FOR KLEIN CONSTANTIA VITICULTURIST CRAIG HARRIS, “WE NEED TO ENSURE THE SOIL IS 

PASSED ON TO THE NEXT GENERATION IN A SIMILAR OR BETTER STATE” 

The pandemic prevented CapeWine from happening 

in Cape Town but fuelled the need to showcase 

projects, programmes and activities anchoring 

the industry’s longevity. 

As a result, according to Maryna Calow, communications 

manager for Wines of South Africa 

(WOSA), CapeWine 2022 has seen a record number 

of exhibitors since its inception in 2002. 

“Sustainability 360 focuses on three pillars: people, 

planet and prosperity. We want to highlight how 

far we have come to embrace and promote these 

practices on our farms and communities to see our 

industry thrive for another 360+ years.” 

CapeWine 2022 offers a unique opportunity to 

share the message of sustainability and promote 

the Cape Winelands as an exceptional tourism 

destination, adds WOSA CEO, Siobhan Thompson. 

“Initiatives include the Wine of Origin certification 

(WO), Integrated Production of Wine (IPW), Wine 

and Agricultural Industry Ethical Trade Association 

(WIETA) and the World Wildlife Fund (WWF), 

among others, highlighting that sustainability sits 

at the core of the South African wine industry”. 

The pledge to create a sustainable harmony 

between place, product and people while providing 

the world with an enormous diversity of 

quality wines has also led to 77% of the country’s 

92,000 hectares of vineyards being Wieta certified. 

SPIER BECAME A WWF-SA CONSERVATION CHAMPION IN 2012 AND AIMS TO NURTURE THE 

UNIQUE BIODIVERSITY THAT ENCOURAGES THE RETURN OF FAUNA, FLORA AND INSECT 

LIFE BACK ONTO THE FARM 

WWF CONSERVATION CHAMPIONS 

South Africa’s wine industry rapidly expanded 

in 2000, spurring a partnership between the 

conservation and wine sectors. Initially named 

the Biodiversity and Wine Initiative (BWI) in 2004, 

the programme was renamed the Conservation 

Champion programme, offering wine producers 

advisory support with tangible targets to improve 

their water and energy efficiency. Conservation 

champions collectively own 45,200 hectares spread 

across the Cape Winelands, of which 24,300 ha of 

the Cape Floral Kingdom is conserved, boasting 

over 9,600 plant species. 


SOUTH AFRICA 


These environmental leaders collaborate with the 

WWF to set up environmental management plans 

and implement systems to meet market requirements 

through the IPW certification scheme. 

Wines produced by WWF Champions carry the 

distinctive sugarbird and protea logo on their 

bottles, affirming their commitment to biodiversity 

and conservation. In turn, this commitment 

is perpetuated by every consumer buying a bottle 

bearing this logo. 

La Motte Estate in Franschhoek has been awarded 

Great Wine Capitals winner in the category for 

sustainability multiple times. Yet, CEO Hein 

Koegelenberg commends the entire wine sector 

for its persistent efforts. “We have such diverse 

terroir with talented people working in wine. It is 

our responsibility to continue focusing on upliftment, 

education, training and employment to 

better the lives of our local communities”. 

La Motte’s projects have seen the implementation 

of excellent regenerative farming practices. “Vast 

rehabilitated areas cleared from alien invasion 

have seen previously unprotected ecosystems 

being restored, providing a habitat for rare and 

endangered species and luring natural predators 

like snakes and owls to control pests”, adds 

Koegelenberg. 

Vondeling in Paarl boasts species of Fynbos 

unique to the area, naming their flagship white 

and red wines after two of these red data-listed 

plants: Babiana (white) and the Monsonia (red). 

Following a fire on the Paardeberg in January 

2011, a botanical survey was commissioned by the 

Paardeberg Sustainability Initiative (PSI) in collaboration 

with Vondeling Wines to record the plant 

species growing on the mountain. As a result, over 

900 species in over 70 families have been collected. 

Their passion for preserving their natural environment 

is palpable at Creation, and co-owner 

Carolyn Martin shares that being a WWF 

Conservation Champion resonates with them on 

various levels. “We support scientific initiatives 

like ClimaVin (a global climate change project 

spearheaded by Stellenbosch University) and 

the Vititec GEN-Z project to establish clones and 

rootstocks best suited to mitigate climate change”. 

CREATION, SITUATED IN THE HEART OF THE CAPE FLORAL KINGDOM, RECEIVED 

ITS OFFICIAL WWF CONSERVATION CHAMPION STATUS IN MAY 2022 

THE CONSERVATION CHAMPION LOGO 


77

ALMENKERK, WHERE THE WELL-BEING 

OF WORKERS AT WORK AND IN THEIR 

PRIVATE SPACE IS VITAL, HAS BEEN 

A WWF CONSERVATION CHAMPION 

SINCE OCTOBER 2015 

As everything is connected, environmentally conscious efforts are bound to give rise to 

side hustles like WWF Champion in Elgin, Almenkerk, growing its bee population from 

0 to 70 boxes. “It is incredibly gratifying to see nature flourish around you and to know 

you are doing as much as possible to preserve it. We need to leave our children a healthy 

and financially sustainable farm and cherish every aspect of it”, shares Natalie Obstaele, 

co-owner at Almenkerk. 

Graham Beck is another stalwart WWF Champion. Over three decades, its COO Pieter 

Ferreira (previously as cellarmaster) saw it being shaped into the conservation-savvy 

wine mogul it is today. “A substantial portion of the land was set aside as a private 

nature reserve (the Graham and Rhona Beck Game Reserve) in the semi-arid region of 

Robertson. Many farms have subsequently followed suit. As a result, the Rooiberg-Breede 

River Conservancy was established by 27 landowners to protect 16,000 hectares of unique 

Cape Floral Kingdom fauna and flora”. For every hectare used for agriculture/wine 

production, nine hectares of natural vegetation are conserved, equalling 1,978 hectares. 

WASTE NOT, WANT NOT. 

Composting and recycling organic and inorganic waste is crucial in the preservation 

methods applied at the properties of WWF Champions. The family of Delheim, for 

example, grew up with conservation being a part of who they are and how they farm, 

says CEO Victor Sperling, whose mom took a stance against plastic bags in the 80s. “My 

father planted trees throughout his life to give back to nature. Being a WWF conservation 

champion tells people we are committed to doing what is right”. 


SOUTH AFRICA 


Extracting the good from all plastic evil, La Motte also recycles glass and cartons 

with recyclable items sold to HE Recyclers, explains Koegelenberg. “The money 

generated rewards the staff who commits to recycling”. Furthermore, Amorim 

collects used corks for repurposing, and Brenn-O-Kem removes wine lees for the 

manufacture of cream of tartar”. 

Organic waste material from the winery, such as grape seeds, skins and stalks, are 

deposited on a designated compost site with green mulches from vine clippings 

and weed cuttings. The compost is irrigated with treated winery wastewater, and 

when compost is mature, and the chemical composition has been determined, it 

is used in vineyards and gardens. 

By 2011, Spier had been consistently recycling 85% of its solid waste, shares Frans 

Smit, CEO of this Stellenbosch wine farm, celebrated for its success stories around 

sustainability. 

“In the last 15 months, we managed to divert all waste, 95-98% recycled and the 

balance, to a waste-to-energy plant. In the twelve months to May 2022, our recycling 

and recovery efforts resulted in 73,832 kg less CO2 equivalent in the atmosphere, 

equalling 671m3 of landfill volume saved through waste diversion”, Smit 

continues. Since 2014, Spier has used the CCC Confronting Climate Change carbon 

calculator to measure the carbon footprint of their direct wine operations and seek 

ways to reduce this. 

HEIN KOEGELENBERG, CEO OF LA MOTTE WINE ESTATE, 

ENTHUSIASTICALLY SHARES HOW SOUTH AFRICA HAS COME FROM EVERYDAY 

QUALITY WINES TO EXCEPTIONAL, SITE-SPECIFIC WINE 


79

SOUTH AFRICA 


WATERWISE 

VONDELING’S VINEYARDS RUN OFF THE SOUTH-FACING SLOPES OF THE PAARDEBERG 

MOUNTAIN WHERE THE DECOMPOSED GRANITE SOIL AND HABITUAL AFTERNOON SOUTH 

WESTERLY WINDS GIVE THE WINES VIBRANCY IN AN OTHERWISE WARM CLIMATE AREA 

ALMENKERK IN ELGIN IS HOME TO A SPECTACLE OF FAUNA AND FLORA AND THEY HAVE 

COMBINED ORCHARDS AND VINEYARDS TO EXPRESS THE DIVERSITY FOUND HERE 

A country like South Africa, struck by prolonged 

drought, has established a conservation consciousness 

throughout its wine value chain while 

maintaining the best possible quality in the most 

financially sustainable way. Vondeling viticulturalist, 

Magnus Joubert, believes this process 

starts in the soil, and a mixture of cover crops is 

used to preserve soil health. “This year, we used 

black oats (Saia oats), radish, mustard, vetch and 

lupines. This way, you cover a broader spectrum of 

material you put back in the soil: Saia gives green 

manure, radish helps with aeration, mustard helps 

protection against nematodes, and vetch provides 

good ground cover that helps with weed control 

and moisture retention in the soil. The lupines are 

a source of nitrogen fixation, and the cover crop 

keeps the soil alive. We use mulch in the form of 

Canola bales to help with moisture retention in the 

soil, and weed control. It breaks down to build soil 

health and build up carbon in the soil”. 

Graham Beck recycles all its sewerage water from 

the farm and cellar. “All recycled water is utilised 

for irrigation of the vineyards, amounting to about 

three million litres per month”, says Ferreira. “We 

have reduced our water usage to a maximum of 

6,000 m 3 per hectare yearly through constant and 

regular neutron moisture probe readings”. 

Spier became a WWF-SA Conservation Champion 

in 2012 and had been focusing on rehabilitating 

the riparian systems that flow through the farm. 

“This includes wetland rehabilitation, removing 

alien vegetation and planting indigenous riverine 

species that consume much less water”. Since 

establishing the Spier Nursery, it has planted over 

100,000 trees, shrubs, Fynbos, and over a million 

bulbs. 

When the Almenkerk-family acquired their Elgin 

estate in 2004, they decided to restore sections of 

the property to their original state, as identified in 

Botanist Helmes’ report of 2002. “Water was the 

first concern to arise, as the dam never filled its full 

potential during the rainy period”. Just by clearing 

alien vegetation to free water, did it freely start 

running into the dam during the rainy period, 


VONDELING WINES VINEYARDS 

WITH THE PAARDBERG MOUNTAIN 

IN THE BACKDROP. WITH 400 

HECTARES OF INDIGENOUS FYNBOS 

ON THE MOUNTAIN SLOPES, 

THE RESPONSIBLE CUSTODIAN 

APPROACH OF WINE ESTATES HAS 

A SIGNIFICANT IMPACT 

SOUTH AFRICA’S ELEGANT 

NATIONAL BIRDS, THE BLUE 

CRANE, WANDER AMONG 

PRISTINE SURROUNDS IN THE 

SPECTACULAR GRAHAM AND 

RHONA BECK NATURE RESERVE 

LA MOTTE HAS REHABILITATED 

35 HECTARES OF DEGRADED 

MOUNTAIN VEGETATION AND 

COMMITTED MORE THAN 10% OF 

THE FARM TO CONSERVATION 


81

SOUTH AFRICA 


CURRENTLY, NINE SOLAR INSTALLATIONS SUPPLY SPIER FARM WITH ELECTRICITY, GENERATING 

OVER 280,000 KWH IN 2021, RESULTING IN 107,808KG OF CARBON DIOXIDE SAVINGS 

IN 2016, GRAHAM BECK BEGAN INSTALLATION OF AN EXTENSIVE SOLAR SYSTEM, 

INSTALLING 1,200 PANELS ON THE ROOF OF ITS MADEBA 3 CELLAR 

and natural vegetation in the form of Watsonias, 

Restio’s, Arum Lilies and a wide variety of birds 

return to the area. In two decades, their rehabilitation 

plans saw an apple farm transformed into 

an estate that balances apple and grape production 

and has cleared conservation- & rehabilitation 

areas that classify as afro-montane forests 

and wetlands, hosting some red book species. The 

challenge is to communicate this effectively to our 

international buyers – and the fact that sustainability 

is this CapeWine’s theme is a major step in 

the right direction”. 

For example, a winery like La Motte uses automatic 

soil moisture probes, leaf moisture meters 

(tension-meters), and thermometers in vineyards 

to determine plant irrigation needs. Computerised 

water demand management is based on 

weekly soil and leaf moisture data and climatic 

information. GEOSS (Geohydrological and Spatial 

Solutions International (Pty) Ltd) monitors the 

farm’s various water resource levels to improve 

the utilisation, protection, and management of 

its groundwater resources. “The patented Bubbler 

system treats the huge volumes of wastewater 

generated by the cellar. In addition to treating 

cellar effluent, the Bubbler is designed to treat 

sewerage and greywater through the Septic Boss 

system. The effluent is processed through anaerobic 

and aerobic digestion coupled with aeration. 

Pathogens and remaining solids are then removed, 

making the water suitable for irrigation”. 

SAVE ENERGY FOR WHAT TRULY 

MATTERS 

Spier continues exploring ways to expand its 

generation of renewable energy sources, aiming 

to reach its net zero carbon footprint milestone by 

2030. As a result, the farm has reduced its greenhouse 

gas emissions from electrical consumption 

by 30% in 2017 based on 2009 levels. In 2021, their 

solar installations generated over 280,000 kWh, 

resulting in 107,808kg of carbon dioxide savings. 

Energy-saving methods are evident in the properties 

of many other WWF Champions and wine 


SOUTH AFRICA 


businesses. The solar panels installed at Graham 

Beck produce around 30% of the total electricity 

usage in its production facilities and over 160 solar 

panels have been installed at Vondeling, providing 

them with 80,200 kWh on average annually. 

GRAHAM BECK TAKES GREAT PRIDE IN COMMUNICATING ITS CONSERVATION INITIATIVES 

DURING CELLAR TOURS, TASTINGS AND VINEYARD TOURS 

ECO-TOURISM 

Wine Tourism lies at the heart of the Cape Winelands, 

and producers want visitors to experience 

positive transformation for themselves. These 

offerings include sustainable nature-based activities 

like walking, hiking and mountain biking 

trails, outdoor dining, bird watching, eco-lodging, 

picnics, nature drives and ‘vinisafari’s’. 

Visitors to Spier can volunteer in their organic 

Food Garden or at the Sustainability Institute 

or visit their eco-friendly wastewater treatment 

plant that recycles 100% of the farm’s black and 

grey water. Their Tree-preneurs nursery, home to 

23,000 indigenous plants, has empowered dozens 

of tree-growing entrepreneurs living in impoverished 

communities to grow indigenous trees and 

plants in exchange for livelihood support”. 

Traversing the beautiful Elgin valley, the Active@ 

Almenkerk hiking trail spreads the conservation 

gospel to local and international visitors that 

become powerful ambassadors for their brand 

and its conservation efforts. 

The message of sustainability continues to the 

Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, where Creation has been 

awarded for the way its vision comes alive in 

tourism offerings with inventive menus comprising 

fresh, seasonal and local ingredients. “Consumers 

want to enjoy authentic wines with traceability 

and exclusivity. In this context, the future 

of fine wine is about consumers venturing to 

where the wine is grown to discover the terroir”. 

It includes the people who make, grow and 

harvest it, confirming that the brand you support 

is committed to a sustainable future, including 

its beautiful environment, people, community 

and clients. 

ANTHONY HAMILTON-RUSSELL SEES HIS ROLE AS “CONTINUALLY ENHANCING THE HEALTH 

AND DIVERSITY OF OUR OVERALL ECOLOGY, THE WHOLE TEAM AND THEIR FAMILIES 


83

CASTILLON, 

A LEFT-FIELD VIEW 

OF THE RIGHT BANK 

BY ALAIN ECHALIER 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 


©PIERRE PLANCHENAULT 

Castillon is home to over 200 winegrowers who farm an average of 10 hectares 

each. Evidence of winegrowing here dates back to Gallo-Roman times and 

yet, awareness of the region both in France and around the world is still very 

haphazard. We take a stab at righting this wrong. 

THE VINEYARDS IN FRONT OF CHÂTEAU GERMAN 


BORDEAUX 

APPELLATION 

As a reminder, when Henry Plantagenet became 

King of England after marrying Eleanor of 

Aquitaine in 1152, the entire region of Guyenne fell 

under English rule. At the time, the area covered a 

good third of present-day France, and included all 

of Bordeaux. Castillon, a little market town on the 

Dordogne, upriver from Libourne and Saint-Emilion, 

also fell within its boundaries. This in turn 

opened up the London market to the region’s wines, 

leading to a boom for the wine industry. 

A NAME STEEPED IN HISTORY 

But it was only 300 hundred years later that 

‘Castillon’ established its reputation. As the 

English defended their continental territory 

against the King of France’s troops, their leader, 

Talbot, lost a decisive battle on 17 July 1453, which 

proved fatal to him. The battle, which took place 

near Castillon, put an end to the Hundred Years’ 

War, and marked the withdrawal of the English 

from the continent. 

Nowadays, a re-enactment of the battle takes 

place every summer during a performance for the 

public. The Saint-Emilion co-operative winery has 

even marketed a commemorative bottle for the 

event, under the Castillon appellation of course. 

EVERY YEAR, THE RE-ENACTMENT OF THE BATTLE OF CASTILLON 

TAKES US BACK TO 1453 

THE CASTILLON CÔTES DE 

BORDEAUX APPELLATION 

Bordering Saint-Emilion to the East, it extends 

over several villages around the town now known 

as Castillon-la-Bataille. Just like in Saint-Emilion, 

a plateau formed primarily of clay-limestone 

drops down towards to the sandy-gravelly valley 

floor where the Dordogne flows. The inclines can 

be relatively steep, with drops ranging from 30 to 

70 metres. The vineyard sites therefore offer good 

quality, particularly on the western side at a tangent 

with Saint-Emilion, where the limestone soils are 

more common. At the same time, this prestigious 

but cumbersome neighbour may have taken some 

of the limelight away from Castillon. 


85

BORDEAUX 

APPELLATION 

Until the turn of the 20 th century, Castillon produced 

both red and white wine, but whites have now 

exited the appellation. Six grape varieties can be 

used – Merlot is the undisputed king of the varietal 

range, often blended with a little Cabernet Franc or 

even Cabernet-Sauvignon or Cot (the local name 

for Malbec). Occasionally, there is even a dash of 

Petit Verdot or Carmenere, but their share cannot 

be higher than 15%. 

Although Castillon was previously a stand-alone 

appellation, the wines have now technically been 

subsumed into the Côtes de Bordeaux appellation, 

as a complementary designation. In fact, production 

specifications – maximum yield and minimum 

level of ripeness for example – are slightly more 

quality-focused than for plain Côtes de Bordeaux. 

COPING WITH CLIMATE CHANGE 

THE VINEYARDS AT CHÂTEAU BRÉHAT 

As in most wine regions around the world, climate 

disruptions in Castillon have both a short and longterm 

impact. Over the long term, higher temperatures 

promote greater ripeness in the grape flesh, 

with more sugar content and lower acidity. This 

is particularly tangible with Merlot, due to its 

thin skin. Consequently, the wines display higher 

alcohol content and can lose some of their freshness. 

To cope with these changes, winegrowers have 

responded in different ways. For some time now, 

they have been choosing cooler soils for Merlot, and 

have started increasing the share of other grape 

varieties in blends. Also, they have been harvesting 

earlier – in 2022, the harvest kicked off at the start 

of September. Lastly, total acidity in the wines is 

corrected, as with most wines from the South, by 

adding some tartaric acid. The acid occurs naturally 

in the grapes. 

All of this produces concentrated wines displaying a 

dark ruby hue, with notes of ripe red fruits, prunes, 

leather and game. However, in anticipation of continued 

global warming, a more drastic measure has 

been decided – very little Merlot is now going into 

the ground. 

In the short term, heat waves, rain and sudden 

hailstorms are having different types of effect. 


CLÉMENT PARADISI, 

THE WINEMAKER AT 

MAISON SEIGNOURET 

Output is falling, either because the crop is damaged and some of the fruit is 

discarded during stringent sorting, or because yields are low. This was true of 

summer 2022, when heat and drought produced smaller berries. 

SEIGNOURET FRÈRES & CIE: 

CHÂTEAUX AND/OR BRANDS 

Our survey begins with a long-standing trading company – François Seignouret 

founded the firm in 1830. It now distributes 11 million bottles annually around the 

world, 80% to export markets. Winemaker Clément Paradisi is tasked with sourcing 

the wines and 95% of them come from Gironde. Although purchases include 

some Grands Crus, there are also, quite naturally, some Castillon-Côtes de Bordeaux 

wines. 

The company sells wines by Château Lartigue and has worked with the property 

for some fifteen years, marketing around 50,000 bottles a year. As Paradisi points 

out, this involves visiting the chateau and tasting the juice and fermenting wines, 

which are subsequently bought ‘from the tank’. Bottling, however, is conducted at 

the chateau so that the all-important ‘estate-bottled’ statement can feature on the 


87

BORDEAUX 

APPELLATION 

label – this is still a reassuring cue for consumers. 

After bottling, the wines are either stored in the 

temperature-controlled cellars belonging to Maison 

Seignouret, or shipped straight to export markets, 

including Laos, Vietnam and the United States. This 

range of wines, with a retail price tag ranging from 

10 to 12 euros, is more suited to quick depletions. 

They are very fruity, 95% Merlot offerings that do 

have some ageability – Paradisi recently drunk a 

2016 that was still very flavourful. 

He agrees that Castillon’s reputation is not as 

well-established as that of its neighbour Saint-Emilion, 

but in its defence points to its lovely hillside 

vineyard sites. He enjoys drinking the wines with 

fairly hearty dishes, like grilled steak. 

Maison Seignouret also produces brands which 

draw on the negociant’s expertise in sourcing and 

blending wines that can come from several different 

producers, and can even change down the years. 

The different categories require different marketing 

techniques. 

VIGNOBLES ALAIN AUBERT: 

TERROIR EXPERTISE 

THE WINE INVENTORIES 

AT MAISON SEIGNOURET 

ALAIN AUBERT OF 

CHÂTEAU GERMAN 

Our next respondent is 79 VA1 and boasts extensive 

experience. In his family, wine has been made for a 

very long time. He personally started age 14 with his 

grandfather, and now owns several chateaux, including 

two in the Castillon appellation area. 

Château German extends over 35 hectares. The vines 

were replanted after the harsh winter of 1956, with 

70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet-Sauvignon and 10% 

Cabernet franc. “The vineyard blocks start just two 

metres away from the Saint-Emilion appellation 

area. The boundaries are political, religious even”, 

says Alain Aubert. “In the West is Catholic country, 

where place names favour the saints (Saint-Emilion, 

Lussac-St-Emilion, St-Georges-Saint-Emilion…); 

and in the East, is Protestant territory. Another 

differentiating factor is the shape of the dovecots, 

which are square in the West, and round in the East. 

It’s little surprise that Castillon was not incorporated 

into the Saint-Emilion satellite appellations! 

But in this area, it is difficult to tell the wines apart”. 


BORDEAUX 

APPELLATION 

Château Hyot also covers 35 hectares but is located 

more towards the bottom of the hills. The soils are 

more clayey and the share of Merlot drops to 40%. 

The wines, which are not expensive, are oaked with 

chips. The results are good, but Aubert points out 

that they require a fairly technical approach – the 

wines have to be tasted every three weeks to get the 

quantities right. Not everyone is equipped for such 

precision. 

Ninety percent of the wines are now sold in export 

markets. Aubert misses the time when he had 

30,000 customers in France, but gradually his 

network of sales representatives retired. The wines 

are now shipped to China and the United States, 

but also Western Africa, where a kind of common 

market facilitates exports. Admittedly, there is 

competition from New World wines, but Bordeaux 

has always enjoyed an incredible reputation and 

Castillon, like all wines from Gironde, also sports 

the ‘Grand Vin de Bordeaux’ statement. 

Aubert has a fondness for the appellation. The price 

of land – in the range of 30,000 euros per hectare – 

is ten times cheaper than in Saint-Emilion, which 

leaves room for newcomers to join the ranks of 

producers, and also to help energise the appellation. 

CHÂTEAU BRÉHAT IS ALSO A PART OF CHÂTEAU HAUT ROCHER 

BÉATRICE AND JÉROME DE MONTEIL 

CHÂTEAU BRÉHAT: 

THE GOOD LIFE AS ORGANIC 

WINEGROWERS 

Béatrice and Jérôme de Monteil are among those 

newcomers. In 2010, they gave up their careers in 

Paris to take over the family farm from Jérôme’s 

brother. That farm is Château Haut Rocher, now 

their home, where they produce Saint-Emilion. But 

the chateau also owns 5.5 hectares in the Castillon 

appellation area, which follow on seamlessly 

from Saint-Emilion and are marketed under the 

Château Bréhat name. The vineyards are planted 

to 70% Merlot, with the balance divided between 

Cabernet Franc and Cabernet-Sauvignon. Whilst 

for Saint-Emilion the wines are 100% barrel-fermented 

in new casks, the ratio is 50% tanks and 

50% 1-year-old barrels for Castillon. “From a marke- 


89

BORDEAUX 

APPELLATION 

THE DE MONTEIL’S WINERY 

ting perspective, it is good to have two different 

wines”, claims Béatrice, “even if the soils are very 

similar. There are many more hillsides than sites at 

the bottom of the slopes”. 

At Château Bréhat, the grapes are harvested by 

machine, except for the old vines which are more 

sensitive to vibrations and are picked by hand. 

“The quality of harvesting machines has greatly 

improved”, stresses Béatrice. Three years ago, the 

couple also switched to organic winegrowing. “This 

is true for many Castillon wines”, the couple says. 

Sure enough, over 25% of properties are farmed 

organically or biodynamically. 

Extensive woodlands also help promote biodiversity 

and some producers are even asking that in the 

future, production specifications for the Castillon 

appellation make organic certification mandatory. 

That would certainly be a huge feat. 

UNION DE PRODUCTEURS 

DE SAINT-EMILION: 

SOME CASTILLON TOO! 

UDP SELLS ITS WINES DIRECT TO CONSUMER FROM ITS WINERY STORE 

This large co-operative winery was founded in the 

1930s by the former director of Château Figeac. 

Fast-forward to 2022, and the head of marketing 

and communications, Anne-Sophie Larvor, 

introduces us to the winery. The co-operative has 

650 hectares under vine and produces primarily 

wines under the Saint-Emilion appellation and its 

satellites – no surprises there. But how could you 

turn away a Saint-Emilion vineyard owner who also 

has a few neighbouring blocks in Castillon, and not 

make the wines? Sometimes, only a dirt track separates 

the two. 

The Castillon appellation accounts for nearly 6% of 

vineyards farmed by UDP but just 1% of the wines, 

because some of them are marketed directly by 

the owner. What the winery brings though, is the 

standards of a modern co-operative with strict 

production specifications, expertise and sizeable 

winemaking facilities. 

Under the Castillon appellation, UDP produces 

one Château – Rouzerol – and also crafts the ‘Roy 

Charles’ brand. The brand is a nod to the history of 


ANNE-SOPHIE LARVOR, 

HEAD OF MARKETING 

FOR UDP 


91

BORDEAUX 

APPELLATION 

THE CELLARS AT UDP 

Castillon and is produced in conjunction with the organisation that hosts the battle 

performance - €1 for every bottle purchased is donated to the association. The wine 

sells for €7.90 a bottle, compared with around €9 for a Saint-Emilion satellite appellation 

and between €12 and €14 for a Saint-Emilion. 

And yet, as Larvor stresses, in the Middle Ages under English rule, Castillon was 

much better than known than Saint-Emilion! 

CASTILLON ALL-SET TO 

RECONQUER CONSUMERS 

Castillon wines are not only very affordable, they also have two distinctive features 

that make them very focused on the future. Firstly, young winegrowers are providing 

the catalyst for the switch to organic farming, which is increasingly popular with 

consumers. Secondly, the style of the wines – which are fruity and enjoyable in their 

youth – is the perfect fit for current consumer trends. In all likelihood, the region 

will gradually secure greater awareness over the next few years by using a thoughtful 

approach to communication, leveraging the performance of the wines. There is little 

doubt that Castillon will win the battle. 


FROM HVE TO ORGANIC, 

BURGUNDY MAKES A PLEDGE 

TO THE ENVIRONMENT 

BY JEAN-PAUL BURIAS 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 


© BIVB, © IMAGE & ASSOCIÉS, 

© SÉBASTIEN BOULARD 

When a legendary wine region makes a firm commitment to the environment, 

its status is enhanced even further. In Burgundy, the number of wineries 

certified High Environmental Value has doubled since 2020, a trend which 

mirrors the region’s long-standing quality-driven focus. Gilbert & Gaillard 

went to the heart of the region to find out more about the phenomenon. 

A HUT SURROUNDED BY VINES 


BURGUNDY 

ENDORSEMENTS 

THE VINEYARDS AT DOMAINE YVON ET LAURENT VOCORET 

Investing in an earth-friendly approach to winegrowing using more environmentally friendly techniques 

is becoming part and parcel of a winegrower’s life. Renowned for its prestigious appellations, 

Burgundy is benefitting from the commitment of a growing number of estates that produce 

wines organically, both in the vineyard and the winery. In France, High Environmental Value (HVE) 

endorsement crowns the highest level of environmental certification for farms. Since the scheme’s 

inception in February 2012, the number of certified farms has grown steadily. By 1 July 2021, more 

than 19,000 farms had garnered the certification, including a large number of wineries. At the end 

of the certification process, HVE endorses properties that promote biodiversity and offer a complementary 

network for crops, preserve life in the soils to maintain fertility, develop positive synergies 

with the natural environment of the crops and encourage the development of useful fauna, including 

precious pollinators. These criteria are core components of work in the vineyard, entailing a more 

independent approach to plant protection products and treatment, along with water management. 

The certification gives winegrowers the freedom to act as they see fit. They can choose the techniques 

best suited to the characteristics of their vineyards, soil, climate and plot size in order to develop 

environmental practices that treat the unique character of their vineyard sites, and therefore their 

wines, with respect. “To secure the endorsement, winegrowers must put together an application 

and then request an audit by an accredited external organisation”, explains a spokesperson from 

the Burgundy Wine Bureau (BIVB). “An initial intermediate audit is carried out 18 months after 

certification for review. Then a renewal is required every three years. The process is not necessarily a 

stepping stone to the more restrictive transition to organic farming. There is no connection between 

the two initiatives. Everyone can follow the route they choose – they can view HVE as a step towards 

organic, stay HVE or go straight to organic farming without transitioning via HVE”. 

We follow the unique environmental journey of eight Burgundy estates, which illustrate to perfection 

how varied this wine region can be. 


95

LÉGENDES 

WILLIAM WATERKEYN, 

THE WINEMAKER AT 

DOMAINE JESSIAUME 

JEAN-FRANÇOIS LE BIGOT, 

THE OWNER OF 

DOMAINE JESSIAUME 

DOMAINE JESSIAUME: A WORTHY CAUSE 

Domaine Jessiaume is located in Santenay, in the Côte de Beaune, at the 

heart of Burgundy. Its 15 hectares of vines cover the hillsides of some of the 

region’s most storied villages, including Beaune, Pommard, Volnay, Auxey- 

Duresses and Santenay. Founded in 1850 by the Jessiaume family, the estate 

subsequently came under Scottish ownership with David Murray (between 

2006 and 2020). He introduced environmentally-friendly techniques, where 

handling and crushing were kept to a minimum. The fruit is picked in crates 

by hand as is sorting. Elevator belts are used for vatting, natural yeast is 

used for fermentation and gentle, controlled extractions are favoured. The 

estate was taken over in 2020 by Dr. Jean-François Le Bigot, who maintains 

the same high standards to produce elegant, pure, fine wines which 

show respect for the vineyard sites and mirror a desire for sustainable, 

high-quality wines. “Farming organically allows us to enhance pure terroir 

expression”, says the estate’s winemaker William Waterkeyn. “In the winery, 

we go above and beyond the requirements of certification. We use wild 

ferments, no winemaking aids or sulphites before fermentation, which 

allows us to fully express provenance. Our wines have a signature terroir 

style that is recognisable in a blind tasting. They show great complexity and 

that is a strength”. 


GÉRARD DOREAU, 

WITH HIS WIFE RÉJANE AND 

HIS TWO CHILDREN, 

JÉRÔME AND EMILIE 

THE FAMOUS VILLAGE 

OF MONTHÉLIE 

DOMAINE DOREAU: SEAMLESS TRANSITION 

At this remarkable estate, passed down through the generations, family is the 

common thread. At the end of the 19th century, Pierre Doreau bought plots of land 

in order to replant vines decimated by phylloxera. The business then prospered 

and grew. The present-day Domaine Doreau crafts authentic wines from prime 

grape varieties grown on 6 hectares of vines located within top appellations such 

as Monthélie and Pommard. Sustainable farming and respect for the environment 

and vineyard sites dictate choice of vineyard management and winemaking techniques. 

This stringent approach enabled the winery to secure High Environmental 

Value certification in 2019. Tillage is used in the vineyards from March to July but 

for the rest of the year, natural ground cover is left with grassed headlands. 

Much thought is given to vineyard treatments, with products authorised for 

organic farming the preferred option wherever possible. “Securing the endorsement 

did not have any particular effect on our farming methods because our 

practices already aligned with HVE standards”, stresses Jérôme Doreau, the 

estate’s manager. “Also, it is difficult to ascertain whether switching to HVE led 

to greater appeal and demand for the wines because Burgundy is so popular 

at the moment and inventory is low. The endorsement does not necessarily act 

as a magnet. However, it does reassure customers who come to the cellar door 

and ask us how we farm, though it has yet to become an advantage for exports”. 


97

BURGUNDY 

ENDORSEMENTS 

DOMAINE BERGER-RIVE: A FAMILY AFFAIR 

Skills are passed down from generation to generation in the Berger-Rive family, 

and for the past two years this knack of sharing has taken on a new meaning. With 

26 hectares under vine, 16 of them located in the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, Bourgogne 

Pinot Noir and Bourgogne Aligoté appellation areas and 10 in the northern part of the 

Côte Chalonnaise, in Rully and Mercurey, the winery has been HVE certified since 

January 2020. The first vintage entitled to the endorsement was 2017. The estate’s 

history began after the French Revolution, when the Berger family’s ancestors bought 

the Prieuré de Mercey and its vineyards. Over the generations, the estate evolved, 

mostly due to the input of Gérard Berger who planted 12 hectares of vines, before 

renaming the property Berger-Rive in 1960 by appending his wife’s maiden name to 

his own. Gérard’s son Xavier joined him in 1977 before taking over management of 

the estate in 1989, gradually extending acreage in other areas to a total 22 hectares. 

The fourth generation arrived in 2015 when Paul Berger, the youngest of Xavier’s 

three children, decided to perpetuate the family’s impressive winegrowing heritage 

and culture. After working with his father for five years, Paul took over the reins 

of the estate in 2020, increasing vineyard area to 26 hectares which are managed 

using sustainable, earth-friendly techniques. “This is a great source of pride for our 

entire team and recognition of all the efforts made over the years on the family estate 

PAUL BERGER WHO TOOK OVER AT 

THE HELM OF DOMAINE BERGER-RIVE IN 2020 

XAVIER BERGER, WHO RAN DOMAINE 

BERGER-RIVE FROM 1989 TO 2020 


BURGUNDY 

ENDORSEMENTS 

to promote biodiversity and the environment”, he 

says. “The vines are managed sustainably with a 

focus on reintroducing ancient farming techniques 

such as hoeing”. Two thirds of the estate are planted 

with vines reaching 2 metres in height, with row 

spacing of 2.5 metres. This planting technique 

creates a healthier environment, reducing disease 

pressure and plant protection product usage. 

LAURENT AND CLÉMENTINE VOCORET 

YVON AND LAURENT VOCORET: 

EXCELLENCE IN CHABLIS 

Yvon and Laurent Vocoret love their job, which has 

provided the common thread for 5 generations 

of their family. “Our family has been a part of the 

history of winegrowing in the heart of Chablis since 

1713”, says Yvon Vocoret. The story began with winegrower 

Jean Vocoret, and over the years the fruits, 

nobility and passion of producing wine have been 

passed down the generations. “For 40 years, we 

have been using organic amendments, which forces 

our soil to transform organic matter into mineral 

matter to provide nourishment for the vines. 

Producing sustainably guarantees a quality crop”. 

For the past three years, the estate has switched to 

tillage and hoeing in order to do away with weed 

killers and put a cap on spraying, thereby treating 

the soils with respect. “This requires a great deal 

of monitoring to ensure the quality of the harvest 

and the lifespan of vines in good health”, explains 

Laurent Vocoret. “We no longer use anti-botrytis 

or grey rot treatments. This way, the grapes ripen 

harmoniously and develop finer and richer skins 

that promote better quality must”. 

A FUTURE WINEGROWER 

DOMAINE VINCENT WENGIER: 

AN UNFAILING COMMITMENT 

Vineyards here are managed in narrow rows, typical 

of the region. After ramping up its commitment to 

environmentally-friendly techniques, the estate is 

converting to organic, and will be a fully-fledged 

organic producer by the 2023 harvest. The family 

estate grows 25 hectares of vines, spread over five 


99

LAURENT VOCORET 

BORDEAUX 

TRAVEL 

VINCENT WENGIER 

IN HIS VINEYARD 

CÉLINE AND 

ANTOINE ANGST 


BURGUNDY 

ENDORSEMENTS 

appellations – Chablis, Petit Chablis, Aligoté, Bourgogne 

Chardonnay and recently Bourgogne Rouge, 

with a first crop in 2021. 

The vineyards are weeded by machine 4 to 5 times 

a year and yield clean, precise wines with lots of 

fruit, richness and roundness. “HVE endorsement 

highlights good winegrowing practices”, 

stresses Vincent Wengier. The product itself is not 

the issue, but rather a reduction in inputs, reined 

in fertilisation, the amount of plant protection 

products applied every year and the development 

of grass-covered strips of land, hedges and trees. 

Organic farming and HVE certification are different 

and complementary. One is agri-environmental, 

whereas the other aims to produce an 

end wine with no pesticide residues. “It’s a bonus 

when we talk about it with private customers”, says 

Wengier. “But the schemes are still not well known 

by the general public. Most consumers think that 

HVE is the first step towards organic, whereas it is 

different and complementary”. 

PREPARATIONS AT DOMAINE VINCENT WENGIER 

THE VINEYARDS AT DOMAINE ANGST 

VIGNOBLE ANGST: 

A COUPLE WITH A MISSION 

Céline and Antoine Angst use every opportunity 

to prove their commitment to the environment. 

Although they do not come from a family of winegrowers, 

the couple founded Vignoble Angst in 2013. 

The vineyard has been converting to organic since 

2020 and is certified HVE. The aim is to turn the 

spotlight on Burgundy’s terroir through a varied 

range of wines, embracing Chablis, white and rosé 

Burgundy, Irancy and Crémant de Bourgogne. 

“Farming vines sustainably is a no-brainer for us”, 

explains Céline Angst. “We produce terroir-driven 

wines as simply as possible in stainless steel tanks 

to express the minerality of soils that are different 

to those in other regions, with as few inputs 

as possible. This is also a bonus in export markets, 

adding value to the product. For example, we have 

been selling to Canada for a year because of our 

switch-over to organic. Our buyers no longer take 

on new partners who don’t have the endorsement”. 


101

BURGUNDY 

ENDORSEMENTS 

DOMAINE CAMILLE ET LAURENT 

SCHALLER: 

ICONIC GRAPE VARIETIES 

LAURENT AND CAMILLE SCHALLER IN THEIR VINEYARDS 

Set in the heart of Chablis, the village of Préhy 

attracts many tourists for its spectacular views 

out over the hillsides and Sainte-Claire church, 

surrounded by vineyards. Laurent Shaller and his 

son Camille grow three iconic Burgundy grape 

varieties over 18 hectares – Chardonnay, Aligoté 

and Pinot noir. The vines are planted on clay-limestone 

soil, typical of Chablis, instilling the 

wines with finesse, minerality and purity. The 

wine is matured in temperature-controlled stainless 

steel tanks or barrels on fine lees. In 2020, the 

estate was awarded High Environmental Value 

certification. “In 2014, after I joined the family 

business, we started vinting and marketing our 

own wine”, recalls Camille Schaller. “The endorsement 

recognises the estate’s commitment to 

environmentally-friendly techniques, fostering a 

low-impact approach to biodiversity and minimal 

reliance on inputs”. 

FRÉDÉRIC FÉRY IN FRONT OF THE ENTRANCE TO DOMAINE JEAN FÉRY & FILS 

DOMAINE JEAN FÉRY & FILS: 

WHEN DIVERSITY BECOMES 

AN ADVANTAGE 

Set between the legendary towns of Beaune and 

Nuits-Saint-Georges, Domaine Jean Féry & Fils’ 30 

hectares of vines are spread from the North to the 

South of Burgundy. Embracing a mosaic of ‘climats’ 

or vineyard sites, the estate produces 22 different 

appellations, offering a skilful testimony to the 

region’s diversity. After taking over from his parents 

in 1988, Jean-Louis Féry sought to give his estate 

the resources to grow and invested in renovation 

work and buying vineyards. The estate switched 

to organic viticulture in 2011 and its staff is unfailing 

in its efforts to energise the property under 

the guidance of Jean-Louis’ two sons, Frédéric and 

Laurent. “Our wines are the authentic expression 

of the ‘climats’ for our 30 white and red wines”, 

explains Frédéric Féry. “Being certified organic since 

2011 is a fundamental pillar of our strategy focusing 


BURGUNDY 

ENDORSEMENTS 

A SUPERB LOCATION FOR GROWING VINES AT DOMAINE JEAN FÉRY & FILS 

on quality and respect for nature and our soils. In practice, it involves more work. For example, 

we only use machine tillage or annual digging for our soils. Work throughout the growing season 

is constant”. Every year, an audit is required to check that in-house rules are working properly. 

“From an economic perspective, the operating cost of farming organically is estimated to be 30 to 

40% higher than for conventional techniques”, says Laurent Féry. “We have seen renewed appeal 

and demand since the switch-over. The endorsement is recognised by French and international 

wine enthusiasts and is an advantage for exports, particularly to Europe and Asia”. 

HVE, AN ENDORSEMENT VERY POPULAR WITH WINEGROWERS 

Ten years after its inception in 2012, the High Environmental Value trust mark has piqued the 

interest of many Burgundy winegrowers who have made environmental issues a core focus of 

their businesses. Certification applications are developing in a logical, thoughtful way. However, 

the endorsement remains inherently French and is not necessarily a selling point in export 

markets, despite the fact that it costs more to implement than conventional techniques. HVE 

is still unfamiliar to consumers outside France, although it is starting to gain genuine traction, 

particularly in Scandinavia. Though part of a positive drive towards more earth-friendly 

practices, the downside of the schemes is that they expose vineyards more to adverse weather 

conditions and lead to greater vintage variation in the wines, which can seem less consistent and 

standardised from one year to the next. This can, obviously, be seen as an advantage and HVE is 

viewed as a sign of professionalism and a genuine commitment to the future. In the specific case 

of Burgundy, there is an expectation by consumers that growers will farm responsibly, mirroring 

the level of quality and reputation of the wines. This type of endorsement therefore offers 

a purposeful solution for meeting these expectations. 


103

VERMOUTH MAKES 

A MAJOR COMEBACK 

IN SPAIN 

BY ISABELLE ESCANDE 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 


“Fem un vermut?” In Catalonia, an invitation to “have a vermouth” has a much 

broader meaning than simply the drink itself. That’s because vermouth time 

is an almost sacred ritual where friends gather around a glass of vermouth (or 

other drinks depending on everyone’s tastes), before lunch, with crisps and a few 

olives. The atmosphere is one of casual engagement, shared by everyone, young 

and old. 

PADRÓ & CO SUPPLIES A VARIED RANGE OF VERMOUTHS, EACH WITH ITS OWN DISTINCTIVE CHARACTER 


SPAIN 

TRENDING 

BODEGA PADRÓ & CO CARRIES OUT ITS OWN NATURAL INFUSIONS 

I 

t has to be said that since it was introduced in the 19th century, vermouth has 

always been a staple of bars across Spain. Invented in the Turin region of Italy, 

and initially sold as a medicinal drink, it is named after one of the plants that 

gives it its typical bitter flavour – Artemisia (wormwood) aka ‘wermut’ in German. 

Vermouth is, more often than not, a white, fairly neutral wine fortified with spirits 

and infused with a wide variety of herbs, roots and spices – such as Artemisia, 

oregano, orange peel, chamomile, cinnamon and vanilla – that give it its warm, 

aromatic feel. 

All of this makes it an obvious favourite with bartenders. With its wonderfully 

complex flavours and bitter yet sweet style, it would soon become their go-to 

choice. Vermouth-based cocktails flourished, including the Manhattan, Negroni 

and Americano, opening many doors for Spanish bodegas which now export 

across the globe to countries like Germany, Chile, Switzerland, the United States, 

Canada, Australia and Cameroon. The bodegas have developed a long, varied list 

of customers. 

But the mixology boom that has swept across the bar world over the past few 

years – taking vermouth with it – has not just opened up markets internationally 

for Spanish firms. It has transformed consumption of vermouth in Spain itself. 

Although it never disappeared from the bar scene, it did become a little dated. 

Now, though, it has made a major comeback and has been given its own special 

occasion referred to above. Cultural events where vermouth now takes pride of 

place are legion and festivals with no vermouth concert are few and far between. 


105

SPAIN 

TRENDING 

A MODERN TWIST 

MARIO GARCÍA, WINEMAKER AT BODEGA PADRÓ & CO 

THE PADRÓ FAMILY HAS BEEN MAKING WINE AND VERMOUTH SINCE THE 19 TH CENTURY 

Although deeply entrenched in Spanish social life, 

the way vermouth is now enjoyed has changed and 

is slightly more sophisticated than it once was. 

It is still drunk neat, occasionally with a dash of 

sparkling water from a soda siphon, but is now 

served on large ice cubes with a slice of orange and 

an olive. The influence of the mixology trend has 

given it a new twist. Also, it has gradually made its 

way onto the tables of acclaimed restaurants. “The 

public is increasingly willing to try vermouth and 

food pairings”, explains Louise Jorgensen from 

Bodega Padró & Co 

Although the success of mixology partly explains 

vermouth’s present-day popularity, another 

important factor is the engagement by younger 

generations who have embraced a drink associated 

with their grandparents. Its artisanal production 

techniques meet their standards and their taste 

for sensitively produced beverages using entirely 

natural ingredients. Young consumers also have 

a penchant for lower alcohol appetisers, and with 

an ABV ranging from 14.5 to 22%, vermouth fits 

the bill. But it’s probably vermouth’s creative side 

that has drawn in new consumers keen to indulge 

their love of freedom and inventiveness. Vermouth 

is inherently an exercise in style with only vaguely 

defined rules. Each bodega has its own recipe 

which is a closely guarded secret. From the choice 

of aromatic plants to the base wine or maturation 

techniques, each has its own formula based on 

its history and preferences. Consequently, every 

vermouth tasting is full of surprises, and our selection 

illustrates this to perfection! 

PADRÓ & CO, KEEPING IT 

IN THE FAMILY 

The starting point for what would become a 

successful family venture dates back to 1886. 

The fifth generation is now at the helm of the 

winery, which is located near Tarragona. Since 

2016, it has been exporting its vermouths to 

Belgium, Germany, the United States, Canada, 


SPAIN 

TRENDING 

Great Britain, Switzerland and, until the beginning 

of this year, to Russia, says Louise Jorgensen, 

the winery’s export manager. 

The company’s success owes much to the quality 

of its vermouths. “From the vine through to the 

bottle, everything is done at the bodega”, explains 

Jorgensen, giving it control over every stage of 

production. The vermouths spend lengthy periods 

maturing in barrels and are made traditionally yet 

still sport colourful, innovative designs, which act 

as a magnet for new generations and newbies. 

The market has definitely grown in recent years, 

comments Jorgensen. In some countries, such as 

Great Britain, vermouth bars have been established, 

giving consumers access to a wider choice 

of vermouths, but also to different ways of savouring 

them. While the connection with mixology 

is still strong, vermouth is increasingly enjoyed 

as a stand-alone drink. “But there is still a long 

way to go to introduce the world to vermouth as 

it is drunk in Spain”, concludes Jorgensen. The 

company certainly seems to have a full agenda 

ahead. 

IN ADDITION TO ITS VERMOUTHS, DE MULLER 

ALSO PRODUCES A VARIED RANGE OF WINES 

DE MULLER, THE AUTHENTIC 

REUS VERMOUTH 

Although Bodega de Muller was founded in 

1999 through the acquisition of a long-standing 

Reus wine company, the recipe for its vermouth 

dates back to 1904. Since then it has remained 

unchanged and is made from a combination 

of around 150 carefully selected Mediterranean 

flowers, roots and aromatic plants. “Wormwood 

is the main ingredient», explains Elisabet Juncosa, 

the winery’s export manager. All the ingredients 

are macerated in neutral white wine. 

Three versions of vermouth are produced. The 

red is spicier while the white is more lemony and 

fruity. The ‘reserva’ is matured using the Solera 

technique in used casks that have previously 

contained wine. It is drunk on the rocks with a 

slice of orange (for the red) or lemon (for the 

white). This is a classic which, down the generations, 

has always had a following. 


107

PERUCCHI WAS THE FIRST VERMOUTH 

CREATED IN SPAIN IN 1876 

AT THE TURN OF THE 20 TH CENTURY, 

VERMOUTH WAS EXTREMELY POPULAR IN SPAIN 

“Although international sales have increased since 2008”, recounts Juncosa, “sales 

have always remained more or less stable in Spain, where the vermouth culture 

is well-established”. The tradition is now being exported, according to Bodega De 

Muller, to the United States, Australia, Ecuador and even Cameroon! 

PERUCCHI, THE PIONEER 

“In the mid-19 th century, Augustus Perucchi was the first to produce vermouth in 

Spain”, says the company’s co-owner Alex Soler. Since then, little has changed within 

the walls of the bodega, which is located in Badalona, not far from Barcelona. Modern 

labelling and bottling machines have superseded the techniques of yesteryear, but 

the antique boilers and barrels are still there. Most importantly, the recipe has not 

changed either. “It is the company’s most highly guarded secret”, quips Soler. 

To make the tradition even more relevant, each bottle of Perucchi contains a small 

percentage of vermouth that is over 150 years old. The company’s hand-crafted 

vermouths are made from natural ingredients and guaranteed to be preservative 

and antioxidant-free. More than 50 varieties of herbs, fruits and roots are used for 

the maceration process. “It’s all about balancing these ingredients,» explains Soler. 

The slightest change in proportions would break up the harmony of flavour. 

Though mindful of tradition, the company also moves with the times and makes a 

point of using environmentally-friendly materials, particularly its cork stoppers with 

wooden heads. And as an added guarantee of quality, Perucchi is a purveyor to the 

Spanish royal family... 


SPAIN 

TRENDING 

YZAGUIRRE, VERY POPULAR 

YZAGUIRRE VERMOUTHS ARE PRODUCED TRADITIONALLY AND CRAFTED BY HAND 

Founded in 1884 near Tarragona, Yzaguirre is 

one of Spain’s oldest companies. It can rightfully 

claim to produce one of the country’s most 

widely drunk vermouths. Since its inception, 

Yzaguirre has stood out for the quality of its 

drinks, which are entirely crafted by hand based 

on a recipe that is kept secret. 

“Everything is done at the bodega, with each 

stage of the production process strictly monitored. 

This starts with the painstaking selection 

of wines”, points out export area manager Ruben 

Canalda. Then come the famous blends of plants 

and spices produced for infusion, and finally 

barrel maturation. 

One of Yzaguirre’s defining features today is its 

variety of products, from Clásico, Rosé and Dry 

Reserva to Herbal Vintage, to name a few. There 

is something for every taste and every occasion, 

underscoring the fact that vermouth is much 

more than just an aperitif! 

DUBBED ‘THE WINE CATHEDRAL’, THE FALSET MARCA CO-OPERATIVE 

IS LOCATED IN FALSET, THE CAPITAL OF PRIORAT 

COOPERATIVA FALSET MARÇÀ, 

COMBINING TRADITION 

AND MODERNITY 

Founded in 1919, the Falset Marca co-operative 

cannot be missed with its impressive modernist 

architecture. It is one of the ‘wine cathedrals’ 

designed by Catalan architect Cèsar Martinell, 

an admirer of Antoni Gaudí. Since its beginnings, 

it has established a name for its wines 

and vermouths. 

True to tradition, the co-operative now makes 

three vermouths whose century-old recipe has 

been passed down through generations of the 

bodega’s winemakers. “They stem from a skilful 

fusion of elements”, explains Núria Vilanova, 

the co-operative’s communications manager. “A 

flavourful bitter touch in good wine”, produced 

by infusing more than one hundred and twenty 

aromatic plants, all from the region. 

These are all carefully matured, particularly the 

Vermut Reserva, which is aged for two years in 


109

BODEGAS NODUS PRODUCES ITS VERMOUTHS FROM ITS OWN WINES 

MADE FROM NATIVE GRAPE VARIETIES 

ADOLFO DE LAS HERAS POLO SUCCEEDED HIS 

FATHER AT THE HELM OF BODEGAS NODUS 

large, century-old barrels and a further three years in French oak, so that its 

aromas of thyme, rosemary and green walnuts develop into notes of coffee, 

vanilla and tobacco. “This is a complex pour, best enjoyed on its own, with a few 

ice cubes”, recommends Vilanova. 

BODEGAS NODUS, 

THE MEDITERRANEAN TOUCH 

With its 540 hectares of vines and woodland located in one of the top areas in the 

Utiel-Requena appellation (Valencia), Bodega Nodus only began making vermouth 

five years ago, with a focus on creating a different type of vermouth with distinctive 

freshness and a Mediterranean accent. 

Two native grape varieties, obviously grown on the estate, were used to produce 

the new drink. These are Macabeu for the white vermouth and Bobal for the red 

iteration, which lends the nose aromas of Mediterranean herbs, citrus fruits, cloves 

and cardamom. 

“These aromatic plants are absolutely key to producing a good vermouth”, claims 

Marisa Donnan of Bodega Nodus. They have to be natural, more often than not 

dried, and can under no circumstances be replaced by artificial ingredients. 

“Otherwise, the vermouth would lose its aroma the minute it is served”, she adds. 

The complexity of the nose aromas is designed to carry through to the palate, with 

impeccably balanced bitterness and sweetness. The Bodega’s Descaro vermouth 

certainly ticks all the boxes! 


ÁNGELA PARDO, 

THE WINEMAKER 

AT BODEGAS NODUS 

HISTORIC RIOJA BODEGA 

MARTÍNEZ LACUESTA 

LOCATED IN RIOJA 

ALTA, ALTANZA STEMS 

FROM A SHARED DREAM 

OF PRODUCING TOP 

QUALITY WINES 


111

SPAIN 

TRENDING 

MARTÍNEZ LACUESTA, 

NOVEL MATURATION TECHNIQUES 

Renowned Rioja bodega, Martínez Lacuesta was established in 1895, but only 

began producing vermouth in 1937. And it has never looked back. Although 

it has held onto its original recipe and artisanal production methods, it has 

constantly tested new maturation combinations, using different wood casks, 

toasts and lengths of maturation. That’s what comes of being based in Rioja… 

Family-run since the outset, the company now markets its drinks in Spain, but 

also in the United States – its main import country – Australia, South Africa 

and Canada, explains Virginia Ibáñez, adding “mixology accounts for 90% of 

consumption abroad. Our main challenge is to demonstrate vermouth’s potential 

as a stand-alone appetiser and not as a cocktail ingredient”. 

The Bodega makes a point of constantly innovating, taking consumers by 

surprise and hitting the right note. It has certainly succeeded, with its barrel 

maturation and more recently its Extra Dry, a version with very little sweetness 

that aligns well with the latest consumer trends. 

THE COMPANY’S WINEMAKER ÁLVARO MARTÍNEZ DEL CASTILLO 


SPAIN 

TRENDING 

ALTANZA, WHEN VERMOUTH 

RHYMES WITH RIOJA 

AND JEREZ 

CARLOS FERREIRO, THE WINEMAKER AT ALTANZA 

Located in the heart of Rioja Alta, Bodega Altanza 

made a lasting impression on the history of 

modern-day Spanish vermouth four years ago 

by launching a range of vermouths made from 

quality sherries in conjunction with the largest 

sherry collector in the world. The releases were 

an instant success and the idea has since been 

replicated by other wineries. 

The company’s Amillo vermouth comes in two 

versions made from a selection of sherries, 

olorosos and Pedro Jimenez. After blending, 

thirty or so aromatic plants, roots and flowers 

macerate in them. Slightly more herbaceous with 

a trace of sourness, the Reserva Especial matures 

for 14 months in French oak casks. 

Crafted with the utmost care, both Altanza 

labels have established a pedigree for sherry 

vermouths. “And that touch of sophistication 

is exactly what the younger generations like”, 

explains the winery’s Stephanie Abel Guardia. 

They show an interest in drinks that require a lot 

of attention during the production process and 

appreciate the kind of alchemy needed to craft 

vermouth. The countless commercially available 

mixology kits are a testament to this fascination. 

Vermouth now is synonymous with craftsmanship, 

rich aromatics and a dash of magic! 

IN 2029, BODEGAS ALVEAR WILL CELEBRATE ITS 300TH ANNIVERSARY 

BODEGAS ALVEAR, 

AN IMPRESSIVE ANDALUSIAN 

VERSION 

We now head for Andalusia, to the heart of the 

Montilla-Moriles appellation area. Founded 

in 1729, Alvear is now the region’s oldest, but 

also its most highly renowned winery. Down 

through the years, it has successfully proven 

what a versatile grape Pedro Ximenez – the king 

of local grape varieties – can be through a very 

varied range of wines, including Fino, Oloroso 

and dry white, to name a few. 


113

LÉGENDES 

FERNANDO GIMÉNEZ ALVEAR, THE EIGHTH GENERATION 

OF THE ALVEAR FAMILY, IS NOW THE WINERY’S CEO 

SERGIO PANIAGUA, THE YOUNG 

GORDONZELLO WINEMAKER 

“At the end of the 19th century, the company began to create a vermouth – 

obviously from Pedro Ximenez – but it was only in 1955 that it produced the 

recipe that is used today”, says the winery’s Victor Arroyo. 

A closely guarded secret, the artisanal recipe is based on Pedro Ximenez 

Oloroso, painstakingly matured in very old American oak casks then 

macerated with a range of herbs, plants and spices including wormwood, 

rosemary, sage, sweet cinnamon and orange peel. And to provide its final 

softness, fresh and elegant Pedro Ximenez is added. It’s that Andalusian 

touch that makes all the difference! 

GORDONZELLO, A PROMISING START 

Now we come to the youngest vermouth in our selection. Just an infant, the 

vermouth by Bodegas Gordonzello, dubbed Pelirrojo, was presented this 

year. But it has already attracted attention with its innovative, laid-back 

look – a show-stopping red bottle with its slightly roguish label. 

Founded in 1995 by 101 winegrowers determined to give their old vines in 

Gordoncillo (León) a second chance and resurrect the local wine industry – 

that was in dire need of aid at the time – the winery has never been afraid 

of a challenge. Its young head winemaker Sergio Paniagua, who has only 

just turned 27, would certainly have to agree. 

Once again, the winery has proven this with its new-generation vermouth 

that is bound to appeal to a wide audience. The single varietal Verdejo 

vermouth – from the winery’s own vineyards, of course – is made from 

white wine macerated with around fifteen aromatic plants. This delicious 

pour provides further illustration of the fact that vermouth has a very bright 

future ahead. 


CAMERON DIAZ: 

FROM ACTING TO 

MAKING WINE 

BY FRANK ROUSSEAU, 

OUR CORRESPONDENT 

IN THE UNITED STATES 

PHOTOGRAPHS: 

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED 

For the erstwhile heroine of ‘The Mask’, ‘Charlie’s Angels’ and ‘Something about 

Mary’, cinema is a thing of the past. After choosing to distance herself from a 

world of make-believe and rediscover a taste for the simpler things, it was only 

natural that Cameron Diaz should turn to producing wine. And just like the 

California belle herself, her wine certainly has character. 

Tell us about your close personal relationship 

with wine 

When I was 20 years old, I had a really unique experience. 

I got to taste an incredible wine and was able to hear 

experts talk about it. I was immediately fascinated by the world 

of wine because it very much revolved around passion and 

doing a job well, patience, tradition and the desire to strive for 

excellence. These are values that struck a chord with me! 

Almost twenty-five years on and here you are, 

making your own wine. How did that happen? 

My friend, Katherine Power – the founder of the fashion 

website Who What Wear – and I set out in 2014 to create an 

organic wine brand. Its name is Avaline. Right from the word 

go, our intention was clear and that was to provide lovers of 

local products with wines made from quality organic ingredients. 

For years, I just assumed that all wines were made 

from organic grapes. It never occurred to me that wine could 

be made from anything other than beautiful fruit! I can’t tell 

you how shocked I was to discover the ingredients that some 

wineries could add to it. We supply two types of wine, a white 

and a rosé. When we started our venture, we had absolutely 

no knowledge of how the industry worked. But we did know 

one thing. As lovers of fine wines, we were always surprised 

by the lack of transparency of certain labels. It was as if they 

were hiding what was in the bottle and therefore in our glasses! 


115

STARS 

& WINE 

CAMERON DIAZ WITH KATHERINE POWER 

Avaline fully focuses on transparency… 

Yes, we don’t conceal anything. From the grapes to the glue on the labels and the 

products used to clean our facilities, our tanks, everything is organic and non-toxic. 

The problem in the industry is that you have brands that sometimes add 70 additives 

to make their wines longer on the palate, give them a more attractive colour... The 

craziest thing is that they don’t even have to tell you about it! 

Do you think that the public has expectations in this regard? 

People today want to know what they are paying for and what they are consuming. 

We really listen to our customers and our retailers, not to mention our winegrowers. 

We only work with people who love their job and have worked in the industry for 

generations. This is important because they only want one thing, and that is that 

their passion continues and shows respect for traditions. Their expertise and the 

values they share with us have enabled Katherine and I to provide quality wines – 

wines that are accessible and treat the environment and human beings with respect. 

You say that your wines are ‘vegan’. Isn’t that a bit of a marketing 

gimmick? 

It isn’t for customers who are and who want to be sure that the wine we supply them 

is 100% plant-based. It is not uncommon for winegrowers to use certain products to 

remove particles and residual yeast suspended in the wine. In the wine world, this 

is called clarification. Some wines contain gelatine, fish glue, egg white and even 

milk protein! At Avaline we want none of that! 


CONTACT 

DETAILS 

BORDEAUX - Pages 10 - 24 

• Château Mongravey: Tel. +33 5 56 58 84 51 - 

www.chateau-mongravey.fr 

• Château de Villambis: Tel. +33 5 56 73 90 90 - 

www.chateaudevillambis.com 

• Uni-Médoc: Tel. +33 5 56 09 01 02 - 

www.uni-medoc.com 

• Château Rousseau de Sipian: 

Tel. +33 5 56 41 54 92 - http://vin-du-medoc.fr 

• Château de Malleret: Tel. +33 5 56 35 05 36 - 

www.chateau-malleret.fr 

• Vignobles Roux, Château Plagnac: 

Tel. 33 5 56 61 98 93 - www.vignobles-roux.com/ 

RHONE VALLEY - Pages 26 - 36 

• Domaine du Bon Remède: Tel. +33 4 90 69 69 76 - 

domainedubonremede@orange.fr 

• Caves de Pazac: Tel. +33 4 66 57 59 95 - 

cavedepazac30@gmail.com 

• Château Isolette: Tel. +33 4 90 74 16 70 - 

contact@isolette.fr 

• Domaine de Tara: Tel. +33 4 90 05 74 87 - 

domainedetara@orange.fr 

• Domaine du Grand Jacquet: 

Tel. +33 4 90 63 24 87 - domaine@granjacquet.fr 

• Château Mourgues du Grès: 

Tel. +33 4 66 59 46 10 - 

chateau@mourguesdugres.com 

MUSCADET - Pages 37 - 45 

• Château de La Preuille P&C Dumortier: 

Tel. + 33 2 51 46 32 32 - 

chateaudelapreuille@gmail.com 

• Vignobles Véronique Günther-Chéreau: 

Tel. +33 2 40 54 85 24 - www.vgc.fr 

• Domaine des Iles: Tel. +33 2 51 34 54 38 - 

domainedesiles.fr@gmail.com 

• Château de l’Epinay: Tel. + 33 2 40 36 92 38 - 

www.muscadet-vignoblerobert.com 

• Domaine du Haut Fresne: Tel. +33 2 40 98 26 79 - 

www.renou-freres.com 

• Domaine Claude-Michel Pichon: 

Tel. +33 2 40 06 74 29 - cmpichon@orange.fr 

ITALY - Pages 46 - 55 

• Ca’ del bosco: Tel. +39 030 7766111 - 

www.cadelbosco.com 

• Castello Bonomi: Tel. +39 030 7721015 - 

www.castellobonomi.it 

• La Boscaiola “Vigneti Cenci”: 

Tel. +39 030 7156386 - www.vigneticenci.com 

• Vezzoli Ugo: Tel. +39 030 738018 - 

www.vezzolifranciacorta.it 

• Cantine Biondelli : Tel. +39 331 1314144 - 

www.www.biondelli.com 

• Castel Faglia: Tel. +39 030 7751042 - 

www.castelfaglia.it 

GERMANY - Pages 56 - 65 

• Ruppertsberg Wine Cellar: 

Tel. +49 6326 962970 - www.ruppertsberger.de 

• Schönlaub: Tel. +49 6343 81 42 - 

https://weingut-schoenlaub.de/en/ 

• Mohr: Tel. +39 6726 94 84 - 

http://www.weingut-mohr.de 

• Studier: Tel. +49 6237 977 280 - 

https://weingut-studier.de/ 

• Einig-Zenzen: Tel. +49 2653 9907 24 - 

https://einig-zenzen.de/en/weinhandel-einigzenzen.html 

SPAIN - Pages 66 - 73 

• Bodegas La Granadilla: Tel. +34 645 871 429 - 

www.bodegaslagranadilla.es 

• Bodegas Francisco Casas: Tel. +34 980 698 032 - 

www.bodegascasas.com 

• Valdemonjas: Tel. +34 983 24 82 94 - 

www.valdemonjas.com 

• Bodegas Nexus: Tel. +34 983 88 04 88 - 

www.nexusfrontaura.com 

• Bodegas Santa Rufina: Tel. +34 638 123 703 - 

http://bodegassantarufina.com/ 

SOUTH AFRICA - Pages 74 - 83 

• CapeWine: Tel: +27 21 883 3860 - 

www.capewine2022.com 

• Wines of South Africa: Tel: +27 21 883 3860 - 

www.wosa.co.za 

• Conservation Champions: 

www.wwf.org.za/our_work/initiatives/ 

conservation_champions 

• La Motte Estate: Tel. +27 21 876 8000 - 

www.la-motte.com 

• Spier: Tel. +27 21 809 1143 - www.spier.co.za/wine 

CASTILLON - Pages 84 - 92 

• Seignouret frères & Cie: Tel. +33 5 57 87 02 56 - 

www.seignouret.com 

• Vignobles Alain Aubert: Tel. +33 5 57 40 15 76 - 

www.aubert-vignobles.com 

• Château Bréhat: Tel. +33 5 57 40 18 09 - 

www.haut-rocher.com/les-vins/chateau-brehat. 

html 

• Union de Producteurs de Saint-Emilion: 

Tel. +33 5 57 24 70 71 - www.udpse.com/ 

BURGUNDY Pages 94 - 103 

• Domaine Jessiaume: Tel. +33 3 80 20 60 03 - 

www.jessiaume.com 

• Domaine Doreau: Tel. +33 3 80 21 27 89 - 

www.domaine-doreau.fr 

• Domaine Berger-Rive: Tel. +33 3 85 91 13 81 - 

www.berger-rive.fr 

• Domaine Yvon et Laurent Vocoret: 

Tel. +33 3 86 47 51 60 - 

www.yvon-laurent-vocoret.com 

• Domaine Vincent Wengier: Tel. +33 6 51 22 77 39 - 

www.chablis-wengier.fr 

• Vignoble Angst: Tel. +33 3 86 40 17 33 - 

www.vignobleangst.com 

• Domaine Camille et Laurent Schaller: 

Tel. +33 6 51 22 77 39 - www.chablis-schaller.com 

• Domaine Jean Féry & Fils: 

Tel. +33 3 80 21 59 60 - www.jeanfery.fr 

SPAIN - Pages 104 - 114 

• Padró & Co: Tel. +34 977 62 00 12 - 

ljorgensen@padroifamilia.com 

• De Muller: Tel. +34 977 757 473 - 

nacional@demuller.es 

• Perucchi: Tel. +34 93 384 26 26 - 

info@perucchi1876.com 

• Yzaguirre: Tel. +34 977 840 655 - 

rcanalda@vermutyzaguirre.com 

• Cooperativa Falset Marçà: Tel. +34 977 830 105 - 

nuria@etim.cat 

• Bodegas Nodus: Tel. +34 962 174 029 - 

marisa@bodegasnodus.com 

• Martínez Lacuesta: Tel. +34 941 310 050 - 

bodega@martinezlacuesta.com 

• Altanza: Tel. +34 941 450 860 - 

altanza@altanza.com 

• Bodegas Alvear: Tel. +34 957 650 100 - 

comercial@alvear.es 

• Gordonzello: Tel. +34 987 758 030 - 

info@gordonzello.com 


117

PAGES 119 TO 130 

TOP WINES 

OUR AUTUMN SELECTION 

The third session of 2022 

Once again, the third session of tastings was very promising with wines running the gamut 

from new discoveries, reliable choices and the classics to more exotic and rare offerings but 

also the household names. Countless producer countries now take part, confirming day after 

day the Gilbert & Gaillard International Challenge’s virtually global reach. 

TYPICAL COUNTRYSIDE IN THE FRANCIACORTA REGION AND APPELLATION IN LOMBARDY (VIGNETI CENCI). 

THE BEST OF AUTUMN 2022 

Our selection for this quarter takes you on a journey to Bordeaux, Castilla y León, the Western Cape and 

Lombardy. We turn the spotlight on Crus Bourgeois, the major category of Bordeaux wine which in 2020 

gained a newly minted classification. We also celebrate wines from Ribera del Duero, Cigales, Toro and 

Rueda, some absolute gems from a Spanish region which is increasingly gaining traction. Find out which 

are South Africa’s most earth-friendly wines in our extensive selection of organic and sustainable offerings, 

and learn more about Franciacorta and its delectable sparkling wines, probably Italy’s finest. 

THE TASTING PANEL: 

PHILIPPE GAILLARD - FRANÇOIS GILBERT - SYLVAIN PATARD 

OLIVIER DELORME - JAMES TURNBULL - BRUNO MICHAL - MATTHIEU GAILLARD - FRANÇOIS BEZUIDENHOUT 


FRANCE - MÉDOC 


FRANCE 

Crus Bourgeois are back, bolstered 

by their new classification released 

in 2020. Below is our selection of 

21 chateaux whose prices are as 

appealing as their flavour! 

BORDEAUX 

HAUT-MÉDOC 

CHÂTEAU MARTIN 92/100 

D VINTAGE 2016: Intense garnet with 

some bricking. Splendid, Médoc-style 

nose of blackcurrant, plum, coffee, fine 

spices and a toast touch. The palate is rich 

and full-bodied, combining freshness and 

elegance. A beautiful classic wine, nearing 

its peak. Set aside for the Sunday roast. 

Price: € 8.50 

Château Martin +33 5 56 41 97 29 

CHÂTEAU DE MALLERET 91/100 

CONV D VINTAGE 2019: Darkly coloured 

with young, vibrant red reflections. Intense 

nose with fruit tones underscored by 

elegant oakiness. The same noble structure 

and aromas flow through to the palate. 

A wine with good breed and undeniable 

potential. 

http://www.chateau-malleret.fr Price: € 25.50 

Château de Malleret +33 5 56 35 05 36 

CHÂTEAU GRAND CLAPEAU OLIVIER 

89/100 

D VINTAGE 2018 

Price: € 10.00 

Château Grand Clapeau Olivier +33 5 56 95 00 89 

CHÂTEAU DE VILLAMBIS 87/100 

CONV D VINTAGE 2018 

http://www.chateaudevillambis.com Price: € 10.50 

Château de Villambis +33 5 56 73 90 90 

CHÂTEAU ANEY 86/100 


http://www.vignobles.fayat.com Price: € 10.00 

Vignobles Clément Fayat +33 5 57 51 31 36 

CHÂTEAU MURET 86/100 


http://www.chateau-muret.com Price: € 10.00 

Château Muret +33 5 56 59 38 11 

CHÂTEAU TROIS MOULINS 86/100 

CR D VINTAGE 2017 

http://www.cambon-la-pelouse.com Price: € 8.00 

Cambon la Pelouse +33 5 57 88 40 32 

MARGAUX 

CHÂTEAU MONGRAVEY 91/100 

D VINTAGE 2018: Intense garnet 

with youthful highlights. Shy yet racy 

nose suffused with fine spice and fruit 

layered over toasted oak. Elegant, tense, 

concentrated palate that is not very open 

yet but delivers admirable intensity 

and extremely refined tannins. A very 

promising Margaux. 

http://www.chateau-mongravey.fr Price: € 18.00 

Château Mongravey +33 5 56 58 84 51 

MÉDOC 

CHÂTEAU DE LA CROIX 92/100 

CR D VINTAGE 2019: Deep ruby-red with 

crimson reflections. Alluring nose of red 

and black fruits with white pepper notes. 

The palate is powerful and balanced with 

velvety tannins that are already very soft. 

Great peppery freshness on the finish. 

Serve with grilled meats. 

http://www.chateau-de-la-croix.com Price: € 11.00 

Château de la Croix +33 5 56 09 04 14 

THE EXTENSIVE TANK ROOM AT CHÂTEAU DE MALLERET IN LE PIAN-MÉDOC. 


119

FRANCE - MOULIS 


CHÂTEAU ROUSSEAU DE SIPIAN IN ITS TYPICAL MÉDOC SETTING. ©CLAUDE CLIN 

CHÂTEAU DES TOURELLES 90/100 

D VINTAGE 2020: Concentrated red with 

ruby reflections. Delicately oaky nose with 

sloe and blackcurrant taking the lead role, 

along with sweet spices. The palate shows 

sappy weight supported by supple tannins, 

elegant oakiness and noble fruit. Young 

and promising. 

Price: € 10.00 

Macrolink France +33 5 56 09 00 10 

CHÂTEAU GREYSAC 90/100 

CR D VINTAGE 2012: Beautiful deep 

colour with faint bricking. The nose is 

more mature with humus and forest floor 

tones. The palate is balanced, very ripe and 

ready to drink, revealing tertiary aromas 

that lovers of the style will enjoy. Drink 

now. 

http://www.rollandeby.com Price: € 15.00 

Domaines Rollan de By +33 5 56 41 58 59 

CHÂTEAU PLAGNAC 90/100 

D VINTAGE 2018: Dark, bright, young 

red. Profound, fruit-forward nose with 

a subtle mineral and oaky tone in the 

background. The palate shows good 

weight and freshness. Aroma is perfectly 

showcased within a harmonious structure. 

http://www.vignobles-roux.com/ 

Vignobles Roux +33 5 56 61 98 93 

CHÂTEAU LA GORRE 89/100 


http://www.savas-sa.fr 

vSavas +33 5 56 92 62 96 

CHÂTEAU LA FLEUR LAMOTHE 

88/100 


http://www.chateaufleurlamothe.fr Price: € 14.00 

Château Fleur La Mothe +33 5 56 62 35 01 

CHÂTEAU LA GORRE 88/100 


http://www.millesium.net Price: € 12.00 

Château La Gorre +33 5 56 41 52 62 

CHÂTEAU L’ARGENTEYRE 88/100 


Price: € 9.00 

Vignobles Reich +33 5 56 41 52 34 

CHÂTEAU BESSAN SÉGUR 87/100 


http://www.sovex-grandschateaux.com Price: € 7.99 

Sovex Grandschateaux +33 5 56 77 81 00 

CHÂTEAU DE PANIGON 87/100 


Price: € 12.00 

DWL France +33 5 56 41 37 00 

CHÂTEAU GRAVAT 87/100 


http://www.chevalquancard.com 

Cheval Quancard +33 5 57 77 88 88 

CHÂTEAU GRAVAT 86/100 


http://www.ymau.com Price: € 6.00 

Yvon Mau +33 5 56 61 54 54 

MOULIS 

CHÂTEAU BISTON-BRILLETTE 90/100 

D VINTAGE 2019: Deep ruby-red with 

crimson tints. Nose of ripe black fruits 

with touches of violet and graphite. 

Powerful, silky palate with harnessed, 

well-integrated tannins. Cellar for a few 

years or decant before serving. 

http://www.chateaubistonbrillette.com Price: € 18.50 

Château Biston-Brillette +33 5 56 58 22 86 


ITALY - FRANCIACORTA D.O.C.G. 


ITALY 

Delve deep into the heart of an Italian 

wine region whose size has kept it 

slightly under the radar. 

Tune your senses into Franciacorta 

and its exquisite sparkling wines. 

LOMBARDY 

FRANCIACORTA D.O.C.G. 

BIONDELLI 94/100 

ORG D PAS DOSÉ - PREMIÈRE DAME 2015: 

Yellow-gold. Nose of dill, resin, toast and 

white flower infusion accented by pear, 

apple and stewed peach. The palate is 

delicious and very fleshy with a generous 

aromatic edge. Ample finish and delicate 

texture. A benchmark. 

http://www.biondelli.com Price: € 35.00 

Cantine Biondelli +39 0307 75 9896 

BIONDELLI 93/100 

ORG D BRUT SATEN : Bright yellowgold. 

Nose of dried fruits, stone fruits, 

green fruits and a note of flower honey. 

Invigorating palate where vinosity is 

harnessed by freshness. Saline finish with 

complex aromatics. A generous, mouthwatering 

wine for a romantic dinner. 

http://www.biondelli.com Price: € 25.00 

Cantine Biondelli +39 0307 75 9896 

BORGO LA GALLINACCIA 93/100 

D EXTRA BRUT RISERVA GIACHESEILI’ 2011: 

Straw-gold. Creamy pastry feel on the nose 

with very mouth-watering tropical fruit. 

The palate is delightful yet still shows 

genuine complexity of flavour. Delicate 

bubbles provide supple, fresh guidance in 

this inclusive Extra Brut wine. 

http://www.borgolagallinaccia.it Price: € 40.00 

Borgo La Gallinaccia +39 0306 81 0391 

CASTELLO BONOMI 93/100 

D EXTRA BRUT - RISERVA LUCREZIA 

- ETICHETTA NERA 2008: Light yellow. 

Delicate nose marrying stone fruits, 

peach, toast and floral touches. Rounded, 

ample, vinous palate with well-integrated 

effervescence delivering effusive racy, 

complex aromas. Deliciously soft 

mouthfeel. A real treat. 

http://www.paladin.it/ Price: € 85.00 

Paladin +39 0422 76 8167 

LA BOSCAIOLA - VIGNETI CENCI 93/100 

D ZERO - NO DOSAGE : Brilliant yellowgold. 

Generous nose intermixing white 

fruits and dried fruits, almond, milky and 

brioche-like notes. Rich, vinous, lively 

palate where the aromatics are enhanced by 

spice and mineral notes. This distinguished 

wine offers up great complexity. 

http://www.laboscaiola.com Price: € 26.00 

La Boscaiola - Vigneti Cenci +39 0307 15 6386 

LA BOSCAIOLA - VIGNETI CENCI 93/100 

D EXTRA BRUT NELSON CENCI : Beautiful 

pale yellow-gold with brilliant highlights 

and very fine bubbles. Appealing nose of 

flowers and white fruits with a toasted 

brioche note. Clean, satisfying palate 

revealing superb preserved lemon notes 

then fine sourness on the finish. Drink as 

an aperitif. 

http://www.laboscaiola.com Price: € 30.00 

La Boscaiola - Vigneti Cenci +39 0307 15 6386 

BORGO LA GALLINACCIA 91/100 

D BRUT SATENASSO 2016: Brilliant light 

gold. Delicate brioche-like nose with 

white flower, citrus fruit and ripe peach 

aromas. Freshness provides a great frame 

for the palate which is gifted with a creamy 

mellow feel and fleshy fruit score. Very 

comfortable, structured finish. Beautiful. 

http://www.borgolagallinaccia.it Price: € 28.00 

Borgo La Gallinaccia +39 0306 81 0391 

CASTELLO BONOMI (PALADIN) AND ITS TYPICAL FRANCIACORTA SCENERY. 

CASTEL FAGLIA 91/100 

D BRUT NATURE 2016: Bright, intense 

gold. The nose is an all-rounder, with 

pastry, floral, honeyed notes, nuts, white 

fruits and dried fruits. Very supple palate 

with silky effervescence and an energetic, 

smooth finish. This is a mouth-watering 

style for a romantic aperitif. 

http://www.castelfaglia.it Price: € 18.00 

Castel Faglia +39 0307 75 1042 

CASTELLO BONOMI 91/100 

D DOSAGGIO ZERO 2011: Light yellow. 

Generous nose intermixing fresh and dried 

white fruits, fine oxidative and floral notes 

and morello cherry. Full, soft, concentrated 

palate offering up a lovely harmonious 

feel. A beautiful wine showing splendid 

intensity and purity that works with 

shellfish. 

http://www.paladin.it/ Price: € 26.00 

Paladin +39 0422 76 8167 

CASTEL FAGLIA 90/100 

D BRUT SATÈN : Shimmering light gold. 

Lovely display of stewed white fruits, 

almond notes and white flower infusion. 

The palate is fresh and elegant with mouthfilling 

weight and delicate bubbles. The 

flavours are noble, expressive and mouthcoating. 

http://www.castelfaglia.it Price: € 15.00 

Castel Faglia +39 0307 75 1042 


121

SOUTH AFRICA - CENTRAL ORANGE RIVER 


SOUTH AFRICA 

The South Africans have fully taken 

on board the fact that sustainability 

is an issue that goes way beyond the 

present times and is needed to save 

our future. Below are around one 

hundred earth-friendly wines from 

the Western Cape. 

NORTHERN CAPE 

CENTRAL ORANGE RIVER 

REGOPSTAAN 93/100 

D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2021: Light yellow. 

Grenadilla and litchi on the very fragrant 

nose. Palate is full, but elegant with 

gooseberry and a tangy note following 

the nose. Layered and complex. Excellent. 

Drink though 2029. 

http://www.orangeriverwines.com Price: € 9.00 

Orange River Cellars +27 54 337 8800 

OMSTAAN 92/100 


Creamy nose with hints of vanilla. Ripe 

and full on the palate with creamy notes 

following from the nose. A tangy and 

crisp note on the long finish. Layered and 

complex. Drink through 2028. 

http://www.orangeriverwines.com Price: € 9.00 

Orange River Cellars +27 54 337 8800 

WESTERN CAPE 

JAKKALSVLEI 92/100 

D MOUNT CUVÉE 2022: Dark ruby colour. 

Ripe berry fruit on the nose complimented 

by toasty oak and soft tannins. Well 

integrated with a lengthy finish. Needs 

further cellaring, but enjoyable now. 

http://www,jakkalsvlei.co.za Price: € 9.00 

Jakkalsvlei Vineyards +27 44 333 0222 

BOSCHENDAL 91/100 

D BRUT ROSÉ NV: Attractive colour, 

energetic fine mousse. A medley of red 

berries offers an attractive nose, balanced 

residual sugar and acid. Refreshing 

mouthfeel and length. Will age well. 

http://www.dgb.co.za Price: € 10.52 

DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200 

16 MILE BEACH 90/100 

D ROOIPAN ROSÉ 2021: Very light onion 

skin. Red berry notes and candyfloss on 

the nose. Palate is elegant and layered 

with red cherry and raspberry following 

from the nose. Lengthy finish with a wellintegrated, 

but present acidity. Very well 

made. Drink through 2025. 

http://www.blakefamilywines.com Price: € 5.00 

Blake Family Wines +27 82 922 6162 


D PRESTIGE CUVEÉ JEAN LE LONG 2009: 

Straw yellow in color with green rim. 

Toasted bread, yeasty, dried apple and pear 

on the bouquet. Excellent balance, grippy 

mid-palate with extended finish. Drink in 

the next year. 


DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200 

KEN FORRESTER 90/100 

D THE GYPSY 2017: Ruby brick. Developed 

nose with hints of leather and dried fruit. 

Rich and full on the matured palate with 

red berry notes and prunes on the sour 

cherry finish. Layered and complex. Keep 

for a few more years. 

http://www.kenforresterwines.com Price: € 30.00 

Ken Forrester Wines +27 21 85 52 374 


D BRUT NV 


DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200 

MISCHA 89/100 

ORG D LA FAMILLE MERLOT 2021 

Price: € 5.58 

Mischa Estate +27 21 864 1020 

VINEYARD FRIENDS 89/100 

D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2021 


DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200 


D CHENIN BLANC 2021: 


DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200 

JAKKALSVLEI 88/100 

D MERLOT 2021 

http://www,jakkalsvlei.co.za Price: € 5.50 

Jakkalsvlei Vineyards +27 44 333 0222 

NEDERBURG WINEMASTERS 88/100 

D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020 

http://www.distell.co.za Price: € 2.00 

Distell +27 21 886 5640 

SIX HATS 88/100 

D SHIRAZ 2020 

http://www.piekenierskloofwines.co.za Price: € 3.75 

Piekenierskloof Wine Company +27 22 921 2233 

DEETLEFS 87/100 

D STONECROSS SHIRAZ 2020 

http://www.deetlefs.com Price: € 4.39 

Deetlefs Wine Estate +27 23 349 1260 

MISCHA 87/100 

ORG D ACCORDANCE 2021 

Price: € 8.23 

Mischa Estate +27 21 864 1020 

NAMYSTO 87/100 

D SHIRAZ CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2017 

http://www.quoinrock.com 

Quoin Rock +27 21 888 4740 

BIG MOUTH 86/100 

D LUSCIOUS WHITE 

http://www.overhex.com Price: € 3.80 

Overhex Wines +27 23 347 6838 


D LUXE NECTAR NV 


DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200 

LAND\’S END 86/100 


http://www.dutoitskloof.co.za Price: € 3.00 

Du Toitskloof Wines +27 23 349 1601 

DU TOITSKLOOF 85/100 

D MERLOT 2020 

http://www.dutoitskloof.co.za Price: € 3.00 

Du Toitskloof Wines +27 23 349 1601 

FRISKY ZEBRAS 85/100 

D GAME RANGER RESERVE SEDUCTIVE 

SHIRAZ NV 

https://www.leopard-frog.com/ Price: € 2.95 

Leopard Frog Vineyards +27 82 499 4995 

GAME RANGER RESERVE 85/100 

D SENSUOUS SAUVIGNON BLANC NV 

https://www.leopard-frog.com/ Price: € 2.95 

Leopard Frog Vineyards +27 82 499 4995 


D MERLOT MALBEC 2020 


DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200 


SOUTH AFRICA - ROBERTSON - BONNIEVALE 



D PINOTAGE 2020 


DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200 

ALVI’S DRIFT 83/100 

D SIGNATURE PINOTAGE 2021 

Price: € 3.83 

Alvi’s Drift Cellar +27 81 331 2196 

ALVI’S DRIFT 82/100 

D SIGNATURE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 

2021 

Price: € 3.83 

Alvi’s Drift Cellar +27 81 331 2196 

WESTERN CAPE - BREEDE 

RIVER VALLEY 

BREEDEKLOOF 


D METHODE CAP CLASSIQUE 2018: 

Light yellow. Subdued nose with hints of 

fresh lime. Palate is crisp and refreshing 

with fruit salad and quince on the finish. 

Complex and rich with a lengthy finish. 

Drink thorugh 2018. 




D VOYAGE 3566.1 2018 




D PINOTAGE 2018 



ROBERTSON 

BON COURAGE ESTATE 91/100 

D JACQUES BRUÉRE BRUT RESERVE 2013: 

Yellow straw. Smoky and toasty on the rich 

nose. Palate is lively and refreshing with a 

tangy lime peel note on the aftertaste. Fine 

mousse and a racy acidity that will help 

this wine to age. Drink through 2027. 

Price: € 13.66 

Bon courage Estate +27 23 626 4178 

LOZÄRN WINES 91/100 

D CABERNET FRANC 2021: Bright ruby 

red. Orange blossom, tea leaf, wild fig 

with hints of cinnamon, cedar wood and 

oak nuances. Firm grippy tannins to add 

to midpalate weight and length. Drink 

through to 2025. Excellent example of 

Cabernet Franc. 

Price: € 12.43 

Lozärn Wines +27 82 576 8093 

BON COURAGE ESTATE 89/100 

D JACQUES BRUÉRE CUVEÉ ROSÉ BRUT 

2013 

GUESTS AT LA MOTTE IN FRANSCHHOEK ARE INVITED TO SHARE THE ESTATE’S PASSION FOR 

Price: € 13.66 

Bon courage Estate +27 23 626 4178 

LOZÄRN WINES 88/100 

D CARMÉNËRE 2021 

Price: € 29.32 

Lozärn Wines +27 82 576 8093 

SUSTAINABILITY THROUGH DEDICATED EXPERIENCES. 

EXCELSIOR 86/100 

D CHARDONNAY 2022 

http://www.excelsior.co.za Price: € 2.46 

Excelsior Wine Estate +27 23 615 1980 

EXCELSIOR 82/100 

D PADDOCK SHIRAZ 2021 

http://www.excelsior.co.za Price: € 2.46 

Excelsior Wine Estate +27 23 615 1980 

ROBERTSON - BONNIEVALE 

WELTEVREDE 92/100 

D POET’S PRAYER 2021: Yellow straw. 

Citrus and vanilla on the rich nose. Palate is 

complex and layered with marmelade and 

citrus following from the nose. Lengthy 

and full on the finish. Drink through 2028. 

Price: € 25.00 

Weltevrede Estate +27 23 616 2141 


123

SOUTH AFRICA - ELGIN 


WELTEVREDE 91/100 

D BRUT THE RING 2013: Yellow straw. 

Green apple and lime on the nose. Crisp 

acidity and a fine mousse on the racy palate 

with citrus notes folling on the aftertaste. 

Still very youthful. 

Price: € 13.00 

Weltevrede Estate +27 23 616 2141 

WESTERN CAPE - CAPE 

SOUTH COAST 

ELGIN 

EIKENDAL 92/100 


Green apple and asparagus on the fragrant 

nose. Crisp acidity with citrus, white peach 

and gooseberry. Tangy and lengthy on the 

finish. Drink through 2027. 

http://www.eikendal.com Price: € 12.00 

Eikendal Vineyards +27 21 855 1422 

ELGIN VINTNERS 91/100 

D CHARDONNAY 2022: Light straw. 

Smoky and toasty nose with hints of vanilla. 

Palate is rich and full with some citrus note 

and a slight hint of well-integrated oak 

following the nose. Layered and complex. 

Drink through 2028. 

https://www.elginvintners.co.za Price: € 15.00 

Elgin Vintners +27 21 848 9587 


D GRAND CUVEÉ BRUT 2015: Energetic 

mousse, yellow apple, cranberry and 

touch of bread/yeasty character. Attractive 

balance on mid-palate. Overall impression 

of freshness and crisp acidity. 


DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200 

SURVIVOR 89/100 

D TERROIR CHARDONNAY 2021 

http://www.overhex.com 



D TERROIR SAUVIGNON BLANC 2021 

http://www.overhex.com 


WESTERN CAPE - COASTAL 

REGION 

CAPE TOWN 

GROOT PHESANTEKRAAL 91/100 

D BERLIET 2021: Deep ruby red with 

attractive purple rim. Dark mulberries and 

pomegranate freshness, complimented by 

spicy oak. Well integrated tannins. Will 

benefit from further cellaring. 

http://www.grootphesantekraal,co.za Price: € 12.46 

Groot Phesantekraal +27 21 825 0060 

GROOT PHESANTEKRAAL 90/100 

D MARIZANNE 2022: Light straw 

yellow. Tropical flavours carries through 

to a creamy mid-palate with pear and 

pineapple. Offers good length. Will benefit 

from further cellaring. 

http://www.grootphesantekraal,co.za Price: € 11.93 

Groot Phesantekraal +27 21 825 0060 

CAPE TOWN - PHILADELPHIA 

CAPAIA ONE 91/100 

D RED BLEND 2019: Deep garnet. Tealeaf 

and dark berry on the rich nose. Grippy 

on the full palate with dark fruit and plum 

on the lengthy finish. Made to age. Drink 

through 2029. 

Price: € 8.00 

Capaia Wine Estate +27 21 972 1081 

CAPAIA 88/100 

D CAPAIA SHIRAZ 2019 

Price: € 8.59 

Capaia Wine Estate +27 21 972 1081 

COASTAL REGION 


D THE NICOLAS 2019: Dark plum. 

Cassis, dark mulberries of plush ripeness 

integrate to a harmony with oak spice. Well 

integrated tannins, oak and acid. A serious 

wine with a great future. Drink in next 

10yrs. 


DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200 

BELLINGHAM 92/100 

D THE BERNARD SERIES BUSH VINE 

PINOTAGE 2018: Deep garnet. Smoky and 

toasty nose with some dark berry fruit. 

Palate is medium-to-full with ripe black 

fruit and leathery spice on the finish. A 

deep and dark wine with many layers. 

Drink through 2028. Made to age. 

http://www.dgb.co.za 

DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200 

MAN FAMILY WINES 92/100 

D SKAAPVELD SYRAH 2021: Dark garnet. 

Spice and leather on the dark berry nose. 

Prunes and plum on the full palate with a 

well integrated and grainy tannin on the 

aftertaste. Layered and complex. Drink 

through 2028. 

http://www.manwines.com Price: € 4.50 

Man Vintners (Pty) Ltd +27 21 861-7759 

OLD ROAD WINE CO. 92/100 

D ANEMOS CHENIN BLANC 2020: Yellow/ 

green colour. Fresh and dried stone fruit on 

the nose. Elegant and rich with layers of 

vanilla and stone fruit on the tangy finish. 

Drink through 2027. A fine wine. 


DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200 

BACKSBERG 91/100 

D FOUR PILLARS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 

2019: Ruby brick. Tea-leaf and spice on the 

developed nose. Full and rich on the palate 

with a grainy tannin and a leathery spice on 

the layered aftertaste. Drink through 2027. 


DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200 


D SMUGGLED VINES CHARDONNAY 2021: 

Yellow straw. Smoky and toasty nose with 

hints of vanilla. Citrus and dried orange 

peel on the tangy palate with a distinct 

lemon-lime note on the lengthy aftertaste. 



DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200 

MAN FAMILY WINES 90/100 

D KALANT CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2021: 

Very dark ruby. Raisins and dried fruit on 

the nose. Palate is full and grippy with a 

rhubarb tartness and a sour cherry note on 

the finish. Very ripe and extracted. Drink 

through 2025. 

http://www.manwines.com Price: € 4.50 

Man Vintners (Pty) Ltd +27 21 861-7759 


D THE NICOLAS 2020 


DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200 


SOUTH AFRICA - PAARL 


FRYER’S COVE 89/100 



DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200 

THE MOORING 89/100 

D SYRAH GRENACHE 2021 




D BLUEBERRY ROW PINOTAGE 2020 


DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200 

DAVID FINLAYSON 88/100 

D THE PEPPER POT 2020 

http://www,edgebaston.co.za Price: € 6.00 

Edgebaston Vineyards +27 21 889 9572 

FRYER’S COVE 88/100 

D CHENIN BLANC 2022 


DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200 


D 1685 SHIRAZ 2019 


DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200 

DARLING 

GROOTE POST 89/100 

D SEASALTER 2022 

http://www.grootepost.com Price: € 8.88 

Groote Post +27 22 492 2825 

FRANSCHHOEK VALLEY 

MONT ROCHELLE 91/100 

D MIKO CHARDONNAY 2017: Yellow 

straw. Rich nose with ripe peach and 

apricot. Crisp on the full palate with 

dried fruit and marmalade on the lengthy 

aftertaste. Layered and complex. Drink 

through 2024. 

http://www.montrochelle.virgin.com Price: € 15.47 

Mont Rochelle +27 21 876 2770 

MONT ROCHELLE 89/100 

D MIKO RED 2012 

http://www.montrochelle.virgin.com Price: € 23.29 

Mont Rochelle +27 21 876 2770 


D PEPPER WIND SYRAH 2018 


DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200 

PAARL 

AVONDALE 93/100 

ORG D ANIMA CHENIN BLANC 2019: 

Yellow straw. Subdued nose with dried 

fruit and stewed fruit notes. Palate is rich 

and elegant with layers of stone fruit and 

quince. Crisp, but well-integrated acidity 

on the full finish. Drink through 2027. 

Price: € 16.00 

Avondale +27 21 863 1976 


D JOHN MARTIN 2017: Deep garnet. 

Tomato-leaf and cigar on the nose. Palate 

is dry and full with a dark berry note that 

follows from the nose. Grainy and wellintegrated 

tannins on the smooth finish. 



DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 8704200 


D JOHN MARTIN 2017: Deep garnet. 

Tomato-leaf and cigar on the nose. Palate 

is dry and full with a dark berry note that 

follows from the nose. Grainy and wellintegrated 

tannins on the smooth finish. 



DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200 

AVONDALE 91/100 

ORG D JONTY’S DUCKS PEKIN WHITE 

2020: Yellow straw. Rich nose with hints 

of dried fruit and quince. Elegant and rich 

with layers of vanilla and stone fruit on the 

tangy finish. Drink through 2028. A fine 

wine. 

Price: € 9.00 

Avondale +27 21 863 1976 


D PUMPHOUSE 2020: Deep ruby. Dark 

chocolate and spice on the rich nose. Full 

on the palate with a smoky and dark berry 

note on the ripe finish. Grainy tannins on 

the lengthy aftertaste. Drink through 2027. 


DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200 

SINCE GRAHAM BECK STARTED TO IMPLEMENT ORGANIC PRINCIPLES, THE BIOMASS COVER OF THE GRAHAM BECK PRIVATE NATURE RESERVE HAS 

RISEN BY 34%. 


125

SOUTH AFRICA - PAARL - SIMONSBERG 


LANDSKROON 90/100 

D PAUL DE VILLIERS SHIRAZ 2020: Deep 

garnet. Sweet dried fruit nose with some 

hints of leather and spice. Full and rich 

on the palate with a well-integrated and 

grainy tannin on the aftertaste. Dark 

chocolate and plum follows on the finish. 


https://www.landskroonwines.com/ Price: € 9.37 

Landskroon Wines +27 21 863 1039 


D PLUM VALLEY MERLOT 2019 


DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200 

PAARL - SIMONSBERG 

BABYLONSTOREN 95/100 

D NEBUKADNESAR 2020: Deep garnet 

with brick-red rim. Full and rich nose 

with dark berry and leathery notes. Cigar 

box and vanilla on the full palate with sour 

cherry and dark berry following from the 

nose. Layered and complex. Made to age. 

Excellent. Drink through 2030. 

http://www.babylonstoren.com 

Babylonstoren (Pty) Ltd +27 21 863 3852 

BABYLONSTOREN 93/100 

D CHARDONNAY 2021: Light yellow. 

Orange blossom and peach on the ripe 

nose. Full and creamy on the palate with 

some floral hints and peach and apricot on 

the layered and tangy aftertaste. A lovely 

wine that is made to age. Drink through 

2030. 

http://www.babylonstoren.com 

Babylonstoren (Pty) Ltd +27 21 863 3852 

SIMONSBERG-STELLENBOSCH 

KNORHOEK 91/100 

D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2019: Deep 

garnet. Subdued nose with hints of tomatoleaf 

and red cherry. Grippy on the palate 

with pencil shavings and cassis. Dark berry 

and red cherry on the full finish. Drink 

through 2028. 

http://www.knorhoek.co.za 

Knorhoek +27 21 865 2114 

STELLENBOSCH 

KEN FORRESTER 94/100 

D FMC 2021: Light yellow. Rich nose 

with dried fruit and stone fruit. Full on 

the palate with a sweet and sour note and 

tangy grenadilla on the crisp finish. This 

wine is made to age. Layered and complex. 

Made to age. 

http://www.kenforresterwines.com Price: € 30.00 

Ken Forrester Wines +27 21 85 52 374 

EIKENDAL 93/100 

D CLASSIQUE 2020: Dark garnet. Smoky 

nose with hints of leather and spice. Rich 

on the full palate with a grainy tannin and 

ripe plum on the grippy finish. Layered and 

complex. Made to age. Drink through 2030. 

http://www.eikendal.com Price: € 26.00 

Eikendal Vineyards +27 21 855 1422 


D PATRIARCH 2021: Light garnet. 

Herbaceous nose with red cherry and candy 

floss. Boiled sweets and strawberry on the 

medium palate and a smooth and wellintegrated 

tannin on the finish. Unusual, 

but very enjoyable. Drink through 2027. 


DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200 

BEESLAAR 92/100 

D PINOTAGE 2020: Deep ruby. Rich nose 

with dark berry fruit and hints of vanilla. 

Dark fruit follows on the full palate with 

grippy tannins and a prune and cranberry 

finish. Layered and complex. Drink 

through 2030. 

Price: € 36.50 

Beeslaar Wines +27 84 255 8686 

KOELENBOSCH 92/100 

D SHIRAZ 2020: Deep garnet. Black 

pepper and dark fruit on the nose. Good 

follow through on the palate with sweet 

coated tannins. Well integrated with 

excellent structure, offering superior 

quality. Enjoy now or for another 5-years. 

Price: € 5.50 

Koelenhof Winery +27 21 865 2020 

TOKARA 92/100 

D DIRECTORS RESERVE RED 2019: Ruby 

brick. Leather and spice on the nose with 

hints of red cherry. Vanilla and cigarbox 

follows on the rich palate with sour cherry 

and a grippy tannin on the full finish. Made 

to age. Drink through 2030. 

http://www.tokara.com Price: € 25.87 

Tokara +27 21 808 5913 


D MERLOT 2020: Ruby garnet. Subdued 

nose with hints of tea-leaf. Red berry fruit 

and capsicum on the grippy palate with a 

leathery note on the lengthy finish. Made 

to age. Drink through 2028. 

Price: € 5.55 



D DIRECTOR’S RESERVE PINOTAGE 

2020: Ruby colour with rich density. Sour 

cherries, with earthy notes and banana 

candy. Elegant style, will age well to allow 

for smoother tannins over time. Drink now 

or until 2028 

Price: € 15.89 


LANZERAC 91/100 

D COMMEMORATIVE PINOTAGE 2019: 

Ruby red. Ripe strawberries, banana, 

candy sweets, vanilla and spice on the nose. 

Secondary flavours of prunes and savoury 

notes. A complex wine and good example of 

the varietal. Drink in next 8-10yrs. 

http://www.lanzerac.co.za Price: € 114.16 

Lanzerac Wine Estate +27 21 887 1132 

MOOIPLAAS 91/100 

D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020: Deep 

ruby. Mint and eucalyptus nose. Tomatoleaf 

and capsicum on the full and grippy 

palate with some sour cherry notes on the 

aftertaste. Drink through 2030. 

Price: € 8.00 

Mooiplaas Wine Estate +27 21 200 7493 

TOKARA 91/100 

D RESERVE COLLECTION CHARDONNAY 

2021: Light yellow. Buttery and full on the 

rich nose with hints of citrus. Toast and 

marmelade on the complex palate. Layered 

and full on the aftertaste with some vanilla 

and orange peel. Excellent. Drink through 

2028. 

http://www.tokara.com Price: € 14.70 

Tokara +27 21 808 5913 

KNORHOEK 90/100 

D CHENIN BLANC 2021: Light straw. 

Rich nose with dried fruit and apricot. 

Palate is full and creamy with dried apricot 

and white peach. Elegant and smooth on 


SOUTH AFRICA - WELLINGTON - BOVLEI 


the layered finish. A fine example. Drink 

through 2028. 

http://www.knorhoek.co.za 

Knorhoek +27 21 865 2114 

DAVID FINLAYSON 89/100 

D PINOT NOIR 2021 

http://www,edgebaston.co.za Price: € 9.00 

Edgebaston Vineyards +27 21 889 9572 

HIDDEN VALLEY 89/100 

D HIDDEN TREASURE 2022 

http://www.hiddenvalleywines.co.za Price: € 6.82 

Hidden Valley Wines +27 21 880 2646 

MOOIPLAAS 86/100 

D MERLOT CABERNET FRANC 2020 

Price: € 8.00 

Mooiplaas Wine Estate +27 21 200 7493 

AALDERING 85/100 

D ESTATE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2021 

http://www.aaldering.co.za Price: € 11.41 

Aaldering Vineyards +27 21 865 2495 

FLORENCE BY AALDERING 82/100 

D BARREL SELECTION NV 

http://www.aaldering.co.za Price: € 7.90 

Aaldering Vineyards +27 21 865 2495 

STELLENBOSCH - BOTTELARY 

HAZENDAL 88/100 

D 23.5 BLANC DE NOIR MCC 2019 

http://www.hazendal.co.za Price: € 14.05 

Hazendal +27 21 903 5034 

HAZENDAL 86/100 

D 23.5 BLANC DE BLANC MCC 2019: 

http://www.hazendal.co.za Price: € 14.05 

Hazendal +27 21 903 5034 

STELLENBOSCH - 

JONKERSHOEK VALLEY 

LANZERAC 93/100 

SWARTLAND 


D PINOTAGE 2020: Very dark garnet. 

Dark chocolate and toast on the dark fruit 

nose. Palate is full and rich with dark fruit 

and leather on the finish. A complex and 

layered wine that will age for many years. 





D 12 MILE SYRAH 2021: Attractive red 

plum with purple rim. Fresh red berries, 

spicy oak, violets and new leather. Medium 

bodied with balanced tannins on the 

palate. Can be enjoyed now, or potential to 

age well. 


DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200 

BLAKE FAMILY WINES 90/100 

D AMETHYST 2018: Deep garnet. 

Subdued nose with savoury notes of leather 

and spice. Full and rich on the palate with 

dark berry fruit and spice following from 

the nose. Grippy, but layered and elegant 

on the full finish. Drink through 2026. 

http://www.blakefamilywines.com Price: € 18.00 

Blake Family Wines +27 82 922 6162 

TULBAGH 

MONTPELLIER 91/100 

D CHARDONNAY 2022: Yellow straw. 

Ripe nose with citrus and quince. Stone 

fruit and floral notes on the rich palate. 

Crisp acidity and a rich mouthfeel on the 

lengthy aftertaste. Drink through 2027. 

http://www.montpellier.co.za/ Price: € 8.18 

Montpellier Wine Estate +27 23 230 0656 

MONTPELLIER 88/100 

D CHENIN BLANC 2022 

http://www.montpellier.co.za/ Price: € 5.82 

Montpellier Wine Estate +27 23 230 0656 

WELLINGTON - BOVLEI 

CANETSFONTEIN 87/100 

ORG D MERLOT 2020 

http://www,canetsfontein.com Price: € 12.44 

Canetsfontein Wine Estate +27 71 248 1222 

CANETSFONTEIN 87/100 

ORG D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2021 

http://www,canetsfontein.com Price: € 12.44 

Canetsfontein Wine Estate +27 71 248 1222 

D MRS ENGLISH CHARDONNAY 2021: 

Light straw with green rim. Orange, 

cumquad and lemon rind. Oak spice with 

full mouthfeel, depth and lengthy finish. 

Great potential to age. This is a show 

stopper. 

http://www.lanzerac.co.za Price: € 31.91 

Lanzerac Wine Estate +27 21 887 1132 

SPIER’S INNOVATIVE WASTEWATER TREATMENT PLANT INCLUDES A YING-YANG SHAPED POND WITH 

SEVERAL ‘FLOW FORMS’, FROM WHERE THE WATER FLOWS INTO AN IRRIGATION DAM. 


127

SPAIN - CIGALES D.O. 


SPAIN 

Castilla y León is experiencing a 

genuine revival. Discover an ancient 

wine region that can now rival all of 

Spain’s finest offerings. 

CASTILLA Y LEÓN 

CIGALES D.O. 

BODEGAS SANTA RUFINA 92/100 

D VINA RUFINA 2015: Mature garnet-red 

with bricking. Jammy black fruits with 

undergrowth and spice notes show on the 

nose. The palate is deliciously appetising, 

powerful and silky with more of the nose 

aromas. The finish lingers on and on with 

mushroom accents. Serve with grilled 

meats. 

http://www.bodegassantarufina.com Price: € 18.00 

Bodegas Santa Rufina +34 983 58 52 02 

LEON D.O. 

KYRA 90/100 

D 2018: Light yellow. Vanilla, menthollike 

nose supported by a white flower 

backbone with citrus and green fruit 

perfumes. Silky oak influence creates 

a mouth-coating palate with wellestablished 

fruit. Consistent freshness and 

salinity. A lush white wine for gourmet 

food lovers. 

http://www.gordonzello.com Price: € 12.10 

Gordonzello +34 987 75 80 30 

RIBERA DEL DUERO D.O. 

HACIANDA DEL PRIOR 94/100 

D RESERVA 2018: Opaque colour tinged 

with garnet. Spicy, vanilla, smoky nose 

backed by southern fruits, delicate spices 

and hot stone. Oak influence creates a 

tight-knit texture on the palate, which 

also shows quality fruit and sun-ripened 

flavours. Nice grippy tannins. Splendid. 

http://www.tintofiguero.com/ Price: € 30.00 

Vinedos y Bodegas Garcia Figuero +34 947 54 21 27 

NEXUS 94/100 

D GRAN RESERVA 2011: Superb deep 

garnet-red with bricking. Nose of ripe, 

stewed black fruits with touches of forest 

floor, tobacco and leather. Silky, powerful 

yet complex palate. Endless finish driven 

by appetising notes showing substantial 

freshness. 

https://www.bodegasnexus.com Price: € 59.90 

Nexus Bodegas +34 983 88 04 88 

VALDECURIEL 94/100 

D 2014: Concentrated colour with 

brown highlights. On the nose, oakiness 

suffused with smoke and ash is nicely 

established amidst the stewed fruits and 

fresh mushrooms. The structured palate 

incorporates a trace of chlorophyll into the 

remarkable fruit score. Nicely harnessed 

tannins. A monumental must-try. 

Price: € 40.00 

Muriel Wines +34 945 60 62 68 

ARZUAGA 93/100 

D CRIANZA 2019: Beautiful garnet-red 

with faint bricking. Nose of blackberry 

and blackcurrant with forest floor and 

vanilla notes. Solid, robust palate with 

finely oaked and spicy accents. Substantial 

freshness on the finish. Serve with grilled 

meats. 

http://www.arzuaganavarro.com Price: € 19.95 

Bodegas Arzuaga Navarro +34 983 68 11 46 

DOMINIO DE CAIR 93/100 

2014: Dark garnet with bricking. 

D 

Generous nose unfurling dark fruits, 

eucalyptus, liquorice, herbs and spices. The 

palate is nicely structured with a velvety 

texture, great nascent complexity and very 

nicely mellowed, quality oak. Marvellous. 

https://www.araex.com/es/ 

Spanish Fine Wines 

LA BARAJA 93/100 

D 2019: Concentrated colour tinged with 

ruby. Vanilla, menthol and liquorice on 

the nose with a jammy red and black fruit 

note. Profound palate that stays focused on 

elegance and delicacy. Soft oak and tannins 

with burgeoning fruit. Supple and very 

harmonious. 

http://www.vinavilano.com/ Price: € 30.00 

Bodegas Vilano, S. Coop. +34 947 53 00 29 

LEGARIS 93/100 

D RESERVA 2016: Dark colour tinged with 

purple-blue. Profound nose marrying oaky 

and mineral tones with a ripe fruity touch. 

The palate is very mouth-filling from the 

attack onwards, with velvety tannins and 

the same precise aromatics coupled with 

unmistakable length. 

http://www.grupocodorniu.com Price: € 28.00 

Raventos Codorniu +34 935 05 15 51 

BODEAGS ZIFAR 92/100 

D CABALLERO ZIFAR 2017: Beautiful 

brilliant garnet-red with faint bricking. 

Alluring nose of jammy dark fruits with 

touches of undergrowth and white pepper. 

Powerful, robust palate also developing 

empyreumatic accents. Complex and 

generous. 

Price: € 28.95 

Bodegas Zifar 34 983 87 31 47 

BODEGA BOHÓRQUEZ 92/100 

CONV D RESERVA 2014: Beautiful deep 

ruby. Ripe nose of stone fruits bordering 

on jammy with a tangy touch recalling 

rhubarb. The palate is dense and soft with 

mature, expressive aromatics accented by 

spice, leather and cacao. Remarkable. 

Price: € 11.50 

Bodegas Bohorquez +34 983 87 01 23 

CARRAROA 92/100 

ORG D 2018: Deep garnet-red with faint 

mature highlights. Engaging nose of ripe 

black fruits with touches of liquorice and 

pepper. Silky, powerful, clean attack on 

the palate flowing into perfectly integrated 

tannins. Serve with grilled meats. 

Price: € 7.00 

Bodega y Vinedos Milenico +34 695 38 28 48 

CONDADO DE ORIZA 92/100 

D GRAN RESERVA 2014: Beautiful deep, 

bright red showing amazing youthfulness. 

Mature nose accented by incense, liquorice 

and exotic wood. The palate is massive 

with elegant tannins. It is mouth-filling 

with sustained fruit. A consummate wine 

for game. 

http://www.felixsolisavantis.com Price: € 18.99 

Félix Solís Avantis S.A +34 926 32 24 00 

PAGO SENDA MISA 92/100 

D 2018: Dark red with young highlights. 

Mature nose of super ripe fruits coupled 

with a cured meat tone. The palate offers 


SPAIN - RIBERA DEL DUERO D.O. 


A MURAL BY VALLADOLID ARTIST JULIO SENDINO DECORATES THE BODEGA’S UNDERGROUND WINERY (VALDEMONJAS). 

the perfect combination of structure, 

power and freshness with very elegant 

flavours. Oaky finish accented by graphite. 

Price: € 20.00 

MONTEBACO, S.L. +34 983 48 51 28 

ARDAL TRADICION 91/100 

D 2021: Dark, vivid red, full of 

youthfulness. The nose shows balance 

between fruit and wood, with an exotic 

touch of liquorice and coconut. The palate 

is dense yet harmonious with a tannin 

stamp that is dialled up through to the 

finish. A very delicate wine. 

http://www.balbas.es/ 

Bodegas Balbas +34 947 54 21 11 

BODEGAS VIYUELA 91/100 

D SELECCION 2018: Garnet-red. 

Menthol-like, vanilla nose with compelling 

red and black fruit notes and a floral 

sensation. Freshness, suppleness and 

alluring oakiness on the palate. The fruit 

is just a little reticent still. A feeling of 

ripeness offers the guarantee of longevity. 

Price: € 6.40 

Bodegas Viyuela +34 947 53 00 72 

PATA NEGRA 91/100 

D RESERVA TEMPRANILLO 2014: Garnet 

with orangey highlights. Exotic wood, 

liquorice, vanilla, smoke and ash on the 

nose mesh with jammy fruit. The palate 

shows youthful verve with sleek flavours, 

a precise, appetising mouthfeel and 

deliciously soft oak. Very expressive. 

http://www.garciacarrion.es 

García Carrion +34 914 35 55 56 

PETIT VEGA 91/100 

D 18 MESES EN BARRICA 2019: Intense 

ruby with crimson reflections. The nose 

is low-key with a blend of black fruits, 

citrus zest, fine spices and subtle oak. The 

palate starts smooth then fills the mouth 

with great elegance and touches of mocha 

and salinity with silky tannins in the 

background. Very promising. 

Price: € 5.85 

Premium Fincas 

TEOFILO REYES 91/100 

D RESERVA 2017: Beautiful dark colour 

tinged with dark purple. Intense nose 

showing stately oak and chocolatey accents. 

This is a very complete wine where flavours 

mesh with a remarkable tannin backbone. 

Keep for a little while longer. 

http://www.zuazogaston.com Price: € 20.00 

Zuazo Gastón Bodegas y Viñedos S.L. +34 945 60 15 26 

ALTOS DE ARANDA 90/100 

D ROBLE 2020: Fairly deep red with 

ruby tints. Vanilla oak and delicate smoke 

supported by jammy fruits of the forest 

on the nose. Well-balanced, rectilinear 

palate where freshness imparts tension. 

Shimmering mouthfeel, soft oak, wellestablished 

fruit and velvety tannins in this 

complete wine. 

Price: € 3.35 

Long Wines, S.L. +34 916 22 13 05 

CASTILLO DE URTAU 90/100 

D 2018: Deep garnet with some bricking. 

Racy nose combining stone fruits, spices, 

menthol and quality oak. Robust palate 

energised by beautiful freshness. Still firm 

but already the exotic aromatics coat the 

tastebuds. Keep. 

http://www.masetplana.com Price: € 15.25 

Maset +34 606 97 65 19 

MONTE AIXA 89/100 

D 2019 


129

SPAIN - RUEDA D.O. 


THE PEBBLE-STREWN SOILS ARE ONE OF THE CHARACTERISTICS OF THE CIGALES DO. BUSH-TRAINED VINES ARE ANOTHER (SANTA RUFINA). 

http://www.foobespain.com Price: € 5.60 

Foobespain International +34 926 51 31 67 

RUEDA D.O. 

DOMINIO DE LA GRANADILLA 90/100 

CONV D SAUVIGNONC BLANC 2021: Pale 

yellow with light green tints. Citrus fruits 

(tangerine) and white fruits (pear, peach) 

on the nose with menthol touches. The 

palate is rounded and crisp with cut hay 

notes and saline freshness on the finish. 

Drink with fish or poultry in a sauce. 

Price: € 9.95 

Vinedos La Granadilla +33 6 85 92 66 98 

CASERIO DE DUENAS 87/100 

D 2020 

http://www.bodegaspalacio.es Price: € 8.50 

Bodegas Palacio +34 915 00 60 00 

TORO D.O. 

APONTE + 94/100 

D 2008: Superb garnet with bricking. 

Nose of stewed black fruits with vanilla and 

forest floor notes. Appetising, silky attack 

revealing elegant oaky touches. Long fresh, 

mineral finish. Serve with caramelised 

lamb shanks. 

Price: € 95.00 

Bodegas Frontaura +34 690 14 52 85 

8 ROSAS NEGRAS 92/100 

CR D 2020: Intense crimson with 

youthful highlights. Endearing nose 

combining stone fruits, redcurrant, spices, 

smoke and herbs. Velvety attack followed 

by a palate that is virile yet very elegant 

and displays superb nascent complexity 

and silky tannins. Bravo. 

http://www.spanishpalate.es Price: € 8.50 

Spanish Palate +34 637 49 60 99 

VINA ABBA 91/100 

D 2017: Bright ruby, starting to mature. 

Endearing nose combining dark fruits, fine 

spices and liquorice backed by oak. Velvety, 

virile, rich palate displaying great nascent 

depth. Still firm with oak influence but 

everything is in place. Lovely. 

http://www.bodegascasas.com Price: € 6.00 

Bodega Francisco Casas 34 980 698 032 

BODEGA CAMPO DE TORO 90/100 

D VÁLGAME DIOS 2019: Dark red with 

garnet-brown reflections. Nose of stewed 

dark fruit with a liquoricy, spicy touch, 

wild plants and condiments. The palate is 

warm and plump yet not heavy with a sweet 

tannin edge. Stronger garrigue tone on the 

finish. 

Price: € 12.50 

Bodega Campo de Toro S.L. 34 633 151 954 

CARAY 90/100 

D BLACK LABEL 2014: Superb dark 

garnet-red with mature highlights. Nose 

of stewed black fruits with touches of 

bitumen and liquorice. Powerful attack on 

the palate, mirroring the nose. Very fresh 

tannins drive the mid-palate through to 

the finish. Drink with spicy foods. 

http://www.elsoleado.com 

Bodegas y Viñedos El Soleado +34 911 99 41 08 

MIO DE M.O. 90/100 

D VENDIMIA SELECCIONADA 2018: Deep 

garnet-red with faint bricking. Seductive 

nose of jammy dark fruits with liquorice 

and pepper notes. Powerful, structured 

palate revealing well-integrated tannins. A 

wine with a taste of the sunshine pairing 

with grilled rib steak. 

Price: € 12.00 

Rui Roboredo Madeira 351 254 488 070 

MÍO DE M.O. 89/100 

D RESERVA 2017 

http://www.3vwines.es Price: € 9.00 

Gardoqui Export - 3 V Wines +34 983 21 96 56 

VT CASTILLA Y LÉON 

MILENIUM 89/100 

D 2021 

http://www.bodegasgallegas.com/ Price: € 2.30 

Vinos y Bodegas Gallegas +34 988 38 42 00 

VIZAR 89/100 

ORG D BARRICA 8 MESES 2018 

Price: € 6.35 

Penalba la Verde +34 983 68 26 90 


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