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BE PREPARED TO FALL IN LOVE WITH CRUS BOURGEOIS WINES BY ALAIN ECHALIER PHOTOGRAPHS: ©CLAUDE CLIN-0604, © CLAUDE PETIT Are you really familiar with Bordeaux wines sporting the intriguing ‘Cru Bourgeois’ moniker on their labels? In an era of constant one-upmanship and an ocean of endorsements and superlatives, is this just one more marketing gimmick to catch the consumer’s eye, or is it genuinely meaningful? We went through the required specifications with a fine-tooth comb and quizzed the chairman of the Alliance along with various member chateaux. And here is our verdict! CHÂTEAU DE VILLAMBIS 10 AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
BORDEAUX FOCUS THE VINEYARDS IN FRONT OF CHÂTEAU DE VILLAMBIS Many Bordeaux vineyards were developed by ‘investors’ who often lived in the city. The ‘Crus Bourgeois’ designation – meaning wines belonging to town residents – is therefore a natural extension and a very ancient one at that. You might therefore think it was already synonymous with good taste and modernity even though, in French as in English, it can now also have a different connotation. Within the world of wine, classifications have been around for centuries. In Bordeaux, one noteworthy example is the classification presented to the future US President Thomas Jefferson in 1787. More importantly, in 1855 Napoleon III asked French wine regions to classify their wines ahead of the ‘Exposition Universelle’. Bordeaux wine brokers responded with a list of just 61 Médoc red wines, a mere drop in the ocean compared to the region’s countless vineyards. So in 1858, 248 other noteworthy ‘Crus Bourgeois’ were also listed. When the 61 chosen few from 1855 decided to drop the statement in favour of the highly gratifying ‘Grand Cru Classé’ status, the term continued to be used by the other category of wines. Despite this, it is widely believed that it was not until 1932 that a serious classification of the wines was undertaken by Bordeaux wine brokers, followed by the creation of a Crus Bourgeois producers’ organisation in 1962. In 2003, a ministerial decree finally enshrined 247 chateaux from the 490 properties in the running, but the classification was rescinded in 2007. A new classification for the 2008 vintage featured 243 chateaux and since 2012, the selection process has been placed under the authority of INAO. The classification is now reviewed every 5 years and only features red wines from the Médoc. The latest iteration is for 2020 and classifies properties for the 2018, 2019, 2020 and also 2021 and 2022 vintages. AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 11
Page 1 and 2: Angel García, the founder of bodeg
Page 3 and 4: CONTENTS COLUMNS / REPORTS 26 7 New
Page 5 and 6: EDITORIAL PHILIPPE GAILLARD - EDITO
Page 7 and 8: NEWS CHÂTEAU-FIGEAC, FINALLY AT TH
Page 9: FOUR WINEMAKERS FOR AUTUMN 2022 CH
Page 13 and 14: BORDEAUX FOCUS THE ISSUES AT STAKE
Page 15 and 16: BORDEAUX FOCUS and there must be a
Page 17 and 18: BORDEAUX FOCUS 12 hectares under vi
Page 19 and 20: BORDEAUX FOCUS UNI-MÉDOC: A CO-OPE
Page 21 and 22: BORDEAUX FOCUS all of which is regu
Page 23 and 24: BORDEAUX FOCUS Crus Bourgeois will
Page 25 and 26: 4 covers: France, Italy, Spain, Sou
Page 27 and 28: RHÔNE VALLEY IDENTITY DOMAINE MOUR
Page 29 and 30: CAVE DE PAZAC, BETWEEN THE RHONE AN
Page 31 and 32: OLIVIER ROUQUET, THE MANAGER OF CH
Page 33 and 34: PATRICIA AND JOËL JACQUET CRAFT AU
Page 35 and 36: RHÔNE VALLEY IDENTITY clay-limesto
Page 37 and 38: MUSCADET, FROM EVOLUTION TO REVOLUT
Page 39 and 40: TIME FOR CHRISTIAN DUMORTIER TO TAS
Page 41 and 42: MUSCADET VINEYARDS Coing in Saint-F
Page 43 and 44: MUSCADET VINEYARDS DOMAINE DU HAUT
Page 45 and 46: DOMAINE CLAUDE MICHEL PICHON real t
Page 47 and 48: ITALY APPELLATION T he historic Ita
Page 49 and 50: FRANCO ZILIANI’S THREE CHILDREN,
Page 51 and 52: STEFANO CAPELLI, THE WINEMAKER AT C
Page 53 and 54: ITALY APPELLATION Pinot Noir Franci
Page 55 and 56: DR. JOSKA BIONDELLI, THE OWNER AND
Page 57 and 58: GERMANY CLIMATE HARVESTING CHARDONN
Page 59 and 60: GERMANY CLIMATE By contrast, grape
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GERMANY CLIMATE GERMAN WINES PUT TH
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GERMANY CLIMATE Sankt Laurent (an o
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GERMANY CLIMATE GLEISZELLEN IN PALA
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SPAIN VINEYARDS LA GRANADILLA’S V
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EDUARDO CASAS, THE FOURTH GENERATIO
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THE TEAM AT VALDEMONJAS - THE MOYAN
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SPAIN VINEYARDS ANGEL GARCÍA, THE
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SOUTH AFRICA NEW GENERATION KLEIN C
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SOUTH AFRICA NEW GENERATION These e
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SOUTH AFRICA NEW GENERATION Extract
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VONDELING WINES VINEYARDS WITH THE
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SOUTH AFRICA NEW GENERATION busines
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BORDEAUX APPELLATION As a reminder,
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CLÉMENT PARADISI, THE WINEMAKER AT
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BORDEAUX APPELLATION Château Hyot
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ANNE-SOPHIE LARVOR, HEAD OF MARKETI
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FROM HVE TO ORGANIC, BURGUNDY MAKES
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LÉGENDES WILLIAM WATERKEYN, THE WI
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BURGUNDY ENDORSEMENTS DOMAINE BERGE
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LAURENT VOCORET BORDEAUX TRAVEL VIN
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BURGUNDY ENDORSEMENTS DOMAINE CAMIL
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VERMOUTH MAKES A MAJOR COMEBACK IN
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SPAIN TRENDING A MODERN TWIST MARIO
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PERUCCHI WAS THE FIRST VERMOUTH CRE
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BODEGAS NODUS PRODUCES ITS VERMOUTH
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SPAIN TRENDING MARTÍNEZ LACUESTA,
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LÉGENDES FERNANDO GIMÉNEZ ALVEAR,
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STARS & WINE CAMERON DIAZ WITH KATH
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PAGES 119 TO 130 TOP WINES OUR AUTU
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FRANCE - MOULIS OUR AUTUMN SELECTIO
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SOUTH AFRICA - CENTRAL ORANGE RIVER
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SOUTH AFRICA - ELGIN OUR AUTUMN SEL
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SOUTH AFRICA - PAARL - SIMONSBERG O
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SPAIN - CIGALES D.O. OUR AUTUMN SEL
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SPAIN - RUEDA D.O. OUR AUTUMN SELEC
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13-15 FEB. 2023 PARIS EXPO PORTE DE
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