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BORDEAUX<br />
APPELLATION<br />
label – this is still a reassuring cue for consumers.<br />
After bottling, the wines are either stored in the<br />
temperature-controlled cellars belonging to Maison<br />
Seignouret, or shipped straight to export markets,<br />
including Laos, Vietnam and the United States. This<br />
range of wines, with a retail price tag ranging from<br />
10 to 12 euros, is more suited to quick depletions.<br />
They are very fruity, 95% Merlot offerings that do<br />
have some ageability – Paradisi recently drunk a<br />
2016 that was still very flavourful.<br />
He agrees that Castillon’s reputation is not as<br />
well-established as that of its neighbour Saint-Emilion,<br />
but in its defence points to its lovely hillside<br />
vineyard sites. He enjoys drinking the wines with<br />
fairly hearty dishes, like grilled steak.<br />
Maison Seignouret also produces brands which<br />
draw on the negociant’s expertise in sourcing and<br />
blending wines that can come from several different<br />
producers, and can even change down the years.<br />
The different categories require different marketing<br />
techniques.<br />
VIGNOBLES ALAIN AUBERT:<br />
TERROIR EXPERTISE<br />
THE WINE INVENTORIES<br />
AT MAISON SEIGNOURET<br />
ALAIN AUBERT OF<br />
CHÂTEAU GERMAN<br />
Our next respondent is 79 VA1 and boasts extensive<br />
experience. In his family, wine has been made for a<br />
very long time. He personally started age 14 with his<br />
grandfather, and now owns several chateaux, including<br />
two in the Castillon appellation area.<br />
Château German extends over 35 hectares. The vines<br />
were replanted after the harsh winter of 1956, with<br />
70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet-Sauvignon and 10%<br />
Cabernet franc. “The vineyard blocks start just two<br />
metres away from the Saint-Emilion appellation<br />
area. The boundaries are political, religious even”,<br />
says Alain Aubert. “In the West is Catholic country,<br />
where place names favour the saints (Saint-Emilion,<br />
Lussac-St-Emilion, St-Georges-Saint-Emilion…);<br />
and in the East, is Protestant territory. Another<br />
differentiating factor is the shape of the dovecots,<br />
which are square in the West, and round in the East.<br />
It’s little surprise that Castillon was not incorporated<br />
into the Saint-Emilion satellite appellations!<br />
But in this area, it is difficult to tell the wines apart”.<br />
88 AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE