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BORDEAUX<br />

APPELLATION<br />

label – this is still a reassuring cue for consumers.<br />

After bottling, the wines are either stored in the<br />

temperature-controlled cellars belonging to Maison<br />

Seignouret, or shipped straight to export markets,<br />

including Laos, Vietnam and the United States. This<br />

range of wines, with a retail price tag ranging from<br />

10 to 12 euros, is more suited to quick depletions.<br />

They are very fruity, 95% Merlot offerings that do<br />

have some ageability – Paradisi recently drunk a<br />

2016 that was still very flavourful.<br />

He agrees that Castillon’s reputation is not as<br />

well-established as that of its neighbour Saint-Emilion,<br />

but in its defence points to its lovely hillside<br />

vineyard sites. He enjoys drinking the wines with<br />

fairly hearty dishes, like grilled steak.<br />

Maison Seignouret also produces brands which<br />

draw on the negociant’s expertise in sourcing and<br />

blending wines that can come from several different<br />

producers, and can even change down the years.<br />

The different categories require different marketing<br />

techniques.<br />

VIGNOBLES ALAIN AUBERT:<br />

TERROIR EXPERTISE<br />

THE WINE INVENTORIES<br />

AT MAISON SEIGNOURET<br />

ALAIN AUBERT OF<br />

CHÂTEAU GERMAN<br />

Our next respondent is 79 VA1 and boasts extensive<br />

experience. In his family, wine has been made for a<br />

very long time. He personally started age 14 with his<br />

grandfather, and now owns several chateaux, including<br />

two in the Castillon appellation area.<br />

Château German extends over 35 hectares. The vines<br />

were replanted after the harsh winter of 1956, with<br />

70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet-Sauvignon and 10%<br />

Cabernet franc. “The vineyard blocks start just two<br />

metres away from the Saint-Emilion appellation<br />

area. The boundaries are political, religious even”,<br />

says Alain Aubert. “In the West is Catholic country,<br />

where place names favour the saints (Saint-Emilion,<br />

Lussac-St-Emilion, St-Georges-Saint-Emilion…);<br />

and in the East, is Protestant territory. Another<br />

differentiating factor is the shape of the dovecots,<br />

which are square in the West, and round in the East.<br />

It’s little surprise that Castillon was not incorporated<br />

into the Saint-Emilion satellite appellations!<br />

But in this area, it is difficult to tell the wines apart”.<br />

88 AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE

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