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CASTILLA Y LEÓN OLD VINES, TERROIR AND HERITAGE BY ISABELLE ESCANDE PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF THE ESTATES The Castilla y Leon region, in North-West Spain, is replete with famous appellations such as Ribera del Duero, Toro, Cigales and Rueda – lining the banks of the river Duero and producing some of the country’s finest wines. THE VALDEMONJAS BODEGA IS LOCATED IN THE HEART OF THE MILLA DE ORO, OR THE GOLDEN MILE, THE MOST PRESTIGIOUS PART OF RIBERA DEL DUERO 66 AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
SPAIN VINEYARDS LA GRANADILLA’S VINEYARDS ARE SPREAD OVER TWO VILLAGES IN VALLADOLID – NAVA DEL REY AND VILLAVERDE DE MEDINA Despite its long-standing tradition of growing wine, the Castilla y Leon region made its debut in the international wine market relatively late on. The low yields from its vineyards due to the area’s weather patterns along with direct competition from neighbouring regions prevented it from developing a powerful wine industry. But the drivers that guaranteed success in an era of industrial wines have become obsolete. Nowadays, low-cropping vines are synonymous with quality and small family-run bodegas that have benefited from new consumer standards are favoured over large groups. The bodegas have been modernised and equipped with cutting-edge technology, though they have not drawn a line under tradition, far from it. Many of them continue to choose bush vine training and harvesting by hand, or have worked to preserve native grape varieties. Although Tempranillo and its various avatars (Tinta del Pais, Tinto de Toro etc) still occupy a prime position in Castilla y Leon’s varietal range, they are not the only ones to have established their pedigree. Illustrations of this are provided by Mencia in the Bierzo appellation and Verdejo, the star of Rueda, which produces wines displaying crisp acidity and delicate aromas. The region’s wine proposition is multi-faceted, spanning a wide range of styles. They often encapsulate their maker’s signature style and the stamp of the terroir where they were born, making them easy to identify in comparison to other wines. We have selected five bodegas so that you can be the judge of this by tasting their amazing wines. AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 67
Page 1 and 2:
Angel García, the founder of bodeg
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CONTENTS COLUMNS / REPORTS 26 7 New
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EDITORIAL PHILIPPE GAILLARD - EDITO
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NEWS CHÂTEAU-FIGEAC, FINALLY AT TH
Page 9 and 10:
FOUR WINEMAKERS FOR AUTUMN 2022 CH
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BORDEAUX FOCUS THE VINEYARDS IN FRO
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BORDEAUX FOCUS THE ISSUES AT STAKE
Page 15 and 16: BORDEAUX FOCUS and there must be a
Page 17 and 18: BORDEAUX FOCUS 12 hectares under vi
Page 19 and 20: BORDEAUX FOCUS UNI-MÉDOC: A CO-OPE
Page 21 and 22: BORDEAUX FOCUS all of which is regu
Page 23 and 24: BORDEAUX FOCUS Crus Bourgeois will
Page 25 and 26: 4 covers: France, Italy, Spain, Sou
Page 27 and 28: RHÔNE VALLEY IDENTITY DOMAINE MOUR
Page 29 and 30: CAVE DE PAZAC, BETWEEN THE RHONE AN
Page 31 and 32: OLIVIER ROUQUET, THE MANAGER OF CH
Page 33 and 34: PATRICIA AND JOËL JACQUET CRAFT AU
Page 35 and 36: RHÔNE VALLEY IDENTITY clay-limesto
Page 37 and 38: MUSCADET, FROM EVOLUTION TO REVOLUT
Page 39 and 40: TIME FOR CHRISTIAN DUMORTIER TO TAS
Page 41 and 42: MUSCADET VINEYARDS Coing in Saint-F
Page 43 and 44: MUSCADET VINEYARDS DOMAINE DU HAUT
Page 45 and 46: DOMAINE CLAUDE MICHEL PICHON real t
Page 47 and 48: ITALY APPELLATION T he historic Ita
Page 49 and 50: FRANCO ZILIANI’S THREE CHILDREN,
Page 51 and 52: STEFANO CAPELLI, THE WINEMAKER AT C
Page 53 and 54: ITALY APPELLATION Pinot Noir Franci
Page 55 and 56: DR. JOSKA BIONDELLI, THE OWNER AND
Page 57 and 58: GERMANY CLIMATE HARVESTING CHARDONN
Page 59 and 60: GERMANY CLIMATE By contrast, grape
Page 61 and 62: GERMANY CLIMATE GERMAN WINES PUT TH
Page 63 and 64: GERMANY CLIMATE Sankt Laurent (an o
Page 65: GERMANY CLIMATE GLEISZELLEN IN PALA
Page 69 and 70: EDUARDO CASAS, THE FOURTH GENERATIO
Page 71 and 72: THE TEAM AT VALDEMONJAS - THE MOYAN
Page 73 and 74: SPAIN VINEYARDS ANGEL GARCÍA, THE
Page 75 and 76: SOUTH AFRICA NEW GENERATION KLEIN C
Page 77 and 78: SOUTH AFRICA NEW GENERATION These e
Page 79 and 80: SOUTH AFRICA NEW GENERATION Extract
Page 81 and 82: VONDELING WINES VINEYARDS WITH THE
Page 83 and 84: SOUTH AFRICA NEW GENERATION busines
Page 85 and 86: BORDEAUX APPELLATION As a reminder,
Page 87 and 88: CLÉMENT PARADISI, THE WINEMAKER AT
Page 89 and 90: BORDEAUX APPELLATION Château Hyot
Page 91 and 92: ANNE-SOPHIE LARVOR, HEAD OF MARKETI
Page 94 and 95: FROM HVE TO ORGANIC, BURGUNDY MAKES
Page 96 and 97: LÉGENDES WILLIAM WATERKEYN, THE WI
Page 98 and 99: BURGUNDY ENDORSEMENTS DOMAINE BERGE
Page 100 and 101: LAURENT VOCORET BORDEAUX TRAVEL VIN
Page 102 and 103: BURGUNDY ENDORSEMENTS DOMAINE CAMIL
Page 104 and 105: VERMOUTH MAKES A MAJOR COMEBACK IN
Page 106 and 107: SPAIN TRENDING A MODERN TWIST MARIO
Page 108 and 109: PERUCCHI WAS THE FIRST VERMOUTH CRE
Page 110 and 111: BODEGAS NODUS PRODUCES ITS VERMOUTH
Page 112 and 113: SPAIN TRENDING MARTÍNEZ LACUESTA,
Page 114 and 115: LÉGENDES FERNANDO GIMÉNEZ ALVEAR,
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STARS & WINE CAMERON DIAZ WITH KATH
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PAGES 119 TO 130 TOP WINES OUR AUTU
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FRANCE - MOULIS OUR AUTUMN SELECTIO
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SOUTH AFRICA - CENTRAL ORANGE RIVER
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SOUTH AFRICA - ELGIN OUR AUTUMN SEL
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SOUTH AFRICA - PAARL - SIMONSBERG O
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SPAIN - CIGALES D.O. OUR AUTUMN SEL
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SPAIN - RUEDA D.O. OUR AUTUMN SELEC
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13-15 FEB. 2023 PARIS EXPO PORTE DE
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