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EDITORIAL SYLVAIN PATARD - EDITOR IN CHIEF CRUS BOURGEOIS REACH FOR THE SKY category of Bordeaux wine reserved for the Médoc, A Crus Bourgeois in some ways live in the shadow of the 1855-classified Grands Crus. In actual fact, though, their origins stem from the same source. Several centuries ago, in the market town of Bordeaux under English rule, merchants were allowed to sell wines produced from their vineyards levy-free both locally and in export markets. The privilege would enable them to make their fortune and they would go on to buy the finest vineyards in the Médoc as early as the 15th century. At the time, the term ‘Bourgeois’ referred only to its original meaning of ‘town dweller’ (‘bourg’ means town) and not to any kind of social class. After a chequered history, their crowning moment finally came in the 20th century with landmark dates such as 1935 – the first real classification – then 1962 with the inception of the Médoc Crus Bourgeois producers’ organisation and 1979, when the Crus Bourgeois statement was permitted on labels. The last decade has allowed them to fully get up to speed and they are now unanimously hailed by both the trade and consumers. The reason for this is that they offer both good price points and quality due to demanding specifications whose primary focus is on site-expressiveness. It is essential to remember that they account for over 30% of Médoc production with some 28 million bottles annually. From this perspective, at the very least, they are on a par with the Grands Crus Classés. Probably their only remaining challenge is to nurture their image as successfully as the great growths have done and become an essential component of the market, both in France and internationally. They have certainly gone a long way towards achieving that already. 6 AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
NEWS CHÂTEAU-FIGEAC, FINALLY AT THE TOP The 2022 Grands Crus de Saint-Emilion classification has finally promoted Château-Figeac to Premier Grand Cru Classé A status. The endorsement rewards relentless hard work and above all recognises the outstanding quality of its terroir and its unique place in Saint-Emilion due to its fairly unique varietal range. Owned by the same family since 1892 and ranked as a Premier Grand Cru Classé since 1955, Château- Figeac’s promotion is not so much a culmination as an invitation to continue the work that has already been achieved. The hardest part is just beginning. The higher up the rankings, the further there is to fall. The Manoncourt family, all the staff at the chateau and the editorial team at Gilbert & Gaillard spare a special CHÂTEAU-FIGEAC thought for Thierry Manoncourt whose dearest wish was to see Figeac “in its rightful place”. It was his lifetime achievement, into which he THIERRY MANONCOURT, WHO PASSED AWAY IN 2010, DEVOTED HIS LIFE TO CHÂTEAU-FIGEAC poured his spirit of innovation, distinctiveness, excellence and authenticity which still live on today. www.chateau-figeac.com © Twin Lefevre WILL THE 2022 VINTAGE REKINDLE MARKET INTEREST? The same three leading wine producers, in Europe and worldwide, should produce just over 130 million hectolitres according to initial estimates by European industry organisations. Despite extreme weather events throughout the season, the 2022 vintage witnessed a slight increase in crop yields in all three countries compared with 2021 (128.7 million hectolitres), but is likely to remain below the five-year average (132.9 mhl between 2017 and 2021). Ranking first worldwide since 2015, Italy holds onto its leadership position with a 2022 output of around 50 million hectolitres. France is a distant second, with an estimated 44 million hectolitres (on the back of a 16% rise), despite being impacted by lack of rainfall and high summer temperatures which brought volumes down. Spain is likely to rank third with 35 million hectolitres. Harvesting was early in all three countries and the crop mostly avoided mildew and other fungal diseases. The only positive aspect of the drought and high temperatures is that 2022 fruit is mostly healthy with promising levels of ripeness. It now remains to be seen whether the quality will be enough to elicit a positive response from the marketplace after the shortfall in 2021 put a damper on expectations. Source Vitisphere A GREAT QUALITY HARVEST AND MORE GENEROUS VOLUMES © Gilbert & Gaillard AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 7
Page 1 and 2: Angel García, the founder of bodeg
Page 3 and 4: CONTENTS COLUMNS / REPORTS 26 7 New
Page 5: EDITORIAL PHILIPPE GAILLARD - EDITO
Page 9 and 10: FOUR WINEMAKERS FOR AUTUMN 2022 CH
Page 11 and 12: BORDEAUX FOCUS THE VINEYARDS IN FRO
Page 13 and 14: BORDEAUX FOCUS THE ISSUES AT STAKE
Page 15 and 16: BORDEAUX FOCUS and there must be a
Page 17 and 18: BORDEAUX FOCUS 12 hectares under vi
Page 19 and 20: BORDEAUX FOCUS UNI-MÉDOC: A CO-OPE
Page 21 and 22: BORDEAUX FOCUS all of which is regu
Page 23 and 24: BORDEAUX FOCUS Crus Bourgeois will
Page 25 and 26: 4 covers: France, Italy, Spain, Sou
Page 27 and 28: RHÔNE VALLEY IDENTITY DOMAINE MOUR
Page 29 and 30: CAVE DE PAZAC, BETWEEN THE RHONE AN
Page 31 and 32: OLIVIER ROUQUET, THE MANAGER OF CH
Page 33 and 34: PATRICIA AND JOËL JACQUET CRAFT AU
Page 35 and 36: RHÔNE VALLEY IDENTITY clay-limesto
Page 37 and 38: MUSCADET, FROM EVOLUTION TO REVOLUT
Page 39 and 40: TIME FOR CHRISTIAN DUMORTIER TO TAS
Page 41 and 42: MUSCADET VINEYARDS Coing in Saint-F
Page 43 and 44: MUSCADET VINEYARDS DOMAINE DU HAUT
Page 45 and 46: DOMAINE CLAUDE MICHEL PICHON real t
Page 47 and 48: ITALY APPELLATION T he historic Ita
Page 49 and 50: FRANCO ZILIANI’S THREE CHILDREN,
Page 51 and 52: STEFANO CAPELLI, THE WINEMAKER AT C
Page 53 and 54: ITALY APPELLATION Pinot Noir Franci
Page 55 and 56: DR. JOSKA BIONDELLI, THE OWNER AND
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GERMANY CLIMATE HARVESTING CHARDONN
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GERMANY CLIMATE By contrast, grape
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GERMANY CLIMATE GERMAN WINES PUT TH
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GERMANY CLIMATE Sankt Laurent (an o
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GERMANY CLIMATE GLEISZELLEN IN PALA
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SPAIN VINEYARDS LA GRANADILLA’S V
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EDUARDO CASAS, THE FOURTH GENERATIO
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THE TEAM AT VALDEMONJAS - THE MOYAN
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SPAIN VINEYARDS ANGEL GARCÍA, THE
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SOUTH AFRICA NEW GENERATION KLEIN C
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SOUTH AFRICA NEW GENERATION These e
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SOUTH AFRICA NEW GENERATION Extract
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VONDELING WINES VINEYARDS WITH THE
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SOUTH AFRICA NEW GENERATION busines
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BORDEAUX APPELLATION As a reminder,
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CLÉMENT PARADISI, THE WINEMAKER AT
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BORDEAUX APPELLATION Château Hyot
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ANNE-SOPHIE LARVOR, HEAD OF MARKETI
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FROM HVE TO ORGANIC, BURGUNDY MAKES
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LÉGENDES WILLIAM WATERKEYN, THE WI
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BURGUNDY ENDORSEMENTS DOMAINE BERGE
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LAURENT VOCORET BORDEAUX TRAVEL VIN
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BURGUNDY ENDORSEMENTS DOMAINE CAMIL
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VERMOUTH MAKES A MAJOR COMEBACK IN
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SPAIN TRENDING A MODERN TWIST MARIO
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PERUCCHI WAS THE FIRST VERMOUTH CRE
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BODEGAS NODUS PRODUCES ITS VERMOUTH
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SPAIN TRENDING MARTÍNEZ LACUESTA,
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LÉGENDES FERNANDO GIMÉNEZ ALVEAR,
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STARS & WINE CAMERON DIAZ WITH KATH
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PAGES 119 TO 130 TOP WINES OUR AUTU
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FRANCE - MOULIS OUR AUTUMN SELECTIO
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SOUTH AFRICA - CENTRAL ORANGE RIVER
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SOUTH AFRICA - ELGIN OUR AUTUMN SEL
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SOUTH AFRICA - PAARL - SIMONSBERG O
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SPAIN - CIGALES D.O. OUR AUTUMN SEL
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SPAIN - RUEDA D.O. OUR AUTUMN SELEC
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13-15 FEB. 2023 PARIS EXPO PORTE DE
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