GG_N49_ESP

BORDEAUX
APPELLATION
Until the turn of the 20 th century, Castillon produced
both red and white wine, but whites have now
exited the appellation. Six grape varieties can be
used – Merlot is the undisputed king of the varietal
range, often blended with a little Cabernet Franc or
even Cabernet-Sauvignon or Cot (the local name
for Malbec). Occasionally, there is even a dash of
Petit Verdot or Carmenere, but their share cannot
be higher than 15%.
Although Castillon was previously a stand-alone
appellation, the wines have now technically been
subsumed into the Côtes de Bordeaux appellation,
as a complementary designation. In fact, production
specifications – maximum yield and minimum
level of ripeness for example – are slightly more
quality-focused than for plain Côtes de Bordeaux.
COPING WITH CLIMATE CHANGE
THE VINEYARDS AT CHÂTEAU BRÉHAT
As in most wine regions around the world, climate
disruptions in Castillon have both a short and longterm
impact. Over the long term, higher temperatures
promote greater ripeness in the grape flesh,
with more sugar content and lower acidity. This
is particularly tangible with Merlot, due to its
thin skin. Consequently, the wines display higher
alcohol content and can lose some of their freshness.
To cope with these changes, winegrowers have
responded in different ways. For some time now,
they have been choosing cooler soils for Merlot, and
have started increasing the share of other grape
varieties in blends. Also, they have been harvesting
earlier – in 2022, the harvest kicked off at the start
of September. Lastly, total acidity in the wines is
corrected, as with most wines from the South, by
adding some tartaric acid. The acid occurs naturally
in the grapes.
All of this produces concentrated wines displaying a
dark ruby hue, with notes of ripe red fruits, prunes,
leather and game. However, in anticipation of continued
global warming, a more drastic measure has
been decided – very little Merlot is now going into
the ground.
In the short term, heat waves, rain and sudden
hailstorms are having different types of effect.
86 AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE