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DOMAINE
CLAUDE MICHEL PICHON
real typicity, like those of Château de La Chevillardière, which grow on granite and
mica schist soils”, he says. “Muscadet needs to be better known and although we don’t
yet produce village-designated growths, there is no denying that the recognition is
genuinely meaningful for the public who is not necessarily familiar with our wines”.
DRILLING DOWN INTO TERROIR
The image of Muscadet has long been understated, which has had consequences in
terms of quality. The work carried out over the last few years, however, both in winery
management and product marketing and promotion has helped reverse the trend. Many
estates have been restructured, which has clearly dialled up the quality of the wines –
their excellent value for money is also undeniable. Muscadet has carved out a place for
itself as a genuine terroir-driven wine, showing unmistakable honesty. Though ideal as
an aperitif, it is also a great classic with seafood and pairing partner for white meats and
some cheeses. Ironically, the low price points of some producers have done it a disservice,
leading consumers to wrongly associate it with an entry-level wine. The village-designated
growths are helping to reverse this downward spiral and put an end to misconceptions,
so that Muscadet can be placed on a par with other fine white wines. “The advent
of the growths and enormous amount of work that has gone into recognising the local
terroir have bolstered the reputation of Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur Lie”, feels Véronique
Günther-Chéreau, owner of the namesake vineyards. “It is no longer considered
as a simple bar wine but one suitable for gourmet food. It has established its pedigree,
although in my opinion, there is still a lack of awareness of Muscadet in France, outside
its home region”. Muscadet is multi-faceted and promoting its variety can only be viewed
positively. Entry-level labels thrive alongside gourmet-food and age-worthy bottlings,
along with the more recent village-designated growths. These have brought a real breath
of fresh air to the wine proposition as trends favour dry, delicate, lower-alcohol, refreshing
white wines which have all the requisite qualities to appeal to new consumers.
AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
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