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JOCHEN NEHER AND SAYNUR SONKAYA-NEHER PRODUCE REMARKABLE RHEINGAU RIESLINGS BORDEAUX TRAVEL THE TEAM OF WEINGUT STUDIER IN THE CELLAR 62 SPRING 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
GERMANY CLIMATE Sankt Laurent (an old Palatine-Austrian grape variety) from the ‘Fingerprint’ series, whose current vintage is actually 2012. A traditional speciality in the Southern Palatinate is also the Muskateller (aka Muscat blanc à petits grains), Alsace after all, lurks just around the corner. JOCHEN NEHER OF WEINGUT MOHR IN ONE OF HIS STEEP RHEINGAU VINEYARDS Mohr/Rheingau To the west of Frankfurt lies the Rheingau, perhaps Germany’s most important wine region historically – although in terms of acreage it only ranks 8th. Here, Riesling is the uncrowned king with 78% of area under vine, followed by the famous Spätburgunder – aka Pinot noir – from Assmannshausen. These two grape varieties make up the majority of the Mohr winery’s ten hectares. Located in the far west beyond the Rhine bend, Jochen Neher and his wife Saynur have been farming their certified vineyards organically for almost a decade. On slopes like the Assmannshäuser Höllenberg in particular, with a gradient of up to 70%, this approach implies a lot of manual work. The yields are low and the vines up to 80 years old – the Mohr winery is an uncompromising quality grower. In the municipal areas of Lorch and Assmannshausen vines grow on various slate formations interspersed with quartzite veins. Not a single square metre is flat here. The Nehers produce a Großes Gewächs Riesling from each of the Lorch vineyards Krone, Schlossberg and Bodental-Steinberg. While the Höllenberg is traditionally reserved for Pinot Noir, there is also an orange wine made from Pinot Blanc in addition to a high-quality sparkler. OFF ROAD ON TRACK - THE TEAM OF WEINGUT STUDIER, PALATINATE Studier/Palatinate With the organically certified Studier Winery from Ellerstadt, a third winery from the Palatinate has added its wines to our list. Ellerstadt is located in the Northern Palatinate, where Reinhard Studier’s team grows its vines on the soils along the plain. Historically, these were the ‘lesser’ sites because they had neither the barren minerality nor the steep southern exposure of other vineyards. An exception is the Kirchenstück with its sandy loess loam which is able to produce remarkable wines. In addition is AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 63
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Angel García, the founder of bodeg
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CONTENTS COLUMNS / REPORTS 26 7 New
Page 5 and 6:
EDITORIAL PHILIPPE GAILLARD - EDITO
Page 7 and 8:
NEWS CHÂTEAU-FIGEAC, FINALLY AT TH
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FOUR WINEMAKERS FOR AUTUMN 2022 CH
Page 11 and 12: BORDEAUX FOCUS THE VINEYARDS IN FRO
Page 13 and 14: BORDEAUX FOCUS THE ISSUES AT STAKE
Page 15 and 16: BORDEAUX FOCUS and there must be a
Page 17 and 18: BORDEAUX FOCUS 12 hectares under vi
Page 19 and 20: BORDEAUX FOCUS UNI-MÉDOC: A CO-OPE
Page 21 and 22: BORDEAUX FOCUS all of which is regu
Page 23 and 24: BORDEAUX FOCUS Crus Bourgeois will
Page 25 and 26: 4 covers: France, Italy, Spain, Sou
Page 27 and 28: RHÔNE VALLEY IDENTITY DOMAINE MOUR
Page 29 and 30: CAVE DE PAZAC, BETWEEN THE RHONE AN
Page 31 and 32: OLIVIER ROUQUET, THE MANAGER OF CH
Page 33 and 34: PATRICIA AND JOËL JACQUET CRAFT AU
Page 35 and 36: RHÔNE VALLEY IDENTITY clay-limesto
Page 37 and 38: MUSCADET, FROM EVOLUTION TO REVOLUT
Page 39 and 40: TIME FOR CHRISTIAN DUMORTIER TO TAS
Page 41 and 42: MUSCADET VINEYARDS Coing in Saint-F
Page 43 and 44: MUSCADET VINEYARDS DOMAINE DU HAUT
Page 45 and 46: DOMAINE CLAUDE MICHEL PICHON real t
Page 47 and 48: ITALY APPELLATION T he historic Ita
Page 49 and 50: FRANCO ZILIANI’S THREE CHILDREN,
Page 51 and 52: STEFANO CAPELLI, THE WINEMAKER AT C
Page 53 and 54: ITALY APPELLATION Pinot Noir Franci
Page 55 and 56: DR. JOSKA BIONDELLI, THE OWNER AND
Page 57 and 58: GERMANY CLIMATE HARVESTING CHARDONN
Page 59 and 60: GERMANY CLIMATE By contrast, grape
Page 61: GERMANY CLIMATE GERMAN WINES PUT TH
Page 65 and 66: GERMANY CLIMATE GLEISZELLEN IN PALA
Page 67 and 68: SPAIN VINEYARDS LA GRANADILLA’S V
Page 69 and 70: EDUARDO CASAS, THE FOURTH GENERATIO
Page 71 and 72: THE TEAM AT VALDEMONJAS - THE MOYAN
Page 73 and 74: SPAIN VINEYARDS ANGEL GARCÍA, THE
Page 75 and 76: SOUTH AFRICA NEW GENERATION KLEIN C
Page 77 and 78: SOUTH AFRICA NEW GENERATION These e
Page 79 and 80: SOUTH AFRICA NEW GENERATION Extract
Page 81 and 82: VONDELING WINES VINEYARDS WITH THE
Page 83 and 84: SOUTH AFRICA NEW GENERATION busines
Page 85 and 86: BORDEAUX APPELLATION As a reminder,
Page 87 and 88: CLÉMENT PARADISI, THE WINEMAKER AT
Page 89 and 90: BORDEAUX APPELLATION Château Hyot
Page 91 and 92: ANNE-SOPHIE LARVOR, HEAD OF MARKETI
Page 94 and 95: FROM HVE TO ORGANIC, BURGUNDY MAKES
Page 96 and 97: LÉGENDES WILLIAM WATERKEYN, THE WI
Page 98 and 99: BURGUNDY ENDORSEMENTS DOMAINE BERGE
Page 100 and 101: LAURENT VOCORET BORDEAUX TRAVEL VIN
Page 102 and 103: BURGUNDY ENDORSEMENTS DOMAINE CAMIL
Page 104 and 105: VERMOUTH MAKES A MAJOR COMEBACK IN
Page 106 and 107: SPAIN TRENDING A MODERN TWIST MARIO
Page 108 and 109: PERUCCHI WAS THE FIRST VERMOUTH CRE
Page 110 and 111: BODEGAS NODUS PRODUCES ITS VERMOUTH
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SPAIN TRENDING MARTÍNEZ LACUESTA,
Page 114 and 115:
LÉGENDES FERNANDO GIMÉNEZ ALVEAR,
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STARS & WINE CAMERON DIAZ WITH KATH
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PAGES 119 TO 130 TOP WINES OUR AUTU
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FRANCE - MOULIS OUR AUTUMN SELECTIO
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SOUTH AFRICA - CENTRAL ORANGE RIVER
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SOUTH AFRICA - ELGIN OUR AUTUMN SEL
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SOUTH AFRICA - PAARL - SIMONSBERG O
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SPAIN - CIGALES D.O. OUR AUTUMN SEL
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SPAIN - RUEDA D.O. OUR AUTUMN SELEC
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13-15 FEB. 2023 PARIS EXPO PORTE DE
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