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FROM HVE TO ORGANIC, BURGUNDY MAKES A PLEDGE TO THE ENVIRONMENT BY JEAN-PAUL BURIAS PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF THE ESTATES, © BIVB, © IMAGE & ASSOCIÉS, © SÉBASTIEN BOULARD When a legendary wine region makes a firm commitment to the environment, its status is enhanced even further. In Burgundy, the number of wineries certified High Environmental Value has doubled since 2020, a trend which mirrors the region’s long-standing quality-driven focus. Gilbert & Gaillard went to the heart of the region to find out more about the phenomenon. A HUT SURROUNDED BY VINES 94 AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
BURGUNDY ENDORSEMENTS THE VINEYARDS AT DOMAINE YVON ET LAURENT VOCORET Investing in an earth-friendly approach to winegrowing using more environmentally friendly techniques is becoming part and parcel of a winegrower’s life. Renowned for its prestigious appellations, Burgundy is benefitting from the commitment of a growing number of estates that produce wines organically, both in the vineyard and the winery. In France, High Environmental Value (HVE) endorsement crowns the highest level of environmental certification for farms. Since the scheme’s inception in February 2012, the number of certified farms has grown steadily. By 1 July 2021, more than 19,000 farms had garnered the certification, including a large number of wineries. At the end of the certification process, HVE endorses properties that promote biodiversity and offer a complementary network for crops, preserve life in the soils to maintain fertility, develop positive synergies with the natural environment of the crops and encourage the development of useful fauna, including precious pollinators. These criteria are core components of work in the vineyard, entailing a more independent approach to plant protection products and treatment, along with water management. The certification gives winegrowers the freedom to act as they see fit. They can choose the techniques best suited to the characteristics of their vineyards, soil, climate and plot size in order to develop environmental practices that treat the unique character of their vineyard sites, and therefore their wines, with respect. “To secure the endorsement, winegrowers must put together an application and then request an audit by an accredited external organisation”, explains a spokesperson from the Burgundy Wine Bureau (BIVB). “An initial intermediate audit is carried out 18 months after certification for review. Then a renewal is required every three years. The process is not necessarily a stepping stone to the more restrictive transition to organic farming. There is no connection between the two initiatives. Everyone can follow the route they choose – they can view HVE as a step towards organic, stay HVE or go straight to organic farming without transitioning via HVE”. We follow the unique environmental journey of eight Burgundy estates, which illustrate to perfection how varied this wine region can be. AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE 95
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Angel García, the founder of bodeg
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CONTENTS COLUMNS / REPORTS 26 7 New
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EDITORIAL PHILIPPE GAILLARD - EDITO
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NEWS CHÂTEAU-FIGEAC, FINALLY AT TH
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FOUR WINEMAKERS FOR AUTUMN 2022 CH
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BORDEAUX FOCUS THE VINEYARDS IN FRO
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BORDEAUX FOCUS THE ISSUES AT STAKE
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BORDEAUX FOCUS and there must be a
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BORDEAUX FOCUS 12 hectares under vi
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BORDEAUX FOCUS UNI-MÉDOC: A CO-OPE
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BORDEAUX FOCUS all of which is regu
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BORDEAUX FOCUS Crus Bourgeois will
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4 covers: France, Italy, Spain, Sou
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RHÔNE VALLEY IDENTITY DOMAINE MOUR
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CAVE DE PAZAC, BETWEEN THE RHONE AN
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OLIVIER ROUQUET, THE MANAGER OF CH
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PATRICIA AND JOËL JACQUET CRAFT AU
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RHÔNE VALLEY IDENTITY clay-limesto
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MUSCADET, FROM EVOLUTION TO REVOLUT
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TIME FOR CHRISTIAN DUMORTIER TO TAS
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MUSCADET VINEYARDS Coing in Saint-F
Page 43 and 44: MUSCADET VINEYARDS DOMAINE DU HAUT
Page 45 and 46: DOMAINE CLAUDE MICHEL PICHON real t
Page 47 and 48: ITALY APPELLATION T he historic Ita
Page 49 and 50: FRANCO ZILIANI’S THREE CHILDREN,
Page 51 and 52: STEFANO CAPELLI, THE WINEMAKER AT C
Page 53 and 54: ITALY APPELLATION Pinot Noir Franci
Page 55 and 56: DR. JOSKA BIONDELLI, THE OWNER AND
Page 57 and 58: GERMANY CLIMATE HARVESTING CHARDONN
Page 59 and 60: GERMANY CLIMATE By contrast, grape
Page 61 and 62: GERMANY CLIMATE GERMAN WINES PUT TH
Page 63 and 64: GERMANY CLIMATE Sankt Laurent (an o
Page 65 and 66: GERMANY CLIMATE GLEISZELLEN IN PALA
Page 67 and 68: SPAIN VINEYARDS LA GRANADILLA’S V
Page 69 and 70: EDUARDO CASAS, THE FOURTH GENERATIO
Page 71 and 72: THE TEAM AT VALDEMONJAS - THE MOYAN
Page 73 and 74: SPAIN VINEYARDS ANGEL GARCÍA, THE
Page 75 and 76: SOUTH AFRICA NEW GENERATION KLEIN C
Page 77 and 78: SOUTH AFRICA NEW GENERATION These e
Page 79 and 80: SOUTH AFRICA NEW GENERATION Extract
Page 81 and 82: VONDELING WINES VINEYARDS WITH THE
Page 83 and 84: SOUTH AFRICA NEW GENERATION busines
Page 85 and 86: BORDEAUX APPELLATION As a reminder,
Page 87 and 88: CLÉMENT PARADISI, THE WINEMAKER AT
Page 89 and 90: BORDEAUX APPELLATION Château Hyot
Page 91 and 92: ANNE-SOPHIE LARVOR, HEAD OF MARKETI
Page 96 and 97: LÉGENDES WILLIAM WATERKEYN, THE WI
Page 98 and 99: BURGUNDY ENDORSEMENTS DOMAINE BERGE
Page 100 and 101: LAURENT VOCORET BORDEAUX TRAVEL VIN
Page 102 and 103: BURGUNDY ENDORSEMENTS DOMAINE CAMIL
Page 104 and 105: VERMOUTH MAKES A MAJOR COMEBACK IN
Page 106 and 107: SPAIN TRENDING A MODERN TWIST MARIO
Page 108 and 109: PERUCCHI WAS THE FIRST VERMOUTH CRE
Page 110 and 111: BODEGAS NODUS PRODUCES ITS VERMOUTH
Page 112 and 113: SPAIN TRENDING MARTÍNEZ LACUESTA,
Page 114 and 115: LÉGENDES FERNANDO GIMÉNEZ ALVEAR,
Page 116 and 117: STARS & WINE CAMERON DIAZ WITH KATH
Page 118 and 119: PAGES 119 TO 130 TOP WINES OUR AUTU
Page 120 and 121: FRANCE - MOULIS OUR AUTUMN SELECTIO
Page 122 and 123: SOUTH AFRICA - CENTRAL ORANGE RIVER
Page 124 and 125: SOUTH AFRICA - ELGIN OUR AUTUMN SEL
Page 126 and 127: SOUTH AFRICA - PAARL - SIMONSBERG O
Page 128 and 129: SPAIN - CIGALES D.O. OUR AUTUMN SEL
Page 130 and 131: SPAIN - RUEDA D.O. OUR AUTUMN SELEC
Page 132: 13-15 FEB. 2023 PARIS EXPO PORTE DE
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