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Angel García, the founder of<br />
bodegas Santa Rufina and his<br />
daughter Blanca García<br />
BODEGAS SANTA RUFINA<br />
QUALITY FIRST<br />
PAGES 118-130<br />
OUR AUTUMN SELECTIONS<br />
MEDOC CRUS BOURGEOIS, FRANCIACORTA,<br />
SOUTH AFRICA, CASTILLA Y LEÓN<br />
L 19045 - 49 - F: 7,95 € - RD<br />
AUTUMN 2022
Enter your wines now: en-vigneron.gilbertgaillard.com
CONTENTS<br />
COLUMNS / REPORTS<br />
26<br />
7<br />
News<br />
10<br />
Focus<br />
Be prepared to fall in<br />
love with Crus Bourgeois<br />
wines<br />
26<br />
Identity<br />
Costières de Nîmes,<br />
Luberon, Ventoux –<br />
Three wine regions with<br />
a difference<br />
66<br />
Vineyards<br />
Castilla y León old vines,<br />
terroir and heritage<br />
74<br />
New generation<br />
South Africa:<br />
Reconciling wine<br />
production with<br />
conservation<br />
84<br />
Appellation<br />
Castillon, a left-field<br />
view of the right bank<br />
115<br />
Stars & Wine<br />
Cameron Diaz: From<br />
acting to making wine<br />
117<br />
Contact details<br />
118<br />
2022 Autumn selection<br />
56<br />
74<br />
37<br />
Vineyards<br />
Muscadet, from<br />
evolution to revolution!<br />
46<br />
Appellation<br />
Franciacorta, the symbol<br />
of Italian traditional<br />
method sparkling wine<br />
56<br />
Climate<br />
Are German wines<br />
the winners of global<br />
warming?<br />
94<br />
Endorsements<br />
From HVE to organic,<br />
Burgundy makes<br />
a pledge to the<br />
environment<br />
104<br />
Trending<br />
Vermouth makes<br />
a major comeback<br />
in Spain<br />
94<br />
Gilbert & Gaillard next issue<br />
Winter 2022<br />
COVER: COURTESY OF THE ESTATES<br />
AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
3
EDITORIAL<br />
FRANÇOIS GILBERT - EDITORIAL DIRECTOR<br />
FRANCIACORTA:<br />
ITALY’S ANSWER TO STYLISH SPARKLING WINE<br />
The rolling hills of Franciacorta unfurl across<br />
Lombardy, in the province of Brescia, where<br />
they share the landscape with northern Italy’s great<br />
glacier-derived lakes, mostly South of Lake Iseo. The<br />
hilly region between Bergamo and Verona provides<br />
good aspects and a mild climate, due to the protection<br />
afforded by the nearby Alps. The location also<br />
instils the wines with amazing freshness, character,<br />
incredible minerality and pronounced structure. Basically,<br />
this configuration produces some of Italy’s finest<br />
sparkling wines. It is no mere accident that the local<br />
grape varieties are Chardonnay, Pinot blanc and Pinot<br />
noir. Or that the wines stored in cellars hewn out of<br />
the ground are made using the traditional method,<br />
with a secondary fermentation in the bottle. Imitation<br />
produces the best results, you might say. That’s<br />
certainly true, but there is no denying the fact that<br />
Franciacorta has done so skilfully, its talent matched<br />
only by the quality of its vineyard sites. These have<br />
the ability to deliver infinite nuance, and also imbue<br />
the wines with a longevity that is rarely encountered<br />
outside Champagne – to name names.<br />
So why not let yourself be swept away by the landscapes<br />
and indulgent wines of Franciacorta. This is<br />
picture-postcard territory, packed full of what makes<br />
Italy what it is, a combination of the dolce vita and<br />
hard graft to produce delicious pours that are increasingly<br />
sought-after. From Satèn and Rosé to vintage,<br />
Reserva and wines with no dosage, they all have<br />
unsuspected qualities that we reveal in this issue.<br />
Don’t be surprised to find that they’ll soon be your<br />
go-to wines!<br />
4 AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
EDITORIAL<br />
PHILIPPE GAILLARD - EDITORIAL DIRECTOR<br />
WESTERN CAPE:<br />
DRIVING SUSTAINABILITY<br />
Despite South Africa’s long-standing history<br />
of producing wine, it has successfully carved<br />
out a place for itself in the modern era. The recent<br />
CapeWine exhibition is the wine industry’s perfect<br />
illustration of this. For 2022, the decision was made<br />
to present all the projects, programmes and activities<br />
that contribute to sustainability within the industry,<br />
under the banner ‘Sustainability 360’. The primary<br />
focus has been placed on three pillars – ‘People, Place<br />
and Prosperity’ – each one of them playing a vital role<br />
in ensuring a better future for South African wine,<br />
and those who are directly involved and committed<br />
to it. The future of the surroundings, the fauna and<br />
flora with which the wines interact, is also a critical<br />
component of the long-term growth and development<br />
of the industry.<br />
The ‘Sustainability 360’ theme is a nod both to the full<br />
circle or 360° sustainability achieved by the industry<br />
and its age. Since the very first day Cape grapes were<br />
fermented in 1659, over 360 years of winemaking have<br />
been notched up.<br />
Much more recently, the Integrated Production of<br />
Wine scheme (IPW) was established in 1998. Producers<br />
comply with IPW requirements and are independently<br />
audited. Farms that pass the audit are<br />
entitled to use the sustainability endorsement.<br />
As WOSA CEO Siobhan Thompson wrote recently:<br />
“Without sustainability, there can be no growth”. The<br />
stance resonates with Gilbert & Gaillard, as illustrated<br />
by this special editorial feature (page 74) which sheds<br />
light on the wines and practices of these committed<br />
wineries.<br />
AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
5
EDITORIAL<br />
SYLVAIN PATARD - EDITOR IN CHIEF<br />
CRUS BOURGEOIS REACH<br />
FOR THE SKY<br />
category of Bordeaux wine reserved for the Médoc,<br />
A Crus Bourgeois in some ways live in the shadow of<br />
the 1855-classified Grands Crus. In actual fact, though,<br />
their origins stem from the same source. Several centuries<br />
ago, in the market town of Bordeaux under English<br />
rule, merchants were allowed to sell wines produced<br />
from their vineyards levy-free both locally and in export<br />
markets. The privilege would enable them to make their<br />
fortune and they would go on to buy the finest vineyards<br />
in the Médoc as early as the 15th century. At the time, the<br />
term ‘Bourgeois’ referred only to its original meaning of<br />
‘town dweller’ (‘bourg’ means town) and not to any kind<br />
of social class.<br />
After a chequered history, their crowning moment finally<br />
came in the 20th century with landmark dates such as<br />
1935 – the first real classification – then 1962 with the<br />
inception of the Médoc Crus Bourgeois producers’ organisation<br />
and 1979, when the Crus Bourgeois statement<br />
was permitted on labels. The last decade has allowed<br />
them to fully get up to speed and they are now unanimously<br />
hailed by both the trade and consumers. The<br />
reason for this is that they offer both good price points<br />
and quality due to demanding specifications whose<br />
primary focus is on site-expressiveness. It is essential<br />
to remember that they account for over 30% of Médoc<br />
production with some 28 million bottles annually. From<br />
this perspective, at the very least, they are on a par with<br />
the Grands Crus Classés. Probably their only remaining<br />
challenge is to nurture their image as successfully as<br />
the great growths have done and become an essential<br />
component of the market, both in France and internationally.<br />
They have certainly gone a long way towards<br />
achieving that already.<br />
6 AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
NEWS<br />
CHÂTEAU-FIGEAC, FINALLY AT THE TOP<br />
The 2022 Grands Crus de Saint-Emilion classification has finally promoted Château-Figeac to Premier Grand Cru Classé A status.<br />
The endorsement rewards<br />
relentless hard work and<br />
above all recognises the outstanding<br />
quality of its terroir and its<br />
unique place in Saint-Emilion<br />
due to its fairly unique varietal<br />
range. Owned by the same family<br />
since 1892 and ranked as a Premier<br />
Grand Cru Classé since 1955,<br />
Château- Figeac’s promotion is<br />
not so much a culmination as an<br />
invitation to continue the work<br />
that has already been achieved.<br />
The hardest part is just beginning.<br />
The higher up the rankings, the<br />
further there is to fall.<br />
The Manoncourt family, all the<br />
staff at the chateau and the editorial<br />
team at Gilbert & Gaillard spare a special<br />
CHÂTEAU-FIGEAC<br />
thought for Thierry Manoncourt whose dearest<br />
wish was to see Figeac “in its rightful place”. It<br />
was his lifetime achievement, into which he<br />
THIERRY MANONCOURT, WHO PASSED AWAY IN<br />
2010, DEVOTED HIS LIFE TO CHÂTEAU-FIGEAC<br />
poured his spirit of innovation, distinctiveness,<br />
excellence and authenticity which still<br />
live on today.<br />
www.chateau-figeac.com<br />
© Twin Lefevre<br />
WILL THE 2022 VINTAGE REKINDLE MARKET INTEREST?<br />
The same three leading wine producers, in Europe and worldwide, should produce just over 130 million hectolitres<br />
according to initial estimates by European industry organisations.<br />
Despite extreme weather events throughout the season, the 2022 vintage witnessed a<br />
slight increase in crop yields in all three countries compared with 2021 (128.7 million<br />
hectolitres), but is likely to remain below the five-year average (132.9 mhl between 2017<br />
and 2021). Ranking first worldwide since 2015, Italy holds onto its leadership position<br />
with a 2022 output of around 50 million hectolitres. France is a distant second, with an<br />
estimated 44 million hectolitres (on the back of a 16% rise), despite being impacted by<br />
lack of rainfall and high summer temperatures which brought volumes down. Spain is<br />
likely to rank third with 35 million hectolitres. Harvesting was early in all three countries<br />
and the crop mostly avoided mildew and other fungal diseases.<br />
The only positive aspect of the drought and high temperatures is that 2022 fruit is mostly<br />
healthy with promising levels of ripeness. It now remains to be seen whether the quality<br />
will be enough to elicit a positive response from the marketplace after the shortfall in<br />
2021 put a damper on expectations.<br />
Source Vitisphere<br />
A GREAT QUALITY HARVEST AND MORE<br />
GENEROUS VOLUMES<br />
© Gilbert & Gaillard<br />
AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
7
NEWS<br />
2022 GOSSET TROPHY: SAFEGUARDING HERITAGE<br />
FOR FUTURE GENERATIONS<br />
Established in 1995, the Gosset Trophy was originally designed to award the variety and delicacy of France’s gourmet food culture.<br />
It has gradually evolved to more broadly celebrate those who protect French heritage, both tangible and intangible.<br />
This prestigious award has honoured top restaurant<br />
personalities and their Champagne wine lists, showcased<br />
chef/sommelier duos, rewarded charitable initiatives<br />
in the culinary art space and turned the spotlight on<br />
schemes focusing on children, women, people with disabilities<br />
and vulnerable communities.<br />
For its 27 th edition, the panel selected Alain Baraton, ‘the<br />
gardener of Versailles’, a great supporter of trees and<br />
nature protector, as its 50th recipient. It also presented<br />
a special award to Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger who has<br />
undertaken a very laudable mission to protect the unique<br />
heritage features of the Champagne Hillsides, Houses and<br />
Cellars for Unesco.<br />
©Photoheart-min<br />
ALAIN BARATON, JEAN-PIERRE COINTREAU (GOSSET PRESIDENT)<br />
AND PIERRE-EMMANUEL TAITTINGER<br />
2012 CUVÉE GOSSET: ANOTHER NEW RELEASE<br />
2012 Celebris Blanc de Blancs is yet another innovation by this inspired and inspirational Champagne house.<br />
Only 15,000 bottles of the label, which showcases Chardonnay from the most<br />
noble and complementary provenances, have been released. 2012 Celebris<br />
Blanc de Blancs is dressed in gold. Its nose is fresh, energetic and distinctive,<br />
with lemon, grapefruit and a touch of toast. The attack on the palate is clean<br />
and smooth with a gorgeous lemony edge and a very palatable saline finish.<br />
It prompts pairings with even the most extravagant foods, from ceviche and<br />
carpaccio to scallop tartare, oysters and caviar. The final word should go to the<br />
most qualified person to talk about the new label, cellar master Odilon de Varine:<br />
“This is the first vintage Blanc de Blancs by the house. 2012 Chardonnay lent<br />
itself particularly well to the desired balance for a Gosset Celebris label”.<br />
©Photoheart-min<br />
Defining features: 100% Chardonnay • Cellaring date: 2013 (9 years’ lees maturation)<br />
• Disgorgement: March 2022 • Dosage: 7 g/l • Villages: Ambonnay, Avize, Cramant,<br />
Cumières, Passy-sur-Marne, Trépail, Vertus, Villers-Marmery, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger.<br />
Recommended retail price: €250 at all good wine merchants and direct-to-consumer at +33 3 26 56 99 56<br />
www.champagne-gosset.com<br />
8 AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
FOUR<br />
WINEMAKERS<br />
FOR AUTUMN<br />
2022<br />
CHÂTEAU CAMBON<br />
LA PELOUSE<br />
2016<br />
HAUT-MÉDOC<br />
18,50€<br />
DAVID COUTANCEAU<br />
CAVAVIN PLOUFRAGAN<br />
2C, rue du Calvaire<br />
22440 ploufragan<br />
+33 2 96 79 77 69<br />
ploufragan@cavavin.fr<br />
DOMAINE LES<br />
GRANDES COSTES<br />
2018<br />
PIC SAINT-LOUP<br />
23,90€<br />
LOU RAYACOBALLE<br />
CAVAVIN DAMMARTIN EN GOELE<br />
1, rue Saint-Jean<br />
77230 Dammartin en Goële<br />
+33 1 60 54 32 56<br />
dammartin@cavavin.fr<br />
CHATEAU<br />
D’ESCOT<br />
2015<br />
MÉDOC<br />
14,40€<br />
MARIE EDITH DUARTE<br />
CAVAVIN DAX<br />
1, avenue Georges CLémenceau<br />
40100 DAX<br />
+33 5 58 55 02 92<br />
dax@cavavin.fr<br />
CHÂTEAU VIELLA<br />
PRESTIGE<br />
2016<br />
MADIRAN<br />
18,80€<br />
CHRISTOPHE LABBE<br />
CAVAVIN LES HERBIERS<br />
10, rue Nationale<br />
85500 Les Herbiers<br />
+33 9 63 62 88 84<br />
lesherbiers@cavavin.fr<br />
7, parc des Fontenelles - 78870 Bailly - France<br />
Tel.: +33 1 30 80 08 08 - Fax: +33 1 30 80 08 88<br />
Editorial Directors:<br />
François Gilbert and Philippe Gaillard<br />
Editor in chief: Sylvain Patard<br />
Tasting committee: François Gilbert, Philippe<br />
Gaillard, Sylvain Patard, François Bezuidenhout,<br />
Olivier Delorme, Matthieu Gaillard, James Turnbull<br />
Editorial staff: Michèle Huyard<br />
Contributors to this issue: Jean-Paul Burias,<br />
Isabelle Escande, Alain Echalier, Florian Glemot<br />
DipWSET, Matthias Neske, Samarie Smith<br />
DipWSET, Sylvain Patard, Frank Rousseau,<br />
Francesco Saverio Russo<br />
Translation: Sharon Nagel, Marika Quarti<br />
Sales and Marketing Director:<br />
Etienne Gaillard : +33 6 30 97 87 26<br />
etienne@gilbertgaillard.com<br />
Advertising France:<br />
Bordeaux - Charentes: Frédéric Comet:<br />
+33 6 27 58 47 06 - fcomet@gilbertgaillard.com<br />
Corsica - Languedoc - Provence - Rhône Valley:<br />
Nicolas Sanseigne: +33 6 46 86 80 01 -<br />
nsanseigne@gilbertgaillard.com<br />
Jura - Loire Valley - Savoy - South West -<br />
Roussillon: Caroline Gilbert: +33 6 84 92 57 61 -<br />
caroline@gilbertgaillard.com<br />
Alsace -Beaujolais - Burgundy - Champagne:<br />
Lucie Jeandel: +33 6 77 72 16 04 -<br />
ljeandel@gilbertgaillard.com<br />
Advertising Italy: Sandra Sirvente:<br />
(+33) 7 63 87 13 13 - ssirvente@gilbertgaillard.com<br />
Advertising Spain, Portugal: Thibault Leray:<br />
(+33) 6 84 01 57 24 - tleray@gilbertgaillard.com<br />
Advertising Central and Eastern Europe:<br />
Philippe Ricros: +33 7 61 76 01 22 -<br />
pricros@gilbertgaillard.com<br />
Marketing coordinator: Lucie Le Gall: +33 7 87 07 78 76<br />
l.legall@gilbertgaillard.com<br />
Production: Isabelle Méjean-Plé - Tapioka Conseil:<br />
+33 9 71 41 51 49<br />
Lay-out: Lise Delattre - Com l’Hirondelle: +33 9 81 47 75 25<br />
Murielle Guégan - Impactea Concept: +33 6 59 32 08 65<br />
Printed in Spain: Matthieu Battini - Carré Collé:<br />
+33 6 87 27 12 65<br />
Gilbert & Gaillard Tasting South-Africa:<br />
Petru Venter, General Manager: +27 82 787 1784 -<br />
petru@gilbertgaillard.com<br />
Olivier Duroy, Area Manager: +27 72 389 1083 -<br />
oduroy@gilbertgaillard.com<br />
Matthieu Gaillard, Brand Ambassador: +27 66 429 9219<br />
International Distribution: Pineapple Media Ltd -<br />
http://www.pineapple-media.com<br />
Gilbert & Gaillard is published by Vinipresse, SARL with a capital of 35,500 euros • Head Office: 7 parc des Fontenelles, 78870 Bailly, France • Legal representative and Editorial<br />
director: Sylvain Patard • Legal deposit: Third quarter 2022 • Legal publication n° pending •ISSN 2110-6762 • Reproduction of part or all of the contents of this magazine in any form<br />
is expressly prohibited. Any company names that appear in the articles are given for information only and have no publicity purpose.<br />
AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
9
BE PREPARED TO FALL<br />
IN LOVE WITH<br />
CRUS BOURGEOIS WINES<br />
BY ALAIN ECHALIER<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS:<br />
©CLAUDE CLIN-0604,<br />
© CLAUDE PETIT<br />
Are you really familiar with Bordeaux wines sporting the intriguing ‘Cru<br />
Bourgeois’ moniker on their labels? In an era of constant one-upmanship and an<br />
ocean of endorsements and superlatives, is this just one more marketing gimmick<br />
to catch the consumer’s eye, or is it genuinely meaningful? We went through the<br />
required specifications with a fine-tooth comb and quizzed the chairman of the<br />
Alliance along with various member chateaux. And here is our verdict!<br />
CHÂTEAU DE VILLAMBIS<br />
10 AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
BORDEAUX<br />
FOCUS<br />
THE VINEYARDS IN FRONT OF CHÂTEAU DE VILLAMBIS<br />
Many Bordeaux vineyards were developed by ‘investors’ who often lived in the<br />
city. The ‘Crus Bourgeois’ designation – meaning wines belonging to town residents<br />
– is therefore a natural extension and a very ancient one at that. You might<br />
therefore think it was already synonymous with good taste and modernity even<br />
though, in French as in English, it can now also have a different connotation.<br />
Within the world of wine, classifications have been around for centuries. In Bordeaux,<br />
one noteworthy example is the classification presented to the future US President<br />
Thomas Jefferson in 1787. More importantly, in 1855 Napoleon III asked French wine<br />
regions to classify their wines ahead of the ‘Exposition Universelle’. Bordeaux wine<br />
brokers responded with a list of just 61 Médoc red wines, a mere drop in the ocean<br />
compared to the region’s countless vineyards.<br />
So in 1858, 248 other noteworthy ‘Crus Bourgeois’ were also listed. When the 61 chosen<br />
few from 1855 decided to drop the statement in favour of the highly gratifying ‘Grand<br />
Cru Classé’ status, the term continued to be used by the other category of wines.<br />
Despite this, it is widely believed that it was not until 1932 that a serious classification<br />
of the wines was undertaken by Bordeaux wine brokers, followed by the creation of a<br />
Crus Bourgeois producers’ organisation in 1962. In 2003, a ministerial decree finally<br />
enshrined 247 chateaux from the 490 properties in the running, but the classification<br />
was rescinded in 2007. A new classification for the 2008 vintage featured 243 chateaux<br />
and since 2012, the selection process has been placed under the authority of INAO.<br />
The classification is now reviewed every 5 years and only features red wines from the<br />
Médoc. The latest iteration is for 2020 and classifies properties for the 2018, 2019,<br />
2020 and also 2021 and 2022 vintages.<br />
AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
11
A TASTING OF<br />
CRUS BOURGEOIS<br />
DU MÉDOC<br />
HOW IT WORKS<br />
The classification process is now organised by the Alliance des Crus Bourgeois. Only<br />
‘chateaux’ vineyards in 8 appellations can compete: Médoc, Haut-Médoc, Listrac-<br />
Médoc, Moulis-en-Médoc, Margaux, Saint-Julien, Pauillac and Saint- Estèphe.<br />
Firstly, the Crus are given an application to apply for one of three levels of classification:<br />
Cru Bourgeois, Cru Bourgeois Supérieur and Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel.<br />
Compliance with the respective specifications is then checked.<br />
Next comes the tasting stage, where several samples are tasted blind. Bureau Veritas<br />
is tasked with coordinating the tasting sessions and analysing the judges’ tasting<br />
abilities. The Crus Bourgeois only handle the judges’ training. Five vintages – from<br />
8 to 4 years previous – are taken into consideration for a classification which can be<br />
displayed on the label for 5 years, from 2 years previous to 2 years ahead. So quality<br />
is not the only factor taken into account, consistency is important too.<br />
Obviously Crus Bourgeois Supérieurs, and even more so Crus Bourgeois Exceptionnels<br />
require the highest tasting scores.<br />
Subsequently, at least 2 of the 5 vintages used for the tasting are tested at random,<br />
just before the wines are bottled for each of the chateaux, in order to check that<br />
consumers will definitely be drinking the wines judged for the classification. In 2020,<br />
250 Crus were selected, including 56 Crus Bourgeois Supérieurs and 14 Crus Bourgeois<br />
Exceptionnels. The wines represented 28 million bottles, or approximately 31%<br />
of Médoc wine production.<br />
A sticker is placed on every bottle – sometimes on the neck or alternatively on the back<br />
label – featuring a QR code. Using a smartphone app that can be downloaded, consumers<br />
can check the authenticity of the wine. They are directed to the Crus Bourgeois<br />
website where information on the chosen wine is displayed, along with details about<br />
the chateau and the vineyard site, for instance.<br />
12 AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
BORDEAUX<br />
FOCUS<br />
THE ISSUES AT STAKE FOR THE<br />
CRUS BOURGEOIS<br />
FRANCK BIJON, CHAIRMAN OF THE CRUS BOURGEOIS DU MÉDOC<br />
Franck Bijon, chairman of the Alliance des<br />
Crus Bourgeois, points out the current trends<br />
and issues for Crus Bourgeois wines. The<br />
process, which is clearly and properly codified,<br />
is primarily aimed at creating healthy competition<br />
within the Crus Bourgeois category. This<br />
is essential because quality is a critical factor<br />
in an era where the consumer price tag ranges<br />
from 5 to 28 euros. Bordeaux has been particularly<br />
hard hit over the past 3 to 5 years. The<br />
pricing, often designed to ensure cash-flow over<br />
the short term, is not viable over the long term<br />
and for many is below actual cost price. People<br />
talk about “fair trade for chocolate”, but perhaps<br />
they should also take an interest in wine, quips<br />
Bijon. For now, the consumer has everything to<br />
gain. Bijon suggests a contest between a Cru<br />
Bourgeois and a fourth or fifth growth Grand<br />
Cru Classé (Ed. GCC have five different levels).<br />
The quality is there, for half the price.<br />
The style of the wines is also changing. Judges<br />
have to take into consideration the wines’<br />
ageing potential. Bijon, who also happens to be<br />
MD of Vignobles Larose and their former technical<br />
director, points out that current winemaking<br />
techniques produce wines that will keep<br />
for 7 to 15 years, but are also a pleasure to drink<br />
when younger. Cellaring capacity is no longer<br />
synonymous with austerity, as used to be the<br />
case in Bordeaux.<br />
Reviewing the classification every 5 years also<br />
provides a great incentive to make quality<br />
wines. As a reminder, the classification for the<br />
Grands Crus Classés has been ‘cast in stone’<br />
since 1855, when in actual fact, the vineyards<br />
used have on occasion changed significantly,<br />
through sales and acquisitions for instance.<br />
For the Crus Bourgeois, no more than 10% of<br />
the vineyards earmarked for the Cru can change<br />
AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
13
CHÂTEAU LAROSE<br />
TRINTAUDON<br />
BORDEAUX<br />
TRAVEL<br />
THE CRUS BOURGEOIS<br />
DU MÉDOC<br />
FROM LEFT TO RIGHT,<br />
KARIN, JÉROME AND<br />
RÉGIS BERNALEAU<br />
14 SPRING 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
BORDEAUX<br />
FOCUS<br />
and there must be a dedicated winery and ageing cellar. This provides consumers<br />
with a significant token of reliability.<br />
And there is every likelihood that requirements will continue to increase.<br />
Although organic farming is not yet a prerequisite in production specifications,<br />
environmental considerations are gaining traction. From 2030, level 3 HVE<br />
certification will be required but the Crus Bourgeois team is also mulling<br />
taking on board other expectations expressed by society.<br />
VIGNOBLE BERNALEAU:<br />
RECOGNITION AND A SALES BOOST<br />
Karin Bernaleau is now the co-manager of the namesake vineyards. Her grandfather<br />
used to farm vines in the Margaux appellation area. But that was a different<br />
era – mixed farming was the norm on the farm which also bred calves…<br />
The present-day vineyards are divided between two chateaux. Mongravey is<br />
situated in the Margaux appellation. It is a Cru Bourgeois Supérieur with<br />
KARIN BERNALEAU INTRODUCES HER WINES TO ASIANS<br />
AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
15
KARIN BERNALEAU<br />
AT THE GATES TO<br />
CHÂTEAU DE BRAUDE<br />
BORDEAUX<br />
FOCUS<br />
16 AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
BORDEAUX<br />
FOCUS<br />
12 hectares under vine in 40 different blocks,<br />
65% of which are planted with Cabernet-Sauvignon,<br />
33% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc. De<br />
Braude is in the Haut-Médoc appellation area,<br />
and is the family chateau. It produces Cru<br />
Bourgeois wines grown over 8.5 hectares, 60%<br />
planted to Cabernet-Sauvignon and 40% Merlot.<br />
Both Crus became Crus Bourgeois in 2003.<br />
Karin views the achievement as a way of securing<br />
recognition for 30 years’ hard work, but<br />
also positioning the wines for the consumer.<br />
The price of a bottle of Mongravey, depending<br />
on the vintage, ranges from 27 to 32 euros, as<br />
compared with 18 to 20 euros for De Braude.<br />
Although the wines sold well before, entering<br />
the Crus Bourgeois category increased media<br />
exposure, an undeniable bonus when market<br />
conditions started to become more challenging.<br />
The Place de Bordeaux took greater interest in<br />
the wines, and exports were facilitated. Karin<br />
remembers one occasion when a visit from a<br />
Swiss journalist subsequently enabled her to<br />
open up the Swiss market.<br />
The Alliance des Crus Bourgeois is a good<br />
resource for collaborative promotion of the<br />
wines. Levies allow them to take part in exhibitions<br />
like Vinexpo or to travel to China. The Cru<br />
Bourgeois sticker is effective for engaging with<br />
consumers and Karin makes sure to place it<br />
prominently on her bottles of wine. In Europe,<br />
and in China, Crus Bourgeois are well-received.<br />
In North America, however, efforts must be<br />
made to improve awareness.<br />
SABINE BEMELMANS AND ROBERT COURTIAU TASTING WINE AT CHÂTEAU DE VILLAMBIS<br />
CHÂTEAU DE VILLAMBIS: PRIDE<br />
The village of Cissac is home to a lovely, albeit<br />
unusual property. Château de Villambis belongs<br />
to an organisation whose purpose is to provide<br />
support for 120 people, some of whom are<br />
mentally disabled, and prepare them for life<br />
in the community. There are greenhouses for<br />
AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
17
BORDEAUX<br />
FOCUS<br />
producing plants, a laundry, industrial sub-contracting work, and also production<br />
of wine from a large, unbroken, 14-hectare vineyard. The soils contain sand<br />
and Pyrenean gravel. Sabine Bemelmans, its marketing secretary, explains that<br />
although the wine was put forward for the classification starting in 1932, in all<br />
honesty, no wines were produced on the estate between 1950 and 1979. The first<br />
bottle re-emerged in 1982 and the chateau joined the classification in 2003. Belonging<br />
to the Crus Bourgeois category is an obvious source of pride and gratification<br />
for everyone who works here, and implies that their work is treated with respect.<br />
The varietal range leans heavily in favour of Merlot (90%) with a little Cabernet-Sauvignon<br />
and 1% Petit Verdot. Its appellation is Haut-Médoc. The result<br />
is a supple wine with fine tannins, and an extremely appealing price tag of €8<br />
for the second wine and €14-15 for the high-end offering. Most of the wines are<br />
sold to private customers, regulars, many of whom are the friends and families<br />
of those who work there. Don’t think for a moment, however, that people buy<br />
the wines simply for ‘charitable’ reasons – the Château also exports to China<br />
and occasionally the United States, as well as selling to wholesalers. Affiliation<br />
with the Crus Bourgeois rewards the quality of the wines.<br />
THE GROUP OF VINE WORKERS AT CHÂTEAU DE VILLAMBIS<br />
18 AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
BORDEAUX<br />
FOCUS<br />
UNI-MÉDOC: A CO-OPERATIVE<br />
WINERY, AND CRU BOURGEOIS<br />
LAURENT VACHÉ, DIRECTOR OF UNIMEDOC<br />
Uni-Médoc, with its 140 member growers<br />
farming around one thousand hectares, is a<br />
sizeable co-operative winery representing<br />
17-18% of Médoc wine production. Its director,<br />
Laurent Vaché, stresses that although the<br />
winery has had an eventful history since it was<br />
founded in 1934, the past decade or so has been<br />
relatively stable.<br />
A co-operative winery is all about pooling<br />
resources. Uni-Médoc produces a complete range<br />
of wines, six of them classified as Crus Bourgeois,<br />
which equates to just under 10% of total production.<br />
In fact, its director is also the vice-chairman<br />
of the Alliance des Crus Bourgeois.<br />
In reality, as Laurent Vaché points out, the<br />
winery is just like any other producer. “For our<br />
Crus Bourgeois wines, the vineyard blocks are<br />
clearly identified, as is the production process,<br />
and inventories are kept separate. We thus fully<br />
comply with production specifications. In fact,<br />
our member growers are well-versed in the<br />
concept of specifications, because we use them<br />
for all the co-operative’s wines. Subsequently,<br />
our wines go through the tasting process for the<br />
Crus Bourgeois. And last but not least, they are<br />
not necessarily our highest-end wines – we have<br />
other brands that can be more expensive!”<br />
In the cellar door shop where the entire range<br />
is sold direct to consumers, the Crus Bourgeois<br />
are popular. Their prices range from €9 to 12.<br />
Uni-Médoc’s ethos revolves around supplying<br />
wines for pleasure that pair well with food.<br />
Some of them – like Château Clément – are<br />
exported to the United States and Germany.<br />
Differentiating between Château / Cru Bourgeois<br />
/ Co-operative Winery therefore no longer<br />
has currency, points out the winery’s director. The<br />
only things to remember are that a Cru Bourgeois<br />
is affordable, has a story to tell and offers quality,<br />
AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
19
THE IMPRESSIVE BARREL<br />
CELLAR AT UNIMEDOC<br />
BORDEAUX<br />
TRAVEL<br />
CHÂTEAU ROUSSEAU<br />
DE SIPIAN’S CHINESE OWNER<br />
IS A LOVER OF FRENCH WINE<br />
AND CULTURE<br />
20 SPRING 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
BORDEAUX<br />
FOCUS<br />
all of which is regulated and provides guarantees<br />
for consumers. Also, the wines have no specific<br />
target market – they can be equally sold to private<br />
customers directly, in supermarkets, Michelin-starred<br />
restaurants and wine merchants.<br />
THESE CHATEAUX BELONG TO THE UNIMEDOC CO-OPERATIVE WINERY<br />
CHÂTEAU ROUSSEAU DE SIPIAN:<br />
CHINESE, YET TYPICALLY BORDEAUX<br />
Before going any further, one thing should be<br />
pointed out – this pretty chateau is one of the<br />
Bordeaux properties bought by a Chinese buyer. In<br />
2019, Hong-Kong-based company Micronasia took<br />
ownership of the estate, buying it from an equally<br />
foreign vendor, British industrialist Christopher<br />
Race. Bordeaux has indeed attracted global interest<br />
for a very long time. Wu Jianqi is the owner’s<br />
local representative and says that the same staff of<br />
three continues to work at the property. The estate<br />
boasts 15 hectares, 10.5 of them planted with vines<br />
– 50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet-Sauvignon and 10%<br />
Petit Verdot.<br />
There are also 3,000 Sauvignon and Sémillon vines<br />
producing small amounts of white wine labelled<br />
Vin De France but, as Wu Jianqi hastens to add,<br />
“This is for the owner himself. He loves French<br />
wine and culture!”<br />
Most of the wines produced are red, and have<br />
been classified as Cru Bourgeois since 2008. For<br />
consumers, 90% of whom are now located in<br />
China, this is an endorsement of quality. Situated<br />
in northern Médoc, not far from the estuary, the<br />
winery produces rounded, fruity wines, which<br />
are popular in China. Winemaking techniques<br />
have not changed, though, points out Wu Jianqi,<br />
and the wines are still matured for 12 months in<br />
barrels. The chateau also offers wine tourism solutions,<br />
with guestrooms and dining facilities. The<br />
focus is on moving upmarket, so next time the<br />
application will aim for Cru Bourgeois Supérieur<br />
status!<br />
JIANQI WU, MANAGER OF CHÂTEAU<br />
ROUSSEAU DE SIPIAN<br />
AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
21
BORDEAUX<br />
FOCUS<br />
CHÂTEAU DE MALLERET: CRU EXCEPTIONNEL<br />
Paul Bordes, who has managed the estate since 2013, presents this superb property with<br />
its twenty or so hectares under vine, now in their second year of conversion to organic<br />
farming. The wines come under the Haut-Médoc appellation and are blended from Merlot<br />
and Cabernet-Sauvignon in proportions that vary every year, especially given the increasingly<br />
frequent extreme weather events.<br />
The growth was previously a Cru Bourgeois and became a Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel in<br />
2020. Paul Bordes, who has connections with Bordeaux’s Right Bank, takes a very positive<br />
view of the classification. As with Saint-Emilion, he points to the fact that it is periodically<br />
reviewed, and that the spotlight is turned on the wine itself. He remembers how the<br />
vintages he put forward were tasted twice by 10 people, blind. The process was very well<br />
organised, all of which gives it legitimacy for consumers and should improve price points.<br />
It will also promote direct-to-consumer sales, even though most of the property’s wines<br />
are sold via Bordeaux merchants.<br />
So far, he has not seen any major impact of the upgrade to Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel<br />
internationally. The promotion did not entail any changes in production methods,<br />
however, because the winery already adheres to a strict policy of high-quality winemaking,<br />
and is mulling a switch to biodynamics, for instance. The delayed reaction, though,<br />
can easily be ascribed to Covid which put a damper on communications. The Alliance des<br />
PAUL BORDES, WHO MANAGES CHÂTEAU DE MALLERET<br />
22 AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
BORDEAUX<br />
FOCUS<br />
Crus Bourgeois will be launching marketing campaigns and reputations are built up over<br />
time, and not overnight.<br />
One Bordeaux broker marketed cases containing one bottle each of the 14 Crus Bourgeois<br />
Exceptionnels, which were immediately snapped up, underscoring increased interest in<br />
the category.<br />
VIGNOBLES ROUX:<br />
CRUS BOURGEOIS ARE MEANINGFUL, AND RECOGNISED<br />
Inevitably, when it comes to Crus Bourgeois, we turn to Romain Roux with his typical<br />
South-West accent. As the owner of many vineyards, he has three Crus Bourgeois –<br />
Châteaux Plagnac, Puy Castera and Pontey. All three are from the Médoc and they sell<br />
respectively for around €6.5, €9.5 and €11.<br />
Right off the bat, he explains that he views the Médoc as a region with a future. Ongoing<br />
climate change offers the guarantee of delicious wines, now that issues of ripening are a<br />
thing of the past. All of a sudden, even the simple Bordeaux wines are good, he says, with<br />
his customary banter. In fact, he rants about the industry’s defeatist attitude – admittedly,<br />
Bordeaux bashing is a reality, and there can be weather issues, but Bordeaux’s value for<br />
money proposition has never been so good.<br />
THE CELLARS AT CHÂTEAU DE MALLERET<br />
AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
23
ROMAIN ROUX, OWNER OF<br />
CHÂTEAUX PUY CASTERA<br />
AND PONTEY, AMONG OTHER<br />
PROPERTIES<br />
Crus Bourgeois classification for the three wines is, he feels, a token of recognition.<br />
Although he is perhaps one of the Alliance’s largest owners, he has never taken an active<br />
role within the organisation because it is professional and works well. The levies are reasonable<br />
and the classification is recognised, in France, Asia and the United States – he has had<br />
first-hand experience of this at exhibitions in New York. So, every bottle he sells sports the<br />
sticker. Roux has never wanted to apply for Cru Supérieur or Exceptionnel status, despite<br />
the fact that his high-density vineyard Château Pontey is an absolute gem. The reason for<br />
this is that Cru Supérieur or Exceptionnel status entails wine tourism activities that he does<br />
not want to introduce – he grows wine and feels that everyone should stick to their own job.<br />
Roux owns other properties in the Médoc, which do not feature in the classification. One is<br />
a Haut-Médoc, in the more affordable, classic range. The other is in Saint-Estèphe. Neither<br />
are in the same product line, it’s all about positioning.<br />
The Crus Bourgeois institution is professional, peer-approved and offers a genuine<br />
guarantee for both its members and wine enthusiasts. But above and beyond this, the wine<br />
labels selected for the Cru Bourgeois classification now provide consumers with information<br />
that is easy to understand and practical, especially as they do their shopping, thanks<br />
to the QR code displayed on the bottles. The wine is authentic, tracked and has been tasted,<br />
enjoyed and approved. All of this takes away the stress for consumers at point of purchase,<br />
a crucial moment when they need to be reassured and comforted. And if that bottle also<br />
happens to display a Gilbert & Gaillard medal sticker, then you can rest assured that you<br />
are making the right choice!<br />
24 AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
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COSTIÈRES DE NÎMES, LUBERON,<br />
VENTOUX – THREE WINE REGIONS<br />
WITH A DIFFERENCE<br />
BY FLORIAN GLEMOT DIPWSET<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS:<br />
COURTESY OF THE ESTATES<br />
Located in the southern Rhone, the Costières de Nîmes, Luberon and Ventoux<br />
appellations share an ancient tradition of winegrowing that dates back to<br />
Antiquity. Situated within wildlife sanctuaries where conservation of biodiversity<br />
is key, they offer visitors both spectacular scenery and a distinctly Mediterranean,<br />
laid-back lifestyle, all of which is generously encapsulated in their wines. We have<br />
selected six wineries that stand out for the quality of their wines in order to turn<br />
the spotlight on the common traits between the three appellations, but also what<br />
makes them unique.<br />
SET BETWEEN THE LAVENDER AND THE PINE GROVES, THE VINEYARDS AT DOMAINE DE TARA BASK IN A VERY SUNNY PROVENCAL CLIMATE<br />
26 AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
RHÔNE VALLEY<br />
IDENTITY<br />
DOMAINE MOURGUES DU GRÈS HAS CREATED A FUN TOUR OF THE VINEYARDS SO THAT VISITORS CAN GET A BETTER UNDERSTANDING OF ITS HISTORY<br />
AND DIVERSITY<br />
T<br />
he Southern Rhone is internationally renowned for its full-bodied, generous, predominately<br />
Grenache noir-based red wines. Their flagship is without doubt Châteauneuf-du-<br />
Pape, with numerous other Rhone appellations in its wake. These include the most southerly<br />
of them all, Costières de Nîmes, which forms a bridge between the Provence side of the<br />
Rhone and Languedoc. The Luberon, flirting with northern Provence, stands out for its<br />
predominant share of fresh, delicate rosés whilst Ventoux, the most northern of the three<br />
appellations, produces twice the amount of wines as the first two. The three appellations<br />
bask, broadly speaking, in a Mediterranean climate, often buffeted by the dry and relatively<br />
cool Mistral wind, a welcome ally for combatting fungal diseases. At the same time, they are<br />
also home to specific micro-climates, from which stem some of their unique characteristics.<br />
Washed down by the Rhone from the Alps and the Massif Central during the Ice Age, the<br />
pebbles typical of the appellations lining the river allow the soil to store heat, promoting<br />
berry ripening. The pebbles, which are an iconic feature of the Rhone Valley, also provide<br />
drainage and help retain moisture deep in the subsoil, which is generally clay-limestone.<br />
This simplistic description, however, fails to do justice to the immense variety of soil types<br />
and textures, exposures and altitudes, formed by the countless geological upheavals that<br />
have shaped the landscape of the Rhone Valley. This undoubtedly diversifies the style of the<br />
wines. One last point is that, although the three appellations are geographically close, they<br />
each come with their own history and culture. From Provence to Languedoc and the Alpine<br />
foothills to the Mediterranean, this climatic, geological and cultural diversity has led each<br />
wine region to develop in a different way, mirroring their respective wine styles.<br />
AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
27
ROMAIN AND HIS PARENTS ANNE AND<br />
FRANÇOIS COLLARD, WINEGROWERS<br />
AT CHÂTEAU MOURGUES DU GRÈS<br />
COSTIÈRES DE NÎMES:<br />
THE MOST SOUTHERLY APPELLATION<br />
Bordering the Rhone, between the garrigue and the Camargue, Costières de Nîmes<br />
is located at the very South of the Rhone wine region, just a few dozen kilometres<br />
from the Mediterranean Sea. This location lends it a marked maritime influence<br />
which makes it unique. “The rocky foothills and garrigue of the Cevennes just North<br />
heat up very quickly in summer, creating daily air convection which produces a<br />
sustained sea breeze on days when it is not outweighed by the Mistral”, explains<br />
François Collard, the winegrower at Château Mourgues du Grès. The result is an<br />
extremely windy appellation, providing natural ventilation for the vineyards and<br />
thus limiting the need for anti-fungal treatments. Consequently, the region is in<br />
the forefront of organic winegrowing. Château Mourgues du Grès is located just<br />
5 kilometres from the Rhone, so quite naturally the soils are strewn with pebbles.<br />
François Collard explains further: “Pebbles provide great drainage and protect the<br />
more clayey sub-soils from evaporation. They form a reservoir that the vines can<br />
tap into, thereby making them more resilient during heat waves”. The 70-hectare<br />
vineyard, which has been certified biodynamic since 2019, is mainly located on a<br />
plateau clad with pebbles, but also has marl soils that provide good water reserves<br />
on the northern side of the plateau, and drier limestone soils on its southern side.<br />
This variety of soils paves the way for an impressive range of blend-worthy wines,<br />
which is crucial for crafting the end wines. Like most of the Southern Rhone,<br />
Costières de Nîmes is traditionally an appellation based on blending. “The soils also<br />
partly comprise fine earth stemming from pedogenesis, which are rich in mineral<br />
28 AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
CAVE DE PAZAC, BETWEEN THE<br />
RHONE AND THE CEVENNES<br />
elements and promote remarkable minerality and freshness in our wines, particularly<br />
the whites”. Château Mourgues du Grès’ white wines account for a quarter of<br />
total production. The white Capitelle label is blended from old-vine Grenache blanc<br />
grown on limestone soils, with a dash of Roussanne and Viognier. Fermented with<br />
wild yeast and matured for a year in demi-muids, it delivers intense minerality,<br />
supported by gorgeous fruit and generous oak influence.<br />
A little farther North, between the garrigue and the Rhone, the Cave de Pazac is a<br />
unique co-operative winery. It groups together 9 winegrowers farming 280 ha of<br />
vines that have been certified HVE since 2020. Jean-Louis Boyer, its director, admits<br />
that he feels closer to Provencal traditions and culture than to those of Languedoc.<br />
Although the winery is located between the two Mediterranean appellations, “the<br />
traditional local language is Provençal, and we are only a few kilometres away<br />
from the Rhone. We are a full-fledged Rhone appellation”. Once again, the relative<br />
freshness of the wines comes as a surprise. The explanation lies in the Mistral<br />
wind and the maritime influence which help cool night time temperatures, thereby<br />
creating significant diurnal shift. This in turn enhances expression in the Syrah,<br />
which accounts for over half of the winery’s different blends. The Le Pigeonnier<br />
Rouge label illustrates the appellation’s marketing success. With a production run<br />
in excess of 100,000 bottles a year, it displays intense fruitiness and a full, generous<br />
mouthfeel. Of all the Rhone Valley appellations, Costières de Nîmes posted<br />
the highest increase in exports in 2021. More than 40% of its wines are shipped<br />
overseas, with Belgium, the United Kingdom, China and the United States their<br />
prime export destinations.<br />
AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
29
RHÔNE VALLEY<br />
IDENTITY<br />
LUBERON, BETWEEN THE RHONE<br />
AND PROVENCE<br />
THE MANY GEOLOGICAL FRACTURES ACROSS THE VINEYARDS OF CHÂTEAU ISOLETTE<br />
HAVE CREATED A SIGNIFICANT RANGE OF VINEYARD SITES WHICH ARE ESSENTIAL FOR<br />
FULLY EXPRESSING THE ART OF BLENDING PRIZED BY RHONE APPELLATIONS<br />
OLIVIER ROUQUET MATURES HIS SYRAH FOR OVER 18 MONTHS IN USED CASKS IN ORDER<br />
TO SLOWLY OXYGENATE THEM WITHOUT CONCEALING THEIR FULL FINESSE WITH OVERLY<br />
OAKED WOOD AROMAS<br />
Set in the heart of a national park, the Luberon<br />
wine region extends over the northern and<br />
southern slopes of its namesake hill range.<br />
Olivier Rouquet, who manages Château Isolette<br />
located on the northern slope, explains that<br />
the Luberon is actually home to two different<br />
areas with very different weather patterns: “The<br />
southern slopes, where the vineyards stretch<br />
down as far as the river Durance, has a much<br />
more marked Mediterranean influence, with<br />
higher temperatures both by day and night. In<br />
the northern part of the Luberon, the Mistral<br />
wind does not blow as strongly but the vineyards<br />
benefit more from the nightly downward flow of<br />
cool air from the Alps. This creates a significant<br />
diurnal shift that can reach 15 to 20°C. The cool<br />
nights help preserve acidity and slow down the<br />
ripening process of the grapes, so that budburst<br />
and harvesting occur two weeks later than on<br />
the plains”. The vineyards at Château Isolette<br />
cover 45 hectares surrounded by 200 hectares of<br />
woodland. They range between elevations of 300<br />
to 400 metres, thus benefiting from cool temperatures<br />
that are dialled up due to the local topography.<br />
The Luberon wine region is dotted with<br />
myriad vineyard blocks, very often surrounded<br />
by forests. This sets the scene for highly developed<br />
natural biodiversity. Some blocks at<br />
Château Isolette are located lower down, along<br />
the banks of the river Calavon, which marks the<br />
border with AOC Ventoux country. The soils here<br />
are comprised of marl, which is more fertile<br />
than on the hillsides. They generally deliver<br />
supple wines, due to the nature of the soils and<br />
higher yields. On the northern foothills of the<br />
Luberon, the vineyards are mainly North-facing,<br />
at elevations of up to 400 metres. These<br />
poor soils contain stony scree. Rouquet has a<br />
categorical definition of the estate’s terroir,<br />
claiming it is more akin to the Northern than<br />
to the Southern Rhone. “Syrah thrives on these<br />
soils and develops characteristics on a par with<br />
those of the prestigious appellations located<br />
30 AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
OLIVIER ROUQUET,<br />
THE MANAGER OF<br />
CHÂTEAU ISOLETTE<br />
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THE DELAY FAMILY WITH<br />
THE MONT VENTOUX<br />
IN THE BACKGROUND<br />
around Tain l’Hermitage. Tension, aromatic concentration and a fine tannin<br />
structure provide all the requisite ingredients for crafting fine wines from the<br />
varietal”. Every step is taken to ensure the grapes are processed properly and<br />
protected in the vineyard and the winery, from night time harvesting to the use<br />
of small tippers filled with inert dry ice. The maturation process is similarly<br />
meticulous so that the reductive side of Syrah can be enhanced, with the wines<br />
matured in used French oak barrels and demi-muids. Ageing lasts from 18 to<br />
36 months depending on the wine. The aim is to promote slow, progressive<br />
micro-oxygenation, with very little wood. Château Isolette’s flagship Bohème<br />
label is complemented by a dash of Grenache to ensure compliance with the<br />
appellation’s blending rules, but Olivier Rouquet says, “If the AOC allowed me<br />
to do so, I would produce magnificent single varietal Syrahs”.<br />
VENTOUX AND ITS MOUNTAIN INFLUENCE<br />
Forming a semi-circle South of the legendary Mont Ventoux, which peaks<br />
at 1,912 metres, the Ventoux wine region extends over 5,600 hectares, which<br />
is more than Costières de Nîmes and the Luberon combined. Ventoux also<br />
gets a generous amount of sunshine, and like Costières de Nîmes, it is also<br />
buffeted by the strong Mistral wind. The hilliest north-western area comes<br />
under the influence of Mont Ventoux, its cool mountain air rushing down the<br />
slopes by night. Domaine du Bon Remède, located in the foothills of Mont<br />
Ventoux, benefits from cool nights where temperatures can plummet to around<br />
15°C in the summer, despite day time temperatures effortlessly exceeding<br />
30°C. Vincent Delay, the estate’s fourth-generation winegrower who recently<br />
graduated in oenology, explains the variety of vineyard soils that form his 35-ha<br />
vineyard: “The sandy soils produce finesse in our whites and rosés, while the<br />
heavier clay and pebble-strewn soils instil power and concentration in our<br />
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PATRICIA AND JOËL JACQUET<br />
CRAFT AUTHENTIC WINES THAT<br />
HAVE BECOME AMBASSADORS<br />
FOR THEIR VINEYARD SITES AT<br />
THE FOOT OF MONT VENTOUX<br />
FARMED BIODYNAMICALLY<br />
SINCE 2008, DOMAINE DU<br />
GRAND JACQUET’S OLD VINES<br />
ARE A MIRROR TO THEIR<br />
TERROIR<br />
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RHÔNE VALLEY<br />
IDENTITY<br />
FRUIT IS PICKED LATE AT DOMAINE DE TARA TO PRODUCE THE MI-FIGUE MI-RAISIN<br />
LABEL, A GORGEOUS ILLUSTRATION OF ITS VINEYARD SITES<br />
reds”. The Secret de Vincent label, made from<br />
Syrah with a hint of Grenache, comes from 40<br />
to 50-year-old vines grown on pebble soils. It<br />
combines generous fruit with more complex<br />
mineral and garrigue notes. Its mouth-filling<br />
volume and finely defined tannins make it a<br />
superlative wine that will benefit from several<br />
years’ maturation to fully reveal its potential.<br />
Just a few kilometres away, Domaine du Grand<br />
Jacquet is a 15-hectare vineyard located on<br />
hillsides at elevations ranging from 250 to<br />
400 metres. Grenache noir takes centre stage at<br />
this family estate, which has been run based on<br />
the premise of biodynamic winegrowing since<br />
2008. “Syrah, which is more fragile, sometimes<br />
struggles to thrive on these stony soils, which<br />
are frequently buffeted by the strong Mistral<br />
wind. It is usually planted on sheltered plots<br />
farther down”, explains Joël Jacquet, who has<br />
been farming vines here since 1982. The red Les<br />
Planètes label, with its generous aromatics, its<br />
smooth, velvety palate and clear site-expressiveness,<br />
proved to be very convincing. The<br />
Grenache noir grapes, which make up 90% of the<br />
blend, come from a block of 45-year-old vines<br />
located at an altitude of 300 metres, on clay and<br />
gravel soils. Its deep roots make it extremely<br />
drought-resistant. The cooler, windier conditions<br />
than on the plains yield concentrated<br />
grapes with thick, light skins. The tannins are<br />
very supple and adding Syrah gives the wine the<br />
colour it lacks. Patricia and Joël Jacquet produce<br />
authentic, generous, balanced wines with a<br />
distinctive southern identity.<br />
Farther South, near the Luberon, Domaine de<br />
Tara has 12 hectares of ochre soil, which is rich<br />
in nutrients and iron, in some of its vineyards.<br />
The estate is located in the village of Roussillon,<br />
once known as the ‘Village of Ochre’ when its<br />
ochre soil was exported to the Nordic countries<br />
to combat saltpetre. As a nod to the area’s<br />
history, Michèle and Patrick Folléa have named<br />
one of their ranges Terre d’Ocres. The vineyard<br />
soils lend finesse and delicacy to the wines in the<br />
range, which are designed for early-drinking.<br />
The rolling landscape is also home to some great<br />
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RHÔNE VALLEY<br />
IDENTITY<br />
clay-limestone hillside vineyards. The estate produces a high proportion of<br />
white wine compared to the rest of the appellation, with around 30% of its<br />
output white. Hautes Pierres, a blend of Roussanne and Grenache blanc, shows<br />
great finesse. The food-friendly white is fermented and matured in oak barrels<br />
with batonnage for several months, which gives it superb weight and complex,<br />
persistent aromas that are impeccably balanced by profound freshness.<br />
A DYNAMIC TRIO WITH DIFFERING CHARACTERS<br />
The Rhone is an extensive wine region which cannot easily be defined due to<br />
its multi-faceted make-up, each area displaying its own character. So defining<br />
what makes Costières de Nîmes, Ventoux and Luberon Rhone appellations<br />
THE FOLLÉA FAMILY IS AT THE HELM OF DOMAINE DE TARA<br />
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CHÂTEAU ISOLETTE IS LOCATED<br />
IN MAGNIFICENT COUNTRYSIDE<br />
WITH A DISTINCTIVE<br />
MEDITERRANEAN FEEL<br />
may seem complex. The proximity of the Rhone and pebble-strewn vineyard sites<br />
dotted in many parts of Costières de Nîmes give it a fairly obvious Rhone identity.<br />
However, the occurrence of garrigue in the North-East, akin to the scrubland found<br />
in Languedoc, and the clear influence of the Mediterranean Sea on the appellation’s<br />
weather patterns, argue in favour of a unique Mediterranean identity, forming a<br />
bridge between Languedoc and Provence.<br />
The Luberon, which is farther away from the Rhone and where the influence is<br />
more Alpine, does not seem to have a clear link to the Southern Rhone, except<br />
culturally through the way the industry is organised around co-operatives and its<br />
varietal range. Its lifestyle and culture are nevertheless distinctively Provencal, with<br />
rosé production accounting for over 50% of appellation output, following in the<br />
footsteps of neighbouring Provence. Despite this, the Luberon is multifaceted and,<br />
as evidenced by our testimonials, high-elevation stony vineyard sites on the northern<br />
slopes of the hills around Château Isolette produce extremely attractive Syrahs, in<br />
the same vein as wines from the southern reaches of the Northern Rhone.<br />
Lastly, the Ventoux and its broad rolling plains has plenty of convincing arguments<br />
too. Its microclimate combines good air flow and significant diurnal shift to<br />
promote the emergence of fresh wines. There are many similarities with the more<br />
central southern Rhone, clearly lending it a Rhone identity. Nevertheless, its wines<br />
are often fresher than those of the Côtes du Rhône. Freshness is a common denominator<br />
across the three appellations, but for different reasons, ranging from maritime<br />
and alpine influence to elevation and exposure, soils and sub-soils.<br />
Ultimately, the last noteworthy shared feature is the characteristic drive which fuels<br />
all three appellations, giving them good potential to continue to move upmarket.<br />
Less expensive than their more prestigious neighbours, the wines crafted by talented<br />
producers in these appellations, like those featured here, offer excellent value for<br />
money and deserve to be discovered without further ado!<br />
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MUSCADET,<br />
FROM EVOLUTION<br />
TO REVOLUTION!<br />
BY JEAN-PAUL BURIAS<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS:<br />
COURTESY OF THE ESTATES<br />
With just a single grape variety planted over 8,000 hectares and producing only<br />
dry white wines, a cursory look at Muscadet might imply something simple. But<br />
the minute you taste the wines, suddenly the horizon opens up to complex terroirdriven<br />
offerings, underpinned by recognition of village-designated growths<br />
in 2011. The endorsement points to the quality of the wines, which should most<br />
certainly be on your to-try list.<br />
CHÂTEAU DE LA PREUILLE IS A BENCHMARK ESTATE IN MUSCADET<br />
LÉGENDES<br />
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MUSCADET<br />
VINEYARDS<br />
CHÂTEAU DE LA PREUILLE<br />
With the waves of the Atlantic Ocean breaking<br />
within earshot and the banks of the Loire<br />
lining France’s longest river nearby, the birthplace<br />
of Muscadet ushers in the city of Nantes and its<br />
storied castle of the Dukes of Brittany. The location<br />
enhances wines whose true worth deserves to be<br />
fully recognised. Long maligned for the quality of<br />
its wines, the local wine industry has grasped the<br />
nettle and begun to claw the market back. With<br />
sales on the rise and improved price points, the<br />
appellation is regaining its market status. With a<br />
vineyard footprint of 8,000 hectares – which has<br />
declined in recent years – the appellation has held<br />
on to its ranking as France’s leading single-variety<br />
wine region. It is also the only appellation in the<br />
world made from Melon de Bourgogne, and has<br />
optimised its production potential, which boasts<br />
astounding variety. The defining traits of Muscadet-Sèvre-et-Maine<br />
sur Lie are its freshness,<br />
finesse, aromas and mineral notes. The wines can<br />
be enjoyed when young, but also show good ageability.<br />
Caught up in this virtuous circle, they have<br />
been given a whole new lease of life. Aromatic,<br />
accessible and supple, they have become a magnet<br />
for new, young urban consumers.<br />
CHRISTIAN DUMORTIER IN HIS VINEYARDS AT CHÂTEAU DE LA PREUILLE<br />
After many years spent restructuring the<br />
vineyards in the early 2000s, growers were<br />
rewarded from 2011 onwards with official recognition<br />
for ten village-designated growths made<br />
to extremely stringent production standards –<br />
this paved the way for a resurgence across the<br />
region. The ten complementary geographical<br />
designations sit at the top of the Muscadet<br />
pyramid and the Nantes wine federation has<br />
deftly defined them in a single word: Clisson,<br />
power; Gorges, length; Le Pallet, lushness;<br />
Goulaine, harmony; Château-Thébaud, finesse;<br />
Monnières-Saint-Fiacre, fleshiness; Mouzillon-Tillières,<br />
complexity; La Haye-Fouassière,<br />
elegance; Vallet, richness; and Champtoceaux,<br />
silkiness. Each one offers complexity and ageability,<br />
stemming from extended lees maturation,<br />
low yields and the site-expressiveness of<br />
prime, varied vineyards. Long disparaged and<br />
pigeonholed as inferior, quick-drinking wines for<br />
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TIME FOR CHRISTIAN<br />
DUMORTIER TO TASTE<br />
WINES AT CHÂTEAU<br />
DE LA PREUILLE<br />
pairing with oysters – which may well be remarkable but is also simplistic – the<br />
appellation now has its sights clearly set on the future, with characterful wines<br />
packed with freshness.<br />
CHÂTEAU DE LA PREUILLE:<br />
A GREAT INSTITUTION<br />
Behind the superb feudal castle lie vineyards designed for excellence. Philippe<br />
and his brother Christian Dumortier, the eleventh generation of a family of winegrowers,<br />
fully embody the flavour of Muscadet. The name Preuille stems from<br />
the Latin petra or petrosus which means a stony, rocky place. The vineyard boasts<br />
outstanding granite soils that lend the wines their hallmark stamp, now incorporated<br />
into the appellation’s ten village-designated growths. “Since 1986, our aim<br />
has been to showcase the superior qualities of the grape varieties in the Nantes<br />
wine region – Melon de Bourgogne for Muscadet and Folle Blanche for Gros-Plantdu-Pays-Nantais”,<br />
explains Christian Dumortier. “Our different labels sell for very<br />
affordable prices, well below their level of quality”. Tête de Cuvée, for example,<br />
displays all the defining features of a top dry white wine, but at a fraction of the<br />
price of neighbouring appellations. “The vineyards hived off for the label are located<br />
on hillsides with outstanding sub-soils of porphyroid granite with two micas from<br />
Clisson”, says Dumortier. “Combined with old vines, these soils deliver low yields<br />
of around 30 hectolitres, but in return produce wines with lots of concentration”.<br />
The nose is subtle and encapsulates the Melon de Bourgogne variety. In the glass,<br />
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MUSCADET<br />
VINEYARDS<br />
the wine is a bright, golden colour then displays full body, complexity and length<br />
on the palate. This typicity is promoted by the fermentation process, which uses<br />
a very varied array of wild ferments naturally occurring on the grapes and not<br />
industrial yeasts. This highly expressive wine, whose incredible ageability is one<br />
of its defining features, can be found on the finest tables.<br />
VIGNOBLES VÉRONIQUE<br />
GÜNTHER-CHÉREAU:<br />
THE WINNING DUO<br />
Hard work, the drive for quality and family spirit are virtues that have been<br />
perpetuated for several generations on this renowned estate. Véronique Günther-<br />
Chéreau took over from her father in 1989 and was joined by her daughter Aurore,<br />
a trained winemaker. This efficient duo manages a 75-hectare vineyard that has<br />
been partly converted to organic winegrowing, across three estates recognised<br />
as village-designated growths – Château de la Gravelle in Gorges, Château du<br />
TANK CLEANING DUTY FOR AURORE GÜNTHER<br />
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MUSCADET<br />
VINEYARDS<br />
Coing in Saint-Fiacre-sur-Maine and Grand Fief<br />
de la Cormeraie in Monnières. “Wines showing<br />
minerality and freshness are experiencing a real<br />
resurgence”, comments Aurore Günther. “We<br />
are fortunate that the Muscadet brand is known<br />
worldwide and is associated with quality”. The<br />
mineral, floral, light wines offering good value for<br />
money compared with other French regions have<br />
fuelled export growth. “Melon de Bourgogne is<br />
the only grape variety that can be used to produce<br />
Muscadet, from primeur wines to village-designated<br />
labels, and this is a strength”, says Véronique<br />
Günther-Chéreau. “Different terroirs<br />
produce different white wines depending on the<br />
soil where the vines are grown. The wines pair well<br />
with light foods and they have everything it takes<br />
to grow in export markets. Customers are looking<br />
for a wine with guaranteed supply, no unreasonable<br />
price hikes or inventory issues that offer real<br />
consistency of quality”.<br />
CHÂTEAU DU COING NESTLED AMONG THE VINES<br />
PIERRICK AND LANDRY PÉNISSON AT DOMAINE DES ILES<br />
DOMAINE DES ILES: BUILDING<br />
ON CLISSON’S LEGACY<br />
Among the 10 village-designated Muscadet<br />
growths, Clisson is one of the appellation’s<br />
high-end names, covering 250 hectares and five<br />
villages. Ideally located south of the Loire estuary,<br />
Domaine des Iles is the perfect emblem for this<br />
increasingly popular growth. Established by Pierre<br />
Pénisson in 1985 on a small site covering a diminutive<br />
0.50 hectares, it then benefited from the<br />
arrival of his two sons Pierrick and Landry after<br />
they studied viticulture in 2001. Now a family<br />
business with 7 full-time farm workers and<br />
seasonal workers, the estate has grown significantly<br />
over the years to its present-day footprint<br />
of 170 hectares. “Since 2003, we have been<br />
using sustainable techniques so that we can treat<br />
the environment with even greater respect and<br />
produce the highest quality”, says Pierre Pénisson.<br />
“Clisson dovetails perfectly with this approach.<br />
The selected vineyard sites produce light, fruity<br />
and aromatic wines”.<br />
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MUSCADET<br />
VINEYARDS<br />
CHÂTEAU DE L’EPINAY:<br />
GREAT CONSISTENCY<br />
Château de l’Epinay is located near beautiful leafy river banks and Saint-Fiacre-sur-<br />
Maine, the French village which has the highest ratio of vineyards to total acreage.<br />
Damien Robert began operating this family estate with his father in 1986 when he<br />
made a pledge to show respect for the environment by using earth-friendly, sustainable<br />
practices. His 23 hectares of vines, entirely destined for growing Muscadet,<br />
produce real gems sporting a pale gold hue and an appealing nose showing fresh<br />
fruit aromas, which deliver the characters of a very distinctive terroir on the palate.<br />
“My priority is to preserve my working environment by farming the vineyards<br />
sustainably”, he explains. “I try and balance my economic objectives and the<br />
expectations of my customers in terms of quality with respect for the environment”.<br />
Damien Robert follows this mantra religiously and welcomed recognition<br />
of Monnières-Saint-Fiacre as a village-designated growth. His estate lies within<br />
its boundaries. “It’s a real advantage for the estate and a quality endorsement for<br />
customers”, he says. “Consumers are more inclined to come and taste our wines”.<br />
DAMIEN ROBERT, OWNER OF CHÂTEAU DE L’EPINAY<br />
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MUSCADET<br />
VINEYARDS<br />
DOMAINE DU HAUT FRESNE:<br />
ENTER CHAMPTOCEAUX<br />
PASCAL RENOU AND HIS BROTHER JEAN-LUC WITH HIS SON JÉRÔME<br />
AT DOMAINE DU HAUT FRESNE<br />
On sloping hillsides along the Loire, the<br />
vineyards of Domaine du Haut Fresne are rooted<br />
in schist and gneiss which lend the wines freshness<br />
and minerality. They bask in a temperate<br />
climate, which is both sunnier and less windy<br />
than in Brittany with its Atlantic influence.<br />
Founded in 1959 by Michel Renou, the estate was<br />
taken over by two of his sons, Jean-Luc in 1984<br />
and Pascal in 1991, before Jérôme, Jean-Luc’s son,<br />
took over in 2008. The 86 hectares under vine<br />
have been certified High Environmental Value<br />
(HVE) since 2020. “We produce fruity wines, with<br />
good consistency from one year to the next and<br />
an affordable price tag of between €4 and €10”,<br />
he explains. “It is true that Muscadet is not very<br />
popular in France, with vineyard acreage and<br />
production declining, but we should welcome<br />
the arrival of a new generation of winegrowers in<br />
the Coteaux de Loire area who are perpetuating<br />
traditions”. The estate’s range of 17 wines, spanning<br />
10 appellations, is extremely palate-pleasing<br />
and will be further extended following recognition<br />
of the Champtoceaux growth. This is the<br />
only Muscadet Coteaux de la Loire growth and it<br />
allows the wines to masterfully move upmarket<br />
and provide customers with a real showstopper.<br />
The 2017 vintage, currently commercially available,<br />
was matured for 48 months in tanks.<br />
JÉRÔME AND PASCAL RENOU WITH THE BARRELS AT DOMAINE DU HAUT FRESNE<br />
DOMAINE CLAUDE MICHEL<br />
PICHON: BORN INTO WINE<br />
Now a model for the appellation, Claude-Michel<br />
Pichon boasts a long-standing career in wine.<br />
After starting out as a cellar master and buyer<br />
for a trading company, he succeeded his father<br />
Raymond in 2009 at the helm of Château La<br />
Chevillardière and its 88 hectares of vines. He<br />
expanded the estate by buying up vineyards that<br />
had been mothballed due to lack of newcomers to<br />
take them over, and by planting new vines. “Our<br />
whites show distinctively fresh mineral notes and<br />
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CLAUDE MICHEL PICHON<br />
BORDEAUX<br />
TRAVEL<br />
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DOMAINE<br />
CLAUDE MICHEL PICHON<br />
real typicity, like those of Château de La Chevillardière, which grow on granite and<br />
mica schist soils”, he says. “Muscadet needs to be better known and although we don’t<br />
yet produce village-designated growths, there is no denying that the recognition is<br />
genuinely meaningful for the public who is not necessarily familiar with our wines”.<br />
DRILLING DOWN INTO TERROIR<br />
The image of Muscadet has long been understated, which has had consequences in<br />
terms of quality. The work carried out over the last few years, however, both in winery<br />
management and product marketing and promotion has helped reverse the trend. Many<br />
estates have been restructured, which has clearly dialled up the quality of the wines –<br />
their excellent value for money is also undeniable. Muscadet has carved out a place for<br />
itself as a genuine terroir-driven wine, showing unmistakable honesty. Though ideal as<br />
an aperitif, it is also a great classic with seafood and pairing partner for white meats and<br />
some cheeses. Ironically, the low price points of some producers have done it a disservice,<br />
leading consumers to wrongly associate it with an entry-level wine. The village-designated<br />
growths are helping to reverse this downward spiral and put an end to misconceptions,<br />
so that Muscadet can be placed on a par with other fine white wines. “The advent<br />
of the growths and enormous amount of work that has gone into recognising the local<br />
terroir have bolstered the reputation of Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur Lie”, feels Véronique<br />
Günther-Chéreau, owner of the namesake vineyards. “It is no longer considered<br />
as a simple bar wine but one suitable for gourmet food. It has established its pedigree,<br />
although in my opinion, there is still a lack of awareness of Muscadet in France, outside<br />
its home region”. Muscadet is multi-faceted and promoting its variety can only be viewed<br />
positively. Entry-level labels thrive alongside gourmet-food and age-worthy bottlings,<br />
along with the more recent village-designated growths. These have brought a real breath<br />
of fresh air to the wine proposition as trends favour dry, delicate, lower-alcohol, refreshing<br />
white wines which have all the requisite qualities to appeal to new consumers.<br />
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FRANCIACORTA, THE SYMBOL<br />
OF ITALIAN TRADITIONAL<br />
METHOD SPARKLING WINE<br />
BY FRANCESCO SAVERIO RUSSO<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF THE<br />
ESTATES, © MATTIA AQUILA,<br />
© GIUSEPPE LA SPADA<br />
After becoming a DOC in 1967, then securing the highly coveted DOCG<br />
endorsement in 1997, Franciacorta has gone from strength to strength. We drill<br />
down on what makes it so unique, and the producers behind this highly soughtafter<br />
traditional method sparkling wine.<br />
THE MAJESTIC 19 TH -CENTURY CASTLE IN COCCAGLIO HAD BEEN OWNED BY THE BONOMI FAMILY SINCE 1910<br />
AND BECAME PART OF THE CASA PALADIN GROUP IN 2008<br />
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ITALY<br />
APPELLATION<br />
T<br />
he historic Italian wine region of Franciacorta is located in the heart of Lombardy, near the city of<br />
Milan. Situated on the shores of Lake Iseo, it covers some 200 square kilometres and encompasses<br />
19 localities in the Province of Brescia. The name Franciacorta is probably linked to the arrival of the<br />
Cluniac monks and their ‘Francae Curtes’, meaning an area with no taxes on trade. The region, which<br />
is mostly hilly, was formed by glaciers retreating over 10,000 years ago, creating the Sebino Morainic<br />
Amphitheatre which is home to the vineyards of Franciacorta. The area’s recent history began in 1961<br />
with the production of the first sparkling wine using the traditional method. In 1967, it became the<br />
first Italian sparkling wine to be awarded DOC certification. Thanks to the work of the consortium<br />
(established in 1990) it obtained DOCG certification in 1995. The consortium also pushed for the area<br />
to be divided into zones. This was achieved with the support of the Agricultural University of Milan,<br />
thereby making it possible to identify micro-areas with different soils and climates which are suitable<br />
for different grape varieties. The present-day area is home to approximately 2,800 hectares of Franciacorta<br />
DOCG vineyards planted with 82% Chardonnay, 14% Pinot Noir and 4% Pinot Blanc.<br />
According to regulations, Franciacorta can only be produced from Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot<br />
Blanc grapes (to a maximum of 50%). In 2017, the use of the Erbamat grape variety was also permitted.<br />
This indigenous variety is very useful for giving the wines acidity, thereby countering the effects of<br />
climate change. Yields may not exceed 100 quintals/ha and the harvest must be carried out by hand.<br />
The Franciacorta designation in fact covers different styles:<br />
- Franciacorta NV, which has to age for at least 18 months on the lees;<br />
- Franciacorta Satèn and Franciacorta Rosé NV, which have to age for at least 24 months on the lees;<br />
- Franciacorta Vintage, Franciacorta Satèn Vintage and Franciacorta Rosé Vintage, which have to age<br />
for at least 30 months on the lees;<br />
- Franciacorta Riserva, Franciacorta Riserva Satèn and Franciacorta Riserva Rosé, which have to age<br />
for at least 60 months on the lees.<br />
Satèn is a particular style that can only be made from Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc grapes (to a<br />
maximum of 50%). It is only allowed to have 4.5 atmospheres of pressure which makes it ‘silky’.<br />
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ITALY<br />
APPELLATION<br />
Franciacorta can be made to different levels of<br />
sweetness: Zero Dosage, Extra Brut, Brut, Extra<br />
Dry, Sec or Dry, Demi-Sec.<br />
Today, the name Franciacorta is synonymous with<br />
the area, the production method and the wine itself,<br />
so much so that a European law prohibits the use of<br />
the word ‘Spumante’ (meaning ‘sparkling wine’) to<br />
describe it, just as with Champagne.<br />
Below is a selection of the leading Franciacorta<br />
producers.<br />
THE UNFORGETTABLE WINEMAKER FRANCO ZILIANI AND THE FIRST BOTTLE OF PINOT<br />
DI FRANCIACORTA VINTAGE 1961<br />
THE CHARMING CASTELLO VINEYARD, ONE HECTARE OF ORGANIC VINES ON THE SLOPES<br />
OF THE MEDIEVAL MANOR OF BORGONATO<br />
BERLUCCHI<br />
The history of Franciacorta began with the story of<br />
Guido Berlucchi, who created the area’s first traditional<br />
method wine in 1961. In 1955, Guido Berlucchi<br />
called the very young winemaker Franco Ziliani for<br />
advice on how to improve his small production of<br />
white wine. Ziliani met Guido, tasted his wine and<br />
had the idea of producing sparkling wine. It was<br />
his dream to produce an Italian wine using the<br />
traditional method and he achieved this in 1961.<br />
Ziliani was also ahead of the curve in his choice of<br />
name: ‘Pinot di Franciacorta’, to emphasise the link<br />
between the wine and the land. This ‘start-up’ paved<br />
the way for all subsequent companies.<br />
In 2021, the Berlucchi company turned 60, coinciding<br />
with the number of years that have passed since that<br />
first bottle of Franciacorta. Today, Franco Ziliani’s<br />
children share the workload in the company they<br />
have owned since 2017. Cristina handles marketing<br />
and hospitality, Arturo is winemaker and managing<br />
director and Paolo is tasked with sales and exports.<br />
This important company remains family-run and<br />
faithful to its original values, focusing on producing<br />
the highest quality but also displaying a strong awareness<br />
of the modern requirements for sustainability.<br />
Berlucchi produces wine from approximately<br />
550 hectares of vineyards, 115 of them owned by the<br />
family and the remainder managed by winegrowing<br />
partners. The grapes are divided between around<br />
85% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Noir.<br />
The company produces 4 Franciacorta lines:<br />
- Cuvée Imperiale - Berlucchi’s historic and versatile<br />
range, with 6 Franciacorta labels covering<br />
almost all styles: Demi-sec, Brut, Rosé, Saten, Zero<br />
Dosage and Vintage.<br />
- ‘61 Numero Primo - non-vintage Franciacorta, in<br />
the Extra Brut, Saten and Rosé styles, aged for two<br />
48 AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
FRANCO ZILIANI’S THREE<br />
CHILDREN, CRISTINA,<br />
ARTURO AND PAOLO ARE<br />
THE DRIVING FORCE BEHIND<br />
BERLUCCHI’S SHIFT TO<br />
SUSTAINABILITY<br />
SPRING 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
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ITALY<br />
APPELLATION<br />
CA’ DEL BOSCO ARTS: THE WEIGHT OF TIME SUSPENDED BY STEFANO BOMBARDIERI<br />
years in the bottle; very balanced but not excessively<br />
complex.<br />
- 61 Nature - non-vintage Franciacorta, in the Brut<br />
Nature, Nature Blanc de Blancs and Nature Rosé<br />
styles. Matured for 5 years in the bottle on the lees.<br />
- Palazzo Lana Extrême - the Franciacorta Riserva<br />
aged for at least 10 years in the bottle on the lees.<br />
The Extrême version is 100% Pinot Noir with an<br />
Extra Brut level of sweetness. This line is the jewel<br />
in the company’s crown.<br />
Commercially, the main market continues to be<br />
within Italy, but the company is working successfully<br />
to make Franciacorta known in Northern Europe, the<br />
USA and Japan.<br />
CA’ DEL BOSCO<br />
MAURIZIO ZANELLA, THE FOUNDER AND PRESIDENT OF CA’ DEL BOSCO<br />
It was the mid-1960s when Annamaria Clementi<br />
Zanella bought a small country house in Erbusco<br />
surrounded by trees. A few years later, the foresight<br />
of her son Maurizio transformed that property<br />
into one of the most important wineries in Italy<br />
where nature fuses with art. For Maurizio Zanella,<br />
founder and president of Ca’ del Bosco, “Franciacorta<br />
is a unique territory. This small wine region<br />
was already known in the early 1800s, as recorded<br />
in the Napoleonic land registry, but it blossomed in<br />
the late 1960s. Over the years, a fixed set of principles<br />
have always been followed, aimed at achieving<br />
quality, and this has resulted in a unique and<br />
recognisable style”. There is a strong focus on sustainability<br />
as evidenced by the fact that «today a large<br />
number of the vineyards are certified organic”, as<br />
Zanella points out.<br />
As for the Ca’ del Bosco winery itself, the grape<br />
varieties grown over some 230 hectares of Franciacorta<br />
DOCG vineyards are 64.5% Chardonnay, 30.0%<br />
Pinot Noir, 5.0% Pinot Blanc and 0.5% Erbamat.<br />
The vineyards are managed in accordance with the<br />
principles and constraints dictated by the Lombardy<br />
Region’s Rural Development Plan and the organic<br />
certification scheme. This implies a complete ban<br />
on the use of dangerous substances with a high<br />
environmental impact – only organic fertilisation<br />
can be used; harmful insects must be controlled<br />
organically; soil management is based on permanent<br />
grassing with a focus on preserving natural<br />
soil fertility; and only agronomic techniques can be<br />
used for disease prevention.<br />
50 AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
STEFANO CAPELLI, THE WINEMAKER AT CA’ DEL BOSCO<br />
CA’ DEL BOSCO ARTS: WATER IN DRIPPING BY ZHENG LU<br />
In the cellar, nothing is left to chance and the winery has managed to strike the perfect balance<br />
between tradition and innovation. Many improvements have been introduced over the years such<br />
as the use of a special grape washing system and a corking machine that eliminates oxygen during<br />
disgorgement. Some of these pioneering designs have been patented by Ca’ del Bosco itself, in<br />
order to produce wines that are increasingly clean and expressive of their regional identity, whilst<br />
mirroring the company’s signature style.<br />
Production is divided into 8 Franciacorta labels: Cuvée Prestige Edition (extra brut), Cuvée Prestige<br />
Edition Rosé (extra brut), Vintage Collection Extra Brut, Vintage Collection Zero Dosage, Vintage<br />
Collection Satèn (brut), Vintage Collection Zero Dosage Noir, Annamaria Clementi (zero dosage)<br />
and Annamaria Clementi Rosé (extra brut).<br />
The company exports around 20% of its wines, primarily to the USA, Japan, Switzerland, Germany<br />
and the UK but it has a presence in more than 60 countries.<br />
CASA PALADIN – CASTELLO BONOMI<br />
The majestic castle, built in the 19 th century in Coccaglio at 275 metres above sea level, has been<br />
owned by the Bonomi family since 1910. It became part of the Paladin family’s ‘Casa Paladin’ group<br />
in 2008. Roberto and Carlo Paladin are at the helm of the company, which is committed to carrying<br />
on centuries-old winemaking traditions with the help of a highly experienced team of the calibre of<br />
Leonardo Valenti, lecturer at Milan State University, and Luigi Bersini, cellar master. Together, they<br />
produce wines using a modern approach while staying true to their roots and regional identity.<br />
The South-facing vineyards, on the slopes of Monte Orfano, grow on calcareous soils with rocky<br />
substrates. The climate and soil lend the wines richness, structure and complexity.<br />
Pinot Noir (30%), Erbamat (5%) and Chardonnay (60%) are grown, as well as some red grape varieties<br />
to make red wine.<br />
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ITALY<br />
APPELLATION<br />
SINCE 1962, THE PALADIN FAMILY HAS GROWN ITS VINEYARD ACREAGE BY ACQUIRING<br />
NEW PROPERTIES IN THE MOST SUITABLE ITALIAN REGIONS<br />
Castello Bonomi subscribes to a philosophy of<br />
lengthy bottle ageing.<br />
- Cuveè 22: 100% Chardonnay Franciacorta made<br />
from 22 different crus, which is aged in the bottle<br />
for 36 months;<br />
- Cru Perdu (70% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir):<br />
Castello Bonomi’s iconic Franciacorta, which<br />
comes from a ‘cru’ that was lost and then rediscovered.<br />
It is aged for over 72 months on the lees<br />
and for some vintages the Grand vintage is also<br />
available.<br />
- Franciacorta Saten (100% Chardonnay) - aged for<br />
over 50 months;<br />
- Franciacorta Rosè (100% Pinot Noir) - aged for over<br />
36 months on the lees;<br />
- Zero Dosage (50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot<br />
Noir) - aged for over 80 months on the lees;<br />
- Cuveè 1564 (40% Erbamat, 30% Chardonnay, 30%<br />
Pinot Noir);<br />
- Franciacorta Cuveè 22 Brut Nature (10% Erbamat,<br />
45% Chardonnay and 45% Pinot Noir).<br />
- Franciacorta Riserva ‘Lucrezia’: ‘Etichetta Bianca’<br />
70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir - aged for<br />
over 102 months on the lees; ‘Etichetta Nera’ 100%<br />
Chardonnay aged for between 170-220 months.<br />
Castello Bonomi’s target markets are the domestic<br />
market, but it also focuses on exports to Switzerland<br />
and Germany.<br />
UGO VEZZOLI<br />
UGO VEZZOLI’S FRANCIACORTA WINES ARE AGED ON THE LEES IN<br />
A TEMPERATURE-CONTROLLED ENVIRONMENT<br />
The Vezzoli family has been farming since the<br />
18th century, but the turning point came in the<br />
1980s when Gianlorenzo Vezzoli planted the first<br />
vineyards. Within a few years, he had created<br />
processing, ageing and office facilities in the rural<br />
area of the property. His son Ugo then joined him as<br />
co-owner, with help from Gianlorenzo’s wife Rosita<br />
and his other son Gian Battista. In recent years,<br />
with the involvement of grandsons Gian Lorenzo<br />
and Alessandro in marketing and operational tasks,<br />
the production of Franciacorta DOCG has increased<br />
to 30,000 bottles. Two different facilities for events<br />
and tastings have been created inside the family<br />
home which sits in grounds with centuries-old<br />
trees.<br />
The company owns approximately 5 hectares of<br />
vineyards which are divided between 3 hectares of<br />
Chardonnay Franciacorta DOCG, 0.6 hectares of<br />
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ITALY<br />
APPELLATION<br />
Pinot Noir Franciacorta DOCG and 0.4 hectares of<br />
Pinot Noir (to make red wine).<br />
The range is as follows:<br />
- The Satèn is made from 100% Chardonnay Franciacorta<br />
DOCG;<br />
- The Rosè is made from 100% Pinot Nero Franciacorta<br />
DOCG;<br />
- The Brut is made from 80% Chardonnay and 20%<br />
Pinot Noir fermented as white wine for the base<br />
blend, most of which will be used for the Brut<br />
Franciacorta DOCG. After increased ageing on the<br />
lees, the remainder becomes Vintage Zero Dosage.<br />
- The Pinot Nero IGT is used to produce the<br />
high-quality sparkling wine ‘Rosita’, which is aged<br />
for at least 60 months on the lees.<br />
The core market is essentially Italy, primarily areas<br />
such as Tuscany, Lombardy, Liguria and Lazio.<br />
Exports are focused on Switzerland and Northern<br />
Europe.<br />
TWO DIFFERENT FACILITIES FOR EVENTS AND TASTINGS HAVE BEEN CREATED INSIDE THE<br />
VEZZOLI FAMILY HOME, SURROUNDED BY A GARDEN WITH CENTURIES-OLD TREES<br />
NELSON CENCI, FOUNDER OF VIGNETI CENCI<br />
LA BOSCAIOLA – VIGNETI CENCI<br />
Azienda Agricola La Boscaiola - Vigneti Cenci was<br />
the brainchild of Nelson Cenci, a doctor, writer and<br />
member of the Alpine troops. After World War II,<br />
Nelson reunited in Cologne, Franciacorta, with<br />
other members of his Alpine regiment who had<br />
survived the disastrous operations in Russia. In the<br />
1950s, with the help of his fellow soldiers, Nelson<br />
Cenci renovated a mid-19th century farmhouse<br />
and vineyards and began to nurture his passion<br />
for winegrowing.<br />
In the 1960s, the company resumed wine production<br />
which had been put on hold due to the war<br />
20 years earlier. Today, Giuliana and Maurizio,<br />
Nelson’s daughter and grandson, continue to lead<br />
the family in pursuit of excellence, making wines<br />
with very low sulphites. They craft pure, elegant<br />
Franciacorta with low levels of sweetness that do<br />
not obscure the wine and allow it to tell the story of<br />
the family and the land where it came from.<br />
All the wines are made from grapes grown in the<br />
estate’s vineyards on the slopes of Monte Orfano.<br />
These include old Pinot Blanc vines, the estate’s<br />
crowning glory, which are up to 70 years old.<br />
Over the years, new Chardonnay and Pinot Noir<br />
vineyards have been planted. The terroir at Monte<br />
Orfano basks in a dry, sunny Mediterranean<br />
climate with good ventilation, and instils the wines<br />
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ITALY<br />
APPELLATION<br />
GIULIANA AND MAURIZIO, DAUGHTER AND GRANDSON OF COMPANY FOUNDER NELSON<br />
CENCI, CONTINUE TO LEAD THE FAMILY IN THE PURSUIT OF EXCELLENCE<br />
with minerality. All of them are produced using the<br />
‘Solo Uva’ or ‘only grapes’ technique, where must<br />
from their own grapes is used in both the tirage and<br />
dosage, meaning that the wine is produced with no<br />
added sugar. This technique also means that the<br />
grapes can be harvested when they have reached<br />
full phenolic ripeness.<br />
7 styles are produced: La Capinera Brut, La Via della<br />
Seta Saten, Zero Dosage, La Capinera Rosè Brut,<br />
Nelson Cenci Extra Brut, Sessanta Vintage Brut<br />
and Nelson Cenci ‘L’Insolita Annata’ Vintage Brut.<br />
In terms of markets, 75% of the wines are sold<br />
within Italy, mainly to the hospitality industry.<br />
The remaining 25% is exported to Switzerland,<br />
the United States, the United Kingdom, Belgium,<br />
Germany, Hong Kong and Japan.<br />
CASTEL FAGLIA<br />
WINEMAKER SANDRO CAVICCHIOLI SUPERVISES THE ENTIRE FRANCIACORTA<br />
WINEMAKING PROCESS AT CASTEL FAGLIA<br />
Castel Faglia, which was founded in 1989 and is<br />
now owned by the Cavicchioli family, is located in<br />
Calino, a hamlet of Cazzago San Martino, in the<br />
centre of Franciacorta. The estate takes its name<br />
from the castle of the former owner, Colonel<br />
Umberto Faglia. It is situated on a hill of morainic<br />
origin at 300 m above sea level. The partly terraced<br />
vineyards stretch across its slopes. The perfect<br />
aspect, stony soils and special microclimate define<br />
the estate’s wines.<br />
The company’s philosophy is aimed at creating<br />
Franciacorta wines with a strong regional identity,<br />
showing respect for the quality of the grapes<br />
and winemaking traditions. The Castel Faglia<br />
style is based on the constant quest for harmony<br />
between intensity and freshness, personality and<br />
drinkability. To achieve this, the vines are grown<br />
with utmost respect shown for the ecosystem<br />
and the vineyard. The grapes are harvested entirely<br />
by hand in crates and only the best clusters<br />
are selected. In the cellar, under the watchful<br />
eye of winemaker Sandro Cavicchioli, the grapes<br />
are gently crushed (only free-run juice is used to<br />
produce Franciacorta) and the wines are blended<br />
to create a balance between complexity, aromatics,<br />
body, finesse, character and stylistic consistency.<br />
Using grapes from local producers, the company’s<br />
range runs the gamut in terms of Franciacorta<br />
styles, from the basic level to vintage, under its two<br />
brands ‘Castel Faglia’ (for super and hypermarkets)<br />
54 AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
DR. JOSKA BIONDELLI,<br />
THE OWNER AND INSPIRING<br />
CREATOR AND MANAGER OF<br />
CANTINE BIONDELLI<br />
and ‘Monogram’ (for the hospitality sector.) The 17-hectare estate’s varietal range is 90% Chardonnay,<br />
with a balance of Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir. The wine is mainly sold in Italy with small<br />
quantities exported to the USA, Japan and England.<br />
BIONDELLI<br />
The Biondelli family’s farmstead, whose centrepiece is a 16 th century farmhouse, is situated in<br />
Bornato, an ancient village in the heart of Franciacorta. Today, the historical estate is a modern<br />
company equipped with the most advanced winemaking facilities. The aim is to produce excellent<br />
wines from a perfect fusion of tradition and modernity, starting with organically farmed vineyards.<br />
The winery’s success is due to a very flexible and dynamic team revolving around owner and inspiring<br />
creator Dr. Joska Biondelli, now assisted by his wife Francesca. Marta Uberti is tasked with both the<br />
vineyards and work in the winery, Dr. Cesare Ferrari is consultant winemaker and Michele Ugolini<br />
is the company’s sales manager.<br />
For the fruit, significant emphasis has been placed on Chardonnay, varying rootstock and clones<br />
depending on the agronomic characteristics. The only exception is the Pinot Noir used to produce<br />
the Rosé Donna Clemy, which comes from an authentic ‘cru’ dedicated to growing this challenging,<br />
but extraordinary variety.<br />
Biondelli produces 5 different styles of Franciacorta Docg:<br />
- Biondelli Brut NV, 100% organic Chardonnay;<br />
- Biondelli Satén NV, 100% organic Chardonnay;<br />
- Première Dame Vintage Zero Dosage 2015, 100% organic Chardonnay;<br />
- Donna Clemy Rosé Vintage, 100% organic Pinot Noir;<br />
- Cavalier Beccaria Riserva 2010, 100% Chardonnay, Limited Edition, last disgorgement 2017, aged<br />
for 72 months on the lees.<br />
85% of the wines are sold in Italy but Biondelli is witnessing an increase in exports to Japan, Germany,<br />
Holland and England.<br />
Franciacorta has demonstrated its ability to constantly ramp up its level of quality. Increasingly,<br />
vineyards are farmed sustainably and export markets are growing. Developing exports is considered<br />
a necessity due to increased sparkling wine production within Italy and the desire to bolster<br />
international awareness of a designation that symbolises traditional method Italian sparkling wine.<br />
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ARE GERMAN WINES<br />
THE WINNERS OF GLOBAL<br />
WARMING?<br />
BY MATTHIAS NESKE<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS:<br />
COURTESY OF THE ESTATES,<br />
© MATTHIAS NESKE<br />
So far in 2022, Germany is experiencing the hottest and, above all, driest summer<br />
since weather records began. Weeks without any rain, forest fires, historically low<br />
river levels and shallow-rooted plants withered - all the result of 40 days at over<br />
30°C. Under these conditions, it seems a little cynical to call Germany a possible<br />
‘winner of global warming’. But climate is a long-term matter, and many people<br />
– German winegrowers included – quickly forget that only a year ago, in early<br />
summer 2021, they had complained about fungal pressure in the vineyards caused<br />
by high rainfall and humidity.<br />
HEAT AND DROUGHT ARE CAUSING TROUBLE FOR SMALL SOUTH-FACING VINEYARDS IN THE MOSEL VALLEY<br />
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GERMANY<br />
CLIMATE<br />
HARVESTING CHARDONNAY GRAPES BY HAND IN RHEINHESSEN. THIS IS ONE OF THE MOST PROMISING VARIETIES<br />
So what has made German viticulture special over the last 20 years? Has there<br />
been a transformation from cool to ideal conditions for winegrowing? How have<br />
preferences for grape varieties changed? Five German wineries and their wines offer<br />
some answers to these questions.<br />
THE STORY SO FAR<br />
Winegrowing has been practised in Germany for at least 2,000 years. For a long<br />
time situated on the northern border of winegrowing, the climatic situation shaped<br />
both the choice of cultivation areas and legal regulations. Viticulture in Germany has<br />
always involved a struggle to achieve ripeness, which is why the most famous sites<br />
are steep and south-facing, to absorb as much sunlight and warmth as possible. This<br />
is also why the German Prädikatswein system of the 20 th century was solely based<br />
on the sugar content of the grapes. The riper, i.e. the higher the sugar content of the<br />
must, the better the quality of the wine.<br />
Perhaps it is no coincidence that in an era of global warming, the new German wine<br />
law has taken a turn in its philosophy – moving away from the dictates of grape<br />
ripeness and towards the Burgundian pyramid of terroir qualities with regional,<br />
village and single vineyard wines.<br />
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GERMANY<br />
CLIMATE<br />
GERMANY’S WINE INDUSTRY<br />
Germany has 13 wine regions, mainly in the south-west of the country, among which<br />
Rheinhessen and the Palatinate have the largest vineyard acreage. With 103,000 ha<br />
under vine, the country ranks 14 th worldwide, but has seen its area increase by 8.4% in<br />
the last 30 years. The most widely grown grape varieties are Riesling (stable acreage),<br />
Pinot Noir (significantly increasing) and Müller-Thurgau (significantly decreasing).<br />
Two thirds of the grape varieties remain white, while the red wine boom of the 2000s<br />
has weakened a little in recent years. The biggest winners over the last two decades<br />
are Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris, both of which have doubled their area under vine.<br />
What isn‘t yet strongly reflected in the statistics are experiments with ‘southern’ grape<br />
varieties, which are primarily evident among red grapes. Thanks to global warming,<br />
Merlot has now statistically reached 20th position (790 ha country-wide), and Cabernet-Sauvignon<br />
22nd. Steep-slope projects, co-financed by the government, have seen<br />
grape varieties such as Nero d’Avola and Tannat be put into the ground. German<br />
Syrah, too, has entered the winegrowing world with some remarkable examples.<br />
Another trend is that of newly propagated fungus-resistant grape varieties (hybrids)<br />
which are also gaining considerable traction.<br />
EVENING LIGHT ON KIRCHENSTÜCK IN PALATINATE, PROBABLY THE MOST PRESTIGIOUS SITE FOR DRY RIESLING IN ALL OF GERMANY<br />
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GERMANY<br />
CLIMATE<br />
By contrast, grape varieties such as Müller-Thurgau,<br />
Kerner and Bacchus, which made Germany the<br />
world record-holder in terms of yield per hectare,<br />
have finally lost ground. The varieties were not only<br />
notorious mass producers, they were also marked<br />
by thin skins and early ripening. As the mercury<br />
soars (and customers become more demanding),<br />
none of these characteristics are particularly<br />
advantageous.<br />
A SIGN OF GLOBAL WARMING - A LIZARD IN THE MOSEL VALLEY<br />
FEELING THE HEAT<br />
When referring to the effects of global warming<br />
on German viticulture, it is helpful to first look<br />
at the corresponding data – in this case using<br />
the example of the Franconian wine metropolis<br />
of Würzburg.<br />
The diagram clearly shows that you can actually<br />
distinguish between two periods in the development<br />
of temperatures. From the Second World<br />
War until about 1987, there was no increase in<br />
annual mean temperatures at all. Only by the<br />
end of the 1980s did a noticeable rise begin.<br />
Since then, it has become almost 2°C warmer on<br />
average per year. It sometimes seems that people<br />
often don‘t realise that these 2°C are not limited<br />
to a one-time event. In fact (and in simple<br />
terms), it means 2°C more every day and every<br />
night, which is a dramatic amount. Moreover,<br />
the rising temperatures apply to every single<br />
month of the year. July and August, when the<br />
grapes ripen, show a particularly strong increase.<br />
Does this also mean that it has become drier in<br />
Germany? Currently, this does not tally up with<br />
the numbers. Only April and June show significant<br />
declines. In midsummer, on the other hand,<br />
there is just as much rainfall as there was in the<br />
1950s. However, weather periods in general, and<br />
thus also dry spells, are becoming longer and<br />
longer.<br />
Above all, one thing has changed and it is<br />
connected with the rise in temperatures: higher<br />
air temperatures mean higher absorption capacity<br />
of moisture. Only when the air is saturated<br />
with water does rainfall start, in summer more<br />
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GERMANY<br />
CLIMATE<br />
and more frequently as heavy rain. The soil cannot absorb these floods quickly and<br />
the water is dissipated and ultimately hardly benefits the plants. So although the<br />
amount of precipitation has remained virtually unchanged, the effects of a thunderstorm<br />
versus steady rain are highly different.<br />
THE IMPACT ON VITICULTURE<br />
After the ‘lean’ wine years of the 1960s and 1970s, ripeness (with the exception of 2010,<br />
the only ‘cold’ year of the 21st century) is rarely a problem for German winegrowing<br />
anymore. This does not only apply to the micro-climatically favoured locations, but to<br />
practically the entire country. It is no wonder that many regional winegrowing associations<br />
see Germany as a winner of global warming.<br />
Apart from climate, other factors have contributed to the enormous quality upswing<br />
in German winegrowing over the last two decades.<br />
One is the Geisenheim University of Applied Sciences in the Rheingau, a training institution<br />
where almost all young winemakers from ambitious wineries meet. This has<br />
ensured that the latest scientific findings in viticulture and oenology, boosted by international<br />
exchanges, have found their way into Germany’s top wine estates. The choice<br />
of high-quality grape varieties (especially Riesling and Pinot Noir), yield reduction,<br />
harvesting of healthy fruit, wild ferments, ageing in traditional wooden barrels and a<br />
more hands-off approach to winemaking – these are all aspects of the new generation’s<br />
toolbox.<br />
Additionally, an increasing proportion of wine enthusiasts are prepared to pay more for<br />
high-quality products – and that is no mean revolution in notoriously stingy Germany.<br />
All in all, it is fair to say that there have never been as many good wines in Germany as<br />
there are at the moment.<br />
HARVESTING RIESLING GRAPES<br />
IN THE PALATINATE<br />
PINOT NOIR GRAPES, READY FOR HARVEST<br />
IN THE FIRST WEEK OF SEPTEMBER 2022<br />
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CLIMATE<br />
GERMAN WINES PUT THROUGH<br />
THEIR PACES BY<br />
GILBERT & GAILLARD<br />
THE TEAM OF RUPPERTSBERG WINE CELLAR FINDING THEIR WAY<br />
Ruppertsberg Wine Cellar/Palatinate<br />
The Ruppertsberg co-operative was established in<br />
1911, merging with that of Hoheburg in 1968. Today,<br />
86 member winegrowers farm a total 400 hectares<br />
of vines in Ruppertsberg and can draw on a storied<br />
terroir. Excavations suggest that the Romans were<br />
already growing vines at the intersection of two<br />
roads near Ruppertsberg. The winery can even<br />
boast a top vineyard site, embodied by Ruppertsberger<br />
Reiterpfad. Geologically, the uplift of the<br />
strata at the edge of the Rhine Graben brought<br />
shell limestone in a strongly dissolved form to the<br />
surface, while sandstone dominates the subsoil.<br />
The most important grape variety - as in the Palatinate<br />
as a whole - is Riesling, but the Ruppertsberg<br />
varietal portfolio is broad. It includes white as well<br />
as red varieties and ranges from sweet whites in<br />
litre bottles to high-quality examples of Riesling,<br />
Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Due to its felicitous<br />
historical and climatic location, the Rieslings often<br />
show ripe apricot fruit as a counterpoint to the<br />
minerality of the soil.<br />
LIKE A NUMBER OF RENOWNED PRODUCERS IN GERMANY,<br />
WEINGUT SCHÖNLAUB USES FRENCH OAK<br />
Schönlaub/Palatinate<br />
The Schönlaub winery is located in Gleiszellen in<br />
Southern Palatinate. What may seem like a regional<br />
marginalia has not inconsiderable significance in<br />
Germany’s second largest wine region. Wines, wine<br />
tradition and terroir have a character that clearly<br />
differs from the more northerly sub-region of<br />
‘Mittelhaardt’. The winery itself has existed for 250<br />
years, but it was not until 1949 that the Schönlaubs<br />
decided to bottle the wines themselves instead of<br />
selling them in barrels. In 2007, the estate established<br />
its own quality system, which awards<br />
the wines between one and three stars. This also<br />
involves specific measures such as sizeable yield<br />
reduction and hand harvesting in the three-star<br />
category called ‘Fingerprint’.<br />
60% of the Schönlaub family’s wines are white<br />
which, conversely, means quite a high proportion<br />
of red wines. These include, for example, the<br />
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JOCHEN NEHER AND<br />
SAYNUR SONKAYA-NEHER<br />
PRODUCE REMARKABLE<br />
RHEINGAU RIESLINGS<br />
BORDEAUX<br />
TRAVEL<br />
THE TEAM OF WEINGUT<br />
STUDIER IN THE CELLAR<br />
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CLIMATE<br />
Sankt Laurent (an old Palatine-Austrian grape<br />
variety) from the ‘Fingerprint’ series, whose current<br />
vintage is actually 2012. A traditional speciality in<br />
the Southern Palatinate is also the Muskateller (aka<br />
Muscat blanc à petits grains), Alsace after all, lurks<br />
just around the corner.<br />
JOCHEN NEHER OF WEINGUT MOHR IN ONE OF HIS STEEP RHEINGAU VINEYARDS<br />
Mohr/Rheingau<br />
To the west of Frankfurt lies the Rheingau, perhaps<br />
Germany’s most important wine region historically<br />
– although in terms of acreage it only ranks 8th.<br />
Here, Riesling is the uncrowned king with 78% of<br />
area under vine, followed by the famous Spätburgunder<br />
– aka Pinot noir – from Assmannshausen.<br />
These two grape varieties make up the majority of<br />
the Mohr winery’s ten hectares. Located in the far<br />
west beyond the Rhine bend, Jochen Neher and<br />
his wife Saynur have been farming their certified<br />
vineyards organically for almost a decade.<br />
On slopes like the Assmannshäuser Höllenberg<br />
in particular, with a gradient of up to 70%, this<br />
approach implies a lot of manual work. The yields<br />
are low and the vines up to 80 years old – the Mohr<br />
winery is an uncompromising quality grower.<br />
In the municipal areas of Lorch and Assmannshausen<br />
vines grow on various slate formations<br />
interspersed with quartzite veins. Not a single<br />
square metre is flat here. The Nehers produce a<br />
Großes Gewächs Riesling from each of the Lorch<br />
vineyards Krone, Schlossberg and Bodental-Steinberg.<br />
While the Höllenberg is traditionally reserved<br />
for Pinot Noir, there is also an orange wine made<br />
from Pinot Blanc in addition to a high-quality<br />
sparkler.<br />
OFF ROAD ON TRACK - THE TEAM OF WEINGUT STUDIER, PALATINATE<br />
Studier/Palatinate<br />
With the organically certified Studier Winery from<br />
Ellerstadt, a third winery from the Palatinate has<br />
added its wines to our list. Ellerstadt is located in<br />
the Northern Palatinate, where Reinhard Studier’s<br />
team grows its vines on the soils along the plain.<br />
Historically, these were the ‘lesser’ sites because<br />
they had neither the barren minerality nor the steep<br />
southern exposure of other vineyards. An exception<br />
is the Kirchenstück with its sandy loess loam which<br />
is able to produce remarkable wines. In addition is<br />
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GERMANY<br />
CLIMATE<br />
the issue of whether more compact soils like loess that dry out less quickly might be a more<br />
promising option in the future.<br />
When labelling its lines, the Studier winery plays with its name, which literally means<br />
‘study’! The Bachelor line features the simpler wines and the Master line the higher quality<br />
examples. Finally, there is the # line with experimental wines, where winemaker Aleksandra<br />
Frank plays with elements such as maceration time, concrete eggs or large barrels.<br />
Einig-Zenzen/Mosel<br />
The Mosel region, which is steeped in tradition and gifted with spectacular scenery, is<br />
represented by the Einig-Zenzen estate. Incidentally, Zenzen has nothing to do with<br />
‘Zen’, but is simply the name of the owner’s family (pronounced: tsenn-tsenn). As is not<br />
uncommon in the Mosel, brothers Peter-Josef and Heinz-Rudolf Zenzen are the 13th generation<br />
of winegrowers since 1636 to have been at the helm. A decisive twist in the history<br />
was the decision, made almost 80 years ago, to primarily operate as a wine merchant<br />
(négociant-éleveur). As early as 1971, the company no longer limited itself to local wines,<br />
but also began importing wines from Australia – far ahead of future trends – and nine<br />
years later from Chile.<br />
With new tanks and a bag-in-box filling line, the company has always been at the cutting<br />
edge. Recently, however, a new direction was taken. In 2019, the Zenzen family leased the<br />
historic Kloster Ebernach vineyard in Cochem on the other bank of the Mosel. In this way,<br />
in addition to internationally-focused wines such as Merlot from Rheinhessen or Sauvignon<br />
Blanc from South Africa, the Zenzens also produce classic Mosel Rieslings from their<br />
own vineyards. The 8 ha of the Ebernach monastery are almost exclusively planted with<br />
Riesling, including the monopoles Bischofsstuhl and Sonnenberg. The resultant semi-dry<br />
and sweet Rieslings encapsulate a large chunk of German wine history.<br />
OLD STYLE ‘VERTICAL FARMING’ - STEEP TERRACES IN THE MOSEL VALLEY NEAR THE EINIG-ZENZEN ESTATE<br />
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CLIMATE<br />
GLEISZELLEN IN PALATINATE - LAST STOP BEFORE THE BIG FOREST<br />
RED SLATE WITH UMLAUT - ÜRZIGER WÜRZGARTEN IN THE MOSEL VALLEY<br />
IS CLIMATE CHANGE A DOUBLE-EDGED SWORD?<br />
For a long time, Germany was on the northern border of viticulture. This meant that optimal<br />
grape ripening was not guaranteed every year and certainly not in all locations. Global<br />
warming has virtually wiped away this challenge, especially in the last 20 years. An annual<br />
average temperature increase of 2°C means smooth ripening and a harvest well before the<br />
vagaries of autumn weather rear their head.<br />
This victory, though, does have strings attached. Riesling and (for the last two decades)<br />
Spätburgunder are the two grape varieties that produce the highest quality German wines.<br />
The hallmark German style has always been characterised by particularly delicate wines<br />
showing lots of elegance and low alcohol content. These typical cool climate character traits<br />
have been highly prized recently by progressive sommeliers. However, when grapes become<br />
increasingly ripe, winegrowers have to cope with this natural change.<br />
Vineyard management techniques, such as permanent ground cover, lower foliage or a<br />
move to higher locations may help in this respect. Nevertheless, preserving cool climate<br />
characteristics remains a challenge, especially in the top vineyards with their even hotter<br />
microclimates.<br />
In the next few years, it will be crucial for German winegrowers to keep their ear to<br />
the ground and continue to share ideas. The easier part of global warming for German<br />
winegrowing has occurred over the last 20 years. The next phase is now beginning.<br />
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CASTILLA Y LEÓN<br />
OLD VINES, TERROIR<br />
AND HERITAGE<br />
BY ISABELLE ESCANDE<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS:<br />
COURTESY OF THE ESTATES<br />
The Castilla y Leon region, in North-West Spain, is replete with famous appellations<br />
such as Ribera del Duero, Toro, Cigales and Rueda – lining the banks of the river<br />
Duero and producing some of the country’s finest wines.<br />
THE VALDEMONJAS BODEGA IS LOCATED IN THE HEART OF THE MILLA DE ORO, OR THE GOLDEN MILE,<br />
THE MOST PRESTIGIOUS PART OF RIBERA DEL DUERO<br />
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SPAIN<br />
VINEYARDS<br />
LA GRANADILLA’S VINEYARDS ARE SPREAD OVER TWO VILLAGES IN VALLADOLID – NAVA DEL REY AND VILLAVERDE DE MEDINA<br />
Despite its long-standing tradition of growing wine, the Castilla y Leon region<br />
made its debut in the international wine market relatively late on. The low<br />
yields from its vineyards due to the area’s weather patterns along with direct<br />
competition from neighbouring regions prevented it from developing a powerful<br />
wine industry.<br />
But the drivers that guaranteed success in an era of industrial wines have become<br />
obsolete. Nowadays, low-cropping vines are synonymous with quality and small<br />
family-run bodegas that have benefited from new consumer standards are<br />
favoured over large groups. The bodegas have been modernised and equipped with<br />
cutting-edge technology, though they have not drawn a line under tradition, far<br />
from it. Many of them continue to choose bush vine training and harvesting by<br />
hand, or have worked to preserve native grape varieties. Although Tempranillo and<br />
its various avatars (Tinta del Pais, Tinto de Toro etc) still occupy a prime position in<br />
Castilla y Leon’s varietal range, they are not the only ones to have established their<br />
pedigree. Illustrations of this are provided by Mencia in the Bierzo appellation<br />
and Verdejo, the star of Rueda, which produces wines displaying crisp acidity and<br />
delicate aromas.<br />
The region’s wine proposition is multi-faceted, spanning a wide range of styles.<br />
They often encapsulate their maker’s signature style and the stamp of the terroir<br />
where they were born, making them easy to identify in comparison to other wines.<br />
We have selected five bodegas so that you can be the judge of this by tasting their<br />
amazing wines.<br />
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SPAIN<br />
VINEYARDS<br />
BODEGAS LA GRANADILLA,<br />
A FAMILY DREAM<br />
ANA DESCALZO MATOS AND HER FATHER, MIGUEL ÁNGEL DESCALZO,<br />
WHO WAS THE FIRST TO START UP IN THE WINE INDUSTRY<br />
BODEGAS LA GRANADILLA IS RUN BY THE FIVE DESCALZO MATOS BROTHERS AND SISTERS<br />
Although the five Descalzo Matos brothers and<br />
sisters - Luis Alfonso, Roberto, Ana, David and<br />
Miguel – each bring with them over 20 years’<br />
experience in the wine industry, it was not until<br />
2015 that they decided to produce their own wines<br />
and create Bodegas La Granadilla, in the heart of<br />
the Rueda DO, Castilla y Leon’s oldest appellation.<br />
Their bottlings now rank among the most highly<br />
renowned in the region.<br />
Crafted entirely from estate-grown fruit, they<br />
mirror the style of the bodega, which is young<br />
and innovative but also boasts extensive expertise.<br />
“Our main priority lies in the quality of the<br />
grapes”, shares Ana. “Our 104 hectares of vines<br />
are grown with the utmost care. One third of the<br />
vineyard is certified organic and the remainder<br />
borders on organic because we rate respect for<br />
the environment and sustainability very highly”.<br />
70% of the vineyards are planted to Verdejo, but<br />
the variety shows very different characteristics<br />
depending on the blocks where it is grown,<br />
explains the bodega’s technical director, Roberto<br />
Descalzo Matos. “Verdejo from La Granadilla is<br />
more powerful on the palate with higher alcohol<br />
than the same variety from Nava, which is fresher<br />
and fruitier. Fruit from La Garbancera is more<br />
rounded and balanced”. The grapes are then judiciously<br />
blended to produce wines that appeal both<br />
to the national and international marketplace.<br />
BODEGAS FRANCISCO CASAS,<br />
AN ODE TO CRAFTSMANSHIP<br />
Wine was being made in the Toro region even before<br />
the Romans entered Spain, and in the Middle Ages,<br />
they were so highly rated that they were chosen to<br />
fill the holds of La Niña, La Pinta and La Santa-<br />
María and accompany Christopher Columbus on his<br />
journey to the New World, explains Eduardo Casas,<br />
the fourth generation to helm Bodegas Francisco<br />
Casas. The family-run company has been based in<br />
Morales de Toro for over fifty years.<br />
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EDUARDO CASAS, THE FOURTH GENERATION AT THE HELM<br />
OF BODEGAS FRANCISCO CASAS<br />
JESÚS GARCIA ALVAREZ, THE COMPANY’S WINEMAKER<br />
Gifted with intense spicy black fruit aromas and a beautiful dark hue with purple<br />
reflections, Toro wines inevitably make an impression. Made primarily from Tinta<br />
de Toro, a cousin to Tempranillo, they display a seductive mineral touch that flows<br />
into ripe fruit notes after a long stay in casks. “The wines are fleshy and robust with<br />
soft tannins and offer great persistency on the palate”, adds Casas.<br />
When asked what drives the quality of the wines, he immediately points to the<br />
grape growers who work for the bodega. They farm their bush-trained vines<br />
traditionally with expert knowledge of the terroir and yields that are capped at<br />
5,000 kilos per hectare. In addition to this, of course, is the winemaking team<br />
headed up by Jesús Garcia Alvarez who now masterfully manages production and<br />
maturation of the wines after working internationally, in Bordeaux and Chile.<br />
The experienced team at Bodegas Francisco Casas focuses on responsible winemaking<br />
techniques and was recently awarded IFS certification*. It now aims to reduce<br />
the bodega’s emissions by 50% and use materials from renewable sources because<br />
a quality-driven approach automatically entails a commitment to the future.<br />
*IFS certification is a prerequisite for marketing wines in super and hypermarkets and certifies<br />
the quality and safety of food products.<br />
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THIS YEAR, DROUGHT LED<br />
TO THE EARLIEST HARVEST<br />
IN THE HISTORY OF THE<br />
BODEGA LA GRANADILLA,<br />
WITH PICKING STARTING<br />
IN AUGUST<br />
BORDEAUX<br />
TRAVEL<br />
THE VALDEMONJAS BODEGA<br />
HAS E<strong>GG</strong>-SHAPED CONCRETE<br />
TANKS WHICH PROVIDE<br />
NATURAL AND CONTINUOUS<br />
MICRO-OXYGENATION FOR<br />
THE WINES<br />
TREATING THE NATURAL<br />
SURROUNDINGS WITH R<strong>ESP</strong>ECT<br />
IS ONE OF THE PRIORITIES AT<br />
BODEGAS NEXUS<br />
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THE TEAM AT VALDEMONJAS –<br />
THE MOYANO AGÜERA FAMILY<br />
AND WINEMAKER LUCA D’ATTOMA<br />
VALDEMONJAS,<br />
THE ART OF TERROIR<br />
Anfiteatro, Platea, Balcón, Gallinero – or amphitheatre, parterre, balcony and<br />
gallery – are all names of vineyards at the Valdemonjas bodega. They refer to the<br />
various parts of a theatre and are evocative of the winery’s vision of winegrowing.<br />
More than just a farming activity, it is all about the art of showcasing a terroir.<br />
“Wine and art are our two passions. We have never been able to consider them<br />
separately”, admits Alexis Moyano Agüera, son of the bodega’s founder.<br />
Although the estate itself was established in 2012, the Moyano Agüera family<br />
actually started making wine in Ribera in 1998 when it planted its first vineyard,<br />
Pago de Valdemonjas, whose seven hectares of Tempranillo vines are certified<br />
organic. The vineyard is home to a range of soil types, inclines and aspects and<br />
is divided into small blocks that are farmed separately. “Each one of them brings<br />
us something special”, says Moyano Agüera. “The lowest blocks offer freshness,<br />
vigour and fruit, whilst the highest ones provide elegance, power and ripeness”.<br />
In 2009, the property was extended through the purchase of a small vineyard of<br />
old vines – nearly one hundred years old – El Nogal de la Valera, which is also<br />
farmed organically. “The wines from this site are powerful, elegant and long on<br />
the palate and require virtually no intervention because the fruit improves from<br />
one year to the next”.<br />
Another landmark moment in the family’s winegrowing venture was when the<br />
winery itself was built in 2015 at the Valdemonjas estate. Surrounded by vineyards,<br />
it fits perfectly into its natural surroundings. Designed to reduce its impact on the<br />
environment to a minimum, the eco-sustainable building received two awards at<br />
the 2016 Architizer A+Awards. It allows the family and the team to produce 95% of<br />
their own electricity and to harvest rainwater. Ultimately, the art of winegrowing<br />
is not only about enhancing site-expressiveness but also “being capable of passing<br />
the site on to future generations in a condition as good as or better than we found<br />
it”. It’s certainly a project that is not for the faint-hearted!<br />
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SPAIN<br />
VINEYARDS<br />
BODEGAS NEXUS,<br />
THE TEMPLE OF TEMPRANILLO<br />
“Treating the unique features of our base material – Tempranillo – with respect was<br />
the real starting point of our project”, explains bodega director Camino Pardo. At the<br />
time, the company was already producing wines in the Toro DO, but in the 2000s<br />
decided to complement its range by creating Bodegas Nexus where 40 hectares are<br />
entirely planted to Tempranillo right in the heart of Ribera del Duero.<br />
But whilst the grape variety is a core component, the focus is also and more importantly<br />
on terroir. The banks of the river Duero yield warm fruit “whose perfume<br />
pervades the very air we breathe”, a unique feature that stems from the site itself.<br />
“The poor soils, the scarce water supply and the extreme climate enable us to<br />
produce unique wines”, points out the winemaker. “These are appetising, elegant<br />
and silky wines with soft tannins and a joyful persona that stay fresh over time”.<br />
In just a few years, the bodega has successfully carved out an international reputation<br />
for itself and is now marketed in around twenty different countries. It continues<br />
to innovate and recently launched a natural Spanish kosher wine made in<br />
strict compliance with Jewish food rules.<br />
CAMINO PARDO, THE WINEMAKER AND DIRECTOR OF BODEGAS NEXUS<br />
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SPAIN<br />
VINEYARDS<br />
ANGEL GARCÍA, THE FOUNDER OF BODEGAS SANTA RUFINA AND HIS DAUGHTER BLANCA GARCÍA<br />
BODEGAS SANTA RUFINA, OPTING FOR QUALITY<br />
Situated in Cubillas de Santa Marta, in DO Cigales, the Santa Rufina bodega has<br />
chosen to favour red wine production since its inception. In the past, though, the<br />
region virtually only produced rosés, which were famous for their unusual winemaking<br />
technique of blending red and white grape varieties.<br />
Whilst Cigales producers have in recent years begun making red wines, the<br />
bodega itself has not changed its priorities – red wines account for 85% of its sales<br />
currently – but rather perfected the art of blending. A Gran Reserva, matured for<br />
36 months in casks, was released this year in fact, explains Blanca García, daughter<br />
of the company’s founder, with obvious pride.<br />
Bodegas Santa Rufina is indeed a family affair. Founded in 1997, the estate is<br />
named after Blanca’s grandmother, who passed away when her father was still<br />
a child, says García. The bodega’s vines are extremely old – 40% of them are one<br />
hundred years old – and they extend over 90 hectares. Year-round care and attention<br />
is lavished on them.<br />
At Santa Rufina, quality has always been favoured over quantity. In fact, the winery<br />
has held onto some traditional winemaking techniques and opted for limited<br />
mechanisation. The grapes are picked by hand, “which makes it easier to preserve<br />
the integrity and impeccable quality of the fruit”, all of which is estate-grown. “This<br />
in turn makes it easier to make good wine”, says García, and when you taste the<br />
bodega’s characterful pours, you have to agree.<br />
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RECONCILING WINE<br />
PRODUCTION WITH<br />
CONSERVATION<br />
BY SAMARIE SMITH<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS:<br />
COURTESY OF THE ESTATES<br />
Sustainability is the buzzword of the century. Yet, acting on its pivotal role in<br />
economic viability, environmental protection, and social equity is the invisible<br />
tread keeping the world alive as we know it. Globally, the wine industry is making<br />
its conservation efforts visible, and South Africa intends to remain a vital part of<br />
the conversation.<br />
LA MOTTE HAS WON THE GREAT WINE CAPITALS OF THE WORLD AWARD FOR SUSTAINABILITY MULTIPLE<br />
TIMES IN RECOGNITION OF ITS INNOVATIVE WAYS TO INTRODUCE SUSTAINABILITY TO GUESTS<br />
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SOUTH AFRICA<br />
NEW GENERATION<br />
KLEIN CONSTANTIA’S ANNUAL TREE DRIVE INCLUDES PURCHASING AT LEAST 100 INDIGENOUS PLANTS IN THE FARM’S NATURAL AREAS<br />
The booklet, Our Sustainable Wine Journey, produced by Wines of South Africa<br />
(WOSA), highlights the ethos of Southern Africa’s indigenous /Xam San people<br />
as custodians of the land that gave rise to an alliance of organisations - Sustainable<br />
Wine South Africa (SWSA) - driving the industry’s commitment to sustainable<br />
production. This wine country’s liberating tale includes groundbreaking initiatives to<br />
save water and energy, advocate Fairtrade, education, support thriving black-owned<br />
brands and many more.<br />
As the representative body for the South African wine industry, sustainability<br />
has been integral to building Brand South Africa in the local and international<br />
consumer market, says Rico Basson, Vinpro Executive Director. “The South African<br />
wine industry is a world leader in production integrity, embracing strict guidelines<br />
for sustainable farming and the responsibility of protecting our environment and<br />
conserving our biodiversity. It’s at the forefront of research projects about climate<br />
change, such as Terraclim and Gen-Z. However, for the industry to grow, it is vital to<br />
have a policy and regulatory environment that provides incentives for investment”.<br />
Resilient business models allowed the industry to keep its head up with the onslaught<br />
of added economic pressures due to alcohol bans and the disastrous effects Covid-19<br />
had on wine tourism. Still, ongoing projects like the revival of old vineyards and<br />
improving the livelihood of communities dependent on the industry have elevated<br />
the Cape’s stance on sustainability. Moreover, they have increased consumers’ awareness<br />
of its ethical and environmentally-friendly practices and led to its industry wine<br />
exhibition, CapeWine 2022, coining the theme Sustainability 360.<br />
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SOUTH AFRICA<br />
NEW GENERATION<br />
CAPEWINE 2022<br />
FOR KLEIN CONSTANTIA VITICULTURIST CRAIG HARRIS, “WE NEED TO ENSURE THE SOIL IS<br />
PASSED ON TO THE NEXT GENERATION IN A SIMILAR OR BETTER STATE”<br />
The pandemic prevented CapeWine from happening<br />
in Cape Town but fuelled the need to showcase<br />
projects, programmes and activities anchoring<br />
the industry’s longevity.<br />
As a result, according to Maryna Calow, communications<br />
manager for Wines of South Africa<br />
(WOSA), CapeWine 2022 has seen a record number<br />
of exhibitors since its inception in 2002.<br />
“Sustainability 360 focuses on three pillars: people,<br />
planet and prosperity. We want to highlight how<br />
far we have come to embrace and promote these<br />
practices on our farms and communities to see our<br />
industry thrive for another 360+ years.”<br />
CapeWine 2022 offers a unique opportunity to<br />
share the message of sustainability and promote<br />
the Cape Winelands as an exceptional tourism<br />
destination, adds WOSA CEO, Siobhan Thompson.<br />
“Initiatives include the Wine of Origin certification<br />
(WO), Integrated Production of Wine (IPW), Wine<br />
and Agricultural Industry Ethical Trade Association<br />
(WIETA) and the World Wildlife Fund (WWF),<br />
among others, highlighting that sustainability sits<br />
at the core of the South African wine industry”.<br />
The pledge to create a sustainable harmony<br />
between place, product and people while providing<br />
the world with an enormous diversity of<br />
quality wines has also led to 77% of the country’s<br />
92,000 hectares of vineyards being Wieta certified.<br />
SPIER BECAME A WWF-SA CONSERVATION CHAMPION IN 2012 AND AIMS TO NURTURE THE<br />
UNIQUE BIODIVERSITY THAT ENCOURAGES THE RETURN OF FAUNA, FLORA AND INSECT<br />
LIFE BACK ONTO THE FARM<br />
WWF CONSERVATION CHAMPIONS<br />
South Africa’s wine industry rapidly expanded<br />
in 2000, spurring a partnership between the<br />
conservation and wine sectors. Initially named<br />
the Biodiversity and Wine Initiative (BWI) in 2004,<br />
the programme was renamed the Conservation<br />
Champion programme, offering wine producers<br />
advisory support with tangible targets to improve<br />
their water and energy efficiency. Conservation<br />
champions collectively own 45,200 hectares spread<br />
across the Cape Winelands, of which 24,300 ha of<br />
the Cape Floral Kingdom is conserved, boasting<br />
over 9,600 plant species.<br />
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NEW GENERATION<br />
These environmental leaders collaborate with the<br />
WWF to set up environmental management plans<br />
and implement systems to meet market requirements<br />
through the IPW certification scheme.<br />
Wines produced by WWF Champions carry the<br />
distinctive sugarbird and protea logo on their<br />
bottles, affirming their commitment to biodiversity<br />
and conservation. In turn, this commitment<br />
is perpetuated by every consumer buying a bottle<br />
bearing this logo.<br />
La Motte Estate in Franschhoek has been awarded<br />
Great Wine Capitals winner in the category for<br />
sustainability multiple times. Yet, CEO Hein<br />
Koegelenberg commends the entire wine sector<br />
for its persistent efforts. “We have such diverse<br />
terroir with talented people working in wine. It is<br />
our responsibility to continue focusing on upliftment,<br />
education, training and employment to<br />
better the lives of our local communities”.<br />
La Motte’s projects have seen the implementation<br />
of excellent regenerative farming practices. “Vast<br />
rehabilitated areas cleared from alien invasion<br />
have seen previously unprotected ecosystems<br />
being restored, providing a habitat for rare and<br />
endangered species and luring natural predators<br />
like snakes and owls to control pests”, adds<br />
Koegelenberg.<br />
Vondeling in Paarl boasts species of Fynbos<br />
unique to the area, naming their flagship white<br />
and red wines after two of these red data-listed<br />
plants: Babiana (white) and the Monsonia (red).<br />
Following a fire on the Paardeberg in January<br />
2011, a botanical survey was commissioned by the<br />
Paardeberg Sustainability Initiative (PSI) in collaboration<br />
with Vondeling Wines to record the plant<br />
species growing on the mountain. As a result, over<br />
900 species in over 70 families have been collected.<br />
Their passion for preserving their natural environment<br />
is palpable at Creation, and co-owner<br />
Carolyn Martin shares that being a WWF<br />
Conservation Champion resonates with them on<br />
various levels. “We support scientific initiatives<br />
like ClimaVin (a global climate change project<br />
spearheaded by Stellenbosch University) and<br />
the Vititec GEN-Z project to establish clones and<br />
rootstocks best suited to mitigate climate change”.<br />
CREATION, SITUATED IN THE HEART OF THE CAPE FLORAL KINGDOM, RECEIVED<br />
ITS OFFICIAL WWF CONSERVATION CHAMPION STATUS IN MAY 2022<br />
THE CONSERVATION CHAMPION LOGO<br />
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ALMENKERK, WHERE THE WELL-BEING<br />
OF WORKERS AT WORK AND IN THEIR<br />
PRIVATE SPACE IS VITAL, HAS BEEN<br />
A WWF CONSERVATION CHAMPION<br />
SINCE OCTOBER 2015<br />
As everything is connected, environmentally conscious efforts are bound to give rise to<br />
side hustles like WWF Champion in Elgin, Almenkerk, growing its bee population from<br />
0 to 70 boxes. “It is incredibly gratifying to see nature flourish around you and to know<br />
you are doing as much as possible to preserve it. We need to leave our children a healthy<br />
and financially sustainable farm and cherish every aspect of it”, shares Natalie Obstaele,<br />
co-owner at Almenkerk.<br />
Graham Beck is another stalwart WWF Champion. Over three decades, its COO Pieter<br />
Ferreira (previously as cellarmaster) saw it being shaped into the conservation-savvy<br />
wine mogul it is today. “A substantial portion of the land was set aside as a private<br />
nature reserve (the Graham and Rhona Beck Game Reserve) in the semi-arid region of<br />
Robertson. Many farms have subsequently followed suit. As a result, the Rooiberg-Breede<br />
River Conservancy was established by 27 landowners to protect 16,000 hectares of unique<br />
Cape Floral Kingdom fauna and flora”. For every hectare used for agriculture/wine<br />
production, nine hectares of natural vegetation are conserved, equalling 1,978 hectares.<br />
WASTE NOT, WANT NOT.<br />
Composting and recycling organic and inorganic waste is crucial in the preservation<br />
methods applied at the properties of WWF Champions. The family of Delheim, for<br />
example, grew up with conservation being a part of who they are and how they farm,<br />
says CEO Victor Sperling, whose mom took a stance against plastic bags in the 80s. “My<br />
father planted trees throughout his life to give back to nature. Being a WWF conservation<br />
champion tells people we are committed to doing what is right”.<br />
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NEW GENERATION<br />
Extracting the good from all plastic evil, La Motte also recycles glass and cartons<br />
with recyclable items sold to HE Recyclers, explains Koegelenberg. “The money<br />
generated rewards the staff who commits to recycling”. Furthermore, Amorim<br />
collects used corks for repurposing, and Brenn-O-Kem removes wine lees for the<br />
manufacture of cream of tartar”.<br />
Organic waste material from the winery, such as grape seeds, skins and stalks, are<br />
deposited on a designated compost site with green mulches from vine clippings<br />
and weed cuttings. The compost is irrigated with treated winery wastewater, and<br />
when compost is mature, and the chemical composition has been determined, it<br />
is used in vineyards and gardens.<br />
By 2011, Spier had been consistently recycling 85% of its solid waste, shares Frans<br />
Smit, CEO of this Stellenbosch wine farm, celebrated for its success stories around<br />
sustainability.<br />
“In the last 15 months, we managed to divert all waste, 95-98% recycled and the<br />
balance, to a waste-to-energy plant. In the twelve months to May 2022, our recycling<br />
and recovery efforts resulted in 73,832 kg less CO2 equivalent in the atmosphere,<br />
equalling 671m3 of landfill volume saved through waste diversion”, Smit<br />
continues. Since 2014, Spier has used the CCC Confronting Climate Change carbon<br />
calculator to measure the carbon footprint of their direct wine operations and seek<br />
ways to reduce this.<br />
HEIN KOEGELENBERG, CEO OF LA MOTTE WINE ESTATE,<br />
ENTHUSIASTICALLY SHARES HOW SOUTH AFRICA HAS COME FROM EVERYDAY<br />
QUALITY WINES TO EXCEPTIONAL, SITE-SPECIFIC WINE<br />
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SOUTH AFRICA<br />
NEW GENERATION<br />
WATERWISE<br />
VONDELING’S VINEYARDS RUN OFF THE SOUTH-FACING SLOPES OF THE PAARDEBERG<br />
MOUNTAIN WHERE THE DECOMPOSED GRANITE SOIL AND HABITUAL AFTERNOON SOUTH<br />
WESTERLY WINDS GIVE THE WINES VIBRANCY IN AN OTHERWISE WARM CLIMATE AREA<br />
ALMENKERK IN ELGIN IS HOME TO A SPECTACLE OF FAUNA AND FLORA AND THEY HAVE<br />
COMBINED ORCHARDS AND VINEYARDS TO EXPRESS THE DIVERSITY FOUND HERE<br />
A country like South Africa, struck by prolonged<br />
drought, has established a conservation consciousness<br />
throughout its wine value chain while<br />
maintaining the best possible quality in the most<br />
financially sustainable way. Vondeling viticulturalist,<br />
Magnus Joubert, believes this process<br />
starts in the soil, and a mixture of cover crops is<br />
used to preserve soil health. “This year, we used<br />
black oats (Saia oats), radish, mustard, vetch and<br />
lupines. This way, you cover a broader spectrum of<br />
material you put back in the soil: Saia gives green<br />
manure, radish helps with aeration, mustard helps<br />
protection against nematodes, and vetch provides<br />
good ground cover that helps with weed control<br />
and moisture retention in the soil. The lupines are<br />
a source of nitrogen fixation, and the cover crop<br />
keeps the soil alive. We use mulch in the form of<br />
Canola bales to help with moisture retention in the<br />
soil, and weed control. It breaks down to build soil<br />
health and build up carbon in the soil”.<br />
Graham Beck recycles all its sewerage water from<br />
the farm and cellar. “All recycled water is utilised<br />
for irrigation of the vineyards, amounting to about<br />
three million litres per month”, says Ferreira. “We<br />
have reduced our water usage to a maximum of<br />
6,000 m 3 per hectare yearly through constant and<br />
regular neutron moisture probe readings”.<br />
Spier became a WWF-SA Conservation Champion<br />
in 2012 and had been focusing on rehabilitating<br />
the riparian systems that flow through the farm.<br />
“This includes wetland rehabilitation, removing<br />
alien vegetation and planting indigenous riverine<br />
species that consume much less water”. Since<br />
establishing the Spier Nursery, it has planted over<br />
100,000 trees, shrubs, Fynbos, and over a million<br />
bulbs.<br />
When the Almenkerk-family acquired their Elgin<br />
estate in 2004, they decided to restore sections of<br />
the property to their original state, as identified in<br />
Botanist Helmes’ report of 2002. “Water was the<br />
first concern to arise, as the dam never filled its full<br />
potential during the rainy period”. Just by clearing<br />
alien vegetation to free water, did it freely start<br />
running into the dam during the rainy period,<br />
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VONDELING WINES VINEYARDS<br />
WITH THE PAARDBERG MOUNTAIN<br />
IN THE BACKDROP. WITH 400<br />
HECTARES OF INDIGENOUS FYNBOS<br />
ON THE MOUNTAIN SLOPES,<br />
THE R<strong>ESP</strong>ONSIBLE CUSTODIAN<br />
APPROACH OF WINE ESTATES HAS<br />
A SIGNIFICANT IMPACT<br />
SOUTH AFRICA’S ELEGANT<br />
NATIONAL BIRDS, THE BLUE<br />
CRANE, WANDER AMONG<br />
PRISTINE SURROUNDS IN THE<br />
SPECTACULAR GRAHAM AND<br />
RHONA BECK NATURE RESERVE<br />
LA MOTTE HAS REHABILITATED<br />
35 HECTARES OF DEGRADED<br />
MOUNTAIN VEGETATION AND<br />
COMMITTED MORE THAN 10% OF<br />
THE FARM TO CONSERVATION<br />
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SOUTH AFRICA<br />
NEW GENERATION<br />
CURRENTLY, NINE SOLAR INSTALLATIONS SUPPLY SPIER FARM WITH ELECTRICITY, GENERATING<br />
OVER 280,000 KWH IN 2021, RESULTING IN 107,808KG OF CARBON DIOXIDE SAVINGS<br />
IN 2016, GRAHAM BECK BEGAN INSTALLATION OF AN EXTENSIVE SOLAR SYSTEM,<br />
INSTALLING 1,200 PANELS ON THE ROOF OF ITS MADEBA 3 CELLAR<br />
and natural vegetation in the form of Watsonias,<br />
Restio’s, Arum Lilies and a wide variety of birds<br />
return to the area. In two decades, their rehabilitation<br />
plans saw an apple farm transformed into<br />
an estate that balances apple and grape production<br />
and has cleared conservation- & rehabilitation<br />
areas that classify as afro-montane forests<br />
and wetlands, hosting some red book species. The<br />
challenge is to communicate this effectively to our<br />
international buyers – and the fact that sustainability<br />
is this CapeWine’s theme is a major step in<br />
the right direction”.<br />
For example, a winery like La Motte uses automatic<br />
soil moisture probes, leaf moisture meters<br />
(tension-meters), and thermometers in vineyards<br />
to determine plant irrigation needs. Computerised<br />
water demand management is based on<br />
weekly soil and leaf moisture data and climatic<br />
information. GEOSS (Geohydrological and Spatial<br />
Solutions International (Pty) Ltd) monitors the<br />
farm’s various water resource levels to improve<br />
the utilisation, protection, and management of<br />
its groundwater resources. “The patented Bubbler<br />
system treats the huge volumes of wastewater<br />
generated by the cellar. In addition to treating<br />
cellar effluent, the Bubbler is designed to treat<br />
sewerage and greywater through the Septic Boss<br />
system. The effluent is processed through anaerobic<br />
and aerobic digestion coupled with aeration.<br />
Pathogens and remaining solids are then removed,<br />
making the water suitable for irrigation”.<br />
SAVE ENERGY FOR WHAT TRULY<br />
MATTERS<br />
Spier continues exploring ways to expand its<br />
generation of renewable energy sources, aiming<br />
to reach its net zero carbon footprint milestone by<br />
2030. As a result, the farm has reduced its greenhouse<br />
gas emissions from electrical consumption<br />
by 30% in 2017 based on 2009 levels. In 2021, their<br />
solar installations generated over 280,000 kWh,<br />
resulting in 107,808kg of carbon dioxide savings.<br />
Energy-saving methods are evident in the properties<br />
of many other WWF Champions and wine<br />
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SOUTH AFRICA<br />
NEW GENERATION<br />
businesses. The solar panels installed at Graham<br />
Beck produce around 30% of the total electricity<br />
usage in its production facilities and over 160 solar<br />
panels have been installed at Vondeling, providing<br />
them with 80,200 kWh on average annually.<br />
GRAHAM BECK TAKES GREAT PRIDE IN COMMUNICATING ITS CONSERVATION INITIATIVES<br />
DURING CELLAR TOURS, TASTINGS AND VINEYARD TOURS<br />
ECO-TOURISM<br />
Wine Tourism lies at the heart of the Cape Winelands,<br />
and producers want visitors to experience<br />
positive transformation for themselves. These<br />
offerings include sustainable nature-based activities<br />
like walking, hiking and mountain biking<br />
trails, outdoor dining, bird watching, eco-lodging,<br />
picnics, nature drives and ‘vinisafari’s’.<br />
Visitors to Spier can volunteer in their organic<br />
Food Garden or at the Sustainability Institute<br />
or visit their eco-friendly wastewater treatment<br />
plant that recycles 100% of the farm’s black and<br />
grey water. Their Tree-preneurs nursery, home to<br />
23,000 indigenous plants, has empowered dozens<br />
of tree-growing entrepreneurs living in impoverished<br />
communities to grow indigenous trees and<br />
plants in exchange for livelihood support”.<br />
Traversing the beautiful Elgin valley, the Active@<br />
Almenkerk hiking trail spreads the conservation<br />
gospel to local and international visitors that<br />
become powerful ambassadors for their brand<br />
and its conservation efforts.<br />
The message of sustainability continues to the<br />
Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, where Creation has been<br />
awarded for the way its vision comes alive in<br />
tourism offerings with inventive menus comprising<br />
fresh, seasonal and local ingredients. “Consumers<br />
want to enjoy authentic wines with traceability<br />
and exclusivity. In this context, the future<br />
of fine wine is about consumers venturing to<br />
where the wine is grown to discover the terroir”.<br />
It includes the people who make, grow and<br />
harvest it, confirming that the brand you support<br />
is committed to a sustainable future, including<br />
its beautiful environment, people, community<br />
and clients.<br />
ANTHONY HAMILTON-RUSSELL SEES HIS ROLE AS “CONTINUALLY ENHANCING THE HEALTH<br />
AND DIVERSITY OF OUR OVERALL ECOLOGY, THE WHOLE TEAM AND THEIR FAMILIES<br />
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CASTILLON,<br />
A LEFT-FIELD VIEW<br />
OF THE RIGHT BANK<br />
BY ALAIN ECHALIER<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS:<br />
COURTESY OF THE ESTATES,<br />
©PIERRE PLANCHENAULT<br />
Castillon is home to over 200 winegrowers who farm an average of 10 hectares<br />
each. Evidence of winegrowing here dates back to Gallo-Roman times and<br />
yet, awareness of the region both in France and around the world is still very<br />
haphazard. We take a stab at righting this wrong.<br />
THE VINEYARDS IN FRONT OF CHÂTEAU GERMAN<br />
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BORDEAUX<br />
APPELLATION<br />
As a reminder, when Henry Plantagenet became<br />
King of England after marrying Eleanor of<br />
Aquitaine in 1152, the entire region of Guyenne fell<br />
under English rule. At the time, the area covered a<br />
good third of present-day France, and included all<br />
of Bordeaux. Castillon, a little market town on the<br />
Dordogne, upriver from Libourne and Saint-Emilion,<br />
also fell within its boundaries. This in turn<br />
opened up the London market to the region’s wines,<br />
leading to a boom for the wine industry.<br />
A NAME STEEPED IN HISTORY<br />
But it was only 300 hundred years later that<br />
‘Castillon’ established its reputation. As the<br />
English defended their continental territory<br />
against the King of France’s troops, their leader,<br />
Talbot, lost a decisive battle on 17 July 1453, which<br />
proved fatal to him. The battle, which took place<br />
near Castillon, put an end to the Hundred Years’<br />
War, and marked the withdrawal of the English<br />
from the continent.<br />
Nowadays, a re-enactment of the battle takes<br />
place every summer during a performance for the<br />
public. The Saint-Emilion co-operative winery has<br />
even marketed a commemorative bottle for the<br />
event, under the Castillon appellation of course.<br />
EVERY YEAR, THE RE-ENACTMENT OF THE BATTLE OF CASTILLON<br />
TAKES US BACK TO 1453<br />
THE CASTILLON CÔTES DE<br />
BORDEAUX APPELLATION<br />
Bordering Saint-Emilion to the East, it extends<br />
over several villages around the town now known<br />
as Castillon-la-Bataille. Just like in Saint-Emilion,<br />
a plateau formed primarily of clay-limestone<br />
drops down towards to the sandy-gravelly valley<br />
floor where the Dordogne flows. The inclines can<br />
be relatively steep, with drops ranging from 30 to<br />
70 metres. The vineyard sites therefore offer good<br />
quality, particularly on the western side at a tangent<br />
with Saint-Emilion, where the limestone soils are<br />
more common. At the same time, this prestigious<br />
but cumbersome neighbour may have taken some<br />
of the limelight away from Castillon.<br />
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BORDEAUX<br />
APPELLATION<br />
Until the turn of the 20 th century, Castillon produced<br />
both red and white wine, but whites have now<br />
exited the appellation. Six grape varieties can be<br />
used – Merlot is the undisputed king of the varietal<br />
range, often blended with a little Cabernet Franc or<br />
even Cabernet-Sauvignon or Cot (the local name<br />
for Malbec). Occasionally, there is even a dash of<br />
Petit Verdot or Carmenere, but their share cannot<br />
be higher than 15%.<br />
Although Castillon was previously a stand-alone<br />
appellation, the wines have now technically been<br />
subsumed into the Côtes de Bordeaux appellation,<br />
as a complementary designation. In fact, production<br />
specifications – maximum yield and minimum<br />
level of ripeness for example – are slightly more<br />
quality-focused than for plain Côtes de Bordeaux.<br />
COPING WITH CLIMATE CHANGE<br />
THE VINEYARDS AT CHÂTEAU BRÉHAT<br />
As in most wine regions around the world, climate<br />
disruptions in Castillon have both a short and longterm<br />
impact. Over the long term, higher temperatures<br />
promote greater ripeness in the grape flesh,<br />
with more sugar content and lower acidity. This<br />
is particularly tangible with Merlot, due to its<br />
thin skin. Consequently, the wines display higher<br />
alcohol content and can lose some of their freshness.<br />
To cope with these changes, winegrowers have<br />
responded in different ways. For some time now,<br />
they have been choosing cooler soils for Merlot, and<br />
have started increasing the share of other grape<br />
varieties in blends. Also, they have been harvesting<br />
earlier – in 2022, the harvest kicked off at the start<br />
of September. Lastly, total acidity in the wines is<br />
corrected, as with most wines from the South, by<br />
adding some tartaric acid. The acid occurs naturally<br />
in the grapes.<br />
All of this produces concentrated wines displaying a<br />
dark ruby hue, with notes of ripe red fruits, prunes,<br />
leather and game. However, in anticipation of continued<br />
global warming, a more drastic measure has<br />
been decided – very little Merlot is now going into<br />
the ground.<br />
In the short term, heat waves, rain and sudden<br />
hailstorms are having different types of effect.<br />
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CLÉMENT PARADISI,<br />
THE WINEMAKER AT<br />
MAISON SEIGNOURET<br />
Output is falling, either because the crop is damaged and some of the fruit is<br />
discarded during stringent sorting, or because yields are low. This was true of<br />
summer 2022, when heat and drought produced smaller berries.<br />
SEIGNOURET FRÈRES & CIE:<br />
CHÂTEAUX AND/OR BRANDS<br />
Our survey begins with a long-standing trading company – François Seignouret<br />
founded the firm in 1830. It now distributes 11 million bottles annually around the<br />
world, 80% to export markets. Winemaker Clément Paradisi is tasked with sourcing<br />
the wines and 95% of them come from Gironde. Although purchases include<br />
some Grands Crus, there are also, quite naturally, some Castillon-Côtes de Bordeaux<br />
wines.<br />
The company sells wines by Château Lartigue and has worked with the property<br />
for some fifteen years, marketing around 50,000 bottles a year. As Paradisi points<br />
out, this involves visiting the chateau and tasting the juice and fermenting wines,<br />
which are subsequently bought ‘from the tank’. Bottling, however, is conducted at<br />
the chateau so that the all-important ‘estate-bottled’ statement can feature on the<br />
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BORDEAUX<br />
APPELLATION<br />
label – this is still a reassuring cue for consumers.<br />
After bottling, the wines are either stored in the<br />
temperature-controlled cellars belonging to Maison<br />
Seignouret, or shipped straight to export markets,<br />
including Laos, Vietnam and the United States. This<br />
range of wines, with a retail price tag ranging from<br />
10 to 12 euros, is more suited to quick depletions.<br />
They are very fruity, 95% Merlot offerings that do<br />
have some ageability – Paradisi recently drunk a<br />
2016 that was still very flavourful.<br />
He agrees that Castillon’s reputation is not as<br />
well-established as that of its neighbour Saint-Emilion,<br />
but in its defence points to its lovely hillside<br />
vineyard sites. He enjoys drinking the wines with<br />
fairly hearty dishes, like grilled steak.<br />
Maison Seignouret also produces brands which<br />
draw on the negociant’s expertise in sourcing and<br />
blending wines that can come from several different<br />
producers, and can even change down the years.<br />
The different categories require different marketing<br />
techniques.<br />
VIGNOBLES ALAIN AUBERT:<br />
TERROIR EXPERTISE<br />
THE WINE INVENTORIES<br />
AT MAISON SEIGNOURET<br />
ALAIN AUBERT OF<br />
CHÂTEAU GERMAN<br />
Our next respondent is 79 VA1 and boasts extensive<br />
experience. In his family, wine has been made for a<br />
very long time. He personally started age 14 with his<br />
grandfather, and now owns several chateaux, including<br />
two in the Castillon appellation area.<br />
Château German extends over 35 hectares. The vines<br />
were replanted after the harsh winter of 1956, with<br />
70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet-Sauvignon and 10%<br />
Cabernet franc. “The vineyard blocks start just two<br />
metres away from the Saint-Emilion appellation<br />
area. The boundaries are political, religious even”,<br />
says Alain Aubert. “In the West is Catholic country,<br />
where place names favour the saints (Saint-Emilion,<br />
Lussac-St-Emilion, St-Georges-Saint-Emilion…);<br />
and in the East, is Protestant territory. Another<br />
differentiating factor is the shape of the dovecots,<br />
which are square in the West, and round in the East.<br />
It’s little surprise that Castillon was not incorporated<br />
into the Saint-Emilion satellite appellations!<br />
But in this area, it is difficult to tell the wines apart”.<br />
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BORDEAUX<br />
APPELLATION<br />
Château Hyot also covers 35 hectares but is located<br />
more towards the bottom of the hills. The soils are<br />
more clayey and the share of Merlot drops to 40%.<br />
The wines, which are not expensive, are oaked with<br />
chips. The results are good, but Aubert points out<br />
that they require a fairly technical approach – the<br />
wines have to be tasted every three weeks to get the<br />
quantities right. Not everyone is equipped for such<br />
precision.<br />
Ninety percent of the wines are now sold in export<br />
markets. Aubert misses the time when he had<br />
30,000 customers in France, but gradually his<br />
network of sales representatives retired. The wines<br />
are now shipped to China and the United States,<br />
but also Western Africa, where a kind of common<br />
market facilitates exports. Admittedly, there is<br />
competition from New World wines, but Bordeaux<br />
has always enjoyed an incredible reputation and<br />
Castillon, like all wines from Gironde, also sports<br />
the ‘Grand Vin de Bordeaux’ statement.<br />
Aubert has a fondness for the appellation. The price<br />
of land – in the range of 30,000 euros per hectare –<br />
is ten times cheaper than in Saint-Emilion, which<br />
leaves room for newcomers to join the ranks of<br />
producers, and also to help energise the appellation.<br />
CHÂTEAU BRÉHAT IS ALSO A PART OF CHÂTEAU HAUT ROCHER<br />
BÉATRICE AND JÉROME DE MONTEIL<br />
CHÂTEAU BRÉHAT:<br />
THE GOOD LIFE AS ORGANIC<br />
WINEGROWERS<br />
Béatrice and Jérôme de Monteil are among those<br />
newcomers. In 2010, they gave up their careers in<br />
Paris to take over the family farm from Jérôme’s<br />
brother. That farm is Château Haut Rocher, now<br />
their home, where they produce Saint-Emilion. But<br />
the chateau also owns 5.5 hectares in the Castillon<br />
appellation area, which follow on seamlessly<br />
from Saint-Emilion and are marketed under the<br />
Château Bréhat name. The vineyards are planted<br />
to 70% Merlot, with the balance divided between<br />
Cabernet Franc and Cabernet-Sauvignon. Whilst<br />
for Saint-Emilion the wines are 100% barrel-fermented<br />
in new casks, the ratio is 50% tanks and<br />
50% 1-year-old barrels for Castillon. “From a marke-<br />
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BORDEAUX<br />
APPELLATION<br />
THE DE MONTEIL’S WINERY<br />
ting perspective, it is good to have two different<br />
wines”, claims Béatrice, “even if the soils are very<br />
similar. There are many more hillsides than sites at<br />
the bottom of the slopes”.<br />
At Château Bréhat, the grapes are harvested by<br />
machine, except for the old vines which are more<br />
sensitive to vibrations and are picked by hand.<br />
“The quality of harvesting machines has greatly<br />
improved”, stresses Béatrice. Three years ago, the<br />
couple also switched to organic winegrowing. “This<br />
is true for many Castillon wines”, the couple says.<br />
Sure enough, over 25% of properties are farmed<br />
organically or biodynamically.<br />
Extensive woodlands also help promote biodiversity<br />
and some producers are even asking that in the<br />
future, production specifications for the Castillon<br />
appellation make organic certification mandatory.<br />
That would certainly be a huge feat.<br />
UNION DE PRODUCTEURS<br />
DE SAINT-EMILION:<br />
SOME CASTILLON TOO!<br />
UDP SELLS ITS WINES DIRECT TO CONSUMER FROM ITS WINERY STORE<br />
This large co-operative winery was founded in the<br />
1930s by the former director of Château Figeac.<br />
Fast-forward to 2022, and the head of marketing<br />
and communications, Anne-Sophie Larvor,<br />
introduces us to the winery. The co-operative has<br />
650 hectares under vine and produces primarily<br />
wines under the Saint-Emilion appellation and its<br />
satellites – no surprises there. But how could you<br />
turn away a Saint-Emilion vineyard owner who also<br />
has a few neighbouring blocks in Castillon, and not<br />
make the wines? Sometimes, only a dirt track separates<br />
the two.<br />
The Castillon appellation accounts for nearly 6% of<br />
vineyards farmed by UDP but just 1% of the wines,<br />
because some of them are marketed directly by<br />
the owner. What the winery brings though, is the<br />
standards of a modern co-operative with strict<br />
production specifications, expertise and sizeable<br />
winemaking facilities.<br />
Under the Castillon appellation, UDP produces<br />
one Château – Rouzerol – and also crafts the ‘Roy<br />
Charles’ brand. The brand is a nod to the history of<br />
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ANNE-SOPHIE LARVOR,<br />
HEAD OF MARKETING<br />
FOR UDP<br />
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BORDEAUX<br />
APPELLATION<br />
THE CELLARS AT UDP<br />
Castillon and is produced in conjunction with the organisation that hosts the battle<br />
performance - €1 for every bottle purchased is donated to the association. The wine<br />
sells for €7.90 a bottle, compared with around €9 for a Saint-Emilion satellite appellation<br />
and between €12 and €14 for a Saint-Emilion.<br />
And yet, as Larvor stresses, in the Middle Ages under English rule, Castillon was<br />
much better than known than Saint-Emilion!<br />
CASTILLON ALL-SET TO<br />
RECONQUER CONSUMERS<br />
Castillon wines are not only very affordable, they also have two distinctive features<br />
that make them very focused on the future. Firstly, young winegrowers are providing<br />
the catalyst for the switch to organic farming, which is increasingly popular with<br />
consumers. Secondly, the style of the wines – which are fruity and enjoyable in their<br />
youth – is the perfect fit for current consumer trends. In all likelihood, the region<br />
will gradually secure greater awareness over the next few years by using a thoughtful<br />
approach to communication, leveraging the performance of the wines. There is little<br />
doubt that Castillon will win the battle.<br />
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FROM HVE TO ORGANIC,<br />
BURGUNDY MAKES A PLEDGE<br />
TO THE ENVIRONMENT<br />
BY JEAN-PAUL BURIAS<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS:<br />
COURTESY OF THE ESTATES,<br />
© BIVB, © IMAGE & ASSOCIÉS,<br />
© SÉBASTIEN BOULARD<br />
When a legendary wine region makes a firm commitment to the environment,<br />
its status is enhanced even further. In Burgundy, the number of wineries<br />
certified High Environmental Value has doubled since 2020, a trend which<br />
mirrors the region’s long-standing quality-driven focus. Gilbert & Gaillard<br />
went to the heart of the region to find out more about the phenomenon.<br />
A HUT SURROUNDED BY VINES<br />
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BURGUNDY<br />
ENDORSEMENTS<br />
THE VINEYARDS AT DOMAINE YVON ET LAURENT VOCORET<br />
Investing in an earth-friendly approach to winegrowing using more environmentally friendly techniques<br />
is becoming part and parcel of a winegrower’s life. Renowned for its prestigious appellations,<br />
Burgundy is benefitting from the commitment of a growing number of estates that produce<br />
wines organically, both in the vineyard and the winery. In France, High Environmental Value (HVE)<br />
endorsement crowns the highest level of environmental certification for farms. Since the scheme’s<br />
inception in February 2012, the number of certified farms has grown steadily. By 1 July 2021, more<br />
than 19,000 farms had garnered the certification, including a large number of wineries. At the end<br />
of the certification process, HVE endorses properties that promote biodiversity and offer a complementary<br />
network for crops, preserve life in the soils to maintain fertility, develop positive synergies<br />
with the natural environment of the crops and encourage the development of useful fauna, including<br />
precious pollinators. These criteria are core components of work in the vineyard, entailing a more<br />
independent approach to plant protection products and treatment, along with water management.<br />
The certification gives winegrowers the freedom to act as they see fit. They can choose the techniques<br />
best suited to the characteristics of their vineyards, soil, climate and plot size in order to develop<br />
environmental practices that treat the unique character of their vineyard sites, and therefore their<br />
wines, with respect. “To secure the endorsement, winegrowers must put together an application<br />
and then request an audit by an accredited external organisation”, explains a spokesperson from<br />
the Burgundy Wine Bureau (BIVB). “An initial intermediate audit is carried out 18 months after<br />
certification for review. Then a renewal is required every three years. The process is not necessarily a<br />
stepping stone to the more restrictive transition to organic farming. There is no connection between<br />
the two initiatives. Everyone can follow the route they choose – they can view HVE as a step towards<br />
organic, stay HVE or go straight to organic farming without transitioning via HVE”.<br />
We follow the unique environmental journey of eight Burgundy estates, which illustrate to perfection<br />
how varied this wine region can be.<br />
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LÉGENDES<br />
WILLIAM WATERKEYN,<br />
THE WINEMAKER AT<br />
DOMAINE JESSIAUME<br />
JEAN-FRANÇOIS LE BIGOT,<br />
THE OWNER OF<br />
DOMAINE JESSIAUME<br />
DOMAINE JESSIAUME: A WORTHY CAUSE<br />
Domaine Jessiaume is located in Santenay, in the Côte de Beaune, at the<br />
heart of Burgundy. Its 15 hectares of vines cover the hillsides of some of the<br />
region’s most storied villages, including Beaune, Pommard, Volnay, Auxey-<br />
Duresses and Santenay. Founded in 1850 by the Jessiaume family, the estate<br />
subsequently came under Scottish ownership with David Murray (between<br />
2006 and 2020). He introduced environmentally-friendly techniques, where<br />
handling and crushing were kept to a minimum. The fruit is picked in crates<br />
by hand as is sorting. Elevator belts are used for vatting, natural yeast is<br />
used for fermentation and gentle, controlled extractions are favoured. The<br />
estate was taken over in 2020 by Dr. Jean-François Le Bigot, who maintains<br />
the same high standards to produce elegant, pure, fine wines which<br />
show respect for the vineyard sites and mirror a desire for sustainable,<br />
high-quality wines. “Farming organically allows us to enhance pure terroir<br />
expression”, says the estate’s winemaker William Waterkeyn. “In the winery,<br />
we go above and beyond the requirements of certification. We use wild<br />
ferments, no winemaking aids or sulphites before fermentation, which<br />
allows us to fully express provenance. Our wines have a signature terroir<br />
style that is recognisable in a blind tasting. They show great complexity and<br />
that is a strength”.<br />
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GÉRARD DOREAU,<br />
WITH HIS WIFE RÉJANE AND<br />
HIS TWO CHILDREN,<br />
JÉRÔME AND EMILIE<br />
THE FAMOUS VILLAGE<br />
OF MONTHÉLIE<br />
DOMAINE DOREAU: SEAMLESS TRANSITION<br />
At this remarkable estate, passed down through the generations, family is the<br />
common thread. At the end of the 19th century, Pierre Doreau bought plots of land<br />
in order to replant vines decimated by phylloxera. The business then prospered<br />
and grew. The present-day Domaine Doreau crafts authentic wines from prime<br />
grape varieties grown on 6 hectares of vines located within top appellations such<br />
as Monthélie and Pommard. Sustainable farming and respect for the environment<br />
and vineyard sites dictate choice of vineyard management and winemaking techniques.<br />
This stringent approach enabled the winery to secure High Environmental<br />
Value certification in 2019. Tillage is used in the vineyards from March to July but<br />
for the rest of the year, natural ground cover is left with grassed headlands.<br />
Much thought is given to vineyard treatments, with products authorised for<br />
organic farming the preferred option wherever possible. “Securing the endorsement<br />
did not have any particular effect on our farming methods because our<br />
practices already aligned with HVE standards”, stresses Jérôme Doreau, the<br />
estate’s manager. “Also, it is difficult to ascertain whether switching to HVE led<br />
to greater appeal and demand for the wines because Burgundy is so popular<br />
at the moment and inventory is low. The endorsement does not necessarily act<br />
as a magnet. However, it does reassure customers who come to the cellar door<br />
and ask us how we farm, though it has yet to become an advantage for exports”.<br />
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BURGUNDY<br />
ENDORSEMENTS<br />
DOMAINE BERGER-RIVE: A FAMILY AFFAIR<br />
Skills are passed down from generation to generation in the Berger-Rive family,<br />
and for the past two years this knack of sharing has taken on a new meaning. With<br />
26 hectares under vine, 16 of them located in the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, Bourgogne<br />
Pinot Noir and Bourgogne Aligoté appellation areas and 10 in the northern part of the<br />
Côte Chalonnaise, in Rully and Mercurey, the winery has been HVE certified since<br />
January 2020. The first vintage entitled to the endorsement was 2017. The estate’s<br />
history began after the French Revolution, when the Berger family’s ancestors bought<br />
the Prieuré de Mercey and its vineyards. Over the generations, the estate evolved,<br />
mostly due to the input of Gérard Berger who planted 12 hectares of vines, before<br />
renaming the property Berger-Rive in 1960 by appending his wife’s maiden name to<br />
his own. Gérard’s son Xavier joined him in 1977 before taking over management of<br />
the estate in 1989, gradually extending acreage in other areas to a total 22 hectares.<br />
The fourth generation arrived in 2015 when Paul Berger, the youngest of Xavier’s<br />
three children, decided to perpetuate the family’s impressive winegrowing heritage<br />
and culture. After working with his father for five years, Paul took over the reins<br />
of the estate in 2020, increasing vineyard area to 26 hectares which are managed<br />
using sustainable, earth-friendly techniques. “This is a great source of pride for our<br />
entire team and recognition of all the efforts made over the years on the family estate<br />
PAUL BERGER WHO TOOK OVER AT<br />
THE HELM OF DOMAINE BERGER-RIVE IN 2020<br />
XAVIER BERGER, WHO RAN DOMAINE<br />
BERGER-RIVE FROM 1989 TO 2020<br />
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BURGUNDY<br />
ENDORSEMENTS<br />
to promote biodiversity and the environment”, he<br />
says. “The vines are managed sustainably with a<br />
focus on reintroducing ancient farming techniques<br />
such as hoeing”. Two thirds of the estate are planted<br />
with vines reaching 2 metres in height, with row<br />
spacing of 2.5 metres. This planting technique<br />
creates a healthier environment, reducing disease<br />
pressure and plant protection product usage.<br />
LAURENT AND CLÉMENTINE VOCORET<br />
YVON AND LAURENT VOCORET:<br />
EXCELLENCE IN CHABLIS<br />
Yvon and Laurent Vocoret love their job, which has<br />
provided the common thread for 5 generations<br />
of their family. “Our family has been a part of the<br />
history of winegrowing in the heart of Chablis since<br />
1713”, says Yvon Vocoret. The story began with winegrower<br />
Jean Vocoret, and over the years the fruits,<br />
nobility and passion of producing wine have been<br />
passed down the generations. “For 40 years, we<br />
have been using organic amendments, which forces<br />
our soil to transform organic matter into mineral<br />
matter to provide nourishment for the vines.<br />
Producing sustainably guarantees a quality crop”.<br />
For the past three years, the estate has switched to<br />
tillage and hoeing in order to do away with weed<br />
killers and put a cap on spraying, thereby treating<br />
the soils with respect. “This requires a great deal<br />
of monitoring to ensure the quality of the harvest<br />
and the lifespan of vines in good health”, explains<br />
Laurent Vocoret. “We no longer use anti-botrytis<br />
or grey rot treatments. This way, the grapes ripen<br />
harmoniously and develop finer and richer skins<br />
that promote better quality must”.<br />
A FUTURE WINEGROWER<br />
DOMAINE VINCENT WENGIER:<br />
AN UNFAILING COMMITMENT<br />
Vineyards here are managed in narrow rows, typical<br />
of the region. After ramping up its commitment to<br />
environmentally-friendly techniques, the estate is<br />
converting to organic, and will be a fully-fledged<br />
organic producer by the 2023 harvest. The family<br />
estate grows 25 hectares of vines, spread over five<br />
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LAURENT VOCORET<br />
BORDEAUX<br />
TRAVEL<br />
VINCENT WENGIER<br />
IN HIS VINEYARD<br />
CÉLINE AND<br />
ANTOINE ANGST<br />
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ENDORSEMENTS<br />
appellations – Chablis, Petit Chablis, Aligoté, Bourgogne<br />
Chardonnay and recently Bourgogne Rouge,<br />
with a first crop in 2021.<br />
The vineyards are weeded by machine 4 to 5 times<br />
a year and yield clean, precise wines with lots of<br />
fruit, richness and roundness. “HVE endorsement<br />
highlights good winegrowing practices”,<br />
stresses Vincent Wengier. The product itself is not<br />
the issue, but rather a reduction in inputs, reined<br />
in fertilisation, the amount of plant protection<br />
products applied every year and the development<br />
of grass-covered strips of land, hedges and trees.<br />
Organic farming and HVE certification are different<br />
and complementary. One is agri-environmental,<br />
whereas the other aims to produce an<br />
end wine with no pesticide residues. “It’s a bonus<br />
when we talk about it with private customers”, says<br />
Wengier. “But the schemes are still not well known<br />
by the general public. Most consumers think that<br />
HVE is the first step towards organic, whereas it is<br />
different and complementary”.<br />
PREPARATIONS AT DOMAINE VINCENT WENGIER<br />
THE VINEYARDS AT DOMAINE ANGST<br />
VIGNOBLE ANGST:<br />
A COUPLE WITH A MISSION<br />
Céline and Antoine Angst use every opportunity<br />
to prove their commitment to the environment.<br />
Although they do not come from a family of winegrowers,<br />
the couple founded Vignoble Angst in 2013.<br />
The vineyard has been converting to organic since<br />
2020 and is certified HVE. The aim is to turn the<br />
spotlight on Burgundy’s terroir through a varied<br />
range of wines, embracing Chablis, white and rosé<br />
Burgundy, Irancy and Crémant de Bourgogne.<br />
“Farming vines sustainably is a no-brainer for us”,<br />
explains Céline Angst. “We produce terroir-driven<br />
wines as simply as possible in stainless steel tanks<br />
to express the minerality of soils that are different<br />
to those in other regions, with as few inputs<br />
as possible. This is also a bonus in export markets,<br />
adding value to the product. For example, we have<br />
been selling to Canada for a year because of our<br />
switch-over to organic. Our buyers no longer take<br />
on new partners who don’t have the endorsement”.<br />
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BURGUNDY<br />
ENDORSEMENTS<br />
DOMAINE CAMILLE ET LAURENT<br />
SCHALLER:<br />
ICONIC GRAPE VARIETIES<br />
LAURENT AND CAMILLE SCHALLER IN THEIR VINEYARDS<br />
Set in the heart of Chablis, the village of Préhy<br />
attracts many tourists for its spectacular views<br />
out over the hillsides and Sainte-Claire church,<br />
surrounded by vineyards. Laurent Shaller and his<br />
son Camille grow three iconic Burgundy grape<br />
varieties over 18 hectares – Chardonnay, Aligoté<br />
and Pinot noir. The vines are planted on clay-limestone<br />
soil, typical of Chablis, instilling the<br />
wines with finesse, minerality and purity. The<br />
wine is matured in temperature-controlled stainless<br />
steel tanks or barrels on fine lees. In 2020, the<br />
estate was awarded High Environmental Value<br />
certification. “In 2014, after I joined the family<br />
business, we started vinting and marketing our<br />
own wine”, recalls Camille Schaller. “The endorsement<br />
recognises the estate’s commitment to<br />
environmentally-friendly techniques, fostering a<br />
low-impact approach to biodiversity and minimal<br />
reliance on inputs”.<br />
FRÉDÉRIC FÉRY IN FRONT OF THE ENTRANCE TO DOMAINE JEAN FÉRY & FILS<br />
DOMAINE JEAN FÉRY & FILS:<br />
WHEN DIVERSITY BECOMES<br />
AN ADVANTAGE<br />
Set between the legendary towns of Beaune and<br />
Nuits-Saint-Georges, Domaine Jean Féry & Fils’ 30<br />
hectares of vines are spread from the North to the<br />
South of Burgundy. Embracing a mosaic of ‘climats’<br />
or vineyard sites, the estate produces 22 different<br />
appellations, offering a skilful testimony to the<br />
region’s diversity. After taking over from his parents<br />
in 1988, Jean-Louis Féry sought to give his estate<br />
the resources to grow and invested in renovation<br />
work and buying vineyards. The estate switched<br />
to organic viticulture in 2011 and its staff is unfailing<br />
in its efforts to energise the property under<br />
the guidance of Jean-Louis’ two sons, Frédéric and<br />
Laurent. “Our wines are the authentic expression<br />
of the ‘climats’ for our 30 white and red wines”,<br />
explains Frédéric Féry. “Being certified organic since<br />
2011 is a fundamental pillar of our strategy focusing<br />
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BURGUNDY<br />
ENDORSEMENTS<br />
A SUPERB LOCATION FOR GROWING VINES AT DOMAINE JEAN FÉRY & FILS<br />
on quality and respect for nature and our soils. In practice, it involves more work. For example,<br />
we only use machine tillage or annual digging for our soils. Work throughout the growing season<br />
is constant”. Every year, an audit is required to check that in-house rules are working properly.<br />
“From an economic perspective, the operating cost of farming organically is estimated to be 30 to<br />
40% higher than for conventional techniques”, says Laurent Féry. “We have seen renewed appeal<br />
and demand since the switch-over. The endorsement is recognised by French and international<br />
wine enthusiasts and is an advantage for exports, particularly to Europe and Asia”.<br />
HVE, AN ENDORSEMENT VERY POPULAR WITH WINEGROWERS<br />
Ten years after its inception in 2012, the High Environmental Value trust mark has piqued the<br />
interest of many Burgundy winegrowers who have made environmental issues a core focus of<br />
their businesses. Certification applications are developing in a logical, thoughtful way. However,<br />
the endorsement remains inherently French and is not necessarily a selling point in export<br />
markets, despite the fact that it costs more to implement than conventional techniques. HVE<br />
is still unfamiliar to consumers outside France, although it is starting to gain genuine traction,<br />
particularly in Scandinavia. Though part of a positive drive towards more earth-friendly<br />
practices, the downside of the schemes is that they expose vineyards more to adverse weather<br />
conditions and lead to greater vintage variation in the wines, which can seem less consistent and<br />
standardised from one year to the next. This can, obviously, be seen as an advantage and HVE is<br />
viewed as a sign of professionalism and a genuine commitment to the future. In the specific case<br />
of Burgundy, there is an expectation by consumers that growers will farm responsibly, mirroring<br />
the level of quality and reputation of the wines. This type of endorsement therefore offers<br />
a purposeful solution for meeting these expectations.<br />
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VERMOUTH MAKES<br />
A MAJOR COMEBACK<br />
IN SPAIN<br />
BY ISABELLE ESCANDE<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS:<br />
COURTESY OF THE ESTATES<br />
“Fem un vermut?” In Catalonia, an invitation to “have a vermouth” has a much<br />
broader meaning than simply the drink itself. That’s because vermouth time<br />
is an almost sacred ritual where friends gather around a glass of vermouth (or<br />
other drinks depending on everyone’s tastes), before lunch, with crisps and a few<br />
olives. The atmosphere is one of casual engagement, shared by everyone, young<br />
and old.<br />
PADRÓ & CO SUPPLIES A VARIED RANGE OF VERMOUTHS, EACH WITH ITS OWN DISTINCTIVE CHARACTER<br />
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SPAIN<br />
TRENDING<br />
BODEGA PADRÓ & CO CARRIES OUT ITS OWN NATURAL INFUSIONS<br />
I<br />
t has to be said that since it was introduced in the 19th century, vermouth has<br />
always been a staple of bars across Spain. Invented in the Turin region of Italy,<br />
and initially sold as a medicinal drink, it is named after one of the plants that<br />
gives it its typical bitter flavour – Artemisia (wormwood) aka ‘wermut’ in German.<br />
Vermouth is, more often than not, a white, fairly neutral wine fortified with spirits<br />
and infused with a wide variety of herbs, roots and spices – such as Artemisia,<br />
oregano, orange peel, chamomile, cinnamon and vanilla – that give it its warm,<br />
aromatic feel.<br />
All of this makes it an obvious favourite with bartenders. With its wonderfully<br />
complex flavours and bitter yet sweet style, it would soon become their go-to<br />
choice. Vermouth-based cocktails flourished, including the Manhattan, Negroni<br />
and Americano, opening many doors for Spanish bodegas which now export<br />
across the globe to countries like Germany, Chile, Switzerland, the United States,<br />
Canada, Australia and Cameroon. The bodegas have developed a long, varied list<br />
of customers.<br />
But the mixology boom that has swept across the bar world over the past few<br />
years – taking vermouth with it – has not just opened up markets internationally<br />
for Spanish firms. It has transformed consumption of vermouth in Spain itself.<br />
Although it never disappeared from the bar scene, it did become a little dated.<br />
Now, though, it has made a major comeback and has been given its own special<br />
occasion referred to above. Cultural events where vermouth now takes pride of<br />
place are legion and festivals with no vermouth concert are few and far between.<br />
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SPAIN<br />
TRENDING<br />
A MODERN TWIST<br />
MARIO GARCÍA, WINEMAKER AT BODEGA PADRÓ & CO<br />
THE PADRÓ FAMILY HAS BEEN MAKING WINE AND VERMOUTH SINCE THE 19 TH CENTURY<br />
Although deeply entrenched in Spanish social life,<br />
the way vermouth is now enjoyed has changed and<br />
is slightly more sophisticated than it once was.<br />
It is still drunk neat, occasionally with a dash of<br />
sparkling water from a soda siphon, but is now<br />
served on large ice cubes with a slice of orange and<br />
an olive. The influence of the mixology trend has<br />
given it a new twist. Also, it has gradually made its<br />
way onto the tables of acclaimed restaurants. “The<br />
public is increasingly willing to try vermouth and<br />
food pairings”, explains Louise Jorgensen from<br />
Bodega Padró & Co<br />
Although the success of mixology partly explains<br />
vermouth’s present-day popularity, another<br />
important factor is the engagement by younger<br />
generations who have embraced a drink associated<br />
with their grandparents. Its artisanal production<br />
techniques meet their standards and their taste<br />
for sensitively produced beverages using entirely<br />
natural ingredients. Young consumers also have<br />
a penchant for lower alcohol appetisers, and with<br />
an ABV ranging from 14.5 to 22%, vermouth fits<br />
the bill. But it’s probably vermouth’s creative side<br />
that has drawn in new consumers keen to indulge<br />
their love of freedom and inventiveness. Vermouth<br />
is inherently an exercise in style with only vaguely<br />
defined rules. Each bodega has its own recipe<br />
which is a closely guarded secret. From the choice<br />
of aromatic plants to the base wine or maturation<br />
techniques, each has its own formula based on<br />
its history and preferences. Consequently, every<br />
vermouth tasting is full of surprises, and our selection<br />
illustrates this to perfection!<br />
PADRÓ & CO, KEEPING IT<br />
IN THE FAMILY<br />
The starting point for what would become a<br />
successful family venture dates back to 1886.<br />
The fifth generation is now at the helm of the<br />
winery, which is located near Tarragona. Since<br />
2016, it has been exporting its vermouths to<br />
Belgium, Germany, the United States, Canada,<br />
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SPAIN<br />
TRENDING<br />
Great Britain, Switzerland and, until the beginning<br />
of this year, to Russia, says Louise Jorgensen,<br />
the winery’s export manager.<br />
The company’s success owes much to the quality<br />
of its vermouths. “From the vine through to the<br />
bottle, everything is done at the bodega”, explains<br />
Jorgensen, giving it control over every stage of<br />
production. The vermouths spend lengthy periods<br />
maturing in barrels and are made traditionally yet<br />
still sport colourful, innovative designs, which act<br />
as a magnet for new generations and newbies.<br />
The market has definitely grown in recent years,<br />
comments Jorgensen. In some countries, such as<br />
Great Britain, vermouth bars have been established,<br />
giving consumers access to a wider choice<br />
of vermouths, but also to different ways of savouring<br />
them. While the connection with mixology<br />
is still strong, vermouth is increasingly enjoyed<br />
as a stand-alone drink. “But there is still a long<br />
way to go to introduce the world to vermouth as<br />
it is drunk in Spain”, concludes Jorgensen. The<br />
company certainly seems to have a full agenda<br />
ahead.<br />
IN ADDITION TO ITS VERMOUTHS, DE MULLER<br />
ALSO PRODUCES A VARIED RANGE OF WINES<br />
DE MULLER, THE AUTHENTIC<br />
REUS VERMOUTH<br />
Although Bodega de Muller was founded in<br />
1999 through the acquisition of a long-standing<br />
Reus wine company, the recipe for its vermouth<br />
dates back to 1904. Since then it has remained<br />
unchanged and is made from a combination<br />
of around 150 carefully selected Mediterranean<br />
flowers, roots and aromatic plants. “Wormwood<br />
is the main ingredient», explains Elisabet Juncosa,<br />
the winery’s export manager. All the ingredients<br />
are macerated in neutral white wine.<br />
Three versions of vermouth are produced. The<br />
red is spicier while the white is more lemony and<br />
fruity. The ‘reserva’ is matured using the Solera<br />
technique in used casks that have previously<br />
contained wine. It is drunk on the rocks with a<br />
slice of orange (for the red) or lemon (for the<br />
white). This is a classic which, down the generations,<br />
has always had a following.<br />
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PERUCCHI WAS THE FIRST VERMOUTH<br />
CREATED IN SPAIN IN 1876<br />
AT THE TURN OF THE 20 TH CENTURY,<br />
VERMOUTH WAS EXTREMELY POPULAR IN SPAIN<br />
“Although international sales have increased since 2008”, recounts Juncosa, “sales<br />
have always remained more or less stable in Spain, where the vermouth culture<br />
is well-established”. The tradition is now being exported, according to Bodega De<br />
Muller, to the United States, Australia, Ecuador and even Cameroon!<br />
PERUCCHI, THE PIONEER<br />
“In the mid-19 th century, Augustus Perucchi was the first to produce vermouth in<br />
Spain”, says the company’s co-owner Alex Soler. Since then, little has changed within<br />
the walls of the bodega, which is located in Badalona, not far from Barcelona. Modern<br />
labelling and bottling machines have superseded the techniques of yesteryear, but<br />
the antique boilers and barrels are still there. Most importantly, the recipe has not<br />
changed either. “It is the company’s most highly guarded secret”, quips Soler.<br />
To make the tradition even more relevant, each bottle of Perucchi contains a small<br />
percentage of vermouth that is over 150 years old. The company’s hand-crafted<br />
vermouths are made from natural ingredients and guaranteed to be preservative<br />
and antioxidant-free. More than 50 varieties of herbs, fruits and roots are used for<br />
the maceration process. “It’s all about balancing these ingredients,» explains Soler.<br />
The slightest change in proportions would break up the harmony of flavour.<br />
Though mindful of tradition, the company also moves with the times and makes a<br />
point of using environmentally-friendly materials, particularly its cork stoppers with<br />
wooden heads. And as an added guarantee of quality, Perucchi is a purveyor to the<br />
Spanish royal family...<br />
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SPAIN<br />
TRENDING<br />
YZAGUIRRE, VERY POPULAR<br />
YZAGUIRRE VERMOUTHS ARE PRODUCED TRADITIONALLY AND CRAFTED BY HAND<br />
Founded in 1884 near Tarragona, Yzaguirre is<br />
one of Spain’s oldest companies. It can rightfully<br />
claim to produce one of the country’s most<br />
widely drunk vermouths. Since its inception,<br />
Yzaguirre has stood out for the quality of its<br />
drinks, which are entirely crafted by hand based<br />
on a recipe that is kept secret.<br />
“Everything is done at the bodega, with each<br />
stage of the production process strictly monitored.<br />
This starts with the painstaking selection<br />
of wines”, points out export area manager Ruben<br />
Canalda. Then come the famous blends of plants<br />
and spices produced for infusion, and finally<br />
barrel maturation.<br />
One of Yzaguirre’s defining features today is its<br />
variety of products, from Clásico, Rosé and Dry<br />
Reserva to Herbal Vintage, to name a few. There<br />
is something for every taste and every occasion,<br />
underscoring the fact that vermouth is much<br />
more than just an aperitif!<br />
DUBBED ‘THE WINE CATHEDRAL’, THE FALSET MARCA CO-OPERATIVE<br />
IS LOCATED IN FALSET, THE CAPITAL OF PRIORAT<br />
COOPERATIVA FALSET MARÇÀ,<br />
COMBINING TRADITION<br />
AND MODERNITY<br />
Founded in 1919, the Falset Marca co-operative<br />
cannot be missed with its impressive modernist<br />
architecture. It is one of the ‘wine cathedrals’<br />
designed by Catalan architect Cèsar Martinell,<br />
an admirer of Antoni Gaudí. Since its beginnings,<br />
it has established a name for its wines<br />
and vermouths.<br />
True to tradition, the co-operative now makes<br />
three vermouths whose century-old recipe has<br />
been passed down through generations of the<br />
bodega’s winemakers. “They stem from a skilful<br />
fusion of elements”, explains Núria Vilanova,<br />
the co-operative’s communications manager. “A<br />
flavourful bitter touch in good wine”, produced<br />
by infusing more than one hundred and twenty<br />
aromatic plants, all from the region.<br />
These are all carefully matured, particularly the<br />
Vermut Reserva, which is aged for two years in<br />
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BODEGAS NODUS PRODUCES ITS VERMOUTHS FROM ITS OWN WINES<br />
MADE FROM NATIVE GRAPE VARIETIES<br />
ADOLFO DE LAS HERAS POLO SUCCEEDED HIS<br />
FATHER AT THE HELM OF BODEGAS NODUS<br />
large, century-old barrels and a further three years in French oak, so that its<br />
aromas of thyme, rosemary and green walnuts develop into notes of coffee,<br />
vanilla and tobacco. “This is a complex pour, best enjoyed on its own, with a few<br />
ice cubes”, recommends Vilanova.<br />
BODEGAS NODUS,<br />
THE MEDITERRANEAN TOUCH<br />
With its 540 hectares of vines and woodland located in one of the top areas in the<br />
Utiel-Requena appellation (Valencia), Bodega Nodus only began making vermouth<br />
five years ago, with a focus on creating a different type of vermouth with distinctive<br />
freshness and a Mediterranean accent.<br />
Two native grape varieties, obviously grown on the estate, were used to produce<br />
the new drink. These are Macabeu for the white vermouth and Bobal for the red<br />
iteration, which lends the nose aromas of Mediterranean herbs, citrus fruits, cloves<br />
and cardamom.<br />
“These aromatic plants are absolutely key to producing a good vermouth”, claims<br />
Marisa Donnan of Bodega Nodus. They have to be natural, more often than not<br />
dried, and can under no circumstances be replaced by artificial ingredients.<br />
“Otherwise, the vermouth would lose its aroma the minute it is served”, she adds.<br />
The complexity of the nose aromas is designed to carry through to the palate, with<br />
impeccably balanced bitterness and sweetness. The Bodega’s Descaro vermouth<br />
certainly ticks all the boxes!<br />
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ÁNGELA PARDO,<br />
THE WINEMAKER<br />
AT BODEGAS NODUS<br />
HISTORIC RIOJA BODEGA<br />
MARTÍNEZ LACUESTA<br />
LOCATED IN RIOJA<br />
ALTA, ALTANZA STEMS<br />
FROM A SHARED DREAM<br />
OF PRODUCING TOP<br />
QUALITY WINES<br />
SPRING 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
111
SPAIN<br />
TRENDING<br />
MARTÍNEZ LACUESTA,<br />
NOVEL MATURATION TECHNIQUES<br />
Renowned Rioja bodega, Martínez Lacuesta was established in 1895, but only<br />
began producing vermouth in 1937. And it has never looked back. Although<br />
it has held onto its original recipe and artisanal production methods, it has<br />
constantly tested new maturation combinations, using different wood casks,<br />
toasts and lengths of maturation. That’s what comes of being based in Rioja…<br />
Family-run since the outset, the company now markets its drinks in Spain, but<br />
also in the United States – its main import country – Australia, South Africa<br />
and Canada, explains Virginia Ibáñez, adding “mixology accounts for 90% of<br />
consumption abroad. Our main challenge is to demonstrate vermouth’s potential<br />
as a stand-alone appetiser and not as a cocktail ingredient”.<br />
The Bodega makes a point of constantly innovating, taking consumers by<br />
surprise and hitting the right note. It has certainly succeeded, with its barrel<br />
maturation and more recently its Extra Dry, a version with very little sweetness<br />
that aligns well with the latest consumer trends.<br />
THE COMPANY’S WINEMAKER ÁLVARO MARTÍNEZ DEL CASTILLO<br />
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SPAIN<br />
TRENDING<br />
ALTANZA, WHEN VERMOUTH<br />
RHYMES WITH RIOJA<br />
AND JEREZ<br />
CARLOS FERREIRO, THE WINEMAKER AT ALTANZA<br />
Located in the heart of Rioja Alta, Bodega Altanza<br />
made a lasting impression on the history of<br />
modern-day Spanish vermouth four years ago<br />
by launching a range of vermouths made from<br />
quality sherries in conjunction with the largest<br />
sherry collector in the world. The releases were<br />
an instant success and the idea has since been<br />
replicated by other wineries.<br />
The company’s Amillo vermouth comes in two<br />
versions made from a selection of sherries,<br />
olorosos and Pedro Jimenez. After blending,<br />
thirty or so aromatic plants, roots and flowers<br />
macerate in them. Slightly more herbaceous with<br />
a trace of sourness, the Reserva Especial matures<br />
for 14 months in French oak casks.<br />
Crafted with the utmost care, both Altanza<br />
labels have established a pedigree for sherry<br />
vermouths. “And that touch of sophistication<br />
is exactly what the younger generations like”,<br />
explains the winery’s Stephanie Abel Guardia.<br />
They show an interest in drinks that require a lot<br />
of attention during the production process and<br />
appreciate the kind of alchemy needed to craft<br />
vermouth. The countless commercially available<br />
mixology kits are a testament to this fascination.<br />
Vermouth now is synonymous with craftsmanship,<br />
rich aromatics and a dash of magic!<br />
IN 2029, BODEGAS ALVEAR WILL CELEBRATE ITS 300TH ANNIVERSARY<br />
BODEGAS ALVEAR,<br />
AN IMPRESSIVE ANDALUSIAN<br />
VERSION<br />
We now head for Andalusia, to the heart of the<br />
Montilla-Moriles appellation area. Founded<br />
in 1729, Alvear is now the region’s oldest, but<br />
also its most highly renowned winery. Down<br />
through the years, it has successfully proven<br />
what a versatile grape Pedro Ximenez – the king<br />
of local grape varieties – can be through a very<br />
varied range of wines, including Fino, Oloroso<br />
and dry white, to name a few.<br />
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113
LÉGENDES<br />
FERNANDO GIMÉNEZ ALVEAR, THE EIGHTH GENERATION<br />
OF THE ALVEAR FAMILY, IS NOW THE WINERY’S CEO<br />
SERGIO PANIAGUA, THE YOUNG<br />
GORDONZELLO WINEMAKER<br />
“At the end of the 19th century, the company began to create a vermouth –<br />
obviously from Pedro Ximenez – but it was only in 1955 that it produced the<br />
recipe that is used today”, says the winery’s Victor Arroyo.<br />
A closely guarded secret, the artisanal recipe is based on Pedro Ximenez<br />
Oloroso, painstakingly matured in very old American oak casks then<br />
macerated with a range of herbs, plants and spices including wormwood,<br />
rosemary, sage, sweet cinnamon and orange peel. And to provide its final<br />
softness, fresh and elegant Pedro Ximenez is added. It’s that Andalusian<br />
touch that makes all the difference!<br />
GORDONZELLO, A PROMISING START<br />
Now we come to the youngest vermouth in our selection. Just an infant, the<br />
vermouth by Bodegas Gordonzello, dubbed Pelirrojo, was presented this<br />
year. But it has already attracted attention with its innovative, laid-back<br />
look – a show-stopping red bottle with its slightly roguish label.<br />
Founded in 1995 by 101 winegrowers determined to give their old vines in<br />
Gordoncillo (León) a second chance and resurrect the local wine industry –<br />
that was in dire need of aid at the time – the winery has never been afraid<br />
of a challenge. Its young head winemaker Sergio Paniagua, who has only<br />
just turned 27, would certainly have to agree.<br />
Once again, the winery has proven this with its new-generation vermouth<br />
that is bound to appeal to a wide audience. The single varietal Verdejo<br />
vermouth – from the winery’s own vineyards, of course – is made from<br />
white wine macerated with around fifteen aromatic plants. This delicious<br />
pour provides further illustration of the fact that vermouth has a very bright<br />
future ahead.<br />
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CAMERON DIAZ:<br />
FROM ACTING TO<br />
MAKING WINE<br />
BY FRANK ROUSSEAU,<br />
OUR CORR<strong>ESP</strong>ONDENT<br />
IN THE UNITED STATES<br />
PHOTOGRAPHS:<br />
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED<br />
For the erstwhile heroine of ‘The Mask’, ‘Charlie’s Angels’ and ‘Something about<br />
Mary’, cinema is a thing of the past. After choosing to distance herself from a<br />
world of make-believe and rediscover a taste for the simpler things, it was only<br />
natural that Cameron Diaz should turn to producing wine. And just like the<br />
California belle herself, her wine certainly has character.<br />
Tell us about your close personal relationship<br />
with wine<br />
When I was 20 years old, I had a really unique experience.<br />
I got to taste an incredible wine and was able to hear<br />
experts talk about it. I was immediately fascinated by the world<br />
of wine because it very much revolved around passion and<br />
doing a job well, patience, tradition and the desire to strive for<br />
excellence. These are values that struck a chord with me!<br />
Almost twenty-five years on and here you are,<br />
making your own wine. How did that happen?<br />
My friend, Katherine Power – the founder of the fashion<br />
website Who What Wear – and I set out in 2014 to create an<br />
organic wine brand. Its name is Avaline. Right from the word<br />
go, our intention was clear and that was to provide lovers of<br />
local products with wines made from quality organic ingredients.<br />
For years, I just assumed that all wines were made<br />
from organic grapes. It never occurred to me that wine could<br />
be made from anything other than beautiful fruit! I can’t tell<br />
you how shocked I was to discover the ingredients that some<br />
wineries could add to it. We supply two types of wine, a white<br />
and a rosé. When we started our venture, we had absolutely<br />
no knowledge of how the industry worked. But we did know<br />
one thing. As lovers of fine wines, we were always surprised<br />
by the lack of transparency of certain labels. It was as if they<br />
were hiding what was in the bottle and therefore in our glasses!<br />
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115
STARS<br />
& WINE<br />
CAMERON DIAZ WITH KATHERINE POWER<br />
Avaline fully focuses on transparency…<br />
Yes, we don’t conceal anything. From the grapes to the glue on the labels and the<br />
products used to clean our facilities, our tanks, everything is organic and non-toxic.<br />
The problem in the industry is that you have brands that sometimes add 70 additives<br />
to make their wines longer on the palate, give them a more attractive colour... The<br />
craziest thing is that they don’t even have to tell you about it!<br />
Do you think that the public has expectations in this regard?<br />
People today want to know what they are paying for and what they are consuming.<br />
We really listen to our customers and our retailers, not to mention our winegrowers.<br />
We only work with people who love their job and have worked in the industry for<br />
generations. This is important because they only want one thing, and that is that<br />
their passion continues and shows respect for traditions. Their expertise and the<br />
values they share with us have enabled Katherine and I to provide quality wines –<br />
wines that are accessible and treat the environment and human beings with respect.<br />
You say that your wines are ‘vegan’. Isn’t that a bit of a marketing<br />
gimmick?<br />
It isn’t for customers who are and who want to be sure that the wine we supply them<br />
is 100% plant-based. It is not uncommon for winegrowers to use certain products to<br />
remove particles and residual yeast suspended in the wine. In the wine world, this<br />
is called clarification. Some wines contain gelatine, fish glue, egg white and even<br />
milk protein! At Avaline we want none of that!<br />
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CONTACT<br />
DETAILS<br />
BORDEAUX - Pages 10 - 24<br />
• Château Mongravey: Tel. +33 5 56 58 84 51 -<br />
www.chateau-mongravey.fr<br />
• Château de Villambis: Tel. +33 5 56 73 90 90 -<br />
www.chateaudevillambis.com<br />
• Uni-Médoc: Tel. +33 5 56 09 01 02 -<br />
www.uni-medoc.com<br />
• Château Rousseau de Sipian:<br />
Tel. +33 5 56 41 54 92 - http://vin-du-medoc.fr<br />
• Château de Malleret: Tel. +33 5 56 35 05 36 -<br />
www.chateau-malleret.fr<br />
• Vignobles Roux, Château Plagnac:<br />
Tel. 33 5 56 61 98 93 - www.vignobles-roux.com/<br />
RHONE VALLEY - Pages 26 - 36<br />
• Domaine du Bon Remède: Tel. +33 4 90 69 69 76 -<br />
domainedubonremede@orange.fr<br />
• Caves de Pazac: Tel. +33 4 66 57 59 95 -<br />
cavedepazac30@gmail.com<br />
• Château Isolette: Tel. +33 4 90 74 16 70 -<br />
contact@isolette.fr<br />
• Domaine de Tara: Tel. +33 4 90 05 74 87 -<br />
domainedetara@orange.fr<br />
• Domaine du Grand Jacquet:<br />
Tel. +33 4 90 63 24 87 - domaine@granjacquet.fr<br />
• Château Mourgues du Grès:<br />
Tel. +33 4 66 59 46 10 -<br />
chateau@mourguesdugres.com<br />
MUSCADET - Pages 37 - 45<br />
• Château de La Preuille P&C Dumortier:<br />
Tel. + 33 2 51 46 32 32 -<br />
chateaudelapreuille@gmail.com<br />
• Vignobles Véronique Günther-Chéreau:<br />
Tel. +33 2 40 54 85 24 - www.vgc.fr<br />
• Domaine des Iles: Tel. +33 2 51 34 54 38 -<br />
domainedesiles.fr@gmail.com<br />
• Château de l’Epinay: Tel. + 33 2 40 36 92 38 -<br />
www.muscadet-vignoblerobert.com<br />
• Domaine du Haut Fresne: Tel. +33 2 40 98 26 79 -<br />
www.renou-freres.com<br />
• Domaine Claude-Michel Pichon:<br />
Tel. +33 2 40 06 74 29 - cmpichon@orange.fr<br />
ITALY - Pages 46 - 55<br />
• Ca’ del bosco: Tel. +39 030 7766111 -<br />
www.cadelbosco.com<br />
• Castello Bonomi: Tel. +39 030 7721015 -<br />
www.castellobonomi.it<br />
• La Boscaiola “Vigneti Cenci”:<br />
Tel. +39 030 7156386 - www.vigneticenci.com<br />
• Vezzoli Ugo: Tel. +39 030 738018 -<br />
www.vezzolifranciacorta.it<br />
• Cantine Biondelli : Tel. +39 331 1314144 -<br />
www.www.biondelli.com<br />
• Castel Faglia: Tel. +39 030 7751042 -<br />
www.castelfaglia.it<br />
GERMANY - Pages 56 - 65<br />
• Ruppertsberg Wine Cellar:<br />
Tel. +49 6326 962970 - www.ruppertsberger.de<br />
• Schönlaub: Tel. +49 6343 81 42 -<br />
https://weingut-schoenlaub.de/en/<br />
• Mohr: Tel. +39 6726 94 84 -<br />
http://www.weingut-mohr.de<br />
• Studier: Tel. +49 6237 977 280 -<br />
https://weingut-studier.de/<br />
• Einig-Zenzen: Tel. +49 2653 9907 24 -<br />
https://einig-zenzen.de/en/weinhandel-einigzenzen.html<br />
SPAIN - Pages 66 - 73<br />
• Bodegas La Granadilla: Tel. +34 645 871 429 -<br />
www.bodegaslagranadilla.es<br />
• Bodegas Francisco Casas: Tel. +34 980 698 032 -<br />
www.bodegascasas.com<br />
• Valdemonjas: Tel. +34 983 24 82 94 -<br />
www.valdemonjas.com<br />
• Bodegas Nexus: Tel. +34 983 88 04 88 -<br />
www.nexusfrontaura.com<br />
• Bodegas Santa Rufina: Tel. +34 638 123 703 -<br />
http://bodegassantarufina.com/<br />
SOUTH AFRICA - Pages 74 - 83<br />
• CapeWine: Tel: +27 21 883 3860 -<br />
www.capewine2022.com<br />
• Wines of South Africa: Tel: +27 21 883 3860 -<br />
www.wosa.co.za<br />
• Conservation Champions:<br />
www.wwf.org.za/our_work/initiatives/<br />
conservation_champions<br />
• La Motte Estate: Tel. +27 21 876 8000 -<br />
www.la-motte.com<br />
• Spier: Tel. +27 21 809 1143 - www.spier.co.za/wine<br />
CASTILLON - Pages 84 - 92<br />
• Seignouret frères & Cie: Tel. +33 5 57 87 02 56 -<br />
www.seignouret.com<br />
• Vignobles Alain Aubert: Tel. +33 5 57 40 15 76 -<br />
www.aubert-vignobles.com<br />
• Château Bréhat: Tel. +33 5 57 40 18 09 -<br />
www.haut-rocher.com/les-vins/chateau-brehat.<br />
html<br />
• Union de Producteurs de Saint-Emilion:<br />
Tel. +33 5 57 24 70 71 - www.udpse.com/<br />
BURGUNDY Pages 94 - 103<br />
• Domaine Jessiaume: Tel. +33 3 80 20 60 03 -<br />
www.jessiaume.com<br />
• Domaine Doreau: Tel. +33 3 80 21 27 89 -<br />
www.domaine-doreau.fr<br />
• Domaine Berger-Rive: Tel. +33 3 85 91 13 81 -<br />
www.berger-rive.fr<br />
• Domaine Yvon et Laurent Vocoret:<br />
Tel. +33 3 86 47 51 60 -<br />
www.yvon-laurent-vocoret.com<br />
• Domaine Vincent Wengier: Tel. +33 6 51 22 77 39 -<br />
www.chablis-wengier.fr<br />
• Vignoble Angst: Tel. +33 3 86 40 17 33 -<br />
www.vignobleangst.com<br />
• Domaine Camille et Laurent Schaller:<br />
Tel. +33 6 51 22 77 39 - www.chablis-schaller.com<br />
• Domaine Jean Féry & Fils:<br />
Tel. +33 3 80 21 59 60 - www.jeanfery.fr<br />
SPAIN - Pages 104 - 114<br />
• Padró & Co: Tel. +34 977 62 00 12 -<br />
ljorgensen@padroifamilia.com<br />
• De Muller: Tel. +34 977 757 473 -<br />
nacional@demuller.es<br />
• Perucchi: Tel. +34 93 384 26 26 -<br />
info@perucchi1876.com<br />
• Yzaguirre: Tel. +34 977 840 655 -<br />
rcanalda@vermutyzaguirre.com<br />
• Cooperativa Falset Marçà: Tel. +34 977 830 105 -<br />
nuria@etim.cat<br />
• Bodegas Nodus: Tel. +34 962 174 029 -<br />
marisa@bodegasnodus.com<br />
• Martínez Lacuesta: Tel. +34 941 310 050 -<br />
bodega@martinezlacuesta.com<br />
• Altanza: Tel. +34 941 450 860 -<br />
altanza@altanza.com<br />
• Bodegas Alvear: Tel. +34 957 650 100 -<br />
comercial@alvear.es<br />
• Gordonzello: Tel. +34 987 758 030 -<br />
info@gordonzello.com<br />
AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
117
PAGES 119 TO 130<br />
TOP WINES<br />
OUR AUTUMN SELECTION<br />
The third session of 2022<br />
Once again, the third session of tastings was very promising with wines running the gamut<br />
from new discoveries, reliable choices and the classics to more exotic and rare offerings but<br />
also the household names. Countless producer countries now take part, confirming day after<br />
day the Gilbert & Gaillard International Challenge’s virtually global reach.<br />
TYPICAL COUNTRYSIDE IN THE FRANCIACORTA REGION AND APPELLATION IN LOMBARDY (VIGNETI CENCI).<br />
THE BEST OF AUTUMN 2022<br />
Our selection for this quarter takes you on a journey to Bordeaux, Castilla y León, the Western Cape and<br />
Lombardy. We turn the spotlight on Crus Bourgeois, the major category of Bordeaux wine which in 2020<br />
gained a newly minted classification. We also celebrate wines from Ribera del Duero, Cigales, Toro and<br />
Rueda, some absolute gems from a Spanish region which is increasingly gaining traction. Find out which<br />
are South Africa’s most earth-friendly wines in our extensive selection of organic and sustainable offerings,<br />
and learn more about Franciacorta and its delectable sparkling wines, probably Italy’s finest.<br />
THE TASTING PANEL:<br />
PHILIPPE GAILLARD - FRANÇOIS GILBERT - SYLVAIN PATARD<br />
OLIVIER DELORME - JAMES TURNBULL - BRUNO MICHAL - MATTHIEU GAILLARD - FRANÇOIS BEZUIDENHOUT<br />
118 AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
FRANCE - MÉDOC<br />
OUR AUTUMN SELECTION<br />
FRANCE<br />
Crus Bourgeois are back, bolstered<br />
by their new classification released<br />
in 2020. Below is our selection of<br />
21 chateaux whose prices are as<br />
appealing as their flavour!<br />
BORDEAUX<br />
HAUT-MÉDOC<br />
CHÂTEAU MARTIN 92/100<br />
D VINTAGE 2016: Intense garnet with<br />
some bricking. Splendid, Médoc-style<br />
nose of blackcurrant, plum, coffee, fine<br />
spices and a toast touch. The palate is rich<br />
and full-bodied, combining freshness and<br />
elegance. A beautiful classic wine, nearing<br />
its peak. Set aside for the Sunday roast.<br />
Price: € 8.50<br />
Château Martin +33 5 56 41 97 29<br />
CHÂTEAU DE MALLERET 91/100<br />
CONV D VINTAGE 2019: Darkly coloured<br />
with young, vibrant red reflections. Intense<br />
nose with fruit tones underscored by<br />
elegant oakiness. The same noble structure<br />
and aromas flow through to the palate.<br />
A wine with good breed and undeniable<br />
potential.<br />
http://www.chateau-malleret.fr Price: € 25.50<br />
Château de Malleret +33 5 56 35 05 36<br />
CHÂTEAU GRAND CLAPEAU OLIVIER<br />
89/100<br />
D VINTAGE 2018<br />
Price: € 10.00<br />
Château Grand Clapeau Olivier +33 5 56 95 00 89<br />
CHÂTEAU DE VILLAMBIS 87/100<br />
CONV D VINTAGE 2018<br />
http://www.chateaudevillambis.com Price: € 10.50<br />
Château de Villambis +33 5 56 73 90 90<br />
CHÂTEAU ANEY 86/100<br />
D VINTAGE 2013<br />
http://www.vignobles.fayat.com Price: € 10.00<br />
Vignobles Clément Fayat +33 5 57 51 31 36<br />
CHÂTEAU MURET 86/100<br />
D VINTAGE 2018<br />
http://www.chateau-muret.com Price: € 10.00<br />
Château Muret +33 5 56 59 38 11<br />
CHÂTEAU TROIS MOULINS 86/100<br />
CR D VINTAGE 2017<br />
http://www.cambon-la-pelouse.com Price: € 8.00<br />
Cambon la Pelouse +33 5 57 88 40 32<br />
MARGAUX<br />
CHÂTEAU MONGRAVEY 91/100<br />
D VINTAGE 2018: Intense garnet<br />
with youthful highlights. Shy yet racy<br />
nose suffused with fine spice and fruit<br />
layered over toasted oak. Elegant, tense,<br />
concentrated palate that is not very open<br />
yet but delivers admirable intensity<br />
and extremely refined tannins. A very<br />
promising Margaux.<br />
http://www.chateau-mongravey.fr Price: € 18.00<br />
Château Mongravey +33 5 56 58 84 51<br />
MÉDOC<br />
CHÂTEAU DE LA CROIX 92/100<br />
CR D VINTAGE 2019: Deep ruby-red with<br />
crimson reflections. Alluring nose of red<br />
and black fruits with white pepper notes.<br />
The palate is powerful and balanced with<br />
velvety tannins that are already very soft.<br />
Great peppery freshness on the finish.<br />
Serve with grilled meats.<br />
http://www.chateau-de-la-croix.com Price: € 11.00<br />
Château de la Croix +33 5 56 09 04 14<br />
THE EXTENSIVE TANK ROOM AT CHÂTEAU DE MALLERET IN LE PIAN-MÉDOC.<br />
AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
119
FRANCE - MOULIS<br />
OUR AUTUMN SELECTION<br />
CHÂTEAU ROUSSEAU DE SIPIAN IN ITS TYPICAL MÉDOC SETTING. ©CLAUDE CLIN<br />
CHÂTEAU DES TOURELLES 90/100<br />
D VINTAGE 2020: Concentrated red with<br />
ruby reflections. Delicately oaky nose with<br />
sloe and blackcurrant taking the lead role,<br />
along with sweet spices. The palate shows<br />
sappy weight supported by supple tannins,<br />
elegant oakiness and noble fruit. Young<br />
and promising.<br />
Price: € 10.00<br />
Macrolink France +33 5 56 09 00 10<br />
CHÂTEAU GREYSAC 90/100<br />
CR D VINTAGE 2012: Beautiful deep<br />
colour with faint bricking. The nose is<br />
more mature with humus and forest floor<br />
tones. The palate is balanced, very ripe and<br />
ready to drink, revealing tertiary aromas<br />
that lovers of the style will enjoy. Drink<br />
now.<br />
http://www.rollandeby.com Price: € 15.00<br />
Domaines Rollan de By +33 5 56 41 58 59<br />
CHÂTEAU PLAGNAC 90/100<br />
D VINTAGE 2018: Dark, bright, young<br />
red. Profound, fruit-forward nose with<br />
a subtle mineral and oaky tone in the<br />
background. The palate shows good<br />
weight and freshness. Aroma is perfectly<br />
showcased within a harmonious structure.<br />
http://www.vignobles-roux.com/<br />
Vignobles Roux +33 5 56 61 98 93<br />
CHÂTEAU LA GORRE 89/100<br />
D VINTAGE 2016<br />
http://www.savas-sa.fr<br />
vSavas +33 5 56 92 62 96<br />
CHÂTEAU LA FLEUR LAMOTHE<br />
88/100<br />
D VINTAGE 2016<br />
http://www.chateaufleurlamothe.fr Price: € 14.00<br />
Château Fleur La Mothe +33 5 56 62 35 01<br />
CHÂTEAU LA GORRE 88/100<br />
D VINTAGE 2019<br />
http://www.millesium.net Price: € 12.00<br />
Château La Gorre +33 5 56 41 52 62<br />
CHÂTEAU L’ARGENTEYRE 88/100<br />
D VINTAGE 2020<br />
Price: € 9.00<br />
Vignobles Reich +33 5 56 41 52 34<br />
CHÂTEAU BESSAN SÉGUR 87/100<br />
D VINTAGE 2016<br />
http://www.sovex-grandschateaux.com Price: € 7.99<br />
Sovex Grandschateaux +33 5 56 77 81 00<br />
CHÂTEAU DE PANIGON 87/100<br />
D VINTAGE 2017<br />
Price: € 12.00<br />
DWL France +33 5 56 41 37 00<br />
CHÂTEAU GRAVAT 87/100<br />
D VINTAGE 2017<br />
http://www.chevalquancard.com<br />
Cheval Quancard +33 5 57 77 88 88<br />
CHÂTEAU GRAVAT 86/100<br />
D VINTAGE 2016<br />
http://www.ymau.com Price: € 6.00<br />
Yvon Mau +33 5 56 61 54 54<br />
MOULIS<br />
CHÂTEAU BISTON-BRILLETTE 90/100<br />
D VINTAGE 2019: Deep ruby-red with<br />
crimson tints. Nose of ripe black fruits<br />
with touches of violet and graphite.<br />
Powerful, silky palate with harnessed,<br />
well-integrated tannins. Cellar for a few<br />
years or decant before serving.<br />
http://www.chateaubistonbrillette.com Price: € 18.50<br />
Château Biston-Brillette +33 5 56 58 22 86<br />
120 AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
ITALY - FRANCIACORTA D.O.C.G.<br />
OUR AUTUMN SELECTION<br />
ITALY<br />
Delve deep into the heart of an Italian<br />
wine region whose size has kept it<br />
slightly under the radar.<br />
Tune your senses into Franciacorta<br />
and its exquisite sparkling wines.<br />
LOMBARDY<br />
FRANCIACORTA D.O.C.G.<br />
BIONDELLI 94/100<br />
ORG D PAS DOSÉ - PREMIÈRE DAME 2015:<br />
Yellow-gold. Nose of dill, resin, toast and<br />
white flower infusion accented by pear,<br />
apple and stewed peach. The palate is<br />
delicious and very fleshy with a generous<br />
aromatic edge. Ample finish and delicate<br />
texture. A benchmark.<br />
http://www.biondelli.com Price: € 35.00<br />
Cantine Biondelli +39 0307 75 9896<br />
BIONDELLI 93/100<br />
ORG D BRUT SATEN : Bright yellowgold.<br />
Nose of dried fruits, stone fruits,<br />
green fruits and a note of flower honey.<br />
Invigorating palate where vinosity is<br />
harnessed by freshness. Saline finish with<br />
complex aromatics. A generous, mouthwatering<br />
wine for a romantic dinner.<br />
http://www.biondelli.com Price: € 25.00<br />
Cantine Biondelli +39 0307 75 9896<br />
BORGO LA GALLINACCIA 93/100<br />
D EXTRA BRUT RISERVA GIACHESEILI’ 2011:<br />
Straw-gold. Creamy pastry feel on the nose<br />
with very mouth-watering tropical fruit.<br />
The palate is delightful yet still shows<br />
genuine complexity of flavour. Delicate<br />
bubbles provide supple, fresh guidance in<br />
this inclusive Extra Brut wine.<br />
http://www.borgolagallinaccia.it Price: € 40.00<br />
Borgo La Gallinaccia +39 0306 81 0391<br />
CASTELLO BONOMI 93/100<br />
D EXTRA BRUT - RISERVA LUCREZIA<br />
- ETICHETTA NERA 2008: Light yellow.<br />
Delicate nose marrying stone fruits,<br />
peach, toast and floral touches. Rounded,<br />
ample, vinous palate with well-integrated<br />
effervescence delivering effusive racy,<br />
complex aromas. Deliciously soft<br />
mouthfeel. A real treat.<br />
http://www.paladin.it/ Price: € 85.00<br />
Paladin +39 0422 76 8167<br />
LA BOSCAIOLA - VIGNETI CENCI 93/100<br />
D ZERO - NO DOSAGE : Brilliant yellowgold.<br />
Generous nose intermixing white<br />
fruits and dried fruits, almond, milky and<br />
brioche-like notes. Rich, vinous, lively<br />
palate where the aromatics are enhanced by<br />
spice and mineral notes. This distinguished<br />
wine offers up great complexity.<br />
http://www.laboscaiola.com Price: € 26.00<br />
La Boscaiola - Vigneti Cenci +39 0307 15 6386<br />
LA BOSCAIOLA - VIGNETI CENCI 93/100<br />
D EXTRA BRUT NELSON CENCI : Beautiful<br />
pale yellow-gold with brilliant highlights<br />
and very fine bubbles. Appealing nose of<br />
flowers and white fruits with a toasted<br />
brioche note. Clean, satisfying palate<br />
revealing superb preserved lemon notes<br />
then fine sourness on the finish. Drink as<br />
an aperitif.<br />
http://www.laboscaiola.com Price: € 30.00<br />
La Boscaiola - Vigneti Cenci +39 0307 15 6386<br />
BORGO LA GALLINACCIA 91/100<br />
D BRUT SATENASSO 2016: Brilliant light<br />
gold. Delicate brioche-like nose with<br />
white flower, citrus fruit and ripe peach<br />
aromas. Freshness provides a great frame<br />
for the palate which is gifted with a creamy<br />
mellow feel and fleshy fruit score. Very<br />
comfortable, structured finish. Beautiful.<br />
http://www.borgolagallinaccia.it Price: € 28.00<br />
Borgo La Gallinaccia +39 0306 81 0391<br />
CASTELLO BONOMI (PALADIN) AND ITS TYPICAL FRANCIACORTA SCENERY.<br />
CASTEL FAGLIA 91/100<br />
D BRUT NATURE 2016: Bright, intense<br />
gold. The nose is an all-rounder, with<br />
pastry, floral, honeyed notes, nuts, white<br />
fruits and dried fruits. Very supple palate<br />
with silky effervescence and an energetic,<br />
smooth finish. This is a mouth-watering<br />
style for a romantic aperitif.<br />
http://www.castelfaglia.it Price: € 18.00<br />
Castel Faglia +39 0307 75 1042<br />
CASTELLO BONOMI 91/100<br />
D DOSA<strong>GG</strong>IO ZERO 2011: Light yellow.<br />
Generous nose intermixing fresh and dried<br />
white fruits, fine oxidative and floral notes<br />
and morello cherry. Full, soft, concentrated<br />
palate offering up a lovely harmonious<br />
feel. A beautiful wine showing splendid<br />
intensity and purity that works with<br />
shellfish.<br />
http://www.paladin.it/ Price: € 26.00<br />
Paladin +39 0422 76 8167<br />
CASTEL FAGLIA 90/100<br />
D BRUT SATÈN : Shimmering light gold.<br />
Lovely display of stewed white fruits,<br />
almond notes and white flower infusion.<br />
The palate is fresh and elegant with mouthfilling<br />
weight and delicate bubbles. The<br />
flavours are noble, expressive and mouthcoating.<br />
http://www.castelfaglia.it Price: € 15.00<br />
Castel Faglia +39 0307 75 1042<br />
AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
121
SOUTH AFRICA - CENTRAL ORANGE RIVER<br />
OUR AUTUMN SELECTION<br />
SOUTH AFRICA<br />
The South Africans have fully taken<br />
on board the fact that sustainability<br />
is an issue that goes way beyond the<br />
present times and is needed to save<br />
our future. Below are around one<br />
hundred earth-friendly wines from<br />
the Western Cape.<br />
NORTHERN CAPE<br />
CENTRAL ORANGE RIVER<br />
REGOPSTAAN 93/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2021: Light yellow.<br />
Grenadilla and litchi on the very fragrant<br />
nose. Palate is full, but elegant with<br />
gooseberry and a tangy note following<br />
the nose. Layered and complex. Excellent.<br />
Drink though 2029.<br />
http://www.orangeriverwines.com Price: € 9.00<br />
Orange River Cellars +27 54 337 8800<br />
OMSTAAN 92/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2021: Light yellow.<br />
Creamy nose with hints of vanilla. Ripe<br />
and full on the palate with creamy notes<br />
following from the nose. A tangy and<br />
crisp note on the long finish. Layered and<br />
complex. Drink through 2028.<br />
http://www.orangeriverwines.com Price: € 9.00<br />
Orange River Cellars +27 54 337 8800<br />
WESTERN CAPE<br />
JAKKALSVLEI 92/100<br />
D MOUNT CUVÉE 2022: Dark ruby colour.<br />
Ripe berry fruit on the nose complimented<br />
by toasty oak and soft tannins. Well<br />
integrated with a lengthy finish. Needs<br />
further cellaring, but enjoyable now.<br />
http://www,jakkalsvlei.co.za Price: € 9.00<br />
Jakkalsvlei Vineyards +27 44 333 0222<br />
BOSCHENDAL 91/100<br />
D BRUT ROSÉ NV: Attractive colour,<br />
energetic fine mousse. A medley of red<br />
berries offers an attractive nose, balanced<br />
residual sugar and acid. Refreshing<br />
mouthfeel and length. Will age well.<br />
http://www.dgb.co.za Price: € 10.52<br />
DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200<br />
16 MILE BEACH 90/100<br />
D ROOIPAN ROSÉ 2021: Very light onion<br />
skin. Red berry notes and candyfloss on<br />
the nose. Palate is elegant and layered<br />
with red cherry and raspberry following<br />
from the nose. Lengthy finish with a wellintegrated,<br />
but present acidity. Very well<br />
made. Drink through 2025.<br />
http://www.blakefamilywines.com Price: € 5.00<br />
Blake Family Wines +27 82 922 6162<br />
BOSCHENDAL 90/100<br />
D PRESTIGE CUVEÉ JEAN LE LONG 2009:<br />
Straw yellow in color with green rim.<br />
Toasted bread, yeasty, dried apple and pear<br />
on the bouquet. Excellent balance, grippy<br />
mid-palate with extended finish. Drink in<br />
the next year.<br />
http://www.dgb.co.za Price: € 58.43<br />
DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200<br />
KEN FORRESTER 90/100<br />
D THE GYPSY 2017: Ruby brick. Developed<br />
nose with hints of leather and dried fruit.<br />
Rich and full on the matured palate with<br />
red berry notes and prunes on the sour<br />
cherry finish. Layered and complex. Keep<br />
for a few more years.<br />
http://www.kenforresterwines.com Price: € 30.00<br />
Ken Forrester Wines +27 21 85 52 374<br />
BOSCHENDAL 89/100<br />
D BRUT NV<br />
http://www.dgb.co.za Price: € 10.52<br />
DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200<br />
MISCHA 89/100<br />
ORG D LA FAMILLE MERLOT 2021<br />
Price: € 5.58<br />
Mischa Estate +27 21 864 1020<br />
VINEYARD FRIENDS 89/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2021<br />
http://www.dgb.co.za Price: € 3.21<br />
DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200<br />
VINEYARD FRIENDS 89/100<br />
D CHENIN BLANC 2021:<br />
http://www.dgb.co.za Price: € 3.21<br />
DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200<br />
JAKKALSVLEI 88/100<br />
D MERLOT 2021<br />
http://www,jakkalsvlei.co.za Price: € 5.50<br />
Jakkalsvlei Vineyards +27 44 333 0222<br />
NEDERBURG WINEMASTERS 88/100<br />
D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020<br />
http://www.distell.co.za Price: € 2.00<br />
Distell +27 21 886 5640<br />
SIX HATS 88/100<br />
D SHIRAZ 2020<br />
http://www.piekenierskloofwines.co.za Price: € 3.75<br />
Piekenierskloof Wine Company +27 22 921 2233<br />
DEETLEFS 87/100<br />
D STONECROSS SHIRAZ 2020<br />
http://www.deetlefs.com Price: € 4.39<br />
Deetlefs Wine Estate +27 23 349 1260<br />
MISCHA 87/100<br />
ORG D ACCORDANCE 2021<br />
Price: € 8.23<br />
Mischa Estate +27 21 864 1020<br />
NAMYSTO 87/100<br />
D SHIRAZ CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2017<br />
http://www.quoinrock.com<br />
Quoin Rock +27 21 888 4740<br />
BIG MOUTH 86/100<br />
D LUSCIOUS WHITE<br />
http://www.overhex.com Price: € 3.80<br />
Overhex Wines +27 23 347 6838<br />
BOSCHENDAL 86/100<br />
D LUXE NECTAR NV<br />
http://www.dgb.co.za Price: € 10.52<br />
DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200<br />
LAND\’S END 86/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2020<br />
http://www.dutoitskloof.co.za Price: € 3.00<br />
Du Toitskloof Wines +27 23 349 1601<br />
DU TOITSKLOOF 85/100<br />
D MERLOT 2020<br />
http://www.dutoitskloof.co.za Price: € 3.00<br />
Du Toitskloof Wines +27 23 349 1601<br />
FRISKY ZEBRAS 85/100<br />
D GAME RANGER RESERVE SEDUCTIVE<br />
SHIRAZ NV<br />
https://www.leopard-frog.com/ Price: € 2.95<br />
Leopard Frog Vineyards +27 82 499 4995<br />
GAME RANGER RESERVE 85/100<br />
D SENSUOUS SAUVIGNON BLANC NV<br />
https://www.leopard-frog.com/ Price: € 2.95<br />
Leopard Frog Vineyards +27 82 499 4995<br />
VINEYARD FRIENDS 85/100<br />
D MERLOT MALBEC 2020<br />
http://www.dgb.co.za Price: € 3.51<br />
DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200<br />
122 AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
SOUTH AFRICA - ROBERTSON - BONNIEVALE<br />
OUR AUTUMN SELECTION<br />
VINEYARD FRIENDS 85/100<br />
D PINOTAGE 2020<br />
http://www.dgb.co.za Price: € 3.51<br />
DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200<br />
ALVI’S DRIFT 83/100<br />
D SIGNATURE PINOTAGE 2021<br />
Price: € 3.83<br />
Alvi’s Drift Cellar +27 81 331 2196<br />
ALVI’S DRIFT 82/100<br />
D SIGNATURE CABERNET SAUVIGNON<br />
2021<br />
Price: € 3.83<br />
Alvi’s Drift Cellar +27 81 331 2196<br />
WESTERN CAPE - BREEDE<br />
RIVER VALLEY<br />
BREEDEKLOOF<br />
DEETLEFS 90/100<br />
D METHODE CAP CLASSIQUE 2018:<br />
Light yellow. Subdued nose with hints of<br />
fresh lime. Palate is crisp and refreshing<br />
with fruit salad and quince on the finish.<br />
Complex and rich with a lengthy finish.<br />
Drink thorugh 2018.<br />
http://www.deetlefs.com Price: € 12.00<br />
Deetlefs Wine Estate +27 23 349 1260<br />
DEETLEFS 88/100<br />
D VOYAGE 3566.1 2018<br />
http://www.deetlefs.com Price: € 13.31<br />
Deetlefs Wine Estate +27 23 349 1260<br />
DEETLEFS 87/100<br />
D PINOTAGE 2018<br />
http://www.deetlefs.com Price: € 11.55<br />
Deetlefs Wine Estate +27 23 349 1260<br />
ROBERTSON<br />
BON COURAGE ESTATE 91/100<br />
D JACQUES BRUÉRE BRUT RESERVE 2013:<br />
Yellow straw. Smoky and toasty on the rich<br />
nose. Palate is lively and refreshing with a<br />
tangy lime peel note on the aftertaste. Fine<br />
mousse and a racy acidity that will help<br />
this wine to age. Drink through 2027.<br />
Price: € 13.66<br />
Bon courage Estate +27 23 626 4178<br />
LOZÄRN WINES 91/100<br />
D CABERNET FRANC 2021: Bright ruby<br />
red. Orange blossom, tea leaf, wild fig<br />
with hints of cinnamon, cedar wood and<br />
oak nuances. Firm grippy tannins to add<br />
to midpalate weight and length. Drink<br />
through to 2025. Excellent example of<br />
Cabernet Franc.<br />
Price: € 12.43<br />
Lozärn Wines +27 82 576 8093<br />
BON COURAGE ESTATE 89/100<br />
D JACQUES BRUÉRE CUVEÉ ROSÉ BRUT<br />
2013<br />
GUESTS AT LA MOTTE IN FRANSCHHOEK ARE INVITED TO SHARE THE ESTATE’S PASSION FOR<br />
Price: € 13.66<br />
Bon courage Estate +27 23 626 4178<br />
LOZÄRN WINES 88/100<br />
D CARMÉNËRE 2021<br />
Price: € 29.32<br />
Lozärn Wines +27 82 576 8093<br />
SUSTAINABILITY THROUGH DEDICATED EXPERIENCES.<br />
EXCELSIOR 86/100<br />
D CHARDONNAY 2022<br />
http://www.excelsior.co.za Price: € 2.46<br />
Excelsior Wine Estate +27 23 615 1980<br />
EXCELSIOR 82/100<br />
D PADDOCK SHIRAZ 2021<br />
http://www.excelsior.co.za Price: € 2.46<br />
Excelsior Wine Estate +27 23 615 1980<br />
ROBERTSON - BONNIEVALE<br />
WELTEVREDE 92/100<br />
D POET’S PRAYER 2021: Yellow straw.<br />
Citrus and vanilla on the rich nose. Palate is<br />
complex and layered with marmelade and<br />
citrus following from the nose. Lengthy<br />
and full on the finish. Drink through 2028.<br />
Price: € 25.00<br />
Weltevrede Estate +27 23 616 2141<br />
AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
123
SOUTH AFRICA - ELGIN<br />
OUR AUTUMN SELECTION<br />
WELTEVREDE 91/100<br />
D BRUT THE RING 2013: Yellow straw.<br />
Green apple and lime on the nose. Crisp<br />
acidity and a fine mousse on the racy palate<br />
with citrus notes folling on the aftertaste.<br />
Still very youthful.<br />
Price: € 13.00<br />
Weltevrede Estate +27 23 616 2141<br />
WESTERN CAPE - CAPE<br />
SOUTH COAST<br />
ELGIN<br />
EIKENDAL 92/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022: Light yellow.<br />
Green apple and asparagus on the fragrant<br />
nose. Crisp acidity with citrus, white peach<br />
and gooseberry. Tangy and lengthy on the<br />
finish. Drink through 2027.<br />
http://www.eikendal.com Price: € 12.00<br />
Eikendal Vineyards +27 21 855 1422<br />
ELGIN VINTNERS 91/100<br />
D CHARDONNAY 2022: Light straw.<br />
Smoky and toasty nose with hints of vanilla.<br />
Palate is rich and full with some citrus note<br />
and a slight hint of well-integrated oak<br />
following the nose. Layered and complex.<br />
Drink through 2028.<br />
https://www.elginvintners.co.za Price: € 15.00<br />
Elgin Vintners +27 21 848 9587<br />
BOSCHENDAL 90/100<br />
D GRAND CUVEÉ BRUT 2015: Energetic<br />
mousse, yellow apple, cranberry and<br />
touch of bread/yeasty character. Attractive<br />
balance on mid-palate. Overall impression<br />
of freshness and crisp acidity.<br />
http://www.dgb.co.za Price: € 17.53<br />
DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200<br />
SURVIVOR 89/100<br />
D TERROIR CHARDONNAY 2021<br />
http://www.overhex.com<br />
Overhex Wines +27 23 347 6838<br />
SURVIVOR 87/100<br />
D TERROIR SAUVIGNON BLANC 2021<br />
http://www.overhex.com<br />
Overhex Wines +27 23 347 6838<br />
WESTERN CAPE - COASTAL<br />
REGION<br />
CAPE TOWN<br />
GROOT PHESANTEKRAAL 91/100<br />
D BERLIET 2021: Deep ruby red with<br />
attractive purple rim. Dark mulberries and<br />
pomegranate freshness, complimented by<br />
spicy oak. Well integrated tannins. Will<br />
benefit from further cellaring.<br />
http://www.grootphesantekraal,co.za Price: € 12.46<br />
Groot Phesantekraal +27 21 825 0060<br />
GROOT PHESANTEKRAAL 90/100<br />
D MARIZANNE 2022: Light straw<br />
yellow. Tropical flavours carries through<br />
to a creamy mid-palate with pear and<br />
pineapple. Offers good length. Will benefit<br />
from further cellaring.<br />
http://www.grootphesantekraal,co.za Price: € 11.93<br />
Groot Phesantekraal +27 21 825 0060<br />
CAPE TOWN - PHILADELPHIA<br />
CAPAIA ONE 91/100<br />
D RED BLEND 2019: Deep garnet. Tealeaf<br />
and dark berry on the rich nose. Grippy<br />
on the full palate with dark fruit and plum<br />
on the lengthy finish. Made to age. Drink<br />
through 2029.<br />
Price: € 8.00<br />
Capaia Wine Estate +27 21 972 1081<br />
CAPAIA 88/100<br />
D CAPAIA SHIRAZ 2019<br />
Price: € 8.59<br />
Capaia Wine Estate +27 21 972 1081<br />
COASTAL REGION<br />
BOSCHENDAL 93/100<br />
D THE NICOLAS 2019: Dark plum.<br />
Cassis, dark mulberries of plush ripeness<br />
integrate to a harmony with oak spice. Well<br />
integrated tannins, oak and acid. A serious<br />
wine with a great future. Drink in next<br />
10yrs.<br />
http://www.dgb.co.za Price: € 11.69<br />
DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200<br />
BELLINGHAM 92/100<br />
D THE BERNARD SERIES BUSH VINE<br />
PINOTAGE 2018: Deep garnet. Smoky and<br />
toasty nose with some dark berry fruit.<br />
Palate is medium-to-full with ripe black<br />
fruit and leathery spice on the finish. A<br />
deep and dark wine with many layers.<br />
Drink through 2028. Made to age.<br />
http://www.dgb.co.za<br />
DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200<br />
MAN FAMILY WINES 92/100<br />
D SKAAPVELD SYRAH 2021: Dark garnet.<br />
Spice and leather on the dark berry nose.<br />
Prunes and plum on the full palate with a<br />
well integrated and grainy tannin on the<br />
aftertaste. Layered and complex. Drink<br />
through 2028.<br />
http://www.manwines.com Price: € 4.50<br />
Man Vintners (Pty) Ltd +27 21 861-7759<br />
OLD ROAD WINE CO. 92/100<br />
D ANEMOS CHENIN BLANC 2020: Yellow/<br />
green colour. Fresh and dried stone fruit on<br />
the nose. Elegant and rich with layers of<br />
vanilla and stone fruit on the tangy finish.<br />
Drink through 2027. A fine wine.<br />
http://www.dgb.co.za Price: € 15.78<br />
DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200<br />
BACKSBERG 91/100<br />
D FOUR PILLARS CABERNET SAUVIGNON<br />
2019: Ruby brick. Tea-leaf and spice on the<br />
developed nose. Full and rich on the palate<br />
with a grainy tannin and a leathery spice on<br />
the layered aftertaste. Drink through 2027.<br />
http://www.dgb.co.za Price: € 6.14<br />
DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200<br />
BACKSBERG 90/100<br />
D SMU<strong>GG</strong>LED VINES CHARDONNAY 2021:<br />
Yellow straw. Smoky and toasty nose with<br />
hints of vanilla. Citrus and dried orange<br />
peel on the tangy palate with a distinct<br />
lemon-lime note on the lengthy aftertaste.<br />
Drink through 2028.<br />
http://www.dgb.co.za Price: € 7.31<br />
DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200<br />
MAN FAMILY WINES 90/100<br />
D KALANT CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2021:<br />
Very dark ruby. Raisins and dried fruit on<br />
the nose. Palate is full and grippy with a<br />
rhubarb tartness and a sour cherry note on<br />
the finish. Very ripe and extracted. Drink<br />
through 2025.<br />
http://www.manwines.com Price: € 4.50<br />
Man Vintners (Pty) Ltd +27 21 861-7759<br />
BOSCHENDAL 89/100<br />
D THE NICOLAS 2020<br />
http://www.dgb.co.za Price: € 11.69<br />
DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200<br />
124 AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
SOUTH AFRICA - PAARL<br />
OUR AUTUMN SELECTION<br />
FRYER’S COVE 89/100<br />
D SAUVIGNON BLANC 2022<br />
http://www.dgb.co.za Price: € 8.12<br />
DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200<br />
THE MOORING 89/100<br />
D SYRAH GRENACHE 2021<br />
http://www.overhex.com Price: € 2.80<br />
Overhex Wines +27 23 347 6838<br />
BACKSBERG 88/100<br />
D BLUEBERRY ROW PINOTAGE 2020<br />
http://www.dgb.co.za Price: € 5.55<br />
DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200<br />
DAVID FINLAYSON 88/100<br />
D THE PEPPER POT 2020<br />
http://www,edgebaston.co.za Price: € 6.00<br />
Edgebaston Vineyards +27 21 889 9572<br />
FRYER’S COVE 88/100<br />
D CHENIN BLANC 2022<br />
http://www.dgb.co.za Price: € 8.12<br />
DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200<br />
BOSCHENDAL 87/100<br />
D 1685 SHIRAZ 2019<br />
http://www.dgb.co.za Price: € 8.76<br />
DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200<br />
DARLING<br />
GROOTE POST 89/100<br />
D SEASALTER 2022<br />
http://www.grootepost.com Price: € 8.88<br />
Groote Post +27 22 492 2825<br />
FRANSCHHOEK VALLEY<br />
MONT ROCHELLE 91/100<br />
D MIKO CHARDONNAY 2017: Yellow<br />
straw. Rich nose with ripe peach and<br />
apricot. Crisp on the full palate with<br />
dried fruit and marmalade on the lengthy<br />
aftertaste. Layered and complex. Drink<br />
through 2024.<br />
http://www.montrochelle.virgin.com Price: € 15.47<br />
Mont Rochelle +27 21 876 2770<br />
MONT ROCHELLE 89/100<br />
D MIKO RED 2012<br />
http://www.montrochelle.virgin.com Price: € 23.29<br />
Mont Rochelle +27 21 876 2770<br />
OLD ROAD WINE CO. 89/100<br />
D PEPPER WIND SYRAH 2018<br />
http://www.dgb.co.za Price: € 22.04<br />
DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200<br />
PAARL<br />
AVONDALE 93/100<br />
ORG D ANIMA CHENIN BLANC 2019:<br />
Yellow straw. Subdued nose with dried<br />
fruit and stewed fruit notes. Palate is rich<br />
and elegant with layers of stone fruit and<br />
quince. Crisp, but well-integrated acidity<br />
on the full finish. Drink through 2027.<br />
Price: € 16.00<br />
Avondale +27 21 863 1976<br />
BACKSBERG 93/100<br />
D JOHN MARTIN 2017: Deep garnet.<br />
Tomato-leaf and cigar on the nose. Palate<br />
is dry and full with a dark berry note that<br />
follows from the nose. Grainy and wellintegrated<br />
tannins on the smooth finish.<br />
Drink through 2027.<br />
http://www.dgb.co.za Price: € 9.65<br />
DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 8704200<br />
BACKSBERG 93/100<br />
D JOHN MARTIN 2017: Deep garnet.<br />
Tomato-leaf and cigar on the nose. Palate<br />
is dry and full with a dark berry note that<br />
follows from the nose. Grainy and wellintegrated<br />
tannins on the smooth finish.<br />
Drink through 2027.<br />
http://www.dgb.co.za Price: € 9.65<br />
DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200<br />
AVONDALE 91/100<br />
ORG D JONTY’S DUCKS PEKIN WHITE<br />
2020: Yellow straw. Rich nose with hints<br />
of dried fruit and quince. Elegant and rich<br />
with layers of vanilla and stone fruit on the<br />
tangy finish. Drink through 2028. A fine<br />
wine.<br />
Price: € 9.00<br />
Avondale +27 21 863 1976<br />
BACKSBERG 91/100<br />
D PUMPHOUSE 2020: Deep ruby. Dark<br />
chocolate and spice on the rich nose. Full<br />
on the palate with a smoky and dark berry<br />
note on the ripe finish. Grainy tannins on<br />
the lengthy aftertaste. Drink through 2027.<br />
http://www.dgb.co.za Price: € 9.64<br />
DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200<br />
SINCE GRAHAM BECK STARTED TO IMPLEMENT ORGANIC PRINCIPLES, THE BIOMASS COVER OF THE GRAHAM BECK PRIVATE NATURE RESERVE HAS<br />
RISEN BY 34%.<br />
AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
125
SOUTH AFRICA - PAARL - SIMONSBERG<br />
OUR AUTUMN SELECTION<br />
LANDSKROON 90/100<br />
D PAUL DE VILLIERS SHIRAZ 2020: Deep<br />
garnet. Sweet dried fruit nose with some<br />
hints of leather and spice. Full and rich<br />
on the palate with a well-integrated and<br />
grainy tannin on the aftertaste. Dark<br />
chocolate and plum follows on the finish.<br />
Drink through 2028.<br />
https://www.landskroonwines.com/ Price: € 9.37<br />
Landskroon Wines +27 21 863 1039<br />
BACKSBERG 88/100<br />
D PLUM VALLEY MERLOT 2019<br />
http://www.dgb.co.za Price: € 6.14<br />
DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200<br />
PAARL - SIMONSBERG<br />
BABYLONSTOREN 95/100<br />
D NEBUKADNESAR 2020: Deep garnet<br />
with brick-red rim. Full and rich nose<br />
with dark berry and leathery notes. Cigar<br />
box and vanilla on the full palate with sour<br />
cherry and dark berry following from the<br />
nose. Layered and complex. Made to age.<br />
Excellent. Drink through 2030.<br />
http://www.babylonstoren.com<br />
Babylonstoren (Pty) Ltd +27 21 863 3852<br />
BABYLONSTOREN 93/100<br />
D CHARDONNAY 2021: Light yellow.<br />
Orange blossom and peach on the ripe<br />
nose. Full and creamy on the palate with<br />
some floral hints and peach and apricot on<br />
the layered and tangy aftertaste. A lovely<br />
wine that is made to age. Drink through<br />
2030.<br />
http://www.babylonstoren.com<br />
Babylonstoren (Pty) Ltd +27 21 863 3852<br />
SIMONSBERG-STELLENBOSCH<br />
KNORHOEK 91/100<br />
D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2019: Deep<br />
garnet. Subdued nose with hints of tomatoleaf<br />
and red cherry. Grippy on the palate<br />
with pencil shavings and cassis. Dark berry<br />
and red cherry on the full finish. Drink<br />
through 2028.<br />
http://www.knorhoek.co.za<br />
Knorhoek +27 21 865 2114<br />
STELLENBOSCH<br />
KEN FORRESTER 94/100<br />
D FMC 2021: Light yellow. Rich nose<br />
with dried fruit and stone fruit. Full on<br />
the palate with a sweet and sour note and<br />
tangy grenadilla on the crisp finish. This<br />
wine is made to age. Layered and complex.<br />
Made to age.<br />
http://www.kenforresterwines.com Price: € 30.00<br />
Ken Forrester Wines +27 21 85 52 374<br />
EIKENDAL 93/100<br />
D CLASSIQUE 2020: Dark garnet. Smoky<br />
nose with hints of leather and spice. Rich<br />
on the full palate with a grainy tannin and<br />
ripe plum on the grippy finish. Layered and<br />
complex. Made to age. Drink through 2030.<br />
http://www.eikendal.com Price: € 26.00<br />
Eikendal Vineyards +27 21 855 1422<br />
BACKSBERG 92/100<br />
D PATRIARCH 2021: Light garnet.<br />
Herbaceous nose with red cherry and candy<br />
floss. Boiled sweets and strawberry on the<br />
medium palate and a smooth and wellintegrated<br />
tannin on the finish. Unusual,<br />
but very enjoyable. Drink through 2027.<br />
http://www.dgb.co.za Price: € 20.47<br />
DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200<br />
BEESLAAR 92/100<br />
D PINOTAGE 2020: Deep ruby. Rich nose<br />
with dark berry fruit and hints of vanilla.<br />
Dark fruit follows on the full palate with<br />
grippy tannins and a prune and cranberry<br />
finish. Layered and complex. Drink<br />
through 2030.<br />
Price: € 36.50<br />
Beeslaar Wines +27 84 255 8686<br />
KOELENBOSCH 92/100<br />
D SHIRAZ 2020: Deep garnet. Black<br />
pepper and dark fruit on the nose. Good<br />
follow through on the palate with sweet<br />
coated tannins. Well integrated with<br />
excellent structure, offering superior<br />
quality. Enjoy now or for another 5-years.<br />
Price: € 5.50<br />
Koelenhof Winery +27 21 865 2020<br />
TOKARA 92/100<br />
D DIRECTORS RESERVE RED 2019: Ruby<br />
brick. Leather and spice on the nose with<br />
hints of red cherry. Vanilla and cigarbox<br />
follows on the rich palate with sour cherry<br />
and a grippy tannin on the full finish. Made<br />
to age. Drink through 2030.<br />
http://www.tokara.com Price: € 25.87<br />
Tokara +27 21 808 5913<br />
KOELENBOSCH 91/100<br />
D MERLOT 2020: Ruby garnet. Subdued<br />
nose with hints of tea-leaf. Red berry fruit<br />
and capsicum on the grippy palate with a<br />
leathery note on the lengthy finish. Made<br />
to age. Drink through 2028.<br />
Price: € 5.55<br />
Koelenhof Winery +27 21 865 2020<br />
KOELENBOSCH 91/100<br />
D DIRECTOR’S RESERVE PINOTAGE<br />
2020: Ruby colour with rich density. Sour<br />
cherries, with earthy notes and banana<br />
candy. Elegant style, will age well to allow<br />
for smoother tannins over time. Drink now<br />
or until 2028<br />
Price: € 15.89<br />
Koelenhof Winery +27 21 865 2020<br />
LANZERAC 91/100<br />
D COMMEMORATIVE PINOTAGE 2019:<br />
Ruby red. Ripe strawberries, banana,<br />
candy sweets, vanilla and spice on the nose.<br />
Secondary flavours of prunes and savoury<br />
notes. A complex wine and good example of<br />
the varietal. Drink in next 8-10yrs.<br />
http://www.lanzerac.co.za Price: € 114.16<br />
Lanzerac Wine Estate +27 21 887 1132<br />
MOOIPLAAS 91/100<br />
D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2020: Deep<br />
ruby. Mint and eucalyptus nose. Tomatoleaf<br />
and capsicum on the full and grippy<br />
palate with some sour cherry notes on the<br />
aftertaste. Drink through 2030.<br />
Price: € 8.00<br />
Mooiplaas Wine Estate +27 21 200 7493<br />
TOKARA 91/100<br />
D RESERVE COLLECTION CHARDONNAY<br />
2021: Light yellow. Buttery and full on the<br />
rich nose with hints of citrus. Toast and<br />
marmelade on the complex palate. Layered<br />
and full on the aftertaste with some vanilla<br />
and orange peel. Excellent. Drink through<br />
2028.<br />
http://www.tokara.com Price: € 14.70<br />
Tokara +27 21 808 5913<br />
KNORHOEK 90/100<br />
D CHENIN BLANC 2021: Light straw.<br />
Rich nose with dried fruit and apricot.<br />
Palate is full and creamy with dried apricot<br />
and white peach. Elegant and smooth on<br />
126 AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
SOUTH AFRICA - WELLINGTON - BOVLEI<br />
OUR AUTUMN SELECTION<br />
the layered finish. A fine example. Drink<br />
through 2028.<br />
http://www.knorhoek.co.za<br />
Knorhoek +27 21 865 2114<br />
DAVID FINLAYSON 89/100<br />
D PINOT NOIR 2021<br />
http://www,edgebaston.co.za Price: € 9.00<br />
Edgebaston Vineyards +27 21 889 9572<br />
HIDDEN VALLEY 89/100<br />
D HIDDEN TREASURE 2022<br />
http://www.hiddenvalleywines.co.za Price: € 6.82<br />
Hidden Valley Wines +27 21 880 2646<br />
MOOIPLAAS 86/100<br />
D MERLOT CABERNET FRANC 2020<br />
Price: € 8.00<br />
Mooiplaas Wine Estate +27 21 200 7493<br />
AALDERING 85/100<br />
D ESTATE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2021<br />
http://www.aaldering.co.za Price: € 11.41<br />
Aaldering Vineyards +27 21 865 2495<br />
FLORENCE BY AALDERING 82/100<br />
D BARREL SELECTION NV<br />
http://www.aaldering.co.za Price: € 7.90<br />
Aaldering Vineyards +27 21 865 2495<br />
STELLENBOSCH - BOTTELARY<br />
HAZENDAL 88/100<br />
D 23.5 BLANC DE NOIR MCC 2019<br />
http://www.hazendal.co.za Price: € 14.05<br />
Hazendal +27 21 903 5034<br />
HAZENDAL 86/100<br />
D 23.5 BLANC DE BLANC MCC 2019:<br />
http://www.hazendal.co.za Price: € 14.05<br />
Hazendal +27 21 903 5034<br />
STELLENBOSCH -<br />
JONKERSHOEK VALLEY<br />
LANZERAC 93/100<br />
SWARTLAND<br />
SURVIVOR 92/100<br />
D PINOTAGE 2020: Very dark garnet.<br />
Dark chocolate and toast on the dark fruit<br />
nose. Palate is full and rich with dark fruit<br />
and leather on the finish. A complex and<br />
layered wine that will age for many years.<br />
Drink through 2030.<br />
http://www.overhex.com Price: € 8.72<br />
Overhex Wines +27 23 347 6838<br />
OLD ROAD WINE CO. 91/100<br />
D 12 MILE SYRAH 2021: Attractive red<br />
plum with purple rim. Fresh red berries,<br />
spicy oak, violets and new leather. Medium<br />
bodied with balanced tannins on the<br />
palate. Can be enjoyed now, or potential to<br />
age well.<br />
http://www.dgb.co.za Price: € 14.33<br />
DGB (Pty) Ltd +27 21 870 4200<br />
BLAKE FAMILY WINES 90/100<br />
D AMETHYST 2018: Deep garnet.<br />
Subdued nose with savoury notes of leather<br />
and spice. Full and rich on the palate with<br />
dark berry fruit and spice following from<br />
the nose. Grippy, but layered and elegant<br />
on the full finish. Drink through 2026.<br />
http://www.blakefamilywines.com Price: € 18.00<br />
Blake Family Wines +27 82 922 6162<br />
TULBAGH<br />
MONTPELLIER 91/100<br />
D CHARDONNAY 2022: Yellow straw.<br />
Ripe nose with citrus and quince. Stone<br />
fruit and floral notes on the rich palate.<br />
Crisp acidity and a rich mouthfeel on the<br />
lengthy aftertaste. Drink through 2027.<br />
http://www.montpellier.co.za/ Price: € 8.18<br />
Montpellier Wine Estate +27 23 230 0656<br />
MONTPELLIER 88/100<br />
D CHENIN BLANC 2022<br />
http://www.montpellier.co.za/ Price: € 5.82<br />
Montpellier Wine Estate +27 23 230 0656<br />
WELLINGTON - BOVLEI<br />
CANETSFONTEIN 87/100<br />
ORG D MERLOT 2020<br />
http://www,canetsfontein.com Price: € 12.44<br />
Canetsfontein Wine Estate +27 71 248 1222<br />
CANETSFONTEIN 87/100<br />
ORG D CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2021<br />
http://www,canetsfontein.com Price: € 12.44<br />
Canetsfontein Wine Estate +27 71 248 1222<br />
D MRS ENGLISH CHARDONNAY 2021:<br />
Light straw with green rim. Orange,<br />
cumquad and lemon rind. Oak spice with<br />
full mouthfeel, depth and lengthy finish.<br />
Great potential to age. This is a show<br />
stopper.<br />
http://www.lanzerac.co.za Price: € 31.91<br />
Lanzerac Wine Estate +27 21 887 1132<br />
SPIER’S INNOVATIVE WASTEWATER TREATMENT PLANT INCLUDES A YING-YANG SHAPED POND WITH<br />
SEVERAL ‘FLOW FORMS’, FROM WHERE THE WATER FLOWS INTO AN IRRIGATION DAM.<br />
AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
127
SPAIN - CIGALES D.O.<br />
OUR AUTUMN SELECTION<br />
SPAIN<br />
Castilla y León is experiencing a<br />
genuine revival. Discover an ancient<br />
wine region that can now rival all of<br />
Spain’s finest offerings.<br />
CASTILLA Y LEÓN<br />
CIGALES D.O.<br />
BODEGAS SANTA RUFINA 92/100<br />
D VINA RUFINA 2015: Mature garnet-red<br />
with bricking. Jammy black fruits with<br />
undergrowth and spice notes show on the<br />
nose. The palate is deliciously appetising,<br />
powerful and silky with more of the nose<br />
aromas. The finish lingers on and on with<br />
mushroom accents. Serve with grilled<br />
meats.<br />
http://www.bodegassantarufina.com Price: € 18.00<br />
Bodegas Santa Rufina +34 983 58 52 02<br />
LEON D.O.<br />
KYRA 90/100<br />
D 2018: Light yellow. Vanilla, menthollike<br />
nose supported by a white flower<br />
backbone with citrus and green fruit<br />
perfumes. Silky oak influence creates<br />
a mouth-coating palate with wellestablished<br />
fruit. Consistent freshness and<br />
salinity. A lush white wine for gourmet<br />
food lovers.<br />
http://www.gordonzello.com Price: € 12.10<br />
Gordonzello +34 987 75 80 30<br />
RIBERA DEL DUERO D.O.<br />
HACIANDA DEL PRIOR 94/100<br />
D RESERVA 2018: Opaque colour tinged<br />
with garnet. Spicy, vanilla, smoky nose<br />
backed by southern fruits, delicate spices<br />
and hot stone. Oak influence creates a<br />
tight-knit texture on the palate, which<br />
also shows quality fruit and sun-ripened<br />
flavours. Nice grippy tannins. Splendid.<br />
http://www.tintofiguero.com/ Price: € 30.00<br />
Vinedos y Bodegas Garcia Figuero +34 947 54 21 27<br />
NEXUS 94/100<br />
D GRAN RESERVA 2011: Superb deep<br />
garnet-red with bricking. Nose of ripe,<br />
stewed black fruits with touches of forest<br />
floor, tobacco and leather. Silky, powerful<br />
yet complex palate. Endless finish driven<br />
by appetising notes showing substantial<br />
freshness.<br />
https://www.bodegasnexus.com Price: € 59.90<br />
Nexus Bodegas +34 983 88 04 88<br />
VALDECURIEL 94/100<br />
D 2014: Concentrated colour with<br />
brown highlights. On the nose, oakiness<br />
suffused with smoke and ash is nicely<br />
established amidst the stewed fruits and<br />
fresh mushrooms. The structured palate<br />
incorporates a trace of chlorophyll into the<br />
remarkable fruit score. Nicely harnessed<br />
tannins. A monumental must-try.<br />
Price: € 40.00<br />
Muriel Wines +34 945 60 62 68<br />
ARZUAGA 93/100<br />
D CRIANZA 2019: Beautiful garnet-red<br />
with faint bricking. Nose of blackberry<br />
and blackcurrant with forest floor and<br />
vanilla notes. Solid, robust palate with<br />
finely oaked and spicy accents. Substantial<br />
freshness on the finish. Serve with grilled<br />
meats.<br />
http://www.arzuaganavarro.com Price: € 19.95<br />
Bodegas Arzuaga Navarro +34 983 68 11 46<br />
DOMINIO DE CAIR 93/100<br />
2014: Dark garnet with bricking.<br />
D<br />
Generous nose unfurling dark fruits,<br />
eucalyptus, liquorice, herbs and spices. The<br />
palate is nicely structured with a velvety<br />
texture, great nascent complexity and very<br />
nicely mellowed, quality oak. Marvellous.<br />
https://www.araex.com/es/<br />
Spanish Fine Wines<br />
LA BARAJA 93/100<br />
D 2019: Concentrated colour tinged with<br />
ruby. Vanilla, menthol and liquorice on<br />
the nose with a jammy red and black fruit<br />
note. Profound palate that stays focused on<br />
elegance and delicacy. Soft oak and tannins<br />
with burgeoning fruit. Supple and very<br />
harmonious.<br />
http://www.vinavilano.com/ Price: € 30.00<br />
Bodegas Vilano, S. Coop. +34 947 53 00 29<br />
LEGARIS 93/100<br />
D RESERVA 2016: Dark colour tinged with<br />
purple-blue. Profound nose marrying oaky<br />
and mineral tones with a ripe fruity touch.<br />
The palate is very mouth-filling from the<br />
attack onwards, with velvety tannins and<br />
the same precise aromatics coupled with<br />
unmistakable length.<br />
http://www.grupocodorniu.com Price: € 28.00<br />
Raventos Codorniu +34 935 05 15 51<br />
BODEAGS ZIFAR 92/100<br />
D CABALLERO ZIFAR 2017: Beautiful<br />
brilliant garnet-red with faint bricking.<br />
Alluring nose of jammy dark fruits with<br />
touches of undergrowth and white pepper.<br />
Powerful, robust palate also developing<br />
empyreumatic accents. Complex and<br />
generous.<br />
Price: € 28.95<br />
Bodegas Zifar 34 983 87 31 47<br />
BODEGA BOHÓRQUEZ 92/100<br />
CONV D RESERVA 2014: Beautiful deep<br />
ruby. Ripe nose of stone fruits bordering<br />
on jammy with a tangy touch recalling<br />
rhubarb. The palate is dense and soft with<br />
mature, expressive aromatics accented by<br />
spice, leather and cacao. Remarkable.<br />
Price: € 11.50<br />
Bodegas Bohorquez +34 983 87 01 23<br />
CARRAROA 92/100<br />
ORG D 2018: Deep garnet-red with faint<br />
mature highlights. Engaging nose of ripe<br />
black fruits with touches of liquorice and<br />
pepper. Silky, powerful, clean attack on<br />
the palate flowing into perfectly integrated<br />
tannins. Serve with grilled meats.<br />
Price: € 7.00<br />
Bodega y Vinedos Milenico +34 695 38 28 48<br />
CONDADO DE ORIZA 92/100<br />
D GRAN RESERVA 2014: Beautiful deep,<br />
bright red showing amazing youthfulness.<br />
Mature nose accented by incense, liquorice<br />
and exotic wood. The palate is massive<br />
with elegant tannins. It is mouth-filling<br />
with sustained fruit. A consummate wine<br />
for game.<br />
http://www.felixsolisavantis.com Price: € 18.99<br />
Félix Solís Avantis S.A +34 926 32 24 00<br />
PAGO SENDA MISA 92/100<br />
D 2018: Dark red with young highlights.<br />
Mature nose of super ripe fruits coupled<br />
with a cured meat tone. The palate offers<br />
128 AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
SPAIN - RIBERA DEL DUERO D.O.<br />
OUR AUTUMN SELECTION<br />
A MURAL BY VALLADOLID ARTIST JULIO SENDINO DECORATES THE BODEGA’S UNDERGROUND WINERY (VALDEMONJAS).<br />
the perfect combination of structure,<br />
power and freshness with very elegant<br />
flavours. Oaky finish accented by graphite.<br />
Price: € 20.00<br />
MONTEBACO, S.L. +34 983 48 51 28<br />
ARDAL TRADICION 91/100<br />
D 2021: Dark, vivid red, full of<br />
youthfulness. The nose shows balance<br />
between fruit and wood, with an exotic<br />
touch of liquorice and coconut. The palate<br />
is dense yet harmonious with a tannin<br />
stamp that is dialled up through to the<br />
finish. A very delicate wine.<br />
http://www.balbas.es/<br />
Bodegas Balbas +34 947 54 21 11<br />
BODEGAS VIYUELA 91/100<br />
D SELECCION 2018: Garnet-red.<br />
Menthol-like, vanilla nose with compelling<br />
red and black fruit notes and a floral<br />
sensation. Freshness, suppleness and<br />
alluring oakiness on the palate. The fruit<br />
is just a little reticent still. A feeling of<br />
ripeness offers the guarantee of longevity.<br />
Price: € 6.40<br />
Bodegas Viyuela +34 947 53 00 72<br />
PATA NEGRA 91/100<br />
D RESERVA TEMPRANILLO 2014: Garnet<br />
with orangey highlights. Exotic wood,<br />
liquorice, vanilla, smoke and ash on the<br />
nose mesh with jammy fruit. The palate<br />
shows youthful verve with sleek flavours,<br />
a precise, appetising mouthfeel and<br />
deliciously soft oak. Very expressive.<br />
http://www.garciacarrion.es<br />
García Carrion +34 914 35 55 56<br />
PETIT VEGA 91/100<br />
D 18 MESES EN BARRICA 2019: Intense<br />
ruby with crimson reflections. The nose<br />
is low-key with a blend of black fruits,<br />
citrus zest, fine spices and subtle oak. The<br />
palate starts smooth then fills the mouth<br />
with great elegance and touches of mocha<br />
and salinity with silky tannins in the<br />
background. Very promising.<br />
Price: € 5.85<br />
Premium Fincas<br />
TEOFILO REYES 91/100<br />
D RESERVA 2017: Beautiful dark colour<br />
tinged with dark purple. Intense nose<br />
showing stately oak and chocolatey accents.<br />
This is a very complete wine where flavours<br />
mesh with a remarkable tannin backbone.<br />
Keep for a little while longer.<br />
http://www.zuazogaston.com Price: € 20.00<br />
Zuazo Gastón Bodegas y Viñedos S.L. +34 945 60 15 26<br />
ALTOS DE ARANDA 90/100<br />
D ROBLE 2020: Fairly deep red with<br />
ruby tints. Vanilla oak and delicate smoke<br />
supported by jammy fruits of the forest<br />
on the nose. Well-balanced, rectilinear<br />
palate where freshness imparts tension.<br />
Shimmering mouthfeel, soft oak, wellestablished<br />
fruit and velvety tannins in this<br />
complete wine.<br />
Price: € 3.35<br />
Long Wines, S.L. +34 916 22 13 05<br />
CASTILLO DE URTAU 90/100<br />
D 2018: Deep garnet with some bricking.<br />
Racy nose combining stone fruits, spices,<br />
menthol and quality oak. Robust palate<br />
energised by beautiful freshness. Still firm<br />
but already the exotic aromatics coat the<br />
tastebuds. Keep.<br />
http://www.masetplana.com Price: € 15.25<br />
Maset +34 606 97 65 19<br />
MONTE AIXA 89/100<br />
D 2019<br />
AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE<br />
129
SPAIN - RUEDA D.O.<br />
OUR AUTUMN SELECTION<br />
THE PEBBLE-STREWN SOILS ARE ONE OF THE CHARACTERISTICS OF THE CIGALES DO. BUSH-TRAINED VINES ARE ANOTHER (SANTA RUFINA).<br />
http://www.foobespain.com Price: € 5.60<br />
Foobespain International +34 926 51 31 67<br />
RUEDA D.O.<br />
DOMINIO DE LA GRANADILLA 90/100<br />
CONV D SAUVIGNONC BLANC 2021: Pale<br />
yellow with light green tints. Citrus fruits<br />
(tangerine) and white fruits (pear, peach)<br />
on the nose with menthol touches. The<br />
palate is rounded and crisp with cut hay<br />
notes and saline freshness on the finish.<br />
Drink with fish or poultry in a sauce.<br />
Price: € 9.95<br />
Vinedos La Granadilla +33 6 85 92 66 98<br />
CASERIO DE DUENAS 87/100<br />
D 2020<br />
http://www.bodegaspalacio.es Price: € 8.50<br />
Bodegas Palacio +34 915 00 60 00<br />
TORO D.O.<br />
APONTE + 94/100<br />
D 2008: Superb garnet with bricking.<br />
Nose of stewed black fruits with vanilla and<br />
forest floor notes. Appetising, silky attack<br />
revealing elegant oaky touches. Long fresh,<br />
mineral finish. Serve with caramelised<br />
lamb shanks.<br />
Price: € 95.00<br />
Bodegas Frontaura +34 690 14 52 85<br />
8 ROSAS NEGRAS 92/100<br />
CR D 2020: Intense crimson with<br />
youthful highlights. Endearing nose<br />
combining stone fruits, redcurrant, spices,<br />
smoke and herbs. Velvety attack followed<br />
by a palate that is virile yet very elegant<br />
and displays superb nascent complexity<br />
and silky tannins. Bravo.<br />
http://www.spanishpalate.es Price: € 8.50<br />
Spanish Palate +34 637 49 60 99<br />
VINA ABBA 91/100<br />
D 2017: Bright ruby, starting to mature.<br />
Endearing nose combining dark fruits, fine<br />
spices and liquorice backed by oak. Velvety,<br />
virile, rich palate displaying great nascent<br />
depth. Still firm with oak influence but<br />
everything is in place. Lovely.<br />
http://www.bodegascasas.com Price: € 6.00<br />
Bodega Francisco Casas 34 980 698 032<br />
BODEGA CAMPO DE TORO 90/100<br />
D VÁLGAME DIOS 2019: Dark red with<br />
garnet-brown reflections. Nose of stewed<br />
dark fruit with a liquoricy, spicy touch,<br />
wild plants and condiments. The palate is<br />
warm and plump yet not heavy with a sweet<br />
tannin edge. Stronger garrigue tone on the<br />
finish.<br />
Price: € 12.50<br />
Bodega Campo de Toro S.L. 34 633 151 954<br />
CARAY 90/100<br />
D BLACK LABEL 2014: Superb dark<br />
garnet-red with mature highlights. Nose<br />
of stewed black fruits with touches of<br />
bitumen and liquorice. Powerful attack on<br />
the palate, mirroring the nose. Very fresh<br />
tannins drive the mid-palate through to<br />
the finish. Drink with spicy foods.<br />
http://www.elsoleado.com<br />
Bodegas y Viñedos El Soleado +34 911 99 41 08<br />
MIO DE M.O. 90/100<br />
D VENDIMIA SELECCIONADA 2018: Deep<br />
garnet-red with faint bricking. Seductive<br />
nose of jammy dark fruits with liquorice<br />
and pepper notes. Powerful, structured<br />
palate revealing well-integrated tannins. A<br />
wine with a taste of the sunshine pairing<br />
with grilled rib steak.<br />
Price: € 12.00<br />
Rui Roboredo Madeira 351 254 488 070<br />
MÍO DE M.O. 89/100<br />
D RESERVA 2017<br />
http://www.3vwines.es Price: € 9.00<br />
Gardoqui Export - 3 V Wines +34 983 21 96 56<br />
VT CASTILLA Y LÉON<br />
MILENIUM 89/100<br />
D 2021<br />
http://www.bodegasgallegas.com/ Price: € 2.30<br />
Vinos y Bodegas Gallegas +34 988 38 42 00<br />
VIZAR 89/100<br />
ORG D BARRICA 8 MESES 2018<br />
Price: € 6.35<br />
Penalba la Verde +34 983 68 26 90<br />
130 AUTUMN 2022 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE
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