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LOIRE VALLEY
DISCOVERY
DOMAINE DES CLAVIÈRES:
A CLASSIC SCORE
THE DAVY FAMILY IN THE CELLAR
At the end of the 16th century, Dutch traders
channelled a tributary of the Loire called the
Layon in order to facilitate trade in wines that
were already suitable for transportation and
could be kept for a long time. These are the
historical origins of the present-day, storied
Coteaux du Layon appellation, whose heritage is
currently safeguarded by three hundred producers
and negociants who market over 5 million
bottles a year. For seven generations, the Davy
family has farmed vines in Saint-Lambert-du-
Lattay, now part of the village of Val-du-Layon.
In its Vieux Pressoir cellar, it produces wines
covering a broad spectrum of styles, including
several labels under the famed appellation
where overripe Chenin grapes are harvested.
Since 2013, it has sold one in particular under
the Domaine des Clavières label, via a local
trading company. The 2022 vintage was tasted
and got a vote of approval from Gilbert & Gaillard.
It is typical of the appellation’s entry-level
wines, which are generous even with low price
tags. The colour is golden and the nose complex.
Once on the palate, the wine shows mouth-filling
softness yet also lots of nuance and freshness,
all for a retail price of around 10 euros a
bottle. This is an excellent way to discover this
complex appellation which offers sweet wines
delivering very complex aromatics and ageability
that can range from five years to a good
half-century!
DOMAINE LAVIGNE:
THE PERFECT APTRONYM
This is one aptly-named winery if ever there was
one! Three generations of Lavignes – aka ‘the
vine’ – have focused and still focus on wine in
Varrains, South of Saumur, along the left bank
of the Loire. Pascale Véron, whose maiden name
was Lavigne, works with her husband Antoine.
90 WINTER 2023 • GILBERT & GAILLARD - THE FRENCH EXPERTS ON WINE