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46 <strong>Magazine</strong> | Gardens<br />
Hardy annuals<br />
I germinate hardy annual seeds in late winter so they can<br />
be planted out in the field in early spring, before the last<br />
frost. They are not only tolerant of the cold but thrive in<br />
cooler temperatures. Examples are snapdragons, annual<br />
scabiosa, bells of Ireland, larkspur, Queen Anne’s lace,<br />
sweet peas, corncockle.<br />
Heat-loving annuals<br />
These plants love the heat of summer but don’t tolerate frost,<br />
so I germinate them a bit later and plant out in the field after<br />
the threat of frost has passed. Try zinnias, amaranthus, annual<br />
aster, celosia, sunflowers, cosmos.<br />
Germinating hardy annuals in milk bottles<br />
● Halfway down a 2-litre milk bottle, make a<br />
horizontal cut around three sides, leaving enough<br />
uncut so that it forms a ‘hinge’.<br />
● Poke holes in the bottom of the bottle for drainage,<br />
and a few in the top part for air flow.<br />
● Fill the bottom of the bottle with about 10<br />
centimetres damp seed-raising mix.<br />
● Plant the seeds as directed on the packet. A good<br />
rule of thumb is to sow at a depth twice the size<br />
of the seed. You can plant them fairly densely, as<br />
you’ll be dividing them up to transplant in spring.<br />
● Spray the surface with water so the top layer is<br />
quite damp.<br />
● Label a stick and poke it into the soil – it’s less likely<br />
to fade than if you write the name on the bottle.<br />
●<br />
●<br />
●<br />
Put the lid on and duct-tape the bottle closed all the<br />
way around. Place it outside and let Mother Nature<br />
do the rest.<br />
You can leave the plastic cap on until the seeds<br />
germinate. This will keep the moisture in and<br />
hasten germination.<br />
Once the seeds germinate, remove the cap to allow<br />
rain to get in and air to circulate.<br />
The Chelsea chop<br />
The term comes from the UK, because growers do it in<br />
preparation for the annual Chelsea Flower Show in May.<br />
It involves cutting back your perennials by a half to a third to<br />
extend their flowering, and in New Zealand it is done in late<br />
spring or early summer.<br />
Flowers such as mignonette will rebloom after a good<br />
cut‐back; others will simply flower better and for longer.<br />
Phlox, aster and sedum will not grow so leggy if cut back<br />
prior to their first flush.<br />
Examples of other summer- and autumn-flowering<br />
perennials that respond to this pruning method are<br />
penstemon, goldenrod, yarrow, campanula and rudbeckia.<br />
Extracted from Secret Gardens of<br />
Aotearoa by Jane Mahoney & Sophie<br />
Bannan, photography by Jane Mahoney,<br />
Josephine Meachen & Sophie Bannan,<br />
published by Allen & Unwin NZ,<br />
RRP$50.