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Summer Dining Guide 2024

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SUMMER DINING GUIDE <strong>2024</strong>


2 ESSEX MEDIA GROUP DINING GUIDE <strong>2024</strong><br />

By Linda Gassenheimer<br />

Tribune News Service<br />

Quick Fix: Steak Fajita Pizza<br />

Here’s a delicious fusion of Tex-<br />

Mex and Italian cuisines. I topped my<br />

homemade pizza with steak flavored with<br />

fajita spices. For an easy pizza crust, I use<br />

a ready-to-bake thin pizza crust such as<br />

Pillsbury pizza crust. It easily unrolls to<br />

a thin crust which fills the kitchen with a<br />

fresh dough aroma.<br />

A tip for a crisp bottom on the pizza is<br />

to place a baking sheet in the oven while<br />

it preheats. Then put the dough on the<br />

heated sheet. Salsa coats the dough. The<br />

heat is up to you. Use a spicy salsa if you<br />

like it really hot.<br />

HELPFUL HINTS:<br />

You can use a readymade pizza base<br />

instead of refrigerated dough. It will save<br />

time. Omit the first 5 minutes of cooking<br />

the dough on its own.<br />

Any type of onion can be used.<br />

Any type of Mexican-style shredded<br />

cheese can be used.<br />

COUNTDOWN:<br />

1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees.<br />

2. Prepare all ingredients.<br />

3. Unroll dough onto the counter.<br />

Steak Fajita Pizza.<br />

TNS PHOTO | LINDA GASSENHEIMER<br />

4. Complete recipe.<br />

SHOPPING LIST:<br />

To buy: 1/2 pound grass fed skirt<br />

steak, 1 bottle chili powder, 1 bottle garlic<br />

powder, 1 can olive oil spray, 1 green bell<br />

pepper, 1 red onion, 1 small container<br />

coarse cornmeal, 1 8-ounce container<br />

ready-to-bake thin crust pizza dough (such<br />

as Pilsbury), 1 jar mild chunky salsa and<br />

1 package shredded reduced-fat Monterey<br />

Jack cheese.<br />

Steak Fajita Pizza<br />

5. Recipe by Linda Gassenheimer<br />

6. 2 teaspoons chili powder<br />

7. 2 teaspoons garlic powder<br />

8. 1/2 pound grass fed skirt steak<br />

9. Olive oil spray<br />

10. 1 cup green bell pepper sliced<br />

11. 1 cup sliced red onion<br />

12. 1/4 cup coarse cornmeal<br />

13. 8 ounce ready-to-bake thin crust<br />

pizza dough (such as Pillsbury)<br />

14. 1 cup mild chunky salsa<br />

15. 1/2 cup shredded reduced-fat<br />

Monterey Jack cheese<br />

Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Place a<br />

baking sheet on the middle shelf of the<br />

oven. Spread chili powder and garlic<br />

powder on both sides of the steak. Rub<br />

them in with a spoon. Heat a large<br />

nonstick skillet over medium-high heat<br />

and spray with olive oil spray. Add<br />

the steak, onion and green bell pepper.<br />

Saute 1 minute. Turn steak over and<br />

saute another minute. Remove steak to a<br />

cutting board to rest. Continue to saute<br />

the green pepper and onion for 5 minutes.<br />

While the steak rests and vegetables<br />

continue to saute, spread the cornmeal<br />

over a countertop. Unroll the pizza dough<br />

according to package instructions onto the<br />

cornmeal. Spread the dough out to make<br />

an even dough base. When the oven is at<br />

temperature Remove the baking sheet and<br />

using two large spatulas carefully add the<br />

pizza dough to the tray. Return the tray<br />

with the dough to the oven for 5 minutes.<br />

Remove the tray and spread the dough<br />

with the salsa. Slice steak into small<br />

pieces, about 1/4 to 1/2 inch. Spread steak,<br />

onion and green pepper evenly over the<br />

pizza. Sprinkle the Monterey Jack cheese<br />

on top. Return the baking tray to the oven<br />

and bake 5 minutes. Remove the tray and<br />

cut the pizza into 4 pieces and serve on 2<br />

dinner plates.<br />

Yield 2 servings<br />

Per serving: 641 calories (29 percent<br />

from fat), 20.3 g fat (7.5 g saturated, 6.6<br />

g monounsaturated), 90 mg cholesterol,<br />

42.4 g protein, 77.1 g carbohydrates, 6.2 g<br />

fiber, 1596 mg sodium.<br />

Linda Gassenheimer is the author of over<br />

30 cookbooks, including her newest, "The<br />

12-Week Diabetes Cookbook." Listen to<br />

Linda on www.WDNA.org and all major<br />

podcast sites. Email her at Linda@<br />

DinnerInMinutes.com.)


DINING GUIDE <strong>2024</strong> ESSEX MEDIA GROUP 3<br />

StatePoint<br />

Real smoke flavor elevates classic summer grilling dish<br />

From patriotic holidays to park side<br />

barbecues to casual weeknight dinners,<br />

you can elevate your grilling game this<br />

summer with premium ingredients, and<br />

some culinary inspiration.<br />

To help you get started, Bear Mountain<br />

BBQ, maker of 100% all-natural<br />

hardwood pellets for pellet grills and<br />

smokers, has asked two of their favorite<br />

chefs to share new takes on grilling<br />

classics.<br />

First up are these loaded, smoky<br />

Elote Hot Dogs, brought to you by Bear<br />

Mountain ambassador, Meiko Temple:<br />

Prep Time: 5 minutes<br />

Cook Time: 20 minutes<br />

Serves: 8 hot dogs<br />

Ingredients<br />

• 1/3 cup mayonnaise<br />

• 3 tablespoons fresh lime juice<br />

• 1 teaspoon tajin seasoning<br />

• 1 teaspoon Cholula hot sauce<br />

(optional)<br />

• 4 ears corn, husks removed<br />

• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted<br />

• 1/3 cup chopped cilantro<br />

• 1/3 cup grated Cotija cheese (option:<br />

grate additional for garnish)<br />

• 1 clove garlic, minced<br />

• 1/4 teaspoon chili powder, garnish<br />

• 8 jumbo hot dogs, butterflied<br />

• 8 hot dog buns<br />

• Bear Mountain BBQ’s Chef’s Choice<br />

Pellets, available exclusively at Walmart<br />

Instructions<br />

1. In a large bowl, whisk together<br />

mayonnaise, lime juice, tajin seasoning<br />

and hot sauce. Refrigerate until ready for<br />

use.<br />

2. Preheat grill or smoker to 375<br />

degrees F with pellets. Clean and oil<br />

cooking grates.<br />

3. Remove husk and silk from corn<br />

cobs. Brush with melted butter.<br />

4. Place corn on the grill over direct<br />

heat. Open flame broiler plate and rotate<br />

regularly to char all sides.<br />

5. Transfer corn to the side of indirect<br />

heat every 5 minutes for approximately<br />

The Elote Hot Dog.<br />

15 minutes.<br />

6. Remove from grill. Let cool.<br />

7. Use a sharp knife to slice off kernels.<br />

8. With a sharp knife, make a<br />

lengthwise cut along the top of each hot<br />

dog. Don’t cut all the way through. You<br />

want the hot dog to remain in one piece,<br />

creating a butterfly-like shape.<br />

STATEPOINT PHOTO | MEIKO TEMPLE<br />

9. Grill hot dogs over indirect heat for<br />

2 to 3 minutes per side.<br />

10. To the chili lime mayo bowl, add<br />

grilled corn, Cotija cheese, cilantro and<br />

garlic. Toss to make the elote. Place hot<br />

dogs into buns cut side up. Add elote into<br />

the center cut. Garnish with additional<br />

cheese and chili powder. Enjoy!


4 ESSEX MEDIA GROUP DINING GUIDE <strong>2024</strong><br />

Make any night date night with this riff on steak frites<br />

By Meredith Deeds<br />

Tribune News Service<br />

Years ago, when my kids were little, my<br />

husband and I made sure we had a special<br />

night together at least once a week. We called it<br />

Champagne Friday, and even though we didn't<br />

drink champagne (we usually opted for a more<br />

budget-friendly alternative), we always tried<br />

to make a nice meal to enjoy together after the<br />

kids went to bed.<br />

One of our favorites was the French bistro<br />

classic steak frites.<br />

It's a simple dish, just steak and fries, but<br />

one usually reserved for eating out. Since going<br />

out wasn't in the cards back then, making the<br />

dish at home was the next best thing.<br />

While pan searing a steak is a fairly<br />

straightforward process, the "frites" are a little<br />

more involved as they require deep-frying the<br />

potatoes, not just once, but twice, in order to<br />

achieve the perfect crispiness.<br />

The dish is often served with a bearnaise<br />

sauce, which can be a little tricky, especially if<br />

you're only cooking for two.<br />

Bearnaise sauce is a close cousin of<br />

hollandaise. It typically starts with shallots,<br />

fresh tarragon and white wine vinegar. Copious<br />

amounts of melted butter are then whisked into<br />

the mixture until a rich, creamy sauce is created.<br />

I've simplified the dish over the years while<br />

still keeping the essential elements.<br />

For the potatoes, I switched from the doublefried<br />

skinny French fries, which can be easy to<br />

burn, to easier-to-work-with chunky pieces.<br />

To create an ultra-crispy crust without<br />

the need for double frying, the potatoes are<br />

parboiled with baking soda. That trick softens<br />

and breaks down the exterior of the potato,<br />

allowing a thick crust to develop during frying<br />

while keeping the inside fluffy.<br />

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Beer/wine<br />

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Chunky french fries are easier to work with.<br />

In place of a bearnaise sauce, I've<br />

incorporated its signature tangy flavor and faint<br />

aroma of anise by mixing chopped tarragon<br />

and a touch of vinegar into a quick and easy<br />

compound butter that melts into a lovely sauce<br />

on top of the warm steak.<br />

The combination of golden brown, crispy<br />

potatoes, perfectly pan-seared steak and a rich<br />

buttery sauce is sure to make any night feel like<br />

date night, with or without the champagne.<br />

Date Night Steak and Crispy Potatoes<br />

Serves 2.<br />

A twist on steak frites, this flavorful version<br />

of meat and potatoes does have a couple steps,<br />

but they're easy to do and worth the effort for<br />

a date night or any other night. From Meredith<br />

Deeds.<br />

For the potatoes:<br />

• 1 1/4 lb. russet potatoes, peeled and cut<br />

into 1-in. pieces<br />

• 1/2 tsp. baking soda<br />

• 1/2 tsp. salt, plus more for sprinkling<br />

• 3 c. vegetable oil<br />

For the steaks:<br />

• 2 steaks (10 to 12 oz. each, about 1 in.<br />

thick), such as New York strip, boneless rib-eye<br />

or top loin<br />

• 3/4 tsp. salt<br />

• 1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper<br />

• 3 tbsp. salted butter, room temperature<br />

• 2 tsp. finely chopped Italian parsley<br />

• 2 tsp. finely chopped tarragon<br />

• 1/2 tsp. white wine vinegar<br />

TNS PHOTO | JUAN MOYANO<br />

Directions<br />

Bring 8 cups water to boil in large saucepan<br />

over high heat. Add potatoes and baking soda.<br />

Return to boil and cook for 2 minutes. Drain<br />

potatoes.<br />

Return potatoes to saucepan and place<br />

over low heat. Cook, stirring once or twice,<br />

until the potatoes are dry, about 30 seconds.<br />

Remove from heat. Sprinkle 1/2 teaspoon salt<br />

over the top of the potatoes and gently stir until<br />

potatoes are roughed up on the outside, about<br />

30 seconds. Transfer potatoes to a baking sheet<br />

to cool.<br />

Heat oil in a large Dutch oven or heavybottomed<br />

saucepan over high heat to 350<br />

degrees. Add all the potatoes (make sure they<br />

are all submerged in oil) and cook, stirring<br />

occasionally, until deep, golden brown and<br />

crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside,<br />

about 10 to 15 minutes.<br />

Transfer potatoes to a paper towel–lined<br />

wire rack set in rimmed baking sheet. Season<br />

with salt to taste.<br />

While the potatoes are frying, pat steaks dry<br />

and season both sides with 3/4 teaspoon salt and<br />

pepper.<br />

Heat a 10-inch cast-iron skillet over high<br />

heat until very hot, about 2 minutes. Arrange<br />

steaks in skillet and reduce heat to mediumhigh.<br />

Cook until well-browned, about 4 minutes<br />

on the first side. Turn steaks over and cook to<br />

desired doneness, about 2 to 3 minutes more for<br />

medium-rare (125 degrees on an instant-read<br />

meat thermometer). Transfer steaks to a plate<br />

and let rest for 5 minutes.<br />

While the steaks rest, in a small bowl<br />

combine butter, parsley, tarragon and vinegar.<br />

Arrange steaks and potatoes on serving<br />

plates. Top each steak with a dollop of the herb<br />

butter and serve.


DINING GUIDE <strong>2024</strong> ESSEX MEDIA GROUP 5<br />

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6 ESSEX MEDIA GROUP DINING GUIDE <strong>2024</strong><br />

Gyoza is an easy-to-make Japanese comfort food<br />

By Gretchen McKay<br />

Tribune News Service<br />

Rie McClenny grew up in southwestern<br />

Japan with family members who not only<br />

loved to cook but, as the owners of a tearoom<br />

and cafe in their small seaside city, were pretty<br />

darn good at it.<br />

The simple, home-cooked meals her<br />

mother, Yoko, and maternal grandmother,<br />

Kiyoko, prepared for their rural customers,<br />

using seasonal local ingredients and traditional<br />

recipes, were far from fancy. Yet their skillful<br />

mix of salty, sweet, sour and bitter — key<br />

elements in authentic Japanese cuisine — were<br />

rich with umami flavor.<br />

The women were particularly good at<br />

making one beloved Japanese comfort food:<br />

the ground pork- and cabbage-filled, pan-fried<br />

dumplings known as yaki-gyoza.<br />

As McClenny recalls in her first cookbook<br />

"Make it Japanese" (Clarkson Potter, $30),<br />

they were absolute whizzes at folding dough<br />

wrappers around the savory filling to create<br />

tasty bundles that were juicy and tender on the<br />

inside and crispy, golden-brown on the outside.<br />

So good, in fact, that she never felt the urge to<br />

learn to make them herself.<br />

"I enjoyed baking, and also enjoyed<br />

reading recipes in cookbooks and magazines,"<br />

she says from her home in Los Angeles, "but<br />

my mom was such a great cook I didn't feel I<br />

needed to do it."<br />

Instead, she watched her mother for "hours<br />

on end as she folded gyoza faster than my eyes<br />

could follow and never measured ingredients<br />

— one circular pour of soy sauce, a handful of<br />

bonito flakes, a dash of sake," she writes in the<br />

book's intro.<br />

While her mom imparted a few basics<br />

before she left the house to go to university<br />

in Osaka, it wasn't until McClenny landed in<br />

a rural town in West Virginia during a year<br />

abroad that she realized reading about cooking<br />

is a sad substitute for actually doing it.<br />

Also, being away from Japan for so long<br />

made her more aware of her heritage as well as<br />

homesick for her mom's cooking. So pulling<br />

herself up from her non-cooking bootstraps,<br />

she started re-creating those recipes — gyoza<br />

included — using a "mishmash" of three<br />

ingredients found in every Japanese pantry:<br />

soy sauce, sake and mirin.<br />

"There was only one Asian market, so I<br />

used what was available," she says.<br />

She found herself compromising once<br />

again with ingredients in her chase to conjure<br />

the flavors of her childhood during a postcollege<br />

job at Disney World's Japan Pavilion in<br />

Orlando, Florida. But at least she was honing<br />

her skills as a cook, which would prove useful<br />

in her next job working for a Japanese culinary<br />

school.<br />

When the school asked her to open a<br />

patisserie cafe in New York in 2007, it proved<br />

to be a turning point in her career. Being<br />

surrounded by ambitious people who were<br />

following their dreams, she realized it was<br />

now or never.<br />

"I just thought the food industry was so<br />

interesting," she says, "so I started learning<br />

more and more. Students were so passionate<br />

about restaurants and bakeries."<br />

At age 33, she enrolled at the French<br />

Culinary Institute (now the Institute of<br />

Culinary Education), thinking she might<br />

become a food stylist. She had so much<br />

fun and loved cooking so much that, after<br />

graduating, she became a chef instead, moving<br />

to Los Angeles with her husband to work as a<br />

chef at two Santa Monica restaurants.<br />

She cooked professionally for three years<br />

before burning out one night after working<br />

more than 300 meals. Deciding that a food<br />

media job would be less stressful (but still<br />

fun), in April 2016 she applied for a position as<br />

a recipe developer at Tasty Japan, the Japanese<br />

edition of BuzzFeed's food media brand Tasty.<br />

Three months later, she was hired as a<br />

full-time video producer and she soon was also<br />

appearing in videos on YouTube for BuzzFeed,<br />

though she admits to being very self-conscious<br />

about her English skills and Japanese accent.<br />

"But the more I did it, the more I realized<br />

people didn't care so much," she says. "They<br />

just want to learn how to cook. They are not<br />

learning English from me, but Japanese culture<br />

and food from a person from Japan."<br />

Despite the long hours to get there, she<br />

says, "it was exhilarating to finally pursue<br />

what I loved."<br />

Showcasing the beauty of Japanese cuisine<br />

on camera made her realize she wanted to<br />

show that "Japanese home cooking can be for<br />

everyone." So when a publisher reached out to<br />

her in 2021 to do a cookbook, she said yes, and<br />

started writing that same year, drawing on the<br />

nourishing food her mom cooked throughout<br />

her childhood for inspiration.<br />

"There are a lot of Japanese cookbooks,<br />

but I wanted one [that focused] on very<br />

approachable Japanese cooking, where you<br />

can make it if you have some of the basic<br />

items," she says of the book, which took two<br />

years to complete.<br />

As she discovered in West Virginia so<br />

many years ago, with salt from soy sauce,<br />

acidity from sake and sweetness from mirin,<br />

"you can basically cook anywhere."<br />

While some of her offerings require time,<br />

many of the dishes in "Make it Japanese" will<br />

easily come together on a busy weekend night.<br />

Most recipes are based on food she grew up<br />

eating or learned to cook once she moved<br />

to the U.S., using ingredients you can get at<br />

any Trader Joe's or Whole Foods instead of a<br />

specialty store.<br />

Geared to those new to Japanese cooking,<br />

TNS PHOTO | SEBASTIAN FOLTZ/PITTSBURGH POST-GAZETTE<br />

The Post-Gazette’s Gretchen McKay shows the process for making Japanese<br />

gyoza, at her home in Ben Avon.<br />

the book also includes instructions on how to<br />

stock a Japanese pantry and has a short chapter<br />

on essential Japanese cooking tools.<br />

It's not only very traditional, she says,<br />

but demonstrates exactly how she cooks at<br />

home. That includes a step-by-step recipe for<br />

her mother's gyoza that discloses the secret<br />

ingredient that makes them so incredibly tasty<br />

— nira, or garlic chives. (They're also known<br />

as Chinese leeks.)<br />

"You definitely don't want to go on a<br />

date after eating them. They're so stinky,"<br />

McClenny says with a laugh.<br />

Eaten in Japan since ancient times, the<br />

long, grass-like blades are more pungent and<br />

garlicky than regular chives. In addition to<br />

dumplings, they're a go-to flavor-booster for<br />

everything from soup to kimchi, stew to green<br />

onion pancakes, after trimming off the root end<br />

and white tips.<br />

Her mom's recipe also includes seasoning<br />

the ground pork filling with grated ginger,<br />

soy sauce and sake and adding fresh shiitake<br />

mushrooms and lots of finely chopped cabbage<br />

for a bit of silky heft. "But every home has a<br />

different recipe," she says.<br />

She also makes the gyoza with a lacy,<br />

crispy crust on the bottom called "wings,"<br />

or hane in Japanese — created by adding<br />

a cornstarch slurry to the pan while the<br />

dumplings are steam-frying. They're served,<br />

with golden-brown aplomb, upside down on<br />

the plate, with a dipping sauce made from soy<br />

sauce, rice vinegar and sesame and chili oils.<br />

While gyoza originated in China, where<br />

they are called jiaozi, they're actually very<br />

different, says McClenny. For starters, Chinese<br />

potstickers boast a thicker dough. They're also<br />

boiled, whereas "when we say 'gyoza,' we<br />

usually mean pan-fried."<br />

Though you can (and just might) make<br />

a meal of them, gyoza in Japan are almost<br />

always a side dish, says McClenny. They're<br />

also made with super-thin premade wrappers<br />

in Japanese homes because they're easy to find<br />

in any grocery store. Plus, a recipe makes so<br />

many of them, and stuffing and folding the<br />

dumplings just so — gathered on one side<br />

and flat on the other — takes time. So why<br />

complicate matters by adding homemade<br />

dough to the equation?<br />

That said, even with premade wrappers, it<br />

might take beginners a lot of practice before<br />

their fingers develop the requisite muscle<br />

memory to fill, fold and pleat at a record pace.<br />

"But don't stress," says McClenny. "It's<br />

just practice. Channel your inner grandmother<br />

or mother, try your best and, if it doesn't look<br />

great, it still tastes good anyway."<br />

Her one tip is to go kind of skimpy on the<br />

filling, with less than a tablespoon. "You feel<br />

like you want to fill a lot, but if you overfill it<br />

GYOZA, continued on page 7


DINING GUIDE <strong>2024</strong> ESSEX MEDIA GROUP 7<br />

GYOZA, continued from page 6<br />

will come out."<br />

Once you get the hang of it, you'll find<br />

gyoza are incredibly fun to make, even if<br />

they're not perfect.<br />

"It's just home cooking," says McClenny.<br />

"Your family won't judge you. They'll be<br />

impressed you're making [dumplings] from<br />

scratch."<br />

Gyoza with Crispy 'Wings'<br />

PG tested<br />

For the prettiest pleats, be careful not to<br />

overfill the wrappers. Adding a little cornstarch<br />

slurry to the pan while cooking the dumplings<br />

will create a lacy, crispy crust on the bottom<br />

called "hane" — Japanese for wings.<br />

Unless you're an overachiever, don't worry<br />

about making dough from scratch for these<br />

pan-fried dumplings. Even in Japan, most<br />

home cooks use premade wrappers, which you<br />

can find in any Asian market.<br />

Japanese gyoza are meant to be very<br />

garlicky, so if you can't find nira chives at your<br />

local Asian market, use the same amount of<br />

scallions or chives, but also add 2 grated garlic<br />

cloves to the filling.<br />

For dipping sauce<br />

1. 1/4 cup soy sauce<br />

2. 1/4 cup rice vinegar<br />

3. 1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil<br />

4. 1 teaspoon chili oil<br />

For filling<br />

1. 8 ounces ground pork<br />

2. 1 cup finely chopped green cabbage<br />

(about 3 ounces)<br />

3. 3/4 cup finely chopped nira chives<br />

(about 1 1/2 ounces)<br />

4. 1/4 cup finely chopped fresh shiitake<br />

mushrooms (about 3/4 ounce)<br />

5. 1/2 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger<br />

6. 1 1/2 teaspoons soy sauce<br />

7. 1 1/2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil<br />

8. 1 1/2 teaspoons sake<br />

9. 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt<br />

10. 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black<br />

pepper<br />

For dumplings<br />

1. Cornstarch or potato starch<br />

2. 35-40 gyoza wrappers<br />

3. 2 teaspoons neutral oil, such as canola<br />

or grapeseed<br />

4. Kosher salt<br />

5. Toasted sesame oil<br />

6. Make dipping sauce<br />

In small bowl, whisk together soy sauce,<br />

vinegar, sesame oil and chili oil. The sauce will<br />

keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator<br />

for up to 3 weeks.<br />

Make filling<br />

In a large bowl, combine ground pork,<br />

cabbage, nira chives, shiitake, ginger, soy<br />

sauce, sesame oil, sake, salt and pepper. Using<br />

your hands, mix well to combine.<br />

Make dumplings<br />

Dust a baking sheet with cornstarch. Fill a<br />

small bowl with water.<br />

Place a gyoza wrapper in the palm of your<br />

nondominant hand. Using the other hand,<br />

place a scant 1 tablespoon filling in the center<br />

of the wrapper.<br />

Dip your fingers in water and lightly wet<br />

one half of the wrapper's rim. Fold the wrapper<br />

in half.<br />

Using your fingertips, pleat only the top<br />

half of the wrapper, pressing against the<br />

bottom half to seal the gyoza. (The bottom half<br />

of the wrapper remains flat; you only fold one<br />

side of the wrapper.)<br />

Place gyoza on the prepared baking sheet.<br />

Repeat with the remaining wrappers and<br />

filling. Sprinkle with more cornstarch if the<br />

gyoza seem to be sticking together. Uncooked<br />

gyoza will keep in the freezer in a resealable<br />

plastic freezer bag for up to 3 months.<br />

In a 10-inch nonstick skillet with a lid, heat<br />

2 teaspoons neutral oil over medium heat. Add<br />

enough gyoza to fit in a single layer (about 12),<br />

arranging them in a circular pattern.<br />

Cook until slightly golden on the bottoms,<br />

1-3 minutes.<br />

In a small bowl or measuring cup, combine<br />

1/3 cup water, 1 1/2 teaspoons cornstarch and<br />

a pinch of salt. Pour cornstarch mixture into<br />

the skillet.<br />

Cover with lid and steam the gyoza until<br />

most of the water has evaporated, 6-8 minutes.<br />

Uncover and continue cooking until the<br />

water has completely evaporated and the<br />

cornstarch has thickened to a gel-like web at<br />

the bottom of the skillet, about 2 minutes.<br />

Drizzle some sesame oil around the edges<br />

of the gyoza. Increase the heat to mediumhigh<br />

and cook, uncovered, until the cornstarch<br />

dissolves and dries, forming "wings" that are<br />

lacy and crispy, 2-4 minutes. Remove skillet<br />

from heat and let the gyoza rest in the skillet<br />

until any bubbling subsides, 1-2 minutes.<br />

Using chopsticks or a spatula, loosen the<br />

"wings." Place a large plate on top of the<br />

gyoza. Flip the skillet upside down to invert<br />

the gyoza onto the plate. Wipe the skillet clean<br />

and repeat with remaining gyoza.<br />

Serve hot with dipping sauce.<br />

Serves 6-8.<br />

— "Make it Japanese: Simple Recipes for<br />

Everyone" by Rie McClenny (Clarkson Potter<br />

$30)<br />

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8 ESSEX MEDIA GROUP DINING GUIDE <strong>2024</strong><br />

Quick Fix: Chicken Milanese with Spaghetti Pomodoro<br />

By Linda Gassenheimer<br />

Tribune News Service<br />

Bring a taste of Italy to your table with<br />

this quick and easy dinner. Thin chicken<br />

cutlets with a light, crisp coating is a winner.<br />

The thin cutlets take less than 5 minutes to<br />

cook. They’re finished off with some capers<br />

and lemon juice. I serve them with spaghetti<br />

and tomato sauce, Spaghetti Pomodoro.<br />

HELPFUL HINTS:<br />

Any type of pasta sauce can be used. Look<br />

for one that has reduced sodium.<br />

Any style of long pasta such as linguine,<br />

fettucine or spaghettini can be used.<br />

COUNTDOWN:<br />

1. Place water for pasta on to boil.<br />

2.<br />

3. Prepare all ingredients.<br />

4.<br />

5. Start pasta cooking.<br />

6.<br />

7. Make chicken dish.<br />

8.<br />

9. Complete pasta dish.<br />

SHOPPING LIST:<br />

To buy: 3/4 pound chicken cutlets, 1<br />

container plain panko breadcrumbs, 1 small<br />

piece Parmesan cheese, 1 bottle ground<br />

oregano, 1 small bottle capers, 1 lemon, 1<br />

bunch fresh basil, 1 package spaghetti and 1<br />

bottle reduced-sodium pasta sauce.<br />

Staples: olive oil, egg, salt and black<br />

peppercorns.<br />

Chicken Milanese<br />

Chicken Milanese with Spaghetti Pomodoro.<br />

1 lemon cut into wedges<br />

Sprinkle the capers over the chicken.<br />

TNS PHOTO | LINDA GASSENHEIMER<br />

Salt and freshly ground black pepper<br />

Recipe by Linda Gassenheimer<br />

3/4 pound chicken cutlets<br />

1/4 cup plain panko breadcrumbs<br />

2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan<br />

cheese<br />

2 teaspoons ground oregano<br />

Salt and freshly ground black pepper<br />

1 egg, slightly beaten<br />

2 teaspoons olive oil<br />

1 tablespoon capers<br />

Place chicken cutlets on a cutting board<br />

and cover with plastic wrap. Pound the<br />

cutlets flat to 1/4 inch thick with a meat bat or<br />

heavy skillet. On a plate, mix panko crumbs,<br />

Parmesan cheese, oregano and add salt and<br />

pepper to taste. In a small bowl, slightly beat<br />

egg with fork. Dip the chicken cutlets into the<br />

egg and then into the panko crumb mixture,<br />

making sure both sides are covered. Heat oil<br />

in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high<br />

heat and add the cutlets. Cook 2 minutes,<br />

turn over and cook second side 2 minutes. A<br />

meat thermometer should read 155 degrees.<br />

Divide the cutlets between 2 dinner plates and<br />

squeeze juice from the lemon wedges on top.<br />

Yield 2 servings.<br />

Per serving: 359 calories (34 percent<br />

from fat), 13.5 g fat (3.4 g saturated, 4.8 g<br />

monounsaturated), 223 mg cholesterol, 44.9 g<br />

protein, 11.8 g carbohydrates, 1.2 g fiber, 404<br />

mg sodium.<br />

Spaghetti Pomodoro<br />

Recipe by Linda Gassenheimer<br />

4 ounces spaghetti<br />

1 cup reduced-sodium pasta sauce<br />

1/4 cup fresh basil leaves, torn into small<br />

pieces<br />

Bring a large saucepan 3/4 full of water<br />

to a boil. Add the spaghetti and cook for 9-10<br />

minutes or according to package instructions.<br />

Remove 1/4 cup pasta water to a bowl. Drain<br />

the spaghetti and add to the bowl with the<br />

pasta sauce. Add the basil and salt and pepper<br />

to taste. Toss well. Divide into 2 portions and<br />

serve with the Chicken Milanese.<br />

Yield 2 servings.<br />

Per serving: 277 calories (9 percent<br />

from fat), 2.8 g fat (0.4 g saturated, 0.6 g<br />

monounsaturated), 3 mg cholesterol, 9.3 g<br />

protein, 53 g carbohydrates, 4.2 g fiber, 42<br />

mg sodium.


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10 ESSEX MEDIA GROUP DINING GUIDE <strong>2024</strong><br />

By Linda Gassenheimer<br />

Tribune News Service<br />

A sweet and tangy sauce goes perfectly<br />

with the fish fillets in this quick stir-fried<br />

dinner. I added snow peas and red bell<br />

pepper along with microwaveable brown<br />

rice to complete this easy meal.<br />

Here’s a tip for best stir-frying. Make<br />

sure your wok or skillet is hot and the oil<br />

sizzling before adding the ingredients.<br />

Once they are added let them sit for a<br />

few seconds. This gives the oil a chance<br />

to regain the heat after adding the cold<br />

ingredients.<br />

Quick Fix: Ginger Soy Stir-Fried Fish<br />

HELPFUL HINTS:<br />

Any type of fish fillet such as grouper,<br />

mahi mahi or snapper can be used instead<br />

of tilapia.<br />

Four garlic cubes can be used instead<br />

of minced garlic.<br />

Use the edge of a spoon for a quick<br />

way to peel ginger.<br />

COUNTDOWN:<br />

Prepare all ingredients.<br />

Ginger Soy Stir-Fried Fish.<br />

TNS PHOTO | LINDA GASSENHEIMER<br />

Make rice and divide between two<br />

dinner plates.<br />

Complete recipe.<br />

SHOPPING LIST:<br />

To buy: 1 package microwaveable<br />

brown rice to make 1 1/2-cups cooked,<br />

3/4 pound tilapia or other white fish fillet,<br />

1 container corn starch, 1 container nosalt-added<br />

chicken broth, 1 small bottle<br />

reduced-sodium soy sauce, 1 bottle sesame<br />

oil,1 container minced garlic, 1 piece fresh<br />

ginger, 1 bunch scallions, 1 package snow<br />

peas and 1 red bell pepper.<br />

• Staples: sugar, salt and black<br />

peppercorns.<br />

• Ginger Soy Stir-fried Fish<br />

• Recipe by Linda Gassenheimer<br />

• Microwave brown rice to make 1<br />

1/2 cups cooked<br />

• 3/4 pound tilapia or other white<br />

fish filet, cut to 2 inch pieces<br />

• 1 1/2-tablespoons cornstarch,<br />

divided use<br />

• Salt and freshly ground black<br />

pepper<br />

• 1/4 cup no-salt-added chicken<br />

broth<br />

• 2 teaspoons reduced-sodium soy<br />

sauce<br />

• 2 tablespoons sesame oil, divided<br />

use<br />

• 2 teaspoons sugar<br />

• 2 teaspoons minced garlic<br />

• 2 tablespoons sliced ginger<br />

• 2 scallions sliced<br />

• 1 cup snow peas<br />

• 1 cup sliced red bell pepper<br />

Microwave brown rice according to<br />

package instructions. Measure 1 1/2-cups<br />

and save any remaining rice for another<br />

meal. Divide the rice in half and place<br />

on two dinner plates. Place 1 tablespoon<br />

cornstarch on a plate. Cut fish into 2-inch<br />

pieces and sprinkle with salt and pepper.<br />

Toss fish with cornstarch making sure all<br />

sides are coated. Set aside. Mix broth,<br />

soy sauce, 1 tablespoon sesame oil,<br />

sugar, minced garlic and remaining 1/2<br />

tablespoon cornstarch together in a small<br />

bowl. Heat the remaining 1 tablespoons<br />

sesame oil in wok or large skillet. Add<br />

the ginger, half the scallions, snow peas<br />

and red bell pepper. Stir-fry for 1 minute.<br />

Add the fish and stir-fry 1 minute, making<br />

sure all sides of the fish touch the bottom<br />

of the pan. Pour in the sauce and cook<br />

for 1 minute. Remove from heat. Divide<br />

into two portions and spoon over the rice.<br />

Sprinkle with the remaining scallions.<br />

Yield 2 servings.<br />

Per serving: 535 calories (31 percent<br />

from fat), 18.2 g fat (3.7 g saturated, 7.1<br />

g monounsaturated), 84 mg cholesterol,<br />

41.1 g protein, 52.9 g carbohydrates, 4.9 g<br />

fiber, 280 mg sodium.


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12 ESSEX MEDIA GROUP DINING GUIDE <strong>2024</strong><br />

Winner, winner, saucy chicken dinner<br />

By Beth Dooley<br />

Tribune News Service<br />

Here are two great reasons to cook<br />

chicken thighs in a heavy skillet: the crisp<br />

skin and the fabulous fat it leaves behind.<br />

That fabulous fat is the base for a lush<br />

sauce that has endless variations; using<br />

this method, you'll never eat the same dish<br />

twice.<br />

The only things you need are a heavy<br />

skillet, quality chicken and patience.<br />

First, cast iron is perfect because it will<br />

distribute the heat evenly and help keep<br />

the chicken skin from burning. It also<br />

ensures that the meat cooks slowly and all<br />

the way through.<br />

For the chicken, please choose one<br />

that's free-range, or pastured. These<br />

healthy birds are free from antibiotics and<br />

have been raised outside in fresh air. Their<br />

thighs are meatier and tastier, and the<br />

meat is high in omega-3 fatty acids and<br />

vitamins.<br />

Take your time when cooking skin-on<br />

chicken in a skillet. Keep the heat low and<br />

an eye on the pan. You want the skin to<br />

turn a lovely deep brown while it releases<br />

the fat that will baste the meat so it<br />

becomes tender and succulent. Do not try<br />

to sear the chicken as you would a steak or<br />

thinner skinless, boneless, chicken breasts.<br />

The fun is in deciding how to season<br />

the sauce. The fats and juices will impart<br />

that rich chicken-y flavor and are perfect<br />

for sizzling up whatever you toss into<br />

the skillet — vegetables, sliced citrus,<br />

fruit, tangy, hot, savory, sweet, umami.<br />

In today's recipe, we used a fruit jam and<br />

stone-ground mustard.<br />

To finish the dish, add cooked or<br />

canned beans, rice, pasta or whole grains<br />

right into the pan before plating; or just<br />

serve with hunks of crusty rustic bread.<br />

Dinner in one; dinner is done!<br />

Skillet Chicken in Jammy Sauce<br />

Serves 4.<br />

Be patient as you cook the chicken in a<br />

heavy skillet over low heat. Allow time for<br />

the skin to become super crisp and render<br />

all that luscious fat. Then, toss sliced<br />

onion and garlic cloves into the skillet to<br />

caramelize, add a little wine for deglazing,<br />

and a spoonful or two of fruit jam (cherry,<br />

TNS PHOTO | DREAMSTIME<br />

Cooking chicken thighs in a heavy skillet leaves behind crisp skin and the fabulous fat. That fabulous fat is the base for a<br />

lush sauce that has endless variations; using this method, you'll never eat the same dish twice.<br />

here) mixed with mustard, for a sweetrough<br />

sauce. Serve with hunks of rustic<br />

bread. From Beth Dooley.<br />

• 1/2 c. fruit jam of choice (cherry,<br />

apricot, orange marmalade, etc.)<br />

• 1 tbsp. coarse Dijon mustard, or more<br />

to taste<br />

• 2 to 2 1/2 lb. bone-in, skin-on chicken<br />

thighs, about 4 to 6<br />

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper<br />

• Olive oil<br />

• 1 small sweet onion, thinly sliced<br />

• 2 cloves garlic, peeled<br />

• 1/2 c. dry white wine or stock<br />

Directions<br />

In a small bowl, whisk together the jam<br />

and mustard and set aside.<br />

Pat the chicken dry and season<br />

generously with salt and pepper. Film<br />

a heavy skillet with the oil and set over<br />

medium heat. When the oil begins to<br />

ripple, add the chicken, skin side down,<br />

pressing it into the pan. When the skin<br />

is a deep brown, after about 8 minutes,<br />

and most of the fat is rendered, use tongs<br />

to flip the chicken over and continue to<br />

cook through, about 10 to 12 minutes.<br />

(The chicken is cooked when a meat<br />

thermometer inserted into the thickest part<br />

of a thigh registers 165 degrees).<br />

Use the tongs to transfer the chicken<br />

to a plate. Add the onion and garlic to the<br />

pan and cook, stirring, until caramelized,<br />

about 2 to 5 minutes. Whisk in the wine<br />

and cook until the liquid is reduced by<br />

about half. Return the chicken and coat<br />

with the jam mixture allowing some<br />

to drip into the pan, cooking until the<br />

chicken is nicely glazed. Serve with<br />

additional sauce passed on the side.


DINING GUIDE <strong>2024</strong> ESSEX MEDIA GROUP 13<br />

By Linda Gassenheimer<br />

Tribune News Service<br />

As springtime temperatures fluctuate, so<br />

do our moods and patience with trying to<br />

plan meals.<br />

One day we're throwing open the<br />

windows, firing up the grill and declaring<br />

it "almost summer," only to be humbled by<br />

near-freezing temperatures and thoughts of<br />

chili and slow cookers the next. Consider<br />

these salads your middle ground.<br />

Too early and chilly for meals of delicate<br />

greens, but past the point of craving the<br />

warmth of pot roast and potatoes, hearty<br />

salads are the answer when you're looking<br />

for meals that are filling without being<br />

heavy. These recipes, from a crop of new<br />

cookbooks, borrow from global flavors —<br />

Asian, Greek and Middle Eastern — to<br />

provide a solid start to salad season.<br />

Spicy, peanutty chicken brings heat and<br />

simplicity to an herb- and vegetable-filled<br />

dish, with sweet mango and crunchy peanuts<br />

thrown in for sweetness and texture. Quinoa<br />

is dressed with all the familiar, vibrant<br />

Greek flavors and toppings for a satisfying<br />

meatless meal. And get all the warming<br />

flavors of chicken shawarma but in salad<br />

form, no flatbread required (although we<br />

wouldn't be opposed to having it alongside).<br />

A hearty salad to kick off salad season<br />

Before long, shoulder season will give<br />

way to summer, and we'll be ready for even<br />

lighter fare, like tossed salads and pasta<br />

salads. Until then, fill up with these three<br />

simple salads and savor the season — and<br />

whatever curveballs it throws our way.<br />

Hearty Green Salad with Spicy<br />

Peanut Chicken<br />

Serves 4.<br />

This peanutty, vegetable-packed spicy<br />

chicken salad is an easy meal to toss<br />

together. Start by quick-pickling shallots<br />

and serrano chiles. Some of the brine goes<br />

into a vinaigrette to dress the greens, the<br />

rest goes into a thick, creamy spicy peanut<br />

dressing to coat the other components. The<br />

chicken adds heft while peanuts give crunch,<br />

and a garnish of Thai basil and mint gives<br />

herby freshness. We like to use poached<br />

chicken, but store-bought rotisserie chicken<br />

works, too. The shallot and serrano can be<br />

refrigerated in the pickling liquid for up to a<br />

week. From "The Complete Beans & Grains<br />

Cookbook," by America's Test Kitchen<br />

(<strong>2024</strong>).<br />

TNS PHOTO | RENATE MICALLEF/DREAMSTIME<br />

Asian, Greek and Middle Eastern flavors can provide a solid start to salad season.<br />

• 1/2 c. unseasoned rice vinegar<br />

• 2 tbsp. sugar<br />

•1 1/2 tsp. table salt<br />

• 2 shallots, sliced thin and separated into<br />

rings<br />

• 2 serrano chiles, stemmed, halved,<br />

seeded, and sliced thin crosswise<br />

• 12 oz. Broccolini, trimmed and cut into<br />

1‐in. lengths<br />

• 1/2 c. creamy peanut butter<br />

• 2 to 3 tbsp. Asian chili-garlic sauce<br />

• 4 tsp. fish sauce<br />

• 1 clove garlic, minced<br />

• 1 small head napa cabbage, halved,<br />

cored, and sliced thin (9 c.)<br />

• 2 c. watercress, torn into bite-size<br />

pieces<br />

• 1/2 c. fresh Thai basil leaves<br />

• 1/2 c. fresh mint leaves<br />

• 2 mangos, peeled, pitted, and cut into<br />

1/2‐in. pieces<br />

• 2 carrots, peeled and shredded<br />

• 2 c. cooked chicken, shredded into bitesize<br />

pieces<br />

• 1/2 c. dry-roasted peanuts, finely<br />

chopped<br />

Directions<br />

Microwave vinegar, sugar, and salt in<br />

small bowl until simmering, about 1 minute.<br />

Stir in shallots and serranos and let sit,<br />

stirring occasionally, until shallots are pink<br />

and slightly softened, about 20 minutes.<br />

Using slotted spoon, transfer shallots and<br />

serranos to large plate, leaving liquid in<br />

bowl.<br />

Combine Broccolini and 1/4 cup water<br />

in medium bowl. Cover and microwave<br />

until crisp-tender, 1 1/2 to 2 minutes. Using<br />

slotted spoon, transfer broccolini to plate<br />

with shallot and serrano. Discard water. In<br />

now-empty bowl, whisk 1/4 cup pickling<br />

liquid, peanut butter, chili-garlic sauce, and<br />

1/2 cup water until smooth. Set aside.<br />

In a large bowl, whisk together fish<br />

sauce, garlic and remaining pickling liquid.<br />

Add cabbage, watercress, Thai basil and<br />

mint and toss to combine. Season with salt<br />

and pepper to taste, then distribute evenly<br />

among 4 shallow serving bowls. Sprinkle<br />

each salad with pickled shallot and serrano.<br />

Arrange broccolini, mango and carrot in<br />

piles over top of greens. Drizzle 1/4 cup<br />

reserved peanut dressing over vegetables<br />

and mango in each bowl. Add chicken to<br />

remaining reserved peanut dressing and<br />

stir to coat evenly. Divide chicken among<br />

salads, then sprinkle with peanuts. Serve.


14 ESSEX MEDIA GROUP DINING GUIDE <strong>2024</strong><br />

By Linda Gassenheimer<br />

Tribune News Service<br />

Do you love mac and cheese? It’s a<br />

favorite dish for many of us. Here’s a<br />

light version with springtime vegetables:<br />

asparagus, yellow squash and zucchini.<br />

Sharp cheddar cheese finishes this<br />

colorful and tasty dish. It’s a quick,<br />

vegetarian meal. Frozen chopped or diced<br />

onion is used for speed. I keep a package<br />

on hand to use in quick recipes.<br />

Quick Fix: Mac and Cheese Primavera<br />

HELPFUL HINTS:<br />

If using thick asparagus, cook the dish<br />

2 minutes longer.<br />

Any type of onion can be used instead<br />

of frozen chopped onion.<br />

COUNTDOWN:<br />

Prepare ingredients.<br />

Make the recipe.<br />

SHOPPING LIST:<br />

To buy: 1 container fat-free, fat-free,<br />

no-salt-added vegetable broth, 1 onion, 1<br />

Mac and Cheese Primavera.<br />

• 2 1/2 cups fat-free, no-salt-added<br />

• Salt and freshly ground black<br />

TNS PHOTO | LINDA GASSENHEIMER<br />

bottom of the skillet. Check macaroni to<br />

small yellow squash, 1 small zucchini, 1<br />

vegetable broth<br />

pepper<br />

make sure it is cooked. Add cayenne and<br />

bunch asparagus 1 box elbow macaroni,<br />

• 1 cup diced onion<br />

• 1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan<br />

smoked paprika, salt and pepper to taste.<br />

1 package shredded reduced-fat sharp<br />

• 1 cup yellow squash cubes<br />

cheese<br />

Divide between two dinner plates and add<br />

Cheddar cheese, 1 container nonfat ricotta<br />

• 1 cup zucchini cubes<br />

•<br />

parmesan cheese on top.<br />

cheese, 1 piece Parmesan cheese, 1 bottle<br />

• 1 cup elbow macaroni<br />

Add vegetable broth to a large nonstick<br />

cayenne pepper and 1 bottle smoked<br />

• 1 cup shredded reduced-fat sharp<br />

skillet and place skillet over medium-high<br />

Yield 2 servings.<br />

paprika.<br />

cheddar cheese<br />

heat. When liquid comes to a boil, add<br />

Staples: salt and black peppercorns.<br />

• 1/4 cup nonfat ricotta cheese<br />

the onion, yellow squash, zucchini and<br />

Per serving: 482 calories (16 percent<br />

• 4 spears asparagus cut into 1-inch<br />

macaroni. Bring back to a boil and cook 5<br />

from fat), 8.4 g fat (4.4 saturated, 2.1 g<br />

Primavera Mac and Cheese<br />

pieces<br />

minutes. Stir in the cheddar cheese, ricotta<br />

monounsaturated), 21 mg cholesterol,<br />

Recipe by Linda Gassenheimer<br />

• 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper<br />

cheese and asparagus. Continue to boil 5<br />

33.5 g protein, 70.6 g carbohydrates, 6.3 g<br />

• 2 teaspoons smoked paprika<br />

minutes stirring to scrape cheese from the<br />

fiber, 981 mg sodium.


DINING GUIDE <strong>2024</strong> ESSEX MEDIA GROUP 15<br />

By Linda Gassenheimer<br />

Tribune News Service<br />

How to make Chinese dumplings at home<br />

When it comes to Chinese comfort<br />

food, nothing beats a really good bowl of<br />

hand-pulled noodles or a steaming, silky<br />

bowl of mapo tofu. Yet our love affair<br />

with Chinese food often centers around<br />

dumplings.<br />

Whether they're boiled, steamed or<br />

pan-fried, it's just so easy to eat five, six<br />

or even a dozen of the plump and juicy<br />

dough bundles stuffed with ground meat<br />

and/or vegetables. And you don't even<br />

need to head to your favorite Chinese<br />

restaurant or order takeout to enjoy them.<br />

With a bit of practice, most home<br />

cooks will find jiaozi fairly easy (and fun!)<br />

to make, especially if you get an assembly<br />

line going and opt for pre-made wrappers.<br />

Because they're shaped like ancient<br />

Chinese ingots, dumplings are often<br />

a celebratory food in China, enjoyed<br />

during holidays such as the Lunar New<br />

Year, when they symbolize wealth<br />

and prosperity for the upcoming year.<br />

But that's not always the case. Former<br />

Pittsburgher Hannah Che, who wrote the<br />

James Beard Award-winning "The Vegan<br />

Chinese Kitchen" in 2022, grew up eating<br />

them any time the family got together.<br />

Dumplings take quite a few forms in<br />

China, depending on the province and<br />

region, says Che. Since both parents are<br />

from northern China, her family mostly<br />

ate boiled dumplings. Dumpling-making<br />

was also very much a joint effort, with<br />

her father rolling the homemade dough<br />

wrappers, most everyone else filling and<br />

pleating them and her mom handling the<br />

cooking.<br />

It would have been quicker and easier<br />

to use the inexpensive frozen wrappers<br />

you can find in any Asian market, and<br />

she's quick to point out there's no shame in<br />

going the convenience route. In fact, this<br />

is how many Chinese home cooks make<br />

dumplings.<br />

"It's just we always made the dough<br />

from scratch," Che says on an early<br />

morning phone call from Dali in China's<br />

southwestern Yunnan province, where she<br />

is working on a second cookbook that will<br />

focus on tofu.<br />

Dumpling do's and don'ts<br />

Dumplings from scratch are better for<br />

one simple reason: texture.<br />

"Homemade dumplings just always have<br />

a more satisfying mouth feel," Che says.<br />

TNS PHOTO | BENJAMIN B. BRAUN/PITTSBURGH POST-GAZETTE<br />

Gretchen McKay’s homemade dumplings sit across from fresh dipping sauce in her kitchen in Avon.<br />

Also, scratch wrappers only require<br />

mixing all-purpose flour and water, then<br />

letting the dough rest for a little bit to<br />

become smooth and silky before kneading<br />

and rolling it out. "You don't need any<br />

leavening."<br />

That said, she still has some tips<br />

to make rolling, stuffing and pinching<br />

homemade dumplings a little easier for<br />

beginners.<br />

For starters, if you're going to boil the<br />

dumplings, it's important to use cold water<br />

when mixing the dough because it will<br />

give you a thicker skin. Otherwise, they<br />

will fall apart in boiling water. (If you're<br />

going to pan-fry the dumplings, however,<br />

use hot water for a more delicate wrapper.)<br />

You need to get the proportion of water<br />

to flour just right; if it's too soft, it will fall<br />

apart under the weight of the filling. This<br />

is the one time you might consider using a<br />

scale to weigh both water and flour.<br />

"It should be really elastic, but still<br />

stiff," Che says.<br />

Take a rest<br />

It's also essential to allow the dough to<br />

rest on the counter (to relax it and make<br />

it easier to roll), and aim for consistently<br />

sized portions when you pinch or cut the<br />

dough after rolling or spinning it into ropes.<br />

Rolling the dough between two pieces<br />

of parchment paper eases the process. You<br />

also might consider using a tortilla press<br />

if you've got one handy — especially if<br />

you're intimidated by the thought of all<br />

that rolling.<br />

"It's a definite time saver!" she says.<br />

The wrappers don't have to be a perfect<br />

circle, just roundish.<br />

When it comes to preparing a meat<br />

filling, combinations are endless, but Che<br />

says it's important to add in some chives,<br />

green onions or chopped cabbage "so there<br />

is something juicy (but not watery) in<br />

there besides the meat."<br />

If you'd rather go vegetarian, you need<br />

similar aromatics along with "something<br />

meaty" like tofu or tofu skin to give the<br />

dumpling some heft.<br />

"You can also include vermicelli or<br />

glass noodles because you can chop it<br />

up really nice, and it adds this richness<br />

and texture to the filling that is really<br />

satisfying," she says.<br />

Just be sure to squeeze a vegetarian<br />

filling to remove any excess water. And<br />

you'll also want to go heavier on the<br />

salt than you would ordinarily on both<br />

varieties because the dough wrapper will<br />

subdue the seasonings.<br />

Mixing and stuffing<br />

Another time-saver: Use a food<br />

processor instead of mixing all the<br />

ingredients by hand.<br />

"It really saves a lot of time, and you<br />

want something pasty," says Che.<br />

Now you're ready to stuff and pleat the<br />

bundles.<br />

Since the primary goal is to keep the<br />

filling inside, and elaborate pinches take<br />

a lot of practice, settle for a basic halfmoon<br />

shape unless you really want to<br />

make it look pretty. This is especially true<br />

if you're simply going to boil them, says<br />

Che. Fancy edges are more for steamed<br />

dumplings served for dim sum, where the<br />

presentation is more refined.<br />

Make sure the finished dumplings are<br />

flat on the bottom. It makes them easier to<br />

pick up with a pair of chopsticks.<br />

Che's final words of advice: Find a<br />

partner or, even better, several.<br />

"Dumpling making is definitely more<br />

enjoyable when it's a communal activity,"<br />

she says.<br />

All those bodies working in unison,<br />

in fact, is what makes dumplings a<br />

celebration food in Chinese culture.<br />

"It takes so long, you might as well<br />

have lots of hands," she says, laughing.


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