Solid Height - Spring Manufacturers Institute
Solid Height - Spring Manufacturers Institute
Solid Height - Spring Manufacturers Institute
Create successful ePaper yourself
Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.
A standoff, such as these two types, is used to safely and<br />
easily change an element by directly connecting the new<br />
one to the old one and threading them through the oven.<br />
Many inline ovens have elements wired in series,<br />
deltas or other configurations. This means a group of<br />
elements is working together. More often than not, a<br />
bad element will drag down the others directly connected<br />
to it. Therefore, if you find a bad element, you<br />
should suspect any other element with a direct connection<br />
to it. Elements do not slowly deteriorate until<br />
they go bad; they either “work” or “don’t work.” So,<br />
although it is possible to find only one element that<br />
has actually gone bad, be aware that other elements<br />
connected to it will probably go bad soon, too.<br />
Replacing an element is straightforward. Clamshell<br />
ovens afford the opportunity to open the<br />
chamber to assist threading the element through an<br />
oven. However, there is a risk of touching an element<br />
or other part of the heat chamber that is still hot.<br />
The easiest and safest way to change an element is<br />
with a standoff. A standoff directly connects the new<br />
element to the old one and, as you push the new one<br />
in, the old one will come out the other side. See the<br />
above photo of two types of standoffs. After replacing<br />
an element, make sure all the wire connections<br />
are tight and the terminals are snug. Anything loose<br />
or sticking out can cause arcing when electricity is<br />
returned to the oven.<br />
Thermocouples<br />
The next item that should be considered is the<br />
thermocouple. Various types of thermocouples exist,<br />
and each inline oven company will use a style most<br />
suited to its particular oven design. No matter the<br />
style, you should know that typical heat-treatment<br />
temperatures for springmakers range from 400°F<br />
to 950°F, and J-type thermocouples are the fastest<br />
reacting and most accurate type in this temperature<br />
range. A thermocouple is basically two wires of different<br />
materials attached at one end. It is at this tip<br />
where the oven temperature reading takes place.<br />
The temperature reading is the most important<br />
function in an inline oven, and three things can<br />
22 SPRINGS July 2006<br />
happen to a thermocouple that can cause problems.<br />
First, if the fused connection (where the two metal<br />
wires are welded together) breaks, the thermocouple<br />
cannot take a reading, and the thermocouple will<br />
need to be replaced. Similarly, if either of the two<br />
wires has any break or disconnection between the<br />
thermocouple and the temperature controller, the<br />
signal to the temperature controller will be lost.<br />
Luckily, almost every temperature controller on the<br />
market will display something if there is any sort of<br />
discontinuity. For example, instead of displaying a<br />
temperature, it may display “- - - -.” So, the tip of<br />
the thermocouple is the first thing to check if the<br />
display indicates discontinuity. If the tip is OK, trace<br />
back the wire connections<br />
all the way to the temperature<br />
controller to find the<br />
source of discontinuity.<br />
The second common<br />
issue related to a thermocouple<br />
is the physical<br />
displacement of the thermocouple<br />
itself. The tip of<br />
the thermocouple must<br />
extend into the furnace<br />
chamber, but sometimes<br />
it can get pushed up into<br />
the insulation, either by<br />
an airborne object hitting<br />
it or by a mistaken posi-<br />
The fused (good) tip of a<br />
thermocouple.<br />
tioning when a thermocouple is replaced. If the tip<br />
of a thermocouple is inside the insulation, the heat<br />
from the elements will not reach the thermocouple.<br />
As a result, the temperature controller will think<br />
the oven is cooler than it should be, and will tell<br />
the heating elements to go on in order to increase<br />
temperature in the chamber. If this happens, the<br />
chamber can easily reach higher than 1,000°F, while<br />
the temperature display may only show 700°F. This<br />
can cause a serious situation, such as burning out<br />
the elements or starting a fire.<br />
The third thermocouple issue is perhaps the<br />
easiest to prevent but seldom checked until a severe<br />
situation develops. This is when oils and other particles<br />
build up on the tip of the thermocouple. All<br />
day long, oily mists burn off the surface of the wire<br />
being heat treated and, due to thermodynamics, a lot<br />
of it ends up at the top of the heat chamber. This is<br />
where most thermocouples are located. If a buildup<br />
occurs, it is similar to having the thermocouple positioned<br />
in the insulation. The temperature readings<br />
will become sluggish, thus affecting the reactivity of<br />
the oven. The oven will begin to operate erratically<br />
and in a wider range of temperatures than desired.<br />
Even if most of your applications use light oil or you<br />
only run light springs through an oven, it is recommended<br />
that you check thermocouples as part of