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Solid Height - Spring Manufacturers Institute

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A standoff, such as these two types, is used to safely and<br />

easily change an element by directly connecting the new<br />

one to the old one and threading them through the oven.<br />

Many inline ovens have elements wired in series,<br />

deltas or other configurations. This means a group of<br />

elements is working together. More often than not, a<br />

bad element will drag down the others directly connected<br />

to it. Therefore, if you find a bad element, you<br />

should suspect any other element with a direct connection<br />

to it. Elements do not slowly deteriorate until<br />

they go bad; they either “work” or “don’t work.” So,<br />

although it is possible to find only one element that<br />

has actually gone bad, be aware that other elements<br />

connected to it will probably go bad soon, too.<br />

Replacing an element is straightforward. Clamshell<br />

ovens afford the opportunity to open the<br />

chamber to assist threading the element through an<br />

oven. However, there is a risk of touching an element<br />

or other part of the heat chamber that is still hot.<br />

The easiest and safest way to change an element is<br />

with a standoff. A standoff directly connects the new<br />

element to the old one and, as you push the new one<br />

in, the old one will come out the other side. See the<br />

above photo of two types of standoffs. After replacing<br />

an element, make sure all the wire connections<br />

are tight and the terminals are snug. Anything loose<br />

or sticking out can cause arcing when electricity is<br />

returned to the oven.<br />

Thermocouples<br />

The next item that should be considered is the<br />

thermocouple. Various types of thermocouples exist,<br />

and each inline oven company will use a style most<br />

suited to its particular oven design. No matter the<br />

style, you should know that typical heat-treatment<br />

temperatures for springmakers range from 400°F<br />

to 950°F, and J-type thermocouples are the fastest<br />

reacting and most accurate type in this temperature<br />

range. A thermocouple is basically two wires of different<br />

materials attached at one end. It is at this tip<br />

where the oven temperature reading takes place.<br />

The temperature reading is the most important<br />

function in an inline oven, and three things can<br />

22 SPRINGS July 2006<br />

happen to a thermocouple that can cause problems.<br />

First, if the fused connection (where the two metal<br />

wires are welded together) breaks, the thermocouple<br />

cannot take a reading, and the thermocouple will<br />

need to be replaced. Similarly, if either of the two<br />

wires has any break or disconnection between the<br />

thermocouple and the temperature controller, the<br />

signal to the temperature controller will be lost.<br />

Luckily, almost every temperature controller on the<br />

market will display something if there is any sort of<br />

discontinuity. For example, instead of displaying a<br />

temperature, it may display “- - - -.” So, the tip of<br />

the thermocouple is the first thing to check if the<br />

display indicates discontinuity. If the tip is OK, trace<br />

back the wire connections<br />

all the way to the temperature<br />

controller to find the<br />

source of discontinuity.<br />

The second common<br />

issue related to a thermocouple<br />

is the physical<br />

displacement of the thermocouple<br />

itself. The tip of<br />

the thermocouple must<br />

extend into the furnace<br />

chamber, but sometimes<br />

it can get pushed up into<br />

the insulation, either by<br />

an airborne object hitting<br />

it or by a mistaken posi-<br />

The fused (good) tip of a<br />

thermocouple.<br />

tioning when a thermocouple is replaced. If the tip<br />

of a thermocouple is inside the insulation, the heat<br />

from the elements will not reach the thermocouple.<br />

As a result, the temperature controller will think<br />

the oven is cooler than it should be, and will tell<br />

the heating elements to go on in order to increase<br />

temperature in the chamber. If this happens, the<br />

chamber can easily reach higher than 1,000°F, while<br />

the temperature display may only show 700°F. This<br />

can cause a serious situation, such as burning out<br />

the elements or starting a fire.<br />

The third thermocouple issue is perhaps the<br />

easiest to prevent but seldom checked until a severe<br />

situation develops. This is when oils and other particles<br />

build up on the tip of the thermocouple. All<br />

day long, oily mists burn off the surface of the wire<br />

being heat treated and, due to thermodynamics, a lot<br />

of it ends up at the top of the heat chamber. This is<br />

where most thermocouples are located. If a buildup<br />

occurs, it is similar to having the thermocouple positioned<br />

in the insulation. The temperature readings<br />

will become sluggish, thus affecting the reactivity of<br />

the oven. The oven will begin to operate erratically<br />

and in a wider range of temperatures than desired.<br />

Even if most of your applications use light oil or you<br />

only run light springs through an oven, it is recommended<br />

that you check thermocouples as part of

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