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Year VIII - N°2 - Grimaldi Lines

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46<br />

marenostrum<br />

Inevitabilmente, guardi verso la<br />

sommità del monumento: contro<br />

il cielo azzurro spiccano alcune<br />

candide uova gigantesche, come depositate<br />

lassù da colossali uccelli. Davvero<br />

strano, pensi, mentre ti avvicini<br />

abbastanza per accorgerti che i sobri<br />

bassorilievi intravisti da lontano sulla<br />

rossa facciata del castello, altro non<br />

sono che appetitosi panini (panini?)<br />

sistemati in gran numero lungo il<br />

perimetro dell’edificio. A questo punto<br />

lo spaesamento è totale. Sai di essere<br />

giunto a Figueras, antico borgo catalano<br />

incuneato tra i Pirenei e la Costa<br />

Brava a meno di cento chilometri da<br />

Barcellona; ma il saperlo non ti aiuta<br />

a riacquistare il senso della realtà.<br />

Tutto quadra invece quando rammenti<br />

che stai varcando la soglia del Teatre-<br />

Museu Dalì, la struttura che il più<br />

noto maestro del surrealismo decise di<br />

costruire per mettere in scena – letteralmente<br />

– la sua onirica visione del<br />

mondo.<br />

Questa storia inizia con un’ossessione.<br />

A partire dai primi anni Settanta,<br />

Salvador Dalì cominciò infatti ad<br />

essere tormentato dall’idea della<br />

morte e dell’immortalità. Con applicazione<br />

maniacale, s’interessò perfino<br />

ai progressi scientifici nel campo<br />

dell’ibernazione e della conservazione<br />

del DNA, per riuscire un giorno a<br />

rinascere. Ma i risultati degli studi<br />

furono scoraggianti. Tanto che preferì<br />

ben presto dedicarsi a un’altra forma<br />

di eternità, più spirituale (e realistica),<br />

quella che poteva garantirgli la conservazione<br />

della sua opera. Si prestava<br />

perfettamente allo scopo un teatro<br />

Inevitably, you look up to the top of the<br />

monument, which is adorned with giant<br />

eggs that look like they’ve been left there<br />

by some prehistoric bird. As if that’s not<br />

enough, as you get closer you notice that<br />

the sombre bas-reliefs you’d made out<br />

from afar on the pink facade of the castle<br />

actually form a pattern of traditional<br />

bread arranged all along the outside of<br />

the building. At this stage you just have<br />

to go with the flow. You’ve come to<br />

Figueras, a town in the northeast corner<br />

of Spain between the Pyrenees and<br />

the Costa Brava less than 100 km from<br />

Barcelona; this is the site of the Dali<br />

Theatre-Museum, the municipal theatre<br />

turned by the tormented Spanish genius<br />

into what is now billed as the largest surrealistic<br />

object in the world.<br />

From the early 1970s onwards, Salvador<br />

Dali was obsessed by the idea of death<br />

and immortality. He was also fascinated<br />

by scientific progress in the field of hibernation,<br />

DNA and cryonics. Since the<br />

results of this research were not encouraging,<br />

he soon opted for another form<br />

of eternal existence – more spiritual<br />

(yet also more realistic) – through the<br />

legacy of his works. Hence the project to<br />

rebuild and convert the theatre, largely<br />

destroyed in the Spanish Civil War, in<br />

his hometown of Figueras, where Dali<br />

was born in 1904. The Spanish visionary<br />

transformed the building into a showcase<br />

for his work, the idea being that the visitor<br />

should be a part of the experiment<br />

and interact the same way the audience<br />

does at a performance. This explains<br />

why the conversion began with the main<br />

stage, surmounted ten metres in height<br />

by an amazing geodesic glass dome roof<br />

cupola that creates incredible hallucinogenic<br />

light effects.<br />

This labyrinthine museum, which opened

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