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a typical 2-gallon container, I would use about 1 tablespoon in two places, on the floor of the<br />
container (before anything else is added <strong>to</strong> the container) and just under the bark mulch layer on <strong>to</strong>p.<br />
High phosphorus (high P) guanos affect the pH of the soil mix more than the higher nitrogen types,<br />
in my experience. This needs <strong>to</strong> be considered if using this globally mixed in the soil mix, as the pH<br />
will be dragged down heavily. Buffering it with ground oyster shells is a good idea, but keep in mind<br />
that <strong>to</strong>o high a concentration of additives such as high-P guanos, steamed bone meal, and even<br />
powdered soft rock phosphate (all higher-P dry fertilizers) globally mixed in your soil mix can have a<br />
real negative effect on the good fungus in your living mix. We love the good fungus in TLO and there<br />
are many kinds, including the mycorrhizal fungus, which are actually a critical part of TLO and any<br />
type of growing in a living soil mix.<br />
<strong>The</strong>se are a few of my favorite dry guanos<br />
A final note on guanos: don’t use these fresh out of the birds or bats, or else you will most likely kill<br />
your plants with them. Be very careful when collecting dry guano from bats or birds. Many dangerous<br />
things can be lurking, including a few types of fungi that are very nasty <strong>to</strong> humans. Always use a<br />
respira<strong>to</strong>r, and be sure <strong>to</strong> compost the guano first if at all possible. It must be at least dried before it is<br />
safely usable in container growing.<br />
Bone Meal vs. Steamed Bone Meal<br />
This is one of those things that seem irrelevant when you have synthetic mindset, but let me assure you<br />
that this is a very important distinction, and I’ll tell you why. Typically both kinds have N-P-K ratios<br />
of 3-15-0 or so. <strong>The</strong> steamed variety delivers way more available phosphorus faster than the plant