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¾ cup ground oyster shells (1 cup if no crushed oyster shells)<br />
1 cup crushed oyster shells (optional)<br />
½ cup dolomite lime (powdered)<br />
1¾ cup prilled (pelletized) fast-acting dolomite lime<br />
¼ cup blood meal<br />
¼ cup high N bird/bat guano 12-8-2 N-P-K<br />
½ heaping cup feather meal<br />
1 cup un-steamed granular bone meal (like Whitney Farms brand)<br />
½ cup bulb food<br />
¼ cup powdered soft rock phosphate<br />
½ heaping cup powdered gypsum<br />
½ cup kelp meal<br />
4 heaping cups composted steer manure (this inoculates your mix with specialized<br />
microbeasties and primo organic matter)<br />
½ cup Azomite granular (add an additional ¼ cup greensand if no Azomite)<br />
1 cup granular humic acid ore (such as Down <strong>to</strong> Earth brand)<br />
1 cup alfalfa meal (or 2 cups pellets—make sure pellets are all organic no additives)<br />
½ cup rock phosphate granular (optional)<br />
1 heaping cup organic rice (important for the good fungi in this soil mix)<br />
REV’S TIP<br />
with this recipe.<br />
This recipe is only for use with pure water sources, like reverse<br />
osmosis, rain, or distilled water. Do not use well, tap, or spring water<br />
This mix should be moistened with chlorine-free water, but be sure not <strong>to</strong> get it soaking wet. It<br />
should also be turned over every few days, for about 15 days before use. This is what I call<br />
“cooking” your soil, and letting it get pretty dry before use is fine. Again, the nutrients don’t<br />
evaporate or anything over time, so there are no worries there. If this soil mix turns out <strong>to</strong> be <strong>to</strong>o<br />
powerful for some reason, just cut it with good quality bagged organic soil until you get the strength<br />
your environment and genetics demand.<br />
I find cooking mine for about 30 days works the best for me, but I have often used it sooner, for<br />
example after 2 weeks. Just remember the warmer it is outside, the faster the cooking processes will<br />
happen. You can use a soil pH meter <strong>to</strong> tell when it is finished cooking <strong>to</strong>o. I wait until it is in the<br />
6.2–6.8 range, which normally takes about 2 weeks, because as it kicks off cooking the pH will often<br />
be very low. Readings of 4.9 aren’t uncommon when it first starts <strong>to</strong> cook.<br />
This soil mix is meant <strong>to</strong> be used along with the spike and layer TLO dynamic, and while it is