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Spikes, Layers, and Zones, Oh My!<br />
Here’s the first real big twist that separates TLO growing from most other all-natural styles. Spikes<br />
give a lot of power <strong>to</strong> hungry weeds indeed. <strong>The</strong> TLO soil mix in this book requires additional<br />
elements in the container, and spikes are essential for bringing in more important elements such as<br />
nitrogen and phosphorus, <strong>to</strong> name two biggies. Nitrogen and phosphorus cannot be added globally <strong>to</strong><br />
the soil mix in sufficient amounts, or there would be big problems with the microlife, and that is never<br />
a good thing in TLO growing.<br />
Here are a couple of the main spike mixes I use, made from all-natural dry elements blended <strong>to</strong>gether:<br />
ALL PURPOSE HIGH N SPIKE<br />
2 parts blood meal<br />
1 part steamed bone meal<br />
1 part high N bat/bird guano (N-P-K example 12-8-2)<br />
1 part feather meal<br />
1 part kelp meal<br />
FLOWERING SPIKE<br />
1 part bulb food (NPK example 3-8-8)<br />
1 part feather meal<br />
2 parts high N bat/bird guano<br />
1 part steamed bone meal<br />
1 part kelp meal<br />
In the picture of the s<strong>to</strong>re-bought Jobe spikes, you can see the concept that we’re going for here. You<br />
push these spikes in<strong>to</strong> the soil mix for your roots <strong>to</strong> find and feed from. In TLO you can use these<br />
spikes if you like, as long as they are all natural, or you can blend your own—like I do—with the<br />
recipes above. In TLO you just make holes in your containers’ soil mix and fill in those holes with the<br />
spike blends. I find a wooden dowel about ½ an inch wide makes for a great spike hole maker. You<br />
want <strong>to</strong> make the spikes BEFORE there are roots present, so I always do this during transplant, then<br />
the roots can find the spiked nutrients and adapt <strong>to</strong> them accordingly.