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quite capable of standing alone, it works super naturally when you add the spike and layering<br />
dynamics. If this is <strong>to</strong>o overwhelming of a formula, just use some of the fast soil mix recipes in this<br />
book, or use the base mix of this recipe with no cooking at all in order <strong>to</strong> get your feet wet, so <strong>to</strong><br />
speak.<br />
Base mix examined closer<br />
<strong>The</strong> organic soil mix or your recycled all-natural soil mix works fine here; just make sure your<br />
recycled soil mix has had the opportunity <strong>to</strong> cook and break down most of the raw root and leaf/stem<br />
matter, with some nitrogen added <strong>to</strong> catalyze those processes, as I explained above in the cooking<br />
your soil mix section. When I cook my recycling soil mix I tend <strong>to</strong> use chicken guano as my high N<br />
source, because it contains lower sodium and higher phosphorus than most barnyard manures.<br />
Don’t bother using a bagged soil mix that has added Mycorrhizal fungus here, because it will not<br />
survive the cooking process without living plant roots <strong>to</strong> attach <strong>to</strong>, so although it’s not harmful in any<br />
way, it’s just a waste of money. I also want <strong>to</strong> add that if you are going <strong>to</strong> be recycling your soil mix,<br />
make sure <strong>to</strong> avoid using a bagged soil mix with a large amount of peat moss in it. Peat moss tends <strong>to</strong><br />
really favor the fungus and will cause recycled soil mixes <strong>to</strong> drop <strong>to</strong> a very low pH; more about that<br />
in the troubleshooting section.<br />
Sup’r Green chicken poop is my favorite for recycling