1998-1999 Rothberg Yearbook

T h r o u g h M y E yee
by Seth Jaffe
Is there any way to sum up a year or a semester in Israel? Is it at all possible to
qualify the experience, doing it appropriate justice? The answer: probably not, but why not
try anyway? All of us share similar experiences, beginning—for many—with El Al, that
wonderful little airline that just loves security. The El Al motto goes something like, “just
say something stupid about security so we have an excuse to display your underwear to the
other bored passengers waiting in line.” When I first arrived in Israel last July on a group
flight, Hebrew University had no idea who we were or why we were standing at their doorstep.
A group of us, jet lagged and carrying all of our possessions, waited for a few hours
until it became clear that we were, in fact, in the correct place. This was my first—but of
course, not last—encounter with Israeli bureaucracy.
Those first few days feel so long ago. Days when life revolved around ulpan and
first falafels. Ahhhh, the beautiful days of ulpan, sun-filled days full of exploration and
mandatory third grade. If you arrived for second semester, please replace “sun-filled” in the
previous sentence with “rainy/chilly.” Personally, I hated third grade the first time around.
It turns out that I still hate third grade. But those were beautiful days, days when we all
made our first treks to: those fine folks who run the only ship in town and take it as a personal
affront if you show even the slightest annoyance at getting ripped off by inefficiency so
breathtaking that it gives new meaning to the word “incompetent;” but hey, that’s just the
opinion of one person.
Upon my arrival, I was shocked by how many ways Jerusalem varied from my norm:
bartering with cab drivers, bartering with venders, bartering with everyone for everything.
And the aggressiveness; Israel breeds aggressiveness (perhaps a necessary survival skill in
this region). In many ways, this aggressiveness is good. When I returned home over the
semester break, however, I found myself shoving old women and little children out of my
way and even jumping people in line if they left so much as a toothpick’s length between
themselves and any counter. In Israel, this type of behavior is a life skill; anywhere else, it
is a gross violation of etiquette.
And I cannot forget to mention politics. Every aspect of this country centers upon
politics. 1998-1999 has been marked by a series of unforgettable events. From the day the
bus-stop outside the old Rothberg building blew up, to the eve of a national election, this
year has been anything but boring. We sit on the edge of a new millennium, a time of
profound change for both Israel and the world. In recent years, Israel has experienced a
radical demographic shift; a growth in tension between secular Jews, religious Jews, and
peoples of different ethnic backgrounds; and, for the first time, a negotiated peace on all
fronts seems within reach. The country sits at a crossroads; one road heralding a flourishing
of new opportunities; and the other road heralding a growth in internal discord, characterized
by an increasingly corrosive debate about the role of law and religion in a Jewish democracy.
This year has also witnessed the acceptance by Likud of the land for peace formula,
as encapsulated in the Wye accords. Good or bad, this change is a watershed event. Following
the Wye Accords, we saw the Oslo process frozen by a Prime Minister tied in knots
by a tenuous coalition, a coalition that has since fallen. And as I write this, Israel sits on
the eve of a national election, an election that will shape Israel’s future for years to come.
Whether you love or hate politics, they pervade the very essence of Israel.
But overall, you have to love Israel. For all of the tension and discord, something
tangible remains of the Zionist dream: a place of refuge, a place of hope, and a place of
profound meaning. This state is a miracle, a tribute to the men and women whose sweat and
blood transformed distant dreams into tangible realities. For the overseas student, the Israel
experience requires laughter, persistence, and a desire to learn. For me, this year has been
full of highs and lows, but it has always been magical, something I will carry with me for
the rest of my life. Who knows, maybe it’s something in the air. . .