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Herzog and DeMeuron – the same architects who designed
the Bird’s Nest for the 2008 Beijing Olympics.
They also have plans for a school, university, restaurants
and shops and more apartments.
It then struck me how encouraging it was to see a
landmark construction project such as the HafenCity,
or ‘the genesis of an idea’ as it’s referred to, being
embarked on. Given the delicate state of the Eurozone,
it is either naively stupid or fantastically brave,
but either way the vision of growth in Hamburg is no
doubt admirable.
Next we drove down what seemed just a normal
street at first glance but ‘this is the Reeperbahn,’ the
guide said – a statement which prompted a few sniggers
and jeers from apparent locals on the bus. It
then became clear I had not looked closely enough,
we had wondered into St Pauli – home to Germany’s
most infamous Red Light District.
‘To get a real sense for the Reeperbahn, you must see
it at night time,’ was what our kind-faced and innocent-looking
tour guide told us. I looked at Martyn,
who was already eyeballing me, and without speaking
we had our Saturday night’s entertainment sorted out.
Leaving the hotel that night I noticed the temperature
outside had plummeted to minus 12 which forced an
involuntary gulp as I stepped out into the chilly
street. Donned in gloves, a scarf and a woolly hat for
a night out on the Reeperbahn I felt rather silly but as
soon as the sub-zero temperatures hit my face like a
cold hard slap, the last thing on my mind was any
fashion frets.
I instantly knew when we had hit the sinful mile as it
is otherwise known because all I could see were
nightclubs, sleazy strip clubs, discotheques and - shall
we say - erotic retail stores.
The experience was
something all very new
to me, of course, and I
found myself frozen to
the spot – not because of
the weather but because
of my state of panic. I
didn’t feel unsafe but
just out of my comfort
zone, though I was glad
to be accompanied by a
trusty pal just as innocent
and naïve as myself.
Within minutes, we became
quite accustomed
city breaks
to the act of politely repelling the countless number
of street workers and ladies of the night seeking
clientele.
Despite its reputation for being notoriously seedy the
Reeperbahn is under strict surveillance in the form of
the Davidwache, the suburb’s special police station.
The patrolling officers work tirelessly to ensure the
area is as clean and protected as possible and that
may be behind the reason why one of music’s greatest
ever bands decided to tour here in the 60’s.
Before they became worldwide superstars The Beatles
spent a couple of years playing at clubs and bars up
and down the strip. They soon became favourites at
the Grosse Freiheit and Kaisserkeller clubs and regularly
entertained audiences there between 1960 and
1962.
Following our frenetic night on the bedlam of the
Reeperbahn we decided our final day in Hamburg
would be best enjoyed in the comfort of our hotel
and the surrounding area. We took the chance to explore
the local town during the day before heading
once again to the HafenCity in the evening.
We’d been booked in to Carl’s - one of the finest
restaurants around - which provided a perfect contrast
to our previous night’s entertainment. I was sat
at a candle-lit table overlooking the beautiful River
Elbe and as I watched the large chunks of ice slowly
drift downstream, I must say I didn't feel like leaving
just yet.
I'd had one of the best weekends of my life...
Images:
Top left: HafenCity.
Left: Miniatur Wunderland and St Michaelis Church at Wunderland.
Above: The Grosse Freiheit Club
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