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tabletalk
The Hinds Head, Bray
MENTION HESTON BLUMENTHAL in
relation to food and this, usually, conjures
up images of a theatrical tableau on a
plate.
But, intriguingly, The Hinds Head sitting
just metres from his eponymous triple
Michelin-starred restaurant has all the
trappings of an archetypal village pub.
And, on a grey December day, as the
heavy oak door gives way to beamed
ceilings, a cosy bar area and welcoming
log fires, my companions and I felt
instantly inclined to kick back and enjoy
a leisurely Sunday lunch.
There’s also a comforting familiarity to
much of the menu. However, on closer
inspection, the choice and combination of
ingredients suggest this master of
ingenuity has some surprises in store.
Deciding to sample a reputed ‘Heston
classic’, four of us started with a Scotch
Egg (£3.75). It was a revelation. Hidden
within a warm quenelle of crispy, golden
breadcrumbs and sausagemeat was a still
runny, quail’s egg. While another also
pronounced their choice of the Teasmoked
Salmon with Soda Bread (£9.50)
delicious, any suggestion of sharing was
strenuously resisted.
Our selection of mains caused
Tackle part of the 2012 Olympic Road Race route as
38 part of the DEBRA Surrey Cycle on Sunday 12 May
2013, in aid of the charity DEBRA. DEBRA is the only
national charity that supports individuals and families
affected by Epidermolysis Bullosa (EB) – an excruciatingly
painful genetic skin blistering condition which causes the skin
to blister and shear at the slightest touch. EB is caused by a
breakdown in the natural proteins that hold the skin and
internal membranes together, causing blisters and sores that
have to be lanced and dressed daily – an excruciatingly
painful procedure, taking hours. Now in its second year, the
event starts and finishes at The Black Swan in Ockham. The
three circular routes of 30k, 60k and 100k will take you
around the idyllic Surrey Hills, famous for their rolling chalk
downs, challenging climbs and fun descents. Registration
costs £37 and includes event leaders, route signage, vehicle
support, mechanical back-up, and water stops, with a
suggested sponsorship of £125. To sign up for one of the
routes or for more information, please contact Hannah
Weston on 01344 467785 or email
hannah.weston@debra.org.uk.
I shall no doubt write more about this one nearer the time
but for now I can tell you that a local guy called Luke Mose
has taken it upon himself to organise a fun run to help raise
funds for Cancer Research UK - quite a number of his family
have been affected by cancer. It’s a 5k fun run called 'Run 4
Men' and will take place on Saturday 29th June at Stoke Park.
Inspired by the success of Race for Life, this male-only event
gives boys and men of all ages the opportunity to do their bit
and raise vital awareness and funds for Cancer Research UK.
The course is 5k, in which they can join by walking, jogging or
42 x R&A HASLEMERE & VILLAGES
considerable debate until one of the
bartenders recommended the Oxtail and
Kidney Pudding (£18.95). Those suitably
inspired were rewarded with a dish that
gave the illusion of simplicity, yet packed
depth of flavour, without being stodgy,
and was complemented by a heady
consommé. Keeping to the traditional
theme, I ordered the Shepherd’s Pie
topped with a Pan Fried Sweetbread
(£17.95) that came served in its own cast
iron pot. Again, appearances were
deceptive with minced and diced lamb
covered in a lovely crunchy topping.
Being the Sabbath, Roast Sirloin of Pure
Bred Hereford Beef with Yorkshire
Pudding (£23.50) caught the eye too and
came rare, exactly as requested. The final
addition to our now keenly swapped
smorgasbord was the Wild Mushroom
Macaroni with Slow Cooked Hen Egg
(£17.95). Another triumph.
Accompanied by sides of Triple Cooked
Chips (£4.25) and Spiced Red Cabbage
(£2.95), and washed down with a highly
quaffable bottle of Valpolicella (c. £30)
the question was, how could dessert
(£7.95) possibly top this?
While the 17th century Quaking
Pudding, was intriguing and the Treacle
Tart with Brandy Ice Cream was a
spruced-up schooldays favourite, our
table’s undisputed star was the Rhubarb
Trifle. The inspired addition of lime
cutting through the delicately layered
sponge, fruit and custard, left excited
tastebuds tingling for more.
Having chosen to sit in the upstairs
dining area we found it spacious but
retaining its traditional feel and the
service throughout was spot-on.
Pints are pulled and glasses of wine are
poured, but this is no ordinary pub. It’s
extraordinary. Heston works his magic at
The Hinds Head and at under an hour’s
drive away, I’ll definitely be looking for
another excuse to return. VM
THE HINDS HEAD
High Street, Bray SL6 2AB
T: 01628 626151
www.hindsheadbray.co.uk
Viv Micklefield was a paying customer accompanied
by family and friends
running, on their own or in a group, wearing shorts and t-shirt
or go to town with fancy dress. What’s most important is that
as many people as possible come along and enjoy themselves.
More information will be available online via
www.run4men.org.uk.
Watts Gallery Writer in Residence, Katherine Clements, will
lead new creative writing workshops using aspects of the
Watts Gallery, the collection and its surroundings to
generate writing ideas. Three sessions will cover aspects of
writing craft, such as finding ideas, creating characters and
developing plot lines, and will focus on writing fiction,
although poetry and non-fiction might also be produced. The
course will also include a look at how Watts work has inspired
writers in the past, and encourage participants to produce
original writing based on their own experiences. The
workshops are intended for the beginning writer, although
activities could be equally useful for more experienced
writers wanting to explore new sources of inspiration, or to
meet and work with fellow writers. A safe, collaborative
atmosphere will be fostered where writers will be encouraged
to share their work. Workshops can be booked as a one-off,
or a short course of three sessions. Katherine Clements is a
short story writer and novelist, whose work has been
published in various magazines and anthologies. Her debut
novel will be published in 2014. The sessions are on Saturday
9th, Saturday 16th and Saturday 23rd March and run from
10.45 am to 4pm and cost £45/£35 (Friends of Watts Gallery)
each or £100/£90 (Friends of Watts Gallery) for all three. For
more information or to book visit www.wattsgallery.org.uk or
call 01483 813593.
February 2013