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MINI BREAKS 36JetAway Short-haul trips leaving the little ones short-changed? Make the most of Italy’s Eternal City with these tot-friendly tips Words Robina Dam Portraits Oliviero Olivieri
Above: JetAway editor Robina Dam and baby Roman. St Peter’s Basilica in the Vatican can be seen in the distance NOVEMBER– DECEMBER rinking aperitivos in the early evening, having a late dinner under the stars and then hitting the hotel bar for a nightcap: that pretty much summed up the last holiday I had in Rome with friends a few years ago when I was single. Fast forward and I’m returning to the city of la dolce vita, not only with a bloke in tow, but a one-year-old baby, aptly named Roman. So how can you make the most of a city break with baggage (in the nicest possible way) of a different kind? And how best to adapt your itinerary to fit the needs of a young family while still making the most of Rome? The stereotype of children-loving Italians is so true that it kicks off right from the start: a nun in the queue for the taxi rank helped with our luggage (we had God on our side). Then came our macho taxi driver (a former policeman whose official vehicle used to be a Lamborghini – only in Italy would this be normal) who couldn’t do enough to help us. Frankly, why go anywhere else with a bambino? In the Eternal City, you’re on safe ground to do the following: Eat Out It’s so much easier to do here. Italian restaurants are not only cool about having little ones scampering around; they often actively engage with the kids while you chow down pasta. In the centre of town near the Piazza Navona is a gem called Ristorante Maccheroni (44 Piazza delle Coppelle). Even non-Roman Italians make a point of visiting this former butcher’s shop which has retained the meat hooks and white tiles. The basic-looking interior belies the amazing food, priced around £8-£10 for main courses. While we tucked into plates of (you guessed it) macaroni with provolone cheese and trofie with courgette flowers and saffron, the baby was whisked off into the kitchen by the staff. He returned uncooked. For one of the best pizzas in town, check out the Al Forno della Soffitta (62-64 Via Piave), with its huge wood-burning oven taking centre stage. On the bar are cured hams which the silver-fox owner carves carefully as you can see on its interactive website, alfornodellasoffitta.it. It looks like a cosy neighbourhood restaurant but people come from all over the city for its award-winning pizzas priced at £8-£9 (it was a semifinalist in a national pizza competition). Jet2.com 37
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