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TENERIFE BITES Off The Eaten Track Sampling Tenerife’s plentiful produce is always a pleasure, but experts head for one of its little-known local restaurants, or guachinches. Heidi Fuller-Love tours the island’s best-kept culinary secrets 40JetAway
PHOTO TIM WHITE NOVEMBER– DECEMBER The wooden door studded with nails didn’t seem very promising as my guide Juan rapped on it authoritatively. But when it finally swung open, however, the air filled with a heavenly fragrance of charred rosemary, braised pork and something that smelled like roasted apples. This was the last stop on my weekend tour of Tenerife’s guachinches (pronounced “gwa-chin-chis”), local restaurants for in-the-know gourmet diners. These no-frills venues are found in backyards and garages all over the island and derive their name from a corruption of “watchingye” (or “I’m watching you”), a phrase used by English merchants in the 16th century when they wanted to try the local malmsey wine with a view to purchasing. Originally just a backroom in the local vintner’s house where the wife served tapas of chickpea stew and broiled goat’s meat to wine buyers, guachinches have evolved into strictly controlled, good-value eateries serving homemade food and homegrown wine. Often overlooked by visitors, many guachinches are situated in the north of the island, an hour’s drive from Reina Sofia Airport (Tenerife South) The air fills with the fragrance of charred rosemary, braised pork and what smells like roasted apples and home to several wine-producing regions, but there are also excellent ones in the south, where I started my tour. Since they are often hidden down alleys or along winding country lanes, I took local Juan Castellanos along as my guide. We drove through dappled autumn sunlight to the provincial capital of Granadilla, where a wiggly road hedged with prickly pears (perfect for jam) climbed to Cruz de Tea, a scattering of brightly coloured houses spread over the foothills of the 2,700-metre-high Guajara mountain. En route we discussed the staples of Tenerifian home cooking: brine-fresh fish soup sancocho, chickpea stew potaje de berros, sweet blood sausage morcillas dulces and hearty pimiento sauces known as mojos. “Every family has their own special mojo recipe,” Juan told me. All this talk of food gave me a good appetite by the time we reached our first guachinche at noon. We entered through a plain wooden door into the cool and cave-like dining room of Cumbres de Abono Jet2.com 41
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