march-2012

TRAVELLER
Wonderland
With its hot springs and icy fj ords, there’s nowhere
quite like Iceland. Are you ready for the adventure?
How Spain went crazy
for gin and tonic
18 reasons to visit
Zagreb in 2012
Sun, sand and serious
culture in Malta
Tel Aviv’s coolest
new art district
MARCH 2012
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MARCH 2012 | ISSUE 123
Fresh
Sparkling
Cool
JANUARY – APRIL
2012
DON’T FORGET TO
look through our
Boutique and Bistro
magazine for great
value gift ideas or
just to treat yourself.
If you’re a beauty
queen, why not save
£5/€6.50 when
you buy any two
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or freshen up your
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Delicious Fresh
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(page 5), an amazing
half price off the UK
high street.
For the watch
lover, check out the
great savings on all
Sekonda watches
(page 18), or treat
that special someone
with the Estella
Bartlett Tennis
Bracelet £25/€32
(page 16).
Forgotten your
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solved with our
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22), for great snaps
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In need of
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FEATURES
48 Another World
Accept our invitation
for your next big
adventure: Iceland
56 Secret North
Come on a foodie road
trip to explore the UK’s
culinary explosion
62 Under the
Andalusian Sun
50 years after Penelope
Chetwode rode a horse
through Andalusia, we
follow her trail
66 The New
Faces of Zagreb
Meet the tastemakers
turning the Croatian
capital into a city
of culture
74 Flights of Fancy
Who says airports
can’t be fabulous? Not
us as we select the
network’s best looking
80 Maltese
Crossing
Take a trip to Valletta’s
historic streets for a
cultural spring break
92 Fever Rising
The British soft-drinks
brand that’s become a
real tonic in Spain
94 Northern
Exposure
How Amsterdam’s
Noord district went
from down and dirty
to highly hip
66
COVER IMAGE NORDIC PHOTOS/ARNALDUR HALLDORSSON PHOTOS © NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC, TIM WHITE, FLORENT DRILLON, BERNARD TSCHUMI ARCHITECTS contents
48
TRAVELLER | 3

MARCH 2012 | ISSUE 123
contents
16
THE BUZZ
10 Flower Power in Amsterdam
12 Gossip From Across the Network
15 Edinburgh’s Most Expensive Whisky
16 Meet Caravan Palace
18 Fort Museum near Lyon |
The Paris of Bel Ami | Where To Splurge
20 Tel Aviv’s New Art Scene
22 Where to Volunteer on the Network
25 The Must See: Wodan Coaster in Basel
26 Gran Canaria: Pleasure Island
28 Neighbourhood Watch: Baixa,
Porto | Trendwatching
30 Greece’s Top Chef Pops Up in London
33 Berlin’s Spies | Klimt’s Birthday | Easter
35 Art on the Côte d’Azur, Perfume Making
in Marseille, Fashion Hotel in Amsterdam
36 Photo Competition
39 Book Ahead
40 Hotel News and Reviews
42 Restaurant reviews
106 Route Map and Destination Guides
LAST WORD
183 Meet the Crew
184 Passenger Info
186 Espana
187 Italia
188 Suisse/
Schweiz
4 | TRAVELLER
189 Deutschland
190 France
191 UK
193 Business News
194 Film Director
Miguel Gonçalves
Mendes on Lisbon
18
15
EDITORIAL & ART
Editor Simon Kurs
Deputy Editor Sarah Warwick
Art Director Blue Buxton
Destinations Editor Amy Dennis
Picture Editor Alex Ortiz
Fashion Director Nino Bauti
Sub-Editor Liz Granirer
Destinations Sub-Editor Alex Gilly, Julie Alpine
Production Manager Antonia Ferraro
easyJet Brand Livery Executive
(General contact for magazine) Natalie Yeung
Flight Bookings easyJet.com
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Sales Director Mark Duke
Associate Publisher Kevin Smith
European Key Account Manager
Darren Paternoster
European Sales Team Tara Brady, Phil Castle,
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Darren Hughes, Irving Landeros
Sales recruitment
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Publishing Director Simon Leslie
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BIENVENIDO | BIENVENUE | BENVENUTO | WILLKOMMEN
WELCOME
HELLO AND A VERY warm welcome on
board. Whether you’re a seasoned
customer or fl ying with us for the fi rst time,
we are committed to making your travel
easier and more aff ordable, and I hope that
our recent developments show this.
Our mobile app has received the most
fantastic customer reviews and has
already been downloaded by half a million
of you. Available free for both iPhones and
Android phones, it allows you to book and
manage your fl ights from the palm of your
hand. You can download it through the
iPhone app store and Android market.
I am also delighted that we’re launching
new bases in Nice and Toulouse this
Hola y bienvenido a bordo.
Me gustaría informarte sobre
algunas novedades que espero
te demuestren nuestro compromiso
por hacer que vueles de una forma más
sencilla y económica.
Nuestra nueva aplicación para
móviles ha recibido opiniones muy
positivas y ya tiene medio millón de descargas.
Esta aplicación gratuita permite
reservar y administrar los vuelos desde
cualquier lugar y, en breve, se añadirá
una nueva función. Puedes descargarla
desde el iPhone App Store o el Android
Market.
También me complace anunciar la
inauguración de nuevas bases en Niza y
Toulouse, con lo que nuestro número de
bases en Francia subirá hasta cinco. Esto
son buenas noticias para muchos de
nuestros clientes de ocio y de negocios,
ya que tendrán nuevas rutas para elegir.
Por último, me gustaría hablar sobre
el Día Europeo del 112, celebrado en
febrero. El 112 es el número de emergencias
europeo, que permite que
usuarios de toda la UE puedan contactar
directamente con los servicios de
emergencia. Vuestra seguridad fuera del
avión también es muy importante para
nosotros, así que anotadlo bien.
Deseo que tengas un fantástico vuelo!
If you have any thoughts
or suggestions, email us at
carolyn@easyJet.com
month, bringing our number of French
bases to fi ve. That’s good news for many
of our leisure and business customers,
who will have even more choice of routes.
Finally, I’d like to discuss a very
worthwhile initiative. On 11 February, the
27 countries of the EU celebrated
European 112 day. Connecting callers
directly to the emergency services, 112
is the free emergency number that can
be dialled from any phone, anywhere
across the EU. Your safety is as important
to us off the plane as on it, so please make
a note of this number.
Until next time, thanks for choosing us
and have a great fl ight.
Buongiorno e benvenuto a
bordo. Non so se stai volando
con noi per la prima o per la
milionesima volta, so però che vogliamo
rendere ogni tuo viaggio il più semplice
e conveniente possibile. E spero che le
nostre ultime novità lo dimostrino. La
nostra app, per esempio, ha ricevuto
magnifi che recensioni e 500 mila persone
l’hanno già scaricata sul loro smartphone.
Provala anche tu: è gratis sia per iPhone
che per Android e ti permetterà di
prenotare e controllare i tuoi voli ovunque
ti trovi. Inoltre sono lieta di annunciarti
che questo mese apriremo nuovi scali a
Nizza e Tolosa, portando così a 5 il numero
di scali in Francia. Una buona notizia sia
che tu voli per piacere o per lavoro: ci
saranno ancora più rotte tra cui potrai
scegliere. Concludo con un promemoria.
L’11 febbraio abbiamo festeggiato il
Giorno Europeo del 112, il numero di
telefono d’emergenza gratuito. Per noi è
importante la tua sicurezza, anche una
volta che sarai sceso dall’aereo, perciò, per
favore, prendi nota di questo numero. Così
in qualsiasi Paese dell’Unione Europea
tu ti trova, sarai messo direttamente in
contatto con i servizi d’emergenza.
Ho fi nito. Non mi resta che ringraziarti
per averci scelto e augurarti buon viaggio.
Turn to pages 181–192 for
our latest news. For any
queries or further information,
visit easyJet.com
Bonjour et bienvenue à bord.
J’aimerais vous informer
de certaines nouveautés. Notre
nouvelle application pour téléphone
portable a déjà été téléchargée par un
demi-million d’entre vous. Cette application
gratuite vous permet de réaliser vos
réservations et de gérer vos vols. De nouvelles
fonctions seront bientôt ajoutées.
N’hésitez pas à l’essayer (disponible sur
l’app store et Android market).
J’ai également le plaisir de vous
annoncer l’ouverture ce mois-ci de
nouvelles bases à Nice et à Toulouse,
élevant le nombre de bases en France à
cinq. Une excellente nouvelle pour nos
clients d’aff aires et pour les particuliers
qui pourront maintenant choisir parmi
davantage de destinations.
J’aimerais enfi n vous parler de la
journée européenne du 112 qui s’est
tenue le mois dernier. Le 112 est le
numéro de téléphone des urgences
permettant à toute personne se trouvant
dans l’Union européenne d’être connectée
directement aux services des
urgences. Votre sécurité dans l’avion est
aussi importante pour nous que votre
sécurité à l’extérieur, alors prenez note
de ce numéro.
Bon vol.
Received great service
on board? Please tell us!
Turn to page 182 to share
the Orange Spirit!
Carolyn McCall
easyJet Chief Executive
Hallo und willkommen an Bord.
Ich möchte Ihnen von
einigen neuen Entwicklungen
berichten, die Ihnen zeigen, wie sehr
wir uns bemühen, Reisen einfacher und
erschwinglicher zu gestalten.
Unsere neue Smartphone App hat
positive Kundenbewertungen erhalten
und wurde bereits eine halbe Million
Mal heruntergeladen. Die kostenlose
App ermöglicht es, Flüge von unterwegs
zu buchen und zu verwalten, und
bald kommen neue Funktionen hinzu.
Probieren Sie die im iPhone App Store
und im Android Market erhältliche App
einfach aus!
Außerdem bin ich erfreut, dass wir
in diesem Monat neue Basen in Nizza
und Toulouse eröff nen und so mit fünf
Basen in Frankreich vertreten sind. Tolle
Neuigkeiten für viele unserer Privat- und
Geschäftsreisenden, die eine größere
Auswahl an Flugstrecken haben werden.
Abschließend möchte ich auf den
europäischen „112-Tag“ hinweisen, der
im letzten Monat gefeiert wurde. Über die
kostenlose Notrufnummer 112 erreichen
Sie überall in der EU direkt die Notdienststellen.
Da uns Ihre Sicherheit nicht nur
bei uns an Bord wichtig ist, merken Sie
sich bitte diese Nummer.
Gute Reise.
NEW
Download our free App
for iPhone & Android –
wherever you’re going,
take us with you
TRAVELLER | 9

60
INSPIRING
IDEAS FOR
YOUR DIARY

THE BUZZ
Keukenhof and Floriade
AMSTERDAM
That’s what they call fl ower power. A
vast carpet of blooms awaits visitors to
the Netherlands this spring, as the
country hosts two huge horticultural
events. Prize-winning park Keukenhof
(keukenhof.nl, seen here), open from 22
March to 20 May, is one of the most
photographed places in the world, with
more than seven-million fl owers
(including over 100 varieties of tulip)
and 2,500 trees. If that’s not enough
blooms for you, there’s also the
once-in-a-decade chance to visit the
Floriade World Horticultural Expo
(fl oriade.com), which opens in Venlo,
two hours south-east of the ’Dam, on
5 April. It all sounds blooming brilliant...
unless you’re hay fever prone.
WORDS LUCY FINNEGAN

THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS
GOSSIP FROM THE NETWORK
WORD OF MOUTH
Young At Park
LONDON
Visitors heading for LEGOLAND this
Easter will fi nd some special helpers
– junior concierges. Six kids, aged
between eight and 12, were chosen from
thousands of applicants for the “dream
holiday job” at the new LEGOLAND
Windsor Resort Hotel. The children will
be advising the hotel’s youngest guests
on what to do while they’re there and will
be paid with a weekend stay in the hotel
and plenty of lego. legoland.co.uk
NETWORK IN NUMBERS
€25m
ROME
Estimated cost
of renovating
the Colosseum.
With more than
6m visitors a
year, the ancient
amphitheatre is
arguably the city’s
most famous
building, but it
caused concern
last year when bits
of 2,000-year-old
plaster came
crumbling down.
12 | TRAVELLER
52
STOCKHOLM
Contributors to
Sweden’s offi cial
Twitter account,
@sweden, this
year, with a
new author
every week. So
far, a Bosnian
immigrant and
a lesbian truck
driver have shown
the country’s
diversity.
curatorsofsweden.
com
3
ATHENS
Number of works
stolen from
the National
Art Gallery in
Athens during a
recent heist. This
includes Woman’s
Head (1939) by
Pablo Picasso,
who donated it to
the Greek state
in recognition of
resistance to Nazi
occupation during
World War II.
35x61mm
PARIS
Size of a tiny
book, created
and written by
Jane Eyre author
Charlotte Brontë
when she was
14. It has gone
on display at the
Parisian Musée
des Lettres et
Manuscrits, which
bought the book,
written in 1830,
for more than
€820,000.
A Bridge Too Far?
EDINBURGH
Not a fan of heights? You’ll want to steer clear of the latest plans
being mooted for the Forth Bridge then. Local authorities have
announced they’re considering putting a viewing platform atop
the 91m-high structure – which connects the Scottish capital
with Fife – providing an incredible view across the Firth. The
news comes after the 10-year-long job of painting the iconic
span fi nally concluded last December. forthbridges.org.uk

WORDS SPRINGWISE.COM | PHOTOS © GETTY, REUTERS
Drinker’s Revenge
SPAIN If you’ve ever been served warm beer in Spain,
you can now get your own back. A new website called
Guia Garrafon (meaning “drinking guide”) has been
launched to give punters the chance to report bars that
are serving inauthentic or bad drinks, or skimping on
proper measures. guiagarrafon.com

SETTING STANDARDS
I N T H E H E A R T O F T H E M E D I T E R R A N E A N
Tumas Developments, 1052 Portomaso, St Julian’s, STJ 4011, Malta
Tel Tumas : (+356) Developments, 21 386 802 Mob 1052 : (+356) Portomaso, 79 497 504 St Julian’s, STJ 4011, Malta
Email Tel : : (+356)
info@tumasdevelopments.com
21 386 802 Mob : (+356) Web 79 497 : www.tumasdevelopments.com
504
Email : info@tumasdevelopments.com Web : www.tumasdevelopments.com
LUXURY LIVING
on the island of Malta
Tumas Developments proudly offer Malta’s
most exclusive, standard setting lifestyle
addresses. All three award-winning projects
boast the most spectacular waterfront views
on the island and offer Special Designated
Area benefits, which means that property
can be purchased under the same
conditions as locals. Being a member of the
EU with growing business incentives and
voted as having “The Best Climate on
Earth”, Malta is the ideal destination.

WORDS WILLIAM PARRY
Whisky Max
EDINBURGH How do you like your whisky? On the
rocks? With a splash of water? In the unlikely event
that your answer is “at £50,000 [€60,000] a bottle”,
then you’re in luck. Until the end of March, you can
submit your sealed bid for the only bottle of Zenith
(whiskyshop.com/zenith), a blend of Dalmore’s single
malts from 1926, 1951 and 1964. Coming from one of
Scotland’s most renowned distilleries, it’s certainly a
mouth-watering prospect, but with 50 grand as the
starting bid (and word is that several bids already
well exceed that), you’ll have to really like your whisky.
Zenith’s valuation may be extreme, but it’s in line
with a trend that saw prices for bottles of exceedingly
rare scotch break several records last year. One
bottle of Dalmore 62 year old sold at Singapore
airport’s duty free shop for £125,000 (€150,200).
This liquid gold isn’t just for drinking. Veteran
whisky-investment consultant and independent
valuer Andy Simpson (whiskyhighland.co.uk) sees
“investment-grade scotch” as smart speculation. In
2011, he bought and sold some 45 bottles of scotch,
which showed an average increase of 130% in a year.
According to Simpson, the top performing 250
bottles increased in value by over 50% in the last
quarter of 2011. “That was exceptional. I don’t think
the rises we’ve seen recently are sustainable,” he
concedes. “I see increases becoming more gradual.
But do I see the market crashing? No. Do I see scotch
as a viable, long-term investment? Yes.”
The word whisky, from the Scottish Gaelic uisge
beatha, means “water of life” and it is certainly that
to today’s otherwise lacklustre UK economy. Exports
of scotch in the fi rst three quarters of 2011 reached
record levels of almost £3 (€3.6) billion – an increase
of 23% in the same period of 2010 – and this
demand is due primarily to the emerging wealth of
the BRIC countries (Brazil, Russia, India and China),
where scotch is a status symbol.
THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS
A WEE DRAM A visit to the ’Burgh is the best place to kick off your whisky education
THE SCOTCH WHISKY
EXPERIENCE
This museum off ers a range
of whisky tours, tastings and
a well-stocked shop. It also
houses the Diageo Claive Vidiz
Collection of 3,384 rare bottles
of scotch, shown left.
scotchwhiskyexperience.co.uk
MALMAISON
Stay at Edinburgh’s scenically
situated fi ve-star hotel and
relax with a large glass of fi re
water. Make your selection
from an impressive menu of
more than 60 whiskies.
malmaison.com/hotels/
edinburgh
THE BOW BAR
There are more than 200
single malts to choose from at
this traditional Scottish pub,
where the focus is on whisky,
including a featured Malt of
the Moment. 80 West Bow,
Old Town, Edinburgh; tel: +44
(0)131 226 7667
TRAVELLER | 15

WORDS MONISHA RAJESH | PHOTO © FLORENT DRILLON
THE BUZZ | PROFILE
Q+A
Kings of Swing
As Parisian electro-swing trailblazers Caravan Palace return to the stage this month
with a new album, we fi nd out why they’re tipped to be the hot sound of 2012...
PARIS Get your dancing shoes on, folks.
The best band you’ve never heard of,
Caravan Palace, is back. Four years after
their eponymous fi rst album accrued
a cult following for its unique blend of
electro swing and gypsy jazz, the quintet
is embarking on a tour, playing dates and
festivals across Europe – with a second
album out to boot. What’s the inspiration
behind their crazy fusion music? We
caught up with the band’s violinist,
Hugues Payen, to fi nd out...
Is it good to be back?
“We went a year and a half without playing
any concerts, so when we did some at the
end of last year, there was a real feeling
of liberation – especially during our
concert at La Cigale, where we found that
16 | TRAVELLER
ambiance particular to Paris: a mixture of
attentive listening and unbridled energy.”
Is your new album, Panic, very diff erent?
“We’ve tried to vary the genre and take
it down some unexpected paths. The
concerts we did for the fi rst album
made us understand our strengths and
weaknesses, so we’ve tried to develop the
former and rectify the latter.
“The basic concept is the same: to mix
electronic and swing music. Production
has developed dramatically since
our fi rst album, so we’ve had to really
think about a new way to produce this
combination, while keeping the sound
and characteristic energy the public like.”
How did the band come together?
“Charles (bass player), Arnaud (guitarist)
and I were originally producing electronic
music, but we also played gypsy jazz at
bars and weddings. We were trying to fi nd
a way to combine our two passions when
a fi lm production company asked us to
provide a soundtrack to a 1920s silent
movie. Our friends really liked what they
heard and voilà! We recruited Antoine and
Zoé via Myspace.”
Are you all similar in style?
“Our musical backgrounds are quite
diff erent: one is largely classical and rock,
another funk, then jazz and even ska,
which shows that our collaboration feeds
off our diff erences.”
Who inspires you?
“Our infl uences come from between
the 1930s and 1950s. We’ve got a real
weakness for American swing and we’ve
liked gypsy guitarist Django Reinhardt

From left to
right, Arnaud
de Bosredon,
Charles
Delaporte,
Antoine
Toustou, Zoé
Colotis and
Hugues Payen
for a long time. Paris was, for a time, the
epicentre of this music and it has never
really disappeared. In recent years, artists
like Sanseverino and Thomas Dutronc
have embraced it.
“Our infl uences in electronic music
are very diff erent, given the incredible
vitality of this style in recent years. The
advantage of electronic music is that it
has no boundaries and its creativity has
no limits. It can be very commercial, like
Lady Gaga, or elitist, like Gui Borrato.”
Do you think electro-swing is becoming
more popular?
“Since 2008, Europe has been getting to
know this style and its representatives
have multiplied. DJ Parov Stelar tours
globally, and lindy-hop dance nights
fl ourish in Paris, London and Berlin.
There’s a real audience for this music.”
You’re known for being a great festival band.
Do you have a favourite?
“La Fête de l’Huma in Paris, where we
played to 65,000 people, or the Montreal
Jazz Festival, where we played on the
same stage that Herbie Hancock had
played on two days earlier. Our most
memorable is probably the Paléo Festival
in Nyon, Switzerland. The organisers
had enough faith in us to have us play
two consecutive days, but after the fi rst
performance, we celebrated so hard we’d
lost our voices by the next day!”
Where can we see you on tour?
“We start our tour in mid-March. France
is still our main playground, but we played
a lot of overseas gigs for the fi rst album
and it’s logical that we do that again. For
the time being, we’ll be playing in France,
Switzerland and Germany, and probably
in England and Canada.”
Where are your favourite places to go out
in Paris?
“Pigalle and the Grands Boulevards
are a must. There’s a great variety of
theatres, bars and clubs. You’ll fi nd us
hanging out at Le Trianon, La Cigale and
of course Le Moulin Rouge, Le Silencio
and Le Social Club. We often have a drink
at Chez Moune or Le Carmen in the
9th arrondisement – bars that are nice,
simple and friendly!”
Caravan Palace start their tour on 13
March in Angoulême, near Bordeaux. The
band will play Le Trianon in Paris on 19-20
March and various festivals throughout
the summer. Their album, Panic, is out on
5 March (myspace.com/caravanpalace).

THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS
What’s going on?
HAVE A SPLURGE
8-15 MARCH
BASELWORLD
BASEL
Hold on to your tiaras, there are
some seriously bling items on show
at this mega watch-and-jewellery
show. More than 1,800 luxury
brands will be exhibiting their new
designs, so if you’re in the market
for diamonds for your fi ngers or an
elegant timepiece for your wrist,
look no further.
baselworld.com
16-25 MARCH
TEFAF Maastrict
DUSSELDORF
Self-styled as the “World’s Leading
Art and Antiques Fair”, this expo is
certainly impressive. Head to the
purpose-built exhibition space in
Maastricht, just over an hour from
Dusseldorf airport, for 7,000 years’
worth of carefully vetted fi ne art: just
don’t expect too many bargains.
tefaf.com
25 MARCH
Naviglio Grande
Antiques Market
MILAN
This market stretches along
for almost 2km on both sides
of Milan’s oldest canal, Naviglio
Grande. Stock up on everything from
collectable furniture to worthless but
charming bric-a-brac. The market is
held on the last Sunday of the month,
9am to 6pm. navigliogrande.mi.it
18 | TRAVELLER
Shrubs and grasses have
been planted in the roof
of this museum to
minimise the visual
impact on the landscape
Fort Provoking
LYON For many of us, what scant
knowledge we have of the Gauls – the
Celtic people who ruled France in the fi rst
years AD – we’ve gleaned from Albert
Uderzo’s Astérix cartoons. But now,
thanks to a new drum-like structure that
has sprung up in rural Burgundy, all this
may be set to change.
The MuséoParc Alésia, about 2½
hours’ drive north of Lyon, which will open
on 26 March, commemorates a great
battle fought here between the victorious
Romans and vanquished Gauls.
Inspired by pictures of Roman
fortifi cations, and designed by the team
behind the Acropolis Museum, the
timber-clad building marks the exact
spot where Julius Caesar’s invading
Roman army camped in 52BC before
their triumph. Its interactive displays
will give this 2,000-year-old tale a new
lease of life, and promise to be at least as
exciting as the exploits of Astérix and his
buddies. alesia.com
Finding your way in...
THE PARIS OF BEL AMI
Post-Twilight, Robert Pattinson is back in cinemas this month as a 19th-century
seducer in Bel Ami. But did you know you can visit the real-life settings for the story?
FOLIES BERGÈRE
In the fi lm, newspaperman
Charles Forestier takes
Pattinson’s character to this
icon of excess. The famously
dissolute nightclub is now
toned down, but still hosts
musical theatre for quite a
crowd. foliesbergere.com
RUE PIERRE FONTAINE
First home to Forestier, and
later Bel Ami himself, door 17
on this 9th arrondissement
street fi gures highly in the
book as the location for
assignations and betrayals.
It’s now home to handmade
shoeshop Clairvoy,
L’ÉGLISE DE LA
MADELEINE
One of Europe’s most unusual
churches, this historic hotspot
provides the setting for Bel
Ami’s dramatic denouement
but it’s worth a visit for its
dramatic architecture alone.
eglise-lamadeleine.com

WORDS BENJAMIN EVANS | PHOTOS © GILAD KAVALERCHIK/FRAU BLAU
THE BUZZ | TEL AVIV ART
Cool Collective
It’s the Year of Art in Israel’s capital and there’s plenty
more to see than just the usual Bauhaus schtick. Discover
an inner-city area where the kibbutz ideal is being revived
TEL AVIV
Down the dusty backstreets south of
the city’s central district, among wig
shops and appliance stores, the hippest
neighbourhood in Tel Aviv awaits the
intrepid cultural tourist.
Once the city’s ‘Electric Garden’,
where workers from the local powerplant
lived, since 2006 Gan Hahashmal,
has welcomed a network of artists
and designers whose cohesive, all-forone
living style, under the name Gan
Hahashmal Collective, has turned an
uncared-for area into the trendiest place
in town – albeit one that’s still slightly
tatty around the edges.
Where once the street vibe was
fraught, graphic artist Yakir Segev,
and one of the area’s key trailblazers,
attests that “the area has become
so much more trendy and relaxed”,
revitalised by an infl ux of indie arty folk
and their quirky boutiques, cool clubs
and DIY art galleries.
Among these is Segev’s own pet
project, Hanina Contemporary Art
(hanina.org), a not-for-profi t,
kibbutz-style art commune set up to
exhibit talent more experimental and
edgy than is typically found in the swish
galleries on Rothschild Boulevard.
Aside from art shows, it serves as a
cultural centre that helps knit the diverse
local community together. Whether
auctioning lost-and-found objects
(proceeds go to a nearby homeless
20 | TRAVELLER
Gan Hahashmal
is home to a young,
trendsetting crowd
“The area has become so much
more trendy and relaxed”
shelter) or off ering free photographic
portraits to neighbours, this is an art
community with dirt under its fi ngernails.
The changes in Gad Hahachmal
refl ect a far bigger shift: the remarkable
transformation of Tel Aviv into a mustvisit
arts destination. This year has seen
the inaugeration of a new Museum of
Art, with the world’s largest collection
of Israeli works, while 2012 has been
offi cially designated the Year of Art’. It
signifi es a real determination on the part
The street vibe is
Levontin casual and 7 is friendly the
place in the to rejuvenated head
for ‘Electric’ a night district
of music
of the city to make its mark as a cultural
powerhouse.
A four-day Art Weekend – from 21-
24 March – will be the highlight of this
period, when the museum will serve as
the hub for a whirlwind of talks, exhibits,
fi lm screenings, tours and open-air dance
performances. On Thursday 22 March, it
will open around the clock for a 24-hourlong
extravaganza.
Amid all this offi cial activity, taking
a breather in Gan Hahashmal will provide

Hanina
Contemporary
Art is run by an
artists’ collective
an opportunity to discover a creative
scene in the raw.
Aside from the art, the area’s cuttingedge
credentials are further asserted
by the presence of a number of indie
fashion houses. In fact, some of Israel’s
hottest labels can be found behind
unostentatious storefronts, such as the
colourful idiosyncratic prints at Frau
Blau (fraublau.com) or the clean retro
creations at Delicatessen (4 Barzilay
Street). Check out the fashionistas in
The idea behind
Frau Blau’s
clothing is
quality with a
humorous twist
innovative couture mingling with artists
in paint-splattered jeans at cafés such
as LovEAT (1 Barzilai Street) or Aba Gil’s
Organic Hummus (55 Yehuda Halevi).
Any day in Gan Hahashmal should end
in Levontin 7 (levontin7.com), a basement
nightclub with an astonishingly eclectic
programme that ranges from accordion
festivals all the way to acclaimed
grunge rockers The Melvins. Daniel
Sarid, the club’s artistic director, was
an early pioneer who saw, he says, the
neighbourhood’s “enormous potential to
become Tel Aviv’s next hotspot”.
Like most down-at-heel
neighbourhoods transformed by
creatives, Gan Hahashmal will one
day face the familiar question of
gentrifi cation: can it retain its arty edge
as property values soar? “The scene is
thriving,” Daniel Sarid says, “but I hope
the area can keep its alternative vibe.” No
one can know the future, but for now at
least, Gan Hahashmal is at the creative
vanguard of a city magnifi cently coming
into its own.
Art Weekend Tel Aviv is taking place on
21-24 March. tel-aviv.gov.il
THE BUZZ | TEL AVIV ART
UP AND
COMING
Visit these secret arty
districts before everyone
else discovers them
LE PANIER
MARSEILLE
Long left
dilapidated,
Marseille’s
oldest and most
atmospheric quarter is morphing
into a fashionable bohemian
neighbourhood, where traditional
taverns sit alongside innovative art
spaces, such as Vidéochroniques
(videochroniques.org).
PODGÓRZE
KRAKOW
Across the river
from central
Krakow, the
once desolate
Podgórze has been rejuvenated by
the young and fashionable, seen
hanging out at the Mostowy Art Café
(8 Ulica Mostowa) or the Drukarnia
jazz bar (1 Nadwislanska), a hip
drinking hole and music venue.
TRIBALL
MADRID
Regeneration
has turned this
rundown barrio
into a haven
for the city’s edgiest artists and
fashion designers. In a typical story,
La Maison de la Lanterne Rouge
(lamaison.es) is a former brothel
turned funky clothes shop, theatre
space, gallery and bar.
TRAVELLER | 21

THE BUZZ | BIG QUESTION
“Where can
I do volunteer
work?”
WHO DOESN’T love ove the
warm, fuzzy feeling you get
from helping others? Rachel
Morgan-Trimmer, founder of
thecareerbreaksite.com, suggests three
short-haul holidays with an altruistic bent.
FOR GARDENERS
ZÜRICH
Project This International Voluntary
Service trip gives volunteers the chance
to enjoy the great outdoors in the
foothills of the Alps, while learning about
forestry and biodiversity.
Work Spend your days in the picturesque
canton of Neckertal, taking in lungfuls of
delicious Alpine air while clearing areas
of forested terrain so that 800 species of
local plants can fl ourish.
Spare time Immerse yourself in the
rural vibe with a little hill walking, or take
advantage of the blissful peace and quiet
with a good book.
From €180, see ivsgb.org. Neckertal is an
hour’s drive from Zürich airport
22 | TRAVELLER
FOR ANIMAL LOVERS
ATHENS
Project Join Global Vision International
for a two-week trip to the sunny shores
of southern Greece, helping to protect
loggerhead turtles in one of their most
important nesting sites.
Work Who wouldn’t enjoy spending
time with these incredible creatures
every morning, surveying and recording
information about them, guarding eggs
and helping hatchlings travel to the sea?
Spare time Afternoons and evenings
can be spent basking by the Bay of
Lakonikos or lapping up the lively vibe of
local harbour towns.
From €1,194, see gvi.co.uk. Mavrovoúni is
2¾ hours from Athens airport
FOR PHILANTHROPISTS
BRUSSELS
Project Volunteers are welcomed
at FEDASIL Centre, in the suburb of
Rixensart, to help and support refugees
through work and play.
Work Helpers take an active role in
the daily life of the centre, organising
activities for both adults and children,
including arts and crafts, sports, music
and games.
Spare time The centre is a 40-minute
train ride from central Brussels, and
within walking distance of Lake Genval,
cinema and shops.
From €215. For more information, see
concordiavolunteers.org.uk. Rixensart is
a 25-minute drive from Brussels airport
PHOTO © GETTY

Votre argent vaut davantage ! Your money is worth more ! Ihr Geld ist mehr Wert !
Découvrez vos privilèges sous… Find out more on… Sie finden Ihre Vorteile unter:
verbier-st-bernard.ch

WORDS CATHERINE COOPER
VIEWING NOTES
That is one massive roller
coaster. It certainly is. The Wodan
is “the most elaborately themed
wooden ’coaster ever constructed”,
according to its designers at Great
Coasters International.
What does that mean? Well,
not only is it more than a kilometre
long and 35-metres tall, it travels
at 100km/h, is interwoven with
two adjacent rides and zooms
underground three times.
Why the funny name? It’s named
after the ancient Germanic god of
death and the wind, Wodan.
Death? I don’t like the sound of
that! Relax, it’s perfectly safe. Or at
least, it will be when it’s fi nished.
What’s the hold up? It’s a long
process: the ‘coaster is completely
made of wood and built by hand.
Tens of thousands of boards and
bolts have to be assembled into a
giant lattice.
THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS
THE MUST SEE
WODAN
COASTER
BASEL
MULHOUSE
FREIBURG
Sounds amazing. Where can I
fi nd it? At Europa-Park, Germany’s
largest theme park. It will be the
park’s 11th ’coaster – not counting
FoodLoop, the one in its fully
automated restaurant, which
delivers food to the table.
That’s if you can eat after all that
whirling around.
Wodan Timburcoaster opens on
31 March at Europa-Park, an hour
north of Basel; europapark.de
TRAVELLER | 25

THE BUZZ | GRAN CANARIA
Pleasure Island
Home to a UNESCO-protected world biosphere, with rugged terrain, top-class diving
and year-round sunshine, little Gran Canaria is attracting a new adventurous crowd
26 | TRAVELLER

WORDS SAM HARRINGTON-LOWE | ILLUSTRATION © MARC ASPINALL
1
4
Skydive
Scuba Dive
Get back to nature – in
Angel sharks, butterfl y rays,
more ways than one – at the bright-red parrotfi sh or
Maspalomas Sand Dunes. These shimmering shoals of silver
famous mounds are a designated roncadores – it’s the huge variety
Special Nature Reserve and of local species that makes Gran
are a popular place for nude Canaria one of the top 100 dive
sunbathing. If you want to be even locations of the world. Scuba
more daring, visit Skydive Gran divers should make a beeline
Canaria, based on the edge of the for the Arinaga Marine Reserve,
dunes, for a 20-minute fl ight and better known as El Cabrón, for the
tandem jump.
rare chance to catch seahorses,
Aeródromo El Berriel, S/N,
poetically named nudibranchs
35107 San Bartolome de
(sea slugs) and even the
Tirajana; tel: +34 928 157 325, occasional turtle. Beginners can
skydivegrancanaria.es
learn here too, with year-round
PADI courses.
2
39 Calle Luis Velasco, Playa de
Arinaga; tel: +34 699 721 584,
Surf School
The island’s year-round sunshine
davyjonesdiving.com
and steady north-easterly winds
make Gran Canaria a hotspot for
5
surfers and kitesurfers alike, who Submarine Excursion
grab their boards and head for Those who want the underwater
La Punta, at the southern end of experience without the eff ort
Playa del Ingles beach, to catch of scuba can go below on a
some gnarly tubes. Beginners can Yellow Submarine sea excursion,
enjoy smaller waves elsewhere a 40-minute trip to visit two
or learn with the BSA-trained shipwrecks on the ocean’s
instructors at the Surf School of bottom. Fully safety-inspected,
Gran Canaria, €45 for one day or air-conditioned tours dive several
€225 for a fi ve-day course. times each day from Puerto de
Centro Comercial Nilo,
Mogán, a beautiful little fi shing
63 CP 35100, San Fernando de village on the west coast often
Maspalomas, tel: +34 639 624 referred to as Little Venice. If it’s
310, surfgranganaria.com
good enough for the Fab Four...
Pier, Puerto de Mogán, tel: +34
3
928 565 108, justgrancanaria.com
Jeep Safari
From lakes to sand dunes,
6
from the dramatic Pico de Wildlife Park
las Nieves (Peak of Snows) to Meet the animals at Palmitos
the picturesque Fataga ravine Park, home to a huge array of
– known as the Valley of a
birds, reptiles, mammals and
Thousand Palms, Gran Canaria aquaria, with botanical gardens,
has a diverse and beautiful
aviaries and a pelican lake. The
landscape, and the only way to must-do here is the up-close-
see it properly is from the seat and-personal Dolphin Encounter,
of a jeep with a tour guide sitting an educational, eco-friendly
next to you. It means you’ll enjoy alternative to swimming with
the bits that poolside layabouts these glorious creatures.
don’t get to see.
Barranco de Los Palmitos
Through Ultramar Tours;
S/N, 35109 Maspalomas, tel:
tel: +34 902 102 521, isandgo.com +34 928 797 070, palmitospark.es
WHAT IS A
BIOSPHERE?
Thanks to its fl ora, Gran
Canaria is home to a
protected nature reserve
It’s said that Gran Canaria is to
botany what the Galapagos Islands
are to zoology – over 100 species
of plant that grow on the island are
uniquely indigenous. The island also
has a number of microclimates, like
the central Tejeda Caldera valley,
off ering extraordinary biodiversity in
plant and bird life, with many species
of reptiles as well, not to mention
dolphins and whales in the waters.
That’s why the island was
designated a UNESCO Biosphere
Reserve in 2005. This status is
awarded by UNESCO to an area
of land that contains biodiversity
together with sustainable use. The
status means that the variety of fl ora
and fauna are under protection and
preserved for observation, making it a
safe haven for ecological abundance:
a “living laboratory”.
Gran Canaria’s total reserve area
covers more than 100,000 hectares
– some 43% of the island’s surface
– including a large marine area along
the south-west coast. Sustainable
practice, in both fi shing and tourism,
is helping to protect the wildlife and
unique ecosystem here, and ensuring
the island’s wildlife survives in an
uncertain world.
For more information on Biosphere
Reserves visit unesco.org
TRAVELLER | 27

THE BUZZ | STREET STYLE
Neighbourhood Watch: Baixa
PORTO The downtown area of this Portuguese seaside city, Baixa is home to bustling
commercial streets and the atmospheric Bolhão market, full of fresh produce and
more. We asked locals to give us their best tips for visitors.
ANA MARTA JONQUEIRA, 21,
ARCHITECTURE STUDENT
Your favourite local restaurant? “DOP is
simply the best restaurant, so that’s
where I would recommend [Palácio das
Artes, 18 Largo de São Domingos;
tel: +351 22 201 4313, ruipaula.com].”
The best neighbourhood bar? “Out of the
handful of bars near Rua Galeria de Paris,
Pitch Club is where I normally go [34-38
Rua de Passos Manuel; tel: +351 22 201
2349, pitch-club.com].”
Can you give us a secret local’s tip?
“Wander along pedestrianised Rua de
Santa Catarina: full of charm and shops.”
28 | TRAVELLER
ANA DUARTE, 22, CHEF
What’s your favourite local restaurant?
“Café Vitória is great for casual eating,
from lunch to an à la carte dinner menu
[156 Rua José Falcão, tel: + 351 220 135
538, cafevitoria.com].”
What’s your coolest shop? “A Vida
Portuguesa sells handcrafted traditional
products, all produced in Portugal
[20 Rua Galeria de Paris, tel: + 351 222
022 105, avidaportuguesa.com].”
Can you give us a secret local’s tip? “Walk
the Cedofeita and Rua Miguel Bombarda.
They have occasional outdoor exhibits
and an alternative feel to them.”
SARA MARTINS, 21, HOTEL
MANAGEMENT STUDENT
Your favourite local restaurant? “Café
Santiago does delicious francesinhas,
a local dish that’s like a sandwich with
broth poured over it [226 Rua Passos
Manuel; tel: +351 22 205 5797].”
Your favourite neighbourhood hang-out?
“Âncora d’Ouro is one of the most iconic,
famous cafés in Porto and it’s also one
of the oldest [45 Praça Parada Leitão;
tel: +351 22 200 3749].”
Can you give us a secret local’s tip?
“The São Nicolau church is absolutely
beautiful [93 Rua Infante Dom Henriqu].”
DISLIKE
LIKE
ON TREND
trendwatching.com scans the globe
for the latest emerging consumer
trends. Here, Henry Mason, head of
the company’s research and analysis,
tells us what to watch this month.
FLAWSOME
While most companies spend time
polishing up their whiter-than-white
images to attract customers, some
savvy businesses are bucking the
norm and opening themselves up
to – even encouraging – a bit of
constructive criticism.
It seems that some brands are
now willing to appear empathetic,
generous and even humble as they
own up to mistakes in the hope that
customers will be enamoured by their
maturity and “fl awsome-ness”.
The Four Seasons hotel chain has
made the brave move of adding a
Trip Advisor stream to its website, so
web-traffi c and potential guests will
be provided with warts-and-all reviews
(fourseasons.com).
Meanwhile, Polish Bank Zachodni
WBK has introduced an online
“bank of ideas” that encourages
customers to publish opinions on
how its services could be improved.
Suggestions can be seconded or
rejected by other account holders. So
far, 300 changes have been made on
the basis of fi ndings from this crowdsourced
feedback (bzwbk.pl).
So, next time you’re penning a
complaint letter, don’t hold back.
Your points of improvement might be
used in an advertising campaign to
celebrate some “fl awsome” behaviour.
If you’re lucky they might actually
aff ect company policy.
To subscribe to the free monthly Trend
Briefi ng, available in English, Dutch,
German, French, Spanish, Turkish and
Portuguese, go to trendwatching.com
STYLE ALEXANDRA CALADO | PTFASHIONWORLD.BLOGSPOT.COM

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WORDS SARAH WARWICK
Get thee to the Greek
LONDON
What do you do when you’re at the top
of your culinary game, winning critical
praise galore and two top accolades in a
single year? In the world of Athinagoras
Kostakos, that means it’s time to leave
the country.
The 27-year-old chef became a
household name in his native Greece last
year after his appearance on the reality
TV show Top Chef, taking the eponymous
title with his modern take on traditional
Greek cooking. Alongside his staff at
hot Mykonos’ eaterie Bill & Coo, he then
also picked up Condé Nast Traveller
magazine’s 2011 award for Best Hotel
Restaurant in the country.
As he gets ready to embark on a series
of international pop-up residencies in the
UK and Switzerland, Kostakos refl ects
that, although the TV title has made him
famous, the Conde Nast title is the one
that means more. “In many ways the
fame is tough as people want to talk to
me; they want me to prove what they’ve
seen on TV in my kitchen. Condé Nast
was a big moment for me and my team
in the restaurant though. They’ve worked
so hard for this. They really deserve it.”
He’s not kidding. Unlike in other hotel
30 | TRAVELLER
restaurants, where cooking generally
begins at the chopping board, chefs
under Kostakos’ tutelage are expected
not just to chop, sauté and julienne, but
to dig, hoe and weed.
“At Bill & Coo we try to spend less
time in the kitchen and more outside,”
Kostakos says. “We grow 60% of our
own vegetables and fi nd others wild,
using local plants and seaweed. The
kitchen staff spends a lot of time tending
the vegetables and searching for herbs.
These taste diff erent depending on
where they’re found. The wild style is
really tasty.”
Foodies who wish to sample some
of this wild, stylish food, should make
the pilgrimage to the Capital Hotel in
London where, from 5-12 March only,
Kostakos will be whipping up a menu of
Mykonian delicacies, like herb-marinaded
lamb, spanakorizo (rice with onion and
spinach) or baked cherry tomatoes with
honey. Or why not follow his recipe for
the latter, reproduced right, and soon
you’ll be able to cook as well as he can.
Well, we can dream.
The Capital, 22-24 Basil Street, London
SW3; tel: +44 (0)20 7591 1200,
capitalhotel.co.uk
Award-winning
Greek chef
Athinagoras
Kostakos will
be popping up
in Britain this March
Make your own...
BAKED CHERRY
TOMATOES
WITH HONEY
Try this recipe from
Athinagoras Kostakos’s
own kitchen
INGREDIENTS
10 cherry tomatoes
2tsp honey
150g fresh goat’s cheese
4-5tsp extra virgin olive oil
1 bunch fresh thyme
40g king capers
Peel cherry tomatoes and caramelise
with honey in a frying pan. Make balls
of goat’s cheese the same size as the
tomatoes and gently warm. Mix olive oil
with fresh thyme to make aromatic oil;
drizzle over tomatoes and cheese.
Deep-fry capers and use to garnish.
TIPS FOR TOP GREEK FOOD
1 Keep your dishes really simple. You just
need three or four ingredients.
2 Season well. Greek chefs have access
to salt from the best seas of the world.
3 Use the best ingredients you can and
deal gently with them.
4 Cooking is not enough; for great food
you have to have passion.

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Sensational.
Europa-Park by plane!
Book your flight to the EuroAirport in Basel with
easyJet. From there you can conveniently reach
Europa-Park by a special bus shuttle (information
and booking on www.europapark.com/flight).
The perfect place for a fun-fi lled mini-break!
Plunge into a fantastic world of adventure and enjoy all the fun of Europa-Park. Look forward to:
The gigantic wooden Coaster
„WODAN – Timburcoaster“ – New in 2012
The 4-star superior hotel “Bell Rock” –
New from July 2012
11 thrilling roller coasters such as “blue fire
Megacoaster powered by GAZPROM”, “Silver Star”
and “Euro-Mir”
New: Hotel “Bell Rock” opens July 2012 New for 2012: “WODAN – Timburcoaster”
Splashing fun
Infos & Tickets: +49 (0) 18 05/7 88 99 7* · Motorway A5 Karlsruhe - Basel · Exit 57b Europa-Park
Open daily from 31.03. until 04.11.2012 from 9 am to 6 pm and from 24.11.2012 until 06.01.2013 (except 24./25.12.2012)
*14 cent/min. for calls from the German landline network, prices for mobile and international calls may differ
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WORDS CHRIS BEANLAND, JO CAIRD, LUCY FINNEGAN
Five things you never knew about...
Gustav Klimt
VIENNA One of the 20th century’s
best-loved artists, Gustav Klimt’s 150th
birthday is celebrated at museums over
his home city this month. But the artist
was a controversial fi gure in his day:
1 Born in 1862, Klimt lived with his
mother for all but the last three years of
his life before dying in 1918.
2 The artist never married, but reputedly
fathered at least 14 illegitimate children
with his models and patrons.
3 He had a lifelong relationship with
fashion designer Emilie Flöge, his
younger brother’s sister-in-law, although
The spy
station on
Teufelsberg hill
is now open for
guided tours
Klimt’s The Kiss
(1907-8) is widely
regarded as a
masterpiece of the
early modern period
there is no evidence they were lovers.
4 Klimt hated appearing in public, even in
his art. His only self-portrait can be found
in The Death of Romeo and Juliet,
a mural in Vienna’s old Burgtheater.
5 In 1903, Klimt completed a trio of
paintings called Philosophy, Medicine and
Jurisprudence, which caused a scandal
(critics claimed they were pornographic).
Sadly, we can’t judge this for ourselves:
the paintings were never publicly
displayed and were ultimately destroyed
by the Nazis in 1945.
For more on Klimt shows, see wien.info
Life of Spies
BERLIN Created from rubble after World
War II, Berlin’s highest hill, Teufelsberg,
was home to an American spy station
during the Cold War. Long since
abandoned to the wind that whistles
through its derelict buildings, the manmade
mound – the name of which
means Devil’s Mountain – had become a
target for trespassers who came here for
the thrill of history and sensational views.
Now visitors have a legitimate
opportunity to explore the oncesecret
spy station, after the launch
THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS
What’s going on?
EASTER
24 MARCH - 15 APRIL
Velikonoce Markets
PRAGUE
The Easter markets in the Czech
capital sell traditional trinkets and
wooden toys. Pick up hand-painted
kraslice (eggs), tuck into local
delicacies, enjoy the music and
expect to see children brandishing
decorative twigs –it’s a longstanding
tradition. pragueexperience.com
5 APRIL
Za Krizem
SPLIT
The religious processions on
Hvar Island are the highlight of
Croatian Easter festivities. Meaning
“behind the cross”, the 500-year-old,
UNESCO-protected tradition is led
by cross-bearers who walk 22km
barefoot on the day as a mark of their
faith. total-hvar.com
1-7 APRIL
Semana Santa
ASTURIAS
Holy week is one of the most
colourful times of the year in Spain
and Portugal, and the medieval city of
Avilés makes an ideal spot to witness
the daily processions and thrilling
end-of-week celebrations.
avilescomarca.info
of offi cial weekly tours. Every Sunday
in 2012, groups will be shown around
the facility and into the dark corners
where American agents listened in to
Communist Party communications
(berlinsightout.de).
Meanwhile, on the other side of
the city, the recently reopened Stasi
Museum tells the other side of the Cold
War story. Behind the façade of old
secret-police buildings, its new galleries
reveal the real story of East Berlin.
stasimuseum.de
TRAVELLER | 33

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WORDS MELISSA ROSSI, CHRIS BEANLAND | PHOTO © RUDY RICCIOTTI ARCHITERCTURE
The Jean Cocteau
Museum in
Menton on the
Côte d’Azur
4
OF THE
BEST
On the Culture Coast
NICE As France’s most unusual-looking
museum opens in Menton, 30 minutes
from Nice airport, we recommend four
mind-expanding odysseys in the Côte
d’Azur’s town of culture.
JEAN COCTEAU MUSEUM
This stunning new gallery, above,
celebrates the legacy of Menton’s
most famous son: poet, playwright and
designer, Jean Cocteau.
RESTORATION
Until May, this exhibition at the town’s
Beaux-Arts and Préhistoire Régionale
museums explores how art and
objects can be restored and renewed.
CONTEMPORARY ART GALLERY
Menton is truly an art-lover’s paradise.
The Galerie d’art Contemporain boasts
modern masterworks by such infl uential
artists as Velichovic, Combas and
Trémois in a fi n de siècle palace.
JUST FOR LAUGHS
Don’t be an April fool. Visit historic
Théâtre Menton on 31 March or 1 April
and enjoy mime, jokes and more in a
hysterical comic review. Tickets €14.
tourisme-menton.fr
Bed Clothed
AMSTERDAM Is this the best-dressed
hotel in the world? Described by Elle
as “a fashion sketchbook come to life”,
Amsterdam’s Hotel The Exchange has
had its 61 rooms “dressed” by graduates
of the Amsterdam Fashion Institute. In
keeping with the theme, sewing machines
are available for guests who want to have
a go themselves. It looks – ahem – sew
much fun. exchangeamsterdam.com
THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS
Making
Scents
Absolument
Absinthe can be
worn by men
and women
MARSEILLE
“If I lived in the Middle
Ages, they would
burn me at the stake,”
says Pascal Rolland,
a purveyor of spirits who fancies
himself as a bit of an alchemist.
Best known in his Provençal town of
Venelles, about a half-hour drive north
of Marseille, for alcoholic tinctures,
Rolland’s latest pushing-the-envelope
concoction is an absinthe perfume,
Absolument Absinthe, distilled from
wormwood and cannabis.
Like the alchemists of yore, who
concocted potions and tried to turn
lead into gold, Rolland’s activities
sometimes tiptoe to the edge
of legality. In 1999, when he found a
loophole in French law that prohibited
making the absinthe adored by
19th-century artists, he and chemist
Marc Villacèque began distilling
“the green fairy” to their own recipe,
marketing it as Versinthe, a green
liquid that clouds when water is added.
Soon after, he opened Liquoristerie
de Provence (liquoristerie-provence.
fr), a Belle Époque-style parlour
where visitors cloud drinks and sense
by mixing water with liqueurs made
from thyme, verbena or fi gs. Now
they can spritz themselves with the
scent of decadence as well.
TRAVELLER | 35

THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS
Send photos for free fl ights!
Email us your best photograph that captures a special moment and win...
OUR SECOND PHOTO competition was
even more popular than the fi rst, and
we love seeing all the snaps from your
holidays. The closing date for entries
was 31 January and we’re pleased to
announce that the winner is Lucinda
Deacon-Davis, who wins two return
fl ights to the destination of her choice.
To enter our March competition,
simply send a photo that captures a
special moment from your time in an
*By entering you confi rm you accept the Ts&Cs and have permission from all people featured in your photos including parent/guardian consent for children under 18 years. Entries must be your own original work, must
not violate the rights of any other person or organisation and must not contain any content that is illegal or deemed off ensive. For full terms and conditions of entry and the Privacy Policy, see traveller.easyJet.com/T&Cs
36 | TRAVELLER
easyJet destination. Your shot should be
vibrant, full of life and unposed, showing
people enjoying themselves and getting
caught up in the emotion of the moment.
Email the photo, with the subject line:
“photo competition: your surname”, to:
competition.easyJet@ink-global.com
by midnight on 31st March. Please
include your address, phone number
and the location of the shot. The winner
will be announced in our May issue.*
WINNER!
THIS
MONTH’S
WINNER
Lucinda Deacon-
Davis, 54, and her
husband Chris, from
Gloucestershire,
won our January
competition with their
picture of a relaxing
Dead Sea afternoon...
“Chris took this photo – those
are his legs –and I’m in the
background holding The
Jordan Times. We took the trip
to Amman for my birthday,
with the main aim of visiting
Petra and the Dead Sea, and
took the photo for a friend who
had created a “hoofi ng” page
on Facebook, where people
post photos of their feet in
unusual places. We are excited
about winning the competition
as we can now plan to visit
somewhere we haven’t been.”
Photographs should:
■ have been taken in an easyJet
destination in 2012
■ feature one or more people
■ be your own work
■ be in full colour, clear and in focus
■ be taken without use of professional
photographic equipment
■ be sent by email as full-size JPGs (as
downloaded from digital cameras, not
copied from social networks)

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Thursday April 5th
Friday April 6th
Saturday April 7th
Sunday April 8th
Tickets at
Events coming soon
18:00 to 22:00
11:00 to 18:00
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12:00 to 20:00
12:00 to 19:00
www.fnac.com
5 - 8 April
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Nice: + 33 (0)4 8306 6230 / New York: +1 (347) 332 6907 / Montreal: +1 (514) 907 9321 / Mexico: +52 (555) 351 2744 / info@artemonaco.com / www.artemonaco.com
&
(Private Opening)
Open to Public
Private Reception

WORDS CHRIS BEANLAND
BOOK AHEAD
Planning a trip over the
next few months? Make a
note in your diary and get
to one of these events
AUGUST
LONDON STANSTED
Discos in barns, theatrical props
and the only swimming pool at a
British festival all mean Standon
Calling is no workaday shindig.
Held in the grounds of a stately
home on 3-5 August, what started
out as a birthday party for 25
people has morphed into one of
the most singular sessions of the
JUNE
Standon Calling
Luther’s
Wedding
DRESDEN
June is peak wedding season
all over Europe, but there’s no
ceremony quite like this one.
Commemorating the medieval
nuptials of Protestantism
founder, Martin Luther, and his
bride, Katharina von Bora, in
1525, this annual knees-up is
accompanied by much mead, ale
and merrymaking. On 8-10 June,
more than 100,000 people will
descend on the medieval town of
Wittenberg, near Dresden, where
the highlight of the three-day
festival is a mock marriage on the
Saturday between two locals.
www.lutherstadt-wittenberg.de
summer. Friendly Fires, Mumford
and Sons, and Florence and the
Machine are previous headliners,
but this party is as much about
fun and fancy dress as the acts.
Plus, it’s run on a not-for-profi t
basis, with all the proceeds
going to charity. Need any more
reasons to love this boutique
bash? standon-calling.com
THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS
JULY
Les Tonnerres
de Brest
BREST
Shiver Me Timbers is the theme
of this July’s maritime festival –
highly apt, because the tall-masted
ships that will pile into Brest harbour
for 13-19 July look like they’ve
sailed straight out of Pirates of the
Caribbean. A huge deal in Brittany,
the week-long event will see more
than 2,000 vessels from 25
countries engage in parades,
displays and fl otillas. On dry land,
crêpe stalls, live music and Cossack
dancing complete the picture, while
a massive fi rework display on Bastille
Day is another highlight.
lestonnerresdebrest2012.fr
TRAVELLER | 39

THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS
HOTEL REVIEWS | NEWS & OFFERS
sleep easy
Telegraaf
TALLINN
Set within the walls of Tallinn’s pretty
Old City, the Hotel Telegraaf was
once home to a telegraph company.
Now its 86 rooms are fi lled with plush
furnishings, fi ve-star luxuries and huge
beds. The setting is charming, both
inside and out: the rooms have their
original fl oorboards and shutters; the
latter open onto views over quaint,
cobbled streets. A recent renovation has
40 | TRAVELLER
The Dylan Thomas suite,
with interior design by
Anouska Hemple,
provides garden views
added more rooms to the hotel, along
with an Elemis Spa and Restaurant
Tchaikovsky, which offers Russian
cuisine in the darkly opulent cavern of
the grand dining hall.
In summer, diners can sit on the
garden terrace. Dishes such as roasted
deer fi llet with rowan berry and
beetroot sauce have earned the venue
the title of Estonia’s second-best
fi ne-dining destination; while the hotel
has been named Estonia’s number one.
From €149, book at hotels.easyJet.com
The Dylan
AMSTERDAM
While you might not guess it
from the über-modern in-room
facilities, The Dylan has a long and
colourful history. Dating back to the
1600s, this 40-room boutique hotel
was one of the fi rst buildings on the
Keizersgracht canal and it’s had a busy
existence since, housing fi rst a theatre
and then a Roman Catholic poorhouse,
before taking up its current role.
Much of the joy of a stay here stems
from the tasteful modernisation, which
has preserved many of the original
features. Heavy wooden beams, rickety
staircases and building inscriptions in
old Dutch take guests back to an older,
simpler world, providing an interesting
counterpoint to the modern, eyepleasing
features of British designer
Anouska Hempel’s interiors. Each of its
rooms are individually styled and cosy.
Located near the trendy De
Negen Straatjes (The Nine Streets)
shopping district, and with views over
the canals, The Dylan’s warm, skilful
service and Michelin-starred restaurant
mean that this historic hub is a brilliant
base from which to explore the city.
Indeed, it’s a destination in its own right.
From €325, book at hotels.easyJet.com

WORDS AMY DENNIS, ROBIN MCKELVIE
N.
3
OF THE
BEST
MÖVENPICK HOTEL
& CASINO
GENEVA
While the clichéd airport hotel is bland in
design and only visited out of desperation,
this fi ve-star bolthole, just fi ve minutes from
the airport, is more luxury than last-resort.
With an in-house casino, two restaurants,
café, bar and gym – who needs more?
From €152, book at hotels.easyJet.com
LATEST NEWS
MAJORCA
Opened again in February after a
tasteful refurbishment, the Illetas
Albatros hotel is a major jewel in the
crown of luxury-hotel chain Barceló.
Every facility here – the restaurant,
119 rooms, spa and fi tness centre –
takes advantage of the panoramic
views over the Bay of Palma. Guests
can bathe in private coves along the
coastline or dip into one of the hotel’s
many outdoor pools before heading
in to the suites, where wall-to-wall
white decor and terraces feel like pure
extravagance. From €106, book at
hotels.easyJet.com
AIRPORT HOTELS
BIRMINGHAM
Looking for a smart stay in the
Midlands? Opening this month,
La Tour is the latest businesslike bolthole
in the city’s regenerated Eastside
district. Housed in a relative high-rise,
the building offers great views out
over the city, while the glass-fronted
façade allows light to fl ood the interior,
brightening the rooms, Aalto restaurant
and, probably, the guests’ experiences
DUNADRY HOTEL
& COUNTRY CLUB
BELFAST
Charming, tasteful and authentic, the 83
rooms of Dunadry’s converted mill might be
just fi ve minutes from the airport but they’re
a million miles from the usual terminal stay.
The country club’s cosy Copper Bar is the
perfect spot for a cold pint of Guinness.
From €66, book at hotels.easyJet.com
of this often-misunderstood city. Close
to the shopping and business hubs,
this four-star hotel has conferencing
facilities as well as snazzy cocktail bar,
making it a sure bet for success with
travellers looking to play as well as work.
From €120, book at hotels.easyJet.com
ISTANBUL
Part of the ever-expanding Barceló
family, the Saray hotel in central
THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS
EL PLANTÍO GOLF RESORT
ALICANTE
Just 3km from the airport and 10 minutes
from the city, this golfi ng resort has four-star
apartments with two or three bedrooms,
many with terraces overlooking the outdoor
pool. Pack clubs and you can squeeze in
a few rounds at the hotel’s 72-par, 18-hole
course before jetting off .
From €60, book at hotels.easyJet.com
Enjoy the view
from every room at
the Illetas Albatros
in Majorca
Istanbul is a reliably cool destination for
the urban traveller. Located in the old
Beyazit district, this four-star stay, with
96 smartly designed rooms and brandnew
spa, is just 200m from the entrance
to the Grand Bazaar. After a hard day’s
haggling, guests can take in splendid
panoramic views of the Blue Mosque
and other domed delights while they
enjoy dinner on the rooftop restaurant.
From €68, book at barcelosaray.com
TRAVELLER | 41

THE BUZZ | TASTE BUDS
Boco
PARIS
Who said top-level gastronomy was
expensive or healthy cuisine boring?
Certainly not the Ferniot brothers –
Simon and Vincent – who are behind
Parisian hotspot Boco. They’ve recruited
fi ve of the city’s best up-and-coming
chefs to help them devise a menu that
offers a fi ne-dining experience at fastfood
prices. Yet that’s not even the most
interesting part of a trip here.
The restaurant’s name comes from
the French word bocaux, meaning
“jars”, and that’s because the dishes are
all served up in little glass pots. The
simple ingredients are locally sourced
and organic (naturally) but this is not
just another faddy canteen: in fact,
everything is eco-friendly, from the
cutlery to the cleaning products.
It’s a recipe that’s certainly working.
At lunchtime, the well-priced cuisine,
convenient service and laid-back vibe
Vinkeles
AMSTERDAM
Vinkeles is one of just fi ve restaurants in
the Dutch capital to hold a Michelin
star and it’s all thanks to chef Dennis
Kuipers. He may be a home-grown
talent but as an alumnus of Paris’s Alain
Senderens, it’s not a surprise that his
culinary style has its roots fi rmly in
classic French cuisine. The dining room
features 18th-century baking ovens – an
atmospheric nod to its hotel home’s past
as an almshouse – but the cuisine is
dazzlingly opulent. Kuipers balances
traditional French technique with
quality ingredients, and exciting, fresh
fl avour combinations like soft, rare veal
knuckle with sweet roasted langoustines
and curry mayonnaise; or exquisitely
tender Anjou pigeon served with its
crispy confi t leg, tangy kidney and a rich
jus with a hint of fi ve spice.
Unafraid to use luxury ingredients,
the Dutchman puts a modern spin on
42 | TRAVELLER
attract plenty of Parisians – curious
gourmets and workers on breaks sit
shoulder to shoulder. And why not? The
tapas-sized starters, like mellow egg,
melting lentils and soft petals of onion;
main courses such as sweet, spiced sea
bass tandoori with black-rice risotto;
and salted butter crème caramel for
classic combinations like caviar and
pomme purée in his pommes tsarine
dish – a generous mound of oscietra
caviar with crème fraîche sorbet, topped
with light potato espuma (foam).
Service is excellent and the sommelier
is keen to showcase fabulous, unusual
wines from lesser-known regions.
dessert, all display innovation, fl air and
more fl avour than you could ever expect
from a tiny jar.
Three courses cost about €18. Boco
is open 9am-8.30pm, Monday to
Saturday. 3 Rue Danielle Casanova;
tel +33 (0)1 4261 1767, bocobio.com
Normandie Hoche
It’s also possible to enjoy the Vinkeles
gastronomic experience on board The
Muze, a renovated 19th-century river
cruiser, as it plies Amsterdam’s canals.
Three courses cost from about €90.
The Dylan Hotel, 384 Keizersgracht;
tel: +31 (0)20 530 2010, vinkeles.com
Rosie Birkett

The Grasshopper
Amsterdam
WWW.THEGRASSHOPPER.NL
Oudebrugsteeg 16
1012 JP, Amsterdam
Tel. +31 204232424
Th e Grasshopper is a stately monumental building in
the heart of the historic centre of Amsterdam off ering a
unique place to go for lunch / dinner or to host a party.
Th e Discobar on the ground fl oor and the Sportsbar on
the fi rst fl oor off er informal dining where you can either
dance or watch some sport respectively. A smoking
room is also available.
On the second fl oor you can fi nd our Steakhouse Evita
where you can have a hearty lunch or a delicious dinner
from our Argentine / Spanish infl uenced kitchen with
a splendid view over the city.
Weather permitting you can also enjoy our terrace and
sit on the waterside to enjoy your lunch or dinner.

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DIRECTORY | REYKJAVIK
Aurora · Gourmet · Luxury · Romance
A four-star luxury resort
in South Iceland.
The perfect place to witness
the Northern Lights and
Iceland’s natural wonders.
www.hotelranga.is

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O

PHOTO © NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC
LAND OF
48 | TRAVELLER

ICE
ICE
AND FIRE
WITH FROZEN FJORDS AND VOLCANIC ROCKS, IT LOOKS LIKE THE SURFACE OF
ANOTHER PLANET. AS OUR NEW ROUTE TO REYKJAVIK OPENS THIS MONTH,
CONSIDER THIS YOUR INVITATION TO THE ADVENTURE OF A LIFETIME
SIMON KURS
NEW
ROUTE
TRAVELLER | 49

FEATURES | REYKJAVIK
IT MIGHT JUST have been the best publicity stunt
ever. Last October, a video clip, purporting to come
straight from the offi ce of the President of Iceland,
began to do the rounds online.
Opening with a close-up shot of a neatly ordered
desk, behind which sat a white-haired man in a
well-pressed suit and yellow tie, the 40-second address
began. “My name is Olafur Ragnar Grimsson,” the
man said, “and I live here in the presidential residence
with my wife, Dorrit. We would like you to visit our
home, and we will give you delicious pancakes with
cream and sugar – a traditional Icelandic delicacy.
Because Dorrit favours very much health and good
nutrition, you will also get extraordinary products
from our greenhouses. Then we’ll show you the
landscape, the bird life and the extraordinary light you
can witness in Iceland at this time of year.”
The setting looked offi cial enough, but surely this
had to be a spoof? After all, could you imagine David
Cameron or Angela Merkel doing something similar?
The idea of an established head of state openly
encouraging a group of strangers to come round for a
party is, frankly, preposterous.
Bizarrely, though, the invitation was real: on 11
November, 20 lucky guests got to sample Dorrit’s
pancakes. And the reason for this stunt? It signalled
the start of a tourism drive that has seen Icelanders
head online in their droves to offer equally hospitable
propositions, posting hundreds of video clips on
invitations.inspiredbyiceland.com, inviting people to
enjoy a foot soak in a geothermal bath, take a bicycle
ride in the frozen countryside, even sample local sushi.
This says a lot about the Icelandic psyche. A tiny
nation with few more than 300,000 inhabitants, most
of whom live in a small corner of this other-worldly
rock, its blackened lava fi elds and deep blue fjords,
crashing waterfalls and basalt cliffs feel more like the
setting for a Tolkienesque fantasy fi lled with elves
and trolls than anywhere on planet earth. When you
also take into account the fact that it’s located on the
64th parallel, as far north as it’s possible for humans
to live comfortably, it’s no surprise the natives know
something about the value of hospitality.
That’s the reason I fi nd myself in the back of a super
Jeep (basically a Humvee-style ride with oversized
wheels, pimped to the max), gunning across the snowy
landscape some 40km east of Reykjavik. I’m here at
the kind behest of a chap called Ragnar, who’d got in
contact a week previously. It’s -14°C outside and the
wind is whipping snow across the windshield. I can’t
see any road beneath us, let alone any road signs but,
remarkably, I actually feel rather safe – and not just
50 | TRAVELLER
Previous page,
Lake Kleifarvatn
in south-west
Iceland, an area
of hot springs
and weekly
earthquakes.
This page,
clockwise from
right, the Strokkur
geysir; President
Grimsson’s online
address; a Jeep
tour is a great way
to see the island;
the northern
lights over
Reykjavik
PHOTO © NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC

ecause our ride is so toasty inside.
Ragnar runs a tour company in Iceland called
SuperJeep.is that specialises in off-road adventures.
“No one offers as good-quality tours as we do,” was
his boast, so I decided to put him to the test. Right
now we’re on an extreme road trip, on what’s known
as the Golden Circle. It’s a route that loops some
300km around Reykjavik into central Iceland and
back, taking in some of the country’s most exhilarating
landmarks. And one thing’s for certain: it’s not a trip
your average Sunday driver could manage.
Ragnar isn’t behind the wheel, however. That’s left
to one of his able lieutenants, Ingi, whose sanguine
manner is all the more impressive given the zero
visibility. On our day trip, we take in a number of
sights and these were, without a hint of the usual travel
hyperbole, actually breathtaking. Gullfoss, meaning
“golden falls” is a cascading two-tiered waterfall that
churns the river below it with awesome vigour, despite
the fact it’s many degrees below freezing. Standing on
FEATURES | REYKJAVIK
a ledge overlooking the scene, with the wind swirling
and water crashing, is a truly humbling sight.
Then there’s Laugarfjall hill: a steaming, sulphurous
expanse of mud and rock, where hot springs bubble to
the surface at temperatures capable of boiling eggs. It’s
home to a number of geysers, including Geysir (which
is where the English word for this type of natural
fountain comes from), that can spit water some 70m
into the air, and another, Strokkur, which erupts every
fi ve minutes or so in almost as impressive a fashion.
Further into the tour, we’re even given the chance
to go snowmobiling, on an ascent to the Langjökull
glacier. More than 10% of Iceland is made up of snow
caps, which remain frosty even in the summer months,
but in mid-winter, they’re positively freezing. It’s yet
another exhilarating thrill, following fi ve other mobiles
up near-vertical slopes in an hour-long trip.
“We always have adventures on the way,” says Ingi of
these tours. “If not, we fi nd something else to do.”
It all adds up to an unmissable experience. The
TRAVELLER | 51

FEATURES | REYKJAVIK
The coast near the
northern Icelandic
town of Hjalteyri,
where you really are
on the edge of the
civilised world

PHOTO © GISIL DÚA/NORDIC PHOTOS
Above, the Blue Lagoon,
with average temperatures
of 37-39°C; right, the
Icelandic horse is very
hardy and has a double
coat for extra insulation
“We are Vikings and that’s why the Icelandic
people are truly adventurous”
holiday brochures call it a “land of fi re and ice”, but
even this spiel doesn’t really prepare you for the reality
of life in this place of extremes. For instance, on the
one hand, it’s remarkably forward thinking – all
electricity produced on the island comes from either
hydropower or geothermal plants that tap into the
same underground activity that cause geysers and
volcanoes to erupt regularly. The locals also make
use of these fi elds in another, even more civilised way,
heading to naturally heated lakes that exist across
the country’s expanse to bathe and unwind. The
best-known of these outdoor pools is the Blue Lagoon
(www.bluelagoon.com), on the outskirts of Reykjavik,
whose waters can reach temperatures of upto 39°C.
Yet this is also a nation steeped in tradition. Indeed,
outside of Reykjavik, the island is much the same
as it was when the fi rst settlers arrived more than a
millennium ago. As Ragnar later tells me, “The rugged
landscape reminds us every day that we are Vikings
and that’s why Icelandic people are truly adventurous.”
That’s probably the reason why Icelanders take such
pride in their seafaring forebears – celebrating the
derring-do of their forbears as well as their somewhat
adventurous diets. In the winter months, Icelanders
pay homage to their heritage by eating traditional
Viking foods such as dried fi sh; a fermented, rotted
shark dish called hákarl (see Reykjavik Basics on p60
for more about this) and sheep’s head.
“You could say that Icelandic food is old-fashioned
in many ways,” says Jon Tryggvi Jonsson, owner of
Lækjarbrekka (laekjarbrekka.is), one of Reykjavik’s
oldest (and certainly cosiest) restaurants. “Food has
always been important to Icelandic culture because
it brings people together – and that’s important in a
place that has, traditionally, been so isolated.”
Food is certainly part of that overriding ethos
of hospitality that informs much of the Icelandic
way of life. Conclusive proof of this can be seen at
Lækjarbrekka, where groups of families and friends
sprawl across tables, tucking into smoked puffi n,
Icelandic lamb (which Jonsson claims is the best in the
world), reindeer meatballs or one of the many varieties
of pickled herring, the conversation fl owing as freely as
the Brennivin (a fi ery local brandy).
Lying just south of the Arctic Circle, the island may
be bathed in snow and zero-hugging temperatures
from November to the beginning of April, but the
summer climate is a comfortable 12-14°C, thanks
to the warming effects of the Gulf Stream. That’s
probably the reason why more than 90% of Iceland’s
tourists visit during the warmer months – when the
sun shines well into the night, and people take to the
countryside to play midnight golf or go horse trekking
on Iceland’s beautiful indigenous steeds.
If you go right now, however, there are other, equally
visceral thrills. This year in particular, the northern
lights (or aurora borealis, to give the proper name) are
going to be at their brightest for 50 years, providing
a mind-blowing, bright-green light show that dances
across the skies. You’ll have to be quick though, as
they’re most visible between November and April.
If you do miss out on the lights, don’t worry – there
are plenty of other opportunities for beauty, wonder
and adventure. “It’s very important to try everything,”
says Ragnar, as he issues a fi nal invitation. “See
geysers, waterfalls and volcanoes, try our local food –
and remember, the elves are there during the day, the
trolls are there in the night. You just need to believe.”
easyJet fl ies to...
Reykjavik from London. See our insider guide on
page 170. Book online at easyJet.com
TRAVELLER | 53

FEATURES | REYKJAVIK
REYKJAVIK BASICS
THE CITY BY NUMBERS HAVE A WORD (OR TWO)
119,108
THE CITY’S POPULATION
€29,600
AVERAGE ANNUAL SALARY
OF AN ICELANDER
753,022
NUMBER OF PASSENGERS
THAT PASS THROUGH
KEFLAVIK AIRPORT
EVERY YEAR
21.09
NUMBER OF HOURS OF
SUNLIGHT ON 21 JUNE, THE
LONGEST DAY OF THE YEAR
100
BEST-GUESS NUMBER OF
BARS AND CLUBS IN
THE CITY (THEY COME
AND GO)
30,000
ESTIMATED NUMBER OF
PUFFINS ON LUNDEY ISLAND
IN REYKJAVIK BAY DURING
THE SUMMER
330BC
Greek explorer Pytheas
sails in search of the
end of the Earth,
heading up from
Marseilles, and fi nds
an island six days north
of Britain.
54 | TRAVELLER
THE ICELANDIC TIMELINE
874
Norwegian Viking
Ingólfur Arnarson
becomes Iceland’s fi rst
documented settler.
He lands in Reykjavik,
attracted by the steam
from the hot springs.
In Iceland, as is the case in all Nordic countries, English is widely spoken,
though a few words of the native tongue could come in useful. Icelandic is
actually similar to medieval Norse – the language of the Vikings...
HELLO
HIHI OR HÁLLO (HAI HAI OR HA-LOH)
GOODBYE
BLESS (BLEHSS)
YES
JÁ (YA)
NO
NEI (NAY)
PLEASE
(NO WORD IN THE LANGUAGE FOR IT)
THANKS
TAKK (TAHK)
WHERE IS…?
HVER ER…? (KVATH ER)
1000
Some time in the 11th
century, Leifur Heppni
sets sail and discovers
a new land to the west
that he calls Vinland.
It’s now thought he
discovered America.
1262
Iceland comes under
Norwegian rule. In the
next hundred years,
as power struggles
aff ect Scandinavia, the
nation becomes part of
Denmark.
1783-4
The island’s volcanic
eruptions bring a drop
in temperature that
causes crop failure,
drought and famine,
killing over six-million
people worldwide.

WORDS LAURA DIXON | PHOTO © ISTOCKPHOTO | MAP ILLUSTRATION © JASON PICKERSGILL/ACUTEGRAPHICS.CO.UK
GETTING
AROUND
Reykjavik may be the most northerly
capital city in the world, but in size
terms it’s more like a town. It’s easy to
walk everywhere, but you may want
a car to explore natural attractions
just outside the city, like the mineralrich
Blue Lagoon, which is just a
45-minute drive away.
THE OLD HARBOUR
Here you’ll fi nd whale-watching trips
(hvalalif.is) guaranteeing a 100%
success rate – or a free trip if not –
plus an excellent fi sh-and-chip café
(fi shandchips.is).
HALLGRÍMSKIRKJA
The city’s strange church is sculpted
in the form of an erupting volcano and
THE OLD HARBOUR
NATIONAL MUSEUM
1944
Iceland becomes an
independent republic
on 17 June, now
celebrated as National
Day, with a parade in
Reykjavik and parties in
the streets.
LAUGAVEGUR
REYKJAVIK
1958
Start of the Cod Wars
with Britain, which last
until the late 1970s.
Iceland ultimately
extends its national
waters to 200 miles
from the island.
has a statue of Viking
explorer Leifur Eiriksson outside it
(sacred-destinations.com).
LAUGARDALUR
A walk or short bus ride from the
centre, this green space has a small
zoo, sculpture museum, botanical
garden and Laugar Spa (laugarspa.is),
the city’s largest spa.
NATIONAL MUSEUM OF
ICELAND
Learn all about this nation in its
interactive museum with exhibits
on Celtic and Viking history, strange
fi sh-eating habits and two pagan
burials in the fl oor (thjodminjasafn.is).
LAUGAVEGUR
By day, the main shopping street
is great for browsing (but mind the
eye-watering prices!); by night, it’s the
place for a casual meal or a bar crawl.
LAUGARDALUR
HALLGRÍMSKIRKJA
1980
Vigdís Finnbogadóttir
is elected as Iceland’s
fi rst female president.
The country embraces
feminism (and bans
strip clubs and lap
dancing in 2010).
N
600m
2008
Iceland’s three largest
banks crash with a
combined debt of six
times the nation’s GDP.
Three years later, the
government collapses
due to public dissent.
FEATURES | REYKJAVIK
LOCAL FOOD
You can get a burger anywhere,
so when you’re in Iceland,
why not take your taste buds
on a trip too? Actually, you
can’t really get a burger here:
McDonald’s left in 2009 after
the country was plunged into
fi nancial crisis and the price of
a Big Mac rose to 650 ISK (€4),
Since then, traditional food has
made a comeback.
This means two things:
delicious lobster, cod, salmon
and lamb from the nearby
sea, rivers and pastures; and
some more unusual stuff , like
boiled sheep’s head, seabirds’
eggs, grilled puffi n and hákarl
(Greenland shark), a foulsmelling,
peculiarly textured
delicacy washed down with
Brennivín, the harsh local spirit.
Originally, hákarl was made
by burying the shark for two
months while it slowly “cured”,
then unearthing it and leaving it
to hang for up to four months.
These days, they store it in
Tupperware rather burying
it, but not much else changes.
It’s still a dish that only the
bravest of locals – or visitors
– give a try.
2010
A small volcano under
the Eyjafj allajökull
glacier erupts in April.
The ensuing ash cloud
disrupts fl ights across
Europe for the next few
months.
TRAVELLER | 55

ROSIE BIRKETT MIKE PINCHES
THESECRETNORTH
THANKS TO A WEALTH OF PASSIONATE PRODUCERS AND REVOLUTIONARY
RESTAURATEURS, THE NORTH OF ENGLAND IS IN THE MIDST OF A CULINARY
EXPLOSION. WE WENT ON A ROAD TRIP TO SAMPLE THINGS FIRST-HAND...
A DARK MACARON of squid ink is placed before
me. It’s followed by an immaculate plate of silky,
almost translucent, raw scallops and toasted seeds,
topped with a snowdrift of smoked scallop powder.
The sommelier fi lls our glasses with buttery white
Burgundy before laying down freshly baked bread
and whipped, creamy, local butter. All the hallmarks
of a Michelin-starred restaurant are here – deft
service, fi ne wines, exciting cooking and a sense of
occasion. The only surprise is, we’re nowhere near any
of Europe’s gastronomic capitals. In fact, I’m enjoying
this fi ne-dining experience in far-fl ung Cumbria.
I’m in L’Enclume (lenclume.co.uk), the restaurant of
Michelin-starred chef Simon Rogan in the medieval
village of Cartmel. While this may be in one of
England’s most remote counties – an hour and a half’s
drive north of Manchester – it hasn’t prevented Rogan
from winning international acclaim for his technically
brilliant, inherently Cumbrian cuisine.
When people talk of the UK’s foodie scene, they’re
often referring to London, but a quiet culinary
renaissance has also been taking place in the northern
counties of Cumbria, Lancashire and North Yorkshire.
Driven by fabulous local produce – from ice cream
to livestock, wonderful cheeses to award-winning
preserves, as well as a grandstanding band of top
Main picture, the dishes
served at L’Enclume in
the Lake District have
helped put northern
England on the foodie
map; left, on the road
to Clitheroe

FEATURES | MANCHESTER
chefs, this area of the British Isles is fi nding its fl avour.
Couple that with the stark beauty of the scenery and it
makes the perfect foodie break. But where to start?
Luckily, I have Annette Gibbons as my guide.
Gibbons is a trained chef who runs Cumbria On A
Plate (cumbriaonaplate.co.uk), providing cookery
courses and bespoke food safaris to the district’s best
artisan grub. She has an encyclopaedic knowledge of
the area and her tours take in everything, from a local
estate where lunch is game from the grounds, to a
watermill where you can try bread making.
Thornby Moor Dairy (thornbymoordairy.co.uk),
run by Carolyn Fairbairn, a self-taught cheese-maker
since 1979, is our fi rst stop. Fairbairn makes her
award-winning cheeses with raw, single-herd ewe,
cow and goat’s milk sourced from Cumbrian farms
and, after a tour, we get to taste the beauties. From the
fresh, moist goat’s cheese Stumpies and hard, tangy
Allerdale, to the creamy Crofton (a 50/50 blend of cow
and goat’s milk) and rich, blue Whinnow and smoked
Cumberland, the variety of fl avours is a revelation.
Nothing complements a cheese board like a nice
dollop of chutney, and you won’t fi nd better than at
Wild and Fruitful (wildandfruitful.co.uk), a preserves
company run from the home of founder Jane Maggs,
in Wigton, Cumbria. She uses local ingredients and
traditional recipes to create award-winning jellies,
jams, curds and pickles. Everything is handmade in
her modest kitchen, using ingredients from friends,
gardeners and growers throughout the region.
The northern foodie renaissance may be a new
phenomenon in many ways, but you could say that it
has one foot fi rmly placed in the past. Cumbria has
58 | TRAVELLER
Left, the Ribble Valley makes a
beautiful destination for a gastro
break; above, award-winning chef
Tom Van Zeller at work in his
eponymous Harrogate restaurant
time-honoured traditions of preserving that stretch
back centuries – and it’s precisely this that producers
such as Maggs are reviving. Then there are others,
including Simon Rogan at L’Enclume, who are delving
even further into the annals of history. Like the
Cumbrian poet William Wordsworth centuries before
him, Rogan lets the landscape feed his imagination,
using historic Cumbrian kitchen techniques, such as
brining, pickling, curing and smoking (a hangover
from when the Vikings settled here) with local produce
and vegetable varieties, foraged food and ingredients
grown at the restaurant’s farm. “We try to be as
natural as possible, and the cooking is rooted in its
surroundings,” says Rogan.
Only a 90-minute drive away, there’s another chef
who is equally passionate about his region. Having
spent the past 20 years championing Lancashire
produce, Nigel Haworth deserves credit for the fact
that it’s fi nally getting the recognition it deserves.
A leading player on Lancashire’s food scene, Haworth’s
Michelin-starred Northcote Manor (northcote.com)
in Langho is one of Britain’s best-loved gourmet
escapes, attracting foodies and guest chefs, including
Heston Blumenthal and Raymond Blanc, to its annual
Obsession Food and Wine Festival. It’s also part of
the Ribble Valley Food Trail, which was created three
years ago and takes in the market towns of Clitheroe
and Longridge, and 34 food producers ranging from
farmers to delis, black-pudding producers, cheese and
ice-cream makers.
At his gastro pub The Three Fishes (thethreefi shes.
com), Haworth explains his regional-food agenda over
a deliciously comforting Lancashire hotpot made
“We try to be as natural as possible and the
cooking is rooted in its surroundings”

FEATURES | MANCHESTER
WHERE TO STAY
Tasty places to eat and sleep
THE INN AT WHITEWELL
It’s a winding 20-minute drive from Clitheroe
to this atmospheric country inn with roaring
log fi res, four-poster beds and delicious,
locally sourced cuisine. The dramatic views
over the River Hodder valley aren’t too bad
either. Book at hotels.easyjet.com
THE YORKE ARMS
Presided over by Michelin-starred chef
Frances Atkins, this former coaching inn is
close to Harrogate in the rural Nidderdale
Valley. It has a cosy bar, intimate dining
room and luxurious accommodation. Book
at hotels.easyjet.com
Left, Emma Robinson and Ian
O’Reilly with the rare Oxford Sandy
and Black piglets born on their
Gazegill Organic Farm; below,
sunset, as seen from The Three
Fishes, an award-winning pub and
restaurant in Mitton, Lancashire
TRAVELLER | 59

FEATURES | MANCHESTER
with the indigenous breed of Lonk lamb. “I want
people who come to these pubs to get to know the food
and the county. Does using an indigenous breed make
my hotpot taste better? Yes, it does. It brings character
and interest to the dishes. I’m obsessed with high-
quality local food that can compete with the best food
in the world, and that’s something that drives me and
the other producers here.”
Many of the producers Haworth mentions are
in nearby Clitheroe, which is known for its wealth
of artisan shops, including Cowman’s Butchers
(cowmans.co.uk), a Lancashire institution that boasts
more than 65 varieties of sausage. Fifth-generation
owner Cliff Cowburn, who creates most of the recipes
is, quite simply, sausage mad. “I dream in sausages,” he
tells me. Also well worth a visit is the labyrinthine
D Byrne & Co wine shop (dbyrne-fi newines.co.uk),
with over 4,000 wines and 800 whiskeys; and the
utterly charming cheese supplier Cheesie Tchaikovsky
(tel: +44 (0)120 042 8366).
Why is all this local produce so good? Maybe it
has something to do with where it comes from. Take
60 | TRAVELLER
Gazegill Organic Farm (gazegillorganics.co.uk), on
the border of Yorkshire and Lancashire. Gazegill has
been in 31-year-old Emma Robinson’s family for 500
years, and she and partner, Ian O’Reilly, take their job
extremely seriously. Indeed, I arrive just after Rosie,
a fi ve-year-old Oxford Sandy and Black rare-breed
pig, has given birth to six piglets, so it seems a perfect
opportunity to fi nd out what makes their produce so
special. “These are a very rare British breed,” explains
O’Reilly. “They’re very slow growing – we believe if
you’re using an animal for food, you should give it as
natural and as long a life as possible.”
The couple also raise beef and rose veal, and have a
herd of dairy cows, some as old as 18, with names like
Hyacinth and Carrot. “They’re a part of our family –
we get up with them in the morning,” says Emma. The
farm’s on-site shop sells everything from homemade
sausages to whole animals for restaurants and patrons,
and beef is hung for up to six weeks for extra fl avour.
So far, so thriving, but it hasn’t always been this way.
In fact, the achievements of these local food heroes
cannot be overstated when you consider that it’s just

“I want people
to get to know
the food and
the county”
over a decade since the 2001 foot-and-mouth disease
outbreak among livestock decimated local herds. The
north suffered gravely, with Cumbria being the worst
hit. But slowly and surely, people like Rogan, Haworth
and Robinson have been working at attracting visitors
back, strengthening and diversifying their businesses
and supporting local food.
Things are no less vibrant across the border in the
upmarket town of Harrogate, where Yorkshire produce
abounds in its restaurants, delis and the famous
Betty’s Tea Rooms (bettys.co.uk). It was here that a
young Tom Van Zeller cut his teeth, before working for
renowned chef Tom Aikens at London’s two-Michelinstarred
Pied à Terre. He’s now returned to Yorkshire
to open Van Zeller (vanzellerrestaurants.co.uk),
providing “fi ne food without the price tag or fuss”. On
the menu you’ll fi nd beautifully assembled dishes,
such as maple-syrup braised turnips with grated
black truffl e, pink grapefruit and hazelnut sable, and
exquisite pheasant ballotine with thick, sticky game
sauce. The cooking is, he says, “rooted in Yorkshire
with a backbone in classic French”.
Clockwise from left,
The Three Fishes in
Lancashire serves
food made from
regional produce;
Cliff Cowburn in his
Clitheroe sausage
shop; some of the
cheeses made at
Thornby Moor
Dairy; behind the
scenes at L’Enclume
restaurant in
Cartmel, Cumbria
easyJet fl ies to...
FEATURES | MANCHESTER
Van Zeller is proud of Yorkshire’s cuisine, citing
Frances Atkins, chef at The Yorke Arms in Pateley
Bridge and one of only six women in the country to
hold a Michelin star, as “the benchmark” for local
gastronomy. It’s fi tting that I end my trip with a visit
to her kitchen, where I fi nd her excited about the
freshly caught hare on the menu that night. “It’s really
healthy, but has the most delicious fl avour,” she says.
“I’m very big on game – I just love the depths of taste.”
And guess what? Sure enough, it’s one of the best
game dishes I’ve ever eaten. Then again, that doesn’t
come as a surprise now. It’s something I’ve thought
virtually every time I’ve put food in my mouth since
I began this northern road trip. So next time you’re
planning a foodie visit to the UK, don’t just fl ap like a
hungry moth to the bright lights of London – there’s a
culinary world to explore up north.
With thanks to Europcar (cars.easyjet.com)
Manchester from 24 destinations and Leeds from
Geneva. See our insider guides on pages 156 and
139. Book online at easyJet.com
TRAVELLER | 61

PHOTOS © 4CORNERS
FEATURES | ANDALUSIA
62 | TRAVELLER
UNDER THE
IN 1962, PENELOPE CHETWODE, WIFE OF THE POET JOHN BETJEMAN, RODE INTO
THE WILDS OF ANDALUSIA AND PENNED A BOOK ABOUT HER ADVENTURE. FIFTY
YEARS ON, HER DAUGHTER, CANDIDA LYCETT GREEN, RECALLS THE TRIP
MY MOTHER WAS 51 when she took off for
Spain. And looking back now, she was miles
ahead of her time. She thought nothing of
setting off alone on a horse she hardly knew,
into the unfamiliar wilds of a foreign country she had
never been to. The mule tracks she rode along were
unmarked on any maps and she navigated by the
Sierra mountains, the dry riverbeds and ravines, or by
asking for directions from a shepherd if she was lucky
enough to meet one. She travelled around 160km,
from Illora to Cazorla, and wandered back a different
way. Her book Two Middle-aged Ladies in Andalusia
(the middle-aged ladies being the horse and herself) is
a moving testament to that indomitable spirit, and her
open-heartedness, trusting nature and disarmingly
straightforward approach are everywhere in her
account of this odyssey through a remote, inexorably
beautiful and often unforgiving landscape.
Her love of travelling by horse had always been
with her (much of my childhood was spent riding
in her wake across the Berkshire Downs), but it was
only when my brother and I had fi nally fl own the nest
that she felt justifi ed in leaving home for any length of
time. My father, the poet John Betjeman, was already
famous but, independent to the last, my mum never
lived in his shadow nor basked in his refl ected glory.
If she decided to learn Spanish in her fi fties, she had
the determination to carry it through. She chose to
be without a car or telephone for the last 20 years of
her life, and used her horse and cart to drive down
into town to do her shopping. Under her address, her
writing paper read, “No telephone, thank God”.
She attended regular lectures on nuclear physics
and philosophy, read Sanskrit, wrote articles on Indian
temples, was a legendary cook, and gave the author
H G Wells such a fascinating account of the history
and techniques of Caesarean birth that he was
prompted to say, “‘If I were married to that girl,
I would throw away my encyclopaedia”.
Having been brought up in a grand house with
butlers, cooks and grooms doing everything for her
(her father was Commander-in-Chief of the British
Army in India), she spent the rest of her life trying to
get back to a simple way of life: the Spain of 50 years
ago provided everything she craved.
The author George Borrow’s account of his travels
through Spain was certainly one of her inspirations
and she had visions of fi nding a beautiful Arabian
stallion like his on which to reach the remote places

This page, Penelope
Chetwode on La
Marquesa during her
ride through Andalusia
in 1962; opposite page,
bottom left, Cazorla,
which marked the
turning-around point
of the trek

PHOTOS © BASSANO/NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY, 4CORNERS, CORBIS
64 | TRAVELLER
Top, Penelope Chetwode navigated using natural landmarks,
like the Sierra Nevada mountains; above, our writer Candida
Lycett Green, with her brother, Paul Betjeman, and mother,
Penelope (née Chetwode), Lady Betjeman, in 1948;
right, horses have always been important in Andalusia –
the region even has its own eponymous breed

IN THEIR FOOTSTEPS Three more travelogues for inspiration
FEATURES | ANDALUSIA
“Touring on a horse seems to bring out the
best in the people you meet”
she planned to visit. Instead, she ended up with a plain
bay mare used for breeding mules who, at 12, was the
equivalent age as herself. She was called La Marquesa
and had been lent to her by the Duke of Wellington,
whose estate at Molino del Rey was originally
presented by Spain to the fi rst Duke of Wellington
(known as the Iron Duke) in gratitude for his driving
Napoleon out of the country. After a large breakfast in
the estate manager’s house, and with her saddlebags
(which I still use on all my long rides) and rucksack
crammed with few clothes and far too many books,
including Don Quixote – Volume 1, she set off.
That she was in some kind of heaven during
her month’s ride through Andalusia is evident: her
passions – religion, food, horses and architecture –
were there for the taking. She went to mass almost
every morning and, as a result of her Spanish lessons,
sometimes understood the sermon: certainly she
could discuss religion with the priest afterwards and
often did. She marvelled at the buildings and villages
she came upon – the church and pilgrim’s hostel
at Tiscar on its mountain pinnacles; the Moorish
castle and renaissance church at Huelma among
olive groves; the shrine of the Virgin of Cuadro in the
Sierra de Mágina; the cave dwellings at Jódar and
the 16th-century Palacio de la Rambla at Úbeda. She
learned how to cook proper paella over an open fi re
and helped to prepare Sunday feasts, which often
involved skinning and gutting a rabbit (“having killed,
plucked and drawn many hundreds of ducks, geese
and chickens in my time, I did not feel squeamish
about the procedure,” she wrote), frying it with garlic
and parsley before stewing it. Of course, she fed La
Marquesa fi rst thing in the morning before she went to
mass – that goes without saying, for her love of horses
was absolute. She put them before herself at all times
AN INLAND VOYAGE
BRUSSELS In 1876, fi ve years
before he penned Treasure
Island, RL Stevenson went on
an adventure – a 322km canoe
journey through Belgium and France. Along
with his great friend, Sir Walter Simpson, he
paddled from Antwerp down the Oise River.
A TRAMP ABROAD
MUNICH Setting out to walk
across mainland Europe, Mark
Twain found much to please
and amuse him in Bavarian life.
His resulting thoughts on these ramblings
were published in 1880 and are still
well-thumbed today.
and never stopped learning more about them.
Her enthusiasm was infectious and her fascination
with the minutiae of life hilarious. She had always
suffered from a weak bladder and her accounts of the
sanitary arrangements, or lack of them, wherever she
stayed (she was frequently reduced to peeing in La
Marquesa’s stable in the middle of the night) are as
natural to her as her descriptions of a fi ne 17th-century
façade in a town square. She was often caught short
for, as she discovered, “You are never alone for long in
Spain”. For that reason she felt safe and her long love
affair with Spain began.
“I had seen human beings as God meant them to
be,” she wrote towards the end of her journey. “Touring
on a horse seems to bring out the best in the characters
of the people you meet… The innkeepers and their
wives and children, the families who put me up,
the parish priests and their curates, even the much-
abused Guardia Civil, had all been out to help me; I
had enjoyed only the most friendly and unselfi sh traits
in their characters, which added to the extraordinary
beauty of their countryside and made me feel that I had
ridden through the garden of Paradise before the Fall.”
Faced with the complications of modern life, my
mother’s return to a simple way of doing things, and
to the value of living in harmony with nature, was
the recurring theme in her life and her Andalusian
adventure was an important part of this. As a bolshie
teenager, I didn’t fully appreciate the magnitude of
what she had achieved back then. I do now.
Two Middle-aged Ladies in Andalusia is reissued
this month by Eland (£12.99, travelbooks.co.uk)
easyJet fl ies to...
Malaga from 12 destinations and from Seville from
London. See our insider guides on pages 152 and
175. Book online at easyJet.com
LOVE AND WAR IN THE
APENNINES
VERONA
Eric Newby’s 1971 memoir
describes his escape from a
WWII prison camp through the stunning
highlands of northern Italy and his romance
with a local girl who later became his wife.
TRAVELLER | 65

FEATURES | ZAGREB
THE NEW FACES OF
66 | TRAVELLER

ZAGREB KIMBERLEY
LOVATO TIM WHITE
FEATURES | ZAGREB
Clockwise from opposite
page top left, fashion
designers Martina
Vrdoljak Ranilovic and
Nataša Mihaljcišin;
blogger Iva Silla; music
festival director Zoran
Maric; museum founders
Olinka Vištasca and
Dražen Grubišic; chef
Jeff rey Vella; café owner
Nik Orosi
MEET THE TASTEMAKERS WHO ARE TURNING THE
CROATIAN CAPITAL INTO A TRUE CITY OF CULTURE
MORE EUROPEAN than Balkan, and now healed from the
punctures of socialist Yugoslavian claws, Croatia has emerged
as a top tourist destination over the past decade, with millions
of sun seekers crowding the thousand kilometres of islandspeckled
Adriatic coastline each year. Yet its capital, Zagreb,
remains an enigma to most: just a pass-through point en
route to elsewhere for many travellers.
With Croatia on deck for accession to the EU next year,
now's the time to check it out. The city is more abuzz than it
has ever been and you’ll fi nd cultural events, fashion-forward
designers, convivial nightlife and a growing food scene taking
place amid the classic Austro-Hungarian facades.
And who better to give us the inside track on where to go
than the passionate trendsetters who are putting Zagreb’s
best foot forward? Eager to reveal the city’s secrets. they’re
standing (metaphorically speaking) wide-armed to welcome
visitors to Europe’s next must-see destination. The question
is: are you ready for a tour?
TRAVELLER | 67

FEATURES | ZAGREB
THE STYLE SET
NATAŠA MIHALJČIŠIN AND MARTINA
‘TINA’ VRDOLJAK RANILOVIĆ
FASHION DESIGNERS
High fashion may be the norm in Milan
and Paris, but in Zagreb? Absolutely,
according to Martina Vrdoljak
Ranilovic and Nataša Mihaljcišin, two
local designers hoping to bring Croatian
fashion to the world.
Indeed, you just need spend a
Saturday night out in the city centre
to see that well-heeled women are as
ubiquitous as the outdoor terraces along
Tkalciceva Street. “Women here like to
dress up,” says Ranilovic. “It’s something
we carry with us from our past – a
cultural heritage of sorts. Yet Croatian
people are still somewhat insecure when
it comes to domestic goods and are
more willing to buy foreign fashion.”
68 | TRAVELLER
After graduating from Zagreb’s
Faculty of Textile Technology, the
design duo opened a boutique and
workshop in 1997 called I-GLE, a play
on words that means both “needles” and
“have a look”. It has become the capital’s
go-to address for edgy fashionistas.
“We take a classic everyday piece of
clothing and turn it into something
that will make a woman feel gentle,
seductive and self-confi dent – and
certainly special.”
I-GLE, 4Dežmanova;
tel: +385 (0)484 6508, i-gle.com
CITY PICKS
SHOP Naturally, I-GLE, but also
Prostor (5 Mesnicka; tel: +385 (0)1484
6016), where you can fi nd interesting
clothes and accessories from young
Croatian designers.
EAT A lovely little tavern called Lari
& Penati (42A Petrinjska; tel: +385
(0)1465 5776) for a simple bite to eat
and a glass of fi ne wine.
“Women
here like
to dress
up. It’s a
cultural
heritage”

FEATURES | ZAGREB
THE FOOD HERO
JEFFREY VELLA EXECUTIVE CHEF,
REGENT ESPLANADE ZAGREB HOTEL
The Regent Esplanade Zagreb is a
symbol of the city’s traditional past and
a beacon for local foodies, who come
for award-winning chef Jeffrey Vella’s
modern cuisine.
“The hotel was opened in the art
deco era, one of the most daring and
iconoclastic design periods,” says Vella.
“It’s always been at the forefront of the
progressive movement here and I like
to think the food we’re presenting is
contributing to that image.”
Expect seasonal local produce, such
as wild asparagus and white truffl es, as
well as fl avour combinations and tasting
menus that offer creativity and intrigue,
while refi ning traditional dishes, like
regional specialty štruklji (fi lled dough).
“We are slowly changing mindsets
and there are some real foodies around
who want to celebrate innovation,” says
Vella. “And maybe, just maybe, we can
convince those nice people at Michelin
that there is a border to cross.”
1 Mihanoviceva; tel: +385 (0)1456
6000, regenthotels.com
CITY PICKS
EAT Besides the Esplanade, a spicy beef
sandwich at Pingvin (7 Teslina; open
24/7) is unmissable.
OUTDOORS Just north of the city is
the Medvednica Nature Park (Forestry
Bliznec; tel +385 (0)1458 6317,
pp-medvednica.hr), where you can hike
to the 1,030m summit of Sljeme.
TRAVELLER | 69

FEATURES | ZAGREB
THE CULTURAL
CURATORS
OLINKA VIŠTASCA AND DRAŽEN
GRUBIŠIĆ CO-FOUNDERS, MUSEUM
OF BROKEN RELATIONSHIPS
Every city has museums, but none can
boast anything as fun or poignant as
the Museum of Broken Relationships,
which exhibits relics from failed
relationships, donated from around
the world. There's a suspender belt, for
instance, and a tin sold as love incense
with a sign that reads "Doesn't work".
“We wanted to do something nice
and positive to revive the city's Upper
Town,” says Grubišic, Zagreb native and
co-founder of the museum. “There is a
lot to discover here.”
Vištasca and Grubišic are themselves
a former couple, who fi rst had the idea
after splitting their own possessions in
the aftermath of their own breakup.
What started as a small exhibition
in 2006 blossomed into a travelling
sensation that has caused a stir across
Europe. A permanent site was opened
in October 2010 and, less than a year
later, it won the prestigious Kenneth
Hudson Award for most innovative
museum in Europe.
“There is a vibrant, independent
creative scene in Zagreb, but it needs
support,” says Vištasca. “The museum is
proof that culture can generate income
and tourism.”
2 Cirilometodska; tel: +385 (0)1485
1021, brokenships.com
CITY PICKS
EAT Prasac (6 Vranicanijeva, tel: +385
(0)1485 1411, prasac.hr) for chef Dino
Galvagno’s fresh and inventive food.
MUSIC Culture Factory (2 Šubiceva;
tel: +385 (0)1562 1078, tvornicakulture.
com), a multipurpose space with a wide
range of contemporary live music.
70 | TRAVELLER
“We
wanted
to do
something
positive for
the city”

THE CAFÉ KING
NIK OROSI BARISTA AND OWNER
ELI’S CAFFÉ
Coffee houses fi rst percolated in Zagreb
in the 18th century and they have
been the preferred gathering spot for
caffeine-addicted Croats ever since.
Though most grand Austro-Hungarian
cafés have faded from view, Eli’s Caffé
blends a contemporary caffeine scene
with the old-world, linger-awhile appeal
of yore. Most importantly, Nik Orosi
knows coffee: a hobby that started as
a dream (literally) and turned into a
passion he hopes is contagious.
“I want it to feel open and welcome
here, and for people to talk about coffee
as they do about wine,” says Orosi.
“Specialty coffee in Croatia is a new
thing, and the seasonal coffees that I
offer are rare in cafés and restaurants.”
As the only person in Zagreb roasting
his own beans, Orosi takes his skills
seriously, swirling and sniffi ng each cup
like a sommelier. His title of Croatian
National Barista Champion three years
in a row, 2006-08, earns him the right
to brag, but he doesn’t.
And just what’s so great about
his coffee? “After two glasses of
Champagne, you’ll do something wrong.
After two cups of my coffee, everything’s
all right,” laughs Orosi.
63 Ilica; tel: +385 (0)91 455 5608,
eliscaffe.com
CITY PICKS
DRINK Art Café Cica Bar (18
Tkalciceva; tel: +385 (0)95860 9899) is
a great place to taste a variety of local
rakija (fruit brandy) and listen to music.
OUTDOORS Centrally located
Maksimir Park (park-maksimir.hr) for
the greenery and the zoo (zgzoo.com).
TRAVELLER | 71

FEATURES | ZAGREB
THE MUSIC
MAESTRO
ZORAN MARIĆ FOUNDER AND
DIRECTOR INMUSIC FESTIVAL
Zagreb has a rich events calendar
that sees locals pack into dozens
of museums, exhibits and festivals
celebrating fi lm, comics, modern dance,
art and much in between. But, in its
home-grown INmusic Festival, the city
can boast Croatia’s biggest international
open-air event, which welcomes nearly
50,000 revellers each June to discover
the music-centric city.
“It’s pure fun and leisure, with
multiple stages, a variety of artists and
friendly locals,” says festival creator and
director, Zoran Maric. “We promote
quality young bands, and music and
culture from all over the world. ”
Maric started it up in 2006, when
multi-day, open-air festivals were
virtually unheard of in Croatia. The
debut was held on a small stage in
the city centre, with Morrissey as a
headliner. Rapid popularity means the
event has moved to an island on Lake
Jarun, in the southwest of the city,
72 | TRAVELLER
where visitors now camp out, as well as
listen to bands and dance to DJ-spun
tunes until 4am (29-30 June, this year).
“We’re used to good music and have
always had a good cultural connection
to other European capitals, but we were
cut off in the 90s because of the war
and it took a lot of time to recover,” says
Maric. “Now there are others trying to
do the same thing as us. This tells me
THE LOCAL
EXPERT
IVA SILLA RESIDENT, BLOGGER
AND MOTHER OF TWO
These days, it seems the internet has
usurped some traditional travel guides
as the prime source for local tips and
advice. And Zagreb native Iva Silla is
tapping into this cyber phenomenon
with her blog, Secret Zagreb, in hopes of
attracting curious voyagers to her city.
“When I travel, it’s hard to fi nd
information on topics of my interest,
such as local lore and insights,” she says.
“I’m hoping my blog grows into a sort of
off-road information source for Zagreb.”
Silla is inspired by her love of the
city and you'll fi nd her recommending
outdoor cinemas and pop-up art
that we were right on when we started.”
inmusicfestival.com
CITY PICKS
EAT Korcula, for seafood and
Mediterranean fl avours (17 Teslina; tel:
+385 (0)1487 2159, restoran-korcula.hr).
FIRST TIMER Book a local guide at the
tourist offi ce (5 Kaptol; tel: +385 (0)1489
8555, zagreb-touristinfo.hr).
projects, or just musing on local
oddities like the mummy in the city's
archaeological museum. She hopes to
soon begin offering guided walks too.
“I think Zagreb has a side for
everyone to enjoy and based on
responses, it seems my point of view is
inspiring some to think of Zagreb as a
stand-alone destination.”
secret-zagreb.com
CITY PICKS
COFFEE Destino Café (34 Radiceva;
tel: +385 (0)1481 3891) or Eli’s Caffé, on
Ilica Street (see previous page).
SOUVENIR The colorful Dolac Market
(by Ban Jelacic Square) is good for
handmade wooden pieces.
easyJet fl ies to...
Zagreb from Dortmund, London and
Paris. See our insider guide on page
180. Book online at easyJet.com

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PHOTO © ARCAID/NATALIE TEPPER
FEATURES | AIRPORT DESIGN
F L I G H T S
DOUGLAS ADAMS ONCE WROTE,
“IT IS NO COINCIDENCE THAT IN
NO KNOWN LANGUAGE DOES
THE PHRASE ‘AS PRETTY AS AN
AIRPORT’ APPEAR.” CLEARLY,
HE DIDN’T SEE ANY OF THESE
ARCHITECTURAL MARVELS
AROUND OUR NETWORK
74 | TRAVELLER
O F
F A N C Y
OLIVER WAINWRIGHT
NAME MADEIRA AIRPORT
BUILT 1964 (RUNWAY EXTENDED
IN 2000)
Check out the legs on that! Once
infamous for its mountainous approach
and tiny, 1,600m runway, which posed
a huge challenge to pilots, Madeira
Airport literally went back to the drawing
board in 2000. The idea of extending
the runway on 180 concrete columns
was a pioneering – some might say
risky – move, but it paid off , winning
designer António Segadães Tavares the
Outstanding Structures Award from the
International Association for Bridge and
Structural Engineering in 2004.

NAME DALAMAN AIRPORT, TURKEY
BUILT 2006
Simple. Elegant. Eco-friendly? Well, as airports go,
Dalaman’s travel hub is about as good as it gets.
Using 40% less energy than the average terminal, its
international building is oversailed by a lattice roof that
allows the main hall to benefi t from natural light.
Not only has Bünyamin Derman and Emre Arolat
Architects’ design won critical support, being highly
commended in the Architecture Review’s Emerging
Architecture Awards in 2006, but – with its pared-back,
glass building and imposing marching colonnades –
it’s something of a modern classic.
NAME MARRAKECH-
MÉNARA AIRPORT
BUILT 2008
Providing both shelter
from the north African
rays and an attractive
dappled-light eff ect on
the concourse below,
the lattice rhombuses
above the entrance to
Marrakech-Menara are a
design feature with both
style and function. The
building, which was
designed by local practice
E2A Architecture, is
inspired by traditional
Islamic ornament and
powered by solar energy
from rooftop photovoltaic
pyramids.
TRAVELLER | 75

FEATURES | AIRPORT DESIGN
WHAT FRANZ JOSEF STRAUSS AIRPORT, MUNICH
BUILT 2004
As one might expect from the city that produced the
elite engineering of BMW, Munich’s Airport Centre has
an effi ciently excecuted answer to airport planning.
Designed by Helmut Jahn, who also created Bangkok’s
dramatic Suvarnabhumi Airport, the airport’s massive,
vaulted glass roof overlays a central courtyard,
combining terminals 1 and 2 into a unique space with
generous civic character, reminiscent of grand, 19thcentury
railway terminals.
76 | TRAVELLER
With its massive vaulted glass
roof, it is reminiscent of grand,
19th-century railway terminals

PHOTO © iSTOCKPHOTO, AGAENA
NAME PARIS-CHARLES DE GAULLE AIRPORT
BUILT 1974–2003
Blade Runner has nothing on this airport’s crazy
design, which was so far ahead of its time when it was
built in the 1970s that we’ve still not quite caught up.
Developed by architect Paul Andreu, Charles de Gaulle
was conceived as a radical new airport model. Terminal
2, shown here, consists of a “village” of mini-terminals,
linked by underground passageways.
WHAT BARCELONA
EL PRAT AIRPORT,
TERMINAL 2
BUILT 1970
Terminal 2 might not look
special from the inside,
but step outside and
you’ll be dazzled by a
50m-long ceramic mural
by Joan Miró, one of four
pieces which he donated
to the city. Produced
in collaboration with
Josep Llorens Artigas,
it’s composed of 4,865
handmade terracotta
tiles, each 26x38cm, and
weighs in at 30 tons.
TRAVELLER | 77

FEATURES | AIRPORT DESIGN
NAME BEN GURION AIRPORT, TEL AVIV
BUILT 2004
This dishy-looking terminal is built around a central
rotunda, above which fl oats a concrete bowl that lets in
light and air. Designed by Moshe Safdie as a practical
solution to growing international traffi c, the airy building
surrounds a courtyard garden, planted with native
species mentioned in the Bible, while the adjoining
passage is clad in the same stone as the Wailing Wall.
78 | TRAVELLER
WHAT SONDICA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT, BILBAO
BUILT 2000
What could be more natural an inspiration for a centre of
aviation than bird life? This airport, designed by Spain’s
most celebrated architect, Santiago Calatrava, is formed
from two sinuous white concrete wings that soar up to
meet at a raised tip at the centre, earning the building
the nickname La Paloma (The Dove).

Maybe the biggest Japanese
village in Basle.
Museum, Shop and Restaurant, daily from 10 until 18
Steinenvorstadt 1, CH-4051 Basle | The building is acces sible by wheelchair.
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Toy Worlds
Museum Basle
« My engineers find me demanding.
Good news.»
Gilles Lapierre, boss who does not accept concessions.
Eden Park clothes Gilles Lapierre.

Walking on Sliema’s rocky
coastline. A few kilometres
from Valletta, it is far
removed from the
Baroque style of the
capital city and is one of
the best places for a
sunshine stroll. Follow the
coast to pretty St Julian’s
with nothing but the odd
boulder in your way
MARIANO HERRERA JO CARUANA
FASHION BY NINO BAUTI
WITH ITS MEGALITHIC TEMPLES, TEMPLES A BUZZING CAPITAL AND STUNNING STUNNINGCOA COASTLINE,
MALTA MAKES AN IDEAL – AND UNEXPECTEDLY CULTURAL – SPRING GETAWAY
THERE ARE SOME common misconceptions about Malta. Having carved its niche as a
sand-and-sea destination in the 1970s, many think of it as a winter getaway for retirees
or a no-frills option for summer sun. In fact, its rich history stretches a lot further back.
Since 7000BC, the tiny rock has entertained many occupants, including the
Romans, Turks and the Knights of St John. Nowhere is this more evident than in the
capital, Valletta, with its grand gardens, imposing palaces and buzzing café scene. It’s
currently in the running to become the 2018 European Capital of Culture, a fact that
has spurred a fl urry of activity, with the long-overdue rebuilding of the Royal Opera
House and the construction of a new Parliament.
Melding a captivating city break, enchanting historical destination and stunning
seaside holiday, it makes for a spring trip of substance. Who would have thought it?
80 | TRAVELLER

HE WEARS Jumper, YSL at Selfridges, £310; cardigan, Tiger of Sweden at Selfridges, £120; belt, Fendi, price on request; shorts, Paul Smith, £115, and shoes, £235;
scarf, Acne at Selfridges, £95
SHE WEARS Jacket, Chanel, £1,156; shorts, Next, £22; shoes, L K Bennett, £95
TRAVELLER | 81

FEATURES | MALTA
ZURRIEQ AND BLUE GROTTO
Light years from the hustle and
bustle that prevails across much
of the island, the Blue Grotto and
nearby Zurrieq Valley promise
escape from it all. The valley is
a fi ne example of the Maltese
countryside, an oft-overlooked
aspect of life here. It’s a prime
spot for discovering all sorts of
local fauna and fl ora, so be sure to
pack your walking boots.
The Blue Grotto is a sight
to savour too. Sparkling blue
waters twinkle in and around the
natural caverns here, while other
vibrant hues pop from the sea,
thanks to the array of life that
goes about its business beneath
the surface. A good way to see
it all is to hop abroad one of the
waiting luzzus – traditional,
brightly painted fi shing boats –
which will take you on a tour of
the whole coast. Don’t forget to
snap a shot of uninhabited Filfl a,
a mystical island just off the
coast. Finally, swing by the aweinspiring
megalithic Ggantija
Temples on Gozo – long-standing
proof of the eclectic uniqueness of
these islands.
HE WEARS Above, top, Martin Margiela at Selfridges, £265; trousers, Burton, £35; shoes, McQ by Alexander McQueen, £225 sunglasses, Ray-Ban, model’s own.
Opposite page, shirt, Rajesh Pratap Singh at Browns, £230; trousers, H&M, £29.99; belt, Fendi, price on request; shoes, Paul Smith, £235
SHE WEARS Shirt, Tommy Hilfi ger, £80; skirt, Dries Van Noten at Selfridges, £530; scarf (worn around waist), Paul Smith, £95; shoes, Wallis, £28;
bag, Antonello at Anthropologie, £298
82 | TRAVELLER
Above, A fi sherman’s
boatyard close to the Blue
Grotto; left; the nearby
fi shing village of
Marsaxlokk; right, on the
Blue Grotto’s rocks

TRAVELLER | 83

FEATURES | MALTA
GRAND HARBOUR
Valletta’s harbour has been the
nation’s main landing point for
centuries, greeting everyone from
the Phoenicians to today’s cruiseship
day-trippers.
Easily the island’s greatest
geographic asset, the Grand
Harbour is a natural formation
that has welcomed thousands of
the island’s friends throughout
history – and rejected its enemies.
The Knights of St John who
constructed the wharfs, fortifi ed
them from all angles to protect
Malta from attack. This proved
especially useful during the
Great Siege of 1565, when nearby
forts of St Elmo, St Michael and
St Angelo helped to repel an
Ottoman invasion.
These days, things are far more
peaceful, with fi shing boats,
pleasure cruises and commercial
ships skimming the waves.
The Upper Barrakka Gardens
offer fabulous views across the
harbour to the fortifi ed Three
Cities and beyond. If you want a
closer look, head to the Valletta
Waterfront, with its cafés,
restaurants and boutiques. You
can dine on traditional Maltese
fare at Pintonino (Vault 15,
Valletta Waterfront; tel: +356
2122 7773) or pop into the Mdina
Glass outlet (14 Merchant Street;
mdinaglass.net) for locally made,
hand-blown glass, then hop on a
gondola for a romantic tour of the
Grand Harbour from the sea.
84 | TRAVELLER
Looking out towards the
harbour entrance with
Fort St Angelo in
the background
HE WEARS Jacket, Paul Smith, £429;
trousers, Topman, £35; scarf, Ralph
Lauren, price on request; shoes, McQ by
Alexander McQueen, £220
SHE WEARS Suit, Paul Smith, £1,240;
shirt, Stella McCartney at Browns, £475;
boots, L K Bennett, £195

FEATURES | MALTA
TRAVELLER | 85

FEATURES | MALTA
86 | TRAVELLER
Right, on the stairs of the
Upper Barrakka Gardens;
opposite, on the junction
of St Christopher’s Street
and St Ursula Street
INSIDE VALLETTA
Valletta has two different faces.
By day, it’s a fast-paced business
and commercial capital, while
by night there are eerie alleyways
to explore and a myriad of chic
eateries and trendy wine bars to
duck into. Try Trabuxu (1 Strait
Street; trabuxu.com.mt) for a
great wine list and scrumptious
nibbles, or Legligin (119 St Lucy’s
Street; tel: +356 21 224 699) for a
Maltese take on tapas.
The whole city was planned
by the Knights of St John as a
refuge for injured soldiers and
was one of the fi rst European
cities to be built on a grid. It was
completed in 1570.
Sightseeing wise, St John’s
Co-Cathedral (St Lucia’s Street;
stjohnscocathedral.com) is a
must, with its world-famous
Caravaggio painting of St
John’s gruesome beheading.
Just outside, Republic Street
is the main thoroughfare, a
pedestrian zone dedicated to
shopping, eating and good old
Mediterranean mingling.
SHE WEARS Shirt, McQ by Alexander McQueen, £280; trousers, Benetton, £49.90; shoes, Wallis, £28
HE WEARS Above, top, Acne at Selfridges, £110; trousers, £35, and shoes, £95, Topman; hat, Paul Smith, £50.
Opposite page, cardigan, Paul Smith, £125; shirt, Martin Margiela at Selfridges, £190; trousers, Topman, £35; shoes, £235, and hat, £50, Paul Smith

FEATURES | MALTA
PHOTOGRAPHER Mariano Herrera
FASHION DIRECTOR Nino Bauti
PICTURE ASSISTANT Thomas Steventon
HAIR & MAKE-UP Margo Holder
(lharepresents.com)
FASHION ASSISTANT Normandie Hoche
MODELS Veronica Bobic
(selectmodel.com)
Samuel Tingman (oxygenmodels.com)
STOCKISTS alexandermcqueen.com,
anthropologie.eu, benetton.com, boticca.com,
brownsfashion.com, burton.co.uk,
chanel.com, fendi.com, harveynichols.com,
hm.com, lkbennett.com, next.co.uk,
paulsmith.co.uk, ralphlauren.co.uk,
ray-ban.com, selfridges.com, superdry.com,
topman.com, uk.tommy.com, wallis.co.uk
SPECIAL THANKS Malta Tourist Board,
Gatwick Express
easyJet fl ies to...
Malta from 7 destinations.
See our insider guide on
page 152. Book online at
easyJet.com
SHE WEARS Above, Dress, Stella McCartney at Harvey Nichols, £720; handbag, Kaleido at Boticca.com, £51.50; Qaghaq ta’ I-Ghasel (honey-ring cake), local pastry shop
Opposite page, Jacket, Chanel, £1,937; jeans, Superdry, £54.99; shoes, Chanel, £540; bag, McQ by Alexander McQueen, £400
HE WEARS Cardigan, £38, and vest, £14, Topman; shirt, Maison Martin Margiela at Browns, £195; trousers, H&M, £29.99; shoes, £225, McQ by Alexander McQueen
88 | TRAVELLER
Clockwise from right, the
winding alleys just off
Republic Street; outside
the gates of St John’s
Cathedral; inside St
John’s; a street sculpture
in Lower Valletta

B eautiful Palaces
Infi nitely Xara. Three palaces to enchant you.
One standard of excellence.
The Xara Palace Relais & Chateaux is fi rmly
established as Malta’s fi nest, 5-star deluxe,
privately owned boutique hotel set into the
mighty bastions of Mdina, the silent, medieval
city in Malta.
Upon entering The Xara Lodge, doors
opening June 2012, you will undoubtedly feel
the opulence and uniqueness of this beautiful
country house and be greeted by the warmth
and hospitality of our staff.
Alternatively, Palazzo de Piro is a multifunctional
cultural centre located in the core of the
silent city, the venue for premier national artistic
and heritage events and exhibitions.
For more information about these magnifi -
cent venues, call 2145 0560 or send an email to
events@xarapalace.com.mt
The Xara Palace Relais & Chateaux. Mdina, Malta
(+356) 21 450 560 | info@xarapalace.com.mt | www.xarapalace.com.mt
Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheXaraPalace | Twitter: www.twitter.com/Thexarapalace
MONDAY TO SATURDAY 9.30AM TO 7.30PM
WWW.THEPOINTMALTA.COM TEL: (+356) 2065 5550

AS SPAIN GOES G&T CRAZY, MEET THE
MASTERMINDS BEHIND THE WORLD’S
FIRST PREMIUM TONIC WATER
MALIKA BROWNE
IT’S FRIDAY NIGHT and this minimalist city bar
is heaving with trendy, young professional types.
Nothing out of the ordinary, maybe – it’s a scene being
repeated in similar establishments the world over. But
take a closer look and you’ll see that all the revellers are
clutching oddly oversized glasses. And, if you peer over
the barman’s shoulder, you will see that the shelves of
bottles contain just one type of spirit.
Welcome to Bobby Gin (bobbygin.com), a joint
dedicated entirely to the spirit once decried as
“mother’s ruin”. Formerly the preserve of retired
colonels in England’s Home Counties, gin and tonic is
enjoying a revival among a hipper crowd. But this isn’t
London – we’re in Barcelona’s Gràcia neighbourhood.
It may sound hard to believe, but Spain is in the
midst of a craze that has seen it become Europe’s
largest gin-drinking market, with a penchant for
92 | TRAVELLER
premium brands. Here, gin and tonic is often imbibed
after dinner, spiced with nutmeg, citrus and star anise,
and those balloon glasses are provided to help enhance
the aromatic aromas.
It’s a world away from the British take on G&T, yet
there is a very British face to this story. London-based
entrepreneurs Tim Warrillow and Charles Rolls are the
brains behind a tonic-water brand that has become the
most sought-after accompaniment to gin in Spain.
Called Fever-Tree, it was the world’s fi rst so-called
premium tonic when it launched in 2005 and you’ll
now fi nd it in bars across the Iberian penninsula.
“We’re proudly after the adult market,” explains Rolls
of the premium tag, “so our drinks are deliberately not
over-sweet”.
Fever-Tree uses cane sugar instead of artifi cial
sweetener saccharine, even though the latter is seven

PHOTO © JULIA HOLMES
From left, tonic
entrepreneurs Tom
Warrillow and
Charles Rolls with el
Bulli’s Ferran Adrià
Bobby Gin, one of
Barcelona’s hip new
watering holes, will
serve you whatever you
like, so long as it’s gin
times cheaper, and this may go some way to explaining
the high price tag (in the UK, Schweppes costs
approximately 12p per 100ml to Fever-Tree’s 38p). It
may seem like an excessive expense, but the duo argue
that it makes sense. If drinkers are shelling out for
expensive premium spirits (as is increasingly the case),
it’s only logical that the mixer is of equally high quality
– after all, it makes up 75% of the drink.
Warrillow, 36, fi rst showed entrepreneurial nous
at Newcastle University, where he started a company
hiring out his friends as waiters while taking his
management and marketing degree. He then joined
advertising agency SWK, before going to the East
India Company, researching the gin market. It was
while exploring opportunities with gin that he was
advised to call Charles Rolls, a marketing expert who
had just resurrected the Plymouth gin brand.
The two men initially discussed alcohol, but the
conversation soon turned to tonic and it wasn’t long
before they hatched a plan. They agreed that there
was a gap in the market and they would address it
together. In the following months, Rolls, now 54, and
Warrillow divided their time between research in the
British Library, and trips to Rwanda and Ivory Coast
to source the best quinine (the key ingredient in tonic
water) and ginger. “Sourcing the ingredients has been
the real work involved in setting up the brand,” says
Rolls. A year later, the fi rst bottle of Fever-Tree tonic
water rolled out of the bottling plant.
Barely six years on, the mixer is served in seven
of the world’s 10 best restaurants and exported to
28 countries, including Australia. Fever-Tree was
even named Drinks Company of the Year at the 2011
Drinks Business Awards, the fi rst time a non-alcoholic
beverage company has won the accolade.
The Spanish gin-and-tonic craze began in the
early noughties in San Sebastián, where a food critic,
Rafa Garcia Santos, began to drink it as a digestif.
A popular and infl uential game-show host, Jordi
Estadella, who later went on to host gastronomic
television shows before his death in 2010, also
championed the drink soon after and the fashion
quickly spread across the country.
BUSINESS | FEVER-TREE
According to the Financial Times, the premium
gin market has been growing by 18% per year for the
past fi ve years in Spain, with imported brands such as
Hendricks enjoying even faster growth.
As to how Fever-Tree really took off in Spain –
that comes down to the sort of surreal luck that no
amount of marketing could have dreamed up. Richard
Hamilton, the artist regarded as the father of British
pop art, bought a bottle of the tonic water soon after
its launch in 2006. He liked its shape and contents so
much that he decided to take one to his friend on his
next trip to Spain. That friend happened to be Ferran
Adrià, owner of el Bulli, the restaurant which, until it
closed last year, was regarded as the best in the world.
One evening about a year later, Warrillow received
a phone call. It was el Bulli’s sommelier, wanting to
know if Fever-Tree had a Spanish importer. “We’d
actually been looking for an importer there and had
so far found one who said that Fever-Tree would never
work in Spain. But Ferran is Spain’s culinary poster
boy and he has tremendous power.”
Adrià invited the pair to dinner at el Bulli. After a
35-course meal, they stayed late chatting in schoolboy
French – Adrià speaks little English and they had no
Spanish – and he recommended a Catalan importer
of kitchen equipment who was well-connected in the
trade. But then came the real coup: Adrià was inspired
to concoct a dish based around the tonic. Called sopa
de Fever-Tree tonica, it was a granita of bitter orange
peel, rose petals and liquid nitrogen, and it remained
on el Bulli’s menu until it closed in 2011.
So what next for this brand? A Mediterranean tonic
water with geranium, thyme and lavender is set to
launch, developed specifi cally for vodka, followed by
the wider roll-out of a drink called Lemon, which has
been created in co-operation with Adrià. It’s currently
only available in Spain, but over the next few months,
the rest of Europe will get its fi rst taste. You could say
that cheers or – more appropriately, salud – is in order.
easyJet fl ies to...
Barcelona from 14 destinations. See our insider guide
on page 109. Book online at easyJet.com
Premium priced
Fever-Tree mixers
have plugged a hole
in the upmarket
drinks market
TRAVELLER | 93

PHOTOS © KIM ZWARTS, HOLLANDSE HOOGTE/JURDEN DRENTH, LUC HARINGS
PROPERTY | AMSTERDAM
Northern
exp sure
AMSTERDAM’S NOORD BOROUGH
HAS GONE FROM THE CITY’S LEAST
DESIRABLE DISTRICT TO ITS
HOTTEST SPOT TO LIVE, BUT IS IT
TOO LATE TO BUY THERE?
MARK SMITH
WITH ITS DELUXE waterside penthouses, hip art
galleries and creative industries, Amsterdam’s Noord
borough is a hip, urban neighbourhood, the sort that
can be found in capital cities across Europe.
Like Paris’s Pigalle or Shoreditch in London,
Vienna’s Karmeliterviertel district and Kreuzberg in
Berlin, it’s the kind of place that attracts the coolest
kids and where young professionals fl ock to live, eat
and socialise, in the hope that the cultural buzz will
rub off on them.
Noord shares another thing in common with its
European brethren: until recently, no one wanted
to live there. When Luc Harings moved in 11 years
ago, it was his last resort. “I’d graduated from the
Rijksakademie, I was a starving artist and couldn’t
afford to live anywhere else in Amsterdam,” he recalls.
“After days of fruitless house hunting elsewhere, my
girlfriend said, ‘Let’s face it. We’re going to have to
choose between homelessness and Noord.’”
Run down, impoverished and overlooked – a world
away from the Golden Age grandeur of Amsterdam’s
central canal belt – Noord’s reputation was so bad then
that it was frequently likened to a penal colony by the
well-heeled residents on the “right” side of the water.
“A lot of people in social housing had been moved by
the city council to fl ats in the dirt-cheap Noord, in
order to allow the gentrifi cation of more central areas,
like the picturesque Jordaan,” says Harings. “There
were rumours of ghettos, gangs and social unrest.”
Indeed, with its blustery harbour-side expanses,
austere tower blocks and rusty warehouses – relics of
the heavy industries that once fl ourished here – Noord
may not be the stately idyll that Amsterdam postcards
94 | TRAVELLER
are made of, but that’s precisely its appeal for the new
generation of creatives who’ve made the borough hot
property. “I loved it immediately,” says Harings, who
went on to establish a successful graphic-design studio
in the area. “It turned out to be very different from the
grim stereotype. It’s really quite safe and community
minded, and there’s so much space! When you get on
that ferry from Amsterdam city centre – one of the
most densely populated places in the world – it’s like
you’re leaving your cares behind.”
Consequently, when Harings had the option of
buying his rental house near the Wilhelmina-Dok
six years ago, he jumped at the opportunity to make
Noord his permanent home. “It’s been the perfect
place to bring up my children,” he says of his

Left, the
repurposed
Kraanspoor
crane dock on
Amsterdam’s IJ
waterway now
has a glassed-in
offi ce block
over it; above,
renovated
1960s fl ats in
the Noord
district; below,
Queen’s Day
celebrations
decision. “They have their own garden, something
we’d never have been able to afford on the other side
of the river.” His three-bedroom house is now worth
an estimated €75,000 more than he paid for it, a
common story for homeowners here.
Once they’re teenagers, Harings’s kids won’t have
to look far for inspiration should they wish to make
the most of their newly hip ’hood. Dad’s website
ilovenoord.nl is a guide to every new cultural and
commercial development in the area. So far, it’s
only in Dutch, but there are plans to launch an
English-language version soon. Given the fl urry of
activity all around the area, it looks like his 12-strong
team of volunteer editors will have their hands full.
Formerly a 20,000m 2 ship-building hangar, the
once-derelict NDSM wharf, with its vast Noorderlicht
café hangout has, over the past fi ve years or so, become
the place to be for Amsterdam’s artists and creative
entrepreneurs, thanks to its abundance of space and
inspiring views over the water. Hipsters from around
the Netherlands fl ock to the high-profi le summer
music festivals – such as Robodock, IJazz and Over ’t
IJ – held in and around its halls, and MTV Networks
Europe has been headquartered here since 2007. Next
summer, an entirely new yacht marina is opening
next door. It’s being built by HISWA, which is also
relocating its prestigious In-Water Boat Show here
from September.
Following the recent relocation of the Motive
Gallery from the picturesque Jordaan to the brave new
world of NDSM, local art expert Catherine Somzé
points out that, “these days, [established Amsterdam]
art dealers are often heard discussing plans to move
to the large industrial buildings on the other side of
the IJ [bay].” It’s all quite a change for an area once
dismissed as a cultural wasteland. Indeed, there was
a delicious irony to last winter’s local production Het
godvergeten Noord (The God-Forgotten Noord) – a
look back through the area’s drab history performed by
trendy conceptual theatre company M-Lab.
The multimillion-euro relocation in early April of
the city’s EYE Film Institute, from its former home in
the stately south-westerly Vondelpark to gleaming
TRAVELLER | 95

PHOTOS © HOLLANDSE HOOGTE/KLASS FOPMA, LUC HARINGS
PROPERTY | AMSTERDAM
new 6,300m 2 premises at Overhoeks,
represents the cherry on the cultural
cake for Noord native Adri Doorneveld,
who works as a tourist advisor for the
local government. “When I was a child,
the only cinema in Noord closed down
and I was devastated,” he says. “Now
we’re going to be home to the national
institute of fi lm, itself housing four
state-of-the-art cinemas. Now that’s
what I call regeneration.”
Overhoeks is an entirely new
live-work development on the section of
the Noord waterfront that was formerly home to the
Shell corporation’s Dutch headquarters. Two-bedroom
penthouse apartments in the De Europa building here
are currently being touted for €428,000 and up, but
local estate agent Babette Peters, of Peters-de Jong
(petersdejong.nl), says that there are still bargains
to be had at the lower end of what she describes as
Noord’s “vibrant and fast-moving” property market.
Particularly for those with a little imagination. “‘Near
to the NDSM wharf, the local government is selling
140m 2 plots of land for €100,000 if you submit a
suffi ciently creative house design,” she says, adding
that the area is particularly good for families. “They
can get so much more space for their money here.
For €175,000, you can buy a really lovely split-level
apartment in the up-and-coming Van der Pekbuurt.”
This is a neighbourhood of low-rise garden
dwellings, designed to house shipyard workers in
the last century, and it’s where Niels Wouters – the
96 | TRAVELLER
Above, even litter
bins get the love
in Noord
Buikslotermeerplein
shopping centre in
Amersterdam Noord is
still in the process of
being glammed up
easyJet fl ies to...
NEW PROPERTY
HOTSPOTS
Every March, Cannes hosts the biggest
fi xture in the property calendar. At MIPIM,
deals are made that can defi ne the
real-estate landscape for the year ahead.
Here, Peter Rhodes OBE, managing director
of Reed MIDEM UK, reveals where in the
network the big projects are taking place.
ISTANBUL THE SYMBOL
DEVELOPMENT
This eye-popping 42-storey complex in
the Esenyurt district will include 1,242
apartments, squash courts and a cinema.
AMSTERDAM
UTRECHT STATION AREA
The project to revitalise Utrecht city centre,
25 minutes from the capital by train,
includes a music palace, a new library and
250,000m² of new offi ce space.
man whose wildly successful Hotel de Goudfazant
(hoteldegoudfazant.nl) started the trend for Noord
warehouse dining – is opening a new venture this
summer. “I think the local government is really
encouraging entrepreneurship,” he says. “There are
so many possibilities here compared to the centre
of Amsterdam, which is a heritage site with lots of
planning restrictions.” Situated in a former bank
building, his planned Café Modern will be a laid-back
eaterie featuring guest bedrooms as well as sofas.
Does this mean Noord is bracing itself for an infl ux
of tourists? Those seeking hot clubs and cool art over,
or perhaps as well as, Rembrandts and canals?
“I wouldn’t rule it out,” says Wouters. “When I
opened a restaurant in Noord in 2006, my friends
thought I’d gone mad. Now it’s perfectly normal for
Amsterdammers to catch a ferry over here just to eat.”
For the record, there will be additional transit when
the much-delayed Noord/Zuid metro line eventually
comes into being (current estimates stand at 2017).
Harings, meanwhile, resplendent in the ilovenoord
merchandise he sells via his website, has something
of the demeanour of a long-term music devotee who
fi nds himself torn between basking in the mainstream
acclaim of his idol and resenting the newcomers who
are only now getting in on the act. “The city had
its back turned on us for so long,” he says. “Now it’s
knocking down our door, desperate to join the party.”
Amsterdam from 17 destinations. See our insider
guide on page 106. Book online at easyJet.com

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To find out more about what Bristol can offer you
visit us at MIPIM 2012 on stand 14:17
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life create the perfect place to mix business and pleasure. Home to world-leaders
in energy, tourism, food and drink, specialist manufacturing and logistics, the
commercial landscape is as magnificent as our natural assets.
For more information and to see
what business sites and premises
are on offer visit...
www.investincumbria.co.uk

DIRECTORY | DESTINATION RIVIERA
NIGHTCLUB
T. (377) 98 06 20 20
UNDER THE HIGH PATRONAGE OF H.S.H. SOVEREIGN PRINCE OF MONACO
The best players
in the world
April 14 th to 22 nd
2012
MONTE CARLO COUNTRY CLUB
Tel. (+377) 97 98 7000
www.montecarlorolexmasters.mc
jimmyz@sbm.mc
jimmyzmontecarlo.com
www.epi.mc - 11103 Copyright Andrew Davidson www.theartworksinc.com

Spectacular views are
part of the package at
Monte-Carlo Beach
HAVEN OF LUXURY
WITH A BLEND OF RELAXATION AND SOPHISTICATION, A STAY AT THE
MONTE-CARLO BEACH WILL CHASE AWAY THE WINTER BLUES
THE MONTE-CARLO SBM GROUP
is the last word in luxury, and offers
a sumptuous stay at top leisure venues
in the Principality. These include
hotels, casinos, 33 restaurants and
bars (including the Buddha Bar), spas
and the inimitable Jimmy’z nightclub.
From 2 March, 2012, enjoy a stay
at the Monte-Carlo Beach from just
€225 per night for two people in
an exclusive sea view room
(including breakfast).
Plus you can take advantage of the
Cercle Monte-Carlo Card, exclusive to
Monte-Carlo SBM clients. The Cercle
Card is your passport to amazing
offers and includes:
› free access to the Casino de
Monte-Carlo
› free use of the Resort’s shuttle services
› a 50% discount on green fees at the
Monte-Carlo Golf Club
› a 50% discount on admission fees
at the Monte-Carlo Country Club
Guests of the Monte-Carlo Bay
Hotel & Resort have free use of the
sandy-bottomed lagoon as well as
the Resort’s swimming pool.
Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo and
Hôtel Hermitage Monte-Carlo
PROMOTION
guests have free access to the Beach
Club with seawater pool and private
beach. They also have free use of the
Thermes Marins Monte-Carlo with its
heated seawater pool, Turkish bath,
sauna and cardio training centre.
+377 (0)9 806 2525,
montecarloresort.com

A-Z | DESTINATION GUIDES
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104 | DESTINATION GUIDES
Aberdeen
UK
DIALLING CODE +44
CURRENCY £
FLY FROM
London
(LGW, LTN)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs £20.
The Jet 727 runs
every 30 minutes
directly to the bus
station. From 4.30am,
tickets; £3 return.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Mi
Amore (80–82 Huntly
Street, tel: 01224 639
198) Think Italian:
chequered table cloths,
candlelit tables and
romance. Taste Italian:
aromas of fresh garlic,
parmesan and freshly
baked pizzas, and
a two-course lunch
menu for just £6.95.
EXCLUSIVE The
Conservatory
(North Deeside Road,
Pitfodels, tel: 01224
861 000) Within the
city’s only fi ve-star
hotel, the Marcliff e, is
this restaurant. Enjoy
a pre-dinner drink by
the fi re before your
meal. The luxurious
menu consists of
Russian king crab,
locally sourced beef
and lobster.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Miro’s
Bar (8 Golden Square,
tel: 01224 478 004)
Situated within the
affl uent Golden
Square, Miro’s Bar is
perfect for a sociable
cocktail or two with
friends. Escape from
the cold and make
yourself comfortable
beside the open
fi re, indulging in
a refreshing
watermelon frappe.
LATE & LIVELY
Aurum (150 Union
Street, tel: 01224 638
818) Fancy being a VIP
for a night? Aurum,
Aberdeen’s premier
nightclub, includes four
bars surrounding the
main dancefl oor. With
guest DJs and private
booths, Aurum should
be the nightclub of
choice for the weekend.
THIS MONTH
GO Built in 1323,
Crathes Castle is
surrounded by a
200-hectare estate.
During March, the
castle itself is only
open on Saturday
and Sunday, but the
scenic grounds are
open all week. There’s
an outdoor adventure
playground, too
(Banchory).
NO WAY!
Aberdeen is the third
most popular city in
Scotland with tourists.
Beverley Tricker
Agadir
Morocco
DIALLING CODE +212
CURRENCY MAD
FLY FROM
Berlin, London
(LGW), Lyon, Milan
(MXP), Paris (CDG)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs
about MAD200.
Route 22 to
Inezgane runs
every 40 minutes.
From there take a bus
to Agadir.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
Rotisserie Nahda
(1 Avenue Moulay
Youssef, Dar Taleb,
tel: 0528 827 071)
Tuck into roast lamb
seasoned with cumin,
rotisserie chicken
and traditional
Moroccan tagines, all
at excellent prices.
EXCLUSIVE Golden
Gate Restaurant
(Boulevard du 20
Août, tel: 0528 840
820) Treat yourself
to the chef’s awardwinning
seafood
speciality Meli Melo de
la baie d’Agadir – an
absolutely formidable
FILLER ADVERT
More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
dish consisting of John
Dory, squid, prawns
and mushrooms
cooked in a beautiful
cream sauce.
Unsurprisingly, it took
fi rst prize at the local
Grand Prix Culinary
Festival 2008.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Venezia
Ice (Marina d’Agadir)
Enjoy the cool
evening breeze at the
marina with a nonalcoholic
fruit cocktail,
a selection from
the patisserie
or a refreshing ice
cream. Everything on
off er is made from
natural products.
LATE & LIVELY
Papa Gayo (Riu Tikida
Beach, Chemins
des Dunes, tel: 0528
845 400) Always a
favourite, this nightclub
is perfect for dancing
the night away in
beautiful surroundings
or chilling on the beach
with a cocktail.
THIS MONTH
SEE The Moroccan
Classic Car Rally
revs into action on
17 March and roars
through Agadir on
the 21st. Stand by the
sidelines and cheer on
some truly beautiful
old bangers (rallyemaroc-classic.com).
NO WAY!
Mint tea in Morocco,
is made from green
tea with mint leaves
and enough sugar to
satisfy a sweet tooth
for a month or so.
Anne Imisliou
Alicante
Spain
DIALLING CODE +34
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Basel-Mulhouse,
Belfast (BFS), Bristol,
Edinburgh, Geneva,
Glasgow, Liverpool,
London (LGW,
LTN, SEN, STN),
Manchester, Newcastle
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €20.
An airport bus
to Alicante goes
to the bus and railway
stations, from where
connections can be
made to other resorts.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
El Galeón (5 Paseo
de la Estrellas, tel: 96
686 5454) A romantic
setting with great
sunset views. Dine
among potted plants,
and enjoy dishes from
the great menu of
international cuisine.
EXCLUSIVE Casa
de Maco (Pou Roig,
Benissa, tel: 96 573
2842) Owned by local
character, Flemishborn
Bert de Vooght,
Casa de Maco off ers
a stunning panorama.
The menu is French
and fi rst-rate.
Yorkshire Pride has been building up an excellent reputation as a fantastic place
to eat in Benidorm for the past 16 years. It has become so popular as a home
from home that there is now Yorkshire Pride 1, 2 and 3. Holidaymakers return
year after year seeking the restaurant’s great home-cooked traditional l English
dishes at affordable prices. Owners Tad and Lesley provide entertainment ment
every night with the Tad Cocker Band. They also own ‘Bar Why Not’
situated on the Calle Gerona which has karaoke every night.
Tel: +34 966804932 or +34 649788887
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY
Captain’s Cabin
(Poniente Beach,
Benidorm) A
welcoming, family-run
bar with magnifi cent
views across the bay.
You’ll fi nd this place
at the southern end
of the beach.
LATE & LIVELY
Ku Disco (Avenida
de Comunidad
Valenciana, Benidorm)
Shaped like a stranded
fl ying saucer, this disco
– and pretty much
everywhere else along
this road – rocks until
beyond breakfast.
THIS MONTH
SEE March sees the
start of the Moors and
Christians fi estas along
the Costa Blanca, with
Villafranqueza starting
on the 16th.
NO WAY!
The Roman name for
Alicante, Lucentum,
means “City of Light”.
Danny Collins
HOTEL
CASTILLA
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
Located in San Juan,
a nice coastal resort,
the hotel Castilla
has realxing rooms,
with sea views and
an idyllic pool.
From €43, book at
hotels.easyJet.com.
• Live Music
• Karaoke
• TV Screens
• Pool Tables
• Major Sport Events

More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
Almería
Spain
DIALLING CODE +34
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
London (LGW)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €13.
Route 20 goes to
the centre.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Asador
Calle Mayor (12 Calle
General Segura, tel:
950 239 772) Delicious
tapas are served free
with every drink. If
you’re thirsty, dinner
will cost you nothing.
Otherwise, choose
from a traditional
Spanish menu with
barbecued meats and
local fried fi sh.
EXCLUSIVE Club
de Mar (1 Playa de las
Almadrabillas, tel: 950
230 780) Top-quality
seafood straight from
the Mediterranean.
Groups can order the
house speciality: a
large paella with giant
prawns, mussels,
clams and more.
The terrace off ers
al fresco eating in the
spring sunlight.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Baviera
(10 Calle Tenor Iribarne,
tel: 950 273 008)
As well as the tasty
tapas served up with
any drink you order,
the main draw here is
the local wine, which
is strong and lively. A
great traditional bar.
LATE & LIVELY
Amargo Sound Café
(8 Plaza Marques de
Heredía, tel: 950 856
306) This city-centre
bar is popular for
a late-night drink.
It’s packed out on
weekends, with a
young crowd dancing
to the latest tunes.
TAXI TAXI
ALICANTE
NO WAY!
Rugby is growing in
popularity in Spain,
with new clubs
springing up on the
coast. One of these
fl ourishing clubs is
Albox Rugby Club,
with the team playing
regular matches and
training on Sundays.
David Jones
LOS SECRETOS
SEE Popular
Madrid-based pop
band Los Secretos
are playing at the
Teatro-Auditorio in
Roquetas del Mar
on 9 March
(teatroauditorio
roquetas.org).
BEST location
in town, right in
THE HEART OF THE CITY!
Amman
Jordan
DIALLING CODE +962
CURRENCY JOD
FLY FROM
London (LGW)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com. A
local taxi costs JOD23.
The bus takes 50
minutes from the
airport. Tickets: JOD3
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
Bake On (Princess
Taghreed Street,
Sweifi eh) Come
here for freshly
prepared and
baked Armenian
and Lebanese
pastries and pizzas
with a wide range
of toppings from
simple choices to a
sophisticated mix for
the tastebuds. Open
for breakfast, lunch
and dinner. This is
a real favourite with
the locals.
EXCLUSIVE
The Ivy (Abdoun,
tel: 06 593 5130)
The menu describes
its off erings as
“modern cuisine”,
which essentially
means international
dishes of grilled
meats, pastas and
salads. Floor-toceiling
windows
in this top-fl oor
restaurant give
it a light and airy
ambience and
allow claming views
down onto the
gardens below.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY The
Queen Vic (24 Ali
Nasuh Al Tahir) A
British-style bar,
but not overly
themed. British and
European football
shown on the big
screen and karaoke
on Mondays.
LATE & LIVELY
Flow (Abdoun) Hip
hop, house and
danceable beats in
a sophisticated
setting. Guest local
and international
DJs regularly host
special nights.
THIS MONTH
GO If you want
some western-style
shopping, then
try wandering the
streets of Sweifi eh,
lined with stores for
all your needs and
wants, including
clothes, gifts,
jewellery, books
and gadgets.
NO WAY!
The main areas of
Amman are named
after the hills on
which they rest.
The city’s elevation
ranges from 740m
to 1,400m.
Huw J Williams
DESTINATION GUIDES | 105
Amsterdam
Netherlands
DIALLING CODE +31
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Barcelona, Basel-
Mulhouse, Belfast,
Berlin, Bristol,
Edinburgh, Geneva,
Glasgow, Lisbon,
Liverpool, London
(LGW, LTN, SEN, STN),
Madrid, Manchester,
Milan (MXP), Prague,
Rome, Split
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €50.
There are seven
trains an hour
to Centraal station.
Tickets: €3.80 single.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15
Pancakes! (38
Berenstraat, tel: 020
528 9797) This quaint
parlour in the chic
Nine Streets shopping
district does exactly
what it says on the tin,
serving up imaginative
variations of the Dutch
national dish. Bacon
with maple syrup
is a winner.
UP TO €30 Golden
Brown Bar (146 Jan
Pieter Heijestraat,
tel: 020 612 4076)
This funky, split-level
corner bar has
recently started
serving classic fresh
Thai dishes from its
kitchen on a daily
basis. Service is brisk
yet very friendly, such
that you might be
persuaded to stay on
for a cocktail or two.
UP TO €50
Restaurant Volt (176
Ferdinand Bolstraat,
tel: 020 471 5544) The
decor at this De Pijp
district hangout may
be minimalist, but the
food is anything but.
Med-led classics like
chorizo and tapenade
rub shoulders with
Asian-infl uenced
fare like spring rolls
for an appealing
fusion experience.
EXCLUSIVE Tunes
Restaurant & Bar
(27 Van Baerlestraat,
tel: 020 570 0000)
The Conservatorium,
Amsterdam’s latest
fi ve-star hotel, is the
talk of the well-heeled
Zuid district, where
locals are vying for
tables adjacent to
the open kitchen of
its glam restaurant,
Tunes. Accompanied
by a smoking lounge,
it’s a low-lit, high-end
haven where the tapasinspired
menu delights
with every bite.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Dante
(320 Spuistraat, tel:
020 774 7473) Dante is
a smart Parisian-style
grand café where the
tables are marbletopped
and the
10% DISCOUNT
on presentation of your boarding pass
(boarding pass must match the period of stay)
C/ GRAVINA 5, 03002 ALICANTE
3 53

106 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
Amsterdam
Netherlands
polite waiting staff
wear starched whites.
Situated on the central
Spuistraat, it’s the
ideal place to take the
weight off after a day
at the museums.
LIVE MUSIC The
Sopranos PianoBar
(11 Paardenstraat)
But for the discreet
velvet ropes, you
wouldn’t know that
this elegantly louche
watering hole was
open. Order a cocktail,
pull up a pew around
the grand piano and
be entertained by one
of Amsterdam’s upand-coming
crooners.
LATE & LIVELY De
Bekeerde Suster (6
Kloveniersburgwaal)
Originally a shelter for
fallen women, this wellloved
real ale pub now
embraces the good
times via an extensive
menu of authentic
Dutch tipples and
some of the best
chips in town.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Situated on
glam PC Hooftstraat,
the fl agship store for
Supertrash devises
elegant catwalk
looks for women
with common sense.
Vertiginous heels
come with a pair of coordinating
ballet fl ats
(supertrash.nl).
SEE Not one for
the faint-hearted,
Amsterdam’s Torture
Museum features a
selection of medieval
“instruments of
NL HOTEL
LEIDSEPLEIN
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
justice” such as the
“fl ute of shame”, a
heavy iron block
into which thieves’
fi ngers were strapped
(449 Singel).
GO A short ferry
trip across the IJ
river from behind the
Centraal train station,
the industrial district
of Buiksloterham has
much to recommend
it, including the
Amsterdam botel
(fl oating hotel).
ESCAPE The 22km
bank of the Zaan river
boasts something
for everyone, from
the Zaanse Schans
historic village with its
working windmills to
the Hembrug, a former
military complex
turned culture hub
(zaanstreek.nl).
NO WAY!
The PC Hooftstraat
has recently been
declared the third best
retail destination on
the planet.
Mark Smith
A hotel surrounded
by museums, shops
and parklands, this is
a comfortable stay,
which also off ers
designer interiors.
From €110, book at
hotels.easyJet.com.
Antalya
Turkey
DIALLING CODE +90
CURRENCY TRY
FLY FROM
London (LGW)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com. A
local taxi costs TRY60.
Bus No:202
runs from the
domestic terminal to
the city centre TRY4.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Meshur
Adıyaman Çig
Köftecisi (Varlık Mah,
Teomanpaga Cadesi
92C, Bahçelievler)
Come here for the
çig köfte (delicious,
spicy meatballs), a
traditional eastern
Turkish repast. You
might also like to
try another Turkish
culinary delight
available here, midye
dolması (stuff ed
mussels). Wash them
down with salgam
suyu, a non-alcoholic
beverage made from
beetroot juice.
EXCLUSIVE
Otantik Butik Otel &
Restaurant (Barbaros
Mahallesi, Hesapci
Sokak, tel: 0242 244
8530) Fine dining
in a traditional and
romantic old Antalya
setting. The menu
provides local, Italian
and international
fl avours, and there’s
a fi ne wine list. Try the
fried ice cream.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Piano
Bar (Divan Talya Hotel,
30 Fevzi Çakmak
Caddesi, tel: 0242
248 6800) Cocktails
are served against the
spectacular backdrop
of the Beydagı
mountains. Relax
to soothing music
with a drink.
LATE & LIVELY
Indigo’s Pub (Ramada
Plaza, 22 Fevzi Çakmak
Caddesi, tel: 0242 249
1111) On Wednesday
and Thursday nights
this is the only place
to hear good jazz and
blues. If you’re into
oldies, the band will
stir your memories
and heartstrings on
weekend nights.
THIS MONTH
GO A visit to Antalya
must include a
Turkish bath, and Sefa
Hamam is an ancient
institution bearing
traces of Roman and
Selçuk architecture
(32 Barbaros
Mahallesi, Kocatepe
Sokak, Kaleiçi).
NO WAY!
Antalya has the fastest
growing population in
Turkey: in 1927, it was
17,000; now, it’s well
over a million.
Jon Stigner
Asturias
Spain
DIALLING CODE +34
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Geneva, Lisbon,
London (STN)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
The fare to Oviedo is
about €53, Gijón €45
and Avilés €23.
The Express bus
runs hourly from
6am–11pm to Oviedo
and Gijón. Tickets:
€7.50. There are
less frequent buses
to Avilés (alsa.es).
Tickets: €1.40.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
Gepetto (22 San
Bernardo, Gijón, tel:
985 351 109) This
buzzing, cosy pizzaand-pasta
place just
off the atmospheric
Plaza Mayor serves
excellent Italian
staples with panache.
EXCLUSIVE Casa
Maravilla (Ferrero,
tel: 985 878 046) If
you fancy splitting
a seafood paella
in a small, cliff top
restaurant while
enjoying the sea view,
Casa Maravilla is
for you. As its name
suggests, the food
and the setting are
marvellous. Splurge
on seafood and fi sh to
your heart’s content.
Rice with lobster is the
speciality. In winter it’s
only open for lunch at
the weekends.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Carpe
Diem (22 San
Bernardo, Avilés, tel:
984 831 715) Trendy,
busy wine bar in
the centre of town
off ering one of the
best selections of
wines in Asturias, with
free tapas to boot.
LATE & LIVELY
Gato Tuerto (1 Nicanor
Piñole, tel: 985 341
544) This chill-out
bar in central Gijón
becomes a stylish club
for thirtysomethings
when the sun goes
down, off ering cool
music, cocktails
and dancing.
THIS MONTH
GO Paseo y Jardines
de Begoña, Gijón is a
busy central square
lined with restaurants,
cafés and bars and
home to the Jovellanos
Theatre. The adjacent
square hosts the
attractive San
Lorenzo church.
NO WAY!
Not only does Asturias
provide the perfect
habitat for the brown
bear, a unique species
of fallow deer, golden
eagles and more, it’s
also home to a special
breed of mountain
pony, the Asturcon.
Karen Thomas

T H E W O R L D O F P E R S O N A L N U M B E R P L A T E S
AN I
£250,000
I BN
£150,000
CL I
£250,000
CO I
£175,000
I CT
£150,000
EK I
£250,000
I EL
£150,000
GL I
£350,000
GY I
£175,000
I HD
£225,000
I HE
£150,000
HH I
£250,000
I HL
£150,000
I HP
£150,000
HR I
£250,000
IT I
£350,000
I JEA
£34,995
I KG
£199,995
I KMW
£39,995
KR I
£250,000
KY I
£250,000
LE I
£250,000
I LEA
£29,995
LF I
£250,000
LK I
£250,000
LO I
£175,000
I NJ
£150,000
I NN
£150,000
I RK
£150,000
I RO
£150,000
ROE I
£49,995
ROY I
£149,995
I SB
£250,000
I SEC
£34,995
I SN
£175,000
TN I
£250,000
I VA
£150,000
I VD
£150,000
VE I
£150,000
VP I
£175,000
VS I
£275,000
WC I
£295,000
I WE
£160,000
WJB I
£34,995
WR I
£275,000
WS I
£250,000
Regtransfers.co.uk
PERSONAL NUMBER PLATES
Your House in the heart of Tuscany
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Immersed in the countryside of the Tuscan Maremma, near Scansano, Borgo Case Bardi is a residential
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the houses are made of stone, with exposed wooden beams, gardens and private parking. Th e magnifi cent
view looks out to the sea. Sales are direct to our customers without brokerage costs.
Immerso nella campagna della Maremma toscana, nei pressi di Scansano, Borgo Case Bardi e' un
complesso residenziale composta da appartamenti e casali di pregio interamente ricostruiti o ristrutturati
rispettando il tipico stile toscano. Tutte le abitazioni sono in pietra, con travi in legno a vista, giardini e posti
auto privati. La magnifi ca vista arriva fi no al mare. La vendita e' diretta senza costi di intermediazione.
Contatti | Tel: +39 06 3236885 / + 39 335 6390909 | E: case.bardi@yahoo.it | W: www.casebardi.it

More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
Athens
Greece
DIALLING CODE +30
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Berlin, Edinburgh,
Geneva, London
(LGW), Manchester,
Milan (MXP), Paris
(ORY), Rome
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €35.
Proastiako
and Metro line
trains service the city.
Tickets: €8 single.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
Oinopoleion (12A
Aeschylou Street,
Psyrri) Classic taverna
and wine shop with
inexpensive dishes
and a handy location
near the city centre.
Highlights include the
handmade pasta and
the house wine.
EXCLUSIVE
Aleria (57 Megalou
Alexandrou Street,
Metaxourgio, tel:
210 522 2633) Dine
on refi ned food
at Aleria, which
won a 2011 Greek
cuisine award. The
restaurant is housed
in a neoclassical
townhouse decked
out with works of art.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Zoo Cafe
(43 Zoodochou Pigis
Street, Halandri) One
of Athens’ best-kept
secrets, Zoo is what
everyone wished their
local could be. Warm
and friendly, with
great music and good
booze, and usually
packed with people
eff ortlessly having a
good time. Well worth
a weekend visit.
LATE & LIVELY
Tribeca (46 Skoufa
Street & Omirou,
Kolonaki) A café-bar
in upmarket Kolonaki
that likes to stay up
late and packs in a
lively crowd, playing
a medley of favourite
hits from every decade.
THIS MONTH
SEE The exhibition
Made in Britain,
featuring art from
the British Council
collection (including
works by Arnatt,
Chadwick, Doig, Gilbert
& George, Damien
Hirst, and others), is
on show at the Benaki
Musem (benaki.gr).
NO WAY!
Greeks call March
the “skinner and
stake-burner” month,
and tradition holds
that children must be
protected from the
biting sun by wearing
bracelets of red and
white called martis.
Eva Webster
Barcelona
Spain
DIALLING CODE +34
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Amsterdam,
Basel-Mulhouse,
Belfast (BFS), Berlin,
Bristol, Dortmund,
Geneva, Lisbon,
Liverpool, London
(LGW, LTN, SEN,
STN), Lyon, Milan
(MXP), Newcastle, Nice
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €30.
Trains service the
Sants Estació.
Tickets: €2.50.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15 Federal
Cafe (39 Carrer
Parlament, tel: 93 187
3607) A relatively new
joint in Sant Antoni,
Federal Cafe is light,
spacious and modern
with friendly staff . Two
Aussies are behind the
venture and the likes
of scrambled eggs
with chorizo and steak
sandwiches make for
a perfect lunch.
UP TO €30 Tapeo
Anem de Tapes (29
Carrer Montcada, tel:
93 310 1607) What
looks like a pretentious
wine bar turns out
to be an upmarket
taperia where classics
are served with a twist,
such as honey-glazed
ribs and chocolate
mousse with salt.
Scores extra points
for the Russian salad
made to resemble
La Sagrada Familia!
UP TO €50 La Rosi
(168 Carrer Valencia,
tel: 93 533 9444) Eight
three-course menus
to choose from at
this highly regarded
Spanish-Catalan
restaurant in Eixample,
all of which cost around
€30 and include a
drink. Croquettes
followed by grilled
butifarra (succulent
sausage) and then
lemon sorbet won’t
leave you hungry.
EXCLUSIVE
Speakeasy (162
Aribau, tel: 93 217
5080) Speakeasy is a
clandestine restaurant
in the back room of the
famous Dry Martini
ACTA ATRIUM
PALACE
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
In downtown Placa
Catalunya, this
modern hotel in a
neoclassical building,
has wooden fl oors
and great views.
From €120, book at
hotels.easyJet.com.
DESTINATION GUIDES | 109
cocktail bar. Beckon
over one of the smartly
dressed members
of staff to order your
Chateaubriand steak
with avocado, mango
and wasabi sauce.
Afterwards, retire to the
bar and order a vodka
martini served through
a Venus Flytrap plant.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY BJ 100
(36 Carrer de Joaquin
Costa, tel: 93 301
4763) If feeling like a
local is high on your
agenda, then sit back
and swig a few cañas at
this unremarkable yet
inherently charismatic
neighbourhood bar.
The beers are cheap,
the patatas bravas
tasty and the studenty
crowd noisy.
LIVE MUSIC
Le Kasbah (1 Placa
Pau Vila, tel: 93 238
0722) Just behind
the Palau de Mar, this
Asian-themed hotspot
packs plenty of
cultural diversity into
its weekly programme.
Drop by for free salsa
lessons, live bands,
Brazilian nights,
and Jam and Tonic
sessions (Sundays).
LATE & LIVELY
Sala BeCool (5 Placa
Joan Llongueras, tel: 93
362 0413) Despite the
naff name, Sala BeCool
is in fact pretty hip...
a rotating dancefl oor
provides the DJs with
fresh views as they dish
out techno, minimal
and obscure niches
of house to a young
crowd. Upstairs, there’s
a fl oor of indie pop.
THIS MONTH
SHOP In this huge
furniture bazaar housed
in an old warehouse,
interior decor freaks will
feel like they’ve reached
the Promised Land as
they browse through
stacks of chrome
chairs, tables and sofas,
restaurant fi ttings and
theatre props (Muebles
RAM, 164 Cartagena).
SEE Sophisticated
puppetry for adults
and kids is on show at
Poble Espanyol this
year as part of the TOT
festival, which runs
from 16–25 March
(poble-espanyol.com).
GO As the weather
improves Parc de la
Ciutadella provides the
perfect spring retreat.
As well as plenty of
green space, the park
is home to Barcelona
Zoo, a boating lake,
the Castle of Three
Dragons museum and
ping pong tables.
ESCAPE March is
the perfect time to
visit Figueres, home
of the Salvador Dali
Theatre Museum.
Fans of the surrealist
movement won’t
regret the two-hour
train journey
(salvador-dali.org).
NO WAY!
March signals the
end of calcots season,
so grab some of the
leek-like onions while
you can. Many locals
make pilgrimages
(calcotadas) to nearby
villages to barbecue
them en masse.
Duncan Rhodes,
Barcelona-life.com

110 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
Bari
Italy
DIALLING CODE +39
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
London (LGW),
Milan (MXP)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €25.
Route 16 goes
to the centre.
Tickets: €0.77.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT:
UP TO €30 Osteria
del Gambero (8
Corso Antonio de
Tullio, tel: 080 521
6018) Situated right
on the coastline with
fantastic views of
Bari, this quiet little
restaurant is a perfect
Bari experience. Its
specialities are the
top-notch fi sh dishes,
which range from basic
stews and pastas to
the grander sea bass
and lobster recipes.
EXCLUSIVE La
Locanda di Federico
(63 Piazza Mercantile,
tel: 080 522 7705) An
elegant medievalstyle
restaurant with
friendly service and
a good menu of the
best simple dishes in
Puglia. The antipasti is
good and the wine list
is superb.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Caff é
Mozart (9 Via Ciasca
Cardinale Agostino)
Good for an evening
mid-walk coff ee and
cake, before dining
in the surrounding
restaurants or drinking
in one of the lively,
neighbouring bars.
LATE & LIVELY
Nordwind Discopub
(18 Via P Giannone,
tel: 080 558 0028) A
fun, laidback nightclub
with a strong
international clientèle.
Good fun, but pop
by to check the
somewhat erratic
opening hours fi rst.
THIS MONTH
GO Castle Svevo
has long been the
principle site of the
town’s castle, in
fact, since Bari was
founded. Several
castles have stood
upon this spot from
Roman forts and
Norman strongholds
to the current 15–16th
century Spanish
palazzo. It’s very
much worth a visit.
NO WAY!
Bari was originally
Greek. However, over
millenia the local
dialect has faded
and very few Italians
can speak it. Only
long-time Barese
families and old Greek
fi shermen speak it
in the area.
Max Keep
Basel/
Mulhouse/
Freiburg
Switzerland
DIALLING CODE +41
CURRENCY CHF
FLY FROM
Alicante,
Amsterdam, Barcelona,
Berlin, Bordeaux,
Cagliari, Copenhagen,
Corsica (Ajaccio),
Dresden, Düsseldorf,
Edinburgh, Faro,
Fuerteventura, Gran
Canaria, Hamburg,
Ibiza, Istanbul, Lisbon,
London (LGW),
Madrid, Majorca,
Málaga, Marrakech,
Nantes, Naples, Nice,
Olbia, Rome, Porto,
Pristina, Split, Tel Aviv,
Tenerife, Thessaloniki,
Toulouse, Venice
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your
taxi at easyJet.
com. The fare to Basel
is about CHF40 and
Mulhouse €40.
Route 50 takes
you to Basel’s
main train station.
Tickets: CHF3.80.
In France,
shuttles go to the
station in Saint-Louis
for trains to Mulhouse.
Tickets: €1.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15 Soup
(10 Fischmarkt) Soup’s
second location in
Basel off ers the same
great-tasting, healthy
and inexpensive soups
and salads as the
original, but without
the elbow-jostling
crowds. There’s also an
enclosed terrace.
UP TO €30
Restaurant
Haltestelle (5
Gempenstrasse, Basel,
tel: 06 1333 2541)
Situated at the back
(southern) entrance
to the train station,
Haltestelle serves tasty
Italian food and has a
local microbrew on tap.
Closed on weekends.
UP TO €50 Hotel
Parc Le Steinbach
(26 Rue de la Sinne,
Mulhouse, tel: 03
8966 1222) The
stunning, art-deco
dining room is the
perfect locale for the
elegant Alsatian food
that’s more modern
than that off ered by
other restaurants in
town. The bar off ers
half-priced happy hour
drinks until 8pm.
EXCLUSIVE La
Maison des Têtes
(19 Rue des Têtes,
Colmar, tel: 03 8924
4343) This elegant
restaurant, housed
in a spectacular
17th-century house,
is one of Colmar’s
fi nest, serving Alsatian
specialities such as
homemade foie gras
and roasted duck.
Find it next to the
Unterlinden Museum,
which is worth
popping in to fi rst
to work up a bit of
an appetite.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY
Kunsthallen Bar
(7 Steinenberg,
tel: 06 1272 4233)
Located one fl oor up
in the Kunsthalle, this
spacious designer bar
with lovely high ceilings
is a great place to meet
for cocktails before or
after the theatre.
LIVE MUSIC
Volkshaus (12
Rebgasse) With
everything from jazz
to mountaineering
slideshows to dirty rock
concerts, Volkshaus
is a cultural hotspot in
Lesser Basel.
LATE & LIVELY
Le Valentino (14 Rue
du Tunnel, Mulhouse)
The disco lights and
mirrors might seem
more suited to a
casino, but Le Valentino
– for ages 25 and up
– is about as festive as
Mulhouse gets.
THIS MONTH
SHOP For Art
sells clothing
LAUSANNE
ESCAPE Lausanne
on Lake Geneva,
two hours by train
from Basel, is the
home of the Olympic
Museum. Highlights
include sculptures
as well as
audiovisual exhibits.
christopherward.co.uk
and accessories
from various local
designers, with a
rotating selection
changing every two
to three months
(50 Spalenberg).
SEE Visitors
interested in medieval
Basel shouldn’t miss
the small Museum
Kleines Klingental, on
the banks of the Rhine
in Lesser Basel. Set
in an old convent, the
museum’s highlights
are the building itself
and sculptures saved
from weather damage
off the Basel Minster.
GO Basel’s newly
car-free Munsterplatz
is the location not
only of the red-stone
cathedral, begun in
the 11th century, but is
also the location of a
couple of the city’s best
museums, the Natural
History Museum and
the Museum of Culture.
The Munsterplatz is
also the best place to
get a view down the
Rhine to the Black
Forest beyond.
NO WAY!
In 1792, as news of
the French Revolution
stirred discontent in
the countryside around
Basel, several towns
left Switzerland and
formed the Rauracian
Republic with parts
of neighbouring
France. This “daughter
republic” of France
lasted only three
months before
dissolving back
into France
and Switzerland.
Richard Harvell

29.1. –
13.5.2012
PIERRE
BONNARD
FONDATION BEYELER
FOLLOW US: WWW.FONDATIONBEYELER.CH WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/FONDATIONBEYELER
explore the city and enjoy the urban life of Berlin.
Style and quality, with subtle elegance and perfect
service, await the guests within the listed building
from the olden wenes, and the atmosphere is
quite something. The 285 rooms of the design-hotel
oer a variety of accommodaon, from modern single/
double rooms to eecuve suites and the tower suites
with their spectacular views over the roofs of Berlin.
Other highlights include the entertainment suite and
the restaurant , with its internaonal crossovercuisine
and open show kitchen, the lounge area and
the interior courtyard, perfect for whiling away the
hours in pleasant weather.
ELLINGTON HOTEL BERLIN
Nürnberger Strasse 50-55 | 10789 Berlin
T. +49(0)30/6831-50 | E. contact@ellington-hotel.com
www.ellington-hotel.com

112 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
Belfast
UK
DIALLING CODE +44
CURRENCY £
FLY FROM
Alicante,
Amsterdam,
Barcelona, Bristol,
Edinburgh, Faro,
Geneva, Glasgow, Ibiza,
Krakow, Liverpool,
London (LGW, LTN,
STN, SEN), Málaga,
Malta, Manchester,
Newcastle, Majorca,
Nice, Paris (CDG)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs £25.
Translink run a
service to the
centre. Tickets: £7
single; £10 return.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15
Boojum (73 Botanic
Avenue, tel: 028 9031
5334) This Mexican
restaurant is a great
place to grab a quick
bite to eat. The food
is fresh and the decor
funky. There are two
restaurants in the city,
one in the University
area and one close to
City Hall. You may need
to queue at lunchtimes
– always a good sign.
UP TO €30 Made
In Belfast (Wellington
Street, tel: 028 9024
6712) Located in the
happening Cathedral
Quarter, this trendy
restaurant is the
perfect place to go with
a group of friends. The
restaurant is decorated
with lots of quirky bits
of furniture and the
food has a decidedly
local slant. Good for
lunch or dinner.
UP TO €50 The
Ivory Belfast (Victoria
Square Shopping
Centre, tel: 028 9032
4577) Situated on
the top fl oor of the
department store
House of Fraser,
this restaurant has
fantastic views from
its balcony area.
The menu is mainly
modern Mediterranean
in fl avour and the staff
are super-friendly.
EXCLUSIVE
Molly’s Yard (1
College Green Mews,
Botanic Avenue, tel:
028 9032 2600) This
cosy restaurant is a
real fi nd. It’s housed
in a former Victorian
stables and serves
modern Irish cuisine.
The beer comes from
the nearby Hilden
Brewery, try a pint of
Belfast Blonde. In this
age of identical chain
restaurants, this place
has genuine charm.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Kelly’s
Cellars (30 Bank
Street, tel: 028 9024
6058) Kelly’s is one
of the oldest and
most historic pubs in
Ireland. It’s full of local
character and serves a
mean pint of Guinness.
You might even be
lucky enough to catch
an Irish traditional
music session. If you
fancy a spot of lunch,
the Irish stew is also to
be recommended.
LIVE MUSIC
Limelight (17 Ormeau
Avenue, tel: 028 9032
5968) For nearly 20
years now, this gutsy
rock venue has played
host to some of the
best bands around. It’s
also a great place to
catch up-and-coming
bands. Blur, Oasis and
the Happy Mondays all
played early gigs here.
LATE & LIVELY
The Eglantine Inn
(Malone Road, tel: 028
9038 1994) Known
locally as “the Egg”,
this legendary bar is
a great place to head
any night of the week.
The bar is spread
over two fl oors, which
means there’s usually
lots of room to boogie.
ADELPHI
PORTRUSH
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
A family-run,
four-star hotel,
the Adelphi is in
Portrush and off ers
a great breakfast, as
well as a health suite.
From €79, book at
hotels.easyJet.com.
THIS MONTH
SHOP St George’s
Market, an old
Victorian market, was
nearly lost to the city,
but thankfully it was
saved and it is now a
thriving market on the
weekend. If you are in
the mood for cheeses
or local crafts, then
this is the place.
SEE Over the last
few years, St Patrick’s
Day celebrations have
begun to gain a bit of
momentum in the city.
Check out the free
concert in Custom
House Square, then
go on a tour of some
of the bars in the city
centre. Many will have
live traditional music.
GO If you feel like a
bit of sea air, then we
recommend a quick
trip to the delightful
seaside-commuter
town of Holywood. It’s
packed with trendy
restaurants and bars.
ESCAPE An hour’s
drive from Belfast,
the picturesque town
of Rostrevor feels
like a world away.
It’s on the shores
of the breathtaking
Carlingford Lough and
close to the majestic
Mourne Mountains.
Perfect if you’re into
mountain biking,
hiking or watersports.
NO WAY!
Belfast’s Sirocco
works invented air
conditioning and the
Royal Victoria Hospital
was the fi rst building
in to be fi tted with it.
Chris Sherry/
Ulster Tatler
Berlin
Germany
DIALLING CODE +49
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Agadir,
Amsterdam, Athens,
Barcelona, Basel-
Mulhouse, Bristol,
Brussels, Budapest,
Cagliari, Copenhagen,
Corfu, Crete
(Heraklion), Dubrovnik,
Geneva, Glasgow, Ibiza,
Lisbon, Liverpool,
London (LGW, LTN),
Lyon, Madrid, Majorca,
Málaga, Manchester,
Milan (MXP), Mykonos,
Naples, Nice, Olbia,
Paris (ORY), Pisa,
Rhodes, Rome,
Split, Tenerife,
Thessaloniki, Venice
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €35.
Express route
SXF1 runs to
Berlin Südkreuz.
Tickets: €6.
Catch the S-Bahn
or the Airport
Express. Tickets: €3.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15
Barcomi’s Deli (21
Sophienstrasse) This
popular café-deli
smack in the middle
of the gallery district
is perfect for a quick
lunch. Try the bagel and
lox, rounded off with
some house-roasted
coff ee and Americanstyle
carrot cake.
UP TO €30
3 Schwestern
(2 Mariannenplatz)
Housed in the left wing
of Bethanien, a former
hospital turned squatart
centre, “3 Sisters”
serves up some
delicious homely
German cooking, from
schnitzel to spätzle.
On Friday nights the
place transforms
into a massive swing
party. Hence, the
slogan: “Fine food and
primitive rock ‘n’ roll.”
UP TO €50
Nocti Vagus
Dark Restaurant
(36 Saarbrücker
Strasse, Prenzlauer
Berg, tel: 030 7474
9123) Confuse your
senses and relish
the unforgettable
experience of dining
on contemporary
Continental cuisine in
complete darkness.
EXCLUSIVE
Fischers Fritz (49
Charlottenstrasse,
Mitte, tel: 030 2033
6363) The only
restaurant in Berlin
with two Michelin
stars, Fischers Fritz in
The Regent hotel is a
gourmet’s delight. True
haute cuisine in lavish,
classical surroundings.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Das Gift
(119 Donaustrasse)
Run by a group of
friends surrounding
the Scottish band
Mogwai, Das Gift
· Reusable and specially designed for air travellers
· Relieves ear pain that occurs during take-off and landing
· Allows headphones and surrounding sounds through
· Washable hypoallergenic soft silicon for long term comfort
· eJ Special: 1 x Small, 1 x Standard for £6.99
· eJ Discount code: OMGRM20
Scan QR code for web link!

The 11th City of Derry
JAZZ & BIG BAND FESTIVAL
Thursday 3rd May – Monday 7th May 2012
With over 200 events experience one of
the biggest, coolest Jazz Festivals in Europe!
Your Y
chance to
win a VIP trip to
The 11th City of Derry
JAZZ & BIG BAND FESTIVAL
Now a staple event on the international jazz festival
circuit and one of the biggest events on the Irish
cultural calendar the festival attracts the biggest
names in Jazz including in 2012 Van Morrison and
Ruby Turner and showcases amazing local talent
from the UK City of Culture 2013.
For your chance to win a VIP trip visit
www.cityofderryjazzfestival.com

114 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
Berlin
Germany
(the name means
“The Poison”) is an
easygoing pub with a
good whisky selection.
Find it in Neukölln, a
part of Berlin getting
hipper by the day.
LIVE MUSIC
Quasimodo
(12 Kanstrasse,
Charlottenburg, tel:
030 312 8086) West
Berlin’s most venerable
live music club, located
in the basement of the
Delphi cinema, books
great indie, rock and
jazz acts.
LATE & LIVELY
Barbie Deinhoff (16
Schlesische Strasse)
This funky all-night
watering hole off ers
fun and frolics for gay
and straight clientèle
alike. Its famous threehour
happy hour runs
from 6pm Monday to
Friday, and from 4pm
at the weekend.
THIS MONTH
SHOP The sprawling
Modulor is a sort of
department store for
creative types, which
sells everything from
pieces of foam to fabric
to spray paint. The new
building on Moritzplatz
also houses book,
cookware and design
shops – plus a couple
of trendy places for
lunch and coff ee
(85 Prinzenstrasse,
modulor.de).
SEE David Bowie has
cult status in Berlin.
Not long after arriving
in West Berlin in 1977,
Bowie recorded three
THE MOST FAMOUS
IRISH PUB IN BERLIN
albums there. You can
now visit the legendary
Hansa Studios where
he (as well as Iggy Pop
and U2) worked. Fritz
Musictours Berlin,
by appointment
(tel: 030 3087 5633).
GO MärzMusik is
one of Europe’s most
innovative festivals
for new music. The
2012 edition will be
themed around the
groundbreaking
composer John Cage,
in celebration of the
100th anniversary
of his birth. From
17–25 March
(berlinerfestspiele.de).
ESCAPE As the Euro
currency seems to be
under threat, it could
be good to visit the
Museum of European
Cultures in the suburb
of Dahlem. The
Museum was recently
re-opened after
extensive renovations
and hosts an incredible
collection of 275,000
unusual objects from
around the continent,
from a 100 year-old
Venetian gondola to a
bizarre assortment of
1990s souvenir joke
towels (25 Arnimallee,
smb.museum).
NO WAY!
An estimated 10,000
containers dot the
streets of Berlin waiting
for people to donate
their old clothes and
shoes. Most bear
stickers asking for
donations, but in reality
most of the proceeds
go to large private
clothing dealers.
exberliner.com
Biarritz
France
DIALLING CODE +33
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
London (LGW),
Lyon, Paris (CDG)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €15.
The STAB runs
hourly from
7.30am–7.30pm.
Tickets: €1.50.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Chez
Albert (Allée Port des
Pêcheurs, tel: 05 5924
4384) One of the
city’s most popular
seafood restaurants,
overlooking the port.
Expect freshly caught
fi sh, shellfi sh and
other seafood and
a selection of fi ne
wines. Open until
11pm at weekends.
EXCLUSIVE
Sissinou (5 Avenue du
Maréchal Foch, tel: 05
5922 5150) Delicious,
seasonal cuisine is on
the menu at Sissinou.
Try the wild mushroom
ravioli, but make
sure you leave
room for one of the
indulgent desserts.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY
Pâtisserie Miremont
(1 Place Clémenceau,
tel: 05 5924 0138)
Open for more than
100 years, this is a
wonderful place to
drop in for an earlyevening
tea or coff ee
with cake. Exquisite
sweets and pastries
and spectacular views
of the Atlantic are
what’s on off er here.
LATE & LIVELY
Le Bar Jean (5 Rue
des Halles, tel: 05
5924 8038) A very
busy bar frequented
by a lively crowd of
locals drinking sangria
and cocktails until the
early hours. Come
along and join in the
fun. Gets crowded at
the weekend.
THIS MONTH
SEE See fi ne
examples of oriental
art and sculpture
from China, Nepal
and India at the
Museum of Asian Art.
Open every afternoon
from 2pm to 7pm
(1 Rue Guy Petit,
tel: 05 5922 7879,
museeasiatica.com).
NO WAY!
Rich English tourists
have been visiting
Biarritz since 1855,
when Napoleon and
his wife Eugenie
started spending
their summers there,
attracting important
VIPs like the King
of Belgium, the
Queen of Spain
and Bismarck.
Steve Bilsborough
Bilbao
Spain
DIALLING CODE +34
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Ibiza, Geneva,
London (STN), Madrid,
Manchester, Rome
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €35.
Buses leave every
30 minutes.
Tickets: €1.50.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
Restaurante Kasko
Berri (47 Alameda
San Mamés, tel: 94
NO WAY!
The Torre Iberdrola
is Bilbao’s latest
controversy.
The 165m glass
construction towers
above the city. Some
applaud it, others
claim it shouldn’t
have been built.
410 6231) Kasko Berri
serves a good set
lunch. In the evening,
the à-la-carte menu
keeps the loyal clientèle
coming back for more.
EXCLUSIVE
Restaurante Kirol
(28 Calle Ercilla,
tel: 94 443 7011) A
classy restaurant
in the centre of the
city. Expect top-class
Basque cuisine with
quality Spanish and
international wines to
accompany your meal.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Botxo
Kafe (2 Plaza
Santos Juanes, tel:
94 415 6147) This
popular café, bar and
restaurant has been
a favourite with locals
for years. Pop in and
enjoy a coff ee in the
morning, good food at
lunch, or a drink.
LATE & LIVELY
Brick (29 Calle Elcano,
tel: 94 444 8970)
Eighties music, a
friendly atmosphere,
an interesting cocktail
menu and a good
choice of food make
this venue popular
with a thirtysomething
crowd. Open till 4am
at weekends.
THIS MONTH
SEE Go to the Arriaga
Theatre to watch
one of Bilbao’s most
emblematic cabaret
rock bands, Doctor
Deseo, present their
13th album. For
two nights only on
21 and 22 March
(teatroarriaga.com).
Katherine Bilsborough

116 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
Birmingham
UK
DIALLING CODE +44
CURRENCY £
FLY FROM
Geneva, Grenoble
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs £20.
Trains leave
every 10 minutes
for the centre. Tickets:
£3.10 single.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Annexe
Restaurant & Bar
(220 Corporation
Street, tel: 0121 236
1171) Discover a slice
of vintage Parisian café
culture in the heart of
the city. Dark polished
woods, smooth service
and faultless cooking
come together to
make Annexe one of
Birmingham’s premier
dining spots. Côte de
Boeuf is a highlight.
EXCLUSIVE
Carters of Moseley
(2C Wakegreen Road,
tel: 0121 449 8885)
First-rate British
produce served with
imagination and
fl air are at the heart
of this restaurant’s
success. Then,
there’s the elegant
and contemporary
dining room, with its
TRAVELLER
Wonderland
With its hot springs and icy fj ords, there’s nowhere
quite like Iceland. Are you ready for the adventure?
How Spain went crazy
for gin and tonic
18 reasons to visit
Zagreb in 2012
Sun, sand and serious
culture in Malta
Tel Aviv’s coolest
new art district
MARCH 2012
*YOUR FREE COPY TO
TAKE AWAY WITH YOU
001_ej_Cover 01.indd 1 10/02/2012 14:44
muted browns and
smooth service. A
well-balanced wine list
complements the food.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY The
Barntons Arms (144
High Street, Aston, tel:
0121 333 5988) Built
in 1901, The Barntons
Arms rewards those
who seek it out with
one of the fi nest
examples of an old
Victorian pub. Then,
there are its real ales
and excellent Thai food.
LATE & LIVELY
Oceana (1–5 Hurst
Street, tel: 0845 402
5390) Two main club
rooms and eight
themed bars make
for a varied and lively
night out. This huge
venue tends to attract
a student crowd.
NO WAY!
Centenary Square’s
plaza, has more than
half a million bricks,
laid by hand no less!
Jenny McKelvie
BOURNVILLE
GO Visit the
Cadbury heartland of
Bournville, where you
can visit a medieval
dwelling. Cadbury
World is the place
to learn all about
chocolate and stock
up on Easter eggs.
Bologna
Italy
DIALLING CODE +39
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
London (LGW),
Paris (CDG)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €20
The Aerobus
runs from 6am
to midnight. Tickets:
€6 single.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
Centronatura (6 Via
degli Albari) This vegan
self-service restaurant
is part of a wellness
complex where the
emphasis rests fi rmly
on the natural. The
menu includes
plenty of interesting
veggie dishes and
nourishing soups.
EXCLUSIVE
La Corte Galluzzi
(7 Corte de’ Galluzzi,
tel: 051 226 481)
One of the city’s
characteristic medieval
towers provides a
magnifi cent setting for
this trattoria serving
delicious Bolognese
specialities. Terrace
tables in the tiny,
picturesque square
are ideal for al fresco
dining on warmer days.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Dragon
Pub (16 Viale della
Repubblica, tel: 051
516 022) There’s a
warm and friendly
atmosphere at this
traditional British pub.
Come to mix with the
locals, enjoy great
beers and – why not –
a game of darts.
LATE & LIVELY
Numa (9 Via Maserati,
tel: 051 363 591)
Formerly known as
Ruvido, this is one of
the city’s best-loved
clubs. International
DJs lead the fun on
Friday and Saturday
nights from around
midnight. Arrive earlier
to dine here, too.
THIS MONTH
SEE While Cosmoprof
– Italy’s top beauty
event – is on, Bologna
takes on an extra
glossy sheen, fi lling
up with models and
beauty professionals
from all over the
world. Join them at
the exhibition centre
to discover the latest
trends (9–12 March,
cosmoprof.com).
NO WAY!
Bologna’s Cineteca is
a mine of information
for cinema buff s.
Events, showings
and documents
are available to the
curious, including the
fascinating Charlie
Chaplin Archive, which
holds a collection
of paraphernalia
pertaining to the actor,
including 7,856 letters.
Sarah Lane
Bordeaux
France
DIALLING CODE +33
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Basel-Mulhouse,
Bristol, Geneva,
Lisbon, Liverpool,
London (LGW, LTN),
Lyon, Madrid, Milan
(MXP), Nice
FROM THE
AIRPORT
If you want to continue to read this magazine
and cannot take it with you, visit
traveller.‰.com
.com
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €35.
A bus service
runs to Place des
Quinconces every 20
minutes. Tickets: €1.40
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Le
Bistrot du Fromager
(73 Quai des
Chartrons, tel: 05
5698 1708) Former
rugby player Eric
Lucmaret shares his
passion for cheese in
this recent arrival on
the quays. The menu
includes charcuterie,
but the cheese plays
the starring role.
EXCLUSIVE
Brasserie l’Europe
(2–5 Place de la
Comédie, tel: 05 5730
4347) Found within the
Regent Grand Hotel,
chef Pascal Nibaudeau
has created a tempting
menu of French
classics alongside
chic, edgy dishes
here. Head along on
Sunday from 12pm till
3.30pm for brunch.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Le
Wine Bar (19 Rue
des Bahutiers, tel: 05
5648 5699) A relaxed
bar with a selection
of wines from all over
the world which also
hosts wine-and-food
matching and blind
tasting events. Italian
snacks are also served.
LATE & LIVELY
Calle Ocho (24 Rue
des Piliers de Tutelle)
Follow the locals who,
fuelled by excellent
mojitos, fl ock here to
dance to the beat
of salsa tunes.
THIS MONTH
GO Love wine?
Then the Salon des
Vins des Vignerons
Indépendants, on 9–13
March, is a must-visit.
For €6, you can sample
and buy wines from 12
French wine-producing
regions, including
Alsace, Burgundy,
Champagne and the
Rhone, as well as
Bordeaux, of course
(Parc des Expositions).
NO WAY!
A local proverb says
that for Bordeaux
wine to be good,
vines must be able
to see the masts of
the boats, but not
be so close that their
feet get wet.
Caroline Matthews
00000 EasyJet WEBSITE 10.02.11.indd 1 13/02/2012 11:51
TAXI

118 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
Bournemouth
UK
DIALLING CODE +44
CURRENCY £
FLY FROM
Geneva
FROM THE
AIRPORT
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs £16.
The A1 shuttle
bus runs to
Bournemouth’s main
square, hourly from
7am–7pm. Tickets: £5.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 The
Boathouse (The
Quay, Christchurch,
tel: 01202 480 033)
In a lovely location
overlooking the river
with a huge outdoor
terrace, this restaurant
is open for breakfast,
lunch and dinner, and
in the evening there’s a
lively bar. Food includes
tasty pizzas from the
oven (£10) and more
substantial dishes such
as moules-frites (£16).
There’s also a cosy
wood-burner if the
evenings turn cool.
EXCLUSIVE The
Crab (Park Central
Hotel, Exeter Road, tel:
01202 203 601) Some
of the best seafood
in town is on off er
in this light and airy
restaurant, with dishes
such as Bournemouth
Bay Bouillabaise (£6)
to start, followed by
local cod (£19). There’s
also a good-value
pre-theatre menu,
available before 7pm.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Bar
Ventana (The
Cumberland Hotel,
East Overcliff e Drive,
tel: 01202 556 529)
A good selection of
delicious cocktails are
on off er at this stylish
art-deco bar, high on
the cliff top. The food
is tasty, too.
LATE & LIVELY
O2 Academy (570
Christchurch Road,
Boscombe, tel: 01202
399 922) Great music,
club nights with top
DJs such as Judge
Jules, and themed
events such as retro
roller discos. Also
hosts live acts such
as Professor Green,
Rizzle Kicks
and Stereophonics.
TAXI TAXI
Ann
before
treatment
THIS MONTH
GO Get fi t for spring
in the nearby Moors
Valley Country Park,
where you can try
Nordic-walking,
willow-weaving, powerwalking,
cycling, and
even tree-climbing and
zip wires on The Go-
Ape high-wire course
(weekends only,
moors-valley.co.uk).
NO WAY!
Before Heathrow was
built, Bournemouth
had England’s only
international airport.
Matthew Hancock
Brest
France
DIALLING CODE +33
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Lyon, Paris (CDG)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €20.
Buses stop
at Saint Luc
and the city centre.
Tickets: €4.60 single.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
La Fondue des Lys
(40 Rue de Lyon,
tel: 02 9843 4277)
Fondue from all
over the world is
on the menu in this
pretty pink-and-grey
restaurant, rather
than just the Swiss
cheese sort. The
chefs have even
created the most
delicious chocolate
fondue for pudding.
EXCLUSIVE
L’Armen (21 Rue de
Lyon, tel: 02 9846
2834) The menu
changes every three
weeks but if you get
the chance, try the
fi sh dishes or the
lobster, and fi nish
off with the melting
bitter chocolate
cake – delicious!
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Le
Britt Kafe (Brest-
Bretagne Airport,
tel: 02 9884 8585)
Unlike most airport
bars, this one is a
great place for
a crêpe and a Breton
cider while you’re
waiting to meet
arrivals or board
a fl ight. It has leather
sofas and a great
view of the runway.
LATE & LIVELY
La Gentilhommiere
(33 Avenue Georges
Clemenceau, tel: 02
9843 6819) This is
a great student
haunt; relaxed,
friendly and easy
on the pocket. The
music is Euro poprock
and there’s
a DJ on Saturdays.
A good place to
meet people.
THIS MONTH
SEE The Salon du
Jeu (The Games
Expo) runs from 23
to 25 March and will
cover everything
from Cluedo to the
latest video games
on off er this spring.
Whether classic or
brand-new, if games
are your thing, this
is the place to come.
NO WAY!
It has stood on the
dockside in Brest for
182 years, but now
the Algerians want
their iconic Canon
of Algiers back.
Samantha David
Brindisi
Italy
DIALLING CODE +39
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Geneva, Milan
(MXP), Paris (ORY)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €20.
STP buses leave
every 30 minutes.
Tickets: €0.80.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
Braceria Escosazio
(15 Piazza Mercato,
tel: 0831 563 971) An
interesting experience
will be had in this
restaurant, where you
pick out the food and
HOTEL
MINERVA
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
Sat among three
hectares of land,
the Minerva’s
simple rooms are
complimented by
two glistening pools.
From €74, book at
hotels.easyJet.com.
watch the chef cook it.
Try the gnummeriddu
(liver wrapped in
goat’s intestines).
EXCLUSIVE
Donna Gina (5–9 Via
Cala Porto, tel: 080 424
0914) If the weather is
warm enough insist on
an outside table as the
view is stunning. This
restaurant is one of
the fi nest around.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Caff è
Cavour (5 Corso
Cavour, Ostuni, tel:
0831 301 709) Carved
in to the bedrock, this
classy bar is warm
and inviting and has a
good kitchen pumping
out excellent snacks
to eat alongside
your cocktails.
LATE & LIVELY
Goldini (Piazza
Dante) A cosy little
pub where they
sometimes have live
music. Worth sticking
your head round the
door on a weekend to
see what’s going on.
THIS MONTH
GO See the famous
trulli houses, a unique
dwelling to Puglia.
It’s origins are from
pre-Roman era Greek
Messapic huts. Still
being used virtually
unchanged today,
they are a constant
reminder, and a
connection to, the past.
NO WAY!
Rudolph Valentino, one
of history’s greatest
sex symbols, was born
in Castellaneta, Puglia.
Max Keep
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SINGELBERG CLINIC
A combination of a private clinic
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cosmetic surgery or treatment abroad for people
seeking to attain their dream at affordable prices
( - 50% compared to UK costs).
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op rated according to independent reatmentabroad.com
DOLMEN
Dolmen Resort Hotels is a new hotel group
in Salento combining architectural heritage,
culture and cuisine.
2 of the current active facilities include Perla
Hotel, Casalabate Lecce, located in the
Mediterranean coast of Salento and Hotel
A Due Passi dal Pizzo Gallipoli, located on
the coastal belt of the Ionian Sea; both
high-impact holidays.
Contact us:
E-mail: booking@dolmenresorthotels.it
Tel: +39.0832.389140 | www.dolmenresorthotels.it

120 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
Bristol
UK
DIALLING CODE +44
CURRENCY £
FLY FROM
Alicante,
Amsterdam,
Barcelona, Belfast
(BFS), Berlin, Bodrum,
Bordeaux, Corfu,
Crete (Heraklion),
Cyprus (Paphos),
Dalaman, Edinburgh,
Faro, Fuerteventura,
Geneva, Glasgow,
Grenoble, Ibiza,
Innsbruck, Inverness,
Krakow, La Rochelle,
Lisbon, Lyon, Madeira,
Madrid, Majorca,
Málaga, Marseille,
Menorca, Murcia,
Naples, Newcastle,
Nice, Olbia, Paris
(CDG), Pisa, Prague,
Rome, Salzburg, Split,
Tenerife, Toulouse
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs £30.
The Bristol
Airport Flyer
links to the city centre
daily between 02.30
and 00.45. Tickets: £7.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15
Spyglass Restaurant
(Harbourside, tel:
0117 927 2800)
Based in the heart
of Bristol’s docks,
Spyglass restaurant
brings a touch of the
Mediterranean to
the city’s Old Town.
Split between a
converted barge and
the adjacent quayside,
Spyglass serves tasty,
barbecued food.
UP TO €30 Mud
Dock Café (40 The
Grove, tel: 0117 934
9734) This unique
café and restaurant
sits above a bike shop
and overlooks Bristol’s
Harbourside. Light,
airy and rustic, Mud
Dock has become
one of Bristol’s
favourite spots.
UP TO €50
The Cowshed
(46 Whiteladies Road,
tel: 0117 973 3550)
For a taste of the
countryside in the city,
head to The Cowshed.
Here you’ll fi nd good,
simple British food
with a focus on quality
local produce. Steak
is The Cowshed’s
speciality – pick your
favourite cut, sauce
and sides.
EXCLUSIVE No.4
Restaurant (4 Rodney
Place, Clifton, tel:
0117 973 5422) Part
of the Rodney Hotel
in Clifton Village, No.4
serves an AA Rosette
award-winning French
and English menu
with produce carefully
selected from in and
around Bristol. In
a beautiful Georgian
mansion house with a
pretty secret garden.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Harveys
Cellars (12 Denmark
Street, tel: 0117 929
4812) The famous
Harveys Cellars have
recently reopened as a
stylish, contemporary
wine, sherry and
cocktail lounge, in
the former home and
birthplace of Harveys
Bristol Cream Sherry.
LIVE MUSIC O2
Academy (Frogmore
Street, tel: 0117 927
9227) Gig lovers young
and old fl ock to the O2
Academy for its varied
listings of live music
and club nights. This
month it plays host
to The Maccabees
(13 March) and
Spiritualised (21st).
LATE & LIVELY
The Woods (1 Park
Street Avenue) A
popular bar housed in
an elegant Victorian
building, The Woods
boasts a fi ne whisky
collection and a guitardriven
music policy.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Peruse the
vast range of boutique
RAMADA
HOTEL
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
In the centre of
town, this hotel’s real
selling point is its
restaurant housed in
a 17th-century glassblown
kiln. From
€67, book at
hotels.easyJet.com.
clothes and jewellery
shops in Clifton Village.
The Clifton Arcade is
a Victorian building,
which is home to a
bespoke furniture
company and antique
collectables.
SEE Interactive
science centre At-
Bristol launches its new
exhibition this month
called Our World – No
More Waste. Explore
how volcanoes and
bacteria made the air
we breathe and track
up-to-date hurricane
patterns on the
interactive globe.
GO Dating back
to the 1600s,
Christmas Steps is
the charming location
of unique shops, art
galleries, potteries
and more. Amid the
picturesque medieval
surroundings are
the seven streets
of Christmas Steps
Art Quarter.
ESCAPE Travel the
short distance east of
Bristol to the worldfamous
city of Bath.
Experience the World
Heritage Site of The
Roman Baths, visit The
Jane Austin Centre and
The Fashion Museum
and indulge at the
Thermae Bath Spa.
Before you leave, have
tea in The Pump Room.
NO WAY!
Bristol is home to
the most ambitious
permanent street-art
project ever to take
place in the UK. Head
to Nelson Street for
See No Evil.
Anna Slade
Sitting S comfortably?
Brussels
Belgium
DIALLING CODE +32
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Berlin, Geneva,
Liverpool, Lyon, Milan
(MXP), Nice, Toulouse
FROM THE
AIRPORT
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €45.
Trains depart
every 15 minutes.
Tickets: €5 single.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
Cospaïa (1 Capitaine
Crespel , tel: 02 513
0303) Close to the
fashionable Avenue
Louise, this chic
restaurant serves
fusion cuisine at very
reasonable prices. Try
the excellent-value, twocourse
lunch, which
includes crab curry or
a delicious carpaccio
of mushrooms.
UP TO €50 Les
Brasseries Georges
(220 Avenue Winston
Churchill, tel: 02 347
2100) Patronised by
the prosperous folk
of affl uent Uccle, this
very posh brasserie
is best known for its
lavish seafood platters
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and fresh oysters.
The wide terrace, with
awnings and heaters
for those chilly March
days, is often crowded,
especially for family
Sunday lunch.
EXCLUSIVE La
Villa Lorraine (75
Avenue Vivier d’Oie,
tel: 02 374 3163) This
famous Brussels
restaurant is set in
a graceful mansion
on the edge on the
Bois de la Cambre.
Make sure to dress
up for the very formal
setting, and expect top
French gastronomy
with some of the city’s
major power brokers
sharing the room.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Bar
du Marché (12 Rue
Alphonse Dewitte,
tel: 02 644 0400)
This friendly bar, with
a small dancefl oor
and cool DJs, is on
the fashionable Place
Flagey. It’s popular
among after-work
drinkers. On Sunday
evenings, jazz is on
the menu.
LIVE MUSIC
Botanique (236 Rue
Royale, tel: 02 218
3732) Botanique is
the cultural centre
of Belgium’s French
community. It’s a hub
of cutting-edge music
from jazz through rock
to dance. American
blues singer Elliott
Murphy is billed for
16 March.
LATE & LIVELY
Spirito-Martini (18
Rue de Stassart, tel:
02 502 3000) Set in a
Imagine Imagine over
5 million people looking
at your advert adver for a minimum of two hours.
Make ppart
of your plan today
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TAXI

More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
former Catholic church
complete with carved
wooden pews and with
a dancefl oor in the
vaulted nave and music
in the crypt, this is one
of the most elegant
clubs in Brussels. DJs
hold forth from the
pulpit, playing rock,
house, funk and more
to packed dancefl oors.
Popular with the young
and not so young alike,
including civil servants
and workers from the
European quarter.
THIS MONTH
SHOP The Reservoir
Shop sells arty
T-shirts, vintage
watches, slick
sneakers and the
latest limited-editon
Japanese jeans – in
short, everything
for the cutting-edge
fashionista (43A
Rue Lesbroussarts).
SEE The annual
Brussels Fine Art and
Antiques Fair takes
place from 22 March
for 10 days at Brussels
UP TO €15
Café Belga (18 Place
Eugène Flagey) Set
in the listed former
radio and TV building,
this café is popular
with the youngsters.
It has one of the
best organic
brunches in town.
Expo for one week.
In the shadow of the
Atomium and with
displays and stalls by
top dealers from all
over Europe, the fair is
the place to buy that
surprise present or
make an investment
that you can hang
on the wall (1 Place de
Belgique, tel: 02 474
8263).
GO Hit the fl ea market
in Place du Jeu de Balle
(open every day) and
browse through stalls
of pictures, furniture,
clothing and much
more. Keep your
eyes peeled and get
there early. Hone
your haggling skills,
too: dealers drive
a hard bargain.
ESCAPE Head to the
Chalet Robinson in
the Bois de la Cambre,
a lovely park in the
fashionable quarter of
Uccle. Here, on its own
island in a large lake
surrounded by the tall
trees of the ancient
forest and accessible
only by a three-minute
ferry ride, you can
have supper or just
a drink at the bar
and feel you have
left the city far
behind (1 Sentier
de l’Embarcadère).
NO WAY!
Belgium produces
220,000 tons of
chocolate per year,
an average of 22kg
per inhabitant. The
world’s biggest point
of sale for the dark,
sweet stuff is Brussels
Airport at Zaventem.
Nick Haslam
Budapest
Hungary
DIALLING CODE +36
CURRENCY Forint (HUF)
FLY FROM
Berlin, Dortmund,
Geneva, London (LGW,
LTN), Paris (ORY)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs
HUF5,100–HUF5,400.
Trains leave
Terminal 1 for
Western station.
Tickets: HUF455.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
Bagolyvár (2 Állatkerti
Utca, XIV) The “Owl’s
Castle” is the lessexpensive
sister of
the world-renowned
Gundel Restaurant
next door. It is staff ed
entirely by women
and serves ultratraditional
dishes.
EXCLUSIVE
Olimpia Étterem (2
Alpár Utca, tel: 321
2805) Put yourself in
the capable hands of
the chef and order a
surprise seven-course
tasting menu. While
some courses may
be a bit odd, the
adventurous will love
the unusual fl avour
combinations and the
excellent service.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY
Táskarádió
Eszpresszó (8
Papnövelde Utca,
tel: 266 0413) This
retro-style bar-café
looks straight out of
the 1960s. Fitted with
round orange lighting
fi xtures, old toys and
funky patterns, it’s a
fun place to grab an
early dreher.
LATE & LIVELY
Szatyor Bar and
Gallery (36 Bartók
Béla Utca) Created
with the help of 18
contemporary artists,
who decorated the
place from fl oor to
ceiling, Szatyor Bar
has an eclectic mix of
styles covering every
inch of its walls.
THIS MONTH
SEE Get acquainted
with local history
at the Hungarian
National Gallery,
which is showcasing
the exhibition
Heroes, Kings and
Saints: Pictures From
Hungarian History
(Buda Palace, mng.hu).
NO WAY!
On 15 March, Budapest
takes on a solemn air
as Hungarians honour
the revolution of 1848.
A rather brutish tale
from the revolution
has made some
Hungarians to this day,
refuse to clink their
glasses in a cheers.
Carolyn Bánfalvi
UNBEATABLE PRICES
IF YOU FIND CHEAPER WE’LL REFUND
DOUBLE THE DIFFERENCE * – GOOD LUCK!
DESTINATION GUIDES | 121
Cagliari
Italy
DIALLING CODE +39
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Basel-Mulhouse,
Berlin, Geneva,
London (STN), Milan
(MXP), Paris (ORY)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €20.
ARST buses
to the city
centre leave every 30
minutes. Tickets: €5.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 La
Stella Marina di
Montecristo (140
Via Sardegna, tel: 070
666 692) Simple but
cosy family restaurant
in the heart of the
city off ering excellent
seafood cuisine. The
service is very friendly,
the fi sh is absolutely
fresh and the prices
are very honest.
EXCLUSIVE
Ippodromo (Viale
Poetto, tel: 070
383 8097) Elegant
location close to
Poetto beach, making
this place suitable for
a romantic dinner. The
staff are exceptionally
friendly and the food
simply excellent. You
can choose from a
large variety of meat
and fi sh dishes as
well as pizzas. Don’t
miss out on the
fantastic desserts.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Caff é
Yenne (32 Piazza
Yenne) Coff ee and
snack bar on the
central Piazza Yenne
with a covered outside
area. Open all day.
LATE & LIVELY
Greta’s (111 Via dei
Genovesi) A lovely
bar housed in a
15th-century building
with excellent live
jazz, classic and world
music. Located in the
heart of Cagliari’s
Old Town, Greta’s
attracts a mixed
crowd from artists
to business people.
Don’t miss out on the
delicious cocktails.
THIS MONTH
GO Visit the World
Wildlife Fund oasis near
Capoterra, only 30
minutes from Cagliari.
The oasis is located in
a beautiful valley ideal
for hiking and is a
breeding station for
Sardinian deer.
NO WAY!
Eating horse meat
is perfectly normal
in Cagliari. You can
fi nd it in almost
every restaurant and
supermarket. Even
fast-food streetstands
off er horse
sandwiches.
Dario Henke
Europcar guarantees easyJet passengers
great car rental deals. For your discounted
price book at
easyJet.com or visit
the Europcar desk.
* Terms & conditions apply.

122 | DESTINATION GUIDES
Casablanca
Morocco
DIALLING CODE +212
CURRENCY MAD
FLY FROM
Lyon, Milan
(MXP), Paris (CDG)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs
about MAD250.
Trains depart
every hour
to Casa Voyageur.
Tickets: MAD60.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
TwinFace (174
Boulevard Zerktouni,
tel: 0522 480 203)
You get your money’s
worth in both quality
and location here.
Enjoy a surprisingly
good meal and dessert
overlooking one of the
city’s most populated
spots across from the
Kenzi Tower Hotel.
EXCLUSIVE La
Taverne du Dauphin
(115 Boulevard
Houphouet Boigny,
tel: 0522 221 200)
Walk through a lively
bar and kitchen into a
cheery, family-owned
restaurant off ering
some of the best fresh
seafood and grilled
fi sh in town. Immerse
yourself in copious
amounts of Oualidia
oysters, king prawns
and garlic clams.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Barrio
Cocktails y Tapas
(Avenue de la Côte
d’Emeraude, Ain Diab)
A night out on the
Corniche? Start just
up the street at Barrio
for some colourful
cocktails, tasty tapas
and good vibes
with friends.
LATE & LIVELY
Vice Club (Hotel
Swisse, Boulevard de
la Corniche, Ain Diab,
tel: 0522 360 202)
The Hotel Swisse
houses this modern
nightclub that lets you
strut your stuff to top
tunes and belt it out to
your favourite classics.
THIS MONTH
G0 With the beach
and Morocco Mall
nearby, Royal Club
Equestre d’Anfa is the
perfect place for lunch
and an afternoon
stroll with horses and
ponies (Boulevard
Sidi Abderrhamane,
tel: 0664 721 835).
NO WAY!
La Gare de Casa-Port,
one of Morocco’s
busiest stations, is
being renovated. Big
plans and scaff olds
dwarf the little box
and construction is
expected to last until
2013. Don’t worry, the
trains are still modern.
Cara Warkentin
Catania
Italy
DIALLING CODE +39
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Geneva, London
(LGW), Milan (MXP),
Paris (CDG)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €20.
Route 457
leaves every 20
minutes stopping in
the centre. Tickets:
€1.50 onboard.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
Pizzeria Le Fontane
(113 Via Casalotto, tel:
347 052 6821) This
petite pizzeria is well
known in the city for its
huge and tasty pizzas
cooked in the typical
Sicilian wood oven.
You can also build
your own picking your
favourite ingredients.
EXCLUSIVE
Al Cavalier Roxy
(51 Piazza Federico
di Svevia, tel: 095
340 418) Located
next to the ancient
castle Ursino, this
restaurant off ers a
low-key atmosphere
and superb dishes.
The speciality of
the house is the
grilled swordfi sh.
FILLER ADVERT
More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Bar
Pasticceria Arabica
(31 Piazza Cavour,
tel: 095 093 5536)
This new city-centre
café off ers a great
combination of
homemade and
genuine products. Take
a seat and order the
Sicilian pastry, cannolo.
LATE & LIVELY
The Brass Jazz Club
La Cartiera (8 Via
Casa Del Mutilato, tel:
348 929 7869) Open
since 1988, this is one
of the historic pubs
of Catania. It has built
a solid reputation
for the quality of the
live concerts it holds.
Jazz, rock and folk
music available on
Wednesdays and
weekend evenings.
NO WAY!
Last January volcano
Etna erupted with
a column of smoke
and lava reaching an
altitude of 5km.
Alessandro Di Maio
MUSEO DEL
GIOCATTOLO
SEE Il Museo del
Giocattolo is a
unique experience. It
off ers an interesting
trip through the
history of toys, from
the Greek era to the
most recent games
(Piazzale Asia).
Cologne
Germany
DIALLING CODE +49
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Edinburgh,
London (LGW)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi to Cologne
costs €25 and €40
to Bonn.
S-bahn trains
leave for Cologne
every 20 minutes.
Tickets: €2.50.
For Bonn, the
bus leaves every
30 minutes to one
hour. Tickets: €6.90.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
Cafe Wahlen (64
Hohenstaufenring, tel:
0221 231 625) Time
stands still at Cafe
Wahlen, where the
decor is cosily retro, the
coff ee and cakes are
classically German and
there are good-value
three-course lunches.
EXCLUSIVE
Neideck (33
Friesenwall, tel:
0221 272 4306)
Cosmopolitan
creations like leek
risotto with fi llet beef
or corn-fed chicken
saltimbocca with
cinnamon plums
make Mario Neideck’s
chic bistro a
culinary hotspot.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Bierhaus
en d’r Salzgass (5–7
Salzgasse, tel: 0221
800 1900) On the site
of a former brewery in
the Old Town, Salzgass
is a great place to get
to grips with a glass of
crisp Päff gen Kölsch,
with high ceilings, darkwood
panelling and
a huge chandelier.
LATE & LIVELY
Zum Goldenen
Schuss (38
Antwerpener Strasse,
tel: 0221 9987
8659) Battered
classic-modern
furniture, urban art
and DJs create a hip
atmosphere at Zum
Goldenen Schuss.
THIS MONTH
SEE The 12th
annual lit.COLOGNE
is Europe’s largest
literature festival,
with genre-defying
events embracing
theatre, music, fi lm
and the visual arts,
plus readings in
German, English and
other languages.
From 14–24 March
(litcologne.de).
NO WAY!
Kölsch beer is
traditionally served in
tiny 0.2-litre glasses
known as stangen,
but you’ll fi nd larger
measures on sale, too,
especially in bars that
cater to visitors from
out of town.
Neville Walker

More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
Copenhagen
Denmark
DIALLING CODE +45
CURRENCY Krone (DKK)
FLY FROM
Basel-Mulhouse,
Berlin, Geneva,
Lisbon, London (LGW,
STN), Manchester,
Milan (MXP)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs
about DKK220.
Metro trains go
to Nørreport
station. Tickets:
DKK34.50.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15 Grød
(50 Jægersborggade)
Denmark’s fi rst café
serving only porridge
opened this winter and
has become the hip
place to hang out in
Jægersborggade. The
weekly menu includes
breakfast, lunch
or dinner options.
UP TO €30 The
Laundromat Café (96
Gammel Kongevej, tel:
5556 5550) Wash your
clothes or delve into
a magazine plucked
from the book-laden
shelves at the latest
branch of Laundromat
Cafés, which combine
laundromat facilities
and generously
portioned, tasty food.
UP TO €50
Oysters & Grill (1B
Sjaellandsgade, tel:
7020 6171) A sure bet
for a fancy meal in a
laidback atmosphere,
this dinner-only
restaurant serves
up a great selection
of seafood including
French and Danish
oysters, mussels
cooked four diff erent
ways plus soft-shell
crab, as well as a
selection of steaks,
cheese and desserts.
EXCLUSIVE Formel
B (12 Vesterbrogade,
Vesterbro, tel: 3325
1066) Despite the
rather modest name
of this Michelin-starred
restaurant, which
translates to “basic
formula”, the dishes
served up by head
chefs and owners
Kristian Meller and
Rune Jochumsen
combine classic French
techniques with Danish
and French ingredients
and are often miniature
works of art. Diners
choose from 20
small dishes and an
extensive wine list.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Café
Victor (8 Ny
Ostergade, tel: 3313
3613) Tucked away
among Copenhagen’s
high-end shops, this is
a great little spot for a
reviving cup of coff ee
or a post-shopping
glass of wine. Open
since 1981, this Danish
take on a French bistro
has walls coated in
mirrors, a particularly
well-stocked bar and
tables always full of
well-heeled locals.
LIVE MUSIC
Amager Bio (6
Øresundsvej, tel:
3286 0200) Joan
Armatrading,
Crowded House and
The Kaiser Chiefs
have all played at this
venue, along with
emerging acts
from Denmark
and beyond.
LATE & LIVELY
Brass Monkey (31
Enghavevej, tel: 3322
3433) So trendy
there’s not even a
sign above the door,
this small, dimly lit
tiki-style bar in
Vesterbro serves great
cocktails, including
fl aming volcanoes
and margaritas.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Charitable
travellers will love
Fisk, a café and shop
ASCOT HOTEL
AND SPA
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
Once the city’s bath
house, this hotel, in
muted colours, is
really central and
great for a trip
to Tivoli. From
€118, book at
hotels.easyJet.com.
combined that sells
vintage clothes and
accessories as well as
redesigned secondhand
clothes. All
proceeds go to
charity (1 Sankt
Peder Straede).
SEE Lee Miller’s
Surrealist Eye is now
being showcased at
the Oregaard Museum.
The collection includes
hundreds of the
photographer’s most
striking photos
(2 Orehoj Alle).
GO Start at The
Old Stock Exchange,
which has an amazing
dragon-tailed spire
and dates back to
1625. Then walk
across the island of
Slotsholmen taking in
Christiansborg Slot,
the impressive home of
the Danish parliament,
before crossing over
the marble bridge
that takes you to the
National Museum.
ESCAPE To escape
the city and enter
the true Danish
countryside, head
north for 30 minutes
on the bus to Gribskov,
one of the nation’s
largest forests, that
covers 5,500 hectares.
It’s now crisscrossed
by a network of roads
and pathways created
in the 17th century
to help huntsmen.
NO WAY!
The name København
is derived from the
the old Danish name
Køpmannæhafn,
which means
“merchant’s harbour”.
Cathy Strongman
DESTINATION GUIDES | 123
Corfu
Greece
DIALLING CODE +30
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Berlin, Bristol,
London (LGW, LTN),
Manchester, Milan
(MXP), Rome
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €12.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
Elizabeth’s Taverna
(Doukades Village
Square, tel: 26630
41728) Running for
half a century and
now in granddaughter
Elizabeth’s hands, this
taverna is renowned
for big smiles and
pastitsada (cockerel
in spicy red sauce
with pasta).
EXCLUSIVE
Restaurant
Peinologio (Deza,
Vatos, Ropa Valley,
tel: 26610 94318)
Favourite with the
locals for almost three
decades, Peinologio
is a grill-room with
excellent starters,
such as tsigarelli
(chilli-fried greens)
and kolokythokeftedes
(courgette balls).
Its unique speciality
is charcoal-grilled
chicken-mince patty
with mustard sauce.
You might also
fi nd casseroles like
cockerel pastitsada.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Lunatico
Bar (Dimoulitsa Street,
San Rocco, Corfu Town)
Lunatico caters for the
local workers of the
government offi ces,
but anyone may visit for
its secluded park-like
atmosphere and cheap
prices. It’s located in the
grounds of the former
psychiatric hospital,
hence the name!
Look for it behind the
sentry box.
LATE & LIVELY
Entechna (New Port,
Corfu Town) If you’re
a fan of real Greek
bouzouki music –
the kind the locals
listen to – head for
Entechna on Friday
and Saturday night.
There’s good food, too.
THIS MONTH
GO Enjoy the sights
and sounds of
Corfu’s renowned
philharmonic
orchestras, marching
in grand procession
to celebrate
Independence Day on
25 March. The event
starts around 11am in
the Esplanade Square.
NO WAY!
Corfi ot cooking is
heavily infl uenced by
Italy, and diff ers from
other Greek cuisines.
Hilary Paipeti

124 | DESTINATION GUIDES
Corsica
(Ajaccio)
France
DIALLING CODE +33
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Basel-Mulhouse,
Geneva, London (LGW),
Lyon, Paris (CDG)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €25.
Route 8 buses
go to the centre
from 5.55am–11.15pm.
Tickets: €4.50.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
Le 20123 (2 Rue du
Roi de Rome, tel: 04
9521 5005) The dining
room is designed
to give the clientèle
the impression that
they’re in a typical
Corsican village. This
restaurant may look
like a village square,
with its water pump
and parked Vespa, but
Le 20123 off ers quality
country food.
EXCLUSIVE L’Altru
Versu (Route des
Sanguinaires, tel:
04 9550 0522) For
total indulgence on
this beautiful island,
there’s only one place
AEGEAN BLUE
VACATIONS
to go and that’s this
beautiful restaurant.
The waiters will guide
you through the vast
menu and wine list
decisively. Go for
an extravagant
lobster or eat citrus
pork medallions.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY
Au Grandval (2
Cours Grandval, tel:
04 9521 1315) Relax
with a good drink at
this bar underneath a
large palm tree. While
sipping your drink,
gaze at plenty of street
photography in this
area of Corsica.
LATE & LIVELY
La Place (Boulevard
Lantivy, Résidence
Diamant II) Downtown
Ajaccio’s best
discothèque, La
Place, is the venue to
party until the small
hours. The music is
mainly techno and the
clientèle is young.
THIS MONTH
SEE Musée de la
Maison Bonaparte
was once the home
of the military leader
and emperor of France
Napoleon. There are
many beautiful pieces
of furniture, including
an Italian commode
studded with stones
(Rue St-Charles).
NO WAY!
A visit to Ajaccio
impressed the French
artist Henri Matisse so
much, it revolutionised
his artistic techniques
and ideas.
Kimberley Chen
Corsica
(Bastia)
France
DIALLING CODE +33
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Geneva,
London (LGW),
Lyon, Manchester,
Paris (CDG)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €50.
Catch the airport
bus to the
Préfecture. Tickets: €9
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
Le Colomba (2 Vieux
Port, tel: 04 9532
7914) For delicious
food, friendly service
and a great view over
Bastia’s Old Port, this
is the place.
EXCLUSIVE
La Corniche (San
Martino di Lota, tel:
04 9531 4098) La
Corniche perches
high on a hillside with
spectacular views of
the Mediterranean,
about 10km north
of Bastia. The menu
includes classic
continental dishes
served with a
Corsican twist.
FILLER ADVERT
Email promotions@aegeanbluevacations.com for full details quoting EJ492
More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Bar
Odeon (22 Rue Cesar
Campinchi, tel: 04
9531 0767) A place
where the locals hang
out. Come for an
espresso or pastis and
eavesdrop on some
animated Corsican
conversation.
LATE & LIVELY
L’Alba (Quai des
Martyrs, tel: 04 9547
0338) Open late and
fi nishing even later,
this venue is a perfect
spot to round off a long
night out. Dance till
2.30am to great tunes
in a lively environment.
THIS MONTH
GO Many Bastiais
are particularly fond
of St Joseph, who
is celebrated on 19
March. Rendezvous
at the church for
Mass, followed by the
procession through
town and don’t miss
out on the succulent
panzarotti, a specialty.
Stacy Jouve
NO WAY!
Corsica has had a
tumultuous history,
including a period
when England’s
King George III was
also King of Corsica
(1794–1796),
before the French
reconquered.
Crete
(Heraklion)
Greece
DIALLING CODE +30
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Berlin, Bristol,
Geneva, London
(LGW, LTN), Madrid,
Manchester, Milan
(MXP), Paris
(CDG), Rome
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €14.
Buses run every
10 minutes to the
centre. Tickets: €1.10.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Peri
Orexeos (10 Korai
Street, tel: 2810 222
679) A small taverna
housed in a renovated
stone building on
bustling, pedestrianonly
Korai Street,
serving Greek and
Cretan cuisine with
a modern twist.
EXCLUSIVE Vetri
(75 Dimokratias Street,
tel: 2810 238 812)
Enjoy sophisticated
dining at this sleek
restaurant, part of
the fi ve-star Galaxy
Hotel. Cretan dishes
with gourmet tastes,
LUXURIATE at the acclaimed Village Heights Golf Resort, Crete.
With its unrivalled panoramic sea-views, indulgent spa treatments &
neighbouring golf-course, coupled with spacious, tasteful apartments,
it has all the elements that make for an unforgettable holiday.
READER OFFER: Prices start FROM 80 EUROS per night, including full buffet-style breakfast (based on 2 people sharing a luxury one
bedroom apartment). This offer is not available to existing ABV members. Members rates are available on request. Terms and Conditions apply.
such as the rack of
lamb with herbs and a
feta crust, are served
with attentive service.
Reserve in advance.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Outopia
(51 Handakas Street,
tel: 2810 341 321) One
of a row of popular
pavement cafés,
near the bottom of
Handakas street,
Outopia serves coff ee,
drinks, cocktails and
their very own special
chocolate fondue.
Open throughout the
day, until late.
LATE & LIVELY
Iridanos (8 Androgeo
& Perdikari, tel:
2810 229 303) This
welcoming venue gets
livelier as the night
goes on. Choose
from two bars set
over two fl oors.
THIS MONTH
SEE Greek
Independence Day
takes place on 25
March. The national
holiday marks the
beginning of the end
of Ottoman rule in
1821. Catch the fanfare
parade of school
children and military
march through the citycentre
streets at noon.
NO WAY!
Greece became an
independent nation
in 1830 following the
War of Independence,
but Crete continued
to battle the Ottoman-
Turk occupation and
wasn’t united with
Greece until 1913.
Carol Palioudakis
+30 22410 49930 | www.aegeanblue.eu

More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
Cyprus
(Larnaca)
Cyprus
DIALLING CODE +357
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
London (LGW)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €15.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
EXCLUSIVE
Lord Kitchener
(Psematismenos
Village, tel: 24 333
484) Chef Dean
Simmons believes in
using local suppliers
and seasonal food
with fl air and passion,
which leads to a
constantly changing
menu. Dine in elegant
surroundings and
choose from a wide
choice of wines.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Da Vinci
(5 St Lazarus Square,
tel: 24 664 660)
Come for delicious
homemade cakes
eaten al fresco in
the shadow of Saint
Lazarus church.
Da Vinci gives its
customers the
opportunity to relax
and savour that
Mediterranean feeling.
LATE & LIVELY
Café Blu (Livadhiotis
City Hotel, 50 Nikolaou
Rossou Street, tel:
24 626 222) A chic
café during the day,
this place ups the
tempo by night. The
regular live music in
a comfortable setting
attracts all age groups.
THIS MONTH
GO The church in the
village of Kiti, called
Panayia Angeloktisti,
is decorated with
superb mosaic
representations of
the Virgin Mary dating
from the 6th century.
Other frescoes are
also preserved.
NO WAY!
The most famous
doctor of the fi rst
century BC was
Apollonios of Kition
(now known as
Larnaca). He was the
Cypriot Hippocrates.
Bev Orton Jennings
UP TO €30
Art Café 1900 (6
Stasinou Street,
tel: 24 653 027)
Built in 1900, the
Art Café off ers a
limited selection of
traditional meals.
Enjoy the artwork
decorating the walls.
Cyprus
(Paphos)
Cyprus
DIALLING CODE +357
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Bristol,
Edinburgh, London
(LGW, LTN),
Manchester
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €30.
Buses run to
Paphos harbour
every hour. Tickets: €1.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Achni
and Kanela (Opposite
the bus station, tel: 26
912 546) Translating
roughly as “Icing Sugar
and Cinnamon”, this
little street café serves
a host of delights like
spinach pie and cream
tart in the style of
Thessaloniki bakeries.
EXCLUSIVE The
Lodge (Poseidonos
Avenue, Kato Paphos,
tel: 7000 6673) For
a taste of Africa in
a roomy setting
with dusky wooden
furniture and open fi re,
head to The Lodge.
Generous portions of
ribs, chicken, seafood
and some of the best
coleslaw in town are
on the menu,
all served with
homemade sauces.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Alymyra
Hotel Lounge Bar (12
Poseidonos Avenue,
tel: 26 888 700) For
a chic and minimal
setting with sea views,
have a drink or coff ee
at the Almyra Hotel bar
on Poseidonos Avenue.
A truly elegant bar with
a good cocktail list.
LATE & LIVELY
Friends Bar (Bar
Street, Kato Paphos,
tel: 99 991 212) Live
bands and singers
regularly grace the
stage from about 9.30
in the evening at this
friendly bar in the
tourist area. If you’re
having a bite as well
as a drink, booking is
recommended.
THIS MONTH
SEE Cyprus
celebrates Greek
Independence Day on
25 March with parades
of school children,
soldiers and excellent
marching bands. The
event draws large
crowds and street
vendors and provides a
taste of local life. Taking
place on Grive Digheni
Avenue, it usually kicks
off at about 10am.
NO WAY!
The fi rst Cypriot
president, Archbishop
Makarios III, was
born in Paphos in
Panagia village.
Lucie Robson/lintv.eu
Talk to our sales advisors
FILLER ADVERT
DESTINATION GUIDES | 125
Dalaman
Turkey
DIALLING CODE +90
CURRENCY TRY
FLY FROM
Bristol,
Edinburgh, London
(LGW, STN),
Manchester
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com. A
local taxi costs TRY40.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
Ayytacc Café (14B
Cumhuriyet Caddesi,
tel: 0252 692 4423)
This snazzy café
attracts a youthful mix
of customers. Order a
frothy cappuccino, as
no alcohol is served,
and enjoy a spot of
people-watching.
Open until midnight, it
makes a great
place to mingle
with the local
young and trendy
crowd. Eat, drink
and be happy.
EXCLUSIVE Cafe
La Vie (Maras Mah,
5 Saglik sok, Dalyan,
tel: 0252 284 4142)
Tingle your tastebuds
at this fabulous
restaurant. Enjoy a
mouthwatering mixed
grill and sip wonderful
wines served with
panache, while
relaxing by the river
running through
the gardens.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Tesadüf
(Ege mah, 37 Kenan
Evren bulvarı, tel:
0252 692 5914)
Simply the best place
in town to start your
evening. Unwind to
live local music while
enjoying a delicious
steak or freshly
caught seabass in
Dalaman’s classiest
hip location.
LATE & LIVELY
Jazz Bar
(Cumhurriyet mah,
Göcek, tel: 0252
645 1729) Finish the
evening a-rockin’-anda-rollin’
until dawn to
local and international
hits played with
style by a variety
of live musicians.
THIS MONTH
GO Sea too cold?
Then visit the natural
thermal pool at
Fevziye, where the
water is a constant
27°C. The water is said
to cure everything
from psoriasis to
sciatica (Gurukardı
mah, Kukurtlu su,
Fevziye, tel: 0252
285 8219).
NO WAY!
The world’s oldest
known shipwreck was
found and excavated
in Uluburun, just
along the coast
from Dalaman.
Rod Harrison
The World of Personal Number Plates
I EAG
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126 | DESTINATION GUIDES
Dortmund
Germany
DIALLING CODE +49
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Barcelona,
Budapest, London
(LTN), Majorca,
Thessaloniki, Zagreb
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €22.
The Airport
Express leaves
every hour. Tickets: €6.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Enfes
(40 Landgrafenstrasse,
tel: 0231 1301 1810)
South of the centre in
a residential area, this
new Turkish restaurant
(its name means
“delicious” ) comes
highly recommended
for its lava stone-grilled
quail and sea bream.
There are seasonal
dishes and a good
selection of wine.
EXCLUSIVE
Bocconcino (77
Lindemannstrasse,
tel: 0231 950 3957)
A swish new Italian
restaurant and lounge
serving good-value
lunches, fresh pasta,
pizza and sinful creamy
desserts. After the
kitchen closes at 11pm,
guests move over to
the bar for cocktails.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Chocolat
Café (74 Neuer
Graben) A relaxed
little café with tables
at which to chat and
sofas on which to curl
up with a book. Wait
for spring to arrive
outside with good
coff ee, a hot chocolate,
or breakfast, cakes,
pancakes and
Dutch poff ertjes
(mini-pancakes).
LATE & LIVELY
Nachtgalerie (136
Westenhellweg) A
new cellar club with
proper art on the walls,
couches in the lounge
areas and a mixed,
party-minded crowd
on the fl oor. Salsa is
played on Wednesdays.
Everything else can
be heard on Fridays
and Saturdays.
THIS MONTH
SEE See some
high-level ping pong
as the world’s best
players compete at
the Table Tennis World
Championships, held
at the Westfalenhalle
from 25 March
(2012wttc.com).
NO WAY!
The Dortmunder U
tower is nicknamed
the leuchtturm
(“lighthouse”) by
locals. It used to have a
massive rotating light
mounted on the top.
Jeroen van Marle/
inyourpocket.com
Dresden
Germany
DIALLING CODE +49
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Basel-Mulhouse
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €20.
Catch the
S-Bahn to
Dresden, which runs
every 30 minutes.
Tickets: €2 single.
BON APPETIT
EXCLUSIVE
Luisenhof (8
Bergbahnstrasse, tel:
0351 214 9960) At
the top of Dresden’s
historic funicular
railway, the Luisenhof
UP TO €30
Herrenhaus
Gorbitz (15
Kaufbacher Strasse,
tel: 0351 411 5601)
The Herrenhaus’
reputation is built on
its excellent German
fare. Try the freshly
smoked fi sh.
FILLER ADVERT
More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
off ers top-tier food and
German cooking done
the right way. Even
better, it off ers one of
the most sought-after
views of the city and
in the evening, piano
music accompanies
the drinks in the bar.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Weincafé
Nebenan (10
Schillerplatz) Located
at the foot of Dresden’s
historic Blue Wonder
bridge, the Nebenan is
small and welcoming.
Leave your worries
at the door when you
come in for a glass of
wine and snacks.
LATE & LIVELY
Arteum (3 Am
Brauhaus, tel: 0351 215
5770) A hard-hitter in
Dresden’s party scene
and located in the
middle of the former
Waldschlösschen
brewery grounds.
Come for atmosphere
and good music.
THIS MONTH
SEE Geteilt/Ungeteilt
is an art exhibit in the
historic Albertinum.
The exhibit (the name
means “Divided/
Undivided”) displays
post-war German art
from East and West.
The show is a window
into the after-eff ects
of reunifi cation (2
Tzschirnerplatz).
NO WAY!
Dresden is the baby
capital of Germany. In
2010, approximately
6,000 babies were
born in the city.
Toby Crowley
Düsseldorf
Germany
DIALLING CODE +49
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Basel-Mulhouse,
London (LGW), Rome
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €20.
Trains to the
Hauptbahnhof
leave every 15 minutes.
Tickets: €2.30.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Alte
Metzgerei (48
Hoff eldstrasse,
Flingern, tel: 0211 580
3405) Wholesome,
daily-changing lunch
specials like caulifl ower
soup with curry and
coriander or zucchini
tart with speck and
salad make Alte
Metzgerei well worth
the minor detour from
the city centre.
EXCLUSIVE Zin Zin
(59 Königsallee, tel:
0211 863 9992) Floral
motifs in modern
Italian mosaic provide
an elegant setting
at Zin Zin and with
dishes like gateau
of langoustine with
wild herbs and ginger
gelée, the menu is
no slouch in the style
stakes, either.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY
Himmel & Ähd (53
Nordstrasse, tel: 0211
498 1361) Stripped
brick meets wood
panelling at Himmel
& Ähd, a modern
reworking of local
Brauhaus tradition with
Füchschen Alt beer
on draught and hearty
Rhineland classics on
the food menu.
LATE & LIVELY
Koyote Privat (25
Rather Strasse)
Eclectic and funky
with a music policy
that ranges from
classic soul and
rare grooves to hip
hop and dancehall,
Koyote Privet is worth
checking out if you
prefer your clubbing
underground to glitzy.
THIS MONTH
SEE One of the
traditional highlights
of the artistic year
in Düsseldorf
is Die Grosse
Kunstausstellung NRW,
which presents work
by artists from the city
or the surrounding
Land of North Rhine
Westphalia. At the
Museum Kunstpalast
until 18 March
(diegrosse.de).
NO WAY!
Düsseldorf’s most
internationally
renowned export is
probably the washing
powder Persil.
Neville Walker
The nikko hotel Düsseldorf is centrally located, close to the famous
Königsallee, the Altstadt (old town) and the main station. In one of its
386 rooms you can experience international elegance combined with
the Japanese way of life. The Benkay speciality restaurant, the Torii Bar
& Bistro and the nikko spa club with its 360° view over the regional
capital make your stay an experience for all the senses.

More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
Edinburgh
UK
DIALLING CODE +44
CURRENCY £
FLY FROM
Alicante,
Amsterdam, Athens,
Basel-Mulhouse,
Belfast (BFS), Bristol,
Cologne, Cyprus
(Paphos), Dalaman,
Geneva, Grenoble,
Krakow, Lisbon, London
(LGW, LTN, STN), Lyon,
Madrid, Milan (MXP),
Munich, Majorca,
Naples, Nice, Paris
(CDG), Tenerife
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs £15.
The Airlink 100
express service
goes to the centre.
Tickets: £6.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15 Nile
Valley (6 Chapel
Street, Southside,
tel: 0131 667 8200)
Sudanese restaurant
with plenty of tasty
vegetarian options,
but the speciality is
lamb. Decor is on the
basic side, but the
basement setting
provides a homely and
cosy atmosphere.
UP TO €30 Pink
Olive (55–57 West
Nicolson Street,
tel: 0131 662 4493)
Moderate prices and
inventive attention
to detail in the menu
have given this
Southside bistro a
healthy reputation.
The choice might be
a shade eclectic, but is
based on slow-cooked
local ingredients.
UP TO €50
VinCaff è (11 Multrees
Walk, New Town, tel:
0131 557 0088) The
sibling of renowned
Italian deli Valvona and
Crolla. Mary Contini’s
menu in the fi rst-fl oor
restaurant is paradise
for those who love real
Italian cuisine, made
from fresh local and
Italian produce. The
puddings alone are
worth travelling for.
EXCLUSIVE
The Kitchin (78
Commercial Quay,
Leith, tel: 0131 555
1755) Book for a
table in Tom Kitchin’s
Michelin-starred
restaurant. British
cuisine gets the
French treatment
with only the best
Scottish ingredients.
In everything, from the
welcome to the decor,
the wine-list and the
menu (which changes
daily), the accent is
on the pleasure of
enjoying great food.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY
Thomson’s Bar (182
Morrison Street,
tel: 0131 228 5700)
Named for Alexander
“Greek” Thomson, on
whose architectural
designs the traditional
bar is based, this
boasts well-kept cask
ales. A good number
of single-malt whiskies
are on off er, with
a basic food menu.
LIVE MUSIC
Ghillie-Dhu (2
Rutland Place, tel:
0131 222 9930) There
are Scottish folk
and acoustic music
sessions every night
in the main bar of this
large pub refurbished
along traditional lines.
The opulent upstairs
hall hosts ceilidh
dancing every Friday.
LATE & LIVELY
Bar Kohl (54 George
IV Bridge, tel: 0131 225
6936) A vodka buff ’s
dream, with over 50
diff erent varieties to
choose from. There
is a true dedication
to mixology from the
knowledgeable bar
staff , while the trendy,
urban soundtrack
keeps things buzzing.
QUALITY HOTEL
EDINBURGH
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
An award-winning
hotel, this
comfortable stay
has great amenities
and is close to
the airport. From
€71, book at
hotels.easyJet.com.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Founded by
a local fossil hunter
in 1987, Mr Wood’s
Fossils now trades
in fossils, meteorites
and minerals sourced
from all over the world.
Browse everything
from mineral jewellery
to 20-million-year-old
giant shark teeth
(5 Cowgatehead).
SEE A spectacularly
engaging production,
Of Mice and Men, is on
at the Royal Lyceum
until 17 March. DC
Jackson’s relocation
of Beaumarchais’
Marriage of Figaro into
the ruthless world of
contemporary fi nance
then opens on the
23rd (Grindlay Street).
GO Calton Hill not
only provides an
escape from the
bustle of town, it also
gives a perfect view
of the two volcanic
plugs which dominate
the city – the crag of
Castle Rock, with its
long tail down to the
foot of Arthur’s Seat.
ESCAPE Perth is
only an hour away
by train, across the
Forth Bridge. Home
to the Black Watch
regimental museum,
this market town on
the highest navigable
point of the Tay is
steeped in history.
NO WAY!
James Hutton, the
father of geology,
formed his Theory
of the Earth after
examining Salisbury
Crags on Arthur’s Seat.
Thom Dibdin
DESTINATION GUIDES | 127
Faro
Portugal
DIALLING CODE +351
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Basel, Belfast
(BFS), Bristol, Geneva,
Glasgow, Liverpool,
London (LGW, LTN,
SEN, STN), Newcastle,
Paris (ORY)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
The fare to Faro is
about €10, Albufeira
€50 and Lagos €90.
The bus departs
to Faro bus
station every 40–60
minutes. Tickets: €1.65.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
Cervejaria Baía (7
Largo Dr Silva Nobre,
tel: 289 822 845)
Locals fi ll this little
restaurant at lunchtime
thanks to its reliably
tasty fresh fi sh, which
you can examine fi rst
in the counter. There
are also outdoor seats
on a quiet square.
EXCLUSIVE Sao
Gabriel (Estrada
Vale do Lobo-Quinta
do Lago, tel: 289
394 521) One of the
cluster of Michelinstarred
restaurants in
the Golden Triangle
around Almancil, São
Gabriel serves a range
of fantastic dishes
such as melon soup
with Pernod sorbet,
lobster with star anise
and venison with
spinach gnocchi, in a
former ambassador’s
luxurious residence.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Taberna
da Sé (26 Rua
Professor Norberto da
Silva, tel: 965 827 662)
One of the few bars in
Faro’s Old Town, this
little bar serves some
of the Algarve’s famed
local spirits – try the
brandymel with
honey – as well as
beers and wines.
LATE & LIVELY
Bar Sete e Meio (7
Rua São Gonçalo de
Lagos, Albufeira, tel:
289 585 687) This
has long been one of
the liveliest bars in
Albufeira – which is
saying something
in this party town.
Expect guest DJs and
a good atmosphere.
THIS MONTH
SEE Catch some of
the world’s top drivers
from 27 March, who
will be taking part in the
challenging, 1,000km
cross-Algarve Portugal
Rally (rallydeportugal.
pt). On 25 March,
Olhanense take on
football giants Benfi ca.
NO WAY!
The Algarve and
southern Portugal’s
cork groves produce
nearly half of the
world’s supply of cork.
Matthew Hancock

128 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
Fez
Morocco
DIALLING CODE +212
CURRENCY MAD
FLY FROM
Paris (CDG)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs
about 120MAD.
Buses run to
the train station
in the New City.
Tickets: 20MAD.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
Restaurant
Marrakech (11 Rue
Omar el Mokhtar,
tel: 0535 930 876)
Moroccans and French
ex-pats swear by this
eatery in the new city.
Excellent local cuisine
abounds at reasonable
prices. Try the rich
chicken b’stilla,
a savoury pie.
EXCLUSIVE
Restaurant Le
Majestic (Royal
Tennis Club, tel: 0535
729 999) Go for
continental delicacies
at this modern
restaurant. Have
lunch on the beautiful
terrace surrounded
by rose beds, or go for
dinner and enjoy the
ambient music or live
jazz bands.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Cafe
Kortoba (Derb
Boutouil) Deep in the
Medina on the edge
of the Qarawiyine,
this busy café is an
institution. Ice cream
and cakes washed
down with coff ee or
mint tea are de rigueur
as you watch all the
action on the street.
LATE & LIVELY
Jnan Palace Hotel
(Avenue Ahmed
Chaouki) Sink into
a comfortable leather
armchair for a drink
at Le Birdy bar before
strutting your stuff in
Le Phoebus nightclub
at this fi ve-star hotel.
NO WAY!
The most sacred
spot in Morocco, the
shrine of Fez’s founder
Moulay Idriss in the
centre of the Medina,
is undergoing a fullscale
restoration that
will take fi ve years
to complete.
Helen Ranger
PLACE
SEFFARINE
GO Lose yourself
in Place Seff arine:
artisans beating
copper and brass,
ancient buildings
around the square,
leafy plane trees
and a little café
(R’cif, Fez Medina).
Fuerteventura
Spain
DIALLING CODE +34
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Basel, Bristol,
Liverpool, London
(LGW)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com. A
local taxi to Corralejo
costs €60, Caleta de
Fuste: €15 and Costa
Calma: €90.
Route 3 goes to
Caleta de Fuste.
Tickets: €1.40. Route 6
buses to Corralejo run
every hour. Tickets: €4.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Casa
Manolo (13 Calle
Crucero Baleares,
tel: 928 866 575) For
traditional tapas, this
place is a must. Chef
and owner Manolo
oversees this friendly,
family-run restaurant
to which clients return
year after year.
EXCLUSIVE El Mar
(Aveneda Marítima
Corralejo, tel: 928 537
396) A sophisticated
restaurant right on
the seafront. Visit for a
stunning lunch on the
terrace in the sunshine,
or enjoy a romantic
evening watching
the moon shining
over the sea. Superb
menu specialising in
fresh fi sh. Great wine
selection. With its
welcoming, friendly
service, El Mar is
highly recommended.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY
La Sirena (Hoplaco
Apartments, Corralejo)
Settle down in a
comfortable lounger to
watch the sun set from
this chilled-out bar
overlooking the beach.
LATE & LIVELY
Imagine (7 Calle
Lepanto, Corralejo, tel:
928 536 568) Select
what you want to hear
from the menu and
resident musician Eric
will perform his own
unique rendition. Just
look for the red guitar
signs in town.
THIS MONTH
SEE Corralejo
Carnival runs from
8–18 March. There’s
nightly entertainment
in town and a grand
parade on Saturday
17 March at 6.30pm.
NO WAY!
The Egyptian vulture
was likely established
around 2,500 years
ago on the island –
around the same time
as humans came and
colonised, too. Sadly
it’s now classifi ed as
endangered on the
International Union
for Conservation of
Nature’s Red List.
Penny Melville
Geneva
Switzerland
DIALLING CODE +41
CURRENCY CHF
FLY FROM
Alicante,
Amsterdam, Asturias,
Athens, Barcelona,
Belfast (BFS), Berlin,
Bilbao, Birmingham,
Bordeaux,
Bournemouth, Brindisi,
Bristol, Brussels,
Budapest, Cagliari,
Catania, Copenhagen,
Corsica (Ajaccio),
Corsica (Bastia), Crete
(Heraklion), Dubrovnik,
Edinburgh, Faro,
Glasgow, Hurghada,
Ibiza, Lisbon, Liverpool,
Leeds-Bradford,
London (LGW, LTN,
STN), Madrid,Majorca,
Málaga, Manchester,
Marrakech, Mykonos,
Nantes, Naples,
Newcastle, Nice,
Olbia, Paris (ORY),
Porto, Pristina,
Rome, Santiago de
Compostela, Sharm
El Sheikh, Split,
Stockholm, Tel Aviv,
Toulouse, Venice
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs
about CHF50.
Trains go to
Cornavin station.
Pick up a free ticket
from the machine in
baggage reclaim, which
is valid for an hour.
A Swiss Transfer
ticket off ers
open returns on buses,
trains and boats across
the city. Buy onboard,
tickets: £95.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15 Jame’s
Pub (64 Rue de
Monthoux, tel: 022 731
6310) Masquerading
as a pub, this Thai
delight is quite a fi nd.
Not only do they do a
tantalising tom yum
soup and a spicy
papaya salad but you’ll
also see Thai ex-pats
singing on the karaoke.
UP TO €30 Buvette
des Bains (30 Quai du
Mont-Blanc, tel: 022
738 1616) While thickskinned
swimmers visit
Bains de Pâquis all year
round, spring brings
new visitors to this
lakeside “spa”. The
restaurant off ers
traditional Swiss fare.
UP TO €50
Altitude (13 Route de
l’Aeroport, tel: 022 817
4609) You don’t have
to be travelling to enjoy
a tasty fl ight of fancy
here. Located in the
airport complex with a
runway view, Altitude’s
menu includes small
bites of smoked
salmon, charcuterie
and tender steaks.
EXCLUSIVE Tse
Yang (19 Quai du
Mont-Blanc, tel:
022 908 9081) The
modern Chinese menu
at Tse Yang off ers

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130 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
Geneva
Switzerland
an enticing array
of dishes, including
caramelised Szechuan
beef, but it is best
known for its Peking
duck. The oriental
interiors contrast with
the alpine backdrop.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Café
Lyrique (12 Boulevard
du Théatre) Café
Lyrique’s grand mirrors
and chandeliers evoke
a Parisian feel, perfect
for an evening aperitif.
Looking out over Place
de Neuve, Geneva’s
cultural hub.
LIVE MUSIC
L’Atrium (13 Quai du
Mont-Blanc) Ease
yourself into a mellow
mood in the Atrium bar
at the world-renowned
Beau Rivage hotel.
It attracts besuited
business folk and
dressed-up divas.
LATE & LIVELY Le
Baroque (12 Place de
la Fusterie) Despite
boasting a diamond
throne, Le Baroque
is rather smart and
sophisticated. Open
until 4am, it is a good
option for those who
don’t want to stray far
from the centre.
THIS MONTH
SHOP All forms of
transport can be found
in Molard Jouets. A
Mecca for modelmakers
and grown-up
enthusiasts! (21 Rue
Neuve-du-Molardthis).
SEE The Geneva
Motor Show is a
highlight of Geneva’s
year. As well as
“ordinary” cars
and hybrids, some
exciting supercars
will be unmasked
(8–18 March, Palexpo
Exhibition Centre).
GO The district
Pregny-Chambésy is
home to a number of
diplomatic missions
and heritage sites,
including the striking
Campagne du
Reposoir and the
Rothschild Castle.
ESCAPE Just
a 50km fl it from
Geneva, the pretty
Vallée de Joux is
known for its three
mountain lakes.
NO WAY!
The Pierres du Niton,
two large rocks
poking out of lake
Geneva, date from
the last ice age
and remain as the
authoritative point of
the Swiss heightmeasurement
system.
Laura Mathew
HOTEL
LIDO
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
An enviable location
in central Geneva, the
Hotel Lido is a short
stroll away from the
peaceful shores
of Lake Geneva.
From €153, book at
hotels.easyJet.com.
Gibraltar
UK Territory
DIALLING CODE +350
CURRENCY £
FLY FROM
Liverpool,
London (LGW)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs £5.
Routes 3, 9 and
10 run every 10
minutes. Tickets: £1.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
Seawave Bar
(60 Catalan Bay
Village) Head for the
charming Catalan
Bay and the tuckedaway
Seawave Bar
at the bottom of the
steps, next to the
hotel. Specialities
include a seafood
paella and tasty,
British-style fi sh
and chips.
Closed Wednesday.
EXCLUSIVE
Maharaja (5 Tuckey’s
Lane, tel: 200
75233) The original
Indian restaurant
on the Rock has
benefi ted from a
classy refurbishment
recently. The menu
off ers
a lavish selection of
favourites, including
tandooris, kormas,
rogan josh and
masala curries.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Star
Bar (12 Parliament
Lane, tel: 200 75924)
The Rock’s oldest
bar is conveniently
located just off
Main Street. Enjoy
a variety of draught
beers including
Old Speckled Hen
and Murphy’s in an
appropriate pub
atmosphere.
LATE & LIVELY
All Stars (Unit 13,
Ocean Village) A
whopping 40-screen
sports bar with
in-house DJs, happy
hour and waterfront
views. Killer cocktails
are a speciality.
THIS MONTH
GO The complex
defence system
of the World War II
tunnels is not as well
known as the nearby
Siege tunnels but just
as fascinating. Even
combined, these two
tunnel systems only
constitute around
70km of the total
length of tunnels
in the Rock.
NO WAY!
Casemates Square
at the end of Main
Street was once
the centre of public
executions on the
Rock. Thankfully, now
all you’ll see is people
sipping coff ee!
Josephine Quintero
Glasgow
UK
DIALLING CODE +44
CURRENCY £
FLY FROM
Alicante,
Amsterdam, Belfast,
Berlin, Bristol, Faro,
Geneva, Ibiza, Jersey,
London (LGW, LTN,
STN), Málaga,
Majorca, Paris (CDG)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs £20.
Arriva Glasgow
Flyer Bus leaves
every 10 minutes.
Tickets: £4.50 single;
£6.50 open return.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15 Bar
Soba (11 Mitchell Lane,
tel: 0141 204 2404)
This popular bar serves
up a delicious range
of South-East Asian
fusion food that’s a big
hit with pre-clubbers.
Lunchtime is a bit
quieter, and the menu
off ers soup, noodles,
wok dishes, curries,
burgers and wraps.
UP TO €30 Red
Leaf Restaurant
(Springfi eld Quay, tel:
0141 555 6100) This
excellent restaurant
is located in the Alea
Glasgow Casino. It
off ers a beautiful
setting, where fl oorto-ceiling
windows
give views across the
Clyde to famous city
landmarks. Take
your pick from
Scottish, seafood
and modern menus.
UP TO €50
Minsky’s Glasgow
Hilton (1 William
Street, tel: 0141 204
5506) Minsky’s is a
casual, New York-style
brasserie with a
massive buff et and
some Scottish options,
delicious steaks, soups,
seafood and salads.
There’s a carvery
and a good Sunday
lunchtime off er.
EXCLUSIVE An
Lochan (340 Crow
Road, tel: 0141 338
6606) Only the fi nest
Scottish seafood
and game are served
daily by the delightful
staff in this relaxed
and comfortable
environment. The food
is simply outstanding
and earned An Lochan
the title of Best New
Restaurant in the
2005 Scottish Chef
Awards. It has gone
from strength to
strength ever since.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY The
Universal (57–59
Sauchiehall Street, tel:
0141 332 8899) One of
Glasgow’s hidden gems
of a bar, off the beaten
track but still located
in the heart the city.
Serving an amazing
selection of lagers,
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132 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
Glasgow
UK
spirits, cocktails
and quality wines. A
cosy, comfortable and
friendly atmosphere.
LIVE MUSIC The
Islay Inn (1256 Argyle
Street, tel: 0141 334
7774) The Islay Inn
has maintained its
traditional roots where
you can experience
true Scottish
hospitality and enjoy
live music, good food
and nice company.
LATE & LIVELY
Bamboo (West Regent
Street, tel: 0141 332
1067) Bamboo, one
of Glasgow’s busiest
nightclubs, is open
from Tuesday to
Sunday. It has a threeroomed
basement
off ering club nights
serving up R’n’B, rock
and indie.
THIS MONTH
SHOP The St Enoch
Shopping Centre
overlooks the historic
St Enoch Square and
the original subway
station building. It is
notable for its massive
glass roof, the largest
glass-covered enclosed
area in Europe. Highstreet
names and
boutique retailers can
be found here.
SEE Glasgow’s Book
Festival Aye Write!
returns on 9–17
March, bringing a lineup
of authors to the
city. The festival, which
is in its seventh year,
features local talent
alongside national and
international authors
for a celebration of
books and poetry.
GO Finnieston is
home of the Clyde
Auditorium, and the tall
ship SV Glenlee. Walk
across the pedestrian
bridge over the Clyde
to the Glasgow Science
Centre at Pacifi c
Quay, home to the
Glasgow Tower – the
only building in the
world that can turn
360 degrees from the
ground up.
ESCAPE Falkirk is
home to the world’s
fi rst rotating boat lift.
It’s the centrepiece of
the Millennium Link
and has a Ronald Rae
sculpture trail, play
park and Antonine
Wall heritage site. Just
a 20-minute train ride
from Glasgow.
NO WAY!
The New York Times
has just listed
Glasgow as No.12 in
the top destinations
to visit in 2012.
Evelyn McKechnie
RAMADA
HOTEL
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
All the usual luxuries
expected from the
Ramada chain are
off ered in this hotel.
Great rooms and
a good location.
From €73, book at
hotels.easyJet.com.
Gran Canaria
Spain
DIALLING CODE +34
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Basel-Mulhouse,
London (LGW)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €35.
Route 60 runs
from 6.50am–
11.05pm. Tickets:
€2.50 (Parque Santa
Catalina); €1.95
(Parque San Telmo).
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
Murphys Kitchen
(Commercial
Centre Puerto Rico)
Murphy’s is the place
for good, reasonably
priced, home-cooked
Irish food. Start the
day with a tasty Irish
breakfast, or begin
your evening with
a bowl of hearty
Irish stew in a
fantastic atmosphere.
EXCLUSIVE Dedo
De Dios (Carretera
Puerto de Las Nieves,
tel: 928 898 581)
Head here for locally
caught fresh fi sh,
served in a pleasant
atmosphere. Try
the fi sh soup or the
gambas al ajillo –
sizzling prawns baked
in garlic oil and spices
– washed down with
a bottle of local wine.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Wig
Wam Bar (21
Apartments Porto
Nova) Chill out on
the terrace of
this cosy, Native
American-style bar
and watch the sun
go down with a cold
Belgian beer or a
delicious cocktail
in hand.
LATE & LIVELY
The Point (Avenue
Italia, Playa del
Ingles) Hit The Point
for a wild night out
with good music
and a fantastic
atmosphere. Look
out for special
party nights.
THIS MONTH
SEE This month,
fun-fi lled Carnival
hits Maspalomas, so
dress up, take to the
streets, eat, drink and
be merry – but be
prepared for a long
night. The Spanish are
known for their full-on
fi estas, and there’s
no better excuse
than Carnival to shut
up shop and keep
dancing all night.
NO WAY!
Gran Canaria has
33 protected areas
occupying almost
half of the surface
area of the island.
Jan Cooney/
elsunnews.com
Grenoble
France
DIALLING CODE +33
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Birmingham,
Bristol, Edinburgh,
Liverpool, London
(LGW, LTN, STN)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €80.
Catch the
Altitude line bus
to the city centre.
Tickets: €12.50 single.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
O Callaghan (1
Place de Bérulle, tel:
04 7642 6896) A
stagger from the bar
of the same name,
the new O Callaghan
restaurant is the
only place serving
British pub grub in
Grenoble. Think jacket
potatoes with beans
and cheese, fresh
battered salmon and
chips and roast beef
on Sundays.
EXCLUSIVE La
Fantin Latour (1 Rue
du Général de Beylié,
tel: 04 7601 0097)
Inspired by Grenoble’s
magnifi cent natural
surroundings,
chef Stéphane
Froidevaux brings
passion and local
produce to his plates
at this colourful,
contemporary
restaurant, set in
a former museum in
the antiques quarter.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Druid’s
Pub (3 Rue Diodore
Rahoult, tel: 04 3837
0885) With regular
live music and several
Irish draught ales on
tap, it’s no wonder
that this small but
perfectly formed pub
gets the moniker “best
Irish bar in Grenoble”
from its loyal fans.
LATE & LIVELY
George V – L’Absolu
(124 Cours Berriat,
tel: 06 6215 1622)
From the disco, dance
and 1980s sounds
of L’Absolu to the
electro-house and
karaoke, singles and
gay-friendly cabaret
nights of the George V,
this double club keeps
Grenoble partying
until 5.30am.
THIS MONTH
GO Attitude meets
altitude this month as
ski resort Alpe d’Huez
is transformed into a
wild, colourful hub for
gay and lesbian winter
sports event European
Gay Ski Week (24–31
March, Alpe d’Huez).
NO WAY!
The caving headlamp
was invented in
Grenoble by Joseph
Petzl. His family still
have a company
named after him.
Anya Pope
Hipark Grenoble***
6, rue Auguste Genin 38000, Grenoble
Tél: +33 4 76 39 20 00. / Fax: +33 04 76 39 20 01
Email: hipark.grenoble@hipark-residences.com

Grenoble Graduate School of Business Productions present
Master of Business Administration
Full-time/Part-time/Executive/Online
Accreditations
www.ggsb.com/mba
Dikomo - 02/2012 - Visuel: P. Tur - Illustration: J. Guerry

134 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
Hamburg
Germany
DIALLING CODE +49
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Basel-Mulhouse,
Manchester, London
(LGW, LTN)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €25.
S1 S-Bahn trains
run from 4.29am
until midnight, every
10 minutes.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Cölln’s
(1 Brodschrangen,
tel: 040 364 153)
Dating from 1760, this
maritime-inspired
eatery is one of the
city’s oldest and most
beloved restaurants.
It features seafood
specialities that are
best enjoyed in one
of the dozen semiprivate
dining alcoves.
EXCLUSIVE Calla
(4 Heiligengeistbrücke,
tel: 040 368 060)
Marrying pan-
European cookery
with exotic, far-eastern
fl avours, the stylish,
whitewashed
gastronomic
restaurant of the
Steigenberger hotel is
helmed by a youthful
cookery team led by
chef Michael Winkle.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Mars Bar
(2 Strassenbahnring,
tel: 040 4600 9950)
Decked out with blond
communal tables
where media and arty
types congregate, this
bistro is located in
a modern campus in
Eppendorf and serves
an inventive marketfresh
menu.
LATE & LIVELY
Christiansen’s (60
Pinnasberg) The
brainchild of legend
Uwe Christiansen,
this Altona bolthole
attracts a crosssection
of society who
sidle up to a kitschy
bar for a selection of
150 cocktails.
THIS MONTH
GO A stone’s throw
from Dammtor,
Mittelweg, is one of the
city’s ritziest quarters,
a fact that is starkly
apparent in the glut of
art galleries, minimalist
furniture and
homeware shops and
chic boutiques that line
its fringes. A handful of
bars and restaurants
cater to residents.
NO WAY!
Built in 1952, the
Kennedybrücke, which
splits the Alster into
the Inner and Outer
lakes, also runs across
the tenth degree
of longitude and is
marked with a plaque.
Farhad Heydari
Hurghada
Egypt
DIALLING CODE +20
CURRENCY EGP
FLY FROM
Geneva,
London (LGW)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
The fare to Sakalla is
about EGP20, El Dahar
EGP25, and further
afi eld EGP35–EGP50.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
La Luna El Gouna
(Downtown El Gouna,
next to the Aquarium)
Based on the owner’s
many years’ experience
in Florence, the pizzas
here are truly Italian.
La Luna also serves
ultra-fresh salads,
delicious steaks and
homemade tiramisu.
Enjoy the range of
cocktails and liqueurs
and the awesome
tower-top view.
EXCLUSIVE Bua
Khao Thai Restaurant
(Movenpick Resort, El
Gouna, tel: 065 354
4501) Authentic Thai
dishes are cooked by
experienced Thai chefs.
Start with the satay
or a spicy soup, and
follow with the crispy
chilli beef. Seating is
indoors and around
the pool. Reservations
recommended.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY
Meshmesha Lounge
(Esplanada Mall,
Village Road) In the
heart of Village Road,
relax on the terrace
of Meshmesha with
a cold beer or glass of
juice. Should you get
peckish, the kitchen
does a mean pepper
steak. Enjoy while
indulging in a spot of
people-watching.
LATE & LIVELY
Calypso (El Hadaba
Road, tel: 065 344
9583) One of the
longest-established
clubs in Hurghada,
Calypso attracts top
local and international
DJs with regular theme
nights. The party rages
until 2am – later on
Fridays and Saturdays.
THIS MONTH
GO Just 40km south
of Hurghada is the
luxury resort of Soma
Bay. Enjoy a day at the
Thalasso spa or on
the championship golf
course at Les Cascades,
then try kitesurfi ng or
just enjoy the facilities
at the Sheraton.
NO WAY!
Pay a visit to the Blue
Moon Animal Shelter,
which fosters sick,
abandoned or stray
animals (including
cats, dogs, donkeys
and camels).
Denise Fletcher
Innsbruck
Austria
DIALLING CODE +43
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Bristol, Liverpool,
London (LGW)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €20.
Bus F runs to
the city every 15
minutes. Tickets: €2.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Thai Li
Ba (3 Marktgraben,
tel: 0512 567 888)
Picking something
off this Asian
SWAROVSKI
MUSEUM
SEE Spend a day
at Kristallwelten
Swarovski museum
and discover the
magic of crystals.
Admire art inspired
by Dalí and Picasso,
then head to the
park (Wattens).
restaurant’s versatile
menu can be
diffi cult. The goong
pad thai (rice dish
with prawns, fresh
vegetables and
peanuts) is just one of
many good options.
EXCLUSIVE
Weinhaus Happ
(14 Herzog Friedrich
Strasse, tel: 0512
582 980) Though the
prices at this small,
family-run restaurant
are not exorbitant, the
cuisine is fi rst class.
Go for the venison
escalope or fresh
calf kidneys.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY
Café Central (5
Gilmstrasse, tel:
0512 580 310) The
unique atmosphere
of this elegant café,
with its mirrors and
chandeliers, reminds
one of the Belle
Époque. Order an
espresso and a piece
of cake and enjoy.
LATE & LIVELY
Bacchus (18
Salurner Strasse,
tel: 0512 940 210)
This jolly bar, with its
relaxed atmosphere
and outgoing crowd,
is the centre of
Innsbruck’s lively
gay scene.
NO WAY!
Innsbruck Zoo is one
of the few in the
world specialised in
animals of the Alpine
regions. It is home
to more than 150
species and defi nitely
worth a visit.
Jovanna Urosevic
www.vans-penken-park.com
www.facebook.com/vanspenkenpark

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136 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
Inverness
UK
DIALLING CODE +44
CURRENCY £
FLY FROM
Bristol, London
(LGW, LTN)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs £20.
Jet buses
run every 30
minutes to the city
centre. Tickets: £3.50.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Kool
Runnings (14 Church
Street, tel: 01463 230
856) This is Scotland’s
fi rst Jamaican
restaurant. Serving
authentic cuisine, Kool
Runnings is the ideal
venue for a relaxed
evening that lets the
food do the talking.
Leave the suit jacket
in the closet and enjoy
exceptional food in
humble surroundings.
EXCLUSIVE River
House Restaurant
(1 Greig Street, tel:
01463 222 033)
Situated on the
riverbank, River House
creates indulgent
dishes with locally
sourced ingredients.
Whether it’s panseared
Isle of Harris
scallops, bouillabaisse
or a quartet of
Scottish cheeses,
there is something to
satisfy every palate.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY The
Ash (Station Square,
tel: 01463 231 926)
Whether the desire
is for a pint of lager
or a sophisticated
cocktail, Ash provides
an enviable variety
of beverages as well
as the infamous Ash
Splash cocktail.
LATE & LIVELY
The Room (73
Queensgate, tel: 01463
233 077) Complete an
evening of indulgence
with a drink at The
Room. Live bands
often entertain
customers at the
weekends, ensuring
a lively atmosphere.
THIS MONTH
GO The historic visitor
attraction at Culloden
is suitable for all the
family as it unveils the
bloody truth behind
the battle of Culloden
in 1746. The younger
children can enjoy reenacting
and learning
about the lives of those
living near Culloden
over 250 years ago.
(Culloden Moor, tel:
0844 493 2159).
NO WAY!
The population of
Inverness is around
65,000 and is one
of the fastest growing
in Scotland.
Beverley Tricker
Isle of Man
UK
DIALLING CODE +44
CURRENCY £
FLY FROM
Liverpool
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs £18.
Buses run
every half an
hour. Adult single to
Douglas £2.50.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 The
Shore Hotel (Gansey
Road, Port St Mary, tel:
01624 832 269) The
Manx mutton broth is
a popular draw on the
traditional menu at this
coastal pub. Order the
hearty fi sh soup, which
contains generous
helpings of locally
caught seafood, when
it is the day’s special.
EXCLUSIVE The
Mailbox (Capital
House, Circular Road,
Douglas, tel: 01624
614 000) Housed
in the former Isle
of Man Post Offi ce
headquarters, The
Mailbox lounge, bar
and grill delivers a
range of dining options
day and night. Treat
yourself to a fi rst-class
meat or seafood dish
from the plancher grill.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY The
White House (2
Tynwald Road, Peel,
tel: 01624 842 252) A
favourite with CAMRA
members, this familyrun,
19th-century pub
boasts up to nine real
ales on tap at a time.
Bag a cosy spot by
one of the open fi res
and settle in for a long
night of drinking.
LATE & LIVELY
Fusion (Callows
Yard, Castletown,
tel: 01624 827 798)
Providing a contrast to
Castletown’s traditional
pubs, this lively
modern bar attracts
sports fans with its
match coverage. Food
is served in the bar
during the day, with
an upstairs restaurant
open in the evenings.
THIS MONTH
SEE On 31 March,
travel on the Wizard’s
Express steam train
from Douglas or Port
Erin to Ballasalla for
magical activities,
inspired by the Harry
Potter fi lms, at nearby
King William’s College
(tel: 01624 662 525,
jaiom.im).
NO WAY!
Many Manx people
still call rats “long
tails” because an
old superstition has
it that mention of
the animals brings
fi shermen bad luck.
Kate Youde
Istanbul
Turkey
DIALLING CODE +90
CURRENCY Lira (TRY)
FLY FROM
Basel-Mulhouse,
London (LTN)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com. A
local taxi costs TRY50.
E3 buses run to
4 Levent, from
there take the metro.
Tickets: TRY4.50.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Bunk
(1B Guzelbahce Sokak,
Tesvikiye, tel: 0212
230 4730) Swish café
covering all bases from
pasta through fusion
and local standards.
PRESTIGE
HOTEL
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
For well over 20 years
now the Prestige has
been impressing
visitors with its fi ne
rooms and welcome
hospitality. From
€240, book at
hotels.easyJet.com.
EXCLUSIVE
Da Vittorio (130
Mesrutiyet Caddesi,
Sishane, tel: 0212
245 8817) Top-notch,
Italian-owned, fi nedining
joint. Menu
off ers traditional and
gourmet specialities
from all over Italy such
as gnocchi with squid
and shrimp. Not to
mention wines from
the world over.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Urban
(6 Kartal Sokak,
Galatasaray , tel: 0212
252 1325) This chilledout
café-bar is packed
at weekends. Popular
with media types and
wannabe intellectuals.
LATE & LIVELY
Babylon (3
Seyhbender Sokak,
Tunel, Beyoglu, tel:
0212 292 7368)
Istanbul’s premier
club venue with a full
programme of topnotch
acts spanning
indie, jazz, reggae,
world and dance
music, as well as local
up-and-coming artists.
THIS MONTH
SEE While a Country
is Changing is the
title of an exhibition
of modern Turkish art
on show at the Sakip
Sabanci Museum
throughout March.
NO WAY!
If Istanbul’s roads
appear overcrowded,
that’s because the city
boasts more cars than
residential buildings
(2.44 million).
David O’Byrne
Cumbria boasts the perfect
package for investors
For more information and to see what business sites and premises
are on offer visit www.investincumbria.co.uk

There are still places
where you can experience
the pleasure and thrill
of unpackaged discovery...
Book any room for a minimum 4 nights’ stay and
receive a spectacular discount of 30% off the official
room rates (Quote ref. EJET30SUM12). Not valid in
conjunction with any other offer or promotion.
EMELISSE HOTEL
Fiskardo, Kefalonia - Greece
Tel.: +30 26740 41200, Fax: +30 26740 41026
www.emelissehotel.com
PERANTZADA... 1811
Vathi, Ithaki - Greece
Tel.: +30 26740 33496, Fax: +30 26740 33493
www.perantzadahotel.com
www.vatel.ch
VATEL Switzerland
rue Marconi 19
1920 Martigny - Switzerland
tel +41 27 722 18 10
email admissions@vatel.ch

138 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
Jersey
UK
DIALLING CODE +44
CURRENCY £
FLY FROM
Glasgow,
Liverpool,
London (SEN)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs £16.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Dicq
Shak (Dicq Slipway, St
Helier, tel: 01534 730
273) A local institution,
the Dicq Shak is a
cross between a beach
café and an authentic
Thai restaurant. You
can sit on the sand
and eat Thai stir-fried
chicken with ginger.
EXCLUSIVE St
Brelade’s Bay Hotel
(La Route de la Baie,
tel: 01534 746 141)
Refurbished by new
owners, St Brelade’s
Bay Hotel features
an oak-panelled
restaurant overlooking
the bay. Head chef
Franz Hacker uses
fresh local ingredients,
particularly fi sh.
The pan-fried fi llet
of local bass topped
with sautéed tiger
prawns or lemon
sole and salmon with
asparagus fi lling
(£19.50) are delicious.
AFTER DARK
LATE & LIVELY
Rojo’s (10 Bond Street,
St Helier, tel: 01534 729
904) A wine bar, tapas
bar and restaurant,
there’s always plenty
going on at Rojo’s in the
centre of St Helier.
THIS MONTH
GO Spring is the
time to eat and walk
in Jersey. There are
special promotions
in many restaurants
and organised walks
to see the countryside
starting to blossom
(Jersey Tourism,
tel: 01534 448 800).
NO WAY!
Jersey’s banks look
after more than £500
billion belonging to
people all over the
world – that’s
£5.2m for every local.
Peter Body
LOW KEY
Grand Jersey (St
Helier, tel: 01534
722 301) The
Champagne Lounge
is the place for
afternoon tea and
a cup of Egyptian
mint tea followed
by a glass of bubbly.
Kos
Greece
DIALLING CODE +30
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
London (LGW),
Milan (MXP)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €38.
Up to six buses
depart from the
airport to Kos Town.
Tickets: €3.20.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Arap
(Platani village, tel:
22420 28442) The
oldest and most
established of four Kos-
Turkish run tavernas
around the square
here, Arap is great
fun to visit in a group,
with everyone sharing
mezze-sized platters of
Anatolian specialities
such as fried aubergine
with yoghurt topping.
EXCLUSIVE
Ambeli (2.5km east
of Tingaki beachfront,
tel: 22420 69682)
A well-loved rural
taverna doing local
specialities such as
arnaki ambelourgou
(vinter’s style lamb),
pykhti (brawn) and
yaprakia (stuff ed vine
leaves), washed down
with wine from the
adjacent vineyard.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Aenaos
(Platia Eleftherias)
This little café, tucked
into the base of the
Defterdar Mosque,
specialises in novelty
hot chocolates, teas
and coff ees, especially
Greek coff ee made
over hot sand. It also
off ers unrivalled
people-watching and
a nice suntrap.
LATE & LIVELY
Hamam (1 Akti
Kountourioti) This
popular nightspot
used to be a Turkish
bath and some of
the authentic interior
still remains. The
playlist encompasses
everything from jazz
and rock to more
traditional Greek
music. After midnight,
the noise curfew
moves everyone inside
for live DJ sessions.
THIS MONTH
GO Paleo Pyli,
17km south-east of
Kos Town, was Kos’
medieval, pirate-proof
capital. Among the
ruined houses are a few
14th-century chapels,
with the lowest
one (Arhangelos)
preserving frescoes.
NO WAY!
Western Kos is
blanketed by volcanic
tuff , deposited
160,000 years ago by
an underwater caldera.
Marc Dubin
Krakow
Poland
DIALLING CODE +48
CURRENCY Zloty (PLN)
FLY FROM
Belfast (BFS),
Bristol, Edinburgh,
Liverpool, London
(LGW), Paris (CDG)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs
about PLN80.
Trains leave every
30 minutes for
the main station from
4.24am–00.15am.
Tickets: PLN6.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Dynia
(20 Ulica Krupnicza,
tel: 012 430 0838)
A sleek, contemporary
space with a pumpkin
fetish (Dynia means
“pumpkin”), this
popular haunt does
a good range of
large breakfasts.
EXCLUSIVE Pod
Aniolami (35 Ulica
Grodzka, tel: 012 421
3999) Service has
been known to be
changeable, but on a
good day you’re onto
a winner. Tried-andtested
hits include the
zurek soup and the
“noblemen’s kebabs”.
The covered courtyard
is the obvious
lunchtime choice, while
by night the medieval
cellars beckon.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Cafe
Szafe (10 Ulica
Felicjanek) With
its series of open
wardrobes and
cheerily painted walls,
this café might well
have appealed to CS
Lewis. A lot of beerdrinking
gets done
here. Very Cracovian.
LATE & LIVELY
Prozak (6 Plac
Dominikanski, tel: 012
429 1128) Located
amid kebab shops,
Prozak is a wellestablished
den for
committed clubbers.
You’ll hear house,
hip hop, dubstep and
more, and meet plenty
of young partiers.
THIS MONTH
SEE Culture vultures
can enjoy such
varied events this
month as the Krakow
Reggae Festival (9–10
March) and the 17th
Nationwide Festival
of Animated Films
(OFAFA) from the
22nd–24th.
NO WAY!
A Portuguese historian
named Manuel Rosa
recently advanced the
theory that celebrated
explorer Christopher
Columbus was in fact
the son of a Polish King.
Columbus’ alleged
grandpa, King Ladislas
II, is entombed in
Wawel Cathedral.
Nick Hodge/
cracow-life.com

More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
Lamezia
Italy
DIALLING CODE +39
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Milan (MXP),
Paris (ORY)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €20.
Routes 4 and 5
go to the centre.
Tickets: €0.77.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Villa
Marinella (Via
Villaggio Racise, tel:
0961 922 008) For an
authentic Calabrian
dining experience,
head to the heart of
La Sila National Park
and prepare to enjoy
an evening’s feast at
Villa Marinella. Local
favourites include
Sila-grown porcini
mushrooms and
an impressive
house wine.
EXCLUSIVE New
Meeting Ristorante
(165 Contrada
Campo, tel: 0961 998
512) Chef Massimo
is known for creating
fresh, innovative
seafood dishes that
locals love. Try the
grouper ravioli or
shrimp and burrata
risotto, or order an
assaggi (tasting
selection) and try
them both.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Bar
Banshee (Piazza
Mercato Vecchio,
Lamezia Terme) Bar
Banshee features all
kinds of music, but
it’s especially popular
with the alternativeexperimental
crowd.
Entry is €5. Closed
on Mondays.
LATE & LIVELY
People (25 Viale
Conti Ruff o, tel:
328 377 4807) This
lively disco has
theme nights every
night of the week to
suit all tastes, but
Latin American
night, typically held
on Fridays, is a
local favourite.
THIS MONTH
GO The Ragnanello
Gorge located in
Civita in the Pollino
Mountains (province
of Cosenza) is the
deepest gorge in
Europe. Trekking and
canyoning are popular
in spring and summer.
NO WAY!
Sybaris (modern-day
Sibari, located on the
Ionian Coast in the
province of Cosenza)
was the fi rst and
most prosperous
Magna Graecia
settlement. It dates
back to 720BC.
Cherrye Moore/
my-bellavita.com
Lanzarote
Spain
DIALLING CODE +34
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Liverpool,
London (LGW),
Madrid
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €12.
Routes 22 and
23, buses stop at
Playa del Reducto and
Arrecife’s bus station,
from 7am–10.25pm.
Tickets: €1.20.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Bar
Stop (Calle La Cuesta,
Yaiza) This tiny bar has
been selling tasty local
tapas since 1890. It is
so unassuming that if
you were to blink, you
could easily walk past
without even noticing
it (it’s across the road
from the church).
EXCLUSIVE
Quintins Restaurante
(25 Avenida Juan
Carlos I, tel: 928 515
755) Quintins off ers
delicious, wellpresented,
high-end
modern European
cuisine prepared using
the freshest produce.
It’s expensive but then
again it is one of the
best restaurants in
Puerto del Carmen.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Bar
Avenida (Avenida
Papagayo, Playa
Blanca) Located on the
Playa Blanca’s main
street, this simple
terrace bar is the
perfect place to meet
before an evening out
in Playa Blanca.
LATE & LIVELY
Aqua (Avenida Fred
Olsen, Arrecife) Aqua,
Lanzarote’s newest
club, is a cut above
the rest and defi nitely
worth a visit. As it’s
in Arrecife, there’s a
more Latin feel to both
the crowd and the
music. Open Friday
and Saturday nights.
THIS MONTH
GO Puerto Calero,
Lanzarote’s fi rst
purpose-built
yachting marina, has
gone from strength
to strength in recent
years. The waterside
promenade off ers a
good selection of bars,
cafés and restaurants
where you can sit and
enjoy the picturesque
surroundings.
NO WAY!
The Canarian
Houbara bustard,
an endangered
endemic subspecies,
is limited to the
islands of Lanzarote
and Fuerteventura.
The entire population
consists of 700 birds.
DiscoverLanzarote.com
DESTINATION GUIDES | 139
Leeds-
Bradford UK
DIALLING CODE +44
CURRENCY £
FLY FROM
Geneva
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs £20.
Both cities are
serviced by
buses, running every
30 minutes. Tickets:
£2.50 single.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Art’s
Cafe Bar (42 Call
Lane, tel: 0113 243
8243) This relaxed
bar-bistro is a popular
spot with the young
professional crowd.
HEPWORTH
GALLERY
GO The Hepworth
Gallery holds a
collection of 40
sculptures by local
artist Barbara
Hepworth, alongside
works by her
contemporaries and
international artists.
Make sure you try the
Yorkshire plate for a
true taste of the area
including famous
Wensleydale cheese.
EXCLUSIVE
Vennell’s Restaurant
(7 Silver Street,
Masham, Ripon, tel:
01765 689 000)
With two AA rosettes
and mentions in the
Good Food Guide,
this is one restaurant
to book in advance.
Head chef Jon Vennell
spent his early life in
Switzerland before
moving to Leeds. In
2005 he opened his
own establishment,
determined to serve
fresh local produce
served to perfection.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY The
Cuthbert Brodrick
(99 Portland Crescent)
The Cuthbert Brodrick
takes its name from the
architect who designed
Leeds Town Hall and
the Corn Exchange.
This bar serves great
drinks and you’ll fi nd
a vibrant atmosphere.
LATE & LIVELY
Nation of
Shopkeepers (27–37
Cookridge Street)
Beers and real ales
complement DJs
and live bands once
the sun sets. Nation
of Shopkeepers is
defi nitely the place to
see the cool people.
NO WAY!
In the 19th century
Bradford was famed
as the wool capital of
the world.
Gina Davies

140 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
Lille
France
DIALLING CODE +33
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Nice, Toulouse
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Prebook your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €20.
The Navette
bus to the city
centre. Tickets: €7.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
L’Auberge du Temps
Jadis (286 Bis Rue
Solférino, tel: 03
2052 5209) With an
outdoor terrace, this
typical estaminet has
good old-fashioned
hearty local and
regional specialities
on the menu at very
reasonable prices.
EXCLUSIVE Le
Sébastopol (1 Place
Sébastopol, tel: 03
205 7050) In this
top Michelin-starred
restaurant, maitre chef
Jean-Luc Germond
provides gastronomic
dishes in the lovely artdeco
dining room. The
menus, from seafood
to innovative fusion
cuisine, are as wide
ranging as the wine
list, which has more
than 500 choices
from top international
vineyards available
from its large cellar.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Au Point
Central (1 Bis Place
des Patiniers, tel:
03 2051 2978) This
friendly bar with a wide
terrace in the heart
of the city is perfect
for that early-evening
drink before heading
out on the town.
LATE & LIVELY
Le Detour (61 Rue
de Fontenoy, tel: 03
2053 4806) A vibrant
bar with diff erent live
bands playing rock,
jazz, and much more
most weekends. Open
until late, it’s popular
with the many students
living in the city.
THIS MONTH
SEE The Palais
des Beaux-Arts of
Lille, one of France’s
fi rst museums, has
excellent collections
of paintings, ceramics,
and tapestries from
the Middle Ages to the
20th century (Place
de la République,
tel: 03 2006 7800).
NO WAY!
The Immelmann
turn was perfected
in the skies above
Lille by World War I
German Flying ace
Max Immelmann,
who brought down
so many Allied
planes that he was
nicknamed “the
Eagle of Lille”.
Nick Haslam
Lisbon
Portugal
DIALLING CODE +351
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Amsterdam,
Asturias, Barcelona,
Basel-Mulhouse,
Berlin, Bordeaux,
Bristol, Copenhagen,
Edinburgh, Geneva,
Liverpool, London (LGW,
LTN), Lyon, Madeira,
Madrid, Milan (MXP),
Paris (CDG), Rome,
Toulouse, Venice
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €25.
The Aerobus
leaves every 20
minutes. Tickets: €3.50.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15
Restaurante Outeiral
(53 Rua Saraiva de
Carvalho, Campo de
Ourique, tel: 21 397
1916) Friendly waiter
Pedro speaks English
and will guide you
through the incredibly
cheap and delicious
specials at this lively
neighbourhood eatery.
UP TO €30 Pano
de Boca (Rua Ramalho
do Ortigão, tel: 21 3384
0030) Something of
a rarity in Lisbon, this
German restaurant
attached to a theatre
serves a mix of German
staples as well as more
adventurous fare.
Spacious and modern
with a hint of drama.
UP TO €50 Bistro
100 Maneiras
(9 Largo da Trindade)
This latest venture by
Yugoslav chef Llubomir
Stanisic is on the
fringes of the Bairro
Alto and is open till
2am. Its adventurous
menu off ers both
Ottoman specialities
and lots of Portuguese
and Mediterranean
fare. A lively place to
eat and drink either
before or after plunging
into the delights of the
surrounding district.
EXCLUSIVE
Restaurante Cipriani
(Olissippo Lapa Palace,
4 Rua do Pau de
Bandeira, tel: 21 394
9494) This elegant
dining room, housed in
a 19th-century palace
set amid romantic
ATLIS AVENIDA
HOTEL
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
Five-star luxury in the
Portuguese capital,
facing the iconic São
Jorge Castle. This
boutique hotel has
70 luxurious rooms.
From €160, book at
hotels.easyJet.com.
gardens, serves a
luxurious menu that’s
predominantly Italian
but usually includes a
Portuguese dish or two.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY
A Brasileira (120 Rua
Garrett, Chiado, tel: 21
346 9541) Once the
haunt of artists and
intellectuals, this is
the place to have your
photo taken with the
statue of modernist
poet Fernando Pessoa
as you sip your drink,
listen to the buskers
and watch life pass by.
LIVE MUSIC
Hennessy’s (32–38
Rua Cais do Sodré)
Recently taken over
and revamped by its
new Irish owner, this
bar often has live music
in the evenings from
Tuesdays to Saturdays.
There’s also bar food
and, of course,
draught Guinness.
LATE & LIVELY
Discoteca Trumps
(104B Rua da
Imprensa Nacional,
tel: 21 397 1059) This
hetero-friendly gay
club has long been
one of Lisbon’s most
popular. The club
attracts a mix of age
groups and sexual
orientations.
THIS MONTH
SHOP If your doll’s
poorly or teddy’s arm is
hanging off , or indeed
if you require some tiny
furniture or a miniature
tea set, this is the place
for you. The Doll’s
Hospital was founded
in 1830 and continues
FILLER ADVERT
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to minister to the
needs of our inanimate
friends. A gem
(7 Praça da Figueira).
SEE Canadian band
Simple Plan will be
doing their fi rst Lisbon
gig at the Coliseum on
11 March (tel: 21 324
0580) and Puccini’s
Madama Butterfl y will
be at the São Carlos
Opera House from
13–25 March
(tel: 21 325 3045).
GO The Bairro Alto is
a must. An aristocratic
neighbourhood dating
mostly from the 17th
century, its warren of
streets is now home to
one of Europe’s liveliest
centres of nightlife.
Countless bars,
restaurants, galleries
and designer shops
rub shoulders with
old-style grocers.
ESCAPE The former
royal Palace of Queluz
is a baroque gem
surprisingly situated
in a rather unlovely
suburb. Protected by
its formal gardens
it’s a place to catch
the 18th-century
aristocratic feeling
of Lisbon. The old
kitchen has been
converted into
a classy restaurant.
NO WAY!
Henry Fielding, author
of Tom Jones, came to
Lisbon in 1754 for his
health but the city had
the opposite eff ect
and he died within
a few months. He set
down his impressions
in his Journal of a
Voyage to Lisbon.
Jonathan Weightman

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142 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
Liverpool
UK
DIALLING CODE +44
CURRENCY £
FLY FROM
Alicante,
Amsterdam,
Barcelona, Belfast
(BFS), Berlin, Bodrum,
Bordeaux, Brussels,
Faro, Fuerteventura,
Geneva, Gibraltar,
Grenoble, Ibiza,
Innsbruck, Isle of
Man, Jersey, Krakow,
Lanzarote, Lisbon,
Lyon, Madrid, Majorca,
Málaga, Malta,
Menorca, Naples, Nice,
Paris (CDG), Rhodes,
Salzburg, Tallinn
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs £15.
The 500 departs
every 30
minutes for the city
centre. Tickets: £2.80.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15 Bistro
Franc (Hanover Street,
tel: 0151 708 9993)
The decor is rustic
French with classic
Gallic dishes, like boeuf
bourguignon, to match.
The three-course
lunch rapide provides
astonishing value at £9.
UP TO €30 Il Forno
(132 Duke Street, tel:
0151 709 4002) It
may be the size of a
small aircraft hangar,
but there is a warmth
about Il Forno that
makes it a pleasant
place. Pizzas prepared
in the oven made in the
form of a Romanesque,
fi re-breathing mask,
are recommended.
UP TO €50
Chaophraya
(Liverpool One, tel:
0151 707 6323)
Handy for the shops
and the Albert Dock,
Chaophraya is a
superior-looking Thai
restaurant with a
superior-tasting menu.
An extensive range of
dishes includes a good
vegetarian selection.
EXCLUSIVE
Fraiche (11 Rose
Mount, Oxton, Wirral,
tel: 0151 652 2914)
The region’s only
Michelin-starred
restaurant is easily
reached and worth the
eff ort for innovative
and painstakingly
prepared food like
slow-cooked pork
belly with raisins.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY The
Brink (15–21 Parr
Street, tel: 0151 703
0582) The Brink is
the city’s fi rst “dry”
bar but drab it’s not.
Originally intended as
a stimulating venue
away from temptation
for recovering addicts
– with a delightful
range of non-alcoholic
cocktails – the
welcoming ambience
and excellent food
is attracting patrons
from all walks of life.
LIVE MUSIC The
Cavern Club (10
Mathew Street, tel:
0151 236 1965) Up at
the top of the checklist
for Beatles fans,
the Cavern is where
the Fab Four fi rst
attracted a following.
Nowadays, you can
catch everything from
tribute acts to up-andcoming
bands every
afternoon and evening.
LATE & LIVELY
Aloha Bar (22 Colquitt
Street, tel: 0151 706
0070) A little bit of
escapism amid the
economic gloom,
Liverpool’s only Tiki
bar recreates exotic
Hawaiian havens. Relax
among hula girls, palm
trees and pina coladas
served in pineapples.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Located
among other quirky,
small-scale retailers,
Hatzb4uassk has
CROWNE PLAZA
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
Housed in a stunning
art deco former
airport terminal,
next to John Lennon
airport, there’s a real
sense of history here.
From €83, book at
hotels.easyJet.com.
the best selection
of headwear on
Merseyside, with hats
for any occasion from
berets to bowlers,
trappers to trilbies
(Grand Central Hall,
Renshaw Street).
SEE The theatre
adaptation of Arthur
Ransome’s classic
1930 novel Swallows
and Amazons is
winning rave reviews.
The family musical
adventure comes
to the city’s Playhouse
Theatre on 27–31
March (tel: 0151
709 4776).
GO Bold Street is
a mecca for lovers
of interesting,
independent traders.
A stroll up the street
takes you past cafés
like the award-winning
Bold Street Coff ee
and retailers such as
alternative bookshop
News From Nowhere.
ESCAPE Artists and
musicians are among
those to breathe new
life into the former mill
town Hebden Bridge,
now well known for its
myriad independent
shops, galleries and
cafés. Surrounded by
good walking country,
it is reached in under
90 minutes.
NO WAY!
Celebrations to mark
the world’s fi rst
passenger railway,
from Liverpool to
Manchester, were
marred when city MP
William Huskisson
became the world’s
fi rst railway fatality.
Gerry Corner
Ljubljana
Slovenia
DIALLING CODE +386
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
London (STN),
Paris (CDG)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €45.
Buses leave
every hour till
8pm. Tickets: €4.10.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
Tramvaj Ekspres
Pizzeria (10
Mladinskih Delovnih
Brigad, tel: 01 916
407) Surely the
most unusual place
in Ljubljana for pizza.
Hop aboard and join
the local student
brigade on this
old tram in the
university district.
The pizzas all have
a super thin base and
a complex list
of toppings
EXCLUSIVE JB
(17 Miklošiceva Cesta,
tel: 01 433 1358)
Serious destinationdining
worth melting
your credit card for
in the city centre.
Superb seafood
from the country’s
bijou coastline is the
star – the sea bass
with Istrian truffl e is
sublime – and the
Slovenian wines
are spot on.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Dvorni
Bar (Dvorni Trg,
tel: 01 251 1256) A
favourite with locals,
and no wonder – this
gem by the river
is equally adept at
brewing great coff ee
for breakfast as it
is serving a perfect
glass of white wine
from the Vipava
Valley later on.
LATE & LIVELY As
Lounge (6 Nazorjeva,
tel: 01 425 8822) This
party zone is hidden
beneath the city
centre streets. Head
here with the local
cool crowd for some
live DJ action and
a lot of unpretentious
partying.
THIS MONTH
GO Now that the
fi rst fl ickers of spring
are showing, head
to the bracing banks
of the city’s river,
Ljubljanica, where
the pavement cafés
and restaurants are
already gearing up
for summer.
NO WAY!
Legend has it that the
quartet of dragons
on Ljubljana’s
eponymous bridge
wag their tails
whenever a virgin
strolls across.
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The Alizonne diet was one of the
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after
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Alizonne Glasgow
Regency Medical Clinic,
11 Park Circus, Glasgow, G3 6AX.

144 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
London
UK
DIALLING CODE +44
CURRENCY £
FLY FROM
Aberdeen, Agadir,
Alicante, Almería,
Amman, Amsterdam,
Antalya, Asturias,
Athens, Barcelona,
Bari, Basel-Mulhouse,
Berlin, Belfast, Biarritz,
Bilbao, Bodrum,
Bologna, Bordeaux,
Budapest, Cagliari
(Sardinia), Catania,
Cologne/Bonn,
Copenhagen, Corfu,
Corsica (Ajaccio),
Corsica (Bastia),
Crete (Chania), Crete
(Heraklion), Corfu,
Cyprus (Larnaca),
Cyprus (Paphos),
Dalaman, Dortmund,
Dubrovnik, Düsseldorf,
Edinburgh, Faro,
Fuerteventura, Geneva,
Gibraltar, Glasgow, Gran
Canaria, Grenoble,
Hamburg, Hurghada,
Ibiza, Innsbruck,
Istanbul, Inverness,
Izmir, Jersey, Kefalonia,
Kefl avik, Kos, Krakow,
Lanzarote, La Rochelle,
Lisbon, Ljubljana, Luxor,
Lyon, Madeira, Madrid,
Majorca, Málaga,
Malta, Marrakech,
Marseille, Menorca,
Milan (MXP, LIN),
Montpellier, Munich,
Murcia, Mykonos,
Nantes, Naples, Nice,
Olbia, Palermo, Paris
(CDG), Pisa, Porto,
Prague, Rhodes,
Rome, Salzburg,
Santorini, Seville,
Sharm El Sheikh, Sofi a,
Split, Tallinn, Tel Aviv,
Tenerife, Thessaloniki,
Toulouse, Valencia,
Venice, Verona, Vienna,
Zagreb, Zante, Zürich
FROM THE
AIRPORT
LUTON
TAXI
A local taxi costs
£80.
National Express
coaches leave
Victoria every half an
hour. Buy onboard,
tickets: £15.50 single;
£22.50 return.
Trains from Luton
Airport Parkway
go to London St
Pancras. Tickets: £13
(fi rstcapital
connect.co.uk).
GATWICK
TAXI
A local taxi costs
£70 to London.
The Gatwick
Express to
London Victoria runs
every 15 minutes from
4.35am–1.35am.
Buy onboard.
SOUTHEND
TAXI
A local taxi costs
£130 to London.
Regular trains
travel to
Liverpool Street.
Tickets: £15 single.
STANSTED
TAXI
A local taxi costs
£100 to London.
National Express
runs a bus service
to London Victoria.
Tickets: £17 return.
The Stansted
Express runs
every 15 minutes until
00.30am. Exclusive
easyJet discounted
fares available when
you buy onboard.
For transport in
London, Oyster
cards are available
with £20 of credit. Buy
on board, tickets: £23.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15 Feng
Sushi (Festival
Terrace, Southbank
Centre, SE1, tel: 0207
261 0001) With a
sustainable menu that
changes six times a
year, a sushi fi x at this
very zen canteen is not
only guilt-free, but it
also throws up some
unexpectedly delicious
taste combinations:
think cucumber discs
topped with yellowtail
sashimi and a salad
of wakame, pickled
jalapeño, coriander,
avocado and yuzu
kimchee dressing. You
can also sample your
favourite nigiri and
maki rolls in 12-piece
box sets from £11.
UP TO €30 Angel
and Crown (58 St
Martin’s Lane, WC2, tel:
020 7748 5244)
Dining in busy Covent
Garden can often be
hit or miss, making this
traditional pub a real
fi nd for those looking
for a guaranteed good
eat. Downstairs is
drinking only, while
there’s room for almost
20 people to chow
down in the compact
space upstairs. The
close tables encourage
customers to chat, or
gush, over their food
– which is seemingly
British fodder but with
a few international
favourites thrown
in too. Starters of
snails or onion and
cider soup are good
options, and mains,
such as the leek tart
or something from the
specials board, should
be accompanied with
macaroni cheese,
tempura onion rings
and a glass of white.
UP TO €50
MEATliquor (76
Welbeck Street, W1G,
tel: 020 7224 4239)
This boozy haven for
carnivores is by far
the trendiest new
contender on the
Marylebone restaurant
scene. The brainchild
of the duo behind
London’s infamous
Meatwagon burger
van, the loud and
grungy interiors are as
much of an explosion
on your senses as
the mouth-watering
menu of burgers –
the dead hippie, two
mustard-fried patties
with melted cheese,
ROCHESTER
ESCAPE Charles
Dickens’ bicentennial
is one reason to
make the trip to
his hometown of
Rochester. Browse
the antique shops
and tour the 12thcentury
castle.
noodles | rice dishes | dumplings
salads and more! visit wagamama.com
is a sure winner – and
dishes inspired by
American soul food
(deep-fried pickles
with a blue cheese
dip). But as with all
cool kids on the block,
there’s a strict noreservations
policy, so
be prepared to queue.
EXCLUSIVE
Morgan M (50 Long
Lane, EC1, tel: 020
7609 3560) Already
well established in
nearby Islington,
the chilled-out chef
Morgan Meunier has
now opened shop in
the Barbican, near
Smithfi eld market. And
he’s created the same
relaxed, sophisticated
ambience in the
upstairs room.
Downstairs, the tables
overlook the kitchen
and a tapas menu is
served in a buzzier
atmosphere than fans
of the original French
eatery will be familiar
with. Guests are easily
persuaded to try the
tasting menu, and each
dish is impeccably
presented as it comes
away from the kitchen.
The winter menu’s
highlights are the fi llet
of wild sea bass served
on an imaginative, but
fantastic carrot and
ginger risotto with
lemon and saff ron
broth and the dark
chocolate moulleux
made with 70%
chocolate. Savour the
rest of your dessert
wine and coff ees with
a selection from the
locally sourced cheese
trolley – an exceptional
dining experience.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Hive
(11–13 Brixton Station
Road, SW9, tel: 020
7274 8383) Not a bad
little spot for a drink,
just by Brixton tube
station. The popular
Brixton Academy is
nearby, but The Hive’s
tucked-away location
means that you never
have to struggle at the
bar with all the pre-gig
revellers. The venue
has a more café feel to
it than other pubs in
the area, and staff take
orders from seated
groups sipping mojitos.
If the Academy’s
programme isn’t to
your inclinations, then
maybe The Hive’s
selection will suffi ce,
which ranges from jazz
or drum ‘n’ bass DJs to
live little-known bands.
LIVE MUSIC
XOYO (32–37
Cowper Street, EC2)
On the outskirts of
Shoreditch, by Old
Street, this club was
given a kick-start
by its location alone
when it opened last
year. Now, it’s surely
the music policy
that is its secret to
continued success.
Club nights featuring
DJs fi ll the weekend
rosta, but mid-week
the stage is left
entirely to touring
bands. John Digweed
has played the decks
in the past, while
March sees MC and
rapper Wale perform
on the 27th. The room
is always crowded by a
clientèle, who seem to
be more concerned

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146 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
London
UK
over the length
of its super skinny
jeans than the snaking
queue outside.
LATE & LIVELY
The Collection (264
Brompton Road, SW3,
tel: 020 7225 1212)
With high ceilings and
fl ashy interiors, there’s
only one borough
this place could be
seen in, and that’s
Chelsea. Guests at
The Collection are
well-heeled and sip
only the fi nest cocktails
and Champagne.
There’s certainly an
air of unadulterated
pleasure and luxury
fl oating through the air,
along with a giant gold
and silver chandelier,
which almost threatens
to fall. Get there
before 7.30pm for the
aperitivo menu and
order the watermelon
cooler with a food
platter of Italian meats.
THIS MONTH
SHOP For those who
are visiting the capital
for the fi rst time, there
is no foodie experience
quite so diverse as
Borough Market. Held
Thursday–Saturday,
the plethora of stalls
varies from quality
British meat and
pie sellers, to spice
vendors and everything
in between. Go with a
big, hungry stomach
and attempt starters,
main course and
desserts as you pass
through the market
under the arches of the
London Bridge railway
tracks – fi nish off with
a prosecco or a rest in
a neighbouring pub
(8 Southwark Street).
SEE You don’t have to
have seen the fi lm to
appreciate Billy Elliot
the musical, which
continues to be brilliant
even after years on the
west-end stage. The
young cast of actors
is both adorable and
super talented in a
performance packed
full of dancing. More
adults than kids fi ll the
seats of the Victoria
Palace Theatre, proving
the show’s appeal to
all (from £19.50,
Victoria Street).
GO Thorpe Park
reopens its huge
gates on 15 March and
there’ll be plenty of
thrill-seekers waiting
outside. Stomachturning
rollercoasters
with fantastic names
such as “stealth” and
“colossus” stand next
to log fl umes and
nemesis rides. Then
there’s the “saw alive”
experience – a live
action horror maze of
six rooms decked out
just like the Saw fi lm
set, and with actors
running after the
terrifi ed thrill-seekers
to boost (Surrey,
thorpepark.com).
NO WAY!
The City of London,
the fi nancial hub of the
country, is just one mile
square in total, and
was once Londinium,
the Roman’s fi rst
settlement in the area.
Amy Dennis
Luxor
Egypt
DIALLING CODE +20
CURRENCY EGP
FLY FROM
London (LGW)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs
EGP50 to the east
bank, and EGP100
to the west bank.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
Baladina Cafe
(El Tayeb Street,
between Medina
and TV Street, tel:
016 282 1377) Off
the beaten track but
worth fi nding. The
owners are amazingly
welcoming, the drinks
are fantastic and they
only use seasonal
fruits. Cocktails are
made with love and
taste delicious.
EXCLUSIVE
Castello (El Roda
Al Sharifa) Great
Italian in “Little
Britain Street”, an
area renowned for
the best range of
tourist restaurants in
Luxor. This particular
one is the best
Italian on the street.
The delicate meat
lasagne is particularly
recommended.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY 7 Days
7 Ways (near the
Sheraton) Very good
vegetarian options
combined with great
steaks and fi sh
dishes. Popular and
welcoming and great
service. Non smoking
with separate bar.
LATE & LIVELY
Nefertari Bar
(opposite the Hilton at
Karnak) Good prices
(especially compared
to the Hilton) Nefertari
also serves food,
including the best
cheeseburger in
Luxor. The owner is
a born raconteur.
THIS MONTH
GO The Temple of
Merenptah is just
by the ticket offi ce
and may not look
like much from the
road, but it’s actually
really interesting
with a museum,
underground display
areas and a storage
shed. Restored by the
Swiss, it’s well-labelled
and understandable.
Merenptah, the 13th
son of Ramses II
(Ramses the Great),
was his successor.
NO WAY!
March is the windy
time in Luxor. In fact,
you might even see
rain! They say that
the wind, called the
khumaseen, blows
for 50 days. The
wind whips up the
sand, and sometimes
sandstorms obscure
the landscape.
Jane Akshar
Lyon
France
DIALLING CODE +33
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Agadir,
Barcelona, Berlin,
Biarritz, Bordeaux,
Brest, Bristol,
Brussels, Casablanca,
Corsica (Ajaccio)
Corsica (Bastia),
Edinburgh, Ibiza,
Lisbon, Liverpool,
London (LGW, STN),
Madrid, Marrakech,
Milan (MXP), Nantes,
Nice, Olbia, Palermo,
Porto, Prague, Rome,
Toulouse, Venice
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €55.
The Rhônexpress
Express goes to
Lyon Part Dieu train
station. Tickets: €13.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15 Le
Comptoir des Filles
(8 Quai des Célestins,
tel: 04 7838 0330)
Simply cooked dishes,
using local ingredients
and inspirations from
further afi eld, make
this wine-bar-bistro
a great lunch stop.
UP TO €30
La Bourse (45–47
Rue de la Bourse,
tel: 04 7882 9286)
Bustling venue serving
wok-fried specialities.
If you’re inclined to
spend a few hours
imbibing with the
trendy crowd in the
adjoining bar, it makes
the perfect soirée.
UP TO €50
Balthaz’art (7 Rue des
Pierres, tel: 04 7207
0888) Renaissancemeets-modern
best
sums up both the
food and decor at this
fun restaurant. The
menus will have your
gastronomic senses
mesmerised thanks
to the creative cuisine
with Mediterranean
and Asian infl uences.
Be sure to reserve.
EXCLUSIVE La
Mere Brazier (12
Rue Royale, tel: 04
7823 1720) Opened in
1921 by the legendary
Eugénie Brazier, this
well-known restaurant
was recently taken
over by the talented
young chef Mathieu
Viannay and was
rapidly awarded
HOTEL DU
HELDER
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
For a simple stay
in this beautiful
French city, try Hotel
du Helder. It has a
central location and
a warm welcome.
From €50, book at
hotels.easyJet.com.
ROOMS AND ROUNDS NOW AVAILABLE ONLINE.
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148 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
Lyon
France
two stars by the
Michelin guide a few
months later. Expect
classic dishes revisited
with modernity and
alternative ingredients
served up with an
impressive wine list
carefully selected
to suit all palates.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Le Broc’
Café (2 Place de
l’Hopital, tel: 04 7240
6401) If the weather’s
nice, the terrace is a
great little place to
chat and sip a glass
of wine over a bulging
charcuterie platter.
A popular hangout for
locals after work.
LIVE MUSIC Hot
Club (26 Rue Lanterne,
1st, tel: 04 7839 5474)
This mellow cavern fi lls
out every weekend with
locals and visitors alike,
who come to enjoy its
renowned jazz sounds.
LATE & LIVELY
Sound Factory (73
Rue du Bourbonnais)
Lyon’s take on a venue
that resembles The
Ministry of Sound.
International DJs, VIP
alcoves, pricey drinks
and the very best of
the latest tunes boom
through the place until
the early hours.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Between Rues
Edouard Herriot (2nd)
and the mile-long
Rue de la République,
you’ll fi nd entrances
to quaint arcades. The
glass-roofed Passage
de l’Argue is full of
old-fashioned artisans
including milliners
and cutlers, who now
share the space with
more modern trades.
SEE Ballet lovers
are in for a treat as
Lyon’s impressive
Amphitheatre 3000
welcomes the Moscow
Theatre Ballet (14
March), the Cuban
ballet (27th) and
Ravel’s Bolero (28th).
GO One of
France’s oldest and
most established
international fairs
takes place from the
16–26 March. The
Foire Internationale de
Lyon, now in its 94th
year, expects to draw
in almost a quarter
of a million visitors
to take advantage of
exhibits on everything
from home, wellbeing
and leisure.
ESCAPE The
car-free Beaujolais
Voie Verte, stretching
from Beaujea to
St Jean d’Ardières,
off ers seven circuits
to discover the real
Beaujolais countryside.
From Belleville head
onwards to Château
de Corcelles – a
lovely detour from
the vineyards.
NO WAY!
A local association
has awarded the
“Authentique Bouchon
Lyonnais” label to 22
restaurants. The award
considers the quality
of the food and wine,
the decor and the
owners’ personalities.
John Brown
Madeira
Portugal
DIALLING CODE +351
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Bristol, Lisbon,
London (LGW, STN)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Enjoy lunch with us.
Come for dinner, stay for the night.
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €30.
The Aerobus
goes to the main
hotel area. Tickets: €5.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
Restaurante Quinta
das Cruzes (31 Rua
Mouraria, tel: 291 740
670) In the gardens
of this excellent
house museum is a
café-restaurant with
dazzling views over
Funchal. It’s a sublime
lunch spot for grilled
meats, pasta or
risotto, or you can just
pop in for a drink.
EXCLUSIVE Quinta
do Furão (Achada do
Gramacho, Santana,
tel: 291 570 100) In
the north of Madeira,
the spectacular
heights of this cliff top
restaurant are only
matched by the quality
of its cuisine. Start
with a consommé of
pheasant with quails
eggs, move on to baked
sea bass with fennel
and asparagus or local
beef cutlets, and round
it off with local cheeses.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Joe’s Bar
(Quinta Penha França,
Rua Imperatriz Dona
Amélia, tel: 291 204
650) Joe’s Bar has a
distinctly colonial feel:
enjoy a cocktail with
background piano
music in the fragrant,
semi-tropical gardens.
LATE & LIVELY
Copacabana (Rua
Imperatriz Dona
Amélia, tel: 291 233
111) Part of Oscar
Niemeyer’s casino
complex, Copacabana
serves up a suitably
fl amboyant mixture of
dazzling lights, catchy
sounds and a healthy
mixture of locals and
tourists having a
good time until the
small hours.
THIS MONTH
SEE Canhas, west
of Funchal, hosts its
annual Sugar Cane
Fair this month,
which, as well as
displaying its sweet
crop, includes
traditional food and
drinks stalls, live
music and various
activities. March also
sees Porto Santo’s
Columbo Marathon
and the Iberian Cup
Long Triathlon.
NO WAY!
It’s claimed that the
American Declaration
of Independence was
toasted with a glass
of Madeira wine.
Matthew Hancock
Madrid
Spain
DIALLING CODE +34
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Amsterdam,
Basel-Mulhouse, Berlin,
Bilbao, Bordeaux,
Bristol, Crete
(Heraklion), Dubrovnik,
Edinburgh, Geneva,
Ibiza, Lanzarote,
Lisbon, Liverpool,
London (LGW, LTN),
Lyon, Manchester,
Menorca, Milan (MXP),
Naples, Olbia, Paris
(CDG), Rome, Tangier,
Toulouse, Venice
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €30.
A three-day
travel card gives
you unlimited use
within zone A. Buy
onboard, tickets: €13.
Metro line 8
connects to the
city centre. Tickets €2.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15
Tomates Verdes
Fritos (27 Calle Santa
Isabel, tel: 915 271
126) This restaurant is
perfect for an informal
lunch or dinner. The
front bar area off ers
MOLLY MALONE’S
ULYSSES
O’DONNELL’S
delicious tapas and
excellent wines, while
the main dining room,
with its fi lm-theme
decor, serves up
Spanish favourites.
UP TO €30 La
Panza es Primero
(33 Calle Libertad, tel:
915 217 640) Get into
the swing of things
with an icy margarita
in the lively bar section
of this famed Mexican
restaurant before
settling down at the
small tables and stools
to enjoy some great
dishes from south
of the border.
UP TO €50 Lua (5
Calle Eduardo Dato,
tel: 913 952 853) Chef
Manuel Domínguez
Carrete wants his
guests to feel as if
they are eating in his
own home, and Lua
is decidedly cosy.
Diners sit around old,
wooden kitchen tables
as they savour some
fi ne Spanish cuisine,
including roast ribs
and black rice.
AYRE GRAN
HOTEL COLON
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
A cool hotel for a
super cool city, this
design hotel is on
the edge of Retiro
Park. Check out the
rooftop garden. From
€67.50, book at
hotels.easyJet.com.
2for1
ecil ffe f ll ees
*Ceck T’s & C’s e b*

150 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
Madrid
Spain
EXCLUSIVE Tse
Yang (Villa Magna, 22
Paseo de la Castellana,
tel: 914 311 888)
Undoubtedly Madrid’s
best Chinese fi nedining
experience. The
lavish interior is divided
by exquisitely carved
screens, while graceful
imperial scenes adorn
the walls. The menu
includes fresh seafood
with soy and ginger,
dim sum, Szechuanstyle
spicy chicken and
a particularly succulent
Peking duck.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY La
Escalera de Jacob
(9 Calle Lavapiés, tel:
915 391 044) This
intimate bar is just on
the edge of Lavapiés,
Madrid’s most diverse
neighbourhood. Enjoy
a snack from the tapas
menu and a glass of
wine while sitting on
the outdoor terrace.
LIVE MUSIC La
Cueva del Bolero (1
Calle Cid, tel: 914 315
229) Some excellent
cover bands, as well
as local pop and
rock bands, get the
crowd moving in this
underground bar.
Quench your thirst
from a good selection
of beers and drinks.
LATE & LIVELY
El Perro (15 Calle
Puebla) Try as you
might, you won’t fi nd
a more hedonistic and
fun night out than at El
Perro, as DJ and host
Jamie mixes on the
decks and everyone
gets on the dancefl oor.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Take a stroll
along the length
of Calle Barquillo
to discover trendy
fashion boutiques. At
No.18 is Gion, which
sells oriental-inspired
garments; at No.30,
Santa Rita has original
outfi ts for women;
and at No.34 is Callate
la Boca, with a vast
range of fab T-shirts.
SEE Don’t miss the
landmark exhibition,
The Hermitage in
the Prado Museum,
which fi nishes on 25
March. More than
70 masterpieces,
including works by
Picasso, Rubens and
Caravaggio, showcase
the treasures of one
of Russia’s most
important museums.
GO After visiting
the Royal Palace and
Opera House, pop
inside the Opera Metro
station. You’ll fi nd
the archaeological
remains of Madrid’s
medieval water
system, as well as
stone walls and wells.
ESCAPE Catch the
AVE train at Atocha
and, in just an hourand-a-half,
you can
be in Valencia. Have
a swim in the Med, eat
a seafood paella and
explore the Old Town.
NO WAY!
Around 1,000 years
ago Madrid was a
thriving Arab town with
hundreds of mosques.
Scott Adams
Majorca
Spain
DIALLING CODE +34
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Basel, Belfast
(BFS), Berlin, Bristol,
Dortmund, Edinburgh,
Geneva, Glasgow,
Liverpool, London
(LGW, LTN, SEN,
STN), Manchester,
Milan (MXP), Naples,
Newcastle, Paris
(CDG), Rome
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €20.
Route 1 goes to
central Palma.
Tickets: €2. For Arenal
take bus No.21.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15 O’Neill’s
(Carrer de Paris, Palma
Nova) If you fancy
great pub food served
in comfortable and
friendly surroundings,
O’Neill’s is the place
to head to. Expect topquality,
homemade
food and great two-forone
deals after 6pm.
Kitchen closes at 10pm
Monday to Saturday.
UP TO €30 La
Boveda (3 Carrer
Boteria, Palma, tel:
971 714 863) Probably
Palma’s best-known
and busiest tapas bar,
which means you may
have to wait to get a
table, as it only takes
bookings for the fi rst
sitting at 8.30pm.
Busy with tourists and
locals alike.
UP TO €50
Il Paradiso (243 Joan
Miró, tel: 971 103 379)
This Italian restaurant
is truly splendid and
unique in style. The
main dining room
boasts fl oor-to-ceiling
windows from which
you can view Cala
Major Bay, or you
can dine al fresco on
the spacious terrace.
Samples from the
menu include penne
paridiso served with
sautéed beef strips.
The mouthwatering
dishes are all served
with a smile, making
this a truly brilliant
dining experience.
EXCLUSIVE Villa
Italia (13 Camino
de San Carlos, Port
d’Andratx, tel: 971 674
100) Chef Christian
Catrina creates the
perfect combination
of Mediterranean and
international dishes,
carefully prepared and
beautifully presented.
Indulge on house
specialities including
a tasty tuna carpaccio
or sole encased in an
almond crust while
overlooking stunning
views of the port.
A truly memorable
experience.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Era
Café and Bar (338
Avenida Joan Miro,
San Agustin, Palma,
YO YOU WANT IT, , WE GO GOT IT!
WHETHER LAST MINUTE OR PEAK SEASON, WE ALWAYS
GUARANTEE AVAILABILITY WHEN YOU BOOK ONLINE.
tel: 971 404 359)
The perfect place to
start your evening.
Enjoy a pre-dinner
drink in super-cool
surroundings.
LIVE MUSIC Exit
Rock Bar (60 Calle
San Magin, Santa
Catalina, tel: 971 287
721) A rock bar with
various live-music
events throughout the
week and weekends,
Exit also off ers a fully
equipped recording
studio upstairs, if
you’re feeling that
little bit songful.
LATE & LIVELY
Abraxas (42 Paseo
Maritimo) Formerly
known as Pacha,
Abraxas is a force
to be reckoned with
and is undoubtedly
one of Palma’s fi nest
nightclubs. It boasts
two dancefl oors,
three bars, several
private areas and a
huge outdoor terrace
on which to chill
out and watch
the sunrise.
HOTEL
ROC LINDA
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
By Ca’n Pastilla
beach and resort,
this hotel has great
amenities and cool
rooms. Breakfast
included. From
€33, book at
hotels.easyJet.com.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Knox Design
are one of the island’s
top specialists in
interior design,
off ering original and
hand-selected pieces
from furnishings
to objets d’art and
quirky gift items
(knoxdesign.net).
SEE Mallorca’s
International Classic
Car Rally attracts
rally teams and
motor enthusiasts
from all over Europe.
Vintage vehicles
race along a 600km
route, including
a scenic coastal
section. Prizes
are also awarded
for the most
beautiful cars.
GO Plaza Mayor in
the heart of the city
is the perfect place
to sit, chill and watch
the world go by. With
street entertainers
and market stalls,
there’s plenty to keep
you occupied.
ESCAPE Take a trip
to Puig de Randa,
which rises 542m
above the plains of
Lluchmajor, and visit
three monasteries
built in the 13th
century. From the
terraces of Nuestra
Señora de la Cura,
you will experience
impressive views over
the entire island.
NO WAY!
Some 1.8 million
cruise ship
passengers passed
through Palma de
Mallorca in 2011.
David Anderson
Europcar guarantees easyJet passengers
great car rental deals. For your discounted
price book at
easyJet.com or visit
the Europcar desk.

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The Language Learning Experience

152 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
Málaga
Spain
DIALLING CODE +34
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Basel-Mulhouse,
Belfast (BFS), Berlin,
Bristol, Geneva,
Glasgow, Liverpool,
London (LGW, LTN,
SEN, STN), Manchester,
Milan (MXP),
Newcastle, Paris (CDG)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €16.
Buses go to
Málaga with
links to all the coastal
resorts. Tickets: €1.20.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15 Majesty
Restaurant (19
Calle Independencia,
Fuengirola) Tucked
away on one
of Fuengirola’s
backstreets in the
older part of town,
this welcoming place
dishes up lovingly
prepared homecooked
mains like spicy
chilli in spacious
and comfortable
surroundings.
UP TO €30
La Reserva de
Antonio (6 Plaza del
Remo, La Carihuela,
Torremolinos, tel: 95
205 0735) Seafood
lovers can’t go wrong
at this newly opened
place appropriately
located across from the
beach in Torremolinos’
attractive former
fi shing area. Choose
from the daily catch or
go for a classic paella.
Large picture-windows
guarantee good views.
UP TO €50 El
Chinitas (4–6 Calle
Moreno Monroy, tel: 95
221 0972) A traditional
Andalusian restaurant
just off swanky Calle
Larios. For carnivores
not afraid to try
something new, oxtail
is the speciality,
although any of the
tapas selections are
good. There is outside
seating if you fancy
dining al fresco.
EXCLUSIVE
La Consula
(Churriana, tel: 95
243 6026) Located
in an historic family
house frequented
by Hemingway, this
renowned cooking
school’s excellent
restaurant showcases
exquisite dishes that
are on a par with
those produced at
some of Spain’s top
gourmet hotspots.
Faultless service and
a refi ned yet relaxing
atmosphere complete
the experience.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Lounge
Bar Mi Terraza (Plaza
Jeronimo Cuervo 2,
Malaga, tel: 95 221
9914) Sit outside on
the terrace overlooking
Teatro Cervantes while
enjoying a long, cool
cerveza. The inside is
invitingly furnished
with sink-into sofas
and edgy artwork.
LIVE MUSIC Jardin
(1 Calle Canón, tel: 95
222 0419) Situated
within confessional
distance of the
cathedral, this elegant,
longstanding café
has live fl amenco
and tango music
on weekend nights
and attracts wellheeled
malagueños.
LATE & LIVELY
Maxy’s (Paseo
Maritimo, Fuengirola)
The place to come
if you’re the wrong
side of 40, with
1960s–1980s music, a
small dancefl oor, a long
bar and reassuringly
dim lights. Gets packed
out at weekends.
THIS MONTH
SHOP The glossy,
marbled main street of
Marques de Larios is
HOTEL MALAGA
CENTRO
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
In the centre of
Málaga, this hotel,
with a rooftop
terrace is a great
starting point from
which to explore.
From €72, book at
hotels.easyJet.com.
Málaga’s retail-therapy
showcase, lined with
enticing shops, cafés
and gracious, balconied
buildings. Don’t miss
Casa Miro – it’s the
place to try a refreshing
glass of creamy
horchata (tigernut
milk) – delicious!
SEE Malaga’s
Contemporary Art
Museum attracts some
real Tate Modern-style
artists, like Tracy
Emin and Gilbert
and George. The
permanent collection
includes photographs
and cutting-edge
installations
(cacmalaga.org).
GO Visit Málaga’s
brand-new port area,
known as Muelle Uno,
a delightful place for
enjoying a leisurely
seafront stroll. There
are restaurants, bars
and shops lining the
wide promenade with
its welcome, wave-like
shaded structure.
ESCAPE Head for
an area of spectacular
gorges, remote
mountain villages and
ancient caves west of
Ronda. Don’t miss the
prehistoric Cueva de la
Pilata near the village
of Benaojan with its
drawings of a huge fi sh
that is thought to be
some 15,000 years old.
NO WAY!
Málaga is home
to several teterias
(teashops). Moroccan
in atmosphere, expect
low-slung cushioned
seating and a wide
choice of teas.
Josephine Quintero
S et in the picturesque bay of Spinola Bay,
t. Julians, Peppino’s has been entertaining locals
and foreigners for the last 20 years. Peppino’s has become
an institution in the food industry and is well known for
its Italian and French cuisine and its friendly staff.
Malta
Malta
DIALLING CODE +356
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Belfast, Liverpool,
London (LGW),
Manchester,
Newcastle, Milan
(MXP), Rome
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €16.
TheX1, X2, X3, X4
are all express
services to the city.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
Cockney’s
(Marsamxett Creek,
Valletta Bastions) Take
the blue ferry across
from Sliema and dine
on the best fi sh and
Maltese delicacies in
the capital. It’s a family
aff air, with great views
across the bay.
EXCLUSIVE
MedAsia (90 The
Strand, Sliema, tel:
2133 3221) As the
name suggests, this
place is a fab ‘n’ funky
mix of Mediterranean
dishes (including
pasta and grills) and
Asian specialities. Bag
a table upstairs to
enjoy a more relaxed
environment, or else
bask outside in the sun.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Café
Jubilee (125 St Lucia
Street, Valletta, tel:
2125 2332) Relax with
a quiet drink in the
laidback ambience of
this quirky pub. Order
a plate of bruschetta,
sit back and soak
up the eclectic
vibe. Free Wi-Fi.
LATE & LIVELY
BJs Live Music Venue
(Ball Street, Paceville)
Those returning to
Malta may well be
thrilled to learn that
the island’s oldest livemusic
venue recently
reopened, following
a long refurbishment.
It’s now back with top
acts performing. The
popular jazz night is
on Thursdays, with
blues and rock over
the weekend.
THIS MONTH
GO Feel part of the
Maltese patriotism
by heading along to
the Freedom Day
celebrations on 31
March. Activities
mostly take place in
Vittoriosa to mark the
day that the last of
the British Forces left
Malta in 1979.
NO WAY!
The local countryside
is incredible at this
time of year. Head to
Bidnija, Golden Sands
or Dwejra to discover
a whole new side
of the islands.
Jo Caruana
Peppino’s Restaurant
31 St. Georges Road,
St. Julians, Spinola Bay,
MALTA
OPENING TIMES:
Mon - Sat: 12:00 - 15:00
Mon - Sat: 19:00 - 23:00
T. +356 21 373200
peppinosmalta@gmail.com

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FOR RESERVATIONS:
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FOR FURTHER INFORMATION:
info@citycenterhotel.is
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of your boarding pass
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the oldest streets in Reykjavik, Austurstraeti, we
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citycenterhotel.is | T. (+354) 5711400
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REFUNDS UP TO € 3.000
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156 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
Manchester
UK
DIALLING CODE +44
CURRENCY £
FLY FROM
Alicante,
Amsterdam, Athens,
Belfast, Berlin, Bilbao,
Copenhagen, Corfu,
Corsica (Bastia), Crete
(Heraklion), Cyprus
(Paphos), Dalaman,
Geneva, Hamburg,
Madrid, Majorca,
Málaga, Malta,
Marrakech, Munich,
Sharm El Sheikh,
Sofi a, Tenerife, Zürich
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs £20.
Trains depart for
the city centre
every 10 minutes.
Tickets: £5.40 single.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15
Leckenby’s (47
King Street West, tel:
0161 839 1929) An
old-fashioned respite
from city life with
cream leather booths
and fringed palms. Go
for sparkling wine, light
meals and cakes from
the local artisan bakery.
UP TO €30
Dimitris (Campfi eld
Arcade, Deansgate,
tel: 0161 839 3319)
Newly expanded,
this atmospheric
Greek taverna serves
moussaka, tapas
and king-size mezze
platters to share.
They serve Greek
wines and lagers but
the real draw is the
vibrant atmosphere
and original Victorian
conservatory. Booking
is recommended.
UP TO €50 Sole
(37 Turner Street,
tel: 0161 839 5600)
Decked in plush red
leather, cream and
varnished mahogany,
this independent
option in Manchester’s
cool Northern Quarter
off ers seafood with a
twist. Go for smoked
cod, roast monkfi sh
and fi g Bakewell tart,
with a glass of crisp
Sancerre on the side.
EXCLUSIVE
Aubaine at Selfridges
(1 Exchange Square,
tel: 0161 838 0571)
Inspired by fi ne
French cuisine, this
pop-up restaurant is
located on the second
fl oor of Selfridges
department store. As
well as champagnes,
regional wines and
lagers, modern classics
on the menu include
mushrooms on toast
with softly poached
duck egg, slow-roasted
endives and scallops
with pastel-hued
macarons for dessert.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY The
Briton’s Protection
(50 Great Bridgewater
Street, tel: 0161 236
5895) Dating from
1806, this vintage
boozer takes its name
from a former life as
a military conscription
centre. Today, the
woody snugs, roaring
fi res and 300-strong
single malt whisky
collection make
a visit a must.
LIVE MUSIC The
Ritz (Whitworth Street
West, tel: 0161 236
4355) With a sprung
dancefl oor and one of
the largest disco balls
in Europe, this is an
atmospheric spot to
catch DJs and live acts.
Recent live bookings
include Warpaint and
The Dap Kings, and
there’s an indie disco
every Friday.
LATE & LIVELY
Sankeys (Beehive Mill,
Jersey Street, Ancoats,
tel: 0161 236 5444)
With a celebrated
Phazon soundsystem
and programme
of new DJ talent,
Sankeys is home to
the latest sounds.
Advance booking is
recommended thanks
to guests that include
Heidi, Oliver$ and
Joy Orbison.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Founded by
members of 808 State,
Eastern Bloc is an
independent record
store specialising in
bass and urban music.
Recently re-located,
it retains the same,
open-minded attitude.
T-shirts and equipment
are stocked alongside
the latest releases
on CD and vinyl (5A
Stevenson Square,
Northern Quarter).
SEE Home to the
Spanish cultural
institute and tapas bars
galore, Mancunians
dig all things Spanish –
and the city’s art-house
cinema plays host to
an annual Spanish fi lm
festival this month, too.
Tuck into fi lms such
as Daniel Sánchez
Arévalo’s Cousinhood
and a new exhibition by
Mexican artist Minerva
Cuevas (Until 18
March, Cornerhouse,
Oxford Street,
cornerhouse.org).
GO Criss-crossing
the city from east to
west, Deansgate is a
central thoroughfare
lined with restaurants,
bars and stores. Look
out for Victorian
landmarks like John
Rylands gothic library
and Barton shopping
arcade, as well as new
arrivals such as the
Armani store.
ESCAPE Drive south
towards Buxton and
enjoy the six hectares
of Lyme Park, complete
with resident deer and
a country house dating
from the 1500s. After
you’ve worked up an
appetite, stop off at
The Red Lion in High
Lane for slow-cooked
beef and fi ne wine.
NO WAY!
Manchester has been
a tourist destination
since 1804, when
the fi rst guide book
was written by
Joseph Aston.
Ruth Allan
Marrakech
Morocco
DIALLING CODE +212
CURRENCY MAD
FLY FROM
Basel-Mulhouse,
Geneva, London (LGW),
Lyon, Manchester, Milan
(MXP), Paris (CDG)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs
about MAD60.
The hourly L19
bus goes to the
Jemaa el Fna. Tickets:
MAD20 single.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Le
Square (Rue de Paris,
tel: 0524 423 989)
This walled-garden
LOW KEY
Koz’i Bar (47 Place
des Ferblantiers,
tel: 0524 380 324)
An intimate place
where tourists and
Moroccans can pull
up a stool to enjoy
fi ne wines, cognacs
and cigars.
BERBER MUSEUM at the Jardin Majorelle
OPEN EVERY DAY Museum Bookshop Café Boutique
restaurant is run by
a friendly couple who
serve a diverse menu
of Asian-French cuisine
alongside traditional
Moroccan fare.
EXCLUSIVE
Crystal (Boulevard
Mohamed VI, tel:
0524 388 400) The
restaurant of the super
cool and seriously
popular Pacha club.
At Crystal diners
eat a Mediterranean
menu among an art
deco setting, or sat
around the bubbling
swimming pool in the
large garden. Most
diners stay on to enjoy
the soundtrack of the
Pacha DJs till late.
AFTER DARK
LATE & LIVELY
Nikki Beach (Circuit
de la Palmeraie,
tel: 0524 332 494)
There’s a reason why
Nikki Beach continues
to make the grade:
it will fulfi ll all your
needs with its vast
swimming pool and
billowing music tents
dotted about the
lawns. Pure luxury.
THIS MONTH
SEE For traditional
Berber artefacts, try
Dar Si Said, a 19thcentury
palace now
home to the Museum
of Moroccan Arts.
NO WAY!
Marrakech is the Land
of God, according to
the Berber people.
Well, that’s what
it’s name literally
translates to, anyway.
Sara Townsend
Rue Yves Saint Laurent, Gueliz, Marrakesh Tel: + 212 (0)5 24 31 30 47 www.jardinmajorelle.com

5 lodges
De 390 à 650 euros

158 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
Marseille
France
DIALLING CODE +33
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Bristol,
London (LGW)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €50.
A shuttle bus to
Gare St Charles
train station, leaves
every 20 minutes.
Tickets: €8.50.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
Le Malthazar (19
Rue Fortia, tel: 04
9133 4246) Inspired
by Balthazar of
NYC, this brasserie
is a popular local
lunch spot for offi ce
workers. Tiled fl oors
and high ceilings
make the venue
appear spacious.
EXCLUSIVE
Ca Blanca (53 Rue
Saint Pierre, tel: 04
9148 6823) Highly
recommended
traditional French
restaurant with a
monthly menu,
exquisite fl avours,
excellent presentation
and a warm welcome.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY
El Paseo (15 Rue
Andre Poggioli, tel:
04 9612 0330) The
blue and yellow decor,
wide selection of
tapas and extensive
list of karaoke songs
make El Paseo a good
choice for a fun
night out.
LATE & LIVELY
Espace & Café
Julien (39 Cours
Julien, tel: 04 9124
3410) Espace Julien
is a popular concert
and performance
venue on Cours Julien
for rock, pop, hip hop,
reggae, world music
and jazz. Go to nearby
Café Julien for upand-coming
talent.
THIS MONTH
SEE A fascinating
exhibition called
Entre Chien et
Loup (Between
Dog and Wolf) by
Laurence Verduci,
a French artist living
and working between
London and Marseille,
is on from 2–31
March at La Citerne
du Panier (17 Rue
Saint-Antoine).
NO WAY!
Marseille comprises
a mosaic of
inhabitants, many
with family and
historic links to
Italy and Spain as
well as signifi cant
communities of
Corsican, Armenian,
Maghreb, Turkish,
Chinese and
Vietnamese origin.
Claire McAlpine
Milan
Italy
DIALLING CODE +39
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Agadir,
Amsterdam,
Athens, Barcelona,
Bari, Berlin,
Bordeaux, Brindisi,
Brussels, Cagliari,
Casablanca, Catania,
Copenhagen, Corfu,
Crete (Heraklion),
Dubrovnik, Edinburgh,
Ibiza, Kefalonia, Kos,
Lamezia, Lisbon,
London (LGW, LTN),
Lyon, Madrid, Majorca,
Málaga, Malta,
Marrakech, Menorca,
Mykonos, Naples,
Olbia, Palermo, Paris
(CDG, ORY), Porto,
Prague, Rhodes,
Rome, Santorini,
Split, Thessaloniki,
Toulouse, Zante
FROM THE
AIRPORT
LINATE
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €25.
ATM’s route 73
connects with
the metro at San
Babila. Tickets: €1. The
Starfl y goes to Centrale
station, every 30
minutes from 6.10am-
11.30pm. Tickets: €5.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
MALPENSA
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €70.
The Malpensa
Shuttle departs
for Centrale station
every 20 minutes from
5.30am–1.20am. Buy
onboard. Tickets: €7.50.
The Malpensa
Express departs
for Cadorna station
every 30 minutes
from 5.50am–1.30am.
Tickets: €11.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15 Taverna
Moriggi (8 Via
Moriggi, tel: 02 8058
2007) This old-world
taverna in the heart
of the historic centre
is just the place to
gather on a winter
evening, with its
dark wood tables,
well-worn decor,
good wine and fi ne
selection of meats
and cheeses.
UP TO €30
La Gavetta (4 Via
Pompeo Litta, tel: 02
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TAXI
EUROHOTEL
MILAN
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
Recently renovated,
the Eurohotel’s 43
new rooms, have a
Swedish-sauna eff ect
of wood panelling.
Breakfast included.
From €59, book at
hotels.easyJet.com.
5519 9947) The fare at
this funky emporium
in the Porta Vittoria
district comes in
single-portion mess
akin to the look of
a suitcase, but the
bizarre presentation
doesn’t spoil the
wholesome food,
which includes ample
salads. Good value.
UP TO €50
Al Sale Grosso (33
Via Ippolito Nievo,
tel: 02 341290) This
new arrival is already
making a name for
itself, off ering a range
of fi sh and seafood
dishes in an elegant
interior with a marine
theme. Choose from
the likes of tuna in
mustard sauce or
seabass baked in salt.
Trattoria Casa
Fontana (5 Piazza
Carbonari, tel: 02
670 4710) Set in
one of the less
attractive parts of
Milan, a visit to this
old-world eatery pays
off because it’s rich
in atmosphere and
serves up a great
range of local fare
based around risotto
and polenta dishes.
EXCLUSIVE
Giacomo
all’Arengario (1 Via
Marconi, tel: 02 7209
3814) Spectacular
views over the central
Piazza del Duomo are
the keynote at this
traditional restaurant
that serves up a
range of quality
dishes such as pasta
with a rabbit and olive
sauce. Great for a
special meal for two.
Chatulle (68 Via
Piero della Francesca,
tel: 02 3450 4024)
All-white decor and
an outside garden
for warmer months
greet diners at this
smart eatery in the
Sempione area.
Popular with media
professionals, the
menu choices
include great steaks
and there’s an
excellent wine list.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY MIB (10
Via Gaetano Negri,
tel: 02 8909 3854)
Set in the fi nancial
district, not one
of Milan’s busiest
quarters at night,
this new disco-bar
takes its initials
from the Italian
stock exchange
and off ers elegance
and exclusivity
to an upmarket,
fashionable clientèle.
LIVE MUSIC
Delano (2 Via Crispi)
This new disco-bar
in the bustling Corso
Como district recalls
Ibiza with its all-white
decor and rigorous
house music policy.
Pretty kitsch, but
Sundays feature
some good live
music acts.
LATE & LIVELY
Codice Club
(98 Alzaia Naviglio
Grande) One of
the few dancing
places in the Navigli
district, this newly
revamped venue
opens on Friday and
Saturday nights
with DJ sets of

160 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
Milan
Italy
international
standing. A must
for electronic
music afi cionados.
Q21 (21 Viale Padova)
Best to get a taxi to
this new club in one
of the less attractive
parts of Milan,
but the eclectic
music policy and
general conviviality
compensate. Entry
costs around €10.
THIS MONTH
SHOP While books
are still clinging on
in this digital age,
there’s no better
place to buy them
than at Hoepli,
Milan’s greatest
bookstore, home to
half a million titles,
including volumes
in English as well as
foreign newspapers.
The building itself, an
architect-designed
palace dating from
1958, is worth a look
(5 Via Hoepli, tel:
02 864 871, hoepli.it).
SEE If you’re in
Milan on Sunday
25 March, join
Stramilano, the
city’s annual halfmarathon.
Around
50,000 runners of
all ages and abilities
take part, setting off
from Piazza Castello
and ending at the
Civic Arena. The 21km
event was fi rst run in
1972 (stramilano.it).
GO One of Milan’s
less-publicised
quarters is its
Chinatown, centred
around Via Paolo
Sarpi and Via
Bramante. This is the
best place for a lazy
Chinese meal on a
Sunday afternoon,
when many Italian
businesses are
closed. It’s also great
for delis, clothes
stores and knickknack
shops where
you might pick up an
oddball souvenir.
ESCAPE As
spring comes the
destination of choice
has to be Como,
with its picturesque
lake and fascinating
historic centre. Byron
was just one of the
literary greats to fall
for its charms, while
even in Roman times
it was known to both
Pliny the Elder and
Pliny the Younger.
Each evening on the
lake promenade,
known as the Lungo
Lario, you can still
see the Italian ritual
of the passeggiata, a
leisurely stroll before
dinner. If you’re
eating out, Piazza
Cavour has the best
restaurants. Among
Como’s historic
attractions are a fi ne
Gothic-Renaissance
cathedral with
a Baroque dome
and 16th-century
tapestries inside.
NO WAY!
Milan has been an
international hub for
centuries, and even
today 15.2 per cent
of its population was
born outside Italy.
Charles Searson
Montpellier
France
DIALLING CODE +33
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
London
(LGW, LTN)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €20.
Take the shuttle
bus to Place
de l’Europe. Tickets:
€1.50 single.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
La Petit Aphrodite
(11 Rue du Pont-de-
Lattes, tel: 05 6765
4482) Said to be the
only authentic Greek-
Cypriot restaurant
in town, this is the
place for souvlaki
or moussaka.
Rebetiko folk music
is performed on the
fi rst Wednesday of
every month, too.
EXCLUSIVE
Isadora (6 Rue de
Petit-Scel, tel: 04
6755 6666) Tiny but
perfect restaurant
with intimate and
thoughtful service.
The evening menu
is both complex but
with dainty tastes
– think langoustine
tails wrapped in
duck breast, served
with a rich sauce.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY The
Egg (11 Rue du Plan
d’Agde, tel: 04 6763
8301) A welcoming
bar with a big
selection of beers and
wines. It packs out
later on but is ideal for
an after work pick-meup
and some excellent
dried sausage.
LATE & LIVELY
La Dune (Route des
Plages, La Grande
Motte, tel: 04 6756
4343) Take the
dedicated night bus
out to this hotspot –
there’s just a certain
something about
its combination of
techno and banana
rum that makes
this place special.
THIS MONTH
SEE The Salon de
l’Habitat (Homes
Expo) runs from 1–4
March and covers
the latest house
furnishings and decor
(habitat-montpellier.
com). Otherwise,
scramble for tickets
to David Guetta’s
show on 31 March at
all the usual outlets.
NO WAY!
The central square
in Montpellier – La
Place de la Comedie
– is often called l’oeuf
(“the egg”) because
of the shape of
the original
pedestrian area.
Samantha David
Munich
Germany
DIALLING CODE +49
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Edinburgh,
London (LGW, STN),
Manchester
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €60.
The S1 and S8
lines run from
4:30am to midnight.
Tickets: €10 single.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
Bardales (2
Blutenburgstrasse,
STRONG BEER
SEASON
SEE From 9–25
March, Munich
celebrates strong
beer season.
Breweries produce
ales with alcohol
contents of about 8%
(Paulaner brewery,
77 Hochstrasse).
tel: 089 1202 7766)
Top-quality South
American food at
reasonable prices
is the lifeblood
of this stylish
bar-restaurant. The
cocktails come highly
recommended, too.
EXCLUSIVE
Austernkeller (11
Stollbergstrasse, tel:
089 298 787) This
fi sh restaurant prides
itself on the freshness
of its seafood. With
a separate oyster
menu and a good
selection of quality
wines, it’s perfect for
a special occasion.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY
Alter Ofen (41
Zieblandstrasse,
tel: 089 527 527) A
Munich classic, this is
a pub which promises
decent beer, snacks
and atmosphere at
sensible prices – and
has been doing so for
the past 30 years.
LATE & LIVELY
Eat the Rich (90
Hessstrasse, tel: 089
185 982) A magnet
for Munich’s beautiful
people, this is the
place to come if you
want to eat, drink,
groove and ogle the
hip clientèle well into
the early hours.
NO WAY!
Munich’s fi fth season
– strong beer season
– was started by
monks who invented
the strong ale to help
them get through the
annual fast for Lent.
Jill Henne

162 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
Murcia
Spain
DIALLING CODE +34
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Bristol,
London (LGW)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs
around €45 to Murcia
and €35 to Torrevieja.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 La
Tarantella (Plaza
San Juan, tel: 968 218
616) A popular Italian
restaurant. As well as
the three-course set
menu, there are pasta
dishes and pizzas. The
Caprese salad with
mozzarella is a good
bet with a glass of
dry white wine.
EXCLUSIVE
Bodegón La Peña
(37 Calle Benissa,
Pilar de la Horadada,
tel: 965 352 794)
This restaurant’s
annual gastronomic
week attracts a lot of
media attention, but
it is the traditional
Mediterranean dishes
which shine all year
round. All sorts of rice
dishes are on off er, with
the seafood paella one
of the most popular.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Il Caff e
di Roma (6 Plaza
Cardenal Belluga) Look
out over the historic
square, home to the
strapping cathedral
and bishop’s palace,
while supping a coff ee.
LATE & LIVELY
Club 12 Y Medio
(Avenida Ciclista
Mariano Rojas) This
venue is great for
live bands and an allround
top night out.
A cool vibe makes it
popular with a young,
student crowd.
THIS MONTH
SEE British a-capella
band The Flying
Pickets, will be
performing at the
Auditorio Víctor
Villegas on 22
March. The band is
considered to be one
of the best a-capella
acts in the world.
David Jones
NO WAY!
Many rescued birds,
including Griff on
vultures (pictured),
are released back
into the wild in
Murcia. The birds
are nursed back to
health at the El Valle
Wildlife Centre.
Nantes
France
DIALLING CODE +33
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Basel-Mulhouse,
Geneva, London
(LGW), Lyon, Nice,
Toulouse
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €30.
The Tan Air
shuttle bus
runs to Nantes South
SNCF train station,
Cité des Congress
and the town centre.
Tickets: €7
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Les
Copains d’Abord (7
Rue de Arche-Seche,
tel: 02 4048 5183) A
relaxed friendly little
place with exposed
stonework and beams
and wooden tables.
The special of the
day could be almost
anything but it’s
always tasty and fi lling.
EXCLUSIVE
Auberge de Breca
(352 Village de Breca,
tel: 02 4091 4142)
Just out of town, this
restaurant in the heart
of the National Park
has a fabulous open
fi replace and a warm
welcome. The menu
is mainly French
classics revisited.
Don’t miss the
homemade foie gras.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Maison
Akabi (49 Calle
Mayor) A great place
to chill out on a cold
day and read a book
or play some of the
board games available.
There are occasional
art and photography
exhibitions and
acoustic concerts
(folk and jazz) too.
LATE & LIVELY
Cookoo (12 Rue de
Rieux, Champ de Mars,
tel: 02 5186 4249)
Fashionable club with
three bars and a VIP
lounge. Dress up to get
past the bouncers. The
music is pretty eclectic
early on in the evening
and morphs into
techno and electro
around midnight.
THIS MONTH
SEE Stand-up
comedian Jamel
Debbouze is a megastar
in France so
tickets to his show on
18 March at the Cité
des Congrès are hot
but grab one if you
can. You’ll certainly be
left chuckling in your
seat at his jokes.
NO WAY!
Nantes was called
Portus Namnetum
during the Roman
occupation that began
in the year 56BC.
Samantha David
Naples
Italy
DIALLING CODE +39
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Basel-Mulhouse,
Berlin, Bristol,
Edinburgh, Geneva,
Ibiza, Liverpool,
London (LGW, STN),
Madrid, Majorca,
Milan (MXP), Nice,
Paris (ORY), Venice
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €35.
The Alibus stops
at the train
station and Piazza
Municipio. Tickets: €4.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
O’ Scugnizz’ (72
Galleria Umberto,
tel: 081 401 199)
Grab a snack and an
espresso at this cute
café in the grand,
glass-roofed Galleria
Umberto shopping
arcade. It’s the
perfect place
to linger and write
a few postcards.
EXCLUSIVE
Il Garum (2 Piazza
Monteoliveto, tel:
081 542 3228)
This vibrant osteria
specialises in seafood
prepared according
to ancient recipes,
accompanied by live
Neapolitan music
most weekends.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Nais
Moment (29 Via
Giuseppe Ferrigni)
In addition to
espresso, wine,
cocktails and snacks,
Nais Moment off ers
gluten-free appetisers
and DJs who play
everything from
R’n’B to techno.
LATE & LIVELY
Otto Jazz Club (32
Via Salita Cariati,
tel: 081 552 4373)
This basement club
in the upscale Vomero
neighbourhood off ers
top-shelf jazz
Friday–Sunday from
10pm until late.
THIS MONTH
GO Flanked by pubs,
pizzerias and the
Royal Palace, the
Piazza del Plebiscito
is Naples’ largest
pedestrian square.
This popular hub
is where you fi nd
families out for a
stroll, lovers having a
rendezvous and kids
playing ball.
NO WAY!
The Neapolotian folk
classic ‘O Sole Mio is
so tightly associated
with Italy that it
was substituted
for the Italian
national anthem at
the 1920 Olympic
Games in Antwerp.
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164 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
Newcastle
UK
DIALLING CODE +44
CURRENCY £
FLY FROM
Alicante,
Barcelona, Belfast
(BFS), Bristol, Faro,
Geneva, Ibiza, Majorca,
Málaga, Malta, Menorca,
Nice, Paris (CDG)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs £18.
The Metro
goes to the city
centre. Tickets: £2.70.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Electric
East (Waterloo
Square, St James’s
Boulevard, tel: 0191 221
1000) With the walls
festooned with artwork
from Vietnam, Electric
East is a contemporary
restaurant that
attracts a mixed but
lively crowd out for
the authentic taste
of south-east Asia.
The menu features a
mixture of dishes such
as scallops with peanut
caramel and tempura
of salt and chilli
soft-shell crab.
EXCLUSIVE
Grand Hotel (Grand
Parade, Tynemouth,
tel: 0191 293 6666)
This majestic hotel
Melanie
before
treatment
overlooking the North
Sea lets you enjoy
top-quality meals in
elegant surroundings.
The hotel boasts
seafood specialities
such as deep-sea John
Dory with tiger prawns
and vanilla mash.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY
Shearer’s Bar (St
James’ Park) Named
after Newcastle
United’s famous
striker, this sports bar
is packed on match
day and home to the
younger football crowd.
LATE & LIVELY
The Stand Comedy
Club (31 High Bridge
Street, tel: 0844 693
3336) Good food,
drinks and a side
serving of laughs are
the order of the day
at The Stand Comedy
Club, which is building
up a great reputation.
THIS MONTH
SEE There’s an
international festival of
art, technology, music
and fi lm throughout
the whole of March. AV
Festival 12: As Slow As
Possible will include
15 major exhibitions,
more than 50 fi lm
screenings and music
events, walks and an
online radio show, nonstop
for 744 hours.
NO WAY!
Starting in Newcastle
and winding 117km
across north England,
Hadrian’s Wall remains
the UK’s largest
freestanding structure.
Michelle Ord
Nice
France
DIALLING CODE +33
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Barcelona,
Basel-Mulhouse,
Belfast (BFS), Berlin,
Bordeaux, Bristol,
Brussels, Edinburgh,
Geneva, Lille, Liverpool,
London (LGW, LTN,
STN), Lyon, Nantes,
Naples, Newcastle,
Paris (CDG, ORY),
Rome, Toulouse, Venice
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
Alocal taxi costs €30.
Bus 98 stops at
Nice’s Old Town
and the Gare Routière.
Tickets: €4.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15 Les
Salons de Calypso
(19 Rue Meyerbeer, tel:
04 938 7173) A wellkept
secret behind
the Negresco Hotel,
this original tearoom
is decorated in 19thcentury
style with
period sofas, subdued
lamps, drapes and
potted palms. It
serves homemade
pastries with hot Swiss
chocolate. Lunch
means a simple choice
between salads or
plates of charcuterie.
UP TO €30
Alounak (3 Rue
Alsace Lorraine,
tel: 04 9385 8650)
Persian and south
Mediterranean dishes
including tagines,
couscous, houmous
and grilled brochettes
of meats and fi sh are
served up in authentic
surroundings. The
generous portions
are best enjoyed
by sharing them.
EXCLUSIVE La
Terrasse Rooftop
Restaurant (1
Promenade des
Anglais, tel: 04 9703
4444) Situated on the
roof of Le Méridien
Nice, diners are
treated to amazing
panoramic views over
the Mediterranean
and Baie des Anges.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY La Cave
du Marché (5 Rue
Forville, Cannes, tel: 04
UP TO €50
La Maison de Marie
(5 Rue Masséna, tel:
04 9382 1593) In the
town centre, with a
smart terrace, this
place is for foodies.
Dine on treats such
as foie gras, stuff ed
sardines or truffl es.
9399 6098) Ideal for
a glass of rosé as the
sun sets. Free nibbles
come courtesy of the
nearby Forville Market.
LIVE MUSIC
Wayne’s Bar (15 Rue
de la Préfecture, tel:
04 9313 4699) Foreign
and local bands play
pop and classic rock
covers nightly in this
bar, where dancing
on the tables is
strongly encouraged.
LATE & LIVELY
L’Eff ervescence (10
Rue de la Loge, tel: 04
9380 8737) Nestled
into the Old Town’s
back streets, jazzy
little L’Eff ervescence is
Nice’s only champagne
bar. Splurge on a bottle
from the stellar menu,
which lists more than
50 types of fi zz.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Head into the
Old Town and stock
up on gifts from the
myriad of boutiquecrammed
streets.
Don’t miss Le Frigo (3
Rue Benoît Bunico),
off ering vintage fashion
and accessories, or
L’Ile de Ceylan (No.17),
a quirky Indian store
selling everything
from Bollywood
movies to spices.
SEE The famous
Cirque du Soleil is in
town with its Alegria
show from 7–11 March
at the Nikaia. After 17
years of touring in 70
countries throughout
the world, this
performance continues
to wow audiences as it
takes them into a
world of fantasy and
dream using a
fabulous set and
colourful costumes.
GO The port
becomes busier as
the super-rich return
from winter. Grab a
sandwich and admire
the row of yachts
being pampered
by their crews and
then head across to
the shady arcades
of Place Ile Beauté,
where the Notre
Dame Church is a
fi ne example of neorenaissance
style.
ESCAPE The
scruff y appearance
of Ventimiglia train
station, just over the
Italian border, is quickly
forgotten as you head
into the Old Town.
Here, you’ll discover
all the charm you’d
expect from an Italian
port town. On Fridays,
bargain hunters fl ock
to the renowned street
market. On other days
the Hanbury Botanical
Gardens are an
18-hectare showcase
of exotic plants from
all regions of the
world. Foodies take
note: fresh seafood
should be sampled
at one of the
seaside restaurants.
NO WAY!
The war against
counterfeiting is taken
very seriously by
French border police
and big fi nes are
targeted at “innocent”
tourists who have
purchased fake luxury
brands across the
border in Italy.
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166 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
Olbia
Italy
DIALLING CODE +39
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Basel-Mulhouse,
Berlin, Bristol, Geneva,
London (LGW),
Lyon, Madrid, Milan
(MXP), Paris (ORY)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €15.
The Linea
Urbana bus
goes to Olbia every 30
minutes. Tickets: €1.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
Barbagia (94 Via
Galvani, tel: 0789
51640) If you want to
sample some authentic
Sardinian cuisine
without the hefty price
tag, Barbagia is the
place to go. The threecourse
menu of the day
with drink is €15.
EXCLUSIVE
I Frati Rossi (Località
Pantogia, tel: 0789
94395) With the
breathtaking views
from the veranda and
their exquisite seafood
dishes, the experience
of dining at I Frati
Rossi is well-worth the
30-minute drive. As
one of the area’s top
dining spots, make
sure to book your
table in advance.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY La
Spiaggia Bianca
(Strada Olbia, tel: 0789
615 235) Ease into your
evening with a few lazy
drinks here. And if after
a while you fi nd the
cool breeze and beach
views have left you
feeling refreshed, stay
back for one of their
regular beach parties.
LATE & LIVELY
Mama Beach
(Pittulongu Beach,
0789 398 013) An
all-day favourite, this
beach-side venue
transforms itself from
chilled brunch spot,
to hard-partying
disco where DJs spin
tracks till late.
THIS MONTH
GO Travel inland and
behold the megalithic
stone circles scattered
across the ancient
ruins of Arzachena.
There are several you
can check out, but
the best preserved is
the Nuraghe Albuccio
which stands 2km
from Arzachena.
NO WAY!
Italians may be known
for being outspoken,
but not so in Olbia.
Sardinians are
more reserved and
conservative than the
Continentali (as they
call their continentdwelling
cousins).
Nathalie Berger
Palermo
Italy
DIALLING CODE +39
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
London (LGW),
Lyon, Milan (MXP),
Paris (ORY), Rome
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €50.
The Trinacria
Express arrives at
Palermo Notarbartolo.
Tickets: €5.80.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 La
Duchessa (69–71 Via
Principe di Belmonte,
tel: 091 508 6896) This
small pizzeria fi lls up
quickly, and no wonder:
NO WAY!
The soaring banyan
trees which almost
take over the central
Piazza Marina, are
said to be the tallest
of their kind in Italy.
Check them out
for yourself while
wandering around.
Marco - Robert
Our Customers
in this friendly eatery,
you’ll delight your taste
buds with mouthwatering
starters,
followed by your choice
of over 30 types of
pizza. Go for the one
with the ricotta and
spinach-fi lled crust.
EXCLUSIVE Gigi
Mangia (104 Via
Principe di Belmonte,
tel: 091 587 651) Gigi
Mangia has made
his love of cooking
his raison d’être. He
personally chooses
the ingredients for his
dishes. The delectable
tuna in pistachio or
sesame crust keeps
his faithful clientèle
coming back for more.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Coff ee
and Chocolate
(108 Via Principe di
Belmonte, tel: 091
329 220) Looking for
an after-dinner drink?
You’ll be tempted by
the thick, creamy hot
chocolate here. Not to
be missed.
LATE & LIVELY
Loft (46 Via Mazzini)
Loft has become the
go-to place in Palermo,
given its perfect
balance of mix and
mingle, photography
installations and live
bands that keep the
multitudes entertained.
THIS MONTH
SEE Boris Gudunov,
the intriguing ballet
based on a Pushkin
tale, is on at the
Massimo Theatre,
23–30 March
(teatromassimo.it).
Conchita Vecchio
Paris
France
DIALLING CODE +33
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Agadir, Athens,
Biarritz, Belfast (BFS),
Berlin, Bologna, Brest,
Brindisi, Bristol,
Budapest, Cagliari,
Casablanca, Catania,
Copenhagen, Corsica
(Ajaccio), Corsica
(Bastia), Crete
(Heraklion), Dubrovnik,
Edinburgh, Faro, Fez,
Geneva, Glasgow,
Ibiza, Krakow, Lamezia,
Lisbon, Liverpool,
Ljubljana, London
(LTN), Madrid, Majorca,
Málaga, Marrakech,
Menorca, Milan (MXP,
LIN), Mykonos, Naples,
Newcastle, Nice, Olbia,
Palermo, Pisa, Porto,
Prague, Rhodes, Rome
(FCO), Split, Tangier,
Thessaloniki, Toulouse,
Venice, Verona, Zagreb
FROM THE
AIRPORT
ORLY
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €35.
The Orly bus
stops at Place
Denfert-Rochereau
from 5.45am–11.30pm.
Tickets: €6.80.
CHARLES DE
GAULLE
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
PARIS
112 BOULEVARD SAINT GERMAIN
TEL. +33 1 463 30 668
www.boggi.com - shop.boggi.com
A local taxi costs €45.
Take the RER
B3 – trains leave
every 15 minutes from
5.25am–midnight.
Tickets: €9.40.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15
Chartier (7 Rue du
Faubourg Montmartre,
9th, tel: 01 4770
8629) This bustling,
turn-of-the-20thcentury
worker’s
canteen is still one
of the best deals in
Paris. Traditional
French fare, such as
steak-frites and oeufs
mayonnaise, is served
by somewhat brusque
but effi cient waiters.
UP TO €30 Bread
& Roses (25 Rue
Boissy d’Anglas,
tel: 01 4742 4000)
A gourmet deli,
bakery and tearoom
specialising in organic,
high-quality products.
Try the Ploughman’s
Lunch with salad and
cheddar, the goats
cheese and sun-dried
tomatoes on organic
toast, hearty quiches,
foie gras or platters of
charcuterie. They’re
famous for their
desserts such as
cheesecake, sticky
toff ee pudding,
and Tartelette. The
prices may seem
high, but the prime
people-watching
opportunities make
it worth it. Open for
lunch and dinner.
UP TO €50 Café
Baci (36 Rue de
Turenne, 3rd, tel: 01
4271 3670) Enjoy
high-end Italian

BEST VALUE IN PARIS
THE HOTEL TAYLOR WILL DELIGHT BOTH YOU AND YOUR WALLET
ON THE RIGHT BANK, in a peaceful,
secluded position on a quiet one-way
street just outside the bustling centre
of Paris and within walking distance
of Notre Dame, the family-run
boutique Hotel Taylor is the perfect
base from which to enjoy a romantic
THIS JUST IN
Hotel Taylor is renovating
the adjacent Hotel
Annexe – visit
annexe-paris-hotel.com
to view their new
low-cost rooms.
break in the City of Light. Just a
short walk from the lively Marais
district and close to major department
stores, the Place des Vosges, Bastille
and Canal Saint Martin, the hotel’s
location is unbeatable.
With a charming and cosy ambience
www.quaibranly.fr
PROMOTION
as well as 37 newly refurbished,
sound-proofed guestrooms and
modern, romantic interiors, you’ll
be tempted to stay in, as well as
to go out. Hotel amenities include
free WiFi, a fl at-screen TV in every
bedroom and a sumptuous buffet
breakfast. And the hotel’s attentive
and experienced staff are always
on hand to help with restaurant
suggestions, taxi bookings and more.
Last but not least, Hotel Taylor is
outstanding value for money – with
single rooms from just €80 and
doubles from €91, it is the hotel of
choice for savvy travellers.
Hôtel Taylor, 6 rue Taylor, 75010
Paris, tel: +33 (0)1 4240 1101
Email: contact@paristaylorhotel.com
paristaylorhotel.com
Les collections,
The collections,
expositions,
exhibitions,
conférences,
conferences,
spectacles,
performing arts,
cycles de cinéma,
cinema cycles,
colloques internationaux…
international symposiums…
Arts et civilisations d’ Afrique, d’ Asie, d’Océanie et des Amériques
Arts and civilisations of Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas

168 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
Paris
France
cuisine in a stylish
setting with the beau
monde just around
the corner from the
Marais’ Place des
Vosges. Seared tuna
steaks and perfectly
cooked risotto are
served in a splitlevel
dining room
smartly decorated
with creamy white
leather banquettes,
black-and-white
vintage architectural
drawings and
cappuccino coloured
walls. Be sure
to reserve on
weekend evenings.
EXCLUSIVE Verjus
(47 Rue Montpensier,
tel: 01 4297 5440)
For a casual feel
with fresh, gourmet
cooking, try the newly
opened restaurant
and wine bar located
on a small road
behind the Palais
Royal, run by the
American couple of
Hidden Kitchen fame.
The dining room
is light and cosy,
with mismatched
furniture. The food
is contemporary,
perfectly balanced
fl avours in the meat,
fi sh and vegetable
dishes. Two tasting
menus are priced
at €50 and €70.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Lizard
Lounge (18 Rue du
Bourg-Tibourg, tel: 01
4272 8134) Cocktails
and a low-key, friendly
atmosphere attract a
TRAVELLER
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How Spain went crazy
for gin and tonic
18 reasons to visit
Zagreb in 2012
Sun, sand and serious
culture in Malta
Tel Aviv’s coolest
new art district
MARCH 2012
*YOUR FREE COPY TO
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001_ej_Cover 01.indd 1 10/02/2012 14:44
young, international
crowd to this bar in
the Marais. Head
downstairs to the
second DJ bar for
an extended happy
hour and dancing
until the wee hours.
LIVE MUSIC
Le Bataclan (50
Boulevard Voltaire,
tel: 01 4314 0030)
A Parisian institution
dating back to 1864,
Le Bataclan is an
elegantly shabby
theatre where the
latest rock, indie
and pop stars
perform nightly.
The atmosphere
is intimate and
dynamic. For March,
the eclectic schedule
includes The Fall (7th)
Korn (12th), and Al
Andalus Flamenco
Nuevo (31st).
LATE & LIVELY
Violon Dingue (46
Rue Montagne Sainte
Geneviève, 5th,
tel: 01 4325 7993)
Students fi ll both
levels of this Latin
Quarter favourite,
with a late happy
hour (8pm–10pm)
and dancing on the
lower level until dawn.
The street-level bar
is more like a typical
scruff y pub with
sports on the TV and
a large selection of
beers and cocktails.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Browse over
20,000 art books
covering topics
from architecture
and photography to
fashion and design
in the Artcurial
Contemporary Art
Bookstore, just off the
Champs-Elysées in
the historic Hôtel
Marcel Dassault
(7 Rond-Point des
Champs-Elysées,
tel: 01 4299 1619).
SEE Paris is the place
for cinema lovers, and
this month you can
catch the Printemps
du Cinéma festival
from 18–20 March,
with all fi lms just
€3.50 (printempsdu
cinema.com).
GO Rebuilt from
the old wine-bottling
district, Bercy (in the
12th) is now home
to the romantic
Bercy Park, the
Cinémathèque
Française, and Bercy
Village, a pedestrianonly
street lined with
bars, boutiques and
cafés. It’s accessible
via the driverless
Météor (metro line
14), making it a snap
to reach from the
centre of Paris in just
a few minutes.
HOTEL DE
BELLEVUE
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
Adjacent to the
commuter hotspot,
Gare du Nord, is this
quaint hotel with
just 38 rooms.
Breakfast included.
From €88, book at
hotels.easyJet.com.
ESCAPE A day-trip
to Versailles isn’t
just about the Sun
King’s chateau. The
town is also known
for the Quartier
Notre-Dame’s many
antique and crafts
shops (around the
Passage de la Geôle)
and the historic
outdoor market,
Marché Notre-Dame
(the best day to go is
Friday morning). This
indulgent shopping
trip is just 20 minutes
from the Gare St-
Lazare (destination
Versailles – Rive
Droit). For more
information, call
the Versailles
Tourism Offi ce on
01 3924 8888.
NO WAY!
The City of Paris is
the offi cial owner
and manager of 96
religious monuments,
some dating back
to the 12th century,
of which 85 are
Catholic churches,
nine are Protestant
churches, and two
Jewish synagogues.
Their architecture,
artworks and even
organs are protected
as historical
treasures, and part
of the city’s budget
is used to help
with much-needed
restoration works (for
example, the façade
of the Eglise St
Paul-St Louis in the
4th arrondissement
is currently under
scaff olding for
extensive cleaning).
Heather Stimmler-Hall
Pisa
Italy
DIALLING CODE +39
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Berlin, Bristol,
London (LGW, LTN),
Paris (ORY)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €7.
CPT buses go to
the centre. Route
3 stops at Pisa Central
station. Tickets: €0.80.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
La Mescita (2 Via
Domenico Cavalca,
tel: 050 544 294)
A marketplace eatery
with a reputation
for fi ne cuisine. The
menu changes every
month but usually
includes sformatino di
melanzane (aubergine
souffl é in tomato
sauce) and ravioli with
baby prawns.
EXCLUSIVE
Il Nuraghe (58 Via
Mazzini, tel: 050
44368) A little taste of
Sardinia. Try delicious
octopus alla catalana,
ravioli alla sarda
(stuff ed with ricotta)
and for dessert the
Are you interested in advertising to
5m passengers per month?
Please contact our advertising sales team
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delectable, cheesefi
lled pastries
drizzled with honey,
named sebadas.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY
Caff etteria delle
Vettovaglie
(33 Piazza delle
Vettovaglie) A café in
the old marketplace
where you can relax
after dinner with
a cocktail or glass of
wine and listen
to great live jazz.
LATE & LIVELY
Big Ben (Via Palestro,
tel: 050 581 158) A
very English pub in
style and decor where
you can enjoy a pint of
Irish or English beer.
THIS MONTH
SEE Gustopolis, a
gastronomic festival
featuring excellent
local Tuscan products,
hits Montopoli di Val
d’Arno (near Pisa)
on 6–7 March. While
there, enjoy the town’s
art treasures: entrance
to the town’s museum
and the Tower of San
Matteo are free.
NO WAY!
Although Pisans are
proud of their city’s
history and beauty,
they are quick to
point out their fellow
citizens’ negativity,
as in the saying: “if a
Pisan goes to a free
concert, he complains
about the queues; if he
goes to a concert for
which he has bought
a ticket, he complains
about the price.”
Silvia Falsaperla
00000 EasyJet Sales 5mil Banner.indd 1 13/02/2012 11:51
TAXI

More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
Porto
Portugal
DIALLING CODE +351
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Basel-Mulhouse,
Geneva, London
(LGW), Lyon, Paris
(CDG), Milan
(MXP), Toulouse
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €20.
Metro trains take
you to the centre.
Tickets: €1.75.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
Assador Tipico (85
Rua Nova Sao Crispim,
tel: 22 510 4155)
Great Portuguese grill
restaurant with hearty
helpings of succulent
meat and seafood.
The beef picana and
juicy octopus with
green sauce are
recommended.
EXCLUSIVE Don
Tonho Restaurant
and Bar (13–15 Cais
da Ribeira, tel: 22 200
4307) A top-notch
restaurant in the
Ribeira district, owned
by the Portuguese
rock singer Rui Veloso.
Typical clientèle
includes visiting
politicians, famous
writers and artists. You
won’t go wrong with
one of the cod dishes.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Il Caff è
di Roma (71 Rua
Sá da Bandeira) An
Italian-style coff ee
shop in a beautifully
restored building.
A great spot to refresh.
LATE & LIVELY
Meia Cave (6 Praça
da Ribeira) This place
doesn’t get interesting
until after 10pm, with
a trendy and stylish
crowd dancing to
house, hip hop and
drum’n’bass, with
occasional concerts.
NO WAY!
The new Centre for
Art and Architecture
Aff airs in Guimaraes
is housed in a former
textile factory. Today,
where once cloth was
made, cinema, dance
and theatre take shape.
Joseph Guerra
GUIMARAES
DAY TRIP
GO Nearby
Guimaraes is the
European Capital
of Culture for 2012.
Events will be taking
place throughout
the month and the
medieval city centre
is worth a visit.
Prague
Czech Republic
DIALLING CODE +420
CURRENCY CZK
FLY FROM
Amsterdam,
Bristol, London (LGW,
STN), Lyon, Milan
(MXP), Paris (CDG)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
As one of the medieval houses
situated in the heart of the
taromstsk nmst square, it has
been a popular inn since times
long past and offers a pleasant
place for relaxing when walking
along the Royal Way.
taromstsk restaurace, a
restaurant famous for its excellent
Czech cuisine and world-renowned
Pilsner beer.
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A Cedaz van takes you
to the city for CZK90
per person.
Catch bus 119
to Dejvicka then
take metro line A to the
centre. Tickets: CZK26.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15 Zluta
Pumpa (11 Belgicka,
tel: 608 184 360) The
Golden Pump is a
cheerful neighborhood
pub-café popular
with young Praguers
looking for a cheap
bite and a glass of
Staropramen. A burrito
and a beer will set you
back roughly €5.
UP TO €50 Sansho
(25 Petrska, tel: 222
317 425) It’s the foodie
meccas like Sansho
that have given Prague
its latest title as bona
fi de gastronomic
destination in central
Europe. This casual
spot, founded by
British chef Paul Day,
produces some of
the most ingenious,
Asian-inspired ideas
in the region, all while
showcasing the fi nest
local ingredients.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Tretter’s
Cocktail Bar (3 V
Kolkovne, tel: 224 811
165) A real cocktaillover’s
destination,
Tretter’s prides itself
on its immaculately
prepared drinks
and its New Yorkinspired,
retro interior.
A classy choice.
LATE & LIVELY
Club Roxy (33 Dlouha,
tel: 224 826 296) One
of Prague’s biggest
and most famous
clubs, Roxy hosts live
concerts as well as
DJs catering to music
lovers from across the
spectrum. Past guests
have included Belle
and Sebastian, Shy FX,
and Nick Warren.
THIS MONTH
GO One of Prague’s
most picturesque
quarters, Mala Strana
is home to plenty
of quaint cafés and
shops and is just
across Charles Bridge
en route to the castle.
A welcome oasis of
relative calm away
from the Old Town.
NO WAY!
The Czechs down as
much as 157 litres of
beer per capita yearly,
offi cially making
Czechs the world’s top
ale consumers!
Dana Dramowicz/
prague-life.com
DESTINATION GUIDES | 169
Pristina
Kosovo
DIALLING CODE +381
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Basel-Mulhouse,
Geneva
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €25.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
Napoli (Rruga
Luan Haradinaj)
Excellent pizzas
served by a chef
who spent a decade
making them in the
eponymous Italian
harbour city. There’s
also pasta, salads
and some good wines.
At the southern end
of the street.
EXCLUSIVE
Lura (Rruga Nazim
Gaff uri, tel: 038 763
763) Up on the hill
near Germia Park,
Lura is a restaurant
serving good fresh
fi sh, grilled meat and
other Mediterranean
specialities,
accompanied by live
jazz from Wednesday
onwards and
traditional Albanian
music on Saturdays.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Konak
(Sheshi Zahir Pajaziti,
tel: 049 871 509) A
lovely new bar with
exposed brick walls,
knick-knacks displayed
on shelves and various
soups, hot snacks and
light meals on off er
besides the usual
coff ee and drinks.
LATE & LIVELY
Peppermint Club
(Bulevard Nëna Tereza,
tel: 044 234 367)
A large and elegant
club-restaurant in
central Pristina with
a central bar, large
dancefl oor and regular
performances by
local and international
artists and DJs.
THIS MONTH
GO Go to Brezovica,
70km south of
Pristina, for the last
skiing in Kosovo this
season. The slopes
are excellent and
there are good-value
hotels, restaurants
and bars; it’s just the
power cuts that can
cause a problem when
you’re in the chairlift!
(brezovica-ski.com).
NO WAY!
Kosovo’s airspace is
highly restricted; no
civilian aircraft are
allowed in the NATOcontrolled
upper
area (above 9km),
and below it only
two narrow air
corridors from Pristina
airport to Macedonia
can be used by
passenger planes.
Jeroen van Marle/
inyourpocket.com
We prepare the best of classic Czech cuisine, a selection of juicy
steaks, fresh vegetable salads with homemade dressing, piquant
specialities to go with beer, homemade desserts and much more.
Aside from the cold winter months we also open an outdoor
restaurant with a wonderful view of the whole taromstsk
nmst square, which is splendidly lit in the evening.
el.. ax..
obil ofcestaromestskarestaurace.cz
WWW.STAROMESTSKARESTAURACE.CZ

170 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
Reykjavik
Iceland
DIALLING CODE +354
CURRENCY Krona (ISK)
FLY FROM
London (LTN)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs
up to 12,000 ISK
Airbus to the
city centre takes
45 minutes. Tickets:
1,950 ISK (one way)
BON APPETIT
EXCLUSIVE
Sjávarkjallarinn (2
Adalstraeti, tel: 511
1212) The “Seafood
Cellar” has long been
one of the most
unique places to eat
in Reykjavik.
Decorated with
swanky furnishings, its
New Nordic menu is
a dazzling assortment
of tastes. The menu
is seasonal but the
lobster is always there.
Meat and vegetarian
dishes also available.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Hemma
og Valda (21
Laugavegur, tel: 551
6464) This friendly,
laidback café-bar is
right on the high street
and off ers great coff ee,
cakes and gentle
music during the day,
and beer, wine and a
convivial vibe at night.
LATE & LIVELY
Kaffi Barrin (1
Bergstadastraeti, tel:
551 1588) Marked by
the famous London
Underground sign
above the door, Kaffi
Barrin has starred
in movies and lured
stars like Blur’s Damon
Albarn. Weekends can
seem calm until 10pm,
but between then and
closing time it gets
packed and pumping
with DJs on the decks.
THIS MONTH
GO The pretty lake
in the centre of town,
Tjörnin, is lovely for
a stroll, feeding the
ducks and exploring
the statues, churches
and museums nearby.
NO WAY!
Icelanders consume
more Coca-Cola per
capita than any
other nation.
Paul Sullivan
UP TO €30
Grill Market (2A
Lækjargata, tel: 571
7777) This opening
from renowned
chef Hrefna Rósa
Sætran is winning
fans fast with its
rustic-chic interior
and elegant menu.
Rhodes
Greece
DIALLING CODE +33
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Berlin, Liverpool,
London (LGW), Milan
(MXP), Paris (ORY)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €23.
From 6.30am to
midnight, regular
buses go to Rhodes
Town (New Market).
Tickets: €2.20.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 O Core
e Mamma (14 Agías
Lávras, tel: 22410
25730) A charming
Italian restaurant
hidden in a quiet
neighbourhood, yet
within walking distance
from the Old Town.
Pasta and wood-fi red
pizza are the staples;
bulk wine is a bit rough,
so go for bottled.
EXCLUSIVE
Hatzikelis (9 Alhadéf,
Mylon Gate, tel: 22410
27215) Housed in a
former Jewish girls’
school behind ruined
Santa Maria del
Borgo church, this is
a favourite with locals
and VIPs who tuck
into stuff ed aubergine,
botargo (pressed
mullet roe) and wild,
not farmed, fi sh.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Mandala
(38 Sofokléous, tel:
22410 38119) Garden
bistro-café which
comes into its own
during the cooler
months, when a wood
stove roars during
live music sessions
Sunday afternoon and
two other evenings.
Good range of beers.
LATE & LIVELY
I Rogmi tou Hronou
(4 Platía Aríonos) This
bar in the medieval
town has been a
winner since its late-
1990s establishment,
regularly hosting
live bands, karaoke
contests and parties.
THIS MONTH
SEE The Museum
of Modern Greek Art
on 100 Palms Plaza
in Neohóri, holds the
best collection of
20th-century Greek
painting outside of
Athens. Learn up
on surrealist Nikos
Engonopoloulos,
internationally
renowned Nikos
Hatzikyriakos-Ghikas,
naive artist Theophilos,
and others.
NO WAY!
Rhodes Town is
very popular with
Turkish and Israeli
weekenders, many
of whom come for a
fl utter at the casino.
Marc Dubin
KEFLAVÍK AIRPORT REYKJAVÍK CITY
O
Free WiFi Hotspot
on board our coaches.
Rome
Italy
DIALLING CODE +39
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Amsterdam,
Athens, Basel-
Mulhouse, Berlin,
Bilbao, Bristol, Corfu,
Crete (Heraklion),
Dubrovnik, Düsseldorf,
Geneva, Ibiza, Lisbon,
London (LGW), Lyon,
Madrid, Majorca, Malta,
Milan (MXP), Mykonos,
Nice, Palermo, Paris
(ORY), Santorini, Split,
Toulouse, Venice
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
BSÍ Bus Terminal 101 Reykjavík
Iceland www.flybus.is
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €40.
The Bus Shuttle
takes you to
Termini station. Buy
onboard, tickets: €15.
The Leonardo
Express goes
to Termini station.
Tickets: €14.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15 Bar
da Benito (14 Via dei
Falegnami, tel: 06
686 1508) A bar and
restaurant in the heart
of the old Jewish ghetto
off ering fast service
and good food. Try the
spaghetti all’arrabbiata.
UP TO €30 Osteria
Centouno (101
Via Fabio Massimo,
tel: 06 323 5790)
A modern, sober
and sophisticated
restaurant near the
Vatican, off ering
fresh food and
generous portions.
Try the tagliolini
with courgette, mint
and pecorino.
UP TO €50
Ditirambo (74 Piazza
della Cancelleria, tel:
06 687 1626) Just
round the corner from
Campo de’ Fiori, this
modern restaurant
has an unusual take on
Mediterranean cuisine,
with such delicacies
as octopus salad and
ginger or sardines and
fi gs. However, if you feel
a little less adventurous
you can’t go wrong
with their aubergine
and pesto sauce. The
wine list includes more
than 200 bottles from
all over Italy.
EXCLUSIVE
Il Convivio (31 Vicolo
dei Soldati, tel: 06 686
9432) This temple to
fi ne dining just north
of Piazza Navona has
three dining rooms,
normally packed with
foreign food lovers.
Angelo Troiani’s
cooking is creative
but basically Roman.
The hot ricotta fl an
with Tregignano
radish, honey and
parmiggiano fondue is
fantastic and so is the
risotto with cuttlefi sh.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Caff è
Sant’Eustachio (82
Piazza Sant’Eustachio,
tel: 06 6880 2048)
Near the Pantheon,
FAST, FREQUENT & ON SCHEDULE
EVERY DAY OF THE WEEK.

One of the hottest spots in
Located right in the heart of Reykjavik, Café Paris is the
place to be! Whether you meet friends or family for breakfast,
brunch, dinner or cocktails, you will experience the true
Icelandic atmosphere in which locals and tourists mingle.
We also have live jazz on weekends. Th e nightlife
in Reykjavik is colourful and so are our cocktails!
10% discount
off your bill
101 Reykjavik, Iceland
T. +354 551 1020
E. cafeparis@cafeparis.is
www.cafeparis.is
You have not visited Rey kjavik until you have visited Café Paris!
by the sea
and a delicious lobster
at Fjörubordid in Stokkseyri
At the seashore the giant lobster makes
appointments with mermaids and
landlubbers. He waves his large claws,
attracting those desiring to be in the
company of starfish and lumpfish.
Reykjavík
Stokkseyri
Eyrabakki
> Only 45 minutes drive from Reykjavík
Eyrarbraut 3, 825 Stokkseyri, Iceland · Tel. +354 483 1550
Fax. +354 483 1545 · info@fjorubordid.is · www.fjorubordid.is
EASY GOING
CULTURE
WITH LOCALS
KEX is a social hostel in the heart
of Reykjavik City. Formerly an old
biscuit factory, the building was
extensively renovated to create an
eclectic haven where locals meet for
concerts, events or just a visit to the
gastro pub for a drink and a home
cooked meal.
WWW.KEXHOSTEL.IS
KEXHOSTEL@KEXHOSTEL.IS
Spör ehf.

172 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
Rome
Italy
Sant’Eustachio is an
old and atmospheric
café. There are a
number of “best coff ee
bars in Rome” and
this is certainly one of
them. It serves some of
the very best espresso
and cappuccino in the
city and sells its own
brand of beans. Buy an
espresso and knock
it back standing at
the bar in traditional
Italian fashion.
LIVE MUSIC Casa
del Jazz (55 Viale di
Porta Ardeatina, tel: 06
704 731) Casa is run
by the city council and
puts on performances
by local as well
as internationally
renowned jazz artists.
It also gives lots of
space to up-andcoming
musicians.
LATE & LIVELY
Supperclub (20 Via
Ciro il Grande) A very
trendy modern club in
a crumbly old building
near Largo Argentina
in the city centre. Great
for late-night drinking,
dancing and hanging
out in the slightly
risqué Rouge Bar.
THIS MONTH
SHOP RoseDany
Jeans Store is a longestablished,
family-run
and reasonably priced
casual clothes shop
specialising in jeans,
jackets and T-shirts
on the edge of hip and
trendy Campo de’ Fiori
(128 Via die Baullari).
SEE The Guercino
1591–1666 –
Masterpieces from
Cento and from
Rome exhibition at
the National Gallery
of Ancient Art in the
Palazzo Barberini aims
to highlight the major
works in the career of
Francesco Barbieri –
Guercino’s real name.
The title refers to
Guercino’s birthplace
of Cento, just north
of Bologna. Palazzo
Barberini is open from
9am until 7pm except
Mondays. Tickets: €10.
GO The Baths of
Diocletian were the
largest in Rome and
in the 16th century,
Michelangelo built a
convent on their ruins.
Its magnifi cent central
cloister is packed with
hundreds of Roman
statues, making it a
must-see site (79 Via
Enrico de Nicola).
ESCAPE Monti
Simbruini Park is
the largest park in
the Lazio region and
is only 60 minutes
from Rome. A haven
for ramblers and
sightseers, its seven
historic towns and
mountain villages are
medieval citadels built
on rocky outcrops, with
only a few hundred
inhabitants each.
NO WAY!
The weird and
extravagant Caligula
was mad about gold.
He gave it to dinner
guests, showered
people in the streets
with it, and liked
rolling around in piles
of it himself.
Alan Goldwater
Salzburg
Austria
DIALLING CODE +43
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Bristol, Liverpool,
London (LGW, LTN)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €30.
Trains run to the
Hauptbahnhof
station. Tickets: €9.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
Zipfer (12 Sigmund
Haff nergasse, tel:
0662 840 745) The
typical Salzburg
LOW KEY
Pier 17 (48
Alpenstrasse, tel:
0662 632 124) Have
a glass of Campari
and enjoy the Italian
fl air and atmosphere
of this café. Should
olives not be enough,
ask for some pasta.
atmosphere of this old
tavern attracts tourists
and locals alike. Go
for the breaded and
fried chicken fi llet
with tartare sauce
and potatoes.
EXCLUSIVE
Gmachl (35
Dorfstrasse, tel: 0662
452 124) The interior
of this family-run
restaurant is as
refi ned as the chef’s
culinary creations. The
bull steak in cognac
and cream sauce
and raspberry crème
brûlée are exquisite.
AFTER DARK
LATE & LIVELY
Shamrock Irish Pub
(12 Rudolfskai, tel:
0662 841 610) Located
in the city centre, this
pub is popular for the
live-music events and
a jolly local crowd who
enjoys good lager.
THIS MONTH
GO Enjoy a sunny
March day at the
beautiful gardens of
the baroque palace
Mirabell. Fountains,
labyrinths and
colourful fl owerbeds
make the gardens one
of Salzburg’s most
beautiful sights.
NO WAY!
Most of the city,
including the dome,
was severely damaged
during the bombings
in 1944. A complete
destruction was
prevented by a
peaceful surrender
to American troops
in 1945.
Uros Urosevic
Santiago de
Compostela
Spain
DIALLING CODE +34
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Geneva
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €20.
A bus goes to
the centre every
half hour. Tickets: €3
single; €5 return
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Caney
(5 Alfredo Brañas, tel:
981 559 603) Located
on the ground fl oor
of the Araguaney
Hotel, Caney off ers a
variety of tastes and
textures with a touch
of creativity. A couple
of house suggestions:
black rice with
cuttlefi sh and baby
scallops with jamon.
EXCLUSIVE El
Pasaje (54 Rúa do
Franco, tel: 981 557
081) Said to be the
oldest restaurant in
central Santiago, El
Pasaje serves a good
sample of the most
celebrated products
in Galician cuisine:
seafood and beef.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY
El Santiagués (1
Praza da Quintana,
tel: 981 566 738) This
is a proper Spanish
all-purpose café-bar.
You can come here
for breakfast, a cheap
lunch, afternoon
coff ee with a sweet
bite or a cocktail at
night. A simplisitc bar,
the location is perfect.
LATE & LIVELY
Avante (4 Cantón
de San Bieito) In
terms of music and
atmosphere, this
is what you call an
off -the-beaten-track
bar. Try it if you want
to get away from
mainstream pop
music. It is supposed
to be a meeting
point for Galician
nationalists.
THIS MONTH
GO The
magnifi cence of the
Cathedral means that
the annex Gelmírez
Palace often goes
unnoticed, but it is
well worth a visit.
Originally built in the
12th century, it speaks
a lot about the power
of the clergy in the
Middle Ages.
NO WAY!
A couple of bars in
town, such as Fonte
Sequelo and Retablo,
can still prepare
a queimada, the
traditional Galician
drink that is set
afl ame just before
serving. It has to be
ordered in advance.
Pablo Carballo

THE FIRST LUXURY ART HOTEL ROMA
Inspired by contemporary art and design on a modern and international concept, The First Luxury Art Hotel Roma is located in the
historical center of Rome, Via del Vantaggio, a street between Piazza del Popolo, Via del Corso and Via del Babuino. The historic
building, which dates back to the 19th century, has been completely renovated in accordance with the original architecture and
redesigned with refined colors and natural materials to give life to a modern class atmosphere. The charming soul of the building
and enchanting ambience of the surrounding lanes ensure guests a moving experience, rich with intriguing contrasts between
history and modernity, between tradition and technology. The hotel offers 29 elegant and stylish rooms including 6 deluxe rooms
and 23 suite and two splendid locations for savoring the excellent cooking traditional Roman dishes: the Overhall Restaurant on
the elegant lobby floor and the panoramic terrace roof garden the perfect location to enjoy a sunset cocktail with the breathtaking
view of the Roman rooftops.
R O M A R E S T A U R A N T
The First Luxury Art Hotel Roma ■ Via del Vantaggio 14, Roma
Tel. +39 06 45617070 ■ info@thefirsthotel.com ■ thefirsthotel.com

More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
Seville
Spain
DIALLING CODE +34
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
London (LGW)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €22.
The airport bus
runs every 30
minutes from 6am to
1am. Tickets: €2.40.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Casa
Salva (12 Pedro del
Toro, Santa Cruz,
tel: 954 214 115)
This down-to-earth,
EXCLUSIVE
Al Zait (Plaza de
San Lorenzo, tel:
954 906 475) This
formal restaurant
has earned a loyal
local following with
its traditional yet
innovative dishes
such as suckling pig.
lunchtime-only
restaurant is located
near the Museo de
Belles Artes. What it
lacks in atmosphere
(think bright lights and
mismatched decor),
it makes up for with
hearty, homestyle food.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY San Eloy
(2 Calle San Eloy) A
timeless classic near
El Corte Inglés, famous
for its tiled steps, where
you can sit if there are
no free tables. Enjoy
tapas accompanied
by sherry straight
from the barrel.
LATE & LIVELY
Fun Club (Alameda
de Hércules) Enjoy live
music most weekends
at this superclub on
the city’s trendiest
square. This is one
of the best areas
for nightlife in the
city, with plenty
of watering holes.
THIS MONTH
SEE It may be a tad
off the beaten track,
but try to pass by the
Convento de Santa
Paula in La Macarena
neighbourhood. It has a
fi ne portico and façade
and some stunning
sculptures and tilework
within. You can also buy
delicious cakes here,
made by the nuns.
NO WAY!
In building Seville’s
cathedral, a member of
the clergy proclaimed:
“Let us build a church
so large that we shall
be held to be insane!”
Josephine Quintero
Sharm El
Sheikh Egypt
DIALLING CODE +20
CURRENCY EGP
FLY FROM
Geneva, London
(LGW, LTN),
Manchester
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs
about EGP150.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Salon
de Thé (Soho Square,
tel: 069 360 2752) It
may be unexpected,
but you can now
enjoy a traditional
English afternoon tea
complete with fi nger
sandwiches, scones
and an assortment
of pastries at the
Salon de Thé.
EXCLUSIVE
Rangoli (Sofi tel,
Naama Bay, tel: 069
360 0081) Authentic
Indian cuisine comes
with attentive service
at this restaurant
located in the fi ve-star
Sofi tel Hotel. Perched
on the edge of a cliff ,
the magnifi cent sea
views complement
the sumptuous
ambience.
Swim with Dolphins in the Red Sea
Sharm El Sheikh - Hurghada - El Gouna - Marsa Alam
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Sadiki
Café (Hadaba, tel:
069 366 1202)
Perched on the edge
of a cliff , Sadiki Café
boasts inspirational
views across the
Red Sea. The
romantic setting is
complemented by
a bar service and a
delicious Italian menu
of antipasti.
LATE & LIVELY
Toda Joia (Alf Leila
Wa Leila, Hadaba)
Emerging as the
leading venue in
Sharm for techno
and electric club
music, Toda Joia
lounge bar and
nightclub features
a state-of-the-art
light-and-sound
system, regular guest
DJs plus an extensive
menu of enticing
cocktails to get you in
the party mood.
THIS MONTH
GO Follow your
guide, convoy style,
out towards the
mountains for a few
hours of off -road
quad-bike driving
along the sand tracks.
The excursion is most
popular at either
sunrise or sunset,
when the amazing
colours of the desert
are at their best.
Book with your hotel
or tour rep.
NO WAY!
The average rainfall
in Sharm el Sheikh
is less than 5mm
per year.
Penny Orford
DESTINATION GUIDES | 175
Sofia
Bulgaria
DIALLING CODE +359
CURRENCY Leu (BGN)
FLY FROM
London (LGW),
Manchester
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs
about BGN14.
Catch bus 84
from Terminal 1 or
bus 284 from Terminal
2. Tickets: BGN1.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Gara
za Dvama (18 Georgi
Benkovski Ulitsa)
Based on the 1982
Soviet fi lm of the
same name, Gara za
Dvama (“Station for
Two”) is designed
to resemble a small
train carriage and
off ers Russian meals
and good, if not very
strong, vodka.
EXCLUSIVE
Chervenata Kashta
(6 Boris Hristov
Ulitsa, tel: 02 971
4963) This pizzeria
is called “The Red
House” because of
its warm, inviting
interiors. The
delicious pizzas
When booking
quote EJ for a
10% DISCOUNT
“A great day out.
Good value for money.”
www.oceansredsea.com | Tel/Text: +20 122 2340995
Terry King, UK
are made in an
old-school clay oven,
and there are also
traditional Bulgarian
dishes and a variety
of salads on off er.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Cookies
Bar & Diner Café
(Slaveykov Ploshtad,
tel: 02 488 1722)
While this place is
fab for a light snack
or dinner, if you’re
just looking for a
sugar hit, this is
defi nitely the spot.
Accompany a juice
or a shake with an
indulgent cake or
homemade cookie.
LATE & LIVELY
My Mojito (12 Ivan
Vazov Ulitsa) Here,
ruby-red lights hover
over the heads of
people of all ages
and attitudes. There’s
a chill-out room
and another for Red
Bull-mixing rockers.
THIS MONTH
GO The bookstore
in the underpass of
the Hilton Hotel is
not only a shop,
it’s also an origami
workshop where
you can while away
the hours learning
how to fold paper
into marvellous
shapes (at the
intersection of
Bulgaria Boulevard
and Evlogi Georgiev
Boulevard).
NO WAY!
The fi rst telephone
conversation in Sofi a
took place in 1884.
Maya Kozareva

176 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
Stockholm
Sweden
DIALLING CODE +46
CURRENCY Krona (SEK)
FLY FROM
Geneva
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs
about SEK500.
Flygbussarna
coaches depart
for the city centre.
Tickets: SEK 198 return.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 China!
(110 Ringvägen,
Södermalm) Given
the name, the decor
off ers no surprises
(gold dragons and
yellow fi sh gaping in
aquariums), but the
thick menu off ers
more adventurous
and authentic items
than the Swedifi ed
and watered-down
Chinese fare you
normally fi nd in
Stockholm. Tripe
is on the menu, for
those who dare.
EXCLUSIVE
Gastrologik (14
Artellerigatan,
Östermalm, tel: 08
662 3060) Food
critics and foodies
already worship this
new luxury eatery.
The menu is blank.
You eat whatever they
serve, and the two
chefs are keen to dish
up the rarest of food
types: sea urchins
or crispy moose
snout, anyone?
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY
Lydmar (2 Södra
Blasieholmshamnen,
Norrmalm) With a
parlour feel, sharply
dressed patrons
and a penchant
for whisky-based
libations, this hotel
bar stands out.
LATE & LIVELY
Marie Laveau
(66 Hornsgatan,
Södermalm, tel: 08
668 8500) This party
palace for the young
and restless borrows
its name from a New
Orleans voodoo
queen, and on certain
nights you may feel as
if someone has cast
a spell on you.
THIS MONTH
GO The fi rst signs
of spring will melt
the Stockholmer’s
frozen heart.
Look for them in
Vitabergsparken,
a gorgeous, hilly
park at the eastern
edges of Södermalm.
NO WAY!
Don’t buy that dress,
borrow it! Stockholm
has a lending library
for designer threads
so you needn’t shop
any more.
Victoria Larsson
Tallinn
Estonia
DIALLING CODE +372
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Liverpool,
London (STN)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €10.
Route 2 goes
to the centre.
Tickets: €1.60.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
Number 9 (4 Rävala
Pst, tel: 639 9399)
Number 9 combines
lounging with trendy
French fi ne-dining
cuisine. And did we
mention the location
– 9th fl oor (which
is high in Tallinn),
smack in the very
heart of the city.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Three
Sisters Wine Bar
(2 Tolli, Old Town, tel:
630 6300) A swanky
low-key, medieval
cellar-bar with the
longest list of wines
by the glass in town.
LATE & LIVELY
Apollo Live Club &
Cabaret (17 Tartu
Mnt, tel: 655 7700)
The latest addition
to the nightclubbing
scene is one of the
largest clubs in town
and specialises in live
music and cabaret.
THIS MONTH
GO Tallinn Music
Week 2012 is a
showcase festival
that stages the
best and most
outstanding Estonian
talent in the most
vibrant live venues
(29–31 March,
tallinnmusicweek.ee).
NO WAY!
Mother’s Day and
St Valentine’s
Day coincide on 8
March in the form
of International
Women’s Day which
has, in Estonia at
least, become an
occasion for men to
express their love to
the women around
them. Expect fl owers
all over the place.
Ain Hinsberg
EXCLUSIVE
Chedi (1 Sulevimägi,
tel: 646 1676) Asian
gourmet cuisine
is created under
the observant eye
of award-winning
British restaurateur
Alan Yau. Try the
pi pa duck.
Tangier
Morocco
DIALLING CODE +212
CURRENCY MAD
FLY FROM
Madrid,
Paris (CDG)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs
about MAD150.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
Il Ristorante di Mare
(Avenue Mohamed
VI, tel: 0539 329
006) Overlooking the
Bay of Tangier, this
restaurant off ers a
variety of imaginative
pasta dishes, steaks,
lamb chops and
a cornucopia of
desserts. For excellent
service and superb
food, this is one to try.
EXCLUSIVE Hotel
Club Le Mirage (Les
Grottes d’Hercule, tel:
0539 333 332) Fresh
seafood and a view of
the endless Atlantic
sunset served up in
high colonial style.
This timeless hotel has
hosted everyone from
Francis Ford Coppola
to the Moroccan
Royal Family.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Dean’s
Bar (Corner Rue
d’Angleterre & Rue de
la Liberte) An intimate
locale popular with
locals and famous
expats, such as
Jack Kerouac, since
1937. It’s a bar worth
visiting as much for its
historical reputation as
for its excellent tapas.
LATE & LIVELY
555 Beach Club
(Avenue Mohamed VI,
tel: 067 818 1085) Its
reputation as the best
house-music venue
in town means this
club seldom has to
advertise beyond its
latest guest DJ. With
a cavernous, neon-lit
dance-fl oor, a poolside
lounge and a tapas bar,
555 keeps revellers
partying until dawn.
THIS MONTH
GO The
Archaeological
Museum of Tetouan
houses important
artifacts recovered
from the Roman sites
of Lixus, Volubilis,
Tamuda and Zelil,
among others. Set in
a pretty Andalusian
garden, this a
worthwhile excursion
to discover the melting
pot of Roman, Berber,
Phoenician and
Islamic culture that
informs Moroccan
culture today.
NO WAY!
Morocco was the fi rst
country to recognise
the United States in
December 1771.
Aman te Water

More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
Tel Aviv
Israel
DIALLING CODE +972
CURRENCY ILS
FLY FROM
Basel-Mulhouse,
Geneva, London (LTN)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs
about ILS150.
Trains run to
the city centre
every 30 minutes.
Tickets: ILS14.5.
BON APPETIT
EXCLUSIVE Orna
y Ella (33 Sheinkin
Street, tel: 03 525
2085) Natalie
Portman’s favourite
on the fashionista
UP TO €30
Yona (Old Jaff a Port,
tel: 03 774 2222) The
new casual sister
to Manta Ray, Yona
off ers homemade
delights. The salmon
is smoked here and
the bread basket is
baked on site.
TRAVELLER
Wonderland
With its hot springs and icy fj ords, there’s nowhere
quite like Iceland. Are you ready for the adventure?
How Spain went crazy
for gin and tonic
18 reasons to visit
Zagreb in 2012
Sun, sand and serious
culture in Malta
Tel Aviv’s coolest
new art district
MARCH 2012
*YOUR FREE COPY TO
TAKE AWAY WITH YOU
001_ej_Cover 01.indd 1 10/02/2012 14:44
strip. Salads and other
light dishes served in
a bright, rustic-style
space leave diners
with room for the
yam pancakes.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Betty
Ford (48 Nachalat
Binyamin Street, tel:
03 510 0650) This
bar features DJs with
drinks after dark in an
increasingly interesting
and edgy part of
town. Expect to rub
shoulders with artists
and architects.
LATE & LIVELY
Shalvata (Tel Aviv
Port, tel: 05 7944
2873) During the day,
Shalvata has a family
atmosphere. However,
after dark it’s the place
to enjoy cocktails to
the accompaniment of
cool sounds. Cocktails
are pricey, but the low
sofas, lapping waves
and sand make it an
enviable spot.
THIS MONTH
GO Head for
Ha’Tachana, the old
Jaff a railway station
now converted into
a charming outdoor
shopping complex,
and join locals
browsing the top-end
fashion and jewellery
boutiques (Hamered
at Koyfman Street).
NO WAY!
Tel Aviv is dubbed The
White City as a nod
to the collection of
pre-war Bauhaus
buildings lining
Rothschild Boulevard.
Anthea Gerrie
Tenerife
South Spain
DIALLING CODE +34
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Basel, Berlin,
Bristol, Edinburgh,
London (LGW),
Manchester
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €30.
Route 487 stops
at Los Cristianos
and Playa de Las
Americas. Tickets: €3.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 La Lola
(CC America Plaza,
tel: 922 789 518) This
authentically Spanish
tapas bar off ers mouthwatering
small plates
of delicacies such as
pulpo (octopus), carne
con papas (meat and
potato stew) and fried
sardines. Set in the
culinary heart of town,
this new establishment
is connected to the
restaurant El Embrujo.
EXCLUSIVE El
Molino Blanco (San
Eugenio Alto, Playa de
Las Americas, tel: 922
796 282) A favourite
with visiting superstars
the White Windmill
off ers an opulent
dining experience, with
fi ne wines, live violin
music and speciality
dishes such as Padron
peppers and Segovian
roast suckling pig.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Cafeteria
Victoria (126 Centro
Comercial Puerto
Colon) Enjoy harbour
life at this small but
well-designed café
situated in the heart
of Puerto Colon. With
free Wi-Fi and excellent
pizzas, it makes for a
very relaxed evening.
LATE & LIVELY
Linekers Bar (Starco,
Playa de Las Americas)
One of Tenerife’s
most famous
establishments. With
the island’s only female
DJ, Paula, in residence,
this lively bar promises
a packed house every
night and a loud,
party atmosphere.
THIS MONTH
GO Take a trip to the
historic and beautiful
town of Candelaría
to view fi rst-hand the
famous basilica and
the Black Madonna
– one of Tenerife’s
biggest tourist sites.
By bus, the journey
takes around an hour.
NO WAY!
The name Tenerife
derives from the
Canarian word tene,
meaning “mountain”,
and ife, “white”: the
white mountain. It is
thought to refer to
Mount Teide.
Natasha Laming
DESTINATION GUIDES | 177
Thessaloniki
Greece
DIALLING CODE +30
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Basel-Mulhouse,
Berlin, Dortmund,
London (LGW), Milan
(MXP), Paris (CDG)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €20.
Route 78 goes
directly to the
city centre. Tickets:
€0.80.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
Molyvos (1
Kapodistriou, tel:
2310 555 952) Set
in a classical-style
mansion, this pleasant
restaurant serves
dishes from around
the Greek islands,
including Cretan rusks
and ample fresh fi sh,
and usually off ers
loukoumades (deepfried
batter balls) as
a free sweet.
EXCLUSIVE
Myrsini (2 Tsopela,
tel: 2310 228 300)
Both the recipes (such
as pork with wild
artichoke) and the
produce come fresh
If you want to continue to read this magazine
and cannot take it with you, visit
traveller.‰.com
.com
from the Siteia area
of Crete and are
served with fl ourish
by the friendly staff ,
along with Cretan
wine and raki.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY To
Kourdisto Gourouni
(31 Agias Sofi as, tel:
2310 274 672) With
a name meaning
“Clockwork Pig”,
this bar-restaurant
lives up to its quirky
moniker by off ering a
bewildering range of
draught and bottled
beers, as well as an
eclectic menu.
LATE & LIVELY
Art House (4
Vogatsikou, tel: 2310
233 761) Ultra-trendy
club that mixes
colourful cocktails to
match the artwork in
its gallery and the
rich palette of sounds
that range from trance
to older style disco,
with dashes of ethnic
in the mix.
THIS MONTH
SEE As Greece’s
second city, you can
be sure there will be
impressive crowds out
for the Independence
Day parade that takes
place on the weekend
of 25 March.
NO WAY!
In 1913, less than a
century ago, almost
three quarters of
the city’s population
were Jews and
Muslims who lived
within the confi nes of
the old city walls.
Nick Edwards
00000 EasyJet WEBSITE 10.02.11.indd 1 13/02/2012 11:51

178 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
Toulouse
France
DIALLING CODE +33
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Basel-Mulhouse,
Bristol, Brussels,
Geneva, Lille, Lisbon,
London (LGW), Lyon,
Madrid, Milan (MXP),
Nantes, Nice, Paris
(CDG, ORY), Porto,
Rome, Venice
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €25.
The Toulouse-
Blagnac Navette
goes to the city centre.
Tickets: €5 single.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
Le Pottok (8 Rue
Arnaud-Bernard, tel:
05 6123 6454) A great
place to fi ll up on a cold
day. The chalkboard
has the specials:
fricassée of calamares,
cassolette of four
cheeses, Italian salads
and homemade bread.
EXCLUSIVE
Le Poelon (Place
Vincent-Auriol,
Labarthe-sur-Leze,
tel: 05 6108 6849) In
a charming village a
couple of kilometres
outside Toulouse, this
restaurant specialises
in game and wild
mushrooms, but
also serves fabulous
fi sh dishes, too.
Leave room for their
moelleux au chocolat.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Le Saint
Jerome (21 Rue du
Saint-Antoine du T,
tel: 05 6122 9066)
Modern tapas bar
done out in cream
tones, with dark-wood
tables ideal for an
early evening drink
and a plate of tapas.
Later on the music
gets louder and it gets
more crowded.
LATE & LIVELY
Texxas Café (26 Rue
Castellane, tel: 05
6199 1415) Fill up on
tasty Tex-Mex food
and slam some tequila
shots, then push back
the tables and get the
party started! Happy
hour lasts several
hours, until 9pm, so
expect a crowded bar.
THIS MONTH
SEE The International
Fair of Toulouse runs
from 31 March to 9
April and highlights
urban life, homes
and gardens, leisure,
gastronomy and more
from all over the world
(foiredetoulouse.com).
NO WAY!
Archaeological
evidence dates
the earliest human
settlement in Toulouse
all the way back to the
year 800BC.
Samantha David
Valencia
Spain
DIALLING CODE +34
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
London (LGW)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €16.
Metro lines 3
and 5 run to the
city centre and train
station. Tickets: €1.90
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
Rivendel (18 Calle
del Hospital, tel:
963 923 208) Find
this café just behind
MuVIM (the Museum
of Illustration and
Modernity) and the
city library. Head here
in the morning for
free Wi-Fi, good
coff ee, pastries
and sandwiches.
EXCLUSIVE
Les Nits (23 Calle
Lepanto, tel: 963
916 340) After 30
years in the business
and winning many
awards, chef Julio Ten
regularly changes his
experimental menus,
but you can always
be sure his food will
be delicious.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY
Finnegan’s (Plaza
de la Reina, tel: 963
922 862) Every
city centre has it’s
defi nitive Irish bar
and this is Valencia’s.
Mix great beers with
delicious bar food and
occasional live music
with a multitude
of international
customers to create
the undefi nable craic.
LATE & LIVELY
Black Note Club
(15 Polo y Peyrolón,
tel: 963 933 663)
Situated near Valencia
FC’s ground, this club
plays blues, soul, latin,
fl amenco and jazz
nightly from Mondays
to Saturdays. At the
weekend, this place is
normally crammed.
NO WAY!
Over 500 Fallas
structures are burned
to the ground on 19
March on La Nit del Foc
(“The Night of Fire”).
Andy McNicoll
FALLAS
FESTIVAL
SEE The Fallas
celebrations through
March are simply
unbelievable the fi rst
time you see them.
Beautiful works of art
dot the city but they
are in fact just giant
bonfi re stacks.
Venice
Italy
DIALLING CODE +39
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
Basel-Mulhouse,
Berlin, Geneva, Ibiza,
Lisbon, London (LGW),
Lyon, Madrid, Naples,
Nice, Paris (CDG, ORY),
Rome, Toulouse
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A water taxi costs €100.
The ATVO bus
takes 20 minutes
to Piazzale Roma.
Tickets: €5 single.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €15 Bar Mio
(1820 Via Garibaldi,
Castello , tel: 041 521
1361) With friendly
service and tasty
panini, pizza slices
and so on, Bar Mio is a
good choice if you fi nd
yourself in this part of
town. It’s a quiet area,
close to the Biennale
gardens and there’s
outdoor seating on
the wide pavement.
UP TO €30
Trattoria all’Antica
Mola (2800
Fondamenta
Ormesini, Cannaregio,
tel: 041 717 492)
Come to this typical
Venetian trattoria to
enjoy local specialities,
including plenty of
fi sh, without breaking
the bank. Dishes
include the famous
sarde in saor, an
intriguing recipe
made with sardines,
sultanas and
pine nuts.
UP TO €50
Trattoria Da Ignazio
(2749 Calle Saoneri,
San Polo, tel: 041 523
4852) Ignazio and
his wife Ada took over
this former wine-bar,
now a charming
trattoria, in 1951. Take
a seat in the light and
bright interior or in
the attractive garden
to enjoy memorable
fresh seafood and
homemade desserts.
EXCLUSIVE
Harry’s Bar (1323
Calle Vallerosso,
San Marco, tel: 041
528 5777) The very
name brings to mind
the refi nement and
elegance of the fi lm
stars of yesteryear,
yet you’ll fi nd a simple
environment that’s
pleasant and relaxing.
Start with one of
the famous bellini
cocktails invented
here, and choose from
a varied food menu –
everything’s delicious.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Imagina
Café (3126 Campo
Santa Margherita,
Dorsoduro, tel: 041
241 0625) Regular
displays of works
by upcoming artists
adorn the walls at this

More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
stylish bar. Open
8am–2am, it’s an ideal
place for a break at
any time of day.
LIVE MUSIC
Teatro La Fenice
(1965 Campo San
Fantin, San Marco)
Experience a show
at Venice’s famous
theatre, close to
St Mark’s Square.
This month sees
a combination of
symphony concerts,
chamber music and
operas, including
Mozart’s Così Fan
Tutte on 1 March
and 3 March.
LATE & LIVELY
Piccolo Mondo
(1056A Calle Contarini
Corfu, Dorsoduro, tel:
041 520 0371) One
of the watery city’s
classic disco-clubs,
the compact interior
of Piccolo Mondo has
welcomed numerous
celebrities over the
years since it opened
in the 1960s.
THIS MONTH
SHOP Colourful
and strikingly simple,
the bold NasonMoretti
glassware designs on
sale at Elle Elle make
perfect souvenirs
from Venice’s glassmaking
island (52
Fondamenta Manin,
Murano, tel: 041
527 4866, elleelle
murano.com).
SEE Close to the
Academia Bridge,
historic Palazzo
Cavalli-Franchetti is
home to the Venice
Institute for Science,
Literature and the
Arts. During March,
it hosts a fascinating
exhibition of Japanese
photography from
1860–1910 (2842
Campo Santo
Stefano, San Marco,
fotografi agiappone.it).
GO A trip to the
glass-making
island of Murano,
where centuries-old
dynasties of craftsmen
continue to thrive, is
a must during any
visit to Venice. You
can watch them at
work and browse the
numerous showrooms
and stores. Visit
the glass museum
for an interesting
background to the
art (8 Fondamenta
Giustinian, museo
vetro.visitmuve.it).
ESCAPE Known as
the vegetable garden
of Venice, the island
of Sant’Erasmo is
particularly famous
for its fl avoursome
artichokes. Leave the
crowds of mainland
Venice behind and
explore the island
for some peace and
tranquillity. It’s a
half-hour boat-trip
from Venice – take
vaporetto 13 from
Fondamenta Nove.
NO WAY!
Alilaguna goes green!
You’ll have to look
out for the transport
company’s new
Energia boats cruising
down the Grand Canal
from the airport to
Rialto – they’re now
equipped with electric
engines, so you won’t
be able to hear them.
Sarah Lane
Verona
Italy
DIALLING CODE +39
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
London (LGW),
Paris (CDG)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €25.
The Aerobus
runs between
the airport and the
city centre every 20
minutes. Tickets: €6.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
Hosteria Cangrande
(5A Via Castelvecchio,
tel: 327 783 6133)
Right opposite the
striking Castelvecchio,
this stylish place off ers
excellent traditional
dishes which, together
with the friendly
service, make it
popular among locals.
EXCLUSIVE Il
Boccondivino (3C Via
Sottoriva, tel: 045 597
214) Warm colours,
an attractive interior,
plus a location in
one of Verona’s most
picturesque streets
make this seafood
restaurant one to try.
Tasty specialities such
as buff alo mozzarella
are served, as well as
fresh fi sh dishes.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Come
Sinatra (18A Via
Stella) Pop into this
tiny bar for a bright
orange spritz, Verona’s
favourite cocktail. The
decor matches the
drink. Tasty bar snacks
and great wines, too.
LATE & LIVELY
Excalibur Club (24
Stradone Antonio
Provolo) This historic
club has a fantastic
location close to
Castelvecchio. DJ sets
and live music in the
atmospheric tavern
room make for a
memorable night out.
THIS MONTH
SEE Vinitaly, Italy’s
top wine event, is
held in Verona each
spring. The exhibition
centre hosts wine
professionals from
all over the world and
numerous tastings and
presentations of the
best vintages (25–28
March, vinitaly.com).
Sarah Lane
NO WAY!
Romeo and Juliet isn’t
Verona’s only tragic
love story – the Pozzo
dell’Amore is linked to
the legend of a young
lady who watched
her suitor jump to his
death, then jumped
in after him.
DESTINATION GUIDES | 179
Vienna
Austria
DIALLING CODE +43
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
London (LGW)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €30.
The CAT trains to
the centre leave
every 30 minutes.
Tickets: €9 single.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
MQ Kantine (1
Museumsplatz,
tel: 01 523 8239)
Culture vultures
checking out the Klimt
jubilee show at the
Museumsquartier
might also enjoy a bite
at the MQ Kantine.
Reasonably priced food
in a fantastic location.
EXCLUSIVE Rote
Bar (Hotel Sacher,
4 Philharmonikerstrasse,
tel: 01 5145
6841) This is time
travel at its most
sumptuous. Gourmets
can go the whole hog
here in an interior replete
with chandeliers,
oil paintings, crimson
velvet and waiters
lifting silver domes.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Café
Sperl (11 Gumpendorfer
Strasse, tel: 01
586 4158) This is one
of your best bets for
an authentic Viennese
café of the old school.
It’s slightly outside the
main tourist stamping
ground, and as a result
is still visited by locals.
Ethan Hawke and Julie
Delpy sipped coff ees
here in cult movie
Before Sunrise.
LATE & LIVELY
Loos American Bar
(10 Karntner Durchgang,
tel: 01 512 3283)
The ideal backdrop for
a fi lm noir, this suave
American bar has
been mixing up killer
cocktails for decades.
Designed by modernist
guru Adolf Loos, this is
a Viennese treasure.
THIS MONTH
SEE Celebrations are
now fully underway for
the 150th anniversary
of the birth of muchloved
painter Gustav
Klimt. Major exhibitions
are being held at the
Kunsthistoriches
Museum, the Leopold
Museum and the
Belvedere Palace.
NO WAY!
Hollywood legend John
Malkovich played Klimt
in a little-known 2006
biopic of the artist. The
fi lm was high on nudity,
low on plot. Malkovich
himself admitted in a
press interview at the
time that art nouveau
was “not my bag”.
Nick Hodge/
vienna-life.com

180 | DESTINATION GUIDES More free monthly guides available at traveller.easyJet.com
Zagreb
Croatia
DIALLING CODE +385
CURRENCY Kuna (HRK)
FLY FROM
Dortmund,
London (LGW),
Paris (CDG)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs
about 250HRK.
The Pleso
Prijevoz buses
run to the city centre
Tickets: 30HRK.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30
Nokturno (4 Skalinska,
tel: 01 481 3394) If you
want something cheap
and cheerful right in
the centre, then this
unfussy old-timer is
a great place to fi ll up
on Croatian delights
alongside the locals.
EXCLUSIVE Boban
(3 Gajeva, tel: 01 481
1549) Something of
a local institution,
this one. Founded by
a famous Croatian
footballer, this Italianinfl
uenced restaurant
serves up excellent
dishes along with
lashings of gorgeous
Croatian wine. The
homemade pasta,
with a delicious array
of sauces, is divine.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Kota (20
Meduliceva) Like a
drop of wine and a bit
of culture? Then Kota
is ideal, a wine barbookstore
where you
can learn everything
you need to know
about Croatia’s
seriously underrated
wines. Try the mighty
Dingac if you dare.
LATE & LIVELY
Sax (22 Palmoticeva,
tel: 01 487 2836) The
best venue for informal
live music in the Lower
Town. Jazz, blues, rock
and even pop are on
the eclectic roster at
this friendly hub.
NO WAY!
Zagreb did not
escape the 1990s
war unscathed. The
city was repeatedly
bombed and
Serbian warplanes
even attacked the
Presidential Palace
in an audacious
assassination attempt.
robinmckelvie.com
LOWER TOWN
GO Lower Town, a
stately oasis of parks
and neoclassical
architecture, dates
back to the days
when Zagreb was
part of the Habsburg
Empire. Check out its
grand architecture.
Zante
Greece
DIALLING CODE +30
CURRENCY €
FLY FROM
London (LGW),
Milan (MXP)
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs €13.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Arekia
(Dionyssiou Roma,
Zante Town, tel: 26950
26346) Located on
the coast road leading
north, this venue is
renowned for the
traditional cantades
(serenades) you can
hear here. With ample,
fresh, home-style
cooking, local wine
and a friendly
atmosphere, this is
one of the island’s
outstanding tavernas.
EXCLUSIVE Komis
(Bastouni tou Agiou,
Zante Town, tel: 26950
26915) If you can
splash the cash while
you’re away, this is the
place to come. Located
near the main dock and
decorated with marine
paraphernalia, here
you can order superb
fresh fi sh and seafood
– a good choice is
the mydia saganaki
(mussels fried with
tomato and cheese).
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY Lobby
(18–20 Lombardou,
Zante Town, tel: 26950
25250) This chilledout
seafront café is a
decent spot to relax
in a comfy chair and
watch the action in the
port while sipping on
a coff ee or beer,
or sampling one of
their simple snacks.
LATE & LIVELY
Ghetto (Laganas)
One of the longestestablished
clubs
in the busy resort
of Laganas, Ghetto
pumps out a mixture
of the latest techno
and trance sounds
with occasional Greek
favourites in its hi-tech,
air-conditioned interior.
THIS MONTH
SEE Greek National
Independence Day
and the Feast of the
Assumption are
celebrated together
with a military and
schoolchildren’s
parade in Zakynthos
Town and church
services throughout
the island (25 March).
NO WAY!
The island is the
centre of Greek nougat
production. Known
locally as mandolato,
more of the honey-
and almond-based
sweet is produced
here than the rest of
the country combined.
Nick Edwards
See page
131
Zürich
Switzerland
DIALLING CODE +41
CURRENCY CHF
FLY FROM
London (LGW,
LTN), Manchester
FROM THE
AIRPORT
TAXI
Pre-book your taxi
at easyJet.com.
A local taxi costs 60CHF
Trains leave
the airport
every 10 minutes.
Tickets: 6.40CHF.
Visit the Europcar
desk for special
easyJet rates.
BON APPETIT
UP TO €30 Mishio
(9 Sihlstrasse, tel:
044 228 7676) Fast
and tasty Asian
dishes, that’s what
you get at Mishio.
Take your pick
from a selection of
noodles, curries and
dishes from the wok,
everything cooked by
the all-Asian staff in
the open kitchen.
EXCLUSIVE
Heugümper (4
Waaggasse, tel:
044 211 1660) The
“Grasshopper” off ers
international cuisine
and classic Swiss
dishes with a twist.
The atmosphere in
this old townhouse
is elegant.
AFTER DARK
LOW KEY
Tina Bar (10
Niederdorfstrasse,
tel: 044 250 7686)
Even though this oldschool
bar has just
reopened after some
gentle renovation,
it still exudes the
charm of a bar of
the good old days.
A timeless piece of
Zürich bar history.
LATE & LIVELY
Exil (245 Hardstrasse,
tel: 043 366 8684)
National and foreign
bands playing styles
from indie rock
through folk and rap
to electro are live on
stage almost every
night of the week.
Great regular aftershow
parties.
THIS MONTH
GO Many of the
former shady bars in
the red-light district
around Langstrasse
have turned into
some of the city’s
fanciest and trendiest
bars in the last couple
of years, making
the district one of
the best areas for
nightlife in Zürich.
NO WAY!
Fifty years ago,
Zürich actually had
around 60,000
more inhabitants
than today. 445,000
inhabitants were
counted in 1962.
After decades of
declining fi gures,
a rise set in around
1999. The city is back!
Chris Young/zurich.
inyourpocket.com
www.eslcompany.com

PHOTO © RICCARDO ANTIMIANI/EIDON
11
PAGES OF
NEWS AND
UPDATES
FROM
I’VE BEEN WORKING in aviation
for about 15 years, but until last year
I worked for a long-haul airline. I loved
my job and felt privileged to be able to
see the world, but the time came when
I decided to start a family. Being away
for up to nine days at a time from my
small children didn’t seem logical, so
I decided to fi nd a job in short haul.
I was very excited to see easyJet
recruiting in Rome, where I live with my
daughters, aged three and four, and my
husband. I had friends who’d worked
for easyJet and spoken highly of the
company, so I decided to give it a go.
easyJet’s crew share a real passion
for fl ying. I’ve met some amazing
people who make work entertaining. We
work very unusual hours and this career
isn’t for everyone, but with the right
attitude and a sense of humour, those
aspects aren’t issues. I love going to
work because it’s such a good laugh.
One clear night, for instance,
I was operating a fl ight across the
Mediterranean when I was called to the
fl ight deck by the captain. On opening
the fl ight-deck door, I was immediately
struck by a fantastic view of the full
moon with its refl ection on the sea.
At that exact moment, the captain
and the fi rst offi cer turned to me, both
with one arm stretched to greet me and
the other on their hearts, and began to
serenade me with the old Dean Martin
song That’s Amore. Their crazy singing,
along with the beautiful view, really
made me laugh.
Another funny thing happened to
me 14 years ago. I was working as a
NEWS | OUR PEOPLE
Rachel Owens’s
working life has
brought her many
good things...
including her family
BEHIND THE SCENES
Cabin Crew Rachel Owens says her job gives her life balance and makes her laugh
cabin manager on a fl ight to Rome.
After landing, I opened the aircraft door
and was met by a handsome Italian
aircraft representative. Fireworks fl ew,
the angels played their harps and a
bright light shone from above. He’s now
my husband of 10 years and the proud
father of our two beautiful daughters!
Apart from the fun and travel
involved, for me the best thing about
working for easyJet is that I can have a
balance between work and private life.
I can fi nally give both the dedication
that I feel they deserve.
easyJet is a young, dynamic
company that recognises the skills and
talents that its employees possess. With
the company’s expansion, I’m really
happy to be here and excited about the
future that lies ahead for me.
TRAVELLER | 183

CUSTOMER | CARE
Great
customer
service
We want you to have a superb
experience onboard
It’s important for us to know which of our
pilots and cabin crew really shine – so we
have created The easyJet Spirit Awards,
to reward our people for the great service
you receive.
Please visit spirit.easyJet.com to let us
know which of our crew has the “orange
spirit”. We value your help! You’ll fi nd
further details of how to get in touch with
us in the yellow box below.
We Need Your Help!
Think any of our people have the
orange spirit? Then let us know!
★ Find out the name of the cabin crew
member or pilot.
★ Log on to spirit.easyJet.com and vote
for them, giving your fl ight details, name,
and email address. It’s as simple as that!
Say “THANK YOU” and share the
orange spirit!
Wir brauchen Ihre Hilfe!
Wer von uns hat den besten
“Orange Spirit”?
★ Der “Spirit Award” ist eine interne
Auszeichnung, um denjenigen Kollegen
How to Contact Us easyJet.custhelp.com
Our customer
services team
is available to help
you. They are open
8am–8pm everyday
(local times).*
0843 104 5000
184 | TRAVELLER
0820 420 315
199 201 840
902 599 900
01805 666 000
0848 282 828
0900 040 1048
703 103 988
easyJet Star
Of The Month
PEDRO SANCHEZ-LOPEZ, OUR
AWARD-WINNING CABIN MANAGER
FROM MADRID, says, “Orange Spirit
is about making the day a special
experience for every customer. It is
also about showing everyone how
proud we are to wear the uniform
and work for the company and
spread the passion. It gives me
great satisfaction.”
If you think Pedro or any of his
colleagues have shown their
Orange Spirit, please visit spirit.
easyJet.com to let us know!
oder Kollegin zu nominieren, der den
besten Kundenservice leistet.
★ Bitte helfen Sie uns, dieses Mitglied der
Kabinenbesatzung bzw. diesen Piloten
ausfi ndig zu machen, der diese Kriterien
am besten erfüllt. Bitte besuchen Sie
folgende Website: spirit.easyJet.com
Vielen Dank, dass Sie Ihren “Orange
Spirit” mit uns teilen.
Nous avons besoin de vous!
Qui a l'Orange Spirit?
★ Les Spirit Awards est notre façon
de reconnaître l'équipage de cabine
et les pilotes qui offrent le meilleur
service client.
★ S'il vous plaît, n’hésitez pas à nous
aider en visitant « spirit.easyJet.com » et
nous communiquer le nom des personnes
méritant une reconnaissance particulière.
Merci de partager l'Orange Spirit!
Abbiamo Bisogno del tuo aiuto!
Chi ha lo Spirito Arancione?
0820 320 950
812 200 8999
0601 90199
458 988 1032
9723 763 0561
Rest of the world
+44 843 104 5454
CABIN
CREW OF
THE YEAR
2011
* Please refer to
easyJet.com for call
charges. Calls may be
recorded to improve
your experience
when travelling with
or contacting us.
★ La Spirit Awards è il nostro modo di
riconoscere il personale di cabina ed i
piloti che offrono il miglior servizio ai
nostril clienti.
★ Vi preghiamo di aiutarci visitando
il sito spirit.easyJet.com e dirci chi
dei nostri equipaggi si merita un
riconoscimento speciale.
Grazie per aver condiviso lo Spirito
Arancione!
Necesitamos tu ayuda!
Quien tiene el espiritu Naranja?
★ Los premios “Spirit Awards”
son nuestra forma de reconocer a aquellos
de nuestros tripulantes de cabina y
pilotos que ofrecen la mejor atencion
al cliente.
★ Ayudenos por favor visitando
spirit.easyJet.com y diciendonos que
individuos cree usted que merecen un
reconocimiento especial.
Gracias por compartir con nosotros el
espiritu naranja!
In case of emergency while you are abroad, you can use one common number all over the EU free of charge: 112.
This enables you to reach all emergency services (fi re, police, medical) in the 27 countries of the EU.
Follow us on Twitter
@easyJetCare
We’re on Twitter – follow
us to receive information
on how to make your
travel experience better.

Safety Onboard
Whilst on board this fl ight we would ask that
you consider your fellow passengers and
also pay attention to the information below.
Our cabin crew will be happy to answer
any questions that you may have. Please
remember that they are on board primarily for
your safety but also for your comfort.
★ Smoking
Smoking on any easyJet fl ight is
strictly forbidden, this includes
the use of electronic cigarettes.
★ Alcohol
Alcoholic drinks are available on board as
detailed in our retail brochure. These are
served at the crew’s discretion to passengers
of legal drinking age. While on board, you are
only permitted to consume alcoholic drinks
purchased from the easyJet Bistro. It is an
off ence under Section 19 of the Air Navigation
Order 2010 (Prohibited Behaviour) to be
drunk on board an aircraft. The cabin crew
reserve the right to stop serving alcohol to
any passenger who is or appears to be drunk.
Duty-free alcohol can be purchased from
the easyJet Boutique (subject to route) but
cannot be consumed on board.
★ Your conduct on board
In accordance with UK and International law,
the Captain is in command of the aircraft and
every person on board shall obey his or her
lawful commands. Captains have the authority
to take any actions they deem necessary
to manage passengers who are disruptive
or cause problems during fl ights, under the
Prohibited Behaviour regulations quoted
above. Our primary concern is for the safety
or our passengers and crew. We have a
zero-tolerance policy with regard to
passengers who are verbally or physically
disruptive towards any other person on board
the aircraft. Crew are trained to deal with any
such situations and will always put the safety
of the aircraft, crew and other passengers fi rst.
★ Safety equipment
It is an off ence to tamper with or remove
any safety equipment on board this aircraft,
including the life jackets. Any such actions
may jeopardise the safety of other passengers
and lead to prosecution. As explained in the
safety announcement, life cots for babies and
life jackets for infants will be provided in the
event of a landing on water.
★ Safe stowage of your hand baggage
Please ensure that your cabin baggage
remains safely stowed for take-off and landing
and at any time as instructed by the crew.
Place small bags under the seat in front of you
(unless you are seated in an emergency exit
row); larger items must go in the overhead
lockers. Place your bag securely in the locker
and take care when opening lockers, as falling
items may injure fellow passengers.
★ Sharps boxes
Hypodermic needles are
permitted on board for medical
use and should always be
PASSENGER | INFO
disposed of in a sharps box. If you need to
dispose of a needle, or other sharp item,
please contact a member of the cabin crew.
★ Electronic devices
In accordance with Civil Aviation Authority
safety regulations, the use of devices for
messaging, calls or internet access must
remain switched off once the aircraft doors
are closed.
Some devices can be used during the fl ight
(but not during take-off and landing), these
include:
★ Bluetooth devices, excluding telephones.
★ Devices (including PDAs and smart phones)
that have a fl ight-safe mode, provided this is
enabled before the aircraft doors are closed.
The device must then be switched off for
take-off and again for landing.
★ Laptops and tablet PCs including those with
built-in WLAN/Wi-Fi, provided the WLAN/Wi-Fi
is switched off prior to the doors being closed.
★ Electronic games, ebooks, MP3, DVD and
CD players, provided that any WLAN/Wi-Fi is
switched off prior to the doors being closed.
If in doubt, please keep devices switched off for
the duration of the fl ight as they may interfere
with our systems.
Our Fleet Our Awards
Hypodermic
syringes
Our aircraft are among the youngest in the world, with an average age of 4.1 years!
AIRBUS A319 AIRBUS A320
SEATING CAPACITY 156 180
NUMBER OF CREW 2 pilots & 4 cabin crew 2 pilots & 4 cabin crew
TAKE-OFF SPEED 240 km/h 240 km/h
CRUISING SPEED 805 km/h 837 km/h
RANGE 4,830km 4,910km
NO. OF AIRCRAFT 163 37
★ Best Low-Cost Airline,
Business Traveller Magazine
★ Best Low-Cost Airline in
Europe for customer Product
and Service Quality at the
2011 World Airline Awards.
★ Europe’s Leading Low-Cost
Airline at the 2011 World
Travel Awards, for the third
consecutive year.
TRAVELLER | 185

NOTICIAS | ESPAÑA
El Shakespeare
más intercultural
de todos los
tiempos
Desde el mes de abril y
hasta principios de julio el
Reino Unido acoge el World
Shakespeare Festival, un
festival teatral con el objetivo
de difundir mostrar al público
diferentes versiones de
las obras de Shakespeare,
interpretadas por gente de
todas las razas, culturas y
religiones.
Cada día y durante 6
semanas jóvenes compañías
de todo el mundo llenarán
los teatros de las ciudades de
Stratford upon Avon, Londres,
Newcastle-Gateshead,
Birmingham, Bridgend,
Brighton y Edimburgo.
¡Un ambicioso evento sin
precedente! La participación
española correrá a cargo de la
compañía Rakatá el 29 y 30 de
mayo, con la representación
de Enrique VIII en español,
imaginando la historia desde
una perspectiva española.
Esta es la primera vez que
se celebra un festival de teatro
de estas magnitudes en el
Reino Unido y apunta a ser
todo un éxito. Por eso, si eres
amante de este país, te gusta
el teatro y te defi nes como una
persona a quien le interesa
la multiculturalidad, ¡no te lo
puedes perder por nada del
mundo! Ya sabes que con
easyJet, ¡lo tienes más fácil
imposible!
186 | TRAVELLER
Los 5
destinos que
no te puedes
perder en
Semana Santa
Si a estas alturas necesitas unas
pequeñas vacaciones, aprovecha
la Semana Santa para hacerlo. Una
escapadita a alguno de los rincones
que esconde Europa puede ser un
buen método para recargar las pilas.
LISBOA: La capital portuguesa
nos ofrece miles de actividades y
rincones que visitar. Desde perderse
por los callejones del casco antiguo,
escuchar fados en el Chiado o el
Barrio alto –la zona más bohemia
de la ciudad- hasta dar una vuelta en
su medio de transporte estrella: el
tranvía. Con easyjet puedes visitarla
desde 21,99 euros.
EDIMBURGO: Si te gusta la
naturaleza y no te da miedo el frío, tu
destino es Edimburgo (desde 33,99
euros), una de las ciudades más
misteriosas y bonitas del este de
Escocia. No puedes pasar por alto la
Royal Mile, una calle de casi 2 km que
comunica el castillo de Edimburgo
con el Palacio de Holyroodhouse.
¡Y no olvides tomarte una pinta en
cualquiera de los pubs de la ciudad!
easyJet ha expandido sus redes en el
Reino Unido y ahora connecta ciudades
como Barcelona, Alicante, Ibiza, Málaga
o Mallorca con un nuevo aeropuerto:
Londres Southend. ¡Y qué mejor
momento para hacerlo que ahora!
Te hemos dejado sin excusas para
no visitar Londres, la futura ciudad de
los Juegos de 2012, porque con easyJet
dispones de más de 70 vuelos a la
venta cada semana desde 21,99 euros
en esta ruta que empezará a operar el
2 de abril. Además, para llegar al centro
LYON: Rodeada por los ríos Rodano
y Saona, la ciudad de Lyon presume
de tener un barrio renacentista
–Le vieux Lyon-, reconocido como
Patrimonio de la Humanidad por
la UNESCO. Algunos hasta la han
llegado a nombrar como la Florencia
francesa. Si quieres pasear por esta
romántica ciudad, lo puedes hacer
con easyJet desde 33,99 euros.
MILAN: Si el diseño y la moda te
pierden, Milán es tu destino. Podrás
combinar las compras por la Galería
Vittorio Emanuelle con las visitas a
sus principales atractivos culturales
como la iglesia de Santa Marie delle
Grazie o la Piazza del Duomo. Con
easyjet, desde sólo 26,99 euros.
ROMA: Pedir un deseo en La Fontana
di Trevi, comerte una pizza en la
Piazza di Espagna o ponerte en la piel
de los antiguos romanos visitando
el Colisseo, son algunas de las
muchas cosas que podrás hacer en
tu espectacular viaje a Roma. easyJet
vuela a Roma desde 28,99 euros; si
no vas, es porque no quieres.
Southend, la nueva conexión
de Londres 2012
de la ciudad, sólo hace falta andar unos
minutos para acceder al tren que une el
aeropuerto con la estación de Liverpool
St. y Stratford.
Para celebrar esta nueva apertura,
easyJet contactó con una abanderada
de honor, la campeona olímpica Sally
Gunner, nacida en Essex y que se
mostró muy emocionada al saber
que su ciudad natal connectaría
directamente con la ciudad olímpica
que le dio una medalla de oro,
Barcelona.
PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK

4 motivi per scegliere Londra.
Più uno.
Le Olimpiadi non sono l’unica
attrazione che Londra ha da
off rire. Qui vi facciamo qualche
esempio, ma è chiaro che si tratta
di un antipasto. Il resto sta a voi
scoprirlo. Noi ci accontentiamo di
accompagnarvi e di aggiungere un
quarto punto all’elenco.
■ Giusto un po’ di shopping: solo
in Oxford Street ci sono quasi 300
tra negozi e grandi magazzini. Tra
questi c’è anche il mitico Selfridges
che ha sicuramente il regalo perfetto
per ogni vostro amico rimasto a
casa. E soprattutto, ha il più grande
ripiano al mondo dedicato alle
scarpe. Mettetevi comodi.
■ Il ritmo della città: cosa hanno
in comune Adele e i Led Zeppelin?
Non una canzone (almeno, non
per ora), ma la loro culla artistica.
Evidentemente nella City è facile
trovare l’ispirazione giusta. Se siete
alla ricerca del prossimo gruppo di
successo, provate al The Barfl y Club,
5 giorni speciali per Amsterdam
VOLI DA MILANO MALPENSA E DA
ROMA FIUMICINO
Ad Amsterdam non mancano le
occasioni per divertirsi. E tra il 7 e l’11
a Camden Town, dove sono nati i Blur,
gli Oasis, i Coldplay e i Muse. Avanti il
prossimo.
■ La letteratura come non la
insegnano a scuola: visitare le case
dei protagonisti della letteratura ci
permette di scoprire i loro segreti
più interessanti. Quali saranno quelli
di Dickens e Keats? Scopritelo
spiando nelle loro residenze. Per gli
appassionati di Sherlock Holmes,
invece, c’è una ricostruzione di
quella che sarebbe la sua abitazione,
secondo i racconti di Sir Conan Doyle.
■ La libertà di scegliere: i voli
easyJet per la capitale inglese sono
molti, come molti sono gli aeroporti di
partenza. Così per arrivare a Londra
Gatwick potete decidere se partire
da Bologna, Catania, Milano Linate
o Malpensa, Roma, Napoli, Pisa,
Venezia, Verona, Olbia, Bari, Catania
o Palermo. E ancora, abbiamo voli da
Milano Malpensa e da Pisa diretti a
Londra Luton.
marzo, ce n’è una in più. È il “5 Days
Off ”, un festival che accontenta sia gli
amanti della techno che della dubstep.
I concerti si dividono tra due templi
della musica. Il primo è il Paradiso, un’ex
chiesa il cui altare è diventato il palco
delle più grandi star, dai Nirvana ai
White Stripes, dai Rolling Stones a Lady
Gaga. La seconda location è il Melkweg,
la “Via Lattea”, il club dei DJ emergenti.
Ma il “5 Days Off ” non è solo musica:
grazie alla collaborazione del NIMk,
potrete anche assistere alle opere di
una trentina di artisti multimediali.
4 salti a
Copenhagen
VOLI DA MILANO MALPENSA
A marzo Copenhagen diventa
la capitale del ballo. Per
dimostrarvelo, vi faremo 3
esempi che riguardano 3 tipi
di danza molto diversi tra loro.
Partiamo dal Dans2Go: fi no al
24 marzo il Royal Theatre off re
spettacoli di balletto a prezzi
speciali. Se il classico non è il
vostro genere, speriamo che
almeno una delle 3 piste del Park
Café soddisfi i vostri gusti. Ma per
rendere davvero indimenticabile
il vostro viaggio, vi consigliamo
qualcosa di inaspettato. Come
andare in Danimarca e assistere
al settimo meeting di capoeira,
dall’8 all’11 marzo. Non è proprio
la danza tipica del posto, ma
quando vi ricapita?
Puntate il 6 su
Napoli
NOTIZIE | ITALIA
VOLI DA MILANO MALPENSA E
DA VENEZIA
Nella smorfi a 6 è il numero della
primavera. E noi vi consigliamo
di passarla proprio nella patria
della smorfi a. Innanzitutto,
perché avete la possibilità – più
unica che rara – di pattinare
sul ghiaccio vicino al magnifi co
Castel Nuovo. Fino all’8 marzo,
infatti, l’Ice Park porterà nel
capoluogo campano un po’ d’aria
di montagna. Per chi non sa
pattinare sono previste lezioni
gratuite e spettacoli di atleti e
artisti. Per tornare a qualcosa
di più tipico, vi basta fare una
passeggiata fi no al Teatro
Augusteo, entrare all’Antica
Capri e seguire i consigli del
proprietario Rosario. Se alla fi ne
avrete ancora posto per il dolce,
spostatevi all’Antico Forno delle
Sfogliatelle Calde, vicino alla
stazione ferroviaria di Napoli
Centrale. Sbagliarsi è impossibile:
basta seguire il profumo di
prelibatezze appena sfornate.
TRAVELLER | 187

DERNIÈRES INFOS/NEUIGKEITEN | SUISSE/SCHWEIZ
Frühlingsspass
Der Winter geht zur Neige und der
Frühling steht vor der Tür. Bald
erblühen die ersten Krokusse
und dann ist auch schon wieder
Ostern. Gönne dir doch dieses
Jahr mal ein paar richtig schöne,
erholsame Tage an einer unserer
Destinationen ab Basel-Freiburg.
Rom lockt im Frühjahr mit
animierten Plätzen und abwechslungsreichem
Nachtleben. In
Berlin ziehen die ersten warmen
Sonnenstrahlen die Berliner an
die Flussufer und in die Parks und
in Amsterdam beginnt die Zeit
der Grachtenfahrten. Ein ganz
anderes Ambiente fi ndest du
in Tel Aviv oder Istanbul und die
Kanarischen Inseln bieten
Osterspass bei milden
Temperaturen. Überzeuge dich
selbst von unserem Angebot
auf easyJet.com.
Sonnenbaden auf
den Inseln
Die Kanarischen Inseln locken mit
langen Stränden, gutem Essen
und einzigartigen Landschaften.
Auf Teneriff a befi ndet sich der
höchste Berg Spaniens, der Pico
del Teide, der mit seinem Krater
Las Cañadas alle grossen und
kleinen Besucher beeindruckt.
Abwechslungsreiche
Landschaften zu erleben gibt
es auf dem „Miniaturkontinent“
Gran Canaria, der auch für
sein pulsierendes Nachtleben
der Hauptstadt Las Palmas
bekannt ist. Und seit Dezember
geht es nun auch nach
Fuerteventura. Die beliebte
Ferieninsel zieht Familien,
Paare und Abenteurer wegen
seiner langen Sandstrände und
Wetterbedingungen, die sich
ideal zu diversen sportlichen
Aktivitäten im Wasser und an
Land eignen, an.
Entdecke nun selber eine dieser
tollen Inseln und buche auf
easyJet.com deine Flüge ab
Basel-Freiburg.
188 | TRAVELLER
Plus de vols
de Genève
vers Nice
La Côte d’Azur se présente sous son
meilleur aspect au printemps et en
été. Profi tez du charme de Nice, une
ville où le soleil brille presque toute
l’année et promenez-vous sur la
Promenade des Anglais juste au bord
de la plage et de ses merveilleuses
villas ou grands hôtels.
Une autre région facile à accéder
depuis Nice est la Provence. Au
printemps vous pouvez découvrir
les champs de coquelicots et de
lavande. Nice est le meilleur point
de départ pour visiter la Côte d’Azur
ou la Provence. Nous off rons jusqu’
Nouveau : Athènes au départ
de Genève
Découvrez notre nouvelle destination
au départ de Genève. À partir du 19
Avril nous off rons trois vols par semaine
vers Athènes. La capitale grecque off re
tout ce qu’il faut pour quelque jours
loin du traintrain quotidien. Divers
sites archéologiques représentent une
culture ancienne et impressionnante et
Le nouvel aéroport
de Berlin
Le saviez-vous? Le 3 Juin 2012 le
nouvel aéroport Berlin-Brandebourg
de la capitale allemande ouvre ses
portes. Situé juste à côté de l’aéroport
Schönefeld, il remplacera les deux
aéroports Tegel et Schönefeld et
deviendra l’unique plateforme
desservant la capitale. Il aura une bonne
correspondance en bus et train vers
le centre ville et disposera d’une gare
avec des connexions internationales.
Au départ de Genève nous off rons
jusqu’à 2 vols par jour vers la capitale
allemande.
à 4 vols par jour au départ de
Genève vers Nice et en été nous
augmentons nos fréquences à 5
vols par jour vers cette merveilleuse
destination au sud de la France.
une vie nocturne sophistiquée et variée
permet aux touristes d’interagir avec
les habitants de la capitale.
Le port de Pirée off re non seulement
une bonne connexion aux Îles grecques
mais aussi des cafés et bars en bord de
mer. Réservez maintenant vos vols et
envolez-vous vers Athènes.
Neuer Flughafen Berlin
Brandenburg
Am 3. Juni 2012 öff net der neue
Flughafen Berlin Brandenburg seine
Pforten. Die beiden ehemaligen Berliner
Flughäfen Tegel und Schönefeld haben
dann ausgesorgt und werden von dem
neuen Hauptstadtfl ughafen ersetzt,
der sich direkt neben Schönefeld
befi ndet. Abgesehen von einer Vielzahl
von Restaurants, Hotels und diversen
Einkaufsmöglichkeiten, wird der
Flughafen über ausgezeichnete Bus- und
S-Bahnverbindungen zur Innenstadt, sowie
über einen Bahnhof mit internationalen
Bahnverbindungen verfügen. Ab Juni geht
es also nicht mehr nach Berlin Schönefeld
sondern nach Berlin Brandenburg. Ab
Basel-Freiburg kannst du bis zu dreimal
täglich in die deutsche Hauptstadt fl iegen.
PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK

Sonnige
Aussichten fürs
Wochenende
Wer nicht von montags bis freitags
die Wetternachrichten beobachten
möchte, um auf ein wenig Sonne am
Wochenende zu hoff en, bucht bei
uns einfach Flüge nach Griechenland,
Italien, Spanien und Südfrankreich,
wo die sonnige Wahrscheinlichkeit
ein gutes Stückchen höher liegt!
Ob langes Wochenende über die
Brückentage oder ganz normales
Weekend, die beeindruckenden
Sehenswürdigkeiten der italienischen
Hauptstadt Rom lassen sich
besonders entspannt bestaunen,
wenn Roms Straßencafés
zur erholsamen Pause in der
Frühlingssonne bitten. Wenn du auf
deine „bella fi gura“ bedacht bist,
fi ndest du in Roms Einkaufsstraßen
italienische Mode und Schuhe
oder du jettest gleich mit uns
in die Modemetropole Mailand!
Der Shoppingtrip in Mailands
Modeviertel lässt sich mit einem
Abstecher an die norditalienischen
Seen – Lago Maggiore, Comer See
und Gardasee – verbinden. Oder
atme in der Provence den Duft von
Lavendel, Seifen und feinen Parfums
ein, welche auf Nizzas Blumenmarkt
am Cours Saleya neben allerlei
Schneller geht’s nicht!
Mit der neuen, kostenlosen easyJet
App für iPhones und Android-Phones
kannst du jetzt schneller und einfacher
als je zuvor Flüge suchen, buchen
und verwalten! Du hast mehr Gepäck
oder willst unter den Ersten an Bord?
Buche Gepäck und Speedy Boarding
einfach zu deinen Flügen hinzu!
Zudem informiert dich die App über
den aktuellen Flugstatus, so dass
du immer sehen kannst, ob deine
Freunde und Verwandten, die du vom
Flughafen abholst, bereits gelandet
sind! Gleich bei iTunes und dem
Android Market runterladen!
Köstlichkeiten feilgeboten werden!
In Nizzas Altstadt schlenderst du
nach Herzenslust durch schmale
Gassen, um anschließend auf den
Spuren großer Künstler durch
renommierte Museen zu wandeln!
Der Kontrast aus idyllischen Dörfern
der Provence und mondänen
Badeorten an der Küste macht
den Reiz der Côte d’Azur aus,
an der sich die internationale
Prominenz – nicht nur während der
Filmfestspiele von Cannes vom 16. -
27. Mai 2012 – ein Stelldichein gibt!
Spanienfans starten mit uns bis zu
dreimal täglich von Berlin und bis zu
viermal in der Woche von Dortmund
nach Barcelona, an die spanische
Mittelmeerküste! Die lebensfrohe,
spanische Küstenmetropole ist das
perfekte Ziel für einen Kurztrip in den
Süden, denn in Barcelona kannst du
Stadtleben, Shopping und Clubbing
mit einer Tapas-Tour und Chill-out am
Meer kombinieren!
Frühbucher aufgepasst
Der Frühling steht vor der Tür und
schneller als man sich versieht,
ist auch schon der Sommer da!
Echte Sparfüchse buchen jetzt ihre
Sommerfl üge und profi tieren von den
günstigsten Preisen, denn wer früh
bucht, spart am Meisten! Besonders mit
der Buchung deiner Flüge auf unseren
beliebten Sommerstrecken nach
Kroatien und Griechenland solltest du
nicht zu lange warten! Ganz neu
ab Juni haben wir von Berlin
Brandenburg bis zu zweimal in der
Woche die Sonneninseln Mykonos
und Rhodos im Programm!
NEUIGKEITEN | DEUTSCHLAND
Castles, Pints
und Festivals
Großbritanniens Vielfalt ergibt
sich nicht zuletzt aus dem Mix
von britischen Traditionen und
kulturellen Einfl üssen aus der
ganzen Welt! Von Süden nach
Norden und von Ost nach West
kannst du gewaltige Küsten und
prächtige Seebäder, quirlige
Metropolen und atemberaubende
Landschaften entdecken, übersät
mit Relikten aus der Vergangenheit,
wie dem Geheimnis umwobenen
Stonehenge, historischen
Burgen schottischer Clans und
prachtvollen Herrenhäusern! Beim
obligatorischen Pint im Pub wirst du
in deinen Erinnerungen schwelgen
und spätestens auf einem der
unzähligen Festivals schwören, dass
du wieder kommst! Wir bringen
dich schnell und günstig nach
Großbritannien! Wir fl iegen dich zu
gleich sechs Zielen im Vereinigten
Königreich: London, Bristol,
Manchester, Liverpool, Edinburgh
und Glasgow. Weitere Details, wie
Flugzeiten und Frequenzen, fi ndest
du unter easyJet.com!
Sonnenbad oder
Wüstenritt?
Die moderne Küstenstadt Agadir
am Atlantik ist vor allem aufgrund
ihrer mehr als 300 Sonnentagen
einer der beliebtesten Urlaubsorte
Marokkos. Die zehn Kilometer
lange Strandpromenade zieht sich
vom neuen Yachthafen „Marina
Agadir“, vorbei an modernen
Boutiquen und Restaurants, entlang
der Bucht in Richtung Süden.
Golfplätze ermöglichen ganzjährig
die Verbesserung des Handicaps
und unter Surfern gilt Agadir
als einer der besten Surfspots
Marokkos. Exotische Gewürze und
Kunsthandwerk kannst du auf dem
großen Souk bestaunen. Flüge
nach Agadir gibt’s ab Berlin bis
zu zweimal pro Woche!
TRAVELLER | 189

DERNIERES INFOS | FRANCE
Grande-Bretagne.
Vous êtes invités
Il y a moins de 1 700km d’un
bout à l’autre de la Grande-
Bretagne. Pourtant, la variété
des paysages, de la culture et de
l’histoire que vous y découvrirez
vous épatera. La Grande-
Bretagne est un lieu où la poésie
est écrite dans les paysages,
où les histoires d’antan vivent
dans les châteaux centenaires
et où la mode du 21ème siècle
côtoie des icônes, de Big Ben au
château d’Edimbourg.
2012 est une grande année
pour la Grande-Bretagne :
Jubilé de Diamant de la Reine
Elisabeth en juin, suivi par le
plus grand évènement sportif
au monde, les jeux Olympiques
de Londres en 2012.
Partagez avec nous ces
moments de fête, entre
événements sportifs et
manifestations culturelles : la
Fashion week de Londres, le
festival du château d’Edimbourg
ou le festival de Shakespeare
qui réunira des milliers d’artistes
venus du monde entier pour
se produire dans près de 70
spectacles.
Des sports nautiques
sur les côtes galloises, des
dégustations de Whisky en
Ecosse en passant par la
tournée des bars à Manchester
ou des visites de galeries
d’arts à Oxford. Quoi que vous
cherchiez en 2012, vous le
trouverez en Grande-Bretagne.
Découvrez votre invitation en
Grande-Bretagne sur www.
visitbritain.
com
190 | TRAVELLER
Spécial
vacances
estivales 2012
NOUVEAU : la Calabre et la Crête.
2 vols par semaine sur chacune des
destinations
LAMEZIA, authentique et fi ère.
Naples, la Sicile avec Catane et
Palerme étaient déjà desservies
par notre compagnie. Désormais,
pendant les vacances estivales,
vous pourrez aussi vous frotter à la
pointe de la botte, l’extrémité Sud
de l’Italie, en atterrissant à l’aéroport
de Lamezia. Cette ville de 70 000
habitants environ sera le point de
départ d’un séjour de rêve sur de
belles plages qui alternent avec de
magnifi ques côtes rocheuses.
Entre mer ionienne et mer
Tyrrhénienne, à quelques kilomètres
du détroit de Messine qui permet
de rallier la Sicile, vous découvrirez
également le charme rugueux de
villes comme Reggio de Calabre
ou Catanzaro : la Calabre est
certainement l’une des régions
italiennes qui a conservé le plus son
identité agricole avec des oliviers
et des arbres fruitiers aux saveurs
intactes.
Si vous aimez cependant
également les hôtels de prestige,
vous trouverez un des fl eurons de
l’hôtellerie française à Capovaticano
avec spa et thalasso. Jetez donc
un coup d’œil sur la rubrique
26 mars 2012
ENCORE, ENCORE !
Plus de destinations, plus de raisons de
voyager.
AU DÉPART DE TOULOUSE :
easyJet vous propose 6 nouvelles
destinations: Bâle-Mulhouse, Bruxelles,
Lille, Nice, Venise et Porto soit au total
16 destinations à bas prix et jusqu’à 140
vols par semaine.
AU DÉPART DE NICE:
7 nouvelles destinations: Bordeaux,
hôtels de notre site Internet. Vous
comprendrez qu’aujourd’hui, il est
possible de concilier avec nous
le sens du confort et le sens
des aff aires.
Prix à partir de 49,99€* au départ de
Paris du 5 juillet au 2 septembre 2012
HÉRAKLION, bronzez beau et
intelligent !
Avec un peu de chance, si vous
allez cette année à Héraklion, votre
visite coïncidera peut-être avec la
réouverture du musée archéologique
d’Héraklion dont les collections
parmi les plus belles et originales
de Grèce restent visibles pendant
la période des travaux dans des
salles annexes. Quoi qu’il en soit, nul
besoin de visiter les musées pour
vous plonger dans l’atmosphère des
légendes de l’Antiquité. La Crète a
su merveilleusement conserver son
attrait culturel et artistique tout en
développant son tourisme. Partez
donc cet été sur cette île dont le
climat est particulièrement agréable
avec des températures estivales bien
sûr élevées mais généralement pas
excessives.
Prix à partir de 51,99€* au départ de
Paris du 11 juillet au 2 septembre 2012
Nantes, Venise, Naples, Lille, Toulouse et
Barcelone soit au total 23 destinations
avec des prix toujours aussi attractifs.
Prix à partir de 33,99€*
* Aller simple, taxes incluses.
Prix valides au lancement selon
disponibilités, frais de gestion inclus.
Des frais variables s’appliquent pour
les bagages en soute. Certains moyens
de paiement occasionnent des frais
supplémentaires.
PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK, CORBIS

Celebrate
Spring
Spring is in the air, so why not welcome
its long-awaited arrival by joining a
celebration in one of our fabulous
destinations? From street parades to
Easter-egg hunts and dazzling fi rework
shows to endless streams of sherry,
these great cities each see in the new
season in their own unique style.
PARIS
Famed the world over for its beauty
in the springtime and, of course, its
delicious chocolate, Paris is a great
location for families looking for an
Easter break. On Easter Sunday and
Monday, (8–9 April), the Château Vaux
Le Vicomte, less than an hour’s drive
south of the city, hosts giant Easteregg
hunts in its beautiful gardens,
with face painting and free workshops
in chocolate making and origami
also taking place. Also worth a visit is
Fauchon, Paris’s premier chocolate
boutique, full of spectacular and
delicious Easter treats, including eggs,
chickens and bells, all sure to impress
those at home. If, that is, you can resist
eating them yourself! We fl y to Paris
from Bristol, Liverpool, London Luton,
Newcastle, Edinburgh, Glasgow and
Belfast from £35.49 one way*.
FLORENCE (fl y to Pisa)
As the most important feast in the
Catholic calendar, Easter Sunday is
greatly honoured all across Italy. But
while Rome swells with thousands of
pilgrims all keen to hear the Pope’s
Easter address, an important ceremony
is also taking place in the beautiful
Tuscan city of Florence. Every Easter
morning, crowds gather outside
the Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore
Cathedral for the annual Scoppio
del Carro, translating in English to
the Explosion of the Cart, an age-old
Florentine tradition going back to the
Crusades. A wooden cart is laden with
fi reworks and pulled from the Porta al
Prato to Piazza Del Duomo by a team
of beautifully decorated white oxen.
Then, at 11am (and with the oxes safely
removed) a mechanical dove becomes
part of the Cathedral’s mass as it leaves
the cart, travels by wire to the altar and
is lit by the Archbishop. The dove then
returns to the cart and a 20-minute
fi rework display begins as bells ring out
across the city in thanks for the return
of spring and in hopes of an ample
autumn harvest. The Scoppio del Carro
procession starts at 10am on Easter
Sunday, 8 April. We fl y to Pisa from
Bristol, London Gatwick and Luton from
£44.49 one way*.
REYKJAVIK
After very little daylight during the long
Icelandic winter, it’s no surprise that the
fi rst day of summer is a national holiday
on this fascinating and bewitching
island. Throughout Reykjavik and
beyond, parades, open-air festivals and
good old-fashioned dancing in the
streets mark the arrival of this
much-anticipated season, in a fun
and family-friendly fashion. It’s well
worth sticking around after the party
has fi nished too – although you’ll
probably be a little too late to witness the
celebrated Aurora Borealis (Northern
Lights), you will be able to enjoy some
of Iceland’s many other highlights,
including a trip around the Golden
NEWS | UK
Circle, a dip in the thermal waters of the
Blue Lagoon or even fi t in the famous
Reykjavik rúntur (pub crawl). The fi rst
day of summer 2012 is celebrated on
19 April. We fl y to Reykjavik from London
Luton from £65.49 one way*.
SEVILLE
For a spring fi esta like no other, head to
the Feria de Abril (as pictured above), in
the stunning Spanish city of Seville. This
spectacular fi ve-day party begins when
the town’s mayor turns on 22,000 lights
and ends with an awesome fi rework
show. Locals give it their all by dressing
in fl amboyant costumes – the men
sporting majestic short jackets and
high-waisted trousers and the ladies
adorned in beautiful fl amenco dresses
in a range of bright colours. Spain’s
most famous dance forms a big part
of the celebrations, with plenty of
fl amenco shows and competitions
taking place, along with lessons for
those wanting to give it a whirl on the
dance fl oor. Also popular are the sherry
tents that keep the much-loved local
tipple fl owing right the way through this
fabulous fi esta, which runs from 24-29
April. Olé!
We fl y to Seville from London Gatwick
from £45.49 one way*.
*Prices one way per person based on 2 people travelling on the same booking. Price correct as at 25 January 2012. For travel from 1 April to 27 October 2012. Additional credit card & baggage fees apply. See easyJet.com for details.
TRAVELLER | 191

DON’T CHANGE
THE WAY YOU
DO BUSINESS,
CHANGE YOUR
BUSINESS FLIGHTS
As one of the largest
airlines in Europe,
easyJet offers
inexpensive business
travel on more of the
top 100 European routes
than any other airline.
What’s more, our
high-frequency fl ights
and network of 500
routes across 29
countries mean you
now have more choice
and fl exibility. So
next time, book at
easyJet.com or
via your business
travel agency for
business fl ights at
economy prices.
Why does flying with us
make business sense?
NEWS | BUSINESS TRAVEL
No weight limit on hand baggage – we won’t charge
you for hand baggage, no matter how much it weighs
We fl y you to main airports – save time and expense
by fl ying direct to the major airport close to the heart
of your destination
Get an earlier fl ight home on the same day for free – we
know you’ve got a busy schedule, so if you get to the
airport early for your return fl ight and there’s space available,
we’ll get you on an earlier fl ight home at no additional cost
Speedy Boarding – for a small fee you can beat the
queues and be among the fi rst to board
NEW FLEXI Fare – unlimited free date changes
within a four-week period, plus additional benefi ts
like free Speedy Boarding. Now available to book directly on
easyJet.com or via business travel agents
Find out more good reasons to fl y with
us on business at easyJet.com/business
TRAVELLER | 193

LAST WORD | LISBON
194 | TRAVELLER
Film director
Miguel Gonçalves
Mendes on Lisbon
“If you look at any atlas, you will see
that Lisbon is not at the far end of
Europe – it is the centre of the world.
The city’s greatest charm is that it’s
a mix of an imperial capital and a
village. I love the light, the poetry and
the humanity. There are many
beautiful viewpoints here, but my
favourite thing to do is to take a ferry
to the other side of the Tejo (Tagus)
River and watch the sunset.”
Mendes’s moving documentary José and Pilar was
Portugal’s submission for the 2012 Best Foreign
Language Film Oscar. jumpcut.pt
PHOTO © PEDRO ZENKL/ZERO

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