december-2009

DECK 

THE 

HALLS 

FESTIVE 

TRINKETS 

FROM 

ACROSS 

EUROPE 

DECEMBER 2009 

*YOUR FREE COPY TO 

TAKE AWAY WITH YOU 

TRAVELLER 

THE BIG 

CHILL 

BERLIN’S ICE 

SWIMMERS 

LANZAROTE 

ROCKS! 

CACTI AND 

FIERY FROCKS

Book early for the best deals on 

your winter holiday rental 

Europcar guarantees easyJet passengers 

great car rental deals. Visit the Europcar desk 

or book @ easyJet.com

PHOTO © PHILIP VOLKERS | COVER ILLUSTRATION © NICK CHAFFE, NEIL SMITH 


CONTENTS 

FEATURES 

45 Weekenders 

Decadent shopping 

in Paris or discount 

shopping in Pisa 

52 Winter 

Odyssey 

Snow-laden 

icecapades on a 

boys’ trip from 

Stockholm to Milan 

by way of Geneva 

and London 

58 Lanzarote 

Fashion 

Elemental style in 

the Canary Islands 

66 Istanbul 

Nightlife 

Oriental hip-hop, 

gypsy funk, and 

Anatolian blues 

in Turkey’s capital 

of culture 

72 Divine Dining 

Get into the spirit 

of Christmas at 

some of Europe’s 

most sacred 

restaurants 

TRAVELLER 

76 Berlin Ice 

Swimming 

The German 

capital’s coolest 

festive affair 

82 Snowkiting 

in St Moritz 

Skiers get some 

wind in their sails 

off piste in the 

French Alps 

96 Big Debate 

Does the Swiss 

banking industry 

need cleaning up? 

98 Property 

Hidden real estate 

gems on Germany’s 

Baltic coast 

105 Business 

From vintage design 

to cutting-edge 

business online in 

Zürich-West 

LOCATION 

Gran Meliá Salinas 

Resort, Lanzarote 

Silk tie-back dress 

(£149) from Goldhawk; 

cowrie shell necklace 

(£165) from Pebble 

DECEMBER 09 | TRAVELLER | 3

PHOTO © PEROU 


CONTENTS 

THE BUZZ 

10 Word of Mouth 

News from across the 

network, including Cristiano 

Ronaldo’s cursed ankle and 

Hogmanay under threat 

in Aberdeen 

13 Calendar 

Catch photography’s best in 

Ljubljana and follow the trail 

of the new boho Sherlock 

Holmes in London 

20 Insider’s Guide 

Soprano Sylvia Schwartz’s 

favourite places in Berlin 

23 Travel News 

Zaha Hadid’s curvaceous 

Centre for Contemporary 

Arts in Rome, plus Europe’s 

new hotels, cafés and bars 

27 Coming Up 

Turin unveils its famous 

shroud in April 

29 Tastebuds 

Christmas pudding and 

gingerbread houses 

4 | TRAVELLER | DECEMBER 09 

34 Out of Town 

Bruges Ice Festival 

Catch Marawa’s 

cabaret antics 

in La Clique at 

the Roundhouse 

37 Made for Christmas 

Yuletide goodies from across 

the network 

38 Three of the Best 

Christmas traditions 

40 Kids’ Trip 

Budding reporters take 

to the fl ying trapeze at 

London’s Circus Space 

43 New Route 

Touching down in Düsseldorf 

111 Destination Guides 

Updated every month! 

180 Passenger 

Information 

182 Noticias 

183 Notizie 

184 Neuigkeiten 

185 Dernières Infos 

186 Latest News 

187 Special Bulletin 

188 Gulliver Bear 

190 Where We Fly 

192 Route Map 

THE BIG 

SALE 

Unwrap a 

bargain in this 

month’s issue 

of Bistro & 

Boutique, with 

our BIG Sale 

starting on the 

17th December. 

Save up to 60% 

on fragrances, 

cosmetics, 

watches, 

sunglasses and 

loads more! 

Get Carolina 

Herrera ladies 

sunglasses for 

only £40 / €51, 

previously £89 

/ €113, saving 

a massive £49 

/ €62. But 

remember, 

when it’s gone 

it’s gone so buy 

on board today. 

Also in our 

sale, we have 

got discounts 

on London 

attractions. 

Visit the London 

Dungeon or Sea 

Life London 

Aquarium 

between the 

17th December 

and the 31st 

January 2010 

and the adult 

will pay the 

child’s price. 

EDITORIAL & ART 

Editor Jeroen Bergmans 

Art Director Neil Smith 

Sub-Editor Marie Cleland 

Deputy Editor Claire Martin 

Destinations Editor Amy Dennis 

Picture Editor Lisa Jacobs 

Production Manager Antonia Ferraro 

Online Director Sal Lababidi 

easyJet Brand Livery Executive 

(General contact for magazine) Natalie Yeung 

Flight Bookings easyJet.com 

ADVERTISING 

Group Publishing Director Phil Castle 

Associate Publisher Tara Brady 

European Sales Team Marcus Clark, 

Javier Cortes, Nishan Gumani, 

Lucian Howells Alexander Koidis, 

Darren Paternoster, Roman Zincenko 

Creative Solutions Director Michael Cairns 

Paris Offi ce (Advertising) IMM 

Tel: +33 (0)140 130 030 

Italian Offi ce (Advertising) IMM 

Lucia Colucci, tel: +39 02 3653 4433 

INK 

CEO Jeffrey O’Rourke 

Executive Creative Director Michael Keating 

Deputy Editorial Director Andrew Humphreys 

Design Director Jonny Clark 

Chief Operating Offi cer Hugh Godsal 

Publishing Director Simon Leslie 

easyJet TRAVELLER is published on 

behalf of easyJet by Ink Publishing 

141–143 Shoreditch High Street 

London, E1 6JE 

Advertising Tel: +44 (0)20 7613 8795, 

+44 (0)20 7613 8776 

Editorial Tel: +44 (0)20 7613 6947 

Info@ink-publishing.com 

ink-publishing.com 

goferslogistics.com 

© Ink All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. 

No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part 

without the prior written permission of the copyright holder. All 

prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions 

expressed in easyJet Traveller are not necessarily those of easyJet, 

and easyJet does not accept responsibility for advertising content. 

Any pictures or transparencies supplied are at the owner’s risk. 

Any mention of easyJet or use of the easyJet logo by any advertiser 

in this publication does not imply endorsement of that company, 

or its products or services by easyJet Airline Company. 

This magazine is printed 

on 100% recycled paper. 

minus 

52% 

CO2 TRAVELLER

PHOTO © PEROU 


CONTENTS 

THE BUZZ 

10 Word of Mouth 

News from across the 

network, including Cristiano 

Ronaldo’s cursed ankle and 

Hogmanay under threat 

in Aberdeen 

13 Calendar 

Catch photography’s best in 

Ljubljana and follow the trail 

of the new boho Sherlock 

Holmes in London 

20 Insider’s Guide 

Soprano Sylvia Schwartz’s 

favourite places in Berlin 

23 Travel News 

Zaha Hadid’s curvaceous 

Centre for Contemporary 

Arts in Rome, plus Europe’s 

new hotels, cafés and bars 

27 Coming Up 

Turin unveils its famous 

shroud in April 

29 Tastebuds 

Christmas pudding and 

gingerbread houses 


34 Out of Town 

Bruges Ice Festival 

Catch Marawa’s 

cabaret antics 

in La Clique at 


37 Made for Christmas 

Yuletide goodies from across 

the network 

38 Three of the Best 

Christmas traditions 

40 Kids’ Trip 

Budding reporters take 

to the fl ying trapeze at 

London’s Circus Space 

43 New Route 

Touching down in Düsseldorf 

111 Destination Guides 

Updated every month! 

180 Passenger 

Information 

182 Noticias 

183 Notizie 

184 Neuigkeiten 

185 Dernières Infos 

186 Latest News 

187 Special Bulletin 

188 Gulliver Bear 

190 Where We Fly 

192 Route Map 

THE BIG 

SALE 

Unwrap a 

bargain in this 

month’s issue 

of Bistro & 

Boutique, with 

our BIG Sale 

starting on the 

17th December. 


on fragrances, 

cosmetics, 

watches, 

sunglasses and 

loads more! 

Get Carolina 

Herrera ladies 

sunglasses for 

only £40 / €51, 

previously £89 

/ €113, saving 

a massive £49 

/ €62. But 

remember, 

when it’s gone 

it’s gone so buy 

on board today. 

Also in our 

sale, we have 

got discounts 

on London 

attractions. 

Visit the London 

Dungeon or Sea 

Life London 

Aquarium 

between the 

17th December 

and the 31st 

January 2010 

and the adult 

will pay the 

child’s price. 

EDITORIAL & ART 

Editor Jeroen Bergmans 

Art Director Neil Smith 

Sub-Editor Marie Cleland 

Deputy Editor Claire Martin 

Destinations Editor Amy Dennis 

Picture Editor Lisa Jacobs 

Production Manager Antonia Ferraro 

Online Director Sal Lababidi 

easyJet Brand Livery Executive 

(General contact for magazine) Natalie Yeung 

Flight Bookings easyJet.com 

ADVERTISING 

Group Publishing Director Phil Castle 

Associate Publisher Tara Brady 

European Sales Team Marcus Clark, 

Javier Cortes, Nishan Gumani, 

Lucian Howells Alexander Koidis, 

Darren Paternoster, Roman Zincenko 

Creative Solutions Director Michael Cairns 

Paris Offi ce (Advertising) IMM 

Tel: +33 (0)140 130 030 

Italian Offi ce (Advertising) IMM 

Lucia Colucci, tel: +39 02 3653 4433 

INK 

CEO Jeffrey O’Rourke 

Executive Creative Director Michael Keating 

Deputy Editorial Director Andrew Humphreys 

Design Director Jonny Clark 

Chief Operating Offi cer Hugh Godsal 

Publishing Director Simon Leslie 

easyJet TRAVELLER is published on 

behalf of easyJet by Ink Publishing 

141–143 Shoreditch High Street 

London, E1 6JE 

Advertising Tel: +44 (0)20 7613 8795, 

+44 (0)20 7613 8776 

Editorial Tel: +44 (0)20 7613 6947 

Info@ink-publishing.com 

ink-publishing.com 

goferslogistics.com 

© Ink All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. 

No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part 

without the prior written permission of the copyright holder. All 

prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions 

expressed in easyJet Traveller are not necessarily those of easyJet, 

and easyJet does not accept responsibility for advertising content. 

Any pictures or transparencies supplied are at the owner’s risk. 

Any mention of easyJet or use of the easyJet logo by any advertiser 

in this publication does not imply endorsement of that company, 

or its products or services by easyJet Airline Company. 

This magazine is printed 

on 100% recycled paper. 

minus 

52% 

CO2 TRAVELLER

www.germany.travel 

Let the games commence 

Welcome to Germany’s Winter Season 

Welcome to a world of winter sports in Germany. From the Alps and the Allgäu to the numerous 

low-mountain ranges, we have so many glistening pistes and undiscovered slopes where people of 

all ages can have the time of their lives. Germany is one of the major destinations for winter sports 

in Europe – it has something for everyone, whether youre into downhill 

or cross-country skiing, toboggans or snowboards. So what are you 

waiting for? Grab your gear and hit the slopes in Destination Germany. 

© Panthermedia GmbH

THIS MONTH, world leaders are 

gathering in Copenhagen for the 

all-important UN Summit to agree 

on a new global deal to reduce 

greenhouse gas emissions. European 

aviation is already in an agreement 

to curb emissions under the EU’s 

Emission Trading System, but global 

aviation and shipping are currently 

outside any deal, as emissions 

cannot easily be allocated to any 

country. The aim of the Copenhagen 

meeting is therefore to make 

progress towards a global deal to 

ensure that all emissions, including 

aviation’s, are put on a path to 

future sustainability. 

easyJet has long been a supporter 

of the European Emission Trading 

System, which is currently being 

implemented and will commence 

in 2012. This is a signifi cant step 

forward, but it won’t be enough. 

I strongly believe that we have to 

reduce emissions further by setting 

minimum emission standards for 

aircraft and by developing ever 

cleaner technology. 

The next generation of aircraft, 

which are under development, 

should reduce CO2 emissions by up 

to 50%. easyJet already operates 

the cleanest aircraft available today, 

and will continue to call for a more 

widespread use of the greenest 

planes across the industry, but to 

ensure that all airlines fl y state-ofthe-art 

aircraft we need the EU 

to set tough minimum emissions 

standards just as it does for cars 

and light bulbs. Thanks to emission 

trading, Europe is ahead of the pack. 

Let’s make sure it stays that way. 

GREETINGS | ENJOY THE FLIGHT 

Welcome/Bienvenido 

Bonjour/Benvenuto 

Willkommen 

Este mes, Copenhague acogerá a los 

principales líderes mundiales en la 

importante cumbre de las Naciones 

Unidas, donde se llegará a un nuevo acuerdo global 

para reducir las emisiones de gases invernadero y 

asegurar que todas las emisiones, incluidas las de la 

aviación, se encaucen hacia la sostenibilidad. 

EasyJet lleva mucho tiempo apoyando el 

Régimen de Comercio de Derechos de la Unión 

Europea. Nuestra nueva generación de aviones, 

actualmente en fase de desarrollo, debería 

reducir las emisiones de CO2 hasta en un 50%. 

Actualmente ya contamos con el avión más limpio 

entre nuestras fi las, y continuaremos solicitando un 

mayor uso de aviones verdes en toda la industria; 

no obstante, para poder hacerlo necesitamos 

que la U.E. defi na una normativa de emisiones 

mínimas tan estricta como la de los segmentos 

de la automoción y el alumbrado. Con el nuevo 

régimen de comercio, Europa pasa a ser el líder. 

Asegurémonos de que siga así. 

Questo mese i leader mondiali si 

incontreranno a Copenhagen in 

occasione dell’importantissimo Summit 

ONU; l’oggettivo sarà di giungere a un nuovo 

accordo globale per ridurre le emissioni di gas serra 

e garantire che tutte le emissioni, comprese quelle 

prodotte dagli aerei, intraprendano il percorso verso 

la sostenibilità. 

easyJet sostiene da molto tempo lo Schema 

europeo per il commercio delle emissioni. La nostra 

prossima generazione di velivoli, che è attualmente 

in fase di progettazioni, dovrebbe ridurre le 

emissioni di CO2 fi no al 50%. Stiamo già utilizzando 

l’aereo più pulito attualmente disponibile, e 

continueremo ad auspicare un uso più diffuso dei 

velivoli più ecologici nel settore delle compagnie 

aeree, ma per sostenere tutto ciò abbiamo bisogno 

che l’UE defi nisca severe normative per emissioni 

minime, proprio come già fa con le automobili e le 

lampadine. Grazie al commercio delle immissioni, 

l’Europa sta facendo strada. Assicuriamoci che ne 

faccia molta ancora. 

In diesem Monat kommen die 

Staatsmänner der Welt zu einem 

bedeutsamen UN –Gipfel in Kopenhagen 

zusammen, um eine neue globale Vereinbarung 

zur Reduzierung von Treibhausgasen zu treffen, die 

auch sicherstellen soll, dass sämtliche Emissionen, 

einschließlich die der Luftfahrt, auf den Weg der 

Nachhaltigkeit gebracht werden. 

easyJet unterstützt schon lange das 

europäische Emissionshandelsprogramm. Die 

nächste Generation unserer Flugzeuge, die sich 

derzeit in der Entwicklung befi ndet, sollte den 

CO2-Ausstoss um 50% reduzieren. Wir betreiben 

schon jetzt die saubersten Maschinen, die heute zur 

Verfügung stehen, und wir werden uns weiterhin für 

einen breiteren Einsatz der umweltfreundlichsten 

Flugzeuge in der gesamten Branche einsetzen. 

Um dies zu unterstützen muss die EU jedoch harte 

Mindeststandards für Emissionen festlegen, so wie 

sie das bereits für Autos und Glühbirnen tut. Dank 

dem Emissionshandel ist Europa 

hier führend in der Welt. Wir wollen sicherstellen, 

dass dies auch so bleibt. 

Ce mois-ci, les dirigeants des grandes 

puissances mondiales se rassemblent 

à Copenhague au sommet de l‘ONU. 

L’objectif est de se mettre d‘accord sur un projet 

international visant à réduire les émissions de 

CO2, et à s’assurer que toutes les émissions, dont 

celles de l’aviation, s’alignent sur un programme de 

développement durable. 

easyJet soutient depuis longtemps le système 

communautaire d’échange de quotas d’émission 

(SCEQE). Notre prochaine génération d’avions, 

actuellement en cours de développement, devrait 

réduire jusqu’à 50 % les émissions de CO2. Nous 

utilisons déjà les avions les plus propres et nous 

continuerons à pousser pour une utilisation encore 

plus généralisée de ces avions sur le marché. Mais 

pour soutenir nos efforts, l’UE doit établir des 

normes strictes concernant les émissions, comme 

elle le fait déjà pour les voitures ou les ampoules, par 

exemple. Grâce au SCEQE, l’Europe montre la voie. 

Assurons-nous qu’il en demeure ainsi. 

Andy Harrison 

easyJet Chief Executive 

i 

If you have any thoughts or suggestions, 

email us at andy@easyJet.com 

For any queries or further 

information, visit easyJet.com 

Turn to pages 180–187 for the latest easyJet 

news and an onboard guide and to fi nd out 

how we’re improving your fl ying experience. 


THE BUZZ | GOSSIP 

WORDOF 

MOUTH 

1 2 3 

Belfast 

No doubt the male residents of the Northern 

Irish capital were delighted to hear the 

outcome of OnePoll’s recent investigation 

into the world’s sexiest accent. More 

than 5,000 women were polled on their 

pronunciation preferences and the Irish lilt 

topped the table, followed by the Italian, 

Scottish then French accents. Undoubtedly 

sexy stars of the screen like Liam Neeson 

(pictured) and Colin Farrell have helped 

spark the Emerald Isle crush! Clare Kielty 


1 

Barcelona 

Not good news for the party season: 

Catalonia has banned happy hour and 

two-for-one drinks promotions throughout 

the region. This new regulation is aimed 

at stopping binge drinking among young 

people – both locals and tourists – and bars 

found fl outing the law could be fi ned up to 

€10,000. Surprisingly, the law was passed 

without opposition, though it’s anybody’s 

guess how holidaymakers will react when 

the restriction is enforced. Andi McNeilson 

2 

3 

Toulouse 

If you fi nd yourself walking down Toulouse’s 

Allée Camille-Soula come nightfall, you 

might be surprised to discover that from a 

distance, the street looks particularly dark. 

Toulouse is the fi rst city in the world to use 

cutting-edge technology that detects body 

heat, meaning the street lamps will only 

light up when pedestrians approach them, 

and will switch off when they have passed 

by. City offi cials believe it will cut energy 

consumption by half. Rianna Waterson

PHOTOS © GETTY, CORBIS, REX 

Aberdeen 

No-one celebrates New Year’s Eve quite like 

the Scots, so it’s no surprise that locals in 

Aberdeen are furious at plans by the city’s 

council to cut funding for their Hogmanay 

street party from £250,000 (€280,000) 

to £150,000. Further disappointment was 

caused by the news that the popular concert 

– in previous years acts have included The 

Proclaimers and Travis – has been axed 

and a large Ferris wheel is set to be installed 

in its place. Matty White 

4 5 

4 5 6 

6 

Madrid 

Questions have been mounting as to why 

Real Madrid’s hotshot player Cristiano 

Ronaldo’s ankle injury has prevented him 

from playing for so long. According to the 

El Mundo daily newspaper, the reason 

could be that he was cursed. Apparently a 

wizard by the name of Pepé el Brujo, who is 

based in Málaga, has alleged that one of the 

footballer’s former lovers asked him to put 

a spell on the Portuguese player. 

Emilio Rodrigues 

OUR EUROPEAN 

CORRESPONDENTS 

GIVE US THE 

LOWDOWN ON 

WHAT’S HAPPENING 

IN AND AROUND 

THEIR CITIES 

THE BUZZ | GOSSIP 

Stockholm 

Swedish ice hockey team Leksand were in 

hot water last month after it emerged the 

team’s players were given a vaccination 

against swine fl u before it was made 

available to seriously ill patients and 

pregnant women. Allegedly, the squad’s 

doctor ordered the vaccinations claiming 

they were to be used on a specifi c at-risk 

group at his practice, but instead gave the 

drug to Leksand and the team’s coaches. 

Louisa Walker 


Big brands 

delivered 

directly to 

you for 

just €5 

Jeans 

€18 

Cardigan 

€36 

/ejm 

Big brands delivered to homes abroad

PHOTO © GETTY IMAGES | CALENDAR EDITED BY OWAIN THOMAS 

THE BUZZ 

BOOK AHEAD: 19–21 JULY, 2010 

World Santa Claus Congress 

COPENHAGEN 

The Danish capital 

marks the festive 

season this month 

with a Christmas 

market and lashings 

of aebleskiver, 

(pancakes dusted 

with icing sugar). 

But in Copenhagen, 

Christmas comes 

twice a year, once in 

December, and again 

in July when the World 

Santa Claus Congress 

rolls into town. It’s 

at this mid-summer 

Christmas that the 

fi ner details of next 

year’s festivities will 

be hammered out by 

men in red suits with 

bushy white beards. 

The centuries-old 

Bakken amusement 

park hosts the threeday 

event, which 

attracts over 200 

professional Santas, 

elves and elf mothers 

from as far afi eld as 

Japan and Venezuela. 

The congress is 

part talking shop, 

part team-bonding 

exercise and is 

generally a goodhumoured 

affair with 

time for games and 

idea swapping. But 

like any convention, 

it has a strict agenda. 

Last summer’s event 

included a heated 

debate on how false 

beards were spoiling 

Santa’s good name. 

To the casual 

visitor, it’s a chance 

to dance around the 

Christmas tree in 

CALENDAR 

TRAVEL NEWS 

TASTEBUDS 

OUT OF TOWN 

MADE FOR... 

blazing sunshine, but 

why exactly does this 

off-season celebration 

exist? The founders 

of the congress felt 

Christmas was too 

good to celebrate 

just once a year. And 

what better month 

to choose than July? 

– the Danish word for 

Christmas is Jul. 

worldsantaclaus 

congress.com 

David Atkinson 


THE BUZZ | CALENDAR 

4–27 DEC 

World Press Photo 

LJUBLJANA 

Encouraging high 

standards in photo 

journalism since 

1955, World Press 

Photo continues 

to promote the 

exchange of 

information across 

the globe with its 

annual exhibition. 

This month 

the touring show 

touches down in 

Ljubljana, Slovenia, 

at the capital’s 

SIGHTS 


premier modern 

arts hub Cankarjev 

Dom. Featuring 

winning images 

from around 

the world, the 

exhibition opened 

in Amsterdam 

in May and will 

run until early 

next year, visiting 

venues around the 

globe and providing 

a showcase for 

creative photo 

journalism and 

a platform for 

development 

and funding for 

the profession. 

Because of the 

wide-ranging focus 

of the contest, 

the collection of 

pictures forms an 

eyewitness record 

of the past year’s 

world events and 

offers an intimate 

and emotive 

portrait of our 

recent history. 

worldpress 

photo.org 

UNTIL 17 JAN 2010 

La Clique 

LONDON 

After sellout 

seasons in Sydney 

and New York, La 

Clique’s heady 

cocktail of cabaret, 

burlesque and 

sideshow freakery 

arrives to wow the 

crowds at Camden 

Town’s legendary 

5–8 DEC 

Fête de 

Lumières 

LYON 

Celebrated across 

the French city 

since 1852, this 

spectacular festival 

of light returns 

with an even larger 

programme of 

events. As well as 

the extension of the 

popular installation 

along the banks of 

the River Rhône all 

the way to the Tête 

d’Or Park, the main 

façade of the iconic 

Fourvière Basilica 

will be the backdrop 

for a 15-minute 

light show. Rooted 

in an impromptu 

candlelit display to 

honour the Feast 

Roundhouse. With 

a juggling Freddie 

Mercury-alike 

(Mario), a swordswallowing 

diva 

(Miss Behave) and 

a backbreaking 

contortionist 

(Captain Frodo), 

you’ll laugh and 

wince in equal 

of the Immaculate 

Conception, the 

tradition has evolved 

with the times and 

now involves some 

of the most hightech 

light displays 

in the world. All that 

said, candles still 

play a huge part in 

celebrations, with so 

many dotted along 

people’s balconies 

that in excess of 

eight million candles 

are sold leading 

up to the event. 

Perhaps this is one 

reason why last 

year’s electricity bill 

didn’t go any higher 

than €3000. 

lumieres.lyon.fr 

measure. Though 


has hosted eclectic 

programmes over 

the years, this army 

of dancing, bending 

and smouldering 

shock-and-awe 

specialists certainly 

takes some beating. 

lacliquelondon.com 

PHOTOS © JEROME BONNET, PEROU

8 DEC 

Editors 

BARCELONA 

After three previous 

incarnations as 

Pilot, The Pride 

and Snowfi eld, it’s 

no surprise these 

British indie rockers 

settled on their 

current name. Eager 

to keep up with 

Europe’s hottest 

touring bands, the 

group take their 

atmospheric, guitar- 

SOUNDS 

driven anthems 

to Barcelona’s 

hedonism 

headquarters, 

Razzmatazz, this 

month. With a 

sound reminiscent 

of Manchester’s 

post-punk pioneers 

Joy Division and 

featuring knowing 

nods to New York 

contemporaries 

Interpol, Editors 

20 DEC 

Pet Shop Boys 

MANCHESTER 

The electronica 

veterans may have 

soundtracked most 

of the 80s, but 

they haven’t had 

too much trouble 

keeping up with the 

times either. After a 

have nevertheless 

created a distinct 

sound that has 

gained them both 

mainstream success 

and an avid following 

on the festival 

circuit. This gig falls 

in the middle of their 

continental tour, 

between dates in 

Prague, Cologne, 

Rome and Vienna. 

editorsoffi cial.com 

critically acclaimed 

resurgence at 

the turn of the 

millennium, the duo 

powered through 

the early noughties 

with a string of 

boundary-pushing 

albums, remixes for 

the likes of Madonna 

and epic live shows 

culminating in the 

release of their 10th 

studio album, Yes, 

this year. Playing 

tracks from this and 

a memorable back 

catalogue, which 

includes hits West 

End Girls and It’s 

a Sin, Neil Tennant 

and Chris Lowe will 

thrill devotees at the 

Manchester Evening 

News Arena with 

their trademark 

static delivery and 

eye-popping light 

and graphics show. 

petshopboys.co.uk 


UNTIL 17 DEC 

Christmas 

Jazz Festival 

TALLINN 

Featuring more 

than 30 concerts 

by international 

musicians, this 

yuletide instalment 

of Estonia’s premier 

jazz festival is the 

perfect antidote to 

winter. Along with 

a heartwarming 

charity concert from 

the Estonian Radio 

Children’s Choir, 

innovative New York 

drummer Ari Hoenig 

(pictured) and 

his trio Punk Bop 

and the new vocal 

queen of bossa nova 

Giana Viscardi bring 

contemporary heat 

to proceedings. 

Violin virtuoso 

Jean-Luc Ponty is 

also on hand with a 

jazz-rock band that 

has to be heard to 

be believed, while 

other highlights 

include Christian 

Prommer and his 

Trüby Trio livening 

up the dancefl oor 

and the Estonian 

Police Orchestra 

Bigband celebrating 

the 100th birthday 

of Benny Goodman. 

jazzkaar.ee 



17–20 DEC 

Masters France 

TOULOUSE 

Hotly tipped 

number-two seed 

Gaël Monfi ls and 

last year’s runnerup 

Michaël Llodra 

take on the rest 

of France’s tennis 

talent this month 

at Toulouse’s Palais 

des Sports. Only the 

second edition of 

this indoor singlesonly 

tournament in 

La Ville Rouge (as 

Toulouse is known, 

owing to the pink 

hue of its historic 

buildings), the event 

is the brainchild of 

three Davis Cup 

veterans, Jean- 

François Caujolle, 

Gilles Moretton and 

Jean-Louis Haillet, 

SPORTS 

who wanted a fi xture 

to rival the national 

competitions that 

took place in Paris, 

Marseille and Lyon. 

Since the Grand 

Prix de Tennis de 

Toulouse left a gap 

when it ended in 

2000, organisers 

hope the Masters 

France will repeat 

the success of 

its maiden event 

and become a 

permanent highlight 

of Toulouse’s 

sporting calendar. 

And given the 

current wealth of 

exciting French 

players, that 

shouldn’t be 

a tough task. 

mastersfrance.com 


18–19 DEC 

Andros Trophy 

GRENOBLE 

The fast, the furious 

and the slightly 

unhinged return 

to take part in the 

20th edition of 

the prestigious 

ice racing cup this 

month. Bubbling 

with après-ski 

glamour and 

brimming with 

big-name talent 

– legendary 

Formula One driver 

Alain Prost is a 

past winner – this 

multi-discipline 

(cars, bikes and 

buggies) race has 

been running since 

1990 and consists 

of seven heats 

across the mountain 

resorts of the French 

Alps and Andorra. 

This heat, taking 

place at the Alpe 

d’Huez resort near 

Grenoble, is the third 

in the series and 

features one of the 

31 DEC 

New Year’s Eve Run 

BERLIN 

Join over 2,500 

plucky souls as 

they brave the 

winter chill and run 

across Berlin in 

outrageous fancy 

dress. Starting at 

noon on New Year’s 

Eve, the staggered 

10km, 6km, 4km 

and 2km races all 

most exciting tracks. 

Creating conditions 

that would see 

a normal race 

abandoned, offi cials 

ensure the track 

is sprayed heavily 

with water to ensure 

an even coating 

of ice. It all makes 

for an absorbing 

spectator event 

that’s probably best 

enjoyed from behind 

a huge pine tree. 

tropheeandros.com 

fi nish opposite the 

Mommsenstadion. 

There, the fancy 

dress can be 

removed, retouched 

or remarked upon 

while numbers are 

exchanged, before 

some nocturnal 

meandering around 

one of Europe’s 

most happening 

cities. If you’re still 

energised, head over 

to the Brandenburg 

Gate before the 

arrival of 2010 for 

impressive fi reworks 

and festivities that 

stretch all the way 

along Party Mile 

to the iconic 

Victory Column. 

scc-events.com 

PHOTOS © REX

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Sherpa, your mountain supermarket, also provides 

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*


BEHIND 

THE 

SCENES 

SCREENSHOTS 

Sherlock Holmes 

Filmed on location in 

London, Manchester 

and Liverpool, this 

new version of 

Sherlock Holmes 

is a modern 

interpretation that 

goes beyond the 

dour deerstalkerwearing 

detective 

of yesteryear. 

Guy Ritchie takes 

the helm for the 

latest incarnation 

and for once the 


ex-Mr Madonna 

hasn’t cast an 

array of Cockney 

wideboys in lead 

roles. In a defi ning 

move, the Snatch, 

Lock Stock and 

RocknRolla director 

cast US actor 

Robert Downey Jr 

as the British super 

sleuth. Out goes 

the straight-faced 

ageing intellectual, 

replaced by a 

bohemian Downey 

depiction that is 

fresh-faced yet edgy. 

An equally inspired 

choice is Jude Law 

playing Dr Watson. 

Instead of the 

bumbling sidekick, 

there’s a focus on 

his background as a 

soldier, womaniser 

and gambler. 

The adventure 

takes place in 

Victorian England 

circa 1891 and 

centres on Holmes’ 

and Watson’s pursuit 

of an occultist. 

London was used 

extensively as a 

backdrop, with key 

locations including 

the Freemason’s 

Hall and St Paul’s 

Cathedral, one of the 

most visited tourist 

spots in the capital. 

The north of England 

also features, with 

ONE TO WATCH 

The Limits of Control 

This beautifully 

shot arthouse 

thriller from Jim 

Jarmusch (Broken 

Flowers, Ghost 

Dog) promises to 

leave audiences 

with as many 

questions as 

answers in this tale 

of an enigmatic 

loner on a criminal 

assignment. 

The Englishlanguage 

fi lm 

is set amid the 

contrasting 

landscapes of 

Spain, with key 

scenes shot in 

the captivating 

Andalusian cities of 

Seville and Almería 

and the Spanish 

capital, Madrid. 

Veteran actor 

Isaach De Bankolé 

takes the lead as 

the mysterious 

stranger, in his 

fourth collaboration 

with the director. 

Notable cameos 

Manchester’s 

colourful Northern 

Quarter being 

transformed into 

an urban Victorian 

setting. Liverpool 

also gets in on the 

action with the 

tobacco warehouses 

of Stanley Dock, an 

atmospheric Grade 

II-listed site built 

in 1848, providing 

plenty of authentic 

period scenery. 

from Bill Murray, 

John Hurt and 

Tilda Swinton 

maintain the onscreen 

intensity 

while audiences 

unravel a free-form 

narrative that relies 

more on tone and 

mood than on 

linear plotlines.

WORDS STEVE O’ROURKE | STILL FROM THE FILM EFIMERI POLI 

Film Buff’s 

Guide to Lisbon 

CINEMATECA PORTUGUESA 

(THE FILM MUSEUM) 

Known locally 

as the home 

of Portuguese 

cinema, the longestablished 

Film 

Museum is located 

in the heart of 

Lisbon and based 

within a beautiful 

19th-century 

building adjacent 

NEXT MONTH 

21–28 JANUARY, 2010 

Trieste Film Festival 

LJUBLJANA 

What’s it all about? 

A leisurely 90- 

minute drive from 

the Slovenian capital, 

Ljubljana, sits the 

beautiful Italian 

coastal city of Trieste, 

just over the border. 

The picturesque 

seaport was both 

one-time home and 

inspiration to literary 

giants Jules Verne 

and James Joyce 

and philosopher 

Sigmund Freud. 

Now it plays host 

to the 17th Trieste 

Film Festival, 

an event that 

showcases features, 

to Avenida da 

Liberdade, one of 

the city’s busiest 

boulevards. 

The institute 

boasts two 

auditoriums, an 

impressive archive, 

bookstore, a 

museum and a 

restaurant called 

documentaries and 

shorts from central 

and eastern Europe 

to an audience of 

more than 15,000. 

Where to watch 

the fi lms 

Festival fi lms are 

screened in several 

of the city’s eight 

theatres and 

subtitled in both 

English and Italian. 

The pick of the 

festival cinemas are 

the Excelsior (2 Via 

Muratti) and the 

Ariston Cinema (14 

Viale Romolo Gessi) 

in a more subdued 

part of town that’s a 

39 Steps dedicated 

to the Hitchcock 

classic. Outdoor 

screenings are held 

during the summer 

and there’s also 

a raft of debates, 

presentations 

and specialist 

screenings. 

cinemateca.pt 

popular destination 

for locals. 

Where to spot 

the stars 

Trieste doesn’t do 

nightlife in the same 

way as Rome or 

Milan. But it has a 

casual charm that 

means famous 

faces can mingle in 

intimate cafés and 

bars without hassle. 

Boston Blvd (41 Viale 

XX Settembre) is 

a popular spot for 

actors on the festival 

circuit as it’s located 

near all the city’s 

main cinemas. 

triestefi lmfestival.it 

More than a watch 

Tissot, Innovators by Tradition. 

www.tissot.ch

THE BUZZ | BERLIN 

INSIDER’S 

GUIDE 

“THIS CITY FEELS 

so free. You can do 

what you want, wear 

what you want and 

think what you want. 

When I came here it 

was the fi rst time I 

had lived away from 

my parents, and 

that has probably 

augmented the 

sense of freedom,” 

says soprano Sylvia 

Schwartz. After 

graduating from the 

Escuela Superior 

de Canto in Madrid, 

Spain, UK-born 

Sylvia came to Berlin 

for postgrad work. It 

wasn’t long before 

she was swept up by 

the city’s renowned 

Staatsoper (Royal 

Opera House), 


BERLIN-BASED SOPRANO 

Sylvia Schwartz 

tells us the best places to go and 

things to do in the German capital 

where she’s now a 

leading lady. This 

month she plays 

Princess Pamina 

in Mozart’s Die 

Zauberfl öte (The 

Magic Flute) on 

the 21st and 26th. 

When I’m hungry 

I love Italian food 

and the best place 

for it is Al Contadino 

Sotto le Stelle (34 

Auguststrasse, 

tel: +49 (0)3 0281 

9023). I also eat 

at Sulzberger (1 

Hannoversche 

Strasse, tel: +49 

(0)30 3644 7588). 

The guy who owns 

it is really sweet 

and the raspberry 

crumble is to die for! 

When I’m thirsty 

Under the railway 

tracks is a place 

called Bar 1000 (11 

Schiffbauerdamm). 

An anonymous 

steel door leads to a 

chic bar where the 

clientèle are decked 

out in Prada. 

When I want 

to shop 

I buy so much music 

from Dussmann (90 

Friedrichstrasse). 

If they don’t have 

something, they 

order it in. 

When I need 

pampering 

The spa inside 

Holmes Place (67– 

70 Friedrichstrasse, 

holmesplace. 

de) uses Aveda 

products. The 

amazing hydrating 

facial gets rid of 

every last bit of 

make-up and makes 

your skin glow. 

When I want 

to catch up 

with friends 

I like Nola’s am 

Weinberg (9 

Veteranenstrasse, 

tel: +49 (0)30 4404 

0766) because it’s 

bright and sunny, 

even in winter. Sit 

by the big windows, 

pick up some food 

from the delicious 

brunch buffet 

and order a 

hot chocolate. 

When I want 

to see an opera 

Staatsoper (7 

Unter den Linden, 

staatsoper-berlin. 

org) is world 

class, but so is 

the Deutsche Oper 

(35 Bismarckstrasse, 

deutscheoperberlin. 

de), which gets 

some of the best 

performers. 

When I want some 

holiday spirit 

I go to the Christmas 

market next to the 

Staatsoper. It has 

the most beautiful 

decorations. I drink 

the glühwein and 

eat sausage – the 

whole schebang! 

Victoria Larsson

TRAVEL 

NEWS 

MAXXI Museum 

ROME 

After a decade of 

stops and starts, 

Zaha Hadid’s 

sinuous Centre for 

Contemporary Arts 

in Rome is fi nally 

set for inauguration 

in spring next year. 

Hadid won the 

competition for the 

building in 1999 

and construction 

started in 2003, 

but its opening 

has repeatedly 

been delayed due 

to government 

funding shortfalls. 

The MAXXI’s 

29,000m 2 site in 

northern Rome 

incorporates various 

existing but disused 

19th-century 

barrack buildings 

and contains two 

museums (MAXXI 

Art and MAXXI 

Architecture), 

an auditorium, 

library, bookshop, 

café, temporary 

exhibition spaces 

and various open 

spaces for live 

events, shops and 

recreation. Hadid’s 

project is conceived 

as a central threestorey 

atrium and a 

series of 15m-wide 

curving windowless 

concrete galleries 

with glazed roofs 

that intertwine at 

various points. The 

result is sure to be 

striking and unique. 

maxxi.beniculturali.it 

Giovanna Dunmall 

THE BUZZ | HOT SPOTS 


THE BUZZ | HOT SPOTS 

La Mamounia 

MARRAKECH 

Following a threeyear 

facelift courtesy 

of internationally 

renowned interior 

designer Jacques 

Garcia, Morocco’s 

most iconic 

hotel has fi nally 

re-opened. The 

refurbished rooms 

and suites may 

have rates that are 

beyond your budget 

(they start at an eyewatering 

€545), but 

you can get a taste 

of the jet-set lifestyle 

TRAVEL 

NEWS 

of La Mamounia’s 

glitzy clientèle by 

treating yourself to 

a meal at one of its 

three restaurants 

overseen by Michelin 

-star chefs. L’Italien 

by Alfonso Iaccarino 

(pictured), an 

intimate and moody 

space decorated 

in shades of plum, 

offers contemporary 

Italian dishes made 

from produce 

grown in the hotel’s 

legendary gardens. 

Le Francais by 

Jean-Pierre Vigato 

Forestry Commission 

Visitor Centre 

BRISTOL 

The newly opened visitor centre at 

Garwnant in South Wales is a gateway to 

the great outdoors just an hour-and-a-half’s 

drive from Bristol. Thanks to a generous 

donation from Mountway Limited, it has 

been kitted out with state-of-the-art 

changing room facilities designed specially 

for handicapped children. forestry.gov.uk 

Jeroen Bergmans 


has brasseriestyle 

lunches and 

gourmet dinners 

and Le Marocain 

is set in an ornate 

pavilion and serves 

local dishes with a 

modern twist. 

mamounia.com 


Snow Village 

INNSBRUCK 

Fancy spending a night in an igloo, 

Eskimo-style? The Hochoetz ski 

resort’s fi rst “snow village” has 14 

igloos sleeping two or four people. 

A Candlelight Night booking includes 

Champagne on arrival, dinner, a 

high-tech sleeping bag that will keep 

you toasty, even in temperatures of 

–40°C, and breakfast for €299 for two 

– you can also rent one just for dinner. 

oetztal.com Claire Martin 

The Book 

Club 

LONDON 

This funky new 

bar-restaurant-café 

in trendy Shoreditch 

has been attracting 

cultured hipsters 

from dawn till dusk 

for breakfast, lunch, 

drinks, dinner and 

dancing since it 

opened in October. 

Pared-down 

interiors (think 

bare brick walls and 

mismatched chairs) 

ensure the fun 

fl ows from room to 

room. Relax upstairs 

in a high-backed 

lounger, listening 

to the piano while 

watching ping-pong 

games through a 

neatly cut hole in 

the wall. Or head 

downstairs where 

there’s a pool table 

and a library room 

for literary readings, 

fi lm screenings and 

private parties. 

The cocktail menu 

relies on seasonal, 

British fruit and the 

food, from eggs 

Benedict to bar 

snacks, is delicious. 

wearetbc.com 

Amy Dennis

Opera Garden 

Hotel and 

Apartments 

BUDAPEST 

Around the 

corner from the 

magnifi cent Opera 

House and fl ash, 

Parisian-style 

shopping boulevard 

Andrássy Street, 

this new boutique 

hotel has a grand, 

turn-of-the-century 

façade that 

belies its sleek, 

modern interiors. 

Accommodation 

ranges from 

high-design 

rooms to longstay 

apartments 

furnished with 

full kitchens (with 

proper hobs, not 

just microwaves) a 

pillow menu, soundproofed 

windows 

and complimentary 

wifi and shoe-shine. 

The spa, sauna 

and rooftop Jacuzzi 

don’t open till next 

year, but guests 

will have plenty of 

local pampering 

palaces to choose 

from where they 

can be pummelled, 

stretched and 

steamed with the 

locals. From €99 

per night, book at 

hotels.easyJet.com 


Bar Tomate 

MADRID 

Located in the heart of the upscale 

Chamberí district, just an olive-stone’s 

throw from Plaza de Colón, this 

Mediterranean kitchen bar serves an 

“anytime” menu. Bhutan potatoes, 

sautéed artichokes or asparagus in 

rosemary sauce whet the appetite. Many 

of the main courses mix sweet and 

sour, including the honey-baked lamb 

carpaccio and truffl e cannelloni with 

beetroot and raspberry cream sauce. 

Split into two distinct zones, Tomate 

can be light and spacious, Scandinavian 

style or dark and moody by night in the 

polished concrete bar area. The dining 

space has a market warehouse feel 

with steel chairs, leather-topped tables 

and 1950s-era lamps inspired by the 

minimalist French designer Jean Prouvé. 

grupotragaluz.com Rupert Eden

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PHOTO © ENRICO CANO 

TURIN 

From 10 April to 

23 May next year, 

the four-by-one 

metre linen cloth 

said to be the burial 

shroud of Jesus 

will be taken in 

its hermetically 

sealed, spaceage 

casket and 

put on display in 

Turin Cathedral 

(sindone.org) for 

the fi rst time in 

a decade. Over a 

million visitors are 

expected to fl ock 

to the city to get 

a glimpse of this 

world-famous relic, 

and many will also 

wend their way to 

Swiss architect 

Mario Botta’s new 

church (pictured) 

called Santo Volto 

(Saintly Face), 

which is a modern 

testament to the 

city’s priceless, 

holy treasure. 

Built on the site 

of an old factory, 

the church is 

an ensemble of 

seven towers with 

obliquely sliced 

COMING 

UP 

The Shroud of Turin 

roofs surrounded 

by short towers 

with inclining 

heads similar to 

sunfl owers. Next 

to the towers rises 

a column wrapped 

in a spiral of steel 

ribbon to represent 

the crown of 

thorns. The interior 

is fl ooded with 

natural light and 

behind the altar is 

the iconic outline 

of Christ’s face, 

a representation 

of the church’s 

namesake. 

Explaining the 

philosophy behind 

his work, Botta 

has said: “Building 

anything is a sacred 

act, it is an action 

that transforms 

nature into culture. 

Out of an empty 

plot of land 

grows a church, 

a spiritual place 

of congregation, 

a museum, or 

an art gallery, 

which begins a 

new life and makes 

new history.” 

Martin Gani 

THE BUZZ | TURIN 


PHOTO © PETRINA TINSLAY 

TASTE 

BUDS 

NATIONAL DISH 

Christmas Pudding 

THE QUEEN OF 

Christmas cooking 

is back with a brand 

new festive culinary 

bible, almost 20 

years after her 

legendary Christmas 

cookbook was fi rst 

published. Bursting 

with old favourites, 

its biggest crowd 

pleasers have to be 

the mini-Christmas 

puddings. This 

seasonal staple 

started its life in the 

15th century as a 

meat soup doused 

with spices come 

Christmas. Over 

the years, the liquid 

in the dish was 

reduced, the meat 

and vegetables 

disappeared and 

dried fruit and 

nuts were added. 

Traditionally, 

Christmas pud 

is made on 

“Stir-up Sunday” 

– the Sunday before 

Advent – and then 

left to mature until 

Christmas Day, but 

these mini offerings 

can be made at the 

last minute if you 

run out of time. 

Delia’s Happy 

Christmas (£25/ 

€27), published by 

Ebury Press. 

Don’t feel like 

slaving away this 

holiday season? 

Sample tradition at 

these top spots: 

★ Simply 

Heathcotes 

LIVERPOOL 

Christmas pud 

served with rum 

THE BUZZ | FESTIVE DESSERT 

sauce and brandy 

butter is served till 

23 December at 

this fi ne restaurant. 

Beetham Plaza, 

25 The Strand, 

tel: +44 (0)151 

236 3536 

★ Rushton Hall 

BIRMINGHAM 

For something 

lighter, try the hall’s 

festive feast, with a 

Christmas pudding 

souffl é to top it off. 

Rushton, 

Northamptonshire, 

tel: +44 (0)153 

671 3001 

★ Covent Garden 

Pudding Race 

LONDON 

Test your speed 

at 11am on 5 

December when 

teams in fancy dress 

tackle an assault 

course carrying a 

Christmas pudding. 

The money raised 

goes to charity, and 

everyone gets to 

sample tasty pud. 

Claire Martin 


THE BUZZ | GINGERBREAD 

★ TASTE OF CHRISTMAS > 4–6 DECEMBER 

LONDON 

Christmas has 

many different 

meanings to those 

who celebrate it, 

but there is one 

thing that rings 

true for most: 

Christmas includes 

eating, gorging 

and feasting on 

wonderfully rich 

food. And what 

better way to 

prep yourself for 

Home Sweet Home 

Gingerbread houses originate in Germany, 

Austria and Scandinavia, where they top 

the list of spicy, sweet festive treats 

salivating snacks 

and mammoth 

main courses than 

Taste of Christmas, 

held at the ExCel 

centre in London. 

Like its summer 

equivalent, Taste of 

London, this festival 

celebrates food 

over a three-day 

period, with dishes 

from 18 of London’s 

top restaurants, 

including L’Anima, 


Sumosan and 

Tamarind. 

Gastronomes 

and novices alike 

can sample the 

capital’s best chefs’ 

on-trend seasonal 

dishes and pick up 

a few tips to wow 

their guests come 

Christmas Day. 

Wander through 

more than 150 

stalls set up by 

gourmet cuisine 

companies and 

artisan producers, 

and pick up 

everything from the 

all-important turkey 

to lip-smacking 

wines, decadent 

chocolate creations 

and even table 

decorations. Plenty 

of inspiration for 

the big day. 

tasteofchristmas. 

com 

Claire Martin 

TASTE 

BUDS 

IF THE SPIRIT of 

Christmas has a 

house to retire to 

after a hard day 

spreading festive 

cheer, it probably 

looks like this. A 

fairytale dwelling, 

enticingly lit from 

within, laden with 

dollops of sugar 

snow, and entirely 

edible from the roof 

tiles to the front 

door. In Scandinavia, 

Austria, and 

Germany, where the 

gingerbread house 

originated, you will 

be enchanted by 

the sight and aroma 

of these beautiful 

baked creations 

everywhere you go 

at Christmas time. 

Gingerbread 

has a long and 

rich history that 

goes back to the 

11th century, when 

spices were brought 

back to Europe 

from the Middle 

East by crusaders 

and pilgrims. In 

addition to its 

exotic spicy fl avour, 

ginger has always 

been credited with 

medicinal benefi ts; 

to aid digestion, 

prevent colds and 

ease nausea. It 

was also prized 

for its preservative 

qualities and bakers 

began using it in 

confections. Its 

status as a portable, 

early super-food 

and fl avour 

enhancer made it 

extremely popular. 

During festivals 

and feast days in 

the Middle Ages, 

you were never 

far from a piece of 

gingerbread, which 

was made into 

elaborate shapes 

by Catholic monks 

and pressed into 

special carved 

wooden moulds 

whose decorations 

included animals, 

fl owers and biblical 

scenes. In Medieval 

England it was sold 

at gingerbread fairs 

and ladies would 

present gingerbread 

favours to knights 

at jousting 

tournaments. 

In some English 

PHOTO © PHOTOLIBRARY

villages, unmarried 

women traditionally 

ate gingerbread 

“husbands” in the 

belief that it would 

increase their 

chances of fi nding a 

mate, hence today’s 

gingerbread men. 

In the rest of 

Europe, gingerbread 

varied from a soft 

spicy cake to a 

crisp, fl at biscuit. 

There was pain 

d’épices in France, 

and the dense, 

chewy panforte in 

Italy, but Germany 

is the country with 

the longest and 

strongest tradition 

of gingerbread, 

or Lebkuchen. 

In Nuremberg 

especially, 

gingerbread 

became almost 

an art form and its 

quality was so high 

it could be used as 

currency to pay city 

taxes, as well as 

being considered 

a gift worthy of 

heads of state and 

royalty. The oldest 

written recipe 

dates to the 16th 

century and is kept 

in Nuremberg’s 

Germanic Museum. 

The iconic image 

of the gingerbread 

house has been 

stamped onto our 

consciousness by 

the fairytale Hansel 

and Gretel. Two 

children are cruelly 

abandoned in the 

forest and happen 

upon a house made 

of gingerbread and 

FOOD FOR 

THOUGHT 

Nuremberg has 

had a gingerbread 

guild since 1643 

and is now the 

gingerbread capital 

of the world. 

sweets, presided 

over by a wicked 

witch. After some 

frankly horrifi c 

plot twists, the 

resourceful children 

dispatch the old 

crone, and the 

tale ends happily 

with the children 

going home with a 

lifetime’s supply of 

gingerbread. It is 

the candy-studded 

gingerbread 

house that is the 

undisputed star 

of the story, the 

detail that makes 

it magical and 

memorable. 

In 19th-century 

Germany, the 

romantic notion 

of the gingerbread 

house took hold 

and became part 

of the magic of 

Christmas. In some 

villages, each family 

would make a 

gingerbread version 

of their house, 

which was added 

to an edible model 

village, displayed 

for Christmas and 

then broken up and 

eaten by the village 

children on New 

Year’s Day. 

The gingerbread 

house tradition is 

as strong as ever. 

You can buy ready- 

made versions, 

and kits, but 

of course the 

best route to 

gingerbread 

supremacy is to 

make your own. 

You get to play 

architect, builder 

and decorator, 

with the added 

advantage that, 

come the New Year, 

this Christmas 

decoration won’t 

have to be stuffed 

in a box under the 

stairs, because it 

will all have been 

eaten. Melina Keays 

WHERE 

TO BUY 

GINGERBREAD 

AROUND THE 

NETWORK 

★ BERLIN 

The KaDeWe is one 

of western Europe’s 

largest department 

stores, with a 

top-fl oor food 

hall that covers 

7,000m 2 . Kaufhaus 

des Westens, 21–24 

Tauentzienstrasse, 

kadewe.de 

★ MUNICH 

The Christmas 

market in 

Marienplatz 

Square is on until 

Christmas Eve and 

takes place in front 

of the beautiful 

Town Hall at the 

heart of Munich’s 

Old Town. It’s one of 

Germany’s largest, 

and dates back to 

the 17th century. 

★ STOCKHOLM 

One of the 

biggest and 

most impressive 

Christmas fairs 

in Sweden, the 

colossal, openair 

Djurgården 

market, held during 

the weekends 

leading up to 

Christmas, sells 

all kinds of festive 

goodies, plus 

there’s live music, 

games, and craft 

demonstrations. 

10am–4pm; 5–6, 

12–13 and 19–20 

December; 49–51 

Djurgårdsslätten, 

skansen.se 

Palekh 

The magic of Russian 

lacquer miniatures 

Special exhibition on the fascination of 

academic folk art from a village. 

28 November 2009–14 February 2010 

Opening Hours: 

MUSEUM, SHOP and CAFÉ: 

Daily from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. 

Steinenvorstadt 1, CH-4051 Basel 

Tel. +41 (0)61 225 95 95 

www.puppenhausmuseum.ch 

The building is accessible by wheelchair.

THE BUZZ | AWARD WINNERS 

READERS’ 

AWARDS 

2009 

And The 

Winners Are... 

This summer we launched our fi rst-ever easyJet 

Traveller Readers’ Awards, asking you, our 

passengers, to vote for your favourite products, 

places and services across the network. We had an 

overwhelming response so we’re planning more 

award for next year and are excited to announce 

the winners in all 10 categories for 2009. 

1 BEST DESTINATION Rome 

2 BEST SKI RESORT Chamonix 

3 BEST SPA Aldemar Royal Mare 

Thalasso Spa Crete 

4 BEST AIRPORT Faro 

5 BEST LOCAL BEER London Pride 

6 BEST BUSINESS SCHOOL IE Madrid 

7 BEST WATCH Raymond Weil 

8 BEST CAMERA MANUFACTURER Nikon 

9 BEST TRAVEL GADGET/ 

LUGGAGE Samsonite 

10 BEST CLUB NIGHT/ 

MUSIC VENUE Hula Boogie, London 

OUR 

COMP 

WINNER 

TRAVELLER 

We picked out the name of one of our 

voters at random to win a three-night stay 

in a junior suite at the Santa Clara Urban 

Hotel and Spa in Palma. Congratulations to 

Ricardo Reis from Kennington in London, 

who will be whisking his girlfriend Stephanie 

off on a romantic trip to Majorca! 


THE BUZZ | BRUGES 

34 | TRAVELLER | DECEMBER 09

PHOTO © GETTY IIMAGES 

OUT OF 

TOWN 

Bruges Ice 

Festival 

BRUSSELS 

It’s the kind of job 

worthy of mythical 

status. Build a 

beautiful village 

complete with train 

station, atmospheric 

pub, sculptures 

and a slew of 

funfair rides for 

the kids. Decorate 

it in signature 

artwork, then watch 

it slowly dissolve 

into nothing. And 

rebuild it all over 

again the following 

year. Welcome 

to Bruges Ice 

Festival, an annual 

event open from 

10am–7pm until 

10 January, just an 

hour’s train ride 

from Brussels and 

metres from the 

central train station. 

With 300 

tonnes of ice 

works decorated 

with 400 tonnes 

of snow, the event 

calls for an army 

of international 

ice sculptors who 

descend on the city 

to create a winter 

wonderland made 

entirely of ice, with 

showpieces and 

interactive snowbound 

activities. 

THE BUZZ | BRUGES 

Previous themes 

have included fairy 

tales and classical 

styles, but this year 

sees an animated 

fi lm become the 

focal point. With 

sabre-toothed tigers 

and nut-gathering 

rodents galore, Ice 

Age is the 2009 

foil for the talent 

of Bruges resident 

sculptors, and 

the fantastical 

possibilities have 

seen more madcap 

designs than ever. 

On completion, 

the vast array of ice 

exhibits are housed 

in an enormous 

thermal tent 

designed to keep 

the contents at a 

constant –6°C. But 

while guests may 

want to keep their 

coats on to enjoy 

the display, hurtling 

down a towering ice 

slide into a frostily 

wrought pub is 

well worth getting 

a red nose for. Not 

to mention making 

that steaming hot 

chocolate and 

Belgian waffl e all 

the more deserved. 

icesculpture.be 

Catherine Quinn 


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3 

MADE 

FOR... 

Christmas 

Unusual festive 

gifts from around 

the network 

Presépio 

€60 

LISBON 

Christmas in 

Portugal isn’t 

complete without a 

presépio, or nativity 

scene. This riot of 

colour is about as 

authentic as it gets. 

Made by artisan 

potter Irmãos 

Baraça, it’s available 

from concept 

store Ofi cina à 

Lapa in Lisbon, 

which specialises 

in handcrafts and 

design objects from 

across Portugal. 

90 Rue Saraiva de 

Carvalho, tel: +351 

213 978 203 

4 

1 2 3 4 5 

Caganer 

FROM €6 

BARCELONA 

This charming 

fi gurine of a 

peasant squatting 

with lowered 

pants is such a 

regular addition to 

Catalonian nativity 

scenes that when he 

was omitted from 

Barcelona city’s 

display in 2005 

there was an outcry. 

Said to bring on a 

successful harvest 

(he is depicted 

“fertilising the 

earth”), you can 

buy him from the 

Christmas markets 

in Barcelona or at 

caganer.com 

1 

Santa 

Figurine 

€59.90 

BERLIN 

Handcrafted 

wooden fi gures are 

an essential part 

of Christmas in 

Germany. Candles, 

and sweets used to 

adorn Christmas 

trees, but in the 

19th century, people 

started adding 

wooden ornaments. 

This beautiful piece 

by Björn Köhler 

can be found at 

q-handel.de or visit 

Erzgebirgskunst 

Original in Berlin. 9 

Sophienstrasse, tel: 

+49 (0)30 282 6754 

Chocolate 

Wreath 

£25 (€28) 

LONDON 

Originally, wreaths 

symbolised life 

enduring through 

the cold winter 

months and were 

made of evergreen 

branches. But 

Christmas wouldn’t 

be the same without 

lots of chocolate, 

so why not splash 

out on this edible 

version with dark 

chocolate, roasted 

almonds and orange 

peel from Artisan du 

Chocolat. 89 Lower 

Sloane Street, tel: 

+44 (0)84 5270 

6996 

THE BUZZ | SHOPPING 

Christmas 

Tree 

DKK299 (€40) 

COPENHAGEN 

Danish kids will 

recognise artist 

Shane Brox from 

his popular TV show 

Shanes Verden. 

This year he has 

created Christmas 

decorations for 

Royal Copenhagen, 

including this fun 

Christmas tree, 

which you can even 

put candles in! Pick 

up yours at the 

Royal Copenhagen 

fl agship store. 

6 Amagertorv, 

tel: +45 3313 7181 

5 

DECEMBER 09 | TRAVELLER | 37 

2

THE BUZZ | CHRISTMAS TRADITIONS 

Festive Spirit 

Wherever you are this month, there’s bound to be holiday 

cheer. Or you can seek it out at these top events 

3 

OF THE 

BEST 

Saint Lucia 

STOCKHOLM 

The feast of Saint 

Lucia is one of 

the few Catholic 

festivals still 

celebrated in 

Scandinavia. In 

Sweden especially, 

13 December is 

a highlight of the 

calendar, with girls 

dressing in white, 

placing candles 

in their hair and 

leading processions 

of singers through 

the towns. Legend 

has it that Saint 

Lucia lived during 

the reign of 

Diocletian and was 

persecuted for 

being a Christian. 

Though her eyes 


were gouged out 

as punishment, she 

could miraculously 

still see afterwards 

and her feast day 

now brings light 

to Sweden in the 

depths of winter. 

In 1927, a Swedish 

newspaper chose 

a girl to be Saint 

Lucia in its town’s 

parade and ever 

since, young girls 

each year have 

aspired to win 

the role. The best 

place to celebrate 

in Stockholm is 

Skansen Open-Air 

Museum, where 

one of the main 

processions begins. 

visitsweden.com 

Pantomime 

MANCHESTER 

Nobody knows why 

Brits love celebrities 

in crazy costumes 

making childish 

jokes, but Christmas 

would defi nitely 

not be the same 

without a thighslapping 

panto. 

Halls across the UK 

are transformed 

throughout the 

festive period, fi lled 

Presepe 

NAPLES 

While Santa and 

his elves have 

changed the face of 

Christmas forever, 

in Naples some 

traditional fi xtures 

are still central to 

celebrations. Each 

year, intricately 

crafted presepe 

(nativity scenes) 

are displayed 


with quirky stage 

props and kiddies 

shouting: “He’s 

behind you!” If 

you’re a grown-up 

you might enjoy the 

Lowry Theatre’s 

version, White 

Christmas. The allsinging, 

all-dancing 

Bing Crosbyinspired 

show runs 

until 9 January. 

thelowry.com 

streets of the Italian 

city, including along 

the Spaccanapoli, 

reliving the scene 

of Jesus’ birth and 

reminding onlookers 

of the reason for 

the season. Look 

closely, though, and 

you will see some 

modern additions: 

who knew Barack 

Obama was around 

in Biblical times? 

PHOTOS © IMAGEBANK, SWEDEN.SE, PHOTOLIBRARY | WORDS AMY DENNIS

THE BUZZ | YOUNG JOURNALISTS 

KIDS’ 

TRIP 

WHO BETTER TO 

talk about the great 

things to do for kids 

than kids themselves? 

This month we sent 

young reporters 

Amy (12), Todd (10) 

and Oscar (8) from 

Berkhamsted to a kids’ 

workshop at Circus 

Space in east London, 

the UK’s only worldclass 

circus training 

facility. Here’s how 

they got on… 


Circus Space 

AMY We had a two-hour 

workshop where we did 

the fl ying trapeze, juggling, 

acrobatics, wire tightrope 

and a human pyramid. 

We had two instructors, 

Emily and Leila, and they 

were both fantastic. They 

explained all the tricks and 

activities really well and 

were very friendly, and 

made us feel at ease. My 

favourite was defi nitely 

the fl ying trapeze – it was 

the most exciting and 

most terrifying. The most 

intimidating bit was looking 

up at the 4m-high platform 

from the ground before 

we’d even started! It looks 

a lot higher than it actually 

is. The most exciting bit of 

the fl ying trapeze is when 

you hold on to the bar and 

fi rst step off. I screamed at 

the fi rst bit – it was quite a 

shock! My brothers didn’t, 

though. I think the toughest 

trick to try was the juggling 

– I couldn’t catch the balls 

Kids play reporter for a day 

and throw them at the 

same time! The tightrope 

wire was really hard, too. 

Leila told us we had to slide 

our toes along the wire from 

one foot to the other so we 

could feel the rope. You had 

to stand up tall and look 

straightforward otherwise 

you’d lose your balance. 

TODD I had a brilliant time 

at the circus school. My 

favourite activity was the 

fl ying trapeze too. It was 

really scary when I climbed 

the ladder and got to the 

platform. Even though 

it looked really high up, I 

knew I wanted to do it. Leila 

explained the technique 

well but it was really hard 

to get it right – you had to 

put your legs straight and 

forward in front of you at 

each end of the swing, but 

once you got it, you could 

swing faster. I want to go 

back and do the fl ying 

trapeze again soon! I found 

juggling the hardest – even 

just juggling with two balls 

was really tricky. 

OSCAR I’m afraid of 

heights, so I was quite 

scared when I got to the 

top of the platform for the 

fl ying trapeze. But I didn’t 

fi nd it hard – you just have 

to hold on and step off. It 

was most fun when you 

fi nished swaying and let go 

of the bar. Because you’re 

strapped in to a harness 

and held by rope, you fl oat 

down from the bar to the 

mats, though I kept falling 

over when I landed. The 

juggling and cartwheels 

were the hardest. I can’t 

do cartwheels, I’ve tried 

before and I just fall over. 

I had the best balance on 

the tightrope wire – Amy 

and Todd kept falling off! 

Circus Space’s kids 

workshops start on 30 

January, from £45 (€50) 

each; thecircusspace.co.uk 

ATTENTION 

ALL KIDS! 

Want to report 

back on a holiday 

activity you’ll be 

doing soon? Let us 

know! Whatever 

language you 

speak, email 

easyJetkids@inkpublishing.com 

and tell us your 

name, age, where 

you’re fl ying to 

with us and when, 

and what you 

want to report on. 

We’ll pick the 

most original 

ideas and arrange 

for free tickets.

Düsseldorf in Advent: 

Exciting Mix of Christmas Market, Shopping and Winter Sports 

Whether on business, city trip or shopping 

tour: Düsseldorf is always worth a visit. 

The city’s attractiveness is reflected in 

the statistics of Düsseldorf airport. Direct 

connections to 180 destinations worldwide, 

77 airlines, 229,000 starts and 

landings and more than 18 million passengers 

per year underline the outstanding 

importance of the Rhine metropolis to 

visitors and locals. Arrivals at Germany’s 

third largest airport will rise drastically in 

December – during the Advent period 

Düsseldorf presents an unequalled, exciting 

mix of Christmas market, shopping 

and spectacular winter sports. 

Nostalgic market stalls, full shopping 

bags and world-famous athletes 

Until December 23 rd , the cheerful Christmas 

market presents itself with individual 

themes at different places in the lively city 

centre. Those 

who are unable 

to find a present 

for their beloved 

ones on the 

Christmas market have good chances of 

succeeding in Düsseldorf’s shops. It is 

well known that the city on the Rhine is 

one of the strongholds of the international 

fashion scene, and opportunities for 

shopping abound. Germany’s most famous 

luxury mile, Königsallee, is just one 

of the countless shopping hotspots in the 

city centre. On Sunday, December 13, 

shops are open from 1 to 6 p.m. for 

Christmas shopping. 

It is beyond doubt that Düsseldorf will 

have snow on the second weekend of Advent 

– not because of a climatic phenomenon, 

but because of the FIS cross-country 

skiing world cup. 

From December 4 to 6, a spectacular 

800 m run of artificial snow will be created 

for the 8th time against the background 

of Old Town and Rhine tower. Directly on 

the Rhine embankment, the world’s best 

cross-country skiers will compete for worldcup 

points. Apart from the suspense of 

the competition, spectators will again enjoy 

a diversified music and entertainment 

programme off the ski run – free of charge 

and open to everyone. 

Relax, feel good and celebrate 

Düsseldorf has a lot to offer all year round. 

The traditional Old Town and the Media 

Harbour attract with a trendy gastronomic 

scene - quaint pubs, cosy restaurants, 

gourmet eateries and hip bars. A boat 

trip on the Rhine along Düsseldorf’s Old 

Town and the city’s wide range of cultural 

facilities and programmes are also definite 

musts. 

For attractive city tours, 

Christmas city walks and more 

information see: 

www.christmas-market-duesseldorf.com 

www.visitduesseldorf.de 

www.fly2dus.com

GOETHE EXECUTIVE MBA IN ALLIANCE WITH DUKE - GOETHE 

FULL-TIME MBA - EXECUTIVE MASTER OF FINANCE AND 

ACCOUNTING - OPEN ENROLLMENT AND CUSTOMIZED PROGRAMS. 

www.gbs-edu.de 

Arpad Dobriban, Churut – Milch für unterwegs, Schabziger, since 2006 

© VG Bild-Kunst, Bonn 2009 

 

 

The Kunsthalle Düsseldorf 

is supported by 

 

 

 

 

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is funded by 

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PHOTO © ULRICH OTTE/DUSSELDORF MARKETING & TOURISMUS 

NEW 

ROUTE 

Düsseldorf 

GERMANY 

Dubbed “Paris on 

the Rhine” back 

in 1967 by Time 

magazine due to its 

up-and-coming art 

scene, Düsseldorf 

is still a culturally 

progressive hub, 

buzzing with 

cutting-edge 

exhibitions and 

contemporary 

architecture 

and attracting 

the work of new 

and established 

artists. Local Klaus 

Rinke showed his 

fascination with 

clocks when he 

created one of the 

city’s most unusual 

and monumental 

sculptures in 1987. 

Twenty-four German 

railway clocks stand 

in a public park, 

set to the precise 

atomic clock held in 

Braunschweig that 

keeps Germany’s 

offi cial time. 

Look beyond the 

conglomeration of 

steel and glass offi ce 

buildings and you’ll 

discover a vibrant 

nightlife scene at the 

centre of the city. 

The Altstadt, (Old 

Town) spans less 

than half a square 

kilometre and is 

often referred to as 

the longest bar in 

the world. It boasts 

over 300 bars and 

clubs and even 

THE BUZZ | RHINELAND 

has its own beer 

– altbier, the name 

referring to the altus, 

or rising yeast, that 

characterises it, not 

the district in which 

it’s produced. 

Getting to this 

cosmopolitan 

city on the Rhine 

couldn’t be easier. 

Flights from Basel/ 

Mulhouse started 

last month, and 

routes from Rome 

and London Gatwick 

are planned for 

the beginning 

of February. 

Prices start at 

€16.49 one way 

including taxes. 

Claire Martin 

easyJet flies to... 

Düsseldorf from three destinations. 

See our insider guide on page 132. 

Book online at easyJet.com 


© Bal du Moulin Rouge 2009 - Moulin Rouge ® 

Dinner & Show at 7pm from €150 • Show at 9pm : €102, at 11pm : €92 

Montmartre - 82, boulevard de Clichy - 75018 Paris 

Reservations : 33 (0)1 53 09 82 82 - www.moulin-rouge.com

PHOTO © PHOTOLIBRARY 

For those who want to live it up in style with the locals in Paris, follow our 

guide to a winter weekend of sparkling highlights and hidden luxuries 

FRIDAY 

Kick start your weekend by treating 

yourself to a suite at the Hôtel Castille 

(from €250, book at hotels.easyJet.com), 

a discreet luxury hotel conveniently located 

in the heart of Paris, between the Ritz 

and Chanel. Before you hit the shops, 

follow well-heeled Parisians to Ladurée 

(16 Rue Royale, tel: +33 (0)1 4260 2179), 

an elegant salon du thé with legendary 

macaron pastries. Here, you can also stock 

up on small gifts like candles, sweets and 

signature bags in mint green or pink. 

A good place to start shopping is 

around Rue St-Honoré, where the hottest 

boutiques can be found. Around the corner, 

the historic arcades of the Palais Royal 

are home to several high-fashion houses 

and one of the best vintage boutiques in 

Paris, Didier Ludot (33 Rue Valois), where, 

if your budget allows, you can pick up 

one-of-a-kind vintage couture pieces from 

designers such as Dior, Lanvin, Chanel 

and Givenchy. You’ll fi nd familiar highfashion 

names at the Golden Triangle, the 

luxury-shopping district within the Avenue 

des Champs-Élysées, the Avenue George 

V, and the Avenue Montaigne. Look out 

for multi-brand Montaigne Market (57 

Avenue Montaigne), and Chrome Hearts 

along the street at number 18, where rock 

stars stock up on edgy accessories. 

WEEKENDER | PARIS 

The Champs-Élysées 

lights up for festive 

night-time shopping 

DECADENT 

SHOPPING 

WEEKEND IN 

PARIS 

WORDS HEATHER 

STIMMLER-HALL 

After a day’s splurging, you’ll certainly 

need a pick-me-up. Enjoy cocktails 

and dinner at La Païva (25 Avenue des 

Champs-Élysées, tel: +33 (0)1 5353 2525), 

the opulent mansion of a 19th-century 

courtesan redecorated by designer Jacques 

Garcia. If you can stand the pace, the VIP 

Room (188 Rue de Rivoli) is the club du 

jour, conveniently close to your hotel if you 

need to change into your dancing shoes! 

SATURDAY 

Step off the tourist trail to the north 

Marais, one of the up-and-coming areas 

of Paris known for its contemporary 

art galleries and unique fashion 


WEEKENDER | PARIS 

Clockwise from here, 

a window display at 

Printemps; macarons 

from Ladurée; Païva 

restaurant; Hôtel 

Castille; Chacha Club 

boutiques. The best new fashion stores 

are concentrated around Rue Charlot, 

Rue Poitou and Rue Vieille du Temple. 

Don’t miss Surface to Air (68 Rue Charlot) 

for hip streetwear with a French touch, 

before heading to the Montorgueil district, 

north of Les Halles, for a quick snack 

or cappuccino at Caldo-Freddo (34 Rue 

Montorgueil, tel: +33 (0)1 4026 3032), 

an authentic Italian café whose rum hot 

chocolate will thaw out your frozen limbs! 

Stylish young locals shop in the 

mid-priced boutiques around the Église 

St-Eustache, especially on the Rue de 

Montmartre and Rue du Jour. Nearby 

Almost Famous (65 Rue d’Argout) 

specialises in the most wearable pieces 

from French designers, and around the 

corner, the Experimental Cocktail Club 

(37 Rue St Sauveur), is an ideal spot to 


join a fashionable yet laidback crowd of 

hip youngsters enjoying curiously strong 

concoctions before dinner. Dress to 

impress (and reserve a table in advance) if 

you want to dine and dance with the cool 

kids at the Chacha Club (47 Rue Berger, 

tel: +33 (0)1 4013 1212), a small restaurantbar-nightclub 

arranged like a private 

apartment, with nightly themed events 

and DJs. 

SUNDAY 

Get into the spirit of the season with a 

stroll through the Christmas villages 

outside the churches of St-Germain-des- 

Prés and St-Sulpice, where you can buy 

speciality foods, crafts and jewellery. Join 

Paris’ editors, writers, artists and agents 

at Les Editeurs (4 Carrefour de l’Odéon, 

tel: +33 (0)1 4326 6776), a contemporary 

establishment in the chic St-Germaindes-Prés 

district, or sip a grand crème 

on the terrace of Deux Magots (6 Place 

St-Germain-des-Près, tel: +33 (0)1 4548 

5525), where Sartre, de Beauvoir and 

Hemingway used to write. Finally, browse 

the elaborate Christmas window displays of 

Paris’ Grands Magasins – Le Bon Marché 

(38 Rue de Sèvres), Galeries Lafayette 

(40 Boulevard Haussmann) and nearby 

Printemps (64 Boulevard Haussmann) 

department stores all try to outdo each 

other with typical French fl air. A festive 

way to end a weekend shopping in the 

City of Lights. 


Paris from 33 destinations. 



PHOTO © CORBIS

LISBOA GOLF COAST 

Lisbon has all of the ingredients for a perfect golf break... 

THE LISBON AREA is the perfect destination for 

golfi ng enthusiasts. In fact, there is so much 

choice that it’s hard to know where to start. 

Families, couples and lone travellers will all fi nd 

plenty to amuse themselves with – on and off 

the golf course. 

With more than 20 internationally-renowned 

golf courses waiting to be discovered 

from Estoril to Sintra, along the Costa Azul 

(Blue Coast) and in Ribatejo and the West 

Region, there is no denying this is a golfer’s 

paradise. The mild and temperate climate of the 

area and its natural surroundings are ideal for 

golfi ng. With an infi nite ocean, golden beaches, 

rivers, cliffs, dunes and relaxing lakes, it’s hard 

to imagine a more inspiring landscape. 

TEMPERATURE CHART 

MONTHS 

January 

February 

March 

April 

May 

June 

July 

August 

September 

October 

November 

December 

Year Average 

SUNNY 

HOURS 

5 

6 

6,5 

8,5 

10 

10 

11 

10 

8,5 

7,5 

5,5 

5 

7,45 

LOWEST 

TEMP ºC 

7,8 

8,8 

10,5 

11,5 

12,5 

13,5 

14 

15,5 

13,5 

13 

11 

8,5 

11,7 

With all this in mind, it should come as no 

surprise that the International Association of 

Golf Tour Operators named Lisbon as the best 

European golfi ng destination of the year in 

2007. But Lisbon is far more than just a golfi ng 

destination. With its extremely diverse and 

multicultural make-up, and steeped in more 

than 800 years of history, Lisbon is a city full of 

museums, monuments, radiant squares, narrow, 

winding streets and delightful views over 

the Tagus River. 

Known by many as “the White City”, due to 

its distinctive light, Lisbon is home to an outstanding 

local cuisine, whose sublime fl avours 

are perfectly complemented by fi ne Portuguese 

wines, which are the envy of many countries 

HIGHEST 

TEMP ºC 

15 

16 

17 

20 

22 

25 

28 

30 

28 

22 

18 

16 

21,4 

AVERAGE 

TEMP ºC 

11,4 

12,4 

13,8 

15,7 

17,3 

19,2 

21,0 

22,8 

20,8 

17,5 

14,5 

12,8 

16,6 

DAYS 

WITHOUT RAIN 

17 

16 

19 

21 

23 

27 

30 

29 

25 

22 

18 

18 

265 

PROMOTION 

around the world. At a traditional restaurant 

in one of the historic quarters of the city, you 

will most likely enjoy your meal to the sounds 

of fado – an distinctively Portuguese genre of 

music that exposes the soul of an entire nation 

with its every wistful lyric and tune. 

Taking a refreshing dip in crystal-clear waters 

and under sunny skies at one of the capital’s 

many inviting beaches is a must for those who 

love swimming. And there is no better way to 

top this off than with a relaxing break at one 

of the numerous open-air cafes dotted along 

the seafront. As night falls, Lisbon comes alive 

again, reinventing itself on every corner. Taking 

to the streets at this time of day is a journey of 

discovery in one of Europe’s most lively cities. 

LISBON GOLF COAST 

WINNER 

GOLF DESTINATION 

OF THE YEAR 

EUROPE 

2007 

XXX 09 | TRAVELLER | 47

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FRIDAY 

On arriving in Pisa, check into the 

riverside Royal Victoria Hotel (rooms 

from €56, book at hotels.easyJet.com), 

conveniently located by Pisa’s main 

attraction, the Field of Miracles (Campo 

dei Miracoli). This monumental square 

contains the huge Cathedral, the Baptistry 

and the Leaning Tower itself, all built in 

the 14th century. Start your weekend with 

a little gentle shopping; the stalls scattered 

along one side of the Campo sell everything 

you could possibly stick a Leaning Tower 

on, from snow globes, to keyrings, to fridge 

magnets. For local handcrafts, walk up Via 

Santa Maria to Emporio Nuovo Millennio 

at number 119, where beautifully made 

leather handbags come in all the colours of 

the rainbow and start at €25. 

Come dinnertime, eat at the friendly 

Osteria I Santi (71 Via Santa Maria, tel: 

+39 05 028 081) with its excellent cuisine, 

including Pisan and Tuscan specialities, 

and a jolly, kitsch interior hung with 

giant photographs of models posed as the 

Madonna and Jesus. Enjoy a hearty pasta 

dish, huge salad, coffee and drinks for the 

bargain price of just €9. 

SATURDAY 

Start your day bright and early, and explore 

the real Pisa. A stroll along the River 

DISCOUNT 

SHOPPING 

WEEKEND IN 

PISA 

WORDS KAMIN 

MOHAMMADI 

Keen shoppers will discover budget boutiques, buzzing markets and 

designer discount shopping dotted beyond Pisa’s Leaning Tower 

WEEKENDER | PISA 

Explore Pisa’s 

atmospheric streets, 

lined with boutiques, 

cafés and restaurants 

Arno affords great views of the restrained 

Renaissance city, and from here you can 

spot the small white church of Santa 

Maria della Spina on the other side of the 

Arno. With its white Gothic spikes and 

rose windows, it’s like a little jewel box 

among the solidly unfussy tan and yellow 

Renaissance façades along the river. Delve 

into the alleyways, which will lead you to 

the medieval quarter and the lovely Piazza 

delle Vettovaglie, edged by an elegant 

16th-century portico. The square hosts a 

colourful daily market, which spills into 

the surrounding streets. Gaze at glorious 

Italian fruit and vegetables presented 

alongside cut-price clothes. 


WEEKENDER | PISA 

Stop for a pizza at the tiny Pizzeria Il 

Montino (1 Via del Monte, tel: +39 050 

598 695) or try cecina, a yellow pancake 

made from chickpea fl our from a 13thcentury 

Pisan recipe. Cutting through to 

the Borgo Stretto, you’ll hit Pisa’s most 

elegant street, its boutiques ranged under 

the arches of the Renaissance portico. 

Check out Hightech Malibu at number 17 

for fun designer gear and local jewellery, 

and Samarcanda at number 26 for quality, 

affordable shoes. A plaque above Caffè 

Settimelli under the arches signals that the 

house above was where Pisa’s most famous 

son, astronomer Galileo Galilei was born. 

Mezzo Bridge connects the two halves 

of Pisa, leading to Corso Italia, Pisa’s 

upmarket high street with big Italian and 

international mid-market brands such 

as Zara. On the bridge and the streets 



Santa Maria della Spina; 

Royal Victoria Hotel; 

Mezzo Bridge Christmas 

markets; Piazza delle 

Vettovaglie market 

surrounding it there is a big antiques 

market every second weekend of the month 

and on the weekends before Christmas, 

the market takes on a festive feel with 

stalls of gifts and decorations. Before you 

cross the Mezzo Bridge, though, pay a visit 

to the city’s best gelateria, a few minutes’ 

walk along the Lungarno. De Coltelli (23 

Lungarno) has been making ice cream 

since the 18th century and offers exotic 

and unusual fl avours. 

In the evening, dine at Cagliostro (Via 

del Castelletto, tel: +39 050 575 413). It’s 

hard to fi nd but worth it for the menu 

of specialities from all over Italy and the 

impressive wine list, all at around €20 a 

head. Afterwards, head for the lively bars 

from here to Piazza dei Cavalieri, which are 

popular with students. Some of the bars 

play live music on Saturday nights. 

SUNDAY 

Devote your day to discount designer 

shopping at The Mall (8 Via Europa, 

Leccio, Reggello), just 90 minutes outside 

Pisa by train and taxi. This pleasant, leafy 

outlet village is the place to indulge in some 

serious bargain hunting, with designers 

including Gucci, Armani, Bottega Veneta, 

Marni, YSL, Alexander McQueen, Stella 

McCartney, Pucci and many more. Some 

stores give you the chance to snap up 

purchases at discounts of up to 60%. At 

the end of your spree you will have offi cially 

discovered one of Tuscany’s best-kept 

secrets – Pisa as a shopping destination. 


Pisa from six destinations. 



PHOTOS © ALAMY, GETTY IMAGES, PHOTOLIBRARY

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WINTER ODYSSEY 

W INTER 

ODYSSEY 

ILLUSTRATIONS ALEX GREEN 

Make the most of our network with a modern-day grand tour of Europe. This 

month, get the boys together for an action-packed, snow-fi lled trip, stopping off 

at an ice bar in Stockholm, skiing off piste near Geneva, ice-skating in London and 

high-speed bobsleighing just outside Milan 

52 | TRAVELLER | DECEMBER 09

STOCKHOLM 

Enjoy a drink at the Absolut Icebar 

from SEK170 (€16) 

Don a specially designed cape that will 

keep you nice and warm, sip a vodka 

cocktail served in a glass made of ice and 

take a seat on an icy bench. Everything in 

this bar is made from ice taken from the 

Torne River, the ice staying frozen thanks 

to the space being kept at a chilly –5˚C. 

2–4 Vasaplan 

Dinner Enjoy dinner surrounded by 

Sweden’s greatest art at F12, in the Royal 

Academy of Arts. The tasting menu is 

STOCKHOLM | GENEVA | LONDON | MILAN 

SEK1,195 per person. 12 Fredsgatan, 

tel: +46 8411 7348 

Hotel Stay at Stockholm Lindhagen from 

€115. Book at hotels.easyJet.com 

Shop Do some Christmas shopping at 

Sweden’s legendary department store NK 

(Nordiska Kompaniet). 18–20 Hamngatan 



GENEVA 

Go off piste à la James Bond in A 

View to a Kill and ski through the 

“Eye of the Needle” in Tignes. 

A one-day lift pass will set you back €44.50 

to whiz around the beautifully groomed 

slopes of the Espace Killy area, about two 


hours 30 minutes south-east of Geneva. 

Route We fl y from Stockholm to Geneva 

once on Monday, Wednesday, Friday and 

Saturday and twice on Sundays. 

Hotel Stay at Nash Ville Hotel from €151. 

Book at hotels.easyJet.com 

Party Fancy a glam night out? White 

‘N Silver is a super sleek and stylish 

supperclub where the city’s sophisticated 

set likes to hang out. 15 Glacis-de-Rive 

Cruise Take a wonderful, winter fondue 

cruise on Lake Geneva every Friday, from 

CHF23 (€15) per person for all the cheese 

you can eat. cgn.ch

LONDON 

Wrap up warm and hit the ice at 

Somerset House’s magical ice rink, 

from £10.50 (€11.70) 

Skate under the stars as DJs play live music 

till late, and sip a mulled wine at the Skate 

Bar and Café. somersethouse.org.uk 

Listen Looking for a quirky jazz venue to 

ward off the winter blues? Charlotte Street 

Blues Bar is just the ticket. Savour a mint 

julep for just £5.50. 74 Charlotte Street, W1 

Route We offer frequent daily fl ights 

from Geneva to London Gatwick, Luton 

and Stansted. 


Hotel Stay at The Mandeville Hotel from 


See Head to Craven Cottage, home of 

Fulham Football Club, on Boxing Day 

(26 December) for a thrilling London 

derby against Tottenham Hotspurs. Kick 

off is at 3pm. fulhamfc.com 



MILAN 

Looking for a winter thrill with a 

difference? Try bobsleighing in St 

Moritz from CHF250 (€165) each 

Speeds can reach 135kmph on the 1,722mlong 

Olympic track. St Moritz is just over 

the border in Switzerland, two-and-a-half 


hours from Milan. olympia-bobrun.ch 

Drink Head to multicultural Biko for a 

tipple and listen to DJs and live bands at 

the weekend. 18 Via Conchetta 

Route We offer frequent fl ights from 

London Gatwick to Milan Linate and 

Malpensa. We fl y from Milan Malpensa to 

Stockholm twice on Tuesdays and Sundays 

and once every other day. 

Hotels Stay at Starhotels Anderson from 


Eat Pop into confectioners Fratelli Freni 

for a delicious pistachio-topped cannoli 

pastry for €3.50. 5 Via Chiossetto ILLUSTRATIONS © ALEX GREEN/FOLIOART.CO.UK | WORDS CLAIRE MARTIN

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XXX | XXX 

LOCATION 

Lava fi eld 

Firecracker dress (£28) 

and woven ankle boots 

(£40), both from asos. 

com; brass sphere 

necklace (£145) and 

gold-leaf wooden ring 

(£90), both from Pebble 

58 | TRAVELLER | XXX 09

XXX | XXX 


XXX | XXX 


LOCATION 

This page, Jardín de 

Cactus; opposite, lava fi eld 

THIS PAGE 

Caprice silk dress 

(€107) and Miu Miu 

sunglasses (€162), both 

from littlewoodseurope. 

com; Rita vegan shoes 

(£70) from Terra Plana; 

earrings (£25) and 

bamboo bangles (set of 

three, £15), both from 

blingdeenie.com 

OPPOSITE 

SHE WEARS 

Love Label fi reball 

tunic (€38) from 

littlewoodseurope.com; 

sandals (£65) from 

Topshop; red coral 

earrings (£95), gold cuff 

(£105), red horn bangle 

(£55), brass bangle (£90) 

and gold-leaf wooden ring 

(£90), all from Pebble 

HE WEARS 

Check shirt (£25) and 

leather belt (£18), both 

from Topman; jeans 

(£216) from 1921; 

Claudius vegan shoes 

(£65) from Terra Plana

LOCATION 

This page, Casa- 

Museo Monumento 

al Campesino; 

opposite, LagOmar 

THIS PAGE 

Lurex polo (£18) from 

Topman; jeans (£216) 

from Rockstar; Claudius 

vegan shoes (£65) 

from Terra Plana 

OPPOSITE 

HE WEARS 

Swim shorts (£15) 

from exoticabrazil.com 

SHE WEARS 

Bikini (£49.95) from 

exoticabrazil.com; 

plaited fringe necklace 

(£75), three-in-one 

bangles (£75) and 

10-in-one bangles (£75), 

all from Pebble; leather 

strappy shoes (£65) 

from Topshop

XXX | XXX 


XXX | XXX 

64 | TRAVELLER | XXX 09 

LOCATION 

LagOmar 

Silk dress (£275) from 

Goldhawk; perspex 

sandals (£65) from 

asos.com; coral 

necklace (£330) from 

Pebble; cuff (€14) from 

littlewoodseurope.com 

PHOTOGRAPHY 

Philip Volkers 

STYLING 

Tara Sugar 

HAIR & MAKE-UP 

Victoria Clarke 

ART DIRECTION 

Neil Smith 

PRODUCTION 


RETOUCHING 

Remo Knecht 

MODELS 

Samantha Tea 

(fmmodelagency.com) 

Guy John Louis Binns 

(selectmodel.com) 

CONTACTS 

1921jeans.com 

asos.com 

blingdeenie.com 

littlewoodseurope.com 

pebblelondon.com 

rock-star.com 

terraplana.com 

topman.com 

topshop.com 

arnoldzimberg.com 

SPECIAL THANKS TO 

Gatwick Express 

Steven Remmerie 

Exchange rate: ¤1 = £0.93

A QUICK 

GUIDE TO 

THE CHIC 

SIDE OF 

LANZAROTE 

BY THE MID-60S, Lanzarote’s most 

famous native, the painter César 

Manrique, had made his name in New 

York and was mixing with titans of the 

art world including Warhol and Pollock. 

But disillusioned by the rat race of the 

Big Apple, he returned to the hauntingly 

beautiful volcanic island of his birth off 

the west coast of Africa. Horrifi ed by the 

government’s plans to destroy its dramatic 

landscapes with high-rise bucket-andspade 

beach resorts, he decided to dedicate 

the rest of his life to the sustainable 

development of his homeland. With a 

vision and passion that have made him 

a poster child for responsible tourism, 

he made sure that development was 

zoned and all buildings blended with the 

island’s white, cube-like vernacular style, 

with all electricity and telephone cables 

hidden underground. From the moment 

you arrive at Arrecife airport, you’ll see 

his artistic touch at every turn, from the 

Miró-style tourist board logos he designed 

to the kinetic wind sculptures that grace 

every bewildering roundabout. But it’s 

Manrique’s architecture with its James- 

Bond-meets-the-Flintstones style that is 

his most enduring legacy. 

His fi rst project was Jameos del Agua 

(tel: +34 928 848 020), a spectacular 

complex built in 1966 in a lava canal with 

a restaurant, bar and concert hall boasting 

perfect acoustics. Then over two decades he 

designed seven cultural centres including 

Casa-Museo Monumento al Campesino, a 

museum celebrating the peasants’ struggle 

to eek out a living from the island’s arid 

soil; a ruined castle in the capital which he 

converted into contemporary art museum 

MIAC (cabildodelanzarote.com); and the 

Jardín de Cactus (tel: +34 928 529 397), 

an exotic botanical garden with 10,000 

varieties of cacti built on the site of a 

disused volcanic ash quarry. Manrique’s 

work inspired droves of artists to move 

LOCATION 

El Golfo – Lago 

de Los Clicos 

HE WEARS 

Shirt (£130) from 

Arnold Zimberg; 

trousers (£60), 

leather belt (£18) 

and Starboard 

shoes (£30), all 

from Topman 

SHE WEARS 

Origami dress 

(€66) from 

littlewoodseurope. 

com; Grace sandals 

(£100) from Terra 

Plana; cowrie shell 

necklace (£165) 

from Pebble 

to the island and the government began 

to nurture local talent, such as fashion 

designer Margarita Perez, who creates 

fabulous frocks for her label Margamod 

(margamod.com) from her atelier in 

Mozaga. Legendary Spanish fi lm director 

Pedro Almodóvar shot his latest fi lm Los 

Abrazos Rotos (Broken Embraces) on 

the island, following in the footsteps of 

bohemian millionaires and movie stars like 

Omar Sharif, whose ultimate bachelor pad 

was designed by Manrique and architect 

Jesús Soto. After Sharif lost it in a poker 

game, it was christened LagOmar 

(lag-o-mar.com) and is now a museum 

with an apartment for rent at €630 a week, 

an open-air gallery, hip bar La Cueva and 

one of the best restaurants on the island. 

★ GRAN MELIA HOTEL SALINAS 

For the ultimate César Manrique 

experience, check into this glamorous fi vestar, 

which is adorned with his paintings 

and murals made of volcanic rock. He 

also designed the volcano-shaped ceiling 

lights in the lobby, the stylish free-form 

swimming pool and the extraordinary, 

tropical garden in the atrium. The 

stunning one-bedroom master suites 

recently refurbished by designer Álvaro 

Sans will set you back around €310 and for 

the kind of trip to Lanzarote once enjoyed 

by Omar Sharif, check into one of the 

super-luxurious, Bali-style garden villas, 

which have their own private parking, 

landscaped gardens and separate pool. 

Book at hotels.easyJet.com Jeroen Bergmans 


XXX | XXX 


XXX | XXX 


FUSION MUSIC | ISTANBUL 



Babylon wows its fans 

with its programme of 

folk/fusion/jazz and 

electronic bands, such 

as Kolektif I ˙ stanbul

PHOTOS © SERKAN TAYCAN 

ONSTAGE, ALEXANDER HACKE, a 

heavily moustachioed Berliner in a 

jumpsuit and sailor hat, is manning the 

DJ decks, a doll-like American woman 

is singing, there are two belly dancers, 

several Turkish musicians playing 

traditional instruments, and the stage 

effects include heavy-metal lighting and 

a strange black-and-white fi lm of a 

clown. The show is aptly named Ship 

of Fools and it’s just another night 

at Babylon, I ˙ stanbul’s most eclectic 

nightspot and the epicentre of the city’s 

anarchic music scene. 

Stretching from Taksim Square to 

Tünel is I ˙ stiklal Caddesi (Independence 

Avenue) the most popular shopping strip 

on the European side of I ˙ stanbul. Behind 

the main drag with its grand buildings 

and bland international chains, you’ll 

fi nd a network of lanes sheltering an 

alternative universe. Here hipster cafés, 

clubs, music venues like Babylon, and 

graffi ti art happily co-exist with more 

traditional backgammon boards and 

stray cats. I ˙ stanbul is a youthful city; its 

population hovers at just over 12 million 

and the average age is around 28. The 

number of teenagers alone suggests why 

I ˙ stanbul is undergoing one hell of 

a musical renaissance. 

BACK HOME IN Berlin, and presumably 

out of the jumpsuit, Alexander Hacke 

says: “I ˙ stanbul is in the hands of the 

young. Music in Turkey has a completely 

different weight and importance. The 

capital in particular consumes and 

cherishes it.” Hacke produced the fi lm 

score for the Turkish-German fi lm 

Head On and collaborated with its 

director Fatih Akin on the Turkish music 

documentary Crossing the Bridge. He 

is part of an international network of 

musicians collaborating with a new breed 

of Turkish artists. 

“Some cities get their time in the 

spotlight – in Berlin it was in the 1980s 

and with the new millennium, a window 

opened in I ˙ stanbul and things fell into 

place. [Geographically] it is aligned for a 

clash of cultures and progress happens 

because of the possibilities for friction 

between cultures. They feed on each 

other. It’s the opposite of purism – 

it’s not a monoculture.” 

At the epicentre of this anti-purism 

is Ahmet Ulu˘g, co-owner of three 

interconnected music businesses in 

I ˙ stanbul, including Babylon nightclub 

and Doublemoon Records, an imprint 

that is to I ˙ stanbul’s fusion music 

scene what, say, Blue Note Records 

was to jazz. Citing I ˙ stanbul’s historic 

connections that stretch from the 

Mediterranean to China, Ahmet says: 

“I ˙ stanbul is at the centre of the world. 

This cosmopolitanism is what makes the 

sound of I ˙ stanbul unique. We are open to 

both the East and the West.” Founded in 

1998, Doublemoon Records “is dedicated 

to spreading the cultural tapestry that 

is the city’s sound around the world”. 

This means unlikely yet magicalsounding 

combinations ranging from 

Sufi -electronica to gypsy funk, oriental 

hip-hop and Anatolian blues. 

Many of I ˙ stanbul’s rising stars of 

fusion music are signed by Doublemoon, 

and its artists perform at Babylon 

alongside the best and most eclectic 

local musicians and their international 

collaborators. For visitors, Babylon 

“I THINK MY 

MUSIC TELLS 

THE STORY OF 

TURKEY AS 

A WHOLE” 


★ ISTANBUL’S 

FIVE FUSION 

CLASSICS 

★ Turkey’s Eminem 

“God punished hip-hop with me.” So 

goes a line by Ceza, Turkey’s answer to 

Eminem. Anyone who has struggled to 

pronounce the multi-syllabic Turkish 

word for “thank you” (tes˛ekkür ederim) 

without coming up for air will be in awe 

of his machine-gun staccato on Rapstar, 

the album that launched him. 

myspace.com/ceza 

★ Acoustic Meets Electronic 

Mercan Dede’s (pictured) album Su 

(Water) is the perfect choice for crossing 

from Europe to Asia in a ferry on the 

Bosphorus. mercandede.com 

★ Statements in Song 

Sung in her Kurdish mother-tongue, 

Aynur Dogˇan’s album Keçe Kurdan 

(Kurdish Girl) is a signpost in the struggle 

for democratic freedom in Turkey. It was 

a hit when released on label Kalan Müzik. 

myspace.com/aynurdoganfans 

★ Essential Collection 

The recent I ˙ stanbul Twilight compilation 

is a crash-course in Turkish fusion music, 

featuring tracks by the Taksim Trio, 

Burhan Öçal & Trakya All Stars, Baba 

Zula, the Orient Expressions and more. 

★ Ground-Breaking Documentary 

Crossing the Bridge: the Sound of 

I ˙ stanbul was a long-time dream for 

director Fatih Akin, but it wasn’t until he 

won a Golden Bear for Head On at the 

Berlin Film Festival that he could fund this 

remarkable music documentary. 



offers a crash course in I ˙ stanbul’s 

contemporary music scene and a chance 

for a really fun night out, and as one 

element in a symbiotic business model, it’s 

also a growing success. 

“The Turkish music scene is mainly 

dominated by Turkish pop and folk,” says 

Ahmet. “After 10 years, I can easily say 

that although Doublemoon is still a bit 

niche, audiences have grown a lot and they 

are no longer strangers to the music and 

instruments of the West. In the 1970s and 

80s, people looked down on Turkish music, 

but now people like Turkish music and 

what it has to offer.” 

Previously known as Byzantium and 

Constantinople, I ˙ stanbul is the original 

melting pot, home to ethnic Turkish, 

Kurdish, Armenian, Greek, Jewish 

and even Roma communities. But 


“IN ISTANBUL PROGRESS HAPPENS 

BECAUSE OF THE POSSIBILITIES 

FOR FRICTION BETWEEN CULTURES” 

cosmopolitanism isn’t without its troubles 

and even in recent history, musicians have 

been caught in the crossfi re. 

In 1991 I ˙ stanbul resident Hasan Saltik 

founded the record label Kalan Müzik 

dedicated to preserving and publishing 

music by Turkey’s minority groups. By 

1992 he was in court, where he narrowly 

escaped a jail sentence for releasing the 

album A Hopeful Spring in Kurdish, just 

one of the minority languages then banned 

by the Turkish government. Thanks in part 

to a decade of Saltik’s efforts those laws 

were eventually overturned, and today, 

government offi cials proudly distribute 

Saltik’s CDs to visiting dignitaries. 

Writing from his home on the 

Bosphorus, Mercan Dede, one of Turkey’s 

most successful fusion-musicians refl ects: 

“The democratisation process [here] has 

been very successful. Over the last 10 years 

many important steps have been taken 

to create a much more free, democratic 

and tolerant society. Also there is a new 

wave of understanding of our own roots 

connecting to a new identity.”

PHOTOS © SERKAN TAYCAN 

Mercan is emblematic of this new 

identity. The Sufi -electronica artist 

who combines Rumi teachings and DJ 

decks with performances from Whirling 

Dervishes and gypsy musicians and splits 

his time between I ˙ stanbul and Montreal, 

has a global fan base and has won 

numerous World Music accolades. 

“I think my music tells the story of 

Turkey as a whole. A meeting of both 

modern and ancient worlds in the same 

country makes Turkey a magical place. My 

music simply refl ects who I am, and where 

I come from. For me I ˙ stanbul is the city 

where angels and demons walk hand in 

hand, it is a city of contrasts.” 

This thinking led him to invite Ceza, 

a rap star from the Asian side of the city, 

to collaborate on the track I ˙ stanbul, an 

electronic reworking of a Turkish folk song 

on Mercan’s latest album 800. “With rap 

music you expect to hear some ‘Hey, yo!’ 

type lyrics. But Ceza writes something 

that is exceptionally poetic, with almost 

classical overtones, such as: ‘the Marmara 

Sea is a treble clef and every seagull is a 

single note.’” 

A track that combines East and West, 

the past and present, in a poetic package 

of unexpected contradictions could only 

mean one thing: I ˙ stanbul. 

Babylon, 3 S . ehbender Sokak, Tünel, 

Beyog˘lu, babylon.com.tr 

doublemoon.com.tr 

kalan.com 


Here, Kolektif I ˙ stanbul 

use various instruments 

to achieve their fusion 

sound, from this tuba, 

to Bulgarian bagpipes, 

an oboe and a Turkish 

lute; opposite, albums 

released by Ahmet Ulug˘’s 

Doublemoon Records 

Istanbul from three destinations. 



WHERE 

TO STAY IN 

ISTANBUL 

UNDER €50 

ANTIQUE HOTEL 

Stay at this budgetfriendly 

crash pad and 

you’ll be a short taxi ride 

from the burgeoning 

fusion scene of the city’s 

nightlife hub, Beyog˘lu. 

Doubles from €35, book 

at hotels.easyJet.com 

UNDER €100 

OTTOMAN PARK 

In the heart of 

Sultanahmet with its 

must-see sights, this 

luxury hotel is also close 

to popular nightspot 

Nardis Jazz Club. 



UNDER €200 

TOMTOM SUITES 

After you’ve soaked 

up the fusion vibe at 

Babylon, totter back 

to one of these luxury 

suites boasting 

bespoke comforts. 

From €180, book at 

hotels.easyJet.com

F 

S O U L 

O 

D WORDS 

PHOTO © TONY FRENCH 

With both Christmas 

and Hanukkah in 

December, houses of 

worship provide plenty 

of food for thought 

(and consumption) 

BARBARA CORNELL 

THERE ARE SOME secret, sacred places 

that stir the foodie’s soul, laying on 

foraged herbs, freshly picked fruit, forest 

game, home brews and heavenly wines 

for hungry travellers along the paths of 

righteousness. Best of all, meals served by 

religious establishments come wrapped 

in the mystical trappings of their spiritual 

settings. Whether it’s an iconic basilica, 

a mountaintop monastery, a Biblically 

inspired recipe or a crypt by candlelight, 

each location is steeped in its own 

history and lore. 

Emperor Constantine’s mother, Saint 

Helena, set a high standard for pilgrims in 

the fourth century when she set off to the 

Holy Land. High offi cials along her 

route laid out their best fare and fi nest 

hospitality, but where Helena paid the 

locals lavishly, today’s savvy food pilgrims 

can enjoy reasonable prices and even fi nd 

some real bargains.

DIVINE DINING | SACRED TASTES 

1 

LEAD US INTO TEMPTATION 

LONDON 

Most churches are into avoiding temptation, 

but St Paul’s Cathedral is bucking the trend 

– at least where its food is concerned. “How 

can we tempt you?” is the playfully devilish 

way the new restaurant in the vaulted crypt 

presents itself. 

A masterpiece by Sir Christopher Wren, 

St Paul’s dominates the busy fi nancial district 

from its perch near the Millennium Bridge. 

Its famous Whispering Gallery can transmit 

secret messages 32m across the base of the 

dome. But it’s no secret why news quickly 

spread when the cathedral’s restaurant 

opened in June. The ingredients are so fresh, 

it even has its own beehives at Regent’s Park. 

For the holiday season, The Restaurant 

at St Paul’s is sporting Victorian fi nery and 

serving a £20 (€22), two-course Divine 

Christmas Lunch. Main courses include 

traditional roast goose or gourmet offerings 

such as west Sussex pork belly with red 

cabbage and apple. There are signature 

Christmas cocktails and plum pudding. 

The Restaurant at St Paul’s, St Paul’s 

Churchyard, tel: +44 (0)20 7248 2469, 

restaurantatstpauls.co.uk 

2 

HEAVENLY FOOD, 

DOWN-TO-EARTH PRICES 

VENICE 

Give us this day our daily bread… oh, and 

serve it with a divine lunch in the heart of 

Venice for only €13. Don’t have a prayer? 

Think again. Your table’s waiting, courtesy 

of the priests who maintain La Serenissima’s 

dazzling St Mark’s Basilica. 

With a €400,000 investment, the 

Procuratoria Council’s priests converted an 

old aquarium into Alla Basilica restaurant. 

Its classic, low-priced Italian cuisine is aimed 

at religious visitors, St Mark’s priests and 

church lay workers. But anyone is welcome. 

The ideal location near St Mark’s Square 

is just past the famous Bridge of Sighs, 

tucked into an atmospheric passageway that 

Venetians consider a city street. The church’s 

presence is muted, aside from a small crucifi x. 

The old beamed ceiling at the entrance gives 

way to a bustling bar and dining area with 

pale yellow linens. 

The lunchtime chatter is almost all Italian. 

Mink coats and Gucci sunglasses mingle with 

plaid fl annel shirts and sturdy shoes. 

Of course, there are priests’ collars, too. 

Alla Basilica, Calle Albanesi, tel: +39 041 522 

0524. Lunch only 


3 

FROM THE ABBEY’S OWN FOREST 

COME GAME DISHES SUCH AS DEER 

GOULASH WITH NOODLES 

FATHER JOHANNES’ FEASTS 

INNSBRUCK 

A Benedictine monk runs the Hotel Ludwig 

der Bayer restaurant on the grounds of the 

Abbey of Ettal. Father Johannes Bauer 

serves stick-to-your-ribs regional specialities 

such as roast pork in dark beer sauce with 

potato dumplings and cabbage. This month’s 

Christmas Market menu features goose and 

a dessert favourite combines cream pudding 

with the abbey’s own hay-and-herb liqueur. 

A variety of beers are brewed at the abbey. 

Fifty-two monks spanning four 

generations live at the abbey nestled in a 

narrow valley between forests and meadows. 

Considered a fi ne specimen of German 

baroque architecture, the abbey dates from 

1330 and became one of the 18th century’s 

most important Alpine monasteries. The Age 

of Chivalry is dead, so no need for the former 

Knights’ Academy. But the monks still run a 

school for about 420 students. 

The restaurant’s welcoming interior is 

trimmed in Bavarian dark wood. The monks’ 

hotel also offers an indoor pool and sauna. 

In winter, scenic cross-country trails help 

skiers build up an appetite. 

Ettal Abbey Hotel Ludwig der Bayer, 10–12 

Kaiser Ludwig Platz, Ettal/Oberbayern, 

tel: +49 (0)88 22 9150, kloster-ettal.de

PHOTOS © TONY FRENCH, JOHN FASS 

4 


Café Below dessert; 

St Mary-le-Bow’s crypt 

restaurant; Hotel Ludwig 

tasting plate; Alla 

Basilica; Ettal Abbey; 

previous spread, The 

Restaurant at St Paul’s 

GASTRONOMIC TIME TRAVEL 

TEL AVIV 

Craving what David was bringing his 

brothers when he stopped to slay Goliath? 

Head to the Eucalyptus Restaurant in 

Jerusalem for smoked, cracked green 

wheat, which chef Moshe Basson serves 

with dishes such as lamb shank and fava 

beans. The Eucalyptus is not a religiousrun 

establishment, but qualifi es because its 

unique speciality is gourmet Bible food. 

An internationally acclaimed food 

historian and chef, Moshe blends ancient 

history with Biblical ingredients such as 

herbs and greens foraged from the Judean 

hills, mushrooms hunted in secret troves 

and even organic lemons from customers’ 

gardens. His inspirations are endless: sacred 

texts, Palestinian friends and, of course, his 

Jewish mother. 

Having recently moved to a bigger space 

in the artist colony, Eucalyptus is now a 

10-minute stroll from the Jaffa Gate. It still 

serves famous vegetarian and meat fare, but 

a new café offers kosher dairy innovations. 

Catch the sunset from rooftop seating. 

The restaurant has big plans for the 

coming months, too, including a Bible deli 

and a cookbook so you can enjoy Basson’s 

Bible food at home. 

The Eucalyptus Restaurant, 14 Hativat 

Yerushalayim Street, Jerusalem, tel: + 972 

(0)26 244 331, the-eucalyptus.com 

5 

GOD’S COUNTRY AT TABLESIDE 

VIENNA 

Monks aren’t the only ones with a view so 

beautiful that UNESCO made the valley 

a World Heritage Site. From high atop 

Göttweig Mountain near Krems in Lower 

DIVINE DINING | SACRED TASTES 

Austria, the restaurant at Göttweig Abbey 

overlooks the Danube’s Wachau Valley. The 

food, too, can make diners feel on top of 

the world. From the Benedictine abbey’s 

own forest come game dishes such as deer 

goulash with spätzle noodles. The menu also 

offers variations on seasonal themes, such 

as springtime asparagus with new potatoes 

in hollandaise sauce. August produces 

the region’s famous Marillen apricots and 

Advent week features glühwein with roasted 

chestnuts. The abbey’s vineyards have 

produced grapes for 900 years. 

The massive 18th-century baroque 

monastery is 60km from Vienna by car, or 

diners can make room for extra calories by 

taking the Passau-Vienna bike trail. 

Stiftsrestaurant Göttweig, tel. +43 (0) 2732 

85581 225, stiftsrestaurant.at 

6 

CANDLELIGHT IN THE CRYPT 

LONDON 

It’s said that true Cockneys must be born 

within earshot of the bells of St Mary-le-Bow. 

Luckily, food lovers can be born anywhere 

to enjoy farm-fresh meals in the church’s 

crypt. The only requirement is to come with a 

hearty appetite for breakfast, lunch or supper. 

The crypt, a former burial chamber, has 

been an atmospheric eatery in London’s 

Cheapside for 20 years and still serves 

vegetarian and vegan fare. But this October 

it started a new life as the Café Below, with 

extended hours and an expanded menu that 

features goodies such as bacon, sausage, 

cider and dairy products direct from the 

agricultural heartland of Herefordshire. 

But the food is only half the story. Every 

evening, the romantic nooks and crannies 

between the arches take on the glow of 

candlelight. On the way out, stop at the 

church’s Christmas shop to buy some Peace 

Oil, extra virgin olive oil produced in peaceful 

cooperation by Jews, Arabs, Bedouins and 

Druze. Profi ts support peace projects in the 

Middle East. 

Café Below, St Mary-le-Bow Church, 

Cheapside, tel: +44 (0)20 7329 0789, 

cafebelow.co.uk 

FURTHER READING 

Europe’s Monastery and Convent 

Guesthouses: A Pilgrim’s Travel Guide by 

Kevin Wright (£10.95/€12), published by 

Liguori Publications 


these cities from many destinations. 

Our insider guides start on page 111. 



There’s something not quite right 

about submerging yourself in icy cold 

water come the festive season, but Berlin 

ice swimming devotees believe the 

health benefi ts outweigh the discomfort 

WORDS ALISTAIR DUNCAN

ICE SWIMMING | BERLIN 


IT’S THE SEASON most closely associated 

with cosiness: a time for staying indoors, 

curling up in front of a fi re, a warm drink 

in hand. Christmas and New Year inspire 

homebound feelings for the vast majority 

of people in northern Europe, but there’s 

one group of eccentric individuals who see 

it as the perfect time to plunge themselves, 

stark naked, into freezing water. 

“You feel fresh and reborn,” says Andrej 

Barth, a member of the Berlin Seals, a 

group who go skinny dipping in Berlin’s 

Orankesee Lake during Germany’s winter 

months. “It’s a nice feeling. If it’s raining 

and windy, it’s not so pleasant, but if it’s 

sunny and cold, especially with some ice 

and snow about, you feel really refreshed.” 

On Christmas Day, New Year’s Day and 

the second Saturday of January, this zany 


crazy costumes fi t 

for a crazy event; 

last winter’s theme 

was Greek gods 

group of Berliners – known in German as 

Berliner Seehunde – hold widely attended 

mass swims in East Berlin, encouraging 

people to wear Santa Claus beards and 

hats, or at least themed costumes (last 

year it was Greek gods). These colourful 

jamborees that see hundreds of bathers 

wade into waters that hover perilously 

above zero degrees clad in little more than 

red bobble hats and synthetic beards are 

repeated across northern Europe; Holland, 

Finland and Scotland are all countries 

where famous Christmas Day and New 

Year’s Day swimming events are held. 

But for the Berlin Seals, a group of 

60 Berliners ranging in age from 10 to 

80, these events are the climax of several 

months’ submersion. The hardy swimmers 

meet at Orankesee Lake every Sunday 

PHOTOS © GETTY IMAGES

YOU HAVE TO GET USED TO IT. IF YOU 

JUST START IN DECEMBER, IT’S 

GOING TO BE PRETTY TRAUMATIC 

from September to April, allowing their 

bodies to acclimatise to the chilly waters. 

“The point is that you have to get used 

to it,” says Andrej. “If you just start in 

December, then it’s going to be pretty 

traumatic. We start in the autumn, when 

the water is 17 degrees or so. It then 

gradually gets colder, until in the depths 

of winter, the water is zero degrees or just 

half a degree, but of course it never gets 

colder than that. Even if the air has some 

10 degrees, which happens from time to 

time, and water feels much colder, the 

water always stops at zero.” 

The Berlin Seals were founded in 

1978, when lake swimming was a 

pastime that was actively encouraged by 

the German Democratic Republic. Since 

the reunifi cation of Germany, however, 

this eccentric hobby has continued partly 

on the grounds that it’s a fun, social 

activity (Andrej goes every week with his 

entire family – even his mother-in-law 

comes along for this bizarre, naked 


★ WHERE ELSE TO 

CHILL OUT ACROSS 

THE NETWORK 

Feeling brave enough to take the plunge? 

Try one of these festive swims: 

★ London The Peter Pan Christmas 

Day race takes place in Hyde Park’s 

Serpentine. You can only race if you have 

competed in the entire winter series, 

but that doesn’t stop you popping down 

to watch these lunatics plunge into icy 

waters at 9am on 25 December. 

serpentineswimmingclub.com 

★ Venice Hundreds of people gather 

at Lido di Venezia to celebrate the New 

Year with an annual swim. Following 

a Viennese waltz, the hardy Ibernisti 

swimmers take a dip in the sea before 

feasting on a typical combination of wine, 

lentils and sausage. turismovenezia.it 

★ Barcelona The fi rst day of the New 

Year is greeted in Barcelona with a swim 

off Sant Sebastià beach. You don’t have 

to register for the primer bany de l’any, 

but if you do, you get a hot shower in the 

club’s house afterwards. bcn.es 

★ The Hague Throngs of people fl ock 

to the Nieuwjaarsduik (New Year’s Dive) 

at the seaside district of Scheveningen. 

Up to 10,000 bathers take part, all clad in 

orange bobble hats. nieuwjaarsduik.nl 

★ Edinburgh The Loony Dook (pictured) 

takes place at the Firth of Forth at South 

Queensferry on 1 January. The event 

fi rst took place in 1987 when two friends 

decided to celebrate the New Year – and 

rid themselves of their hangovers – by 

diving into the freezing waters of the 

Forth. theloonydook.co.uk 



get-together) but also because it is believed 

to have health benefi ts. 

“You get your body used to heating up 

then cooling down; it’s the opposite of a 

sauna,” explains Andrej, who has been a 

member of the Berlin Seals since 1990. 

“You shock your body with a change in 

temperature. I haven’t been ill for a couple 

of years now. If I ever catch a cold, it’s gone 

after a couple of days.” 

Across northern Europe, many winter 

swimmers believe that plunging your body 

into freezing water helps ward off colds. 

There is also some evidence that it can 

boost your mood and exposure to very cold 

temperatures (cryotherapy) has been used 

to treat some forms of depression. 

But is it really safe to expose the body 

to such ridiculously cold temperatures? 


AFTER FIVE MINUTES IN VERY 

COLD CONDITIONS, HYPOTHERMIA 

AND FROSTBITE BECOME A THREAT 

Claims by enthusiasts such as the Berlin 

Seals that weekly baptisms in freezing 

water invigorate the body do, in fact, seem 

to be backed up by athletes. Professional 

sportspeople, such as marathon runner 

Paula Radcliffe and rugby star Jonny 

Wilkinson, take ice baths as part of their 

physiotherapy. Radcliffe, for example, 

describes going for a pre-race ice-bath 

on her website: “Athletes mix the ice 

and water depending on their appetite 

for discomfort. Some like it colder than 

others. I like it very cold.” Craig Smith, 

a professional physiotherapist who has 

worked with Lancashire County Cricket 

Club explains that “when you get into an 

ice bath for fi ve to 10 minutes, the icy cold 

water causes your blood vessels to tighten 

and drains the blood out of your legs. After 

10 minutes your legs feel cold and numb. IMAGES 

When Wilko gets out of the bath, his legs 

GETTY 

fi ll up with ‘new’ blood that invigorates 

© 

his muscles with oxygen to help the cells 

function better.” PHOTOS

Doctors are undecided about the medical 

benefi ts of dipping your body in icy water, 

but many accept the weight of anecdotal 

evidence that it makes you feel better. 

“There are no high-level scientifi c 

studies that say this is good for the body, 

but there is evidence from athletes,” says 

Dr Chris Bleakley, a physiotherapist at the 

University of Ulster. “The theory is... that 

cold causes a decrease in the size of blood 

vessels and heat causes an increase and this 

contrast creates a pumping mechanism, 

which increases blood fl ow to fl ush out the 

toxins in the area, a bit like massage. The 

other reason why athletes may do this is to 

stimulate the nerve endings.” 

Doctors generally advise, however, 

against swimming in very cold water if you 

suffer from heart disease or asthma (there 


The Berlin Seals build up 

to the big dip for months, 

acclimatising themselves to 

the near-freezing waters 

is, potentially, a risk of sudden death), plus 

you really shouldn’t stay in the water for 

more than fi ve minutes – after that, in very 

cold conditions, hypothermia and frostbite 

become a threat. 

Whatever the science, though, the fad 

for jumping into freezing water is growing 

in Berlin (new people join the Berlin Seals 

each year), as well as elsewhere in Europe. 

No wonder, when you hear its almost 

euphoric effect. “It cleanses the mind and 

helps me forget about work worries,” says 

Andrej Barth. “It really gets you hooked.” 

berliner-seehunde.de 

Berlin from 29 destinations. 



WHERE 

TO STAY 

IN BERLIN 

UNDER €50 

A&O HOSTEL 

FRIEDRICHSHAIN 

Stay at this simple 

hostel and save your 

euros for the trendy 

local bars after your icy 

dip in Orankesee Lake. 



UNDER €100 

KU’DAMM 101 

Defrost in this stylish 

hotel’s steam room 

before hitting Berlin’s 

premier shopping strip 

nearby for those lastminute 

Christmas gifts. 



UNDER €150 

ART’OTEL 

BERLIN MITTE 

A sub-zero dip in fancy 

dress will give you the 

energy to explore Mitte’s 

art galleries around this 

boutique hotel. Doubles 

from €125, book at 

hotels.easyJet.com

XXX | XXX 


XXX | XXX 


SNOWKITING | ZURICH 

SNOW-COVERED SILVAPLANA LAKE, 

in Engadin, St Moritz, Switzerland is fast 

becoming the destination of choice for 

winter thrill-seekers craving more out of 

their ski experience. It’s arguably the best 

place in Europe to try snowkiting, or skiing 

with the aid of a kite. This fast-paced, 

fusion sport uses powerful kites to pull 

skiers and snowboarders across snowcovered 

ground, along vast, fl at expanses 

or even uphill. It’s no wonder adrenaline 

junkies are attracted by the freestyle 

element – the impressive kites provide 

extra oomph for those experienced enough 

to tackle tricks and jumps. 

Snowkiting requires entirely different 

terrain to normal skiing, which is why you 


won’t see many of the vibrant, coloured 

kites punctuating the white backdrops of 

resorts in the Alps – the pistes in Europe 

don’t lend themselves to this sport. 

Silvaplana is ideal because of the lake’s 

frozen, fl at surface, and because the local 

Maloja wind helps zip kiters along or up 

steep slopes. The area also hosts the annual 

Kitestyle competition, held next year from 

4–6 March (snowkitetour.ch). 

You don’t need to be an experienced 

skier to have a go, though on my fi rst 

attempt, I found myself struggling just 

to get the tiny trainer kite up in the air 

– before I’d even put on my skis. My hopes 

of joining the somewhat exotic-sounding 

snowkiting safaris that see snowkiters 

crossing lakes and then traversing down 

into villages seemed impossible. 

Cajoled by a bunch of fanatical 

snowkiting friends, I had signed up for 

a day’s training with the Swiss Kitesurf 

School in Silvaplana (kitesailing.ch), one of 

the largest schools in the world. Beginners 

spend the fi rst two hours attempting 

to master the kite-fl ying technique 

before donning skis for an afternoon 

of snowkiting. The expert instructors 

run through the safety rules, teaching 

students how to judge the wind direction, 

how to start, drive and land the kite. A 

harness and bar gives the skier control 

over the kite, which requires only gentle 

movements; easier said than done.

“THOSE WHO WANT TO 

GO FASTER USE BIGGER 

KITES. EXPERTS REACH 

SPEEDS OF 60KMPH” 

After a few failed attempts at getting 

my kite to fl y in and out of the “wind 

window” – the downwind section I 

would be fl ying the kite in – the school’s 

manager Stefan Popprath gave me 

some advice: “With the wind coming 

from behind you, the kite is at its most 

powerful directly in front of you. It acts 

like a sail and moving your bar left or 

right decreases its power as it moves away 

from the wind. When the kite is strong 

you must lean back and press the skis 

fi rmly into the snow – then you’ll fi nd 

you can go really fast.” 

Come the afternoon, I was desperate 

to test out my new-found skills, even 

though I was anxious my skiing ability 

Safaris offer the 

ultimate snowkiting 

experience, taking 

advantage of both 

fl at and hilly terrain 

might not be up to scratch. Stefan 

assured me even basic intermediate skiers 

could quickly master snowkiting, which 

itself has different levels of profi ciency. 

“We recommend everyone starts out on 

skis fi rst,” he said. “Snowboarders have 

to be more advanced and able to do 

both regular and goofy [ride with both 

your right and left foot leading]. At the 

beginning, you start with a smaller kite 

so you don’t take the full power of the 

wind – you’ll probably get up to 10– 

20kmph. Those who want to go faster use 

bigger kites and get up to 30–40kmph. 

Experts reach speeds of 60kmph.” 

I was eager to know when I might 

be good enough to join the school’s 


★ SNOWKITING 

ACROSS OUR 

DESTINATIONS 

Do you think you have what it takes 

to try snowkiting? Here are our picks 

of the best schools in Europe. 

★ Swiss Snowkiting School 

GENEVA | MILAN 

In the middle of the Swiss Alps, Simplon 

Pass in Matterhornstate offers ideal 

conditions to learn snowkiting. The 

school’s courses in nearby Leukerbad 

are great for beginners, and advanced 

snowkiters should undertake the safari 

in the Val Formazza, Italy. 

snowkiting.ch 

★ Kiteschool Obertauer SALZBURG 

Expert training courses at this kite 

school are run by Anton Ully, a previous 

fi nalist in the Snowkite World Racing 

Championships. The school boasts 

fantastic freeride areas and good 

beginner zones, plus a snowkite park. 

kiteschule.at 

★ Fly Mountains GENEVA 

Learn to snowkite with Mont Blanc as a 

backdrop at Fly Mountains in the Petit 

Saint Bernard Pass, near La Rosière. 

It has a vast area – 50 hectares – and 

classes are in small groups with a 

maximum of four students per instructor. 

fl ymountainsnowkite.com 

★ Global X Team BASEL/MULHOUSE 

This extreme sports school in 

Schwenningen also offers kitesurfi ng and 

wakeboarding lessons. Its one or two-day 

courses include a super breakfast buffet 

to fuel up, plus theoretical and practical 

snowkiting exercises. 

globalxteam.com 



THE KITES PROVIDE 

EXTRA OOMPH FOR 

TACKLING TRICKS 

AND JUMPS 

Boarders eager to 

take it to the limit 

easily get hooked 

to snowkiting 

safari tours and Stefan assured me that if 

I practised daily, I could be on one by the 

end of the week. “Snowkiting can be picked 

up pretty quickly. A lot of people stick at it, 

as it’s an opportunity for something quieter 

and more peaceful than being on a busy ski 

slope in a large resort, which can involve 

lots of waiting and standing around during 

the high season. Here, we’re lucky to have 

so much space to explore while snowkiting. 

It’s really up to you how and where you 

want to do it.” 

I spent a fantastic afternoon learning 

how to go upwind and downwind, how to 

ski straight into the wind, how to change 

direction and how to turn around and go 

back on myself. At fi rst, I was rattled as a 

number of snowkiters that were obviously 

much better than me zoomed past, but 

once a handful of small children casually 

overtook me, I was determined to put 

everything Stefan had taught me into 

practice. The fi rst few goes I managed to 


lurch forward, only to crash the kite back 

down into the snow moments later. Then, 

all of a sudden, it all came together and 

I felt the kite moving into the middle of 

the wind window and, with a thrill, move 

quickly forward. 

I remembered Stefan’s advice to lean 

my body back (alien for skiers, who are 

taught to tilt their bodies forward into 

the mountain) and instantly I got the 

adrenaline-pumping sensation of feeling 

the skis gliding smoothly along beneath 

me, with only the sound of the wind 

whirling past my ears. While I zipped 

along gazing at the serene, stunning snowy 

backdrop of Silvaplana, I immediately 

realised why my friends had become 

hooked to such an exciting sport. 


Zürich and Milan from many 

destinations. Our guides start on page 

111. Book online at easyJet.com 

WHERE 

TO STAY IN 

ST MORITZ 

UNDER €100 

STILLE SPORTHOTEL 

Crash out at this cosy, 

affordable hotel on 

the shores of Sankt 

Moritzersee and head 

South to Silvaplana to 

take to the skies. 



UNDER €105 

HOTEL ZUR ALTEN 

BRAUEREI 

Ease away aches and 

pains after your off-piste 

aerial acrobatics at this 

basic hotel’s very own 

Turkish hammam. 



NEW SKI WEBSITE 

If you’re thinking of 

going skiing this winter 

but want to know the 

best deals, check out 

ski.easyJet.com which 

has everything you need 

to create the perfect ski 

trip package, from boot 

hire to accommodation.

oetztal.com 

soelden.com 

obergurgl.com 

The Peak of Tirol. 

“Obviously, with 210 km of 

slopes, skiing & snowboarding 

are Adelboden’s biggest 

draws during the winter, but 

we think you should feel 

every bit relaxed!” 

Nature provides the Ötztal with snow 

guarantee, its inhabitants created a holiday 

paradise. Among countless other alpine 

valleys the Ötztal is the one with the biggest 

number of highlights. More than 70 ski lifts, 

over 300 km of slopes beyond 3000 meters 

and a huge nordic skiing network for all 

ability levels. 

ÖTZTAL TOURISMUS 

6450 Sölden Austria T +43 (0) 57200 F +43 (0) 57200 201 

info@oetztal.com www.oetztal.com 

Dorfstrasse 7, 3715 Adelboden, Switzerland | T: +41 33 673 83 83 | E: info@thecambrianadelboden.com | www.thecambrianadelboden.com

PROMOTION 

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pistes run through three ski sites, all offering 

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are slopes suitable for all levels and standards. 

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THE LATEST ADDITION 

You can now enjoy ‘the Dome’ – a new 

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biking, kayaking, fi shing and paragliding... 

refreshing alternatives if you want to take a 

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DO NOT MISS OUT 

The new ‘Four Seasons’ Sledge Run, a 

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For more information please contact 

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infotourisme@monts-jura.com 

monts-jura.com 

Snowtime from the end of November to the beginning of May. 

Direct fl ights from London – Gatwick to Salzburg. 

Attractive package deals: 

Opening- and Christmas weeks: 20th of November until 26th of December 2009 

Sport weeks: 9th of January until 30th of January 2010 

TOURIST OFFICE OBERTAUERN, A-5562 Obertauern 161 

Phone: + 43 6456 7252, Fax: + 43 6456 7252 9 

E-mail: info@obertauern.com, www.obertauern.com 

Obertauern. 

Where snow is at home! 

www.obertauern.com 

Anz_156x105_EasyJet_OKT_RZ.indd 1 13.10.2009 15:38:37 Uhr

Continue the fun at 

The Snow Centre Hemel Hempstead 

on the best real snow this side of the Alps! 

Huge 160m x 32m main slope with 

two Poma button lifts 

Largest indoor lesson slope in the UK 

Recreational lift passes 

Freestyle sessions 

The EDGE CaféBar 

For more information call 

0845 258 9000 (local call rate) or visit 

www.thesnowcentre.com 

The Snow Centre, St. Albans Hill, 

Hemel Hempstead, Hertfordshire HP3 9NH

PROMOTION 

SKI FOR PLEASURE 

Swhoosh! Here we present some of the best ski destinations in Europe... 

Chamonix 

Mont Blanc FRANCE 

A real mountain town at the foot of Mont 

Blanc (4810m), Chamonix is so much more 

than a ski resort. It’s an authentic, historical 

alpine town with a lively and friendly 

atmosphere, which offers a wide choice of 

accommodation for all budgets. 

From December to May, it is a paradise 

for wintersports with over 470km of slopes 

accessible with the Mont-Blanc Unlimited 

Six-Day Pass, which covers the entire valley 

and offers an optional day’s skiing in Verbier, 

Switzerland and Courmayeur, Italy. Chamonix 

is also the perfect place for non-skiers, 

with fabulous shopping, culture, spas, fi ne 

restaurants and sightseeing excursions. 

They’re looking forward to your visit! 

www.chamonix.com 

Portes du Soleil 

– Torgon SWITZERLAND 

Only 75 minutes from Geneva Airport, 

this “Balcony over the Rhone valley” is 

the fi rst resort in the Portes du Soleil on 

Swiss territory. Torgon offers visitors 

breathtaking views of Lake Geneva and 

Mont Blanc. Ski fans have direct access 

to the 12 resorts linking the Portes du 

Soleil and it’s also a haven for free-riders. 

The beauty of the Alpine scenery 

will also put hikers under a spell. From 

Torgon, great itineraries wind through a 

magnifi cent, wild but safe environment. 

The secret valley of Savalène, which can 

only be reached with snow shoes or ski 

touring, is a prime example and truly 

rewarding for body and mind. 

Our internet site www.torgon.ch will give 

you the details of our special offers sleep 

& ski at €260 for 7 days! 

Torgon Tourisme: tel: +41 24 481 31 31 

email: tourisme@torgon.ch 

J.Helbig et Jean-Yves Vassalli /Portes du Soleil 

Serre Chevalier 

Vallée FRANCE 

Three hundred days of sunshine a year and 

skiing at heights of up to 2,830m make Serre 

Chevalier a year-round resort. Challenging 

off-piste runs and extensive natural terrain 

and Terrain Parks will keep snowboarders 

and advanced skiers entertained, while the 

35km of cross-country tracks along the valley 

are excellent for non-skiers. The region’s 13 

towns and villages also include Briançon, the 

highest city in the Alps and a UNESCO World 

Heritage Site. 

A €50 million investment is planned for 

the region’s ski infrastructure with considerable 

growth predicted to follow.

Brides-les-Bains FRANCE 

Skiing is no longer a luxury 

with Brides-les-Bains! 

The low cost resort of the 3 

Vallées (the largest ski area in 

the world), innovates again this 

year, the resort of Brides-les 

Bains will be launching the 

very fi rst French ski resort 

private sales website: www. 

hotbrideski.com with exclusive 

limited offers at rock bottom 

prices. Register now! 

Brides-les-Bains, which 

already offers prices 30% to 

50 % lower than other high 

altitude ski resorts, will sell this 

autumns exclusive offers in 

Vaujany delivers the best FRANCE 

Vaujany, situated less than 

one hour from Grenoble in the 

French Alps, is a wintersports 

resort that combines the charm 

of a real mountain village with 

the latest facilities. Vaujany 

is linked to the extraordinary 

ski area of Alpe d’Huez, with 

240km of slopes. The resort is 

perfect for leisure and high performance 

skiing, for beginners 

and experienced skiers alike. 

It’s an ideal family resort and 

has been awarded the quality 

limited quantities: every week, 

4 news offers, In Weekend, In 

Midweek or Week (From 19th 

December 09 till 17th April 10), 

In Hotel or Residence. 

4000 offers in total will be 

sold on line at bottom prices 

Want a preview? Logon to 

www.brideski.com, the 

online ski operator: fi nd the 

best accommodation, ski 

passes and ski equipment 

rental. Just a few clicks is all 

you need to organize your trip! 

Book one of our all-inclusive 

stays, available online and 

enjoy extra discounts. 

‘Charter Famille Plus Montagne’ 

label because it offers: 

★ Leisure centre with 

swimming pool, spa, sauna 

and hammam 

★ Ice rink 

★ Snow park; sledging strip 

inside the village 

★ Library 

★ Day care nursery. 

Vaujany has also been named 

best resort in the French Alps by 

Alpes Magazine. 

www.vaujany.com 

Les Carroz French Alps FRANCE 

The ski resort of Les Carroz is 

an authentic village at the heart 

of the French Alps. It’s very easy 

to access, as it’s located just 

10 minutes from the nearest 

motorway exit, only 45 minutes 

from Geneva. Come and ski the 

Grand Massif, and make the 

most of 265km of pistes, 80 lifts, 

fi ve linked resorts and some of 

Courmayeur Mont Blanc, 

Aosta Valley ITALY 

Located at the border of Italy, 

France and Switzerland, 

Courmayeur is the essence of 

the Italian Alps. A long tradition of 

tourism and mountaineering 

has given the resort a truly 

Alpine identity with cosmopolitan 

fl air - it’s both wild and welcoming, 

rugged and sophisticated. 

Enjoy spectacular views of 

Mont Blanc from Courmayeur’s 

100km of pistes suited to all types 

of skiers and snowboarders. A 

wide variety of easily accessible 

terrains and a modern lift system 

await expert skiers and freeriders, 

from the world famous Vallée 

PROMOTION 

the best snow coverage in 

Europe – not to mention one 

of the most stunning ski areas 

in the Alps. Among its treasures 

are a breathtaking 360º 

panorama with a fantastic view 

of Mont Blanc and the chance 

to ski back to the village 

throughout the winter. 

www.lescarroz.com 

Blanche to the undiscovered 

slopes of the Toula Glacier 

(3,462m), Arp, Youla and Val Veny. 

The south face of Mont Blanc is 

the freerider’s best kept secret. 

But Courmayeur isn’t just 

about skiing and adventure. 

This cosy ‘boutique’ resort is 

known for its attention to detail 

and a typically Italian sense of 

style. From the shopping in the 

town centre to the many 

gourmet restaurants on the 

slopes, to the silence of the Val 

Ferret, visitors can enjoy the 

ultimate Italian experience. 

www.courmayeur.it

PROMOTION 

SKI NEWS 

Get the edge on other snow bunnies with our handy ski news bulletin for easyJet 

destinations! Cool places to stay, what to do this season and much, much more… 

Première Neige 

SAINTE FOY 

Première Neige offers beautiful catered 

and self-catered chalets and apartments in 

the picturesque resort of Sainte Foy – only 

minutes from the resorts of Val d’Isere, 

Tignes and Les Arcs. 

Première Neige’s catered chalets are 

picked with luxury in mind. A dedicated 

chalet team will take care of all household 

duties and your chalet chef will delight you 

with delicious breakfasts, afternoon teas 

and gourmet dining. 

Première Neige’ self-catered chalets and 

apartments are chosen with the highest 

standards in mind. They’re spacious, well 

located and equipped with all you need for 

an unforgettable holiday in the mountains. 

With fi rst-class service and quality 

accommodation guaranteed you can 

tailor-make your holiday. There’s a fantastic 

crèche and nanny service available for all 

your childcare needs, airport and interresort 

transfers, daily bread and newspaper 

deliveries, and our unique concierge service 

to book your restaurants, off-piste guides, 

heli-skiing and more. 

You can fl y with easyJet to any of Sainte 

Foy’s local airports of Geneva, Lyon or 

Grenoble. So what are you waiting for? 

Tel: +44 (0)870 383 1000 

email: snow@premiere-neige.com, 

premiere-neige.com 

Santa Marina Arachova Resort & Spa NEAR ATHENS 

This elegant and sophisticated mountain 

spa retreat is situated in the picturesque 

village of Arachova, two hours from Athens 

airport. In winter there’s great skiing on 

the nearby slopes of Mount Parnassos, the 

most popular ski resort in Greece, as well 

as short excursions to the archaeological 

sites of Delphi. Or you can enjoy the pretty 

seaside villages nearby in summertime. 

The Resort has many treatment rooms 

and therapies, indoor swimming pool, 

gymnasium and indoor tennis court. The 

20 luxury designer suites and one private 

villa all offer panoramic views over Delphi 

and the breathtaking mountain ranges 

beyond. Rooms have been designed with 

luxurious furnishings and richly coloured 

fabrics, and all suites are equipped with 

traditional fi replaces, sophisticated 

bathrooms and the latest technology 

including DVD players, Playstations, 

Ski & Spa Hotel Maiensee AUSTRIA 

Located in the small hamlet of St Christoph, 

Hotel Maiensee offers door step access to 

the slopes of St Anton. The local quad chair 

lift located right next to the hotel takes you 

straight up into the impressive Arlberg ski 

area. The family Traxl are keen to welcome 

you into their elegant boutique style hotel 

where you will automatically feel at home. The 

Maiensee Team are there to lavish you with 

care and attention for your perfect stay in the 

Tirolean Alps. 

The cosy Tirolean “Stuben” all have 

welcoming, roaring fi re places. Our expert 

fl at-screen TVs and internet access. The 

two restaurants offer dining for all tastes, 

from traditional fondue to healthy snacks 

and local dishes and both, along with the 

bar and lounge, open onto a terrace with 

stunning panoramic views. 

Santa Marina Arachova Resort & Spa, tel: 

+30 22670 31954, fax: +30 22670 31955, 

email: ArachovaResort@santa-marina.gr, 

santa-marina.gr 

chefs offer creative international menus 

and exceptional Tirolean cuisine. Don’t 

miss the opportunity to select a special 

wine to accompany your meal from the 

extraordinary wine cellar, carved directly 

into the mountain side. The restaurant and 

sun terrace are also an ideal meeting point 

for lunch due to their location right on the 

slopes of St Christoph. You can also enjoy the 

ultimate spa experience at the hotel’s own 

“Astrumontis” spa - it’s the perfect place to 

relax and regenerate. Facilities include Finnish 

sauna, steam bath, whirlpool and fi tness 

room with the latest equipment. Treatments 

offered in the spa range from Ayurveda, to 

Aromacosmetics and classic massages. 

If you are seeking rest and relaxation and 

a place where peace is your priority, then 

the deluxe rooms are ideal. All rooms have 

a luxurious bathroom and facilities such as 

television, mini bar, direct dial telephone, safe, 

hair dryer, luxury bathrobes and balcony. 

Each room has individual Alpine décor which 

is light, refreshing and relaxing. 

Tel: +43 5446 2804, 

email: info@maiensee.com

Alpadze lou kra CHAMPOUSSIN SWITZERLAND 

This renovated, chalet-style hotel is located 

in the heart of the Portes du Soleil ski 

area in the centre of Champoussin village. 

The hotel offers accommodation for 120 

guests in a variety of rooms such as triples, 

and four- or fi ve-person duplex family 

rooms. There’s even a fl at let as well as 

the standard double rooms. Most of these 

rooms enjoy breathtaking views of the 

Dents du Midi mountain range. 

The Wellness Center, with sauna, 

hammam, indoor swimming pool and 

fi tness room, is the ideal place to relax after 

making the most of the 650km of pistes 

that connect 13 resorts throughout Portes 

du Soleil. 

For dinner, the hotel’s restaurant Le 

Carnotzet serves international cuisine, with 

Swiss and Italian specialties accompanied 

by a great Swiss wine list. Or you can head 

to La Linaigrette for the half-board dinner. 

Hotel l’Etable 

CROSETS SWITZERLAND 

Hotel l’Etable is nestled in the heart of the 

Portes du Soleil’s 12 ski resorts connected by 

209 ski lifts. With 650km of slopes between 

France and Switzerland, this is the biggest 

ski area in the Alps and has retained all of its 

charm and Savoyard traditions. 

The village of Crosets’ 1,700m altitude 

guarantees optimum conditions for snow 

throughout the season. In the very heart 

of Crosets, you’ll fi nd the charming l’Hotel 

Etable, a ski hotel complete with a chic, 

contemporary Alpine design. With only 16 

bedrooms and 1 suite, the staff is attentive 

in this intimate home from home. But you 

could also have the run of the whole hotel 

with friends or family for a week. The doubles, 

and the rooms for four, combine comfort and 

mod cons such as fl at-screen TVs and wi-fi 

and the duplex suite also includes a kitchen 

and fi replace. 

A few steps away from Hotel l’Etable, the 

In good weather you can take lunch on 

the terrace, or sip a hot chocolate or vin 

chaud there in the afternoon. There’s 

also a lounge-bar for afternoon snacks, 

appetisers and after-dinner liqueurs by the 

fi re, or meet fellow skiers for drinks in the 

après-ski bar Chez Joost, a log cabin with 

lively music. 

For those on business, there’s a fully 

equipped conference room with capacity for 

60, and the hotel is happy to organise group 

activities such as evening skiing, sledge 

rides, snow walking or guided ski tours. 

If you prefer to rent an apartment, 

Snowline Holland has a large range of units 

available from a simple studio apartment to 

the fi ve-room deluxe penthouse. 

Join us in Champoussin for an 

unforgettable winter experience. 

alpadze-loukra.com, 

royalalpageclub.com 

restaurant offers fi ne dining for all tastes, 

with local specialities and a wine list that 

showcases Valaisan wines- French and 

Italian vintages. In Crosets village itself, 

there’s everything you could need including 

a sports store, ski school and spa, plus bars, 

restaurants and shops. 

Special offer: 10% discount for a one- 

Hotel Beau-Site 

MORGINS 

PROMOTION 

A charming mountain hotel dating from the 

late 19th-century, the Beau-Site is still run 

by its founding family. Located in the small 

Swiss village of Morgins in the heart of the 

Portes du Soleil ski area, it is situated on a 

gentle slope just above the village centre, 

with lovely views. This is the oldest hotel in 

Morgins, a unique gem full of old-fashioned 

charm, authentic atmosphere and modern 

comfort. Close to the slopes and hiking trails, 

it is an ideal base for winter sports. 

Thanks to its traditional architecture 

and design, and an exceptional restaurant 

with a menu that emphasises local produce 

and wines, Beau-Site was recently selected 

by Swiss Tourism as one of the country’s 

“Typically Swiss” hotels. It was one of only 

200 hotels in Switzerland to be given this 

honour – and the only one in the Frenchspeaking 

part of the Valais region. 

beausite.net 

week stay for two, half-board, anytime 

between January 2 and February 6, 2010 

or between March 6 and April 30, 2010. 

Offer valid only for reservations made before 

December 31, 2009. Quote offer code ‘EZ12cattleshed’. 

Tel: +41 24 565 6555, email: info@hoteletable.ch, 

hotel-etable.ch

DIRECTORY | SKI 

MAJESTIC ABONDANCE / CHATEL 

www.chatel-realestate.com 

+33 450 73 57 10 

FIND YOUR PERFECT PROPERTY WITH US 

• Ski chalets in the Portes du Soleil 

• Villas on Lake Geneva 

• Team of multilingual licensed French agents 

• 20 years experience in secondary homes 

• Sales, rental and property management 

• Catering services available 

MAJESTIC MORZINE / LES GETS 

www.majestic-morzine.com 

+33 450 04 33 26 

MAJESTIC PRESTIGE EVIAN 

www.prestige-realestate.com 

+33 450 75 75 75

www.intersportrent.com 

INTERSPORT Rent - Europe’s No. 1 ski rental network 

Over 800 rent stores across Europe look forward to supplying you with: 

 

 

 

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DIRECTORY | SKI

BIG DEBATE | SWISS BANKING 

SHOULD 

SWISS BANKING 

LAWS BE 

OVERHAULED? 

YES 

SAYS IAN WYLIE 

I LOVE ZURICH. It’s one of my favourite 

European cities. But there’s an odious 

stench that lingers around the banking 

quarters of Zürich and Geneva, and it isn’t 

the Swiss cheese. Pecunia non olet – money 

has no smell – goes the Latin saying. But 

what really stinks is the willingness of 

Swiss bankers to turn a blind eye to the 

origins of the cash stashed in their vaults. 

Is Switzerland happy with its reputation 

as a place to put your money if you want to 

dodge taxes or hide criminal dealings? 

Swiss fi nancial institutions manage 

around €1.3 trillion – more than a quarter 

of all private foreign assets worldwide. 

Much of it has been put there because of 


the protection afforded by Swiss fi nancial 

confi dentiality laws, fi rst passed in 1934. 

Today, the cloak of secrecy still makes 

Swiss banks hugely attractive. Banking 

regulations have been the perfect vehicle 

for international tax evasion, which 

Swiss law does not consider a criminal 

offence. But why should the Swiss profi t 

from aiding foreign tax evaders? German 

tax dodgers alone have around €300bn 

stashed away in Swiss accounts, according 

to the German Tax Union. 

The US and European governments 

have had to pay a lot of money to whistle 

blowers so they would reveal the details 

of citizens who keep their money in Swiss 

banks instead of allowing it to be taxed 

locally. But tax authorities’ investigations 

should no longer end at the border. 

Account details from Switzerland should 

be made available via offi cial channels. 

Tiny tears in the veil of secrecy are 

beginning to appear. Earlier this year the 

Swiss government agreed to negotiate 

taxation agreements with a dozen 

countries to avoid being blacklisted as a tax 

haven by the Organisation for Economic 

Cooperation and Development. Countries 

such as Austria, Norway, Denmark and the 

US have hammered out deals already. 

But the small print of each treaty signed 

has been very different. In some, the 

Swiss have indicated they will hand over 

information only if a request complies with 

their own procedures. In others there is a 

“grandfather clause” that allows them to 

conceal all information about accounts or 

investments made with them in the past. 

If Switzerland thinks it can persist with 

a legal system that criminalises tax fraud 

but not tax evasion, it must be persuaded 

to change its laws. 

Swiss bankers say dirty money will only 

fl ow to other havens like the Caribbean 

and they worry that Switzerland’s fi nancial 

industry will no longer have a competitive 

advantage once secrecy is relaxed. “We will 

need to work harder for our money in the 

years to come,” said Boris Collardi, chief 

executive of Swiss bank Julius Bär, at a 

recent conference in Zürich. Two words, 

Mr Collardi. Hard cheese. 

Ian Wylie writes for The Financial 

Times and the Guardian

ILLUSTRATION © ROBERT HANSON II/EYECANDY.CO.UK 

NO 

SAYS ROSIE CARR 

LET’S GET ONE thing straight: not 

everyone who has a Swiss bank account 

is a drug-dealing money launderer or a 

dictator. But it’s always easier to build 

support for a crackdown on certain groups 

when you depict them as unsavoury. And 

so Swiss banks are routinely portrayed as 

hiding money for criminals and cheats, 

rather than hard-working business people 

fed up with handing over their money for 

someone else to spend. 

I don’t doubt there are some dubious 

people among the clients of Swiss banks. 

But that’s not the reason why governments 

are furious over laws that prevent them 

from discovering who’s been diverting 

money away from their control. Their 

determination to tear down the protection 

that Swiss banks offer is not driven by 

anger over moral issues. It’s not even driven 

by the lost tax. 

What it is about is control. Governments 

can’t bear the idea that their tax inspectors 

might hit a brick wall that stops them 

knowing exactly how much money we have 

and how much we earn from our savings 

and investments. What governments want 

is for us to meekly hand our money to the 

politicians who think they know best how 

to spend it. You see, governments have 

an insatiable appetite for tax. They need 

money to fund their long lists of grand 

schemes and lavish promises to loyal voters. 

But why wouldn’t high earners be 

indignant about the demands made 

on them? They already pay more tax 

than anyone else and in the wake of the 

economic crisis many countries have 

introduced special higher rates of tax for 

the highest earners. Clearly we all need to 

pay tax. Without that revenue, the state 

we live in could not afford to educate our 

children, look after the sick and the poor, 

BIG DEBATE | SWISS BANKING 

pay the police and armed forces, supply 

clean water and waste services, or build 

roads. But we must also be allowed to 

retain most of our income to spend how we 

choose. We are not the slaves of the state 

and we should not be treated as such. 

These so-called tax evaders and cheats 

already pay large amounts of tax, but 

the greed of the state knows no bounds. 

Look at Britain – under a high-spending, 

tax-loving Labour government, new laws 

force almost everyone to spill the beans on 

everyone else where income is concerned. 

Britain has also changed its tax laws so 

that its high earners will have to pay tax 

on every penny they earn – their tax-free 

allowance has been withdrawn entirely. No 

wonder governments are keen to end secret 

bank accounts when they give taxpayers 

incentives to hide their money! 

We should all pay tax, but no 

government has the right to trample 

over our right to privacy or to mug us at 

gunpoint in its unseemly haste to get its 

hands on our money. 

Rosie Carr is deputy editor of Investors 

Chronicle magazine 


PROPERTY | GERMANY 

BALTIC 

BOLTHOLES 

WORDS LAURA HENDERSON 

Germany’s Iron Curtain 

state of Mecklenburg is 

fi nally emerging from 

its Soviet past, with real 

estate top of the agenda 

LOCALS LIKE TO savour the moment in 

Mecklenburg, a habit that led Germany’s 

Iron Chancellor Otto von Bismarck to 

remark that the end of the world would 

arrive there a good hundred years later 

than anywhere else. It’s a way of life that 

has served this Baltic state well. Modernday 

interventions have, for the most part, 

passed it by. The 19th century saw the 

landed nobility, or Junkers, fi ghting the 

introduction of the railways and clamping 

down on business enterprise. More 

recently, the area’s fortunes have been 

stifl ed in more repressive ways, under 

post-World War II Soviet occupation. Now, 

with east-west borders fi nally torn down 

and Germany one again, the place is fi nally 

awakening from its blinkered slumber. 

“Like many eastern provinces, 

Mecklenburg has taken its cue from a 

heavily regenerated Berlin,” explains 

Thomas Lorenz of Exclusive Residences. 

Canal-side 

properties are 

a steal in upand-coming 

Mecklenburg 

“The country’s recent poor economic 

performance has meant the huge cost 

of integrating former communist states 

remains a work in progress, but the results 

to date are no less impressive.” Janet 

Küther of local property fi rm Küther 

Immobilien adds: “The area has all the 

essential holiday trappings, from historic 

towns and inland waterways to a beautiful 

stretch of coastline. Home-ownership 

rates are also some of the lowest in the 

country with property a good third cheaper 

than western states, which leaves huge 

opportunities for foreign buyers.” 

COCOONED BY NAVIGABLE waterways, 

Schwerin is proving a popular secondhome 

choice, with the city’s revamped old 

quarter – packed with art galleries and 

restaurants – attracting harried Berliners 

and other domestic holidaymakers, plus 

Danish, Spanish and British buyers. 

PHOTO © 4CORNERS

Lock-up-and-leave waterfront cottages 

can be picked up for €120,000, but it’s the 

city’s collection of state-owned castles and 

former Prussian manor houses that is fast 

becoming a focal point, with many put up 

for sale for as little as £50,000 (€54,616) 

by cash-strapped authorities unable to cope 

with the cost of upkeep. 

“Most were built during the 19th 

century by Prussian Junker landowners 

and confi scated after World War II by 

East Germany,” explains Stefan Wenzl, 

head of the local authority’s stately homes 

department, “but they’re not for everyone. 

Some buyers fi nd the vetting process 

‘rigorous’, with proof of funds to take 

on a restoration project required before 

sales negotiations even begin.” Targeted 

marketing has boosted interest lately, 

according to Kai Rocholl of local agency 

NDGA. “These are niche projects. A budget 

of €200,000 will get you a large manor 

home with outbuildings, but you can 

expect to shell out as much again on the 

renovation. Profi t margins, on completion 

can, however, top the €1m mark.” 

TWO HOURS’ DRIVE from Berlin and 

Hamburg are Lake Müritz’s affordable 

lakeside dream homes set along a 

waterfront that radiates the same intimate 

sophistication of Capri or Cap Ferrat. 

“It’s a peaceful spot,” says Linda Sheard, 

a freelance photographer from Devon 

who bought her two-bedroom, canal-side 

cottage for “a steal” in the nearby village 

of Grabau in 2007. “There are no holiday 

crowds, but the area’s still geared up for 

foreigners, with bi-lingual real estate fi rms. 

Three-to-four months worth of holiday lets 

a year is feasible, with management fees 

setting you back around 10%.” 

Otherwise, for those wanting to break 

free from tradition there’s the region’s 

fi rst integrated leisure and holiday 

resort. The extensive parkland retreat of 

Land Fleesensee by Condex group has 

an exclusive 60 bespoke homes on offer, 

ranging from €200,000–€700,000, 

surrounded by hectares of natural beauty. 


Hamburg from three destinations. 



PROPERTY | GERMANY 

★ THREE HOT MECKLENBURG PROPERTIES 

★ UNDER €15,000 

This traditional red-brick cottage built at 

the turn of the 20th century is the ideal 

renovation project. In Wendelstorf, near 

the capital Schwerin, it sits in 0.2ha and 

boasts several barns and outbuildings 

for conversion. Gardens surrounding the 

property have fi r trees and shrubbery 

beds, plus a private path leads directly to 

a large lake 300m away. Both the interior 

and exterior retain numerous original 

features including latticework beams and 

open brickwork. Available from €11,000 

through Property Source. Tel. +49 (0)30 

3675 0726, property-source.eu 

★ UNDER €150,000 

Stylish one-bedroom apartments are 

available in a choice of contemporary 

build styles in the grounds of Land 

Fleesensee, Germany’s fi rst fully 

integrated resort near Lake Müritz. 

Turnkey properties comprise living room, 

dining room, fi tted kitchen, bathroom 

and terrace or balcony. The resort is all 

about sports, recreation and wellness – in 

addition to horseriding and sailing, leisure 

amenities include fi ve championship golf 

courses and Germany’s biggest day spa. 

Available for €149,900 through Condex. 

Tel: +49 (0)30 8971 1203, fl eesensee.de 

★ UNDER €300,000 

A charming rural getaway just 30 

minutes from the picturesque harbour 

town of Waren, this traditional threebedroom 

family cottage has been 

renovated to a high standard and boasts 

a spacious downstairs living area, 

underfl oor heating in the bathrooms 

and a contemporary Shaker-style 

kitchen. The focal point of the garden is 

an ornamental pond with a shady patio 

area leading directly from the house for 

outside dining. Available for €250,000 

through Küther Immobilien. Tel: +49 

(0)38874 21741, kuether-immobilien.de

DIRECTORY | PROPERTY 

Classic Oakwork... ...Beautifully Finished 

+44 (0)1444 455 455 

www.oakmasters.co.uk 

(Ireland: www.oakmasters.ie) 

Today starts with: 

Him Her 

A round of golf on the 

Palheiro Golf course 

A walk around 

Palheiro Gardens 

Lunch at the Clubhouse 

Big game fishing on the Balancal 

Relaxing at Palheiro Spa 

A swim at the Village Forum 

Stay at home and appreciate the view 

Palheiro Estate, 

the only thing we can´t 

do for you is choose. 

Call or 

go online for 

our free brochure 

Structural or Cosmetic Oakwork 

- Sun Rooms and Garden Rooms 

- Traditional Oak Vaulted Roofs 

- Beam Layouts for ceilings 

- Bespoke Oak Framed Buildings 

- Garages and Outbuildings 

- Fireplace Beams and Lintels 

- Beam Casings for steel joists 

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Dar Souleïmane 

Villas de luxe à Taroudant 

(less than 1/2 hr away from Agadir airport) 

Villa à partir de 1.000.000dh 

avec surface minimale couverte : 123m 2 

Villa from £77,000 with an interior space of 123m 2 

Société Couleur de Miel 

Tél: +212 528 82 37 00 • GSM: +212 613372985 

www.darsouleimane.com 

Palheiro Estate, Madeira Island 

Located on a prime hilltop site overlooking 

Funchal, the Palheiro Estate is a multifaceted 

resort destination. Stay with us, either at the 

hotel Casa Velha do Palheiro, a member of 

Relais & Chateaux, or in the award winning 

Palheiro Village, or let the beautiful island of 

Madeira become a more important part of your 

life by investing in a home here. 

Freehold property prices from 325.000, 

Fractional property prices from 120.000. 

T. +351 291 794 015 · F. +351 291 794 022 

real.estate@palheiroestate.com 

www.palheiroestate.com 

Golf · Hotel · Spa · Restaurants · Gardens 

Big Game Fishing · Property Sales · Property Rentals

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PROMOTION 

NEW YEAR NEW YOU 

The New Year is always a great time to take stock. 

Time to refl ect on what we love about our lives – and 

what we’d like to change. Whether your goal is to get 

fi t, improve your health or looks, lose a few pounds or 

simply pamper yourself a little more, help is at hand. 

Check out our directory for tips and addresses, below. 

Vorkas Clinic 

The Vorkas Polyclinic in 

Larnaca, Cyprus, is perfect 

for low-cost eye surgery. 

Not only will you receive 

top quality treatment at 

affordable prices, but 

you also get to spend 

time recovering in sunny 

Larnaca. Visitors from the 

UK can rest assured that 

all clinicians at Vorkas 

speak fl uent English and 

are British- and German- 

trained. The clinic is 

Cyprus’ fi rst eye clinic 

to start Excimer Laser 

treatment for myopia and 

other refractive errors. 

It also has all the latest 

ophthalmic technology 

including fourth-generation 

VISX STAR S4 WaveScan 

guided procedures and 

the most advanced 

Phacoemulcifi cation 

equipment for cataract 

operations. The Vorkas 

Clinic’s price list is very 

reasonable with lower rates 

than half the UK’s clinics 

and its luxury rooms have 

very low monthly rates 

(currently £20 full board) 

so you can recover in style. 

Vorkas Polyclinic,, Larnaca, 

Cyprus, tel: +357 24 633 

621, fax: +357 24 631 370, 

email: vosimcon@cytanet. 

com.cy 

Aesthetic 

Plastic Surgery 

Centre 

Discuss your plastic surgery requirements 

with trusted plastic surgeon Dr Albert 

Urszán at Hungary’s Aesthetic Plastic 

Surgery Centre. Dr Urszán has 15 years’ 

experience in his fi eld. During a free 

consultation, patients are given full 

information on the procedures, results, and 

any risks. For more information see the 

website listed below. 

Aesthetic Centre, 4 Nógrádi str., 1125 

Budapest, tel: +36 20 946 5383, email: 

aesthetic@aesthetic.hu, aesthetic.hu 

Chrysovalantou 

Clinic 

Combine dental and medical treatment 

with a dream holiday in Cyprus. 

Chrysovalantou Clinic has been established 

for 28 years and offers high quality medical 

services and European standards of hygiene. 

The Clinic is a member of BUPA (Cyprus). It 

offers dental implants, oral and maxillofacial 

surgery, periodontal treatment, endodontic 

treatment, treatment of TMJ (Temporal 

Mandibular Joint Disorder) and oral precancerous 

lesions, prosthetic work, dental 

crowns, dental bridges, porcelain veneers, 

all ceramic crowns and teeth whitening. 

General anaesthetic is offered instead of 

local for patients with dental phobias. 

6 Ierou Lochou Street, Kapsalos 

Limassol 3082, Cyprus 

tel: +357 25339733 

fax: +357 96398575

Relaxen Sie in der 

VitaSol Therme 

Die Bäder der Kannewischer 

Collection sind ausgewählte, 

marktführende Thermen, die 

jeweils mit eigenständigem 

Charakter auf Gesundheit, 

Erholung und Wohlbefi nden 

der Gäste ausgerichtet sind. 

Besuchen Sie die VitaSol 

Therme in Bad Salzufl en. 

Hier erwartet Sie eine breite 

Vielfalt abwechslungsreicher 

Sole-Attraktionen. Lassen Sie 

sich bei Unterwassermusik 

im Intensivsolebecken treiben 

und genießen Sie das Gefühl 

der Schwerelosigkeit. In dieser 

entspannten Atmosphäre 

des neu gestalteten 

Thermenbereichs verfl iegt der 

Alltagsstress ganz von selbst. 

Neben einem vielfältigen 

Wellnessangebot, lockt der 

weitläufi ge SaunaPark mit 

fi nnischen Saunen. Die Salz-, 

Feuer- und Seesauna mit 

dem Naturbadeteich sind 

weitere idyllische Highlights, 

um genussvoll zu entspannen. 

Anschließend können Sie 

sich im KochWerk kulinarisch 

verwöhnen lassen. Mit allen 

Sinnen gesund genießen, 

der perfekte Weg zur 

vollkommenen Erholung. 

VitaSol Therme: Extersche 

Str. 42, 32105 Bad Salzufl en 

Tel. (05222) 80754-0, www. 

vitasol.de 

Besuchen Sie auch unsere 

Spreewald-Therme in der Nähe 

von Berlin: 

Spreewald Therme, 

Ringchaussee 152 

03096 Burg (Spreewald), 

tel. (035603) 18 85-0 

spreewald-therme.de 

Royal Artemis 

Medical Centre 

The Royal Artemis Medical 

Centre is located in a quiet 

residential area of Paphos, 

Cyprus, with easy access to 

the main tourist area. 

It offers 54 fully equipped, 

fi rst-class rooms; 24hour 

reception facilities; 

multilingual doctors and 

nurses, and ensures high 

standards of comfort. 

Furthermore, a public 

relations offi cer is always 

present to liaise between 

patients, families, doctors 

and insurance companies. A 

team of doctors is available 

24 hours for home visits and 

Einschlafen-aufwachen 

-schmerzfrei 

Auf Wunsch führen wir Zahnbehandlungen 

in der Praxis unter 

Aufsicht eines Anästhesisten 

in Dämmerschlaf durch. Für 

größere Versorgungen in Vollnarkose 

stehen Belegbetten im 

nahegelegenen Krankenhaus zur 

Verfügung. 

Neues Lächeln in 4 Tagen 

Das eigene Dentallabor im 

Haus mit 6 hochqualifi zierten 

Technikern macht eine wochengleiche 

Fertigstellung der neuen 

Zähne möglich. Auswärtige 

Patienten wohnen in dieser Zeit 

komfortabel und kostenlos in 

der Patientensuite. 

Keine Metalle-keine Allergien 

Zahnersatz fertigen wir 

metallfrei aus Zirkonoxid, so 

PROMOTION 

emergencies, and the centre 

also has fi ve state-of-the-art 

ambulances. The Centre has 

the following departments: 

internal medicine/pathology, 

cardiology, nephrology 

(kidney dialysis unit), surgery, 

orthopaedics, paediatrics, 

gynaecology, ophthalmology, 

neurology, ENT, dermatology, 

urology, microbiology, dental 

and x-ray. 

Pavlou Crineou Street, Paphos. 

Cyprus, tel: +357 26 961600, 

freephone: 8000ROYAL, fax: 

+35726 963670, email: info@ 

royalartemishospital.com, 

royalartemishospital.com 

Die „etwas andere“ 

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Implantologie 

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moderne Therapien bei Zahnimplantaten 

seit vielen Jahren 

unter Beweis. 

Privatpraxis 

Dr. Wolfgang Günnewig 

Hörder Rathausstr. 6 

D-44263 Dortmund 

tel: 0231 / 433679 

zahnarzt-dortmund.de

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help: blood pressure (RRP £15.49) is a 

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WORDS CELESTE NEILL-DUVOISIN 

A vintage design store 

spawns a revolutionary 

online system in up-andcoming 

Zürich-West 

ZURICH-WEST HAS been quietly evolving 

over the past 10 years into one of Europe’s 

most vibrant communities. In particular, 

the Kreis 5 district, which was once at the 

heart of the industrial revolution in Zürich, 

has recently gone through a radical change. 

Old factories have been transformed into 

buzzing nightclubs, better transport links 

are set to enhance the area’s loft-based 

residential appeal and a vast campus of 

arts – the Toni-Areal factory space – is due 

for completion next year. 

So the handful of astute, or perhaps 

just lucky, local entrepreneurs that set up 

commercial businesses in the early days of 

the area’s transformation are now starting 

to reap the rewards of regeneration. One 

such business is Bogen 33, a shop that 

specialises in mid-century modern 

furniture. Hidden underneath an old 

warehouse, its tunnel-like rooms are 

crammed with sofas, chairs, tables and 

lighting from this eclectic era. It is also 

home to a fl edgling, inspiring software 

company, BWare, which, alongside its 29year-old 

Zürich-born owner, Fabio Dubler, 

perfectly represents this new forwardthinking 

Swiss business generation. 

Dubler fi rst set up the store in Zürich- 

West in 2003 when the area was still 

ignored by most of the city. He and his 

friends were unknowingly part of a 

renegade cultural community attracted by 

BUSINESS | ZURICH INTERIORS 

Fabio Dubler’s business 

has grown organically 

out of an interest in 

20th-century design 

the area’s empty, cheap warehouse spaces. 

When he took out a lease on an old railway 

viaduct, Dubler’s fi rst thought was to use it 

as a half shop/half hangout. Friends who 

helped were supplemented by all-night 

parties, perhaps a little inspired by their 

close location at that time to a blossoming, 

and somewhat wild nightlife scene. 

ONE FRIEND RANDOMLY suggested they 

sell old furniture and so, using his wages 

from his job as an assistant in a nearby art 

gallery, Dubler spent all his spare time and 

money fi lling the viaduct with any old brica-brac 

he could get his hands on. “I had so 

little money to build the shop that I used 

to go to building sites and collect scraps of 

wood lying around,” he explains. “I then 

spent loads of time in the Brockenhaus 

(an indoor market that sells furniture 

from old house sales), buying the things 

I thought looked nice, fi lling the van up 

with them and storing any extra pieces at a 

friend’s apartment. There really was no big 

business plan. It was very organic.” 

But as the rental agreement on the 

viaduct ended, and Dubler started to 

realise he had an eye for good design, he 

quickly lost interest in partying and turned 

his growing passion into a business. He 

relocated to his current premises, handily 

located next to hip Swiss accessory brand 

Freitag, which gave him access to 


BUSINESS | ZURICH INTERIORS 

passing trade. At the same time, he secured 

a vast but cheap space for storage and 

built up strong relationships with private 

dealers, securing a much higher level of 

sought-after design objects. 

An essential step to making the business 

a success was the need to provide a top-rate 

service. So he focused on fi nding out what 

his customers wanted, and how to make 

sure they were informed when he found it 

for them. Within six months, he had nearly 

600 search orders. After a diffi cult parting 

with a business partner, Dubler struggled 

to give the shop a structure that would 

enable it to grow rather than just exist on a 

daily basis. “The biggest change came from 

developing a database that fi nally enabled 

me to control and handle the business. 

I hadn’t found any system that really 

fi tted with what I wanted, so in the end I 

invested nearly CHF100,000 (€65,900) 

and built my own one,” he explains. The 

shop’s sales potential tripled thanks to his 

website database development. “We could 

now reach clients all over Switzerland.” 

BWARE IS A remarkable online content 

management system. It’s a database, it 

can track client orders and even predict 

what the customer might be interested in 

purchasing in the future, by recommending 

and informing customers of new stock. In 

this diffi cult economic climate, a successful 

business needs to be more than just a 

bright idea and have a desirable location 

in an up-and-coming area. Dubler has 

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“I CAN BE 

ANYWHERE AND 

HAVE MY ENTIRE 

SHOP WITH ME” 

cottoned on to this, and responded by 

creating an application that has keyed 

into the blossoming trend for managing 

businesses online. 

“What BWare does is connect between 

the virtual and the real business through 

the internet and it’s the exchange between 

the two which makes trade really optimal 

for a shop such as ourselves. Normally 

companies have different applications for 

each area, but BWare brings it all together,” 

explains Dubler. 

★ E-pens Mobile Notes 

This über-intuitive pen 

is designed to capture 

handwritten notes and 

convert them into typed 

text in a computer 

document. The pen 

contains ink, so you can 

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written before plugging 

it in to your PC or laptop 

via USB to upload. 

£89.99, amazon.co.uk 

“It has transformed how we sell. Now, a lot 

of orders go out instantly via the website 

and the system is automatically updated 

– all work that would normally take up a lot 

of time. It makes a huge difference to sales: 

we are no longer restricted to just what 

we can sell from the shop itself. It keeps 

everything under control and with BWare 

I can be anywhere and I have my entire 

shop with me. It’s my virtual company!” 

BWare is such a versatile product that it 

can be adjusted and adapted to meet the 

needs of any type of business, not just 

shops. “No installation is needed and 

it can be accessed from anywhere via 

the internet. It’s easy for individuals to 

manage their pictures, text, sales, customer 

database and newsletters via it. It totally 

optimises the daily work of any kind 

and scale of company, from individuals 

working freelance to large companies.” 

Dubler is constantly on the look-out for 

ways to perfect and hone the application. 

In response to current commercial and 

popular trends, he’s also working on an 

iPhone application “so your business can 

literally be in your pocket”. 

It seems that with Bogen33 going from 

strength to strength, Dubler has his sights 

set on turning Bware into another success 

story: “I’m passionate about developing 

new projects. I like it when things are 

diffi cult or challenging – it’s how you learn 

quickly about business.” 

bware.ch/fi rma 

bogen33.ch 

★ HD Ultra Slim 

Camcorder 

Aspiring fi lmmakers 

needn’t worry about 

lugging a heavy 

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memory, can take stills, 

charges via USB and fi ts 

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iwantoneofthose.com 

★ USB TurboCharger 

Take Proporta’s USB 

charger wherever you 

go and stop your phone, 

game console or mp3 

player from running 

out of battery. This 

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will recharge your 

gadgets over and over. 

Available with 1200mAh 

or 3400mAh battery 

storage. From £24.95, 

proporta.com 

WORDS CLAIRE MARTIN

DIRECTORY | BUSINESS 

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AS SEEN ON 

DIRECTORY | BUSINESS 

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PLANNING YOUR TRIP 

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DESTINATION GUIDES A-Z 

Aberdeen UK 112 

NEW Agadir 

Morocco 

Alicante Spain 114 

Almeria Spain 

Amsterdam 115 

Netherlands 

Asturias Spain 

Athens Greece 116 

Barcelona Spain 

Bari Italy 118 

Basel/ 

Mulhouse/Freiburg 

Switzerland 

Bastia France 119 

Belfast UK 

Berlin Germany 120 

Biarritz France 

Bilbao Spain 122 

Birmingham UK 

Bordeaux France 123 

Bournemouth UK 

Brindisi Italy 124 

Bristol UK 

Brussels Belgium 126 

Bucharest 

Romania 

Budapest Hungary 127 

Cagliari Italy 

Casablanca 128 

Morocco 

Catania Italy 

Cologne Germany 130 

Copenhagen 

Denmark 

Dortmund 131 

Germany 

Dubrovnik Croatia 

NEW Düsseldorf 132 

Germany 

East Midlands UK 

Edinburgh UK 133 

Faro Portugal 

Fuerteventura 134 

Spain 

Geneva Switzerland 

Gibraltar 138 

UK Territory 

Glasgow UK 

Gran Canaria 139 

Spain 

Grenoble France 

Hamburg 140 

Germany 

Helsinki Finland 

Hurghada Egypt 142 

Innsbruck Austria 

Inverness UK 144 

DESTINATION GUIDES | A–Z 

Istanbul Turkey 

Jersey UK 145 

Krakow Poland 

Lamezia Italy 146 

Lanzarote Spain 

Larnaca Cyprus 148 

Lisbon Portugal 

Liverpool UK 149 

Ljubljana Slovenia 

London UK 150 

Lyon France 152 

Madeira Portugal 154 

Madrid Spain 

Majorca Spain 155 

Malaga Spain 

Malta Malta 156 

Manchester UK 

Marrakech 157 

Morocco 

Marseille France 

Milan Italy 158 

Montpellier 159 

France 

Munich Germany 

Murcia Spain 160 

Nantes France 

Naples Italy 161 

Newcastle UK 

Nice France 162 

OUR 

GUIDES 

ARE ALL 

UPDATED 

MONTHLY 

Olbia Italy 

Palermo Italy 164 

Paphos Cyprus 

Paris France 166 

Pisa Italy 168 

Porto Portugal 

Prague 170 

Czech Republic 

Rome Italy 

Salzburg Austria 171 

Sharm El Sheikh 172 

Egypt 

Sofi a Bulgaria 

Stockholm 173 

Sweden 

Tallinn Estonia 

Tangier Morocco 174 

NEW Tel Aviv 

Israel 

Tenerife South 176 

Spain 

Thessaloniki 

Greece 

Toulouse France 177 

Turin Italy 

Valencia Spain 178 

Venice Italy 

Vienna Austria 179 

Zurich Switzerland 


112 | DESTINATION GUIDES 

Aberdeen 

UK 

DIALLING CODE +44 

CURRENCY £ 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 

Visit the Europcar 

desk on arrival 

for special easyJet 

infl ight rates. 

Holiday Taxis 

(easyJet.holiday 

taxis.com) take you from 

home to the airport, then 

city or destination. 

TAXI 

The fare to the city 

centre is about £15. 

Up to three 

buses an hour 

go to the centre from 

5.05am–11.39pm 

Monday–Saturday 

and 10.05am– 

9.49pm on Sunday. 

Tickets: from £1.40. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 

Beautiful Mountain 

(11–13 Belmont Street, 

tel: 01224 645 353) 

Using only the best 

local ingredients, 

this restaurant 

produces great tasting, 

wholesome dishes. 

Open from Monday– 

Wednesday for lunch 

and Thursday–Saturday 

for evening meals. 

UP TO €30 

Restaurant 21 (21 

Market Street, tel: 

01224 212 224) This 

chic city restaurant is 

moments from bustling 

Union Street, and offers 

superb food, fi ne wine 

and friendly service. 

UP TO €50 Cock 

and Bull (Ellon Road, 

Blairton, Balmedie, tel: 

01358 743 249) With 

its low-beamed ceilings 

and cosy log fi re, this 

18th-century inn is the 

perfect setting for a 

delicious Sunday lunch. 

EXCLUSIVE 

The Silver Darling 

(Pocra Quay, North 

Pier, tel: 01224 576 

229) With fantastic 

sea views, The Silver 

Darling is widely 

considered to be one 

of the best restaurants 

in the city. The classic 

French menu is a 

triumph of exquisitely 

presented dishes, 

bursting with fl avour. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Musa 

(33 Exchange Street, 

tel: 01224 571 771) 

Musa offers a unique 

combination of food, 

art and music in a 

relaxed atmosphere. 

Discover open mic 

nights, video exhibitions 

and a good menu too. 

LIVE MUSIC Lemon 

Tree (5 West North 

Street, tel: 01224 641 

122) Since 1992 this 

venue has hosted some 

of the hottest up-andcoming 

rock bands to 

hit the UK music scene. 

It also has frequent live 

jazz sessions. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Babylon (9 Alford Place, 

tel: 01224 595 001) 

One of the city’s coolest 

nightspots, Babylon is 

an intimate, high-energy 

nightclub known for 

its friendly regulars, 

cool atmosphere and 

eclectic weekend vibe. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Parade boutique 

offers stylish alternatives 

to the high street. Find 

gorgeous shoes and 

accessories to liven up 

your winter wardrobe 

(30 Thistle Street, 

paradehome.co.uk). 

SEE Stand up dynamo 

Russell Howard brings 

his brand new arena 

tour to the AECC on 

18 December. Russell 

is known for his cheeky 

quick wit and has won 

national acclaim for his 

talent (aecc.co.uk). 

GO Delgatie Castle 

hosts the Victorian 

Christmas fair on 5–6 

December. The castle is 

decked out in traditional 

Victorian decorations, 

the staff wear costumes 

and there are plenty 

of goodies to buy 

(delgatiecastle.com). 

ESCAPE On 

Christmas Day 1887, the 

fi rst whisky ran from the 

stills at the Glenfi ddich 

Distillery. It’s now 

known as the producer 

of one of the fi nest 

single malts around and 

well worth the hour’s 

trip to sample “the 

best dram in the valley” 

(Dufftown, Banffshire, 

glenfi ddich.com). 

NO WAY! 

The granite that 

was used to build 

Waterloo Bridge and 

the terraces of the 

Houses of Parliament 

in London was 

sourced in Aberdeen. 

Beverley Tricker 

Agadir 

Morocco 


CURRENCY MAD 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI 

A taxi to the centre 

costs between 

MAD150–MAD200. 

Route 22 to 

Inezgane runs 

every 40 minutes. 

Tickets: MAD4. From 

Inezgane, there are 

several buses to Agadir. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Brahim’s 

(23–24 Porte du Port) 

For fresh fi sh and a true 

Moroccan experience, 

head to this fi sh stall by 

the entrance to the port. 

You may have to ask to 

fi nd it, but it’s worth it. 

UP TO €30 Miso 

(Hotel Tafoukt Complex, 

Boulevard 20 Août) 

Listen to the waves 

breaking while you 

tickle your taste buds 

with the subtle blend of 

spices of the delicate 

Thai food at Miso. 

UP TO €50 Little 

Italy (Boulevard Hassan 

II, tel: 052 882 0039) 

AMSTERDAM A 

CITY TOUR 

Special S offer for all passengers! 

2 2 FOR 1 20,- ➜ 10,- 

(Bring ( this magazine with you for our 2 for 1 offer. 

This T offer is valid till Oct. 31st 2010) 

This cosy restaurant is 

a family-run affair. The 

excellent Italian cuisine 

is augmented with a 

fi ne selection of wines, 

both local and Italian. 

EXCLUSIVE La 

Madrague (6 Marina 

M3–M4, tel: 052 884 

2424) With a prime 

location at the Marina 

alongside the yachts, 

this restaurant boasts 

a fi ne Mediterraneaninternational 

menu. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY La 

Fontaine (Complex Ait 

Souss, Avenue Hassan 

II, tel: 052 884 8340) 

This is a popular place 

– choose a sugary 

pastry and wash 

it down with mint tea. 

LIVE MUSIC Sphinx 

(Hotel Kenzi Europa, 

Boulevard 20 Août, tel: 

052 882 1212) Enjoy 

belly dancing and 

Moroccan music over 

a sweet shisha pipe. 

TIMOULAY 

HOTEL & SPA 

★ ★ ★ ★ ★ 

Expect a spacious 

room with a balcony, 

tiled fl ooring and 

decadent décor, 

all overlooking a 

picturesque pool 

fl anked by sun 

loungers at this hotel. 

Breakfast included. 


holidays.easyJet.com. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Dreams Nightclub 

(8 Bis Boulevard 

Tawada, tel: 052 

882 8331) With a 

new sliding roof, the 

terrace provides a cool 

ambience on a warm 

Moroccan night. Dance 

under the stars till 5am. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP You’ll be glad 

to get a break from 

haggling in the markets 

at Uniprix. It’s a great 

store where everything 

has a fi xed price 

(Boulevard Hassan II). 

SEE The Centre 

Artisanal Kasbat Souss 

in Bensergao, is 

a fi ve-minute taxi from 

Agadir. Observe the 

local artisans working 

leather, mosaic 

wood and earthenware. 

GO Climb aboard 

Agadir’s little train for an 

open-air tour of the city. 

The trains leave every 

40 minutes between 

9am–6pm. It starts at 

Boulevard 20 Août. 

ESCAPE Enjoy a minisafari 

over the Souss- 

Massa National Park 

sand dunes in a 4x4 

jeep. Dine in a real 

Berber village, go crosscountry 

through 

a banana plantation and 

complete the tour on 

a remote beach. 

NO WAY! 

Morocco produces the 

world’s most expensive 

spice – saffron. Each 

crocus fl ower is handpicked 

by Berber 

women – it takes 140 

fl owers to make a single 

gram of dried saffron. 

Anne Imisliou 

Tickets & Starting point: 34 Damrak - Amsterdam 

WWW.TOURSANDTICKETS.NL

A large choice 

of holidays 

under the stars 

Situated on the beach front of beautiful Agadir golden sandy 

beach, and just 1 Km away from the centre of this captivating city. 

You will find the perfect starting point to discover this magical 

destination: 

• The extraordinary four-star Iberostar Founty Beach. 

• This comfortable and welcoming hotel with Arab-Style 

décor is situated just 25 Km away from the airport. 

This is the perfect location for an exotic holiday with a partner 

or with your family. 

IBEROSTAR FOUNTY BEACH **** | Agadir, Morocco | founty.beach@iberostar.ma | iberostarfountybeach.com


Alicante 

Spain 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI The fare to the 

centre is about 

€15–€20. 

A direct service to 

Benidorm runs 


Tickets: €16 return. 

this top fi sh restaurant 

creates a homely 

atmosphere. The 

menu offers seafood 

specialities, which can 

be paired beautifully 

with one of the many 

bottles of wine. 

EXCLUSIVE La 

Chaca (5 Fanadix, 

Benissa, tel: 96 574 

7706) Located in 

a villa with views over 

pine-clad hills out to 

sea, this charming 

venue is renowned for 

its wine cellar. The fi ne 

menu offers treats such 

as calf’s liver with apple 

pickled in brandy. Open 

Wednesday–Sunday 

from 7pm. Book ahead. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Café 

Internacional (Levante 

Beach Promenade) Just 

the place to linger over 

a coffee or Spanish 

brandy as you watch the 

sun go down from this 

quaint setting. 

 

 

 

 

LIVE MUSIC 

Bentley’s Bar 

(Paichi Centre, Moraira) 

A buzzing spot for live 

music, Bentley’s Bar 

attracts a young crowd 

who fl ock to see the 

local bands that play 

regular gigs here. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Crazy Rabbit (367 

Puerto Bello, La Manga) 

Loud music, good drinks 

and a trendy, young 

clientèle keep this cafébar 

open till the early 

hours of the morning. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Benidorm’s 

Calle de Gambó is 

a pedestrian shopping 

area. Enjoy a coffee or 

a refreshing glass of 

wine at a roadside café 

in between forays to top 

fashion shops. 

SEE Head to coastal 

town Denia on 13 

December and enjoy the 

festival of Santa Lucia, 

where the locals spill out 

onto the streets in this 

traditional celebration. 

GO Take a stroll along 

Calpe’s Levante beach 

promenade, lined with 

cafés and restaurants, 

and take in the Roman 

fi sh farm carved out of 

solid rock and Roman 

baths. It may be a bit 

cold for a swim but it’s a 

stunning spot to explore. 

TAXI TAXI 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 El 

Flamenco (14 Calle San 

Francisco) A smart 

venue offering fi ne 

Spanish fare with great 

paella. Weekends see 

entertainment Spanishstyle 

with live music 

and dancers. 

UP TO €30 El Galeón 

(5 Paseo de la Estrellas, 

tel: 96 686 5454) 

A romantic setting with 

sunset views, dine from 

the excellent menu 

featuring international 

cuisine and fi ne wines. 

UP TO €50 Ca Toni 

(3 Calle Retor Llinares, 

Altea la Vella, tel: 96 584 

8437) The delicate cane 

furniture dotted around 

TERRA 

MÍTICA 

ESCAPE 

Benidorm’s famous 

theme park is open 

from 5–8 December 

and on Saturday 12th 

and 19th. It’s well 

worth a visit for 

a day full of fantastic 

rides, plus shops, 

shows and a 

great restaurant 

(terramiticapark.com). 

NO WAY! 

If you’re around at 

midnight on New Year’s 

Eve you’ll be expected 

to eat 12 grapes without 

pausing. If you don’t 

choke it’s meant to 

bring you good luck 

throughout the year! 

Danny Collins 

Almeria 

Spain 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 






centre costs 

€10.50–€13. 

Route 20 goes to 

the centre. It’s a 

30-minute journey. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Chele 

(44 Calle Canónigo 

Molina Alfonso, tel: 95 

023 1964) Pop in to this 

restaurant tucked away 

just off the main street. 

The tapas and fi sh 

dishes are the freshest 

you’ll fi nd in the city. 

UP TO €30 El Alcázar 

(2 Calle Tenor Iribarne, 

tel: 95 023 8995) The 

house speciality is 

frituras: stacks of tasty, 

small fried fi sh. But 

don’t let their size fool 

you, they’ll soon fi ll you 

up! The restaurant also 

serves delicious paella. 

UP TO €50 Casa 

Puga (7 Calle Jovellanos, 

tel: 95 023 1530) With 

more than 70 super 

 

 

 

tapas dishes – ranging 

from chunky meatballs 

to extravagant seafood 

– you don’t need 

a better reason to come 

to this fantastic longstanding 

restaurant. 

EXCLUSIVE Casa 

Miguel (Calle Correo, 

San José, tel: 95 038 

0027) Excellent fi sh 

restaurant located 

in quaint Cabo de 

Gata. Rich paellas, top 

seafood and a huge 

variety of fresh fi sh 

are served by friendly 

staff in sumptuous 

surroundings. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Bar Bahía 

de la Palma (Calle 

Mariana, tel: 95 025 

4507) Located in the 

city centre, Bar Bahía 

serves delicious snacks 

that are the perfect 

accompaniment to a 

glass of wine or sherry. 

LIVE MUSIC 

Basement Café 

(Avenida Mar y Cielo, 

Garrucha, tel: 95 046 

0353) Found under the 

Beer Emporium, there’s 

live entertainment at 

the weekend and a 

music variety club on 

alternate Tuesdays at 

this hip venue. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Amargo Sound Café 

(8 Plaza Marques de 

Heredía) This city centre 

bar is popular for a latenight 

drink. It’s packed 

out at the weekends 

with twentysomethings 

dancing to great tunes. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP The central 

market off Calle Aguilar 

de Campo is a bustling 

food market and an 

interesting place to stroll 

to see a real slice of life 

in Spain. Take refuge in 

one of the number of 

good-value restaurants 

around the market. 

SEE Top Spanish 

singer-songwriter 

Joaquin Sabina plays 

the Teatro Auditorio in 

Roquetas de Mar from 

8–9 December. Even if 

you can’t understand 

the lyrics, you’ll fi nd 

yourself trying to sing 

along anyway! (1 Plaza 

de la Constitución). 

GO The historic quarter 

begins at the Puerta 

de Purchena and runs 

down to the bustling 

port. In between there 

are colonnaded 

squares, a fortifi ed 

cathedral, centuriesold 

tapas bars and 

beautiful old buildings. 

ESCAPE The whitewashed 

hill town of 

Salobreña is 90 minutes 

away by car. The streets 

are almost vertical 

in places but they’re 

worth hiking up to see 

Andalucían houses and 

the Moorish fortress on 

top. From the castle 

there are stunning views 

over the Sierra Nevada 

mountains, and back 

down at sea level there 

are some atmospheric 

bars and reasonably 

priced restaurants. 

NO WAY! 

Out of around one 

million Britons who 

have homes in Spain, 

half of those live in 

Andalucía, which 

includes Almeria and 

the Costa del Sol. 

Dave Jones

Amsterdam 

Netherlands 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI 

The journey to 

the centre costs 

about €40. 

There are seven 

trains an hour from 

Schiphol airport to 

Centraal station. Tickets: 

€3.80 single. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Foodism 

(8 Oude Leliestraat, tel: 

020 427 5103) Nestled 

cosily between two 

picturesque canals, this 

funky place excels at 

freshly made salads and 

tasty sandwiches. 

UP TO €30 

De Struisvogel 

(312 Keizersgracht, 

tel: 020 423 3817) The 

name means ostrich, 

and that’s exactly what 

you’ll fi nd on the menu, 

alongside other organic 

meat at this rustic joint. 

UP TO €50 Fifteen 

(9 Jollemanhof, tel: 010 

714 7201) Jamie Oliver’s 

outpost has a luscious, 

warm glow. The 

restaurant propels 

youngsters towards 

culinary excellence – 

hearty fare rules here. 

EXCLUSIVE Vinkeles 

(384 Keizersgracht, tel: 

020 530 2010) Housed 

in a 17th-century bakery, 

chef Dennis Kuipers 

specialises in French 

cuisine with a twist. Try 

the coffee couscous. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Proust (4 

Noordermarkt, tel: 020 

623 9145) Proust is 

a trendy post-market 

pitstop, serving quality 

snacks, sandwiches and 

deliciously cold beer. 

LIVE MUSIC 

Melkweg (234A 

Lijnbaansgracht, tel: 

020 531 8181) Its name 

means milky way, and 

a galaxy of credible stars 

old and new fl ock to this 

hip, arty space set back 

from the hustle and 

bustle of the Leidseplein. 

PARK PLAZA 

VICTORIA 

★ ★ ★ ★ ★ 

A royal-looking 

exterior houses 

warm and friendly 

surroundings at the 

Park Plaza Victoria. 

Rooms are luxurious 

yet unpretentious with 

dark wood furnishings 

and a homely décor. 



LATE & LIVELY Flex 

Bar (1 Pazzanistraat, 

tel: 020 486 2123) 

Party all night in two 

cavernous spaces at 

Flex Bar, the go-to place 

for electronica music, 

attracting acclaimed 

international DJs. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP At this time of 

year, Dutch tradition 

dictates that you give 

loved ones a sweet 

bearing their fi rst 

initial. The beautiful, 

handmade letters at Van 

Soest are just the ticket 

(143 Utrechtsestraat). 

SEE Amsterdam’s 

annual Millionaire Fair is 

a luxury extravaganza 

for the rich and the 

wannabe-rich where 

you can indulge in 

diamond dog collars 

and other extravagant 

gifts (10–14 December, 

RAI, 22 Europaplein). 

GO Rising from the 

waters, the Openbare 

library is an architectural 

wonder, and the top 

fl oor boasts unique 

views across town. 

Students are currently 

away for Christmas, so 

you can enjoy having 

the run of the place (143 

Oosterdokskade, tel: 

020 523 0900, oba.nl). 

ESCAPE A 40-minute 

bike ride south takes you 

to Amstelveen, a town 

full of suburban thrills. 

Check out the art 

museum (CoBra) and 

Bijenkorf store. 

NO WAY! 

Amsterdam Schiphol 

Airport is 4.5m below 

sea level! 

Mark Smith 

Asturias 

Spain 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI 

The fare to Oviedo 

is about €53, Gijón 

€45 and Avilés €23. 

The Express bus 

runs hourly from 

6am–10pm (but not 

at 9pm) to Oviedo and 

Gijón; and every two 

hours on the weekend. 

Tickets: €6.15. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 La 

Iglesiona (34 Begoña, 

Gijón, tel: 985 354 231) 

This is a bustling central 

restaurant with rustic 

décor serving excellent 

value lunchtime 

specials, often including 

sirloin steak. 

UP TO €30 Casa 

Sagües (Barrio 

Valdelabarca, Arenas 

de Cabrales, tel: 985 

846 656) Savour hearty 

Asturian food in this 

rustic restaurant tucked 

in the foothills of the 

Picos de Europa. Try the 

warming fabada (bean 

DESTINATION GUIDES | 115 

stew) washed down 

with tasty local cider. 

UP TO €50 Asador 

La Bolera (355 Avenida 

Jardín Botánico, Gijón, 

tel: 984 193 422) 

A fun eatery in the leafy 

suburbs specialising 

in meat cooked on 

a wood-fi red barbecue. 

Try the suckling pig, 

tender lamb or fi sh 

of the day. 

EXCLUSIVE 

El Puerto (Paseo de 

Claudio Alvargonzález, 

Gijón, tel: 985 349 096) 

A smart restaurant 

overlooking the harbour 

gives attentive service, 

fantastic cuisine and an 

extensive wine list. The 

gourmet menu offers 

house specialities at 

a reasonable price and 

main course options 

includes both delicious 

meat and fi sh dishes. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY 

La Garamont 

(5 Covadonga, Gijón) 

Chill out with an aperitif 

on cool leather sofas 

in this new, trendy, 

retro-inspired bar just 

off Plaza San Miguel. 

LIVE MUSIC Savoy 

Drinks and Music 

(2 Pelayo, Gijón) Rub 

shoulders with a relaxed 

crowd of all ages and 

enjoy free live music on 

Thursdays–Saturdays 

starting at midnight and 

fi nishing late. 

LATE & LIVELY 

La Folixa Sound Club 

(6 Jacobo Olañeta, 

Gijón) There’s non-stop 

fun in this club near the 

beach, open till 6.30am. 

Resident DJs play pop, 

blues and soul. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP You can fi nd 

all kinds of superb 

Asturian food products 

at specialist shop 

Crivencar in central 

Oviedo. Choose from 

delicious cheese 

and cold meats 

(3 Melquiades Álvarez). 

SEE Get into the 

Christmas spirit and 

visit the life-size nativity 

scenes installed in the 

picturesque square 

in front of Oviedo’s 

impressive cathedral. 

It’s a yearly tradition 

which fascinates adults 

and children alike. 

GO The old fi sherman’s 

quarter of Cimadevilla 

near Gijón, has 

smartened up over 

recent years, but the 

narrow cobbled streets 

still maintain their 

original character 

and house numerous 

lively bars and 

restaurants as well 

as two small museums. 

ESCAPE The rugged 

Asturian coast is 

renowned for its 

breathtaking beauty, 

and the Playa del 

Silencio near Cudillero, 

voted as one of the top 

10 beaches in Spain, is 

ideal for those who want 

to get away from it all. 

The trip from Oviedo 

takes about 40 minutes. 

NO WAY! 

Bump into Woody Allen 

on Milicias Nacionales, 

off the Calle Uría, where 

there’s a statue of the 

director who picked up 

the prestigious ‘Principe 

de Asturias’ Arts award 

here in 2002. 

Karen Thomas


Athens 

Greece 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





The fare is about 

€35 to the centre. 

Proastiako and 

Metro line trains 

UP TO €50 

Respentza (24 

Evmolpidon Street, 

Gazi, tel: 210 341 4140) 

A smart fi sh restaurant 

in hip Gazi with a 

rooftop conservatory 

to show off amazing 

Acropolis views all 

the year round. 

EXCLUSIVE Nabucco 

(15 Themidos Street, 

Ekali, tel: 210 813 2020) 

Hidden amid a forest of 

pines, this minimalist 

restaurant is the venue 

of choice for executive 

types. The driving 

force is chef Dimitris 

Dimitriadis with his 

accomplished selection 

of post-modernist 

Mediterranean fare. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Rockwood 

(2 Vassilisis Irakliou 

Street, Museum, tel: 

210 823 0337) A classic 

American-style bar with 

a southern feel. It 

offers a selection of 

draft beers, bar food 

and has mainstream 

rock sounds playing in 

the background. 

LIVE MUSIC 

Half Note Jazz Club 

(17 Trivonianou Street, 

Mets, tel: 210 921 3360) 

This is a mecca for 

lovers of jazz, ethnic and 

world music. The line 

up is full of international 

stars and Mondays see 

half price entry. 

LATE & LIVELY Mad 

(53 Persefonis Street, 

Gazi, tel: 210 346 

2027) The haven of 

the indie rock scene in 

Athens, now at a brand 

new venue, expect a 

reliably good night with 

frequent live gigs. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Open-air street 

markets are a major 

feature of Athens life 

and worth investigating. 

Every district has its 

own fruit and veg 

market, where you can 

also pick up unlikely 

bargains such as 

clothes, jewellery and 

other sundry items. 

SEE Retrospective 

exhibitions of the 

artists Mark Amerika 

(Unrealtime) and Iran’s 

Y.Z. Kami (Beyond 

Silence) are on show at 

the National Museum 

of Contemporary Art 

throughout this month 

(EMST, 17–19 Rigillis 

Street, emst.gr). 

GO Apart from festive 

decorations and lights, 

the city of Athens lays 

on a host of free events 

and activities for young 

and old during the 

holiday season, 

including an ice skating 

rink by Zappion. 

ESCAPE The ski resort 

on Mount Parnassus 

makes a great day trip 

or weekend break, 

just two hours away 

from Athens. Be sure 

to stop at the nearby 

scenic village of 

Arachova for some 

après-ski refreshments. 

TAXI TAXI 

depart every 15–30 

minutes for the city 

centre. Tickets: €6 

single; €10 return. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Simply 

Burgers (38 Antinoros 

Street, Pagrati, tel: 210 

729 0007) A successful 

burger chain launched 

by a Greek-American 

duo seeking to recreate 

the authentic ‘Stateside’ 

experience. 

UP TO €30 Archeon 

Gefsis (22 Kodratou 

Street, Karaiskaki 

Square, tel: 210 523 

9661) Chow down like 

Socrates and Plato in 

this themed restaurant, 

which reconstructs 

scrumptious dishes of 

antiquity recreated after 

much careful research 

of ancient texts. 

NO WAY! 

Despite the huge tree 

that the Athens city 

hall erects in Syntagma 

Square each year, 

Christmas trees are 

actually very new to 

the country, the fi rst 

arriving in 1833 with 

the newly installed 

Bavarian monarchy. 

Eva Webster 

Barcelona 

Spain 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





A ride to the centre 

costs €20–€25. 

The Aerobus stops 

every six to 15 

minutes and heads to 

Plaça Catalunya. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Santa 

Marta (59 Grau i 

Torras) Sit by the 

beach and enjoy a tasty 

Italian salad, sandwich 

or pasta of the day at 

Santa Marta. 

UP TO €30 El Jardí 

(56 Carrer de l’Hospital, 

tel: 93 329 1550) Set in 

the verdant courtyard 

of the El Antic Hospital 

Santa Creu, El Jardí is 

a true oasis. Dine on 

Mediterranean fusion 

food and wash down 

with a delicious mojito. 

UP TO €50 Big Fish 

(9 Comercial, tel: 93 

268 1728) As the name 

suggests, this trendy yet 

cosy restaurant nestled 

away in the back streets 

of El Born only serves 

fi sh, from sushi to the 

fresh catch of the 

day. Try the grilled 

Palomós prawns. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Bar Zim 

(20 Carrer Daguería) 

This pint-sized bar is 

the brainchild of a local 

cheese trader, whose 

shop is next door. It 

offers a range of great 

wines and masses of 

Spanish cheese. Open 

6pm–10pm daily. 

LIVE MUSIC Palau 

de la Música Catalana 

(4–6 Carrer Palau de la 

Música, tel: 90 244 

2882) The city’s concert 

hall has a packed 

programme of classical 

music this month. On 

22 December, tenor 

Josep Carreras stars in 

the Christmas concert. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Jamsonik (116 Las 

Ramblas) The liveliest 

watering hole on Las 

EXCLUSIVE 

RESTAURANT 

Evo (144 Gran Vía, 

tel: 93 413 5030) 

Michelin-starred chef 

Santi Santamaría’s 

restaurant is located 

in a sci-fi pod. Try 

the nine-dish tasting 

menu, which includes 

baby squid with 

white asparagus, 

while enjoying the 

jaw-dropping view. 

Ramblas offers budgetprice 

cocktails to a 

young crowd, while DJs 

keep the mood buzzing. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP From 

1 December the streets 

around the cathedral are 

taken over with the Fira 

Santa Llúcia, the city’s 

Christmas market. Pick 

up beautiful craft items 

and unique decorations 

for your tree back home. 

SEE In December 

a giant nativity scene is 

built outside the city hall 

on Plaça Sant Jaume. A 

different artist, or group 

of artists, is called upon 

each year to design the 

phenomenon, resulting 

in a range of works from 

traditional to highly 

conceptual versions. 

GO Remind yourself 

of the true meaning of 

Christmas by visiting 

the city’s ancient 

churches. The oldest is 

Sant Pau del Camp, 

a Romanesque jewel, 

open Monday–Friday 

(101 Sant Pau). 

ESCAPE Take a walk in 

the woods at Collserola 

Natural Park. Hop off 

the train at Baixador de 

Vallvidrera (a 20minute 

ride) where 

there are picnic spots 

and sign-posted paths. 

NO WAY! 

Caganers, squatting, 

red-capped peasants 

shown ‘fertilising’ the 

ground, are regular 

nativity scene fi gurines. 

They’re supposedly 

a gesture inspired 

by Catalans’ innate 

connection to the earth. 

Suzanne Wales

Switzerland | July 17 – 24, 2010


Bari 

Italy 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI 


is €20–€25. 

Route 16 goes 

to the centre 

every 40–60 minutes. 


BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Pizzeria 

della Mamma (69 

Corso Benedetto Croce, 

tel: 080 542 3738) Here 

the name comes from 

Mamma and so do the 

recipes, which is why 

they’re all exceptional. 


Cecchina (31 Piazza 

Mercantile) This place 

has plenty of style and 

great food. The mixed 

antipasti platter offers 

a few fantastic twists on 

typical Pugliese cuisine. 

UP TO €50 Trattoria 

al Pescatore (6 Piazza 

Federico II di Svevia, 

tel: 080 523 7039) 

In the shadow of the 

impressive Castello 

Normanno Svevo, enjoy 

some of the fi nest 

fi sh dishes in town. 

The unpretentious 

atmosphere is a great 

place to simply relax 

with a glass of wine. 

EXCLUSIVE Donna 

Gina (5–9 Via Cala 

Porto, tel: 080 424 0914) 

Expect an unforgottable 

meal coupled with idyllic 

views. The fi sh dishes are 

superb and the wine list 

perfectly compliments 

the cuisine. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Kamera 

Kafe (Piazza Mercantile) 

This is a busy spot, ideal 

for people-watching. 

Sit back and relax with 

a glass of wine or a hot 

coffee to tackle the 

winter chills. 

LIVE MUSIC Santo 

Graal (4 Vicolo Santa 

Maria) You’ll receive a 

warm welcome and live 

music at this Irish pub. 

Enjoy a cocktail from 

the wide selection. 

SEMIRAMIDE 

PALACE 

★ ★ ★ ★ ★ 

You’ll feel right 

at home at this 

luxurious hotel 

with its relaxed 

atmosphere, two 

superb restaurants 

and a pool-side 

bar. Breakfast 

included. From €126, 

book at holidays. 

easyJet.com. 

Mulhouse © C Kohler 

LATE & LIVELY Caffè 

Borghese (122 Coros 

Vittorio Emanuele II) 

Open all day, come 

nightfall, this bar morphs 

into the place to be 

seen. It’s a fun spot for 

those who don’t fancy 

clubbing, but want to 

stay out till late. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Do a spot of 

Christmas shopping at 

the Murat City Centre. 

This vast shopping 

district is the largest 

in Puglia, so you can 

be sure you’ll fi nd 

everything you need. 

SEE From 6 December, 

head to Viale Luigi 

Einaudi for the 

Christmas market. You’ll 

fi nd everything from 

handcrafted fi gurines, 

cribs, delicious sweets 

and tasty local produce. 

GO Take time to visit the 

Basilica of San Nicola, 

dating back to the 11th 

century. Brimming with 

history, this impressive 

monument is one of the 

city’s fi nest attractions 

(Piazza San Nicola). 

ESCAPE The Lama 

Balice Nature Reserve 

covers nearly 125 

hectares and is home 

to a selection of wildlife. 

In winter it will be fairly 

quiet so you can enjoy 

a peaceful long walk. 

NO WAY! 

Pope Benedict XIII was 

from Puglia and reigned 

in the 18th century. 

His most popular edict 

was reversing the 

worldwide smoking ban, 

put in place by one of 

his predecessors. 

Max Keep 

Basel/ 

Mulhouse/ 

Freiburg 

Switzerland 


CURRENCY CHF 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI 

The fare to Basel is 

about CHF40 and 

Mulhouse €40. 

Route 50 takes 

you to Basel’s 

main train station in 

20 minutes. Tickets: 

CHF3.80. In France, 

shuttles go to the station 

in Saint-Louis for trains 

to Mulhouse. Tickets: €1. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Crêperie 

Bretonne Crampous 

Mad (14 Impasse des 

Tondeurs, Mulhouse, 

tel: 03 8945 7943) Step 

into this cute crêperie 

and you’ll feel like you’re 

in a fairytale. Stop by 

for dessert or try a 

delicious savoury crêpe. 

UP TO €30 Zic 

Zac Basel (355 

Baslerstrasse, Basel, tel: 

06 1302 1220) Spicy 

Navajo chicken, baked 

potatoes and spare ribs: 

if you’re hankering after 

some real American 

substance, Zic Zac’s is 

the place to go. There 

is a fantastic Sunday 

brunch menu too. 

UP TO €50 Sakura 

(14 Centralbahnstrasse, 

Basel, tel: 06 1272 

0505) Located in the 

main train station, 

Sakura is the most 

exciting, and expensive, 

Japanese venue in 

town. Teppanyaki chefs 

prepare excellent meals 

at your table, or you can 

opt for the sushi lunch. 

EXCLUSIVE Poste 

Kieny (7 Rue du 

Général De Gaulle, 

Riedisheim, tel: 03 

8944 0771) Several 

generations of the Kieny 

family have run this 

gorgeous restaurant. 

Expect Alsatian cuisine 

in all its glory, including 

succulent Alsatian 

veal and beef. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Eoipso 

(192 Dornacherstrasse, 

Basel, tel: 06 1333 

1490) Housed in an old 

factory complex, this 

is a big hip bar with 

Basel’s own Unser Bier 

on tap. Try to bag one of 

the cosy couches. 

LIVE MUSIC Kaserne 

(1B Klybeckstrasse, tel: 

06 1666 6000) Hear 

some of the best indie 

bands from Switzerland 

and further afi eld at the 

almost-nightly concerts 

at this venue, which 

boasts theatre and 

dance events too. 

LATE & LIVELY Jet 

7 Bar (2 bis Passage 

de l’Hôtel de Ville, 

Mulhouse, tel: 03 8956 

0421) Mulhouse isn’t 

famous for its nightlife, 

but Jet is an exception 

to the rule. It has an 

energetic atmosphere 

and also hosts live 

music nights. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP In December, 

every small pocket from 

Basel to Strasbourg has 

a Christmas market 

selling trinkets and 

treasures. Strasbourg 

has the biggest in 

Europe, Colmar’s is 

quaint and worth visiting 

in the evenings, and 

Basel’s is well-loved. 

SEE The Beyeler 

Museum in Riehen is 

home to the exhibition, 

Jenny Holzer. The 

American artist’s 

paintings and LED 

installations will be 

placed alongside 

Holzer’s favourite works 

from the Beyeler’s 

stunning permanent 

collection (beyeler.com). 

GO Place Rapp in 

Colmar is the place 

to go for an afternoon 

of ice skating. Skate 

under the shadow of the 

illuminated cathedral 

until 8pm daily. 

ESCAPE The stunning 

glacier and trails of 

Engelberg are just two 

hours away by train. 

Hire some skis and 

spend a day whizzing 

down the slopes. 

NO WAY! 

The custom of 

Christmas trees began 

in Alsace in 1521 – they 

were decorated with 

apples and dried roses, 

not tinsel and baubles. 

Richard Harvell 

CHRISTMAS TIME IN SOUTHERN ALSACE! 

Enter a magical world from Nov 24 to Dec 31 

Authentic Christmas Markets in Colmar, Mulhouse, 

Thann, Eguisheim...and other medieval villages. 

Fly to Mulhouse/Basel and enjoy the true Alsace Christmas spirit! 

Southern Alsace Tourist Board, France www.tourisme68.com

Bastia 

France 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI 

The fare to the 

centre is €40–€50. 

Catch the airport 

bus to the 

Préfecture. The journey 



BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 La Maison 

des Pizzas (Place du 

Monument, tel: 04 9537 

0852) A varied menu 

offers classic dishes 

and pizza recipes found 

only in Corsica. Expect 

a regional twist on the 

Italian staple. 

UP TO €30 Le 

Pressoir (Sortie Port de 

Commerce, tel: 04 9532 

3496) Le Pressoir’s 

menu has recently been 

widely expanded. In 

these rustic surrounds, 

dine on pork with a Cap 

Corse sauce, made from 

a traditional aperitif. 

UP TO €50 Le A (6 

Place de l’Hôtel de Ville, 

tel: 04 9555 1676) In 

a charming part of town 

expect refi ned cuisine 

– the lobster linguine 

and the fondant à la 

châtaigne (chestnut 

fondant) are so delicious 

they’ll have you coming 

back for more! 

EXCLUSIVE La Table 

du Marché (Place 

du Marché, tel: 04 

9531 6425) Routinely 

voted one of Bastia’s 

top restaurants, La 

Table du Marché offers 

refi ned seafood dishes 

alongside local wines. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Carlotti 

Salon de Thé (18 

Boulevard Paoli, tel: 

04 9531 6505) A very 

popular bakery-café 

and the perfect place to 

get in from the cold for 

a steamy hot chocolate. 

It’s a cosy little space 

with perfect pastries. 

LIVE MUSIC Pub 

Assunta (4 Rue 

Fontaine Neuve, tel: 04 

PLACE DU 

MARCHÉ 

GO Explore the 

Place de l’Hôtel 

de Ville, informally 

known as the Place 

du Marché at the 

weekends when 

a traditional market 

takes place. Be sure 

to check out the lifesize 

nativity scene on 

display throughout 

the month. 

9534 1140) One of 

Bastia’s only pubs 

consistently offering 

live music, beer by 

the bottle, and a cheap 

food menu. 

LATE & LIVELY 

L’Alba (Quai des 

Martyrs, tel: 04 9547 

0338) Open late and 

fi nishing even later, this 

venue is a perfect spot 

to round off a long night 

out. Dance till 2.30am 

to great tunes in a lively 

environment. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP For years now 

Les Grands Vins de 

Corse has offered the 

best of the island’s wines 

to its loyal customers, 

as well as other Corsican 

cheese and charcuterie 

products (24 rue 

César Campinchi). 

SEE From 10 

December–12 February, 

Una Volta Gallery 

presents a photo 

exhibition of the unique 

work of Georges Russe. 

See many pieces of the 

French photographer’s 

award-winning work. 

ESCAPE Corte, the 

18th-century capital 

and home of Corsica’s 

only university, is the 

starting point for brisk 

winter walks through 

Corsican countryside. 

The journey through the 

beautiful island takes 

around an hour. 

NO WAY! 

The town of Calvi 

proudly, and somewhat 

controversially, 

proclaims Christopher 

Columbus as their 

native son. 

Cara Straforelli 

Belfast 

UK 


CURRENCY £ 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI 


city centre is £25. 

Airport Express 

300 runs to the 

city centre every 15 

minutes during peak 

hours Monday–Friday 


BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Café Naz 

(393 Ormeau Road, tel: 

028 9064 8635) This 

recently opened, Indian 

restaurant is already 

gaining a reputation 

for good, inexpensive 

Asian food. It’s 

unlicensed but you can 

take your own drinks. 

UP TO €30 Café 

Renoir (93–95 

Botanic Avenue, tel: 

028 9031 1300) This 

café-restaurant located 

on a buzzing avenue 

is a perfect spot for 

breakfast, lunch or 

dinner. If you visit in 

the morning, try the 

scrumptious Ulster Fry. 


UP TO €50 Deanes 

Deli (44 Bedford Street, 

tel: 028 9024 8800) 

Owned by celebrity chef 

Michael Deane, this 

restaurant serves high 

quality food at relatively 

inexpensive prices, 

with the daily specials 

chalked up on the walls. 

EXCLUSIVE No. 27 

Talbot Street (27 

Talbot Street, tel: 028 

9031 2884) Tucked 

away in a quiet street at 

the Cathedral Quarter, 

this restaurant has 

gathered a strong 

reputation among 

Belfast foodies. You 

may have to book 

ahead at weekends. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY The Oak 

Lounge at the Errigle 

Inn (312–320 Ormeau 

Road, tel: 028 9064 

1410) Its oak panelling, 

absence of music and 

full waiter service makes 

this cosy bar the perfect 

spot for a quiet pint. 

LIVE MUSIC The 

Front Page (106–110 

Donegall Street, tel: 

028 9032 4924) Catch 

a live band in this great 

venue – expect to hear 

anything from country 

rock to death metal. 

The bar downstairs is 

also a good spot for 

a pre-gig pint. 

LATE & LIVELY The 

Cloth Ear (35–39 

Waring Street, tel: 028 

9023 4888) This bar is 

housed in the swanky 

Merchant Hotel. It 

attracts a good mix of 

locals and tourists, who 

are all well-dressed and 

stay till late, enjoying fi ne 

beers and good food. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP If you are in 

the market for some 

designer clobber you 

could do a lot worse 

than check out Carter. 

It’s probably the safest 

bet in town to fi ll your 

Christmas stocking with 

designer brands (11 

Upper Queen Street). 

SEE The Christmas 

Continental Market 

runs until 19 December 

and is located in the 

beautiful grounds of 

the City Hall, right in 

the city centre. It’s been 

a huge success for 

years with several bars 

and numerous food 

stalls, selling weird and 

wonderful treats. 

GO North Belfast is 

often overlooked by 

tourists, but it’s home 

to some of the city’s 

most beautiful Victorian 

architecture. Belfast 

Castle is a fantastic 

spot for lunch or dinner 

followed by a walk up 

Cave Hill for a great 

view of the city. 

ESCAPE The coastal 

drive north from the 

town of Larne up to 

the Giant’s Causeway, 

along Antrim Coast, 

must surely be one of 

the most spectacular 

drives in Europe. Stop 

off for lunch at the 

Londonderry Arms 

in Carnlough. 

NO WAY! 

Belfast has been the 

source of many great 

inventions. What would 

the world be like without 

milk of Magnesia 

and tractors? 

Chris Sherry/ 

Ulster Tatler


Berlin 

Germany 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 






centre is about €35. 

The effi cient 

S-Bahn train leaves 

every 10 minutes from 

Berlin-Schönefeld 

airport. Tickets: €2.80. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Vöner 

(56 Boxhagenerstrasse, 

tel: 030 9926 5423) 

This tiny place in an 

alternative part of 

town has adapted 

the classic Turkish 

kebab for vegans. 

UP TO €30 

Sophieneck (37 Grosse 

Hamburger Strasse, tel: 

030 282 2109) Proper 

pubs like Sophieneck 

are hard to come by 

in this slick area. This 

eatery does fantastic 

homemade pub grub. 

UP TO €50 Neugrüns 

Köche (135A 

Schönhauser Allee, tel: 

030 4401 2092) The 

skilled cooks create 

a new four-course menu 

every day, with a focus 

on regional products. 

EXCLUSIVE Sale 

e Tabacchi (23 Rudi 

Dutschkestrasse, tel: 

030 2529 5003) 

Cavernous and classy, 

this is where Berlin’s 

elite hang out. Expect 

crisp white tablecloths, 

responsive service and 

tasty Italian classics. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Fire Bar 

(5 Krausnickstrasse, 

Mitte, tel: 030 2838 

5119) At Fire Bar, a DJ 

spins golden oldies from 

behind the bar and TVs 

show loops of crackling 

hearths. Chill out by the 

“fi res” with a cocktail. 

LIVE MUSIC Bang 

Bang Club (10 Neue 

Promenade, Mitte) 

A club inspired by 

1960s London, located 

under a railway arch. UK 

indie bands and local 

songwriters play here. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Barbie Deinhoff (16 

Schlesische Strasse, 

Kreuzberg) This funky 

watering hole offers 

fun and frolics with its 

famous happy hours 

from 6pm–9pm 

Monday–Friday, and 

from 4pm at weekends. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP The classy Blush 

shop offers an alluring, 

exclusive collection 

of ladies underwear, 

and Balls is an upscale 

men’s underwear shop 

right next door (22 Rosa 

Luxemburg Strasse). 

SEE The Lucia 

Christmas Market, held 

in a former brewery, is 

perhaps one of Berlin’s 

best. The fair offers 

mulled wine, carousels 

and food of all kinds 

(till 22 December, 

Kulturbrauerei). 

GO Berlin’s central 

avenue, Unter den 

Linden, is lovely in 

December with its 

trees lit up, various 


and an ice-skating rink. 

ESCAPE Dresden, two 

hours from Berlin, has 

excellent art museums 

and many other sights. 

It’s well worth a visit 

during the holiday 

season, if only to 

sample the famous 

stollen Christmas cake. 

TAXI TAXI 

THE MOST FAMOUS 

IRISH PUB IN BERLIN 

PARK 

INN 

★ ★ ★ ★ ★ 

A modern base for a 

weekend in Berlin, 

the Park Inn is at 

the heart of the 

Mitte district. The 

best views in the 

city can be found on 

the 37th fl oor, at the 

Casino Bar 37. From 

€89, book at hotels. 

easyJet.com. 

NO WAY! 

The Berlin Wall divided 

the city for 28 years. At 

least 136 people were 

shot trying to get out 

of East Berlin, while 

there were about 5,000 

successful escapes. 

www.exberliner.com 

Biarritz 

France 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





The journey to the 

centre costs €13 

and takes 10 minutes. 

The STAB runs 

hourly from 

7.30am–7.30pm, 

stopping at Biarritz Town 

Hall. Tickets: €1.20. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Pauzz 

Café (8 Avenue 

Jaulerry, tel: 05 5923 

1151) Just opposite the 

Palais des Festivals, this 

café sells delicious light 

snacks such as quiches, 

omelettes and salads. 

UP TO €30 Le Clos 

Basque (12 Rue Louis 

Barthou, tel: 05 5924 

2496) Expect traditional 

Basque cooking using 

only locally sourced 

produce. Eat in the cosy, 

relaxed atmosphere or 

outside on the terrace if 

it’s not too chilly. 

UP TO €50 Sissinou 

(5 Avenue Foch, tel: 05 

5922 5150) Warm, 

comfortable surrounds 

and exquisite food make 

this restaurant a must. 

There’s a great menu 

with highlights including 

wild mushroom ravioli, 

lamb sweetbreads and 

tasty duck-fat chips. 

EXCLUSIVE La 

Ferme de Bassilour 

(1 Rue Burruntz, tel: 

05 5941 9085) Groups 

of 10 or more can 

enjoy a unique dining 

experience in this great 

hotel restaurant. Chefs 

invite you into the 

kitchen to create your 

own dishes! Enjoy a 

fantastic gourmet meal 

in this beautiful 16thcentury 

farmhouse. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Ventilo 

Café (30 Rue Mazagran, 

tel: 05 5924 3142) 

A colourful café by the 

Port Vieux where trendy 

locals hang out. There 

are good cocktails, 

decent coffee and an 

eclectic array of wacky 

chairs to lounge in. 

LIVE MUSIC L’Atabal 

(37 Allée du Moura) A 

popular venue near the 

train station, L’Atabal 

promotes local artists 

and stages professional 

concerts throughout 

the year. Head down 

and discover reggae, rap 

and Basque music. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Le Play Boy Club 

(15 Place Clemenceau, 

tel: 05 5924 3846) This 

nightclub is frequented 

by a mix of all ages 

looking for a party 

atmosphere after the 

other bars close. Several 

dance fl oors play rock, 

1980s or techno music. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP La Pâtisserie 

Miremont has been 

thriving since it opened 

its doors in the late 19th 

century. Homemade 

cakes and pastries fl y 

off the shelves (1 bis, 

Place Clémenceau). 

SEE See one of 

France’s up-and-coming, 

alternative pop groups, 

Les Ogres de Barback, at 

L’Atabal on 4 December. 

The group is made up of 

four very talented, multiinstrumentalist 

siblings. 

It’s guaranteed to be a 

live music extravaganza 

(37 Allée du Moura). 

GO The Museum of 

Oriental Art houses 

one of the the biggest 

and best collections of 

Tibetan art in the world. 

The museum is located 

opposite the Hôtel 

Louisiane and is only 

open in the afternoons 

(1 Rue Guy Petit, 

museeasiatica.com). 

ESCAPE Just four 

kilometres along the 

coast lies Anglet, with 

its winning combination 

of 11 beaches and a pine 

forest adding to the 

stunning scenery. Buses 

and trains run all day 

from Biarritz and take 

about 10 minutes. 

NO WAY! 

The great Napoleon 

III built a palace for 

his beloved Eugenie 

overlooking the ocean 

– the site of today’s 

Palace Hotel. He had the 

palace built in the shape 

of a giant E, but sadly it 

can only be appreciated 

by the seagulls or the 

odd low-fl ying aircraft! 

Steve Bilsborough

NEW4D 

MOVIE! 

-5°C 

SPECIAL OFFER 

19,50 

The 4D Ice Xperience! 

12, NOW 

7 euro discount on presentation of your boarding pass 

50 

 

 

THE COOLEST ATTRACTION OF AMSTERDAM 

C


Bilbao 

Spain 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI A taxi to the centre 

costs about €28. 

Buses go to the 

city every 30 

minutes and the 25minute 

journey costs 

about €1.25. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 

Nasch Café (11 Calle 

Simón Bolívar, tel: 94 

410 6186) At this busy 

café, you can fi nd great 

sandwiches, salads and 

other tasty snacks. 

UP TO €30 Danon 

Etxea (24 Calle Juan de 

La Losa, tel: 94 411 

1053) Traditional 

Basque restaurant 

serving a wide range 

of regional meat and 

fi sh dishes. The roast 

chicken is a particular 

menu favourite. 

UP TO €50 Beltz 

the Black (61 Calle 

Alameda de Mazarredo, 

tel: 94 425 3300) 

Located inside the 

fi ve-star Hotel Domine, 

expect excellent quality 

food and wines, superb 

service and critical 

acclaim – all within 

beautiful surroundings. 

EXCLUSIVE Zortziko 

(17 Alameda de 

Mazarredo, tel: 94 423 

9743) Popular with 

locals and gastronomes 

alike, chef Daniel García 

has won many prizes for 

the innovative touches 

he adds to traditional 

Basque dishes. Try the 

cod if it’s on the menu. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Café Iruña 

(Jardines de Albia, tel: 

94 423 7021) The huge 

Café Iruña has been 

going strong since 1903. 

Relax with a hot drink 

or an aperitif amid the 

impressive Moorish 

tiling and décor. 

LIVE MUSIC Kafé 

Antzokia (2 San 

Vicente, tel: 94 424 

4625) Set in an old 

theatre, Antzokia is 

a great place to watch 

a band from a wide 

range of genres – local 

talents, underground 

names and huge stars. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Grafi t (1 Urrutia, tel: 94 

410 2772) In the centre 

of Bilbao, this lively 

theatre-café has plenty 

going on and a following 

of loyal locals. Energetic 

crowds fl ock here to 

dance the night away. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Paradise for 

chocoholics has arrived 

in Bilbao – Cacao 

Sampaka has exquisite 

chocolate from all over 

the world. Buy a box of 

truffl es or treat yourself 

to a hot chocolate in 

the café (20 Alameda 

de Rekalde). 

SEE Joaquín Achúcarro, 

the top pianist, performs 

at the Arriaga Theatre 

on 22 December. 

Tickets cost between 

€7.20–€30, book ahead 

(teatroarriaga.com). 

GO The annual 

Christmas art and 

crafts fair outside 

the Arriaga Theatre 

is a seasonal must. 

Stalls sell reasonably 

priced jewellery and 

leather goods (mid 

December–6 January). 

ESCAPE Lekeitio 

is a buzzing fi shing 

village an hour along 

the beautiful coastline 

from Bilbao (buses 

leave from Abando train 

station). Take a winter 

walk along the coast, 

enjoy excellent seafood 

and browse around the 

shops and old port. 

Katherine Bilsborough 

TAXI TAXI 

NO 

WAY! 

The Basques have 

their own Father 

Christmas fi gure, 

Olentzero. He is a 

charcoal burner who 

comes down from 

the mountains on 

Christmas Eve with 

a sack of toys for good 

boys and girls, and 

pieces of charcoal for 

the naughty ones! 

Birmingham 

UK 


CURRENCY £ 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI A taxi to the centre 

costs about £20. 

Trains leave every 

10 minutes for the 

city centre. Tickets: £3.10 

single; £6.20 return. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Urban 

Pie (Bullring Shopping 

Centre, tel: 0121 643 

0040) Chase away 

the winter chills with 

inventive English pies 

– favourites include 

steak or chicken balti. 

A meal deal includes 

a pie and hearty mash 

with peas or beans. 

UP TO €30 Mogo Grill 

and Juice (Touchwood 

Shopping Centre, 

Solihull, tel: 0121 705 

9864) African beats and 

vivid paintings create 

a welcoming space 

to enjoy spicy grilled 

meats and fi sh. Tilapia 

fi llet with fi ery dips and 

sizzling Serengeti beef 

are both great options. 

UP TO €50 Saffron 

(909 Wolverhampton 

Road, Oldbury, tel: 

0121 552 1752) Serving 

regional dishes in 

contemporary and 

elegant surroundings, 

this Indian restaurant is 

probably unlike any you 

have dined in before. 

Rabbit, lobster and 

Highland venison are 

some of Saffron’s more 

unusual offerings. 

EXCLUSIVE Purnell’s 

(55 Cornwall Street, 

tel: 0121 212 9799) 

Creative dishes such as 

brill cooked in coconut 

milk have earned chef 

Glynn Purnell many 

well-deserved awards, 

including his latest – 

AA Restaurant of the 

Year for England. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY The Lord 

Clifden (34 Great 

Hampton Street, tel: 

0121 523 7515) If you 

like real ale, then The 

Lord Clifden is for you. 

Cosy up in a low-lit 

corner with a pint of 

locally brewed ale. 

LIVE MUSIC Hare 

and Hounds (106 

High Street, tel: 0121 

444 2081) A spacious 

Victorian pub hosting 

regular and intimate 

gigs. You won’t get any 

big names, but this is 

the place to see aspiring 

stars play a mix of ska, 

reggae, jazz and much 

more in between. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Snobs (29 Paradise 

Circus, tel: 0121 643 

5551) Mingle with the 

young student crowd 

and take a trip down 

memory lane to fi nd 

If you want to continue to read this magazine 

and cannot take it with you, visit 

‰infl ight.com/emag 

‰ 

your indie-music-loving 

youth at this quirky, 

alternative club. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Pick up 

last-minute presents 

at Pavilions shopping 

centre. With everything 

from health food and 

chocolate to lingerie 

and designer fashions 

on offer, you can’t go 

wrong (38 High Street). 

SEE See actor Joe 

Pasquale and Ray Quinn 

as you’ve never seen 

them before in the 

city’s top pantomime 

production, Sleeping 

Beauty, running from 

19 December–31 

January (Birmingham 

Hippodrome, tel: 

0844 338 5000). 

GO Until 23 December, 

Victoria Square 

hosts one of the 

largest German-style 


in the UK. Warm cold 

fi ngers and toes with 

a glug of glühwein 

and soak up the 

festive atmosphere. 

ESCAPE If the 

atmospheric castle 

ruins or funicular railway 

aren’t enough to lure 

you to Bridgnorth, 

surely the chance to 

meet Father Christmas 

as you ride on one of the 

Severn Valley Railway’s 

steam trains will win 

you over this month. 

NO WAY! 

Back in 1998, the city’s 

council took political 

correctness to the 

extreme and renamed 

its Christmas and New 

Year festivities Winterval! 

Jenny McKelvie 

00000 EasyJet WEBSITE NEW.indd 1 11/11/09 17:01:33

Bordeaux 

France 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI 



A bus goes to Gare 

St Jean station 


7.45am–10.45pm. 

Tickets: €7. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Karl 

(6 Place du Parlement, 

tel: 05 5681 0100) 

A café-restaurant with 

a buzzing atmosphere 

on a pedestrianised 

square. Enjoy a latemorning 

brunch, soup 

or warm salad. 

UP TO €30 L’Etoile 

Cailhau (24 Place du 

Palais, tel: 05 5679 

1590) This restaurantbar 

set in the attractive 

Old Town is full of fresh 

produce from the local 

markets and the bar is 

open till 2am. 

UP TO €50 La Tupina 

(6–8 Rue Porte de la 

Monnaie, tel: 05 5691 

5637) At this classic 

Bordelais bistro, chef 

Jean Pierre Xiradakis 

presides over an open 

fi re cooking up great 

hunks of meat. It’s 

the perfect venue for 

a cold wintry day. 

EXCLUSIVE 

Au Bonheur du Palais 

(74 Rue Paul Louis 

Lande, tel: 05 5694 

3863) Widely renowned 

Chinese restaurant, 

considered by many to 

be the best in town. 

It specialises in 

excellent-quality 

Szechuan cuisine and 

is always busy. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Le Wine 

Bar (19 Rue des 

Bahutiers, tel: 05 

5648 5699) A relaxed 

wine bar with various 

regular events, such as 

blind tastings and jazz 

concerts. The extensive 

wine list includes 

vintage bottles from 

1827–2008 harvests. 

LIVE MUSIC 

Comptoir du Jazz 

(58 Quai de Paludate, 

tel: 05 5649 1555) 

This fantastic, dimly lit 

jazz bar is particularly 

welcoming on a cold 

December night. There’s 

great music, a hubbub 

of people, and a good 

bistro restaurant. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Calle Ocho (24 Rue 

des Piliers de Tutelle, 

tel: 05 5648 0868) 

Latin and salsa 

music blast out at 

this popular threefl 

oored venue. The 

mojitos are second to 

none – and so is the 

standard of dancing 

of the clientèle. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Jean d’Alos 

is one of the star 

attractions of the 

Bordeaux shopping 

circuit. Taste the 

cheeses that end 

up on top tables at 

the region’s best 

restaurants, they’re 

perfect for after dinner 

Christmas nibbles 

(4 Rue Montesqieu, tel: 

05 5644 2966). 

SEE Bordeaux’s annual 

Christmas fair sees 

wooden huts and 

stalls set up around 

Allées de Tourny. You 

can buy presents and 

feast on roast chestnuts 

and crêpes. 

GO Pedestrianised 

square Place Pey Berlan 

has a magnifi cent 

cathedral right in the 

city centre. It’s popular 

throughout the year, 

but come Christmas 

time, it’s even more 

interesting, with an 

outdoor ice rink and a 

celebratory, festive feel. 

ESCAPE At just 

over 3.5 hectares, 

Castelmoron d’Albret is 

the smallest commune 

in France. It’s a 

wonderful place to visit 

when the streets 

come alive with festive 

charm. Just an hour 

from Bordeaux. 

NO WAY! 

The local football 

team, the Bordeaux 

Girondins are currently 

the League Champions 

in France, after winning 

the 2008–2009 

season. They have won 

the league six times in 

their 130-year history. 

Jane Anson 

Bournemouth 

UK 


CURRENCY £ 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI 


centre is about £16. 

The A1 shuttle 

bus runs to the 

main square, hourly 

from 7.30am–6.30pm. 

Tickets: £4. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 The Real 

Eating Company 

(Gervis Hall, Gervis 

Place, tel: 01202 556 

920) Located in the upmarket 

Steamer Trading 

Cookshop, this lovely 

café serves delicious 

homemade sandwiches. 

UP TO €30 Vesuvio 

(Seafront, Alum Chine, 

tel: 01202 759 100) 

A lively Italian restaurant 

at a wonderful location, 

serving a range of 

pizzas and pasta dishes. 

UP TO €50 The 

Print Room (The Echo 

Building, tel: 01202 789 

669) This beautifully 

transformed building is 

a sumptuous restaurant 


with deep booths. The 

menu features brasserie 

classics such as oysters. 

EXCLUSIVE Chewton 

Glen Hotel (New Milton, 

Hampshire, tel: 01425 

275 341) Boasting three 

AA rosettes, the 

renowned Chewton 

Glen offers a superb 

fi ne-dining experience. 

Its ever-changing menu 

features gorgeous game 

from the New Forest. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Sixty 

Million Postcards 

(19–21 Exeter Road, tel: 

01202 292 697) Live 

music, DJs and quizzes 

are held at this eclectic 

bar with comfy sofas 

and tasty bar food. 

LIVE MUSIC Mr Kyps 

(8A Parr Street, Ashley 

Cross, Poole, tel: 01202 

748 945) Expect 

blues, jazz and punk 

with the odd musical 

gem thrown in – 12 

December sees the 

WOOD LODGE 

HOTEL 

★ ★ ★ ★ ★ 

The Wood Lodge 

Hotel is a charming, 

English country 

retreat, set within 

beautifully landscaped 

gardens, a 10-minute 

stroll from central 

Bournemouth. 



hotels.easyJet.com. 

American 1960s soul 

star Geno Washington. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Bar:[me] (134–136 

Old Christchurch Road, 

tel: 01202 780 260) 

Resident DJs and fancy 

dress nights: this is the 

place to party till late, 

seven days a week. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Wooden chalets 

and an Alpine-style 

bar make up this year’s 

Christmas market, 

transforming the town 

square into a winter 

wonderland, where 

you’ll fi nd all sorts of 

yuletide goodies. 

SEE Check out the 

Spartan swimming 

club’s Christmas Day 

dip in the freezing 

English Channel at 11am 

by Boscombe Pier. In 

fancy dress or wet suit, 

anyone can join in. 

GO The Moors Valley 

has some great forest 

trails, treetop walks, 

bike hire, a mini-steam 

railway and the fabulous 

Go-Ape high-ropes 

course (Ashley Heath). 

ESCAPE Take a ferry 

over to the Studland 

peninsula for a brisk 

walk along the beach or 

up the Old Harry rocks 

to Swanage, with plenty 

of seaside bars and 

cafés to warm up in. 

NO WAY! 

Bournemouth’s Court 

Royal, previously the 

Madeira Hotel, received 

the world’s fi rst paid 

wireless telegram. It 

was sent from The Royal 

Needles Hotel on the 

Isle of Wight, in 1898. 

Matthew Hancock 

Christmas C 

has come early this year! 

T 

The best English learning magazine in the world is 100% FREE for the month of December only. 

All you have to do is e-mail subs@hotenglishmagazine.com with the words 

“FREE magazine” as the e-mail subject to collect your gift. 

Wishing you a very merry Christmas from all of us at Hot English magazine. www.hotenglishmagazine.com


Brindisi 

Italy 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 




infl ight rates 

Holiday Taxis 





TAXI 



Local STP buses go 

to the city every 30 

minutes. Tickets: €0.80. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 

Carpe Diem 

Bruschetteria (11 

Piazza Dante) This 

place is hard to beat 

– for just €13 you’ll 

get a drink, starter 

and unlimited tasty 

bruschettas. Choose 

from more than 50 

toppings and fi nish 

with a house liqueur. 

UP TO €30 

La Sparacima 

(31 Via Arcidiacono 

Zaccaria, tel: 0831 

339 509) Traditional 

meaty meals are the 

signature dishes 

served at this fabulous 

restaurant, in a 17thcentury 

villa. Try some 

of the antipasti with a 

glass of Puglian wine. 

UP TO €50 Menhir 

(18 Via Pacuvio, 

tel: 0831 562 836) 

Minimalist décor, an 

informal atmosphere 

and a choice of three 

dining areas makes 

this a good spot for an 

intimate evening. Try 

the mare (seafood) 

tasting menu as a crash 

course in Pugliese food. 

EXCLUSIVE 

Hotel-Ristorante 

Grotta Palazzese 

(59 Via Narciso, tel: 

080 424 0677) 

A simply unforgettable 

restaurant with divine 

food, exquisite wines 

and a beautiful setting. 

Enjoy a great menu of 

seafood delights from 

the two terraces built 

within the cliff walls 

and dine overlooking 

amazing sea views. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY 

Casbah Cafè 

(Piazza Sant’Oronzo, 

Ostuni) In Ostuni’s 

main square, the 

Casbah is an excellent 

place to grab a cocktail, 

meet people and 

get a real taste of 

Italian nightlife. 

LIVE MUSIC 

Goblin’s Pub (55 Via 

Cavour) There is always 

some music thumping 

out of this lively little 

place. Pop your head 

through the door to see 

who’s playing that night. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Olive Wood Café 

(8 Piazza della Libertà, 

Ostuni, tel: 0831 341 

801) This charming bar 

right in the historical 

centre has a lively 

ambience. At weekends 

 

 

 

 

 

you can wind down with 

a drink while a local 

DJ spins Italian and 

international chart hits. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP D’Alò is an 

Aladdin’s cave of 

ceramic treasures. 

Its quirky colourful 

items are handmade 

and unique to the 

heel of Italy (51 

Piazza Matteotti). 

SEE If you are in 

Puglia on 26 December, 

head to Ostuni for 

its nativity night. All 

the beautiful cobbled 

streets are lit up by 

torch light and the 

locals recreate scenes 

from the nativity in 

full costume. It’s an 

enchanting evening 

full of festive spirit and 

fun for the kids. 

GO A tour of Itria 

Valley, just one hour 

away, provides a great 

day out. Take a look 

around Alberobello, 

a UNESCO World 

Heritage Site then stop 

off in Locorotondo for 

a bite to eat in one of 

the local restaurants. 

ESCAPE Book in 

to La Sommita, a day 

spa just an hour 

outside of Brindisi, 

for a mud bath or hot 

stone massage to 

de-stress from the 

Christmas madness 

(lasommita.it). 

NO WAY! 

The obscure Puglian 

dialect, faetar dates 

back to the 14th 

century and is spoken 

by only 1,400 people 

in the world. 

Max Keep 

Bristol 

UK 


CURRENCY £ 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI 

A journey to the city 

costs about £25. 

The Bristol 

International Flyer 

connects the airport 

to Temple Meads train 

station, Bristol Bus 

Station and Clifton, with 

stops around the city. 

Tickets: £6–£7 single; 

£9 return. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Tobacco 

Factory Café (Raleigh 

Road, tel: 0117 902 

0060) The industrial 

style, loud music and 

lighting might not seem 

like a good place to 

enjoy a meal, but the 

open kitchen creates a 

welcoming atmosphere. 

UP TO €30 Friska 

(32–36 Victoria Street) 

Friska caters perfectly 

for lunchtime nibbles 

– with delicious hearty 

meals such as 

Jamaican jerk chicken 

with coconut rice. 

UP TO €50 Noa 

Japanese restaurant 

(12–13 Waterloo Street, 

Clifton, tel: 0117 973 

2881) Expect genuine 

Japanese cuisine, 

super fresh fi sh and 

seasonal vegetables, 

plus friendly staff. 

EXCLUSIVE Hotel Du 

Vin Bistro (The Sugar 

House, Narrow Lewins 

Mead, tel: 0117 925 

5577) Enjoy a fab menu 

of European cuisine 

in the magnifi cently 

restored Sugar House. 

Book ahead. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Zero 

Degrees (53 Colston 

Street, tel: 0117 925 

2706) A modern bar and 

microbrewery offering a 

fresh and uncomplicated 

beer menu. Order a 

delicious fruity beer. 

LIVE MUSIC 

Karaoke-Me! (12 St 

Stephen’s Street, tel: 

0117 376 3100) It may 

THE NATIONAL 

ARBORETUM 

ESCAPE Take a walk 

through the woods 

and see The National 

Arboretum, 40 

minutes from Bristol, 

lit up at night. Say 

hello to Father 

Christmas and see 

festive goings-on at 

the weekends until 20 

December (Tetbury, 

tel: 01666 880 220). 

not be live music and the 

quality depends on you, 

but here you can choose 

from more than 5,000 

songs to sing along to. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Mbargo (38–40 

Triangle West, tel: 0117 

925 3256) A stylish bar 

with leather sofas and 

marble tables, open until 

2am every night. Enjoy 

dancing the night away 

to lively party tunes. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP The German 

Christmas market 

takes place until 20 

December, with many 

stalls selling a 

fantastic range of 

gifts and crafts, plus 

a traditional Germanthemed 

bar (Quakers 

Friars and Broadmead). 

SEE Bristol’s new Blue 

Reef Aquarium is located 

on the harbourside and 

is great for an exciting 

afternoon out. It features 

more than 40 aquatic 

displays showcasing 

freshwater and marine 

species from around the 

world (Anchor Road). 

GO Snow White and 

the Seven Dwarfs 

pantomime has 

a fantastic cast including 

Eastenders’ Joe Swash, 

who is sure to delight 

the whole family. From 

11 December–10 

January (The Bristol 

Hippodrome). 

NO WAY! 

John Wesley’s Chapel, 

the oldest Methodist 

church in the world, can 

be found in Bristol. It 

dates back to 1739. 

Chris Savage/ 

Destination Bristol

Feel like a God where natures finest elements mingle with natural 

architecture modeled from rural caves of ancient times 

The newly constructed Suites of the Gods, built in the 

island’s traditional architecture and combined with 

modern comforts, guarantee to meet & exceed all of 

your expectations. 

The CAVE SPA in the renovated wine cellar caves 

sets the standard of ancient therapies in its unique 

IS YOUR OFFSHORE NUMBER UP? 

HMR&C now has very detailed information from over 100 banks around the world and 

particularly from institutions in Liechtenstein about UK residents with investments overseas. 

They are seeking to prosecute anyone who has not fully disclosed all taxable amounts 

whether arising in the UK or overseas and are offering a limited Amnesty to qualifying people 

who notify their intention to make a full disclosure by 30 November 2009. 

It is not a simple process and it is fraught with dangers for those who do not understand how 

the HMR&C system works. Anyone with undisclosed offshore assets or income should take advantage of the 

Amnesty but only with the guidance of an experienced firm like Cobham Murphy and its ex HMR&C high 

level Investigators who have an international reputation for fighting HMR&C on behalf of their clients. 

If you wish to avoid prosecution and get the most tax 

and fee cost efficient outcome please contact: 

surroundings. Other features include a heated cave 

pool with waterfall designed to soothe the soul. 

The Quiet of the Caves will calm your senses in 

preparation for Relaxing Treatments, in three Private ex 

wine Cellars, one a Turkish Hammam, and two massage 

rooms, one for couples & one just for you. 

84700 Santorini, GREECE • Tel.: +30 22860 28856 • Winter Tel.: +30 6977 079 338 

• Email: sales@suitesofthegods.com • www.suitesofthegods.com 

John Green Tel: 0151 285 3100 - jgreen@cobham-murphy.co.uk 

Morag Collins Tel: 0151 285 3136 - moragcollins@cobham-murphy.co.uk


Brussels 

Belgium 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI 



Every 20 minutes, 

routes 12 and 21 

go to Schuman metro 

station in the centre. 


BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Thai 

Orchid (1629 Chaussée 

de Wavre, tel: 02 673 

7098) Try fi lling threecourse 

lunch menus 

served in this Zenlike 

environment. 

UP TO €30 Spicy Grill 

(102 Rue Stevin, tel: 02 

512 2505) Set in a 20thcentury 

mansion, this 

renovated restaurant 

is modern in style and 

cuisine. As expected 

by the name, the food 

is hot stuff! 

UP TO €50 

Pheniciens Palace 

(7 Avenue Jules du 

Jardin, tel: 02 779 4222) 

Find great Lebanese 

cuisine at this superb 

villa. Order the large 

Phenicien menu for 

a selection of the best 

dishes on offer. 

EXCLUSIVE 

Le Chalet de la Forêt 

(43 Drève de Lorraine, 

tel: 02 374 5416) Chef 

Pascal Devalkeneer 

heads up this sumptuous 

restaurant minutes 

from the city centre. The 

chef’s fi ve-course menu 

allows diners to sample 

his fi nest cuisine. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY De Ultieme 

Hallucinatie (316 

Koningsstraat, tel: 02 

217 0614) As impressive 

as an art museum, 

this venue consists of 

three rooms of various 

architectural infl uences. 

It’s a great place to chill 

out with a drink. 

LIVE MUSIC Marcus 

Mingus Jazz Spot 

(17–19 Rue de la 

Fourche, tel: 02 514 

1615) Fantastic live jazz 

NH BRUSSELS 

CITY CENTRE 

★ ★ ★ ★ ★ 

Fantastically 

positioned right in 

the centre of the city, 

the NH Brussels is an 

ideal base from which 

to explore the city. Sip 

a delicious Belgian 

beer at Brasserie 

Chez Louise. From 


easyJet.com. 

is played in this cosy 

club located in the chic 

Floris Arlequin Hotel. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Conways (10 Avenue 

de la Toison d’Or, tel: 02 

511 2668) The resident 

DJ and outrageous staff 

make Conways a popular 

place to dance till dawn. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Dig for 

a designer bargain at 

vintage store J M Piu, 

where you can fi nd 

almost-new designer 

goods at great prices 

(10 Plattesteen). 

SEE Discover the 

customs, accents and 

quirks of Brussels in an 

interactive exhibition 

– Experience Brussels 

– held at Brussels 

Info Place until 30 

December (2–4 Rue 

Royale, biponline.be). 

GO The Colonne 

du Congrès, in 

Congresplein is an 

impressive column, 

which towers over the 

city. Stroll through the 

nearby streets and soak 

up the spirit of the city. 

ESCAPE Leuven, 

just 30 minutes away, 

is home to Belgium’s 

oldest university, the 

KUL. Don’t miss the 

Oude market, then stop 

off for a pint of worldfamous 

Stella Artois in 

its hometown. 

NO WAY! 

Brussels’ Law Courts 

were built between 

1866–1883. Back then 

it was one of the largest 

constructions of the 

19th century, measuring 

26,000sqm. 

Fadil Kebsi 

Bucharest 

Romania 


CURRENCY Leu (RON) 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI 


is about RON80. 

Bus 783 to Piata 

Unirii leaves every 


RON8 (valid for two trips). 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Die 

Deutsche Kneipe 

(9 Strada Stockholm, 

tel: 021 233 9462) 

Well-priced enormous 

portions of homemade 

German sausages are 

served with fried eggs 

at Romania’s home of 

German cuisine. 

UP TO €30 Las Tapas 

(6 Strada Covaci, tel: 

021 313 7580) A good 

tapas bar in Bucharest’s 

Old Town. There’s plenty 

of tasty fi nger food 

to choose from and a 

cocktail list long enough 

to tempt you to stay for 

the rest of the evening. 

UP TO €50 Byblos 

(14–16 Strada Nicolae 

Golescu, tel: 021 313 

Sitting comfortably? 

2091) Expect good 

Italian food at decent 

prices. It’s located 

behind the Romanian 

Atheneum, so it’s a 

good pre- and postconcert 

venue. 

EXCLUSIVE Poem 

(23–25 Aleea Suter, tel: 

021 336 3377) Descend 

the grand staircase at 

the Carol Parc Hotel 

to the classy realms of 

Bucharest’s rich and 

famous. Dine on glazed 

scallops with artichoke 

purée in front of 

a roaring open fi re. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Festival 

39 (62–64 Strada 

Franceza) You’ll fi nd 

this classy café on Piata 

Unirii. Book a window 

seat and enjoy cocktails 

and coffee while looking 

out onto the busiest 

square in the city. 

LIVE MUSIC Mojo 

Music Club (14 Strada 

Gabroveni) Acoustic and 

rock music is supplied 

by resident live bands, 

and there are regular 

karaoke nights in the 

heart of Bucharest’s 

Old Town. The walls 

are emblazoned with 

the covers of every 

great rock album ever 

made, plus the drinks 

are well priced. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Expirat/Other Side 

of Expirat (4 Strada 

Brezoianu) Expirat offers 

mainstream clubby 

sounds, while Other 

Side of Expirat – found 

in the entrance round 

the corner – is an edgier 

venue where the DJ is 

capable of putting any 

tune on the turntable. 

advertising@ink-publishing.com | www.ink-publishing.com | Tel: +44 (0)20 7613 8795 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Classy Austrian 

jewellery brand Frey 

Wille has just opened a 

Bucharest boutique on 

the city’s top shopping 

street, Calea Victoriei. 

Find everything you need 

for your Christmas gifts 

(118 Calea Victoriei). 

SEE Bucharest now 

has an IMAX cinema, 

the fi rst in the country 

and indeed, in this part 

of Europe. Find it at the 

Palace Cotroceni Mall 

and get out of the cold 

for an hour watching 

the latest Christmas 

blockbuster (take the 

metro to Politehnica). 

GO Bucharest’s Old 

Town is undergoing 

a huge reconstruction, 

which is nearly 

complete. Walk around 

Stradas Smardan, 

Franceza and Selari: 

all are packed with old 

buildings plus brand 

new bars, restaurants 

and quirky stores. 

ESCAPE As soon 

as the snow hits the 

ground, make like 

a local and head for 

Sinaia. Pistes are rough 

around the edges, 

but there is enough 

snow to keep the most 

seasoned skier happy 

for a day. Trains to 

Sinaia from Gara de 

Nord leave regularly and 

take about two hours. 

NO WAY! 

December marks the 

20th anniversary of the 

Romanian Revolution. 

Democracy was restored 

after dictator Nicolae 

Ceausescu, was shot on 

Christmas Day 1989. 

Craig Turp 

Imagine over 4.5 million people looking 

at your advert for a minimum of two hours. 

Make part of your plan today 

150x28 (4.5 MILLION).indd 1 15/4/09 13:42:27

Budapest 

Hungary 


CURRENCY Forint (HUF) 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI A taxi costs about 

HUF3,500– 

HUF4,800 to the centre. 

Trains leave 

Terminal 1 for 

Western station. 

Tickets: HUF300. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 

Burekkirály (14 Weiner 

Leó utca, VI, tel: 259 

8899) Bureks (cheese 

pastries) are a hearty 

snack and here they are 

served by the plate full, 

along with hamburgers. 

UP TO €50 Pata 

Negra (8 Kálvin tér, IX, 

tel: 215 5616) With so 

many delicious tapas to 

choose from, decisions 

are diffi cult to make 

at Pata Negra. Garlic 

spinach with Serrano 

ham is a fi rm favourite, 

and the cheese plates 

are also supremely tasty. 

EXCLUSIVE 

1894 Borvendégõ 

(2 Állatkerti út, XIV, tel: 

468 4044) This venue 

offers exclusive wine 

tasting sessions, as 

well as exquisite wine 

dinners: a set menu is 

carefully planned by 

the chef, with wines to 

match each course. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Spinoza 

Café (15 Dob utca, VII, 

tel: 413 7488) All-day 

breakfasts and an 

endless supply of 

newspapers and music 

make this a hot spot in 

the Jewish quarter. Plus 

there’s a great theatre. 

LIVE MUSIC Take 

Five (2 Paulay Ede 

utca, VI) At Take Five 

they pride themselves 

on a good crowd which 

provides the unbeatable 

atmosphere. Live music 

plays till 2am and 

there’s a variety of world 

music and acid jazz. 

LATE & LIVELY 

E-Klub (Népliget, 

Planetárium Mellett, X, 

tel: 263 1614) A popular 

venue for Budapest’s 

youngsters, E-Klub 

is open until 5am on 

weekends and has 

four bars, a garden and 

all-night pizza. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP With teas from 

more than 10 countries 

and friendly, professional 

advice, you can stock up 

on fi rst-class teas and 

accessories to warm 

up your winter days 

at Hanami Teaház 

(9 Királyi Pál utca, V). 

SEE The biggest 

attraction until 29 

December is the 

Christmas market at 

Vörösmarty Square. 

Warm up with mulled 

wine and hot sausages 

while browsing through 

the many stands. 

GO Impressive 

Christmas lights line the 

Andrássy út where you’ll 

be tempted to drop in 

at one of the cafés or 

restaurants to warm 

up and get a real taste 

of Budapest life. It’s a 

beautiful part of the city 

at this time of year. 

ESCAPE A walk in 

the stunning Gödöllõ 

Palace gardens followed 

by a hot cocoa in the 

café and a browse in 

the Palace museum 

will chase away the 

winter chills. Take the 

30-minute bus or train 

journey from the city. 

TAXI TAXI 

UP TO 

€30 

Sercli (7 Veres 

Pálné utca, V, tel: 

235 0293) There’s 

a fun atmosphere, 

humorous waiters 

and stupendous 

food in this wood 

cabin-style venue. 

Sercli offers a winning 

combination for an 

entertaining evening 

or a long lunch. 

NO WAY! 

Although it’s not famous 

for its wine, Hungary has 

22 wine regions with 

at least 26 different 

types of grapes. 

Deborah Marshall 

Cagliari 

Italy 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI The 10-minute 

journey to the 

centre costs about €20. 

ARST buses to 

the city centre 

leave every 30 minutes 

from 8.45am–22.45pm. 


BON APPETIT 


160 (160 Viale Poetto, 

tel: 070 381 160) The 

huge tasty pizzas make 

it well worth a visit to 

this friendly pizzeria 

located near the 

beautiful Poetto Beach. 

UP TO €30 Taj Mahal 

(179 Via Roma, tel: 

070 4510 230) The Taj 

Mahal is a great option 

if you need a break from 

typical Italian food. The 

owners have created 

an eclectic menu in this 

Indian retreat in the 

heart of Cagliari. 

UP TO €50 

L’Archibugio (85 Via 

Sulis, tel: 070 665 877) 


Located close to the 

impressive Bastion San 

Remy, this medievalstyle 

restaurant offers 

350 dishes which 

vary according to the 

season. It’s a beautiful 

setting in an ancient 

building where the 

waitresses dress in 

medieval costumes. 

EXCLUSIVE Crackers 

(195 Corso Vittorio 

Emanuele, tel: 070 653 

912) This restaurant 

is the epitome of high 

quality food in Cagliari. 

Enjoy a leisurely meal 

savouring marvellous 

cuisine. The cooking has 

a strong Piedmontese 

infl uence and the menu 

varies depending on 

the season – think rich 

wintry risottos. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Caffè 

Savoia (14 Via Savoia, 

tel: 070 651 981) 

Located in the centre 

of town, Caffè Savoia is 

a well-known meeting 

point for many artists 

and hosts frequent art 

events. Head down to 

enjoy the artwork du jour 

over a steaming coffee. 

LIVE MUSIC Soul 

Pub (394 Corso Vittorio 

Emanuele) Expect live 

music of all genres 

on Wednesdays and 

Fridays which is played 

to a faithful crowd of 

youngsters. The bar 

serves Tex-Mex food 

to compliment a great 

cocktail and beer menu. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Magnolia (408 Via San 

Giovanni) At this music 

bar you can listen to 

breakbeat, hip-hop and 

electronic music till 

the early hours of the 

morning. Ask about the 

fun theme nights, from 

drag shows to karaoke. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP During 

December, a Christmas 

market is held in Via 

Roma right behind 

the busy port. The 

stalls offer jewellery, 

Sardinian crafts and 

many other great 

gift ideas to take 

home for Christmas. 

SEE Experience 

a magical night on 

New Year’s Eve when 

fi reworks mark the end 

of a fun evening, live 

bands play into the early 

hours and a celebratory 

mood fi lls the narrow 

streets of Cagliari’s 

historic quarters. 

GO Bonaria cemetery 

is a green and peaceful 

oasis with wonderful 

19th-century sculptures. 

It’s the perfect place 

to get away from the 

general hubbub of 

Cagliari and take a 

relaxing afternoon stroll 

under the winter sun. 

ESCAPE A very 

interesting example of 

Phoenician excavation 

can be found around 

90 minutes from 

Cagliari near the town 

of Sant’Antioco. Ruins 

dating back thousands 

of years have been 

discovered here. 

NO WAY! 

Sardinians have 

one of the world’s 

longest average life 

expectancies at 

about 83 for men and 

85 for women. 

Dario Henke


Casablanca 

Morocco 


CURRENCY MAD 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI The journey to 

the centre takes 

30 minutes and costs 


Trains depart 

every hour to Casa 

Voyageur from 6am– 

10pm. The journey takes 



BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 

La Grillardière (Rue 

Taha Houcine, tel: 

0522 484 929) Expect 

succulent brochettes 

(grilled meats) at this 

charming restaurant. 

UP TO €30 TGI 

Friday’s (4 Rue Bahr al 

Yabane) Try TGI’s 

restaurant or dessert 

bar. The funky 

memorabilia and dishes 

never fail to please. 

UP TO €50 Ryad 

Zitoun (31 Boulevard 

Rachidi, tel: 0522 

223 927) Restaurant 

serving delicious 

Moroccan cuisine in a 

beautiful, traditional 

homely setting. Order 

the prune tagine. 

EXCLUSIVE 

La Bavaroise (135 

Rue Allal ben Abdallah, 

tel: 0522 311 760) 

A great place for those 

who appreciate a 

friendly atmosphere. 

Try seasonal menus 

featuring seafood with 

a glass of wine from the 

fabulous selection. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Le Nôtre 

(86 Boulevard Moulay 

Rachid, tel: 0522 396 

190) Sample the mouthwatering 

delicacies of 

this classy, international 

café, while sipping on 

excellent coffee or tea. 

LIVE MUSIC Le 

Diplomate (27 Avenue 

de l’Armée Royale, tel: 

0522 313 011) The 

refi ned piano bar at 

Hotel Royal Mansour 

Méridien is relaxing with 

live entertainment 

in the evenings. 

LATE & LIVELY Le 

Boudoir (6 Rue Mer de 

Chine, tel: 052 279 

7175) Open from 9pm– 

4am, this hip Parisianstyle 

lounge has cool 

weekly theme nights 

such as “I love Paris”. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Founded in 

1903, Yazami is a wellestablished 

name for 

homemade goods: fresh 

cheeses and the best 

sellou (cake) in town (40 

Boulevard Bir Anzarane). 

SEE On Christmas Eve 

you can join the carolers 

by candelight at 7pm 

and communion at 

11.30pm in St John’s 

Anglican Church (Rond 

Point LeClerc, next 

to the Hyatt). 

GO Racine is the 

trendiest district of 

Casablanca. Find the 

Twin Centre buildings 

where all the hippest 

cafés and boutiques 

are. Don’t miss the 

interesting mix of 

markets and mosques. 

ESCAPE A new 

motorway has reduced 

travel time to Marrakech 

to two hours. Pop down 

for the day and enjoy 

all that this vibrant city 

has to offer – including 

Jemaa el Fna market, a 

real treat for the senses. 

TAXI TAXI 

RAMADA 

ALMOHADES 

★ ★ ★ ★ ★ 

This comfortable 

hotel is ideally located, 

just a 10-minute walk 

from the Medina and 

Mohamed Square, 

making it a perfect 

spot to start your 

city tour. Breakfast 



easyJet.com. 

Visit WWW.LOVEMYFRAMES.COM 

for the widest range of designer 

sunglasses & frames on the internet 

NO WAY! 

The Portuguese 

originally named 

Casablanca “Casa 

Branca”. It was 

renamed Casa Blanca 

by the Spanish 

hundreds of years later. 

Cara Warkentin 

Catania 

Italy 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI A trip to the centre 


Route 457 leaves 

every 20 minutes 

from 5am–8pm, 

stopping in the centre 

and the central train 

station. Tickets: €1 

(ticket machine); €1.30 

(onboard). 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Bar 

Scardaci (5 Piazza San 

Domenico, tel: 095 332 

211) Warm up over a hot 

drink and tasty Sicilian 

fast food in this cosy 

little bar, open 24/7. 

UP TO €30 Taverna 

Coppola (49–51 Via 

Coppola, tel: 095 715 

3662) This traditional 

pizzeria is the perfect 

place to kick start 

your evening with 

huge pizzas or moreish 

pasta. The friendly 

waiters and great food 

mean you might not 

want to leave. 

UP TO €50 Trattoria 

Il Mare (7 Via San 

Michele, tel: 095 317 

024) A chilled-out venue 

which attracts plenty 

of locals thanks to its 

top quality fare. The 

name means seafood 

restaurant, so you’d be 

a fool to miss any of the 

delicious fi sh dishes. 

EXCLUSIVE Ai Lumi 

Di Oliveri Salvatore 

(65 Via Verdi, tel: 095 

313 321) Located 

within the heart of 

the city walls this 

luxury restaurant has 

an elaborate menu. 

Take your pick from 

sensational homemade 

pasta, delicate fi sh or 

hearty meat dishes. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Rosso 

Mela Cafè (55 Via 

Santa Filomena, tel: 

095 250 3321) This 

cool café-wine bar 

tucked away on a 

narrow little street is 

ideal for a leisurely, 

pre-dinner drink. 

LIVE MUSIC 

Mammut (20 Via San 

Lorenzo, tel: 095 715 

2355) This cultural 

space is an art gallery, 

restaurant and wine 

bar, and it also hosts 

some impressive live 

music nights. Enjoy 

a happy hour cocktail 

while listening to some 

chilled-out jazz. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Agorà Hostel 

(6 Piazza Currò, tel: 

095 723 3010) A trendy 

pub housed within this 

youth hostel provides 

one of the best nights 

out in the city. Built in a 

cave and surrounded by 

ancient ruins, this rustic 

venue promises one 

seriously lively night. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Browse Sicily’s 

fi nest produce at 

Fratelli Motta, a small 

shop selling beautiful, 

handcrafted souvenirs 

and gifts (1 Via Etnea). 

SEE At this time 

of year, Catania’s 

squares are positively 

buzzing with traditional 

events, markets and 

festive celebrations. 

If you fi nd it a little 

too cold outdoors, 

the Bellini Theatre 

hosts performances 

throughout the month 

(12 Via Perrotta, 

teatromassimobellini.it). 

GO Lidi Playa is a long 

stretch of white, sandy 

coastline. At this time of 

year it will be deserted, 

but just as idyllic: take 

a stroll along the beach, 

dine in local restaurants 

or wait till sundown and 

hit the clubs. 

ESCAPE Indulge in 

some fun winter sports 

while on Sicily this 

month. The nearby 

Mount Etna volcano is 

covered in snow and the 

area buzzes with local 

thrill-seekers. The bus 

takes about an hour 

from Catania and leaves 

from the central train 

station square. 

NO WAY! 

After Tuscany, Sicily 

has Italy’s secondhighest 

number 

of UNESCO World 

Heritage Sites – there 

are fi ve of them! 

Alessandro Di Maio/ 

laspecula.com 

For 10% off your fi rst 

order enter eJ10 at the checkout

No strings 

attached. Wireless 40” 

LCD Bravia by Sony. 

Bids invited from £1. 

The only online marketplace 

using sealed bids. Dozens of 

luxury lots on offer right 

now. Entry fees apply. 

www.auction-air.com


Cologne 

Germany 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI The fare to 

Cologne is about 

€30 and Bonn €40. 

Trains leave for 

Cologne every 10 


BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 

Bagel Station 

(12 Sudermanstrasse, 

Cologne, tel: 0221 926 

9744) Tuck into fresh 

bagels with a variety of 

fl avours and fi llings at 

this relaxed eatery. 

UP TO €30 Sushi 

Nara (19 Mittelstrase, 


6777) This popular little 

restaurant on a busy 

shopping street serves 

fresh nigiri sushi with 

aromatic sencha tea. 

UP TO €50 Kaevers 

Gasthaus zur Traube 

(10 Lannesdorferstrasse, 

Bonn, tel: 0228 347 897) 

A charming restaurant 

serving fresh, unusual 

dishes. Try the Rioja 

menu with mussel soup 

and fi sh medallions. 

EXCLUSIVE Le 

Petit Poisson (23A 

Wilhelmstrasse, Bonn, 

tel: 0228 633 883) This 

is one of the fi nest 

restaurants in the city. 

The extensive menu 

features lobster and 

traditional German 

Christmas carp. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Café Blau 

(9 Franziskanerstrasse, 

Bonn, tel: 0228 650 

717) An “in” spot for 

students, Café Blau is 

busy at weekends with 

great music and staff. 

LIVE MUSIC 

Underground (200 

Vogelsangerstrasse, 


326) This indie-rock 

venue consistently 

delivers top bands. It’s 

a good size: you can 

be right by the stage 

without having too far 

to travel to the bar. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Barracuda (44 

Bismarckstrasse, 


4838) A local favourite 

that will give you 

a great fl avour of 

Cologne nightlife. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP As Christmas 

markets originated 

in Germany, you’re 

guaranteed to fi nd 

some of the best in 

these parts. Don’t miss 

the great offering on the 

Altermarkt in Cologne. 

SEE From 9 December 

onwards, visit the 

exhibition of Arno 

Fischer, a German 

photographer. The 

museum is showcasing 

more than 170 pieces of 

his work (KAH Bonn, 

4 Friedrich-Ebert-Allee). 

GO Spend a wonderful 

winter’s afternoon 

at the ice rink on the 

Museumsplatz in Bonn. 

Listen to music blasting 

out of the speakers as 

you practise your steps 

or indulge in a glühwein 

and delicious waffl e. 

ESCAPE If you want 

to experience a fairytale 

village, Monschau, just 


Cologne, is the place to 

go. Nestled in a steep 

valley, this medieval 

village boasts plenty 

of museums. 

TAXI TAXI 

THE NEW 

YORKER 

★ ★ ★ ★ ★ 

Modern design, 

contemporary décor 

and stylish interiors 

are to be expected at 

this conference hotel, 

where you can also 

enjoy its wonderful 

spa. Breakfast 



easyJet.com. 

NO WAY! 

The 24-tonne St 

Petersglocke bell is the 

largest free-swinging 

bell in the world. Hike up 

the 509 steps to the bell 

tower to see it. 

Gaby Pinkner/ 

rhinemagazine.com 

Copenhagen 

Denmark 


CURRENCY Krone (DKK) 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI Expect to pay from 

DKK150–DKK180 

for the 20-minute trip. 

Underground trains 

go to Nørreport 

station from Terminal 3, 

leaving every four to 

six minutes during 

the day and every 

15 minutes at night. 

Tickets: DKK31.50. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 

Soupanatural (7A 

Guldbergsgade, tel: 3213 

1735) A trendy eatery 

serving bio-organic 

food – think delicious 

porridge and smoothies 

in the morning. 

UP TO €30 PatéPaté 

(1 Slagterboderne, tel: 

3969 5557) A new wine 

bar-restaurant in trendy 

Kødbyen. Enjoy a plate 

of tapas at the long, 

sociable tables. 

UP TO €50 Umami 

(59 Store Kongensgade, 

tel: 3338 7500) With 

 

 

 

chic design, highconcept 

Asian cuisine 

and a cocktail menu 

to die for, Umami is 

Copenhagen’s answer 

to major metropolitan 

watering holes like Nobu. 

EXCLUSIVE Noma 

(93 Strandgade, tel: 

3296 3297) Expect 

Nordic cuisine of the 

very highest calibre at 

Noma. The seafood, 

as you might expect, 

is particularly good 

but standards are 

exceptional across 

the board at this 

excellent, two-starred 

Michelin restaurant. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY 1105 

(4 Kristen Bernikows 

Gade) Get a taste of 

the city with the new 

Copenhagen cocktail, 

composed by top 

bartender Gromit in this 

trendy, chilled out venue. 

LIVE MUSIC Loppen 

at Christiania (4B 

Sydområdet, tel: 3257 

8422) One of the city’s 

most popular venues, 

the music varies from 

underground Danish 

acts to larger wellknown 

bands. 

LATE & LIVELY Karel 

van Mander (16 Lille 

Kongensgade, tel: 3311 

2020) Named after the 

baroque painter who 

used the premises 350 

years ago to paint 

portraits of King 

Christian IV, this club 

attracts a classy crowd. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP The Danish Art 

and Christmas Shop 

is a treasure trove of 

Christmas ornaments 

and Hans Christian 

Andersen-inspired 

paper cutouts. Find 

everything you need to 

decorate your home in 

winter wonderland style 

(3 Knabrostræde). 

SEE From 7–18 

December, the City 

Hall Square will be 

transformed into 

a city of hope with 

Hopenhagen Live 

– a big cultural event 

focusing on the world’s 

climate challenges 

(hopenhagen.org). 

GO Head down to 

Tivoli this month to 

see its fantastic 

Christmas market. 

Try to plan ahead and 

visit during the week 

as it’s sure to be jampacked 

on weekends. 

ESCAPE Just 

a 20-minute journey 

from Copenhagen is 

Roskilde, dating back 

to medieval times. The 

cathedral where many 

kings and queens are 

buried is well worth 

a visit. Check out the 

clock showing the 

famous scene of St 

George slaying a dragon 

– every hour he makes 

the dragon cry. 

NO WAY! 

According to Danish 

tradition Santa Claus 

(Julemanden in Danish) 

lives in Greenland, not 

at the North Pole. Every 

year volunteers answer 

thousands of letters 

full of wish lists sent to: 

Julemanden, Box 1615, 

3900 Nuuk, Greenland. 

Anne-Louise Skade 

| 

Copenhagen 

THIS WEEK

Dortmund 

Germany 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI 


€22 for the 20- 

minute journey. 

A shuttle bus 

travels non-stop 

between the airport 

and Central station. 


BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Caracalla 

(75 Muensterstrasse, tel: 

0231 3159 264) Enjoy 

affordable and delicious 

Oriental and Lebanese 

food, including tasty 

meat dishes straight 

from a wood-fi red grill. 

There’s a snack bar 

section to takeaway too. 

UP TO €30 

Boomerang 

(20 Kuckelke, tel: 0231 

586 2911) An Australianstyle 

bar-restaurant 

that’s crammed full 

of happy diners. If you 

dare, try the emu or 

crocodile dishes 

washed down with 

an Aussie beer. 

UP TO €50 Mongo’s 

(78 Lindemannstrasse, 

tel: 0231 584 4950) 

Excellent Mongolian 

buffet-style dining. Grab 

a plate, load it with fresh 

ingredients – including 

crocodile and shark 

– and the chefs will 

prepare it for you. 

EXCLUSIVE 

Overkamp (633 

Wittbräuckerstrasse, 

Höchsten, tel: 0231 462 

736) This fi ne restaurant 

specialises in regional 

and fi sh dishes. It’s 

a little out of town, but 

well worth the journey. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY 

Swabedoo (26 Kleine 

Beurhausstrasse, tel: 

0231 141 300) A piano 

and singer perk up the 

crowd in this lovely cafébar 

on weekend nights. 

LIVE MUSIC 

Limericks Irish Pub 

(45 Kampstrasse, tel: 

0231 160 175) This bar 

NO 

WAY! 

Dortmund’s massive 

Christmas tree is 

the largest in the 

world: it’s 45m high, 

consists of 1700 

standard trees and 

weighs 30 tonnes. 

It’s decorated with 

40,000 lights, 20 

2.5m candles, and is 

topped off with 

a 200kg angel! 

hosts crooners of 

country, rock and 

traditional music on 

Saturday evenings. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Justin’s (6–8 Markt, 

tel: 0231 5896 9770) A 

suave disco decked out 

in dark colours, playing 

funk, soul and salsa 

to a fun-loving crowd. 

It’s open Friday and 

Saturday nights. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Find great 

second-hand clothes 

and Indian decorations 

at Goblin, a cluttered 

treasure trove that 

bathes in the heady 

scents of Asia 

(53 Brückstrasse). 

SEE Dortmund holds 

one of Germany’s 

largest Christmas 

markets in the city’s 

main square until 23 

December. Visitors brave 

the cold to visit the stalls 

selling delicious hot 

glühwein, traditional 

snacks and gifts. 

GO The historical 

Hansa-Brauerei 

buildings date back to 

1912 and are found in 

the Brewery Museum. 

Learn more about 

Dortmund’s enduring 

love for beer, and drink 

a few pints yourself 

(16 Steigerstrasse). 

ESCAPE The historic 

Zechenexpress train 

links the main station 

with various industrial 

mine museums and 

other key sights in the 

surrounding area. Take 

the kids to see German 

Santa and listen to 

traditional carols and 

poems onboard. 

Jeroen van Marle 

Dubrovnik 

Croatia 


CURRENCY Kuna (HRK) 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI 

The 30-minute 

trip to the centre 

costs about HRK200. 

Buses depart 

shortly after fl ights 

arrive. Tickets: HRK35. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Oliva 

(5 Lucarica, tel: 324 

594) Tucked away in 

an alley off the Stradun, 

Oliva offers pizza by 

the slice or a full menu 

of classic, inexpensive 

Italian goodies. 

UP TO €30 

Sesame (Dante 

Alighieria) Expect 

a classy interior and 

superb cuisine. You 

can’t go wrong with any 

dishes on this menu, 

but the lamb in dill 

sauce is a particularly 

good option. 

UP TO €50 

Dubrovacki Kantun 

(5 Boškoviceva ulica, 

tel: 331 911) Both meat 

lovers and vegetarians 


can sample the 

outstanding traditional 

dishes on offer, along 

with a splash of wine. 

EXCLUSIVE Bota 

Šare (Mali Ston, 

tel: 754 482) In a town 

known for outstanding 

fresh seafood, one 

of the standout 

restaurants in Mali Ston 

is this family-owned 

establishment, serving 

up consistently 

excellent fresh mussels, 

oysters and fi sh. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY SkyBar 

(1 Marojice Kaboge, 

tel: 091 220 2094) 

A recent addition to 

the Old Town’s list 

of hangouts, SkyBar 

serves a solid 

selection of fantastic 

drinks and food. 

LIVE MUSIC 

Living Room (7 Ante 

Starcevica) This 

café’s casual and 

refi ned atmosphere 

gets more animated 

when live jazz acts hit 

the small stage at the 

front of the room. 

LATE & LIVELY 

King Richard’s Pub 

(Josipa Kosora, tel: 020 

333 733) In this 

venue, head upstairs 

for relaxed drinks 

and conversation or 

venture downstairs for 

music and karaoke. 

Open till 4am. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP If you’re in 

the market for unique 

head wear, look no 

further than designer 

Marina Grabovac 

Ronchi’s Dubrovnik 

shop, Ronchi. She 

Dr. med. Dr.med. dent. Maick Griebenow 

Facharzt für Mund-Kiefer-Gesichtschirurgie / ästhetische Gesichtschirurgie 

Implantologie – Schönheitsoperationen - Faltenbehandlung 

Brüderweg 13 – 44135 Dortmund – Tel.: 0231/5860367 

www.kiefer-gesichtschirurg.de – praxis-drdrgriebenow@web.de 

uses traditional 

handcrafting methods 

to create high quality 

hats that are durable 

and fun (2 Lucarica). 

SEE On 19 December 

the Dubrovnik 

Tourist Board and 

the Dubrovnik 

Symphony Orchestra 

are ready to help 

you get in the holiday 

mood with an 

evening of traditional 

Christmas songs at 

the Christmas Gala 

Concert, starting at 

8pm at Fort Revelin. 

GO Only 8km from 

Dubrovnik, Kupari 

is a 17th-century 

village which offers 

postcard-esque scenery 

replete with sunshine, 

blue skies and gently 

swaying palm trees. 

It may not be hot, but 

it’s still a beautiful 

place for a walk. 

ESCAPE Kojan 

Koral is just 20 

minutes from 

Dubrovnik and offers 

a variety of activities 

for horse lovers of all 

ages and skill levels. 

For those who prefer 

wheels to legs, 4x4 

rentals are available 

to drive around and 

see the sights. 

NO WAY! 

Durovic Cave is 

located 25m 

underneath Dubrovnik 

airport’s runway. It 

has archaeological 

fi nds dating back to 

the Bronze Age, and 

was used as a shelter 

during the 1991 

Homelands War. 

Chad Phillips / 

In Your Pocket


Düsseldorf 

Germany 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 






centre is €20. 

Trains to Düsseldorf 

Hauptbahnhof 

leave roughly every 10 


BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Würzbar 

(79 Oberkasselerstrasse, 

tel: 0211 165 0816) This 

deli-shop has a delicious 

lunch menu. The menu 

changes weekly but it’s 

always guaranteed to be 

fresh and full of fl avour. 

UP TO €30 Muggel (4 

Dominikanerstrasse, tel: 

0211 554 182) Expect 

great food all day, but 

the breakfast menu is 

particularly good. Enjoy 

the full English or extrahealthy 

muesli. 

UP TO €50 

Roberts Bistro 

(2 Wupperstrasse, tel: 

0211 304 821) A bistro 

popular with everyone in 

the city. You can’t book 

in advance or pay with 

credit card but you can 

expect sensational food. 

EXCLUSIVE Berens 

am Kai (16 Kaistrasse, 

tel: 0211 300 6750) 

At this sleek, gourmet 

palace with stunning 

interiors and attention 

to detail, try something 

unusual, such as the 

lobster with Iberian pork. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY 

Café Schwan 

(2 Mühlenstrasse, 

tel: 0211 136 5387) 

This cosy café serves 

up tasty cheesecake 

and top-class coffee. 

There’s also a delicious 

breakfast menu. 

LIVE MUSIC Engel 

(33 Bolkerstrasse, tel: 

0211 862 9726) If you’re 

after great rock, this is 

the place to be. Engel is 

a cool bar boasting live 

bands and party nights. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Pretty Vacant 

(8 Mertensgasse) Not 

your typical club – 

Pretty Vacant is low key, 

yet loud and eclectic. 

You can catch live DJs 

every night and dance 

the night away. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Mustard lovers 

will be in heaven at 

the museum-shop of 

Dusseldorf’s famous 

mustard – Löwensenf. 

Visit the museum at 29 

Bergerstrasse and taste 

some of the legendary 

‘senf for yourself. 

SEE Catch Wilhelm 

Sasnal’s fi rst 

comprehensive 

exhibition outside his 

native Poland at the 

K21. Sasnal is one of the 

most celebrated artists 

to emerge from Eastern 

Europe (until 11 January, 

1 Ständehausstrasse). 

GO You can’t escape 

the Christmas markets 

in December, but why 

would you want to? 

Find great food, 

tasty glühwein and 

an amazing array of 

handmade wares. 

ESCAPE Travel an 

hour north of the city to 

Xanten, which boasts 

Germany’s largest 

archaeological park. 

Check out the museum, 

and the beautifully 

reconstructed Roman 

amphitheatre and 

temple (xanten.de). 

TAXI TAXI 

RELEXA, 

RATINGEN CITY 

★ ★ ★ ★ ★ 

Enjoy stunning 

rooftop views 

from the bar of 

this stylish hotel. 

Relax in the excellent 

spa area before 

dining at the in-house 

restaurant, Boulevard. 




ASAHI 

HOTEL IN DÜSSELDORF 

Situated right in the heart of Düsseldorf 

A short walk to the main train station & 

10-15 minutes to Düsseldorf airport 

NO WAY! 

Dusseldorf’s Killepitsch 

liqueur is said to contain 

around 90 different 

types of herbs and fruit, 

plus an alcohol content 

of more than 42%! 

Gaby Pinkner/ 

rhinemagazine.com 

East Midlands 

UK 


CURRENCY £ 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





The fare to Derby 

is about £26, 

Nottingham £28 and 

Leicester £37. 

The Skylink goes to 

all three cities every 


Derby £3; Nottingham 

£5; and Leicester £6. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Belle and 

Jerome (33–35 Central 

Avenue, West Bridgford, 

tel: 0115 981 7070) Enjoy 

good coffee, a glass of 

wine or dinner at one of 

the newer bistro-cafés 

in this affl uent, south 

Nottingham suburb. 

UP TO €30 Chequers 

at Woolsthorpe (Main 

Street, Woolsthorpe by 

Belvoir, near Grantham, 

tel: 01476 870 701) This 

17th-century country 

dining pub is great for 

a glass of wine and an 

upmarket, cosy Sunday 

lunch. If roasts aren’t 

your thing, try the 

homemade tagliatelle 

with ceps, tarragon 

and truffl e cream. 

UP TO €50 

The Living Room 

(7 High Pavement, 

Nottingham, tel: 0115 

988 6870) If you want to 

do some star-spotting 

and enjoy dishes like 21day 

aged beef fi llet, this 

is the place to be. 

EXCLUSIVE 

Hambleton Hall 

(Oakham, Rutland, tel: 

01572 756 991) This 

country house hotel is 

a dead-cert for opulent 

dining, sat next to an 

idyllic lake. Michelinstarred 

chef Aaron 

Patterson sources local 

ingredients, and 

menu choices include 

hare Wellington. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Chino 

Latino (41 Maid Marian 

Way, Nottingham, tel: 

0115 947 7444) Perfect 

for post work drinks, 

this bar and pan-Asian 

restaurant has a great 

selection of early 

evening meals and 

a varied drinks menu. 


Maze (257 Mansfi eld 

Road, Nottingham, tel: 

0115 947 5650) Ryan 

Adams and Nick 

Harper have previously 

rocked this venue. Call 

ahead to fi nd out this 

month’s live acts. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Firebug (1 Millstone 

Lane, Leicester, tel: 0116 

255 1228) A central 

location for drinking and 

live music, with nightly 

cocktail hours and a 

4am closing time on 

Fridays and Saturdays. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP The antithesis 

of department-store 

shopping is KiosKiosK, 

a portable “pop-up 

shop” designed by Red 

or Dead founder Wayne 

Hemingway. It sells 

unique design items by 

local, young creative 

companies (Pelham 

Street, Nottingham). 

SEE Join in the 

Ghostwatch special at 

the haunted Belgrave 

Hall Museum, Leicester, 

on the night of 23 

December. Booking is 

essential and it costs 

£40, but it’s well worth 

it for a spooky evening 

(Church Road, tel: 

0116 253 2569). 

GO QUAD is Derby’s 

eye-catching cinema, 

gallery, workshop and 

exhibition space. Hide 

away from the cold in 

the cinema offering 

both Hollywood and 

independent fi lms 

(Market Place, Derby, 

tel: 01332 290 606). 

ESCAPE Enjoy the 

stark winter beauty of 

Attenborough Nature 

Reserve in south 

Nottingham. After a 

walk around the watery 

landscape, get warmed 

up in the solar-powered 

Nature Centre with a 

hot drink (Barton Lane, 

tel: 0115 972 1777). 

NO WAY! 

Gardener Joseph 

Paxton, from Derbyshire 

and former head 

gardener of the 

Chatsworth Estate 

was the man behind 

New York’s famous 

Central Park. 

Mark Patterson 

T: +49(0)211-361 23 050 

E: reservation@hotel-asahi.com 

www.hotel-asahi.com

Edinburgh 

UK 


CURRENCY £ 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 


desk on arrival for 

easyJet infl ight rates. 

Holiday Taxis 

(easyjet.holiday 




TAXI 

The 25-minute 

journey to 

Edinburgh costs £15. 

The Airlink 100 

service goes to 

Waverley Bridge in the 

centre of Edinburgh. 

Tickets: £6 open return. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Café at 

the Palace (Palace of 

Holyrood House) 

A spacious café in the 

mews of the Queen’s 

Edinburgh residence, 

where you can tuck 

into delicious, homebaked 

goodies. 

UP TO €30 

L’Artichaut (14 Eyre 

Place, tel: 0131 558 

1608) The application 

of French techniques 

to vegetarian cuisine 

works a treat in this 

friendly restaurant. 

UP TO €50 

Wedgwood (267 

Canongate, tel: 0131 558 

8737) A real gem on the 

Royal Mile, this elegant 

restaurant serves 

Scottish cuisine with an 

international twist. 

EXCLUSIVE 21212 

(3 Royal Terrace, 

tel: 0131 523 1030) 

Michelin-starred chef 

Paul Kitching brings 

wit and invention to a 

fi nely tuned menu. The 

decadent interior will 

tempt you to linger over 

another bottle of wine. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Banter 

(85–87 Fountainbridge, 

tel: 0131 228 8793) 

A laidback bar just off 

Lothian Road, Banter is 

great for lounging with 

a coffee or enjoying 

a meal with your pint. 

LIVE MUSIC Electric 

Circus (36–39 Market 


4224) A vibrant venue 

with touring and local 

bands playing. Recent 

refurbishment has 

provided new, private 

karaoke rooms. 

THE 

GLASSHOUSE 

★ ★ ★ ★ ★ 

This luxurious hotel’s 

individually styled 

rooms come with 

wooden fl oors, fl oorto-ceiling 

windows 

and extremely 

comfortable beds. The 

hotel is a short walk 

from Princes Street. 



LATE & LIVELY 

Medina (45–47 Lothian 

Street) Open till 3am 

nightly, this Moroccanthemed 

club below 

Negociants attracts 

top name DJs. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP There are party 

frocks, special outfi ts 

and unique accessories 

at Armstrong’s, 

Edinburgh’s biggest 

vintage and retro 

clothing emporium 

(83 The Grassmarket). 

SEE Scottish 

pantomimes are famous 

for being big and brash, 

and Edinburgh’s 2009 

edition, Robinson 

Crusoe and the 

Caribbean Pirates at 

King’s, promises to be 

no different (King’s 

Theatre, 2 Leven Street). 

GO East Princes Street 

Gardens turn into 

‘Winter Wonderland’ 

for the festive season, 

with a fair, Christmas 

market, big ferris wheel 

and magical ice-rink. 

ESCAPE The Rosslyn 

Chapel is just 11km 

south of Princes Street 

(take bus number 15), 

but the ornate carvings 

of pagan “Green Men” 

are a million miles 

from Edinburgh’s 

classical architecture. 

NO WAY! 

The huge Christmas 

tree on the Mound, 

traditionally given to 

Edinburgh by the 

people of Hordaland, 

Norway, is now 

grown in the Scottish 

Borders to reduce its 

carbon footprint. 

Thom Dibdin 

Faro 

Portugal 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI 



Eva buses 

go to various 

destinations. It’s a 20minute 

journey to Faro. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Casa da 

Igreja (Cacela Velha, 

Tavira) An evening-only 

restaurant specialising 

in oysters, picked daily 

by the owners of the Ria 

Formosa lagoon, just 

below the cliff-top where 

this gem is hidden. 

UP TO €30 Atlantico 

(30 Rua General 

Humberto Delgado, 

tel: 289 562 098) This 

traditional restaurant 

has been a local 

institution for 30 years. 

The food has hardly 

changed because it 

doesn’t need to – expect 

tasty, rustic creations. 

UP TO €50 Piri Piri 

(Sheraton Algarve, 

Falesia, tel: 289 500 


100) There’s a new 

look and menu for this 

hotel-based favourite 

with a modern take on 

the Portuguese spice 

theme, from grilled spicy 

beef to piri-piri chocolate 

mousse. They even have 

a chilli sauce sommelier! 

EXCLUSIVE The 

Ocean (Vila Vita Parc, 

Porches, tel: 282 310 

100) Take in stunning 

sea views from this 

gourmet hotel resort, 

where Austrian chef 

Hans Neuner gives 

a Germanic twist to 

locally caught produce. 

Try the mussels with 

pumpkin and caramel. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Pickwick’s 

Tavern (Praia Olhos 

d’Agua) An English pub 

with a sense of humour 

– they have a “husband 

crèche” where the girls 

can leave their men to 

have a drink, while they 

hit the nearby shops. 

LIVE MUSIC Santo 

Estevao Town Hall 

(Tavira, tel: 281 

320 500) The local 

municipality hosts an 

interesting and varied 

selection of Portuguese, 

Brazilian and world 

music concerts at 

the weekends 

throughout winter. 

LATE & LIVELY Casa 

do Cerro (Cerro da 

Piedade, Albufeira) 

A Moorish-themed club 

with a dramatic hilltop 

setting, bustling bar 

and pulsating music. 

Cool off away from 

the crowds on one of 

the outside terraces 

– Algarve winters are 

milder than most. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP The awardwinning 

Veneza wine 

shop now ships its 

renowned products 

throughout Europe. 

Get to the store before 

the boat sets sail and 

sample its superb range 

of Portuguese wines 

(Mem Moniz, Paderne). 

SEE The only “snow” 

you’ll see in the Algarve 

is at Portimao’s ice rink. 

There are also New 

Year’s Eve parties with 

live music, fi reworks and 

gourmet food in Tavira, 

Vale do Lobo, Quinta do 

Lago, Faro, Albufeira, 

Portimao and Lagos. 

GO Guia has been 

smartened up: but 

it’s the fantastic 

choice of restaurants 

in the Algarve’s city 

of chicken that will 

continue to draw most 

visitors – as well as 

the Algarve Shopping 

retail complex. 

ESCAPE Odeceixe, on 

the Alentejo border, is 

the Algarve’s furthestfl 

ung outpost (about 

75 minutes from Faro) 

and one of its prettiest 

towns. Eat, shop, take 

photos, and then blow 

away the cobwebs with 

a walk on one of its two 

spectacular beaches. 

NO WAY! 

The traditional 

Portuguese equivalent 

of Christmas pudding 

is bolo rei (king’s cake), 

a wreath-shaped fruit 

brioche. Whoever fi nds 

the broad bean hidden 

inside has to pay for 

next year’s cake! 

Paul Rouse/ 

inspirationsalgarve.com


Fuerteventura 

Spain 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 






Corralejo is €60 

(35 minutes), Caleta de 

Fuste €15 (10 minutes) 

and Costa Calma €90 

(45 minutes). 

Route 3 goes from 

Puerto del Rosario 

to El Castillo (Caleta 

de Fuste) Tickets: 

€1.40. Route 6 goes to 

Corralejo every hour, on 

the hour. Tickets: €3.70. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Danny’s 

Bar and Restaurant (9 

Calle Cerco Don Pablo, 

Villaverde, tel: 928 868 

163) Expect quality food 

at reasonable prices at 

this convivial eatery. 


Davola (21 Calle 

Iglesia, Corralejo, tel: 

928 537 297) This 

contemporary Basque 


creative regional dishes 

– try the roasted duck 

foie gras and fi nish with 

goxua, a Basque caramel 

sponge dessert. 

EXCLUSIVE El Jardin 

de la Ermita (1 Calle 

Los Artistas, La Oliva) 

Situated in a converted 

monastery with 

Moroccan-style décor, 

dine on innovative 

tapas in sumptuous 

surrounds. Order the 

chef’s sample menu 

for a memorable 

eating experience. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY DJ’s 

Lounge Bar (Oasis 

Tamarindo Centre, 

Corralejo) Sit back, relax 

and order a drink at 

this stylish, comfortable 

and friendly bar. 

LIVE MUSIC Rock 

Island Bar (8 Calle 

Crucero Baleares, 

Corralejo, tel: 928 535 

346) You’re guaranteed 

a fun night here with live 

acoustic music every 

night, ranging from Irish 

folk to blues and rock. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Flicks (Centro 

Comercial Atlantico, 

Corralejo) Sing your 

heart out at this karaoke 

bar with a touch of class. 

Think you’ve got what it 

takes? Enter the weekly 

Fli-X-Factor competition 

and you could win 

some super prizes. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP El Campanario 

in Corralejo is the best 

place on the island for 

Christmas shopping. At 

the daily artisan market 

you’ll fi nd local produce 

and handmade goods. 


December the northern 

towns of the island will 

host two bike races 

over the tough sand 

dunes. The 6th is 

a charity race but on 7th 

it gets serious, with the 

professional race. 

GO The Atlantico 

Centre in Caleta is 

a great place to spend 

an afternoon. Browse 

through the shops, play 

tenpin bowling or catch 

a fi lm at the cinema. 

ESCAPE Take the 

glass-bottomed boat 

from Corralejo to Lobos 

Island and enjoy a day 

in this beautiful natural 

park. Climb to the top 

of the volcano for 

stunning views. 

TAXI TAXI 

UP TO 

€30 

Bombay Masala 

(Calle Jesus Santana 

Machin, tel: 928 

537 680) The 

island’s best Indian 

restaurant boasts 

great service, 

superb cuisine and 

beautifully presented 

dishes, plus a 

children’s menu and 

free delivery service. 

CONTACTAGENCE IMMOBILIERE 

V E R B I E R 

tel. + 41 27 771 64 64 

email. verbier@contact-immobilier.ch 

www.contact-immobilier.ch 

NO WAY! 

German-born Gustav 

Winter built his home 

Villa Winter in the middle 

of Fuerteventura. The 

plot of land he bought 

is the same shape 

and dimensions as 

the island. 

Corinne Sellens 

Geneva 

Switzerland 


CURRENCY CHF 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI The journey takes 

15 minutes and 

costs CHF30–CHF50. 

Trains go to 

Cornavin station 

and the journey takes 10 

minutes. Tickets: CHF3 

one-hour; CHF7 one-day. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 La Vouivre 

(21 Rue des Pâquis, tel: 

022 731 8712) A popular 

café with an ornate, 

decadent interior. Dishes 

such as homemade 

soup and tasty cakes 

adorn the menu. 

UP TO €30 Pub le 

Ski Lodge (Troika piste, 

La Tania, France, tel: 

+33 (0)4 7908 8149) 

Famous for its great 

burgers, the ski lodge 

offers a wide menu of 

hearty food, perfect for 

pre- or post-skiing to 

satisfy huge appetites. 


des Paris (26 Rue du 

Mont Blanc, tel: 022 

732 8450) The menu 

hasn’t changed since 

1930 when the Café des 

Paris fi rst opened. Its 

signature dish is still the 

succulent entrecote with 

chips and green salad. 

EXCLUSIVE Le 

Vertig’O (11 Quai du 

Mont Blanc, tel: 022 

909 6066) Le Vertig’O 

boasts a magnifi cent 

setting overlooking 

the lake and fountain, 

matched only by its 

French gastronomic 

delights. Think roasted 

pigeon with violet 

artichokes and linecaught 

sea bass with 

chorizo-stuffed squid. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Olé Olé (11 

Rue de Fribourg, tel: 022 

731 3871) Super friendly 

staff serve tasty tapas 

and steaming coffee at 

this easygoing bar. 

LIVE MUSIC Sud des 

Alpes, AMR (10 Rue 

des Alpes, tel: 022 716 

5630) A jam-packed 

programme makes this 

a favourite hang-out 

for jazz lovers. Enjoy 

soothing tunes with 

a cocktail or beer. 


Lola (7 Rue Richemont, 

tel: 022 731 3237) 

Tucked down a back 

street, this loft-style 

club plays electro-pop 

and dance music till 

the early hours. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP The twice-weekly 

Plainpalais fl ea market 

attracts collectors 

and sellers from all 

over Switzerland and 

France. Locals love to 

rummage through old 

books, paintings, vintage 

clothing and magazines, 

as well as local craft stalls 

(Tuesday–Saturday, 

8am–5pm, 46 Boulevard 

Georges, Favon). 

SEE Don’t miss 

the Escalade annual 

celebration of Geneva’s 

victory against an attack 

by Savoyard soldiers 

on 11–13 December. 

Each year a large, torchbearing 

procession, 

dressed in period 

costume, proceeds 

through the dark streets 

of the old city. 

GO Geneva’s Old Town 

is packed with antique 

shops, galleries, chic 

boutiques and bistros. 

St Peter’s Cathedral has 

fantastic views from 

its north tower and the 

pretty Place du Bourg 

de Four is the city’s 

oldest square. 

ESCAPE Just over 90 

minutes from Geneva, 

the gorgeous alpine 

resort of Nendaz, in the 

heart of the 4 Vallées ski 

domain, offers 412km 

of ski runs across varied 

terrain and 92 ski lifts. 

It also boasts perfectly 

positioned mountain 

restaurants and 

a buzzing nightlife scene. 

Nendaz is perfect for a 

few days’ escape into the 

mountains (nendaz.ch). 

NO WAY! 

Geneva is home to 

some 200 international 

organisations – including 

the UN European 

headquarters, the World 

Health Organization 

(WHO), and the High 

Commission for 

Refugees (UNHCR). 

Celeste Neill-Duvoisin 

SWISS ALPS – Hotel for sale 

in la Tzoumaz-Verbier – lots of 

potential & a good opportunity. 

Come & visit us ! 

Tel. +41 27 306 16 37

*Minimum 5 days Portes du Soleil lift pass. Details available on www.portesdusoleil.com 

compression everyday: 

Main benefit: Compression 

Designed For: Everyday use & Travel 

Sports/Use: Preventative and regenerative, Working,Travel 

Features: Improved arterial circulation in the legs 

Order online: rohner-socks.com/shop (shipping worldwide) 

Abondance, Avoriaz, Châtel, 

La Chapelle d’Abondance, Les Gets, 

Montriond, Morzine, St Jean d’Aulps 

Champéry, Morgins, Torgon, 

Val-d’Illiez - Les Crosets - Champoussin 

Jacob Rohner AG, Balgach, Switzerland

DIRECTORY | SWITZERLAND 

A residence of exception with 

ecological performances for an 

alpine lifestyle in Switzerland 

Parc Rouvraie 3, 1018 Lausanne - SWITZERLAND 

Tel. +41 (0) 79 223 95 02 

Email. ophelie-camerlo@bluewin.ch 

www.le-cantarella.ch 

PLUS QU’UNE 

FORMATION, 

UN AVENIR 

... www.ehg.ch 

PROCHAINES RENTRÉES: RENTRÉES : 14 15 SEPTEMBRE MARS 2010 - 2009 20 SEPTEMBRE – 15 MARS 2010 

2010 

JOURNÉES PORTES-OUVERTES: PORTES-OUVERTES : 26 MERCREDI AOÛT 2009 27 JANVIER 2010

, , 

, , 

An authentic village in the heart 

of the Portes du Soleil region 

DIRECTORY | SWITZERLAND 

, 

, , , 

, 

,, 

FAMILY OFFER: 

10% DISCOUNT 

ON LES GETS / MORZINE 

FAMILY SKI-PASSES 

ALL WINTER SEASON 

2009/1010 

EASTER...THE MOUNTAINS BELONG TO YOUR CHILDREN! 

Buy 1 adult ski-pass & receive 1 child ski-pass free! Stay from 03/04/2010 

For bookings or information please visit www.lesgets.com/reservation 

Alternatively, please email reservation@lesgets.com or telephone +33 (0)4 50 75 80 51 

L ooking for an exceptional property 

to rent in the Lake Geneva area ? 

RENT IN SWITZERLAND 

Contact us ! 

Genève + 41 22 809 69 67 Lausanne + 41 21 345 11 50 

Nyon Vevey Montreux www.deRham-SIR.com 

, 

,


Gibraltar 

UK Territory 


CURRENCY £ 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI A taxi to Casemates 

Square costs £5. 

Routes 3, 9 and 

10 run roughly 

every 10 minutes to 

destinations including 

Casemates Square, 

Catalan Bay and Europa 

Point. Tickets: £0.60. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Casa Pepe 

(18 Queensway Quay, tel: 

200 46967) A Spanishstyle 

bar complete 

with a mounted bull’s 

head on the wall. Enjoy 

traditional tapas, such 

as fresh tortilla, crumbly 

Manchego cheese and 

spicy prawns. 

UP TO €30 Charlie’s 

Tavern (2 Admiral’s 

Walk, tel: 200 79993) 

Charlie’s serves reliably 

good food in cheerful, 

informal surroundings. 

The menu is 

a combination of 

English classic dishes, 

such as steaks and 

superb curries, from the 

chef’s native India. 

UP TO €50 Ipanema 

(11 Ocean Village) 

A sizzling new Brazilian 

restaurant in the port 

opened by the owner 

of popular UK-based 

Argentinean chain, 

Gaucho. The menu has a 

wide choice of meat, fi sh 

and vegetarian dishes. 

EXCLUSIVE La 

Mamala (Catalan Bay, 

tel: 200 72373) Mamala 

is a long-time favourite 

seafood restaurant, with 

tanks of live lobsters and 

a suitably nautical décor. 

Enjoy delicious plates of 

locally caught seafood. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Celebrity 

Wine Bar (Ocean 

Village, tel: 200 40972) 

The outside terrace at 

this classy restaurant 

and wine bar is 

a popular venue to idle 

over a long, cool cocktail 

before shimmying on to 

the late-night bars on 

nearby Casemates. 

LIVE MUSIC Jazz 

Night (O’Callaghan 

Elliott Hotel, Governor’s 

Square, tel: 200 70500) 

Every Thursday sees 

a foot-stomping jazz 

night at the Elliott, one 

of Gibraltar’s classiest 

hotels. Choose a cocktail 

from the long list and 

enjoy the dulcet chords 

of the double bass. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Gala Casino (Ocean 

Village, tel: 200 

76666) This bright and 

boisterous site is open 

till 5am and boasts 

game rooms, gaming 

tables, two restaurants 

and a bar. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP The ICC 

Shopping Centre 

really is a one-stop 

shopaholic’s heaven 

with a combination of 

stores that includes 

high street favourites 

alongside Moroccan 

handicraft shops. 

SEE The Rock’s 

botanical gardens are 

a tranquil haven, just 

a few minutes stroll from 

the commercial clamour 

of Main Street. Join the 

monthly free tour of this 

mature and beautiful 

green space on 12 

December at 10.30am. 

GO Take a 90-minute 

dolphin-spotting cruise 

around the Bay of 

Gibraltar. You are almost 

certainly guaranteed to 

see these extraordinary 

mammals, plus 

an informative 

commentary provides 

entertainment as you’re 

waiting for the creatures 

to appear (Dolphin 

World, gibraltarinfo.gi). 

ESCAPE Head across 

the border to Algeciras, 


Gibraltar, and hop on 

the old steam train 

that winds its way up 

into the mountains. 

Enjoy a whole day 

sightseeing, eating 

and wandering round 

these little villages. 

TAXI TAXI 

WINTERFEST 

GLASGOW 

2009 

NO WAY! 

Celebrities including 

Sean Connery, Roger 

Moore and John 

Lennon all got married 

on Gibraltar. Souvenir 

shops sell copies of the 

late Beatle’s wedding 

certifi cate for a fi ver! 

Josephine Quintero 

Glasgow 

UK 


CURRENCY £ 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 






Glasgow is £17. 

The Glasgow Flyer 

takes 25 minutes 

to the city centre and 

runs every 15 minutes. 

Tickets: £6.50 return. 

BON APPETIT 


Tearoom @ The 

Butterfl y and the Pig 

(153 Bath Street, tel: 

0141 221 7711) Rest 

your weary feet in this 

new tearoom with 

a selection of teas, 

cakes and sandwiches. 

UP TO €30 Cail 

Bruich West (725 Great 

Western Road, tel: 0141 

334 6265) Cail Bruich 

means eat well in 

Gaelic, and here they 

make sure that you do! 

The restaurant offers 

the best of modern 

Scottish cuisine. 


Ubiquitous Chip (12 

Ashton Lane, tel: 0141 

www.winterfestglasgow.com 

334 5007) With superb 

dishes ranging from 

venison haggis to fresh 

local fi sh, you won’t be 

surprised to discover 

that the Ubiquitous Chip 

won The Good Food 

Guide Restaurant of the 

Year 2009 in Scotland. 

EXCLUSIVE 

Blythswood Square 

Town House (11 

Blythswood Square, 

tel: 0141 208 2458) 

Five-star hotelrestaurant 

located within 

a splendidly restored 

building dating back 

to 1823. Enjoy dishes 

such as Loch Duart 

salmon with lentils, 

fennel and quince. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY The Gate 

(62 Trongate, tel: 0141 


offers a casual drinking 

experience, combining 

comfortable couches 

with an impressive wine 

and cocktail menu. 

SANDYFORD 

HOTEL 

★ ★ ★ ★ ★ 

Set on Glasgow’s 

vibrant Sauchiehall 

Street, The Sandyford 

is an affordable choice 

for a Scottish break. 

Fill up in the morning 

with its legendary 

full-cooked breakfasts, 

included in the price. 



LIVE MUSIC 13th 

Note (50–60 King 


1638) Live sets are 

played at this basement 

bar seven nights a week. 


Arches (253 Argyle 


1000) The Arches is 

a city legend, with 

a capacity of 3,000. It 

attracts top-name DJs 

spinning tunes to strut 

your stuff to. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Indulge yourself 

at the UK’s fi rst Versace 

store at The Italian 

Centre on John Street 

and Ingram Street (tel: 

0141 552 6099). 

SEE The Nutcracker is 

on at the Theatre Royal 


(tel: 0844 871 7647). 

GO One of the best 

ways to see Glasgow’s 

main attractions is 

aboard a sightseeing 

bus. Tours last around 

75 minutes and start 

at George Square (tel: 

0141 204 0444). 

ESCAPE Travel back 

in time to New Lanark’s 

wonderful conservation 

village and UNESCO 

World Heritage Site, 

featuring a fully restored 

18th-century cotton mill 

(newlanark.org). 

NO WAY! 

Scotland is famous for 

its whisky, also known 

as Scotch. But it’s 

commonly believed that 

whisky was fi rst created 

in Asia, distilled by monks 

in Ireland in the 1400s 

before reaching Scotland 

at the end of the century. 

Evelyn McKechnie 

a a flurry flurry of of 

festive festive fun! 

fun!

Gran Canaria 

Spain 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI 

The fare is €35 to 

the city centre. 

Route 60 

runs from 

6.50am–11.05pm. 

Tickets: €2.50 (Parque 

Santa Catalina); €1.95 

(Parque San Telmo). 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Cofradia 

de los Pescadores de 

Arguineguin (Avenida 

del Muelle, Arguineguín, 

tel: 928 735 956) A 

hidden gem run by the 

fi sherman’s association 

– so you know you’ll 

fi nd the freshest fi sh at 

the best prices here. 


Panacota (6 Calle Dean 

Pedro Jimenez, Telde) 

This fun, family-run 

restaurant specialises in 

delicious barbecuegrilled 

meats. Try the 

succulent assortment 

served with Canarianstyle 

potatoes and 

local wine. 

UP TO €50 Novillo 

Precoz (9 Calle 

Portugal, Las Palmas, 

tel: 928 221 659) 

Savour mouth-watering 

steaks imported from 

Argentina and cooked 

to your specifi cation. 

Be brave and order 

the solomillo (black 

pudding), it will melt on 

your tongue. 

EXCLUSIVE La 

Taberna Timanfaya 

(Avenida de Veneguera, 

Puerto Rico, tel: 928 725 

453) With art exhibitions 

and exquisite food, this 

charming restaurant 

is an excellent choice. 

During the festive 

period they offer 

a delicious, traditional 

British Christmas dinner 

with all the trimmings. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Café Triana 

(Avenida Triana, tel: 928 

367 601) Relaxing spot 

for a little chilling out 

after some heavy-duty 

Christmas shopping 

in the centre of Las 

Palmas. Nurse a beer 

while overlooking the 

beautiful tree-lined 

Avenida Triana. 


Great Garbos 

(Carretera General Del 

Sur, San Agustin, tel: 

928 157 060) Expect a 

fi rst-class show that will 

entertain you all night, 

with fantastic costumes 

and outstanding 

performances at Great 

Garbos’ Dinner Show. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Avalon (Centro 

Comercial Metro, Playa 

del Ingles) One of 

Gran Canaria’s hottest 

nightspots, you can 

choose to go wild with 

the latest sounds and 

fantastic laser shows, or 

relax in the sumptuous 

chill-out lounge. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Bazar Ani is 

a curious shop with 

everything from lingerie 

to cosmetics, and it’s 

the best place for unique 

Christmas decorations 

(San Fernando, tel: 

928 761 093). 

SEE Go to Veneguera 

on the evening of 25 

December for the 

traditional Nativity play. 

Entirely in Spanish, it’s a 

fascinating insight into 

how the locals celebrate 

this religious holiday. 

GO You’ll feel as if you 

are fl oating above the 

clouds in Santa Brígida, 

a picturesque town 

situated 500m above 

sea level. Stroll through 

narrow streets lined 

with eucalyptus and 

explore the Old Town. 

ESCAPE Reach the 

neighbouring island 

of Tenerife by boat in 

about an hour. The 

idyllic Puerto de la Cruz 

is overlooked by snowcovered 

Mount Teide 

and boasts a wide range 

of sights, shops and 

restaurants. Walk along 

the seafront and stop in 

one of the beautiful cake 

shops before boarding 

the boat back. 

NO WAY! 

Columbus sailed from 

Las Palmas in 1492 

crossing the Atlantic 

to discover the 

Americas, and founding 

Havana, Cuba. 

Jan Cooney 

Grenoble 

France 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 






is about €80. 

Catch the Altitude 

line bus to the 

city centre. Tickets: 

€12.50 single. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Crêperie 

Cadet Rousselle (3 Rue 

Millet, tel: 04 7646 0224) 

This cosy restaurant 

serves the best crêpes 

in town. Follow with 

a scoop of Chartreusefl 

avoured ice cream. 

UP TO €30 A 

Confesse (1 Rue 

Sappey, tel: 04 7654 

1160) The 12 different 

kinds of fondue and 

levered bread basket 

fl oating above your head 

makes for a heavenly 

dining experience 

at A Confesse. 

UP TO €50 Caffé 

Forté (4 Place Lavalette, 

tel: 04 7603 2283) 

Caffé Forté’s theatrical 

décor and attentive 


service is only outdone 

by the surprisingly 

worldly menu. Order the 

tuna sashimi followed 

by beef carpaccio. 

EXCLUSIVE 

Auberge Napoleon 

7 Rue Montorge, tel: 04 

7687 5364) Foie gras 

covered in hazelnuts and 

Port jelly makes for 

a delicious starter at this 

restaurant that was good 

enough for Napoleon 

back in the day. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Le 365 

(3 Rue Bayard) This 

tucked-away spot 

has barrels for tables, 

glass-blown alembic 

lamps and old portraits 

on the walls. 

LIVE MUSIC MC2 

Bar (4 Rue Paul 

Claudel, tel: 04 7644 

0943) Every Friday and 

Saturday, technoheads 

hit the bar at the 

Maison de Culture for 

a string of lively gigs. 

Are you interested in advertising to 

4.5m passengers per month? 

Please contact our advertising sales team 

on 0044 (0) 207 613 8795 

LATE & LIVELY 

O’Callaghans 

(2 Place de Bérulle, 

tel: 04 7601 0566) 

A favourite with local 

characters, students and 

Anglophone expats alike, 

this Irish bar is always 

packed with people who 

enjoy an imperial pint. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Let the rich 

smell and beautiful 

bonbons seduce you at 

Chocolaterie Bochard 

(19 Rue Lesdiguières). 

SEE Don’t miss the 

popular Christmas 

market where local 

vendors line Place Victor 

Hugo, selling everything 

from delicious foie 

gras and oysters to 

handmade chocolates, 

wooden toys and 

Christmas gifts. 

GO The up-and-coming 

Saint Laurent quarter 

is well worth exploring. 

Stroll past 17th-century 

architecture on Rue 

Sappey, where the local 

brocante (fl ea) markets 

always yield an antique 

treasure or two. 

ESCAPE If a white 

Christmas you desire, 

get into the spirit with 

a husky-drawn sleigh 

through the village of 

Autrans, 40km from 

Grenoble in the Vercors 

mountains. Warm 

up with a steaming 

hot chocolate at the 

Brasserie Outrelans in 

the village square. 

NO WAY! 

Despite being the 

capital of the Alps, 

Grenoble is actually the 

fl attest city in France. 

Anya Pope 

00000 EasyJet Sales 4.5mil Banne1 1 11/11/09 17:01:54 

TAXI 

GOLF HOTEL 

BRIDES LES 

BAINS ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ 

With amazing views 

over the stunning 

Vanoise glaciers, this 

1920s-style hotel is an 

inviting place to relax 

or meet with friends 

or colleagues in the 

heart of Grenoble. 



holidays.easyJet.com.


Hamburg 

Germany 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 






city centre takes 

UP TO €50 

Restaurante Picasso 

(14 Rathausstrasse, tel: 

040 326 548) Popular 

for business lunches, 

this Spanish bistro in 

the city centre excels 

at daily tapas specials, 

fresh fi sh and tender 

Argentine beef. 

EXCLUSIVE Das 

Seepferdchen am 

Hafen (212 Grosse 

Elbstrasse, tel: 040 3861 

6749) Awash with cluedup 

thirtysomethings, this 

restaurant features the 

freshest catch of the day 

and white linen-covered 

tables punctuated 

with retro seats and 

communal benches. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Jacob’s 

Bar (401–403 

Elbchaussee, tel: 040 

822 550) With its 

warm, wood-panelled 

confi nes, the bar of the 

sumptuous Hotel Jacob 

lies along the River Elbe 

and features harbour 

panoramas and 

bespoke cocktails. 

LIVE MUSIC Elbe 76 

(60 Bismarkstrasse, tel: 

040 400 235) At this 

much-loved hangout in 

Hoheluft, the after-work 

crowd nip into this 

eclectically decorated 

basement that pulsates 

with a chill-out groove 

late into the night. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Club la Nuit (145B–D 

Grosse Elbstrasse, 

tel: 040 3803 7730) 

Decked out with a stateof-the-art 

sound system 

and the city’s crème 

de la crème, this is 

one of Hamburg’s 

hottest venues. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Escape the 

bracing winter chill by 

making for one of the 

many covered passages 

that lattice the city 

centre, including the 

Hamburger Hof, Alte 

Post, Bleichenhof and 

Alster arcades. 

SEE Join in the 

festivities at Hamburg’s 

Christmas markets, 

which kick off during 

the fi rst week of 

December. Among the 

best are those located 

at Gänsemarkt and 

Mönckebergstrasse; like 

the rest, they feature 

food stalls, wine stands 

and artisanal purveyors. 

GO The neorenaissance 

Rathaus, 

or city hall, has soaring 

towers, an awe-inspiring 

ornamental façade, 

a prominent clock tower 

and vast courtyard 

with a market. 

ESCAPE What else is 

there to do in Germany, 

except visit Christmas 

markets and enjoy hot 

sausages and mulled 

wine in the freezing 

cold? Lübeck, under an 

hour from Hamburg, 

has one of Germany’s 

best Christmas markets 

and is a must-visit in 

December. Dating back 

to the 12th century, 

this UNESCO World 

Heritage Site features 

one of Europe’s largest 

preserved Old Towns. 

TAXI TAXI 

20 minutes and costs 

about €22. 

S1 S-Bahn trains 

run every 10 

minutes from 4.29am 

until just after midnight 

on weekdays; and from 

7.30am at the weekend. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 

Alsterhaus (16–20 

Jungfernstieg, tel: 

040 3571 1246) Dine 

in the city’s premier 

department store which 

features a top-fl oor 

buffet food court as 

well as a Champagne 

and cheese bar. 

UP TO €30 

Abendmahl (6 Hein 

Köllisch Platz, tel: 040 

312 758) Situated in the 

heart of trendy Kiez, 

this convivial eatery 

serves price-wise 

international fare to 

colourful gentry. 

NO WAY! 

The port of Hamburg is 

Europe’s second-largest 

port and also one of its 

most historic, dating 

back some 820 years. 

Farhad Heydari 

Helsinki 

Finland 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 








Route 615 leaves 

for Rautatientori 



BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Mt. 

Everest (12A 

Luotsikatu, tel: 09 

622 1996) Simplydecorated 

Everest 

is an excellent lunch 

option, offering lots of 

vegetarian dishes made 

in Nepalese-Indian style 

with a Finnish twist. 

UP TO €30 Teatteri 

Wine and Deli (2 

Pohjoisespla, tel: 09 6128 

5000) Part of a large 

wine, dine and dance 

complex, this venue has 

minimalist interiors and 

serves up some of the 

best salads in the city. 

UP TO €50 Elite 

(22 Et Hesperiankatu, 

tel: 09 6128 5200) 

Bohemian Elite is a 

peaceful and upmarket 

joint, perfect for a quiet 

meal. The restaurant’s 

hearty classics such as 

tauno palo (steak with 

creamed onions) will 

keep your warm. 

EXCLUSIVE Savoy 

(14 Eteläesplanadi, 

tel: 09 6128 5300) 

Overlooking the 

beautiful Esplanadi, 

this restaurant has 

long been one of 

Helsinki’s favourites. 

Enjoy some of Finland’s 

best organic produce. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Bar 

Nolla (21 Pohjoinen 

Rautatienkatu, tel: 09 

440 120) This sleek and 

funky school-like café 

is a good place to catch 

up with friends before 

going to a club. 

LIVE MUSIC Bar 

Loose (21 Annankatu, 

tel: 09 586 1819) One 

of the main hangouts 

CHRISTMAS 

MARKET 

SHOP Under the 

red tents of St 

Thomas’ Christmas 

Market in Esplanadi 

Park, you can eat 

and shop to your 

heart’s content. 

Bursting with gift 

ideas, it’s perfect 

for last-minute 

presents. Pop along 

from 7–20 December. 

DON’T BE LOST FOR WORDS ON HOLIDAY! 

Download a mobile phrasebook for Italian, French, Spanish or German simply by texting: 

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*Guides cost £1.50 plus normal UK / roaming costs. Will work on most colour screen phones. Download requires internet connection. 

of the local rock’n’roll 

crowd, Bar Loose has 

always been a good 

alternative for those 

trying to avoid cheesy 

Christmas parties. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Cuba Cafe & Party 

Room (4 Erottajankatu) 

Trendy Cuba is quite 

a small nightclub with 

bright pop art interiors 

and some of the best 

mojitos in town. 

THIS MONTH 

SEE Catch the New 

Year’s Eve celebrations 

at the Senate Square. 

There’s children’s 

entertainment early 

on, followed by live 

musicians and dancers, 

and the grand fi nale 

is a fantastic fi rework 

display from 11pm. 

GO Helsinki’s most 

attractive district 

come Christmas is 

the brightly decorated 

Aleksanterinkatu. There’s 

a maze of streets which 

house numerous historic 

buildings and restaurants 

full of festive spirit. 

ESCAPE If enjoying 

Finland’s great 

outdoors at 0°C isn’t 

your cup of tea, relax 

in the tropically warm 

fountains, jacuzzis 

and saunas of Serena 

Aqua Park, just 20km 

from the city. There are 

plenty of activities for 

the kids too, with water 

slides and pools (10 

Nuijamiestentie, Espoo). 

NO WAY! 

The small fi shing 

town of Helsinki 

became Finland’s 

capital city in 1812. 

Evgenia Ivanova 

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Hurghada 

Egypt 


CURRENCY EGP 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI 

The fare to 

Sakalla is about 

EGP15, El Dahar 

EGP20 and to resorts 

south of Hurghada, it’s 

EGP25–EGP30. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 

Esplanada Sphinx 

(Esplanada Mall, Village 

Road, tel: 012 399 

0482) A relaxed and 

friendly restaurant 

offering reasonably 

priced food and drinks. 

UP TO €30 Café del 

Mar (Seatower Building, 

El Arosa Square, 

Sheraton Road, tel: 010 

071 6770) A huge variety 

of dishes from nachos 

to meatballs and shrimp 

sandwiches will fi ll you 

up for a week at the 

laidback surrounds of 

Café del Mar. 

UP TO €50 Thai 

Garden (Siva Grand 

Beach Resort, Village 

Road, tel: 065 344 

8351) Thai chefs cook 

dishes from a wideranging 

menu – the pad 

Thai and chicken curry 

are both highlights. 

EXCLUSIVE Le 

Deauville (Abu Tig 

Marina, El Gouna, tel: 

012 361 1647) An all-new 

menu offers food such as 

exquisite steak tartare. 

Great service and views 

across to the luxurious 

yachts in the marina. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Chez 

Sam (Esplanada Mall, 

Village Road) Located 

in the courtyard of the 

Esplanada Mall, enjoy 

pastries, fresh juice, ice 

creams and coffee. 

LIVE MUSIC Ministry 

of Sound (Hurghada 

International Marina, 

tel: 016 883 3550) Look 

out for the programme 

notices around town 

detailing the line up of 

international bands at 

this hot club. 

INTER- 

CONTINETNAL 

★ ★ ★ ★ ★ 

Nestled in Hurghada 

Bay, this hotel has 

been sympathetically 

designed to fi t in with 

its environment. It 

boasts its own private 

beach facing the 

Red Sea. Breakfast 



easyJet.com. 

The Magic of Winter 

LATE & LIVELY 

Friends Bar (Hurghada 

International Marina) 

Friends is a perfect spot 

to enjoy a cold beer with 

views over the marina 

and good music. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Al Nol offers local 

handicrafts, including 

cushion covers, light 

fi ttings, bags and 

accessories (Abu Tig 

Marina and Hurghada 

International Marina). 

SEE Although Egypt is 

a Muslim country, the 

locals like to celebrate 

Christmas. Festivities 

are likely to be more 

low-key than back 

at home, with hotels 

offering gala evening 

dinners after a day 

spent on the beach. 

GO The brand new 

Senzo Mall has a fi vescreen 

cinema and a 

tempting food court, plus 

a whole host of clothes 

and shoe shops (Safaga 

Road, senzomall.com). 

ESCAPE The port of El 

Quseir, 200km south of 

Hurghada, dates back 

to Roman times. The 

Fort which still stands 

today, was founded in 

1571 and a guided tour 

(EGP10) dips into the 

history of the town over 

the last 700 years. 

NO WAY! 

South of Cairo, the rest of 

Egypt’s annual rainfall is a 

mere 25–50mm – so the 

only chance of getting 

wet is in the pool, the Red 

Sea or the shower! 

Denise Fletcher 

Innsbruck 

Austria 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI 

A journey to the 

centre should 

cost €20. 

Bus F runs to 

the city every 15 


BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Moderne 

(16 Maria Theresien 

Strasse, tel: 0512 584 

848) The exhaustive 

menu here includes 

typical specialities such 

as cheese noodles 

with onions, a delicious 

selection of roasts, 

and nut pancakes with 

cream for dessert. 

UP TO €30 Bierwirt 

(2 Bichlweg, tel: 0512 

342 143) This family-run 

inn draws in the crowds 

with its traditional 

cuisine. Enjoy an 

excellent sirloin steak in 

these rustic settings. 

UP TO €50 Rumerhof 

(11 Bundesstrasse, tel: 

0512 262 215) Prepare 

yourself for regional 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

dishes with a touch 

of Mediterranean 

infl uence. Order pasta 

on a bed of rocket salad 

and accompany it with 

a glass of fruity Riesling. 

EXCLUSIVE 

Schöneck 

(6 Weiherburggasse, 

tel: 0512 272 728) 

Located in the hills 

above Innsbruck, 

this restaurant with 

spectacular views is 

ideal for a romantic 

dinner. Whether you 

order exquisite lobster or 

venison medallions, the 

dishes prepared are all 

works of perfection. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Konditorei 

Grossgasteiger (3 

Schneeburggstrasse, 

tel: 0512 282 880) 

Relax with a glass of 

Chardonnay and 

a piece of cake at the 

end of a long day in 

this charming spot. 

LIVE MUSIC Coffee 

Bar (18 Bleichenweg, tel: 

0512 369 323) The bar 

is particularly popular for 

its lively band contests 

– every Thursday night 

local bands of different 

genres compete against 

each other. 

LATE & LIVELY 

One Club 1 

(7 Höttingergasse, tel: 

0512 394 393) One 

of Innsbruck’s newer 

clubs, the One Club 1 

has already established 

itself as one of the best 

spots for electro and 

house music. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Shop for 

elegant and refi ned 

lingerie at Palmers. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Expect sophisticated 

design and great 

quality (41 Maria 

Theresien Strasse, tel: 

0512 587 424). 

SEE This month 

visit the Sammeln, 

Sammeln, Sammeln 

exhibition showcasing 

the newest acquisitions 

of the State Museum 

Ferdinandeum. The 

collection has been 

enriched by renaissance 

paintings by Hans Maler, 

precious 16th-century 

glass objects and other 

exhibits (Ferdinandeum, 

1 Museumstrasse, tel: 

0512 59489). 

GO Located amid 

a wonderful alpine 

landscape, Innsbruck’s 

Christmas market 

with its fairytale-like 

atmosphere is 

a charming place to be. 

Until 23 December you 

can spend an afternoon 

browsing the stalls, 

tasting the delicious 

food and sipping 

warming glüwein 

(Market Place). 

ESCAPE Catch the 

train and visit Bregenz. 

Situated at Lake 

Constance, the city 

boasts both beautiful 

landscapes and many 

cultural sights. Wrap 

up warm, it’s pretty 

chilly at this time of 

year but well worth the 

two-hour journey. 

NO WAY! 

The Italian statistician 

Bruno de Finetti 

(1906–85), known 

for the operational 

subjective conception 

of probability, was 

born in Innsbruck. 

Jovana Urosevic 

 

 

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Inverness 

UK 


CURRENCY £ 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI Central Highland 

Taxis will take you 

to the city centre for 

£9.50–£13. 

Jet has a frequent 

service to 

Inverness and Nairns 

(thejet.co.uk). 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 River Café 

and Restaurant (10 

Bank Street, tel: 01463 

714 884) Overlooking 

the River Ness, this 

modern restaurant 

offers good views and 

even better food – from 

tasty lunchtime snacks 

to special three-course 

evening meals. 


Waterside (19 Ness 

Bank, tel: 01463 233 

065) Chef Lara McLeod 

and her team source the 

best local ingredients 

and freshly prepare 

dishes with imagination 

– the menu is full of 

homemade delights. 

UP TO €50 Ash 

(Station Square, 

Academy Street, tel: 

01463 231 926) The 

menu at recently 

opened Ash boasts 

an array of traditional 

Scottish dishes with 

a contemporary twist. 

The cannon of venison 

saddle on a potato 

and herb purée with 

redcurrant and port jus 

is sensational. 

EXCLUSIVE Café 

1 (75 Castle Street, 

tel: 01463 226 200) 

If you’re looking for 

a memorable festive 

celebration, Café 1 

is ideal. Compliment 

excellent food with 

a bottle from the 

extensive international 

wine list – connoisseurs 

will be spoilt for choice. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY The 

Glenalbyn (2–4 Young 

Street, tel: 01463 231 

637) If you fancy 

a few lazy afternoon 

drinks, this is the spot. 

This chilled-out venue 

transforms into a lively 

bar on a Saturday night. 


Fluke Inn (Culcabock 

Road, tel: 01463 220 

957) This is a cracking 

traditional pub with 

a friendly atmosphere 

and good pub grub, plus 

a live DJ at the weekend. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Love2Love (9–21 

Castle Street, tel: 01463 

233 322) Love2Love is 

the place to go if you 

like to party. Book 

ahead and access 

the VIP area to sip 

Champagne and boogie 

into the early hours. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Quirky old 

bookshop Leakey’s 

wouldn’t look out of 

place in a fairytale. 

Originally a church, it’s 

piled fl oor to ceiling with 

rare and interesting 

literature (Church 

Street, Greyfriars Hall, 

tel: 01463 239 947). 

SEE At the Ness 

Island’s Christmas 

Lights Show, children 

get the chance to have 

their photographs 

taken with Santa at 

Rudolph’s Christmas 

Party and there are free 

rides on the Whin Park 

Railway throughout 

the afternoon, plus the 

fantastic lights. Open 

18–20 December. 

GO For years 

Wildwoodz Paintball 

Park has been the host 

of many a fun day out. 

It’s situated on the 

stunning Black Isle 

and is renowned 

as the premier 

paintball venue in the 

Highlands (wildwoodz 

paintball.co.uk). 

ESCAPE The 16thcentury 

Moniack Castle 

is home to Scotland’s 

premier winery. 

Moniack produces 

liqueurs, country wines 

and a selection of 

preserves and sauces. 

Take part in a fascinating 

guided tour around 

the castle and factory 

(tel: 01463 831 283, 

moniackcastle.co.uk). 

TAXI TAXI 

NO WAY! 

Descending to 

310m, Loch Morar in 

Inverness-shire is the 

deepest lake in Britain. 

Beverley Tricker 

Istanbul 

Turkey 


CURRENCY Lira (YTL) 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI A taxi to Taksim 

Square costs 

about YTL60–YTL70. 

E3 buses run 

hourly to 4 Levent 

(Tickets: YTL4.50), 

from where the metro 

goes to Taksim Square. 

Havas buses offer direct 

connections to Taksim 

Square (tickets: YTL12) 

from where buses go to 

Sultanahmet Square. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Kahvedan 

(1A Akarsu Sokak, 

Cihangir, tel: 0212 

292 4030) A great 

lunchtime or evening 

venue, serving delicious 

Turkish, Asian and 

American dishes. 

UP TO €30 Faces (16 

Sofyali Sokak, Tunel, 

Beyoglu, tel: 0212 293 

1388) This new, trendy 

restaurant-bar has 

an eclectic menu of 

international cuisine 

and a well-stocked bar. 

UP TO €50 Midpoint 

(187 Istiklal Caddesi, 


7040) A fl ashy eatery in 

the middle of the city’s 

main shopping street 

offering a mix of local 

and international dishes. 

EXCLUSIVE Changa 

(47 Siraselviler Caddesi, 

Taksim, tel: 0212 249 

1348) Ultra-hip Changa 

cooks up Pacifi c Rim 

fusion food. The kitchen 

has a glass ceiling, so you 

can walk over and peer 

down at your chefs as 

they prepare your meal. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Café Firuz 

(55 Defterdar Yokusu, 

Cihangir, tel: 0212 252 

0241) This unlicensed 

café-bar has an extensive 

menu of great snacks, 

salads and desserts. 

LIVE MUSIC Süreyya 

Operasi (29 Bahariye 

Caddesi, Kadiköy, tel: 

0216 346 1531) The 

city’s opera house has 

SWISSOTEL THE 

BOSPHOROUS 

★ ★ ★ ★ ★ 

A member of the 

Leading Hotels of the 

World, this hotel offers 

an award-winning 

spa, views of Istanbul, 

sumptuous rooms 

and close proximity 

to the city’s upscale 

shopping district. 



recently been beautifully 

restored, and there is 

always a packed line 

up offering opera and 

ballet performances. 

LATE & LIVELY Ugly 

(20B Sofyali Sokak, 


8586) Located on 

a block of cafés, bars 

and restaurants, Ugly 

is popular with bright, 

young vodka drinkers. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Lale Plak is 

a long-running shop 

stocking the best 

selection of recorded 

jazz in town (1 Galipdede 

Caddesi, Beyoglu). 

SEE Istanbul Modern 

is hosting the fantastic 

When Angels Fall 

exhibition. It hosts videos 

by talents as diverse 

as Roman Polanski 

and the Eurythmics 

(until 10 January, 

istanbulmodern.org). 

GO Enjoy an afternoon 

exploring Kurtulus, 

a lively reminder of 

what old Istanbul used 

to look like: bustling, 

friendly and cheap. 

ESCAPE Spend a day 

relaxing in the naturally 

heated outdoor pools 

of the Termal resort. 

Seabuses leave the 

Yenikapi terminal 

daily at 8.30am and 

11.30am for Yalova. 

NO WAY! 

Istanbul’s novel-writing 

residents have included 

British couple Harold 

Nicholson and Vita 

Sackville West (1913– 

14) and the Booker prize 

winner Barry Unsworth 

(late 1960s). 

David O’Byrne

Jersey 

UK 


CURRENCY £ 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 






St Helier costs 

Authentic Indian and 

Bangladeshi dishes 

such as syleti singla and 

malai kufta are on 

the menu at this 

fantastic restaurant. 

EXCLUSIVE Tassili 

(Esplanade, St Helier, 

tel: 01534 722 301) 

Part of the luxurious 

Grand Hotel, Tassili 

uses fresh, local 

ingredients in a range 

of imaginative dishes 

created by head chef 

Richard Allen. Try the 

highly recommended 

tasting menu, which 

includes foie gras parfait, 

langoustine tortellini, 

roast loin of venison 

and caramelised 

Armagnac tart. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY The 

Café Bar (Liberation 

Square, St Helier, 

tel: 01534 880 110) 

Situated in the Pomme 

d’Or Hotel and adjacent 

to Liberation Square, 

The Café Bar offers 

meals and snacks 

all day, plus a tempting 

range of early 

evening cocktails. 

LIVE MUSIC 

Roberto’s (Savoy 

Hotel, St Helier, tel: 

01534 727 521) Newly 

refurbished, modern 

jazz bar Roberto’s 

features live jazz in 

authentic surroundings. 

Fridays see big bands 

and talents, in the 

week it’s a bit more 

chilled out. 

LATE & LIVELY 

The Watersplash 

(La Grande Route des 

Mielles, tel: 01534 482 

885) A surfers’ haunt 

by day and clubbers’ 

paradise by night, 

“Splash” is out of town 

but attracts the crowds. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP From designer 

to high street, fi nd every 

fashion brand you need 

under one roof, in the 

refurbished fi rst fl oor of 

the 170-year-old Voisin 

department store. Try a 

multitude of Christmas 

frocks, before picking 

your favourite (9 

King Street). 

SEE The Christmas 

festival in the streets 

of St Helier, La Fête dé 

Noué features street 

markets, a Christmas 

parade, open-air carol 

concerts and night-time 

shopping all under 

a canopy of bright 

lights. Head down 

before 20 December to 

get a taste of Christmas 

on the island. 

GO Within a couple 

of hundred metres of 

Liberation Square, you 

will fi nd four museums 

and at least half a dozen 

restaurants and pubs to 

hide away from the cold. 

ESCAPE An hour 

away by ferry, St Peter’s 

Port in Guernsey is 

particularly attractive 

around Christmas. 

The narrow cobbled 

streets are beautifully 

decorated and there’s 

a market brimming with 

Christmas spirit. 

TAXI TAXI 

about £16. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Murray’s 

(La Neuve Route, 

St Aubin, tel: 01534 

747 963) An all-day 

restaurant and café, 

Murray’s offers 

a tasty three-course 

menu for just £10 and 

the delicious pizzas 

and pasta are freshly 

made on the premises 

every day. 

UP TO €30 Dix-Neuf 

(19 Halkett Place, St 

Helier, tel: 01534 724 

065) This brasserie and 

bar is ideally situated 

in the centre of town. 

The Continental-style 

menu includes dishes 

like tempting ovenbaked 

salmon. 


Spice (53 Kensington 

Place, St Helier, tel: 

01534 737 377) 

NO WAY! 

The Shell Garden in 

St Brelade is the 

world’s largest garden 

made of shells, boasting 

more than one million 

delicate shells. 

Peter Body 

Krakow 

Poland 


CURRENCY Zloty (PLN) 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





A taxi costs 

about PLN80 to 


The 208 goes to 

Central station in 

about 35 minutes, while 

the 292 goes to the Old 

Town. Tickets: PLN2.50. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 U Babci 

Maliny (17 Ulica 

Slawkowska, tel: 012 

422 7601) Expect great 

cuisine based on the 

recipes of dear old Babci 

Maliny (translated as 

Grandma Raspberry) 

where the menu is full of 

hearty dishes. 

UP TO €30 Pod 

Wawelem (26–29 Ulica 

Sw Gertrudy, tel: 012 

421 2336) Here the 

owners have long 

tables running through 

the ballroom of 

a Habsburg-era hotel. 

They’ve whipped up 

a beer-hall ambience 

with all the trimmings, 


including steins of beer 

and schnitzels galore. 

EXCLUSIVE Cyrano 

de Bergerac (26 Ulica 

Slawkowska, tel: 012 411 

7288) Burrow down into 

Krakow’s subterranean 

kingdom in this stylish 

cellar where French 

cuisine is dished up in 

a decidedly aristocratic 

interior. Prince Charles 

has dined here. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Cafe 

Manekin (25 Ulica Sw 

Tomasza) Duck out of 

the cold in this cosy 

spot in central Krakow, 

where cheery barmen 

serve pints to a loyal 

crowd of regulars. 

LIVE MUSIC Klub 

Studio (4 Ulica 

Budryka, tel: 012 617 

4545) Nestled amid 

student residences, 

this rough diamond 

serves up dirt cheap 

beer and local and 

international acts. 

UP TO 

€50 

Trattoria La 

Campana (7 Ulica 

Kanonicza, tel: 012 

430 2232) A perfectly 

placed spot near 

the castle, restaurant 

La Campana serves 

up exquisite 

Italian cuisine on 

a cobbled street that 

seems straight out 

of a fairytale. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Lodz Kaliska (15 Ulica 

Florianska, tel: 012 

422 7042) This hip 

bar-of-the-moment has 

given a string of cellars 

a baroque makeover. It’s 

a good place for a long 

night of partying. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP For a quirky 

Christmas present, 

head to Kazimierz and 

the curious shops of 

Ulica Jozefa. 

SEE Drop by the 

Historical Museum 

for Krakow’s annual 

Christmas crib exhibition 

(35 Rynek Glowny). 

GO Kazimierz was, 

for centuries the hub 

of Krakow’s Jewish 

community. Its rich 

heritage has been 

restored, while artists 

have led the way in 

breathing new life into 

tenement houses, with 

plenty of galleries. 

ESCAPE The 

Suloszowa Castle 

of Pieskowa Skala 

– set within an unspoilt 

wooded valley – is one 

of the most romantic 

prospects in the region. 

NO WAY! 

Legend has it that 

when the clock strikes 

midnight on Christmas 

Eve, the ghosts of 

Poland’s long-fallen 

monarchs convene in 

a hidden chamber in 

Wawel Castle. Look out 

for two knights hurtling 

through the night sky on 

their fl ying steeds – they 

have come all the way 

from the Carpathians. 

Nick Hodge/ 

cracow-life.com


Lamezia 

Italy 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 







Routes 4 and 5 

go to the centre. 

end of a winding road. 

It’s a perfect spot for an 

unforgettable evening. 

EXCLUSIVE Villa 

Marinella (Via Villaggio 

Racise, tel: 0961 922 

008) Head to the heart 

of La Sila National Park 

and prepare to enjoy an 

evening’s feast at this 

restaurant. Favourites 

include the Sila-grown 

porcini mushrooms. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Birreria 

Degli Amici (379 Via 

Lungomare) Saturday 

and Sundays see 

karaoke nights at this 

pub and there are 

several, well-placed TVs 

showing various events. 

LIVE MUSIC Way 

Out (Via San Francesco 

di Paola) Way Out is 

staged on two levels and 

is the weekend hotspot 

for locals who want live 

music. The bar offers 

more than 100 varieties 

of rum, whisky and beer. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Discoteca Soho 

Musical (199 Via 

Romualdo Montagna, tel: 

0984 790 199) This club 

blasts out techno, house 

and pop. Weekends are 

lively and the club stays 

open till 3am. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP La Perla del 

Sud is full of Calabrian 

Christmas desserts 

such as pandora, 

torrone and stuffed fi gs 

covered with chocolate 

(12 Via Bausan). 

SEE Each year 

Christmas Eve sees the 

celebration of the end of 

Christmas Novena – the 

nine-day countdown to 

Jesus’ birth. Just after 

midnight the churches in 

Catanzaro are fi lled with 

people beginning the 

Christmas celebrations. 

GO The amazing 

ninth-century Byzantine 

Cattolica di Stilo, 90 

minutes from Catanzaro, 

is one of Calabria’s 

most photographed 

monuments, due to its 

beautiful brick façade. 

ESCAPE Relax on 

the steam train that 

transports travellers 

from Cosenza into La 

Sila National Park, then 

warm up with a hot 

chocolate in one of 

the cafés. 

TAXI TAXI 


BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Pub 

Antico Feudo (3 Via 

Capri) Inspired by 

the Highlands, this 

Scottish-style pub helps 

customers match Italian 

dishes with more than 

30 imported beers. 

UP TO €30 A’Tijana 

(Viale Fiume Mesima, 

tel: 0961 751 838) This 

classic Calabrian trattoria 

serves homemade 

morzello – a local 

speciality that is made 

with tripe, tomatoes and 

red peppers. 

UP TO €50 New 

Meeting Ristorante 

(165 Contrada Campo, 

tel: 0961 998 512) 

Expect fresh seafood 

and a lively banquet 

room, tucked away at the 

GRAND HOTEL 

PARADISO 

★ ★ ★ ★ ★ 

This stylish hotel 

offers a fantastic 

bar, a modern, wellequipped 

gym and 

superb rooms to 

rest in. The ideal 

base for a break in 

Lamezia. Breakfast 



easyJet.com. 

NO WAY! 

The world-famous 

philosopher Pythagoras 

established the fi rst 

Pythagorean School 

of Mathematics in 

Crotone, Calabria in the 

sixth century BC. 

Cherrye Moore/ 

my-bellavita.com 

Lanzarote 

Spain 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 






centre of Arrecife 


On routes 22 and 

23, buses leave 

every 30 minutes, 

stopping at Playa del 

Reducto and Arrecife’s 

bus station, from 7am– 

10.25pm Monday– 

Friday and 9am– 

10.25pm at the weekend. 


BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Angelo’s 

(Calle Las Tabaibas, 

Costa Teguise, tel: 

928 827 138) Sample 

authentic Italian food 

at very reasonable 

prices right on the 

seafront at Angelo’s. 

UP TO €30 Tipico 

Espanol (49 Avenida 

Papagayo, Playa Blanca, 

tel: 928 517 539) Enjoy 

a refreshing gazpacho 

followed by a delicious 

platter of freshly caught 

local fi sh at this eatery. 

UP TO €50 Puerto 

Bahia (5 Avenida 

Varadero, Puerto 

del Carmen, tel: 928 

513 793) Offering 

predominantly seafood 

dishes, this traditional 

Canarian restaurant, 

located beside this pretty 

harbour, is consistently 

recommended for its 

great food and service. 

EXCLUSIVE El 

Mirador (Puerto Marina 

Rubicón, Playa Blanca, 

tel: 928 519 427) 

Overlooking the Marina 

Rubicon, El Mirador 

serves modern and 

creative cuisine in 

a beautiful setting. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Coffee 

Express (Calle El 

Correillo, Playa Blanca) 

Browse the internet 

on the free WiFi while 

sipping a steaming 

coffee and indulging in 

great pastries in this 

popular café. 

LIVE MUSIC King’s 

Head (Avenida 

Maritima, Playa Blanca) 

Located on the idyllic 

seafront promenade, 

this venue offers relaxed 

live music most nights. 

LATE & LIVELY 

The Bank (Centro 

Comercial Atlántico, 

Avenida de las Playas, 

Puerto del Carmen) 

Formerly known as 

Dreams, The Bank is 

the latest incarnation of 

Lanzarote’s biggest club. 

Twentysomethings pack 

this place out till 6am 

most nights of the week. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Palm Centre 

offers an upmarket and 

eclectic collection of 

gifts for all friends and 

relatives, and is especially 

popular with locals 

looking for Christmas 

presents (Edifi cio 

Aparthotel Los Fariones, 

Puerto del Carmen). 

SEE The annual Misa 

del Gallo (Midnight 

Mass) is a perfect way 

to start your Christmas 

celebrations. Head down 

to the 15th-century 

church of Nuestra 

Señora de Guadalupe 

in Teguise, where the 

Christmas Eve service 

includes traditional 

music and dance recitals 

(Plaza de Teguise). 

GO Finish off an 

afternoon’s shopping 

and sightseeing in 

Arrecife with some 

tapas in one of the 

many bars located 

along the Playa de 

Reducto, a Miami-style, 

palm-lined avenue. 

ESCAPE Guinate 

Tropical Park, in the 

north of Lanzarote, 

offers a great day out 

for all the family with its 

variety of animals and 

exotic birds. Take the 

40-minute journey on 

bus LZ10 from Teguise 

to Haria and then the 

LZ202 to Guinate – the 

park is situated at the 

foot of Mount Corona. 

NO WAY! 

Twenty six villages and 

hamlets were destroyed 

during the devastating 

volcanic eruptions 

of 1730–1736 – the 

island’s most fertile 

farmland was lost under 

layers of lava and ash. 

Ashley Wootton/ 

discoverlanzarote.com

PROMOTION 

GET A BARGAIN 

IN A VIBRANT 

AREA OF PARIS 

The Hotel Elysee Montparnasse has great 

rates in the artistic heart of Paris 

IF YOU’RE LOOKING for a 

hotel in Paris and you enjoy 

buzzing nightlife, the newly 

renovated and affordable Hotel 

Elysee Montparnasse is ideal. 

The hotel is set in an art deco 

landmark building in the lively 

and artistic Montparnasse. In 

keeping with this bohemian 

area, the hotel has a 1930s 

- style facade highlighted 

by an art deco mosaic on 

the top fl oors. Hotel Elysee 

Montparnasse undertook a 

complete renovation in 2008, 

and although the tone remains 

classic with moulded plaster 

cornices, the updated décor 

gives it a fresh, modern look 

– the perfect blend of old and 

new. Each room includes 

large prints of famous French 

paintings (including works by 

Monet, Manet and Renoir), 

which makes each room 

bespoke. Despite its recent 

makeover and prime location 

in the heart of Paris, the Hotel 

Elysee Montparnasse has very 

affordable rates, starting at €90 

a night. 

11 bis rue de la Gaîté, 75014, Paris 

reservation@elyseemontparnasse.com 

Tel: +33 (0) 1 43 20 95 12 

Fax: +33 (0) 1 43 20 48 60 

www.elyseemontparnasseparis-hotel.com 

AYURVEDA 

in Baden-Baden 

(+49)7221 - 302101 

www.devaya.de 

view from the top fl oor


Larnaca 

Cyprus 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





A taxi from the 

airport to Larnaca 

welcoming restaurant. 

This reliable venue 

boasts a varying menu 

with an emphasis on 

tasty steaks and seafood. 

EXCLUSIVE To 

Paradosiako (2 Sakaria 

Street, tel: 2465 8318) 

This Cypriot fi sh tavernrestaurant 

is elegant, 

spacious and modern. 

The name translates 

as traditional plate, so, 

as you’d expect, local 

specialities and regional 

wines are the stand outs 

of the menu. Order the 

fi lling fi sh mezze. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Romeos 

(28–31 Zenon Kiteos 

Street, tel: 2462 6202) 

Situated on the bustling 

main street, this café 

attracts plenty of 

passers-by with its super 

snacks. Enjoy a warm 

sandwich and chips over 

a coffee, beer or juice. 

LIVE MUSIC Larnaca 

Nautical Club (Dhekelia 

Road) Larnaca’s popular 

Nautical Club welcomes 

visitors to its idyllic 

beachside restaurant, 

with a local singer 

performing live music on 

Wednesday nights. Sing 

along to a mix of local 

and international hits. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Calvero (1 Kimonos 

Street, tel: 2465 5051) 

This smart café bar is 

popular with hip young 

locals, although the 

music caters for all 

ages and tastes. It’s the 

trendiest place to come 

to dance the night away. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Koukli is a jewel 

of a gift shop, located 

just back from the 

beach. At Christmas, 

alongside the usual 

delights, there is also 

a wonderful range of 

niche decorations and 

candles – perfect for 

the tree back home 

(26 Filipou Zanettou, 

tel: 2465 5627). 

SEE Larnaca 

Municipality is 

organising a series of 

celebrations over the 

Christmas and New 

Year period. The 

exciting activities 

culminate in a New 

Year’s Eve concert and 

explosive fi reworks at 

Europe Square. 

GO The Dhekelia 

Road – or The Strip, 

as it’s affectionately 

known – links Larnaca 

with the British Army 

base of Dhekelia. 

It’s crammed 

with international 

restaurants, lively local 

tavernas, bars, and 

shops – perfect for an 

afternoon out. 

ESCAPE Potamos 

Liopetri is the perfect 

getaway from the hustle 

and bustle of Larnaca 

town life. Take the 45minute 

motorway ride 

and chill out among 

the moored fi shing 

boats along the sandy 

shell-strewn beach. 

Before heading back, 

warm up over 

a steaming cup of 

coffee in one of the 

seafront cafés. 

TAXI TAXI 

costs €10–€15. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Jus 

Bagels (42–44 

Makariou Avenue) 

Enjoy delicious, freshly 

baked savoury and 

sweet bagels at this 

eatery. Tempting 

fi llings range from 

chicken Caesar salad 

to melted chocolate. 

UP TO €30 The Lodge 

(Dhekelia Road, tel: 2464 

8050) Visit this familyfriendly 

restaurant next 

to the beach, which 

prepares fantastic 

English-style home 

cooking. Think steak and 

ale pie or lip-smacking 

fi sh and chips. 

UP TO €50 Aberdeen 

Steak House (Dhekelia 

Road, tel: 2482 4060) 

Sit back and relax in the 

attractive dining room 

of this comfortable and 

NO WAY! 

The name Larnaca is 

derived from the Greek 

word Larnax meaning 

sarcophagus (tombs). 

Bev Orton Jennings 

Lisbon 

Portugal 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





It costs €12–€15 

to the centre. The 

journey is 20 minutes. 

The Aerobus 

leaves every 20 

minutes from 7.45am– 

8.45pm. Tickets: €3. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Café do 

Monte (1 Rua de São 

Gens, Graça) Located 

just off Graça’s main 

shopping street, this 

cosy neighbourhood 

café serves snacks, great 

breakfasts and brunch. 

UP TO €30 Comida 

de Santo (39 Calçada 

do Eng Miguel Pais, 

tel: 21 396 3339) One 

of the oldest Brazilian 

restaurants in Lisbon 

and still one of the 

best. Specialising in the 

tropical cuisine of Bahía, 

the menu includes 

many regional delights. 

UP TO €50 Estufa 

Real (Calçada do 

Galvão, Belém, tel: 21 

361 9400) An elegant 

eatery in the Royal 

greenhouse of the 

botanical gardens. 

The food is some of the 

Mediterranean’s fi nest, 

featuring homegrown 

herbs and plants from 

the surrounding gardens. 

EXCLUSIVE Belcanto 

(10 Largo de São Carlos, 

tel: 21 342 0607) This 

long-established eatery 

has just had a change of 

owner and a makeover. 

It still serves traditional 

Portuguese cuisine and 

it is hoped that the 

new ownership will 

breathe some new life 

into the restaurant. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Chafariz 

do Vinho (Rua Mãe 

D’Água, tel: 21 342 

2079) Unusually located 

in an 18th-century water 

cistern, this beautiful 

space is dedicated to 

wine, but also serves 

delicious tapas, too. 

NO 

WAY! 

 

 

 

In the 19th century 

the suppression of 

monks in Portugal 

meant that their 

delicious recipes 

were forgotten 

– except for the tasty 

pastel de Belém, 

a mouth-watering 

custard tart, whose 

recipe is still a closely 

guarded secret. 

LIVE MUSIC Clube 

de Fado (94 Rua São 

João da Praça, tel: 21 

885 2704) This is the 

place to be for the city’s 

best fado – Lisbon blues 

– in a lovely old building. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Frágil (126–128 Rua da 

Atalia, Bairro Alto, tel: 

21 346 9578) After 25 

years, this emblematic 

club is coping with the 

new Bairro Alto closing 

time of 3am with a new 

programme of music, 

performance and fi lm. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP A Outra Face da 

Lua has just opened 

a vintage clothes outlet 

just round the corner 

from their original and 

iconic shop-café (119 

Rua dos Douradores). 


December, ballet fans 

can catch Giselle by 

the National Ballet 

Company at Teatro 

Camões (cnb.pt). 

GO The House of 

Stories has just opened 

in Cascais. Dedicated 

to the Portugueseborn, 

London-based 

artist Paula Rego, 

this building houses 

collections of the artist’s 

work (300 Avenida da 

República, Cascais, tel: 

21 482 6970). 

ESCAPE The Lisbon 

Riviera – Estoril and 

Cascais – might be 

faded from its glory days 

between the wars but, 

just half an hour by train 

from Lisbon, it still has 

plenty to offer the visitor, 

including shopping, 

museums and the 

famous casino. 

Jonathan Weightman

Liverpool 

UK 


CURRENCY £ 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





A taxi costs 

about £12 to 

purveyor of superior 

Italian food. The 

surroundings are 

bright and the wine 

list is superb. 

EXCLUSIVE Fraiche 

(11 Rose Mount, Wirral, 

tel: 0151 652 2914) 

It’s only fi ve minutes 

through the Mersey 

tunnel to Merseyside’s 

fi rst, and only, Michelinstarred 

restaurant. Chef 

Marc Wilkinson serves 

modern French cuisine. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Ship & 

Mitre (113 Dale Street, 

tel: 0151 236 0859) In 

an art deco building 

close to China Town, 

the Ship has a huge 

range of beers. 

LIVE MUSIC O2 

Academy (11–13 

Hotham Street, tel: 0151 

707 3200) There’s 

a huge main hall and 

a smaller venue below, 

which attract the 

stars. Enjoy rocking 

to Babyshambles (14 

December) and Shack 

(15th) this month. 


Vocal Rooms (The Rat 

and Parrot, 2 Queen 


1990) At this venue 

you’ll discover private 

karaoke rooms for up to 

12 people with food and 

cocktails available at 

the touch of a button. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Utility 

stocks a range of 

unusual household 

products from leading 

international brands to 

independent designers 

(utilitydesign.co.uk). 

SEE Former Atomic 

Kitten Natasha Hamilton 

and Henry Winkler 

star in a pantomime 

version of Peter Pan 

at the Empire Theatre 

from 11 December–3 

January (Lime Street, 

liverpoolempire.org.uk). 

GO The Albert Dock 

is a compulsory stop 

for all visitors, with its 

waterfront location, 

the Tate Liverpool, the 

Beatles Story museum, 

the Merseyside Maritime 

museum and a plethora 

of restaurants and shops. 


away, Manchester’s 


offer everything from 

Christmas gifts to hot 

chestnuts and glüwein 

(until 19 December). 

TAXI TAXI 


Airportbycoach 

runs an airport 

shuttle to the city 

centre with hourly 

departures – journey 

time 30 minutes. 

Tickets: £5 return. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Egg Cafe 

(2nd Floor, 16–18 

Newington, tel: 0151 

707 2755) Fabulous 

vegetarian fare at rockbottom 

prices – have a 

starter, main course and 

pudding for under £10. 

UP TO €30 HoST (31 

Hope Street, tel: 0151 

708 5831) A great new 

pan-Asian noodle bar 

in the cultural quarter 

– order the stir-fried belly 

pork with egg noodles. 

UP TO €50 Piccolino 

(14A Cook Street, tel: 

0151 236 2555) Try the 

day’s specials at this 

BRIDGESTREET 

LIVERPOOL ONE 

★ ★ ★ ★ ★ 

Set in the city’s new 

Liverpool ONE 

development, this 

stylish collection 

of apartments are 

available for short- 

and long-term lets and 

offer stunning views 

across the city. From 


easyJet.com. 

NO WAY! 

Around 400,000 

cat-mummies were 

imported into Liverpool 

in the 1850s and sold to 

be used as fertiliser. 

Gerry Corner 

Ljubljana 

Slovenia 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 






city centre is 

about €35–€45. 

Buses leave 

every hour from 

5.20am–8.10pm daily. 

The journey takes 45 


BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 

Paninoteka (3 Jurcicev 

Trg, tel: 01 425 0055) 

Sandwich lovers should 

head here for a budget 

meal full of fresh and 

healthy ingredients. 

According to many 

locals this is the best 

sandwich shop in town. 

UP TO €30 La Storia 

(3 Linhartova, tel: 01 

234 4592) For a little 

slice of Italy outside the 

city centre, this well-run 

eatery will more than 

satisfy your taste buds. 

UP TO €50 Julija 

(9 Stari Trg, tel: 01 425 

6463) At this cosy 

hideaway resting on the 


bustling, main cobbled 

street through the Old 

Town, you can expect 

a reliable array of 

Italian, French and 

Slovenian dishes. 

EXCLUSIVE Manna 

(1A Eipprova Ulica, 

tel: 01 283 5294) Fine 

dining comes to raffi sh 

Trnovo in the form 

of this smooth, wellpresented 

eatery. Istrian 

truffl es and perfectly 

cooked seafood are 

the highlights of the 

impressive menu, 

accompanied by some 

excellent domestic 

white and red wines. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Randevu 

(19 Mestni Trg) 

A relatively new wine 

bar, set back from the 

river in the Old Town. 

Settle in for the night 

to enjoy some top 

quality Slovenian wines 

– try the tipples from 

the Vipava Valley and 

Goriska Brda. 

LIVE MUSIC Roxly 

(5 Mala, tel: 01 430 

1021) People fl ock here 

to eat during the day 

and come back at night 

for a drink and a party. 

There are two fl oors of 

fun with DJs and live 

music sets helping to 

get the party started. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Sub Sub (25 Celovska) 

Eclectic is not the 

word for the music 

policy at this central 

venue – the playlist 

weaves through happy 

house to hip hop and 

reggae. This draws in 

a varied but lively crowd 

who are here to party 

through till dawn. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Lovers of honey 

should make a beeline 

for Honey House – a 

little shop that overfl ows 

with the gorgeous 

sweet stuff and honey 

related souvenirs too 

(7 Mestni Trg). 

SEE Ljubljana is a great 

place to be in December 

with plenty of festive fun. 

The Christmas Lights 

are switched on on 

3 December, kicking off 

the events, followed by 

the Christmas market, 

which lines the banks 

of Ljubljanica till 31 

December. Finally a huge 

street party welcomes 

in the New Year in 

style, with fi reworks 

illuminating the castle. 

GO When the 

temperatures drop 

and a dusting of snow 

glints across the city, a 

riverside stroll along the 

Ljubljanica is never more 

romantic. Stop off in the 

myriad bars, cafés and 

restaurants awaiting to 

warm you up afterwards. 

ESCAPE Pictureperfect 

Lake Bled 

is stunning, and 

undeniably one of 

Europe’s prettiest 

lakes, hemmed in by 

mountains by all sides. 

Catch a bus or train from 

Ljubljana and you’ll be 

enjoying a tasty kremna 

rezina (cream cake) or 

skiing within an hour. 

NO WAY! 

So utterly impressed 

were a couple of Belgian 

visitors by this delightful 

city that they named 

their baby after Ljubljana. 

Robin McKelvie/ 

robinmckelvie.com


London 

UK 


CURRENCY £ 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 

LUTON 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI 

Taxis charge 

roughly £100 to 

central London. The 

journey takes an hour. 

easyBus, in 

conjunction 

with Green Line, runs 

a frequent 24-hour 

coach service to London 

Victoria via Brent Cross, 

Finchley Road, Baker 

Street and Marble Arch. 

Buy tickets in the 

arrivals hall or book 

online from £2 single 

(easyJet.com). 

To save time, National 

Express tickets for 

this service can also 

be bought onboard. 

Tickets: £14 single; £19 

return. Ask your cabin 

crew for details. 

Travel to central 

London in as little 

as 34 minutes with 

First Capital Connect. 

A frequent shuttle 

bus runs between the 

airport and the train 

station, taking just 10 

minutes. There are up 

to six First Capital 

Connect trains an hour 

between London and 

Luton Airport Parkway 

station (fi rstcapital 

connect.co.uk). 

GATWICK 





Holiday Taxis 



home to the airport, 

then city or destination. 

TAXI 

A journey to 

central London 

costs about £100 and 

the journey should take 

around 80 minutes. 

easyBus runs 

a frequent 

minibus service to 

Fulham Broadway 

Underground Station 

in west London. 

Scheduled buses run 


from 6.30am–11pm. 





National Express 

runs an hourly 

service to London 

Victoria. Tickets: 

£14 return. 

The Gatwick 

Express to London 

Victoria runs every 15 


1.35am and takes 30 

minutes. Exclusive 

easyJet discounted fares 

are available when you 

buy onboard. Ask your 

cabin crew for details. 

Alternatively, First 

Capital Connect 

operates regular train 

services to London 

and the South coast. 

As does Southern, 

which operates up to 

10 trains an hour to 

London Victoria. 

As part of London 

Gatwick Airport’s 

£1b investment in 

transforming the 

airport over the next 

few years, the transit 

train, which operates 

between the South and 

North Terminals, is 

being taken out of 

service at the end of 

September 2009 for 

10 months. There 

will be a replacement 

bus service, but 

passengers should 

ensure they arrive at 

the right terminal 

for their fl ight to 

avoid delays. The 

replacement bus 

journey will take longer 

than the transit service 

and passengers should 

allow for this. 

STANSTED 





Holiday Taxis 



home to the airport, 


TAXI 

Fares should 

cost about 

£120 to central 

London. The journey 

takes 70 minutes. 

easyBus runs 

a frequent 

minibus service to Baker 

Street Underground 

Station and London 

Victoria. Buses depart 

every 20–30 minutes 

from 7am–1.05am. 





National Express 

runs a bus service 

every 20 minutes to 

London Victoria, with 

stops at Marble Arch, 

Baker Street, St John’s 

Wood and Finchley Road. 

Tickets: £17 return. 

The Stansted 

Express runs every 

15–30 minutes until 

12.30am (additional 

services until 01.30am 

on Thursday, Friday 

and Sunday). Exclusive 

easyJet discounted fares 

are available when you 

buy onboard or online at 

easyJet.com. Ask your 

cabin crew for details. 

The journey takes 

about 46 minutes to 

London Liverpool Street 

in the city or 35 minutes 

to Tottenham Hale 

for connections to 

London’s West End. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Pizza 

East (Tea Building, 56 

Shoreditch High Street, 

E1, tel: 020 7729 1888) 

Housed within the newly 

refurbished Tea Building 

on trendy Shoreditch 

High Street, the décor 

in this pizza place is 

basic, but warm leather 

seats and low-hanging 

lighting make it inviting. 

The menu is simple, 

featuring rustic Italian 

classics bursting with 

fl avour. The meatball or 

calamari starters are 

fi rm favourites, as are 

the spicy sausage and 

duck sausage pizzas. 


Compass (58 Penton 

Street, N1, tel: 020 

7837 3891) Cornering 

the market on Sunday 

afternoons in Islington, 

The Compass offers 

traditional lunches 

featuring locally sourced 

fare, with cinema 

projections on offer. Tuck 

in to roast beef, pork or 

an inspirational veggie 

equivalent with a large 

helping of all the usual 

trimmings, and wash 

it all down with a glass 

of wine, real ale or the 

house speciality – 

a Bloody Mary. Finish 

off an idyllic lazy 

Sunday afternoon 

with a delicious 

portion of bread and 

butter pudding. 

UP TO €50 Vivat 

Bacchus (4 Hays Lane, 

SE1, tel: 020 7234 

0891) Built on the same 

winning values as its 

sister establishment 

in Farringdon, Vivat 

Bacchus is much loved 

by a loyal clientèle for 

its cheese and wine 

nights. The restaurant 

EXCLUSIVE 

RESTAURANT 

Damian Hirst at The 

Wallace (Hertford 

House, Manchester 

Square, W1U, tel: 020 

7563 9505) Catch the 

fi rst look of Damian 

Hirst’s new exhibition 

No Love Lost at the 

Wallace Collection 

gallery and dine on 

chef Oliver Geyer’s 

fi ne French cuisine. 




‰ 

works with the fi nest 

sommeliers to ensure 

that the wine on your 

table has been carefully 

selected to perfectly 

compliment the 

exquisite cuisine. Spoil 

yourself this Christmas 

with a fi ve-course set 

menu with matching 

hand-picked wines. 

EXCLUSIVE 

Sumosan (26 

Albemarle Street, W1, 

tel: 020 7495 5999) So 

much more than just 

another eponymous 

upmarket Japanese 

restaurant in the 

capital’s sleek Mayfair 

district, Sumosan lets 

the food do the talking, 

rather than its celebrity 

clientèle (although it has 

garnered a more-than 

favourable reputation 

among the A-listers) or 

over-the-top décor. Head 

chef Bubker Belkhit has 

created an impressive 

menu, faithful to the 

traditions of Japanese 

cuisine, but with a nod 

towards Western-style 

innovation. Dishes 

including poached 

oysters with foie gras 

and sea urchin, spinach 

salad with scallops and 

prawns in a sesame 

dressing, and the 

legendary black cod 

with miso will all get your 

tastebuds tingling. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY The Old 

Queen’s Head (44 

Essex Road, N1, tel: 020 

7354 9993) Beat the 

winter chills beside 

a 16th-century fi replace 

while lounging on 

a thick leather sofa and 

take your pick from 


The cheapest way to London 

from the airport 

Tickets available online or from our desk in arrivals 

FREE EXHIBITION 

26 November 2009– 6 April 2010 

GATWICK STANSTED LUTON 

OPEN TUESDAY–SUNDAY (UNTIL 18.00) 

LATE-NIGHT THURSDAY (UNTIL 22.00) 

www.wellcomecollection.org 

PART OF THE IDENTITY PROJECT FROM THE WELLCOME TRUST 

EXHIBITIONS | EVENTS | CAFÉ | BOOKSHOP | AND MORE 

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EXHIBITION 

Enter 

the Most Famous 

Bridge in the World 

Enjoy breathtaking views of London 

from the Bridge’s Walkways. 

Experience the Victorian Engine Rooms. 

Enter and be amazed. 

Adults: £7.00 Children: £3.00 Concessions: £5.00 

Under 5s: FREE 

Contact: 0845 404 3049 

Bridge lift line: 020 7940 3984 

www.towerbridge.org.uk 

Tower Bridge is provided by the City of London Corporation as part of its contribution to the cultural life of London and the nation. 

£1 OFF 

EVERY 

ADULT TICKET 

Quote 

‘TBEJ offer’


London 

UK 

The Old Queen’s Head’s 

delightfully named “Pimp 

my Chocolate” range, 

with a choice of biscuits, 

marshmallows and 

caramel, plus Baileys, 

whisky or a fl avoured 

liqueur. This pub is also a 

super live music venue, 

and features pub quizzes 

every Tuesday and 

comedy nights too. 

LIVE MUSIC 

Ronnie Scott’s (47 Frith 

Street, W1, tel: 020 7439 

0747) This iconic jazz bar 

guarantees an excellent 

night’s entertainment, 

and throughout the 

festive period opens its 

doors at lunchtime too. 

Sit back and relax with 

a warming bourbon 

while listening to artists 

including Joe Stilgoe and 

Natalie Williams (7–9 

December) and Ray 

Gelato and The Giants 

(14th–19th, 21st–23rd 

and 28th–30th). 

LATE & LIVELY 

Corbet Place (The 

Old Truman Brewery, 

Hanbury Street, E1, tel: 

020 7770 6028) Come 

here for lively Latin 

nights on Wednesdays 

and Thursdays, and 

a top range of DJs at 

the weekend. Why not 

pop along midweek to 

admire the dancers and 

have a go at polishing 

your steps in an early 

class, too? Thursday 

is Brazilian Forro night 

and the front and back 

terraces serve up 

delicious, authentic 

pastels (Brazilian 

pastries) – the perfect 

fuel paired with 

a caiparinha to give you 

the energy to dance all 

night long. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Covent Garden 

is a prime area for a little 

High Street shopping 

in the city, but at this 

time of year, the Piazza 

is the perfect place to 

pick up last-minute 

Christmas presents. 

With the harmonies 

of Christmas carolers 

as your soundtrack, 

browse the stalls and 

the Real Food Market for 

gourmet treats for the 

big day. And, if you need 

any more incentive, 

there’s also a children’s 

workshop and an 

exciting light installation. 

WINTER 

WONDERLAND 

GO Winter 

Wonderland in Hyde 

Park boasts London’s 

largest ice rink, a 

German Christmas 

Market, Santa’s Grotto 

and, new for this year, 

Zippo’s Christmas 

Circus (open 

10am–10pm, until 

3 January, winter 

wonderland.com). 

www.studioedge.co.uk 

SEE This Christmas, 

head to the Southbank 

Centre and see Sandi 

Toksvig’s Christmas 

Cracker – a variety 

performance held 


A host of big-name 

acts are due to 

perform, including 

Ronnie Corbett, for 

this hilarious, festive 

singalong featuring 

parodies of famous 

Christmas tales, 

including A Christmas 

Carol (southbank 

centre.co.uk). 

ESCAPE Rub 

shoulders with the 

next generation of 

world leaders and 

revolutionary scientists 

in Cambridge, about 

50 minutes away from 

the capital by train 

or car. Visit the iconic 

university buildings, 

enjoy a brisk wander 

along the banks of the 

river and consider going 

punting – although it 

might be a little too 

cold! Join the throng 

of students and hire 

a bike to get you from 

shop, to restaurant, 

to pantomime 

performance before 

jumping the train 

back home. 

NO WAY! 

Wish you had a 

shorter postal address? 

One, London, is the 

address of Apsley 

House, the Duke of 

Wellington’s former 

residence, set on Hyde 

Park Corner. 

Amy Dennis 

Lyon 

France 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI 


about 30 minutes 

and the fare to the 


Catch the Satobus 

from outside Le 

Centre, Place Sud to 

Part-Dieu or Perrache 

stations, which connect 

with the metro. Buses 

depart every 20 minutes 

from 6am–11.20pm. 

Tickets: €8.40 single; 

€15.20 return. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Délices 

et Sens (19 Rue Gentil, 

tel: 04 7829 1562) Enjoy 

a fi xed menu boasting 

a delicious variation of 

fl avours and dishes 

at this eatery in the 

centre of town. 

UP TO €30 Le Damier 

Des Brotteaux (68 

Cours Vitton, tel: 04 

7852 1865) Dine under 

the impressive ceiling, 

decorated by artist 

Thèodore Lévigne at 

this great restaurant 

and marvel at the works 

of art and beautiful 

interior between each 

delicious mouthful. 

UP TO €50 La Mere 

Jean (5 Rue des 

Maronniers, tel: 04 

7837 8127) The friendly 

and attentive waiters 

guide you through the 

fantastic menu pointing 

out the many tempting 

house specialities. 

EXCLUSIVE Auberge 

de l’Ile (Place Notre 

Dame, Ile Barbe, tel: 

04 7883 9949) Pull 

out all the stops at this 

renowned fi ne-dining 

establishment. Situated 

on the island in the 

middle of the River 

Saône, this is an idyllic 

location and one of 

France’s best guarded 

Michelin-starred secrets. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY L’Albion 

(12 Rue Sainte Catherine, 

tel: 04 7828 3300) 

A friendly local pub 

offering great ales in a 

homely atmosphere, 

at this time of year the 

tinsel will be out and the 

celebrations in full fl ow. 

LIVE MUSIC Ninkasi 

(267 Rue Marcel 

Mérieux, tel: 04 7276 

8900) Ninkasi is one of 

the city’s most popular 

venues offering live 

rock, jazz and DJ sets, 

plus home-brewed beer 

served until late. 


Woodlands (32 Quai 

Arloing, tel: 04 7883 

6080) The DJ spins 

pop, rock and indie 

tunes in two large 

rooms. At weekends the 

student crowd barely 

Indian designer Jyoti Apte’s new collection 

is now available exclusively from online 

jewellery boutique Studio Edge. Jyoti casts 

each silver leaf seperately ensuring each 

necklace is absolutely unique. 

breaks away from the 

dance fl oor until dawn. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP From designer 

to high street, you’ll 

fi nd the best gift ideas 

in the parallel streets of 

Rue de République and 

Edouard Herriot. Don’t 

forget to zig-zag the 

side streets for some 

hidden boutiques. 

SEE The worldrenowned 

Fête des 

Lumières conjurs 

up an explosion of 

innovative light and 

sound installations 

throughout the city 

– the streets, its façades 

and local landmarks are 

all treated to a splash of 

colour (5–8 December, 

lumieres.lyon.fr). 

GO Place Carnot in the 

second arrondissement 

hosts the great annual 

Christmas market till 

24 December. Festive 

chalets with crafts and 

fl avours from far and 

wide are brought for 

all the town to enjoy 

(marche-noel-lyon.fr). 

ESCAPE The Vercors 

Massif, a mountainous 

ridge two hours from 

Lyon, offers activities 

for both sporty types 

and those in search of a 

cultural day. Check out 

the views over Grenoble 

and enjoy a bit of skiing. 

NO WAY! 

The Festival of Lights 

draws in four million 

visitors to see 80 

different light projects 

and more than eight 

million candles displayed 

on the townsfolk’s 

window ledges. 

John Brown

“Merc on Carnaby Street from 1967, the home of original British Clothing”. 

*Receive a 10% discount online. 

Flagship Store: 10 Carnaby Street London W1F 9PF www.merc.com 

*On checkout enter the code: MERCJET to receive your 10% discount online. Valid until 31st January 2010. 

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Madeira 

Portugal 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI 




The Aerobus goes 

to the main hotel 

area, fi nishing at Praia 

Formosa. There are 

11 services daily from 

9.45am. Tickets: €5. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 

Restaurante Londres 

(64A Rua da Carreira, 

Funchal, tel: 291 235 

329) This inexpensive 

restaurant is open 

for lunch and dinner 

and serves up typical 

Portuguese dishes. 

UP TO €30 Il Basilica 

(Rua De Leichlingen, 


700) Popular with those 

who love genuine Italian 

fl avours, this busy 

restaurant is near the 

seafront promenade. 

UP TO €50 Taj Mahal 

Indian Restaurant (119 

Rua Imperatriz D Amelia, 


038) One of Funchal’s 

best Indian restaurants 

is situated behind the 

Hotel Savoy. Take your 

pick of authentic dishes, 

ranging from mild 

kormas to hot vindaloos. 

EXCLUSIVE Mulhe 

(Estrada da Pontinha, 

Porto de Funchal, tel: 

915 193 034) Exclusive 

restaurant ideal for 

dinner on New Year’s 

Eve thanks to its 

special gala menu and 

front-row seats for 

Funchal’s fi reworks 

display at midnight. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Taberna 

da Poncha (Sitio da 

Lage, Serra de Agua, tel: 

291 952 312) Maderia’s 

version of rum punch 

– poncha – made with 

honey, rum and lemon is 

served at this hillside bar. 

LIVE MUSIC House 

Jazz (16 Rua das 

Oranhas, Funchal) 

MUNICIPAL 

GARDENS 

GO Head to the 

beautiful Municipal 

Gardens, opposite 

Galeria São 

Lorenço, and visit 

the amphitheatre. 

Throughout 

December it’s a hub 

of activity, with stalls 

selling Christmas 

gifts and a whole host 

of entertainment. 

Friday and Saturday 

nights come alive at 

this excellent restaurant 

and live jazz bar. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Vespas (60 Avenida Sa 

Carneiro, Funchal, tel: 

291 231 202) Vespas is 

an established venue 

for visiting DJs and ideal 

for trendy club goers 

who want to party late 

into the night. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP A Loja do Gato 

Preto is a popular 

Portuguese chain of 

shops selling candles, 

kitchen gadgets and 

trendy soft furnishings. 

It has three outlets in 

Funchal – the Madeira 

Shopping centre, Forum 

and Dolce Vita. 

SEE This month, 

fabulous displays 

of Christmas lights 

illuminate Madeira’s 

main town Funchal, 

and the centre bustles 

with activity on a daily 

basis: folk music, nativity 

displays, stalls and more. 

ESCAPE Take a day 

trip to Santana and have 

fun at Madeira’s fi rst 

theme park. Parents will 

be delighted with the 

mix of culture, history, 

rides and entertainment 

(parquetematico 

damadeira.pt). 

NO WAY! 

In 1776 when the 

Dighton Rock in Berkley, 

Massachusetts, was 

signed to mark the 

Declaration of the 

American Independence, 

the signers chose to 

drink Madeira wine to 

celebrate the event! 

Josie Rennie 

Madrid 

Spain 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI 



The number 

200 bus leaves 


6am–11.30pm. It stops 

at Avenida de América 

bus station. Tickets: €1. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 FrescCo 

(8 Calle Caballero de 

Gracia, tel: 91 521 6052) 

This all-you-can-eat 

salad bar is packed with 

pizzas, pastas, soups 

and desserts – perfect 

if you fancy a change 

from tapas. 

UP TO €30 La Finca 

de Susana (4 Calle 

Arlaban, tel: 91 369 

3557) La Finca’s has 

bright, airy spaces, 

speedy staff and rockbottom 

prices. Tuck 

in to well-presented 

Mediterranean dishes. 

UP TO €50 Nina 

(10 Calle Manuela 

Malasaña, tel: 91 591 

0046) Presided over 

by the eponymous 

Nina, this Malasaña 

restaurant is a classic, 

thanks to its warmly lit, 

comfy surroundings, 

plus the popular 

Sunday brunch. 

EXCLUSIVE Ramón 

Freixa Madrid (67 Calle 

Claudio Coello, tel: 91 

781 8262) The famous, 

Michelin-starred 

Catalan chef Ramón 

Freixa has moved his 

operation to the capital, 

and the results are 

stunning. Expect some 

of the fi nest cuisine the 

city has to offer. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Rustika 

Café (11 Calle Limón, 

tel: 91 542 1567) Take 

a round-the-world trip 

at Rustika Café, which 

boasts decorations 

from the four corners 

of the globe. Mojitos 

and caipirinas are the 

preferred selection for 

most of the clientèle. 

LIVE MUSIC Café 

Jazz Populart (22 

Calle Huertas, tel: 91 

429 8407) Buzzing 

live music joint that 

has been a favourite on 

the Madrid scene for 

almost two decades, 

thanks to its nightly 

offering of jazz, along 

with great blues and 

Brazilian tunes. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Zombie (7 Calle Pez) 

The latest bar where 

Madrid’s cool kids 

meet – plus a 

smattering of celebrity 

faces. See and be seen 

thanks to the large bay 

windows and corner 

spot on the busy street. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Pick up 

a special gift at Ricami 

Veronica, an Italian 

textiles shop where 

they embroider your 

chosen text on any of 

their stock (1 Plaza del 

Angel, tel: 91 523 4549, 

ricami-veronica.es). 

SEE Christmas 

means gospel choir 

concerts in Madrid, as 

a series of companies 

come to visit from the 

US to get you in the 

festive mood. They will 

perform throughout 

the month at various 

venues (obrasocialcaja 

madrid.es). 

GO No visit to Madrid 

in December is 

complete without an 

afternoon browsing 

the stalls on the 

Plaza Mayor. The 

Christmas market here 

sells toys, traditional 

nativity scenes and 

comedy wigs. 

ESCAPE La Granja, 

close to Segovia, 

features an 18thcentury 

Bourbon 

Palace and is 

a good starting point 

for a wander into 

the Guadarrama 

mountains. Take the 

one-hour trip on the 

buses running from 

Paseo de la Florida 

11 all day. 

NO WAY! 

The famous statue 

of Madrid’s mascot, 

a bear, located in 

Puerta del Sol, is 

eating berries from 

the madroño tree – 

the berries have a 10% 

alcohol content! 

Simon Hunter

Majorca 

Spain 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI The fare to Palma 

is €15–€20. 

Route 1 goes to 

central Palma 

from 6.10am–2.15am, 

with about four services 

per hour. Tickets: €2. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 O’Neill’s 

(Carrer de Paris, 

Palma Nova) Expect 

great pub food 

served in comfortable 

surroundings at O’Neill’s. 

UP TO €30 Sa Cuina 

de N’Aina (31 Calle 

Rafal, Sencelles, tel: 971 

872 992) Breathe in 

the tantalising aroma 

of meat roasting in a 

wood-fi red oven at this 

family-run restaurant. 

Indulge in the delicious 

steaks, but make sure 

you leave room for 

a homemade dessert. 

UP TO €50 Le Taj 

(20 Calle Espartero, tel: 

971 289 016) Authentic 

Indian restaurant 

offering fi ve-course set 

menus every night. 

EXCLUSIVE Villa 

Italia (13 Camino 

de San Carlos, Port 

d’Andratx, tel: 971 

674 100) A wonderful 

restaurant with 

a menu full of excellent 

seafood dishes. House 

specialities include 

a tasty tuna carpaccio 

and sole encased in an 

almond crust. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Molly 

Malone (5 Carrer 

Monseñor Palmer) 

Recently refurbished 

Molly Malone’s is a 

great spot to start off or 

wind down an evening 

out with a soundtrack of 

international hits. 

LIVE MUSIC Sala 

Assaig (16 Gremi 

Porgadors, tel: 971 431 

344) If you like your 

music loud and heavy, 

then this is the place 

to be. It regularly hosts 

local and international 

rock and punk gigs in an 

electric atmosphere. 

LATE & LIVELY El 

Divino (Avenida de 

Gabriel Roca) Located 

in an unbeatable 

harbour-front setting, El 

Divino oozes class and 

sophistication across its 

two dance fl oors. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Fashion store 

Addict is a chic venue 

for those seeking the 

coolest and latest 

fashion trends and 

accessories (3 Pelaires, 

tel: 971 720 353). 

SEE See the New Year 

in with style at Palma’s 

Plaza Cort, where locals 

gather in the evening of 

31 December to enjoy 

the free live music 

and fantastic fi rework 

display, armed with the 

traditional 12 grapes and 

lots of cava for when the 

clock strikes midnight. 

GO The grand Plaza 

Major in the heart of 

Palma is buzzing in 

December. The festive 

lights sparkle above the 

Christmas market and 

the whole place brims 

with festive cheer. 

ESCAPE The 

Formentor Peninsula, 

in the north east of the 

island, is a 19km-long 

headland with some 

of the most dramatic 

scenery you will witness 

in Majorca. 

TAXI TAXI 

HOTEL NIXE 

PALACE 

★ ★ ★ ★ ★ 

A stay at this stunning 

beachside residence, 

complete with a 

teardrop shaped 

pool, arched corridors 

and gorgeous spa 

facilities will leave 

you feeling utterly 

refreshed. From 


easyJet.com. 

NO WAY! 

Palma’s Cathedral Sa 

Seu is a mountain of 

sandstone and it’s the 

world’s second largest 

gothic cathedral. 

David Anderson 

Malaga 

Spain 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI The fare is about 

€14 to the city. 

Buses go to 

Malaga every 


6.30am–11.30pm, with 

links to all the coastal 

resorts. Tickets: €1.20. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Taberna 

Dos Gatos (33 

Calle Granada) The 

traditional brick-and-tile 

interior here creates 

a cosy environment 

for tasty innovative 

dishes, including 

succulent partridge. 

UP TO €30 Molino 

Del Cura (Carretera de 

Mijas, Mijas, tel: 952 485 

813) This Thai restaurant 

serves authentic dishes 

like Tom Yum soup 

and green and red 

curries in moodily-lit, 

exotic surroundings. 

UP TO €50 Schilo 

(Finca Cortesin, 

Carretera de Casares, 


tel: 952 937 800) The 

menu here delicately 

fuses Middle Eastern 

and European cuisine 

resulting in exciting 

taste combinations 

such as foie gras gyoza 

with truffl e sauce and 

pannacota made with 

tofu, caviar and gold leaf. 

EXCLUSIVE Adolfo 

(12 Paseo Marítimo 

Pablo Ruíz Picasso, 

Málaga, tel: 952 601 

914) One of the bestknown 

city restaurants 

with smooth service 

and delicious entrées 

like vieiras con setas 

(scallops with wild 

mushrooms) and 

roast goat in rosemaryhoney 

sauce. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY The 

Gallery (24 Calle Miguel 

Márquez, Fuengirola) 

This elegant wine bar 

houses an exhibition 

space where local 

artists showcase their 

work. Expect friendly 

service and an excellent 

selection of wines. 

LIVE MUSIC ZZ 

Pub (6 Calle Tejón y 

Rodriguez, tel: 952 244 

1595) A funky late-night 

club where you can 

squeeze in on busy 

Mondays and Thursdays 

to indulge in a little 

dancing to the range of 

regular live bands. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Dreamers (Carretera 

Cadiz, Puerto Bánus, tel: 

952 812 080) A huge 

number of clubbers pack 

out this massive party 

palace at the weekends. 

It plays a mix of house 

and garage music in a 

great party atmosphere. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Malaga’s 

swanky marble-clad 

Marqués de Larios 

pedestrian shopping 

street is lined with 

small shops, designer 

boutiques and top 

international chains. 

SEE Malaga’s Grand 

Verdiales Fiesta, on 

28 December, is 

a boisterous carnival of 

music and dance. There 

are plenty of people 

packing out the streets 

resplendent in elaborate 

and colourful costumes. 

GO Splash out on 

a drink at one of the 

famous front-line bars 

in Puerto Banús – 

like the Sinatra Bar 

– and indulge in a little 

jet-set spotting. 

ESCAPE The 

windblown Costa de la 

Luz (Coast of Light) is 

only a couple of hours 

drive from the Costa del 

Sol on the toll road to 

Cádiz. It’s the perfect 

place to get away from 

urban Malaga, there’s 

very little development 

here and the beaches 

are white, sandy and 

seemingly endless. 

NO WAY! 

Spanish children 

come out real winners 

at Christmas time 

with a double dose of 

presents. The Spanish 

celebrate both 25 

December, and the 

most important 

celebration, Reyes 

(Three King’s Day) 

on 6 January, when 

there are processions, 

parties and more 

gifts for the kids. 

Josephine Quintero


Malta 

Malta 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





A fi xed-rate, 

20-minute ride to 

Valletta costs €15.75. 

Route 8 to Valletta 

terminus takes 


BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Brookies 

(1–2 Wied Sara Street, 

Gozo, tel: 2155 9524) 

A typical Gozitan 

farmhouse serving 

great pasta dishes in 

charming surroundings. 

UP TO €30 Garam 

Masalaa (11 Ta’Xbiex 

Seafront, tel: 9902 1882) 

The husband and wife 

team behind this casual, 

authentic eatery cook 

up an eclectic mix of 

Indian/Maltese dishes. 

Don’t miss the fried 

paneer (cottage cheese) 

and spicy samosas. 

UP TO €50 Do Brazil 

(Portomaso Marina, tel: 

2742 0000) Skewered 

treats and all-youcan-eat 

meats are the 

highlights of the menu 

at this restaurant, which 

brings scrumptious 

Brazilian fare to Malta. 

Enjoy great food and 

delicious caipirinhas. 

EXCLUSIVE Tarragon 

(Church Street, St 

Paul’s Bay, tel: 2157 

3759) With inspiring sea 

views and a gourmet 

menu, Tarragon is 

a delight for all of the 

senses. The menu is 

passionately sourced 

by head chef-proprietor 

Marvin Gauci – don’t 

miss his melt-in-yourmouth 

fi sh dishes or 

Argentinian steaks. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Il Forn Art 

Gallery & Wine Bar 

(27 Triq it-Tramuntana, 

tel: 2182 0379) As the 

name suggests, this 

quaint wine bar doubles 

as an art gallery for local 

talent. An exhaustive 

wine list and great bar 

nibbles are found in an 

enchanting building 

dating back to 1637. 

LIVE MUSIC Malata 

(Palace Square, Valletta, 

tel: 2123 3967) Known 

for its French cuisine 

in the middle of one 

of Valletta’s prettiest 

squares, Malata is 

also famed for its 

jazz performances, 

every Tuesday and 

Friday evening. 

LATE & LIVELY Axis 

(St George’s Road, 

Paceville, tel: 2135 

8078) The original and 

arguably the best club 

in Malta, Axis boasts 

spacious dance fl oors, 

great tunes and a top 

location in the heart of 

happening Paceville. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Combine 

Maltese souvenirs with 

Christmas shopping at 

Mdina Glass, a workshopboutique. 

Shop among 

selections of unique 

glass-blown items, 

including Christmas 

tree decorations (Ta 

Qali Crafts Village, 

mdinaglass.net). 

SEE While Malta may 

not seem like an obvious 

theatre destination, local 

companies offer fi rstrate 

performances and 

Christmas is packed with 

shows in English. These 

include the pantomime 

Peter Panto at MFCC (18 

December–3 January, 

madc.biz) and Aladdin 

(18–30 December, 

Manoel Theatre, 

teatrumanoel.com.mt). 

GO For a traditional 

Maltese Christmas, 

head to Midnight Mass, 

held at most churches 

on Christmas Eve. 

The celebrations are 

followed by an earlymorning 

breakfast. 

ESCAPE The Three 

Cities – Vittoriosa, 

Senglea and Cospicua 

– are often overlooked 

as day trips, but are 

easily reached from 

Valletta. Discover gems 

such as the Inquisitor’s 

Palace, the Vittoriosa 

Waterfront and the 

quaint backstreets with 

oodles of charm. 

TAXI TAXI 

NO WAY! 

Malta has one of the 

world’s oldest Christian 

populations and the 

small island has 365 

churches – one for every 

day of the year. 

Jo Caruana 

Manchester 

UK 


CURRENCY £ 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 






centre costs £20. 

Trains depart for the 

city centre every 


£3.10–£5.40 single; 

£3.20–£10 return. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Kabana 

(52 Back Turner Street, 

tel: 0161 835 2447) 

Winner of several dining 

awards, Kabana has the 

lunchtime curry market 

cornered. Tuck into 

channa dal, shish kebab 

and oven-fresh naan. 


Green House (331 

Great Western Street, 

Rusholme, tel: 0161 224 

0730) This vegetarian 

restaurant has been 

serving great classics 

such as stuffed 

aubergine with Stilton 

and vegetable bake 

since 1983, attracting 

celebrities such as 

Moby along the way. 

Sitting comfortably? 

UP TO €50 Rhubarb 

(167 Burton Road, 

West Didsbury, tel: 

0161 448 8887) 

Recommended in the 

Michelin guide, Rhubarb 

serves contemporary 

English food in simple 

surrounds. Choice picks 

from the menu include 

Lancashire steak with 

hash browns and a trio 

of rhubarb desserts. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Lakota 

(Deansgate Locks, 3A–5 

Whitworth Street West, 

tel: 0161 819 5858) 

This canal-side bar and 

restaurant provides an 

escape from the hustle 

and bustle of the city 

centre with light meals, 

coffee and cocktails. 

LIVE MUSIC Night 

& Day Café (26 

Oldham Street, tel: 

0161 236 4597) This 

café-bar plays host 

to the hippest bands. 

Recent guests include 

EXCLUSIVE 

RESTAURANT 

Luso (63 Bridge 


5550) Manchester’s 

only Portuguese 

restaurant has 

garnered praise for 

dishes that include 

pork vindaloo and 

homemade custard 

tartlets. Browse a 

wine list selected from 

Portuguese vineyards. 

advertising@ink-publishing.com | www.ink-publishing.com | Tel: +44 (0)20 7613 8795 

Everything Everything 

and The Delays. 

LATE & LIVELY 

House 9 (9 Century 

Street, tel: 0161 832 1118) 

Pushing a soundtrack of 

house, electro and bass 

anthems this compact 

new club comes with 

lounging areas and a 

funky crowd. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Tucked away in 

a Victorian mall, Ran is 

a shoe shop specialising 

in hard-to-fi nd trainers, 

shoes and boots. Hip 

suppliers include 

Addict, Ugg and Trippen 

(7–8 St Ann’s Arcade). 

SEE December is 

panto time and the pick 

of the crop is Grimm 

Tales at the Library 

Theatre, adapted 

by Poet Laureate, 

Carol Ann Duffy (5 

December–23 January, 

St Peter’s Square). 

GO St Ann’s Square 

hosts a seasonal market 

this month, with local 

and European food 

traders on site. Just next 

door, St Ann’s Church 

offers a programme of 

free carol concerts too. 

ESCAPE Make for the 

historic seaside town of 

Formby, an hour’s drive 

from Manchester. The 

beach, rolling dunes and 

red squirrel sanctuary 

offer a softer take on the 

British winter. 

NO WAY! 

Classic British fi lm, 

A Taste Of Honey 

(1958), was written 

by Manchester’s 

Shelagh Delaney 

when she was just 17. 

Ruth Allan 

Imagine over 4.5 million people looking 

at your advert for a minimum of two hours. 

Make part of your plan today 

150x28 (4.5 MILLION).indd 1 15/4/09 13:42:27

Marrakech 

Morocco 


CURRENCY MAD 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI The fare is about 


The hourly L19 bus 

goes to the Jemaa 

el Fna in 20–30 minutes. 

Tickets: MAD20 single. 

a courtyard, the food at 

Dar Marjana is classic 

Moroccan, specialising 

in delicious roast lamb. 

EXCLUSIVE Le 

Pavillon (47 Derb 

Zaouia, Bab Doukkala 

Mosquee, Medina North, 

tel: 0524 387 040) 

A 19th-century riad full 

of romantic alcoves that 

you can tuck into before 

feasting on exquisite, 

French haute-cuisine. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Café des 

Epices (75 Rahba 

Lakdima, tel: 0524 391 

770) In the corner of the 

old spice market, order 

a mint tea and watch 

the comings and goings 

of the market. 

LIVE MUSIC Le 

Comptoir (37 Avenue 

Echouhada, tel: 0524 

437 702) With a funky 

atmosphere, the 

elegant bar area at Le 

Comptoir is a great 

place for a drink. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Theatro (Hotel Es 

Saadi, Avenue El 

Quadissia, tel: 0524 448 

811) This refurbished, 

former theatre is a sight 

to see and place to be 

seen. Join the people 

lounging around on 

four-poster beds! 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Go to Kaianhila 

Bougagé for accessories, 

rugs and antiques 

handmade by Sub- 

Saharan tribes (6–7 Rue 

Lamoissine, Kissariat 

Lamoisni, Medina). 

SEE The Marrakech 

International Film 

Festival, from 4–12 

December, transforms 

Marrakech’s famous 

central square 

Jemaa el Fna into 

an open-air cinema 

(festivalmarrakech.info). 

GO The Hammam 

Nikhil – Moroccan-style 

baths – is a great place 

to go to get steamed, 

washed and scrubbed 

by an attendant sporting 

a textured mitt (1 Zohor, 

Ain Itti). 

ESCAPE Enjoy 

beautiful surroundings 

at La Pause in the Agafay 

Desert, 45 minutes from 

Marrakech. Partake in 

crazy golf, horseback 

riding, trekking or 

cycling (lapausemarrakech.com). 

TAXI TAXI 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Nid’ 

Cigogne (60 Place des 

Tombeaux Saadiennes, 

tel: 0524 382 092) It 

doesn’t look like much 

from the outside, but 

this calm spot is ideal 

for escaping the crowds. 

UP TO €30 Le Square 

(Rue de Paris, tel: 0524 

423 989) This walled 

garden restaurant is run 

by a friendly couple who 

serve a diverse menu 

of Asian-French cuisine 

alongside Moroccan fare. 

UP TO €50 Dar 

Marjana (15 Derb Sidi 

Ali Tair, Bab Doukkala, 

Medina North, tel: 0524 

385 110) Housed within 

an exquisite building 

which opens onto 

RIAD 

TA’ACHCHAQA 

★ ★ ★ ★ ★ 

A riad set in the 

historical centre of 

Marrakech, giving 

guests the ability to 

explore the city by foot. 

Lounge about in the 

sitting room, covered 

with bright cushions. 




NO WAY! 

The probable origin of the 

name Marrakech is from 

the Amazigh (Berber) 

words mur (n) akush, 

which can be translated 

as “Land of God”. 

Emma Jamison/ 

hG2.com 

Marseille 

France 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI The fare to the city 


A bus leaves for 

Marseille’s Gare 

St Charles every 20 


12.45am. Tickets: €8.50. 

BON APPETIT 


Comptoir Dugommier 

(1 Boulevard 

Dugommier, tel: 04 

9162 2121) The dish 

of the day at this 

neighbourhood eatery 

consists of tasty keftas 

– Armenian meat balls 

made from beef, onions 

and parsley – along with 

some bulgur wheat and 

a green salad. 

UP TO €30 L’Eau 

Vive (Place du Colonel 

Edon) Open to pilgrims 

and visitors to the 

towering Notre Dame 

de la Garde Cathedral, 

this canteen-restaurant 

with a spiritual feel is 

known for its traditional 


fare served by nuns 

and missionaries from 

around the world. 

UP TO €50 29 Place 

aux Huiles (29 Place 

aux Huiles, tel: 04 

9133 2644) Cosy and 

contemporary, this 

up-to-the-minute 


modern, inventive dishes 

courtesy of talented 

chef Jerôme Anfray 

who has teamed up 

with expert sommelier 

Mickael Zortian. 

EXCLUSIVE Le 

Caribou (38 Place 

Thiars, tel: 04 9133 

2263) Treat yourself 

to a mouth-watering 

Christmas menu at 

the Corsican Cantoni’s 

family-run restaurant, 

founded in 1945. The 

exterior may resemble 

a mountain chalet but 

the menu is resolutely 

Mediterranean. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Victor Café 

(76 Boulevard Charles 

Livon, tel: 04 8800 

4600) Smiling waiters 

serve smooth cocktails 

at this trendy loungebar 

in the four-star 

New Hotel. 

LIVE MUSIC 

L’Eolienne (5 Rue 

Méolan, tel: 04 9137 

8689) Meaning wind 

turbine, this newly 

created basement 

venue stages regular 

concerts where music 

lovers can savour 

a glass of wine over fi ne, 

diverse live music. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Planet Mundo K’Fe 

(50 Cours Julien, tel: 04 

9192 4572) Afrobeat, 

jazz, reggae and salsa 




on 0044 (0) 207 613 8795 

music are all on the 

agenda at this festive, 

late night address. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP A Provençal 

Christmas is steeped in 

tradition and an historic 

rite is the 13 desserts 

consisting of the pompe 

à l’huile, sweet bread 

fl avoured with orange 

blossom essence, black 

and white nougat and 

dried fruit. Indulge in 

such festive goodies at 

the Patisserie Plauchut 

(168 La Canebière). 

SEE The children will 

love the ice skating 

champion Igor Bobrin’s 

marvellous Russian 

version of Mary Poppins 

on ice, at the Parc 

Chanot on 5 December 

(tel: 04 9176 1600). 

GO All roads in 

Marseille lead to the 

Vieux Port which dates 

back some 2,600 years. 

Pull up a chair in one of 

the atmospheric quayside 

cafés and watch 

the world go by. 

ESCAPE Aubagne, 

home to the legendary 

santons or Christmas 

crêche fi gures, is the 

Christmas capital of 

Provence – head 20km 

east on the A50. Sip a 

mulled wine while buying 

gifts at the colourful 


NO WAY! 

To combat absenteeism, 

Marseille’s Frédéric 

Mistral School is offering 

tickets to Olympique 

de Marseille’s football 

matches to students in 

the class with the most 

regular attendance. 

Adrienne Bourgeon 

00000 EasyJet Sales 4.5mil Banne1 1 11/11/09 17:01:54


Milan 

Italy 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 

MILAN LINATE 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI 


the centre costs 

about €25. 

ATM’s route 73 

connects with 

the metro at San 

Babila. Tickets: €1. 

The Starfl y goes 

to Centrale station 

roughly every 


6.10am–11.30pm 

(10pm at weekends). 


MILAN MALPENSA 





Holiday Taxis 

(easyJet. 

holidaytaxis.com) 

take you from home to 

the airport, then city 

or destination. 

TAXI 

The journey 

to the centre 

costs about €70 

and takes about 

50 minutes. 

The Malpensa 

Shuttle departs 

for Centrale station 

roughly every 


5.30am–1.20am 

and takes about 50 

minutes. Tickets: €7. 

The Malpensa 

Express departs 

from Terminal 1 for 

Cadorna station 

roughly every 


5.53am–1.30am 

and takes about 40 


BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Pizza 

Big (30 Viale Brianza, 

tel: 02 284 6548) 

This trendy hangout 

near Centrale station 

serves up some of the 

thinnest pizzas you’ve 

even seen, but with 

plenty of tasty toppings 

piled up on top. Choose 

from a wide range 

of fl avours, all for 

around €10 for 

a pizza and a drink. 

UP TO €30 Le Rosse 

(79 Corso Garibaldi, 

tel: 02 9287 0416) 

A small but busy 

venue in the Brera 

district serving up 

salami and all kinds of 

Italian cold meats, as 

well as pasta and other 

superb mains. Try a 

platter of their fi nest 

meat selection with a 

glass of delicious wine. 

The pride of place here 

goes to two ancient 

slicing machines, which 

are static exhibits in 

this rustic restaurant. 

UP TO €50 Donati 

(4 Via Cassiodoro, 

tel: 02 4331 9047) 

Great for a lively meal 

with friends, Donati 

offers traditional 

Tuscan and Italian fare. 

The menu consists of 

pasta and grilled fi sh 

dishes, and you even 

get an aperitif and 

snack on the house 

while you order. 

Angelo Azzurro 

(14 Via Battistotti 

Sassi, tel: 02 719 350) 

Not far from Linate 

airport in the leafy 

eastern fringe of the 

city, this place does 

quality Sicilian food 

in a lively, welcoming 

atmosphere. The 

mouth-watering 

range of antipasti 

is accompanied 

by seafooddominated 

mains. 

EXCLUSIVE Mauro 

(5 Via Colonetta, 

tel: 02 546 1380) 

City professionals 

gather at this smart 

fi sh restaurant to 

sample the highquality 

scampi and 

sea bass. It’s an 

excellent place for 

a romantic dinner. 

Alfredo Gran San 

Bernardo (14 Via 

Borgese, tel: 02 331 

9000) Classic cookery 

from the Lombardia 

region is the selling 

point of this traditional 

eatery. It’s the perfect 

place to sample 

the local delicacy 

– saffron yellow 

risotto alla milanese. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Frida 

(3 Via Pollaiuolo, 

tel: 02 680 260) 

The Isola district, 

north of Garibaldi 

station has plenty of 

alternative shops and 

bars such as this 

huge, converted 

factory space. It’s 

great for cocktails 

and DJ-selected 

sounds all week long. 

LIVE MUSIC 

Alcatraz (23 Via 

Valtellina, tel: 02 

6901 6352) Probably 

Milan’s best known 

live music venue, 

Alcatraz is a big, old 

warehouse on the 

north side of the 

city that pulls in 

international rock 

and pop names. 

There’s also dance 

nights with famous 

DJs. Get there, and 

stay there late, Rodrigo 

& Gabriela play here 

on 3 December. 

LATE & LIVELY 

ATM Bar (15 Bastioni 

di Porta Volta, tel: 02 

8945 4988) One of 

the city’s trendiest 

venues, this alternative 

American-style bar 

ART HOTEL 

NAVIGLI 

★ ★ ★ ★ ★ 

The Art Hotel Navigli 

boasts an impressive 

art collection and 

holds regular 

exhibitions. Relax in 

its plush, spacious 

rooms after a day 

exploring the city. 




occupies an old tram 

offi ce set in the 

middle of the street. 

It attracts a young 

clientèle as well as 

one or two models, 

it’s the place to be seen 

in this swanky city. 

G Lounge (8 Via 

Larga, tel: 02 805 

3042) An upmarket 

disco-bar covering 

two fl oors right in the 

centre of town, 

with quality DJs and 

free entry. During 

the day it serves 

decent coffee along 

with superb sandwiches 

and light bites. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP For fantastic, 

fashionable sportswear, 

head to the brand 

new Fila store. Set in 

one of the most chic 

areas of the city, this 

latest opening offers 

the full tennis-inspired 

range as well as 

polo shirts, bags, 

accessories and 

the Rolando limited 

edition products 

(2 Corso Como). 

SEE Oh Bej! Oh 

Bej! runs from 5–8 

December. Every 

year Milan organises 

this ancient Christmas 

market selling 

sweets and local 

products. The annual 

event takes place at 

Castello Sforzesco, 

the medieval brick 

castle built to defend 

the ancient city. The 

castle itself is well 

worth a visit, open 

daily, with museums 

packed with art 

and artefacts 

(milanocastello.it). 

GO This year the 

Pinacoteca di Brera 

marks its bicentenary 

and December 

sees the climax of 

a year of celebrations 

in this great gallery. 

Brera is the chic 

artistic quarter of the 

city and one of the 

best places for 

nightlife. The narrow 

streets come alive 

with late-opening 

shops and bars as 

well as stalls selling 

crafts. Via Solferino 

and Corso Garibaldi 

are the main streets 

– take the green line 

metro to Moscova 

(28 Via Brera). 

ESCAPE One of the 

best ski resorts easily 

accessible from Milan 

is Livingo. Its high 

position in the Alps 

(more than 1800ft) 

almost certainly 

guarantees snow 


season and it boasts 

115km of varied ski 

terrain, super hotels 

and a buzzing après 

ski scene. Until 25 

December, stay at 

least four nights in 

a participating hotel or 

apartment and you’ll 

get your skipass free! 

Check out livigno.eu for 

more information. 

NO WAY! 

The word ciao, used 

throughout Italy 

to say hello or 

goodbye to a person 

you know, derives 

from the Venetian 

dialect s-ciào vostro 

or s-ciào su meaning 

“I am your slave”. 

Charles Searson

Montpellier 

France 


CURRENCY € 

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Holiday Taxis 





TAXI 


the centre of town 


Take the shuttle 

bus to Place de 

l’Europe. Tickets: €4.90 

single; €5.40, including 

the tram. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 

L’Ayahuasca 

(18 rue d’Alger) A South 

American hangout 

serving authentic cuisine 

for next to nothing 

– expect a friendly 

welcome and live music 

in the evenings. 

UP TO €30 L’Escalier 

(6 Rue Jules Latreihe, 

tel: 04 6760 5186) Get 

a lunchtime bargain in 

this rosy pink dining 

room. Enjoy delicious 

hams, sides of beef 

and mountains of 

other charcuterie. 

UP TO €50 L’Ecrin 

d’Anais (15 Rue de la 

Fontaine, tel: 04 6702 

1450) Minimal décor and 

white napery are teamed 

with smiley service and 

refi ned cooking. Try 

beautiful salmon and 

chicken with cream 

and almonds. 

EXCLUSIVE Les 

Gourmands (40 

L’Avenue Saint Lazare, tel: 

04 6772 8276) This place 

is always full of locals 

dining on special menus 

and fabulous cooking. 

The crowd pleaser is 

the whole lobster menu 

at €55 (plus wine and 

service). Book ahead. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Le 

Majimoz’art Café (2 

Rue Terral, tel: 04 6759 

5084) Made up of four 

little hideaway rooms, 

Gaudi-esque décor and 

sometimes a little live 

jazz – this is a very cool 

place for a relaxed drink. 

LIVE MUSIC Le 

Barock Café (6 Rue 

Cope Cambes, tel: 04 

PLAGE DE 

L’ESPIGUETTE 

GO A winter walk on 

any of the beaches 

out of town will fi re 

up an appetite for an 

extra mince pie. The 

Plage de l’Espiguette 

is one of the best 

– the fabulous sand 

dunes stretch forever 

and at this time of 

year you’ll have them 

all to yourself. 

6792 9552) Before 

9pm this place is a 

chic wine bar, but after 

hours it becomes full 

of fun-loving students 

for darts, beer, billiards, 

open-mic and loud rock. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Ayer’s Rock (108 

Rue de Rhodes, tel: 

04 6765 5476) With 

a swinging crowd, live 

music, Australian beer, 

cocktails and juggling 

bar staff, Ayer’s keeps 

the clientèle partying 

inside and queuing 

outside. A long-standing 

Montpellier favourite. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Jouet Stock is 

a little toy shop 

crammed with brilliant 

stuff for kids – young 

and old alike – at 

slashed prices. You’ll 

end up going home with 

more toys than Santa 

(5 Rue Anatole France). 

SEE The Records, CDs 

and DVDs Fair (La Foire 

aux Disques) is held on 

6 December at Zenith 

Sud. You have to pay 

€3 to get in but bargains 

are guaranteed – 

expect to fi nd rows 

and rows of cult vinyl 

and one-off records. 

ESCAPE Orange 

is only 90 minutes 

away by fast train and 

is a feast of Roman 

architecture, churches 

and shops. Don’t miss 

the museum and the 

beautiful cobbled 

streets (ville-orange.fr). 

NO WAY! 

Montpellier is 

situated only 16 feet 

above sea level. 

Samantha David 

Munich 

Germany 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI 



Buses leave for 

the centre every 

20 minutes, from 6am– 

10pm. Tickets: €10 


BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 

Jagdschlössl (162 

Nymphen Burgerstrasse, 

tel: 089 168 9241) This 

cosy pub in the west of 

the city serves classic 

Bavarian dishes at 

remarkable prices. 


Schmock (52 

Augustenstrasse, 

tel: 089 5235 0535) 

An Israeli restaurant 

well-known for its great 

quality food and wine, 

friendly service and 

reasonable prices. 

UP TO €50 Feinkost 

Electronica (20 

Sternstrasse, tel: 

089 5487 5748) This 

restaurant-lounge- 


club is a newcomer to 

Lehel’s swish gastro 

scene. The food is light, 

Mediterranean cuisine, 

with an emphasis on 

local products. 

EXCLUSIVE Tramin 

(7 Lothringerstrasse, tel: 

089 4445 4090) The 

simple white interior 

of this new gourmet 

hotspot is something 

of a contrast to the 

adventurous creations 

on its menu. The brains 

behind the kitchen 

have taken top quality 

local ingredients and 

used them in unusual 

combinations that push 

culinary boundaries. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Bar 

Centrale (23 

Ledererstrasse, tel: 

089 223 762) This 

Italian-run bar is 

packed around the 

clock. It offers a great 

atmosphere, wonderful 

coffee and a selection of 

drinks and snacks. 

LIVE MUSIC 59:1 

(27 Sonnenstrasse, tel: 

089 242 0570) One 

of the newer locations 

on Munich’s nightlife 

scene, this bar features 

alternative rock and 

pop acts most nights 

of the week and boasts 

well-priced drinks. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Edmoses (2 

Prinzregentenstrasse) 

Edmoses’ big glass 

windows make it 

something of 

a nightclub showcase. 

Enjoy the grooves 

and indulge in some 

cocktails with Munich’s 

beautiful crowd, well 

into the early hours. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Get lost in 

Munich’s high-end 

department store, 

Oberpollinger. Along 

with designer fashions 

and cosmetics, you’ll 

fi nd a wonderful 

selection of gorgeous 

homeware (18 

Neuhauser Strasse). 

SEE Munich is the 

place to be for 

a good old-fashioned 

Christmas. Don’t miss 

the quaint market on 

the Rindermarkt, where 

you’ll fi nd thousands of 

wooden nativity fi gures. 

GO Munich’s 

studentland, Schwabing, 

comes into its own at 

this time of year. Not 

only does it have a nice 

selection of alternative 

shops and bars, but 

the district’s Christmas 

market is also well worth 

a visit if you’re looking for 

something a bit different. 

ESCAPE The Austrians 

do Christmas in a big 

way. Head to Salzburg for 

one of the most popular 

markets in Europe, 

attracting around one 

million visitors every 

year. Enjoy the romantic 

streets, festive hubbub 

and alpine backdrop. Two 

trains leave Munich every 

hour and the journey 


NO WAY! 

Schloss Neuschwanstein 

is a huge attraction 

about 90km from 

Munich. It’s said to be 

the inspiration for the 

Sleeping Beauty castle 

at Disneyland, as well 

as appearing in Chitty 

Chitty Bang Bang. 

Jill Henne


Murcia 

Spain 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

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Holiday Taxis 





TAXI The fare to Murcia 

city is about €45. 

dishes. For dessert try 

the warm chocolate 

mousse with bitter 

orange sauce. 

EXCLUSIVE Arco 

(Hotel Arco de San 

Juan, 10 Plaza de 

Ceballos, tel: 968 

210 455) Dine in this 

restored 18th-century 

palace and enjoy a taste 

of the local markets 

created by the Moors 

1,000 years ago. 

Specialities include 

a wonderful lobster stew. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY El 

Frasquito (3 Calle Vara 

del Ray, tel: 968 222 

292) After a hard 

day’s sightseeing 

this bar is the ideal 

spot to start the 

evening with a sherry 

and some tapas. 

LIVE MUSIC 

Auditorio y Centro 

de Congresos Victor 

Villegas (Avenida 

Primero de Mayo, tel: 

968 341 060) This 

fantastic venue hosts 

all kinds of concerts, 

ranging from jazz to 

indie rock. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Garaje de Tía María 

(43 Avenida Miguel 

de Cervantes) The 

eclectic mix of music 

on the speakers 

includes Britpop, 

rock and house, 

and there are 

occasional live acts 

on selected evenings. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Browse casually 

through the shops of 

Calle Trapería. This 

pedestrianised street 

has designer stores and 

a small arcade, selling 

unique designs. If 

you’ve already spent 

all your money, enjoy 

the fantastic Christmas 

window displays. 

SEE Funk-rock band 

Living Colour are 

playing at the Auditorio 

Victor Villegas on 18 

December. The popular 

New York band will 

play in Murcia as part of 

their world tour. 

GO The city museum 

at Plaza de las Agustinas 

is a beautiful piece of 

architecture, situated 

within a fi ne 16thcentury 

palace. Inside 

the refurbished centre 

are a number of 

artefacts tracing the 

history of Murcia, 

and the adjoining 

Moorish garden is 

a tranquil place to relax 

under palm trees. 

ESCAPE The sea 

port of Cartagena lies 

40 minutes away by 

car. This intriguing 

city was founded by 

Hannibal’s army in the 

third century BC but it 

was the Romans who 

left their mark with a 

wonderful amphitheatre 

and theatre. Hike up to 

the hilltop castle, which 

offers spectacular views 

over the harbour. 

TAXI TAXI 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Carrefour 

Zaraiche (106 Avenida 

Miguel de Cervantes, 

tel: 968 291 212) The 

self-service restaurant in 

the Carrefour shopping 

centre serves tasty, 

perfectly priced meals 

throughout the day. 

UP TO €30 Don 

Camilo (5 Plaza Mayor, 

tel: 968 219 063) An 

Italian-style restaurant 

in the historic quarter 

which dishes up all the 

usual pizza and pasta 

classics and more. 

The house specialities 

include tuna lasagne and 

squid in tomato sauce. 

UP TO €50 Azafrán 

(3 Calle de la Palma, tel: 

968 523 172) With an 

emphasis on modernity, 

head chef José Luis 

Botella produces 

fantastically creative 

NO WAY! 

Millions of tonnes of 

salt is scraped off the 

bottom of the largest 

salt lake in Torrevieja 

and sold to markets 

all over the world. When 

it dries out the iodine in 

the air is said to make 

it one of the healthiest 

areas in the world. 

David Jones 

Nantes 

France 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI A journey to town 

costs €25 and 


The Tan Air shuttle 

bus picks up from 

outside Hall 2 and runs 

to Nantes South SNCF 

train station, Cité des 

Congress and the town 

centre. Tickets: €6.20. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Fleur 

de Sel (3 Rue de la 

Bâclerie, tel: 02 4012 

4436) Situated in the 

Bouffay quarter and 

open every day, this 

prize-winning crêperie 

offers galettes and 

crêpes with a great 

variety of local fl avours. 

UP TO €30 Les 

Pieds dans le Plat 

(13 Rue Jean Jacques 

Rousseau, tel: 02 

4069 2515) This old, 

stone-walled but highly 

colourful restaurant 

serves traditional 

French cuisine. 

EXCLUSIVE 

L’Atlantide (16 Quai 

Ernest Renaud, tel: 02 

4073 2323) Michelinstarred 

and often 

the reserve of big 

business clients, 

L’Atlantide is one of the 

city’s best restaurants. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY IDN Café 

(21 Quai Antilles, tel: 02 

5182 8871) A modern 

riverside café in the 

redeveloped docklands 

with a range of cocktails, 

wines and beers. 

LIVE MUSIC Le Lieu 

Unique (2 Rue de la 

Biscuiterie, tel: 02 5182 

1500) This beautiful, old 

domed biscuit factory 

is now a funky cultural 

centre-bar-restaurant. 

Enjoy the constantly 

changing agenda of art, 

music and theatre. 


Marlowe (1 Place Saint 

Vincent, tel: 02 4048 

4765) The French love 

UP TO 

€50 

La Cigale (4 Place 

Graslin, tel: 02 5184 

9494) Dine in a 

Nantes institution, 

beneath original 

stunning tiling adding 

to the sumptuous art 

deco feel. Grab a table 

and share a huge 

tiered seafood platter 

and a bottle of local 

Loire white wine. 

DON’T BE LOST FOR WORDS ON HOLIDAY! 

Download a mobile phrasebook for Italian, French, Spanish or German simply by texting: 

1. text Spanish EJ to 60300 

2. text Italian EJ to 60300 

3. text German EJ to 60300 

4. text French EJ to 60300 

*Guides cost £1.50 plus normal UK / roaming costs. Will work on most colour screen phones. Download requires internet connection. 

affair with Americana 

continues in this 

1960s-themed bar with 

authentic décor. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Head to the 

Place Royal for the 

Marché de Noël and get 

your fi ll of Christmas 

spirit, entertainment 

and gifts in the Germanesque 

market. 

SEE Rue Crébillon 

is one of the main 

shopping streets in 

Nantes – a narrow street 

lined with stunning 

buildings, and at this 

time of year is turned 

into a winter wonderland 

with Christmas lights. 

GO Place Royal has 

hosted an outdoor 

ice-rink the past few 

Christmas holidays, 

which grows in 

popularity each year. 

Put on your skates 

or sit on the sidelines 

and relax, sipping 

a hot chocolate. 

ESCAPE A little fi shing 

village on the left bank 

of the Loire, Trentemoult 

is a lovely place for 

a walk. Find your way 

through a surprising 

maze of huddled 

colourful houses 

before returning to 

the quay for a drink 

or a bite to eat 

overlooking the river. 

NO WAY! 

Nantes was the 

birthplace of famous 

Around the World in 80 

Days writer Jules Verne. 

There is a museum 

dedicated to him and 

you’ll see his face 

everywhere in the city. 

Chris Locke 

00000 EPHONE MAN 150x28 Banner.i1 1 15/4/09 12:57:00

Naples 

Italy 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





The 20-minute 

journey costs €35. 

The Alibus airport 

shuttle stops 

after a woman who built 

her reputation serving 

Neapolitan fare to local 

workmen almost a 

century ago, the food 

hasn’t changed much 

– expect fresh fi sh. 

EXCLUSIVE La 

Bersagliera (10–11 

Borgo Marinari, tel: 081 

764 6016) Exquisite 

cuisine with bay views. 

Recommended menu 

selections include egg 

tagliatelle with octopus 

and pastry desserts. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Gran Bar 

Rivera (Via Riviera di 

Chiaia, tel: 081 665 026) 

Stop here at the end of 

a night out for a coffee or 

a cocktail for the road. 

LIVE MUSIC La 

Bavarese (241 Via 

Agnano Astroni, tel: 081 

570 3466) This playful 

disco-pub features live 

music, karaoke and 

even free tango lessons 

on Latin music nights. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Chez Moi (13 Via del 

Parco Margherita, tel: 

081 407 526) A glitzy 

nightclub where you’ll 

fi nd the crème de la 

crème of Naples. Open 

Thursday–Sunday from 

10pm–4am. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Napoli Mania 

is a unique shop full of 

quirky gifts, such as Tshirts 

with slogans in the 

Neapolitan dialect, along 

with other fun ideas 

(312–313 Via Toledo). 

SEE Naples’ Museo 

Archeologico Nazionale 

di Napoli hosts the 

Gladiator exhibition this 

month. A wide variety 

of gladiator armour, 

helmets, weapons and 

more will be on display 

(19 Piazza Museo). 

GO Take the kids to 

Galleria Umberto and 

have them write their 

handwritten Christmas 

wishes to the fi r tree 

in the centre – Father 

Christmas comes and 

reads them every year. 

ESCAPE 

Herculaneum’s ancient 

ruins are the remains of 

a Roman village that was 

destroyed by the same 

volcanic blast that wiped 

out Pompeii in 79AD. 

It’s a highly interesting 

historical site. Journey 

takes 20 minutes from 

central Naples. 

TAXI TAXI 

at the train station 

and Piazza Municipio. 


BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 O’ 

Scugnizz’ (72 Galleria 

Umberto, tel: 081 401 

199) You’ll fi nd great 

coffee, tasty buffet-style 

goodies, baked pasta 

and pizza by the slice in 

this beautiful Galleria. 

UP TO €30 A 

Taverna do’ Re (2–3 

Fondo Supportico di 

Separazione, tel: 081 

552 2424) The bilingual 

menu and friendly staff 

make it easy to order at 

this restaurant. Choose 

from pizza, sausage 

and greens or spaghetti 

with clams. 

UP TO €50 Zi’ Teresa 

(1 Borgo Marinaro, tel: 

081 764 2565) Named 

HOLIDAY INN 

NAPLES 

★ ★ ★ ★ ★ 

With a central 

location, wide choice 

of stylish rooms and 

excellent additional 

amenities such as 

WiFi and satellite 

TV, you can’t go 

wrong with this hotel. 




NO WAY! 

Order struffoli and 

rococo at bakeries 

and cafés – these two 

Neapolitan pastries are 

only baked during the 

holiday season. 

Tui Cameron 

Newcastle 

UK 


CURRENCY £ 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 






£18 to the centre. 

Metro trains go 

directly to the city 

centre. Tickets: £2.70. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Willi’s 

Coffee Shop (23–25 

Clayton Road, tel: 0191 

281 8123) This busy 

café attracts all walks of 

life with its selection of 

hot and cold food plus 

the speciality, all-day 

breakfasts. 


Francesca (134 Manor 

House Road, tel: 0191 

281 6586) Cheap, 

cheerful and brimming 

with character, this rustic 

Italian restaurant is great 

for lunch or dinner. 

UP TO €50 Beamish 

Park Hotel Bistro 

(Beamish Burn Road, 

Marley Hill, tel: 01207 

230 666) This awardwinning 

restaurant 

is situated within the 


countryside, yet only 10 

minutes from the city 

centre. Seared scallops 

with black pudding and 

chilli jam is one of the 

favourites on the menu. 

EXCLUSIVE The 

Cherry Tree (9 Osborne 

Road, tel: 0191 239 

9924) A jazz pianist 

provides a romantic 

soundtrack as diners 

tuck into traditional 

British-inspired dishes 

at this upmarket yet 

relaxed restaurant. 

The Gressingham 

duck is a winner. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY The 

Strawberry (7–8 

Strawberry Place, tel: 

0191 232 6865) Living in 

the shadow of St James’ 

Park, it’s no surprise 

to see that this pub is 

a shrine to Newcastle 

United. Packed on 

match days, the walls 

are festooned with 

football memorabilia. 


Tyne (Ouseburn, tel: 

0191 265 2550) 

A beer garden and 

great live music makes 

The Tyne a popular 

venue all year round. 

Sunday afternoons 

often feature blues 

music with a mixed bag 

of talent later in the 

evening and midweek. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Aspers Casino (The 

Gate, Newgate Street, 

tel: 0191 255 0400) 

With swanky bars and 

a cool restaurant, you 

might just forget that 

you’re in a casino and 

your million pound 

jackpot could be 

seconds away. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP The city’s oldest 

department store 

Fenwick’s, has a Santa’s 

grotto, breakfast with 

Santa in the café and 

an indulgent Christmas 

window display. Stop 

by to see the windows, 

then fi nd all sorts of 

Christmas treats inside 

(Northumberland 

Street, fenwick.co.uk). 

SEE It wouldn’t 

be Christmas in 

England without the 

classic animated 

fi lm, The Snowman. 

On 23 December, 

catch a screening at 

the futuristic Sage 

Gateshead with a live 

performance by the 

Northern Sinfonia 

(tel: 0191 443 4640, 

thesagegateshead.org). 

GO Skate away the 

Christmas chills on 

the city’s temporary, 

outdoor ice rink outside 

the Centre for Life. It’s 

a great activity for an 

afternoon away from 

shopping or sightseeing 

(Times Square, tel: 

0191 243 8223). 

ESCAPE Teesdale is 

just over an hour’s 

drive south of Newcastle 

and boasts idyllic 

countryside and historic 

market towns. The pick 

of the sights is the 

mighty High Force, 

England’s largest 

waterfall, Bowes Museum 

and Raby Castle. 

NO WAY! 

Every packet of Nestle’s 

chocolate Rolos is made 

in the north east. Make 

sure you keep the last 

one for yourself! 

Michelle Ord


Nice 

France 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI 

The 20-minute ride 


Bus 98 stops at 

Nice’s Old Town 

and the Gare Routière. 


BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Cave de 

la Tour (3 Rue de la 

Tour, tel: 04 9380 0331) 

Lunch on pissaladière 

(Niçois onion tart) and a 

glass of local Bellet wine. 


Cabanon (Point des 

Douaniers, Cap d’Ail, tel: 

04 9378 0194) Perched 

on a rocky outcrop, 

this restaurant dishes 

up tasty marinated 

beef daube, as well as 

panoramic views all the 

way from Monaco to 

Cap Ferrat. 

UP TO €50 Le Caveau 

30 (45 Avenue Félix 

Faure, Cannes, tel: 04 

9339 0633) Le Caveau 

30 stands out from 

its neighbours with 

its delicious Menu du 

Patron. This great threecourse 

meal features 

curried monkfi sh and 

scampi kebabs, plus 

a hefty dessert. 

EXCLUSIVE Les 

Viviers (22 Rue 

Alphonse Karr, tel: 04 

9316 0048) If the holiday 

season makes you long 

for a little decadence, 

look no further: Les 

Viviers’ towering tiers 

of oysters, crab and 

sea urchins should fi t 

the bill perfectly. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY La Trappa 

(2 Rue Jules Gilly, tel: 

04 9380 3369) Before 

9pm, happy hour drinks 

are served at teetering 

tall tables, in a quiet 

corner of the Old Town. 

LIVE MUSIC Paddy’s 

Pub (40 Rue Droite, 

tel: 04 9380 0675) For 

live folk and pop, head 

to this petite Irish pub 

in Nice’s Old Town. 

CATHEDRALE 

ST NICHOLAS 

GO Admire the 

striking ornate domes 

from outside and head 

indoors to see the 

atmospheric interiors 

of Russian orthodox 

Cathédrale Saint 

Nicolas, built during 

the fi rst decade of 

the 20th century 

(Avenue Nicolas II, 

acor-nice.com). 

LATE & LIVELY 

Mocca (1 Boulevard de 

la Croisette, Cannes) 

Cocktails, live DJs and 

many pretty people 

hang out here, 

opposite the Palais du 

Festivals. Put on your 

fi nest outfi t, order 

the weird wasabi and 

cucumber martini and 

hit the dance fl oor. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP This family 

has been glacé-making 

since 1820 and Maison 

Auer is the sweetest 

spot to scoop up 

holiday gifts (7 Rue St 

François de Paule). 

SEE Mid December, 

carol singers populate 

Place Rossetti 

throughout the day, 

adding Christmas 

cheer. From 19 

December, they give 

way to the Old Town’s 

quirky Lou Présépi, 

the annual real-life 

nativity scene. 

ESCAPE For a 

much-needed dose 

of vitamin D in these 

cold winter months, 

amble along Beaulieu 

sur Mer’s sunny 

Promenade Maurice 

Rouvier (20 minutes 

from Nice). 

NO WAY! 

Just before Christmas 

(20th December 

this year), hundreds 

of daring divers 

gather on Plage du 

Ruhl for the annual 

Bain de Noël, the 

Christmas swim: a 

tradition started by 

Scotsman Tobias 

Smollett in 1763. 

Kathryn Tomasetti 

Olbia 

Italy 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI 

The fare to Olbia 

costs €13–€15 

and the journey takes 


The Linea Urbana 

bus goes to the 

centre every 30 minutes 

and takes about eight 


BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Fenu 

Antonello Pizze 

Da Asporto (11 Via 

Ungheria, tel: 0789 

66550) Great for 

a quick bite, tuck into 

the house speciality 

– pizzas loaded 

with many different 

toppings. They also 

do delivery. 

UP TO €30 Canne 

Al Vento (33 Via 

Vignola, tel: 0789 

51609) Favourite of the 

locals, this restaurant 

serves delicious, 

traditional Sardinian 

food. Order the chef’s 

pride and joy – a highly 

guarded secret recipe of 

spaghetti in a creamy, 

tomato and meat sauce. 

Closed on Sunday. 

UP TO €50 Angedras 

Ristorante (277 Via 

Aldo Moro, tel: 0789 

58010) Often unnoticed 

on the main restaurant 

drag, intimate 

Angedras’ menu offers 

oysters and succulent 

beef dishes. Leave 

some room for the 

homemade desserts. 

EXCLUSIVE Gallura 

(145 Corso Umberto, 

tel: 0789 24648) The 

only restaurant in the 

city to have won a 

coveted, well-deserved 

Michelin star. Famous 

for dishes such as onion 

soup and mutton broth, 

plus the fresh lobster 

and mussels get the 

nod of approval. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Bar Clipper 

(Via C Colombo) Golfo 

Aranci’s most popular 

beach is where this bar 

is based. Its décor is an 

eclectic collection of 

nautical memorabilia. 

LIVE MUSIC Il 

Garage (19 Via 

Barbagia, tel: 0789 

21033) The local “in” 

thing is rock sung in the 

local dialect, Sardo, but 

if that’s not enough to 

tempt you, there are 

also body and mural 

painting and graffi ti 

artists in residence. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Capricorno (2 Via 

Catello Piro, tel: 0789 

24700) The best way 

to stay warm on cold 

nights is to dance 

away to the best DJs 

dropping the spiciest 

Latin beats. Arrive late 

and get home later, 

this venue is open from 

11pm–6am. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Taste natural, 

local products ranging 

from wine to sweets 

and fresh fruit right in 

the town’s main square 

at Loi Ortofrutta (Via 

Vittorio Veneto). 


traditional medieval 

chant in Alghero’s 

cathedral. The moving 

sounds of the ancient 

Sibyl chant, whose 

origins are lost in 

time, is authentically 

reproduced only in 

Palma de Majorca and 

Alghero in the week 

before Christmas Eve. 

GO Cala Brandinchi, 

one of Olbia’s most 

famous beaches is 

characterised by very 

fi ne sand and beautiful 

blue sea. It’s a great 

time of year to go, 

avoiding the summer 

heat and crowds. Take 

the SS 125 towards 

Siniscola, then head 

towards Lu Impostu. 

ESCAPE The Castle 

of Serravalle, near the 

picturesque port town 

of Bosa is a stunning 

30-minute drive west 

of Olbia. The castle still 

has its original walls and 

towers, dating back to 

the 12th century. 

NO WAY! 

Did you know the 

fi rst man to become 

king of Italy was 

Victor Emmanuel II 

of Sardinia? He was 

crowned in 1861. 

Christine Kessler

THE GEOCHRON WORLD CLOCK. 

THE DIFFERENCE IS DAY AND NIGHT. 

Contemporary Model Original Kilburg Model Boardroom Model 

Executive Model 

The Geochron World Clock tells you, with one quick glance, the current time 

anywhere in the world. The Geochron World Clock also displays the extent 

of daylight and darkness throughout the world and actually moves as you 

watch. Ideal for reception areas...boardrooms...hotel lobbies...private 

homes...Impress your visitors! 

Experience it for yourself at www.geochron.co.uk 

or call +44 (0) 1923 777477


Palermo 

Italy 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI 


about 35 minutes 

and costs from €50. 

The Trinacria 

Express reaches 

Central station in 45 


BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Hello 

Pizza (49 Via Principe 

di Granatelli, tel: 091 

332 033) Nearby offi ce 

workers fl ock to this 

place at lunchtime, and 

with good reason – it 

serves the best sliced 

and stuffed pizza in town. 

UP TO €30 Porta 

Sant’Agata (8–10 

Piazza Porta Sant’Agata, 

tel: 091 652 6450) Near 

the Ballaro market, 

Porta Sant’Agata 

accommodates all 

palates, be it for an 

informal pizza or a 

romantic fi sh-dinner. 

UP TO €50 Al 

Cancelletto Verde (14 

Via Wagner, tel: 091 320 

537) This restaurant 

opened its doors more 

than 50 years ago and 

it has been serving 

delightful food such as 

swordfi sh with pistachios 

and oranges ever since. 

EXCLUSIVE Osteria 

dei Vespri (6 Piazza 

Croce dei Vespri, tel: 

091 617 1631) Vespri 

never fails to mix classic 

cuisine with innovative 

twists, and its dishes like 

orecchiette (ear shaped 

pasta) in ratatouille 

maintain its position as 

one of Palermo’s fi nest. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Coffee and 

Chocolate Belmonte 

(108 Via Principe Di 

Belmonte, tel: 091 329 

220) Twelve different 

types of coffee beans 

from around the world 

create fi ne brews served 

with pralines and other 

tasty delights at this café. 

LIVE MUSIC 

Birimbao (85 Via dei 

Leoni, tel: 091 670 

0550) This central 

venue is popular with 

students and has lively 

themed nights followed 

by excellent DJ sets. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Kursaal Kahlesa (21 

Foro Umberto, tel: 091 

616 2111) With its live 

jazz nights, wine bar, 

art exhibitions and 

bookshop, Kursaal 

Kahlesa is the place to 

see and be seen. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Pretty Piazza 

Marina comes alive at 

the weekends when the 

fl ea market takes place. 

All sorts of rarities and 

bric-a-brac are sold, and 

you can practise your 

haggling skills and try 

to work the price down 

before buying. 

SEE Painters, 

ceramicists, sculptors 

and photographers 

pay homage to the 

historic Acquasanta 

neighbourhood, once 

famous for its spring 

waters and where the 

wealthy had their seaside 

residences. Check out 

the works of L’Arte e 

l’Acquasanta exhibition 

on Piazza Acquasanta, 


GO Book a tour of the 

Qanats – amazing works 

of hydraulic engineering 

dating back to the Arab 

period. Canals and rivers 

run along the natural 

underground rock, which 

used to supply water to 

the city and three are 

still in existence today 

(CAI Palermo, tel: 

091 329 407). 

ESCAPE The Piano 

Battaglia mountains, 90 

minutes east of Palermo, 

is as close as you can 

get to a true alpine 

atmosphere without 

leaving the island. Enjoy 

the crisp mountain air 

by hiking or chestnut 

picking and stop at a 

chalet restaurant along 

the coastal areas. 

NO WAY! 

Palermo is home 

to two catacombs 

(underground burial 

tombs). As well as the 

renowned Capuchin 

cemetery, it has the 

lesser known, yet more 

extensive, corso Alberto 

Amedeo that dates 

back to the 4th century. 

Conchita Vecchio 

Paphos 

Cyprus 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 






centre of Paphos 

costs €20–€30 and 


BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 

Constantinides 

Bakery (Municipal Park, 

opposite CYTA, tel: 26 

813 550) Taste delicious 

Cypriot goodies such as 

handmade spinach pies 

and halloumi cheese. 

UP TO €30 Rustic 

Kitchen Bar and Grill 

(3 Ayias Anastasias 

Street, Kato Paphos) 

Pub grub is served up 

with aplomb in this cosy 

restaurant, which also 

doubles as a bar with 

UK sports coverage. 

UP TO €50 Keralam 

Restaurant (Aristo Coral 

Bay Complex, Coral 

Bay, tel: 26 622 877) 

Specialising in South 

Indian cuisine, Keralam 

has a tasty menu and 

a great wine list. 

EXCLUSIVE Psari 

Seafood Grill (Coral 

Bay, tel: 26 881 5000) 

Housed in the Thalassa 

Hotel, this upmarket 

restaurant is worth 

donning your best 

Christmas frock for. 

The setting, overlooking 

Coral Bay, is exquisite 

and the menu is too. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Testa 

Cossa (17 Neofytou 

Nikolaidi, Pitokopides 

Centre, tel: 26 910 

055) For good views, a 

sophisticated ambience 

and a local crowd, 

head to Testa Cossa and 

enjoy a cocktail. 

LIVE MUSIC Pikani 

Forest Taverna (Peyia 

to Polis Road, tel: 26 

622 322) Every Friday 

and Saturday night, 

the Pikani lays on fi ne 

Cypriot mezze platters 

and live music – arrive 

at 9.30pm and be 

prepared to dance. 




on 0044 (0) 207 613 8795 

LATE & LIVELY Loft 

Bar (1 Archimidous, 

Kato Paphos) Open 

from 11pm until late, 

boogie the night away 

to a variation of Greek 

and European hits. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP For that unique 

Christmas gift, Christou 

Kkeli is a wonderful shop 

which stocks reasonably 

priced, local jewellery, 

knick-knacks, paintings 

and decorations 

(29 Kissonerga). 

SEE The Cyprus 

Police Brass Band 

are a highlight of the 

Christmas calendar 

in Paphos, with their 

annual open-air 

performance. The band 

performs for free at Laiki 

Konia on 19 December. 

GO Paphos wineries are 

on the up with several 

winning top prizes at 

this year’s Cyprus Wine 

Awards. Visit Shoufas 

Winery in hill village, 

Kilinia, and try the 

Maratheftiko wine. 

ESCAPE Just 30 

minutes from Paphos 

is Polis, a pretty town 

surrounded by beautiful 

nature trails. Enjoy 

a wintry walk and then 

head to a restaurant at 

nearby Latchi harbour. 

NO WAY! 

The national cocktail, 

the Brandy Sour, was 

specially created for 

regular visitor to Cyprus, 

King Farouk of Egypt in 

the 1930s. It was made 

to look like iced tea to 

disguise the Muslim 

monarch’s penchant for 

alcoholic cocktails! 

Lucie Robson/lintv.eu 

00000 EasyJet Sales 4.5mil Banne1 1 11/11/09 17:01:54 

TAXI 

ST NICHOLAS 

RESIDENCE 

★ ★ ★ ★ ★ 

Apartment complex 

with an expansive 

swimming pool, 

beautifully styled 

rooms complete with 

the latest mod cons 

and a superb spa, St 

Nicholas Residence is 

ideal for a recuperating 

break. From €29, book 

at hotels.easyJet.com.

We have a full range of British 

Products available in store 

. . . . 

. . . . 

NOW AT: Chafiras (Tenerife) Los Cristianos (Tenerife) Javea Benissa 

San Fulgencio Torrevieja Mijas San Javier 

www.overseas.es Tel: 0034 922 735160 

brought to you by...


Paris 

France 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 

ORLY 





Holiday Taxis 

(easyJet. 

holiday taxis.com) 

take you from home 

to the airport, then city 


TAXI 

The 30-minute 

journey to central 

Paris should cost 

about €35. 

The Orly bus 

stops at Place 

Denfert-Rochereau 


5.45am–11.30pm. 


The RER B4 

(OrlyVal) travels 

from Orly to Châtelet 

in 30 minutes. 

Trains run every 

eight minutes from 

6am–11pm. Tickets: 

€9.85. The journey on 

line C2 between Orly 

and Invalides takes 

40 minutes, from 

6am–11pm. 


ROISSY-CHARLES 

DE GAULLE 





Holiday Taxis 

(easyJet. 

holiday taxis.com) 

take you from home 

to the airport, then city 


TAXI 

The fare to 

central Paris 

should cost €45. 

The Roissy bus 

stops at the 

Opéra every 15 minutes 

from 5.45am–11pm. 


Take the RER B3 

on a 30-minute 

journey to Gare du 

Nord. Trains leave 


5.24am–11.58pm. 


BON APPETIT 


Baron Bouge (1 Rue 

Théophile Roussel, 

tel: 01 4343 1432) 

Join the stallholders 

from the Marché 

d’Aligre at this lively 

neighbourhood wine 

bar serving charcuterie, 

cheeses and oysters 

to accompany 

excellent wines 

from independent, 

national growers. 


Closerie des Lilas 

(171 Boulevard du 

Montparnasse, 

tel: 01 4051 3450) 

Come to the historic 

Montparnasse to 

enjoy light bar snacks 

over an aperitif at 

the piano bar where 

plaques mark the 

favourite seats of 

Hemingway, Beckett 

and other famous 

patrons over the last 

century. Or have 

a light meal of fresh 

oysters or hearty 

20% discount 

for all passengers. 

Please quote 

EJPARIS 

salads in the low-lit 

brasserie next to the 

bar, plus there’s also 

a formal dining room 

with a great French 

menu. Open during 

the holidays. 

EXCLUSIVE Train 

Bleu (Gare de 

Lyon, tel: 01 4343 

0906) A beautiful 

second-Empire-style 

restaurant, built as 

part of the Gare de 

Lyon for the 1900 

Universal Exhibition. 

It has a luxurious, 

gilded interior 

featuring 42 beautiful 

frescoes of the 

destinations served 

by the railway at 

the turn of the 20th 

century. Try the 

special multi-course 

Christmas menu, 

which includes game 

and a mountain of 

exquisite cheeses 

and desserts. 

Le Grand Véfour 

(17 Rue de Beaujolais, 

tel: 01 4296 5627) This 

historic, 18th-century 

restaurant overlooking 

the gardens of the 

Palais Royal serves 

classic French haute 

cuisine in a romantic 

setting. Today it is 

owned by the 

Taittinger Champagne 

group, but you can 

also fi nd excellent 

vintages like Margaux 

on the wine list. 

Be sure to reserve 

as far in advance 

as possible. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Le 

Caveau Montpensier 

(15 Rue Montpensier, 

tel: 01 4703 3378) 

Take the trip down a 

few steps to enter 

one of the oldest 

bars in Paris and 

enjoy a drawn-out 

drink. It has a long 

history as an Irish 

bar, but the latest 

owner has completely 

restored the stone 

walls and wooden 

beams, adding a 

sleek metal and glass 

cocktail bar for a more 

contemporary look 

with a cosy feel. 

LIVE MUSIC Glazart 

(7–15 Avenue de la 

Porte de la Villette, tel: 

01 4036 5565) Out on 

the (cutting) edge of 

Paris, just past the 

Parc de la Villette, 

this music and arts 

venue has an eclectic 

programme of 

clubbing, rock, funk 

and folk concerts, 

art exhibitions and 

arthouse cinema 

screenings. A laidback 

crowd fl ock down 

UP TO 

€30 

Georges (19 Rue 

Beaubourg, tel: 01 

4478 4799) Perched 

on the top fl oor of 

the contemporary 

Centre Pompidou, 

this modern 

restaurant has 

a simplistic feel 

but with a huge 

installation in the 

centre. Book ahead. 

here for a break 

away from the 

traditional clubs of the 

Champs-Elysées. 

LATE & LIVELY M 

(128 Rue de la Boétie, 

tel: 01 5376 0211) Just 

off the Champs-Elysées, 

this sexy underground 

dance club formerly 

known as Madam was 

completely revamped 

this year with a sexy new 

look. Expect a crowd 

of young and trendy 

twentysomethings, 

but there’s a more 

accessible vibe for afterwork 

soirées on Thursday 

from 7pm–1am. 

Nouveau Casino 

(109 Rue Oberkampf, 

tel: 01 4357 5740) 

Tucked behind the Café 

Charbon, this futuristic 

club hosts live rock 

concerts, turning into 

more of a DJ club with 

electronic music from 

about midnight. Its low 

entry fees keep it one 

of the most popular 

venues in this laidback 

east Paris district. 

Dress code is casual 

rather than glitzy. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Every 

December, several 

Christmas villages are 

set up around the city, 

including St Germain 

des Prés, St Sulpice 

and Trocadero, with 

little wooden chalets 

selling gifts, handicrafts, 

regional delicacies, hot 

wine and crêpes in 

a very festive setting. 

SEE The 21st annual 

Africolor Music 

Festival is on until 20 

December, bringing 

the latest sounds from 

the African continent 

to the Parisian 

suburbs, including 

contemporary, jazz, 

baroque, hip hop and 

classical music. Warm 

up a cold day with 

some African tunes and 

dancing (africolor.com). 

GO One of the few 

charming residential 

market streets in 

a district famous for 

towering monuments 

and vast grassy 

esplanades, is 

Rue Cler in the 7th 

arrondissement. 

The main street has 

gourmet food shops 

and stands, wine shops, 

cafés and budget 

hotels. It’s walking 

distance to the Eiffel 

Tower, Invalides, Musée 

Rodin and the new Quai 

Branly Museum. 

ESCAPE Amiens is 

two hours hour north 

of Paris in the Picardy 

region. It’s home to 

Jules Verne’s house, a 

patchwork of gardens 

within a lake known as 

Les Hortillonnages, and 

the largest cathedral 

in France, Notre Dame 

D’Amiens, built in the 

13th century to house 

the head of St John the 

Baptist which is still 

on display today (visitamiens.com). 

NO WAY! 

Le Bourget was the 

main airport of Paris 

until Orly opened in 

1948. The old airport 

is famous as the 

landing place for 

Lindbergh’s historic, 

fi rst solo fl ight across 

the Atlantic in 1927. 

Heather Stimmler-Hall 

HOTEL DE LA PORTE DORÉE 

Walking into Hotel de la Porte Doree you will sense this is not your 

ordinary two star hotel. Our French and American team 

are here to make your stay a memorable one. 

273 Avenue Daumesnil, 75012 Paris • T: +33 (0)1 43 07 56 97 

E: hotel-porte-doree@wanadoo.fr • www.hoteldelaportedoree.com

BEST 

VALUE IN 

PARIS... 

The Hotel Taylor will delight 

both you and your wallet... 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

SPECIAL 

OFFER 

Present this advert and 

you will recieve a gift at 

the reception of Hotel 

Taylor. Valid until 

27th December 

2009. 

IN A PEACEFUL secluded position on a quiet 

one-way street just outside the bustling 

centre of Paris and within walking distance 

of Notre Dame, the family-run boutique 

Hotel Taylor is the perfect base from which 

to enjoy a romantic break in the City of 

Light. Just a short walk from the lively 

Marais district and close to major 

department stores, the Place des Vosges, 

Bastille and Canal Saint Martin, the hotel’s 

location is unbeatable. 

And with a charming and cosy ambience 

 

 

 

 

PROMOTION 

as well as 37 newly refurbished, soundproofed 

guestrooms and modern, romantic 

interiors, you’ll be tempted to stay in, as well 

as to go out. Hotel amenities include free 

WiFi and fl at screen TV in every bedroom 

and a sumptuous buffet breakfast. And the 

hotel’s attentive and experienced staff are 

always on hand to help with restaurant 

suggestions, taxi bookings and more. 

Last but not least, Hotel Taylor is 

outstanding value for money – with single 

rooms from just €80 and doubles from €91, 

it is the hotel of choice for savvy travellers. 

Hôtel Taylor, 6 rue Taylor, 75010 Paris 

Tel: 33(0)1 42 40 11 01 

Email: contact@paristaylorhotel.com 

www.paristaylorhotel.com


Pisa 

Italy 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI The fare to the city 


Compagnia 

Pisana Trasporti 

(CPT) buses go to 

the centre every 20 

minutes. Route 3 stops 

at Pisa Central, Piazza 

Vittorio Emanuele, 

Riverside and Santa 

Chiara Hospital. Tickets: 

€0.77 (at the airport). 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Osteria 

La Mescita (2 Piazza 

delle Vettovaglie, tel: 

050 544 294) An eatery 

with a belle époque 

charm at the old fruit 

and vegetable market. 

The menu is light and 

imaginative, smacking 

of nouvelle cuisine. 

UP TO €30 

Ristorante Cinese 

Il Giardino (Piazza 

Vittorio Emanuele, 

tel: 050 28178) If 

you’re hankering for 

something different 

after too much pasta 

and pizza, this restaurant 

offers good Chinese fare, 

as well as hot and spicy 

Schezwan dishes. 

UP TO €50 Leopolda 

(11 Piazza Guerrazzi, tel: 

050 48587) A trattoria 

near the train station 

that offers an effortlessly 

relaxed atmosphere and 

great meat dishes. 

EXCLUSIVE 

Cagliostro (26 Via del 

Castelletto, tel: 050 

575 413) Housed in 

a refurbished convent, 

this is a unique trattoria: 

colourful, airy and with 

walls showcasing the 

work of contemporary 

artists. The menu is 

creative with vegetable 

and meat dishes. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Caffetteria 

della Vettovaglie (33 

Piazza della Vettovaglie) 

A café in the old 

marketplace where you 

can relax after dinner 

with a cocktail or glass of 

wine and listen to jazz. 

LIVE MUSIC 

Leningrad Café (5 Via 

Silvestri) Enjoy drinks, 

food and DJ sets playing 

jazz, soul, reggae and 

electro. On Sundays 

there’s a packed line 

up of theatre, cabaret 

and live music. 

LATE & LIVELY Irish 

Pub (56 Via Antonio 

Ceci, tel: 050 23062) 

One of Pisa’s best 

and liveliest late night 

venues, the bar staff are 

friendly and the beer is 

more than palatable. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Via Santa Maria 

is one of Pisa’s oldest 

streets, full of shops 

selling the best of Italian 

crafts: beautiful objects 

in alabaster, olive wood, 

plus Venetian masks, 

Florentine artistic paper, 

hand-bound writing 

books, and much more. 

SEE From 15 December 

the Centro Arte 

Moderna is exhibiting 

the work of artist Alberto 

Berti, inspired by real-life 

and imaginary travels. 

He was attracted by 

the natural beauty of 

Tuscany and moved 

to Pisa in the 1960s. 

This exhibition 

celebrates his life (26 

Lungarno Mediceo). 

GO With the festive 

season upon us, Borgo 

Stretto is the area to 

discover. Cheerful 

vendors and illuminated 

Christmas lights give 

the main street a real 

buzz – but don’t miss 

the charming little shops 

along the backstreets, 

especially the delicious 

pastry shop Salza. 

ESCAPE Livorno is 

a bustling port city 

just a 20-minute train 

ride from Pisa. For 

a romantic Christmasseason 

getaway, visit its 

New Venice district with 

fantastic bridges and a 

network of canals. Don’t 

leave without dropping 

into the antique and 

bric-a-brac shops. 

TAXI TAXI 

NO WAY! 

Did you know that bread 

in Florence is unsalted? 

The reason: Pisa, one of 

Florence’s oldest rivals, 

controlled the port in the 

12th century and placed 

high taxes on salt. 

Silvia Falsaperla 

Porto 

Portugal 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI The 20-minute trip 


Metro trains 

depart every 20 

minutes for the centre. 

The journey takes 30 

minutes. Tickets: €1.40 

single for a Z-4 ticket, 

covering four zones. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Pimenta 

Rosa (285 Rua Miguel 

Bombarda) Right in 

the centre of town, this 

new restaurant serves 

lunches with meat, fi sh 

and vegetarian options. 

UP TO €30 Chic 

Dream (64 Campo 

Mártires da Pátria, tel: 22 

201 0391) This eatery is 

always a reliable choice 

for some excellent grub. 

The menu features 

Portuguese dishes with 

an African twist. 

UP TO €50 Gosho 

(1277 Avenida da 

Boavista, tel: 22 608 

6708) The newest 

Japanese restaurant in 

Porto boasts a relaxed 

atmosphere. Choose 

from noodles, sushi 

and fi sh dishes. 

EXCLUSIVE Kool 

Restaurante (604–610 

Avenida da Boavista, tel: 

22 609 2876) Set within 

the Casa de Música, 

this cosmopolitan 

establishment offers 

eclectic creations from 

chef Augusto Gemelli, 

with a strong Italian 

infl uence. Book ahead. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Majestic 

Café (112 Rua de Santa 

Catarina, tel: 22 200 

3887) A landmark 

of the city, order the 

heavenly chocolate cake, 

and afterwards, pop 

downstairs to the art 

gallery in the basement. 

LIVE MUSIC Passos 

Manuel (137 Rua 

Passos Manuel, tel: 22 

205 8351) A renovated 

cinema that hosts live 

AXIS 

PORTO 

★ ★ ★ ★ ★ 

Wooden panels 

line the corridors 

with photos of the 

city and its old 

houses, and the 

fantastic restaurant 

offers Italian and 

Portuguese cuisine. 







‰ 

music at the weekend, 

head down to see 

Porto’s freshest talent. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Discoteca Via Rápida 

(567 Rua Manuel Pinto 

Azevedo, tel: 22 610 

9427) Friday nights are 

the real attraction at this 

lively club – although 

they can be outrageous. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Porto Signs is 

a great souvenir shop 

with a wide range of 

T-shirts, mugs, Port 

wine and local ceramics 

(17 Rua da Alfândega). 

SEE For a traditional 

Christmas experience, 

visit the Lapa church’s 

services. The church 

has a beautiful 

baroque structure 

with a grand organ 

(Lago da Lapa, near 

Praça da República). 

GO The area around 

the Crystal Palace 

park offers some of 

the most glorious 

views of the river. 

ESCAPE Viana do 

Castelo is a medieval 

city, famous for its 

fi ligree jewellery and 

beautiful architecture. 

The city is home to a 

15th-century cathedral 

and Old Town square. It’s 

an hour from Porto. 

NO WAY! 

Over 20,000 tiles in the 

São Bento station tell 

stories from signifi cant 

moments in Portuguese 

history. One of the 

largest is the remarkable 

panel showing the arrival 

of King João I and Queen 

Philippa of Lancaster 

into Porto, in 1387. 

Joseph Guerra 


ent a luxury villa in tuscany 

Borgo della Pia 

Sleeps up to 18 

Exclusive golf course 

Ideal for receptions 

20 minutes from the sea 

for bookings call +44 (0)20 74360426 

or e-mail info@dolcevitavillas.com 

w w w . d o l c e v i t a v i l l a s . c o m


Prague 

Czech Republic 


CURRENCY CZK 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI 

Fares to the city 

centre cost CZK90. 

Catch bus 119 to 

Dejvicka (where 

it terminates), then 

take metro line A to the 

centre. Tickets: CZK26. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 

Lahudky Zlaty Kriz 

(19 Jungmannovo, tel: 

221 191 801) You don’t 

get more authentic than 

this restaurant’s Czech 

chlebicky – rustic bread 

topped with cheese or 

ham and eaten on the 

go for just a few euros. 

UP TO €30 Rana (12 

Na Didince) Generous 

portions of Pakistani 

curries will keep any 

tired visitor on their feet 

for another couple of 

hours. Try the popular 

murgh madras chicken. 

UP TO €50 U Vladare 

(10 Maltezske namesti, 

tel: 257 534 121) This 

old-school restaurant 

has a prime position 

near the castle, and its 

specialities of game, 

snails, and frog’s legs 

provide an unusual, 

though totally delicious 

break from the norm. 

EXCLUSIVE Buddha 

Bar (8 Jakubska, tel: 

221 776 300) Part of an 

exclusive chain across 

Europe and situated 

within a hotel, this 

dark, stylish restaurantbar 

serves Asianinfl 

uenced food in a 

chic atmosphere as a 

giant Buddha statue 

presides over the party. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Grand 

Café (22 Staromestske 


522) The treats at the 

luxurious Grand Café 

don’t come cheap, 

but the sumptuous 

confections, such as the 

Viennese-style Sacher 

chocolate sponge cake, 

are more than worth it. 

LIVE MUSIC Lucerna 

(36 Vodickova, tel: 224 


may not be the trendiest 

place in Prague, but for 

a reliable night of rock 

and indie music it’s 

defi nitely worth a look. 

Check out Scottish rock 

sensation Biffy Clyro on 

2 December. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Radost FX (120 

Belehradska, tel: 

224 254 776) If your 

aversion to house 

music has kept you 

out of Europe’s clubs, 

check out these hip-hop 

focused Saturday nights. 

With lasers, DJs, dancers 

and a posh clientèle, 

this club has it all. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Prague’s 


are open throughout 

December selling folk 

crafts, Czech snacks 

and generally bringing 

holiday cheer to a 

typically gloomy winter. 

Find various stalls 

located in the Old Town. 

SEE New Year’s Eve is 

undoubtedly the biggest 

event of the year here, 

and it continues to draw 

big crowds to its free 

party in the Old Town 

Square, complete with 

performances and 

midnight fi reworks. 

GO Between the 

many museums and 

browsing the Christmas 

markets, the central 

Praha 1 district defi nes 

wintertime Prague 

– just don’t drink too 

much mulled wine 

before stopping at 

the outdoor ice rink 

at Ovocny Trh! 

ESCAPE Hop on 

a train and head to 

Kutna Hora, a town in 

the centre of Bohemia 

just one hour from 

Prague. It’s home to the 

UNESCO World Heritage 

Old Town, the gothic 

Church of St Barbara 

and the impressive 

Cathedral of Our Lady. 

NO WAY! 

The Czech Republic 

has the highest 

number of castles 

per square kilometre 

in the world, with 

approximately 2,000 

magnifi cent structures 

scattered across 

the country. 

Dana Dramowicz/ 

prague-life.com 

Rome 

Italy 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 

ROME CIAMPINO 





Holiday Taxis 


taxis.com) take you 

from home to the 

airport, then city or 

destination. 

TAXI 

The fare for 

the 40-minute 

journey to the centre is 

at a set rate of €30. 

Terravision, 

easyJet’s 

transport partner, 

operates an airport 

bus that leaves 30 

minutes after your 

fl ight lands. Tickets: 

€4 single; €8 return. 

BusShuttle runs 

an airport bus 

to Termini railway 

station every 45–60 

minutes with a journey 

time of 45 minutes. 


ROME FIUMICINO 





Holiday Taxis 



from home to the airport, 


TAXI 

There is a taxi 

rank outside the 

airport entrance. It 

should cost €40 to 

the centre in a City 

of Rome licensed 

cab and €60 in a 

Fiumicino municipality 

licensed cab. 

Terravision, 

easyJet’s 

transport partner, 

operates a service to 

Termini, departing 

30 minutes after 

your fl ight lands 

(irrespective of delays). 

It takes about 70 

minutes. Tickets: €7 


Check return times at 

the ticket booth. 

BusShuttle 

runs an hourly 

airport bus direct to the 

Termini railway station 

and Piazza Cavour 

(Vatican City) with 

a journey time of 90 


The Leonardo 

Express leaves 

LATE & 

LIVELY 

I Giganti 

della Notte 

(26 Campo de’ 

Fiori, tel: 06 687 

4182) A new and 

lively bar in buzzing 

Campo de’ Fiori, 

playing mainly 

modern rock music 

to the fi ttingly 

trendy crowd of 

twentysomethings. 

for Termini station 


6.36am–11.36pm. 


Metropolitan FM1 

trains to Tiburtina 

run from 5.57am, 

every 15 minutes 

from 6.27am–7.57pm, 

then every 30 minutes 

until 11.27pm. 


BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Enoteca 

Corsi (87–88 Via 

del Gesú, tel: 06 679 

0821) At lunchtimes, 

this popular family 

wine bar becomes a 

restaurant serving 

typical Roman cuisine, 

from tripe and gnocchi 

to salami and cheese 

– all delicious. 

UP TO €30 

Da Vincenzo 

(6 Via Castelfi dardo, 

tel: 06 484 596) 

This unpretentious 

restaurant serves 

a wide range of fi sh 

main courses and 

wonderful antipasti. For 

your fi rst course, try 

the penne or linguine 

all’astice (pasta in 

lobster sauce) and 

wash it down with one 

of Vincenzo’s excellent 

Sardinian or Sicilian 

white wines. 

UP TO €50 Renata 

e Luisa Quelli della 

Taverna (25 Via dei 

Barbieri, tel: 06 686 

9660) Don’t let the 

rustic and informal 

atmosphere fool 

you, the cooking is 

wonderful with fi rst 

courses including a 

range of pastas from 

the traditional cacio 

cheese and black

pepper to spaghetti 

with anchovies. They 

also do a great 

tiramisu for dessert. 

Le Tamerici (79 Vicolo 

Scavolino, tel: 06 6920 

0700) This minimalist 

and modern restaurant 

near the Trevi Fountain 

stands out for its 

range of breads and 

homemade olive oil. Try 

the pelt pasta and the 

rich, milky mozzarella 

– such as burrata from 

Apulia or tender buffalo 

meat – you won’t fi nd 

it elsewhere in Rome. 

For dessert, go for 

the apple strudel with 

cinnamon whipped 

cream. Delicious! 

EXCLUSIVE Vivendo 

del St Regis Grand 

(3 Via Vittorio 

Emmanuele Orlando, 

tel: 06 4709 2736) An 

elegant restaurant on 

the ground fl oor of 

a famous hotel. Maître 

d’ Luciano Cerri and his 

staff courteously and 

effi ciently serve dishes 

including rice with lamb 

sauce and black truffl e. 

For dessert you could 

go for the inventive 

tomato gazpacho with 

orange and mint and 

pearls of fresh fruit. 

Agata e Romeo (45 

Via Carlo Alberto, tel: 

06 446 6115) Run by 

Agatta Parisella and 

Romeo Caracci, this 

excellent trattoria is 

famous for its creative 

seasonal cuisine. It 

also boasts a huge 

cellar with hundreds 

of high quality wines 

from all corners of 

the globe. Order 

the amazing veal 

tenderloin with bacon 

and rosemary, and you 

won’t be disappointed. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Buccone 

(19–20 Via di Ripetta, 

tel: 06 361 2154) 

An historic enotecca 

(wine bar) close to 

popular Piazza del 

Popolo with a mind 

boggling selection of 

wines. It’s a wonderful 

place to stop and 

either buy or drink 

a bottle of Italian wine. 

LIVE MUSIC Circolo 

Degli Artisti (42 Via 

Casilina Vecchia, tel: 06 

7030 5684) A huge 

venue for live music 

and dancing outside 

the city centre. As well 

as an enormous and 

usually packed dance 

fl oor there is a bar and 

a pizzeria, so order a 

pizza as you listen to 

a selection of hip hop, 

Italian pop and punk. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Classico Village 

(3 Via Guisseppe 

Libetta, tel: 06 572 

8857) This buzzing 

club boasts a large 

performance area 

and stage, two bars, 

dance fl oors, and 

accomplished DJs 

who play a wide 

range of music till late. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Leone 

Limentani began selling 

homeware in 1820 and 

today boasts one of 

the biggest selections 

of porcelain, silver and 

glassware in the city 

– this is a great place 

to buy wedding 

presents (47–48 Via del 

Portico d’Ottavia). 

SEE Twenty of 

Caravaggio’s 

masterpieces are on 

show at the Galleria 

Borghese, along with 

10 pieces of work by 

Francis Bacon in a 

delightful exhibition 

that will keep you 

entertained for hours 

(685 Via Prenestina, 

galleriaborghese.it). 

GO In 1555, Pope 

Paul V confi ned the 

city’s ancient Jewish 

community to an area 

near Largo Argentina, 

walling the people in 

and locking them in 

at night. Although the 

walls are long gone, 

there is still a big 

Jewish presence in the 

area, which is packed 

with kosher pizza 

takeaways, bakeries, 

restaurants, and cafés. 

ESCAPE Villa d’Este, 

Tivoli is situated up 

on the hills and is 

a beautiful day trip, 40 

minutes from Rome. 

Expect UNESCO World 

Heritage gardens 

bathed in winter 

sunlight and fountains 

– the most spectacular 

one was designed 

by famous architect, 

Bernini. Take a bus from 

the Ponte Mammolo 

metro station on Line B. 

NO WAY! 

Santa Cecilia, the 

patron saint of music, 

is buried in the church 

of the same name 

in Trastevere. She 

is reported to have 

survived for several 

days after a botched 

beheading and spent 

the whole time singing! 

Alan Goldwater 

Salzburg 

Austria 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 



from home to airport, 


TAXI 

A trip to the city 


Trains run to 

the Salzburg 

Hauptbahnhof station 


taking 25 minutes. 

Tickets: €9 single. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Il Sole 

(15 Gstättengasse, tel: 

0662 843 284) Light 

Mediterranean dishes 

are served in this 

friendly restaurant. 

A great choice is 

the calamari with 

onion bread. 

UP TO €30 Maestro 

(11 Franz Josefkai, 

tel: 0664 203 9889) 

Within this minimalist 

interior, local and Italian 

specialities are fi nely 

produced. One of the 

stars of the menu is 

the salmon steak. 

UP TO €50 Gmachl 

(35 Dorfstrasse, 

tel: 0662 452 124) 


Experience a genuine 

Austrian atmosphere 

in the Gmachl Hotel 

– even the waiting 

staff are in traditional 

costumes. The menu 

includes regional dishes 

such as the succulent 

veal parmigiana. 

EXCLUSIVE Ikarus 

(7A Wilhelm Spazier 

Strasse, tel: 0662 

219 777) In funky 

Hangar 7 (a cultural 

space in an old aircraft 

hanger) this restaurant 

invites top-fl ight chefs 

to run the kitchen for 

a month at a time, 

providing a forum for 

experimental cuisine. 

AFTER DARK 

LIVE MUSIC Jazzit 

(11 Elisabethstrasse, 

tel: 0662 883 264) This 

is the city’s legendary 

music café, which 

organises fantastic jazz 

and improvised jam 

sessions, attracting 

a groovy crowd. 

LOW 

KEY 

220° 

(5 Chiemseegasse, 

tel: 0662 827 881) 

A fantastic café with 

a sparse yet stylish 

interior where the 

wonderful aroma of 

freshly roasted coffee 

fi lls the air. It may 

not be 220° hot, 

but this café is the 

hottest thing in town. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Watzup (17A Giselakai) 

Choose from more than 

200 delicious cocktails 

and enjoy the easygoing 

atmosphere at this 

legendary cocktail bar. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP If you are 

looking for some 

decorations for your 

Christmas tree, you’re 

guaranteed to fi nd what 

you’re looking for at the 

‘Christmas in Salzburg’ 

shop (10 Judengasse). 

SEE An impressive 

collection of landscape 

paintings from the 

Czernin collection 

is on show at the 

Residenzgalerie. The 

Full Splendour includes 

works by Rembrandt, 

and Jakob Isaacksz 

(1 Residenzplatz). 

GO Head to the Old 

Town Christmas market 

before 26 December, 

in the shadow of the 

impressive Mirabell 

Castle, to taste delicious 

almond biscuits and 

listen to festive music. 

ESCAPE Schladming 

is a medieval village with 

an excellent ski resort. 

Catch the one-hour train 

from Salzburg through 

picturesque countryside 

and you can enjoy long 

ski runs, lunch in the 

town’s restaurants, or 

browse quaint shops. 

NO WAY! 

The salt trade is a big 

part of Salzburg’s history 

– the world’s oldest salt 

mines can be found 

just outside the city. 

The city’s name literally 

means ‘salt castle’. 

Uros Urosevic


Sharm El 

Sheikh Egypt 


CURRENCY EGP 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI 


city costs EGP120. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €30 Sharm 

Grill House (Horus 

Mall, Hadaba, tel: 010 

001 6143) Located 

opposite the Il Mercato 

shopping centre, stop at 

this recently opened 

restaurant, which offers 

traditional Egyptian 

cuisine including kebabs. 

UP TO €50 Kona Kai 

(Marriott Hotel, Na’ama 

Bay, tel: 069 360 0190) 

Using the freshest local 

fi sh, the all-you-caneat 

sushi menus are 

extremely popular here. 

Alternatively, book a 

teppanyaki table and 

watch as your food is 

prepared in front of you. 

EXCLUSIVE La Luna 

(Ritz Carlton Hotel, tel: 

069 366 1919) This 

stylish restaurant serves 

Italian cuisine including 

superb antipasti and 

homemade pasta, with 

panoramic views of the 

Red Sea. For something 

a bit different try the 

coffee-fl avoured pasta. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Queen Vic 

(Soho Square, tel: 010 

160 9544) Slouch into 

this bar’s big couches, 

watch the fl ickering 

fi re and order from the 

bar spanning the entire 

length of the pub. 

LIVE MUSIC Camel 

Bar (Camel Hotel, 

Na’ama Bay, tel: 069 

360 0700) A drink at 

Camel Bar is a great way 

to wind down at the end 

of the week. Thursday 

nights see live music 

– acts typically range 

from classic rock to soul. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Pulse (Grand Rotana 

Resort and Spa, Shark’s 

Bay, tel: 069 360 2700) 

Party-goers will enjoy 

excellent resident DJs, 

lavish visual effects 

UP TO 

€15 

Vanilla (Camel Hotel, 

Na’ama Bay, tel: 069 

360 0700) A great 

little café serving 

delicious homemade 

Italian-style ice 

cream, cakes, 

pastries, freshly 

squeezed juices and 

gourmet coffee. If it’s 

warm enough, sit out 

on the terrace. 

and effortless style at 

energetic Pulse. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP For a special 

gift, check out The 

Viva Art Gallery which 

sells original paintings, 

photography, canvas 

prints and sculptures 

(Viva Mall, Peace Road). 

SEE Enjoy the stunning 

corals and brightly 

coloured fi sh from the 

air-conditioned comfort 

of a semi-submersible 

United Submarines 

boat. The view from 

the windows provides 

a great opportunity 

to photograph the 

underwater world 

(El Khazan Street, 

Umm El Sid Hill). 

GO Make the most of 

the clear-night skies and 

head 40 minutes out 

into the desert for an 

evening of star-gazing. 

Spot all the major 

constellations with help 

from an experienced 

Bedouin guide. 

ESCAPE For a unique 

holiday adventure, 

explore the stunning 

Sinai Desert (one hour 

away) from the back of 

an Arabian horse. The 

Omar Riding Club tailor 

trips to suit beginners 

to advanced riders and 

all excursions include an 

experienced guide. 

NO WAY! 

Despite being located 

just a few kilometres 

away from Sharm el 

Sheikh’s coastline, the 

popular dive spot of 

Tiran Island actually 

offi cially belongs to 

Saudi Arabia. 

Penny Orford 

Sofia 

Bulgaria 


CURRENCY Leu (BGN) 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





The 30-minute 

journey to the city 

costs about BGN14. 

Catch bus 84 

from Terminal 1 

or bus 284 from 

Terminal 2. They leave 

every 10–15 minutes 

and take about 30 

minutes to get to the city 

centre. Tickets: BGN1. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Mimas 

(68 Vasil Levski 

Bulevard) Pop down 

to this reliable eatery 

where kebabs, burgers 

and falafel are the main 

features of the menu. 

It’s open 24/7 for latenight 

diners. 

UP TO €30 Trikrakoto 

Pile (3 Denkoglu Ulitsa, 

tel: 986 2653) Situated 

on a peaceful street, this 

relaxing and informal 

venue still manages 

to pull in the crowds. 

Expect well-produced 

national cuisine. 

UP TO €50 Istanbul 

(Kempinski Hotel 

Zografski, 100 James 

Bourchier Bulevard, 

tel: 969 2222) Get 

a real taste of the 

Middle East at this 

Turkish and Lebanese 

restaurant. Situated in 

a peaceful hotel, the 

interior is exotic and 

so are the excellent 

dancers and food. 

EXCLUSIVE Clock 

House (15 Moskovska 

Ulitsa, tel: 932 7595) In 

a beautifully restored 

house dating back to the 

19th century, enjoy fi ne 

European and Bulgarian 

cuisine in an enchanting 

dining room looking out 

over the gardens. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Villa 

Rosiche (26 Neofi t 

Rilski Ulitsa, tel: 954 

3072) With a winning 

combination of great 

cakes, strong coffee and 

homely pots of tea, this 

inviting café-bakery is 

well worth a visit. 

LIVE MUSIC 

Hambara (22 Shesti 

Sevtemvri Ulitsa) For 

those who like a spot of 

culture with their drink, 

Hambara’s excellent 

programme of live jazz 

provides an added 

incentive to drop by 

and have a beer in this 

candlelit barn. 

LATE & LIVELY Bar 

at the End of the 

Universe (Bulevard 

34B, Studentski grad, 

tel: 962 5541) Start or 

fi nish your lively night 

with a drink in this 

bar, aptly named as it 

lies on the northern 

fringes of Sofi a’s 

PLANNING TO DIVE IN THE RED SEA? 

Avoid Rogue Operators 

Dive only with legal diving operators on your next trip 

to Egypt’s Red Sea. All CDWS member dive operators 

have met ISO standards EN 14467 / ISO 24803 for 

diving to ensure your diving safety. For a full list of legal 

diving operators in Egypt visit: www.cdws.travel 

TAXI 

far out Studenski 

grad neighbourhood 

– prepare to party 

long into the night. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Tucked away in 

a discreet basement, 

the Dyukyan Meloman 

emporium boasts a 

great collection of world 

music. The staff have 

an amazing knowledge 

of their specialist 

fi eld and can fi nd you 

any CD you need (7A 

Shesti Sevtemvri Ulitsa, 

meloman-bg.com). 

SEE The ultimate 

fl amenco Señora, Isabel 

Bayón, visits Sofi a on 

10 December with her 

Tan Solo Flamenco 

show. She performs 

at the impressive 

National Palace of 

Culture (ndk.bg). 

GO Visit the Sofi a 

University campus, 

home to some of the 

city’s oldest buildings. 

Chill out in the Doctor’s 

Garden with the 

arty, student crowd 

and get lost in an 

intellectual debate. 

ESCAPE The eco path 

between the quaint 

villages of Zheleznitsa 

and Bistrica is a 

wonderful place to 

take a long walk and 

get some fresh, out-ofthe-city 

air. Bus 98 

goes from Hladilnika 

to both villages. The 

journey is 30 minutes 

from Sofi a. 

NO WAY! 

The world’s fi rst 

digital wristwatch was 

developed by Bulgarian 

Peter Petroff. 

Maya Kozareva 

www.cdws.travel

Stockholm 

Sweden 


CURRENCY Krona (SEK) 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI The journey to 

the centre of town 

costs around SEK450. 

Flygbussarna 

airport coaches 

depart for the city 


Tickets: SEK199 return. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 La Neta 

(2 Barnhusgatan, tel: 08 

411 5880) Mexican food 

is scarce in Sweden, 

so taco lovers cheered 

when this colourful 

taqueria opened its 

doors a few months ago. 

UP TO €30 

Indian Garden 

(15 Heleneborgsgatan, 

tel: 08 849 498) This 

venue is the proud 

recipient of many 

awards, most recently 

the prestigious 

Gulddraken for the city’s 

best budget restaurant. 

UP TO €50 Den 

Gyldene Freden (51 

Österlånggatan, tel: 08 

249 760) Serving food 

since 1722, not much 

has changed since 

then at this charming 

restaurant. Indulge in 

dishes including spicy 

deer sausage served 

with lentils. 

EXCLUSIVE F12 

(12 Fredsgatan, tel: 

08 248 052) In lime 

green, uncluttered 

surroundings, rock 

stars, fashionistas and 

royalty feast. Head 

chef Danyel Clouet’s 

11-course, tasting 

extravaganza will fi ll you 

with holiday spirit. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY 

Hjärtats Bar 

(22B Bellmansgatan, 

tel: 08 640 1462) Enjoy 

a warm drink in this 

unpretentious and 

comfortable bar. It has 

a familiar feel which will 

make you want to sit 

down and enjoy 

a drink under the 

low-lit chandelier. 

LIVE MUSIC 

Cirkus (43–45 

Djurgårdsslätten, tel: 08 

5879 8700) In the late 

19th century, when 

Cirkus was built, it 

housed travelling 

circuses. These days, 

the big top showcases 

travelling musicals 

and pop stars – 

Regina Spektor plays 


LATE & LIVELY 

Spy Bar (20 Birger 

Jarlsgatan, tel: 08 

5450 3701) The lines 

tend to be long and the 

doormen picky, but 

once you manage to 

get inside you will be 

partying in Stockholm’s 

most fantastic club, 

with the city’s most 

gorgeous people. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Linger for hours 

at Grandpa – this 

homely shop features 

a café, a soup kitchen 

and sometimes 

a live DJ. Pick up 

Scandinavian fashion, 

trendy accessories 

and knick-knacks 

(43 Fridhemsgatan). 


Saint Lucia celebration 

on 13 December. Catch 

the procession of young 

girls dressed in white 

with candles in their 

hair, and try the special 

festive buns, made with 

saffron and raisins. 

GO Djurgården, the 

island in the city, is 

best reached by boat 

from Södermalm, but 

can also be accessed 

on foot or by bus. 

Here you’ll fi nd many 

of the city’s favourite 

attractions, including 

the Vasa Museum. 

ESCAPE Uppsala is 

only 40 minutes away by 

train and has the oldest 

university in Sweden, 

founded in 1477. The 

city is full of beautiful 

sights, including idyllic 

Old Uppsala and the 

impressive cathedral 

that took 175 years 

to complete. 

TAXI TAXI 

NO WAY! 

Ingvar Kamprad, the 

founder of IKEA has 

been named this 

year as the richest 

person in Europe and 

the fi fth wealthiest 

person in the world. 

Victoria Larsson 

Tallinn 

Estonia 


CURRENCY Kroon (EEK) 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI The journey to the 

city takes about 

15–20 minutes and 

costs EEK150. 

Bus 2 goes to the 

centre, with two 

or three services every 

hour Monday–Friday, 

and one or two on the 

weekend. The journey 


Tickets: EEK20. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Vapiano 

(10 Hobujaama, tel: 682 

9010) This Italian fastfood 

chain does reliable 

antipasti dishes, pizzas 

and delicious pasta. 

UP TO €30 Kuldse 

Notsu Kõrts (8 Dunkri, 

tel: 628 6567) A country 

tavern-style eatery with 

eclectic cuisine. Almost 

every dish is made with 

pork – even the bread 

has bacon in it! 

UP TO €50 Museum 

(14 Vana Viru, tel: 646 

0901) This restaurant’s 


delightful décor 

combines red brick, dark 

wood and bright copper. 

Sit back in stylish 

surroundings and enjoy 

European dishes with a 

few Japanese favourites. 

EXCLUSIVE Chedi 

(1 Sulevimägi, tel: 646 

1676) Asian gourmet 

cuisine is created under 

the observant eye of 

Michelin award-winning 

British restaurateur 

Alan Yau. All spices are 

imported from the UK to 

create excellent dishes. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Musi (6 

Niguliste, tel: 644 3100) 

In this romantic bar (its 

name means kiss) enjoy 

a glass of wine and order 

some tasty nibbles. 

LIVE MUSIC 

Scotland Yard 

(6E Mere, tel: 653 

5190) Expect a line-up 

consisting of rock music 

at this pub – the name 

isn’t a coincidence, the 

BALTIC HOTEL 

IMPERIAL 

★ ★ ★ ★ ★ 

Highly personalised 

service and 

attention to detail 

are trademarks of 

this historical, oldstyle 

hotel, located 

in the heart of the 

old town of Tallinn. 

From €55, book 

at holidays. 

easyJet.com. 

whole setting has 

a police theme. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Korter (9 Roseni, tel: 


stands out for its 

alternative music – from 

dancehall to metal, with 

hip hop, jazz and live 

bands thrown in. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP The festive 

market by the Town 

Hall square combines 

local, medieval and 

seasonal traditions 

with handicrafts and 

beverages aplenty. 

SEE The recently 

opened Solaris mall 

has it all. Set over 

fi ve fl oors there are 

shops, restaurants, 

bars and eight cinemas 

(9 Estonia). 

GO The candlelight 

from the old farmhouse 

in the Estonian Open 

Air Museum’s Christmas 

Village is sure to fi ll you 

with a festive feeling. 

Christmas concerts 

and traditional games 

take place from 

19–20 December (12 

Vabaõhumuusemi tee). 

ESCAPE Laulasmaa 

Resort offers a lovely 

beach and pine forest 

for a brisk winter’s 

walk and a spa to 

warm you up afterwards 

(4 Puhkekodu, 

Laulasmaa Village). 

NO WAY! 

Tallinn’s fi rst public 

Christmas tree at the 

Town Hall Square dates 

back to 1441. Locals 

believe it was the fi rst 

public Christmas 

tree in the world. 

Ain Hinsberg


Tangier 

Morocco 


CURRENCY MAD 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI 

Take one of the 

cream-coloured 

taxis to the city for 

about MAD100. 



BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Africa 

(83 Rue Salah Eddine 

el-Ayoubi, Grand Socco) 

Most tourists just walk 

through the Grand Socco 

market, but choose to 

linger a little and order a 

sandwich with jiben 

arabi (cheese) at this 

counter and you won’t 

be disappointed. 

UP TO €30 Hotel 

Continental (36 Rue 

Dar Baroud, tel: 053 

993 1024) Located 

in the Old Medina, 

this historical hotel 


candlelit dinners and 

superb cuisine. 

UP TO €50 Tricam’s 

Restaurant and Piano 

Bar (Avenue Mohamed 

VI, tel: 053 932 3380) 

Enjoy a steak and a 

cocktail on the beach at 

this classy jazz bar and 

restaurant reminiscent 

of the great R’n’B 

lounges of New York. 

EXCLUSIVE Oriental 

Lounge (Rue de 

Cordoue Park Brooks 

(behind Intercontinental 

Hotel), tel: 053 993 

7945) Catering to 

those who want an 

exotic experience and 

exquisite food, this 

ornate 1950s banquet 

hall is now a restaurant 

with belly dancers on 

hand to entertain. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Number 

One (1 Boulevard 

Mohammed V, tel: 053 

994 1674) Karim, the 

amiable Englishspeaking 

owner, has 

a great music collection 

and he plays it quietly 

enough that his guests 

can sit and chat over 

their drink and tapas at 

this charming bar. 

LIVE MUSIC Space 

Lounge (Hotel Oumnia 

Puerto, 10 Avenue 

Beethoven, tel: 053 932 

5043) This respectable 

club’s DJ spins techno, 

salsa and hip hop. The 

party often lasts till 3am. 

LATE & LIVELY La 

Rose Bleue (Route de 

Boubana) Either hit the 

main dance fl oor or relax 

in the VIP room where 

there’s a second dance 

fl oor and a DJ playing 

tunes for the “It” crowd. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP The women at 

the cooperative Darna 

produce imaginative 

versions of traditional 

Moroccan clothes and 

the money goes to 

the street women and 

children of the city (Rue 

Jules Cot, Place du 9 

Avril, tel: 053 994 7065). 

SEE Two theatres 

in the centre of town 

have plenty to offer 

this month. The 

Cinematheque de 

Tanger (Grand Socco) 

shows new and vintage 

fi lms, and the Salle 

Beckett (behind Lycee 

Regnault) welcomes 

international and local 

talent to its stage. 

GO Only 15 minutes 

outside of downtown 

Tangier, the Royal Golf de 

Tanger was the second 

golf course on the entire 

African continent. It 

was built in 1914, and is 

home to international 

golf tournaments. There 

is a clubhouse on the 

premises to relax in 

before hitting the course 

(Route de Boubana, tel: 

053 993 8925). 

ESCAPE On a sunny 

day, head to the Roman 

ruins of Lixus just north 

of Larache. The trip is 

best done in a grand 

taxi and takes about 90 

minutes. Once there, 

enjoy the beautiful 

landscape and fi nd out 

more about the area’s 

fascinating history. 

NO WAY! 

Leonardo Di Caprio was 

in Tangier with director 

Christopher Nolan of 

The Dark Knight fame 

this summer, they 

were shooting the new 

Sci-Fi fi lm Inception 

due out in 2010. 

Melody Nelson 

Tel Aviv 

Israel 


CURRENCY ILS 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 

Holiday Taxis 





TAXI 


city centre is 

about ILS120. 

Trains to Central or 

HaShalom stations 

run twice hourly during 

the day and hourly at 

night. Tickets: ILS13.50. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Olive (24 

Lilenblum Street, tel: 03 

510 6680) This diner 

is well-known for its 

affordable food, smiling 

staff, and fast service. 

Order a custom-made 

sandwich on the go 

or sit in with a plate 

overfl owing with pasta. 

UP TO €30 Orna ve 

Ella (33 Sheinkin Street, 

tel: 03 620 4753) 

Probably the best Israeli 

bistro in Tel Aviv, Orna 

ve Ella opened its doors 

more than 12 years 

ago and still regularly 

packs in the locals. 

Don’t miss the delicious 

sweet potato fritter. 

EXCLUSIVE Raphael 

(87 Hayarkon Street, 

tel: 03 522 6464) With 

a delicious French- 

Mediterranean menu, 

Raphael’s is ideal for 

pushing the boat out. 

It has a winning 

combination: a beautiful 

location overlooking the 

beach, a sultry interior 

and high-end cuisine. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Wine Bar 

(15 Montefi ore Street, 

tel: 03 510 2923) This 

is one of the city’s 

hotspots, even though it 

is a relative newcomer. 

As you’d expect, the 

wine list is formidable. 

LIVE MUSIC Shablul 

Jazz (Hanger 13, Tel Aviv 

Port, tel: 03 546 1891) 

A cosy, enjoyable venue 

with daily performances 

from both Israeli and 

international artists. On 

Saturdays they hold 

a cool jazz event for kids. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Barzilay Club 

(13 Harechev Street, 

tel: 03 687 8090) 

An underground club 

UP TO 

€50 

Stefan Braun 

(99 Allenby Street, tel: 

03 560 4725) Named 

after the fur store 

that this restaurant 

took over, if you’re 

looking for a succulent 

meat dish, Stefan 

Braun for you. It’s 

one of the few places 

in the city with a real 

charcoal grill. 

Austria’s largest ski paradise – 

much more than meets the eye! 

located in an industrial 

neighbourhood, 

Barzilay hosts different 

parties at the weekend 

and occasionally 

through the week. 

It’s well-known for its 

electronic music parties 

and gay-friendly nights. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP For designer 

homeware, you 

can’t miss Soho 

– a wonderful store 

boasting numerous 

designer pieces for 

your home by local and 

international designers 

(Dizengof Center Mall, 

sohocenter.co.il). 

SEE Two eclectic music 

bands are performing 


at the Barby Club. Funkygypsy 

cabaret act Gogol 

Bordello are headlining, 

and French-Israeli duo 

Boogie Balagan’s ethnic 

rock will kick-start the 

performances (52 

Kibbutz Galuot Street). 

GO Tel Aviv Port has 

been transformed into 

a lively, vibrant place 

packed with plenty of 

restaurants and shops. 


south east of the 

city is Beit Govrin, 

an extraordinary 

historic site which was 

a bustling city 2,000 

years ago. It’s fi lled with 

natural and manmade 

caves which visitors 

can explore. 

NO WAY! 

Tel Aviv is renowned 

for its warm, sunny 

weather year-round, 

but it did snow once, 

in February 1950! 

Jonathan Canetti 

www.skiamade.co.uk

Schuss, don’t 

tell everyone! 

*Accommodation at the residence Cybele, Meribel Valley, France (based on 4 people sharing on the 16 January 2010). 

See website for details.


Tenerife 

South Spain 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI The fare to Playa 

de Las Americas 


Route 487 stops 

at Los Cristianos 

and Playa de Las 

Americas. The journey 


Tickets: €3 single; 

€4.50 return. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Happy 

Days Clubhouse 

(4 Calle Otero, Costa del 

Silencio, tel: 922 786 

831) Tuck into a threecourse 

meal, then work 

off the calories with a 

game of tennis at this 

popular location on the 

beautiful Silent Coast. 

UP TO €30 The Pig 

Farm (Plaza de la 

Iglesia, Cabo Blanco) 

This authentic-style 

restaurant is perfect 

for large groups and, 

as its name suggests, it 

specialises in succulent 

suckling pig. 

UP TO €50 Star of 

Asia (Golden Mile, Playa 

de Las Americas, tel: 

922 750 559) Cleverly 

combining the best 

of Asian and Indian 

cuisine, the Star is 

a real treat. Top-notch 

specialities include 

butter chicken. 

EXCLUSIVE Le 

Bistrot D’Alain 

(16 Valle Menendez, Los 

Cristianos, tel: 922 752 

326) Run by successful 

French restaurateur 

Alain Mills, this romantic 

restaurant gives diners 

a taste of France. Dishes 

such as duck confi t 

and lamb chaldron are 

just some of the stars 

on the menu. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY The 

Highlander (Parque 

de la Paz, Playa de 

Las Americas) This 

friendly Scottish-run 

pub offers traditional 

home-cooked food and 

the chance to catch 

those all-important TV 

sporting events. 

LIVE MUSIC The Full 

Monty 1 (The Patch, 

Playa de Las Americas) 

This lively venue has 

a super line-up of 

singers and comedians 

throughout the week. 

It serves good pub 

grub and has a childfriendly 

atmosphere. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Banana Gardens 

(Edifi cio Palm Beach, 

Avenida Rafael Puig, 

Playa de Las Americas, 

tel: 922 790 365) Live 

fl amenco shows and 

after-dinner dancing 

with a soundtrack by the 

fab resident Banana 

Band are the norm 

at this live music 

cocktail bar. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP El Corte Ingles 

in Santa Cruz is a vast 

department store 

selling everything from 

toys to clothes and 

homeware, making it the 

perfect place for a bit of 

last-minute Christmas 

shopping (7 Avenida 

del 3 de Mayo). 

SEE Join the locals 

at mass on Christmas 

Eve, and then party 

with huge celebrations 

on New Year’s Eve. 

It’s tradition to eat 12 

grapes for every 

stroke of the clock, so 

make sure you have 

yours ready! 

GO Santiago IV in Los 

Cristianos, commonly 

known as The Golden 

Mile, is home to 

many top designer 

fashion houses, 

high-class eateries 

and sophisticated wine 

bars. This time of year, 

it’s covered with lovely 

Christmas lights. 

ESCAPE Get into 

the festive spirit by 

taking the 45-minute 

drive up to Mount 

Teide. View the various 

types of wild poinsettias 

in the pine forests 

en route. If you’re 

lucky, there might 

be a sprinkling of snow 

on the ground. 

TAXI TAXI 

NO WAY! 

Despite its reliably 

warm climate all-yearround, 

Tenerife has an 

annual rainfall of 23.7 

centimetres a year. 

Natasha Laming 

Thessaloniki 

Greece 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI Fares to the city 

centre are metered. 

Expect to pay about €19. 

Route 78 goes 

directly to the city 

centre. Tickets: €0.50 

(€0.60 onboard). 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Zoiga 

(54 Alexander Svolou, 

tel: 2310 283 238) This 

quiet little coffee bar is 

an ideal place for a light 

snack or lunch away 

from the crowds. 

UP TO €30 MeatMe 

(24–26 Ermou) 

Enjoy hearty plates of 

succulent meat dishes 

cooked to perfection 

– the spare ribs are 

incredibly good. Also 

offers a good range of 

side orders and great 

salad bar, plus an 

excellent wine list. 

UP TO €50 I Kanoula 

(8 Raktivam, tel: 2310 

222 185) If you’re a fan 

of organic food, friendly 

I Kanoula has a wide 

range of healthy dishes 

on the menu. Order 

a glass or two of their 

homemade wine. 

EXCLUSIVE Miami 

Fish Tavern (18 Thetidos, 

tel: 2310 447 996) 

With a spectacular 

view across the ocean, 

this restaurant serves 

mouth-watering, fresh 

fi sh dishes. Book a table 

in time to watch the sun 

slip below the horizon. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Flocafe 

(41 Nikis Avenue, tel: 

2310 226 185) The 

place to be day or night. 

Its relaxing atmosphere 

attracts people of 

all ages, serving up 

tasty teas and 

coffees until late. 

LIVE MUSIC Mylos 

(56 Alexander Gerogiou, 

tel: 2310 551 838) Set in 

a renovated old mill, this 

entertainment centre 

always has something 

going on, and this 

month is no different 

with a selection of 

eclectic bands. Call 

ahead for more details. 

LATE & LIVELY Fuzz 

(Thessaloniki centre) 

This is a popular place 

for a dance any night of 

the week. It’s on a street 

with no name – just 

turn down Dragoumi 

Street and the bar is 

down the fi rst small 

alleyway on your left. 

Open from 10pm till the 

last guest heads home. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP At Fena Fresh 

you will fi nd unusual 

threads to punctuate 

your Christmas 

wardrobe. This store 

boasts great fashion, 

including some hardto-fi 

nd Japanese 

names and a juice bar if 

you’re feeling thirsty 

(8 Pavlou Mela Street). 

SEE The White Tower 

Museum is set in a 

15th-century Byzantine 

tower. It’s home to a 

fascinating permanent 

multimedia exhibition 

that takes a look 

at Thessaloniki’s 

history (lpth.org). 

GO Amble along 

Egnatia Street – which 

goes from the old 

university to the train 

station – taking in 

beautiful architecture 

along the way. The 

street is dotted with 

quaint bars and 

restaurants to dip 

into if you need 

a pick-me-up. 

ESCAPE Take the 

hour’s coach journey 

from the main bus 

station and head to 

Veria, a small village 

high in the mountains, 

famous for its delicious 

sweets and ice 

creams. The town’s 

high altitude affords 

stunning views and 

challenging walks 

– ideal for working 

up an appetite for a 

traditional-style lunch. 

NO WAY! 

Small earthquakes 

hit Thessaloniki on 

a regular basis, but 

nothing as powerful 

as the one in 1978, 

when many of the 

city’s beautiful 

Byzantine churches 

were destroyed. 

Darren Allen 

NEW DECOR, NEW FLAVOURS, NEW MENU... 

Welcome to Ladiko Restaurant 

3 Komninon str., Thessaloniki, 54624, Greece 

T: +302310268388 • E: info@ladiko.gr • www.ladiko.gr

Toulouse 

France 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 






centre is €25 

(€30 at night). 

The Toulouse- 

Blagnac Navette 

goes to the city centre 


5am–12.15am. 


BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Le Félibre 

(13 Rue des Couteliers, 

tel: 05 6175 7490) An 

unpretentious tearoomcafé 

serving yummy 

lunchtime treats, such 

as bagels and wraps. 

UP TO €30 Bat Bat 

(8 Rue de Filatiers, tel: 

05 6125 4949) This 

fantastic Vietnamese 

restaurant serves all 

the classics, plus plenty 

of vegetarian options, 

which is a bit of a rarity 

in France. 

UP TO €50 Le Cordon 

Rose (16 Rue Valade, 

tel: 05 6122 9792) Dine 

on delicious dishes 

served in this stylish 

venue right beside the 

river. Exciting inventions 

such as prawn lollipops 

stand by fi rm favourites 

on the menu. 

EXCLUSIVE Le 

Colombier (14 Rue 

Bayard, tel: 05 6162 

4005) The speciality 

is the local delicacy 

cassoulet (stew), order 

one here and see what 

all the fuss is about 

– smooth, rich and 

comforting – you’ll be 

back again and again. 

If you order an evening 

menu, it doesn’t have to 

blow the budget – they 

start from just €25. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Le Vasco 

Le Gamma (1 Place de 

l’Estrapade) Catch early 

evening music, a quiz, 

an Erasmus gathering or 

happy hour at this 

tapas bar, and you’ll be 

tempted to stay all night! 

LIVE MUSIC 

Mulligan’s (39 Grande 

Rue St Michel , tel: 05 

6114 0421) This Irish 

pub blows away winter 

cobwebs with live music 

on Thursday–Saturday 

nights. If you fancy your 

chances at a bilingual 

quiz, head down on 

Tuesday nights and on 

Saturdays the locals 

drink whisky till dawn. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Le Carno Caffe (3 

Boulevard Carnot, tel: 

05 6112 1128) If you’re 

sick of carols and tinsel, 

this place is the perfect 

antidote, with its tiger 

stripes and zebra skin, 

loud music and all-night 

partygoers sipping 

sweet mojitos. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Le Cri de la 

Framboise is hot hunting 

ground for Christmas 

presents – you’ll fi nd 

gifts here that you won’t 

fi nd anywhere else, 

including a selection 

of items which can be 

personalised (9 Rue 

des Paradoux). 

SEE Le Marché de Noël 

in the Place du Capitole 

is the main attraction in 

December with 

stalls selling trinkets, 

edible delights and 

mulled wine. Keep 

your eyes peeled for 

Father Christmas and 

other surprise events 

– last year there were 

magic dwarves! Open 


GO Visit the beautiful 

Quartier des Abattoirs 

perched above the river. 

It includes the ramparts 

and the Taillefer Tower 

as well as the abattoires 

themselves, which 

house a contemporary 

art gallery (76 Allees 

Charles de Fitte). 

ESCAPE A €25 

half-day bus tour of 

the animated nativity 

scenes in the villages 

around Toulouse on 19 

December starts at 

1pm. The crêches are 

a strong tradition in this 

part of the world and 

the intricate handy 

work that goes into 

making them, is not 

to be missed. 

TAXI TAXI 

NO WAY! 

The University 

of Toulouse was 

established in 1230 and 

is the second largest 

university in France. 

Samantha David 

Turin 

Italy 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI A taxi to the city 

costs about €35 

and the journey takes 

30 minutes. 

Buses leave every 


6.30am–11.30pm. The 

journey takes about 40 


BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Arcano 

Matto (17 Via Pietro 

Micca, tel: 011 547 953) 

Nested away on a small 

street, this place has rich 

selections of regional 

cheese and salami. 

UP TO €30 Sesamo 

(54 Corso Carlo e Nello 

Rosselli, tel: 011 509 

6561) Find seasonal 

products and creative 

cuisine at warm and 

friendly Sesamo. 

UP TO €50 The Beef 

Brasserie (5 Corso 

Moncalieri, tel: 011 819 

3378) An elegant French 

brasserie where the star 

of the menu is beef, in all 


shapes and forms. Think 

succulent entrecôte and 

Italian Fiorentina. 

EXCLUSIVE La 

Smarrita (17A Via 

Cesare Battisti, tel: 011 

836 628) Located in 

the Baroque Palazzo 

Salmatoris district, 

dishes are prepared 

with choice organic 

produce. Book ahead. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Obika (2 

Via Corte d’Appello, tel: 

011 765 0799) Forget 

sushi bars, Italians go to 

mozzarella bars! Choose 

your mozzarella and pair 

it with cured meats and 

a glass of red wine. 

LIVE MUSIC 

Suoneria (4 Via 

Partigiani, tel: 011 802 

8451) This recording 

studio has a concert hall 

which hosts a couple of 

big concerts a week. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Tribeca (10 Via Matteo 

Pescatore) Close to 

PRINCIPI DI 

PIEMONTE 

★ ★ ★ ★ ★ 

This prestigious 

hotel occupies an 

enviable location in 

the heart of the city. 

Dine at the Casa 

Savoia restaurant 

before retiring to 

your elegant room. 




the happening Piazza 

Vittorio Veneto, there’s 

a large list of cocktails, 

at this venue, and it’s 

open till late, so you have 

time to work through as 

many as you can! 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP From 5–23 

December, Piazza 

Borgo Dora transforms 

into a colourful 


Pick up tree 

decorations, nativity 

scenes and handmade 

gifts to take home. 

SEE The Museo di 

Antichità is running 

the Luxus exhibition 

throughout the month, 

where you can discover 

the culture and senses 

of ancient Rome 

(88C Via XX Settembre). 

GO With its shops and 

cafés, Galleria Subalpina 

is an excellent mall to 

meander through, well 

away from the winter 

chill. Built in 1874, the 

gallery boasts unique 

stores, including the 

Gilibert bookshop. 

ESCAPE Sestriere 

is the resort that all 

Italians in the know go to 

for some superb winter 

fun. Try your hand at 

skiing, snowboarding or 

even ice skating. Get the 

bus and enjoy the 90minute 

journey through 

beautiful landscapes. 

NO WAY! 

Luis Sepulveda, the 

Chilean fi lm director 

and political activist 

once said “I owe [Turin] 

for some very wonderful 

moments in my life as a 

writer and as a person”. 

Elena Pietrovichillo


Valencia 

Spain 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI The 20-minute 

journey to the city 

centre costs €10–€15. 

Metro lines 3 and 

5 run straight to 

the city centre (Colón). 


BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 La Tasca 

de Russafa (48 Calle 

de Cádiz, tel: 963 818 

530) Munch on a plate 

of olives over an antique 

wine cask or opt for the 

menú del día at one of 

the many tables. 

UP TO €30 La Santa 

(13 Calle Císcar, tel: 963 

346 001) Take your pick 

from a large tapas menu 

that includes patatas 

bravas (fried potatoes), 

and anchovies, and 

enjoy the friendly crowd 

at this local favourite. 

UP TO €50 Tastem 

(14 Calle Ernesto Ferrer, 

tel: 963 696 851) Learn 

your fi rst word in 

Valenciano (tastem, 

meaning taste it) then 

tuck into the chef’s sushi 

platter at this upmarket 

Japanese eatery. 

EXCLUSIVE Tahine 

Carme (8 Calle Corona, 

tel: 963 156 042) 

This new opening 

boasts an exciting 

menu thanks to 

innovative head chef 

Eduardo Phillips Blanco. 

The taco de rabo de 

toro (bull’s tail taco) is 

one of the highlights of 

a delicious menu. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Sherlock 

Holmes (3 Plaza 

Manises, tel: 963 918 

342) Serving a range 

of specialist beers, this 

is one of the best Irish 

pubs in Valencia. Catch 

weekly live music too. 

LIVE MUSIC El 

Loco (12 Calle Erudito 

Orellana, tel: 963 853 

806) Welcoming bands 

from across the country 

and occasionally further 

afi eld, El Loco packs in 

a good-time crowd with 

the best live funk and 

reggae in town. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Piccadilly Downtown 

Club (Calle Embajador 

Vich) Despite the 

dubious little entrance, 

it’s not as seedy as it 

seems: accomplished DJ 

sets feature electro and 

pop until the early hours. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Satiate your 

inner Santana with 

a purchase from electric 

guitar specialists Tex 

Mex Guitars. Just the 

window display of 

vintage axes will make 

you feel like picking up a 

guitar (13 Calle Sueca). 

SEE Until 10 January, 

catch Joaquín Sorolla’s 

magnifi cent Visión de 

España. Comprising of 

14 large-scale paintings 

(up to 14 feet high), 

the series colourfully 

depicts the different 

regions of Spain (Centro 

Cultural Bancaja). 

ESCAPE Take 

advantage of the cooler 

weather and clamber 

across the castle that 

overlooks Xativa. 

A 40-minute train ride 

from Valencia’s Estación 

del Norte, the town 

itself is worth an 

explore and full of good 

restaurants (xativa.es). 

TAXI TAXI 

TORRE DEL 

MICALET 

GO Take the steep 

walk up the steps 

of Torre del Micalet 

and you’ll be 

rewarded with one 

of the best views of 

the old town. The 

entrance is at the 

north-west end 

of the beautiful 

and bustling Plaza 

de la Reina. 

NO WAY! 

Christian historians 

believe that evidence 

points to a chalice in 

the city cathedral as the 

most likely candidate for 

being the authentic cup 

used at the Last Supper. 

Owain Thomas 

Venice 

Italy 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 





TAXI The fare to Piazzale 

Roma is about €30. 

ACTV yellow bus 5 

runs every 30 

minutes (15 minutes 

at peak times) to 

Piazzale Roma, taking 


Tickets: €2.50 single. 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Bar 

All’Angolo (3464 

Campo San Stefano, 

San Marco, tel: 041 

522 0710) Popular with 

the locals who drop in 

for a drink, sandwich 

or a warming plate of 

delicious pasta. 

UP TO €30 Osteria 

Da Carla (1535 Corte 

Contarina, San Marco, 

tel: 041 523 7855) 

Tucked away on a little 

street behind Piazza 

San Marco, this osteria 

(inn) offers a reliable 

selection of cold snacks 

and hot dishes in 

a friendly atmosphere. 

UP TO €50 Pane Vino 

e San Daniele (1722 

Campo dell’Anzolo 

Rafael, Dorsoduro, tel: 

041 523 7456) Platters 

of local San Daniele 

cured ham, salamis and 

cheese are what pulls 

in the crowds here. 

Wash them down with 

a fantastic Friulian wine. 

EXCLUSIVE Met 

Restaurant (4149 

Riva degli Schiavoni, 

Castello, tel: 041 520 

5044) Dine in Venice’s 

only Michelin-starred 

restaurant, awarded for 

its adventurous Italian 

fusion cuisine. Dinner is 

served in the Metropole 

Hotel’s courtyard and 

lunch in the bar with 

views over the lagoon. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Imagina 

Cafè (3126 Campo 

Santa Margherita, 

Dorsoduro, tel: 041 241 

0625) A perfect spot 

to start a good night 

out in the lively Campo 

Santa Margherita area. 

This venue is a wine 

bar-café-art gallery and 

excels at all three. 

LIVE MUSIC 

Tarnowska American 

Bar (2497 Campo 

Santa Maria del Giglio, 

San Marco, tel: 041 

520 8333) There’s a 

mixed programme 

of live piano music 

from 9pm–midnight, 

Wednesdays–Sundays 

in the bar of Hotel Ala. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Centrale (1659B 

Piscina Frezzeria, San 

Marco, tel: 041 296 

0664) At this canal-side 

venue there’s live jazz 

on Thursdays and chill- 




‰ 

out and lounge beats till 

2am on other evenings. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Coin, Venice’s 

only department 

store, is the place 

for stylish Italian 

clothes, accessories 

and homeware at 

affordable prices 

(5787 Cannaregio). 

SEE The Palladio 

exhibition at the Correr 

Museum in Piazza San 

Marco concentrates 

on the huge impact 

renaissance architect, 

Andrea Palladio had on 

Venice, building beautiful 

villas and palaces. 

GO This month Campo 

San Stefano is fi lled 

with stalls selling food 

and wines, Campo San 

Luca has crafts and 

household goods, and 

there’s an antiques fair 

in Campo San Maurizio. 

ESCAPE Treviso, 

just 30 minutes 

away by train, has 

many attractions: 

fi ne architecture and 

excellent trattorias, 

including a famous local 

eatery, Toni del Spin, 

or enjoy the winter sun 

during a walk along the 

old city walls. 

NO WAY! 

In the 18th century the 

orphan girl musicians 

of the Ospedaletto 

Home immortalized 

themselves by using 

their savings to pay for 

their music room to be 

decorated with frescoes 

depicting them and their 

music teacher. 

Roderick Conway 

Morris/roderickconway 

morris.com 


Vienna 

Austria 


CURRENCY € 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 






centre costs €30. 

Catch the CAT to 

the centre. Trains 

UP TO €50 Plachutta 

(38 Wollzeile, tel: 01 

512 1577) Dinner at this 

restaurant is a truly 

cultural experience. 

The house speciality is 

traditional boiled beef 

with vegetables, using 

locally sourced produce. 

EXCLUSIVE 

Steirereck (Stadtpark, 

tel: 01 713 3168) Treat 

yourself to an early 

Christmas present 

at this temple of 

gastronomic delight. A 

double Michelin-starred 

affair, Steirereck serves 

up exquisite Austrian 

cuisine in a pavilion in 

the Stadtpark. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Demel 

(14 Kohlmarkt, tel: 01 

535 1717) Vienna’s 

confectioners take 

great pride in conjuring 

up wonderful Christmas 

window displays, but 

the unrivalled marzipan 

maestro is the pastry 

chef at Demel. Drop 

by for coffee, cake and 

chocolates galore. 

LIVE MUSIC Ost Klub 

(10 Schwarzenbergplatz, 

tel: 01 505 6228) Ost 

Klub (East Club) is a 

fusion of sounds, mixing 

Balkan and western 

styles – enjoy dub, funk, 

ska, blues and rock. It 

has had a loyal crowd for 

years who come to party. 

LATE & LIVELY 

Fluc (5 Praterstern) 

Located towards the 

river, Fluc is well 

worth the trek. DJs 

from far-fl ung shores 

regularly drop in and 

entertain crowds 

until the early hours 

of the morning. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Get kitted 

out like a Habsburg 

prince at Loden Plankl, 

a traditional Viennese 

clothing shop. Classic, 

well-tailored garments 

can be bought in 

this luxury store 

(6 Michaelerplatz). 

SEE Head to the 

Belvedere Palace for 

a retrospective glance 

at Herbert Boeckl, 

a key fi gure in Austrian 

modern art. Be sure to 

check out the palace 

grounds, housing 

a Christmas market and 

offering a magnifi cent 

panorama over the city. 

GO By tradition, the 

expanse in front of the 

Rathausplatz (town hall) 

becomes the main focus 

of the yuletide festivities. 

Besides a Christmas 

market, there’s a winter 

wonderland with 

fantastical diversions 

for youngsters. 

ESCAPE If you’ve got 

a spare day, jump on a 

train to Graz, which now 

houses the ultra-cool 

Kunsthaus art centre, 

also known as “the 

Blob” for its rounded 

façade. Wander around 

the exhibitions and then 

fi nd a cool restaurant 

for lunch, before 

heading back. It’s about 

two hours from Vienna. 

TAXI TAXI 

leave every 30 minutes. 

Tickets: €9 single. 

The Vienna Airport 

Lines bus goes 

to the city centre every 

30 minutes. Tickets: €6 


BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Caffé 

Latte (39 Neubaugasse, 

tel: 01 523 5509) 

The ever-popular Caffé 

Latte serves up a range 

of tasty breakfasts 

and brunches 

throughout the day. 

UP TO €30 

Zwolf-Apostelkeller 

(3 Sonnenfelsgasse, 

tel: 01 512 6777) 

This traditional cellar 

restaurant comes to life 

with live music some 

nights. Beat the cold 

and enjoy a hearty meal 

with local wine or beer. 

NO WAY! 

A Polish noble, Jerzy 

Kulczycki, founded 

Vienna’s fi rst café with 

a sack of beans given 

to him by the Polish 

King after he fought 

off the Turks in 1683. 

Nick Hodge/ 

vienna-life.com 

Zurich 

Switzerland 


CURRENCY CHF 

FROM THE 

AIRPORT 





Holiday Taxis 






centre is about 

CHF60 and the journey 


Trains make the 

10-minute journey 

to the city centre 


Tickets: CHF6.20 

BON APPETIT 

UP TO €15 Delicato 

(40 Uraniastrasse, tel: 

043 344 8549) A Greek 

culinary paradise where 

you can dine-in or 

take-away the kitchen’s 

delicious delicacies. 

UP TO €30 

Casablanca 

(62 Langstrasse, tel: 

044 241 6000) Look 

out over the busy street 

from the vast windows 

of this café. Asian 

soups and quiches 

are available all day. 

UP TO €50 Sento 

(19 Zürichbergstrasse, 

tel: 044 251 1910) The 

contemporary interior 

Directly from the airport to the city 

The most convenient way from the airport to Vienna 

and Baden. Departs right outside the arrival hall. 


and innovative Italian 

menu make this a local 

hot spot. Enjoy superb 

cuisine and a whole host 

of tempting cocktails. 

EXCLUSIVE Mesa 

(75 Weinbergstrasse, tel: 

043 321 7575) The chic 

interior of this restaurant 

complements the light, 

classic menu. Renowned 

Austrian celebrity chef 

Marcus G Lindner 

recently took the reigns 

of this fi ne-dining venue. 

AFTER DARK 

LOW KEY Jules 

Verne (9 Uraniastrasse, 

tel: 043 888 6666) Take 

in stunning city views 

over a drink at this bar 

on top of the famous 

Urania observatory. 

LIVE MUSIC 

Rohstoffl ager 

(Duttweilerstrasse, 

tel: 044 439 9090) A 

gigantic old milk factory, 

which now hosts live 

gigs with a focus on 

electro, pop and rock. 

FOUR POINTS 

BY SHERATON 

SIHLCITY ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ 

Guests have the 

chance to revitalise 

their senses in 

the Asia Spa 

Sihlcity – enjoy 

all-day pampering 

in harmony with 

mind, body and soul. 




LATE & LIVELY 

Helvetia Bar 

(1 Stauffacherquai, tel: 

044 297 9999) The 

charming bar staff 

serve a hip, friendly 

crowd that fl ock here 

to rock out at weekends. 

THIS MONTH 

SHOP Switzerland is, 

of course, famous for its 

watch-making skills, but 

Maurice de Mauriac is 

one of few Zurich-born 

brands. The watches are 

a unique blend of Swiss 

quality with futuristic 

styles (48 Todistrasse). 

SEE Zurich’s sweetest 

Christmas market is at 

Werdmuhleplatz with 

the “Singing Christmas 

Tree” children’s 

concerts. Until 13 

December, children 

are arranged and 

decorated to look like 

a tree and sing carols. 

GO Take a stroll along 

the car-free quay of 

Limmatquai-Rathaus, 

which is home to cafés, 

and quirky boutiques. 

The renaissance-style 

Town Hall and the 

Wasserkirche (church) 

line the banks of the 

river nearby. 

ESCAPE Titlis has the 

highest viewpoint and 

the only glacier in central 

Switzerland. Experience 

the spectacular views of 

the stunning crevasses 

from the cable car. Take 

the 90-minute train 

from Zurich. 

NO WAY! 

Zurich is home to 

Europe’s oldest veggie 

restaurant, the Hiltl, 

which opened in 1898. 

Celeste Neill-Duvoisin

CUSTOMER | CARE 

As the winter sports season is now upon us, 

Aurora Debattisti from our Customer Experience 

Team answers some of your questions 

How do I book my winter 

sports equipment? 

You are able to add winter 

sports equipment at the time of 

booking your fl ight; you can do 

There are so many good reasons to fly with easyJet 

and we’re not just talking about the price tag here! 


this by clicking on the Sports 

Equipment option during the 

booking process. 

Can I add winter sports 

equipment after I have 

made my booking? 

Yes, you can add this online 

by going to easyJet.com and 

clicking on ‘My easyJet.com’ at 

the top right of our homepage. 

Can I add other items to 

my sports equipment? 

No, you can only carry either 

How to Contact Us 

Our customer 

experience team is 

available to help you, 

they are open 8am 

– 8pm Monday to 

Friday and 9am 

– 5pm Saturday 

Fly through the airport 

★ Check in online up to 60 days 

before you fl y. 

★ By-pass check-in and go 

straight to boarding group A. 

★ Print your own boarding 

card. For customers travelling 

with one piece of hand 

baggage only. 

No weight limit 

on hand baggage 

★ Assuming you can fi t it into 

the overhead bins without 

assistance, your hand baggage 

can weigh as much as you like. 

★The dimensions of your 

hand baggage must not exceed 

a signifi cant 56cm x 45cm 

and Sunday 

(local times)* 

0871 244 2366 

0826 103 320 

899 234 589 

807 070070 

01805 029 292 

0900 000 258 

0900 265 8020 

0703 203 025 

0900 000206 

Rest of the world 

+44 870 6 000 000 

x 25cm (including wheels, 

handles and pockets) and you 

can carry one piece only. 

Hop on an earlier fl ight for 

free if we’ve got a seat 

★ If you turn up early at the 

airport for your fl ight home, 

then you can transfer onto 

an earlier fl ight on the same 

day for free! 

★ Also, if you’re fl ying back 

to London then you can 

transfer to any London 

airport be it Gatwick, 

Stansted or Luton. 

★ Just make your way to 

the easyJet sales desk to fi nd 

out more. 

skis or a snowboard 

Can I take my boots 

onboard with me? 

You can take your boots 

onboard with you but this 

constitutes your one piece 

of hand baggage. Your hand 

baggage dimensions must not 

exceed 56cm x 25cm x 45cm 

and may be checked at the gate 

to ensure they comply. 

What happens if I have an 

accident during my trip? 

* Please refer to 

easyJet.com for call 

charges. Calls may be 

recorded to improve 

your experience when 

travelling with or 

contacting us. 

Catch the next 

available fl ight for just 

£38 if you miss yours 

★ Don’t worry! If you have 

booked a return fl ight with 

us and arrive late at the 

airport for your fl ight 

home, then you may be able 

to transfer onto the 

next available fl ight for 

just £38. 

★ To be eligible, both the 

outbound and inbound 

fl ights must be under the 

same booking reference. 

Just make your way to the 

easyJet sales desk to fi nd 

out if this is available. 

We hope this may never happen 

to you but it can happen from 

time to time. If you do have 

an accident, you’re able to fl y 

with us if you have a fi t-to-fl y 

certifi cate from your doctor. 

Your letter or certifi cate from 

your doctor must state you are 

fi t to fl y; you will not be able to 

fl y if it doesn’t state this. 

From all of us at easyJet 

we hope you have a great time 

on and off piste this winter! 

Follow us on Twitter 

@easyJetCare 

We’re on twitter – follow 

us to receive information 

on how to make your travel 

experience better. 

Change your fl ight 

itinerary online 

★ Changing your easyJet 

fl ight itinerary online is simple 

★ Just go to My easyJet.com 

Speedy Boarding/ 

Speedy Boarding Plus! 

★ First through the gate 

and dedicated check-in (where 

available) for a small fee. 

★ Just book Speedy Boarding/ 

Speedy Boarding Plus! with 

your next easyJet fl ight/s. 

One of the world’s 

youngest fl eet 

★ With an average age of 3.4 

years our aircraft are amongst the 

quietest and cleanest in the world.

Your Conduct Onboard 

Please consider your fellow 

passengers whilst onboard this 

fl ight and in particular the 

following information, which is 

in place in the interest of your 

safety and comfort. 

★ Smoking 

Smoking on any easyJet 

fl ight is strictly forbidden. 

★ Alcohol 

As explained in our retail 

brochure, alcoholic drinks are 

available onboard. These are 

served at the crew’s discretion to 

passengers of legal drinking age. 

Whilst onboard, you can consume 

alcoholic drinks purchased at the 

easyKiosk only. 

★ Safety Equipment 

In accordance with UK and 

international law, the captain is 

in command of the aircraft and 

every person onboard shall obey 

his or her lawful commands. In 

Thank you 

Our passengers raised over 

£420,000 in three months 

for Alzheimer’s Society 

Funds raised from our 

summer infl ight collections 

of passengers’ leftover 

currency have raised 

over £420,000 for 

Alzheimer’s Society. 

easyJet chose Alzheimer’s 

Society as our charity of the 

year after a vote by 7,000 

members of staff from 

across Europe. We will 

continue to collect funds for 

Alzheimer’s Society in 2010 

fact, captains have the authority 

to take any actions they deem 

necessary to manage passengers 

who are disruptive or cause 

problems during fl ights. 

Please be reminded not to 

tamper with or remove any 

safety equipment onboard this 

aircraft, including the lifejackets. 

Any unauthorised actions 

may jeopardise the safety of 

other passengers and lead to 

prosecution. As explained in the 

safety announcement lifejackets 

are provided only in the event of 

passengers landing on water. 

★ Sharps Boxes 

Hypodermic 

needles are 

permitted onboard 

for medical use and 

should always be 

Hypodermic 

syringes 

disposed of in a proper sharps 

box. If you need to dispose of a 

needle please contact a member 

of the cabin crew. 

and have pledged to raise 

£1m to support people living 

with dementia. 

Neil Hunt, Chief Executive, 

Alzheimer’s Society, says: 

“A very big thank you to 

easyJet passengers and staff 

for such a generous donation. 

This will help people live 

well with dementia today 

and fund research to fi nd a 

cure for tomorrow.” 

For more information about 

Alzheimer’s Society visit 

alzheimers.org.uk 

★ Use of Electronic Devices 

Electronic devices, including 

mobile phones, can not be used 

whilst walking to/from the 

aircraft and must be switched off 

during take off and landing. 

However, electronic devices 

that you can use during the 

fl ight after take off and before 

landing include: 

★ Bluetooth devices excluding 

telephones. 

★ Devices that have a ‘fl ight 

mode’ or ‘fl ight safe’ setting, 

provided the fl ight safe mode 

setting is enabled before the 

aircraft doors are closed. 

★ Laptops including those with 

built-in WLAN/WiFi provided 

the WLAN/WiFi is turned off. 

★ Electronic games, MP3, DVD 

and CD players. 

If in doubt, please keep devices 

switched off for the duration 

of the fl ight as they may interfere 

with systems 

Quick facts! 

★ We have 437 routes, fl y 

to 111 airports and operate 

in 28 countries! 

★ easyJet employs 3,472* 

cabin crew across the 

network, with a further 

327** Swiss cabin crew. 

★ easyJet has been 

unveiled as Business 

Traveller magazine’s Best 

Low Cost Airline for the 

ninth consecutive year, 

and Sunday Times Travel 

magazine’s Favourite 

Budget Airline for 2009. 

Seating 

capacity 

Number 

of crew 

Take off speed 

Cruising speed 

Range 

Boeing 

737-700 

149 

2 pilots and 

3 cabin crew 

162 mph 

530 mph 

3800 miles 

Airbus 

A319 

156 

PASSENGER | INFO 

★ easyJet has won the award 

for Best Airline Website by 

Travolution, the UK’s leading 

online multi-media travel 

industry publication. The 

highly prestigious awards 

recognised easyJet.com as 

“straightforward and 

easy-to-use, this much 

improved website has managed 

to integrate discreet use of 

up-selling and has integrated 

its partners in a smart way, 

all with some cutting edge 

user experience tools”. 

2 pilots and 

4 cabin crew 

150 mph 

500 mph 

3000 miles 

Airbus 

A320 

174/180 

2 pilots and 

4 cabin crew 

150 mph 

520 mph 

3050 miles 

Airbus 

A321 

210 

2 pilots and 

5 cabin crew 

155 mph 

580 mph 

3500 miles 

DECEMBER 09 | TRAVELLER | 181 

*CORRECT AT 29 SEPTEMBER 2009 **CORRECT AT 31 AUGUST 2009

NOTICIAS | CASTELLANO 

No te pierdas los canales 

holandeses bajo cero 

Ámsterdam es una 

ciudad para todos 

los gustos, así como 

para todas las épocas 

del año. Si en verano 

puedes disfrutar 

del colorido de los 

tulipanes, en invierno 

la capital holandesa 

te ofrece su cara más 

entrañable con los 

paseos por los canales 

bien abrigados, los 

Para hacer la vida más 

sencilla a todos aquellos 

que tienen que viajar por 

negocios, easyJet piensa 

en vosotros y ofrece 

cada vez más comodidad 

y versatilidad a la hora 

de volar. 

easyJet ya amplió frecuencias 

a los centros de 

negocio por excelencia 

como París, Londres o 

Ámsterdam, entre otros. 

Ahora, para conseguir 

que tengas aun más fl exibilidad 

para asistir a tus 

reuniones y no tengas 


cálidos cafés y los 

museos como el de 

Van Gogh como una 

buena alternativa 

para combatir el frío. 

Además, si eres 

amante de la cerveza 

puedes descubrir el 

secreto en una de 

las mayores fábricas. 

Si, por el contrario, 

quieres darle una 

sorpresa a tu 

Más facilidades en los 

vuelos business 

que perder más 

tiempo del necesario, 

easyJet amplía a tres 

frecuencias sus vuelos 

diarios a Lisboa. 

Además, queremos 

que tengas en cuenta 

para tus próximos viajes 

que easyJet cambia de 

aeropuerto en Roma, 

pasando de Ciampino 

a Fiumicino con dos 

frecuencias diarias. 

Y para que no pierdas 

más tiempo del necesario 

en tus viajes por 

negocios, queremos 

pareja, los mejores 

especialistas en 

diamantes te esperan. 

Lo nunca visto, 

vuela a Ámsterdam 

desde 23,99 € 

por trayecto. 

ponerte al día de las 

muchas ventajas que 

te ofrece easyJet, sus 

productos business. 

Desde imprimir la 

tarjeta online haciendo 

speedy boarding para 

no perder tiempo en el 

aeropuerto, hasta unas 

tarifas increíbles que 

te permiten coger 

diferentes vuelos si 

cambian tus horarios (si 

tu reunión acaba antes 

de lo previsto, puedes 

coger un vuelo más 

pronto, por ejemplo). 

City Breaks 

Si este invierno no quieres dejar de 

viajar, te ofrecemos destinos para todos 

los gustos, desde los destinos más 

exóticos para pasar un invierno de lo 

más calentito hasta los destinos ideales 

para pasear y visitar bien abrigado. 

Toma nota y elige a tú gusto… 

Si quieres un invierno 

de lo más exótico… 

• Fuerteventura, desconecta de la 

rutina relajándote bajo el mejor clima 

volando desde solo 24,99 € por trayecto 

(tasas incluidas). 

• Lanzarote, admira los parajes tan 

tropicales de Lanzarote desde 17,49 € 

por trayecto (tasas incluidas). 

• Marrakech, ciudad de sabores, olores 

y colores, espera que la descubras y 

pasees por sus plazas desde 19,99 € 

(todo incluido). 

• Casablanca, con la segunda mayor 

mezquita del mundo y el minarete más 

alto, es una ciudad de belleza imperdible. 

Deléitate desde 22,99 € (todo incluido). 

• Tánger, desde la ciudad podemos 

acceder a playas interminables de arena 

blanca con zonas vírgenes o, si se 

prefi ere, hasta las montañas del Riff, 

uno de los grandes atractivos de la zona. 

Desde 17,99 € (todo incluido). 

En invierno, un paseo 

por el este… 

• Bucarest, descubre una ciudad 

en la que todo es sorprendente, 

incluso puedes visitar el increíble 

Palacio del Parlamento, el cual cuenta 

con seis mil habitaciones. Vuela a 

Bucarest desde 22,99 € por trayecto 

(tasas incluidas). 

• Sofía, la capital dorada, una de las 

más antiguas del mundo, admirando 

sus grandes cúpulas y sus monumentos 

que no te dejarán impasible. Vuela a 

Sofía desde 25,99 € por trayecto 

(tasas incluidas).

Babbo Natale segue la nostra scia 

easyJet ti porta al Nord a scoprire la vera magia del Natale 

STOCCOLMA 

Non ti vogliamo augurare un 

buon Natale. Ti vogliamo dare il 

migliore. easyJet ti porta nel 

cuore delle feste di Stoccolma 

a solo 23,99 € da Malpensa. 

Ti sveglierai con il profumo della 

cannella e di altre spezie. Segui 

la scia e arriverai ai mercatini di 

Skansen, dove, tra una bancarella 

di vetro soffi ato e una di giocattoli 

di legno, potrai anche realizzare 

la tua candela. Che ne dici ora 

di una passeggiata al parco? In 

Kungstradgarden c’è una pista 

ghiacciata, dove noleggiare i 

pattini. Se poi per fare sport 

hai bisogno di musica, spegni il 

lettore mp3: ci penseranno i vari 

gruppi che suonano nel parco a 

farti da colonna sonora. Se oltre 

alla musica, senti anche un certo 

languorino, prendi il battello per 

l’isola di Utö. La calma e il silenzio 

dell’acqua lascerà il passo alla 

vivacità dei venditori di leccornie. 

Addenta una salsiccia alla griglia e 

poi addolcisciti con le lussebullar. 

Al ritorno dalla gita, quando la 

sera sarà già scesa, vai a vedere 

le mille luci di Gamla Stan e del 

suo albero. Anche gli svedesi 

partecipano alla scenografi a, 

abbellendo le fi nestre delle case 

con candelabri e decorazioni 

dell’Avvento. Uno spettacolo che 

vale un brindisi di glogg, il locale 

vin brulé. Dedicane un altro 

anche alla regina della luce, 

Santa Lucia, che il 13 verrà 

incoronata a Skansen e canterà 

con il suo corteo in vostro 

onore. Altro che Babbo: sarai un 

nababbo di Natale. 

LONDRA 

A Londra il Natale si sente così 

tanto che te ne accorgerai 

già sul tuo volo da Fiumicino 

o da Malpensa a soli 23,99 €. 

Se vuoi viverlo davvero, inizia da 

Knightsbridge, o meglio: da 

Harrods. Lì troverai qualunque 

cosa ti possa venire in mente, 

dalle idee regalo ai gioielli, 

dagli abiti ai cibi più prelibati. Nel 

pomeriggio vai a Covent Garden 

a girare per le bancarelle e a 

vedere l’albero. Da lì passeggia 

fi no in centro: Leicester Square, 

Piccadilly, Regent e Oxford 

Street. Per cena scaldati in un 

pub inglese a Soho, o in uno dei 

tanti ristoranti. E per fi nire non 

c’è niente di meglio che andare a 

pattinare vicini al London Eye. E 

continuare a volare. 

AMSTERDAM 

Babbo Natale ad Amsterdam si 

chiama Sinterklaas e arriva il 14 

novembre. Ma i festeggiamenti 

per lui vanno avanti per tutto 

dicembre: qualunque giorno 

andrà bene per il tuo volo da 

Fiumicino o da Malpensa a soli 

23,99 € e assaporare l’atmosfera 

natalizia olandese. Iniziando da 

Museumplein. La piazza dei Musei 

è totalmente rivoluzionata dal 

mercato natalizio e dalla pista di 

pattinaggio aperta sino a tardi. Da 

lì passeggia fi no al canale Singel, 

per goderti il mercato dei fi ori 

galleggiante e per fare un giro 

nel Christmas Palace dove potrai 

trovare ogni genere di regalo. 

Lo shopping ti ha messo fame? 

Regalati una lussuosa cena al 

celebre Envy Delicaces seguita da 

quattro salti nel club più cool: il 

Jimmy Woo, naturalmente. 

BRUXELLES 

Vola da Malpensa a Bruxelles 

con soli 23,99 € tasse incluse. 

Meglio risparmiare in vista di 

tutto lo shopping che farai tra 

le oltre 200 bancarelle del 

Mercatino di Natale. Perditi a 

Place St-Jean e poi per tutto il 

quartiere di Sainte-Catherine. 

Troverai davvero di tutto: 

artigianato, decorazioni, 

specialità gastronomiche, presepi 

di ogni genere. A proposito di 

presepi: vai in Grand Place dove 

potrai ammirare la ricostruzione 

della nascita di Gesù Bambino 

con statue a grandezza naturale 

e il maestoso albero di Natale. 

NOTIZIE | ITALIANO 

L’atmosfera ti ha fatto venire 

fame? Gustati le gauffres con 

panna e cioccolato: avrai le 

energie giuste per una bella 

pattinata sulla pista illuminata di 

Marché-aux-Poissons. Pronto? 

BASILEA 

Dicembre illumina Basilea. Sono 

le luci di tutti i mercatini che 

invadono e colorano la città. 

Scommettiamo che spenderai 

in shopping molto più dei 23,99 

€ del volo in partenza da 

Roma? Riparti dal centro storico: 

ci sono più di 130 bancarelle 

dove trovare tutti i regali che 

hai sempre voluto trovare 

sotto l’albero. E anche sopra: 

qui sono maestri negli addobbi 

natalizi artigianali. A proposito di 

specialità, è tempo di assaggiare 

quelle della gastronomia svizzera: 

Senneroschti con un bicchiere 

di Hypokras. Dopo il pranzetto 

ristoratore, concediti un’altra 

coccola: la dolcezza dei Basler 

Lackerli e di una passeggiata 

abbracciati sul lungofi ume. E se 

vuoi vedere il Reno ancor più da 

vicino, non perderti il mercatino 

nella terrazza sull’acqua del Cafè 

Spitz. Già che sei all’Hotel Merian 

fermati al ristorante, è uno dei 

migliori. Del resto è anche giusto 

farsi un regalo, no? 


NEUIGKEITEN | DEUTSCH 

Neue Strecken von 

Düsseldorf und Hamburg! 

Jetzt geht’s ab von 

Düsseldorf! Zusätzlich 

zu unserer Anfang 

November 2009 

gestarteten Tagesrandverbindung 

zwischen 

dem Wirtschaftsstandort 

Düsseldorf 

und Basel-Freiburg im 

Dreiländereck 

Frankreich-Schweiz- 

Ankunft des fünften 

Flugzeugs in 

Basel-Freiburg! 

Im Sommer 2010 ist es soweit, dann 

begrüßen wir mit Ihnen unser fünftes 

Flugzeug in Basel-Freiburg! Mit der 

Stationierung der neuen Maschine werden 

wir unser Reiseangebot ab Basel-Freiburg 

um neue, spannende und interessante 

Destinationen erweitern können und uns 

auf diese Weise bei Ihnen für Ihre Treue 

und Ihre Flüge mit uns bedanken. Für 

aktuelle Informationen zu unseren neuen 

Flugzielen besuchen Sie regelmäßig 

easyJet.com und registrieren Sie sich für 

unseren Newsletter! 

Frohe Weihnachten 

und einen 

guten Rutsch! 

Wir wünschen Ihnen ein frohes 

Weihnachtsfest und ein gesundes und 

erfolgreiches Jahr 2010! Wir würden uns 

freuen, Sie auch im nächsten Jahr auf 

unseren zahlreichen Strecken in ganz 

Europa begrüßen zu dürfen! Sie sind noch 

unschlüssig, wie und wo Sie Ihre Festtage 

verbringen? Dann stöbern Sie doch noch 

ein wenig in unserem Bord-Magazin und 

unter easyJet.com in unseren attraktiven 

Angeboten und starten Sie mit uns in die 

Feiertage und ins Neue Jahr! 


Deutschland ab 

26,99 €*, fl iegen wir ab 

Februar 2010 vom internationalen 

Flughafen 

Düsseldorf nach Rom 

und London Gatwick 

jeweils ab 26,99 €*. 

Gleichzeitig startet 

Anfang Februar auch 

unsere erste Maschine 

aus der Hansestadt 

Hamburg in Richtung 

London Gatwick ab 

24,99 €*, dem damit, 

neben London Luton, 

zweiten Londoner 

Zielfl ughafen ab 

Hamburg. Buchen 

Sie Ihre Flüge auf 

unseren neuen 

Strecken jetzt schon 

unter easyJet.com! 

Sonne, Ski und 

Schneevergnügen 

– mit easyJet auf 

die Piste! 

Keine langen Staus oder Nachtfahrten 

mehr mit dem Auto! Nie mehr mit 

gefrorenen Fingern, entnervt die 

Schneeketten montieren! Ob Schweiz, 

Norditalien oder Frankreich – mit 

easyJet erreichen Sie schnell und 

günstig die spektakulärsten Skigebiete 

in den Alpen. Von Berlin, Düsseldorf 

und Hamburg fl iegen Sie mit uns 

mehrmals täglich nach Basel-Freiburg 

ab 20,99 €*. Vom EuroAirport 

Basel-Freiburg geht es bequem weiter 

mit Bus und Bahn in mehr als 35 

Skiorte vom Berner Oberland übers 

Wallis bis nach Engelberg. Von Berlin 

ab 21,99 €* sind Sie über Genf in 

kürzester Zeit im Savoie oder 

Haute-Savoie. Chamonix, Avoriaz oder 

3-Valleés? Ein spezieller Ski-Shuttle- 

Bus bringt Sie vom Genfer Flughafen 

direkt in Ihr Skigebiet, damit Sie 

unbeschwert nach entspannter Reise 

auf der Piste so richtig durchstarten 

können! Oder fl iegen Sie von Berlin nach 

Mailand ab 20,99 €* und erkunden Sie 

die Skigebiete Norditaliens! Spezielle 

Skiangebote rund um Unterkunft, 

Transport und Equipment fi nden Sie 

auch unter ski.easyJet.com! 

Jetzt neu: Täglich von 

Basel-Freiburg nach 

Porto ab 43,95 CHF* 

Enge Gässchen, Brücken und die bunten 

Häuser am Fluss – Porto zieht sich mit seiner 

malerischen Altstadt terrassenförmig vom 

Ufer des Douro über den Hügel zur Kathedrale 

„Terreira da Sé“ hinauf. Tagsüber von reger 

Betriebsamkeit in den kleinen Lädchen und auf 

dem Markt von „Bolhão“ geprägt, spielt sich das 

abendliche Leben in Ufernähe im Viertel „Ribeira“ 

ab. In restaurierten Altbauten fi nden sich 

moderne Bars, Clubs und Restaurants. Bei einem 

Glas Portwein genießt man in der Dämmerung 

den einzigartigen Blick auf die alten Weinschiffe 

vor den Portweinkellereien am Südufer des 

Flusses. Ganz anderes erleben lassen sich die 

Reize der farbenfrohen Stadt und ihrer Brücken, 

darunter die alte Eisenbahnbrücke „Ponte Maria 

Pia“ von Gustave Eiffel, bei einer Flussfahrt! In 

der „Casa de ló“ früher „Casa Margaridense“ in 

der „Travessa de Cedofeita” gibt’s im 

zauberhaften Ambiente den traditionellen 

Kuchen „Pão de ló“ und allerhand feines Gebäck, 

das nicht nur zum Portwein schmeckt! Wer 

ausgefallene Mode junger, portugiesischer 

Designer sucht, wird in der „Rua Miguel 

Bombarda“ fündig. Wunderschöne Strände 

nördlich und südlich der Stadt sind ideale Ziele 

für Ihren Badeurlaub. Oder gönnen Sie sich doch 

einen Kurztrip in die portugiesische Stadt und 

reisen Sie mit unseren zusätzlichen 

Frequenzen jetzt noch fl exibler und entspannter 

nach Portugal. Fliegen Sie mit easyJet täglich von 

Basel-Freiburg nach Porto ab 43,95 CHF*. 

easyJet Lesetipp 

München City. Mitte der 80er. Jung und laut, mit 

Riesengemüse in engen Spandex-Hosen, ist Llord 

Nakcor, die spiegelverkehrte Rock- und Rollband, 

mit „Hair Metal“ auf dem Weg zum Rock-Olymp! 

In seinem Roman „Haarweg zur Hölle. Ein hart 

gerockter Heimatroman“ schildert Hermann 

Bräuer das Schicksal einer gefeierten Lokalband 

mit größenwahnsinnigem Sänger, den ersten 

Groupies und einem unfähigen Manager von den 

ersten Proben im 

Heizungskeller ihres 

Gymnasiums bis 

zum großen Durchbruch 

in der „Bravo“, 

der sie um ein Haar 

berühmt machen 

soll. Eine urkomische 

Zeitreise in die 80er 

Jahre – der neue 

Ullstein-Roman ist 

ab sofort im Buchhandel 

erhältlich! 

* One-Way inkl. Steuern, Gebühren und Handgepäck, ggf. zuzüglich variabler Gebühren für aufzugebendes Gepäck und Kreditkartenzahlung. Preis nur für ausgewählte Ziele und Flüge.

La maroccothérapie a du bon! 

L’automne vous met 

le moral à zéro ? Il y a 

quelques mois, l’Offi ce 

du Tourisme marocain 

vous proposait avec 

humour de participer à 

une maroccothérapie. 

Allez-y, et retrouvez au 

Maroc des activités que 

Berlin vous 

fait son cinéma 

Berlin, capitale cosmopolite et toujours 

passionnante, va attirer du 11 au 21 février 

2010 plus de 19 000 professionnels du 

cinéma venus de 120 pays pour le Festival 

International du Film de Berlin. Avec plus 

de 200 000 billets vendus, la Berlinale 

n’est pas uniquement le rendez-vous de 

l’industrie cinématographique. Pendant 

deux semaines, l’art, le glamour, les fêtes 

et les affaires se côtoient à la Berlinale. 

Participez à l’événement en réservant bien 

à l’avance. Paris Berlin à partir de 30€ aller 

simple taxes incluses. 

Près de 500 hôtels 

vous attendent 

au Portugal 

Il n’est pas inutile de rappeler qu’en 

5 minutes, vous pouvez organiser un 

week-end et toutes ses prestations sur 

le site easyJet.com ! Essayez donc avec 

le Portugal, une sélection de 500 hôtels 

et des vols à destination de Lisbonne, 

Porto et Faro au départ de Paris et Lyon. 

Vous partirez à la recherche du trésor des 

Templiers à bord de la voiture que vous 

aurez préalablement louée …sur notre 

site. Avion, hôtels, location de voiture en 

quelques minutes - simplifi ez-vous la vie ! 

vous n’auriez pas eu 

l’idée de pratiquer, le 

soleil et le charme 

en plus : Agadir et la 

région du Souss vous 

proposent trois golfs 

grandioses. Jouez 

dans une atmosphère 

féérique entre 

Noël 

tamariniers, eucalyptus 

et bougainvilliers. Et si 

vous n’aimez pas le golf, 

tout le pays s’offre à vous 

avec des vols au départ de 

Paris et Lyon. Casablanca, 

Marrakech et Tanger 

à partir de 41€ aller 

simple, taxes incluses. 

Bientôt les fêtes et pas encore d’idées 

cadeaux ? Pour allier magie de Noël et 

shopping unique, pensez aux bons plans 

easyJet ! Au départ de Genève, nous 

vous proposons le mythique Mercatino di 

Natale, piazza Navona à Rome - rendezvous 

des épicuriens italophiles -, le Marché 

du quartier de Tivoli, à Copenhague – avec 

sa magnifi que fête foraine style 1900, qui 

émerveillera petits et grands -, ou encore 

une dégustation des fameuses Christmas 

Beers d’Edimbourg, ce dès CHF 30.95.- Et 

pour célébrer la nouvelle année ? Assez 

des fêtes déjà vues, ruez-vous également 

sur les offres easyJet et créer votre 31 

sur mesure ! Douze coups caliente à 

Madrid, mille et une nuits mystérieuses à 

Marrakech ou psychédélique party à Berlin 

dès CHF 33.95.-... Osez le changement ! 

DERNIÉRES INFOS | FRANÇAIS 

A320 

Nouveau : meilleures disponibilités, 

fréquence accrue, avec un nouvel avion 

basé à Cointrin, voler au départ de 

Genève devient encore plus facile ! 

Nous sommes fi ers de vous présenter 

notre dernier-né : l’Airbus A320, fi ne 

fl eur de l’aéronautique française, acquis 

dans le but de mieux desservir la Riviera 

et de répondre à la demande croissante 

des voyageurs. Avec désormais plus de 

350 employés sur sa base de Genève 

Cointrin, nous rendons encore plus aisés 

tous vos déplacements en Europe. A la 

clé ? De nouvelles destinations depuis 

Genève ainsi que l’amélioration du trafi c 

déjà en place. Affaire à suivre dans les 

prochaines semaines ! Des prestations 

toujours plus fl exibles et performantes, 

un personnel à l’écoute, une 

optimisation constante des appareils, 

c’est ça le service easyJet. 

Budapest 

Cap sur Budapest pour un séjour 

épicé ! Liszt et Bartok vous fascinent ? 

Filez au sublime Opéra National. 

Besoin de douceur? Rendez-vous 

chez Gerbeaud pour une pâtisserie 

inoubliable. Envie de vous chouchouter 

? Les thermes vaporeux vous rendront 

l’âme sereine sous un épiderme de 

bébé. Et pour les noctambules ? 

Errances sur les charmantes terrasses 

de la ville, vin de Tokaj et violons 

tziganes. Bref, des constructions 

ottomanes au château de Buda en 

passant par la Grande Synagogue, 

l’hétérogénéité de la culture hongroise 

ne cessera de vous surprendre. Et 

après la séance shopping au marché de 

Vasarcsarnok, une seule pensée vous 

animera : y revenir ! 

Profi tez de nos offres exceptionnelles: 

jusqu’à six vols par semaine Genève 

– Budapest, aller simple dès 43.95.- CHF ! 


NEWS | ENGLISH 

Our new destination in Germany – Dusseldorf! 

We are continually 

looking for new and 

exciting destinations 

to fl y to and have 

recently announced 

another German 

addition to the family 

– Dusseldorf. This will 

be the sixth German 

destination fl own to 


from the UK joining 

Berlin, Munich, Hamburg, 

Cologne, and 

Dortmund. 

There will be a daily 

service to Dusseldorf 

from London Gatwick 

to connect customers 

for both business 

and leisure. Located 

on the Rhine river, 

Dusseldorf is known 

to be an important 

economic centre and 

hosts many large 

trade and fashion 

fairs. 

The city is also well 

known for its modern 

easyJet - Best European 

Budget Airline at the 2009 

World Travel Awards. 

The World Travel Awards, 

described by the Wall Street 

Journal as the ‘Oscars’ of the 

global travel and tourism industry, 

revealed who are the ‘best of the 

best’ in Europe at an event in 

Portugal in October. Increasingly, 

the awards are known as raising 

the bar for ultimate customer 

service and overall business 

performance. Growing numbers 

of travel companies, airlines, 

operators and resorts compete 

to walk away with one of the 

coveted titles, which are decided 

upon by thousands of votes by 

travel professionals from 183,000 

travel agencies, tour and transport 

companies and tourism 

organisations in over 160 countries 

across the globe. 

easyJet beat out Aer Lingus, 

Air Berlin, BMI Baby, Clickair, 

Condor, Monarch to this years title. 

More information about 

the awards can be found at 

worldtravelawards.com 

and contemporary art 

scene within Germany 

including The art axis 

with its high-class 

museums, and the 

renowned Academy 

of Arts. There is also a 

strong theatre scene 

with the German Opera 

on the Rhine, the 

Tonhalle Düsseldorf 

(concert hall) and 

numerous theatres, 

cabarets and revues. 

Düsseldorf has 

a wide and diverse 

range of architectural 

styles that have 

become part of the 

trademark of this 

city on the Rhine. 

Renowned architects 

from the Art Nouveau 

period like Josef Maria 

Olbrich and Peter 

Behrens, have had 

their infl uences whilst 

more contemporary 

counterparts 

like Frank O. Gehry, 

Claude Vasconi and 

David Chipperfi eld, 

have helped to shape 

the MediaHarbour. 

The Rhine embankment 

promenade provides 

a picturesque 

walk along the river 

Fancy a ski lift? 

It’s that time of year 

again to start thing about 

escaping to a wonderful 

winter wonderland and get 

the best of early season 

snow!* With up to 47 

fl ights a day to Geneva, 

plus fl ights to ski hotspots 

all over Europe, easyJet 

is the perfect choice for a 

and the many eateries 

and shops will keep 

you entertained. 

Services from 

London Gatwick to 

Dusseldorf will 

commence on 2 

February 2010 with 

single fares from 

£26.99 inc. taxes.* 

Book online 

at easyJet.com. 

fl exible ski trip this winter. 

Our cheap winter 

fl ights, accommodation, 

lift passes, transfers 

and more from the UK 

to the snow are on sale 

now for travel until the 

end of March 2010. 

Book yours now at 

easyJet.com 

*Prices correct as at 29 October 2009. For travel 2 February 2009 to 27 March 2010.

As part of our 

commitment to 

sustainability, 

we are proud 

to announce… 

★ The Copenhagen 

Communiqué on Climate 

Change is a progressive 

statement by leading global 

businesses in support of a 

new international climate 

change deal ahead of the 

climate change conference. 

It has already secured 

the support of over 500 

companies, ranging from the 

world’s largest companies 

Did you know? 

*based on the same aircraft type fl ying the same route 

**164g of CO2 for every km (car) and 95.7g of CO2 for every passenger km (fl ight) 

and best known brands, to 

Small and Medium sized 

Enterprises (SMEs). 

You can fi nd out more about 

the communiqué at www. 

copenhagencommunique.com 

ECO | CREDENTIALS 

★ Our aircraft emit 22% less CO2 per passenger km than a traditional airline* 

★ Passengers produce less CO2 per km than the average car** 

★ You can limit the carbon footprint of your next fl ight thanks to our carbon 

offsetting scheme 

★ For more details visit www.easyJet.com 


GULLIVER | BEAR 

Bear 

Necessity 

WIN 

FREE 

FLIGHTS 

Gulliver could win his owner a pair of 

free fl ights from his travel photos. The 

intrepid bear has a hectic schedule, 

as you can see below, so the 

competition is on to get snapping. 

1 “It wasn’t me guv, I swear! Let me 

out of here!” Alcatraz, San Francisco, 

the Buckley family 

2 “I could swim that, easy! I just 

don’t want to get my outfi t wet…” 

Széchenyi Chain Bridge, Budapest, 

Romvári Gergely 

3 “Life’s a beach for this over-dressed 

bear.” Mauritius, Leticia Delgado 

4 “Good thing you don’t need to 

walk like an Egyptian when you’re 

visiting the pyramids.” Cairo, Helen 

and Michael Morton 

5 “This bear is a football fanatic. 

But orange is the only colour for him!” 

Camp Nou, Barcelona, Daniel Guest 

and Hayley Piper 

And This Month’s 

Winner Is… 

6 + 7 Gulliver has fun exploring 

and making some new friends 

in the beautiful Moroccan city of 

Chefchaouen, near Tangier. “Peek-ablue 

– I see you!” Rute Grego Vieira 

How to Win! 

Send your snaps of Gulliver on his travels to the email below and every two months, an expert panel of bear judges 

will pick out a winner. Gulliver costs £10/€12.50 onboard your fl ight. Buy the bear and then create his wardrobe. 

Current outfi ts include a pilot and a summer surfi ng dude for just £6/€7.50. He’s even got his own Facebook page! 

Email your pics to: gulliverbearonhistravels@easyJet.com Winners will be notifi ed by email 


WINNER! 

7 

6 

3 

1 

4 

2 

5

Make it a winter to remember. 

Fly easyJet to Europe’s most beautiful cities for the holidays. 

Before you go, check out TripAdvisor for more than 30 million traveller reviews 

and opinions on the best places to stay, eat, and play. 

Brussels in December is “magical - 

cold & frosty, with flurries of 

snow. The Grand Place had 

wonderful Christmas decorations 

and amazing illuminations.” 

– TripAdvisor Member 

Brussels 

“Brilliant ski hotel located 

within 500 metres of the 

gondola and the ski shop. 

For a long weekend with 

teenage children, it’s a 

hidden gem.” 

– TripAdvisor Member 

Zell am See/Kaprun, near Salzburg 

tripadvisor.com | tripadvisor.co.uk | tripadvisor.com.br | tripadvisor.de 

tripadvisor.es | tripadvisor.fr | tripadvisor.ie | tripadvisor.it 

nl.tripadvisor.com | tripadvisor.se 

Find TripAdvisor hotel reviews at www.hotels.easyJet.com 

Vienna 

“I love it here during 

Christmastime. You can get 

some fantastic wines, cakes, 

and cookies from any stand. 

The live advent calendar is 

something to see!” 

– TripAdvisor Member

WHERE WE FLY | NETWORK 

ABERDEEN 

London Luton. 

AGADIR 

London Gatwick. 

AJACCIO (CORSICA) 

Geneva, London Gatwick, 

Paris Charles De Gaulle. 

ALICANTE 

Basel-Mulhouse, Belfast, 

Bristol, East Midlands, 

Edinburgh, Geneva, Glasgow, 

Liverpool, London Gatwick, 

London Luton, London Stansted, 

Manchester, Newcastle. 

ALMERIA 


AMSTERDAM 


Bristol, Edinburgh, Geneva, 


London Luton, London 

Stansted, Madrid, Milan 

Malpensa, Rome Fiumicino. 

ASTURIAS 

Geneva, London Stansted. 

ATHENS 

Berlin Schoenefeld, London 

Gatwick, London Luton, 

Manchester, Milan Malpensa, 

Paris Orly, Rome Fiumicino 

BARCELONA 


Berlin Schoenefeld, Bristol, 

Dortmund, East Midlands, 

Geneva, Liverpool, London 


London Stansted, Lyon, 

Milan Malpensa, Newcastle, 

Paris Orly. 

BARI 

Milan Malpensa, 

Rome Fiumicino. 

BASEL-MULHOUSE 

Alicante, Amsterdam, 

Barcelona, Berlin Schoenefeld, 

Bordeaux, Cagliari, 

Düsseldorf, Hamburg, Istanbul, 

Lisbon, London Gatwick, 

Madrid, Malaga, Marrakech, 

Naples, Nice, Olbia, Porto, 

Rome Ciampino. 

BASTIA (CORSICA) 

Bristol, Geneva, London 

Gatwick, Lyon, Manchester, 


BELFAST 


Barcelona, Bristol, Edinburgh, 

Faro, Geneva, Glasgow, Ibiza, 

Krakow, Liverpool, London 


London Stansted, Malaga, 

Newcastle, Majorca, Nice, Paris 

Charles De Gaulle, Prague. 

BELFAST CITY 

London Luton 

BERLIN SCHOENEFELD 

Athens, Barcelona, 

Basel-Mulhouse, Bristol, 

Brussels, Budapest, 

Cagliari, Copenhagen, Crete 

(Heraklion), Dubrovnik, 

Geneva, Glasgow, Ibiza, Lisbon, 


London Luton, Madrid, Malaga, 

Milan Malpensa, Naples, 

Nice, Olbia, Majorca, Paris 

Orly, Pisa, Rome Ciampino, 

Thessaloniki, Venice. 

BIARRITZ 

London Gatwick, Lyon, Paris 

Charles De Gaulle. 

BILBAO 

Ibiza, London Stansted. 

BIRMINGHAM 

Grenoble, Geneva. 

BODRUM 


BORDEAUX 

Basel-Mulhouse, Bristol, 

Geneva, Liverpool, London 

Luton, Lyon. 

BOURNEMOUTH 

Geneva. 

BRINDISI 

Milan Malpensa. 

BRISTOL 


Barcelona, Bastia, Belfast, 

Berlin Schoenefeld, Bordeaux, 

Corfu, Edinburgh, Faro, 

Geneva, Glasgow, Grenoble, 

Ibiza, Innsbruck, Inverness, 

Krakow, La Rochelle, Lisbon, 

Madeira, Madrid, Malaga, 

Marseille, Menorca, Milan 

Malpensa, Murcia, Newcastle, 


Charles De Gaulle, Pisa, 

Prague, Rome Ciampino, 

Toulouse, Split. 

BRUSSELS 

Berlin Schoenefeld, Geneva, 

Lyon, Milan Malpensa, Nice. 

BUCHAREST 

Madrid, Milan Malpensa. 

BUDAPEST 

Berlin Schoenefeld, Dortmund, 


London Luton, Paris Orly. 

CAGLIARI (SARDINIA) 

Basel, Berlin Shoenefeld, 

Geneva, London Luton, 


CASABLANCA 

Lyon, Madrid, Paris Charles 

De Gaulle. 

CATANIA (SICILY) 


COLOGNE/BONN 


COPENHAGEN 


London Gatwick, London 

Stansted, Manchester, 


CORFU 

Bristol, London Gatwick, 

Manchester. 

CRETE (HERAKLION) 

Berlin Schoenefeld, 

London Gatwick, Manchester, 


DALAMAN 

London Gatwick, Manchester. 

DORTMUND 

Barcelona, Budapest, Krakow, 

London Luton, Thessaloniki. 

DUBROVNIK 



Milan Malpensa, Paris Orly. 

DUSSELDORF 

Basel-Mulhouse, London 

Gatwick, Rome Fiumicino 

EAST MIDLANDS 

Alicante, Barcelona, Faro, 

Geneva, Ibiza, Malaga, 

Majorca, Nice, Prague, Venice. 

EDINBURGH 

Alicante, Amsterdam, Belfast, 

Bristol, Geneva, Krakow, 


Luton, London Stansted, 

Lyon, Madrid, Milan Malpensa, 

Munich, Majorca, Nice, 


FARO 

Belfast, Bristol, East Midlands, 

Glasgow, Liverpool, London 


London Stansted, Newcastle, 

Paris Orly. 

FUERTEVENTURA 

Liverpool, London 

Stansted, Madrid. 

GENEVA 

Ajaccio (Corsica), Alicante, 

Amsterdam, Asturias, 

Barcelona, Bastia, Belfast, 



Birmingham, Bordeaux, 

Bournemouth, Bristol, 

Brussels, Budapest, Cagliari, 

Copenhagen, Dubrovnik, East 

Midlands, Edinburgh, Glasgow, 

Gran Canaria, Ibiza, Lisbon, 



Stansted, Madrid, Malaga, 

Manchester, Marrakesh, 

Nantes, Naples, Newcastle, 


Orly, Porto, Rome Ciampino, 

Sharm El Sheikh, Split, 

Stockholm, Toulouse. 

GIBRALTAR 


GLASGOW 

Alicante, Belfast, Berlin 

Schoenefeld, Bristol, Faro, 

Geneva, Ibiza, London Gatwick, 


Stansted, Malaga, Majorca, 


GRAN CANARIA 

Geneva, London Gatwick. 

GRENOBLE 

Birmingham, Bristol, London 

Gatwick, London Luton. 

HAMBURG 



HELSINKI 


HURGHADA 


IBIZA 

Belfast, Berlin Schoenefeld, 

Bilbao, Bristol, East Midlands, 

Geneva, Glasgow, Liverpool, 



Lyon, Madrid, Milan Malpensa, 

Newcastle, Paris Charles 

De Gaulle. 

INNSBRUCK 

Bristol, Liverpool, 


INVERNESS 

Bristol, London Gatwick, 

London Luton. 

ISTANBUL 



JERSEY 

Liverpool. 

KRAKOW 

Belfast, Bristol, Dortmund, 

Edinburgh, Liverpool, 


Luton, Newcastle, Paris 

Charles De Gaulle. 

LAMEZIA 

Milan Malpensa, 


LANZAROTE 


Madrid. 

LARNACA (CYPRUS) 


LA ROCHELLE 

Bristol, London Gatwick. 

LISBON 

Basel-Mulhouse, Berlin 

Schoenefeld, Bristol, Geneva, 


London Luton, Lyon, Madeira, 

Madrid, Milan Malpensa, 

Paris Charles de Gaulle, 


LIVERPOOL 


Barcelona, Belfast, 


Bordeaux, Dubrovnik, Faro, 

Fuerteventura, Geneva, Ibiza, 

Innsbruck, Jersey, Krakow, 

Lanzarote, Lisbon, Madrid, 

Malaga, Menorca, Naples, 

Nice, Majorca, Paris Charles 

De Gaulle. 

LJUBLJANA 

London Stansted. 

LONDON GATWICK 

Agadir, Ajaccio (Corsica), 

Alicante, Almeria, Amsterdam, 

Athens, Barcelona, 


Schoenefeld, Belfast, Biarritz, 

Bastia (Corsica), Bodrum, 

Budapest, Cologne/Bonn, 

Copenhagen, Corfu, Crete 

(Heraklion), Dalaman, 

Dubrovnik, Düsseldorf, 

Edinburgh, Faro, Geneva, 

Gibraltar, Glasgow, Gran 

Canaria, Grenoble, Hamburg, 

Helsinki, Hurghada, Ibiza, 

Innsbruck, Istanbul, Inverness, 

Krakow, Lanzarote, Larnaca 

(Cyprus), La Rochelle, 

Lisbon, Lyon, Madeira, 

Madrid, Majorca, Malaga, 

Malta, Marrakech, Marseille, 

Menorca, Milan Linate, Milan 

Malpensa, Montpellier, Munich, 

Murcia, Mykonos, Naples, 

Nice, Olbia, Palermo, Paphos 

(Cyprus), Pisa, Porto, Prague, 

Rhodes, Rome Fiumicino, 

Salzburg, Santorini, Sharm El 

Sheikh, Sofi a, Split, Tenerife, 

Thessaloniki, Toulouse, 

Valencia, Venice, Vienna, Zurich. 

LONDON LUTON 

Aberdeen, Alicante, 

Amsterdam, Athens, Barcelona, 

Belfast, Belfast City, Berlin 

Schoenefeld, Bordeaux, 

Budapest, Cagliari, Dortmund, 

Edinburgh, Faro, Geneva, 

Glasgow, Grenoble, Hamburg, 

Ibiza, Inverness, Istanbul, 

Krakow, Lisbon, Madrid, 

Malaga, Milan Malpensa, 

Majorca, Menorca, Montpellier, 

Nice, Paris Charles De Gaulle, 

Paphos (Cyprus), Pisa, Sharm 

El Sheikh, Tel Aviv, Turin, Zurich. 

LONDON STANSTED 

Alicante, Amsterdam, Asturias, 

Barcelona, Belfast, Bilbao, 

Copenhagen, Edinburgh, 

Faro, Fuerteventura, Geneva, 

Glasgow, Ibiza, Ljubljana, Lyon, 

Malaga, Madeira, Munich, 

Naples, Newcastle, Nice, 

Majorca, Prague, Tallinn. 

LYON 

Barcelona, Bastia, Biarritz, 

Bordeaux, Brussels, 

Casablanca, Edinburgh, Ibiza, 


London Stansted, Madrid, 

Marrakech, Nantes, Olbia, 

Porto, Rome Ciampino, 

Toulouse, Venice. 

MADEIRA 

Bristol, Lisbon, London 

Gatwick, London Stansted. 

MADRID 

Amsterdam, Basel-Mulhouse, 


Bucharest, Casablanca, 

Edinburgh, Fuerteventura, 

Geneva, Ibiza, Lanzarote, 

Lisbon, Liverpool, London 


Lyon, Marrakech, Milan 

Malpensa, Paris Charles De 

Gaulle, Rome Ciampino, 

Sofi a, Tangier, Toulouse. 

MAJORCA 

Belfast, Berlin Schoenefeld, 

Bristol, East Midlands, 

Edinburgh, Geneva, 



London Stansted, Milan 

Malpensa, Newcastle. 

MALAGA 



East Midlands, Geneva, 



London Stansted, Manchester, 

Milan Malpensa, Newcastle. 

MALTA 

London Gatwick, Manchester, 

Newcastle. 

MANCHESTER 

Alicante, Athens, Bastia, 

Copenhagen, Corfu, Crete 

(Heraklion), Dalaman , Paphos 

(Cyprus), Geneva, Malaga, 

Malta, Marrakech, Munich, 

Sofi a, Tenerife. 

MARRAKECH 

Basel-Mulhouse, Geneva, 

London Gatwick, Madrid, 

Manchester, Milan Malpensa, 

Lyon, Paris Charles De Gaulle. 

MARSEILLE 

Bristol, London Gatwick. 

MENORCA 

Bristol, Liverpool, 


Luton, Newcastle. 

MILAN LINATE 

London Gatwick, Paris Orly. 

MILAN MALPENSA 

Amsterdam, Athens, 

Barcelona, Bari, Berlin 

Schoenefeld, Brindisi, Bristol, 

Bucharest, Brussels, Cagliari, 

Catania, Copenhagen, Crete 

(Heraklion), Dubrovnik, 

Edinburgh, Ibiza, Lamezia, 


London Luton, Madrid, 

Malaga, Majorca, Marrakech, 

Mykonos, Naples, Olbia, 

Palermo, Paris Charles 

De Gaulle, Prague, Rhodes, 

Rome Fiumicino, Sofi a, 

Split, Stockholm. 

MONTPELLIER 

London Gatwick, 

London Luton 

MUNICH 

Edinburgh, London Gatwick, 

London Stansted, Manchester. 

MURCIA 

Bristol, London 

Gatwick, Newcastle. 

MYKONOS 



NANTES 

Geneva, Lyon. 

NAPLES 


Schoenefeld, Geneva, 



Malpensa, Paris Orly, Venice. 

NEWCASTLE 

Alicante, Barcelona, Belfast, 

Bristol, Faro, Geneva, Ibiza, 

Krakow, London Stansted, 

Malaga, Malta, Majorca, 

Menorca, Murcia, Paris 

Charles De Gaulle, Prague, 

Rome Ciampino. 

NICE 



Brussels, East Midlands, 

Edinburgh, Geneva, Liverpool, 



Paris Charles De Gaulle, 

Paris Orly. 

OLBIA 


Schoenefeld, Bristol, 


Lyon, Milan Malpensa. 

PALERMO 

London Gatwick, Milan 

Malpensa, Rome Fiumicino. 

PAPHOS (CYPRUS) 


Luton, Manchester. 

PARIS CHARLES 

DE GAULLE 

Ajaccio (Corsica), Bastia, 

Biarritz, Belfast, Bristol, 

Casablanca, Edinburgh, 

Glasgow, Ibiza, Krakow, Lisbon, 

Liverpool, London Luton, 

Madrid, Marrakech, Milan 

Malpensa, Newcastle, Nice, 

Porto, Tangier, Venice. 

PARIS ORLY 

Athens, Barcelona, Berlin 

Schoenefeld, Budapest, 

Dubrovnik, Faro, Geneva, Milan 

Linate, Naples, Nice, Pisa, 

Rome Ciampino, Toulouse. 

PISA 



Luton, Paris Orly. 

PORTO 

Basel-Mulhouse, Geneva, 

London Gatwick, Lyon, 


PRAGUE 

Belfast, Bristol, East 

Midlands, London Gatwick, 


Malpensa, Newcastle. 

RHODES 



ROME CIAMPINO 


Schoenefeld, Bristol, 

Geneva, Lyon, Madrid, 

Newcastle, Paris Orly. 

ROME FIUMICINO 

Amsterdam, Athens, Bari, 

Düsseldorf, Milan Malpensa, 

Lamezia, Lisbon, London 

Gatwick, Palermo, Venice. 

SALZBURG 


SANTORINI 


SHARM EL SHEIKH 


London Luton. 

SOFIA 

Madrid, Manchester, Milan 

Malpensa, London Gatwick. 

SPLIT 

Bristol, Geneva, London 

Gatwick, Milan Malpensa. 

STOCKHOLM 

Geneva, Milan Malpensa. 

TALLINN 

London Stansted. 

TANGIER 

Madrid, Paris Charles De Gaulle. 

TEL AVIV 

London Luton. 

TENERIFE 

London Gatwick, Manchester. 

THESSALONIKI 

Berlin Schoenefeld, Dortmund, 


TOULOUSE 

Bristol, Geneva, London Gatwick, 

Lyon, Madrid, Paris Orly. 

TURIN 

London Luton. 

VALENCIA 


VENICE 

Berlin Schoenefeld, East 

Midlands, London Gatwick, 

Lyon, Naples, Paris Charles 

De Gaulle, Rome Fiumicino. 

VIENNA 


ZURICH 

London Gatwick, London Luton.

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CANARY 

ISLANDS 

Fuerteventura 

Tenerife 

South 

Gran 

Canaria 

MADEIRA 

Madeira (Funchal) 

Lanzarote 

Agadir 

Lisbon 

Marrakech 

NEW 

ROUTE 

Porto 

Faro 

PORTUGAL 

Gibraltar 

Tangier 

Casablanca 

Asturias 

MOROCCO 

Belfast City 

Edinburgh 

Glasgow 

Belfast UK Newcastle 

DENMARK 

IRELAND 

Bilbao 

Madrid 

Malaga 

NEW 

ROUTE 

SPAIN 

Jersey 

Montpellier 

BELGIUM 

NETHERLANDS 

SWE 

NEW 

ROUTE 

Berlin 

Dortmund 

Düsseldorf 

GERMANY 

Paris CDG 

Paris Orly 

Munich 

Nantes 

Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg 

La Rochelle 

FRANCE 

Geneva 

Zurich 

SWITZERLAND 

Murcia 

Almeria 

Liverpool 

Valencia 

Alicante 

Manchester 

Birmingham 

Bournemouth 

Biarritz 

Bordeaux 

Barcelona 

Inverness 

Aberdeen 

Bristol Stansted 

Luton 

Gatwick 

East Midlands 

Amsterdam 

Brussels Int 

Lyon 

Grenoble 

Toulouse 

Marseille 

Menorca 

Majorca 

Ibiza 

Nice 

Bastia 

Ajaccio 

Cologne/Bonn 

Olbia 

Cagliari 

Hamburg 

Milan MXP 

Milan LIN Venice 

Turin ITALY 

Pisa 

Rome 

Ciampino 

S 

Copen 

CZ 

In

tockholm 

DEN 

hagen 

Prague 

ECH REPUBLIC 

Vienna 

Salzburg 

AUSTRIA 

nsbruck 

SLOVENIA 

Palermo 

Malta 

CROATIA 

Split 

Rome 

Fiumicino 

Ljubljana 

Naples 

Lamezia 

POLAND 

Catania 

Krakow 

HUNGARY 

FINLAND 

Budapest 

Dubrovnik 

Bari 

Brindisi 

Helsinki 

ESTONIA 

Corfu 

Tallinn 

ROMANIA 

BULGARIA 

Sofi a 

Thessaloniki 

GREECE 

Athens 

Bucharest 

Mykonos 

Santorini 

Heraklion 

Bodrum 

Istanbul 

Dalaman 

TURKEY 

Rhodes 

EGYPT 

WHERE WE FLY | NETWORK 

EVERY 

DROP’S A 

HOLIDAY! 

Create your ideal 

holiday or short break to 

anywhere in our network 

with easyJet Holidays. 

easyJet.com 

– holidays made 

simple 

Paphos 

NEW 

ROUTE 

Larnaca 

Tel Aviv 

Hurghada 

ISRAEL 

Sharm 

El Sheikh

THE BIG SALE 

STARTS 


Off UK High Street RRPs 

17th 

DECEMBER 

Boutique 

THE 

DECEMBER - JANUARY 2010 

& Bistro 

BIG 

SALE 

See Boutique & Bistro 

for even more 

ways to treat yourself! 

While stocks last. All sale offers are subject to availability. Products may vary.

THE BIG SALE 

STARTS 


Off UK High Street RRPs 

17th 

DECEMBER 

Boutique 

THE 

DECEMBER - JANUARY 2010 

& Bistro 

BIG 

SALE 

See Boutique & Bistro 

for even more 

ways to treat yourself! 

While stocks last. All sale offers are subject to availability. Products may vary.

COVER OF THE MONTH 

TIME 

FOR 

GIFTS 

Go to the House of watches in Geneva, buy a watch and 

have a Merry Christmas! 

See all portraits on www.lmdh.ch/bethecover.html 

RAILWAY STATION 

LAKE OF GENEVA 

24, RUE DU CENDRIER · GENEVA · SWITZERLAND · T +41 22 732 09 54 · WWW.LMDH.CH

december-2009

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