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DESERT<br />

ADVENTURES<br />

DISCOVER<br />

JORDAN’S<br />

WILD SIDE<br />

MARCH <strong>2011</strong><br />

*YOUR FREE COPY TO<br />

TAKE AWAY WITH YOU<br />

TRAVELLER<br />

EMPIRE<br />

OF THE SUN<br />

SPAIN’S SOLAR<br />

POWERED FUTURE<br />

GO LARGE IN<br />

GOTHENBURG<br />

A TASTE OF SWEDEN’S<br />

COFFEE CAPITAL


www. giorgioarmanibeauty.com


The new Essence of Joy


COVER ILLUSTRATION © PIETARI POSTI/PEKKAFINLAND.FI | PHOTO © MATTHEW TELLER<br />

MARCH <strong>2011</strong><br />

CONTENTS<br />

SKI ISSUE<br />

Boutique B t & Bistro<br />

January - April <strong>2011</strong><br />

Better<br />

together<br />

Great products to share<br />

SAVE MONEY<br />

WHILE YOU FLY<br />

Browse through<br />

Boutique &<br />

Bistro today and<br />

you’ll be amazed at<br />

the fantastic deals<br />

and off ers you can<br />

buy onboard.<br />

If you are hitting<br />

the slopes, take<br />

advantage of our<br />

ski products range<br />

(pages 4–5), and<br />

save money when<br />

you buy the latest<br />

fashion snood with<br />

the Bloc Ski goggles.<br />

Gulliver, our very<br />

own bear, is ready<br />

for the slopes in<br />

his snowboarding<br />

outfi t. Buy the<br />

bear and then buy<br />

his wardrobe.<br />

Page 12 has the<br />

biggest cosmetic<br />

brands and all the<br />

simple classics.<br />

Save time and hire<br />

your ski equipment<br />

onboard before<br />

hitting the slopes.<br />

This NEW service not<br />

only saves you time<br />

but is also cheaper<br />

than buying in-resort.<br />

The back cover<br />

is packed with our<br />

great money-saving<br />

meal deals from our<br />

Bistro range.<br />

Enjoy saving<br />

onboard today!<br />

48<br />

FEATURES<br />

TRAVELLER<br />

48 Desert<br />

Adventure<br />

Discover Jordan’s<br />

carefully preserved<br />

natural beauty<br />

58 A Bit of<br />

Piste and Quiet<br />

Get away from it all<br />

on a cross-country<br />

skiing trip<br />

64 The Algarve’s<br />

Unseen City<br />

Take the time to<br />

enjoy Faro’s often<br />

overlooked appeal<br />

68 Beyond<br />

the Souks<br />

In search of the<br />

real Marrakech<br />

80 Shooting<br />

Galleries<br />

Zürich’s worldbeating<br />

art<br />

institutions<br />

86 Solar Flair<br />

Solar thermal<br />

energy promises<br />

a bright future<br />

92 Knit Where?<br />

The fashion house<br />

inspired by London,<br />

Paris and Edinburgh<br />

MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 5


MARCH <strong>2011</strong><br />

CONTENTS<br />

THE BUZZ<br />

11 The coming month in pictures<br />

14 Gossip from across the network<br />

17 Amsterdam in bloom<br />

18 The world’s top snow athletes hit Tignes<br />

20 Punk is alive and spitting in Berlin<br />

22 Exploring the Channel Islands<br />

24 A new way to see the Austrian Alps<br />

26 St Patrick’s Day in Belfast<br />

28 Hotel news, reviews and off ers<br />

30 Book ahead and don’t miss out<br />

33 Join the onion eaters for a Catalan calçot<br />

34 Take the ultimate coff ee break in Sweden<br />

39 Open the menu on Italy’s culinary capital<br />

106 Route map and destination guides<br />

LAST WORD<br />

183 Meet the crew<br />

184 Passenger info<br />

186 España<br />

187 Italia<br />

188 Suisse/Schweiz<br />

189 Deutschland<br />

190 France<br />

191 UK<br />

192 Business travel<br />

194 Glaswegian comedian Des McLean<br />

6 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />

22<br />

33<br />

34<br />

EDITORIAL & ART<br />

Editor Steven Watson<br />

Art Director Neil Smith<br />

Deputy Editor Claire Martin<br />

Destinations Editor Amy Dennis<br />

Picture Editor Lisa Jacobs<br />

Executive Creative Director Michael Keating<br />

Fashion Editor Nino Bauti<br />

Sub-Editor Matt Glasby<br />

Destinations Sub-Editor Jo Williams<br />

Production Manager Antonia Ferraro<br />

easyJet Brand Livery Executive<br />

(General Contact for Magazine) Natalie Yeung<br />

Flight Bookings easyJet.com<br />

ADVERTISING<br />

Group Publishing Director Mark Duke<br />

Publisher Phil Castle<br />

Associate Publisher Tara Brady<br />

European Sales Team Sheenagh Baxter-Martin<br />

Betty Encinales, Manuela Festa,<br />

Nishan Gumani, Katja Kunka,<br />

Mahmoud Nedjai, Darren Paternoster<br />

Paris Offi ce (Advertising) IMM<br />

Tel: +33 (0)140 130 030<br />

INK<br />

CEO Jeff rey O’Rourke<br />

Deputy Editorial Director Andrew Humphreys<br />

Chief Operating Offi cer Hugh Godsal<br />

Publishing Director Simon Leslie<br />

easyJet TRAVELLER is published<br />

on behalf of easyJet by Ink<br />

141–143 Shoreditch High Street, London, E1 6JE<br />

Advertising Tel: +44 (0)20 7613 8796,<br />

Fax: +44 (0)20 7613 6985<br />

Editorial Tel: +44 (0)20 7613 6945<br />

Email info@ink-global.com<br />

ink-global.com, goferslogistics.com<br />

© Ink. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved.<br />

No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part<br />

without the prior written permission of the copyright holder.<br />

All prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions<br />

expressed in easyJet Traveller are not necessarily those of easyJet,<br />

and easyJet does not accept responsibility for advertising content.<br />

Any pictures or transparencies supplied are at the owner’s risk.<br />

Any mention of easyJet or use of the easyJet logo by any advertiser<br />

in this publication does not imply endorsement of that company,<br />

or its products or services by easyJet Airline Company.<br />

THIS MAGAZINE<br />

IS PRINTED ON 100%<br />

RECYCLED PAPER<br />

minus<br />

52%<br />

CO 2<br />

TRAVELLER<br />

PHOTOS © AXIOM, TIM WHITE


MARCH <strong>2011</strong><br />

CONTENTS<br />

THE BUZZ<br />

11 The coming month in pictures<br />

14 Gossip from across the network<br />

17 Amsterdam in bloom<br />

18 The world’s top snow athletes hit Tignes<br />

20 Punk is alive and spitting in Berlin<br />

22 Exploring the Channel Islands<br />

24 A new way to see the Austrian Alps<br />

26 St Patrick’s Day in Belfast<br />

28 Hotel news, reviews and off ers<br />

30 Book ahead and don’t miss out<br />

33 Join the onion eaters for a Catalan calçot<br />

34 Take the ultimate coff ee break in Sweden<br />

39 Open the menu on Italy’s culinary capital<br />

106 Route map and destination guides<br />

LAST WORD<br />

183 Meet the crew<br />

184 Passenger info<br />

186 España<br />

187 Italia<br />

188 Suisse/Schweiz<br />

189 Deutschland<br />

190 France<br />

191 UK<br />

192 Business travel<br />

194 Glaswegian comedian Des McLean<br />

6 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />

22<br />

33<br />

34<br />

EDITORIAL & ART<br />

Editor Steven Watson<br />

Art Director Neil Smith<br />

Deputy Editor Claire Martin<br />

Destinations Editor Amy Dennis<br />

Picture Editor Lisa Jacobs<br />

Executive Creative Director Michael Keating<br />

Fashion Editor Nino Bauti<br />

Sub-Editor Matt Glasby<br />

Destinations Sub-Editor Jo Williams<br />

Production Manager Antonia Ferraro<br />

easyJet Brand Livery Executive<br />

(General Contact for Magazine) Natalie Yeung<br />

Flight Bookings easyJet.com<br />

ADVERTISING<br />

Group Publishing Director Mark Duke<br />

Publisher Phil Castle<br />

Associate Publisher Tara Brady<br />

European Sales Team Sheenagh Baxter-Martin<br />

Betty Encinales, Manuela Festa,<br />

Nishan Gumani, Katja Kunka,<br />

Mahmoud Nedjai, Darren Paternoster<br />

Paris Offi ce (Advertising) IMM<br />

Tel: +33 (0)140 130 030<br />

INK<br />

CEO Jeff rey O’Rourke<br />

Deputy Editorial Director Andrew Humphreys<br />

Chief Operating Offi cer Hugh Godsal<br />

Publishing Director Simon Leslie<br />

easyJet TRAVELLER is published<br />

on behalf of easyJet by Ink<br />

141–143 Shoreditch High Street, London, E1 6JE<br />

Advertising Tel: +44 (0)20 7613 8796,<br />

Fax: +44 (0)20 7613 6985<br />

Editorial Tel: +44 (0)20 7613 6945<br />

Email info@ink-global.com<br />

ink-global.com, goferslogistics.com<br />

© Ink. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved.<br />

No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part<br />

without the prior written permission of the copyright holder.<br />

All prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions<br />

expressed in easyJet Traveller are not necessarily those of easyJet,<br />

and easyJet does not accept responsibility for advertising content.<br />

Any pictures or transparencies supplied are at the owner’s risk.<br />

Any mention of easyJet or use of the easyJet logo by any advertiser<br />

in this publication does not imply endorsement of that company,<br />

or its products or services by easyJet Airline Company.<br />

THIS MAGAZINE<br />

IS PRINTED ON 100%<br />

RECYCLED PAPER<br />

minus<br />

52%<br />

CO 2<br />

TRAVELLER<br />

PHOTOS © AXIOM, TIM WHITE


La primavera ya está llegando y es<br />

el momento perfecto para hacer<br />

una escapada. easyJet continua<br />

creciendo y ahora volamos a más de 130<br />

destinos diferentes a través de más de 500<br />

rutas. Madrid abre nuevas rutas a Venecia,<br />

Nápoles y Burdeos y también conectará las<br />

ciudades francesas de Toulouse y Nantes.<br />

easyJet ha estado siempre<br />

comprometida con las necesidades de sus<br />

pasajeros y desde que me uní a la compañía<br />

el año pasado hemos multiplicado nuestros<br />

esfuerzos para mejorar nuestro servicio.<br />

Sobre todo, hemos invertido en mejorar<br />

nuestra puntualidad y hemos visto un gran<br />

avance. Seguimos focalizados en volar a<br />

aeropuertos principales, desde los que no<br />

se pierde más tiempo ni coste que salir<br />

del aeródromo. De hecho, volamos a más<br />

aeropuertos principales en las rutas más<br />

importantes que cualquier otra compañía,<br />

y todo ello lo hacemos con una tripulación<br />

amable y unos precios económicos.<br />

Disfruta de tu vuelo y esperamos volver a<br />

verte pronto.<br />

La primavera sta arrivando ed<br />

è perfetta per una pausa last<br />

minute. Il network di easyJet sta<br />

continuando a espandersi e ora copre più<br />

di 130 destinazioni con più di 500 rotte.<br />

Madrid avrà nuovi voli per Venezia, Napoli<br />

e Bordeaux, e a breve sarà disponibile il<br />

collegamento tra Tolosa e Nantes.<br />

easyJet si è sempre impegnata nei<br />

confronti dei suoi passeggeri e, da quando<br />

sono entrata a far parte della Compagnia lo<br />

scorso anno, abbiamo raddoppiato gli sforzi<br />

per migliorare il nostro servizio. Abbiamo<br />

soprattutto investito nella puntualità e<br />

stiamo assistendo a dei reali progressi.<br />

Il nostro obiettivo rimane quello di farvi<br />

volare nei principali aeroporti, che non<br />

hanno maggiori tempi di percorrenza o<br />

costi più elevati per raggiungere il centro<br />

città, rispetto a quelli più lontani. Infatti<br />

voliamo da più aeroporti principali e sulle<br />

rotte più richieste rispetto a qualsiasi altra<br />

compagnia, e lo facciamo con uno staff<br />

cordiale e tariff e davvero competitive.<br />

Vi auguriamo un buon volo e speriamo di<br />

rivedervi presto a bordo dei nostri aerei.<br />

Le printemps approche, et c’est<br />

le moment idéal pour s’off rir un<br />

séjour de dernière minute. Et<br />

pour vous proposer toujours plus de choix,<br />

nous continuons d’étendre notre réseau,<br />

dorénavant fort de 130 destinations et<br />

500 lignes. Avec notamment plusieurs<br />

ouvertures depuis Madrid, que ce soit vers<br />

GREETINGS | ENJOY THE FLIGHT<br />

Welcome/Bienvenido/Bienvenue/Benvenuto/Willkommen<br />

SPRING IS NOW approaching and with<br />

winter behind us it’s the perfect time to<br />

consider a last-minute break. You could<br />

explore an exciting city destination or<br />

experience the sights and sensations<br />

of somewhere totally new. easyJet’s<br />

European fl ight network is continuing<br />

to expand and we now fl y to over 130<br />

diff erent destinations via more than 500<br />

routes. This month we have added some<br />

completely new destinations; Bologna in<br />

Italy and Amman in Jordan, both accessible<br />

from Gatwick later this month. Amman<br />

is an especially exciting new destination,<br />

steeped in rich history and home to worldfamous<br />

sights like Petra and the Dead<br />

Sea. Madrid will have new routes fl ying to<br />

Venice, Naples and Bordeaux and we will<br />

also be connecting the two French cities of<br />

Toulouse and Nantes.<br />

easyJet has always been committed to<br />

its customers, and since I joined last year<br />

we have redoubled our eff orts to improve<br />

the way we serve you. We are constantly<br />

looking at ways to make your travel<br />

experience easier, and we are committed<br />

to giving you open, relevant information via<br />

text, email and at the airport. During the<br />

severe weather we sent 200,000 texts to<br />

allow our passengers to plan their travel<br />

and help as much as we could. Above all we<br />

have invested in improving our punctuality<br />

and we are seeing real progress. We remain<br />

focused on fl ying you to main city airports,<br />

which don’t have the longer travel times<br />

or higher costs of more out-of-the-way<br />

airfi elds. In fact, we fl y between more main<br />

airports on popular routes than any other<br />

carrier, and we do so with friendly crew and<br />

great value fares.<br />

We hope you enjoy the fl ight and we look<br />

forward to fl ying you again soon.<br />

Venise, Naples ou Bordeaux, et la nouvelle<br />

liaison entre Toulouse et Nantes.<br />

Depuis que j’ai pris la direction d’easyJet<br />

l’année dernière, nous avons redoublé nos<br />

eff orts pour améliorer la qualité de notre<br />

service. Nous avons particulièrement<br />

investi sur la ponctualité, et nous notons<br />

une réelle amélioration. Comme toujours,<br />

notre objectif reste de vous emmener vers<br />

les aéroports principaux, accessibles bien<br />

plus rapidement et à moindre coût que les<br />

aérodromes éloignés. La preuve : easyJet<br />

est la compagnie aérienne qui opère le plus<br />

de vols entre les aéroports principaux et sur<br />

les lignes les plus prisées. Et toujours à des<br />

prix extrêmement compétitifs.<br />

Je vous souhaite un bon vol, en espérant<br />

vous accueillir de nouveau à bord très<br />

prochainement.<br />

Der Frühling steht vor der Tür, die<br />

ideale Gelegenheit für einen Last-<br />

Minute-Trip! easyJets europäisches<br />

Streckennetz expandiert weiter und wir<br />

fl iegen jetzt über 130 unterschiedliche Ziele<br />

auf mehr als 500 Strecken an. Von Madrid<br />

wird es neue Strecken nach Venedig, Neapel<br />

und Bordeaux geben, und wir werden die<br />

beiden französischen Städte Toulouse und<br />

Nantes miteinander verbinden.<br />

easyJet hat sich immer für seine<br />

Kunden engagiert, und seit ich letztes<br />

Jahr dazu gekommen bin, haben<br />

wir unsere Bemühungen nochmals<br />

verdoppelt, um unseren Service für Sie zu<br />

verbessern. Vor allem haben wir uns für<br />

die Verbesserung unserer Pünktlichkeit<br />

eingesetzt und wir sehen einen echten<br />

Fortschritt. Wir halten daran fest städtische<br />

Hauptfl ughäfen anzufl iegen, welche nicht<br />

die längeren Reisezeiten oder höheren<br />

Kosten abgelegener Flugfelder mit sich<br />

bringen. Vielmehr fl iegen wir zwischen<br />

mehr Hauptfl ughäfen auf mehr beliebten<br />

Flugstrecken als jede andere Fluglinie<br />

und das tun wir mit einer freundlichen<br />

Besatzung und günstigen Preisen.<br />

Wir hoff en, Sie genießen den Flug, und<br />

wir freuen uns, Sie bald wieder zu fl iegen!<br />

Carolyn McCall OBE<br />

easyJet Chief Executive<br />

If you have any thoughts or suggestions,<br />

email us at carolyn@easyJet.com<br />

For any queries or further information,<br />

visit easyJet.com<br />

Turn to pages 183–192 for the<br />

latest easyJet news.<br />

MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 9


THE BUZZ | VIEWFINDER<br />

10 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11


PHOTO © CORBIS<br />

THE BUZZ | VIEWFINDER<br />

31<br />

INSPIRING<br />

IDEAS<br />

FOR YOUR<br />

DIARY<br />

THE<br />

BUZZ<br />

Las Fallas<br />

VALENCIA<br />

Firecrackers at dawn mark the fi rst<br />

day of Las Fallas, Valencia’s epic fi re<br />

festival (15–19 March). Giant papiermâché<br />

models of public fi gures are<br />

stuff ed with fi reworks and blown up, as<br />

the city’s neighbourhoods compete to<br />

put on the most impressive pyrotechnic<br />

displays. fallasfromvalencia.com<br />

MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 11


THE BUZZ | VIEWFINDER<br />

Madeira<br />

Flower Festival<br />

MADEIRA<br />

For an island known for its breathtaking<br />

natural beauty, it’s not surprising that one<br />

of the best events in the local calendar<br />

celebrates the environment. The Flower<br />

Festival (5–8 May) sees the whole of<br />

Funchal transformed into a patchwork<br />

quilt of gorgeous fl ora and fauna.<br />

madeiratourism.org<br />

12 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />

Feria de Abril<br />

La Pasqua<br />

ROME<br />

Celebrations don’t come much bigger than Easter<br />

(la Pasqua) in Rome. On Good Friday (22 April) the<br />

Colosseum is lit with crosses of burning torches.<br />

Holy Saturday (23 April) involves a beautiful<br />

candlelit vigil in St Peter’s Basilica, and Easter<br />

Sunday (24 April) sees thousands crowd St Peter’s<br />

Square for a joyous mass – all overseen by the<br />

Pope. How’s that for grand? rome.info<br />

SEVILLE<br />

Seville’s April Fair (3–8 May), an extravagant weeklong<br />

fi esta in southern Spain, actually started off as<br />

CORBIS<br />

a humble agricultural event. Now visitors to the city<br />

©<br />

can enjoy fl amenco dancing, brightly lit fairgrounds<br />

and non-stop music. turismo.sevilla.org PHOTOS


Does the taxman<br />

have a cheque with<br />

your name on it?<br />

We can help<br />

you collect it.<br />

0121 228 7178<br />

admin@hedge-taxmitigation.co.uk<br />

www.hedge-taxmitigation.co.uk<br />

Do you let your UK or European<br />

holiday home, or do you own<br />

commercial property in the UK?<br />

If so, did you know you could reclaim some of the purchase price<br />

back from the taxman and reduce your future tax bills?<br />

HM Revenue and Customs have allowed<br />

Capital Allowances on property since<br />

1878. In December 2008 the legislation<br />

was redefi ned, and it is by using this<br />

updated legislation that we could help<br />

you reduce your tax bill or even claim<br />

money back, by claiming your rightful<br />

entitlement to tax allowances.<br />

The legislation may be about to change<br />

however so you need to act quickly<br />

before it’s too late.<br />

You’ll be wondering why you<br />

haven’t read about this in the press.<br />

Unsurprisingly, HMRC didn’t spend any<br />

money on advertising this to ensure<br />

you made your claim.<br />

You’ll also be wondering why your<br />

accountant hasn’t told you about it.<br />

This is because it is a very specialised<br />

area, spanning surveying and<br />

accountancy, and the vast majority of<br />

accountants do not carry out this work.<br />

If you pay income tax on income from<br />

any source, whether on a PAYE or<br />

self-assessment basis, and want to<br />

reclaim some or all of the tax you<br />

have paid for the last two years or<br />

reduce your future tax liability, then<br />

we could help.<br />

Call or email for more information<br />

and a no obligation summary<br />

application form.<br />

Tel: 0121 228 7178<br />

Email: admin@hedge-taxmitigation.co.uk<br />

ACT NOW<br />

BEFORE THE<br />

LEGISLATION<br />

CHANGES!<br />

Here’s a quick summary of the basics:<br />

Hedge Tax Mitigation will send<br />

you the reports for your existing<br />

accountant to make the claim<br />

to HMRC.<br />

You could claim 20 – 25% of the<br />

purchase price as a tax allowance.<br />

On a £200k property that means<br />

you could offset £40k against your<br />

income to reduce your tax bill! This<br />

could mean a refund of tax you have<br />

paid or cut your future tax bills.<br />

We will work with you to review the<br />

tax you have paid or will need to pay,<br />

and identify the correct properties to<br />

claim against, so that you do not pay<br />

us more than is necessary to achieve<br />

the savings you need.<br />

If you let your furnished holiday<br />

home, or own commercial property,<br />

then there could be a cheque<br />

with your name on it waiting to<br />

be collected.<br />

Act now to get your claim in to<br />

HMRC before the legislation<br />

changes.<br />

Enquiries welcome from introducers.


THE BUZZ | WORD OF MOUTH<br />

A Dog’s Life Up in Smoke<br />

We all know that dogs are man’s best<br />

friend, but would you ditch your mates<br />

to take your pooch to the pictures?<br />

That’s what happened at Stockholm’s<br />

Pet Fair in January. The event kicked off<br />

with a screening of Marmaduke, a fi lm<br />

about a Great Dane, playing to a cinema<br />

packed with 200 dogs and their owners.<br />

The screening came as canine experts<br />

announced that they now believe dogs<br />

can see in colour, rather than just black<br />

and white as was previously thought. The<br />

jury is still out on whether they can fully<br />

appreciate Hollywood’s 3D eff ects.<br />

14 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />

Spain has fi nally joined the rest of Western<br />

Europe and banned smoking in all its public<br />

spaces. Smoking is now forbidden in all<br />

bars and restaurants, on live broadcast<br />

TV, in airports and near hospitals or<br />

school playgrounds. But bar owners<br />

have complained that the tough laws will<br />

devastate their businesses, and some have<br />

started up their own protest groups. One<br />

restaurant in the northern city of Pontevedra<br />

has parked a van outside its premises<br />

complete with a table, chairs and heater,<br />

and enough room for six to eat, drink,<br />

and puff away as much as they please.<br />

ITALY<br />

Bin the Bags<br />

STOCKHOLM ASTURIAS LONDON<br />

Eco warriors have been railing against<br />

Europe’s dependency on plastic bags<br />

for ages –the UN Environment<br />

Programme estimates that they<br />

account for the deaths of 100,000<br />

marine mammals every year. In January<br />

Italy took decisive action, becoming the<br />

fi rst country to completely ban shops<br />

and supermarkets from giving out<br />

polythene bags. Once one of the largest<br />

consumers of plastic bags (the country<br />

used about a fi fth of all the plastic bags<br />

in Europe – the equivalent of 300 a year<br />

per person), Italy is expected to save<br />

180,000 tonnes of C02 emissions from<br />

this one decision alone.<br />

Charity Run<br />

One London charity has come up with<br />

a novel way to motivate runners by making<br />

them feel good on the inside as well as the<br />

outside. The Good Gym is based in East<br />

London and pairs a runner with someone<br />

less mobile in their area. Good Gym<br />

members jog to their partner’s house, run<br />

errands such as delivering groceries or<br />

tidying the garden, have a chat, and then<br />

get jogging again. Runners have to commit<br />

to one good deed a week – lots of people<br />

already run races to raise money for charity,<br />

but Good Gym off ers a much more handson<br />

way to help. thegoodgym.org


PHOTOS © PA PHOTOS, GETTY<br />

PARIS<br />

A Piece of Art<br />

The Art Exchange, the<br />

world’s fi rst art stock<br />

exchange, has been set up<br />

by A&F Markets in Paris<br />

with the aim of opening this<br />

elitist world up to everyone.<br />

The idea is that even if you<br />

don’t have the cash to buy<br />

an original canvas, you can<br />

still own a piece of an iconic<br />

painting. “Clients will be<br />

able to see the selection of<br />

BUCHAREST<br />

Plenty of us curse<br />

the taxman for taking<br />

away a chunk of our<br />

hard-earned cash each<br />

month, but government<br />

offi cials in Romania<br />

are feeling uneasy<br />

about a new law. The<br />

artworks out there, as well<br />

as the price and volume of<br />

the shares available,” says<br />

Pierre Naquin, founder of<br />

A&F Markets. The market<br />

opened with Francesco<br />

Vezzoli’s The Premiere of<br />

a Play That Will Never Run<br />

(pictured above), valued<br />

at €135,000 with shares<br />

starting at €10 each.<br />

aexchange.net<br />

Toil and Trouble<br />

legislation means that<br />

witches, astrologers<br />

and fortune tellers are<br />

now recognised as<br />

self-employed workers,<br />

and have to hand over<br />

16% of their income<br />

to the government.<br />

The bill was almost<br />

passed last year, but<br />

senators worried about<br />

vexing the country’s<br />

psychic community<br />

put it on hold. Romania<br />

has a long history of<br />

superstition – President<br />

Traian B ă sescu often<br />

wears purple when he<br />

needs important votes<br />

to go his way, because<br />

he believes that the<br />

colour has the power<br />

to ward off evil spirits.<br />

HOTEL COURCHENEIGE<br />

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Tel: +33 4 79 08 02 59 Fax: +33 4 79 08 11 79<br />

info@courcheneige.com www.courcheneige.com


WORDS AMY BAKER<br />

Blooming Lovely<br />

AMSTERDAM<br />

Slowly but surely, spring is<br />

shaking off winter’s grey<br />

skies and early morning<br />

frost, and nowhere is<br />

the change of season<br />

more spectacular than<br />

Keukenhof in Lisse. Just<br />

35km from Amsterdam,<br />

the 32-hectare garden is<br />

packed with some seven<br />

million fl owers from March<br />

until May each year, and on<br />

this grassy stage there’s<br />

one clear star of the show:<br />

the tulip. In fact, tulips<br />

make up more than half<br />

of the fl owers on display,<br />

with 100 diff erent varieties<br />

lovingly planted in intricate<br />

patterns and hundreds of<br />

diff erent shades. It’s<br />

a unique spectacle that<br />

has attracted more than<br />

44 million visitors since<br />

it opened in 1949.<br />

Each year Keukenhof<br />

celebrates a diff erent<br />

theme, and this year<br />

the chosen topic is<br />

Germany, Land of Poets<br />

and Philosophers. The<br />

centrepiece will be<br />

a glorious, 23m-long<br />

fl ower mosaic of Berlin’s<br />

Brandenburg Gate, created<br />

with 100,000 bulbs. The<br />

mosaic was planted in<br />

early October and will<br />

reveal itself when the<br />

park opens at the end<br />

of this month.<br />

Keukenhof is<br />

consistently voted one<br />

of the top attractions in<br />

Europe, and it’s as devoted<br />

to its fl owers as ever. Yes,<br />

there are tulip-shaped<br />

lollipops and other assorted<br />

kitsch, but if you climb the<br />

windmill at the centre of the<br />

garden you’ll be genuinely<br />

taken aback by the layers<br />

of sensational colours. If<br />

you get the chance, time<br />

your trip for 16 April when<br />

the famous Flower Parade<br />

winds a 40km route north<br />

from Noordwijk to Haarlem,<br />

passing through Keukenhof<br />

in the afternoon.<br />

From 24 March–20 May;<br />

keukenhof.nl<br />

THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />

CALENDAR<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

3–13 MAR<br />

Geneva International<br />

Motor Show<br />

GENEVA<br />

This is the most popular car show<br />

in Europe, with more than 700,000<br />

visitors fl ooding through the doors of<br />

the Geneva-Palexpo each year. Join<br />

them to have a sneak peek at the<br />

motoring world’s latest models and<br />

accessories. salon-auto.ch/en<br />

3–9 MAR<br />

Cologne Carnival<br />

COLOGNE<br />

Each March the residents of Cologne<br />

put on their craziest costumes and<br />

welcome visitors to party at one of<br />

Europe’s biggest street festivals. The<br />

city buzzes with parades and dancing<br />

for a whole week, all lubricated with<br />

strong local beer. koelnerkarneval1.de<br />

7–21 MAR<br />

Le Printemps<br />

des Poètes<br />

PARIS<br />

The French capital welcomes in the new<br />

season with this annual celebration<br />

of poetry. Schools, cafés, museums<br />

and other venues throughout the city<br />

play host to debates, exhibitions and<br />

competitions dedicated to all things<br />

poetic. printempsdespoetes.com<br />

MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 17


THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />

X Hits the Spot<br />

GENEVA<br />

After a hugely successful debut last<br />

year, the Winter X Games Europe returns<br />

to Tignes from 16–18 March. Ski and<br />

snowboarding contests don’t get much<br />

bigger than this multimillion-dollar<br />

ESPN TV spectacular, and the three-day<br />

festival will bring the world’s best snow<br />

athletes to the French Alps. Battling it<br />

out on custom-built courses in front<br />

of more than 60,000 spectators (plus<br />

a TV audience spanning 160 countries),<br />

the competitors will be going all out to<br />

make their mark.<br />

“When I fi rst started snowboarding,<br />

it was all about the X Games,” explains<br />

British snowboarder and three-time<br />

Winter X Games gold medallist Jenny<br />

Jones. “This was the competition<br />

that people aspired to, and to get<br />

a medal was something I had wanted<br />

to achieve for years.”<br />

Jones is just one of the 150 specially<br />

selected riders who will be competing<br />

on the superpipe (a halfpipe that’s<br />

18 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />

240m long, 19m wide and 7m high)<br />

and slopestyle course (an 800m-long<br />

piste featuring a combination of rails<br />

and giant kickers) built in a spectatorfriendly<br />

location right in the heart of Val<br />

Claret. “The atmosphere is brilliant as<br />

loads of people come out to support,”<br />

she continues. “The height some of the<br />

skiers get in the superpipe is awesome<br />

and the double-cork tricks in the<br />

slopestyle are incredible to watch.”<br />

But the competition is just a small<br />

part of the many activities on off er to<br />

visitors. The X Fest Village at the base<br />

of the courses will play host to a wide<br />

variety of free entertainment, including<br />

fi lm screenings, autograph-signing<br />

sessions, skateboard displays, bars, live<br />

music and after-show parties all hosted<br />

by the likes of Quiksilver, Oakley and<br />

Sony Ericsson. And, of course, freestyle<br />

snowmobiling displays in the evenings<br />

– your chance to experience the unlikely<br />

sight of a snowmobile doing a back fl ip.<br />

winterxgameseurope.com Ed Andrews<br />

CALENDAR<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

10–12 MAR<br />

Milan Clown Festival<br />

MILAN<br />

It might be better known as one of<br />

Europe’s most stylish cities, but this<br />

month Milan is the place to be if you want<br />

to clown around. With free performances<br />

in churches, theatres and on street<br />

corners, not to mention a chapiteau<br />

(“big top”), visitors can expect belly<br />

laughs aplenty. milanoclownfestival.tk<br />

18–27 MAR<br />

MaerzMusik<br />

BERLIN<br />

This festival of contemporary music is<br />

renowned for its eclectic, experimental<br />

approach. This year the theme is<br />

sound and image, with a wide range<br />

of fi lms, light shows and cutting-edge<br />

visuals accompanying the tunes.<br />

berlinerfestspiele.de<br />

26 MAR<br />

Oxford & Cambridge<br />

Boat Race<br />

LONDON<br />

Starting life in 1829 as a simple bet<br />

between school friends, the boat race<br />

is now an English sporting institution.<br />

Thousands line the banks of the Thames<br />

to catch a glimpse of the rowers – get<br />

there early and stake out a spot on<br />

Putney Bridge. theboatrace.org<br />

PHOTOS © STEF CANDE/SHAZAMM/ESPN IMAGES, ALAMY | WORDS AMY BAKER


THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />

Punk & Politics<br />

BERLIN<br />

If you visited Berlin’s<br />

Alexanderplatz last year,<br />

you may well have seen<br />

the photo exhibition that<br />

stood in the square to<br />

mark 20 years since the<br />

fall of the Wall. One of<br />

its most striking images<br />

showed a Volkspolizei<br />

offi cer questioning a surly<br />

teenager with a mohawk<br />

and ripped jeans, a shot<br />

made all the more poignant<br />

by the fact that it was taken<br />

in exactly the same spot in<br />

1980, when punk rock was<br />

at its emphatic peak.<br />

The thrashing riff s,<br />

outrageous hairstyles and<br />

shocking piercings that<br />

go hand-in-hand with the<br />

punk scene were frowned<br />

upon in the UK, the US<br />

and practically everywhere<br />

else they popped up. But<br />

punks in East Germany<br />

risked much more than<br />

disapproval. The Stasi<br />

(State Security) feared<br />

that punk posed a threat<br />

to the GDR (German<br />

Democratic Republic),<br />

persecuting its proponents<br />

and denouncing them as<br />

enemies of the state. Yet the<br />

Stasi’s anger only spurred<br />

20 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />

on the renegades,<br />

who found that it<br />

was an exciting time<br />

to rebel for those<br />

who had the guts.<br />

Punk & Disorderly,<br />

Berlin’s annual punk<br />

festival, is a celebration<br />

of the ethos that so<br />

profoundly changed the<br />

city – revolution dovetailed<br />

with rock 30 years ago, and<br />

the results moulded the<br />

Berlin we know today. Marc<br />

Nickel, a passionate punk<br />

since the movement fi rst<br />

hit Germany, started the<br />

event some 11 years ago.<br />

“Me and my friends were all<br />

growing up in West Berlin<br />

back in the late 1970s, but<br />

we always stayed in touch<br />

with people behind the Iron<br />

Curtain through the punk<br />

scene,” he says. “In the East,<br />

punks expressed a new<br />

youthful rebellion, but it was<br />

very political too – the Stasi<br />

spied on East German punk<br />

bands and fans.”<br />

Nickel believes that Punk<br />

& Disorderly is more than<br />

just a way to pay respects<br />

to a faded musical era, it’s<br />

a chance to inspire the next<br />

generation of fans. “We<br />

started the festival in the<br />

days when punk was falling<br />

out of fashion. We felt we<br />

wanted to do this festival,<br />

as fans, to keep the scene<br />

alive. We now get 6,000<br />

people in each night – it’s<br />

grown massively.”<br />

This year’s event, held<br />

at the Astra Kulturhaus<br />

in Kreuzberg, will boast<br />

screeching sets by<br />

bands from all over the<br />

world. British hardcore<br />

act Deadline will appear<br />

alongside American retropunks<br />

The Traditionals and<br />

the home-grown talents of<br />

Bad Co. Project.<br />

Unsurprisingly, Nickel<br />

can’t wait. “What makes<br />

it special is that people<br />

from all over the world<br />

get together. Berlin has<br />

this massive alternative<br />

subculture, and a legendary<br />

underground nightlife, so<br />

it’s a perfect place for<br />

Punk & Disorderly.”<br />

1–3 April, punk-disorderly.de<br />

Chris Beanland<br />

CALENDAR<br />

NEXT MONTH<br />

2–9 APR<br />

Princess Sofi a<br />

Yachting Regatta<br />

MAJORCA<br />

Each year more than 600 boats and<br />

1,000 sailors gather in the Balearic<br />

Islands to compete in one of Spain’s<br />

biggest yachting regattas. The speed,<br />

skill and sheer number of boats<br />

guarantees an outstanding spectator<br />

event. trofeoprincesasofi a.org<br />

2–17 APR<br />

Istanbul International<br />

Film Festival<br />

ISTANBUL<br />

This annual fi lm festival showcases<br />

Turkey’s burgeoning movie talent.<br />

Some 235 fi lms will be screened,<br />

selected from a mix of fi rst-time<br />

showings, international work and<br />

cinema classics. iksv.org<br />

4–9 APR<br />

Snowbombing Festival<br />

INNSBRUCK<br />

Back for its 12th riotous year, the<br />

Snowbombing Festival has a reputation<br />

for being the biggest party on the<br />

slopes. This year the musical line-up<br />

includes The Prodigy, Fatboy Slim<br />

and drum’n’bass/rock crossover act<br />

Pendulum. Prepare to ski all day and<br />

dance all night. snowbombing.com<br />

PHOTOS © ALAMY, GETTY | WORDS AMY BAKER


THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />

Walk<br />

This Way<br />

Pack your walking boots<br />

for a sensational new tour<br />

of the Channel Islands<br />

JERSEY<br />

The Channel Islands are one of Britain’s<br />

most picturesque outposts. A place of<br />

romantic sunsets, idyllic country lanes<br />

and dramatic seascapes, it’s easy to see<br />

why visitors have been coming here for<br />

years to soak up the unique Anglo-French<br />

atmosphere. Now it’s even easier to discover<br />

the islands’ most attractive corners, thanks<br />

to the Channel Islands Way (CIW).<br />

A 185km route that circumnavigates<br />

Jersey, Guernsey, Alderney, Herm and Sark,<br />

off ering some breathtaking views along the<br />

way, the CIW was the brainchild of Jersey<br />

man and Blue Badge walking guide Arthur<br />

Lamy (arthurthebluebadgeguide.com), who<br />

spent fi ve years stringing it together.<br />

“My self-imposed mission was to get<br />

as many people as possible exploring the<br />

fabulous and diverse coastline that the<br />

22 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />

Channel Islands enjoy,” enthuses Lamy.<br />

“And without any false diplomacy, I have to<br />

say that the whole route is great. The islands<br />

are broadly similar, but each has its own<br />

charm, its own micro-culture, and its own<br />

fl ora and fauna as well.” After witnessing<br />

the vast golden sands of St Ouen’s Bay on<br />

Jersey and the jade-green waters of Dixcart<br />

Bay on Sark – both so unlike any other<br />

Clockwise from here,<br />

Jersey’s Portelet<br />

Bay, Gorey Harbour,<br />

an intrepid hiker<br />

British scenery that it’s easy to forget you’re<br />

still in the UK – I’m inclined to agree.<br />

There are already a number of serious<br />

walkers vying to be the fi rst to complete the<br />

route when it opens this spring. To do so<br />

will require several ferry journeys and up to<br />

two weeks, but Lamy believes the majority<br />

of walkers won’t undertake the entire route<br />

– the CIW is long, but it’s really not about<br />

racking up the miles.<br />

Designed to be accessible to all types of<br />

walker, the route is divided into sections<br />

of approximately 3km–6.5km, each with<br />

a bus stop, car park, pub or café at either<br />

end. It might be a far cry from Britain’s<br />

mighty hikes such as the Pennine Way and<br />

Off a’s Dyke Path, but the CIW promises<br />

to be an accessible, beautiful trek that<br />

visitors will be happy to try.<br />

Alf Alderson


PHOTOS © 4CORNERS<br />

BLISTER PACK<br />

STRETCH YOUR LEGS WITH<br />

A WALK ON ONE OF THESE<br />

TRAILS, NEW FOR <strong>2011</strong><br />

➳ South Loch Ness Trail<br />

INVERNESS<br />

What better way to<br />

spot Nessie than on the<br />

48km South Loch Ness<br />

Trail, which opens this<br />

spring? The walking isn’t<br />

too demanding, giving<br />

you all the more time<br />

to keep an eye on the<br />

water for mysterious<br />

movements, and to<br />

enjoy the magnifi cent<br />

SPLIT<br />

This new 21km route is<br />

hardly long distance, but<br />

it will still provide you with<br />

a good day’s walk through<br />

the heart of the beautiful<br />

Croatian National Park<br />

Plitvice Lakes, which has<br />

been included on the<br />

UNESCO list of World<br />

Heritage Sites since 1979.<br />

Although better known<br />

➳ Great Stones Way<br />

BOURNEMOUTH<br />

It seems strange that it’s<br />

taken until <strong>2011</strong> for the<br />

powers that be to create<br />

a walking trail between the<br />

World Heritage Sites of<br />

Stonehenge and Avebury.<br />

The 60km-long Great<br />

Stones Way opens later this<br />

month, and passes through<br />

the bucolic landscapes<br />

of the Wiltshire Downs, the<br />

Highland scenery along<br />

the way. The trail is also<br />

open to horse riders and<br />

mountain bikers, and it’s<br />

hoped that eventually it<br />

can be extended to link up<br />

with the Great Glen Way<br />

on the north side of the<br />

loch to create a complete<br />

circumnavigation of<br />

Loch Ness.<br />

visitlochness.com<br />

➳ Corkova Uvala Trail<br />

for its 16 spectacular<br />

waterfalls and beautiful<br />

lakes, the region also has<br />

some pristine forests,<br />

which the Corkova Uvala<br />

Trail passes through.<br />

The 9km-long Plitvice Trail<br />

is a well-signed option<br />

through the forest that<br />

off ers fantastic views<br />

without too much exertion.<br />

np-plitvicka-jezera.hr/en<br />

Vale of Pewsey, Salisbury<br />

Plain and the Avon Valley,<br />

providing a combination<br />

of incredible vistas and<br />

world-famous prehistoric<br />

archaeology. Fit walkers<br />

should be able to manage<br />

it in a day, but for a gentler<br />

alternative, try the 21km<br />

ramble from Casterley<br />

Camp to Stonehenge.<br />

visitwiltshire.co.uk


THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />

On Top<br />

of the<br />

World<br />

SALZBURG<br />

Standing more than<br />

3,000m above Lake Zell<br />

and Hohe Tauern National<br />

Park is the white-tipped<br />

peak of Kitzsteinhorn,<br />

a mountain and glacier that<br />

off ers deep powder snow<br />

all year round. With 138km<br />

of ski runs and 53 cable<br />

cars and lifts, Kitzsteinhorn<br />

has been a favourite with<br />

skiers since Austria’s fi rst<br />

glacier lift started running<br />

here in 1966. But now a new<br />

development is opening it<br />

up to a fresh audience.<br />

“The Austrian Alps<br />

are a miracle of nature,”<br />

says Dr Norbert Winding,<br />

explaining why he became<br />

involved in PeakWorld<br />

3000, a project that<br />

showcases the area’s<br />

incredible beauty. As the<br />

director of Salzburg's<br />

Natural History Museum,<br />

Winding is accustomed<br />

to bringing nature to the<br />

people, but with this new<br />

project he aims to take<br />

the people to nature.<br />

24 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />

Perched at the<br />

top of Kitzsteinhorn,<br />

PeakWorld 3000<br />

comprises a cinema,<br />

gallery and restaurant.<br />

But you won’t fi nd<br />

the latest Hollywood<br />

blockbusters showing up<br />

here – like everything else<br />

at PeakWorld 3000, the<br />

cinema is dedicated to<br />

Zell Am See’s landscape.<br />

The inaugural screening is<br />

Kitzsteinhorn: The Nature,<br />

a short fi lm that tells the<br />

story of the mountains in<br />

the surrounding area.<br />

The 360m-long<br />

gallery will open in June,<br />

housing fi ve exhibitions<br />

and including an outdoor<br />

viewing platform that<br />

provides visitors with the<br />

sort of breath-taking vistas<br />

that are usually only seen<br />

by dedicated Alpinists and<br />

expert climbers.<br />

It’s this incredible<br />

beauty (and the year-round<br />

snow) that prompted the<br />

women’s US ski team to<br />

name Zell Am See-Kaprun<br />

their European training<br />

base last season. Olympic<br />

shredders such as Lindsey<br />

Vonn and Julia Mancuso<br />

kicked back at the resort<br />

in between events, and<br />

Vonn declared it her “home<br />

away from home”. Winding<br />

and his colleagues hope<br />

that PeakWorld 3000<br />

can convince many more<br />

visitors to do the same.<br />

PeakWorld 3000’s viewing<br />

platform and gallery will<br />

open this summer<br />

Shelley Jones<br />

CALENDAR<br />

NEXT MONTH<br />

9 APR<br />

Grand National<br />

LIVERPOOL<br />

The world-famous race at Aintree brings<br />

Britain to a standstill every year, and<br />

makes for a thrilling day out. But the<br />

race is only half the fun – afterwards,<br />

the party takes over Liverpool’s city<br />

centre, as winners celebrate and<br />

losers commiserate in the pubs<br />

and bars. aintree.co.uk<br />

25 APR<br />

Festa di San Marco<br />

VENICE<br />

St Mark is Venice’s patron saint, and the<br />

public holiday held in his honour on<br />

25 April features a full programme of<br />

festivities. This is the day when men<br />

present their love with a single red rose,<br />

and in the evening gondolas race in<br />

St Mark’s Basin. veneziasi.it<br />

28 APR–2 MAY<br />

Cathedral Quarter<br />

Arts Festival<br />

BELFAST<br />

Belfast’s beautiful cathedral quarter<br />

plays host to this alternative festival<br />

of comedy, live music, theatre and<br />

art. Visitors are encouraged to<br />

participate in unusual workshops,<br />

ranging from African drumming<br />

to fi lm-making. cqaf.com<br />

PHOTOS © ALAMY | WORDS AMY BAKER


henry-jullien.com<br />

Collection EQUINOXE - Tél. : 0825 09 69 00 - Photos : Bruno FABBRIS


THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />

Belfast<br />

Craics Up<br />

<br />

26 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />

<br />

<br />

If Dublin is the traditional home<br />

of St Patrick’s Day, Belfast is its<br />

unruly northern neighbour. With<br />

a world-class music scene and more<br />

quality pubs than you could hope<br />

to crawl around in a week,<br />

it’s the perfect place to join the<br />

celebrations this month…<br />

1<br />

<br />

2<br />

3<br />

<br />

<br />

4<br />

<br />

<br />

5<br />

6<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

7


ILLUSTRATION © MARC ASPINALL | WORDS PIPER TERRETT<br />

1<br />

Europa Hotel<br />

To start your St Patrick’s Day in style,<br />

stop by the Europa. It has long been<br />

the place in Belfast to rub shoulders<br />

with the great and the good – Bill and<br />

Hillary Clinton famously stayed here.<br />

With fi ne dining and a piano bar, it’s<br />

also a great way to fi nish the evening,<br />

well away from the crowds.<br />

Great Victoria Street,<br />

tel: +44 (0)28 9027 1066<br />

2<br />

The Crown<br />

Liquor Saloon<br />

Belfast is full of historic pubs but The<br />

Crown is one of its greatest. Owned<br />

by the National Trust, it was one of the<br />

UK’s most spectacular gin palaces<br />

and remains an ideal place to toast St<br />

Patrick. Restored to its former glory, it<br />

hosts a thriving blues music scene.<br />

46 Great Victoria Street,<br />

tel: +44 (0)28 9024 3187<br />

3<br />

Kelly’s Cellars<br />

There’s some competition for the<br />

title of Belfast’s oldest pub, but Kelly’s<br />

Cellars can claim to be the city’s<br />

oldest continually licensed premises.<br />

Built in 1720, the low ceilings and<br />

pleasing gloom make it feel as though<br />

things haven’t changed much since<br />

then, so it’s the perfect spot for an<br />

authentic Irish pint.<br />

30 Bank Street,<br />

tel: +44 (0)28 9032 4835<br />

4<br />

The John<br />

Hewitt Bar<br />

When you’ve worked up an appetite,<br />

head for The John Hewitt. Based in<br />

Belfast’s trendy Cathedral Quarter,<br />

it won Best Gastro Pub 2010 at<br />

the Northern Ireland FATE Awards.<br />

Owned by the Belfast Unemployed<br />

Resource Centre, it’s also a popular<br />

venue for live Ulster-Scots music.<br />

51 Donegall Street,<br />

tel: +44 (0)28 9023 3768<br />

5<br />

Carnival Parade<br />

The carnival parade is Belfast’s main<br />

St Patrick’s Day event. Starting<br />

from Belfast City Hall at noon and<br />

winding its way to Custom House<br />

Square, the event features acrobats,<br />

pipers and performers, as well as<br />

local community groups. The theme<br />

this year is the environment, so the<br />

parade will be aiming to turn Belfast<br />

green in more ways than one.<br />

Belfast City Hall, Donegall Square<br />

6<br />

St Patrick’s<br />

Day Concert<br />

The annual St Patrick’s Day concert<br />

kicks off at 1pm with a line-up of<br />

traditional music and dance, before<br />

headliners Stacey Solomon and<br />

Lemar take to the stage and the<br />

pre-teen screaming starts. The<br />

concert is free and entry is fi rst<br />

come fi rst served, so get there<br />

when the gates open at noon to<br />

stand a chance of seeing the show.<br />

Custom House Square<br />

7<br />

McHugh’s<br />

Another of the competitors for the<br />

oldest pub crown, McHugh’s is based<br />

in Belfast’s oldest building. Not that<br />

you’ll get much sense of history on<br />

St Patrick’s Day – the location<br />

on Queen’s Square, just around<br />

the corner from the concert venue,<br />

means its three fl oors will be<br />

packed with partygoers until late.<br />

29–31 Queens Square,<br />

tel: +44 (0)28 9050 9999<br />

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THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />

HOTEL<br />

REVIEWS,<br />

NEWS &<br />

OFFERS<br />

NORDIC HOTEL<br />

FORUM<br />

TALLINN<br />

The Nordic Hotel Forum in Tallinn<br />

is the jewel in the Nordic chain’s crown.<br />

On the top fl oor of this forward-thinking,<br />

splendidly situated venue you’ll discover<br />

an unexpected oasis: a forest lake-themed<br />

relaxation centre boasting a pool, sauna,<br />

gym and Jacuzzi, plus exquisite views of the<br />

city’s medieval Old Town, with cocktails<br />

available on demand. It’s a fi ne way to wind<br />

down after a day’s hectic networking.<br />

Tallinn is a thriving hub of 21st-century<br />

commerce, and the Nordic prides itself on<br />

providing the perfect base without maxing<br />

out the expense account. There are Skype<br />

phones in every business room with credit<br />

already added so you can phone mobiles<br />

anywhere in the world for free. Add to that<br />

free parking and free Wi-Fi, and you can<br />

see why it’s so popular with guests from<br />

around the world.<br />

This is chiefl y a well-appointed business<br />

and conference hotel, but there are some<br />

pleasingly luxurious touches: the spacious<br />

walk-in wet room, for example, is all the<br />

more agreeable when the interactive, pipedin<br />

TV is tuned to a music station. It says<br />

something about a place when even your<br />

morning ablutions come with a high-tech<br />

boost. From €90, book at hotels.easyJet.com<br />

28 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />

ÇIRAĞAN PALACE<br />

KEMPINSKI<br />

ISTANBUL<br />

Built in 1874 for Sultan Abdülaziz, this<br />

marble hotel was one of the Ottoman<br />

Empire’s fi nest royal palaces. By the mid-<br />

20th century it had fallen into disrepair,<br />

and in the 1970s it was abandoned, local<br />

residents turning its sunken gardens into<br />

a popular public swimming pool.<br />

Today, the Çıra˘gan Palace is one<br />

of Europe’s most sumptuous hotels,<br />

personifying Istanbul’s high society.<br />

It sits just north of the Golden Horn<br />

in Istanbul’s belle-époque European<br />

quarter, nudged up against the mighty<br />

Bosphorus on one side with the lovely,<br />

pavilion-dotted Yıldız Park on the other.<br />

The décor dovetails with the hotel’s<br />

palatial history – all plush textiles,<br />

silks, soft wools and traditional Turkish<br />

motifs. And if that all makes you feel<br />

like a spoiled sultan, slip down the hall<br />

to the authentic Turkish steam baths.<br />

As well as the manicured gardens,<br />

huge outdoor swimming pool with<br />

dramatic views across the river, and<br />

cluster of luxury shops, the Çıra˘gan<br />

Palace boasts several top-notch<br />

restaurants. Tu˘gra (dinner only)<br />

serves classic Turkish and Ottoman<br />

food updated by chef U˘gur Alparslan.<br />

Or try Sunday brunch at Laledan,<br />

where the 100-platter buffet includes<br />

freshly shucked oysters, a sushi bar<br />

and pyramids of Turkish delight –<br />

simply divine. From €320, book at<br />

hotels.easyJet.com


WORDS KIMBERLEY CHEN, SI HAWKINS, KATHRYN TOMASETTI<br />

LATEST NEWS 3<br />

MUNICH The Leonardo Royal<br />

Hotel in Munich opened earlier<br />

this year, a 424-room modern<br />

hotel that has a 1,800m 2<br />

conference room and a stunning<br />

ballroom that can fi t up to<br />

700 guests. The trendy Vitruv<br />

restaurant serves a combination<br />

of Bavarian, Mediterranean and<br />

Asian cuisine, while the Leo90<br />

bar is the ideal place if you want<br />

to unwind with a drink. From<br />

€69, book at hotels.easyJet.com<br />

MADRID For an elegant break<br />

in the heart of the Spanish capital,<br />

the 19th-century NH Palacio de<br />

Tepa, which opened at the end<br />

of last year, is a luxurious choice.<br />

Ideally located in Madrid’s arty<br />

Las Letras district, the hotel is<br />

within walking distance of the<br />

Prado Museum, the Reina Sofi a<br />

Art Centre and the famous Plaza<br />

Mayor and Plaza Santa Ana. The<br />

redesign of the original mansion<br />

preserved its original features, but<br />

all 85 rooms now feature the latest<br />

high-tech touches, including Wi-<br />

Fi and iPod speakers. From €159,<br />

book at hotels.easyJet.com<br />

VIENNA Sofi tel has pulled off<br />

a coup with the new Sofi tel Vienna<br />

Stephansdom. The brainchild of<br />

renowned architect Jean Nouvel,<br />

this cutting-edge hotel has<br />

multicoloured video ceilings and<br />

a living wall made up of 20,000<br />

different species of plants. To<br />

fully appreciate the hotel’s<br />

location and design, book a table<br />

at the glass-walled restaurant on<br />

the 18th fl oor to watch the sun go<br />

down on this beautiful city. From<br />

€355, book at sofi tel.com<br />

OF THE<br />

BEST<br />

THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />

MICHELIN-STARRED HOTEL RESTAURANTS<br />

THE CLIFF BAY<br />

MADEIRA<br />

The fi rst thing to greet you as you enter The<br />

Cliff Bay is the vast, blue Atlantic. But it’s<br />

not the views that have visitors fl ocking to<br />

this fi ve-star venue; it’s the gorgeous Il Gallo<br />

d’Oro – the only Michelin-worthy restaurant<br />

in Madeira. Run by Benoît Sinthon, it<br />

serves an elegant menu of Italian and<br />

Mediterranean cuisine. From €190, book at<br />

hotels.easyJet.com<br />

CHESTER GROSVENOR & SPA<br />

MANCHESTER<br />

The Grade II-listed Chester Grosvenor hotel<br />

has bags of character, but its greatest draw<br />

is Simon Radley’s restaurant. A respectful<br />

hush prevails in the smart dining room, as<br />

guests attend to the extraordinary dishes<br />

placed before them. The restaurant has<br />

held its Michelin star for two decades, and<br />

it’s easy to see why. From €207, book at<br />

hotels.easyJet.com<br />

L’OXALYS<br />

GRENOBLE<br />

Who says cuisine on the slopes has to<br />

be a greasy plate of tartifl ette? L’Oxalys is<br />

a charming four-star hotel complex in Val<br />

Thorens, and its double Michelin-starred<br />

restaurant of the same name is run by<br />

hotshot Jean Sulpice – the youngest chef<br />

in France with two stars. The menu is<br />

surprisingly aff ordable, and the inventive<br />

dishes sure to impress. montagnettes.com<br />

This month’s best deals at easyJet.com<br />

Soak up the culture of Portugal’s beautiful<br />

second city, Porto, in the friendly DIXO’S<br />

OPORTO. A hostel set in a stunning 19thcentury<br />

UNESCO World Heritage building,<br />

it was recently renovated and its owners<br />

claim that it’s the most central hostel in<br />

the city. It’s certainly perfectly located for<br />

strolling along the banks of the Douro River,<br />

or exploring Porto’s famous wine cellars.<br />

From €16, book at easyJet.hostelworld.com<br />

Set in the heart of Sofi a’s vibrant and<br />

thriving Ivan Shishman Strasse, CANAPÉ<br />

CONNECTION is a cool new hostel with<br />

bags of personality. The friendly staff will<br />

organise airport pick-ups and drop-offs,<br />

and a breakfast of pancakes or banitsa<br />

(Bulgarian pastry) plus towels and<br />

unlimited internet access are all included<br />

in the rock-bottom price. From €11,<br />

book at easyJet.hostelworld.com<br />

Six great reasons to book your accommodation through hotels.easyJet.com<br />

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MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 29


THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />

8–22 MAY<br />

6–9 JULY<br />

Ironman Lanzarote<br />

LANZAROTE<br />

Most visitors to the Canaries<br />

settle for sitting on the beach<br />

and taking the occasional dip<br />

in the sea, but how would you<br />

fancy swimming 3.8km, cycling<br />

180km and running 42.2km<br />

around Lanzarote? Widely<br />

regarded as one of the toughest<br />

triathlons in the world – and<br />

it’s not as if the easiest one is<br />

a synch – Ironman Lanzarote<br />

30 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />

Optimus Alive!<br />

LISBON<br />

Named after its sponsor<br />

– a telecoms company,<br />

not a Transformer – this<br />

Portuguese music festival<br />

takes place from 6–9 July<br />

in Oeiras, just outside<br />

Lisbon, and has something<br />

for everyone, however<br />

eccentric. Its inaugural<br />

year saw Pearl Jam and<br />

the Beastie Boys partying<br />

like it was 1997 rather<br />

than 2007; 2008 pitted<br />

(race day is 21 May) is an<br />

incredible feat of endurance<br />

that takes at least nine hours<br />

to complete. If you can live<br />

without the kudos, sunburn and<br />

$75,000 prize money, there<br />

are enough ancillary treats –<br />

a pasta party to build up those<br />

essential carbs, fi reworks, even<br />

Ironman Kids – to tire out the<br />

most dedicated spectators.<br />

ironmanlanzarote.com<br />

Bob Dylan against Rage<br />

Against The Machine; The<br />

Prodigy scared the pants<br />

off the Dave Matthews<br />

Band in 2009; and 2010<br />

went (comparatively)<br />

underground with Skunk<br />

Anansie and Biff y Clyro.<br />

With Coldplay, Foo Fighters<br />

and Chemical Brothers<br />

(pictured) all confi rmed,<br />

<strong>2011</strong> should be huge – all<br />

the more so since ticket<br />

prices remain comparatively<br />

tiny at €129 for a four-day<br />

pass. optimusalive.com<br />

BOOK<br />

AHEAD<br />

Planning something<br />

diff erent over the next<br />

few months? Make<br />

a note in your diary<br />

and get to one of<br />

these events<br />

3–18 JUNE<br />

Holland<br />

Festival<br />

AMSTERDAM<br />

Eclecticism is the watchword at this<br />

citywide celebration of music, theatre<br />

and dance, a fi xture on the local cultural<br />

calendar since 1947. Previous alumni<br />

range from opera singer Maria Callas<br />

to avant-garde composer Frank Zappa,<br />

and the pick-and-mix programming<br />

shows no sign of abating this year.<br />

The festival opens with Christoph<br />

Schlingensief’s Mea Culpa, an opera<br />

inspired by its composer’s terminal<br />

cancer. Things get more upbeat with<br />

Fela! (pictured), a Tony award-winning<br />

tribute to political activist and Afrobeat<br />

pioneer Fela Kuti (produced by Jay-Z<br />

and Will Smith, no less), and Human<br />

Music Box, a pop-tinged homage to<br />

1920s German cabaret infl uenced by<br />

Kurt Weill and Kate Bush. Talk about<br />

a variety show. hollandfestival.nl<br />

PHOTO REX | WORDS MATT GLASBY


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Track down a calçotada for a true taste of traditional Catalan dining<br />

TUCKING INTO BURNT onions<br />

might not sound like the most<br />

appetising lunch, but it’s worth<br />

catching the end of the calçot<br />

season this month to experience<br />

a true culinary ritual. The sweet,<br />

leek-like onions are blackened<br />

on a barbecue or open fi re and<br />

served throughout winter across<br />

Catalonia, creating strong feelings<br />

(and plenty of messy faces)<br />

wherever they’re eaten.<br />

But this is no ordinary meal.<br />

The consumption of calçots is<br />

called a calçotada, and is usually a<br />

lunchtime aff air. The feast begins<br />

with wine, bread and around<br />

20 calçots per person, charred,<br />

tender and traditionally served<br />

steaming on a clay roofi ng tile.<br />

Twenty may seem like a lot<br />

Onion Eaters<br />

(especially given that calçots are<br />

usually eaten as a starter), but<br />

Pedro Fuentes Castillo, owner of<br />

Restaurant L’Antic Forn (28 Calle<br />

Pintor Fortuny, tel: +34 (0)93<br />

412 0286) says that he’s used to<br />

serving up many more than that.<br />

Fuentes Castillo also says that<br />

diners should stand up to eat,<br />

dipping their calçots in creamy<br />

romesco sauce before tilting their<br />

heads back and lowering the lot into<br />

their mouths. It’s great fun but not<br />

the most practical way to eat an<br />

onion, and most restaurants furnish<br />

diners with bibs and plastic gloves<br />

to protect them from the worst<br />

of the mess.<br />

Once the tile has been cleared,<br />

the main course begins. Barbecued<br />

meats such as lamb, rabbit and<br />

butifarra sausages are brought<br />

to the table, along with grilled<br />

vegetables and white beans. When<br />

diners begin loosening their belts<br />

THE BUZZ | TASTE BUDS<br />

a notch, waiters know it’s time to<br />

bring out the cava, desserts and<br />

coff ee. All of this feasting will set<br />

you back about €30 per person,<br />

making a calçotada a thoroughly<br />

reasonable indulgence.<br />

You’ll fi nd calçots served in<br />

restaurants all over Barcelona<br />

and the surrounding countryside,<br />

but the best place to eat them<br />

is Valls, a town just over an hour’s<br />

drive from Barcelona. Valls is the<br />

birthplace of the calçot tradition,<br />

and a calçot festival is held here<br />

every January, complete with a<br />

calçot-eating contest. Consuming<br />

calçots is more than a meal – it’s an<br />

event, a traditional way to celebrate<br />

winter, family, friends and, of<br />

course, those long, green onions.<br />

Regina Winkle-Bryan<br />

MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 33<br />

PHOTO © TIM WHITE


THE BUZZ | TASTE BUDS<br />

Fika<br />

Seeker<br />

For the Swedes, coff ee is<br />

more than a drink – it’s<br />

a way of life. And the best<br />

place to experience that<br />

life is in one of Gothenburg’s<br />

independent cafés<br />

UNTIL 2010 THERE were no branches of<br />

Starbucks in Sweden, but that doesn’t<br />

mean the Swedes don’t thirst after coff ee.<br />

On the contrary, Sweden consistently ranks<br />

among the world’s biggest coff ee-drinking<br />

countries (usually outdone only by Finland),<br />

and the fi ka, or coff ee break, is a national<br />

institution. To see the fi ka in action, head to<br />

Gothenburg, the city generally reckoned to<br />

be Sweden’s coff ee capital. Hang around<br />

its independent cafés, and it won’t be long<br />

before you see the obsession at fi rst hand.<br />

“If we want to meet up we’ll say, ‘Let’s<br />

have a fi ka!’” says Gothenburg resident<br />

Lena Larsson as she orders her favourite,<br />

a cappuccino and an apple bun, in Mauritz<br />

Kaff e (2 Fredsgatan, tel: +46 (0)31 806<br />

971). “In some countries people usually<br />

meet in the pub, but here we’re more likely<br />

to catch up over coff ee and a bun.” Larsson<br />

agrees that Gothenburg is Sweden’s<br />

coff ee centre, with even more high-quality,<br />

independent coff ee shops than Stockholm.<br />

Maybe it’s because it’s a university town<br />

(students are reliable café customers) that<br />

the cobbled streets are now chock-full<br />

of espresso bars, and the Old Town still<br />

houses places such as Le Petit Café<br />

(2 Haga Nygata, tel: +46 (0)31 127 191),<br />

all chintzy wallpaper and vintage chairs.<br />

To experience it for yourself, follow<br />

Larsson’s example and start in Mauritz<br />

Kaff e, the city’s longest-running coff ee<br />

34 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />

shop. “I opened this place 34 years ago,”<br />

says Tord Mauritz Wetter, the charismatic,<br />

white-haired owner/manager. “But this is an<br />

old company,” he adds, as if three decades<br />

of business made him a newbie. “My great<br />

grandfather, Mauritz Svensson, started<br />

importing coff ee to Gothenburg in 1888.<br />

We’re still doing the same, importing from<br />

Ethiopia, East Africa and Indonesia, but<br />

whereas he was selling to shops, we serve<br />

it here.” Wetter says that the popularity of<br />

coff ee in Sweden started with King Charles<br />

XII. “He went on a trip to Turkey and there<br />

he learned to love coff ee. By 1800 or so,<br />

because of him, coff ee became a big thing<br />

in Sweden. And now it’s very big.”<br />

Wetter bakes his own bread and fruit<br />

buns on the premises, and customers can<br />

also buy beans here. Like many in the trade,<br />

Wetter believes in roasting and grinding your<br />

own beans at home, and sells them in their<br />

raw, green state. Speaking to him it quickly<br />

becomes clear that leaving ground coff ee to<br />

sit around is a no-no: “Old coff ee loses all of<br />

the natural aromas!” I dip my hand into the<br />

pile of beans that are about to be ground for<br />

the espresso machine; they’re toasty-warm,<br />

having emerged from the small roasting<br />

oven just moments earlier.<br />

IN THE EARLY 1970S Wetter took a trip<br />

to Rome and brought the espresso bar<br />

concept back to Gothenburg. “We imported<br />

the Italian way of making coff ee, so to<br />

speak,” he laughs. To the uninitiated, that<br />

means no seats, just high tables at which to<br />

drink your espresso fast, Roma-style. “So<br />

we were the fi rst,” he continues. “Some 20<br />

years later, in the 1990s, the other coff ee<br />

bars came along, like da Matteo.”


PHOTOS © TIM WHITE<br />

Left, Le Petit<br />

Café, one of the<br />

Old Town’s oldschool<br />

options<br />

THE BUZZ | TASTE BUDS<br />

Clockwise from top<br />

left, Adam at Doppio,<br />

Mauritz Kaff e, da<br />

Matteo’s bakery, Café<br />

Kringlan, Bar Centro<br />

MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 35


THE BUZZ | TASTE BUDS<br />

FANCY A FIKA?<br />

FIVE OF THE BEST<br />

PLACES TO STOP<br />

FOR A COFFEE<br />

IN GOTHENBURG<br />

It’s a short walk from Mauritz to one of<br />

da Matteo’s three locations, tucked away<br />

off the hip little shopping street of Viktoria<br />

Passagen (14 Södra Larmgatan, tel: +46<br />

(0)31 774 2881). It’s bigger than Mauritz,<br />

and bright white with a fast-paced feel. If<br />

the queues are longer than usual today, it’s<br />

because the staff are celebrating the 15th<br />

birthday of this branch by giving away free<br />

cappuccinos to a grateful crowd. Overseeing<br />

the throng is manager Pernilla Gard, a<br />

25-year-old star of the Swedish coff ee<br />

scene. She competes as part of Sweden’s<br />

National Barista Team, which triumphed in<br />

2010’s Nordic Barista Cup. “Hopefully we<br />

36 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />

➳ BAR ITALIA<br />

These second-generation Italians couldn’t<br />

be more passionate about their coff ee bar.<br />

They haven’t closed for a single day in fi ve<br />

years of business, and the staff say they get<br />

together for lunch even on their days off .<br />

7 Prinsgatan<br />

will win again in August <strong>2011</strong> and make it to<br />

the world championships,” says Gard, who<br />

also off ers me a tour of da Matteo’s nearby<br />

micro-roastery and bakery.<br />

She introduces Per Nordby, the roast<br />

master, who shyly confi rms that it’s his<br />

name on many of the award certifi cates<br />

lining da Matteo’s walls. “Meeting our<br />

suppliers is important,” explains Gard. “So<br />

Per has been out to Kenya, Rwanda, Uganda<br />

and Brazil, and I have gone to Ethiopia. We’re<br />

a small business buying in small quantities,<br />

but we try to create a direct relationship with<br />

the farmers in the countries that supply us<br />

and make sure they get what they deserve.”<br />

➳ CAFE HUSAREN<br />

Husaren’s cinnamon buns are the size of<br />

your head, and popular with students<br />

as a nutritionally questionable alternative<br />

to a proper meal. Great coff ee, but Husaren<br />

lacks the quirkiness of other Old Town cafés.<br />

28 Haga Nygata, tel: +46 (0)31 136 378


PHOTOS © TIM WHITE<br />

➳ CAFE KRINGLAN<br />

They don’t come any cuter or cosier than<br />

this tiny Old Town café packed with the<br />

young and the beautiful. The counter is piled<br />

high with pastries and the benches covered<br />

with handmade cushions.<br />

13 Haga Nygata, tel: +46 (0)31 130 908<br />

Sweden may well trace its coff ee history<br />

back to the 19th century, but, says Gard,<br />

“In the past fi ve years the coff ee culture in<br />

Gothenburg has really taken off .” Like Wetter,<br />

she recommends a DIY approach: “Have<br />

your own grinder at home, and make sure<br />

the beans haven’t been roasted for too long.<br />

If they’re too dark, they’ve lost their aroma.”<br />

Walking through the da Matteo roasting<br />

house, Gard shows off the huge industrial<br />

roasting machine. “This is a new type of<br />

roaster; we’re one of the fi rst in Europe<br />

to have it,” she says proudly. “It’s the<br />

Loring SmartRoast – one of the most<br />

environmentally friendly machines.”<br />

➳ CIGARREN<br />

Bringing together two of Sweden’s greatest<br />

passions – drinking good coff ee and<br />

smoking good tobacco – this small café<br />

dedicates half of its fl oor space to a vast<br />

cigar humidor.<br />

6 Järntorget, tel: +46 (0)31 141 560<br />

Environmental responsibility is a factor<br />

throughout the Gothenburg coff ee scene,<br />

and the subject crops up again at Doppio<br />

(7 Krokslättsgatan, tel: +46 (0)31 425 666)<br />

while speaking to Australian co-owner/<br />

manager Adam Norman.<br />

“In Australia I found some places were<br />

concentrating on how the coff ee was<br />

sourced almost to the exclusion of what<br />

it actually tasted like,” says Norman, in<br />

between operating an espresso machine<br />

and chatting with regulars in fl uent Swedish.<br />

“We have Fairtrade coff ee here and it tastes<br />

excellent. I want coff ee to be Fairtrade and<br />

full-bodied, so I’ve worked hard to make<br />

THE BUZZ | TASTE BUDS<br />

➳ BAR CENTRO<br />

Lots of local coff ee lovers maintain that<br />

Bar Centro, a sparse, no-nonsense<br />

espresso bar, serves the tastiest coff ee<br />

in Gothenburg. It’s certainly up there<br />

with the best of them.<br />

31 Kyrkogatan, tel: +46 (0)31 711 0027<br />

Clockwise from far<br />

left, no-nonsense<br />

Bar Centro, Swedishstyle<br />

fi ka treats, the<br />

environmentally<br />

conscious Doppio,<br />

Tord Mauritz Wetter,<br />

a 34-year veteran of<br />

Gothenburg's thriving<br />

café scene<br />

sure that winning the moral high ground has<br />

never taken the focus away from the taste.”<br />

For Norman, making money isn’t the<br />

primary appeal of running a coff ee shop,<br />

an attitude that chimes well with the<br />

Gothenburg lifestyle. “We didn’t want to<br />

just be the owners counting the money.<br />

We wanted this to be a place people come<br />

to because of how it makes them feel. In<br />

Sweden, I fi nd there’s more emphasis on<br />

the spirit in which you do things, rather than<br />

how much money you make doing them.”<br />

Great coff ee, ethically sourced and expertly<br />

prepared? That’s the Swedish way.<br />

Sophy Grimshaw<br />

MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 37


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THE BUZZ | TASTE BUDS<br />

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MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 39


THE BUZZ | TASTE BUDS<br />

MENU<br />

The real taste of Bologna<br />

First of all, a warning. Visitors to Bologna should know that asking for a dish of spaghetti<br />

Bolognese in most of the city’s restaurants will result in plenty of withering looks, but not<br />

a lot to eat. In fact, the dish that’s a fi rm favourite at family dinners the world over just<br />

doesn’t exist in its so-called home town. But don’t panic – you can rest assured that you<br />

won’t miss its meaty, tomatoey goodness for long.<br />

Widely considered the Italian capital of gastronomy, Bologna is currently enjoying<br />

a remarkable revival of its historic culinary traditions. As many as 27 authentic recipes<br />

for local dishes have been registered at the city’s Chamber of Commerce, housed in the<br />

delightful 13th-century Palazzo della Mercanzia, and there are historic food shops and<br />

restaurants dotted throughout town. Family-run for generations, these old-style trattorias<br />

rub shoulders with a new breed of restaurants and delicatessens where every last detail has<br />

been carefully crafted for your culinary delight.<br />

We’ve put together a menu of our favourite Bolognese specialities, along with tips on where<br />

to try or buy them. So loosen your belt, and prepare to enjoy…<br />

ANTIPASTO<br />

Mortadella<br />

Sublime in sandwiches, Bologna’s famous aromatic sausage is also irresistible on its own,<br />

either fi nely sliced or chopped into cubes. Often known simply as “Bologna”, this slowcooked<br />

sausage dates back to Roman times when myrtle was used for fl avour. During the<br />

Middle Ages more spices were added, and it became a favourite at court banquets. Word of<br />

the city’s sausage spread across the generations, and it was fi rst exported to America and<br />

the rest of Europe as early as the 17th century.<br />

A good place to try mortadella and other authentic local delicacies is the recently opened<br />

restaurant Magnabulàgna (2B Via de Pepoli, tel: +39 051 234 126), just off Piazza Santo<br />

Stefano, one of Bologna’s most attractive squares. Or, if you’d like to prepare it yourself,<br />

buy it from Tamburini (1 Via Caprarie, tel: +39 051 234 726), a historic, family-run deli that<br />

continues to thrive 150 years after it was founded.<br />

40 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11


PHOTOS © GETTY, PHOTOLIBRARY<br />

THE BUZZ | TASTE BUDS<br />

PRIMI<br />

Tortellini & tagliatelle<br />

Pride of place on the Bologna dinner table goes to deep, yellow pasta. While the<br />

commonplace tagliatelle al ragù (ribbon pasta with meaty sauce) was the inspiration behind<br />

spaghetti Bolognese, tortellini in brodo (meat-fi lled pasta in broth) is generally reserved for<br />

special occasions. Both varieties have been around for more than fi ve centuries and have<br />

curious origins: a sensual contemplation of the female navel supposedly resulted in the<br />

delicate shape of tortellini, while tagliatelle was invented in the 15th century for society lady<br />

Lucrezia Borgia’s wedding feast, inspired by her luscious hair.<br />

The role of sfoglino – skilled pasta maker – is much sought after and there’s a waiting list<br />

for the professional courses run by TV chef Alessandra Spisni at her Vecchia Scuola<br />

Bolognese cookery school (49 Via Malvasia, tel: +39 051 649 1576, lavecchiascuola.com).<br />

The half-day introduction to pasta courses can still be booked at the last minute though.<br />

SECONDI<br />

Carrello dei bolliti con salsa verde<br />

When it comes to the main course there’s not quite such a consensus of opinion, but<br />

old-school votes go to the carrello dei bolliti (trolley of mixed, boiled meats). In traditional<br />

trattorias like the family-run Da Bertino (55 Via Lame, tel: +39 051 522 230) an old-fashioned<br />

stainless-steel serving trolley containing steaming cuts of meat cooked in broth is wheeled<br />

to your table and sliced in front of you. All sorts of sauces are off ered too, the most popular<br />

being salsa verde, made to a time-honoured recipe with parsley, capers, anchovy and garlic.<br />

Another tasty main course that’s also a registered recipe is cotoletta alla Bolognese: a slab of<br />

veal topped with ham and Parmesan, coated in breadcrumbs then fried in butter.<br />

MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 41


THE BUZZ | TASTE BUDS<br />

CONTORNO<br />

Friggione<br />

Ideal with bolliti and delicious alone, this sumptuous side dish – a smooth and creamy<br />

blend of white onions and tomatoes, slow-cooked in lard – is a real treat for the taste buds.<br />

While the offi cial recipe, which dates from 1886, calls for a high proportion of onion,<br />

today’s chefs tend to use rather more tomato than their predecessors, and some even<br />

add red pepper for a deeper colour and more of a tang. Tucked away down a tiny alley near<br />

the market, Trattoria Gianni (18 Via Clavature, tel: +39 051 229 434) is a great<br />

choice for authentic friggione, and all the other dishes mentioned in our menu.<br />

DOLCE<br />

Certosino<br />

Yet another recipe that dates back several centuries – at least to medieval times, when<br />

it was known as panspeziale – this fruitcake was later named after the 18th-century monks<br />

of the Certosa monastery, who baked it for the future Pope Benedetto XIV. Made with<br />

a dense mix of candied fruit, almonds, pine nuts, chocolate and cinnamon, it’s always been<br />

considered a typical Christmas food, but in recent years local bakers have made it all year<br />

round. There are two Paolo Atti bakeries in central Bologna (7 Via Caprarie, tel: +39 051 220<br />

425 and 6A Via Drapperie, tel: +39 051 233 349), both of which sell certosino in souvenir<br />

boxes based on the original design used around a century ago.<br />

VINI<br />

Not as well known for its wines as some other Italian regions, Emilia Romagna is steadily<br />

making a name for itself. So, what to drink with a traditional meal? For starters, go for<br />

a light and lively Pignoletto. This crisp white is also considered ideal with tortellini, but when<br />

it comes to the robust fl avours of the meaty main course, most Bolognese diners would opt<br />

for a full-bodied Sangiovese, while a glass of Albana Passito with a chunk of certosino will<br />

round off the meal perfectly. Albana is the region’s only wine to bear the DOCG guarantee<br />

and is the fi rst Italian white to gain such a prestigious European hallmark.<br />

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42 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />

PHOTO © J GRAHAM


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THE BUZZ | TASTE BUDS<br />

Maria Mulata<br />

BERLIN<br />

The beauty of Neukölln is that it still hasn’t<br />

become as expensive as the trendier<br />

suburbs of Mitte or Prenzlauer Berg,<br />

and yet its restaurants and bars are just<br />

as fun as any of Berlin’s more famous<br />

neighbourhoods. Take Maria Mulata,<br />

tucked away down a side street just off<br />

Sonnenallee. From the outside you might<br />

easily assume this was just another<br />

Spanish restaurant, but step inside and<br />

you’ll discover a cosy yet modern hideaway<br />

that’s a long way from the traditional tapas<br />

bar – comics cover the walls and diners can<br />

relax in leather armchairs as they eat.<br />

The tapas is delicious, covering<br />

a broad range from the traditional (both<br />

the chorizo and the patatas bravas with<br />

aioli deserve special mention) to the more<br />

inventive (make sure you try the dates<br />

wrapped in bacon). But don’t stop with our<br />

Spring<br />

PARIS<br />

The French capital’s latest outpost of<br />

culinary cool is not for picky eaters –<br />

there’s no à la carte at Spring, and don’t<br />

even think about asking for a vegetarian<br />

option. Instead, the restaurant off ers one<br />

set menu at lunch (€38) and another<br />

at dinner (€64), with Chicago-born<br />

Daniel Rose’s chef-knows-best method<br />

kicking seasonality up to a whole new<br />

level. Scouring Paris’s food markets for<br />

inspiration, Rose creates unrepeatable<br />

one-off s, such as smoked tomatoes,<br />

thyme sorbet and peachy pink veal.<br />

They’re proving pretty popular – you’ll<br />

need to reserve seats for lunch a week in<br />

advance, and for dinner two to three<br />

months earlier than that.<br />

If your forward planning doesn’t stretch<br />

that far, pop down to Spring’s wine bar,<br />

Buvette. Open in the evenings only, the<br />

bar doesn’t take reservations and the wise<br />

arrive at 7pm sharp. It’s a little more rustic,<br />

and diners are encouraged to order tapas-<br />

44 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />

recommendations – the staff are incredibly<br />

friendly and will be more than happy to<br />

suggest their favourites from the menu,<br />

along with wine to match.<br />

All dishes are well priced and many<br />

come in at under €5, so it’s easy to see<br />

why Maria Mulata is so popular with<br />

style plates at their own pace, such as thinly<br />

sliced lomito bellota (Spanish dry-cured<br />

sausage, €9) or sizzling seared apricots<br />

stuff ed with unctuous duck (€8).<br />

Or, if you’d rather eat elsewhere, opt for<br />

a gourmet picnic from Spring Boutique,<br />

just down the street (52 Rue de l’Arbre Sec).<br />

There’s a charcuterie and cheese counter,<br />

Berlin’s Spanish community. Its lively,<br />

friendly atmosphere will draw you in, but<br />

you’ll keep coming back because the<br />

portions are big and the prices are small.<br />

88 Wildenbruchstrasse, Neukölln,<br />

tel: +49 (0)163 918 9597, mariamulata.de<br />

Lucy Higgins<br />

and the shelves are lined with chutneys, tins<br />

of sea urchin roe and mind-blowing Jean-<br />

Charles Rochoux chocolate bars. Almost<br />

every bottle of wine has a tasting price,<br />

meaning you can sip a glass at the bar,<br />

then buy a bottle to take home.<br />

6 Rue Bailleul, tel: +33 (0)1 4596 0572,<br />

springparis.fr Kathryn Tomasetti<br />

PHOTOS © OLIVIA RUTHERFORD AND UTE HAUFE


Potsdam – City of Film <strong>2011</strong><br />

Movie history has been written in Potsdam-Babelsberg for nearly 100 years. Names such as<br />

Marlene Dietrich and Fritz Lang stand for the past; Natalie Portman and Quentin Tarantino<br />

are representative of the present day studios. The Babelsberg Film Park, as a theme park, is<br />

both stage and shop window of this media city. In the oldest museum of fi lm in Germany,<br />

the visitor can learn more about the people both in front of and behind the camera.<br />

The ‘<strong>2011</strong> – City of Film’ theme year will be celebrating Potsdam with a plethora of events<br />

such as Film Locations of the Month, the espionage fi lm night on the Glienicke Bridge<br />

(photo) and lots of other different attractions besides.<br />

www.reiseland-brandenburg.de | brandenburg-tourism.com and potsdam-tourism.com


PRAGUE!<br />

It’s really worth it<br />

Great atmosphere, fantastic people, lots of fun.<br />

Prague is great, come and see it!<br />

Paul Stamp / MANCHESTER<br />

www.praguewelcome.com


PRAGUE<br />

BLOSSOMING<br />

IN BEAUTY<br />

As winter thaws, one of Europe’s best-loved cities, the Czech<br />

capital of Prague, is preparing to spring back into life.<br />

FOR YEARS, PRAGUE has been one of<br />

the most visited tourist destinations, with<br />

millions coming to enjoy its remarkable<br />

history and architecture and rich selection<br />

of culture and entertainment. In addition<br />

to the largest historical city reserve listed<br />

in the UNESCO World Heritage list, Prague<br />

boasts many other attractions. In spring<br />

and summer, the city parks and historical<br />

gardens are open; the Vltava River is<br />

traversed by sightseeing steamboats; and<br />

cultural institutions have full programmes,<br />

guaranteeing an unforgettable visit.<br />

Festive atmosphere<br />

The beginning of the tourist season has<br />

traditionally been associated with Easter.<br />

For the entire month of April, the Old Town<br />

Square blossoms into a colourful garden,<br />

with Easter goodies, traditional crafts and a<br />

festive atmosphere.<br />

A walk round the well-preserved historical<br />

city centre is a must. The so-called Royal<br />

Way is the coronation procession route<br />

that Czech kings took from the Old Town to<br />

Prague Castle, and this is still where the most<br />

impressive views of Prague’s monuments<br />

can be enjoyed. The palace gardens – newly<br />

restored thanks in part to an initiative of Prince<br />

Charles – are also worth visiting.<br />

Entertainment for everybody<br />

An evening jazz cruise down the Vltava<br />

River is a remarkable experience. Or you can<br />

travel by steam boat to the largest Zoo in the<br />

Czech Republic, in Troja, whose inhabitants<br />

include a male gorilla, Kiburi, and a<br />

Rothschild giraff e cub born earlier this year.<br />

Prague is also renowned for its<br />

rich cultural life. The 66th year of the<br />

international music festival Prague Spring<br />

is worth seeing, with a festive presentation<br />

of Mahler’s Symphony No. 8 as its highlight.<br />

Lovers of classical music will enjoy the third<br />

year of the Easter Festival. And pop music<br />

fans will appreciate the United Islands of<br />

Prague music festival, held on the Vltava<br />

River’s islands and embankments.<br />

Sports-lovers will not lack for excitement<br />

either, with biking, horseback-riding and<br />

tennis and, for the golfers, 17 courses<br />

located within 50 km of Prague.<br />

FESTIVALS<br />

EASTER FESTIVALS<br />

Classical and jazz<br />

music focused on<br />

spiritual pieces<br />

associated with Easter.<br />

Prague, 19–30 April<br />

<strong>2011</strong>, www.fok.cz<br />

PRAGUE SPRING<br />

The oldest Czech<br />

music festival, with<br />

leading international<br />

ensembles and soloists.<br />

Prague, 12 May–4 June<br />

<strong>2011</strong>, www.festival.cz<br />

UNITED ISLANDS<br />

OF PRAGUE<br />

A multi-genre festival<br />

with the absolute best<br />

of contemporary<br />

world music.<br />

Prague, 23–25<br />

June <strong>2011</strong>,<br />

www. unitedislands.cz<br />

SUMMER LETNÁ<br />

International festival of<br />

new circus and theatre<br />

in one of the most<br />

beautiful city parks.<br />

Prague, 21 August–4<br />

September <strong>2011</strong>,<br />

www.letniletna.cz<br />

CONCERTS<br />

ROGER WATERS<br />

The legendary founder<br />

of Pink Floyd is coming<br />

on his latest tour,<br />

The Wall Live.<br />

Prague, O2 Arena,<br />

15 & 16 April <strong>2011</strong>,<br />

www.rogerwaters.com<br />

ADVERTISING PROMOTION<br />

SADE<br />

The popular British<br />

singer’s fi rst tour in 17<br />

years will stop in Prague.<br />

Prague, O2 Arena, 14 May<br />

<strong>2011</strong>, www.sade.com<br />

SUZI QUATRO<br />

The American rocker<br />

and 1970s-80s icon<br />

is coming to play her<br />

greatest hits.<br />

Prague, Prumyslový<br />

palác, 27 May <strong>2011</strong>,<br />

www.suziquatro.com<br />

BRYAN ADAMS<br />

The American rocker<br />

and 1970s-80s icon<br />

is coming to play her<br />

greatest hits.<br />

Prague, O2 Arena,<br />

19 June <strong>2011</strong>,<br />

www.bryanadams.com<br />

EXHIBITIONS<br />

THE GOLDEN SIXTIES<br />

An entertaining look at<br />

this period which led<br />

to the occupation of<br />

Czechoslovakia.<br />

Prague, Vítkov National<br />

Monument, until 15 May<br />

<strong>2011</strong>, www.zlatasedesata.cz<br />

KAREL ŠKRÉTA<br />

(1610-1674): HIS<br />

TIME AND WORK<br />

An exhibition of the<br />

works of the most<br />

important Czech<br />

Baroque painter.<br />

Prague, Wallenstein Riding<br />

Hall, until 10 April <strong>2011</strong>,<br />

www.skreta.cz


PHOTO © MATTHEW TELLER<br />

NEW<br />

ROUTE<br />

LEADING<br />

THE WAY<br />

FORWARD THINKING AND<br />

ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY,<br />

JORDAN IS EMERGING AS<br />

A SURPRISE STAR OF<br />

SUSTAINABLE TOURISM<br />

MATTHEW TELLER<br />

FEATURES | AMMAN<br />

MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 49


FEATURES | AMMAN<br />

Right, the Dana Valley<br />

nature reserve. Previous<br />

page, the Siq canyon at<br />

the ancient city of Petra<br />

WHEN YOU THINK of eco-tourism you<br />

might dream of an Algarve eco-village,<br />

trekking in the Alps, or whale watching in<br />

Scotland. You probably wouldn’t think of<br />

a holiday in one of the world’s most waterpoor<br />

nations, where around 90% of the land<br />

is classifi ed as arid desert. But then I’ve been<br />

visiting Jordan for more than 15 years, and<br />

it still manages to surprise me.<br />

50 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />

The Middle East is coming late to the<br />

eco-tourism party. While showy Gulf<br />

destinations trumpet the latest mega<br />

scheme, little Jordan has been quietly<br />

getting on with developing environmentally<br />

friendly, sustainable tourism from the<br />

grass roots up. At the vanguard has<br />

been the country’s Royal Society for the<br />

Conservation of Nature, or RSCN.<br />

Founded in 1966 to regulate hunting, the<br />

RSCN campaigned throughout the 1970s<br />

and 1980s on behalf of the Arabian oryx,<br />

an endangered desert antelope brought to<br />

the edge of extinction by hunting. In the<br />

process it slowly transformed itself into an<br />

organisation of dedicated conservationists.<br />

Today the RSCN forms one of the<br />

region’s most determined and effective


PHOTO © PHOTOLIBRARY<br />

green lobbies, pressing the Jordanian<br />

government for preservation of the country’s<br />

fragile – and shrinking – natural habitats.<br />

Since the 1990s it has expanded into<br />

sustainable tourism as a way to support its<br />

conservation goals, gaining international<br />

recognition in October 2010 when the Wild<br />

Jordan tourism unit won the Guardian<br />

newspaper’s Ethical Travel Award.<br />

It’s worth dropping by the Wild Jordan<br />

information centre, located just a stroll from<br />

Rainbow Street, Amman’s buzziest district<br />

of bookshops and craft outlets. Perched<br />

among historic, century-old villas on the<br />

slopes of Jabal Amman – jabal means hill,<br />

and this city has lots of them – its lively<br />

Wild Jordan Café (Othman bin Affan Street,<br />

tel: +962 (0)6 463 3542) is a lovely place to<br />

FEATURES | AMMAN<br />

JORDAN<br />

HAS QUIETLY<br />

DEVELOPED<br />

ITS OWN<br />

SUSTAINABLE<br />

TOURISM FROM<br />

THE GRASS<br />

ROOTS UP<br />

stop. The café does sensational drinks and<br />

smoothies – don’t miss the fresh-pressed<br />

frozen lemonade with mint – and is also<br />

one of the few places in Amman to make<br />

a selling point of its organic food, with<br />

ingredients sourced locally. You can book<br />

wilderness excursions around Jordan, learn<br />

more about the RSCN’s conservation work,<br />

and pick up craft items and handmade<br />

MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 51


FEATURES | AMMAN<br />

silver jewellery at the Nature Shop. But the<br />

rear terrace is the real draw: visit at sunset<br />

for amazing panoramic views of the city.<br />

Yet 21st-century green thinking doesn’t<br />

stop at the city limits. A three-hour drive<br />

south of Amman lies the ancient “lost city”<br />

of Petra, once capital of a trading empire<br />

that stretched into Syria and Arabia. Even<br />

here, among tombs and temples carved into<br />

a hidden mountain valley, environmental<br />

awareness is having an impact. For years<br />

the authorities struggled to provide suitable<br />

toilet facilities within this vast, dusty<br />

UNESCO-protected site. Technology<br />

has, thankfully, caught up: today, as you<br />

stroll between the monuments, you’ll<br />

spot environmentally friendly eco-toilets<br />

distributed discreetly along the main path.<br />

But it’s in Jordan’s less-visited wilderness<br />

areas that you can start to get under the skin<br />

of this unsung eco-destination. Distances<br />

are small, landscapes are varied and there’s<br />

a good infrastructure for rural tourism. Only<br />

75km north of Amman, the modest market<br />

town of Ajloun stands amid dense forests<br />

at 1,000m above sea level: up here the air is<br />

fresh and the scenery is green and beautiful.<br />

Ajloun’s 800-year-old castle, built by<br />

Saladin’s armies to defend against the<br />

Crusaders, is a popular attraction, visible for<br />

miles around silhouetted on a hilltop. Here,<br />

you can spend a fi ne afternoon roaming<br />

around its old rooms and climbing stone<br />

staircases to emerge at the highest point<br />

of the ruins for a spectacular view over the<br />

orchards, olive groves and country villages.<br />

It may have slipped your attention,<br />

but <strong>2011</strong> is International Year of Forests,<br />

so it’s the perfect time to book a stay in<br />

the RSCN’s Ajloun Forest Reserve (from<br />

52 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />

JD59; tel: +962 (0)6 463 3589, rscn.org.jo),<br />

outside the town. Quiet country lanes lead<br />

to the reserve buildings, set in the heart of<br />

rolling Mediterranean woodland – mainly<br />

evergreen oak, with pistachio, carob and<br />

wild strawberry trees among the olives.<br />

WHEN I ARRIVED, Louai Al-Nimry,<br />

tourism manager at the reserve, was<br />

waiting to welcome me with a glass of<br />

sage tea and a run-through of the reserve’s<br />

fauna, which includes some very European<br />

names (foxes, badgers and wild boar)<br />

alongside wildcats, striped hyena and<br />

Asiatic jackals. Roe deer, previously extinct<br />

here, now roam freely within the reserve.<br />

Louai’s enthusiasm is infectious; born and<br />

raised in the adjacent village of Orjan, he<br />

explained how he’d rejected job offers from<br />

big hotels to come back to the countryside.<br />

This kind of attitude permeates the<br />

whole place. All the food served at dinner<br />

and breakfast is locally produced, from the<br />

yoghurt and goat’s cheese to the chicken,<br />

fresh-baked bread, wild herbs and fruit jam.<br />

One of the reserve’s many walking trails<br />

leads to Rasoun village, where I stopped<br />

in at the Soap House, an RSCN project to<br />

employ local women making luxury olive-oil<br />

soap. Manager Rima Hamzat showed me<br />

around, explaining how village families are<br />

benefi ting from this new source of income.<br />

“Before this project we didn’t do anything,”<br />

she told me. “Now our girls are able to study<br />

at university and have work in our village.”<br />

Far to the east, in Jordan’s open, stony<br />

deserts, the Azraq oasis, which attracts<br />

migrating birds in their thousands, is now<br />

protected as a wetland habitat, home to<br />

TELLER<br />

MATTHEW PHOTOLIBRARY, SUPERSTOCK,<br />

Clockwise from top,<br />

©<br />

an Arabian oryx, the<br />

Azraq wetlands, Aljoun’s<br />

800-year-old castle PHOTOS


AZRAQ OASIS<br />

ATTRACTS MIGRATING<br />

BIRDS IN THEIR<br />

THOUSANDS, AND IS<br />

NOW A PROTECTED<br />

ENVIRONMENT<br />

FEATURES | AMMAN<br />

MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 53


FEATURES | AMMAN<br />

unique fauna from water buffalo to tiny,<br />

silver killifi sh. The RSCN has converted an<br />

old British army fi eld hospital into tourist<br />

lodgings, bringing in a local Chechen<br />

family to prepare home-cooked meals for<br />

overnight visitors from their repertoire<br />

of folk recipes. Azraq’s traditional salt<br />

industry has been decimated, and the<br />

RSCN has been working against a<br />

backdrop of economic depression to help<br />

local women produce craft items for sale in<br />

nature shops around Jordan, giving them<br />

an alternative source of local income.<br />

It’s a classic RSCN way of working –<br />

conservation married with socio-economic<br />

development. As conservationist Chris<br />

Johnson explains: “This is how we try to<br />

work – to make sure the people dependent<br />

on the land are the main benefi ciaries of<br />

alternative livelihood programmes. We<br />

go in as equals, as partners.”<br />

I SWUNG SOUTH towards the RSCN’s<br />

fl agship scheme at Dana, a previously<br />

overlooked village in the mountains<br />

above Petra. For the past 15 years a project<br />

to protect a tract of land centred on the<br />

majestic Dana Valley has won international<br />

acclaim, not least for its success in<br />

pioneering responsible tourism.<br />

54 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />

Clockwise from here,<br />

Dana village, one of its<br />

residents, carved cave<br />

façades at Petra<br />

“THE PEOPLE<br />

DEPENDENT<br />

ON THE LAND<br />

ARE THE MAIN<br />

BENEFICIARIES”<br />

Dana consistently takes your breath<br />

away. From the low-key guesthouse at the<br />

top of the valley (from JD59; tel: +962<br />

(0)3 227 0497, rscn.org.jo), designed by<br />

Jordanian architect Ammar Khammash in<br />

the local style, to the solar-powered Feynan<br />

eco-lodge (from JD67; tel: +962 (0)6 464<br />

5580, feynan.com), with no electricity or<br />

road access, guests are guaranteed a unique<br />

experience. Virtually all of the tourismrelated<br />

jobs, from tour guides and rangers<br />

to managers, cooks, receptionists, cleaners<br />

and shop staff are taken by local villagers,<br />

so more than 800 people benefi t directly<br />

from Dana’s success.<br />

ONE OF THE most beautiful walks leads<br />

up to the eloquently named Shag ar-Rish,<br />

or “Canyon of the Feathers”. Setting off<br />

with twinkle-eyed nature guide Abu<br />

Yahya, we rambled amid fl ower-fi lled<br />

meadows, surrounded by the rocky domes<br />

that characterise the Dana heights. As we<br />

reached a pass and began to climb into<br />

the Canyon of the Feathers, Abu Yahya<br />

explained why the place was so named:<br />

not for the raptors that soared overhead,<br />

but for the sharp pinnacles of rock that<br />

fl ank the gorge, like feathers. The summit,<br />

dotted with evidence of settlement by<br />

the Nabateans – the people who built<br />

Petra, just 40km to the south – offered<br />

stupendous, silent vistas.<br />

This is what Jordan does so well these<br />

days: low-impact, sensitively developed,<br />

sustainable tourism, referred to in the<br />

trade as “soft adventure”, but always<br />

with that sense of grass-roots inspiration.<br />

Local tour operators are starting to cater<br />

for this growing market – three of the<br />

most noteworthy are Terhaal (terhaal.<br />

com), Sarha (sarha.jo) and Petra Moon<br />

(petramoon.com), all of whom offer<br />

hiking, trekking, mountain biking and<br />

various other exploratory trips into<br />

Jordan’s wilderness areas.<br />

As Ali Hasasseen, a local nature guide<br />

based at Feynan, explained: “If you follow<br />

the community’s way – their tradition and<br />

religion – you can create opportunity while<br />

preserving your culture. This is what we are<br />

doing. I love my work!”<br />

easyJet flies to...<br />

Amman from London Gatwick.<br />

See our Jordan Basics on page 56.<br />

Book online at easyJet.com<br />

PHOTOS © SUPERSTOCK


Queen Alia International Airport, Jordan’s State of the Art Gateway<br />

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investment and expertise, is in the midst of transforming Queen Alia International Airport (QAIA), under a<br />

25-year concession awarded by the Government of Jordan for the management and redevelopment of<br />

Jordan’s premier hub. One of AIG’s core missions is to deliver high quality service facilities to its guests<br />

and business partners. Looking into the not too distant future; travelers will soon enjoy the amenities of<br />

the all-new and truly world-class QAIA.<br />

The construction of the new terminal is witnessing tangible progress; with the main terminal and first stage<br />

of the passengers piers due to open in mid-2012, which will revolutionize QAIA and better serve our<br />

rapidly growing market.<br />

This landmark US$750m private-sector investment by AIG will deliver spacious passenger facilities,<br />

increased aircraft capacity, an improved road traffic network and leading-edge technologies. On opening,<br />

the new QAIA terminal will play a pivotal role in promoting Jordan as a financial, trade and transportation<br />

hub, positioning Amman as the gateway of choice in the region, building strong global connections and<br />

serving as a source of prosperity and pride for all Jordanians.<br />

Queen Alia International Airport P.O. Box 39052 Amman 11104 Jordan<br />

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FEATURES | AMMAN<br />

JORDAN BASICS<br />

QUICK FACTS<br />

FULL NAME<br />

The Hashemite<br />

Kingdom of Jordan<br />

AREA<br />

92,300km 2<br />

POPULATION<br />

6.4m<br />

LANGUAGE<br />

Arabic (English is<br />

widely spoken)<br />

CAPITAL<br />

Amman<br />

PHONE COUNTRY CODE<br />

+962<br />

TIME<br />

GMT+2 in winter,<br />

GMT+3 in summer<br />

CURRENCY<br />

Jordanian dinar<br />

(known as “JD”)<br />

STORY OF A NATION – THE JORDAN TIMELINE<br />

6000 BC<br />

The world’s oldest<br />

surviving statues are<br />

produced in a Neolithic<br />

settlement at Ain<br />

Ghazal on Amman’s<br />

northeastern outskirts –<br />

tall, androgynous fi gures<br />

with large, painted eyes.<br />

56 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />

1200 BC<br />

After leading the<br />

Israelites through the<br />

wilderness, Moses<br />

climbs Mount Nebo,<br />

southwest of Amman,<br />

to view the Promised<br />

Land. He dies on the<br />

mountain.<br />

HAVE A WORD (OR TWO)<br />

Although Jordan’s offi cial language is Arabic, pretty much everyone connected<br />

with tourism can speak English (and often a handful of other languages as<br />

well), so you’re unlikely to have trouble getting your message across. However,<br />

mastering a few basic phrases will score you brownie points with the locals.<br />

HELLO (INFORMAL) MAR-HA-BA<br />

HELLO (FORMAL) ASSA-LA-MWA-LAY-KOOM<br />

GOOD MORNING SA-BAH-IL-KHAYR<br />

GOOD AFTERNOON/EVENING MA-SA-IL-KHAYR<br />

THANK YOU SHOO-KRUN<br />

GOODBYE MAA-SALAM-EH<br />

DON’T MIX THEM UP!<br />

AMMAN (AMM-AN) CAPITAL CITY OF JORDAN<br />

OMAN (OH-MAAN) ARABIAN COUNTRY NEAR DUBAI<br />

106 AD<br />

The Nabatean kingdom,<br />

with its capital at<br />

Petra, is absorbed into<br />

the Roman Empire.<br />

Petra enters a golden<br />

age of culture and<br />

sophistication.<br />

661<br />

After the Prophet<br />

Muhammad’s death<br />

in 632, the Umayyad<br />

dynasty establishes<br />

itself in Damascus,<br />

building palaces and<br />

hunting lodges as<br />

retreats in the desert.<br />

1100s<br />

Invading Christian<br />

armies from Europe –<br />

the Crusaders – build<br />

castles in Jordan to<br />

fortify their occupation,<br />

only to suff er expulsion<br />

by local resistance<br />

forces under Saladin.


GETTING<br />

AROUND IN<br />

AMMAN<br />

Amman was originally built on seven<br />

hills, but it now sprawls across a wide<br />

area. In general, east Amman is poorer<br />

and less developed, so you’re likely<br />

to spend most of your time in west<br />

Amman, where almost all the hotels are<br />

located. The map opposite won’t get<br />

you from A to B, but it should at least<br />

give fi rst-time visitors a rough idea of<br />

where the major areas are and how they<br />

relate to one another. Happy exploring!<br />

SWEIFIYA<br />

A glamorous quarter of fashion<br />

boutiques and shopping malls.<br />

AIM FOR ➳ WAKALAT STREET<br />

ABDOUN<br />

Head to this ritzy, upscale area for<br />

restaurants, cafés and bars.<br />

AIM FOR ➳ ABDOUN CIRCLE<br />

SHMEISANI<br />

This district of banks and offi ces has<br />

some popular pavement cafés. Take<br />

a trip up here and rub shoulders with<br />

local workers on their break.<br />

AIM FOR ➳ ELIA ABU MADI STREET<br />

1870s<br />

Persecution of Muslims<br />

in Russia leads to waves<br />

of refugees entering<br />

Syria and Jordan, with<br />

many settling in the<br />

then-abandoned Roman<br />

ruins at Amman.<br />

1917<br />

Prince Faisal and British<br />

offi cer TE Lawrence (of<br />

Arabia) launch the Arab<br />

Revolt, successfully<br />

ejecting Ottoman<br />

Turkish armies from<br />

the Arab lands of the<br />

Middle East.<br />

JABAL AMMAN<br />

A broad, hilly area of villas, apartment<br />

blocks, offi ces and embassies, marked<br />

by numbered traffi c intersections from<br />

1st to 8th Circle. Off 1st Circle is a string<br />

of sociable, buzzy cafés with a pleasant<br />

neighbourhood vibe – well worth a stop<br />

on your travels around the city.<br />

AIM FOR ➳ RAINBOW STREET<br />

JABAL AL-WEIBDEH<br />

A quiet, residential neighbourhood<br />

which is home to lots of churches and<br />

cultural institutions, including Jordan’s<br />

National Gallery.<br />

AIM FOR ➳ PARIS SQUARE<br />

1967<br />

Israel invades and<br />

occupies Jordanianheld<br />

territory on the<br />

West Bank of the River<br />

Jordan, including holy<br />

sites in Jerusalem and<br />

Bethlehem.<br />

1994<br />

King Hussein of Jordan<br />

and Israeli prime<br />

minister Yitzhak Rabin<br />

sign a full peace treaty.<br />

FEATURES | AMMAN<br />

JABAL AL-QALA’A<br />

“Citadel Hill” looms high above<br />

Downtown, topped by the remains of<br />

a Roman temple and an early Islamic<br />

palace complex.<br />

AIM FOR ➳ THE CITADEL<br />

DOWNTOWN<br />

This is without doubt the heart of<br />

the city. You’ll fi nd the Roman theatre<br />

and antiquities here, as well as the<br />

souks and the bustling street life that<br />

comes with them. Any trip to Amman<br />

should include at least one visit to this<br />

popular area.<br />

AIM FOR ➳ KING FAISAL STREET<br />

A NOBLE DYNASTY<br />

JORDAN IS OFFICIALLY “THE HASHEMITE KINGDOM OF JORDAN” (OR “HKJ” ON CAR BUMPER<br />

STICKERS). THE HASHEMITE DYNASTY ORIGINALLY RULED MECCA, THE HOLIEST CITY IN<br />

ISLAM, BUT NOW COMPRISES JORDAN’S ROYAL FAMILY. THE CURRENT KING, ABDULLAH II,<br />

IS THE 43RD-GENERATION DIRECT DESCENDANT OF THE PROPHET MUHAMMAD.<br />

1999<br />

On the death of King<br />

Hussein, his eldest son<br />

accedes to the throne as<br />

King Abdullah II.<br />

MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 57


FEATURES | GENEVA | MORZINE<br />

LATERAL<br />

THINKING<br />

LEAVE THE LIFT QUEUES BEHIND AND DISCOVER<br />

THE FREEDOM OF CROSS-COUNTRY SKIING<br />

58 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />

WILL HIDE


FEATURES | GENEVA | MORZINE<br />

MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 59


FEATURES | GENEVA | MORZINE<br />

THE SNOW LAY crisp and fresh, and there<br />

wasn’t a cloud in the sky. Only a weird,<br />

high-pitched yelling marred a perfect<br />

winter’s day in the Alps as I swooshed along<br />

a path lined with fi r trees. For a few blurry,<br />

disconnected seconds I couldn’t tell where<br />

this terrible sound was coming from. Then<br />

I realised the noise was me.<br />

Some may have called it the pathetic<br />

scream of a big girl’s blouse who, having hit<br />

a patch of ice, was actually speeding up<br />

rather than slowing down or stopping.<br />

I prefer to think of it as a manly whoop,<br />

designed to alert the elderly French<br />

60 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />

gentleman in front of me that his pleasant<br />

stroll was about to be rudely interrupted.<br />

And so it was that I found myself fl at on<br />

my backside calling out, “Je suis desolé,<br />

monsieur!” while said French gent, having<br />

dived into a bank of snow, picked himself<br />

up and dusted off the crust of powder that<br />

covered him from head to foot.<br />

We were in Morzine-Avoriaz, close to the<br />

point where France meets Switzerland near<br />

Geneva, to go cross-country skiing. If you<br />

imagine that this is a sport that’s all about<br />

effortless gliding along snowy trails, think<br />

again – there hadn’t been very much “cross”<br />

YOU CAN<br />

BE ALONE<br />

ON A TRAIL<br />

WHILE THE<br />

DOWNHILL<br />

PISTES ARE<br />

CROWDED<br />

to our day, and instead we’d covered lots of<br />

ups and downs. They don’t mention that in<br />

the brochures, but I was determined that the<br />

hills (and the ice patches) wouldn’t put me off.<br />

Cross-country skiing is a great way of<br />

shaking off that tired, lethargic feeling we all<br />

get after surviving the depressing greyness<br />

of January and February. And it makes for<br />

a fantastic workout too – would you rather be<br />

down your local gym at lunchtime watching<br />

sweaty Brian from accounts on the cross<br />

trainer, or out in the mountains under rich<br />

blue skies getting some proper exercise? It’s<br />

also a good way of cleaning out the mental<br />

cobwebs. There’s something clarifying about<br />

being in the mountains, like being able to<br />

breathe again after a heavy cold, and I fi nd it<br />

a great time to plan ahead and set fresh goals.<br />

On a more practical level, cross-country<br />

skiing beats downhill because the skis and<br />

boots you wear are much lighter than the<br />

clodhoppers you need if you want to be<br />

the next Bode Miller. But be warned – crosscountry<br />

skis are much narrower (just 5cm


PHOTOS © SELLER YAN, ALAMY, CORBIS, PHOTOLIBRARY (PREVIOUS SPREAD)<br />

wide) and they’re not clipped in at the heel,<br />

so they do take some getting used to.<br />

In the past I had only tried “classic”<br />

cross-country skiing – a kind of backwards/<br />

forwards shuffl e where your skis are set<br />

in tracks, which is generally easier for<br />

beginners to pick up but also relatively slow.<br />

This was my fi rst time trying the “skating”<br />

style – quicker but also requiring more<br />

physical effort, as you shift your weight<br />

from side to side like rollerblading each<br />

time you push off. It’s no wonder pro crosscountry<br />

skiers have thigh muscles the size<br />

of a small Balkan nation and form part of<br />

the tiny group of people who actually look<br />

good in brightly coloured Lycra.<br />

I, on the other hand, was wobbling along<br />

wishing I’d turned down that extra helping<br />

of sticky toffee pudding, and thinking that<br />

maybe a few laps around the park at home<br />

would have been a good idea before coming<br />

out here. I was having a lesson with local<br />

instructor François Petitjean and brother<br />

and sister Christian and Erika Rose from<br />

New York, who were over on holiday and<br />

taking a break from downhill.<br />

“What’s the most important thing to<br />

remember?” asked Petitjean as we hopped<br />

off the gondola in the Super Morzine area.<br />

“Looking cool?” I suggested, as a group<br />

of hip snowboarders clattered past.<br />

“Non,” came the deadpan reply. “It’s the<br />

snow plough.” Which, as I was to discover,<br />

was a very fair point.<br />

After our fi rst exercises, which seemed<br />

to mimic the waddle of a penguin, we<br />

were progressing quickly, though my lack<br />

of fi tness showed compared to my two<br />

FEATURES | GENEVA | MORZINE<br />

GOING THE<br />

DISTANCE<br />

➳ STRAP ON YOUR SKIS<br />

FOR EUROPE’S BIGGEST<br />

CROSS-COUNTRY SKI RACE<br />

Do you fancy yourself as a cross-country<br />

ski star? Or maybe just an enthusiastic<br />

amateur? Then head over to the woods<br />

near St Moritz in Switzerland this month<br />

for the race of the year. Thousands<br />

of people take part in the Engadin<br />

Skimarathon, one of the world’s biggest<br />

cross-country ski events, and this year’s<br />

takes place on 13 March.<br />

The competition began in 1969, and<br />

now more than 14,000 people from 35<br />

nations come together to complete<br />

the 42km course. As long as you’ve<br />

registered it’s open to all, so there’s a<br />

good mix of seasoned pros and newer<br />

skiers of all ages. A bonus is that the<br />

valley in which the race takes place is<br />

known for its good weather, with an<br />

average of 322 days of sunshine per year.<br />

All in all, it’s a great day out whether<br />

you’re taking part or just watching.<br />

engadin-skimarathon.ch<br />

MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 61


FEATURES | GENEVA | MORZINE<br />

CROSS-<br />

COUNTRY<br />

SKIERS<br />

DON’T NEED<br />

TO WAIT<br />

FOR LIFTS<br />

younger classmates, especially going uphill.<br />

In fact, if there had to be a low point of the<br />

day it came while being overtaken on<br />

a path by an arthritic Labrador as Erika<br />

and Christian scooted quickly upwards.<br />

By contrast, the high point was lunch on<br />

the sunny terrace of Chez Lenvers (Place<br />

Centrale, tel: +33 (0)4 5074 0130) in Avoriaz:<br />

a plate of tartifl ette (potatoes, cream, bacon<br />

and reblochon cheese) accompanied by<br />

a large, steaming glass of vin chaud.<br />

During the afternoon things started to<br />

click. There are almost 100km of crosscountry<br />

tracks in this area, so you really can<br />

62 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />

have the back country to yourself even when<br />

the pistes are crowded. And while ski and<br />

boot hire average a very reasonable €11 a day,<br />

you don’t even necessarily need a lift pass<br />

– Morzine’s network of free shuttle buses<br />

can drop you at the start of the best tracks,<br />

for example at the bottom of the Vallée de<br />

la Manche. Group lessons with the French<br />

Ski School (esf.net/en) start at €55 a day<br />

including lunch, so it makes an affordable<br />

option if you want to take a break from<br />

throwing yourself downhill.<br />

Over the next few days my style<br />

improved, although I didn’t see any overall<br />

hardening of my thigh muscles into the<br />

sort of shape that would send the female<br />

population of the Alps into a collective<br />

swoon. I will defi nitely be back next year to<br />

give myself a boost through the winter, but I<br />

think I’ll be returning to my favoured classic<br />

style rather than skating, which should at<br />

least allow elderly French gentlemen to enjoy<br />

their afternoon walk without the risk of<br />

serious bodily harm.<br />

Book at airporttransfers.easyjet.com<br />

for a 5% discount on your transfers<br />

easyJet flies to...<br />

Geneva from 46 destinations.<br />

See our insider guide on page 136.<br />

Book online at easyJet.com<br />

PHOTOS © SELLER YAN


FEATURES | FARO<br />

FOR MOST PEOPLE who visit the<br />

Algarve, Faro is little more than an<br />

airport terminal. Each year tourists<br />

land, grab their bags and hurtle towards<br />

Portugal’s sun-soaked beach resorts<br />

without so much as a second thought for<br />

this charming medieval port. But if you’re<br />

prepared to go against the fl ow and do<br />

some exploring, you’ll discover a historic<br />

city with plenty to entertain sun-seekers<br />

on their way to or from the beach.<br />

Flying into the airport, you can’t<br />

help but notice the long line of highrise<br />

buildings that runs through the<br />

city. But don’t be put off – the Cidade<br />

64 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />

FARO FROM<br />

THECROWD<br />

OFTEN OVERLOOKED BY HOLIDAYMAKERS, THIS SMALL BUT<br />

COSMOPOLITAN PORT IS WAITING TO BE DISCOVERED<br />

STEVEN VICKERS<br />

Velha (Old Town) is picture-perfect,<br />

with its intricate buildings, ancient<br />

chapels and winding cobbled streets<br />

making it an ideal place to explore the<br />

city’s fascinating history. The Museu<br />

Arqueológico (Praça Afonso III, tel: +351<br />

289 897 400) is one of the oldest and<br />

most beautiful cultural institutions<br />

in Portugal. Nestled in a domed 16thcentury<br />

convent, it’s home to a peaceful<br />

cloister and, in a nod to Faro’s maritime<br />

history, a remarkable Roman mosaic<br />

depicting Neptune, the god of water.<br />

Incredibly, it was only uncovered in<br />

1976 during restoration work.<br />

Another relic of old Faro is the Sé,<br />

or cathedral, its unlikely mishmash of<br />

gothic, baroque and renaissance styles<br />

telling the story of the city’s past. The<br />

Great Earthquake of 1755 left much<br />

of the original 13th-century structure<br />

in ruins, and the other sections were<br />

simply added over time, resulting in an<br />

unusual building that was never part<br />

of any architect’s plan. The best way<br />

to appreciate it today is by following<br />

the scent of chocolatey, freshly roasted<br />

coffee beans into the sun-dappled Largo<br />

da Sé, a broad, cobbled plaza that’s<br />

lined with rows of fragrant orange trees.


PHOTO © 4CORNERS<br />

Sipping an espresso in a shady corner of<br />

the square, you can properly take in the<br />

half-whitewashed building and ponder<br />

the city’s lucky escape.<br />

Unlike many other towns in the<br />

Algarve, Faro wasn’t too badly damaged<br />

by the earthquake, and it escaped<br />

the ensuing tsunami thanks to the<br />

vast swathes of sand and mud that<br />

protected it from the sea. The natural<br />

sand barriers that stand between Faro<br />

and the Atlantic are still around, and<br />

from spring onwards locals go down<br />

there to swim, sunbathe and unwind.<br />

The most popular, and the only one<br />

you can drive to directly, is Praia de<br />

Faro, a huge spit of golden-yellow sand<br />

that’s bounded by gentle waves on one<br />

side and a tranquil blue lagoon on the<br />

other. Stop in at Camané (tel: +351 289<br />

817 539), an intimate little gourmet<br />

restaurant that sits next to the beach,<br />

to enjoy specialities such as rice with<br />

razor clams and a magnifi cent lobster<br />

stew. The food is fi t for a king – and not<br />

just metaphorically either – the Spanish<br />

monarch is one of a growing list of<br />

celebrities who’ve dined here.<br />

If you want to get even further away<br />

from the crowds, head to the Porta<br />

FEATURES | FARO<br />

Nova pier. From here you can take<br />

a ferry across to the sublime Ilha<br />

Deserta (ilha-deserta.com), part of the<br />

breathtakingly beautiful Ria Formosa<br />

National Park. The most southerly island<br />

off Portugal’s mainland, this deserted<br />

haven stretches for almost 10km, with<br />

little more for visitors to do than enjoy<br />

a leisurely stroll along the boardwalk,<br />

languish in the sun, or watch the local<br />

birdlife – including fl amingos and terns<br />

– from the pristine beaches. If you go<br />

now before the summer rush you’re likely<br />

to have the whole island to yourself. Take<br />

a picnic or eat at the eco-friendly<br />

MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 65


FEATURES | FARO<br />

O Estaminé restaurant (tel: +351 917 811<br />

856) – it’s the only one on the island, and<br />

the chef creates some of the freshest fi sh<br />

dishes you’ll ever taste from his solarpowered<br />

kitchen.<br />

Back in Faro, the food is just as<br />

inspiring. The locals are serious about<br />

eating, and there are countless familyrun<br />

restaurants hugging the edges of the<br />

twisting pedestrian streets. Uphill from the<br />

marina, great icy cabinets of freshly caught<br />

seafood reel people into one of Faro’s oldest<br />

and best. Adega Dois Irmãos (14 Largo<br />

Terreiro do Bispo, tel: +351 289 823 337)<br />

was opened by two brothers (the dois<br />

irmãos) in 1925, and it was serving hearty<br />

local dishes long before mass-market<br />

tourism hit the Algarve.<br />

Another distinctive – but very different<br />

– fl avour of the region comes from Faro’s<br />

deliciously sweet cakes and pastries. The<br />

city has a huge selection of sweet-smelling<br />

pastelarias selling pastéis de nata (custard<br />

tarts), bolos (small cakes) and many other<br />

66 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />

naughty treats. Gardy (16 Rua de Santo<br />

Antonio, tel: +351 289 824 062) is widely<br />

regarded as one of the best – choose your<br />

pastry at the glass counter before taking<br />

a seat at one of the tables sprawled along<br />

the pavement to enjoy your food.<br />

ONCE FED AND CAFFEINATED you’ll be<br />

ready to set out again, and as you wander<br />

through the city you won’t fail to notice<br />

the bold blue-and-white azulejo tiles<br />

decorating the buildings. Apparently<br />

these glazed tiles were fi rst introduced to<br />

Portugal by the Moors, who believed in the<br />

notion of horror vacui – quite literally, the<br />

fear of empty spaces. As a result, churches<br />

across Portugal were transformed into<br />

ornate and elegant patchworks covered<br />

with elaborate tiled designs. Seek out the<br />

Igreja de São Francisco on Largo de São<br />

Francisco, a 17th-century church in the<br />

Old Town, and marvel at the mesmerising<br />

panels that cover its walls, depicting the<br />

life of St Francis.<br />

Clockwise from left,<br />

Portuguese-style fried<br />

sardines, the Museu<br />

Arqueológico, Largo da<br />

Sé and the cathedral,<br />

Faro’s tranquil marina.<br />

Previous page, the Ria<br />

Formosa lagoon<br />

Today many of these beautiful buildings<br />

have been put to new uses, so they aren’t<br />

just for looking at. An even older church,<br />

the tiny 16th-century Italianate Jesuit<br />

Colégio de Santiago Maior, was stripped<br />

of its original interior and reopened as<br />

a theatre in 1843. The Teatro Lethes, as it’s<br />

now known (59 Rua de Portugal, tel: +351<br />

289 820 300), has gained a reputation as<br />

Faro’s cultural hotspot, offering a varied<br />

programme that covers everything from<br />

children’s shows to dance festivals.<br />

It only takes a few days to uncover Faro’s<br />

treasures, but this compact, sophisticated<br />

city packs a punch. As appealing as it might<br />

be to head straight for the beach, Faro<br />

offers a rare chance to soak up the sights,<br />

smells and sounds of old Portugal<br />

– try it and you won’t be disappointed.<br />

easyJet flies to...<br />

Faro from eight destinations.<br />

See our insider guide on page 134.<br />

Book online at easyJet.com<br />

PHOTOS © ALAMY, 4CORNERS, CORBIS


IN<br />

SEARCH<br />

OF<br />

AFRICA<br />

EXPLORE BEYOND<br />

THE SOUKS AND YOU’LL<br />

FIND THE REAL MARRAKECH –<br />

SMART, INTERNATIONAL<br />

AND REFRESHINGLY FREE<br />

FROM TOURISTS<br />

TAHIR SHAH PAUL FARNHAM


Gare de Marrakech,<br />

Avenue Mohammed VI<br />

Jacket (£840) from<br />

Alexander McQueen at<br />

Matches; white T-shirt<br />

(£69) from 3.1 Philip Lim<br />

at my-wardrobe.com;<br />

slim leg trousers (£135)<br />

from DKNY; boots<br />

(£325) from Timberland;<br />

sunglasses (£120) from<br />

Ray-Ban at Sunglass<br />

Hut; scarf (£125) from<br />

Paul Smith; bag (£120)<br />

from Dunhill


FEATURES | MARRAKECH<br />

PLAYED OUT AGAINST a backdrop of<br />

vibrant cultural colour, the late Marrakech<br />

afternoon is like nothing else on earth. The<br />

souks are packed with bargains and bustle;<br />

the people cloaked in hooded djellaba<br />

robes. Bundles of wool carpets from the<br />

High Atlas mountains are stacked up next<br />

to dazzling brass trays inscribed with the<br />

names of God, baskets of dried damask<br />

roses and mounds of pungent incense<br />

and antimony, and the endless shops are<br />

crammed with treasures from the remotest<br />

reaches of the desert.<br />

70 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />

This is the Marrakech that lures<br />

countless visitors each year; the city of<br />

snake charmers, the crème de la crème<br />

of the exotic East. It’s irresistible and<br />

enchanting, a realm that bewitches all<br />

of those who set eyes upon it.<br />

But if you can extract yourself from<br />

the labyrinthine medina there’s another<br />

Marrakech to be found. Elusive, yet equally<br />

alluring, it was laid out during the French<br />

Occupation and is called Guéliz. This new<br />

town is misunderstood by most visitors,<br />

who take it at face value. But dig down<br />

below the surface and the rewards – both in<br />

terms of culture and style – are astonishing.<br />

By obsessing over the old medina, many<br />

visitors miss out entirely on the hip new<br />

face of the Pink City. A wild mix of galleries,<br />

restaurants, bars and boutiques, Guéliz<br />

attracts the big names in couture. And for<br />

every Jean Paul Gautier and Yves Saint<br />

Laurent there are dozens of others – some<br />

Moroccan, some from elsewhere – whose<br />

work is touched by the desert magic.<br />

Take a left off Avenue Mohammed V<br />

down a slim alleyway, and you come


Gare de Marrakech,<br />

Avenue Mohammed VI<br />

LEFT & RIGHT<br />

Linen jacket (£160) from<br />

Howick at House of Fraser;<br />

shirt (£140) from Zadig &<br />

Voltaire; trousers (£90)<br />

from Howick at House of<br />

Fraser; sunglasses (£120)<br />

from Ray-Ban at Sunglass<br />

Hut; scarf (£135) from<br />

Paul Smith; satchel<br />

(£155) from Browns; belt<br />

(£28) from Howick at<br />

House of Fraser<br />

BELOW<br />

Jacket (£299) from<br />

Jaeger; polo top (£85)<br />

from Marc by Marc Jacobs<br />

at my-wardrobe.com;<br />

stone chinos (£75) from<br />

Dockers at my-wardrobe.<br />

com; boots (£185) from<br />

YMC; sunglasses (£120)<br />

from Ray-Ban at Sunglass<br />

Hut; scarf (stylist’s own);<br />

bracelets (£150 each)<br />

from Tateossian at<br />

House of Fraser


FEATURES | MARRAKECH<br />

across a cluster of understated galleries<br />

and boutiques. Among them is the atelier<br />

of a British-born Moroccan known to all<br />

as Yahya (61 Rue de Yougoslavie, Passage<br />

Ghandouri, Magazin 49-50, tel: +212<br />

(0)524 422 776), whose brass appliqué<br />

lamps hang in palaces and pleasure<br />

domes the world over. Self-effacing, with<br />

an unmatched eye for detail, Yahya<br />

continues the tradition of artistry for which<br />

Morocco has been known for centuries.<br />

Next door is the gallery of designer<br />

Kenza Melehi (61 Rue de Yougoslavie,<br />

Passage Ghandouri, Magazin 41, tel:<br />

+212 (0)524 422 641), whose kaftans<br />

– worn by royalty and style icons alike<br />

– are works of art in their own right.<br />

Fashioned in dazzling colours and lavish<br />

textiles, Melehi’s work is infl uenced by<br />

a lifetime of travel, her haute couture<br />

crafted with the same mesmerising<br />

detail as Yahya’s lamps.<br />

72 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />

A stone’s throw away, on Avenue<br />

Mohammed V, is another emporium of<br />

excellence: Place Vendôme (141 Avenue<br />

Mohammed V, tel: +212 (0)524 435 263).<br />

A treasure trove of leatherwork, it also taps<br />

into the traditional know-how of Moroccan<br />

master craftsmen, selling saddles, belts<br />

and suede jackets of extremely high quality.<br />

Continue on to Rue de la Liberté and you’ll<br />

come across Atika Chaussures (34 Rue de<br />

la Liberté, tel: +212 (0)524 436 409), a tiny<br />

store that sells the kind of suede driving<br />

shoes popularised by Tod’s, but for a<br />

fraction of the price.<br />

TO PROPERLY APPRECIATE Guéliz it’s<br />

important to seek out the local’s eye view.<br />

Café du Livre (44 Rue Tarik ibn Ziad, tel:<br />

+212 (0)524 432 149) is the ideal place to<br />

start. A bookshop and café tucked away<br />

in the courtyard of Hotel Toulousain,<br />

behind the site of the old market, its


Intersection Avenue<br />

Mohammed V and Rue<br />

de la Koutoubia<br />

FAR LEFT & RIGHT<br />

Pink striped shirt (£165)<br />

from John Varvatos at<br />

Matches; white T-shirt<br />

(£17) from American<br />

Apparel; khaki shorts<br />

(£135) from DKNY;<br />

espadrilles (£40) from<br />

Kurt Geiger; hat (£135)<br />

from Lock & Co Hatters;<br />

sunglasses (£190) from<br />

Persol at Sunglass Hut;<br />

scarf (£36) from Ted<br />

Baker at House of Fraser;<br />

bracelets (£150 each)<br />

from Tateossian at House<br />

of Fraser<br />

LEFT & BELOW<br />

Blue checked shortsleeved<br />

shirt (£178)<br />

from Dolce & Gabbana<br />

at Matches; blue jersey<br />

T-shirt (£52) from Acne<br />

at my-wardrobe.com;<br />

white shorts (£129)<br />

from DKNY; boots (£185)<br />

from YMC; sunglasses<br />

(£230) from Persol at<br />

Sunglass Hut; scarf<br />

(£140) from Jil Sander at<br />

Browns; bag (£360) from<br />

Jaeger; watch (£180)<br />

from Luke 1977


FEATURES | MARRAKECH<br />

appeal runs far beyond the shelves of used<br />

books and free Wi-Fi. This is a place where<br />

you can slip into local life, relaxing into the<br />

rhythm of the neighbourhood.<br />

Another excellent place to watch<br />

Guéliz life go by is the legendary Café les<br />

Négociants (Avenue Mohammed V, tel:<br />

+212 (0)524 435 782). A pavement eatery<br />

par excellence, it stands at the heart of the<br />

district and serves glasses of tar-like café<br />

noir. Sit there for half an hour and waves<br />

of street sellers, shoe cleaners and<br />

mendicants weave between the tables,<br />

gently vying for your attention.<br />

But Guéliz isn’t just for the casual<br />

consumer. Over the past decade, it has<br />

erupted on to the style scene, and boasts<br />

74 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />

galleries, bars and restaurants that would<br />

be the talk of the town even if they were in<br />

London, New York or Shanghai. Eclectic<br />

and modern, Gallerie Rê (Résidence Al<br />

Andalous III, Angle Rues de la Mosquée<br />

et Ibn Toumert no 3, galeriere.com) is<br />

patronised by art lovers from Morocco<br />

and beyond. An invitation to one of its<br />

viewings is as sought after as one of Willy<br />

Wonka’s golden tickets, and it’s a sure place<br />

to rub shoulders with fashionable locals<br />

and the international jet-set.<br />

One of the fi nest places to dine is<br />

the Table du Marché (4 rue de Temple<br />

Hivernage, tel: +212 (0)524 424 100), where<br />

chef Christophe Leroy conjures magic with<br />

local produce found, as the name would<br />

suggest, in Marrakech’s markets. Another<br />

gem, the Grand Café de la Poste (Boulevard<br />

El Mansour Eddahbi, tel: +212 (0)524<br />

433 038), is a local favourite and offers<br />

extraordinarily stylish cuisine with prices<br />

that won’t break the bank.<br />

After dinner, there’s no shortage of<br />

places to drink and dance. The Yellow Sub<br />

(82 Avenue Hassan II, tel: +212 (0)672 569<br />

864) attracts the international crowd with<br />

its Beatles-inspired psychedelia, while Jad<br />

Mahal (10 Rue Haroune Erracid, tel: +212<br />

(0)524 436 984) offers a fusion of exotic<br />

Moroccan and Indian styles. The crosscultural<br />

entertainment continues at Le<br />

Comptoir Darna (Avenue Echouhada,<br />

tel: +212 (0)524 437 702), with


Left and below left,<br />

Café les Négociants;<br />

below, Avenue<br />

Mohammed V; opposite,<br />

Patisserie Hilton,<br />

Rue de Yougoslavie<br />

THIS SPREAD<br />

Light grey jacket (£299)<br />

from Without Prejudice<br />

at House of Fraser; grey<br />

striped shirt (£175) from<br />

Marc by Marc Jacobs<br />

at my-wardrobe.com;<br />

stone chinos (£75) from<br />

Dockers at my-wardrobe.<br />

com; espadrilles (£40)<br />

from Kurt Geiger; hat<br />

(£135) from Lock & Co<br />

Hatters; sunglasses<br />

(£190) from Persol at<br />

Sunglass Hut


This page and below,<br />

Rue de Yves St Laurent;<br />

opposite, Jardin Majorelle;<br />

far right, Rue Moulay Ali<br />

LEFT & BELOW<br />

Navy jacket (£100) from<br />

Luke 1977; white polo<br />

(£59) from Hugo Boss<br />

Black at my-wardrobe.<br />

com; navy chinos (£85)<br />

from Polo Ralph Lauren<br />

at my-wardrobe.com;<br />

sunglasses (£106) from<br />

DKNY at Sunglass Hut;<br />

scarf (£165) from<br />

Gucci at Matches;<br />

belt (model’s own)<br />

OPPOSITE<br />

Grey jumper (£280)<br />

from YSL at Matches;<br />

white chino shorts (£75)<br />

from Jaeger; loafers<br />

(£245) from Car Shoes<br />

at Matches; sunglasses<br />

(£120) from Ray-Ban at<br />

Sunglass Hut; pocket<br />

square worn around neck<br />

(£39) from Thomas Pink<br />

FAR RIGHT<br />

Cream linen jacket<br />

(£550) from Paul Smith<br />

at House of Fraser; white<br />

T-shirt (£60) from Acne<br />

at my-wardrobe.com;<br />

white trousers (£99) from<br />

Jaeger; vintage boots<br />

(£325) from Timberland;<br />

sunglasses (£106) from<br />

DKNY at Sunglass Hut;<br />

pocket square worn<br />

around neck (£29) from<br />

Thomas Pink; watch<br />

(£429) from Victorinox<br />

PHOTOGRAPHY<br />

Paul Farnham<br />

STYLING<br />

Wendy Tee<br />

ART DIRECTOR<br />

Neil Smith<br />

PRODUCTION<br />

Amy Dennis<br />

MODEL<br />

Adrian Allen<br />

fmmodelagency.com<br />

STOCKISTS<br />

americanapparel.com<br />

brownsfashion.com<br />

dkny.donnakaran.com<br />

dunhill.com<br />

houseoff raser.co.uk<br />

jaeger.co.uk<br />

kurtgeiger.com<br />

lockhatters.co.uk<br />

luke1977.com<br />

matchesfashion.com<br />

my-wardrobe.com<br />

paulsmith.co.uk<br />

sunglasshut.co.uk<br />

thomaspink.com<br />

timberland.com<br />

victorinox.com<br />

youmustcreate.com<br />

zadig-et-voltaire.com<br />

SPECIAL THANKS<br />

Gatwick Express


lounge bars, secluded patios and dance<br />

extravaganzas blending the best of<br />

Marrakech and Paris.<br />

As the fi rst rays of dawn light break<br />

across the desert horizon, where better<br />

to rest your head than in one of the<br />

new town’s iconic hotels? The jewel in<br />

the crown when it comes to superlative<br />

Marrakech hospitality is La Mamounia<br />

(Avenue Bab Jdid, tel: +212 (0)524 388<br />

600, mamounia.com). Recently reopened<br />

after renovation, it was here that Winston<br />

Churchill brought President Roosevelt to<br />

paint during World War II, and it’s still<br />

the best place in town to spot celebrities,<br />

whether they’re reclining by the pool or<br />

browsing its chic boutiques.<br />

To stay in the heart of Guéliz, take<br />

a room in Hotel La Renaissance (89<br />

Boulevard Zerktouni, tel: +212 (0)524<br />

FEATURES | MARRAKECH<br />

337 777). Just across from Négociants,<br />

it makes for a fantastically central base<br />

and offers wonderful views of the city<br />

– its Mediterranean restaurant boasts<br />

spectacular vistas across the rooftops<br />

to the High Atlas mountains beyond,<br />

and the bar is the highest in Marrakech.<br />

In a world opened up by air travel,<br />

Marrakech is far more than just another<br />

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MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 77


DIRECTORY | MARRAKECH


FEATURES | ZURICH<br />

WITH ITS IDYLLIC<br />

lakeside setting, fl awless<br />

public transport and<br />

well-paid workforce, Zürich<br />

is regularly named the best<br />

place in the world to live.<br />

Analysts comb through millions of<br />

pieces of data on crime, employment,<br />

green spaces and more, and consistently<br />

fi nd Switzerland’s biggest city at the top<br />

of the ratings.<br />

All of which makes it sound very<br />

boring. But it’s not. A formerly downat-heel<br />

industrial area called Zürich<br />

West – only a few blocks from the<br />

quaint Old Town but divided from it by<br />

the main railway line – has been turned<br />

into a world capital of contemporary<br />

art. Galleries started moving into<br />

and around an old brewery building<br />

called the Löwenbräu in the 1990s,<br />

and now the area is buzzing with bars,<br />

restaurants and desirable apartments.<br />

The New York Times has compared<br />

the area to East Berlin or London’s<br />

Shoreditch, and as word spreads, Zürich<br />

is becoming renowned as one of the<br />

world’s great art cities.<br />

The scene has grown organically<br />

over the past 20 or so years, but it’s<br />

about to receive a major boost thanks<br />

to the renovation of the Löwenbräu,<br />

which will add major new gallery<br />

spaces and residential apartments<br />

when it reopens in 2012. As Zürich<br />

prepares to enter the next stage of its<br />

artistic development, we caught up<br />

with some of the city’s most important<br />

gallery owners to fi nd out why the city<br />

is becoming just as famous for its art<br />

as it is for its banks.<br />

80 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />

SHOOTING<br />

GALLERIES<br />

THE REGENERATION<br />

LEE CHESHIRE VÉRONIQUE HOEGGER<br />

OF A RUN-DOWN<br />

INDUSTRIAL AREA IS<br />

TURNING ZURICH<br />

INTO ONE OF THE<br />

WORLD’S FOREMOST<br />

CENTRES FOR<br />

CONTEMPORARY ART


FEATURES | ZURICH<br />

➳ BEATRIX RUF<br />

DIRECTOR, KUNSTHALLE ZURICH<br />

“I’m so looking forward to moving<br />

back to the Löwenbräu. We moved out<br />

for a couple of years while it was being<br />

renovated and extended, but when<br />

we go back we’ll have new exhibition<br />

spaces, a bookshop and better offi ces.<br />

It will be a long-term home for the<br />

arts. My original plan for while we<br />

were homeless was to show work in<br />

temporary spaces around Zürich,<br />

but the city found us an abandoned<br />

museum. Our fi rst exhibition opened<br />

in January and we’ll be here until next<br />

year. All the redevelopment in Zürich<br />

West is moving the centre of the city –<br />

for a long time Zürich has been seen as<br />

an international but moderately sized<br />

place. These changes will make it feel<br />

more like a big city.”<br />

➳ AFTER THE ART... “My old favourite<br />

– now everybody’s favourite – is the<br />

Kronenhalle restaurant (4 Rämistrasse,<br />

tel: +41 (0)44 262 9900). It has original<br />

artworks by Picasso and Chagall<br />

hanging on the walls, and when<br />

smoking was banned in Zürich last year<br />

they opened up a fumoir on the fi rst<br />

fl oor. That’s where we all hang out.”<br />

Kunsthalle Zürich, currently<br />

at Museum Bärengasse, 20-22<br />

Bärengasse, tel: +41 (0)44 272 1515,<br />

kunsthallezurich.ch<br />

MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 81


FEATURES | ZURICH<br />

“YOU CAN’T<br />

COMPARE<br />

ZURICH TO<br />

PLACES LIKE<br />

LONDON<br />

OR BERLIN –<br />

IT’S A MUCH<br />

SMALLER CITY”<br />

➳ PETER KILCHMANN<br />

FOUNDER, GALERIE PETER KILCHMANN<br />

“The move to our new gallery is going<br />

very well – everything is coming<br />

together and it will open on 15 April.<br />

It’s in a converted industrial building<br />

in a district called Maag Areal, not far<br />

from the Löwenbräu building, where<br />

we were before. They used to make big<br />

screws here for ships – it’s one of only<br />

two buildings that remain, so it’s listed.<br />

It’s in a modernist Bauhaus style, and<br />

slightly curved.<br />

“When we moved to Zürich West<br />

more than 15 years ago it was very run<br />

down, and lots of the shops were closed.<br />

It was in a diffi cult situation at the<br />

beginning of the 1990s. The authorities<br />

legalised drugs in a part of Zürich,<br />

and addicts from all over Switzerland<br />

came to the area. But in the mid-1990s,<br />

the music scene and party scene took<br />

over. The Löwenbräu opened, and that<br />

brought the art galleries here. People<br />

realised it was a really central area that<br />

had been neglected.”<br />

➳ AFTER THE ART... “The place where<br />

all the artists go to hang out is Café<br />

Odeon (2 Limmatquai, tel: +41 (0)44<br />

251 1650) – it’s quite stylish, with art-<br />

nouveau decoration and unusual large<br />

red banquettes.”<br />

Galerie Peter Kilchmann, Diagonal<br />

Building, 21 Zahnradstrasse, tel: +41<br />

(0)44 278 1010, peterkilchmann.com<br />

82 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11


➳ FLORIAN BERKTOLD<br />

DIRECTOR, HAUSER & WIRTH ZURICH<br />

“Despite having galleries in London and<br />

New York, Hauser & Wirth still feels very<br />

much a Zürich-based organisation. Much<br />

of our identity comes from our Zürich<br />

roots. When we started in the 1990s, it was<br />

a very exciting time here. You can’t compare<br />

Zürich to places like London or Berlin – it’s<br />

a much smaller city. A lot of the attraction<br />

is what is offered here: the beautiful setting<br />

by the river, the lively bars and restaurants.<br />

“When the Löwenbräu reopens next<br />

year, it will be much improved. In the<br />

meantime we have moved to Hubertus<br />

Exhibitions, in a residential area just across<br />

the railway tracks from Zürich West, along<br />

FEATURES | ZURICH<br />

with the Migros Museum and the Bob van<br />

Orsouw gallery. We wanted to stay together<br />

and not disperse across the city. We wanted<br />

to keep the energy, which is the unique<br />

thing that came from being in the brewery.”<br />

➳ AFTER THE ART... “A fun place to go<br />

is the Helsinki Klub (35 Geroldstrasse).<br />

There are live bands there every weekend<br />

and it’s a great place to hang out and have<br />

a drink. It’s a stone’s throw from the<br />

railway, right by the tracks.”<br />

Hauser & Wirth Zürich, Hubertus<br />

Exhibitions, 199a Albisreiderstrasse,<br />

tel: +41 (0)44 446 8050, hauserwirth.com<br />

MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 83


FEATURES | ZURICH<br />

84 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />

➳ NICOLA VON SENGER<br />

FOUNDER, GALERIE NICOLA VON SENGER<br />

“I started my gallery 22 years ago.<br />

I’m originally from Zürich and I was<br />

fascinated by a gallery owner called Bruno<br />

Bischofberger, who showed work from<br />

people such as Andy Warhol. He impressed<br />

me so much that I decided to go to London<br />

to study at Sotheby’s.<br />

“We’ve moved around. For a long time<br />

we were in the nice part of Zürich, but we<br />

thought it was important to be where all<br />

the other exhibitions are – to be part of the<br />

synergy. It’s good for visitors to come and<br />

see two or three museums and galleries in<br />

one place. Here in Zürich we have more<br />

galleries per person than any other city<br />

in the world. That means there is strong<br />

competition between us, which helps keep<br />

the quality high.”<br />

“IN ZURICH<br />

WE HAVE MORE<br />

GALLERIES<br />

PER PERSON<br />

THAN ANY<br />

OTHER CITY<br />

IN THE<br />

WORLD”<br />

➳ AFTER THE ART... “One of my favourite<br />

places is a church called Grossmünster<br />

(Zwingliplatz), which has two towers you<br />

can climb up for a fantastic view of our<br />

cute city. The lake is also worth visiting.<br />

There is a place called Utoquai down by the<br />

lake, where Helmut Newton did a lot of his<br />

work. You feel like you’ve walked into one of<br />

his photographs.”<br />

Galerie Nicola von Senger, 275<br />

Limmatstrasse, tel: +41 (0)44 201 8810,<br />

nicolavonsenger.com<br />

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BUSINESS | ENERGY<br />

86 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11


THIS YEAR SPAIN WILL BECOME<br />

THE WORLD’S BIGGEST<br />

PRODUCER OF SOLAR THERMAL<br />

ENERGY, LEADING THE WAY<br />

TO A MORE EFFECTIVE FUTURE<br />

BUSINESS | ENERGY<br />

FOR RENEWABLE POWER<br />

SOLAR<br />

FLAIR<br />

GEOFF NAIRN<br />

ANDREW DUKE<br />

MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 87


BUSINESS | ENERGY<br />

Right, Andasol 3<br />

occupies a surface<br />

area of 1,500km 2<br />

IT’S NOT JUST TOURISTS who can’t get<br />

enough of southern Spain’s year-round sun.<br />

Europe’s leading energy and construction<br />

companies are keen to stake a claim in<br />

Spain’s fast-growing solar thermal energy<br />

market, which has overtaken the US to<br />

become the world’s largest.<br />

Mention solar power and most people<br />

think of photovoltaic (PV) panels, which<br />

convert light directly into electricity using<br />

silicon cells. But solar thermal energy<br />

is different, and represents a relatively<br />

untapped renewable source – at least<br />

in Europe. Solar thermal energy plants<br />

88 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />

use mirrors to concentrate sunlight and<br />

generate heat, which is then used to<br />

produce electricity from a turbine just<br />

like in a conventional power station.<br />

Thanks to generous subsidies, PV panels<br />

are a common sight on rooftops and in<br />

so-called solar farms – and not just in sunny<br />

Spain. In fact in 2009 Germany overtook<br />

Spain to become the world’s biggest PV<br />

market. But the big problem with PV panels<br />

is that they produce little electricity on cloudy<br />

days – and none at night.<br />

In contrast, solar thermal plants have<br />

built-in storage so they can keep producing<br />

electricity when clouds block the sun and<br />

at night. And, unlike wind energy, which<br />

has grown to be Spain’s third-largest power<br />

source, solar thermal plants can store energy<br />

that isn’t immediately used, feeding it into<br />

the grid when needed. That makes solar<br />

thermal energy a more fl exible alternative to<br />

other renewable energy sources, even though<br />

it is currently more costly.<br />

“The grid operators like solar thermal<br />

power far more than PV or wind power,” says<br />

Paul Coffey, chief operating offi cer of RWE<br />

Innogy, the renewables division of German<br />

energy giant RWE. Utilities are warming


to solar thermal plants because, both on<br />

the balance sheet and on the ground, they<br />

perform much like conventional power<br />

plants. But the costs of building these<br />

plants are steep – around €300m for<br />

a 50MW plant – so it makes sense that<br />

investors are keen to get the best energy<br />

return by positioning solar thermal plants<br />

in southern Europe, where the sun’s rays<br />

are hottest and cloudy days are rare.<br />

ONE SUCH SITE is the Tabernas desert<br />

near Almería, an area that Sergio Leone<br />

fans will recognise as the location for<br />

“ON A GOOD<br />

DAY, SOLAR<br />

THERMAL<br />

CAN DELIVER<br />

DOUBLE THE<br />

POWER OF<br />

A PV PLANT”<br />

several of his spaghetti westerns. But<br />

the cowboys have moved on, and today<br />

Tabernas is home to the Plataforma<br />

Solar de Almería, a Spanish-German<br />

solar energy research facility set up in<br />

the 1980s. Over 20,000m 2 of mirrors<br />

are installed on its 100-acre site and<br />

there’s a huge solar furnace that would<br />

do a James Bond movie proud.<br />

Just an hour’s drive inland from<br />

Tabernas is the equally futuristic<br />

Andasol complex, its 600,000 mirrors<br />

glinting in the sun. Occupying a surface<br />

area of 1,500km 2 – the equivalent of<br />

BUSINESS | ENERGY<br />

BIG ON<br />

RENEWABLES<br />

As governments look for cost-eff ective<br />

alternatives to fossil fuels and nuclear,<br />

Europe’s renewable energy projects are<br />

getting increasingly ambitious…<br />

➳ ITALY<br />

The largest photovoltaic solar plant<br />

operating in Europe is at Montalto di<br />

Castro, 90km outside Rome. The<br />

85MW plant was built in four phases,<br />

with the fi nal two completed in<br />

December 2010.<br />

➳ GERMANY<br />

It’s not as sunny as Spain or Italy, but<br />

Germany is home to Europe’s secondlargest<br />

PV plant. It is at Finsterwalde in<br />

the eastern state of Brandenberg, and<br />

this three-phase facility has a combined<br />

capacity of 81MW.<br />

➳ UK<br />

Scotland has Europe’s largest onshore<br />

wind farm. The 140 turbines currently<br />

working at Whitelee Wind Farm in East<br />

Renfrewshire generate 322MW. Another<br />

75 turbines are to be added by 2012,<br />

taking the expanded capacity to 539MW.<br />

➳ UK<br />

Gwynt y Môr is Europe’s largest off shore<br />

wind farm project, although it is still<br />

under construction 18km off the North<br />

Wales coast. When completed in 2014<br />

it will produce 580MW. In 2020, the<br />

off shore wind prize will pass to the<br />

Dogger Bank project, which will<br />

produce 9,000MW of wind power<br />

from a sandbank 200km off the<br />

east coast of England.<br />

➳ NORTH AFRICA<br />

By far the biggest renewable energy<br />

project conceived in Europe is Desertec,<br />

a hugely ambitious initiative to source<br />

15% of Europe’s electricity from solar<br />

energy plants scattered across the<br />

Sahara by 2050, transmitting the energy<br />

to Europe via undersea cables. The<br />

€400bn project is still at the planning<br />

stage and faces formidable technical<br />

and political obstacles.<br />

MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 89


BUSINESS | ENERGY<br />

210 football pitches – Andasol will become<br />

Europe’s largest commercial solar energy<br />

site when its third and fi nal plant, Andasol<br />

3, starts operating this year. Around<br />

500 workers helped construct Andasol 3,<br />

and 50 permanent jobs will be created<br />

when its turbines start spinning this year.<br />

That’s good news for the local economy –<br />

the Andalucía region has one of the highest<br />

unemployment rates in Spain.<br />

The science behind these costly plants<br />

is deceptively simple. More than 80km of<br />

trough-like mirrors arranged in 300 rows<br />

focus the sun’s rays on to horizontal tubes,<br />

through which a special fl uid circulates.<br />

The fl uid heats to 400°C and then passes<br />

through a heat exchanger to generate steam.<br />

As in a traditional power plant, the steam<br />

drives a turbine and generates the electricity.<br />

If too much heat is produced, the excess is<br />

used to heat liquid salts in storage tanks.<br />

This stored heat can then be fed back into<br />

the system when it’s cloudy or at night.<br />

“Theoretically, we can run the plant for<br />

24 hours a day during the summer,” says<br />

Frank Dinter, RWE Innogy’s head of solar<br />

power. It will probably only run from 8am<br />

to 12pm as that’s when electricity prices are<br />

highest, but it’s this ability to programme<br />

Andasol’s output like a conventional power<br />

plant that is one of the key attractions of<br />

solar thermal energy. Another is the greater<br />

effi ciency of a solar thermal plant: “On<br />

a good day, solar thermal can deliver more<br />

90 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />

“THE PLANT<br />

CAN RUN 24<br />

HOURS A DAY”<br />

than double the electricity of a PV plant [of<br />

the same size],” argues Dinter. “That’s why<br />

we decided to stop developing PV plants.”<br />

SPAIN IS CLEARLY serious about solar<br />

thermal power. Of all the EU member<br />

states it is the most enthusiastic in<br />

supporting the technology, and while the<br />

country’s deep economic crisis recently<br />

forced the government to reduce the<br />

massive subsidies previously paid to<br />

renewable energy producers, the solar<br />

thermal sector escaped lightly. Indeed,<br />

the loudest howls of protest have come<br />

from private investors who put their<br />

money into huertas solares – solar farms<br />

that use ground-mounted PV panels.<br />

Left, Andasol 3 uses<br />

80km of troughshaped<br />

mirrors to<br />

turn sunshine into<br />

clean, storable energy<br />

These projects were promoted as getrich-quick<br />

schemes in local newspapers,<br />

but now face tariff cuts of up to 45%,<br />

while wind energy has also had its wings<br />

clipped by 35% cuts on the price of windgenerated<br />

electricity, according to Spain’s<br />

revised renewable energy law.<br />

In fact, the new law has brought clarity<br />

– and a fresh sense of urgency – to solar<br />

thermal projects still on the drawing board.<br />

That’s because the law guarantees them<br />

generous tariffs for 25 years that cannot<br />

be retroactively reduced. Based on projects<br />

that have been approved, industry trade<br />

body Protermosolar predicts that by 2013<br />

Spain will have 60 solar thermal plants<br />

generating a combined 2,500MW of power.<br />

But to benefi t from the generous tariffs<br />

and unblock investment in the sector,<br />

the legislation requires that, once approved,<br />

solar thermal projects need to be ready<br />

to start operating within 36 months.<br />

So now the race is really on for a place<br />

in the Spanish sun.


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BUSINESS | LYLE & SCOTT<br />

92 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11


THE<br />

EAGLE<br />

HAS<br />

LANDED<br />

International businessman Derrick Campbell<br />

has turned knitwear company Lyle & Scott around,<br />

rejuvenating its image – and its bank balance<br />

THE ROSY-CHEEKED SCOT sitting across<br />

the table in his suit and tie doesn’t look<br />

particularly rock’n’roll. In fact, as he sips<br />

a cappuccino in one of Carnaby Street’s<br />

trendier bars, Derrick Campbell looks more<br />

like a strict presbyterian headmaster than<br />

the man behind one of Britain’s coolest<br />

clothing companies.<br />

But it’s because of 53-year-old Campbell<br />

that Lyle & Scott, a Scottish fi rm once<br />

famous for frumpy golf jumpers worn by<br />

the likes of Nick Faldo, has been adopted<br />

by hipsters such as the Arctic Monkeys,<br />

Kasabian, Alexa Chung and Pete Doherty.<br />

And with the credibility has come cash<br />

– when Campbell became Lyle & Scott’s<br />

managing director in 2004 it was trading<br />

at a loss of £2m (€1.7m) a year. Last year, it<br />

turned over £40m.<br />

“We were lucky in a way,” he says with<br />

a shy smile. “When I became head of the<br />

company, the products we were making<br />

– the close-fi t V-neck jumper and the<br />

STEPHANIE THEOBALD<br />

cardigan with the eagle logo – suited the<br />

style of the rock bands of the time. The<br />

more geeky, nerdy thing became cool.”<br />

But luck is only half the story. “I knew<br />

that the company had to change, so we<br />

plundered the archives and came up with<br />

a look we called Vintage, which combines<br />

the romance of the past with the edgy<br />

aesthetic of the present. It’s for young<br />

men and women who want both.”<br />

He later came up with a similar<br />

collection called Heritage for the 40-plus<br />

male, cleverly cut to help give older wearers<br />

a more fl attering fi gure. The changes broke<br />

with the company’s past, but in a way<br />

Campbell’s innovations were entirely in<br />

keeping with the aims of William Lyle and<br />

Walter Scott when they fi rst set up shop in<br />

1874. Scottish knitwear factories had been<br />

churning out hosiery for years, but Lyle and<br />

Scott realised there was a growing market<br />

in quality underwear for the increasingly<br />

wealthy middle classes.<br />

BUSINESS | LYLE & SCOTT<br />

MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 93


BUSINESS | LYLE & SCOTT<br />

Their product line developed<br />

throughout the 19th and early 20th<br />

centuries, until in the 1950s the company<br />

changed direction and went into women’s<br />

clothing, which included making cashmere<br />

garments for Christian Dior. Then, in<br />

the late 1960s, it was all change again –<br />

this time into golf clothes. By the time<br />

Campbell became MD in 2004, it was<br />

time for another shift in direction.<br />

ONE ADVANTAGE CAMPBELL has over his<br />

19th-century predecessors is his ability to<br />

travel – he lives a genuinely international<br />

life, and says that the jet-setting helps<br />

with his job. Every Monday morning he<br />

commutes from his home in Paris to the<br />

Lyle & Scott head offi ce in London, and then<br />

on Friday evenings he either heads back<br />

to Paris, or fl ies up to Edinburgh and then<br />

drives 50 minutes to Hawick in the Scottish<br />

Borders, where the factory still makes all of<br />

Lyle & Scott’s lambswool jumpers.<br />

“I think being an international traveller<br />

has kept my eye for trends fresh,” he says.<br />

“It’s easier to see the differences when you<br />

live in two cities. I love coming to London<br />

because you pick up trends. Londoners<br />

are more free about how they dress –<br />

women take more risks and men are more<br />

adventurous.” But he’s quick to add that<br />

he’s not convinced he’d want to live in<br />

London, as it’s “very expensive” and “much<br />

more speedy” than Paris, the city where he<br />

has set up home.<br />

Thirty years ago, when Campbell joined<br />

Lyle & Scott’s Hawick offi ce as a junior<br />

with a degree in modern languages, he<br />

hired a French intern, Laurence. They were<br />

soon romantically attached, and when she<br />

94 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />

“INTERNATIONAL<br />

TRAVEL KEEPS<br />

MY EYE FOR<br />

TRENDS FRESH”<br />

was offered a job at L’Oréal in Paris in the<br />

early 1990s, she and Campbell decided to<br />

leave Hawick for the snappy sophistication<br />

of the French capital. They now have<br />

a three-year-old son, Max, and Campbell<br />

has become “an insatiable traveller”.<br />

He even enjoys the Monday morning<br />

commute from Paris to London: “I’m wide<br />

awake and refreshed, and I’m also an hour<br />

ahead of everyone because of the time<br />

difference so I get ahead on my emails.”<br />

The independent life of the international<br />

commuter clearly suits him well, a fact he<br />

attributes to his Caledonian roots. “I’m<br />

very resourceful, and I think that comes in<br />

Clockwise from left, Lyle<br />

& Scott’s Archive range,<br />

Vintage, Derrick Campbell<br />

part from being brought up in the Scottish<br />

Borders,” he explains. “I did a lot of hill<br />

walking, horse riding and skiing when<br />

I was younger, which would take me off<br />

into the countryside on my own. It’s good<br />

to be a team player in business but selfsuffi<br />

ciency is also useful.”<br />

HE’S BEEN LIVING in the same room<br />

of the same Knightsbridge hotel for the<br />

20 years he’s been doing the weekly<br />

journey, and stays in touch with home<br />

by speaking to Laurence and Max every<br />

morning and evening – in French. “Max<br />

has started to correct my pronunciation,”<br />

he laughs. While he enjoys his time in<br />

both London and Paris, he has no doubt<br />

about his favourite place to be. “My heart<br />

will always be in Scotland,” he says with<br />

a twinkle. “I love going back to Hawick<br />

because there’s a complete unawareness<br />

of what’s on trend. I fi nd sanity there and<br />

a genuine wholeheartedness about people.”<br />

And with that, Campbell fi nishes his<br />

cappuccino and he’s up and out of the<br />

coffee bar. The polo shirt with the eagle<br />

logo on the breast is becoming as easily<br />

recognisable a badge of casual cool as<br />

a Fred Perry or Ralph Lauren shirt.<br />

With a new line of golf-themed knitwear<br />

out this spring he’s aiming to narrow the<br />

gap on the competition even further –<br />

and still get home for the weekend.


Children’s kimonos<br />

This<br />

su s uunique<br />

uniq u que e spe sp special pecial<br />

exhibition on children’s<br />

re ren’s kimon kim kimonos kkimonos<br />

onos nos eexclusively<br />

features items<br />

from f om m the<br />

he r rre<br />

remarkable a Nakano Kazuko<br />

collection ccolle<br />

lllection<br />

ect from Yamagata in northern Ja-<br />

pan. pa . This siis<br />

is the fi rst time that these items<br />

are arre<br />

on public display, and this is<br />

the fi rst exhibition in<br />

Europe Eu EEu<br />

E to be<br />

exclusively ex e<br />

devoted to<br />

the subject<br />

of children’s<br />

kimonos. All<br />

of the more than 90 children’s kimonos<br />

originate from the Edo period<br />

(1603–1867) up to the Shôwa period<br />

(1926–1989). A slideshow and videos<br />

on the subject of children’s kimonos put<br />

the visitors in the right mood for the exhibition.<br />

Opening Hours:<br />

MUSEUM, SHOP and CAFÉ:<br />

Daily from 10.00 until 18.00<br />

Steinenvorstadt 1, CH-4051 Basel<br />

Tel. +41 (0)61 225 95 95<br />

www.puppenhausmuseum.ch<br />

The building is accessible by wheelchair.<br />

Special exhibition<br />

16 October 2010<br />

until 3 April <strong>2011</strong><br />

Nakano Kazuko Collection<br />

dialog-x.ch


ndy Warhol rman<br />

ernar Venet sar<br />

hristo an Fare<br />

ean-Michel Folon<br />

ean-Pierre aynaud<br />

im ine laude <br />

François-Xavier Lalanne<br />

Mimmo otella<br />

iki de Saint-Phalle<br />

Pavlos auschenerg<br />

oert omas<br />

oert Indiana<br />

otraut Sam Francis<br />

Sosno Villegl Wim<br />

elvoye ves lein<br />

True to our artists...<br />

Ideally located in Saint-Paul de Vence for the last 10 years, on the road to<br />

the Maeght Foundation, Galerie Guy Pieters is an exceptional venue for art<br />

lovers and collectors alike. With 750m2 of exhiition space and a magni cent<br />

Mediterranean garden of more than 4000m2 dedicated to world renowned artists.<br />

WWW.GUYPIETERSGALLERY.COM


de Rham SA<br />

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Jean-Pierre.Ferrara@deRham.ch<br />

Direct + 41 58 211 13 76<br />

Mobile + 41 79 210 80 10<br />

Andrea.DelNegro@deRham.ch<br />

Direct + 41 58 211 13 32<br />

Mobile + 41 79 663 62 63<br />

www.deRham.ch<br />

OWN IN<br />

SWITZERLAND<br />

DIRECTORY | MIPIM<br />

Do you wish to invest in a country where safety<br />

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PROPERTY | NICE | MIPIM<br />

98 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />

B<br />

UI<br />

LD<br />

ING<br />

BUSI<br />

NESS<br />

Delegates explain why MIPIM remains the<br />

world’s most important real-estate event<br />

THE GLOBAL DOWNTURN has made<br />

its presence felt across many sectors of the<br />

real-estate industry, but at this month’s<br />

MIPIM event in Cannes it will very much<br />

be business as usual. If the turn-out<br />

for 2010’s event was anything to go by,<br />

MIPIM <strong>2011</strong> will be thronging, with more<br />

than 17,000 participants all intent on<br />

networking, investing or showcasing new<br />

projects and products.<br />

“From an international perspective,<br />

MIPIM is the most important event<br />

for the real-estate industry,” says Peter<br />

Rhodes, MD of MIPIM organiser Reed<br />

MIDEM UK. “It’s the only event that<br />

brings together so many developers,<br />

politicians and investors. Everyone is there<br />

to do business so it’s ideal for getting that<br />

meeting with someone who normally<br />

wouldn’t have time to see you.”<br />

Despite the economic crises that have<br />

hit several European countries over<br />

the past few years, there are plenty of<br />

LAURA LATHAM<br />

positive changes taking place within the<br />

commercial and residential sectors, as<br />

well as several grand public projects being<br />

showcased by delegates from America to<br />

Azerbaijan. We asked a few of this year’s<br />

visitors what they are hoping to achieve.<br />

➳ GARY YARDLEY<br />

INVESTMENT DIRECTOR<br />

CAPITAL & COUNTIES UK<br />

“This year we’ll be using MIPIM to launch<br />

the masterplan for London’s new Earls<br />

Court redevelopment. Designed by Sir<br />

Terry Farrell, the project comprises 77 acres<br />

of mixed-use retail, leisure, employment<br />

and residential opportunities in a prime<br />

London site, and we feel that MIPIM is<br />

the ideal venue to showcase this scheme<br />

to stakeholders and a global audience of<br />

potential investors and partners.<br />

“There’s no denying that the<br />

international real-estate market has had<br />

a torrid time over the past two years, but


PROPERTY | NICE | MIPIM<br />

Left, the Venezia<br />

Lifestyle Center is<br />

a beacon of exciting<br />

urban planning<br />

MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 99


PROPERTY | NICE | MIPIM<br />

most people in the industry are looking for<br />

a serious way to move forward. Despite the<br />

downturn, London has remained strong and<br />

people are still keen to invest here, so we’re<br />

looking forward to attending, especially as<br />

this year the UK is the country of honour.”<br />

➳ RON BAKKER PARTNER<br />

PLP ARCHITECTURE UK<br />

“Our fi rm has been attending MIPIM since<br />

it started and we’ve seen it move from being<br />

a purely European event to one that attracts<br />

people from the US, Middle East and Asia.<br />

This suits us very well as we have also grown<br />

as a practice to cover a more global market.<br />

“I’ve always found MIPIM a good place to<br />

catch up with people I know in the industry<br />

and now it’s also a good forum for meeting<br />

new clients or partners. It has become the<br />

key event for the international real-estate<br />

industry to generate business development.<br />

“It’s a great place for the exchange<br />

of ideas, a showcase for what diff erent<br />

companies are working on and who is<br />

looking to invest. It gives us a chance to see<br />

what else is happening, what’s new or where<br />

the emerging regions are.”<br />

➳ BEST OF BRITISH<br />

This year the UK is MIPIM’s<br />

country of honour, which<br />

means there will be a series<br />

of conferences and events<br />

dedicated to exploring its<br />

investment opportunities.<br />

In addition to panel-led<br />

discussions and meetings<br />

on the UK real-estate<br />

market, there will be<br />

presentations from major<br />

UK cities, private-sector<br />

fi rms and government<br />

development agencies.<br />

100 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />

➳ GOING GLOBAL<br />

Dr Nouriel Roubini,<br />

professor of economics at<br />

New York’s Stern School of<br />

Business, will address the<br />

conference about the global<br />

economic outlook and its<br />

implication for the realestate<br />

industry. Dr Roubini is<br />

a highly regarded economist<br />

and US government advisor,<br />

who was one of the few<br />

people to predict the<br />

current economic crisis.<br />

Don’t miss it.<br />

➳ DENIS TERSEN CEO<br />

PARIS REGION ECONOMIC<br />

DEVELOPMENT AGENCY FRANCE<br />

“Our role is to generate investment from<br />

overseas investors and enterprises in Paris<br />

and its surrounding regions, so MIPIM is<br />

hugely important to us as a way of reaching<br />

a broad base of international businesses.<br />

“We can provide information on all of<br />

Paris’s regions, so we can help companies<br />

identify the locations with the best realestate<br />

options, transport links and<br />

facilities for them.<br />

“We’re aiming to promote Paris as<br />

somewhere for sustainable building and<br />

green technology. We’re also a region<br />

that off ers a high level of creativity and<br />

innovation, technological and scientifi c<br />

research. Explaining all of this is easier<br />

through face-to-face contact with people.<br />

“Both the private and public sectors<br />

have had a bad time over the past few years,<br />

so we’re likely to see more partnerships<br />

between the sectors now. It’s also useful<br />

to show that government can play a part<br />

in generating development, and that plans<br />

need to be put in place for the long term.”<br />

MIPIM HIGHLIGHTS<br />

WORK THE ROOM AT ONE OF THESE TALKS OR EVENTS<br />

➳ AND THE REST<br />

Other highlights include<br />

workshops about moving<br />

into emerging markets,<br />

country and industryspecifi<br />

c presentations,<br />

and the prestigious MIPIM<br />

awards ceremony. One of the<br />

projects everyone is buzzing<br />

about is the new Venezia<br />

Lifestyle Center (pictured<br />

overleaf), an urban shopping<br />

and offi ce centre just<br />

outside Venice, which is<br />

due to open in March 2012.<br />

➳ MARKUS NEURAUTER MD<br />

RAIFFEISEN EVOLUTION AUSTRIA<br />

“As a commercial and residential developer<br />

we work across 11 countries in Europe and<br />

have been attending MIPIM since 2004.<br />

We’re sending eight delegates this year, and<br />

will be joining the Austrian stand. MIPIM is<br />

a good chance to meet new contacts in the<br />

real-estate industry and present projects for<br />

investment opportunities.<br />

“We have several projects in the pipeline<br />

right now but SkyTower is probably the<br />

most spectacular. This offi ce block is going<br />

to be the tallest building in Bucharest and<br />

is part of an urban development in the<br />

northeast of the city. I think <strong>2011</strong> will be<br />

the year when the markets, especially<br />

in central and south Eastern Europe, will<br />

start to grow again.”<br />

➳ JOHN WRIGHT<br />

DIRECTOR OF NATIONAL ACCOUNTS<br />

VACANT PROPERTY SPECIALISTS UK<br />

“This is the fi rst year we’ve attended<br />

MIPIM. We decided to take a stand this year<br />

because we feel our business, which off ers<br />

security solutions to vacant commercial<br />

premises, is ready to expand – the downturn<br />

has caused more retail and business units<br />

to become empty and there’s potential for<br />

growth. We have a presence in the US and<br />

most areas of Europe but feel it would be<br />

useful to show what we do to a wider global<br />

audience. MIPIM is the ideal forum for that.<br />

“MIPIM is a one-of-a-kind opportunity to<br />

expand our portfolio, build relationships and<br />

explain our business model to people who<br />

don’t yet know about the services we can<br />

off er. It also gives us the chance to see<br />

what potential there is in new markets.<br />

I think <strong>2011</strong> will see an increase in the need<br />

for property-management services such as<br />

ours in other countries.”<br />

MIPIM runs from 8–11 March, mipim.com<br />

easyJet flies to...<br />

Nice from 13 destinations.<br />

See our insider guide on page 166.<br />

Book online at easyJet.com


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INTRODUCING THE<br />

VERANDA RESORT<br />

Having your own luxury place under the Egyptian sun by<br />

the Red Sea is the stuff of dreams. With aff ordable<br />

apartments and villas at Veranda, your dream can come true<br />

VERANDA IS BUILDING a reputation as<br />

one of Egypt’s leading resorts. Nestling on<br />

the Red Sea coast, Veranda is a collection<br />

of villas and apartments set among white<br />

beaches, blue swimming pools and rolling<br />

golf courses. It’s an excellent example<br />

of natural beauty working in harmony<br />

with the best in architectural design. The<br />

resort was created by Saleh Hamdy, one of<br />

Egypt’s leading architects, whose previous<br />

work includes fi ve-star hotels in Cairo and<br />

various embassy buildings.<br />

Veranda is located in the heart of Sahl<br />

Hasheesh, a vibrant new community of<br />

hotels, restaurants, shops and marinas.<br />

And getting there couldn’t be easier, for<br />

the village is conveniently located 20<br />

minutes from Hurghada International<br />

airport with daily fl ights direct from UK and<br />

European airports.<br />

The Veranda Resort is centred around<br />

a series of pools, waterfalls, lagoons,<br />

walkways and stunning views of the<br />

surrounding golf course and Red Sea. You<br />

can spend your day diving in the warm<br />

waters of the bay, playing a round of golf,<br />

working out at the gym, relaxing at the<br />

spa, having lunch at one of Veranda’s<br />

outstanding restaurants or chilling out by<br />

your own private pool soaking up the allyear-round<br />

sunshine and warm climate.<br />

And at Veranda, luxury comes at an<br />

aff ordable price. Prices start from only<br />

£55,000 for apartments and £310,000<br />

for villas. The resort also off ers a variety of<br />

fi nancing options, including a seven-year<br />

payment plan.<br />

The Veranda Resort. An is an aff ordable<br />

luxury not to miss out on.<br />

Tel: +20 237 620 166<br />

Email: info@verandaegypt.com<br />

verandaegypt.com<br />

ADVERTISING PROMOTION<br />

Entrance to the Sahl<br />

Hasheesh resort


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IN THE LAP OF LUXURY<br />

Choose the right package and you won’t have to break<br />

the bank to get a taste of the Monte-Carlo high life<br />

THE MONTE-CARLO SBM group is<br />

synonymous with prestige and luxury<br />

around the world, and off ers a fantastic<br />

stay at the best leisure venues in the<br />

principality. These include hotels, casinos,<br />

33 bars and restaurants, spas, Moods<br />

Music Bar and Buddha-Bar.<br />

Enjoy Monte-Carlo with an exclusive<br />

package at the Monte-Carlo Bay Hotel &<br />

Resort. Costing from €218 per night for<br />

two people, it includes:<br />

➼ A three-night stay in a double room with<br />

buff et breakfast<br />

➼ A VIP welcome with Champagne<br />

➼ A Monte-Carlo Invitation Card of €50 to<br />

spend in the resort<br />

➼ A Monte-Carlo SBM Carte d'Or, which<br />

gives free access to the Casino de Monte-<br />

Carlo and shuttle buses around the resort,<br />

plus 50% discount on fees at the Monte-<br />

Carlo Golf Club and the Monte-Carlo<br />

Country Club, which has 23 tennis courts.<br />

The Hotel de Paris, Hotel Hermitage,<br />

Monte-Carlo Bay Hotel & Resort and<br />

Monte-Carlo Beach also off er packages.<br />

Monte-Carlo Rolex Masters: 9–17 April<br />

Celebrating its 105th anniversary this<br />

year, this annual tournament remains both<br />

a player and fan favourite thanks to its<br />

Mediterranean location and stellar line-up<br />

of athletes.<br />

The Everest Poker One: 21–24 April<br />

Held at the Salle des Palmiers and with<br />

a prize pool of €1m, this is one gaming<br />

experience not be missed.<br />

Formula One: 26–29 May<br />

Widely considered one of the most<br />

prestigious and glamorous events in the<br />

motor racing calendar, the glitterati and<br />

motoring enthusiasts alike fl ock to this<br />

exhilarating Grand Prix event, staged<br />

around the narrow and winding streets of<br />

Monte-Carlo.<br />

Monte-Carlo events <strong>2011</strong><br />

Monte-Carlo Rolex Masters: 9–17 April<br />

The Everest Poker One: 21–24 April<br />

Formula One: 26–29 May<br />

tel: +377 98 062525; montecarloresort.com<br />

ADVERTISING PROMOTION<br />

Clockwise from left, Monte-Carlo Beach Hotel; Monte-<br />

Carlo Rolex Masters; The Everest Poker One; Formula<br />

One; Monte-Carlo Bay Hotel & Resort


A–Z | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />

Madeira<br />

CANARY<br />

ISLANDS<br />

Lanzarote<br />

Fuerteventura<br />

Tenerife<br />

South<br />

DESTINATION<br />

GUIDES<br />

A–Z<br />

Gran<br />

Canaria<br />

106 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />

Agadir<br />

PORTUGAL<br />

Lisbon<br />

Faro<br />

Casablanca<br />

Marrakech<br />

Gibraltar<br />

Tangier<br />

Porto<br />

NEW<br />

Seville<br />

Fez<br />

NEW<br />

Santiago de<br />

Compostela<br />

Málaga<br />

MOROCCO<br />

Asturias<br />

Madrid<br />

Almería<br />

SPAIN<br />

Bilbao<br />

Valencia<br />

Alicante<br />

Murcia<br />

Belfast<br />

BHD<br />

Belfast BFS<br />

Jersey<br />

Biarritz<br />

Nantes<br />

Barcelona<br />

Ibiza<br />

La Rochelle<br />

Bordeaux<br />

Inverness<br />

Aberdeen<br />

Glasgow<br />

Liverpool<br />

Newcastle<br />

Birmingham<br />

Bristol<br />

London STN<br />

Bournemouth LTN<br />

LGW<br />

Brest<br />

Majorca<br />

Edinburgh<br />

Isle of Man Leeds Bradford<br />

Manchester<br />

UK<br />

Paris CDG<br />

Paris ORY<br />

FRANCE<br />

Toulouse Montpellier<br />

Menorca<br />

Amsterdam<br />

BELGIUM<br />

Brussels<br />

Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg<br />

Lyon<br />

Grenoble<br />

Marseille Nice<br />

NETHERLANDS<br />

Düsseldorf<br />

Zürich<br />

Geneva<br />

SWITZERLAND<br />

Corsica<br />

(Ajaccio)<br />

Milan<br />

MXP<br />

Milan LIN<br />

Corsica<br />

(Bastia)<br />

Olbia<br />

Cagliari


Hamburg<br />

Dortmund<br />

Cologne/<br />

Bonn<br />

GERMANY<br />

NEW<br />

Munich<br />

Verona<br />

Bologna<br />

ITALY<br />

Pisa<br />

DENMARK<br />

Venice<br />

Berlin<br />

CZECH REPUBLIC<br />

AUSTRIA<br />

Innsbruck<br />

NEW<br />

Rome<br />

CIA<br />

Dresden<br />

Palermo<br />

SLOVENIA<br />

Ljubljana<br />

Zagreb<br />

CROATIA<br />

POLAND<br />

Prague Kraków<br />

Rome<br />

FCO<br />

Malta<br />

Salzburg<br />

SWEDEN<br />

Gothenburg<br />

Copenhagen<br />

Vienna<br />

Split<br />

Naples<br />

Lamezia<br />

Catania<br />

Stockholm<br />

Dubrovnik<br />

HUNGARY<br />

Bari<br />

Brindisi<br />

Budapest<br />

Corfu<br />

Zante<br />

KOSOVO<br />

Helsinki<br />

Pristina<br />

GREECE<br />

FINLAND<br />

Tallinn<br />

ESTONIA<br />

Sofi a<br />

Thessaloniki<br />

ROMANIA<br />

BULGARIA<br />

Bucharest<br />

Athens<br />

Mykonos<br />

Kos<br />

Bodrum Antalya<br />

Dalaman<br />

Santorini Rhodes<br />

Crete<br />

(Chania)<br />

Crete (Heraklion)<br />

Istanbul<br />

Izmir NEW<br />

EGYPT<br />

TURKEY<br />

DESTINATION GUIDES | A–Z<br />

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Cyprus<br />

(Paphos)<br />

Hurghada<br />

Luxor<br />

Cyprus<br />

(Larnaca)<br />

Tel Aviv<br />

ISRAEL<br />

Sharm<br />

El Sheikh<br />

Amman<br />

NEW<br />

JORDAN<br />

MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 107


108 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />

Aberdeen<br />

UK<br />

DIALLING CODE +44<br />

CURRENCY £<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London (LGW, LTN)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs £15.<br />

Up to three buses<br />

an hour go to<br />

the centre until 10pm.<br />

Tickets: from £1.40.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Chi Bar &<br />

Restaurant (9 Belmont<br />

Street, tel: 01224 622<br />

010) Share a platter with<br />

a pal here or choose a<br />

dish from the extensive<br />

menu. Once you’ve<br />

satisfi ed your appetite,<br />

wander through<br />

to the well-stocked<br />

bar for a cocktail.<br />

EXCLUSIVE 210<br />

Bistro (210 South<br />

Market Street, tel:<br />

01224 211 857) Enjoy a<br />

fi ne-dining experience<br />

here. The chefs are<br />

sure to cook up a real<br />

treat using the fi nest<br />

local produce, and with<br />

an extensive wine list<br />

chosen by renowned<br />

wine merchant Graham<br />

Donaldson, there’s a<br />

wine to suit all dishes.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY The Dutch<br />

Mill (7 Queens Road,<br />

tel: 01224 322 555)<br />

The Dutch Mill is a<br />

family-run hotel bar and<br />

restaurant in the West<br />

End. Choose your tipple<br />

from the well-stocked<br />

bar and enjoy the cosy<br />

surroundings, or head<br />

to the conservatory.<br />

LATE & LIVELY Dusk<br />

(51 Langstane Place)<br />

One of the trendiest<br />

nightspots in the city,<br />

Dusk’s cocktail list is<br />

sure to have something<br />

to tantalise your taste<br />

buds. Alternatively, ask<br />

the mixologists to shake<br />

up something new.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Emlou Fashion<br />

Boutique is a women’s<br />

store in the heart of the<br />

city. Bridging the gap<br />

between high street and<br />

designer, with brands<br />

such as Almost Famous,<br />

Ben Sherman and Ruby<br />

Rocks (The Galleria,<br />

Langstane Place,<br />

tel: 01224 588 905).<br />

GO Celebrate the fi nest<br />

cuisine as chefs serve<br />

seasonal spring dishes<br />

from rustic bistro to<br />

fi ne dining. Off ering<br />

something for every<br />

pocket, Dine on Deeside<br />

is guaranteed to fi re up<br />

gastro imaginations and<br />

tickle the taste buds. On<br />

18–27 March (discover<br />

royaldeeside.com).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Aberdeen granite was<br />

used to build London’s<br />

Waterloo Bridge and<br />

the terraces of the<br />

Houses of Parliament.<br />

Beverley Tricker<br />

Agadir<br />

Morocco<br />

DIALLING CODE +212<br />

CURRENCY MAD<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London (LGW), Lyon,<br />

Milan (MXP), Paris (CDG)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com. A<br />

local taxi costs MAD200.<br />

Route 22 to<br />

Inezgane runs<br />

every 40 minutes.<br />

Tickets: MAD4. From<br />

there take a bus to Agadir.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Ibtissam<br />

(Place Tamri, Talborjt)<br />

Ibtissam serves fresh<br />

Moroccan and Italian<br />

dishes at low prices.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Mozartstube (24<br />

Avenue des FAR, tel:<br />

0528 824 564) It’s an<br />

unexpected treat to<br />

fi nd delicious European<br />

cuisine in this classy<br />

little Austrian restaurant<br />

tucked away off the main<br />

thoroughfare of Agadir.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Camels<br />

(Front de Mer) Camels<br />

is situated on arguably<br />

the most popular<br />

stretch of Agadir’s new<br />

promenade. Come to<br />

Is your holiday home<br />

fully booked?<br />

Register with us to advertise to 27 million people a month.<br />

We guarantee you booking enquiries, or your money back!<br />

this spot to chill out after<br />

a hot day on the beach.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Factory (Boulevard du<br />

20 Août) If you’re looking<br />

to be cool and hip,<br />

hang out at the Factory.<br />

Regular live bands and<br />

DJs play until 4am.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Banana Beach<br />

provides a backdrop for<br />

the colourful produce of<br />

the Wednesday market<br />

in the village of Aourir.<br />

GO With its upmarket<br />

bars, restaurants, cafés<br />

and shops, the marina<br />

provides a beautiful<br />

setting to idle away your<br />

day. With an impressive<br />

backdrop leading to<br />

the Kasbah, it’s well<br />

worth a visit.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Mint tea, a refreshing<br />

Moroccan beverage, is<br />

made from green tea<br />

with the addition of<br />

mint leaves and enough<br />

sugar to satisfy a sweet<br />

tooth for a month or so.<br />

Anne Imisliou<br />

KENZI<br />

EUROPA<br />

★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />

This hotel is situated<br />

in the heart of Agadir,<br />

in a modern complex<br />

of elegant rooms<br />

with warm décor.<br />

Breakfast included.<br />

From €90, book at<br />

hotels.easyJet.com.<br />

Alicante<br />

Spain<br />

DIALLING CODE +34<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

Belfast (BFS), Bristol,<br />

Edinburgh, Geneva,<br />

Glasgow, Liverpool,<br />

London (LGW, LTN, STN),<br />

Manchester, Newcastle<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com. A<br />

local taxi costs €15–€20.<br />

A direct service to<br />

Benidorm runs<br />

hourly from 8am–11pm.<br />

Tickets: €8.<br />

TAXI Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 La Cava<br />

del Albir (5–8 Cami<br />

de la Cantera, tel:<br />

966 864 705) Try the<br />

smoked salmon, crab<br />

or spicy hot chorizo<br />

sausage on crispy<br />

fresh bread for a light<br />

but tasty lunch at<br />

this newly opened<br />

smart tapas bar<br />

and restaurant.<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Al Fresco (9 Carretera<br />

de Benidorm, Finestrat<br />

Pueblo, tel: 965 878<br />

478) The Al Fresco<br />

restaurant surprises<br />

with its creative<br />

Mediterranean cuisine.<br />

The specialities,<br />

including pork and<br />

fi sh dishes, are<br />

served with exquisite<br />

sauces, while the wine<br />

list also delights.<br />

D’Els Artistas<br />

(6 Plaza de la Iglesia,<br />

tel: 96 584 1269)<br />

Swiss chef Roland<br />

Broggi cooks<br />

traditional French<br />

dishes with his own<br />

classical touch. Try the<br />

Coquille Sant Jacque<br />

(scallops) or boned<br />

turbot in morel sauce.<br />

UP TO €50 El<br />

Cortijo (Urbanización<br />

Maryvilla, Calpe, tel:<br />

965 832 933) Head<br />

outside here to eat<br />

on the Andalucianstyle<br />

patio in the<br />

garden. Guests can<br />

enjoy masterfully<br />

presented Basque-<br />

French cuisine<br />

accompanied by fi ne<br />

regional wines.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Nuevo Alcázar<br />

(2 Calle Argentina,<br />

Urbanización<br />

Panorama, La Nucía,<br />

tel: 965 873 208) Four<br />

dining areas around<br />

a Moorish patio with<br />

tinkling fountains set<br />

the scene for a venue<br />

serving a magnifi cent<br />

mix of French, Belgian<br />

and Mediterranean<br />

cooking by master chef<br />

Javier Boccalandro.<br />

Scampis Alcázar, trio<br />

of fi sh, Chateaubriand<br />

and rack of lamb<br />

will all delight.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Bar<br />

Penelope (Levante<br />

Promenade, Benidorm)<br />

Relax with a glass of<br />

Join before 30 April to get £80 off a Premium<br />

Advert (normally £299) plus you will also get a<br />

FREE listing on (Quote EJOFFER)


wine and see the world<br />

stroll by at Penelope.<br />

Great for watching<br />

glorious sunsets over<br />

the Old Quarter.<br />

LIVE MUSIC Blues<br />

(Levante Beach,<br />

Benidorm) Located<br />

at the south end of<br />

Levante Beach, this<br />

venue features cool<br />

blues with horns<br />

wailing well into the<br />

night. After-hours jam<br />

sessions bring out the<br />

best of the local jazz<br />

talent. Don’t forget<br />

your clarinet.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Zodiac (Calle Gerona,<br />

Benidorm) A club-café<br />

with acts including<br />

comedians, artists,<br />

impressionists and<br />

even hypnotists.<br />

Open until 5am<br />

with good music and<br />

plenty of laughs.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Visit Altea’s<br />

beachside market,<br />

which takes place<br />

every Tuesday. One<br />

of the largest on the<br />

Costa Blanca, the<br />

market sells everything<br />

from fruit and<br />

vegetables to home<br />

furnishings, clothing<br />

and leatherwork.<br />

SEE The Costa Blanca<br />

celebrates Las Fallas<br />

from 16–19 March,<br />

which is traditionally<br />

when huge bonfi res<br />

were lit to celebrate<br />

the end of winter<br />

darkness. Now the<br />

festivities see huge,<br />

humorous effi gies<br />

of politicians and<br />

celebrities burned<br />

in the streets amid<br />

singing and dancing.<br />

The best and biggest<br />

Fallas is in Valencia,<br />

but all towns celebrate<br />

with huge fi rework<br />

displays. This is an<br />

event not to be missed.<br />

GO Spend a lazy<br />

day chilling out on<br />

the sands of beautiful<br />

La Cala bay in<br />

Finestrat. There’s<br />

good, sheltered<br />

swimming, and<br />

plenty of restaurants<br />

and bars for a relaxed<br />

alfresco meal in<br />

the springtime sun.<br />

ESCAPE Take a<br />

Jeep safari into the<br />

hinterland of the Costa<br />

Blanca. You’ll drive<br />

in a professionally<br />

led convoy to visit<br />

ancient villages<br />

lost in time, and<br />

lunch on traditional<br />

country fare.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Don Quixote,<br />

considered to be the<br />

fi rst modern novel, was<br />

written by the Spaniard<br />

Miguel de Cervantes.<br />

Danny Collins<br />

PUEBLO<br />

ACANTILADO<br />

★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />

Suspended on a<br />

spectacular cliff , and<br />

with the best views of<br />

the coast, this resort<br />

recreates the fl avour of<br />

typical Costa Blanca.<br />

From €75, book at<br />

hotels.easyJet.com.<br />

Almería<br />

Spain<br />

DIALLING CODE +34<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London (LGW)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €13.<br />

Route 20 goes<br />

to the centre.<br />

Tickets: €1.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Arrecife<br />

(Calle Cala Higuera,<br />

San José, tel: 950<br />

380 425) Arrecife<br />

has a varied menu,<br />

which includes<br />

budget-priced<br />

combination dishes<br />

such as chicken<br />

breast with chips,<br />

salad and fried egg.<br />

There are also some<br />

great Mediterranean<br />

specials, such as<br />

rabbit in garlic,<br />

paella and fresh fi sh.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Hotel<br />

Catedral (8 Plaza de<br />

la Catedral, tel: 950<br />

278 178) Set in the<br />

heart of the Old Town,<br />

this stylish hotel is<br />

the place to come for<br />

high-end meals in<br />

a formal setting.<br />

Booking is advisable.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY<br />

El Emigrante (55 Calle<br />

Correos, San José, tel:<br />

950 380 114) A quiet<br />

bar with restaurant<br />

attached in the very<br />

chilled-out village of<br />

San José. Chew on<br />

the free tapa which<br />

comes with each<br />

beer and listen to<br />

the local tittle tattle.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Guarapo (3 Plaza<br />

Antonio González<br />

Egea) A bar in the party<br />

zone at the heart of<br />

the Old Town, near the<br />

cathedral. The DJ spins<br />

dance and disco hits<br />

until the early hours.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP The central food<br />

market off Calle Aguilar<br />

de Campo is bustling.<br />

It’s a great place to<br />

stroll to to see a bit of<br />

real Spain, as well as<br />

pick up a few bargains.<br />

SEE The line-up for the<br />

11th Musicas del Alma<br />

festival in San Javier<br />

includes Steve Lukather,<br />

guitarist, singer and<br />

songwriter for Toto, on<br />

12 March. Tickets for<br />

all concerts at Parque<br />

Almansa cost €10 and<br />

are available from the<br />

town hall box offi ce<br />

(jazz.sanjavier.es).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The highest mountain<br />

on the Iberian<br />

peninsula, Mulhacén<br />

(3,478m), and the<br />

third-highest peak,<br />

Veleta (3,394m), both<br />

lie in the Sierra Nevada<br />

mountain range to<br />

the west of Almería.<br />

David Jones<br />

DESTINATION GUIDES | 109<br />

Amsterdam<br />

Netherlands<br />

DIALLING CODE +31<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Barcelona, Basel-<br />

Mulhouse, Belfast (BFS),<br />

Berlin, Bristol, Edinburgh,<br />

Geneva, Liverpool,<br />

London (LGW, LTN, STN),<br />

Madrid, Manchester,<br />

Milan (MXP), Prague,<br />

Rome (FCO), Split<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €40.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

There are seven<br />

trains an hour to<br />

Centraal station.<br />

Tickets: €3.80 single.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15<br />

Maoz Vegetarian<br />

(1 Muntplein, tel: 020<br />

420 7435) There<br />

are branches of this<br />

self-service falafel salad<br />

bar all over Europe and<br />

the US, including Times<br />

Square in New York,<br />

but this is where the<br />

franchise started in 1991.<br />

The tasty pitta bread<br />

pockets are wholesome,<br />

fi lling and cheap as chips<br />

(which, by the way, are<br />

also available).<br />

UP TO €30 Barça (30<br />

Marie Heinekenplein,<br />

tel: 020 470 4144)<br />

Situated in the trendy<br />

de Pijp neighbourhood,<br />

this uncharacteristically<br />

large tapas bar and<br />

restaurant can brighten<br />

the darkest of drizzly<br />

days, with its wide<br />

selection of hearty<br />

Iberian classics and its<br />

well-priced wine list.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Lion Noir (28<br />

Reguliersdwarsstraat,<br />

tel: 020 627 6603)<br />

This glamorous new<br />

restaurant has taken<br />

discretion to the point<br />

of anonymity; the lack<br />

of signage and all-black<br />

storefront give it the air<br />

of a private members’<br />

club. Inside you’ll fi nd<br />

quirky art, good-looking<br />

staff and a sublime<br />

menu that incorporates<br />

a lot of meat. The<br />

oysters are fresh<br />

and fabulous, so order<br />

at least a few.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY<br />

Café Schiller<br />

(24A Rembrandtplein,<br />

tel: 020 624 9846)<br />

Situated on Rembrandt<br />

Square (check out the<br />

statue in the middle),<br />

this handsome building<br />

is a relatively quiet<br />

place to stop off for a<br />

drink before a night at<br />

the gorgeous art-deco<br />

Tuschinski cinema<br />

nearby. Service is as<br />

bright and breezy<br />

as the café itself.<br />

LIVE MUSIC<br />

Heineken Music Hall<br />

(590 Arena Boulevard,<br />

tel: 0900 687 4242) If<br />

you’re lucky, you might<br />

get tickets to The Black<br />

Keys (18 March)


110 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />

Amsterdam<br />

Netherlands<br />

or one of the other<br />

many fantastic acts<br />

playing this month.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Chupitos (25<br />

Zieseniskade) This<br />

recently opened shooter<br />

bar is Amsterdam’s<br />

fi rst, and the aim<br />

was to recreate the<br />

vibe of similar spots<br />

in Barcelona. Down<br />

a chupito (“shot” in<br />

Spanish) named after a<br />

cult legend such as Bob<br />

Marley and Che Guevara.<br />

It attracts a young<br />

crowd, and the staff<br />

aren’t averse to cocktailstyle<br />

showmanship.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Amsterdam<br />

has more than its fair<br />

share of independent<br />

jewellery designers,<br />

but Artwear Jordaan<br />

on Brouwersgracht<br />

treads the line between<br />

fancy and fanciful, with<br />

colourful trinkets galore<br />

(tel: 020 845 5317,<br />

artwearjordaan.com).<br />

SEE If you’re in town<br />

during the fi rst week<br />

of this month, and like<br />

your music loud and<br />

experimental, check<br />

out the annual 5 Days<br />

Off festival at Paradiso.<br />

It’s fast becoming<br />

one of Europe’s best<br />

electronica events<br />

(5daysoff .nl).<br />

GO One of<br />

Amsterdam’s<br />

southernmost districts,<br />

Rivierenbuurt boasts<br />

plenty of buildings from<br />

the Amsterdam school<br />

of architecture and two<br />

beautiful parks. If the<br />

weather’s bad, check<br />

out what’s going on<br />

in the mammoth RAI<br />

convention centre<br />

(22 Europaplein).<br />

ESCAPE If getting<br />

out of the city is more<br />

than you can manage<br />

on a short stay, a<br />

diff erent taste of the<br />

Netherlands can be<br />

found just a few steps<br />

away from the bustling<br />

Spui. The Begijnhof is<br />

a secluded sanctuary<br />

dating from the<br />

Middle Ages. Originally<br />

intended as a retreat<br />

for religious women, it<br />

remains a beautiful spot<br />

for quiet contemplation<br />

to this day.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Amsterdammers think<br />

nothing of a spot of<br />

inner-city horse riding.<br />

Half way down one<br />

of the city’s busiest<br />

roads, the Hollandsche<br />

Manege equestrian<br />

centre has been in<br />

business for more<br />

than 125 years.<br />

Mark Smith<br />

UP TO €50<br />

Toscanini (75<br />

Lindengracht, tel: 020<br />

623 2813) Dishes on<br />

the menu are made<br />

entirely from organic<br />

and ethically sourced<br />

ingredients. Fine<br />

homemade pasta is<br />

the star here.<br />

Antalya<br />

Turkey<br />

DIALLING CODE +90<br />

CURRENCY TRY<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London (LGW)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €25.<br />

Hava Buses<br />

service the city<br />

centre every 30 minutes.<br />

Tickets: €5 single.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Basoglu<br />

Balık Restaurant<br />

(Meltem Mahallesi, 4<br />

Kapalı Halk Pazarı, tel:<br />

0242 237 8328) Select<br />

your own fi sh from<br />

Basoglu’s stall adjacent<br />

to the restaurant. This is<br />

where the locals gather<br />

for a meal; it’s very<br />

reasonably priced,<br />

and there’s fast and<br />

effi cient service.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Ristorante Verona<br />

(Ramada Plaza Antalya,<br />

22 Fevzi Çakmak<br />

Caddesi, tel: 0242 249<br />

1111) Á la carte Italian<br />

cuisine of this quality<br />

is a rarity in Antalya.<br />

Verona off ers a varied<br />

menu with great pasta,<br />

pizza, seafood and main<br />

course meat dishes to<br />

satisfy any palate, all<br />

accompanied by an<br />

especially good wine list.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Uzaklar<br />

(223A Eski Lara Yolu,<br />

irinyalı Mahallesi) Enjoy<br />

a good martini in a<br />

congenial lounge-bar<br />

atmosphere. This<br />

bar supports a great<br />

selection of imported<br />

beverages and also<br />

off ers low-key jazz.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Indigo’s Pub (Ramada<br />

Plaza Antalya, 22 Fevzi<br />

Çakmak Caddesi, tel:<br />

0242 249 1111) Midweek<br />

this is the only place to<br />

hear good jazz and blues.<br />

If you’re into oldies,<br />

the same band will stir<br />

your memories and<br />

heartstrings on Friday<br />

and weekend nights.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Rasayana is an<br />

organic store off ering<br />

all things healthy, from<br />

herbal teas and organic<br />

grains to scented oils<br />

and soaps (Bahçelievler<br />

Mh, Pamir Caddesi, 54<br />

Hamitbey apartments).<br />

GO Visit the Suna-Inan<br />

Kıraç Kaleiçi Museum<br />

or the Yivli Minaret and<br />

Ulu Mosque near the<br />

harbour, in the Old City<br />

of Kaleiçi within Antalya.<br />

Fishermen off er boat<br />

trips to view waterfalls<br />

along the beautiful coast.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Antalya was supposedly<br />

founded in 150BC, but<br />

recent excavations at<br />

Dogu Garaji point to a<br />

more likely date in the<br />

third century BC.<br />

Jon Stigner<br />

Asturias<br />

Spain<br />

DIALLING CODE +34<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Geneva,<br />

London (STN)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €53<br />

to Oviedo, €45 Gijón<br />

and €23 Avilés.<br />

The Express bus<br />

runs hourly from<br />

6am–10pm to Oviedo<br />

and Gijón. Tickets:<br />

€6.35. Buses to Avilés<br />

cost €1.35.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Calleja<br />

Real (12 Calle Alfonso<br />

VII, tel: 984 830 104)<br />

This new restaurant<br />

has just opened on a<br />

well-known bar-hopping<br />

street in Avilés. The<br />

venue is cosy and<br />

warmly decorated. Split<br />

a few mouthwatering<br />

fi sh dishes and a bottle<br />

of wine with friends.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Restaurante Diego (23<br />

Avenida Galicia, tel: 985<br />

508 579) This top-notch<br />

restaurant near the<br />

seaside resort of Salinas<br />

opened in 2007 and<br />

continues to produce<br />

excellent fi sh dishes<br />

such as monkfi sh or<br />

octopus. The chef, Diego,<br />

has introduced a new<br />

concept, off ering haute<br />

cuisine on a set menu.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Los Tres<br />

Tenores (20 Calle<br />

Galiana) One of the<br />

most popular, smart but<br />

laidback wine bars on<br />

the town’s main drag<br />

in the Old Quarter. It’s<br />

a great place to have<br />

a pre-dinner drink.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Barlovento (12 Marqués<br />

de San Esteban, Gijón) A<br />

great stomping ground<br />

in Gijón’s lively club area<br />

on the Poniente beach. It<br />

stays open until 7am and<br />

a long galley-style bar<br />

keeps the drinks fl owing.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Kit yourself<br />

out with stylish gear<br />

by famous designer<br />

Adolfo Dominguez at<br />

one of a number of his<br />

boutiques in the region<br />

(7 Covadonga, Gijón).<br />

SEE Banned during<br />

the Franco years,<br />

Asturians celebrate<br />

Antroxu (carnival) with a<br />

vengeance. Party week<br />

this year is from 2–9<br />

March, and festivities<br />

include fl amboyant<br />

fl oats, fancy dress and<br />

gastronomic indulgence.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

On the Thursday before<br />

Ash Wednesday (3<br />

March) it’s a deep-rooted<br />

Asturian tradition for<br />

comadres (female<br />

friends) to get together<br />

for a celebratory drink.<br />

Karen Thomas


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112 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />

Athens<br />

Greece<br />

DIALLING CODE +30<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Berlin, London<br />

(LGW), Manchester,<br />

Milan (MXP), Paris<br />

(ORY), Rome (FCO)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €35.<br />

Proastiako and<br />

metro line trains<br />

service the city. Tickets:<br />

€6 single; €10 return.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Cabrio<br />

(34–36 Kastorias Street,<br />

Votanikos, tel: 210 348<br />

0000) The colourful and<br />

modern café-restaurant<br />

in the Athinais arts<br />

centre has a small but<br />

well-executed menu with<br />

multi-ethnic overtones.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Funky Gourmet (13<br />

Paramythias Street, tel:<br />

210 524 2727) Always<br />

on the cutting edge<br />

of culinary art, chefs<br />

Hiliadaki, Bantis and<br />

Roussos have taken<br />

a few pointers from<br />

across the Atlantic and<br />

produced their own<br />

table-top desserts at<br />

this restaurant.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY The Kinky<br />

Café (24 Megalou<br />

Alexandrou Street)<br />

The name says it all.<br />

The erotic ambience<br />

is reinforced by the<br />

artwork on the walls and<br />

the suggestively named<br />

drinks on the menu.<br />

Defi nitely X-rated.<br />

LATE & LIVELY D.C.<br />

(30–32 Iera Odos Street,<br />

Gazi) This mainstream<br />

club is decorated to look<br />

like a street with the<br />

walls of the buildings<br />

removed, letting you<br />

see parts of a garage,<br />

a kitchen, a living room<br />

and a school library.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Block colours,<br />

animal appliques and<br />

clothes as collage: the<br />

Heel Shop is 100%<br />

Greek and fun – it’s all<br />

about discovering the<br />

child within (11 Irakleitou<br />

Street, heelshop.gr).<br />

SEE The exhibition<br />

Obsessions & Intimacy,<br />

featuring work by<br />

Austrian artists, will<br />

be on display at the<br />

B&M Theocharakis<br />

Foundation for the<br />

Fine Arts and Music<br />

throughout the month (9<br />

Vassilissis Sofi as Avenue,<br />

tel: 210 361 1206).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

March coincides with<br />

Orthodox Lent, which<br />

is a much stricter aff air<br />

than in most of Europe.<br />

Apart from chocolate, a<br />

decent Lent fast bans all<br />

types of meat, eggs and<br />

dairy products, except<br />

“bloodless” seafood<br />

such as shellfi sh.<br />

Eva Webster<br />

Barcelona<br />

Spain<br />

DIALLING CODE +34<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Amsterdam,<br />

Basel-Mulhouse, Belfast<br />

(BFS), Berlin, Bristol,<br />

Dortmund, Geneva,<br />

Lisbon, Liverpool,<br />

London (LGW, LTN,<br />

STN), Lyon, Milan<br />

(MXP), Newcastle<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €30.<br />

The Aerobus runs<br />

a frequent service<br />

to Plaça Catalunya.<br />

Tickets: €5.<br />

Trains service the<br />

Sants Estació.<br />

Tickets: €2.50.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 La Divina<br />

(5 Carrer d’Ataulf, tel: 93<br />

180 6940) Tucked out of<br />

sight in the Barri Gotic,<br />

this suave little barrestaurant<br />

serves tasty<br />

Euro-Iberian and Tex-Mex<br />

cuisine at friendly prices.<br />

During lunch (1–4pm),<br />

take advantage of the<br />

three-course menú del<br />

día for under €10.<br />

UP TO €30 Mesón<br />

David (63 Carrer de<br />

Carretas, tel: 93 441<br />

5934) Classic Spanish<br />

dishes from every<br />

region of the country<br />

have found their way<br />

on to the menu of this<br />

superb restaurant.<br />

Basque hake, Navarran<br />

trout and Galician stews<br />

are all served in huge<br />

portions – suffi ce to say<br />

no one leaves Mesón<br />

David hungry.<br />

UP TO €50 I Buoni<br />

Amici (193 Carrer<br />

Casanova, tel: 93<br />

439 6816) With its<br />

quirky décor, intimate<br />

atmosphere and<br />

delicious pasta, it’s no<br />

surprise this is one<br />

of L’Eixample’s most<br />

popular Italian eateries. I<br />

Buoni Amici also serves<br />

a mean steak if you fancy<br />

something more meaty.<br />

EXCLUSIVE 7 Portes<br />

(14 Passeig Isabel II,<br />

tel: 93 319 3033) A<br />

Barcelona icon since<br />

1836, the stately 7 Portes<br />

has seen generations<br />

of genteel Barcelonans<br />

pass through its seven<br />

doors for wonderful<br />

seafood and rice dishes.<br />

The paella is legendary.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Cervecería<br />

Jazz (44 Carrer de<br />

Margarit, tel: 93 443<br />

3259) A tremendous fi nd<br />

in the earthy district of<br />

Poble Sec, this bar has<br />

little to do with jazz but a<br />

lot to do with tasty beers<br />

and ales from around<br />

the world. The perfect<br />

antidote to another night<br />

of bland big-brand lager.<br />

LIVE MUSIC La Cova<br />

de les Cultures (12<br />

Carrer de l’ Ángel, tel:<br />

93 237 5260) This selfstyled<br />

“laboratory of<br />

art” is located in Gracia<br />

and throws on several<br />

concerts each month,<br />

typically ethnic jams by<br />

established musicians.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Manchester Bar (5<br />

Carrer de Milans) A<br />

cult fave among the<br />

alternative crowd, the<br />

“Manchester” part of the<br />

bar’s name is a clue to its<br />

soundtrack: Joy Division,<br />

Stone Roses and Oasis<br />

all feature heavily. A great<br />

place to start or end any<br />

pub crawl in El Gotico.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Wawas has a<br />

smorgasbord of gifts<br />

on display, from fridge<br />

magnets by local artists<br />

to tapas cookbooks and<br />

even the odd calendar.<br />

Needless to say, all are<br />

better than a T-shirt<br />

saying “My sister went<br />

to Barcelona...”<br />

(14 Carrer de Carders,<br />

wawasbarcelona.com).<br />

SEE It’s not quite<br />

Rio, but the Sitges<br />

Carnival (3–9 March)<br />

is nonetheless one<br />

HOTEL<br />

MODERNO<br />

★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />

Tucked on a side<br />

street just 20m from<br />

Las Ramblas, you’ll<br />

fi nd this your perfect<br />

Barcelona base.<br />

Breakfast included.<br />

From €95, book at<br />

hotels.easyJet.com.<br />

fantastic party. Everyone<br />

descends on the coastal<br />

resort in fancy dress<br />

and dances on the<br />

streets until dawn. The<br />

35-minute train ride<br />

from Barcelona will<br />

seem a lot easier going<br />

out than coming back<br />

with a sore head.<br />

GO The area above<br />

El Borne, known as La<br />

Ribera, is a perfect place<br />

to discover a quiet slice<br />

of Barcelona for yourself.<br />

Amid the narrow lanes,<br />

scenic squares and<br />

locally patroned cafés<br />

and bars, the splendid<br />

Palau Música Catalana<br />

rises up in all its redbrick<br />

Modernisme splendour<br />

(11 Carrer de Sant<br />

Pere Més Alt).<br />

ESCAPE The sacred<br />

mountain of Montserrat<br />

is one of the most<br />

popular day trips from<br />

Barcelona, thanks to its<br />

dramatic jagged rock<br />

face rising over the<br />

Benedictine Santa Maria<br />

abbey. The latter houses<br />

the famous 12thcentury<br />

Black Virgin<br />

statue and one of the<br />

oldest printing presses<br />

in the world. Trains<br />

leave frequently from<br />

Barcelona embarking on<br />

the hour-long journey.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

When Franco paid a<br />

visit to Palau Música<br />

Catalana in 1960, local<br />

rebels treated him to a<br />

rendition of a regional<br />

hymn in Catalan, a<br />

language the dictator<br />

had made illegal. Franco<br />

responded by having the<br />

perpetrators arrested.<br />

Duncan Rhodes/<br />

Barcelona-life.com


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BASELWORLD <strong>2011</strong><br />

The World Watch and Jewellery Show<br />

HALL OF DREAMS<br />

HALL 1.0 / STAND A21<br />

www.cuervoysobrinos.com


114 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />

Bari<br />

Italy<br />

DIALLING CODE +39<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Milan (MXP)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €25.<br />

Route 16 goes<br />

to the centre.<br />

Tickets: €0.77.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

NessunDorma (3 Via<br />

Fiume, tel: 080 522<br />

8825) A good, reliable<br />

lunch spot that serves<br />

a wide selection of<br />

pastas and local dishes.<br />

You won’t fi nd anything<br />

too fancy here, just<br />

good cheap grub.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Rococò<br />

(18 Via Ciaia, tel: 080<br />

483 4754) Set inside<br />

a stunning 1,400-yearold<br />

building, this<br />

restaurant is superb.<br />

The menu covers all<br />

tastes and the wine list<br />

is very healthy indeed.<br />

After dinner, retire to<br />

the piano bar for an<br />

Amaro or two.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Vinagre<br />

(47 Via Camillo<br />

Rosalba, tel: 080 504<br />

2844) Slightly off<br />

the beaten track, this<br />

excellent wine bar<br />

makes up for the trek<br />

with its good food. A<br />

cool, chilled-out place<br />

to kick off the evening.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Smaila’s Bari (154<br />

Via Principe Amedeo)<br />

Smaila’s is open from<br />

12.30am to 4am most<br />

nights of the week.<br />

Entrance is usually<br />

free, but on Saturdays<br />

the club sometimes<br />

hosts live acts and<br />

there’s a charge.<br />

Music-wise, it’s a bit<br />

of a mishmash – you<br />

can’t be sure quite<br />

what you’ll get – but<br />

that all adds to the fun.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Only a twominute<br />

walk from<br />

the Old Town, Borgo<br />

Murattiano and the<br />

surrounding area is<br />

a shoppers’ paradise.<br />

All the fashion<br />

boutiques and other<br />

Italian stalwarts can<br />

be found here.<br />

GO Visit Polignano a<br />

Mare, 38km from Bari.<br />

The ancient seaside<br />

town is stunning and<br />

has some of the best<br />

fi sh restaurants in<br />

Puglia. The Church of<br />

Santa Maria Assunta<br />

is a national treasure,<br />

as is the local historic<br />

art collection in the<br />

Presepe Chapel.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The beautiful Old<br />

Town of Bari claims<br />

to have the longest<br />

seafront in Italy.<br />

Max Keep<br />

Basel/<br />

Mulhouse/<br />

Freiburg<br />

Switzerland<br />

DIALLING CODE +41<br />

CURRENCY CHF<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Alicante,<br />

Amsterdam, Barcelona,<br />

Berlin, Bordeaux, Cagliari,<br />

Copenhagen, Corsica<br />

(Ajaccio), Dresden,<br />

Düsseldorf, Edinburgh,<br />

Gran Canaria, Hamburg,<br />

Istanbul, Lisbon, London<br />

(LGW), Madrid, Málaga,<br />

Marrakech, Nantes,<br />

Naples, Nice, Olbia,<br />

Rome (FCO), Porto,<br />

Pristina, Split, Tel Aviv,<br />

Thessaloniki, Venice<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs<br />

CHF40 to Basel and<br />

€40 to Mulhouse.<br />

Route 50 takes<br />

you to Basel’s<br />

main train station.<br />

Tickets: CHF3.80.<br />

In France, shuttles<br />

go to the station in<br />

Saint-Louis for trains to<br />

Mulhouse. Tickets: €1.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet infl ight rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 Paul (62<br />

Rue des Clefs, Colmar,<br />

tel: 03 8924 1662)<br />

Cosy, dependable Paul<br />

is ideal for a coff ee,<br />

croissant or light meal<br />

at any time of the day.<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Restaurant<br />

Unterlinden (2 Rue<br />

des Unterlinden,<br />

Colmar, tel: 03 8941<br />

1873) Just next to the<br />

fantastic Unterlinden<br />

Museum, this quaint<br />

spot is one of the best<br />

places in the city to try<br />

fl ammekueche, the<br />

Alsatian version of pizza.<br />

UP TO €50 Der Vierte<br />

König (20 Blumenrain,<br />

Basel, tel: 06 1261<br />

5442) Next door to<br />

Basel’s luxurious Drei<br />

Könige (Three Kings)<br />

hotel, Der Vierte König<br />

(The Fourth King)<br />

off ers mid-priced<br />

cuisine at its best. With<br />

a rustic but stylish<br />

interior, an excellent<br />

menu and the best<br />

wine list of any Basel<br />

restaurant in its class.<br />

This is a local highlight.<br />

EXCLUSIVE St<br />

Alban-Eck (60 St<br />

Alban-Vorstadt, Basel,<br />

tel: 06 1271 0320)<br />

This little jewel is<br />

situated in a charming<br />

street parallel to the<br />

Rhine. The cuisine<br />

is imaginative<br />

and includes such<br />

temptations as cold<br />

melon and mint<br />

soup, grilled steak<br />

with chanterelles and<br />

chocolate souffl é<br />

on pistachio sauce.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Charlie’s<br />

Bar (26 Rue de la Sinne,<br />

Mulhouse, tel: 03 8966<br />

1222) This bar, with<br />

authentic art-nouveau<br />

décor and piano music<br />

from 1920s Paris, is the<br />

perfect place to start<br />

the evening with a glass<br />

of chilled Champagne.<br />

LIVE MUSIC Cargo<br />

Bar (46 St Johanns-<br />

Rheinweg, Basel, tel:<br />

06 1321 0072) Basel’s<br />

best-loved alternative<br />

to the larger venues.<br />

Three nights a week,<br />

this bar fi lls to capacity<br />

and spills out on to<br />

the riverbank as jazz<br />

and rock acts keep<br />

the neighbours up.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

The Annex (14<br />

Binningerstrasse, Basel,<br />

tel: 06 1564 6600)<br />

Fridays see relaxed<br />

reggae nights, while<br />

Saturdays feature<br />

house and guest DJs<br />

at the most exclusive<br />

garage in Basel. It’s<br />

one of the gems in<br />

the cluster of clubs<br />

around Basel Zoo.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP The masks,<br />

drums and piccolos<br />

of Basel Fasnacht<br />

(carnival) are<br />

BASEL<br />

FASNACHT<br />

GO Starting on 14<br />

March, with 72 hours<br />

of music, drinking,<br />

dancing and lots of<br />

fun, the Fasnacht is<br />

the event of the year.<br />

More than 12,000<br />

people take part each<br />

year (fasnacht.ch).<br />

wonderfully original,<br />

but you won’t make<br />

yourself popular making<br />

off ers to the locals on<br />

the street and there<br />

are no touts selling<br />

knock-off s. If you<br />

really want to take a<br />

sample home, consider<br />

respectfully inquiring<br />

at one of the boutiques<br />

that make them,<br />

such as Larveatelier<br />

d’Frau Fasnacht (30<br />

Blotzheimerstrasse).<br />

SEE Baselworld<br />

(24–31 March) is the<br />

world’s leading watch<br />

and jewellery show,<br />

with more than 2,100<br />

exhibitors from 40<br />

countries, and 94,000<br />

visitors in 2010.<br />

Fascinating if you know<br />

your Patek Philippe from<br />

your Rolex, rather dull<br />

if you never expect to<br />

have an extra €10,000<br />

to blow on diamonds<br />

(baselworld.com).<br />

ESCAPE Mulhouse’s<br />

carnival may not be<br />

as famous as Basel’s,<br />

but it does happen<br />

the week before, so if<br />

you’re in town from<br />

11–13 March check<br />

out the parades<br />

and fun (carnavalmulhouse.com).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Certainly Switzerland’s<br />

most spectacular<br />

winter rite, Chienbaese<br />

in Liestal (13 March) is<br />

a fi re parade in which<br />

men, women and<br />

children carry giant<br />

fl aming brooms and<br />

fl aming wagons through<br />

this small city – the<br />

youngest participant is<br />

off ered a prize!<br />

Richard Harvell


116 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />

Belfast<br />

UK<br />

DIALLING CODE +44<br />

CURRENCY £<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Alicante,<br />

Amsterdam, Barcelona,<br />

Bristol, Edinburgh, Faro,<br />

Geneva, Glasgow, Ibiza,<br />

Krakow, Liverpool, London<br />

(LGW, LTN), Málaga,<br />

Malta, Newcastle, Majorca,<br />

Nice, Paris (CDG), Prague<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

BELFAST INT.<br />

TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs £25.<br />

Translink run an<br />

Airbus service to<br />

the centre. Tickets: £7<br />

single; £10 return.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

CITY AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs £8.<br />

Translink runs a<br />

service to the city<br />

centre, which leaves<br />

every 20 minutes.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 Boojum<br />

(73 Botanic Avenue,<br />

tel: 028 9031 5334)<br />

This informal Mexican<br />

restaurant is the<br />

perfect spot if you<br />

fancy a quiet bite at<br />

lunch or dinner. The<br />

food is extremely<br />

fresh and the service<br />

is super-fast. A branch<br />

has also just opened in<br />

the city centre.<br />

UP TO €30<br />

McCracken’s (4 Joy’s<br />

Entry, tel: 028 9032<br />

6711) Tucked away just<br />

off the High Street,<br />

this stylish bar is a<br />

great place for a hearty<br />

lunch. The menu is<br />

pretty varied and the<br />

staff also serve a mean<br />

pint of Guinness.<br />

UP TO €50 La Boca<br />

(6 Fountain Street,<br />

tel: 028 9032 3087)<br />

If you’re in the mood<br />

for a good steak, why<br />

not check out this<br />

Argentine-inspired<br />

restaurant. The food is<br />

reasonably priced and<br />

the restaurant has<br />

a terrifi c atmosphere.<br />

EXCLUSIVE CoCo<br />

(7–11 Linenhall Street,<br />

tel: 028 9031 1150)<br />

Since it opened just<br />

over a year or so ago,<br />

this trendy eatery has<br />

quickly established<br />

itself as one of the<br />

places to be seen.<br />

The décor is pretty<br />

funky and the<br />

restaurant is located<br />

close to many of the<br />

city’s nightlife hotspots.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Ryan’s<br />

Bar & Grill (116–118<br />

Lisburn Road, tel: 028<br />

9050 9850) This<br />

small but perfectly<br />

formed bar is an<br />

ideal spot for a quiet<br />

drink. It has a cosy<br />

atmosphere and never<br />

seems to get too<br />

crowded. There is<br />

also an excellent<br />

restaurant upstairs.<br />

LIVE MUSIC The<br />

Black Box (18–22 Hill<br />

Street, tel: 028 9024<br />

4400) Located in the<br />

heart of the arty part<br />

of town known as the<br />

Cathedral Quarter, this<br />

über-cool live music<br />

venue has played host<br />

to some of the best<br />

up-and-coming bands<br />

throughout the land.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

The Northern Whig<br />

(2–10 Bridge Street,<br />

tel: 028 9050 9888) If<br />

you’re just getting your<br />

bearings in the city,<br />

the Northern Whig is<br />

a great place to base<br />

yourself. It’s busy most<br />

nights of the week<br />

and attracts a pretty<br />

diverse crowd.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP These days,<br />

no visit to Belfast is<br />

complete without a trip<br />

to the mega shopping<br />

centre Victoria Square.<br />

As well as being home<br />

JURYS INN<br />

BELFAST<br />

★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />

Even more stylish<br />

after its recent<br />

refurbishment, this<br />

hotel is ideal for a<br />

trendy Belfast break.<br />

Breakfast included.<br />

From €82, book at<br />

hotels.easyJet.com.<br />

to a host of designer<br />

stores, there’s also<br />

a free viewing dome<br />

which gives you a<br />

great view of the city<br />

(1 Victoria Square,<br />

tel: 028 9032 2277).<br />

SEE Although St<br />

Patrick’s Day has<br />

traditionally been<br />

a low-key aff air in<br />

Belfast, recently the<br />

celebrations have<br />

become more high<br />

profi le. On 17 March<br />

this year there will be<br />

a parade from the<br />

City Hall to Custom<br />

House Square leaving<br />

at noon, followed by<br />

a free concert.<br />

GO Often described<br />

as Belfast’s Notting<br />

Hill, Ormeau Road is a<br />

great place to eat and<br />

drink. It’s dotted with<br />

fantastic inexpensive<br />

restaurants and great<br />

traditional bars. The<br />

Errigle Inn comes highly<br />

recommend for a pint<br />

and Soul Food is great<br />

for a spot of lunch.<br />

ESCAPE Less than<br />

an hour’s drive from<br />

Belfast, the beautiful<br />

seaside town of<br />

Portaferry is well worth<br />

a visit. Enjoy a pint in<br />

one of the many bars,<br />

then take the short<br />

ferry ride across to the<br />

equally charming town<br />

of Strangford.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Belfast’s Sirocco<br />

Works invented air<br />

conditioning, and<br />

the city’s Royal<br />

Victoria Hospital was<br />

the world’s fi rst air<br />

conditioned building.<br />

Chris Sherry/<br />

Ulster Tatler<br />

Berlin<br />

Germany<br />

DIALLING CODE +49<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Amsterdam,<br />

Athens, Barcelona,<br />

Basel-Mulhouse, Bristol,<br />

Brussels, Budapest,<br />

Cagliari, Copenhagen,<br />

Corfu, Crete (Heraklion),<br />

Dubrovnik, Geneva,<br />

Glasgow, Gothenburg,<br />

Ibiza, Lisbon, Liverpool,<br />

London (LGW, LTN), Lyon,<br />

Madrid, Majorca, Málaga,<br />

Milan (MXP), Naples,<br />

Nice, Olbia, Paris (ORY),<br />

Pisa, Rome (CIA), Split,<br />

Thessaloniki, Venice<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €35.<br />

Express route<br />

SXF1 runs from<br />

outside Terminal A to the<br />

Südkreuz. Tickets: €6.<br />

The S-Bahn train<br />

leaves from the<br />

airport. Tickets: €2.80.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 Ohlàlà<br />

Tartes-shop (18 Mainzer<br />

Strasse) On a street<br />

where squatters once<br />

battled police sits a<br />

pretty little shop run by<br />

a young French lady who<br />

bakes beautiful fresh<br />

quiches and sweet tarts<br />

every morning. Perfect<br />

for lunch after the nearby<br />

weekend Boxhagener<br />

Platz market.<br />

UP TO €30 Bar-<br />

Celona (2 Hannoversche<br />

Strasse, Mitte, tel: 030<br />

282 9153) This was the<br />

fi rst tapas bar to open<br />

in the eastern half of<br />

the city following the fall<br />

of the Berlin Wall, and<br />

it still pleases a wellheeled<br />

clientèle<br />

with its off erings of<br />

tempting Spanish<br />

delicacies and wines.<br />

UP TO €50 Gat<br />

Kitchen (81–82<br />

Mauerstrasse, tel: 030<br />

2067 1747) In<br />

a new Spanish designer<br />

hotel tucked away down<br />

a side street not far from<br />

Checkpoint Charlie,<br />

this retro yet futuristic<br />

little eatery actually<br />

serves some delicious<br />

Catalonian-style dinners<br />

conceived by trendy<br />

Spanish chefs Paula<br />

and Flip. The menu is a<br />

mix of seafood, which is<br />

normally hard to fi nd in<br />

Berlin, and quality meats<br />

such as entrecôte,<br />

served with good<br />

Spanish and German<br />

wines. Reservations<br />

are recommended.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Paris<br />

Moskau (141 Alt-Moabit,<br />

Tiergarten, tel: 030 394<br />

2081) Hidden in a<br />

small, half-timbered<br />

house in Tiergarten<br />

Park, near the massive<br />

new central station,<br />

this elegant yet<br />

unpretentious treasure<br />

boasts a winning<br />

combination of central<br />

European cooking<br />

and haute cuisine.


ONITSUKA TIGER<br />

STORE BERLIN<br />

If you love sneakers you shouldn't miss out on the<br />

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the remarkable and long history of the brand.<br />

STORE BERLIN – MITTE<br />

ALTE SCHÖNHAUSER STR. 20 – 22 . 10119 BERLIN<br />

OPEN: MO – FR 11.00 – 19.30 & SA 11.00 – 19.00<br />

ONITSUKATIGER.COM


118 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />

Berlin<br />

Germany<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Tajik<br />

Tearoom (1st fl oor, 1<br />

Am Festungsgraben, tel:<br />

030 204 1112) This is<br />

the perfect place to<br />

stop after a stroll<br />

through the historical<br />

centre of Berlin. Take off<br />

your shoes and recline<br />

on cushions as you<br />

sip on tea from a<br />

samovar (teapot) in<br />

this ornate café just off<br />

Unter den Linden.<br />

LIVE MUSIC Kaff ee<br />

Burger (60 Torstrasse,<br />

Mitte, tel: 030 2804<br />

6495) This charming<br />

venue – a pub whose<br />

look hasn’t changed<br />

much since the<br />

Communist era – hosts<br />

intimate concerts<br />

most nights of the<br />

week and turns into<br />

a pretty raucous dance<br />

club after midnight,<br />

especially at the<br />

monthly hedonistic<br />

Russendisko parties.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Kleine Reise (8<br />

Spreewaldplatz) This<br />

Irish-run club below<br />

a hostel in the middle<br />

of Kreuzberg aims to<br />

be a haven for eclectic<br />

electronic music-lovers<br />

looking for a relaxed<br />

and fun-loving houseparty<br />

atmosphere.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Berlin Story<br />

was the fi rst bookshop<br />

catering to tourists<br />

on Unter den Linden.<br />

A far cry from the<br />

many tacky souvenir<br />

shops on Berlin’s main<br />

boulevard, this store<br />

THE MOST FAMOUS<br />

IRISH PUB IN BERLIN<br />

stocks hundreds<br />

of Berlin-related<br />

books in English and<br />

other languages<br />

(26 Unter den Linden,<br />

berlinstory.de).<br />

SEE The global<br />

theatre sensation Blue<br />

Man Group has an<br />

ongoing Berlin show<br />

at Potsdamer Platz.<br />

No German-language<br />

skills are required<br />

to marvel at these<br />

mad, blue-skinned<br />

entertainers<br />

(tel: 018 054 444,<br />

bluemangroup.de).<br />

GO Schloss<br />

Charlottenburg in<br />

the far west of the<br />

city was built by the<br />

Hohenzollern family<br />

as a country residence<br />

in the 17th century. Go<br />

inside and marvel at<br />

the ornate, baroque<br />

interiors – including<br />

a porcelain cabinet<br />

housing thousands<br />

of exquisite objects.<br />

The large formal<br />

gardens and park<br />

surrounding the palace<br />

are perfect for a stroll.<br />

ESCAPE The Garden<br />

Kingdom of Dessau-<br />

Wörlitz is a huge area of<br />

landscaped parks and<br />

palaces built in the 18th<br />

century. The UNESCO<br />

World Heritage Site is<br />

about an hour-anda-half<br />

drive south<br />

west of Berlin<br />

(gartenreich.com).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Berlin is an incredibly<br />

green city, with around<br />

one-third of the city<br />

composed of forests,<br />

parks, gardens,<br />

rivers and lakes.<br />

exberliner.com<br />

Biarritz<br />

France<br />

DIALLING CODE +33<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London (LGW),<br />

Lyon, Paris (CDG)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €13.<br />

The STAB runs<br />

hourly from<br />

7.30am. Tickets: €1.20.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 La<br />

Cidrerie Hernani (29<br />

Avenue Maréchal Joff re,<br />

tel: 05 5923 0101) This is<br />

a typical cider restaurant,<br />

with big wooden tables.<br />

Meat, fi sh and vegetable<br />

dishes and as much<br />

cider as you can drink<br />

are the order of the day.<br />

EXCLUSIVE La Ferme<br />

de Bassilour (Rue<br />

Burruntz, tel: 05 5941<br />

9085) If you’re in a big<br />

group, this is a unique<br />

experience. Help the chef<br />

create your gourmet<br />

dishes in this 16thcentury<br />

farmhouse, then<br />

dine on the perfectly<br />

executed dishes.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Le Royalty<br />

(13 Place Clémenceau)<br />

Le Royalty has an ideal<br />

central location, with<br />

British décor, where you<br />

can watch the world<br />

go by over a coff ee or<br />

cocktail. Popular with<br />

locals and tourists alike.<br />

LATE & LIVELY Le<br />

Bar Jean (5 Rue des<br />

Halles, tel: 05 5924<br />

8038) A very busy bar<br />

frequented by a lively<br />

crowd of locals drinking<br />

sangria and cocktails<br />

until the early hours.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO For a relaxing spa<br />

experience, head to<br />

Spa Kémana. Owned by<br />

international rugby star<br />

Serge Betsen, there’s<br />

an extensive range of<br />

treatments available (3<br />

Carrefour d’Hélianthe).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Napoléon III and Empress<br />

Eugénie built their<br />

holiday palace in Biarritz<br />

in 1854. The original<br />

palace burnt down in<br />

1870, but was rebuilt as<br />

the Hôtel du Palais.<br />

Steve Bilsborough<br />

RUE DES<br />

HALLES<br />

SHOP This food<br />

market is a treat for all<br />

the senses. Buy some<br />

fresh cheese, fruit<br />

and cold meats for a<br />

picnic. Stop off at Chez<br />

Etienne – the popular<br />

market café for a midmorning<br />

coff ee.<br />

Bilbao<br />

Spain<br />

DIALLING CODE +34<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Ibiza, London<br />

(STN), Rome (FCO)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €28.<br />

Buses go to the<br />

city every 30<br />

minutes. Tickets: €1.25.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Restaurante Lasa (3<br />

Calle Diputación, tel: 94<br />

424 0103) A trendy little<br />

bar in the city centre,<br />

where a good selection<br />

of tasty tapas and a set<br />

lunchtime menu draw<br />

in the customers.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Restaurante Artagan<br />

(2 Plaza Moyua, tel: 94<br />

416 2200) Set within<br />

the Carlton Hotel,<br />

exquisite Artagan serves<br />

traditional Basque<br />

cuisine at its best. Wash<br />

down your meal with<br />

one of the great regional<br />

wines on off er.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Old Tavern<br />

(3 Rodríguez Arias,<br />

tel: 94 415 0744)<br />

A quaint and traditional<br />

English-style pub with<br />

a respectable selection<br />

of beers and a friendly,<br />

laidback atmosphere. A<br />

good place to start the<br />

night with the locals.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Café Boulevard (3<br />

Arenal, tel: 94 415 3128)<br />

Recently reopened<br />

after an extensive<br />

renovation, this stalwart<br />

is one of Bilbao’s most<br />

emblematic meeting<br />

points. Open until late<br />

at the weekends, there’s<br />

no surprise as to why<br />

it’s such a popular place<br />

with locals and visitors.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP El Mercado<br />

de la Ribera, next to<br />

the river, is reportedly<br />

the biggest indoor<br />

market in Europe. Fresh<br />

produce is delivered<br />

daily – from fruit and<br />

vegetables, meat and<br />

fi sh to cheeses, sweets<br />

and much more (every<br />

day except Sundays).<br />

SEE The carnival<br />

parades fl oat through<br />

various parts of the<br />

city centre from<br />

4–8 March. Check the<br />

posters for related<br />

events, such as<br />

concerts and street<br />

theatre, and join in the<br />

fun and dress up.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Athletic Club Bilbao<br />

is the only premier<br />

division football club<br />

in Europe with a noforeign-players<br />

policy<br />

– in fact, they don’t<br />

have any players<br />

from outside the<br />

Basque country!<br />

Katherine Bilsborough


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120 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />

Birmingham<br />

UK<br />

DIALLING CODE +44<br />

CURRENCY £<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Geneva, Grenoble<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs £20.<br />

Trains leave every<br />

10 minutes for<br />

the centre. Tickets: £3<br />

single; £6 return.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 The<br />

Oriental (The Mailbox,<br />

128–130 Wharfside<br />

Street, tel: 0121 633<br />

9988) Its canalside<br />

location, opulent décor,<br />

attentive service and<br />

a wide range of Thai,<br />

Malaysian and Chinese<br />

dishes make The Oriental<br />

a popular option. More<br />

unusual highlights<br />

include salt and chilli soft<br />

shell crab or squid.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Bluu Bar<br />

& Restaurant (Islington<br />

Gates, Summer Row,<br />

tel: 0121 236 9013)<br />

Serving everything<br />

from succulent rib-eye<br />

steaks to modern tapas<br />

dishes, Bluu caters to all<br />

appetites in stylish, retro<br />

surrounds. The Sunday<br />

lunches – brimming<br />

plates of roast meat and<br />

trimmings – are great.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Black<br />

Eagle Pub (16 Factory<br />

Road, tel: 0121 523<br />

4008) If you’re craving<br />

a quiet drink in a<br />

traditional pub, you can’t<br />

go wrong with the Black<br />

Eagle. This welcoming<br />

boozer dishes up hearty<br />

pub food and real ale.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Gatecrasher (182<br />

Upper Broad Street, tel:<br />

0121 633 1520) Don<br />

your coolest outfi t and<br />

dance the night away<br />

at this chic Miami-style<br />

venue, with four club<br />

rooms, nine bars and<br />

three permanent club<br />

nights (Monday, Friday<br />

and Saturday).<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Turn heads in<br />

a unique outfi t from<br />

independent menswear<br />

boutique Disorder, which<br />

has recently received<br />

a host of awards<br />

(14 Needless Alley,<br />

disorderboutique.com).<br />

SEE If you’re a fan<br />

of UK TV drama<br />

Coronation Street, the<br />

New Alexandra Theatre<br />

could be the place for<br />

you. The amibitious<br />

play Corrie! attempts<br />

to bring 50 years of the<br />

soap opera to the stage.<br />

From 21–26 March<br />

(Station Street).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Some of the stunning<br />

art deco carriages of<br />

the Venice Simplon<br />

Orient-Express were<br />

built in Birmingham.<br />

Jenny McKelvie<br />

4 JBN 2 WJG 7 PCL<br />

I0 CDP 4 HMR I WGG<br />

4 AFL 3 BNS 8 PGA<br />

2 EHJ II ATL 6 RBL<br />

9 CSG I NTJ 4 FSD<br />

Bologna<br />

Italy<br />

DIALLING CODE +39<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London (LGW)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €20.<br />

The Aerobus runs<br />

every 15 minutes.<br />

Tickets: €5<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 E’ Cucina<br />

Senzanome (42A Via<br />

Senzanome, tel: 051<br />

275 0069) Low-cost,<br />

high-quality food is<br />

served at this quirky<br />

restaurant. Just decide<br />

on a menu of meat, fi sh<br />

or veg, then leave the<br />

details to the chef.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Al<br />

Pappagallo (3 Piazza<br />

della Mercanzia, tel: 051<br />

232 807) In a choice<br />

position, right by the<br />

two towers, this historic<br />

restaurant off ers a<br />

mouthwatering selection<br />

of local and creative<br />

dishes and an extensive<br />

wine list. The house<br />

lasagne is delicious.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Chez Baker<br />

(7A Via Polese) Bologna’s<br />

most historic jazz<br />

location draws musicians<br />

and enthusiasts from<br />

all over the world to its<br />

intimate cellar. Good<br />

local food is served too.<br />

LATE & LIVELY La<br />

Scuderia (2 Piazza<br />

Verdi, tel: 051 656 9619)<br />

In the heart of Bologna’s<br />

lively university district,<br />

this place occupies 14thcentury<br />

stables. Open<br />

from 8am, it comes into<br />

its own after dark.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Chocolates and<br />

sweets that look as good<br />

as they taste fi ll the oldfashioned<br />

shelves lining<br />

the walls at Gilberto.<br />

Downstairs there’s a wellstocked<br />

wine and liqueur<br />

section (5 Via Drapperie).<br />

SEE Head to the<br />

exhibition centre for<br />

Cosmoprof – one of<br />

the world’s premier<br />

beauty events. You’ll fi nd<br />

demonstrations of the<br />

latest techniques and<br />

products. From 18–21<br />

March (cosmoprof.com).<br />

Sarah Lane<br />

SKY<br />

SCRAPERS<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Bologna’s skyline<br />

was once thick with<br />

towers. Of the 100<br />

or so built as status<br />

symbols during the<br />

Middle Ages, only<br />

around 20 still<br />

survive today.<br />

Bordeaux<br />

France<br />

DIALLING CODE +33<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

Bristol, Geneva, Liverpool,<br />

London (LGW, LTN), Lyon,<br />

Madrid, Milan (MXP)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €35.<br />

The Jetbus goes<br />

to Gare St Jean<br />

station. Tickets: €7. Line<br />

1 Bus goes to Place des<br />

Quinconces every 20<br />

minutes. Tickets: €1.40<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Comptoir<br />

Cuisine (2 Place de la<br />

Comédie, tel: 05 5656<br />

2233) This recently<br />

opened bistronomique<br />

places an emphasis on<br />

seasonal produce and<br />

traditional recipes. Sit<br />

at the counter to watch<br />

the chefs at work, or<br />

linger on the terrace<br />

overlooking the opera.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Chez<br />

Greg – Le Grand<br />

Theatre (29 Rue Esprit<br />

des Lois, tel: 05 5631<br />

3030) Enjoy the best<br />

food that south west<br />

France has to off er in<br />

modern surroundings.<br />

Specialities include<br />

oysters from the nearby<br />

Bassin d’Arcachon<br />

and duck grilled over<br />

the chimney fi re.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Chez<br />

Pompon (4 Cours du<br />

Verdun, tel: 05 5652<br />

5492) A restaurant by<br />

day, this well-known local<br />

institution becomes a<br />

bar in the evening, often<br />

with DJs on Thursdays<br />

and Fridays. A popular<br />

spot for an aperitif.<br />

LATE & LIVELY Wine<br />

Not (20 Rue des Piliers<br />

de Tutelle) This new<br />

bar has something for<br />

everyone. Drop by at the<br />

end of the day for a glass<br />

of wine or Champagne,<br />

have dinner in the bistro<br />

or stay late for dancing.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP With a wonderful<br />

selection of classic toys,<br />

clothes and accessories<br />

for children, you’re sure<br />

to fi nd a gift for the little<br />

ones back home at Le<br />

Petit Souk (26 Rue du<br />

Pas Saint Georges).<br />

SEE The Salon des<br />

Vins des Vignerons<br />

Indépendants runs from<br />

11–13 March, where<br />

you get the chance<br />

to sample and buy<br />

wines from 12 French<br />

wine regions (Parc des<br />

Expositions, vigneronindependant.com).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Dating from the 1400s,<br />

the spire of St Michel<br />

stretches almost 114m<br />

high, making it the<br />

tallest bell tower in<br />

south west France.<br />

Caroline Matthews<br />

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122 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />

Bournemouth<br />

UK<br />

DIALLING CODE +44<br />

CURRENCY £<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Geneva<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs £16.<br />

The A1 shuttle bus<br />

runs to the main<br />

square, hourly from<br />

7am–7pm. Tickets: £4.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Vesuvio<br />

(Seafront, Alum Chine,<br />

tel: 01202 759 100)<br />

Right on the beach, big<br />

and bustling Vesuvio<br />

packs in the punters for<br />

its traditional and fi lling<br />

Italian cuisine. The pizzas<br />

and Italian ice creams<br />

are a big hit with children.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Pebble<br />

Beach (Marine Drive,<br />

Barton-on-Sea, tel:<br />

01425 627 777) A few<br />

miles east of town,<br />

Pebble Beach is one of<br />

the most highly rated<br />

restaurants in the area,<br />

with dazzling sea views<br />

and sumptuous dishes<br />

such as seabass with<br />

tiger prawns in saff ron<br />

sauce and smoked duck<br />

breast. Don’t forget to<br />

leave time for a cocktail.<br />

Serravalle<br />

Golf Hotel<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Sixty<br />

Million Postcards<br />

(19–21 Exeter Road, tel:<br />

01202 292 697) This<br />

cool and casual bar has<br />

big comfy sofas, cosy<br />

booths, board games,<br />

decent bar food and<br />

occasional live music.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

The Old Firestation (36<br />

Holdenhurst Road, tel:<br />

01202 963 889) Set in<br />

a Grade II-listed former<br />

fi re station, this is a top<br />

student club, which also<br />

hosts a diverse array<br />

of DJ nights and live<br />

music. Past guests have<br />

included Scouting for<br />

Girls and Dizzee Rascal.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Check out the<br />

amazing, largely locally<br />

produced chocolates<br />

and confectionary<br />

at Priorys, a tiny<br />

traditional chocolate<br />

shop (1A Castle<br />

Street, Christchurch).<br />

SEE Chris Wood<br />

performs as part of<br />

the Bournemouth<br />

Folk Festival at the<br />

International Centre on<br />

12 March. Other diverse<br />

BIC highlights in March<br />

include The Circus<br />

of Horrors (6th), The<br />

Bootleg Beatles (10th),<br />

McFly (23rd) and the<br />

Moscow Ballet (28th)<br />

(tel: 01202 456 400).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

One of Scotland’s fi nest<br />

writers, Robert Louis<br />

Stevenson, actually<br />

wrote most of his best<br />

works when he lived<br />

in Bournemouth from<br />

1884 to 1887.<br />

Matthew Hancock<br />

Brest<br />

France<br />

DIALLING CODE +33<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Lyon, Paris (CDG)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €20.<br />

Buses stop at<br />

Saint Luc and the<br />

city centre. Tickets: €5.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Gout<br />

d’Soleil (20 Rue Louis<br />

Blanc, tel: 02 9805<br />

3692) This is a great little<br />

Portuguese place serving<br />

dishes from around the<br />

Mediterranean as well<br />

as all your Portuguese<br />

favourites. Try the<br />

Brazilian-style cassoulet<br />

or the selection of tapas.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

La Fleur du Sel (15<br />

bis Rue de Lyon, tel: 02<br />

9844 3865) The menu<br />

changes often at this<br />

sophisticated venue with<br />

classic décor and thick<br />

white tablecloths. Try<br />

the partridge in pastry,<br />

the veal with wild<br />

asparagus or the fi sh.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY La Maison<br />

Blanche (2840 Route<br />

Sainte-Anne-du-Portzic,<br />

tel: 02 9845 8210)<br />

This is a great place<br />

for a drink after a<br />

bracing walk along the<br />

promenade and, if you<br />

fancy it, a snack and a<br />

relaxed game of darts or<br />

petanque (bowls).<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Vinomania<br />

is a wine shop with a<br />

diff erence – open until<br />

11pm, it off ers free<br />

tasting and has boxes<br />

of the local vineyards’<br />

fi nest (34 Quai Malbert).<br />

SEE Anticodes is a<br />

mixed performance<br />

arts festival that takes<br />

place simultaneously in<br />

Lyon, Paris and Brest.<br />

Performances range<br />

from cult to culture. From<br />

3 March (anticodes.fr).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Brest was fought over<br />

for many years by the<br />

British and the French,<br />

but has now been under<br />

French rule for more<br />

than four centuries.<br />

Samantha David<br />

LATE &<br />

LIVELY<br />

Le Tour du Monde<br />

(Port de Plaisance du<br />

Moulin-Blanc) Friday<br />

and Saturday nights<br />

see the crowd singing<br />

and dancing on the<br />

bar, and if there’s<br />

a big match on, this<br />

lot will be cheering.<br />

Brindisi<br />

Italy<br />

DIALLING CODE +39<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Geneva, Milan<br />

(MXP), Paris (ORY)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €20.<br />

Local STP buses<br />

leave every 30<br />

minutes. Tickets: €0.80.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Notti<br />

Bianche (47 Via Arc<br />

Zaccaria, tel: 0831 339<br />

469) Extremely good<br />

value can be found at<br />

this simple yet elegant<br />

little restaurant. It prides<br />

itself on using totally<br />

Neapolitan ingredients<br />

and claims to serve the<br />

best pizzas in town.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

La Poeta Contadino<br />

(21 Via Indipendenza,<br />

Alberobello, tel: 080 432<br />

1917) Tucked between<br />

stone arches and old<br />

farm walls, this ancientlooking<br />

restaurant oozes<br />

character. The cavatelli<br />

(pasta) and gnocchi are<br />

excellent, as are any of<br />

the seafood dishes. It’s<br />

simple, wholesome<br />

and full of locals.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Bar<br />

Garden (5 Via Martiri<br />

di Cefalonia) The chefs<br />

here make exceptional<br />

stuzzichini (appetisers)<br />

and the barman really<br />

knows how to mix his<br />

cocktails. A pleasant<br />

afternoon bar that<br />

picks up later on.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Stone’s Café (Via<br />

Tevere, Torre Santa<br />

Sabina) This is a good<br />

bar to head to with its<br />

leather sofas, roaring<br />

fi res, good food and<br />

healthy selection of ontap<br />

beverages. DJs play<br />

at the weekends.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Shop on<br />

l’Appia dei Vini on a<br />

drive through several<br />

vineyard communes<br />

fi nishing in Brindisi.<br />

Visit Masseria Asciano,<br />

Coopir De Laurentis<br />

along with many more.<br />

Buy a bottle at each<br />

stop and you’ll be set for<br />

the rest of the holiday.<br />

SEE Head to Murgia<br />

Materana for a peek<br />

into the ancient Puglian<br />

past. Set in stunning<br />

countryside, here you’ll<br />

fi nd Neolithic history<br />

the likes of which you<br />

don’t get to see so close<br />

anywhere else.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The Madonna di<br />

Pozzo Faceto is the<br />

protectress of Fasano.<br />

In June 1678, the people<br />

of Fasano defeated<br />

the Turks in battle.<br />

According to legend, the<br />

Madonna appeared and<br />

inspired victory.<br />

Max Keep


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124 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />

Bristol<br />

UK<br />

DIALLING CODE +44<br />

CURRENCY £<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Alicante,<br />

Amsterdam, Barcelona,<br />

Belfast (BFS), Berlin,<br />

Bodrum, Bordeaux,<br />

Corfu, Crete<br />

(Heraklion), Cyprus<br />

(Paphos), Dalaman,<br />

Edinburgh, Faro,<br />

Fuerteventura, Geneva,<br />

Glasgow, Grenoble,<br />

Ibiza, Innsbruck,<br />

Inverness, Krakow, La<br />

Rochelle, Lisbon, Lyon,<br />

Madeira, Madrid,<br />

Majorca, Málaga,<br />

Marseille, Menorca,<br />

Murcia, Newcastle,<br />

Nice, Olbia, Paris (CDG),<br />

Pisa, Prague, Rome<br />

(CIA), Salzburg, Split,<br />

Tenerife, Toulouse<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs £25.<br />

The Bristol<br />

International Flyer<br />

goes to Temple Meads<br />

train station, Bristol Bus<br />

Station and Clifton, with<br />

stops around the city.<br />

Tickets: £6–£7 single.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 The<br />

Village Pottery (70<br />

Princess Victoria Street,<br />

tel: 0117 973 4343) Run<br />

by potter Jen Hamilton,<br />

this is a quirky mix of<br />

a studio, gallery and<br />

coff ee bar. Pop in for<br />

a cup of Fairtrade tea<br />

or coff ee and a slice of<br />

cake, browse the items<br />

on display after you’ve<br />

tasted the tasty nibbles,<br />

then splash out on one of<br />

Jen’s fantastic creations.<br />

UP TO €30 Las<br />

Iguanas (113 Whiteladies<br />

Road, tel: 0117 973<br />

0730) This is one of a<br />

chain of Latin-inspired<br />

restaurants and bars<br />

found up and down the<br />

UK, with mouthwatering<br />

food, the freshest<br />

ingredients and plenty of<br />

fl air from the staff . The<br />

signature dish, Xinxim<br />

Brazilian lime chicken,<br />

is apparently a favourite<br />

of football legend Pele.<br />

UP TO €50 Bordeaux<br />

Quay (V-Shed, Canons<br />

Way, tel: 0117 943 1200)<br />

A harbourside venue<br />

housed in an elegant,<br />

converted warehouse on<br />

the glistening waterfront,<br />

Bordeaux Quay off ers<br />

the very best in seasonal,<br />

regionally sourced food<br />

and drink, for those<br />

wishing to experience<br />

the tastes of England’s<br />

green south west.<br />

EXCLUSIVE The<br />

Orangery at Tortworth<br />

Court (Wottonunder-Edge,<br />

South<br />

Gloucestershire, tel:<br />

01454 263 000) The<br />

Orangery is committed<br />

to serving locally<br />

sourced produce, with<br />

much of it coming from<br />

the Tortworth Estate,<br />

right on the doorstep<br />

of this venue. Seasonal<br />

menus refl ect the best of<br />

modern British cuisine<br />

and are complemented<br />

by an accessible wine list.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY The Grain<br />

Barge (Mardyke Wharf,<br />

Hotwells Road, tel: 0117<br />

929 9347) This historic<br />

converted barge is<br />

a great place for a<br />

relaxed drink. Serving<br />

award-winning real ales,<br />

it’s also famed for its<br />

regular live music<br />

every Friday in the<br />

downstairs Hold Bar.<br />

LIVE MUSIC The Old<br />

Duke (45 King Street,<br />

tel: 0117 927 7137) A<br />

traditional Bristol pub<br />

that boasts friendly<br />

service and locally<br />

sourced ales. Catch<br />

world-class blues and<br />

jazz acts every night<br />

of the week, as well as<br />

Sunday lunchtimes.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Jongleurs Comedy<br />

Club (28 Baldwin Street,<br />

tel: 0870 011 1960)<br />

Shows run every Friday<br />

and Saturday followed<br />

TYNTESFIELD<br />

ESTATE<br />

ESCAPE The house,<br />

chapel, gardens and<br />

woodland make for<br />

an inspiring day of<br />

discovery. This year the<br />

new Home Farm visitor<br />

centre is open. The day<br />

out is just 20 minutes<br />

from Bristol.<br />

by an after-show disco<br />

until 3am. The venue<br />

off ers extensive dining<br />

options and the ground<br />

fl oor, Bar Eton, is the<br />

perfect place to meet for<br />

a pre-show drink.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Established<br />

in 1743, St Nicholas<br />

Market is the oldest and<br />

best-loved market in<br />

Bristol. The vibrant and<br />

buzzing marketplace<br />

can be found in the<br />

heart of the old city.<br />

Many visitors choose to<br />

pick up a few items here<br />

then head to the local<br />

parks for an alfresco<br />

snack (Corn Street).<br />

SEE All About Us –<br />

with over 50 new or<br />

signifi cantly enhanced<br />

exhibits – is an unusual<br />

celebration of all things<br />

human that helps people<br />

discover how amazing<br />

their brains and bodies<br />

are. Starts 10 March<br />

(At Bristol, Anchor Road,<br />

tel: 0845 345 1235).<br />

GO Southville is a<br />

popular spot to enjoy<br />

a relaxing drink and<br />

some great food. North<br />

Street is the centre of<br />

most of the activity, with<br />

many bars, cafés and<br />

restaurants buzzing<br />

with activity. The iconic<br />

Tobacco Factory can<br />

also be found in the area<br />

– a distinct red brick<br />

building, which is now a<br />

performance art space.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Comedian Justin Lee<br />

Collins is a resident of<br />

Bristol and can often be<br />

seen out and about.<br />

Chris Savage/<br />

Destination Bristol<br />

Brussels<br />

Belgium<br />

DIALLING CODE +32<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Berlin, Geneva,<br />

Liverpool, Lyon, Milan<br />

(MXP), Nice<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €35.<br />

Every 20 minutes,<br />

routes 12 and 21<br />

go to Schuman metro<br />

station. Tickets: €3<br />

(€5 on the bus).<br />

Trains depart<br />

every 15 minutes.<br />

Tickets: €5 single;<br />

€10 return.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 Le Pain<br />

Quotidien (16 Rue<br />

Antoine Dansaert, tel:<br />

02 502 2361) This is<br />

always a great place<br />

for brunch. You can<br />

sit around a<br />

communal table and<br />

order an assortment<br />

of pastries and<br />

dishes. This particular<br />

branch is the fi rst one<br />

that Alain Coumont<br />

opened in 1990. His<br />

objective was to open<br />

a place that makes<br />

organic bread in<br />

a traditional way.<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Darjeeling (160 Rue<br />

Stevin, tel: 02 230 1361)<br />

This restaurant off ers<br />

a wide variety of Indian<br />

dishes and is located a<br />

stone’s throw from the<br />

European quarter.<br />

UP TO €50 La<br />

Crèche des Artistes<br />

(21 Rue de la Crèche,<br />

tel: 02 511 2256) The<br />

food served at this<br />

Italian restaurant is<br />

fantastic throughout,<br />

but the black truffl e<br />

risotto deserves<br />

a special mention.<br />

The redbrick walls and<br />

extensive wine selection<br />

on display in wooden<br />

casks also give this<br />

place a pleasant rustic<br />

and warm atmosphere.<br />

EXCLUSIVE La<br />

Paix (49 Rue Ropsy-<br />

Chaudron, tel: 02<br />

523 0958) It’s never<br />

easy to get a table at<br />

chef David Martin’s<br />

Michelin-starred<br />

brasserie. It’s only<br />

open from Monday<br />

to Friday for lunch,<br />

and Friday evenings<br />

for dinner, and the<br />

length of the waiting<br />

list for reservations<br />

can be discouraging.<br />

But don’t give up<br />

hope! Persevere, try<br />

the Simmental beef,<br />

however, and you’ll<br />

understand why it’s<br />

worth the eff ort.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Monk<br />

(42 Rue St-Catherine,<br />

tel: 02 503 0880)<br />

With its defi nite pub<br />

feel, this Belgian<br />

brasserie is a great<br />

spot to begin the<br />

night and mingle with<br />

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the easy-going and<br />

diverse crowd. There<br />

are both non-smoking<br />

and smoking areas.<br />

LIVE MUSIC<br />

Madame Moustache<br />

(5–7 Quai au Bois à<br />

Brûler, tel: 04 8553<br />

4494) Tremendously<br />

popular since it<br />

opened in 2010, this<br />

venue manages to<br />

combine a bohemian<br />

atmosphere with<br />

great live music. Once<br />

the bands are done,<br />

DJs take over with<br />

an eclectic mix to<br />

make sure the party<br />

continues late into<br />

the night.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

The Flat (12 Rue de<br />

la Reinette, tel: 04<br />

9590 3203) As the<br />

name of this bar<br />

indicates, the top<br />

fl oor is decorated to<br />

look just like a fl at.<br />

You can enjoy a<br />

cocktail while relaxing<br />

on the bed or even<br />

sit in the bath. The<br />

music pumps late<br />

into the night and<br />

drink prices are<br />

subject to stock<br />

exchange variations.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP With glazed<br />

arcaded storefronts<br />

and light pouring in<br />

through the glass roof,<br />

the Galeries Royales<br />

St-Hubert is defi nitely<br />

worth a stroll even if<br />

you’re not shopping.<br />

If you are, however,<br />

this 19th-century<br />

arcade has plenty of<br />

luxurious shops, cafés<br />

and restaurants.<br />

SEE Check out the<br />

European quarter<br />

<br />

<br />

near Schuman<br />

roundabout –<br />

the European<br />

Commission, Council<br />

and Parliament are<br />

all within a few<br />

minutes’ walk of each<br />

another. While you’re<br />

in the area, take<br />

a trip to the Royal<br />

Belgian Institute of<br />

Natural Sciences,<br />

which has a great<br />

exhibition called<br />

BiodiverCity on<br />

throughout March<br />

(29 Rue Vautier,<br />

naturalsciences.be).<br />

GO Meander<br />

in the Parc du<br />

Cinquantenaire<br />

and take a look at<br />

the triumphal arch<br />

erected in 1905.<br />

Around the park<br />

there are various<br />

museums and the<br />

city’s largest mosque.<br />

ESCAPE Head<br />

to Ghent and walk<br />

around its car-free<br />

area – the largest in<br />

Belgium – and you’ll<br />

soon fi nd out why it’s<br />

often said to be as<br />

beautiful as Bruges.<br />

Check out St Bavo<br />

cathedral and the<br />

church of St Nicholas.<br />

Once you’re done,<br />

hop on a tour boat<br />

and ask the guide<br />

about the city’s<br />

secrets. One of the<br />

best things about<br />

Ghent is that it’s<br />

barely 35 minutes<br />

by train from Brussels.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Brussels truly is an<br />

international city –<br />

27% of the population<br />

are foreigners.<br />

Gaspard Sebag<br />

Bucharest<br />

Romania<br />

DIALLING CODE +40<br />

CURRENCY Leu (RON)<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Madrid,<br />

Milan (MXP)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com. A<br />

local taxi costs RON100.<br />

Bus 783 leaves<br />

every 30 minutes.<br />

Tickets: RON8.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Taverna<br />

La Zavat (16 Strada<br />

Popa Nan, tel: 021 252<br />

2956) Currently the<br />

city’s most talked about<br />

seafood restaurant, La<br />

Zavat is packed most<br />

evenings with small<br />

groups of friends sharing<br />

big plates of fi sh and<br />

seafood. There are also<br />

great salads and a fi ne<br />

selection of local wine.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Osho<br />

(19–21 Bulevardul<br />

Primaverii, tel: 021 568<br />

3031) At this butcher’s<br />

shop you can pick your<br />

chops or steak (all the<br />

meat is sourced in<br />

Romania), then send<br />

them to be cooked just<br />

how you like. Set in<br />

Bucharest’s swankiest<br />

neighbourhood, prices<br />

are high but value for<br />

money is guaranteed.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Divan (46–<br />

48 Strada Franceza, tel:<br />

021 312 3034) Possibly<br />

the hippest café in the<br />

Old Town, this place<br />

is usually packed with<br />

young locals drinking<br />

coff ee and cocktails and<br />

smoking hookah pipes<br />

from the comfort of<br />

some funky armchairs.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Kulturhaus (4 Strada<br />

Sf Vineri, tel: 021 313<br />

5592) This two-level<br />

arthouse club attracts<br />

a young, friendly crowd<br />

of party people. Expect<br />

a diff erent event each<br />

night of the week,<br />

from live rock and<br />

folk bands to DJs<br />

and themed parties.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Everything sold<br />

at Idelier – a one-stop<br />

shop for clothes, shoes,<br />

accessories and quirky<br />

bits and pieces – is<br />

made and designed in<br />

Romania (1 Bulevardul<br />

Lascar Cartagiu).<br />

SEE Casa Melik is<br />

the oldest house in<br />

Bucharest. Built between<br />

1750 and 1760, today<br />

it’s home to a museum<br />

dedicated to the<br />

Romanian early cubist<br />

artist Theodor Pallady<br />

(22 Strada Spatarului).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Romania’s witches now<br />

have to pay tax following<br />

the introduction of a<br />

labour law that defi nes<br />

fortune-telling and<br />

astrology as professions.<br />

Craig Turp<br />

DESTINATION GUIDES | 125<br />

Budapest<br />

Hungary<br />

DIALLING CODE +36<br />

CURRENCY Forint (HUF)<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Berlin, Dortmund,<br />

Geneva, London (LGW,<br />

LTN), Paris (ORY)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs<br />

HUF3,500–HUF5,400.<br />

Trains leave for<br />

Western station.<br />

Tickets: HUF455.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 APA Cuka<br />

(5 Horánszky Utca) APA<br />

Cuka is an arty space in<br />

a restored pipe factory<br />

that combines artists’<br />

studios, a live music bar<br />

ART’OTEL<br />

BUDAPEST<br />

★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />

True to its name, the<br />

Art’Otel adds a real<br />

arty fl avour to your<br />

trip, and has a superb<br />

location on the banks<br />

of the Danube.<br />

From €89, book at<br />

hotels.easyJet.com.<br />

and a fun restaurant with<br />

a Hungarian menu.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Babel Delikát Étterem<br />

(1 Szarka Utca, tel:<br />

338 2143) While many<br />

restaurants near here<br />

are tourist traps, Babel<br />

is an exception. The<br />

food is contemporary,<br />

and the kitchen really<br />

shines with various<br />

tasting menus on off er.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Muvész<br />

Kávéház (29 Andrássy<br />

Utca) This coff eehouse<br />

is one of Budapest’s<br />

classic cafés, beloved<br />

among artists who come<br />

for the espresso.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Garzon Café (24<br />

Wesselényi Utca) A<br />

garzon refers to a type<br />

of tatty apartment. This<br />

bar, however, oozes<br />

shabby-chic style, and<br />

is a fun place to spend<br />

the evening.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP A Budapestbased<br />

Russian shoe<br />

designer sells her<br />

footwear creations at<br />

Siberia. She makes<br />

custom designs too<br />

(19 Wesselényi Utca).<br />

GO Check out where<br />

ruinpubs (Budapest’s<br />

retro pubs) fi rst started,<br />

at Fogas Ház at 51<br />

Akácfa Utca and Szimpla<br />

Kert at 14 Kazinczy Utca<br />

in the VI district.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Unicum, the Hungarian<br />

herbal liqueur, is made<br />

from a top-secret recipe<br />

that contains more than<br />

40 diff erent herbs.<br />

Carolyn Bánfalvi


126 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />

Cagliari<br />

Italy<br />

DIALLING CODE +39<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

Berlin, Geneva, London<br />

(STN), Milan (MXP)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJetcom.<br />

A local taxi costs €20.<br />

ARST buses to<br />

the city centre<br />

leave every 30 minutes.<br />

Tickets: €2.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Lo Spiedo<br />

Sardo (47 Via Palomba,<br />

tel: 070 492 202) Try<br />

the delicious Sardinian<br />

specialities served<br />

here, such as porchetto<br />

arrosto (sucking pig)<br />

and a great choice<br />

of excellent wines.<br />

Decorated with rustic<br />

handcrafts, it also boasts<br />

very friendly staff .<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Ristorante Italia (30<br />

Via Sardegna, tel: 070<br />

657 987) Situated in<br />

the centre of town<br />

and founded in 1921,<br />

Ristorante Italia is<br />

simply unmissable, with<br />

its excellent ambience,<br />

fantastic service and<br />

even better food. The<br />

carpaccio di tonno<br />

(wafer-thin tuna slices)<br />

is unbeatable.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY La Sella<br />

del Diavolo (1 Fermata<br />

Poetto Beach, tel: 070<br />

373 686) This small café<br />

at one end of Poetto<br />

Beach is encased in<br />

glass walls so you can<br />

enjoy panoramic views,<br />

even on a rainy day.<br />

LATE & LIVELY K Lab<br />

(13 Via Cesare Battisti) K<br />

Lab is open throughout<br />

the whole winter season<br />

and is defi nitely one of<br />

Cagliari’s hottest places<br />

to experience Italian<br />

club culture. Dance the<br />

night away, with live<br />

DJs on Thursday and<br />

Saturday nights.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP At Serdiana, 20<br />

minutes from Cagliari, is<br />

Cantina di Argiolas, one<br />

of Italy’s top wineries<br />

and world-famous for its<br />

exquisite Turriga wine.<br />

Take away a few bottles<br />

from the lovely shop<br />

(28–30 Via Roma, tel:<br />

070 740 606).<br />

SEE The Sartiglia in the<br />

town of Oristano on 6–8<br />

March is a highlight not<br />

to be missed. Admire the<br />

processions of groups<br />

dressed in ancient<br />

costumes and the<br />

breathtaking masked<br />

horse riders that race<br />

down the narrow streets.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Sardinia is known for an<br />

exceptionally high life<br />

expectancy. In fact, fi ve<br />

of the world’s 40 oldest<br />

people live in Sardinia.<br />

Dario Henke<br />

Casablanca<br />

Morocco<br />

DIALLING CODE +212<br />

CURRENCY MAD<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Lyon, Madrid, Milan<br />

(MXP), Paris (CDG)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com. A<br />

local taxi costs MAD250.<br />

Trains depart to<br />

Casa Voyageur.<br />

Tickets: MAD40–60.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Trica<br />

(5 Rue Moutanabbi,<br />

Guathier, tel: 0522 220<br />

706) A casual, everpopular<br />

Italian restaurant<br />

with décor inspired<br />

by New York’s trendy<br />

Tribeca area. Great beef<br />

carpaccio is served<br />

alongside plateloads of<br />

homemade pasta.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Basmane<br />

(Angle Boulevard de<br />

l’Ocean Atlantique et<br />

de la Cornice Ain Diab,<br />

tel: 0522 797 532)<br />

Experience sumptuous<br />

Moroccan cuisine and<br />

beautiful décor while<br />

being entertained<br />

by belly dancers. Go<br />

traditional with the<br />

lamb tagine or pigeon<br />

pastilla, which is<br />

defi nitely worth a try.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Lenôtre<br />

(86 Boulevard Moulay<br />

Rachid) Sample<br />

the mouthwatering<br />

delicacies of this classy<br />

café, while sipping on<br />

excellent coff ee or tea.<br />

LATE & LIVELY Le<br />

Carré Rouge (Hotel<br />

Dawliz, Boulevard de<br />

La Corniche, tel: 0522<br />

392 510) The local<br />

crowd here is young<br />

and glamorous. The<br />

roomy dancefl oor and<br />

international DJs keep<br />

clubbers coming back.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO Parc Murdoch is one<br />

of the only maintained<br />

parks in Casablanca.<br />

Frequented year round<br />

by young and old alike,<br />

this park is a breath of<br />

fresh air in a noisy city.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

There are two diff erent<br />

types of taxi in Morocco:<br />

Petit and Grand. In<br />

Casablanca alone there<br />

are 8,000 petit taxis.<br />

Cara Warkentin<br />

HABBOUS<br />

MARKET<br />

SHOP Ask anyone<br />

in Habbous to direct<br />

you to the olive<br />

market. Through a<br />

medieval archway,<br />

you’ll fi nd deep<br />

bowls piled high with<br />

dozens of diff erent<br />

types of olives.<br />

Catania<br />

Italy<br />

DIALLING CODE +39<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Milan (MXP),<br />

Paris (CDG)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €20.<br />

Route 457 leaves<br />

every 20 minutes<br />

stopping in the centre.<br />

Tickets: €1.30 (onboard).<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Strapizzati (20 Via<br />

Scammacca, tel: 095<br />

436 270) This tiny<br />

family-run pizzeria is<br />

located at the city gate<br />

and off ers huge tasty<br />

pizzas and the most<br />

traditional Sicilian dish<br />

pani cunzatu – warm<br />

bread, tomatoes, olive<br />

oil and oregano.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Ristorante Primo<br />

Piano (8 Via Antonio De<br />

Curtis, tel: 095 531 028)<br />

In an elegant setting in<br />

the historic centre of<br />

Catania, this exclusive<br />

restaurant off ers you the<br />

opportunity to enjoy<br />

a wide range of delicious<br />

dishes inspired by local<br />

and international cuisine.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Café<br />

Sauvage (1 Corso Italia,<br />

tel: 095 377 325) This<br />

is the most luxurious<br />

café in the city. It<br />

opened more than<br />

30 years ago, and<br />

quickly became a<br />

city institution. Try<br />

the house speciality,<br />

the latte di mandarla<br />

(almond milk).<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Ceres Pub (19 Via San<br />

Giuseppe al Duomo,<br />

tel: 095 715 2294)<br />

Located in the city<br />

centre, by the university,<br />

this pub is frequented<br />

mostly by students.<br />

The atmosphere is<br />

cheerful and typically<br />

Sicilian, and foreign<br />

beers are available.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Foto T2<br />

Tramontana is the best<br />

photographic studioshop<br />

in the city. Here<br />

you can buy cameras,<br />

lenses and fi lm (15 Via<br />

Sant’Angelo Custode,<br />

tel: 095 347 951).<br />

GO Stadio Angelo<br />

Massimino is the city’s<br />

football stadium. You<br />

can’t beat the amazing<br />

atmosphere of a Catania<br />

Serie A match (Piazza<br />

Vincenzo Spedini,<br />

tel: 095 742 5707).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Saverio Di Giacomo<br />

is a 31-year-old<br />

Sicilian man living in<br />

northern Italy. Last<br />

November, he walked<br />

for more than<br />

1,600km to get to<br />

Sicily to visit the grave<br />

of his grandfather.<br />

Alessandro Di Maio


Cologne<br />

Germany<br />

DIALLING CODE +49<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Edinburgh,<br />

London (LGW)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

The fare to Cologne is<br />

€30 and €40 to Bonn.<br />

Trains leave for<br />

Cologne every 20<br />

minutes. Tickets: €3.40.<br />

The bus for Bonn,<br />

leaves every hour.<br />

Tickets: €6.60.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Jonny Turista (74<br />

Mauritiussteinweg, tel:<br />

0221 240 7055) Grazing<br />

on tapas at Jonny Turista<br />

won’t break the bank –<br />

and there are German<br />

beers and Spanish wines<br />

to help wash it all down.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Ristorante Alfredo<br />

(3 Tunisstrasse, tel:<br />

0221 257 7380) The<br />

Michelin-starred cuisine<br />

at Alfredo is served<br />

with a side order of<br />

Italian arias. Chef<br />

(and trained baritone)<br />

Roberto Carturan off ers<br />

a six-course menu to<br />

accompany the opera.<br />

Exclusive Ladies Fashions<br />

SIZES 6 to 34<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Beim<br />

Kölsche Jung (71<br />

Weyerstrasse) Keenly<br />

priced Gaff el or<br />

Reissdorf Kölsch, hearty<br />

regional cooking and<br />

live music make for<br />

a warm, traditional<br />

Rhineland welcome.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Artheater (127<br />

Ehrenfeldgürtel, tel:<br />

0221 550 3344) On<br />

Friday and Saturday<br />

nights, Ehrenfeld’s<br />

Artheater mutates<br />

from hip theatre space<br />

into one of Cologne’s<br />

leading temples of<br />

electronic dance music.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Inspired by the<br />

needs of Swiss cyclists,<br />

Freitag’s bags for men<br />

and women are stylish,<br />

distinctive and practical.<br />

Hip street Friesenwall<br />

is the place to get them<br />

(24 Friesenwall, tel: 0221<br />

2726 0880, freitag.ch).<br />

SEE Cologne’s carnival<br />

reaches its crescendo<br />

with masks, balls, live<br />

music and merriment.<br />

The highlight is<br />

the Rosenmontag<br />

procession on 7 March,<br />

when sweets and<br />

strüsjer (bouquets) are<br />

thrown from the fl oats<br />

(koelnerkarneval1.de).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Men should leave their<br />

neckwear at home on 3<br />

March – Weiberfastnacht<br />

– since on this day of<br />

the carnival the women<br />

call the shots and it’s<br />

traditional for them to<br />

snip off the tie of any<br />

man caught wearing one.<br />

Neville Walker<br />

Copenhagen<br />

Denmark<br />

DIALLING CODE +45<br />

CURRENCY Krone (DKK)<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

Berlin, Geneva, London<br />

(LGW, STN), Manchester,<br />

Milan (MXP)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com. A<br />

local taxi costs DKK180.<br />

Underground<br />

trains go to<br />

Nørreport station.<br />

Tickets: DKK31.50.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15<br />

Agnes Cupcakes (2<br />

Sværtegade, tel: 3120<br />

6000) Copenhagen’s<br />

fi rst cupcake bakery<br />

off ers a delicious<br />

alternative to the<br />

traditional Danish<br />

pastry, as well as a<br />

selection of organic<br />

hot and cold drinks.<br />

UP TO €30 Frk<br />

Barners Kælder (8A<br />

Helgolandsgade, tel:<br />

3333 0533) Think good,<br />

old-fashioned Danish<br />

cooking piled on plates<br />

and served at tables with<br />

kitsch red chequered<br />

table cloths. The menu<br />

includes classics such<br />

as herring, calf’s liver,<br />

butter-fried plaice and<br />

apple cake.<br />

UP TO €50 Scarpetta<br />

(7 Rantzausgade, tel:<br />

3535 0808) Perfect<br />

for the indecisive, this<br />

Italian restaurant off ers<br />

a fi ve-course set meal,<br />

or you can pick from the<br />

extensive menu of small<br />

tapas-sized dishes. The<br />

painted white furniture,<br />

tiled fl oors and olive<br />

trees make for a light<br />

and airy atmosphere.<br />

Booking is essential as<br />

it’s always packed.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Restaurant Godt (38<br />

Gothersgade, tel: 3315<br />

2122) Chef Colin Rice<br />

and his wife Marie<br />

Anne run this intimate<br />

restaurant in the centre<br />

of town. A maximum of<br />

20 guests are spread<br />

over the two simply<br />

decorated fl oors,<br />

ensuring wonderfully<br />

attentive service and<br />

making this the perfect<br />

choice for a romantic<br />

date. The four- or<br />

fi ve-course lunch and<br />

dinner menus comprise<br />

European dishes<br />

concocted from local<br />

seasonal ingredients.<br />

An accompanying wine<br />

menu is also available.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Hviids<br />

Vinstue (19 Kongens<br />

Nytorv, tel: 3315 1064)<br />

The city’s oldest pub is<br />

the perfect bolthole for<br />

a cold March day, with<br />

its low ceilings, dark<br />

wooden interiors and 27<br />

varieties of Danish beer.<br />

LIVE MUSIC<br />

The Rock (45–47<br />

Skindergade, tel: 3391<br />

3913) As the name<br />

DESTINATION GUIDES | 127<br />

suggests, this centrally<br />

located venue will appeal<br />

to rock music fans as it<br />

hosts a mix of local and<br />

international rock and<br />

metal bands three or<br />

four nights a week.<br />

LATE & LIVELY K3<br />

(3 Knabrostræde, tel:<br />

3311 3784) Previously<br />

the popular gay club<br />

Pan, this venue now<br />

prides itself on the<br />

diversity of its clientèle<br />

who dance the night<br />

away to sets by various<br />

international and<br />

Danish DJs on the four<br />

dancefl oors.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Foodies visiting<br />

Copenhagen should<br />

head to Løgismose,<br />

a gourmet food and<br />

wine shop that, thanks<br />

to its obscure location,<br />

remains unknown to<br />

many locals. Everything<br />

is top quality from<br />

the fresh bread and<br />

cakes to the cheeses,<br />

seafood and impressive<br />

selection of wine<br />

and spirits from<br />

COPENHAGEN<br />

STAR HOTEL<br />

★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />

Centrally located, in<br />

the heart of the city,<br />

with all major tourist<br />

attractions within<br />

walking distance this<br />

place is a real fi nd.<br />

From €93, book at<br />

hotels.easyJet.com.<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

around the world<br />

(16 Nordre Toldbod).<br />

SEE Take a stroll<br />

around the lofty, lightfi<br />

lled rooms of Kunsthal<br />

Charlottenborg, where<br />

changing exhibitions<br />

of contemporary<br />

artwork by Danish and<br />

international artists<br />

fi ll the walls and fl oor<br />

space. The bookshop<br />

and café are also worth<br />

a visit (2 Nyhavn).<br />

GO Linking swanky<br />

Frederiksberg with the<br />

more edgy Vesterbro<br />

is Værnedamsvej, a<br />

narrow street packed<br />

with great shops, cafés<br />

and restaurants. Spend<br />

an hour or so checking<br />

out the independent<br />

fashion boutiques,<br />

Benny’s fl orist and<br />

the delicatessens<br />

before treating yourself<br />

to a fresh juice at<br />

Granola or dinner at<br />

Les Trois Cochons.<br />

ESCAPE Fans of Out<br />

of Africa should take<br />

the train 25km north<br />

of Copenhagen to the<br />

Karen Blixen Museet,<br />

located in the house<br />

in which this famous<br />

author spent her entire<br />

life – except for her<br />

17 years in Africa. See<br />

rooms preserved in their<br />

original state, learn more<br />

about the author’s work<br />

and life and also enjoy<br />

the magnifi cent gardens<br />

(karen-blixen.dk).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Denmark has 12.7<br />

million pigs compared<br />

to 5.5 million people,<br />

making it the greatest<br />

producer of pigs per<br />

capita in the world.<br />

Cathy Strongman


128 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />

Corfu<br />

Greece<br />

DIALLING CODE +30<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Berlin, Bristol,<br />

London (LGW),<br />

Manchester, Milan (MXP)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €12.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Big Bite<br />

(Benitses, tel: 26610<br />

71142) Enjoying a<br />

wonderful seafront<br />

location, the Greek and<br />

English-run Big Bite<br />

features local dishes<br />

as well as international<br />

fl avours, all homemade<br />

and in big portions.<br />

Kids can play safely<br />

on the beach in front<br />

of the veranda.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Corfu<br />

Sailing Club (Mandraki,<br />

Old Fortress, Corfu Town,<br />

tel: 26610 38763) Not<br />

exclusively for members,<br />

this classy restaurant<br />

occupies the sea wall<br />

beside yacht moorings.<br />

The French-trained<br />

chef presents local and<br />

international dishes<br />

with style and fl air. Try<br />

fried Camembert with<br />

cranberry sauce, then<br />

DESERT<br />

ADVENTURES<br />

DISCOVER<br />

JORDAN’S<br />

WILD SIDE<br />

MARCH <strong>2011</strong><br />

*YOUR FREE COPY TO<br />

TAKE AWAY WITH YOU<br />

TRAVELLER<br />

EMPIRE<br />

OF THE SUN<br />

SPAIN’S SOLAR<br />

POWERED FUTURE<br />

GO LARGE IN<br />

GOTHENBURG<br />

A TASTE OF SWEDEN’S<br />

COFFEE CAPITAL<br />

ej_cover.indd 1 09/02/<strong>2011</strong> 11:03<br />

steak in port, with crème<br />

brûlée for pudding.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Petrino Bar<br />

(Main Street, Gastouri)<br />

Occupying the ground<br />

fl oor of a small mansion<br />

in a traditional village<br />

setting, this bar displays<br />

great local character.<br />

Pop in for refreshments<br />

during a trip to the<br />

nearby Achillion Palace.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Ekati Night Club (Main<br />

Paleokastritsa Highway,<br />

Alikes) Corfu’s foremost<br />

bouzouki nightclub<br />

presents well-known<br />

artists singing Greek<br />

popular music. The<br />

show gets going – very<br />

loudly – after midnight.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Tourmouzoglou<br />

Bookshop has the<br />

island’s best selection of<br />

guidebooks, maps and<br />

foreign-language novels.<br />

Ask for John Waller’s<br />

Walking the Corfu Trail<br />

with Friends, Flowers<br />

and Food, a funny yet<br />

serious account of a<br />

hike along the Corfu Trail<br />

(47 Nikiforos Theotoki<br />

Street, Corfu Town).<br />

GO Join in celebrations<br />

on Clean Monday,<br />

the fi rst day of Lent<br />

(7 March). Many villages<br />

put on a procession and<br />

fi esta – Peroulades in the<br />

north west has one of the<br />

best. Take along a picnic<br />

and plenty of wine.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Corfu’s carnival is<br />

reputed to be the best in<br />

Greece, and is closest to<br />

Venice’s celebrations.<br />

Hilary Paipeti<br />

Corsica<br />

(Ajaccio)<br />

France<br />

DIALLING CODE +33<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

Geneva, London (LGW),<br />

Paris (CDG)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €25<br />

Route 8 buses go<br />

to the centre in<br />

about 20 minutes, daily<br />

from 5.55am–11.15pm.<br />

Tickets: €4.50.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Le 20123<br />

(2 Rue du Roi de Rome,<br />

tel: 04 9521 5005) This<br />

restaurant may look like<br />

a village square, with its<br />

water pump and parked<br />

Vespa, but Le 20123<br />

off ers country food.<br />

EXCLUSIVE L’Altru<br />

Versu (Route des<br />

Sanguinaires, tel: 04<br />

9550 0522) For total<br />

indulgence on this<br />

beautiful island, there’s<br />

only one place to go.<br />

One of the best places<br />

to dine out in Corsica.<br />

Go for an extravagant<br />

lobster or eat citrus<br />

pork medallions. The<br />

service is fantastic.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Au<br />

Grandval (2 Cours<br />

Grandval) Relax with<br />

a good drink at this bar<br />

underneath a large palm<br />

tree. While sipping your<br />

drink, gaze at the street<br />

photography from this<br />

area of Corsica.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

La Place (Boulevard<br />

Lantivy) Downtown’s<br />

best discothèque, La<br />

Place, is the venue to<br />

party. The music is<br />

mainly techno and the<br />

clientèle is young.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP U Tilaghju, an<br />

artisan shop, is situated<br />

on Rue Forcioli Conti,<br />

close to the beautiful<br />

terracotta cathedral.<br />

Browse the lovely pieces<br />

of ceramic on sale.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

A visit to Ajaccio<br />

impressed the French<br />

artist Henri Matisse so<br />

much, it revolutionised<br />

his artistic ideas.<br />

Kimberley Chen<br />

FURNITURE<br />

MUSEUM<br />

SEE Musée de la<br />

Maison Bonaparte<br />

was once the home<br />

of the military leader<br />

Napoleon. There are<br />

many beautiful pieces<br />

of furniture on show<br />

(Rue St-Charles,<br />

tel: 04 9521 4389).<br />

Corsica<br />

(Bastia)<br />

France<br />

DIALLING CODE +33<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Geneva,<br />

London (LGW), Lyon,<br />

Manchester, Paris (CDG)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

If you want to continue to read this magazine<br />

and cannot take it with you, visit<br />

traveller.‰.com<br />

.com<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €50.<br />

Catch the bus to<br />

the Préfecture.<br />

Tickets: €9.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Le Bosco<br />

(12 Quai des Martyrs<br />

de la Libération, tel: 04<br />

9558 0802) The only<br />

Lebanese restaurant<br />

on the island serves a<br />

huge variety of delicious<br />

mezze. Savour a piece<br />

of homemade baklava<br />

while watching the<br />

ferries go by.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

La Corniche (San<br />

Martino di Lota, tel: 04<br />

9531 4098) La Corniche<br />

perches high on a hillside<br />

with spectacular views<br />

of the Mediterranean,<br />

about 10km north<br />

of Bastia. The menu<br />

includes Continental<br />

dishes served with<br />

a Corsican twist.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Le LVP<br />

Café (12 Rue Spinola,<br />

tel: 04 9531 2136)<br />

Sit back and relax<br />

with a glass of Pietra<br />

(Corsican chestnut<br />

beer) or local wine while<br />

admiring Bastia’s most<br />

picturesque port<br />

as the sun sets.<br />

LATE & LIVELY La<br />

Pinta (Port de Toga, tel:<br />

04 9534 2300) Dance<br />

the night away looking<br />

over the marina, enjoying<br />

regional beers and the<br />

fun-loving locals. This<br />

is one of Bastia’s staple<br />

nightspots, with live<br />

music at the weekends.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP At Les Grands<br />

Vins de Corse you’ll<br />

fi nd a good selection of<br />

Corsica’s fi nest wines,<br />

spirits and liqueurs,<br />

including wines made<br />

from Corsica’s unique<br />

grape varieties Nielluccio<br />

and Sciaccarellu (24<br />

Rue César Campinchi).<br />

SEE Bastia meets<br />

Moscow: take Musica<br />

Viva from Moscow,<br />

one of Russia’s most<br />

prestigous orchestras,<br />

add Laetitia Himo, an<br />

internationally acclaimed<br />

violoncellist from Bastia,<br />

and the result will be<br />

astounding. Catch it on<br />

25 March (Théâtre de<br />

Bastia, Rue Favalelli).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Bastia was founded in<br />

1378 by the Genoese<br />

and was the capital<br />

of Corsica until 1791.<br />

The name comes from<br />

bastiglia, meaning<br />

“stronghold”.<br />

Stacy Jouve<br />

00000 EasyJet WEBSITE 19.08.10.indd 1 10/02/<strong>2011</strong> 12:35<br />

TAXI


Crete<br />

(Heraklion)<br />

Greece<br />

DIALLING CODE +30<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Berlin, Bristol,<br />

Geneva, London (LGW),<br />

Manchester, Milan<br />

(MXP), Rome (FCO)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €14.<br />

Buses run every<br />

10 minutes to the<br />

centre. Tickets: €1.10.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Ippokambos Ouzerie<br />

(3 Sofokli Venizelou, tel:<br />

2810 280 240) Locals<br />

fl ock to this city-centre<br />

favourite, a family-run<br />

ouzerie taverna serving<br />

mezze, fresh fi sh and<br />

great seafood.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Brilliant<br />

Gourmet Restaurant<br />

(15 Epimenidou<br />

Street, tel: 2810 334<br />

959) Part of the Lato<br />

Boutique Hotel, this<br />

elegant restaurant with<br />

chic, modern décor<br />

off ers fi ne gourmet<br />

cuisine using local and<br />

Mediterranean fl avours.<br />

Think risotto with<br />

Cretan apaki smoked<br />

pork and chicken fi llet<br />

with mizithra creamy<br />

Cretan cheese.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Fashion<br />

Café (3 Korai and<br />

Perdikare Street) This<br />

café-bar has outdoor<br />

seating in the narrow<br />

streets in the heart of<br />

the city’s nightlife area,<br />

and is hugely popular<br />

with the young crowd.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Privilege (7 Doukos<br />

Beaufort) Privilege is<br />

back with a fresh new<br />

style. Dance the night<br />

away at this popular<br />

mainstream club playing<br />

dance, trance, hip<br />

hop, Greek music and<br />

everything in between.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Shop for<br />

fantastic Greek designer<br />

jewellery, watches and<br />

bags at Folli Follie in<br />

the city centre<br />

(23 Dedalou Street).<br />

GO For a lovely walk,<br />

head from Venizelou<br />

Square, strolling down<br />

25th August Street past<br />

the Venetian Loggia and<br />

St Titos church, admiring<br />

the Venetian mansions<br />

on the way. Continue<br />

down to the old port<br />

and the impressive<br />

Koules fortress.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Greece has the highest<br />

per capita consumption<br />

of olive oil in the world,<br />

and Cretans consume<br />

the most olive oil in<br />

Greece. The average<br />

Greek consumes more<br />

than 15kg a year, while in<br />

Crete that exceeds 20kg.<br />

Carol Palioudakis<br />

Cyprus<br />

(Larnaca)<br />

Cyprus<br />

DIALLING CODE +357<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London (LGW)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €15.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Village<br />

Tavern (Pyla Road,<br />

Pyla Village, tel: 24<br />

645 900) Theo and<br />

Denise serve homecooked<br />

bar snacks<br />

and restaurant meals.<br />

There’s a good choice of<br />

Cypriot or international<br />

dishes, and a special<br />

menu for children.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Charmers Restaurant<br />

(75 Pigiale Pasa<br />

Avenue, tel: 24 624<br />

127) A pleasant and<br />

ever-popular seafront<br />

restaurant that serves<br />

excellent steaks –<br />

fresh fi sh is also on<br />

the menu. You have to<br />

try the ice-cream cake<br />

for dessert.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY The Only<br />

Café-Bar (7 Georgiou<br />

Photiou, Oroklini, tel:<br />

24 647 740) A wellpriced<br />

all-day breakfast<br />

is served here and<br />

happy hour keeps the<br />

locals, well, happy every<br />

day from 12–9pm.<br />

Free Wi-Fi and live<br />

international football<br />

are also available.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Club Memphis<br />

(15–17 Corner of Lordou<br />

Vironos and Grigori<br />

Axfentiou Avenue)<br />

Dance until 4am at<br />

Club Memphis, where<br />

exclusive nights and<br />

events lure in local<br />

and international DJs,<br />

playing a mix of soul,<br />

R’n’B, house and Greek<br />

hits. The dress code is<br />

super stylish.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Choose an<br />

unusual gift from the<br />

Oro Fino jewellery<br />

shop, whose aim is<br />

to present previously<br />

unseen jewellery in<br />

an atmosphere of<br />

poetry and surreal décor<br />

(26 Pavlou Valsamaki<br />

Street, tel: 24 654 666,<br />

orofi nojewellery.com).<br />

SEE Larnaca’s<br />

Saturday-morning<br />

fruit and vegetable<br />

market is a real hive of<br />

activity and colour as<br />

Cypriot villagers sell<br />

their fresh, homegrown<br />

produce<br />

(Leontos Sofou Street).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Larnaca town is home<br />

to seven diff erent<br />

museums, ranging<br />

from ecclesiastical and<br />

medieval to fascinating<br />

archeological collections<br />

on show to the public.<br />

Bev Orton Jennings<br />

DESTINATION GUIDES | 129<br />

Cyprus<br />

(Paphos)<br />

Cyprus<br />

DIALLING CODE +357<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Bristol, Edinburgh,<br />

London (LGW, LTN),<br />

Manchester<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €30.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Tea For<br />

Two (Tombs of The<br />

Kings Road) This is one<br />

of the best cafés for<br />

international food in<br />

town, off ering friendly<br />

GREEN<br />

MONDAY<br />

SEE The 7 March<br />

marks the fi rst day<br />

of Lent in the Eastern<br />

Orthodox calendar.<br />

To celebrate, Cypriots<br />

hold picnics and have<br />

kite-fl ying events. At<br />

noon, head to Faros<br />

Beach in Paphos.<br />

service with indoor and<br />

outdoor seating. It does<br />

a good English breakfast.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Koi Thai<br />

& Japanese Restaurant<br />

(58 Poseidonos Avenue,<br />

tel: 26 813 456) Ultrachic<br />

and worth dressing<br />

up for, Koi serves a full<br />

range of delicious Asian<br />

cuisine with an emphasis<br />

on sushi, noodles,<br />

tempura, seafood and<br />

Thai curry dishes.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Balia<br />

Elektriki Cafe (8<br />

Vladimerou Herakleous,<br />

Ktima, tel: 26 222 157)<br />

Centrally located in the<br />

courtyard of the stylish<br />

Balia Elektriki Gallery,<br />

this chic venue serves a<br />

selection of coff ees, soft<br />

and alcoholic drinks.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Linekers (Bar Street)<br />

Dance until late every<br />

night at this lively bar,<br />

which attracts the<br />

young crowd. Resident<br />

DJs play the latest hits.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP At Avgoustinos<br />

Pottery you can take<br />

your pick from creative,<br />

original tableware and<br />

ornaments from one of<br />

the oldest potteries in<br />

Paphos (105 Makarios<br />

III Avenue, Yeroskipou,<br />

tel: 99 568 726).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Cyprus has a<br />

multicultural history,<br />

and hidden away<br />

inland is a collection of<br />

beautifully preserved<br />

Venetian bridges built<br />

for the camel caravans<br />

in the 16th century.<br />

Lucie Robson/lintv.eu


130 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />

Dalaman<br />

Turkey<br />

DIALLING CODE +90<br />

CURRENCY TRY<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Bristol, London<br />

(LGW, STN) Manchester<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs TRY30.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Ayytacc<br />

Café (14B Cumhuriyet<br />

Caddesi, tel: 0252 692<br />

4423) This snazzy café<br />

attracts a youthful mix<br />

of customers. Order<br />

a frothy cappuccino,<br />

as no alcohol is served,<br />

and enjoy a spot of<br />

people-watching. Open<br />

until midnight, it makes<br />

a great place to mingle<br />

with the local young<br />

and trendy crowd.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Cafe<br />

La Vie (Mara Mah,<br />

5 Salik sok, Dalyan,<br />

tel: 0252 284 4142)<br />

Tingle your taste<br />

buds at this fabulous<br />

restaurant. Enjoy a<br />

mouthwatering mixed<br />

grill and sip wonderful<br />

wines served with<br />

panache, while<br />

relaxing by the river<br />

running through<br />

the gardens.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Tesadüf<br />

(Ege Mah, 37 Kenan<br />

Evren Bulvarı, tel: 0252<br />

692 5914) Simply the<br />

best place in town to<br />

start your evening.<br />

Unwind to live local<br />

music while enjoying<br />

a delicious steak or<br />

freshly caught seabass<br />

in Dalaman’s newest<br />

hip location.<br />

LATE & LIVELY Jazz<br />

Bar (Cumhurriyet<br />

Mah, Göcek, tel: 0252<br />

645 1729) Finish the<br />

evening a-rockin’-anda-rollin’<br />

until dawn to<br />

local and international<br />

hits played with<br />

style by a variety<br />

of live musicians.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Remember,<br />

sparkling diamonds<br />

are a girl’s best friend.<br />

Gürhan is the man to<br />

see if you want your<br />

rock set in 14-carat<br />

gold made to your<br />

own design (Gürhan<br />

Kuyumculuk, 47<br />

Atatürk Caddesi,<br />

tel: 0252 692 2842).<br />

GO Sea too cold?<br />

Then visit the natural<br />

thermal pool at Fevziye,<br />

where the water is<br />

a constant 27°C.<br />

The water is said to<br />

cure everything from<br />

psoriasis to sciatica<br />

(Gurukardı Mah,<br />

Kukurtlu su, Fevziye,<br />

tel: 0252 285 8219).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The world’s oldest<br />

known shipwreck was<br />

found and excavated in<br />

Uluburun, just along the<br />

coast from Dalaman.<br />

Rod Harrison<br />

Dortmund<br />

Germany<br />

DIALLING CODE +49<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Barcelona,<br />

Budapest, Krakow,<br />

London (LTN), Majorca,<br />

Thessaloniki, Zagreb<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €22.<br />

The Airport<br />

Express leaves<br />

every hour. Tickets: €6.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Café<br />

Lotte (31 Dresdener<br />

Strasse, tel: 0231 5303<br />

1131) This delightful<br />

corner café with a<br />

Jugendstil fl oor serves<br />

tasty and healthy<br />

breakfasts, lunches and<br />

homemade cakes, and<br />

an incredible variety<br />

of hot chocolate drinks.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Palmgarten (200<br />

Hohensyburgstrasse,<br />

tel: 0231 774 0731) At<br />

the classy restaurant<br />

of the Hohensyburg<br />

casino, enjoy great<br />

seasonal food that<br />

comes with fantastic<br />

views over the valley<br />

and pay the bill with<br />

your winnings next door.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Las Salinas<br />

(9–11 Kleppingstrasse,<br />

tel: 0231 150 4434) To<br />

fi nd some Mediterranean<br />

holiday atmosphere in<br />

Dortmund, head to this<br />

trendy Spanish bar in the<br />

pedestrian area. Named<br />

after a beach in Ibiza, it<br />

doesn’t disappoint.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Freizeitzentrum West<br />

(20 Ritterstrasse,<br />

tel: 0231 177 820) A<br />

functional building<br />

behind the Dortmunder<br />

U complex is home to<br />

“Leisure Centre West”,<br />

which hosts the best<br />

rock, punk and indie<br />

music concerts and<br />

parties in the region. With<br />

260 events a year, there’s<br />

always something<br />

interesting on.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP If you’re in<br />

the market for quality<br />

second-hand CDs,<br />

DVDs, games and more,<br />

head to Andrä, which<br />

is one of Germany’s<br />

largest chain stores<br />

(54 Westenhellweg).<br />

SEE Dortmund’s streets<br />

fi ll up with thousands of<br />

cheerful revellers this<br />

month, as the annual<br />

carnival hits the city<br />

streets. It lasts for several<br />

days, with bars and cafés<br />

full of people in fancy<br />

dress – but the highlight<br />

is the Rosenmontag<br />

parade on 7 March.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The world’s smallest<br />

carnival parade takes<br />

place annually in Unna,<br />

just east of Dortmund.<br />

Jeroen van Marle/<br />

inyourpocket.com<br />

Dresden<br />

Germany<br />

DIALLING CODE +49<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €20.<br />

The S-Bahn runs<br />

every 30 minutes.<br />

Tickets: €2 single.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Watzke<br />

Ball & Brauhaus<br />

(1 Kötzschenbroder<br />

Strasse, tel: 0351 852<br />

920) In the summer,<br />

seating along the Elbe<br />

River off ers views of<br />

the historic centre. In<br />

the winter, live music<br />

LATE &<br />

LIVELY<br />

Jazzclub Neue Tonne<br />

(15 Königstrasse)<br />

Subterranean vaulted<br />

digs are Dresden’s<br />

address for jazz.<br />

Local acts keep the<br />

connoisseurs and<br />

the come-latelys<br />

bopping their heads.<br />

animates the ballroom.<br />

Throughout the year,<br />

there’s traditional<br />

German food and beers<br />

brewed on-site.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Ontario<br />

(2 An der Frauenkirche,<br />

tel: 0351 4028 8660)<br />

It might seem odd to<br />

order braised caribou at<br />

a Canadian restaurant<br />

in the baroque heart<br />

of a German city, but<br />

delectability knows<br />

no borders here.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY<br />

Wohnzimmer (27<br />

Jordanstrasse, tel: 0351<br />

563 5956) The name<br />

of this café-bar-lounge<br />

means “living room”.<br />

With two fl oors of<br />

armchairs and sofas,<br />

you’re bound to fi nd<br />

enough loose change to<br />

cover the tab for all those<br />

ambrosian cocktails.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Then Der<br />

Senfl aden (The Mustard<br />

Shop) created cranberry<br />

cream horseradish,<br />

black beer mustard,<br />

fi g jam mustard and<br />

hundreds more varieties<br />

(79 Bautzner Strasse).<br />

SEE Dresden’s State<br />

Art Collection is divided<br />

among 13 museums,<br />

but the Green Vault<br />

holds Europe’s richest<br />

collection of treasures.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

What do beer coasters,<br />

daily paper, toothpaste<br />

and the bra – just to<br />

name a few – all have<br />

in common? They were<br />

all invented in the Free<br />

State of Saxony.<br />

Chris Bush


132 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />

Düsseldorf<br />

Germany<br />

DIALLING CODE +49<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

London (LGW), Rome (FCO)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €20.<br />

Trains to the<br />

Hauptbahnhof<br />

leave every 10 minutes.<br />

Tickets: €3.30.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Curry<br />

(2 Hammer Strasse,<br />

tel: 0211 303 2857)<br />

Top-notch sausages,<br />

twice-cooked chips<br />

and a range of sauces<br />

from fruity curry to<br />

aioli ensure the simple<br />

and inexpensive fare at<br />

Curry is very chic.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Tafelspitz 1876 (42A<br />

Grünerstrasse, tel: 0211<br />

171 7361) A former cake<br />

shop reworked by Daniel<br />

Dal-Ben as a Michelinstarred<br />

gourmet<br />

restaurant, Tafelspitz<br />

1876 is the place to feast<br />

on goose liver praline,<br />

oxtail soup with rare ribeye<br />

steak or line-caught<br />

zander with warm Black<br />

Forest ham gelée.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Brauerei<br />

Schumacher (123<br />

Oststrasse, tel: 0211 828<br />

9020) You won’t get the<br />

Schumacher brewery’s<br />

traditional Düsseldorf Alt<br />

beer fresher than on the<br />

site where it’s brewed.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Anaconda Lounge (11<br />

Andreasstrasse, tel:<br />

0172 272 7252) Original<br />

1960s design meets<br />

cocktails and electro<br />

to create a club in<br />

miniature at Anaconda<br />

Lounge, open until<br />

5am on Fridays<br />

and for Saturday’s<br />

Elektromeisterei.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP This month<br />

the GDS international<br />

shoe fair is in town, but<br />

unless you’re a trade<br />

visitor you won’t get in.<br />

Head instead for Jerry’s<br />

Exclusiv, where you’ll fi nd<br />

luxurious Lobb footwear<br />

for men and fi ne Italian<br />

shoes for women (Kö-<br />

Galerie, 58 Königsallee,<br />

jerrys-exclusiv.de).<br />

SEE Carnival is known<br />

as the “fi fth season”<br />

here. It climaxes with<br />

Rosenmontag on 7<br />

March, when a giant<br />

parade makes its way<br />

through the city, and<br />

costumes and silliness<br />

are the order of the day<br />

(comitee-duesseldorfercarneval.de).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

It was here in 1970<br />

that Ralf Hütter and<br />

Florian Schneider<br />

came together to form<br />

celebrated synthesizer<br />

pioneers Kraftwerk.<br />

Neville Walker<br />

Edinburgh<br />

UK<br />

DIALLING CODE +44<br />

CURRENCY £<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Alicante,<br />

Amsterdam, Basel-<br />

Mulhouse, Belfast (BFS),<br />

Bristol, Cologne, Cyprus<br />

(Paphos), Geneva, Krakow,<br />

Lisbon, London (LGW,<br />

LTN, STN), Lyon, Madrid,<br />

Milan (MXP), Munich,<br />

Majorca, Nice, Paris (CDG)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs £15.<br />

The Airlink 100<br />

service goes to<br />

the centre. Tickets: £6.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 Illegal<br />

Jack’s South West Grill<br />

(113–117 Lothian Road,<br />

tel: 0131 622 7499) This<br />

is a big, plainly set-out<br />

eatery that gets its Tex-<br />

Mex style exactly right.<br />

It isn’t sophisticated, but<br />

it’s certainly fi lling, fresh<br />

and friendly, with the<br />

accent as much on the<br />

food as it is on being fast.<br />

UP TO €30 The<br />

Magnum Restaurant<br />

& Bar (1 Albany Street,<br />

tel: 0131 557 4366) The<br />

Magnum delivers strong,<br />

old-fashioned service<br />

and a Scottish menu<br />

that gives a modern<br />

twist to the suitably<br />

traditional element that’s<br />

in keeping with its New<br />

Town setting. Satisfyingly<br />

comfy dining on all levels,<br />

with a great wine list.<br />

UP TO €50 Calistoga<br />

Restaurant & Sideways<br />

Wines (70 Rose Street<br />

North Lane, tel: 0131 225<br />

1233) Bang in the heart<br />

of the New Town, but<br />

hidden away down a tiny<br />

lane, this is Californian<br />

dining of the kind that<br />

likes local sourcing and<br />

Pacifi c Rim fl avours.<br />

The choice isn’t vast so<br />

the attention to detail is<br />

strong, with the steamed<br />

bass particularly piquant.<br />

The wine list is long<br />

but aff ordable.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Castle<br />

Terrace (33–35 Castle<br />

Terrace, tel: 0131 229<br />

1222) It only opened<br />

last July, but a “rising<br />

star” in the <strong>2011</strong><br />

Michelin Guide marks<br />

out this uncluttered,<br />

sophisticated restaurant<br />

for future greatness.<br />

Chef and patron<br />

Dominic Jack holds true<br />

to mentor Tom Kitchin’s<br />

from-nature-to-plate<br />

philosophy, bringing<br />

techniques learned<br />

in starred French<br />

restaurants to<br />

Scottish produce.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Hyde<br />

Out (2 Fountainbridge<br />

Square, tel: 0131 221<br />

0632) A classy newstyle<br />

bar on the canal<br />

waterfront at Edinburgh<br />

Quay, where the bespoke<br />

designer trimmings are<br />

as noteworthy as the<br />

superior menu. A cool<br />

place to lounge with<br />

cocktails and fi ne wines.<br />

LIVE MUSIC<br />

Bannerman’s Bar (212<br />

Cowgate, tel: 0131 556<br />

3254) Barrel-vaulted<br />

ceilings don’t improve<br />

the acoustics of this<br />

vibrant haunt for local<br />

bands, but they help<br />

keep the enthusiasm<br />

levels high. There’s live<br />

music most evenings,<br />

for those who like it loud.<br />

LATE & LIVELY Pivo<br />

(2 Calton Road, tel: 0131<br />

557 2925) Edinburgh’s<br />

up-and-coming DJs<br />

display their mixing skills<br />

every night at this stylish<br />

and lively bar that’s open<br />

from 4pm to 3am. It’s<br />

a good central pre-club<br />

hangout, or a great place<br />

to stay all night.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Threadbare is an<br />

Aladdin’s cave of retro,<br />

kitsch and collectable<br />

clothing, tucked away<br />

in a basement at the<br />

bottom of Broughton<br />

Street. Perfect for a<br />

TEN HILL<br />

PLACE HOTEL<br />

★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />

Find a little peace and<br />

quiet among the<br />

hustle and bustle<br />

of the city at this<br />

stylish and tastefully<br />

decorated hotel.<br />

From €74, book at<br />

hotels.easyJet.com.<br />

unique bargain item<br />

to set off an outfi t – or<br />

a piece of designer<br />

cashmere (66A<br />

Broughton Street).<br />

SEE There’s sensuality<br />

all month at the Royal<br />

Lyceum Theatre, with<br />

Stella Quines’ genrebusting,<br />

sexy ensemble<br />

piece Age of Arousal<br />

until 12 March, and Sue<br />

Glover’s Marilyn – about<br />

Monroe and Simone<br />

Signoret – from 15<br />

March (Grindlay Street,<br />

tel: 0131 248 4848,<br />

lyceum.org.uk).<br />

GO South of the city<br />

centre, on the 41 bus<br />

route, Blackford Hill<br />

is home to the Royal<br />

Observatory and its<br />

visitors’ centre. One of<br />

the city’s better places to<br />

blow away the cobwebs,<br />

with stunning panoramic<br />

views of the city.<br />

ESCAPE Linlithgow,<br />

20 minutes east of<br />

Edinburgh by train, was<br />

a favoured stopping<br />

place for Scottish<br />

royalty on the road<br />

to Stirling. Linlithgow<br />

Palace was the nursery<br />

for Scottish royalty<br />

in the 16th century,<br />

including Mary Queen<br />

of Scots, although this<br />

impressive building in<br />

beautiful parkland is<br />

now largely ruined.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Hyde Out’s toile<br />

wallpaper, originally<br />

designed for the<br />

Edinburgh International<br />

Festival, caused<br />

outrage with its realistic<br />

depiction of vagrants<br />

and drunks among of<br />

the city’s monuments.<br />

Thom Dibdin


Königsallee<br />

for Style Icons<br />

Top designers, international labels and<br />

the latest trends in fashion on and<br />

around the Königsallee.<br />

Experience total shopping in the city<br />

of lifestyle on the banks of the Rhine.<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

www.visitduesseldorf.de


134 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />

Faro<br />

Portugal<br />

DIALLING CODE +351<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Belfast (BFS),<br />

Bristol, Geneva, Glasgow,<br />

Liverpool, London (LGW,<br />

LTN, STN), Newcastle,<br />

Paris (ORY)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

The fare to Faro is €10,<br />

Vilamoura €25, and<br />

Albufeira and Tavira €40.<br />

Eva buses<br />

go to various<br />

destinations.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 Taberna<br />

da Maré (9 Travessa da<br />

Barca, Portimão, tel: 282<br />

414 614) Tucked away<br />

in the backstreets near<br />

the harbour, this cosy<br />

eatery is hard to fi nd,<br />

but worth it for tasty<br />

Algarvean home cooking<br />

at its best. Especially<br />

recommended are the<br />

bacalhau (cod) dishes<br />

and grilled sardines.<br />

Delightfully, it has<br />

hardly changed in 20<br />

years – there’s still no<br />

English menu.<br />

UP TO €30 Mussiene<br />

(Monte São José,<br />

Messines, tel: 282 339<br />

357) Get off the tourist<br />

trail to discover this<br />

hidden gem: a very<br />

modern take – with<br />

décor to match – on<br />

traditional Portuguese<br />

rustic cuisine, with<br />

highlights including<br />

black pig cheeks with<br />

mountain cheese,<br />

forest mushroom<br />

risotto and stewed<br />

partridge with polenta.<br />

Save space for<br />

the drunken pears<br />

for a delicious dessert.<br />

UP TO €50<br />

La Terrazza (Praça<br />

Vale do Lobo, tel: 289<br />

356 019) You’ll fi nd<br />

great pizza and pastas,<br />

a superb atmosphere<br />

and good old-fashioned<br />

Italian gusto in this<br />

family environment. Try<br />

the steak in brandy or<br />

red snapper with garlic<br />

for something with<br />

a kick. There’s also<br />

a good wine list.<br />

Zu Yi (Vilamoura<br />

Marina, tel: 289 302<br />

531) Great Chinese<br />

restaurants are hard<br />

to fi nd in the Algarve,<br />

but look no further<br />

than Zu Yi. Modern<br />

décor, harbour views,<br />

and a wide selection<br />

of favourites, from dim<br />

sum to crispy duck<br />

make this place<br />

a winner.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Fine<br />

Dining In Style<br />

(Estrada Vale do Lobo,<br />

Almancil, tel: 289 355<br />

534) Book a gourmet<br />

private dinner for 12<br />

at this upmarket<br />

catering specialists’<br />

own dining facility, or<br />

impress your guests by<br />

getting the Michelintrained<br />

chefs to cook<br />

up a treat for a dinner<br />

party in your holiday<br />

villa. They bring in the<br />

food and wine, prepare<br />

and serve, and even do<br />

the washing up.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Casa Azul<br />

(Cacela Velha, Tavira)<br />

A rooftop patio café<br />

with comfy chairs<br />

and a roaring log fi re<br />

– the perfect winter<br />

hideaway in which<br />

to enjoy homemade<br />

desserts and fresh<br />

coff ee or a warming<br />

aperitif before<br />

a stroll to dinner.<br />

LIVE MUSIC<br />

Phoenix Nites (Rua<br />

des Goncalo, Lagos)<br />

Popular old-style<br />

nightspot with an<br />

eclectic choice of<br />

music, from live DJs<br />

and hip hop to rock<br />

and indie. The crowd<br />

is friendly and the<br />

party keeps going<br />

into the early hours.<br />

LATE & LIVELY Casa<br />

do Cerro (Cerro da<br />

Piedade, Albufeira) An<br />

exotic-themed club<br />

with a dramatic hilltop<br />

setting, bustling bar<br />

and pulsating music.<br />

Chill out with a sheesha<br />

pipe or cool off away<br />

from the crowds on<br />

one of the terraces –<br />

Algarve springtime<br />

should make the nights<br />

a little warmer by now.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP There’s a wide<br />

choice of holiday gift<br />

ideas at the upscale<br />

complex Vale do Lobo<br />

Shopping, including<br />

designer sportswear<br />

from Gant and Henry<br />

www.ipayfx.com<br />

Cotton, wine and<br />

gourmet food from<br />

Soares, and golfi ng<br />

accessories from<br />

Nevada Bob’s. Ladies<br />

can even get a new<br />

hairstyle and makeover<br />

at the beauty salon<br />

(tel: 289 353 000).<br />

SEE The week-long<br />

carnival festivities<br />

in the historic town<br />

of Loulé culminate<br />

in parades, street<br />

entertainment, fancy<br />

dress and all-night<br />

parties on Shrove<br />

Tuesday (8 March).<br />

GO Six of the Algarve’s<br />

36 top golf courses are<br />

in Vilamoura, making<br />

it an ideal destination<br />

for an off -peak golfi ng<br />

break. If you can tear<br />

yourself away from the<br />

greens, book a boat<br />

trip, shop for designer<br />

fashion or gifts, or stop<br />

for a sundowner and<br />

admire the fl oating gin<br />

palaces in the marina.<br />

ESCAPE Odeceixe<br />

on the Alentejo border,<br />

90 minutes away by<br />

car, is the Algarve’s<br />

furthest-fl ung outpost<br />

and one of its prettiest<br />

towns. Eat, shop and<br />

take photos, then<br />

blow away the cobwebs<br />

with a bracing walk<br />

on one of the two<br />

spectacular beaches.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Portugal currently<br />

operates on GMT,<br />

but used Central<br />

European Time<br />

from 1966–76 and<br />

1992–96 in attempts<br />

to synchronise with<br />

neighbouring Spain.<br />

Paul Rouse/<br />

inspirationsalgarve.com<br />

Fez<br />

Morocco<br />

DIALLING CODE +212<br />

CURRENCY MAD<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Paris (CDG)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com. A<br />

local taxi costs 120MAD.<br />

Buses run to<br />

the train station<br />

in the New City.<br />

Tickets: 20MAD.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Najmat<br />

Souafi ne (9 Oued<br />

Souafi ne) Dine on the<br />

roof terrace or under<br />

the arches of the old mill<br />

at this fusion restaurant<br />

that serves the freshest<br />

food with a light touch.<br />

RAMADA<br />

HOTEL<br />

★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />

An elegant, modern<br />

hotel in the centre<br />

of the old city with<br />

four restaurants<br />

and a superb spa.<br />

Breakfast Included,<br />

from €87, book at<br />

hotels.easyJet.com.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Dar<br />

Anebar (15 Derb<br />

el-Miter, Zenjfour) This<br />

infi nitely romantic riad<br />

restaurant will win<br />

your heart with its<br />

take on traditional<br />

Moroccan dishes.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Hôtel Les<br />

Mérinides (Borj Nord,<br />

tel: 0535 645 226) Head<br />

for the hotel terrace for<br />

a drink just as the sun<br />

sets. The views across<br />

the medina will have you<br />

spellbound as the call<br />

to prayer sounds out.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Consul Bar, Batha<br />

Hotel (Place de<br />

l’Independence, Batha,<br />

tel: 0535 634 860) Once<br />

upon a time this was the<br />

British consulate in Fez,<br />

but it’s now a great place<br />

to unwind with a beer.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Made in M is<br />

a stylish shop with a<br />

wide range of Moroccan<br />

goodies, including handembroidered<br />

cushions,<br />

tadelakt candleholders,<br />

argan oil, and the most<br />

delectable patisserie<br />

(Tala’a Kebira).<br />

GO Try a traditional<br />

hammam like the locals:<br />

get smothered in brown<br />

goo, scrubbed with a<br />

rough glove until you’re<br />

shiny, then massaged<br />

into a state of bliss.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The Water Clock near<br />

Bouanania Medersa<br />

once told the time with<br />

metal balls that were<br />

released from 12 little<br />

doors into brass bowls.<br />

Helen Ranger<br />

Online international payments.<br />

Control in the palm of your hand.


Best properties<br />

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n° 245 Imm. Wataniya, Av Mohammed V<br />

3ème étage N° 309 Marrakech Guéliz MAROC<br />

Tel - 00 212 5 24 42 26 72 : Fax - 00 212 5 24 42 19 63<br />

Email - contact@atlasimmobilier.com<br />

Business Room concept Try it<br />

New meeting package Success<br />

Attractive weekend offer Enjoy<br />

Mövenpick Hotel & Casino Geneva<br />

Case postale 556, Route de Pré-Bois 20<br />

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For more details<br />

please contact us :<br />

Phone +41 22 717 11 11


136 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />

Fuerteventura<br />

Spain<br />

DIALLING CODE +34<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Bristol, Liverpool,<br />

London (STN), Madrid<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

The fare to Corralejo is<br />

€60, Caleta de Fuste €15<br />

and Costa Calma €90.<br />

Route 3 goes to<br />

Caleta de Fuste.<br />

Tickets: €1.40. Route 6<br />

buses, to Corralejo, run<br />

every hour. Tickets: €4.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Casa<br />

Manolo (13 Calle<br />

Crucero Baleares,<br />

tel: 928 866 575) For<br />

traditional tapas, this<br />

place is a must. Manolo is<br />

the chef and owner, and<br />

oversees this friendly,<br />

family-run restaurant.<br />

EXCLUSIVE La<br />

Terraza del Muelle<br />

(Carretera los Pozos,<br />

tel: 928 861 635) Enjoy<br />

the authentic taste of<br />

Fuerteventura’s local<br />

cuisine with fi ne-dining<br />

dishes. The foie gras<br />

salad and morcilla de<br />

Burgos (Burgos black<br />

pudding) come highly<br />

recommended. Great<br />

location overlooking the<br />

harbour in the capital.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY<br />

Bougainville (Calle<br />

la Iglesia, Corralejo)<br />

A central cocktail and<br />

wine bar overlooking the<br />

Old Town square. Come<br />

for a quiet drink to get<br />

your night started.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Bugaloo (2 Calle Hernan<br />

Cortez, Corralejo) A<br />

cosy bar with a fantastic<br />

welcome and a terrace<br />

that provides views out<br />

to sea. The owner, Frans,<br />

is Dutch, but the bar has<br />

an international feel,<br />

with a regular group of<br />

holidaymakers having<br />

a drink or two.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Visit the Floating<br />

Shop in the harbour at<br />

Caleta de Fuste, where<br />

you can buy great<br />

souvenirs and typical<br />

Canarian fare.<br />

SEE Corralejo Carnival<br />

takes place from 16–27<br />

March and culminates<br />

with a fantastic parade<br />

on Saturday 26th. The<br />

theme this year, to be<br />

followed in manner and<br />

dress, is old civilisations.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The Egyptian vulture<br />

population of the Canary<br />

Islands was established<br />

around 2,500 years<br />

ago – around the same<br />

time as humans began<br />

to colonise the islands.<br />

For once, human<br />

activity assisted in the<br />

diversifi cation of<br />

the bird, now an<br />

endangered species.<br />

Penny Melville<br />

Geneva<br />

Switzerland<br />

DIALLING CODE +41<br />

CURRENCY CHF<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Alicante,<br />

Amsterdam, Asturias,<br />

Barcelona, Belfast<br />

(BFS), Berlin,<br />

Birmingham, Bordeaux,<br />

Bournemouth, Brindisi,<br />

Bristol, Brussels,<br />

Budapest, Cagliari,<br />

Copenhagen, Corsica<br />

(Ajaccio), Corsica<br />

(Bastia), Crete<br />

(Heraklion), Dubrovnik,<br />

Edinburgh, Faro,<br />

Glasgow, Hurghada,<br />

Ibiza, Lisbon, Liverpool,<br />

Leeds-Bradford, London<br />

(LGW, LTN, STN),<br />

Madrid,Majorca, Málaga,<br />

Manchester, Marrakech,<br />

Mykonos, Nantes,<br />

Naples, Newcastle,<br />

Nice, Olbia, Paris (ORY),<br />

Porto, Pristina, Rome<br />

(CIA), Santiago de<br />

Compostela, Sharm El<br />

Sheikh, Split, Stockholm,<br />

Tel Aviv, Toulouse<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com. A<br />

local taxi costs CHF50.<br />

Trains to Cornavin<br />

station cost CHF7.<br />

Free tickets are valid<br />

for one hour after the<br />

arrival of your fl ight.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 Chez<br />

Leung (5 Avenue du<br />

Mail, tel: 022 321 8940)<br />

Pick up a great takeaway<br />

meal from this Asian<br />

fast-food eatery boasting<br />

an extensive menu of<br />

dishes, including many<br />

vegetarian options.<br />

UP TO €30 Outback<br />

Cafè (65 Route de<br />

Chêne, tel: 022 735<br />

6398) Carnivores<br />

who want something<br />

a little more daring<br />

than chicken or steak<br />

should check out the<br />

extraordinary Australian<br />

cuisine at the Outback<br />

Café. Kangaroo, alligator<br />

and ostrich are just a few<br />

of the choices available.<br />

UP TO €50 Al Cova<br />

(59 Rue du Rhône,<br />

tel: 022 310 1555)<br />

In the heart of the<br />

shopping and business<br />

district, this charming<br />

restaurant serves<br />

Sicilian specialities.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Le<br />

Farçon (Immeuble<br />

Kalinka, La Tania, tel: +33<br />

4 7908 8034) Hop over<br />

the French border to La<br />

Tania for a Michelinstarred<br />

treat. Le Farçon’s<br />

head chef, Julien Machet,<br />

off ers an embellished<br />

tasting menu or an<br />

inexpensive lunch menu.<br />

Dine while gazing out<br />

over some of the best<br />

scenery in the Alps.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Café du<br />

Lys (7 Rue de l’Ecole<br />

de Médecine, tel: 022<br />

328 7826) A Genevan<br />

institution, this is the<br />

perfect place for an<br />

apéro (early evening<br />

drink) and a tasty tapas<br />

snack in a relaxed<br />

setting. Also good for<br />

croissants and coff ee.<br />

LIVE MUSIC<br />

Alhambar (10 Rue de la<br />

Rôtisserie) On the outer<br />

edges of the Old Town,<br />

this place serves great<br />

cocktails and features<br />

up-and-coming local<br />

live acts with a dancejazz<br />

fl avour throughout<br />

the week. The Sunday<br />

brunch with bands is<br />

always a big hit, get in<br />

early to claim your seat.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Le Francis (8 Boulevard<br />

Helvétique, tel: 022 346<br />

3252) Across the lake at<br />

Rive, in the heart of the<br />

shopping and fi nancial<br />

district, you’ll fi nd this<br />

resto-club. Popular with<br />

a smooth crowd, it’s<br />

ideal for a meal followed<br />

by some dancing.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Rue des Paquis<br />

is perhaps the most<br />

eclectic area of Geneva,<br />

thanks to a wide mixture<br />

of hip shops, African<br />

and Asian food stores,<br />

NENDAZ IN<br />

YOUR POCKET<br />

For all you need to<br />

know about the Alpine<br />

resort of Nendaz,<br />

type m.nendaz.ch<br />

into the browser on<br />

your smartphone,<br />

and the resort’s top<br />

tips will download to<br />

your phone.<br />

antiques, furniture and<br />

second-hand designer<br />

boutiques. A buzzing<br />

place during the day,<br />

it off ers a vast contrast<br />

to the big-name<br />

brands who line the<br />

pavements on the other<br />

side of the city.<br />

SEE Fondation Martin<br />

Bodmer celebrates all<br />

sorts of artistic printed<br />

matter. The stunning<br />

Mario Botta-designed<br />

space is home to some<br />

of the world’s most<br />

prized books and scrolls.<br />

The Humboldt travel<br />

diaries are a particular<br />

highlight (19–21 Route<br />

du Guignard).<br />

GO The city-centre Parc<br />

des Bastions is home to<br />

the famous Reformation<br />

Wall. Built between<br />

1909 and 1917, it depicts<br />

the main founders of<br />

Protestantism. Head to<br />

the park’s pretty pavilionstyle<br />

restaurant and<br />

watch locals play chess<br />

with life-size pieces.<br />

ESCAPE Lavaux<br />

Express is a stylish way<br />

to explore this pretty<br />

wine-growing region,<br />

which is also a UNESCO<br />

World Heritage Site.<br />

Trains leave from the city<br />

from Wednesday<br />

to Saturday; the journey<br />

through the Lavaux wine<br />

region lasts around one<br />

hour, with stops along<br />

the way (Montreux-<br />

Vevey Tourisme,<br />

tel: 021 962 8454).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Geneva is home to<br />

the largest public park<br />

bench in the world – the<br />

bench, at Promenade de<br />

la Treille, is 126m long!<br />

Celeste Neill


Invest with the best<br />

In Flaine from<br />

Freehold<br />

ownership<br />

and holidays<br />

Alternate your holidays in Courchevel,<br />

Meribel or Val d’Isere…<br />

Prestigious 5* residence with excellent facilities<br />

Nestled in a spruce forest with breathtaking views<br />

Spa, swimming pool, sauna and Jacuzzi<br />

Rental management with guaranteed net rental income<br />

19.6% VAT rebate<br />

No running charges or maintenance costs<br />

Grand Massif / 265km of pistes / Less than 1hr from Geneva<br />

Tel: +44 (0) 207 471 4500<br />

www.pierre-vacances.co.uk<br />

email: uk@pierre-vacances.fr


138 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />

Gibraltar<br />

UK Territory<br />

DIALLING CODE +350<br />

CURRENCY £<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Liverpool,<br />

London (LGW)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs £5.<br />

Routes 3, 9 and<br />

10 run every 10<br />

minutes. Tickets: £1.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Ipanema<br />

(11 Ocean Village<br />

Promenade, tel: 216 648<br />

888) A popular family<br />

choice that’s famous<br />

for the inexpensive<br />

all-you-can-eat hot and<br />

cold buff et with plenty<br />

of choice, including<br />

smoked gammon and<br />

pineapple, BBQ ribs,<br />

chicken wings and<br />

pasta dishes.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Maharaja (5 Tuckey’s<br />

Lane, tel: 200 75233)<br />

The original Indian<br />

restaurant on the Rock<br />

has benefi ted from a<br />

classy refurbishment.<br />

The menu off ers a lavish<br />

selection of favourites,<br />

including tandooris,<br />

kormas, rogan josh and<br />

masala curries.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Captain’s<br />

Cabin (5 John<br />

Mackintosh Square,<br />

tel: 200 72633) This<br />

appropriately named<br />

watering hole has walls<br />

lined with seafaring<br />

pictures and an<br />

intimate, cosy interior.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Latino’s Cocktail Bar<br />

(21B Casemates Square,<br />

tel: 200 47755) Latino’s<br />

has a young vibe on<br />

Friday nights with live<br />

music, while Saturdays<br />

see a more mature<br />

crowd turn up for blues<br />

and jazz – as well as<br />

those killer cocktails.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Check out<br />

the hand-blown glass<br />

jewellery and décor at<br />

Gibraltar Crystal on<br />

Casemates Square. You<br />

can watch glass being<br />

blown and even design<br />

your own wine glass.<br />

The quality is superb<br />

and the list of past<br />

customers impressive.<br />

SEE The World War II<br />

tunnels may not be as<br />

well known as the Siege<br />

Tunnels, but they’re<br />

equally fascinating.<br />

They comprise a<br />

complex defense<br />

system hewn out of the<br />

rock marking where the<br />

Allied invasion of North<br />

Africa was planned.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The extensive Siege<br />

Tunnels only form a<br />

fraction of the 70km of<br />

underground tunnels<br />

that have been dug out<br />

of the Rock during its<br />

tumultuous history.<br />

Josephine Quintero<br />

Glasgow<br />

UK<br />

DIALLING CODE +44<br />

CURRENCY £<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Alicante, Belfast<br />

(BFS), Berlin, Bristol,<br />

Faro, Geneva, Ibiza,<br />

London (LGW, LTN,<br />

STN), Málaga, Majorca,<br />

Paris (CDG)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs £17.<br />

Arriva Glasgow<br />

Flyer Bus leaves<br />

every 10 minutes.<br />

£4.20 single; £6.50<br />

open return.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 Tattie<br />

Mac’s Bistro (61 Otago<br />

Street, tel: 0141 337<br />

2282) This gem of an<br />

eatery is located in<br />

Glasgow’s West End, with<br />

a cosy atmosphere, great<br />

food and fab prices. The<br />

Bistro menu is excellent,<br />

with two- or three-course<br />

meals available. Tattie’s<br />

also has an express<br />

menu and fantastic<br />

à la carte, complemented<br />

by a wonderful selection<br />

of white and red wines.<br />

UP TO €30 Amore<br />

Ristorante Pizzeria<br />

(30 Ingram Street, tel:<br />

0141 553 0810) Since<br />

opening a few years<br />

ago, this restaurant has<br />

gone from strength to<br />

strength. Using locally<br />

and seasonally sourced<br />

meat and fi sh, the menu<br />

is simply delicious.<br />

Pizza, pasta, steak, veal,<br />

chicken, salads and<br />

seafood are all served<br />

in elegant surroundings<br />

by friendly staff .<br />

UP TO €50 Rab Ha’s<br />

(81 Hutcheson Street,<br />

tel: 0141 572 0400)<br />

A warm and welcoming<br />

bar, hotel and restaurant<br />

in a refurbished<br />

Victorian building right<br />

in the middle of the<br />

Merchant City. Try<br />

the homemade<br />

broths – delicious.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Rogano<br />

(11 Exchange Place, tel:<br />

0141 248 4055) A local<br />

institution, Rogano<br />

has been providing<br />

fabulous service to its<br />

customers – including<br />

some A-list celebs –<br />

for decades. Feast<br />

on perfectly prepared<br />

fi sh and seafood.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Bar 91 (91<br />

Candleriggs, tel: 0141<br />

552 5211) A wee gem<br />

of a bar to chill out in<br />

amid the Merchant City,<br />

Bar 91 is small and<br />

cosy with a complete<br />

lack of pretension.<br />

There are great day<br />

and night menus if<br />

you’re feeling peckish.<br />

LIVE MUSIC Brel<br />

(39–43 Ashton Lane,<br />

tel: 0141 342 4966) Set<br />

within converted stables<br />

and a coach house in<br />

the West End, Brel off ers<br />

quality Belgian food and<br />

beer. There’s also a live<br />

jazz and acoustic music<br />

programme at weekends<br />

and on the occasional<br />

Thursday night.<br />

LATE & LIVELY The<br />

Stand Comedy Club<br />

(333 Woodlands Road,<br />

tel: 0844 335 8879)<br />

Open seven nights a<br />

week, The Stand has<br />

a varied programme<br />

of contemporary<br />

comedy featuring<br />

the best Scottish<br />

and international<br />

comedians. It’s a great<br />

night out, but book early.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Loch Lomond<br />

Shores is the gateway<br />

to Scotland’s fi rst<br />

National Park. It’s one<br />

of Scotland’s most<br />

spectacular visitor<br />

destinations, combining<br />

the beauty of the loch<br />

with fantastic leisure and<br />

shopping experiences.<br />

Here you’ll fi nd Jenners<br />

department store and an<br />

array of famous brands,<br />

including Ralph Lauren<br />

and Hugo Boss. You can<br />

MITCHELL<br />

LIBRARY<br />

SEE Aye Write! is<br />

Glasgow’s annual<br />

book festival, which<br />

takes place from<br />

4–12 March. The<br />

festival includes a<br />

mix of fi ction, poetry<br />

and prose, crime and<br />

debate (ayewrite.com).<br />

get to the area<br />

on bus services 204,<br />

205 and 215 from<br />

Glasgow city centre<br />

(Glassford Street), or<br />

by train from Queen<br />

Street Station.<br />

GO Fancy a fl utter?<br />

Shawfi eld Greyhound<br />

Stadium brings you<br />

the very best in racing<br />

and entertainment<br />

every Thursday, Friday<br />

and Saturday (doors<br />

open at 7pm). Other<br />

entertainment include<br />

the bars, a race-view<br />

restaurant, cafés and,<br />

of course, the<br />

lively bookmakers<br />

(Rutherglen Road, tel:<br />

0141 647 4121, shawfi eld<br />

greyhounds.com).<br />

ESCAPE Rabbie’s<br />

Trail Burners is a small,<br />

fi ve-star, multi-awardwinning<br />

tour company<br />

operating out of<br />

Glasgow. Rabbie’s off er<br />

a variety of one-day<br />

tours from Glasgow<br />

to various Scottish<br />

locations such as<br />

Loch Ness, Stirling and<br />

Oban (tel: 0131 226<br />

3133, rabbies.com).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The athletes’<br />

village for the 2014<br />

Commonwealth<br />

Games in Glasgow<br />

will feature<br />

accommodation and<br />

facilities for 6,500<br />

competitors and<br />

offi cials. Afterwards,<br />

it will become a new<br />

residential community,<br />

including 304 private<br />

homes, 400 homes<br />

for rent and a new<br />

120-bed care home<br />

for the elderly.<br />

Evelyn McKechnie<br />

Gibraltar - Mix business with pleasure<br />

Discover Gibraltar as your business venue, we can offer you a first class experience and facilities. 4* Rock Hotel is home to the<br />

Khaima an innovative, new concept of banqueting and conferencing in Gibraltar. A unique venue with an excellent ambience suitable<br />

for Corporate Events, Weddings, Conferences and Seminars. Blands Travel can arrange all your Transport needs, to find out more see:<br />

www.rockhotel.gi - www.blandgroup.com - infogib@blandgroup.com - conference-office@rockhotel.gi for further information.


Grenoble Graduate School of Business Productions present<br />

Accreditations<br />

Full-time/Part-time/Global Executive<br />

www.ggsb.com<br />

The AA’s highest rated hotel<br />

in Gibraltar. 79% Merit Score.<br />

Master of Business Administration<br />

Concept & Design : Philippe Tur, turphilippe@me.com - Illustration : Jérôme Guerry


140 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />

Gothenburg<br />

Sweden<br />

DIALLING CODE +46<br />

CURRENCY Krona (SEK)<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Berlin, London<br />

(LGW), Manchester<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com. A<br />

local taxi costs SEK320.<br />

Flygbussarna<br />

buses depart<br />

every 30 minutes to the<br />

centre from 4am–11pm.<br />

Tickets: SEK150 return.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Puta Madre (3<br />

Magasinsgatan, tel:<br />

031 711 8838) This new<br />

restaurant with a Latin<br />

American infl uence is<br />

currently on everybody’s<br />

lips. Try the beef-fi lled<br />

tortillas topped with<br />

tomatillo salsa and queso<br />

anejo (Mexican cheese).<br />

EXCLUSIVE Kometen<br />

(58 Vasagatan, tel: 031<br />

137 988) Established<br />

in 1934 as a housing<br />

experiment (the<br />

initiative failed), this<br />

building opened as a<br />

restaurant in 1938. The<br />

traditional Scandinavian<br />

menu has captured the<br />

hearts of the Swedish<br />

cultural elite.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Barsidan<br />

(7 Kungstorget, tel: 031<br />

139 290) This cosy bar<br />

has recently reopened.<br />

An extensive wine and<br />

Champagne list makes<br />

it the perfect place<br />

to start the evening.<br />

LATE & LIVELY Nivå<br />

(9 Kungsportsavenyn,<br />

tel: 031 701 8090) The<br />

latest tunes from the<br />

international club music<br />

scene played by worldrenowned<br />

DJs on several<br />

fl oors will keep you on<br />

your feet until 4.30am.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Filippa K is a<br />

Swedish brand defi ned<br />

by timeless simplicity<br />

and high-quality<br />

materials. Visit the shop<br />

in cosy Viktoriapassagen<br />

to update your<br />

spring wardrobe<br />

(14 Södra Larmgatan).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The fi rst Volvo car<br />

was manufactured in<br />

Gothenburg in 1927.<br />

Hedvig Andersson<br />

ART<br />

EXHIBITION<br />

SEE Destination X at<br />

Världskulturmuseet<br />

includes lots of<br />

great contemporary<br />

paintings, sketches,<br />

photographs and fi lms<br />

on the subject of travel<br />

(54 Södra Vägen,<br />

tel: 031 632 700).<br />

Gran Canaria<br />

Spain<br />

DIALLING CODE +34<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

London (LGW)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €35.<br />

Route 60 runs<br />

from 7am–11pm.<br />

Tickets: €2.50 (Parque<br />

Santa Catalina).<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Dedo<br />

De Dios (Carretera<br />

Puerto de Las Nieves,<br />

tel: 928 898 581) Head<br />

here for fresh fi sh,<br />

with good service and<br />

atmosphere. Try the<br />

fi sh soup or the gambas<br />

al ajillo – sizzling prawns<br />

baked in garlic oil and<br />

spices – washed<br />

down with a bottle<br />

of cheap local wine.<br />

EXCLUSIVE La<br />

Aquarela (Aquamarina,<br />

Patalavaca, tel: 928<br />

735 891) Aquarela is<br />

an exquisite restaurant<br />

in every way. Its menu<br />

recommendations<br />

include the rolls of<br />

roast beef stuff ed with<br />

foie gras royale, and<br />

the sautéed lobster<br />

noisette. The excellent<br />

food is complemented<br />

by the outstanding<br />

wine cellar and<br />

spectacular views.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Wigwam<br />

Cocktail Bar (21<br />

Apartamentos Porto<br />

Novo, tel: 928 561<br />

413) Sip a cocktail in<br />

this warm, friendly<br />

bar, with a Native<br />

American theme and<br />

soft laidback music.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Pacha (16 Avenida<br />

Tirajana) Part of the<br />

world-famous group,<br />

Pacha in Playa del<br />

Inglés off ers top tunes<br />

in a fun atmosphere.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Calle Principal<br />

(Main Street) in<br />

Agaete is the ideal<br />

place to pick up unusual<br />

hand-crafted gifts<br />

or delicious fresh<br />

fruit and veg. A small<br />

fi shing village in the<br />

north, with narrow<br />

cobbled streets and<br />

pretty little houses,<br />

Agaete is popular<br />

with artists for its<br />

dramatic landscape<br />

and tropical fruits.<br />

SEE Carnival in<br />

March sees the<br />

usually quiet village of<br />

Maspalomas erupt in<br />

an explosion of fun<br />

and colour. Dress up,<br />

take to the streets<br />

and dance until dawn.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The highest point on<br />

the island is Pozo de las<br />

Nieves, which stands<br />

1,949m above sea level.<br />

Jan Cooney/sunnews.es<br />

Sitting comfortably?<br />

Grenoble<br />

France<br />

DIALLING CODE +33<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Birmingham,<br />

Bristol, Liverpool,<br />

London (LGW, LTN, STN)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €80.<br />

Catch the Altitude<br />

line bus to the city<br />

centre. Tickets: €12.50.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 MC2: Le<br />

Bistrot (4 Rue Paul<br />

Claudel, tel: 04 7600<br />

7954) Polish off a piece<br />

of theatre with a light<br />

gourmet supper at the<br />

Maison de Culture’s<br />

refi ned restaurant.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Le Mas<br />

Bottero (168 Cours<br />

Berriat, tel: 04 7621<br />

9533) Don’t miss the<br />

chance to visit this<br />

new restaurant, where<br />

100-year-old wisteria<br />

adds a rustic edge to the<br />

modern décor. Grenobleborn<br />

chef Nicolas<br />

Bottero trained under<br />

Alain Ducasse, and now<br />

his foie gras with quince<br />

and carpaccio of locally<br />

farmed trout excels<br />

in its own right.<br />

advertising@ink-global.com | www.ink-global.com | Tel: +44 (0)20 7613 8796<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Crêperie<br />

Blanc-Fontaine (2 Rue<br />

Blanc-Fontaine, tel: 04<br />

7646 9727) Celebrate<br />

Mardi Gras this month<br />

with a pancake with a<br />

regional twist – crêpe<br />

tartifl ette washed down<br />

with local cider.<br />

LATE & LIVELY The<br />

Druid’s Pub (3 Rue<br />

Diodore Rahoult, tel: 04<br />

3837 0885) Grenoble’s<br />

most popular Irish bar is<br />

the only place to be on St<br />

Patrick’s Day this month.<br />

Expect live music and<br />

the obligatory Guinness!<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP The perfect oldfashioned<br />

sweetshop,<br />

L’Abeille d’Or is fi lled<br />

to the brim with more<br />

than 50 kinds of<br />

sweet, chocolate and<br />

gingerbread, as well<br />

as honey made with<br />

pine, acacia and<br />

mountain fl owers<br />

(3 Rue de Strasbourg).<br />

SEE Showing this<br />

month at the Gustave<br />

Eiff el-built contemporary<br />

art centre Le Magasin is<br />

Jean Pigozzi’s collection<br />

of contemporary African<br />

art juxtaposed with his<br />

recent aquisition of<br />

500 works by young<br />

Japanese artists<br />

(155 Cours Berriat,<br />

magasin-cnac.org).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

In the fi rst century AD<br />

Grenoble was a tiny<br />

garrison town called<br />

Cularo. In the third<br />

century, under the<br />

emperor Gratien, it<br />

became Gratianopolis,<br />

then fi nally Grenoble.<br />

Anya Pope<br />

Imagine over<br />

5 million people looking<br />

at your advert adver for a minimum of two hours.<br />

Make part p of your plan today<br />

150x28 (5 MILLION) 15.09.10.indd 1 16/02/<strong>2011</strong> 12:43<br />

TAXI


Hamburg<br />

Germany<br />

DIALLING CODE +49<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

Manchester, London<br />

(LGW, LTN)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €22.<br />

S1 S-Bahn trains<br />

run frequently<br />

until just after midnight.<br />

Tickets: €3.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Tassajara<br />

(4 Eppendorfer<br />

Landstrasse, tel: 040<br />

483 801) With its<br />

moreish salads and<br />

superb grilled produce,<br />

this vegetarian eatery<br />

has been at the vanguard<br />

of eco-foods since 1976.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Tiefenthal (77<br />

Isestrasse, tel: 040 4696<br />

1672) In the heart of<br />

moneyed Harvestehude,<br />

this long-time favourite<br />

serves modern German<br />

dishes with seasonally<br />

fresh ingredients to the<br />

city’s chic clique.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Juli (114<br />

Schulterblatt, tel:<br />

040 4321 4696) With<br />

its waffl ed walls and<br />

beguiling retro-inspired<br />

interiors, this raw-boned<br />

candlelit spot is perfect<br />

for pre-prandial drinks.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Grosse Freiheit 36 (36<br />

Grosse Freiheit, tel: 040<br />

3177 7811) Tucked down<br />

a side street in the heart<br />

of St Pauli, this intimate<br />

music hall features an<br />

endless rota of nightly<br />

acts, including some<br />

very convincing Beatles<br />

cover bands.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP A storehouse<br />

of superlative interior<br />

furnishings, on a<br />

cobbled street just<br />

steps from Hamburg’s<br />

Fischmarkt, Stilwerk is<br />

a one-stop multilevel<br />

shopping mall, home<br />

to big names such as<br />

Poliform-Studio, Offi cina<br />

Alessi and ligne roset,<br />

as well as elusive and<br />

über-exclusive outlets<br />

such as Tobias Grau, the<br />

famous German lighting<br />

maestro (stilwerk.de).<br />

GO Tucked into the<br />

undulate hillsides of<br />

Holsteinische Schweiz,<br />

an hour from Hamburg,<br />

Plön is an attractive,<br />

cobbled market town,<br />

complete with a<br />

turreted 17th-century<br />

chateau overlooking its<br />

crystalline lake.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The city’s 1,300seat<br />

Deutsches<br />

Schauspielhaus is one<br />

of Europe’s largest<br />

theatres and features<br />

busts of Goethe, Schiller,<br />

Lessing and Kleist.<br />

Farhad Heydari<br />

Helsinki<br />

Finland<br />

DIALLING CODE +358<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London (LGW),<br />

Manchester, Paris (CDG)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €30.<br />

Route 615 runs<br />

to Rautatientori.<br />

Tickets: €4.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Kynsilaukka Garlic (22<br />

Fredrikinkatu, tel: 09 651<br />

939) A very charismatic<br />

place, seasoned to local<br />

taste with a pinch of<br />

eccentricity, Kynsilaukka<br />

plays tribute to garlic in<br />

its every guise. Don’t look<br />

any further if you can’t<br />

live without garlic soup,<br />

snails, cocktails, etc.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Olo (44<br />

Kasarmikatu, tel: 09 665<br />

565) Nominated Finnish<br />

Restaurant of the year<br />

2009, Olo specialises<br />

in top-quality Nordic<br />

cuisine. Signature dishes<br />

made with the best<br />

seasonal ingredients<br />

are served alongside<br />

perfectly matched wines<br />

from one of the best<br />

cellars in the city.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Cella (15<br />

Fleminginkatu, tel: 09<br />

768 430) In bohemian<br />

Kallio – without a doubt<br />

the cheapest area in<br />

town – Cella is one of<br />

the oldest bars around.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Teatteri (2<br />

Pohjoisesplanadi) Part<br />

of a top-class complex,<br />

this nightclub is a wellknown<br />

spot for the local<br />

in-crowd. The parties<br />

here are fun, hedonistic<br />

and last all night.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Helsinki 10 is<br />

worth checking out if<br />

you’re after vintage<br />

items, rare vinyl records<br />

or the world’s coolest<br />

clothing brands<br />

(3 Eerikinkatu).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The text message,<br />

lactose-free dairy<br />

products and Linux<br />

computer operating<br />

system were all<br />

invented in Finland.<br />

Evgenia Ivanova<br />

RAILWAY<br />

SQUARE<br />

GO This lively square<br />

can provide you with a<br />

whole host of choices<br />

– whether you’re<br />

looking for somewhere<br />

to eat, to sleep or do<br />

fi rst-class shopping.<br />

the Kiasma museum<br />

is nearby, too.<br />

IF YOU FIND CHEAPER WE’LL REFUND<br />

DOUBLE THE DIFFERENCE * – GOOD LUCK!<br />

DESTINATION GUIDES | 141<br />

Hurghada<br />

Egypt<br />

DIALLING CODE +20<br />

CURRENCY EGP<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Geneva,<br />

London (LGW)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

The fare to Sakalla is<br />

EGP15, El Dahar EGP20,<br />

and further afi eld EGP25<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Granada<br />

Bistro (Sheraton Road,<br />

Hadaba, tel: 010 003<br />

3464) Awesome<br />

views, especially<br />

by day, with a wide<br />

selection of local and<br />

international dishes<br />

– try the fajitas – plus<br />

a full drinks list and<br />

never-ending shisha!<br />

EXCLUSIVE Al<br />

Dente (Continental<br />

Resort, Village Road,<br />

tel: 065 346 5110)<br />

Superb décor, tasteful<br />

design and great<br />

service all complement<br />

the delicious pasta<br />

and other delicacies<br />

at Al Dente. Be<br />

warned – don’t fi ll up<br />

on the bread baskets,<br />

but with so many<br />

varieties, you’ll need<br />

iron-strong willpower.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Da Capo<br />

(School Street, Hadaba)<br />

Now in its new home,<br />

this delightful café has<br />

decent coff ee, fresh<br />

juices, and hot and cold<br />

snacks. People-watch,<br />

make new friends and<br />

catch up with old ones.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Cacao Bar (El Dahar, in<br />

front of Three Corners<br />

Empire, tel: 012 618<br />

4861) As addictive as<br />

chocolate, Cacao Bar is<br />

open late every evening.<br />

It has drink discounts,<br />

too, to lure in the crowds<br />

and really friendly staff .<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Ram Stores<br />

has pure tourist tat and<br />

everything you could<br />

possibly want to buy as<br />

a souvenir all under one<br />

roof, with fi xed prices. It’s<br />

the perfect place to get<br />

those silly mementos or<br />

a special gift (Esplanada<br />

Mall, Village Road).<br />

SEE March is coral<br />

spawning month. For<br />

about fi ve nights after<br />

the full moon in March,<br />

the coral releases its<br />

reproductive spores into<br />

the sea, creating colours<br />

and formations not seen<br />

at any other time of year.<br />

A night dive or snorkel<br />

is a must for ecologists<br />

and coral enthusiasts.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The Khamsin is a hot<br />

southerly wind which<br />

blows in late winter to<br />

early summer. Its name,<br />

literally meaning “50”<br />

in Arabic, refers to the<br />

period in which the<br />

wind may blow.<br />

Denise Fletcher<br />

Europcar guarantees easyJet<br />

passengers great car rental deals.<br />

For your discounted price book<br />

at easyJet.com or visit the<br />

Europcar desk.<br />

* Terms & conditions apply.


142 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />

Innsbruck<br />

Austria<br />

DIALLING CODE +43<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Bristol, Liverpool,<br />

London (LGW)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €20.<br />

Bus F runs to<br />

the city every 15<br />

minutes. Tickets: €1.70.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 L’Osteria<br />

(13 Herzog-Friedrich-<br />

Strasse, tel: 0512 582<br />

400) Stop here to try<br />

the specialities of the<br />

diff erent Italian regions:<br />

swordfi sh carpaccio<br />

and grilled polenta<br />

strips with blue cheese<br />

and mushrooms are<br />

good choices.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Der<br />

Pavillon (4 Rennweg,<br />

tel: 0512 257 000)<br />

Duck breast on<br />

parsnip served with<br />

spinach and pine nut<br />

dumplings is just one<br />

of the chef’s delicious<br />

creations served at<br />

this restaurant. Go for<br />

the fried gorgonzola<br />

dessert, served<br />

with pear, nuts<br />

and vanilla sauce.<br />

DESERT<br />

ADVENTURES<br />

DISCOVER<br />

JORDAN’S<br />

WILD SIDE<br />

MARCH <strong>2011</strong><br />

*YOUR FREE COPY TO<br />

TAKE AWAY WITH YOU<br />

TRAVELLER<br />

EMPIRE<br />

OF THE SUN<br />

SPAIN’S SOLAR<br />

POWERED FUTURE<br />

GO LARGE IN<br />

GOTHENBURG<br />

A TASTE OF SWEDEN’S<br />

COFFEE CAPITAL<br />

ej_cover.indd 1 09/02/<strong>2011</strong> 11:03<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Capriccio<br />

(5 Museumstrasse,<br />

tel: 0512 561 776) This<br />

patisserie is an ideal<br />

place to have a piece of<br />

cake and warm up with<br />

a hot chocolate after<br />

sightseeing. The banana<br />

cake is a must.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Dejavu (8 Herzog Otto<br />

Strasse) Particularly<br />

lively during the skiing<br />

season, this R’n’B<br />

club attracts a mixed<br />

crowd from students<br />

to fortysomething<br />

entrepreneurs<br />

holidaying in the area.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP One of the<br />

traditional Tyrolean<br />

specialities is bacon<br />

– check out the little<br />

shop Speckladele and<br />

get some to bring back<br />

home. You won’t be<br />

able to resist the aroma<br />

once you’re there<br />

(4 Stiftgasse,<br />

tel: 0512 588 816).<br />

GO If you want to take<br />

a long walk but don’t<br />

want to go hiking in<br />

the mountains, head<br />

to Schloss Ambras.<br />

Situated on a hill above<br />

the city, the castle<br />

has gardens that are<br />

beautiful all year round<br />

(20 Schlosstrasse,<br />

tel: 0512 244 802).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The collection of<br />

musical instruments at<br />

the Kunsthistorisches<br />

Museum originally<br />

comes from Schloss<br />

Ambras and contains<br />

Girolamo de Virchi’s<br />

famous cittern.<br />

Jovana Urosevic<br />

Inverness<br />

UK<br />

DIALLING CODE +44<br />

CURRENCY £<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Bristol, London<br />

(LGW, LTN)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs £19.<br />

Jet buses run<br />

to Nairns and<br />

Inverness (thejet.co.uk).<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 The Red<br />

Pepper (74 Bow Court,<br />

Church Street, tel: 01463<br />

237 111) This awardwinning<br />

coff ee and<br />

sandwich house boasts<br />

scrumptious breakfast<br />

and lunch menus,<br />

including fi lled rolls and<br />

paninis, baked potatoes<br />

and sandwiches with<br />

tasty fi llings.<br />

EXCLUSIVE The<br />

Mustard Seed (16<br />

Fraser Street, tel:<br />

01463 220 220) Set in<br />

a former 19th-century<br />

church, this restaurant<br />

has a beautiful riverside<br />

location. It serves an<br />

extensive menu of<br />

delights, including fi llet<br />

of halibut baked with<br />

pancetta wrapped in<br />

puff pastry with thyme.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Bar One<br />

(1 Academy Street, tel:<br />

01463 714 471) Enjoy<br />

a cocktail at this classy<br />

venue in the heart of<br />

the city. The extensive<br />

drinks menu has many<br />

cocktails, and the varied<br />

wine list has something<br />

for everyone.<br />

LATE & LIVELY Hush<br />

(57 Academy Street,<br />

tel: 01463 248 819)<br />

Sit back and relax or<br />

dance the night away at<br />

Hush, the city’s premier<br />

nightclub. It boasts<br />

fantastic DJs playing<br />

a variety of music, and<br />

a well-stocked bar.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Mania is a small<br />

boutique in the city<br />

centre with a fantastic<br />

range of women’s and<br />

men’s clothing. With<br />

a massive choice of<br />

the latest brands such<br />

as G-Star, Gio Gio and<br />

Lipsy, there’s sure to<br />

be something that<br />

takes your fancy<br />

(9 Drummond Street).<br />

GO A family-run<br />

business since 1797,<br />

Johnstons of Elgin is<br />

well worth a visit.<br />

Enjoy the fascinating<br />

heritage centre and<br />

take a tour around the<br />

factory to discover the<br />

traditional techniques<br />

used to make its<br />

renowned cashmere<br />

pieces (Newmill, Elgin,<br />

tel: 01343 554 099).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Loch Ness contains<br />

more fresh water than<br />

all the lakes in England<br />

and Wales put together.<br />

Beverley Tricker<br />

Isle of Man<br />

UK<br />

DIALLING CODE +44<br />

CURRENCY £<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Liverpool<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs £19.<br />

Buses run every<br />

half an hour.<br />

Tickets: £2.30.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 14 North<br />

(14 North Quay)<br />

This contemporary,<br />

environmentally<br />

conscious eatery prides<br />

itself on its use of fresh<br />

Are you interested in advertising to<br />

5m passengers per month?<br />

Please contact our advertising sales team<br />

on 0044 (0) 207 613 8796<br />

local produce whenever<br />

possible. Order the<br />

queenies (scallops) off<br />

the menu made from<br />

recycled elephant dung.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Jurgens<br />

(Victory Court, Douglas,<br />

tel: 01624 660 557)<br />

Jurgens is a mecca for<br />

carnivores as it serves<br />

more than 20 diff erent<br />

types of meat. Exotic<br />

varieties, including<br />

ostrich, impala and<br />

bison, are its speciality,<br />

and animal prints<br />

dominate the décor.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY The Bridge<br />

(North Quay, Douglas,<br />

tel: 01624 675 268) Join<br />

the regulars enjoying an<br />

after-work pint in this<br />

laidback quayside pub.<br />

Its lunches are popular<br />

with local offi ce workers.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Amber (Chesterhouse<br />

Hotel, Douglas)<br />

Known for its live<br />

music at weekends,<br />

this basement bar<br />

showcases up-andcoming<br />

local bands.<br />

A DJ entertains till 1am.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Chocolates,<br />

candles, ceramics and<br />

skincare products are<br />

among the diverse<br />

range at MostlyManx,<br />

an artisan co-operative<br />

of local handicrafts (25<br />

Nelson Street, Douglas,<br />

mostlymanx.com).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The island has the<br />

longest narrow-gauge<br />

steam railway in British<br />

Isles. It runs 26km, from<br />

Douglas to Port Erin.<br />

Kate Youde<br />

00000 EasyJet Sales 5mil Banner.indd 1 10/02/<strong>2011</strong> 12:24<br />

TAXI<br />

MOSCOW<br />

STATE CIRCUS<br />

SEE Expect<br />

contortionists, clowns,<br />

and people catapulting<br />

across the stage with<br />

Legenda, a show<br />

themed around the<br />

dreams of Rasputin.<br />

From 1–3 March<br />

(Gaiety Theatre).


Istanbul<br />

Turkey<br />

DIALLING CODE +90<br />

CURRENCY Lira (TRY)<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

London (LGW, LTN)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs TRY35.<br />

E3 buses run<br />

hourly to Levent,<br />

where the metro goes to<br />

Taksim Square. Tickets:<br />

TRY4.50. Havas buses<br />

run to Taksim Square.<br />

Tickets: TRY12.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Salad<br />

Station (189b Istiklal<br />

Caddesi, Beyoglu, tel:<br />

0212 243 0127) Choose<br />

from the widest range of<br />

salads you’ve probably<br />

ever seen – 36 toppings,<br />

26 premium toppings<br />

and 14 vinagrettes.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Supper<br />

Club (65 Muallim Naci<br />

Caddesi, Ortakoy, tel:<br />

0212 261 1988) This is<br />

the Istanbul branch of<br />

an international chain<br />

of free-and-easy food<br />

and music venues.<br />

The exclusive clientèle,<br />

Bosphorus views and<br />

creative menu make<br />

for a heady experience.<br />

<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Balkon (5<br />

Sehbender Sokak) A topfl<br />

oor bar with fantastic<br />

views over the city from<br />

the terrace, where a DJ<br />

plays the latest tunes.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Salon (5 Sadi Konuralp<br />

Caddesi, Sishane) Hip<br />

new performance space<br />

off ering an eclectic<br />

programme of pop,<br />

classical and jazz acts.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP La Cave is<br />

Istanbul’s fi rst and bestknown<br />

dedicated wine<br />

store. It stocks wines<br />

from all over Turkey (109<br />

Sıraselviler Caddesi).<br />

SEE Chinese artist Yao<br />

Lu photographs rubbish<br />

piles and reworks the<br />

results to look like<br />

Chinese paintings.<br />

Catch the results at<br />

Istanbul Modern gallery.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Istanbul has 17,400<br />

taxis – one for every<br />

1.4km of road.<br />

David O’Byrne<br />

BARCELO<br />

SARAY<br />

★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />

A luxurious retreat in<br />

the heart of Istanbul’s<br />

historic centre. Relax<br />

in the plush and<br />

stylish surroundings.<br />

All inclusive. From<br />

€160, book at<br />

hotels.easyJet.com.<br />

Jersey<br />

UK<br />

DIALLING CODE +44<br />

CURRENCY £<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Liverpool<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs £16.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Halkett<br />

Pub & Eating House<br />

(Halkett Place, St Helier,<br />

tel: 01534 732 769)<br />

Recently refurbished,<br />

this busy town-centre<br />

restaurant, pub and<br />

disco serves wellprepared<br />

favourites<br />

such as American-style<br />

stack burger and<br />

battered fi sh and chips.<br />

There are 16 diff erent<br />

wines by the glass too.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Tassili<br />

(Esplanade, St Helier,<br />

tel: 01534 722 301)<br />

Part of the luxury Grand<br />

Jersey hotel, Tassili<br />

off ers an imaginative<br />

and luxurious menu.<br />

Even the ploughman’s<br />

at Tassili is no ordinary<br />

ploughman’s. Befi tting<br />

one of Jersey’s top<br />

restaurants, it includes<br />

bouton d’oc goat’s<br />

cheese, Jabugo ham,<br />

truffl ed quail’s egg,<br />

apple jelly and white<br />

balsamic mayonnaise.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY The Old<br />

Smuggler’s Inn (Le<br />

Mont du Ouaisne, St<br />

Brelade) Down a road<br />

leading to Ouaisne<br />

Beach, the inn is a<br />

favourite with real ale<br />

experts. The inn is said<br />

to have been created<br />

on the site of two 13thcentury<br />

cottages.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

La Cala (22 Beresford<br />

Street, St Helier) Open<br />

seven days a week,<br />

La Cala is a clubber’s<br />

favourite as well as an<br />

attractive restaurant<br />

and piano bar. There’s<br />

also a terrace for when<br />

the weather is fi ne.<br />

TAXI TAXI<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP St Helier’s<br />

historic Central Market<br />

receives the year’s fi rst<br />

crop of famous Jersey<br />

Royal potatoes this<br />

month. There are plenty<br />

of other vegetables,<br />

fruits, fi sh and fl owers<br />

on display too, as well<br />

as coff ee shops.<br />

SEE Top designers will<br />

be in Jersey from 7–13<br />

March for the annual<br />

Jersey Textile Showcase.<br />

There are workshops,<br />

talks and exhibitions<br />

around St Aubin (The<br />

Harbour Gallery, tel:<br />

01534 853 395).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The US state New<br />

Jersey was named after<br />

the Channel Island<br />

because a Jerseyman<br />

was given the land in<br />

the 17th century.<br />

Peter Body<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

DESTINATION GUIDES | 143<br />

Kos<br />

Greece<br />

DIALLING CODE +30<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London (LGW)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxis cost €35.<br />

There are three<br />

daily buses to Kos<br />

Town. Tickets: €3.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Pote tin<br />

Kyriaki (9 Peisandrou,<br />

Kos Old Town, tel: 22420<br />

48460) The town’s<br />

longest-running ouzerí<br />

off ers indoor seating<br />

and platters such as<br />

marathópita (fennel pie),<br />

kavourdisti (pork fry-up)<br />

and seafood, washed<br />

down by strong rakí.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Stadium<br />

(26 Vassileos Georgiou,<br />

tel: 22420 27880) An<br />

Italian-era seaside<br />

building now hosts<br />

Kos Town’s favourite<br />

chic, Mediterranean<br />

restaurant. Starters<br />

such as spicy chicken<br />

livers and manouri<br />

cheese and pinigouri<br />

salad are more creative<br />

than the grilled mains.<br />

Expect effi cient service<br />

and a wide wine list.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Aenaos<br />

(Platia Eleftherias)<br />

This little café, tucked<br />

into the base of the<br />

Defterdar Mosque,<br />

specialises in novelty<br />

hot chocolates, teas and<br />

coff ees, especially kafés<br />

sti hóvoli or Greek coff ee<br />

made over hot sand.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Fashion Club (2 Kanari<br />

Street, Dolphins Square)<br />

Going strong since the<br />

late 1980s, this huge<br />

venue converted from a<br />

former cinema gets<br />

a mixed crowd as well<br />

as the fashionistas<br />

predicted by its name.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP The Old Town<br />

is a great place to start<br />

your shopping. Meander<br />

around and you will<br />

fi nd all your holiday<br />

needs catered for, plus<br />

souvenirs and great<br />

local delicacies, such as<br />

honey. Most shops are<br />

open until 10pm, and<br />

after sundown there is<br />

a lovely atmosphere.<br />

GO Winter and spring<br />

are the best seafood<br />

seasons in Greece, owing<br />

to migratory patterns<br />

and fi shery laws. The<br />

fi shmongers will be fi lled<br />

with scaly fi sh, marinated<br />

ouzo seafood snacks<br />

such as limpets and the<br />

mysterious foúskes.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The middle of Kos is<br />

so low-lying that from<br />

Kálymnos island to<br />

the north, you can see<br />

straight across to the<br />

peak of Níssyros islet<br />

south of Kos.<br />

Marc Dubin


144 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />

Krakow<br />

Poland<br />

DIALLING CODE +48<br />

CURRENCY Zloty (PLN)<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Belfast (BFS),<br />

Bristol, Dortmund,<br />

Edinburgh, Liverpool,<br />

London (LGW),<br />

Paris (CDG)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com. A<br />

local taxi costs PLN80.<br />

Trains leave every<br />

30 minutes till<br />

12.15am. Tickets: PLN6.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Marchewka z<br />

Groszkiem (2 Ulica<br />

Mostowa, tel: 012 430<br />

0795) You’ll fi nd this<br />

restaurant by the snazzy<br />

new footbridge that links<br />

Kazimierz with Podgorze.<br />

Expect homely<br />

Polish classics with<br />

a dash of 1930s style.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Szara<br />

Restaurant (6 Rynek<br />

Glowny, tel: 012 421<br />

6669) Sweep someone<br />

off their feet at this<br />

glamorous venue right<br />

on the square. A gothic<br />

vault provides a romantic<br />

backdrop, while the<br />

service is professional<br />

but not stuff y.<br />

<br />

<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Café<br />

Rekawka (4A Ulica<br />

Brodzinskiego, tel: 012<br />

296 2002) Worthy of the<br />

tag “hidden gem”, this<br />

café is on the side of the<br />

new footbridge between<br />

Kazimierz and Podgorze.<br />

Comfy armchairs prop<br />

up literary types.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Lodz Kaliska (15 Ulica<br />

Florianska) This is<br />

a kitsch labyrinth that’s<br />

brimming with mockbaroque<br />

chaise longues<br />

and pictures of nudists.<br />

Popular with trendy<br />

twentysomethings.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP The recently<br />

restored Sukiennice<br />

(Cloth Hall), which<br />

straddles the square,<br />

has stall after stall selling<br />

local knick-knacks from<br />

hand-carved chess sets<br />

to woollen slippers.<br />

GO The Podgorze<br />

district has recently<br />

gained a gallery of<br />

contemporary art<br />

(MOCAK) and a<br />

museum chronicling the<br />

Nazi occupation, both<br />

on the site of the former<br />

Schindler factory. A<br />

cluster of hip bars has<br />

emerged nearby too.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Countless houses have<br />

whimsical sculptures –<br />

elephants, bells, lizards<br />

– over their entrances.<br />

Street numbers weren’t<br />

introduced to Krakow<br />

until the late 18th<br />

century, and these<br />

helped postmen<br />

fi nd their way.<br />

Nick Hodge/<br />

cracow-life.com<br />

Lamezia<br />

Italy<br />

DIALLING CODE +39<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Milan (MXP),<br />

Rome (FCO)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €20.<br />

Routes 4 and 5<br />

go to the centre.<br />

Tickets: €0.77.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Sabbia<br />

d’Oro (1 Via Piano<br />

delle Donne, Belvedere<br />

Marittimo, tel: 0985<br />

88456) Sabbia d’Oro,<br />

between Diamante and<br />

Belvedere Marittimo,<br />

is known for its spicy<br />

infusion of traditional<br />

seafood dishes. If it’s<br />

available, try the peppercrusted<br />

swordfi sh.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Pimm’s (14 Largo<br />

Migliarese, Tropea)<br />

Consistently rated one<br />

of the best restaurants<br />

in Calabria, Pimm’s is an<br />

underground venue in<br />

Tropea’s historical centre<br />

that serves innovative<br />

seafood dishes<br />

such as sea urchin,<br />

smoked swordfi sh<br />

and stuff ed squid.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Le Volpi e<br />

L’ Uva (11 Via Garibaldi,<br />

Tropea, tel: 0963<br />

61900) Le Volpi e L’ Uva<br />

is a trendy wine bar in<br />

Tropea with friendly<br />

staff . It serves generous<br />

seafood antipasto<br />

dishes alongside good<br />

local wine.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Atmosfera (18 Via<br />

Donnici, Roccelletta<br />

di Borgia, tel: 0961<br />

955 150) Near the<br />

Scolacium ruins in<br />

Catanzaro, you’ll fi nd<br />

one of Calabria’s rare<br />

year-round clubs.<br />

Locals head here every<br />

weekend to meet up<br />

and have a drink with<br />

their friends.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Visit<br />

Casamaierà near<br />

Diamante for<br />

locally made liquor,<br />

marmalade and other<br />

Calabrese specialities.<br />

If you call in advance,<br />

you can tour the factory<br />

(80 Via Arieste, Maierà,<br />

tel: 0985 889 300).<br />

SEE If you’re near<br />

Civita in the Pollino<br />

Massif, stop by Museo<br />

Etnico Arbëresh (Ethnic<br />

Museum of Albanian<br />

Culture) for an insight<br />

into Calabria’s ancient<br />

Albanian history.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

According to legend,<br />

Scilla near Reggio<br />

Calabria was home<br />

to the mythological<br />

sea monster Scylla,<br />

made famous in<br />

Homer’s Odyssey.<br />

Cherrye Moore/<br />

my-bellavita.com<br />

Lanzarote<br />

Spain<br />

DIALLING CODE +34<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Liverpool, London<br />

(LGW), Madrid<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €12.<br />

Buses 22 and 23<br />

stop at Playa del<br />

Reducto and Arrecife,<br />

from 7am–10.25pm.<br />

Tickets: €1.15.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Sakura<br />

(106 Calle José Antonio<br />

Primo de Rivera, Arrecife,<br />

BOCAYNA<br />

STRAIT<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Lanzarote and<br />

Fuerteventura are part<br />

of the same geological<br />

structure and were<br />

a single island during<br />

the last Ice Age. Today,<br />

they’re separated<br />

by just 10km of water.<br />

tel: 928 597 638) This<br />

Japanese restaurant’s<br />

all-you-can-eat conveyor-<br />

belt menu off ers superb<br />

value for money at just<br />

€15 for dinner.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Quintins<br />

Restaurante (25G<br />

Avenida Juan Carlos I,<br />

tel: 928 515 755)<br />

Chef Finn O’Sullivan<br />

off ers superb modern<br />

European cuisine at his<br />

well-established eatery<br />

in Puerto del Carmén.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY One Bar<br />

(Marina Rubicón, Playa<br />

Blanca, tel: 928 349 930)<br />

One Bar is the perfect<br />

place to watch the sun<br />

go down while enjoying a<br />

beer or cocktail.<br />

LATE & LIVELY Aché<br />

Bar (Centro Atlántico,<br />

Puerto del Carmen)<br />

Dance the night away to<br />

salsa at this late-night<br />

bar. It doesn’t get<br />

busy until very late,<br />

so pace yourself.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP For some<br />

authentic Lanzarote<br />

surf wear, head to Santa<br />

– a local surfboard<br />

manufacturer and<br />

clothing brand. This<br />

outlet is in Playa Blanca<br />

(123 Calle Limones).<br />

SEE Carnival falls at<br />

the beginning of the<br />

month but the party<br />

goes on throughout<br />

March. Puerto del<br />

Carmén celebrates its<br />

carnival from 10–12<br />

March. Costa Teguise<br />

closes the festivities<br />

with its carnival, which<br />

climaxes on 27 March.<br />

Ashley Wootton/<br />

DiscoverLanzarote.com


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Leeds<br />

Bradford UK<br />

DIALLING CODE +44<br />

CURRENCY £<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Geneva<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs £20.<br />

Buses leave every<br />

30 minutes to both<br />

cities. Tickets: £2.50.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet off ers.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Art’s Cafe<br />

Bar (42 Call Lane, tel:<br />

0113 243 8243) This<br />

bar-bistro is a popular<br />

spot with the young<br />

professional crowd. Make<br />

sure you try the Yorkshire<br />

plate for a true taste<br />

of the area, including<br />

Wensleydale cheese.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Vennell’s<br />

Restaurant (7 Silver<br />

Street, Masham, Ripon,<br />

tel: 01765 689 000)<br />

With two AA rosettes<br />

and mentions in the<br />

Good Food Guide, this<br />

is one restaurant to<br />

book in advance. Head<br />

chef Jon Vennell learnt<br />

his trade in the city’s<br />

top hotel restaurants.<br />

In 2005 he opened his<br />

own establishment,<br />

determined to serve<br />

fresh local produce<br />

handled with care and<br />

served sympathetically.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY The<br />

Cuthbert Brodrick<br />

(99 Portland Crescent,<br />

tel: 0113 204 8570) Not<br />

your usual chain bar,<br />

The Cuthbert Brodrick<br />

takes its name from the<br />

architect who designed<br />

Leeds Town Hall and<br />

the Corn Exchange.<br />

This bar serves great<br />

drinks, and you’ll fi nd<br />

a vibrant atmosphere.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Nation of Shopkeepers<br />

(27–37 Cookridge Street,<br />

tel: 0113 203 1831)<br />

Imported beers and<br />

real ales complement<br />

DJs and live bands once<br />

the sun sets. Nation of<br />

Shopkeepers is defi nitely<br />

the place to see urban<br />

hipsters and the indie set.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Aspecto is a<br />

menswear shop located<br />

in the city centre. Very<br />

friendly staff help<br />

you choose between<br />

diff erent brand names<br />

(1 Queen Victoria Street,<br />

aspecto.co.uk).<br />

GO The Hepworth<br />

Gallery will hold<br />

a collection of 40<br />

sculptures by local artist<br />

Barbara Hepworth,<br />

alongside works by<br />

international artists<br />

(hepworthwakefi eld.org).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

About a third of all UK<br />

internet traffi c is hosted<br />

in Leeds, with more<br />

ISDN lines per head of<br />

population than any<br />

other city in the world.<br />

Gina Davies<br />

Lisbon<br />

Portugal<br />

DIALLING CODE +351<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Barcelona,<br />

Basel-Mulhouse, Berlin,<br />

Bristol, Edinburgh,<br />

Geneva, Liverpool,<br />

London (LGW, LTN),<br />

Lyon, Madeira, Madrid,<br />

Milan (MXP), Paris<br />

(CDG), Rome (FCO),<br />

Toulouse<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Worldwide Relocation<br />

Fine Art & Antiques Shipping<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €20.<br />

The Aerobus<br />

leaves every 20<br />

minutes. Tickets: €3.50.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 Cantina<br />

Lx Factory (103<br />

Rua Rodrigues Faria,<br />

Alcântara, tel: 21<br />

314 3399) Scarcely<br />

renovated, this old<br />

workshop in the creative<br />

Lx Factory area has a<br />

limited menu – it is, after<br />

all, a canteen – but it<br />

does good, cheap food in<br />

an amazing space. Much<br />

of the cuisine comes out<br />

from the huge oven in<br />

the centre of the room.<br />

UP TO €30 Passage<br />

to India (45 Avenida<br />

Praia da Vitória, tel: 21<br />

354 4073) Something<br />

of an oasis in an area<br />

that is gastronomically<br />

unpromising, this is a<br />

classy joint with cool<br />

décor and sophisticated<br />

service. It has a popular<br />

lunchtime buff et.<br />

Passage to India also<br />

has an extensive<br />

á la carte menu and<br />

decent wine list.<br />

UP TO €50<br />

Pap’Açorda (57–59 Rua<br />

da Atalaia, tel: 21 346<br />

4811) Right in the heart<br />

of Bairro Alto, this is the<br />

place to fi nd a bit of glam<br />

and glitz. The cuisine is<br />

a contemporary take on<br />

Portuguese classics.<br />

Be sure to book.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Restaurant Flores<br />

(Hotel de Bairro Alto,<br />

2 Praça Luís de<br />

Camões, tel: 21 340<br />

8252) A hotel restaurant<br />

bang in the centre of<br />

things that’s far more<br />

stylish than most and<br />

boasts an adventurous<br />

menu with variations<br />

on Portuguese and<br />

Mediterranean staples.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Botequim<br />

(79 Largo da Graça,<br />

tel: 21 888 8511) A<br />

legendary hang-out of<br />

artists and intellectuals,<br />

this small bar has<br />

recently reopened<br />

with food, drinks and<br />

a programme of music<br />

and poetry readings.<br />

LIVE MUSIC Casino<br />

Lisboa Arena Lounge<br />

(Alameda dos Oceanos,<br />

tel: 21 892 9000)<br />

This sparkling, glitzy,<br />

glamorous casino off ers<br />

some free treats too.<br />

The Arena Lounge has<br />

DESTINATION GUIDES | 147<br />

free concerts most<br />

nights starting at 9pm,<br />

mostly – but not always<br />

– featuring jazz.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Jamaica (6 Rua Nova do<br />

Carvalho, Cais de Sodre,<br />

tel: 21 342 1859) One of<br />

the old waterfront joints,<br />

once popular<br />

with seamen, Jamaica<br />

retains a whiff of its<br />

raffi sh past, but it’s<br />

now one of the best<br />

places to listen to<br />

reggae music in the city.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP A Outra Face da<br />

Lua continues to be the<br />

best downtown outlet<br />

for vintage clothes and<br />

other artefacts. It also<br />

boasts a pleasant café<br />

with tables outside. Just<br />

around the corner is an<br />

overspill warehouse with<br />

many cheaper treats for<br />

the less-discerning buyer<br />

(22 Rua da Assunção).<br />

SEE The New York<br />

gypsy-punk combo<br />

Gogol Bordello will be<br />

at the Campo Pequeno<br />

bullring on 7 March<br />

EUROSTARS<br />

DAS LETRAS<br />

★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />

This little taste of<br />

Lisbon luxury off ers<br />

a unique stay with a<br />

literary theme. Each<br />

room is dedicated to<br />

a celebrated writer.<br />

From €89, book at<br />

hotels.easyJet.com.<br />

(campopequeno.com);<br />

Joan Wasser in her<br />

challenging guise of<br />

Joan as Policewoman<br />

will be at the Lisbon<br />

Casino on 13 March<br />

(casino-lisboa.pt), and<br />

on 20 March thousands<br />

will be running in the<br />

huge Lisbon halfmarathon(lisbonhalf-marathon.com).<br />

GO The Principe Real<br />

garden is one of the hubs<br />

of fashionable Lisbon<br />

life, and the surrounding<br />

streets and squares<br />

have lots to off er the<br />

casual stroller. As well<br />

as a host of classy<br />

bars, restaurants and<br />

designer shops, there’s<br />

also the stupendous and<br />

neglected delight of the<br />

botanical garden and<br />

the Patriarchal Reservoir,<br />

which has an entrance<br />

in the garden itself.<br />

ESCAPE Setúbal,<br />

Portugal’s third city, is<br />

under an hour from the<br />

capital. It may not be the<br />

most beautiful of cities,<br />

but it’s well situated and<br />

has plenty of attractions,<br />

including the Troia<br />

peninsula just a ferry<br />

ride away and the lovely<br />

Arrábida hills to the west.<br />

In the city itself, the only<br />

notable monument is the<br />

Manueline Monastery of<br />

Jesus, with its incredible<br />

twisted columns.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The queen of pastelarias<br />

(cake shops) has to be<br />

Fábrica de Pastéis de<br />

Nata in Belém, which<br />

has been turning out<br />

thousands of delectable<br />

little custard tarts every<br />

day since 1837.<br />

Jonathan Weightman<br />

We have been moving across Europe and The World for 40 years.<br />

Trust us to get that Renoir safely back or to move your furniture to<br />

your new home. Just call us for a chat and to discuss what we can<br />

do to help you...<br />

+44 (0)20 8832 2222<br />

E: stephen@shipsms.co.uk www.shipsms.co.uk


148 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />

Liverpool<br />

UK<br />

DIALLING CODE +44<br />

CURRENCY £<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Alicante,<br />

Amsterdam, Barcelona,<br />

Belfast (BFS), Berlin,<br />

Bodrum, Bordeaux,<br />

Brussels, Faro,<br />

Fuerteventura, Geneva,<br />

Gibraltar, Grenoble,<br />

Ibiza, Innsbruck, Isle of<br />

Man, Jersey, Krakow,<br />

Lanzarote, Lisbon, Lyon,<br />

Madrid, Majorca, Málaga,<br />

Malta, Menorca, Naples,<br />

Nice, Paris (CDG),<br />

Rhodes, Salzburg, Tallinn<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs £15.<br />

The 500 departs<br />

every 30 minutes<br />

for the city centre.<br />

Tickets: £2.60.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15<br />

Mangetout (21–23<br />

Old Hall Street, tel:<br />

0151 227 4878) In an<br />

area fast becoming the<br />

city’s commercial hub,<br />

Mangetout is an ideal<br />

refuelling point, with<br />

porridge for breakfast<br />

and sandwiches,<br />

soups and hot food for<br />

lunch. Daytime only.<br />

23 - 27 March<br />

35 stands of Art,<br />

Silver, Glass,<br />

Porcelain,<br />

Furniture,<br />

Jewellery etc<br />

Wednesday 2-8<br />

Thurs-Sat 11-6<br />

Sunday 11-5<br />

UP TO €30 Lunya<br />

(18–20 College Lane, tel:<br />

0151 706 9770) Set in a<br />

converted 18th-century<br />

warehouse in Liverpool<br />

One, Lunya sources<br />

fi ne artisan Spanish<br />

ingredients, fusing food<br />

from Catalonia and the<br />

north west of England<br />

to produce tapas such<br />

as Iberico ham and leek<br />

croquetas with Lake<br />

District pickle.<br />

UP TO €50 Da Piero<br />

(5 Mill Hill Road, Irby,<br />

Wirral, tel: 0151 648<br />

7373) The Michelin<br />

Guide speaks well of<br />

this homely, family-run<br />

business. Italian<br />

chef-proprietor Piero di<br />

Bella pours all his Latin<br />

passion into the food,<br />

with emphasis on Sicilian<br />

country cooking. It’s half<br />

an hour from Liverpool,<br />

but you’re unlikely<br />

to be disappointed.<br />

EXCLUSIVE The<br />

Exchange (3 Thomas<br />

Steers Way, tel: 0151 708<br />

4200) Seasonal and<br />

local cuisine is a priority<br />

at one of the newest<br />

branches of the Hilton<br />

hotel chain, overlooking<br />

the historic Albert Dock.<br />

Try braised and roasted<br />

Pennine venison with<br />

mulled pear.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY The Beer<br />

House (Contemporary<br />

Urban Centre, 41–51<br />

Greenland Street) Close<br />

to the docks, the bar<br />

of this charity-run arts<br />

centre has a welcoming,<br />

lived-in atmosphere plus,<br />

an excellent selection<br />

of world beers and bar<br />

food. Profi ts help the<br />

socially disadvantaged.<br />

LIVE MUSIC The<br />

Zanzibar Club (43 Seel<br />

Street) The Zanzibar<br />

Club’s customers lend<br />

this small independent<br />

venue with an easy-going<br />

ambience. An intimate<br />

environment for<br />

watching live gigs from<br />

both established and upand-coming<br />

bands.<br />

LATE & LIVELY The<br />

Magnet (45 Hardman<br />

Street, tel: 0151 709<br />

7560) Close to the<br />

city’s cultural quarter,<br />

the instinctive cool<br />

generated by The<br />

Magnet attracts the art<br />

crowd. Repose in velvetladen<br />

booths upstairs,<br />

or join the dancing<br />

and DJs downstairs.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Aside from<br />

continental produce,<br />

Delifonseca stocks<br />

a wide range of British<br />

foodstuff s, such as prizewinning<br />

local bacon<br />

and Stinking Bishop<br />

cheese. Both branches<br />

feature award-winning<br />

sandwiches to take<br />

HEYWOOD<br />

HOUSE HOTEL<br />

★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />

This elegant hotel<br />

blends old with new,<br />

having once been the<br />

fi rst bank in the city,<br />

now providing a chic<br />

place to stay. From<br />

€78, book at hotels.<br />

easyJet.com.<br />

away and restaurants<br />

attracting rave reviews<br />

(12 Stanley Street).<br />

SEE The neo-classical<br />

Walker Art Gallery<br />

hosts an exhibition<br />

throughout the month<br />

featuring 60 stunning<br />

paintings spanning fi ve<br />

centuries and normally<br />

unseen in public. Works<br />

by Old Masters Rubens,<br />

El Greco and Delacroix<br />

are featured alongside<br />

those by impressionists<br />

Pissaro and Sisley<br />

(William Brown Street).<br />

GO Few manage to walk<br />

the length of Lark Lane<br />

without stopping at<br />

one of the myriad bars,<br />

restaurants and quirky<br />

independent shops<br />

inhabiting this attractive<br />

slice of south Liverpool,<br />

10 minutes by cab from<br />

the city centre. At one<br />

end is Sefton Park,<br />

which has undergone<br />

a multi-million<br />

pound regeneration.<br />

ESCAPE More than<br />

eight million visitors<br />

head for the rugged<br />

peaks and tranquil lakes<br />

of Cumbria every year.<br />

Created in the Ice Age,<br />

the Lake District is one of<br />

the UK’s most beautiful<br />

regions, with England’s<br />

highest mountain and<br />

deepest lake. Reach the<br />

southern slopes in under<br />

two hours from the city.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The Royal Liverpool<br />

Philharmonic<br />

Orchestra was the fi rst<br />

to play underwater<br />

– performing below<br />

the River Mersey to<br />

celebrate the road<br />

tunnel’s 60th birthday.<br />

Gerry Corner<br />

Both events in<br />

Chelsea Old Town Hall,<br />

Kings Road, SW3 5EE<br />

Mention “Traveller” for<br />

Complimentary Entry<br />

Ljubljana<br />

Slovenia<br />

DIALLING CODE +386<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London (STN),<br />

Paris (CDG)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €45.<br />

Buses leave every<br />

hour till 8pm.<br />

Tickets: €4.10.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Joe<br />

Pena’s Cantina y<br />

Bar (6 Cankarjeva,<br />

tel: 01 421 5800) For<br />

a Mexican vibe, make<br />

a beeline for this fun<br />

cantina. Enjoy cool<br />

cocktails and<br />

all manner of wraps<br />

and spicy sauces.<br />

EXCLUSIVE River<br />

House (31 Gallusovo<br />

Nabrezje, tel: 01 425<br />

4090) Recline by the<br />

river in the Old Town<br />

and enjoy a glass of<br />

excellent Slovenian<br />

wine as you savour<br />

pasta laced with<br />

Istrian truffl es or white<br />

fi sh freshly plucked<br />

from the Adriatic at<br />

one of the trendiest<br />

of the city’s more<br />

expensive restaurants.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Salon<br />

(23 Trubarjeva) Not as<br />

trendy as it once was,<br />

which makes this Old<br />

Town option is a great<br />

bolthole for a creamy hot<br />

chocolate or something<br />

with a bit more of an<br />

alcoholic hit as you kick<br />

off the evening.<br />

LATE & LIVELY Ultra<br />

Club (6 Nazorjeva)<br />

This is where the locals<br />

come to dance to<br />

happy house and trance<br />

sounds. Some decent<br />

local DJs and an upfor-it<br />

vibe help get<br />

the party started.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Midas is a<br />

fashion treasure-trove<br />

off ering great bargains<br />

for those looking to burn<br />

their euros. It describes<br />

itself as a “multidesigner<br />

store”. If you want to<br />

dress to impress for<br />

a night out, this is the<br />

place to stock up (3<br />

Ajdovsina, tel: 01 300<br />

4600, midas.si).<br />

GO Break south of<br />

the centre and enter<br />

another world, where<br />

old ladies tend their<br />

allotments and the river<br />

idles lazily by in Krakovo.<br />

There are some decent<br />

eating options here too.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Slovenia has its very<br />

own tragic romantic<br />

poet. When not penning<br />

evocative words, Francè<br />

Preseren was wrapped in<br />

the passions and torture<br />

of unrequited love, as<br />

his dramatic statue on<br />

the city’s main square<br />

demonstrates.<br />

robinmckelvie.com<br />

1 - 3 April<br />

35 Galleries of<br />

Contemporary &<br />

Modern Paintings<br />

& Sculptures.<br />

Friday 11-8,<br />

Saturday 11-7,<br />

Sunday 11-6.


Main Sponsor: Media Partner: PRICE GUARANTEE<br />

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150 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />

London<br />

UK<br />

DIALLING CODE +44<br />

CURRENCY £<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Aberdeen, Agadir,<br />

Alicante, Almería,<br />

Amman, Amsterdam,<br />

Antalya, Asturias,<br />

Athens, Barcelona,<br />

Basel-Mulhouse, Bastia<br />

(Corsica), Berlin, Belfast<br />

(BHD, BFS), Biarritz,<br />

Bilbao, Bodrum, Bologna,<br />

Bordeaux, Budapest,<br />

Cagliari (Sardinia),<br />

Cologne/Bonn,<br />

Copenhagen, Corfu,<br />

Corsica (Ajaccio), Corsica<br />

(Bastia), Crete (Chania),<br />

Crete (Heraklion), Cyprus<br />

(Larnaca), Cyprus<br />

(Paphos), Dalaman,<br />

Dortmund, Dubrovnik,<br />

Düsseldorf, Edinburgh,<br />

Faro, Fuerteventura,<br />

Geneva, Gibraltar,<br />

Glasgow, Gothenburg,<br />

Gran Canaria, Grenoble,<br />

Hamburg, Helsinki,<br />

Hurghada, Ibiza,<br />

Innsbruck, Istanbul,<br />

Inverness, Izmir, Kos,<br />

Krakow, Lanzarote,<br />

La Rochelle, Lisbon,<br />

Ljubljana, Luxor, Lyon,<br />

Madeira, Madrid,<br />

Majorca, Málaga, Malta,<br />

Marrakech, Marseille,<br />

Menorca, Milan (MXP,<br />

LIN), Montpellier, Munich,<br />

Murcia, Mykonos, Nantes,<br />

Naples, Nice, Newcastle,<br />

Olbia, Palermo, Paris<br />

(CDG), Pisa, Porto,<br />

Prague, Rhodes, Rome<br />

(FCO), Salzburg,<br />

Santorini, Seville,<br />

Sharm El Sheikh, Sofi a,<br />

Split, Tallinn, Tel Aviv,<br />

Tenerife, Thessaloniki,<br />

Toulouse, Turin, Valencia,<br />

Venice, Verona, Vienna,<br />

Zagreb, Zante, Zürich<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

LUTON<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com<br />

A local taxi costs £100<br />

to central London.<br />

National Express<br />

tickets can be<br />

bought onboard.<br />

Tickets: £14 single; £19<br />

return. Ask your cabin<br />

crew for details.<br />

Trains from Luton<br />

Airport Parkway go<br />

to London St Pancras.<br />

Tickets: £12 single<br />

(fi rstcapital<br />

connect.co.uk).<br />

GATWICK<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com<br />

A local taxi costs £100.<br />

The Gatwick<br />

Express to London<br />

Victoria runs every<br />

15 minutes from<br />

4.35am–1.35am.<br />

Exclusive easyJet<br />

discounted fares<br />

available when you buy<br />

onboard. Ask your cabin<br />

crew for details.<br />

STANSTED<br />

TAXI<br />

A local taxi costs<br />

£120 to London.<br />

National Express<br />

runs a bus service<br />

to London Victoria.<br />

Tickets: £17 return.<br />

The Stansted<br />

Express runs<br />

every 15–30 minutes<br />

until 00.30am. Exclusive<br />

easyJet discounted<br />

fares available when you<br />

love noodles?<br />

love wagamama<br />

28 london locations | wagamama.com<br />

buy onboard. Ask your<br />

cabin crew for details.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 Chop’d<br />

(2 Horner Square, E1)<br />

This bright and buzzy<br />

gourmet salad stop<br />

is an inspirational<br />

lunch choice for those<br />

tired of standard<br />

sandwiches and limp<br />

lettuce leaves. Chop’d<br />

serves up healthy,<br />

fl avoursome salads – to<br />

your specifi cations.<br />

You can create your<br />

own salad from a vast<br />

selection of ingredients<br />

or pick up a pre-made<br />

option – anything from<br />

jerk chicken to virtuous<br />

superfood or smoked<br />

mackerel kedgeree.<br />

Choose from more than<br />

15 diff erent dressings to<br />

complete your lunch. Oh,<br />

and if you aren’t in the<br />

mood for a salad, there’s<br />

a delicious selection<br />

of sushi, soup, and<br />

nutritious wraps too.<br />

UP TO €30 Franco<br />

Manca (4 Market Row,<br />

SW9, tel: 020 7738<br />

3021) This cheap and<br />

cheerful restaurant in<br />

Brixton Market was<br />

considered a bit of a<br />

culinary secret among<br />

south London foodies<br />

until recently, but now<br />

folk from all across the<br />

capital – and beyond<br />

– make their own pizza<br />

pilgrimage to see what<br />

all the fuss is about. This<br />

small pizzeria’s winning<br />

formula is a combination<br />

of a light yet crisp<br />

sourdough base –<br />

prepared 20 hours<br />

before – and the giant,<br />

traditional woodfi red<br />

oven brought in from<br />

download<br />

our iphone e<br />

app to find d<br />

your nearest est st t t t<br />

restaurant nt<br />

positive eating + positive living<br />

kids<br />

welcome!<br />

the home of this doughy<br />

dish, Naples. The menu<br />

might only feature six<br />

types of pizza (starting<br />

at £6 each), but trust<br />

us, you won’t be<br />

disappointed.<br />

UP TO €50 Balans<br />

(60–62 Old Compton<br />

Street, W1D, tel: 020<br />

7439 2183) Right in the<br />

heart of the West End,<br />

on Old Compton Street,<br />

is Balans – a Soho<br />

institution. An excellent<br />

option for a pre- or<br />

post-theatre meal<br />

thanks to its proximity<br />

to Theatreland, its<br />

modern brasseriestyle<br />

menu caters to<br />

all appetites. Dishes<br />

such as seared scallops<br />

with pork belly and<br />

orange sweet soy<br />

glaze is a great place<br />

to start, and satisfying<br />

mains include a<br />

fragrant Thai curry<br />

and the sizable Balans<br />

10oz burger with<br />

hand-cut chips.<br />

For dessert, try the<br />

wickedly decadent<br />

Oreo key lime pie.<br />

NORFOLK<br />

TOWERS<br />

★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />

Norfolk Towers is an<br />

excellent choice, close<br />

to Madame Tussauds,<br />

Regent’s Park and the<br />

West End. Breakfast<br />

included. From<br />

€78, book at hotels.<br />

easyJet.com.<br />

Bar Battu (48 Gresham<br />

Street, EC2, tel: 020<br />

7036 6100) Tucked<br />

away in a corner street<br />

in the City is this<br />

exceptional French<br />

wine bar-turned-fab<br />

restaurant. But what’s<br />

so exciting about<br />

an establishment<br />

championing vin de<br />

France? Well, Bar Battu<br />

is the Square Mile’s<br />

fi rst natural wine bar,<br />

selling superb organic<br />

and biodiverse wines.<br />

For those of us who<br />

don’t know much about<br />

natural wines, the bar’s<br />

extensive wine list has<br />

a breakdown at the<br />

beginning explaining<br />

the diff erence between<br />

the biodiverse, cloudy,<br />

organic, wild and clear<br />

wines sold by the glass<br />

and bottle. Once you’ve<br />

ordered your wine,<br />

tackle the food menu<br />

with its fi ne French fare.<br />

The crab with celeriac<br />

is the star of the small,<br />

tapas-like plates, and<br />

you can’t go far wrong<br />

with the bavette steak<br />

and bone marrow –<br />

perfectly complemented<br />

with a robust glass of<br />

organic red, of course.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Brasserie Joël (1st<br />

Floor, Park Plaza<br />

Westminster Bridge,<br />

SE1, tel: 020 7620<br />

7272) The Park Plaza<br />

Westminster Bridge<br />

exudes the cool,<br />

anonymous glow of<br />

the international hotel<br />

chain, so it’s a surprise<br />

to fi nd French chef<br />

Joël Antunes running<br />

an excellent brasserie<br />

from its moodily lit<br />

interior. Every dish is<br />

full of fl air, from the<br />

crisp, sweet beetroot<br />

salad to the porcini<br />

risotto that reminds<br />

you what risotto is<br />

supposed to taste like.<br />

Delicious and for<br />

the most part<br />

reasonably priced,<br />

it’s well worth a visit.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Gordon’s<br />

Wine Bar (47 Villiers<br />

Street, WC2N, tel: 020<br />

7930 1408) It might not<br />

look like much from the<br />

outside, but Gordon’s<br />

has plenty of character.<br />

This tatty-but-cool<br />

space dates back to<br />

the 1680s, making it<br />

the city’s oldest wine<br />

bar – and hundreds of<br />

years later, it’s still one<br />

of the best places in<br />

London to enjoy a glass<br />

of wine, sherry or port in<br />

candlelit, subterranean<br />

surroundings.<br />

LIVE MUSIC<br />

The Boogaloo (312<br />

Archway Road, N6, tel:<br />

020 8340 2928) Set in<br />

leafy Highgate, The<br />

Boogaloo is considered<br />

one of north London’s<br />

hippest music hangouts<br />

–Time Out has even<br />

hailed it “London’s<br />

greatest rock club”.<br />

Rumoured fans include<br />

Pete Doherty and Noel<br />

Gallagher, so who<br />

knows, go along and<br />

you might even end<br />

up rubbing shoulders<br />

with rock royalty while<br />

swaying to the live,<br />

heavy beats.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

The Dogstar (389<br />

Coldharbour Lane,<br />

SW9, tel: 020 7733<br />

7515) Situated in


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+44 (0)20 7580 7161|shop@scandikitchen.co.uk<br />

scandi.indd 1 03/02/<strong>2011</strong> 11:07


152 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />

London<br />

UK<br />

Brixton, The Dogstar<br />

is an eclectic DJ bar<br />

known for being the<br />

go-to spot for a good<br />

after-party in south<br />

London. Resident DJs<br />

play a mix of hip-hop<br />

and party classics to a<br />

laidback trendy crowd<br />

every night. On Tuesdays<br />

there’s an unusual<br />

comedy night, and Friday<br />

nights start the weekend<br />

in style with a “mashup”<br />

of hits from the 80s and<br />

90s, as well as electro<br />

and indie beats.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Portobello<br />

Market is one of the<br />

most famous street<br />

markets in the world,<br />

and a great place to<br />

while away a Saturday<br />

afternoon, browsing<br />

the antique shops,<br />

tempting food stalls<br />

and off beat boutiques.<br />

Join the queue outside<br />

Hummingbird Bakery<br />

for a famous cupcake<br />

and seek out that<br />

famous blue door at<br />

the Travel Bookshop,<br />

made famous by the<br />

fi lm Notting Hill. Just<br />

remember to try and<br />

arrive early – this<br />

London institution<br />

gets very busy with<br />

bargain-hunting locals<br />

and camera-carrying<br />

visitors alike.<br />

SEE The Birds Eye<br />

View Film Festival,<br />

celebrating the<br />

achievements of female<br />

fi lmmakers, takes<br />

place at the Southbank<br />

Centre and the Institute<br />

of Contemporary Arts<br />

from 8–17 March –<br />

opening on International<br />

Women’s Day. Did you<br />

know that only 6%<br />

of fi lm directors are<br />

women? This festival<br />

aims to raise awareness<br />

of the women who<br />

inspire and challenge us<br />

to think critically about<br />

fi lm. Awards, preview<br />

screenings, speakers<br />

and parties are just<br />

some of the highlights<br />

(birds-eye-view.co.uk).<br />

GO Fancy trying a cool<br />

glass of Pressed Rat and<br />

Warthog? How about<br />

Steaming Billy’s Last<br />

Bark? Then head to the<br />

London Drinker Beer<br />

& Cider Festival at the<br />

Camden Centre in King’s<br />

Cross from 9–11 March,<br />

where you can sample<br />

strange-sounding<br />

beers to your heart’s<br />

content (camranorth<br />

london.org.uk)<br />

ESCAPE It might not<br />

be sunbathing weather<br />

just yet, but that doesn’t<br />

mean you can’t enjoy<br />

a day by the seaside.<br />

Just an hour outside of<br />

London is the bohemian<br />

city of Brighton. Here<br />

you can brave the rickety<br />

rides and stuff your face<br />

full of candy-fl oss at the<br />

pier, wander through the<br />

cobbled North Lanes<br />

– home to many cool<br />

and quirky independent<br />

shops – or enjoy a walk<br />

along the seafront.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Although at just over<br />

1m wide it’s London’s<br />

smallest house, 20<br />

nuns live in the<br />

Tyburn Convent in<br />

Hyde Park Place!<br />

Amy Baker<br />

Luxor<br />

Egypt<br />

DIALLING CODE +20<br />

CURRENCY EGP<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London (LGW)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs 50LE<br />

to the East Bank, and<br />

100LE to the West Bank.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Noor el<br />

Gurna (West Bank)<br />

You’ll fi nd this restaurant<br />

opposite the main West<br />

Bank ticket offi ce, behind<br />

the colossus of Memnon.<br />

Simple Egyptian food is<br />

served in an atmospheric<br />

outdoor area – try<br />

the local duck and the<br />

homemade lemonade.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

The Fortune Cookie<br />

(St Joseph Street,<br />

tel: 010 294 8079) A<br />

new addition to the<br />

Luxor dining scene and<br />

serves quality Chinese<br />

cuisine, complemented<br />

by some Thai dishes<br />

and an international<br />

selection. Situated at<br />

the bottom of St Joseph<br />

Street. Open from 12pm<br />

to 11pm every day.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Luxor<br />

Museum (Corniche<br />

el Nile) This excellent<br />

museum is open until<br />

9pm. A guide isn’t<br />

needed as it’s well laid<br />

out and labelled. On<br />

leaving the museum,<br />

there are plenty of cafés<br />

dotted about, where<br />

you can stop for a tea<br />

or coff ee to recharge<br />

your batteries.<br />

LATE & LIVELY The<br />

King’s Head (Sharia<br />

Khalid Ibn Walid) The<br />

perfect late-night<br />

venue with billiards,<br />

satellite TV, pub food,<br />

beer and cocktails. It<br />

closes when you leave.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Arkwright’s<br />

Supermarket is a<br />

general food store with<br />

a diff erence. Rye bread,<br />

sugar-free cereals,<br />

pâté, fresh sandwiches,<br />

quiche and cakes<br />

will make sure your<br />

cupboards and picnic<br />

baskets are never bare<br />

(St Joseph Street,<br />

tel: 095 228 2335).<br />

GO There are some<br />

great walks high in<br />

the hills, just a little<br />

out of town. Go up by<br />

the workman’s village<br />

at Deir el Medina and<br />

down by the temple of<br />

Queen Hatshepsut<br />

at Deir el Bahri and<br />

get some great<br />

panoramic views.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

March is the start of the<br />

Khamsin, the 50-day<br />

period when the wind<br />

picks up suddenly –<br />

with temperature<br />

changes of 20°C and<br />

winds of up to 140km an<br />

hour – and disappears<br />

just as quickly.<br />

Jane Akshar<br />

Lyon<br />

France<br />

DIALLING CODE +33<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Agadir, Barcelona,<br />

Berlin, Biarritz, Bordeaux,<br />

Brest, Bristol, Brussels,<br />

Casablanca, Corsica<br />

(Bastia), Edinburgh,<br />

Ibiza, Lisbon, Liverpool,<br />

London (LGW, STN),<br />

Madrid, Marrakech,<br />

Milan (MXP), Nantes,<br />

Nice, Olbia, Porto,<br />

Prague, Rome (CIA),<br />

Toulouse, Venice<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €55.<br />

The Rhônexpress<br />

Tram links the<br />

airport and Lyon Part<br />

UP TO €50<br />

Brasserie Georges<br />

1836 (30 Cours de<br />

Verdun, tel: 04 7256<br />

5454) Georges is an<br />

historic brasserie<br />

serving choucroute<br />

and other traditional<br />

favourites. A convivial<br />

canteen with class.<br />

Dieu train station in<br />

less than 30 minutes.<br />

Tickets: €13. Allow ten<br />

minutes from terminal 3.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 Zone<br />

Verte (24 Quai St<br />

Antoine, tel: 04 7838<br />

1518) You can enjoy<br />

seasonal produce in the<br />

zen surroundings or on<br />

the go, and everything<br />

from the butter on the<br />

bread to the smoothie<br />

ingredients has been<br />

carefully selected<br />

to earn its organic<br />

certifi cation.<br />

UP TO €30 Le Pearl<br />

(1 bis Quai du Commerce,<br />

tel: 04 7843 2685)<br />

Enjoy panaoramic views<br />

over the Saône river on<br />

this très chic riverboat<br />

stationed in the up-andcoming<br />

ninth district.<br />

It’s semi-gastronomic –<br />

meaning fi ne without<br />

the frills – and off ers<br />

diners the chance to<br />

dance it off afterwards.<br />

EXCLUSIVE La Table<br />

de Suzanne (37 Rue<br />

Auguste Comte, tel: 04<br />

7837 4983) Seasonal<br />

and luxury produce,<br />

including delicious foie<br />

gras, is used creatively<br />

here, and served in<br />

pleasant surroundings.<br />

A venue to celebrate<br />

something special.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY<br />

L’Antiquaire (20 Rue<br />

Hippolyte-Flandrin, tel:<br />

06 3421 5465) Be sure<br />

to reserve your table<br />

in advance at this bar<br />

inspired by American


Shaping the Future<br />

of Infrastructure<br />

& Investment<br />

Come along and hear about the<br />

exciting plans for Luton<br />

Guest presentations will include:<br />

■ the Public Private Partnership<br />

with Wates Construction<br />

■ Novel Infrastructure funding for<br />

the future - TIF bid with CBRE<br />

Presentations will be held on<br />

Tuesday at 4:15pm,<br />

Wednesday at 10:15am and<br />

Thursday at 10am.<br />

Come and visit us at our stand in<br />

the Riviera Hall - R27.18<br />

For more information or to<br />

arrange an appointment<br />

please call +44(0) 1582 546265


154 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />

Lyon<br />

France<br />

speakeasies. The<br />

1930s-style bartenders<br />

serve classic and<br />

contemporary pre- or<br />

post-dinner drinks in<br />

the calm and classic<br />

surroundings, with<br />

cosy armchairs.<br />

LIVE MUSIC Johnny<br />

Walsh’s (56 Rue Saint<br />

Georges, tel: 04 7865<br />

5236) You can expect<br />

a friendly Irish welcome<br />

with live music from<br />

Thursday to Sunday. The<br />

neighbouring Johnny’s<br />

Kitchen is a great pitstop<br />

for sustenance.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Q Boat (17 Quai<br />

Augagneur, tel: 04<br />

7284 9898) Cocktails<br />

to suit all tastes get<br />

the trendsetters<br />

fl ocking to this plush<br />

riverboat where the<br />

ambient sounds go on<br />

till morning.<br />

Peniche La Marquise<br />

(20 Quai Augagneur, tel:<br />

04 7261 9292) A young<br />

and trendy crowd board<br />

this riverboat bar and<br />

club to enjoy the sounds<br />

of salsa, house, jungle<br />

and breakbeat until the<br />

early hours.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Stock up<br />

on one-off Italian<br />

designer gadgets<br />

at Lago-Store,<br />

which combines<br />

contemporary art<br />

and lifestyle (70 Rue<br />

Auguste-Comte).<br />

If vintage is your thing,<br />

head to Coco Picos for<br />

unusual clothing<br />

and accessories (7<br />

Rue Austerlitz).<br />

SEE From 18–28 March,<br />

visitors will descend<br />

in their thousands on<br />

Eurexpo for the 93rd<br />

Foire Internationale<br />

de Lyon. More than<br />

1,200 exhibitors in the<br />

home, environment,<br />

leisure, wellbeing and<br />

travel sectors make this<br />

reputable fair a fest of<br />

information and intrigue<br />

(foiredelyon.com).<br />

GO The romanesque<br />

basilica of St-Martind’Ainay<br />

was constructed<br />

towards the end of<br />

the 10th century and<br />

consecrated by Pope<br />

Pascal II in 1107. The<br />

quarter is home to<br />

buildings dating back to<br />

the Bourbon restoration,<br />

and in the neighbouring<br />

side streets a deluge<br />

of antiques and<br />

galleries can be found.<br />

ESCAPE Spring is<br />

the best time to explore<br />

the Camargue, with its<br />

wetlands that are home<br />

to Europe’s largest<br />

population of fl amingos,<br />

black bulls and famous<br />

horses. It can be visited<br />

on bike, horse or by boat,<br />

all of which can be hired<br />

in nearby Aigues Mortes.<br />

Neighbouring Arles,<br />

with its Roman<br />

amphitheatre, is worth a<br />

20-minute detour. TGV<br />

trains leave Lyon for Arles<br />

or Avignon regularly<br />

(sncf-voyages.com).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

In addition to Lyon’s very<br />

successful pick-up and<br />

drop-off Vélo’v bicycle<br />

system, rumour has it a<br />

water-taxi initiative, using<br />

the Saône and Rhône<br />

rivers, is on the cards.<br />

John Brown<br />

Madeira<br />

Portugal<br />

DIALLING CODE +351<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Bristol, Lisbon,<br />

London (LGW, STN)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €30.<br />

The Aerobus goes<br />

to the main hotel<br />

area, with 12 services<br />

daily. Tickets: €5.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Riso (274<br />

Rua de Santa Maria,<br />

Funchal, tel: 291 280<br />

360) An innovative<br />

array of rice dishes<br />

from around the world<br />

(even the desserts are<br />

rice-based) are served<br />

in this classy restaurant<br />

overlooking one of<br />

Funchal’s best bathing<br />

areas, the Barreirinha<br />

Lido. The coriander rice<br />

with prawns and fi sh is<br />

hard to beat.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Casa<br />

Velha do Palheiro (23<br />

Rua de Estalagem, tel:<br />

291 790 350) The dining<br />

room’s haute cuisine<br />

menu showcases all<br />

the delights of Madeira,<br />

spiced with hints of the<br />

Orient. In addition to the<br />

à la carte menu<br />

guests also have<br />

a choice of a sevencourse<br />

tasting menu<br />

with accompanying<br />

Portuguese wines.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Cervejaria<br />

Beerhouse (Pontão de<br />

São Lázaro, tel: 291 229<br />

011) In a great position<br />

above the marina, this<br />

lively bar and restaurant<br />

serves its own unfi ltered<br />

beers – a great place to<br />

catch Funchal’s lights<br />

after dark.<br />

LATE & LIVELY Jam<br />

(60 Avenida Sá Carneiro,<br />

Funchal, tel: 291 234<br />

800) Located by the<br />

docks, this is a late-night<br />

dance haven for those<br />

into 1980s sounds.<br />

There are DJ nights and<br />

occasionally jazz too.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP You can buy<br />

orchid plants – or<br />

baby orchids to grow<br />

yourself in glass jars<br />

– from the Jardim<br />

Orquídea (37 Rua<br />

Pita da Silva).<br />

SEE Madeira’s<br />

Carnival (4–8 March)<br />

is Funchal’s big event<br />

of the year, with four<br />

days of riotous partying,<br />

fancy dress, live music<br />

and a parade that even<br />

Rio would tip its hat to.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Funchal’s Carnival<br />

traditionally kicks off<br />

with Transvestite Night,<br />

when normally macho<br />

men hit the town in<br />

their sister’s or mother’s<br />

clothes. Expect to see<br />

guys in glittery dresses.<br />

Matthew Hancock<br />

LA CONCEPCION<br />

Madrid<br />

Spain<br />

DIALLING CODE +34<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Amsterdam,<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

Berlin, Bordeaux,<br />

Bristol, Bucharest,<br />

Casablanca, Edinburgh,<br />

Fuerteventura, Geneva,<br />

Ibiza, Lanzarote, Lisbon,<br />

Liverpool, London (LGW,<br />

LTN), Lyon, Marrakech,<br />

Menorca, Milan (MXP),<br />

Naples, Paris (CDG),<br />

Rome (CIA), Sofi a,<br />

Tangier, Toulouse, Venice<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €30.<br />

Number 200<br />

connects to<br />

Avenida de America<br />

Metro and bus station.<br />

Airport Express goes<br />

to Atocha Train Station.<br />

Tickets: €2<br />

Metro line 8<br />

connects to many<br />

other lines and suburban<br />

trains. Tickets €2<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 Lateral<br />

(12 Plaza Santa Ana,<br />

tel: 914 201 582) This<br />

very cool restaurant<br />

serves Spanish tapas<br />

with a twist. Try tiny<br />

While in Malaga visit the only tropical outdoor botanic garden in Europe.<br />

Historical and Botanic Gardens “La Concepcion”<br />

Closed on Monday, other amenities include: Coffee Shop/ Restaurant, Museum, Gift Shop<br />

Tel: +34 952252148 | www.laconcepcion.malaga.eu<br />

steaks with blue cheese<br />

sauce, tempura prawns<br />

or stuff ed red peppers.<br />

The interior boasts<br />

warm, intimate lighting<br />

and quick service.<br />

UP TO €30 La Cesta<br />

(10 Calle Recoletos, tel:<br />

911 400 696) Already<br />

a fi rm favourite with<br />

the in-crowd, the menu<br />

at this new restaurant<br />

is the creation of<br />

Michelin-starred chef<br />

Oscar Velasco. Guests<br />

are encouraged to share<br />

various dishes over<br />

large glasses of wine.<br />

Highlights are tomato<br />

soup with mushrooms,<br />

king prawns with<br />

aubergine or cuttlefi sh.<br />

UP TO €50<br />

Le Dragon (2 Calle de<br />

Gil de Santivañés, tel: 914<br />

356 668) This is one of<br />

Madrid’s most charming<br />

Asian restaurants. The<br />

interior is dressed in<br />

stunning black and red,<br />

while the menu features<br />

many spicy Szechuan<br />

dishes, any of which will<br />

leave your tastebuds<br />

tingling with pleasure.<br />

ZENIT<br />

ABEBA<br />

★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />

The ultra-stylish Zenit<br />

lies in Salamanca<br />

district, perfectly<br />

placed for Madrid’s<br />

fi nest shopping.<br />

Breakfast included.<br />

From €89, book at<br />

hotels.easyJet.com.


EXCLUSIVE<br />

Santceloni (57 Paseo<br />

de la Castellana, tel:<br />

912 108 840) Boasting<br />

two Michelin stars,<br />

Santceloni off ers<br />

décor as refi ned as<br />

its menu. Glassed-in<br />

garden atriums and<br />

exquisite Spanish<br />

cuisine make for a<br />

sublime experience.<br />

Chef Velásco off ers an<br />

exquisite menu which<br />

includes oysters.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Cervecería<br />

Alemana (6 Plaza Santa<br />

Ana, tel: 914 297 033)<br />

Cervecería Alemana<br />

specialises in frothy<br />

beers, to be enjoyed in<br />

the company of locals.<br />

One of Hemingway’s old<br />

haunts, this institution<br />

boasts a few regulars<br />

old enough to have<br />

met the man himself.<br />

LIVE MUSIC Café<br />

Central (10 Plaza del<br />

Angel, tel: 913 694 143)<br />

Move to the groove of<br />

live jazz while you enjoy<br />

a glass of La Rioja wine.<br />

The varied programme<br />

includes both local and<br />

international talent.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Larios Café (4 Calle<br />

Silva, tel: 915 479 394)<br />

This restaurant and<br />

bar, which has its own<br />

dancefl oor, is open<br />

till 3am Thursday<br />

to Saturday nights,<br />

attracting hip, goodlooking<br />

people.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Treat yourself to<br />

some new threads from<br />

along the buzzy Gran<br />

Vía. Wander into the<br />

small streets branching<br />

off from either side to<br />

discover shops boasting<br />

work by up-and-coming<br />

Spanish designers<br />

such as Carlos Diez Diez<br />

(4 Loreto y Chicote).<br />

Don’t miss the new<br />

megastore by trendy<br />

Spanish label Desigual<br />

(Plaza Callao).<br />

SEE March is an<br />

exciting month at<br />

Teatro Real. Choose<br />

from a new production<br />

of the 19th-century<br />

opera Werther by Jules<br />

Massenet, which stars<br />

José Bros, The Firebird<br />

Suite by Stravinski or<br />

a concert by soprano<br />

Deborah Polaski<br />

(teatro-real.com).<br />

GO Take a stroll<br />

around some of<br />

Madrid’s oldest streets<br />

in Barrio de los Austrias.<br />

Start at Plaza San<br />

Andrés and wind your<br />

way through Plaza de<br />

la Paja to Calle Segovia.<br />

Sundays are busy with<br />

locals enjoying a beer<br />

in the sun.<br />

ESCAPE History<br />

and fi ne food await in<br />

Segovia. Catch the bus<br />

from Principe Pio and<br />

in 50 minutes you’re<br />

there. Marvel at the<br />

2,000-year-old Roman<br />

aqueduct and the<br />

gothic cathedral before<br />

lunching on roast pork.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Madrid’s picturesque<br />

Plaza Mayor, was,<br />

during the 17th and 18th<br />

centuries, the scene of<br />

bloody bullfi ghts and<br />

the gruesome burning<br />

of religious heretics<br />

at the stake by the<br />

Spanish Inquisition.<br />

Scott Adams<br />

Majorca<br />

Spain<br />

DIALLING CODE +34<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Belfast (BFS),<br />

Berlin, Bristol, Dortmund,<br />

Edinburgh, Geneva,<br />

Glasgow, Liverpool,<br />

London (LGW, LTN,<br />

STN), Manchester, Milan<br />

(MXP), Newcastle, Paris<br />

(CDG), Rome (FCO)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €20.<br />

Route 1 goes to<br />

central Palma.<br />

Tickets: €2. For Arenal<br />

take the number 21 bus.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 The<br />

Italian Square (37<br />

Carrettera Andratx,<br />

Portals Nous, tel: 971<br />

684 008) The menu<br />

of the day consists of<br />

freshly made Italian<br />

cuisine all served as<br />

a help-yourself buff et.<br />

Remember to go with<br />

an empty stomach –<br />

you can go back for<br />

seconds! Also serving<br />

pastas, pizzas and<br />

sauces, this Italian<br />

restaurant sets the<br />

standard for reasonably<br />

priced, tasty food.<br />

UP TO €30 Rotana<br />

(58 Calle Sant Magi,<br />

Palma, tel: 971 286 078)<br />

In the heart of Santa<br />

Catalina, you’ll discover<br />

the best authentic<br />

Lebanese cuisine on this<br />

restaurant’s extensive<br />

menu of vegetarian and<br />

meat dishes, all served<br />

in traditional Middle<br />

Eastern style décor.<br />

UP TO €50<br />

Il Paradiso (243 Joan<br />

Miró, tel: 971 103 379)<br />

This Italian restaurant<br />

is unique in style. The<br />

main dining room<br />

boasts fl oor-to-ceiling<br />

windows, from which<br />

you can view Cala<br />

Major bay, or you<br />

can dine alfresco on<br />

the spacious terrace.<br />

Samples from the menu<br />

include penne paridiso<br />

served with sautéed<br />

beef strips, green<br />

pea, marsala wine,<br />

mushrooms, fresh basil<br />

and Parmesan. The<br />

mouthwatering dishes<br />

are all served with a<br />

smile, making this a<br />

truly brilliant dining<br />

experience.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Zaranda<br />

Sa Torre (Hilton Sa<br />

Torre Hotel, 87 Cami de<br />

Sa Torre, Llucmajor, tel:<br />

971 963 700) Indulge<br />

at this Michelin-starred<br />

restaurant and savour<br />

the Mediterranean and<br />

international cuisine<br />

among modern and<br />

stylish surroundings. It<br />

also boasts an exquisite<br />

wine cellar off ering<br />

more than 170 varieties,<br />

which are among the<br />

best wines on the island.<br />

This restaurant is a real<br />

delight and booking is<br />

an absolute must.<br />

DESTINATION GUIDES | 155<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Hogan’s<br />

(2 Monseñor Palmer,<br />

Palma) This may be<br />

an Irish bar, but it’s<br />

massively popular with<br />

the Spanish as well<br />

as being the favourite<br />

watering hole of visiting<br />

yacht crews. A great<br />

place to start or even<br />

fi nish your night out.<br />

LIVE MUSIC El<br />

Garito Cafe (Dàrsena<br />

de Can Barbarà) This<br />

has been one of Palma’s<br />

best nightspots for<br />

more than a decade,<br />

hosting DJs and live<br />

music from Thursday to<br />

Sunday in cool, chilledout<br />

surroundings.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Menta (Avenida Tucán,<br />

Port d’Alcúdia, tel:<br />

971 891 972) If you’re<br />

staying in the north or<br />

fancy a trip out of town,<br />

this well-known club<br />

compares well with<br />

Palma’s loudest and<br />

proudest. You’ll fi nd DJs,<br />

seven bars, laser lights,<br />

a swimming pool and<br />

fabulous parties.<br />

UR PALACIO<br />

AVENIDA<br />

★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />

Housed in a famous<br />

cinema dating back<br />

to 1942, this uniquely<br />

renovated hotel will<br />

leave you feeling like<br />

a star yourself.<br />

From €79, book at<br />

hotels.easyJet.com.<br />

Your lifestyle store in Palma!<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP If you’re a lover<br />

of anything chocolate,<br />

Cacao Sampaka is<br />

the place to go. The<br />

shop is dedicated<br />

to cocoa nuts and<br />

stocks everything<br />

from chocolates to<br />

jams, sauces to ice<br />

cream. Just the smell<br />

of the shop will get your<br />

tastebuds fl owing –<br />

and you won’t leave<br />

empty-handed. A<br />

real slice of heaven<br />

(1 Plaza Marques<br />

de Palmer, Palma,<br />

tel: 971 714 309).<br />

SEE For all automobile<br />

enthusiasts, a classic<br />

car rally takes place<br />

this month. Starting<br />

from Paseo Marítimo,<br />

vintage vehicles<br />

race along a 600km<br />

route that includes a<br />

scenic coastal section<br />

(rallyislamallorca.com).<br />

GO Plaza Mayor in<br />

the heart of the city<br />

is the perfect place<br />

to sit, chill and watch<br />

the world go by. With<br />

street entertainers<br />

and market stalls,<br />

there’s plenty to<br />

keep you occupied.<br />

ESCAPE Head to<br />

the north west of the<br />

island and visit Lluc<br />

monastery, high in the<br />

Tramuntana mountains,<br />

which is home to<br />

an iconic statue<br />

of the Virgin Mary.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Majorca’s oldest<br />

human remains date<br />

back to 5,000BC and<br />

were discovered at<br />

Valldemosa on the site<br />

of Son Matge.<br />

David Anderson<br />

RIALTO LIVING, C/ SANT FELIU 3 C, PALMA DE MALLORCA. TEL 971 71 33 31. WWW.RIALTOLIVING.COM<br />

COME AND SEE US, WE ARE OPEN MONDAY – SATURDAY 10.00 – 20.30


156 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />

Málaga<br />

Spain<br />

DIALLING CODE +34<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

Belfast (BFS), Berlin,<br />

Bristol, Geneva, Glasgow,<br />

Liverpool, London (LGW,<br />

LTN, STN), Manchester,<br />

Milan (MXP), Newcastle,<br />

Paris (CDG)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €15.<br />

Buses go to<br />

Málaga, with links<br />

to all the coastal resorts.<br />

Tickets: €1.20.<br />

There is a train<br />

linking the airport<br />

with Málaga and the<br />

Costa del Sol resorts.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15<br />

Chiringuito La Jabega<br />

(Playa el Saltillo,<br />

Torremolinos, tel: 952<br />

284 765) Located just<br />

before Benalmádena<br />

Port on the Carihuela<br />

seafront, this is one<br />

of the best beachside<br />

restaurants for seafood,<br />

including barbecued<br />

sardines. Non-fi sh<br />

lovers can opt for a slice<br />

of arguably the best<br />

tortilla on the Costa.<br />

UP TO €30 El Mirlo<br />

Blanco (13 Calle<br />

Cuesta de la Villa, Mijas,<br />

tel: 952 485 700) This<br />

long-standing popular<br />

restaurant specialises<br />

in Basque dishes<br />

such as kokotxas de<br />

bacalau (cod cheeks)<br />

and txanguroo (spider<br />

crab) and is located in<br />

the centre of the village<br />

overlooking a pretty<br />

plaza. Top off your<br />

meal with a Grand<br />

Marnier souffl é.<br />

UP TO €50 Skina (12<br />

Calle Aduar, Marbella,<br />

tel: 952 765 277) In the<br />

cobbled heart of the<br />

Old Town, this charming<br />

restaurant prides itself<br />

on a truly innovative<br />

menu. Push the boat<br />

out with a fi sh dish<br />

such as grilled sole with<br />

fresh lime and ginger, or<br />

tempura with Iberican<br />

pork and onions.<br />

Intimate and stylish<br />

with moody lighting,<br />

this is a top choice for<br />

a romantic dinner.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Tragabuches (1 Calle<br />

José Aparacio, Ronda,<br />

tel: 952 190 291) This<br />

celebrated Michelinstarred<br />

restaurant<br />

serves innovative and<br />

well-crafted dishes<br />

such as ajo blanco<br />

(white garlic soup)<br />

with pistachios, foie<br />

gras with goat’s cheese<br />

or a choice of several<br />

game dishes, including<br />

loin of deer. There is<br />

a superb choice of<br />

quality wines too.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY The Forum<br />

(14 Palangreros,<br />

Fuengirola) A relaxing<br />

bar in which to kick off<br />

a night out, the Forum<br />

is top choice for longtime<br />

expats, with<br />

weekly quiz nights,<br />

superb light snacks<br />

and an easy-going<br />

congenial atmosphere.<br />

LIVE MUSIC Taberna<br />

Flamenca Pepe López<br />

(Plaza de la Gamba<br />

Alegre, Torremolinos,<br />

tel: 952 381 284) Catch<br />

impromptu fl amenco<br />

at this taverna, with<br />

plenty of castanetclicking,<br />

swirling skirts<br />

and fi esta spirit.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Sinatra (2 Calle de la<br />

Ribera, Puerto Banús,<br />

tel: 952 819 050) The<br />

frontline for ogling<br />

the gin-palace crowd,<br />

this place has been<br />

around for decades<br />

and attracts plenty of<br />

colourful old-timers, as<br />

well as the occasional<br />

cocktail-quaffi ng celeb.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Colourful<br />

ceramics, locally woven<br />

rugs and exhibitions<br />

by local artists can be<br />

enjoyed on the fi rst<br />

Sunday of the month<br />

at the Ronda Feria<br />

ground. Alternatively,<br />

the normal Sunday<br />

market also has plenty<br />

of tempting items for<br />

sale, providing just<br />

one more reason for<br />

visiting this stunning<br />

mountain-top town.<br />

SEE Enjoy a soiree at<br />

Málaga’s wonderful<br />

art deco theatre,<br />

Teatro Cervantes, with<br />

productions this month<br />

including the famous<br />

one-act opera La Voix<br />

Humaine (The Human<br />

<br />

Voice) with words by<br />

Jean Cocteau and<br />

starring the esteemed<br />

Corsican soprano<br />

Michelle Canniccioni.<br />

From 11–13 March<br />

(teatrocervantes.com).<br />

GO Seville is the<br />

epitome of an<br />

Andalusian city, with its<br />

heady Moor-inspired<br />

architecture, fabulous<br />

fl amenco, superb tapas<br />

bars, sophisticated<br />

shopping and overall<br />

vibrancy. There are<br />

plenty of museums<br />

and sights here as<br />

well, including one of<br />

the most beautiful<br />

city parks and one<br />

of the world’s largest<br />

cathedrals. It’s an<br />

easy two-hour drive to<br />

Seville or you can hop<br />

on the train at Málaga.<br />

ESCAPE In the heart<br />

of the Axarquia, the<br />

pretty, whitewashed<br />

village of Cómpeta is<br />

home to some of the<br />

area’s best local wines.<br />

Ask for a taste at<br />

Museo del Vino<br />

(Avenida de la<br />

Constitución) in the<br />

centre of town, which<br />

also has an extensive<br />

display of Moroccan<br />

and local arts and<br />

crafts for sale, as well<br />

as honey, olive oil and<br />

other gourmet treats.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

If you happen to<br />

be enjoying tapas<br />

presented with<br />

a toothpick, don’t<br />

discard it – they’re<br />

often used to calculate<br />

your bill (especially in<br />

bars that specialise in<br />

Basque-style pintxos).<br />

Josephine Quintero<br />

Malta<br />

Malta<br />

DIALLING CODE +356<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Belfast, Liverpool,<br />

London (LGW),<br />

Manchester, Newcastle,<br />

Milan (MXP), Rome (FCO)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €16.<br />

No. 8 services<br />

Valletta and the<br />

main bus station.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Grotto<br />

Tavern (9–12 Parish<br />

Square, Rabat) Inspired<br />

LOW KEY<br />

Luna Lounge (Palazzo<br />

Parisio, Naxxar, tel:<br />

21 412 461) Part of<br />

the exclusive Luna<br />

Collection within this<br />

magnifi cent palazzo,<br />

this is a haven of<br />

plush surroundings<br />

and cocktails.<br />

by Maltese and French<br />

culinary delights, this<br />

tavern off ers delicious<br />

food and wine, including<br />

the DIY raclette of meats,<br />

chicken and cheeses.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Palazzo<br />

Santa Rosa (Mistra<br />

Bay, Xemxija, St Pawl<br />

il-Bahar, tel: 21 582 737)<br />

Using organic vegetables<br />

grown in the Palazzo’s<br />

own garden, chef<br />

Claude Camilleri creates<br />

a slow-food feast for<br />

loyal patrons.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Havana (St George’s<br />

Road) The home of<br />

R’n’B, hip hop and great<br />

old-school classics in<br />

Malta. Prepare to<br />

party until the early<br />

morning, surrounded<br />

by smooth sounds.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP The desire for<br />

vintage clothing is taking<br />

off locally, and the team<br />

behind Blush & Panic is<br />

leading the way. Pop in<br />

for an original selection<br />

of clothes (Melita<br />

Street, Valletta).<br />

GO The carnival (4–8<br />

March) is one of the<br />

best-loved events of<br />

Malta’s cultural calendar.<br />

Locals take to the streets<br />

in bright costumes to<br />

watch the colourful<br />

parade pass through<br />

Floriana, Valletta and<br />

Victoria (Gozo).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

In Nadur the carnival is<br />

celebrated in a distinct<br />

manner with a rowdy<br />

festival of grotesque<br />

masks and wild antics.<br />

Jo Caruana


SAN ROQUE GOLF RESORT<br />

Costa del Sol - Spain<br />

4**** DELUXE RESORT<br />

Situated directly at the San Roque Golf Club<br />

Golf, Pool/Jacuzzi, Horse Riding, Bars<br />

Restaurants, Commercial Centre<br />

Weddings & Events<br />

FIFA football Pitch<br />

First Golf Tournament 16th of April<br />

Better Ball - Inscription Fee + Lunch 75 €<br />

Room + Breakfast Package: 75 €<br />

CN 340 - KM 127 San Roque -Tel: (+34)956 613 230<br />

www.sanroque-golfresort.com<br />

TIMELESS, LAID-BACK AND INTERNATIONAL – THE DESIGN HOTEL IN THE CITY CENTRE<br />

FROM COMPACT TO SUPER-SPACIOUS – 285 ROOMS AND SUITES, ELEGANT AND MODERN<br />

FROM CONFERENCE MEETINGS TO BANQUETS – ROOMS AVAILABLE FROM 40 TO 640 M 2<br />

WITH CUTTING-EDGE FACILITIES LUNCH OR DINNER BE DAZZLED BY THE CULINARY CREATIONS<br />

FROM OUR STUNNING SHOW KITCHEN AN OASIS OF CALM – THE »DUKE« RESTAURANT,<br />

SUMMER GARDEN, COCKTAIL BAR AND LOUNGE STYLISH AND RIGHT IN THE HEART OF BERLIN<br />

ELLINGTON HOTEL BERLIN | NÜRNBERGER STR. 50 - 55 | 10789 BERLIN | PHONE +49 (30) 68 31-50 | WWW.ELLINGTON-HOTEL.COM


158 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />

Manchester<br />

UK<br />

DIALLING CODE +44<br />

CURRENCY £<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Alicante,<br />

Amsterdam, Athens,<br />

Copenhagen, Corfu,<br />

Corsica (Bastia), Crete<br />

(Heraklion), Cyprus<br />

(Paphos), Dalaman,<br />

Geneva, Gothenburg,<br />

Hamburg, Helsinki,<br />

Majorca, Málaga, Malta,<br />

Marrakech, Menorca,<br />

Munich, Sharm El Sheikh,<br />

Sofi a, Tenerife, Zürich<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs £20.<br />

Trains depart for<br />

the city centre<br />

every 10 minutes.<br />

Tickets: £5.40 single.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 Archies<br />

(72 Oxford Street,<br />

tel: 0161 237 1736)<br />

Decked in neon lights<br />

and sweets, few places<br />

beat Archies milk<br />

bar on Oxford Road<br />

for a sugar fi x. Chat<br />

to the locals over a<br />

chilli burger, and then<br />

tuck into waffl es and<br />

ice cream for dessert.<br />

UP TO €30 Phet<br />

Pailin (46 George<br />

Street, China Town,<br />

tel: 0161 228 6500)<br />

This Thai restaurant<br />

specialises in hot<br />

curries and salads.<br />

Just off the beaten<br />

track, its jungle-style<br />

décor and bring-yourown<br />

policy make good<br />

times mandatory.<br />

UP TO €50 El Rincon<br />

(244 Deansgate, tel:<br />

0161 839 8819) Like<br />

a gem, this Spanish<br />

restaurant is hard to<br />

fi nd but worth the<br />

hunt, and it serves<br />

up atmosphere and<br />

authentic tapas<br />

galore in cellar-like<br />

surrounds. Opt for<br />

one of several bottles<br />

of Albarino or Rioja,<br />

while the 30-plus<br />

small plates, including<br />

Galican octopus<br />

and charred grilled<br />

peppers, are just<br />

perfect for sharing.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY The<br />

Gaslamp (50A<br />

Bridge Street) In<br />

the tiled cellar of<br />

a Victorian property,<br />

the original fi ttings<br />

are complemented<br />

by an extraordinary<br />

selection of<br />

international ales and<br />

wines. Rightly popular<br />

with the cool crowd.<br />

LIVE MUSIC Night<br />

& Day Café (26<br />

Oldham Street, tel:<br />

0161 236 4597) This<br />

central bar plays host<br />

to up-and-coming<br />

bands with an indie<br />

bent. Recent guests<br />

at this Mancunian<br />

institution include<br />

Yuck and Everything<br />

Everything, while<br />

regulars at the<br />

wood-lined bar include<br />

members of Elbow.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Matt & Phreds (64<br />

Tib Street, tel: 0161<br />

831 7002) Oozing<br />

a gloriously seedy<br />

charm, this late-night<br />

jazz club has hosted<br />

guests such as soul<br />

diva Liane Carroll and<br />

Cinematic Orchestra’s<br />

Stuart McCallum.<br />

With a drink in hand,<br />

a spot on the<br />

dancefl oor is all<br />

that’s required for<br />

a night to remember.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Nearly 30<br />

years old, Affl ecks<br />

shopping emporium<br />

has held on to its<br />

punk spirit, with<br />

more than 100 small<br />

independent retailers<br />

spread over four<br />

fl oors touting tattoos,<br />

graphic art, jewellery,<br />

hats and vintage<br />

goods. Visit Thunder<br />

Egg for gifts inspired<br />

by Japan, and<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

RESTAURANT<br />

Michael Caines @<br />

Abode (107 Piccadilly,<br />

tel: 0161 200 5678)<br />

Opt for the à la carte<br />

menu, under the<br />

auspices of Michelinstarred<br />

chef Caines.<br />

The entree of wild duck<br />

with blackberries is fab.<br />

Rubber Planation<br />

(52 Church Street,<br />

Northern Quarter).<br />

SEE Maverick artist<br />

Mary Kelly is the subject<br />

of a retrospective at<br />

Whitworth Art Gallery.<br />

Spread through the<br />

airy halls, the work on<br />

display includes Post-<br />

Partum Document,<br />

an intimate record<br />

of her son’s early life.<br />

There’s also the UK’s<br />

fi nest regional textile<br />

collection and<br />

an award-winning<br />

café to check out too<br />

(Oxford Road).<br />

GO Check out West<br />

Didsbury where<br />

bars, delicatessens,<br />

vintage stores and<br />

cafés abound. Folk<br />

and Silver Apples are<br />

ideal for refreshments,<br />

while the fern-fringed<br />

botanical gardens at<br />

Fletcher Moss Park are<br />

worth the trip alone.<br />

ESCAPE Rivington<br />

Pike’s haunting<br />

terraced gardens<br />

lie around 40<br />

minutes’ drive from<br />

Manchester. Forest<br />

paths and foliage are<br />

interspersed with the<br />

crumbling remains of<br />

follies built by<br />

the Lever family<br />

at the turn of the<br />

20th century, and<br />

there’s a great view<br />

from the top of the<br />

Pike (bolton.org.uk).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Manchester has<br />

been a tourist<br />

destination since 1804,<br />

when the fi rst guide<br />

book was written by<br />

Joseph Aston.<br />

Ruth Allan<br />

Marrakech<br />

Morocco<br />

DIALLING CODE +212<br />

CURRENCY MAD<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

Geneva, London (LGW),<br />

Lyon, Madrid, Manchester,<br />

Milan (MXP), Paris (CDG)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com. A<br />

local taxi costs MAD60.<br />

The hourly L19<br />

bus goes to the<br />

Jemaa el Fna. Tickets:<br />

MAD20 single.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Café du<br />

Livre (44 Rue Tarik<br />

Ben Ziad, Gueliz,<br />

tel: 0524 432 149)<br />

A quirky café-bookshop.<br />

Drop in for fresh,<br />

delicious homemade<br />

cakes and afternoon tea<br />

or a light lunch.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Riad<br />

Lotus Privilege (9 Derb<br />

Sidi Ali Ben Hamdouche,<br />

tel: 0524 387 318) An<br />

excellent choice for<br />

an utterly romantic<br />

evening, the Riad Lotus<br />

Privilege restaurant<br />

is great for gourmets.<br />

Off ering only a sevencourse<br />

tasting menu, go<br />

with a healthy appetite<br />

and a large wallet.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY<br />

Montecristo (20 Rue<br />

Ibn Aicha, tel: 0524<br />

439 031) Bypass the<br />

restaurant and Cubanthemed<br />

central fl oor<br />

and head straight for the<br />

candlelit roof terrace.<br />

Go before midnight for<br />

a mellow drink, before it<br />

gets too busy with the<br />

restaurant’s clientèle.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Theatro (Hotel Es Saadi,<br />

Avenue El Quadissia)<br />

This refurbished, former<br />

theatre is a great sight<br />

to see and place to be<br />

seen. The venue has<br />

an exciting, hedonistic<br />

atmosphere with people<br />

lounging around on beds<br />

and couches.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Scènes de Lin<br />

is a striking, low-lit store<br />

run by French textile<br />

expert Anna-Marie<br />

Chaoui. A showroom for<br />

her collection of natural<br />

fabrics, the place also<br />

sells tablecloths, kaftans,<br />

bedspreads and candles<br />

(70 Rue de la Liberté).<br />

GO Ateliers d’Ailleurs<br />

runs courses on<br />

everything from zellije<br />

mosaics and pottery to<br />

cooking, wood painting,<br />

leather production and<br />

embroidery, all taught<br />

in traditional workshops<br />

by local artisans<br />

(ateliersdailleurs.fr).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Marrakech denizens<br />

have included French<br />

fashion designers Yves<br />

Saint-Laurent and<br />

Jean-Paul Gaultier.<br />

Eleanor Rosamund<br />

Barraclough/Hg2.com<br />

DISCOVER THE AUTHENTIC BERBER MOROCCO<br />

DAY EXCURSIONS - OVERNIGHT STAYS - TREKKING IN STYLE - SPECIAL EVENTS - COMMUNITY WORK<br />

British operator in Morocco since 1978 and developers of KASBAH DU TOUBKAL. 60 km from Marrakech.<br />

“The best roof top views in North Africa” - Conde Nast Traveller<br />

T. +212 524485611 • E. kasbah@mountain-voyage.com • www.kasbahdutoubkal.com


160 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />

Marseille<br />

France<br />

DIALLING CODE +33<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Bristol,<br />

London (LGW)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €50.<br />

A shuttle bus runs<br />

to Marseille’s train<br />

station, Gare St Charles<br />

every 20 mins. Tickets:<br />

€8.50 single.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 New Dalat<br />

(3 Rue Méry, tel: 04<br />

9156 1418) You’ll eat well<br />

in this petite Vietnamese<br />

restaurant, which makes<br />

some of the best soups<br />

in Marseille – try the<br />

tonkinoise (Pho) version.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Une<br />

Table au Sud (2 Quai<br />

du Port, tel: 04 9190<br />

6353) Chef Lionel Levy<br />

explodes the senses with<br />

specialities that include<br />

pieds et paquets (lamb<br />

parcels) and the fi shy<br />

macaroni poutargue<br />

(pasta with fi sh eggs).<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Victor Café<br />

(76 Boulevard Charles<br />

Livon, tel: 04 8800<br />

4600) Smiling waiters<br />

serve smooth cocktails<br />

at this agreeable lounge<br />

bar. The list of cocktails<br />

is endless – you could<br />

be here for a while.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Espace & Café Julien<br />

(39 Cours Julien, tel:<br />

04 9124 3410) This is a<br />

popular concert venue.<br />

Go to Espace Julien<br />

for rock, pop, hip hop,<br />

reggae, world music and<br />

jazz, or Café Julien for<br />

up-and-coming talent.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Visit Marseille’s<br />

Rastafarian tailor<br />

Tom, who works like<br />

magic and keeps you<br />

entertained. Look for his<br />

London cab outside<br />

(22 Rue Petites Maries).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Marseille is the new<br />

capital of Mediterranean<br />

cruises – 710,000<br />

passengers set off from<br />

the port last year, and<br />

two million are predicted<br />

to do so by 2015.<br />

Claire McAlpine<br />

HAMMAMS<br />

AT ZEIN<br />

GO Guaranteed to<br />

rejuvenate, enjoy one<br />

of the multicultural<br />

benefi ts of the city<br />

and visit a hammam<br />

at Zeïn Oriental Spa<br />

(16 Quai de Rive<br />

Neuve, Vieux Port, tel:<br />

04 9159 1111).<br />

Milan<br />

Italy<br />

DIALLING CODE +39<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Agadir,<br />

Amsterdam, Athens,<br />

Barcelona, Bari,<br />

Berlin, Bordeaux,<br />

Brindisi, Bucharest,<br />

Brussels, Cagliari,<br />

Casablanca, Catania,<br />

Copenhagen, Corfu,<br />

Crete (Heraklion),<br />

Dubrovnik, Edinburgh,<br />

Ibiza, Lamezia,<br />

Lisbon, London<br />

(LGW, LTN), Lyon,<br />

Madrid, Majorca,<br />

Málaga, Malta,<br />

Marrakech, Menorca,<br />

Mykonos, Naples,<br />

Olbia, Palermo,<br />

Paris (CDG, ORY),<br />

Porto, Prague,<br />

Rhodes, Rome<br />

(FCO), Santorini,<br />

Split, Stockholm,<br />

Thessaloniki, Toulouse<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

LINATE<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €25<br />

ATM’s route 73<br />

connects with<br />

the metro at San<br />

Babila. Tickets: €1.<br />

The Starfl y goes to<br />

Centrale station.<br />

Tickets: €4.50.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

MALPENSA<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €70.<br />

The Malpensa<br />

Shuttle departs<br />

for Centrale station<br />

roughly every 20 minutes<br />

from 5.30am–1.30am.<br />

Tickets: €7.<br />

The Malpensa<br />

Express departs<br />

from Terminal 1 for<br />

Cadorna station every<br />

30 minutes from 6am–<br />

1.30am. Tickets: €11.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 Mar<br />

Rosso (8 Via Marco<br />

Aurelio, tel: 02 282<br />

2682) “Red Sea” is<br />

an African-themed<br />

restaurant off ering<br />

a warm welcome and<br />

specialities inspired<br />

by the cooking of<br />

Eritrea, a former<br />

Italian colony. There’s<br />

a good buff et on<br />

Thursday evenings.<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Il Ristorantino<br />

della Carne (9 Via<br />

Ripamonti, tel: 02<br />

5831 5594) “The<br />

Little Meat Restaurant”<br />

is exactly what it<br />

says, and exactly<br />

what it does. An<br />

unpretentious hideout<br />

not far from the<br />

centre, where you can<br />

enjoy a quiet meal<br />

for two. The entrecôte<br />

al gorgonzola comes<br />

highly recommended.<br />

UP TO €50 Donati<br />

(4 Via Cassiodoro,<br />

tel: 02 4331 9047)<br />

Donati is a lively<br />

Tuscan restaurant and<br />

a great place for<br />

a loud meal with<br />

friends. The menu<br />

includes traditional<br />

fare such as pasta,<br />

ossobuco and<br />

delicious grilled fi sh.<br />

Gente di Mare (5 Via<br />

Bastioni di Porta Volta,<br />

tel: 02 2900 5823)<br />

This lively hang-out is<br />

great for a big group.<br />

It serves rice and<br />

pasta dishes, as well<br />

as sea bream,<br />

swordfi sh and the<br />

classic fritto misto<br />

– a mixed grill of fi sh<br />

cooked in batter.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Alla<br />

Collina Pistoiese<br />

(1 Via Amedei, tel:<br />

02 8645 1085) A<br />

favourite for lunch<br />

with well-to-do<br />

Milanese families,<br />

this long-established<br />

Tuscan brasserie<br />

recalls an oldfashioned<br />

world of<br />

quality and service<br />

with its white table<br />

cloths, dark panelling<br />

and sumptuous fare.<br />

Quinta Carbonaia<br />

Mare (5 Via Stoppani,<br />

tel: 02 204 6003)<br />

Equally good for a<br />

special occasion or<br />

a romantic meal<br />

for two, this quality<br />

fi sh and seafood<br />

restaurant in the<br />

Porta Venezia district<br />

off ers good value at<br />

less than €50 a head<br />

for fantastic food.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Food<br />

& Fashion (2 Via<br />

Palestrina, tel: 02<br />

9738 3003) This<br />

recent arrival<br />

follows the popular<br />

Milan pattern of<br />

all-day opening, with<br />

a Brazilian-inspired<br />

restaurant, happyhour<br />

cocktails<br />

and DJ-selected<br />

music until late.<br />

LIVE MUSIC<br />

Scimmie (49 Via<br />

Ascanio Sforza, tel:<br />

02 8940 2874) This<br />

small venue in the<br />

heart of the busy<br />

Navigli district is<br />

well known on the<br />

international jazz<br />

scene, attracting bigname<br />

artists. Always<br />

packed, but with a<br />

unique atmosphere.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Alcatraz (25 Via<br />

Valtellina, tel: 02<br />

6901 6352) Alcatraz<br />

has some claim to<br />

being Milan’s leading<br />

live music venue, a big<br />

converted warehouse<br />

on the north side<br />

of the city pulling<br />

in big names on the<br />

international circuit<br />

plus dance nights<br />

with famous DJs.<br />

Loolapaloosa (15<br />

Corso Como, tel: 02<br />

655 5693) Established<br />

for more than a<br />

decade, Loolapaloosa<br />

is one of the most<br />

popular clubs on<br />

bustling Corso Como,<br />

attracting a youthful<br />

crowd on weekends.<br />

There’s a strict<br />

door policy, but the<br />

entrance fee includes<br />

a fi rst drink.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP The Milan<br />

outpost of the French<br />

media empire FNAC<br />

is a multi-storey<br />

megastore with


At At Hotel Sonschein, “we had a<br />

balcony which looked out onto<br />

the the snowy hills and across to to<br />

the the Recommended ski Recommended ski slopes. Very magical.” hotels<br />

– TripAdvisor – TripAdvisor Member, York, UK UK<br />

Ready, set, ski.<br />

For the perfect trip to Europe’s most popular ski destinations,<br />

start at TripAdvisor and see what more than 40 million travellers<br />

call the peak places to stay, eat, and play.<br />

Megève, France Cortina D’Ampezzo, Italy<br />

Innsbruck, Austria<br />

Chalet d’Antoine<br />

“Fantastic way to to ski”<br />

La La Grange d’Arly<br />

“Charming stylish ski ski hotel”<br />

Flocons de Sel<br />

“Great skiing and a a lovely town”<br />

Recommended hotels<br />

Mirage Hotel Cortina<br />

“Nice clean rooms, spectacular views”<br />

Hotel Olimpia<br />

“Incredibly kind hotel staff”<br />

Hotel Meuble Oasi<br />

“An easy walk to the Faloria ski lift”<br />

tripadvisor.com tripadvisor.co.uk tripadvisor.de tripadvisor.dk tripadvisor.es tripadvisor.fr<br />

tripadvisor.ie tripadvisor.it tripadvisor.nl tripadvisor.ru tripadvisor.se no.tripadvisor.com<br />

pl.tripadvisor.com tripadvisor.com.br tripadvisor.com.gr tripadvisor.com.tr<br />

Find TripAdvisor hotel reviews at www.hotels.easyJet.com<br />

Recommended hotels<br />

Hotel Weisses Kreuz<br />

“Great location, fantastic breakfast”<br />

Hotel Innsbruck<br />

“Great spa, perfect after skiing”<br />

Dollinger Gasthof<br />

“Quaint ski ski lodge”


162 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />

Milan<br />

Italy<br />

a cool café inside<br />

(2 Via della Palla, tel:<br />

02 869 541). Via<br />

Torino is a great place<br />

to shop for clothes<br />

and accessories at<br />

more reasonable<br />

prices than in the<br />

upmarket boutiques<br />

of the fashion<br />

district to the north<br />

of the Duomo.<br />

SEE The Festival of<br />

African Cinema is<br />

a week-long event<br />

celebrating fi lmmaking<br />

in Africa, Asia<br />

and South America,<br />

and the only one of its<br />

kind in Italy. Running<br />

from 21–27 March, the<br />

festival features more<br />

than 80 productions<br />

at a range of screens<br />

in the city, including<br />

the Spazio Oberdan<br />

(2 Viale Vittorio Veneto,<br />

tel: 02 7740 6300).<br />

GO Today the Brera<br />

quarter is all about<br />

chic shops and bars,<br />

but historically it<br />

was a bohemian area<br />

dominated by art and<br />

artists. It’s home to<br />

the Pinacoteca, one<br />

of the most important<br />

galleries in Italy, as<br />

well as several ancient<br />

historic churches such<br />

as San Simpliciano<br />

and Santa Maria<br />

del Carmine. The<br />

main streets of Via<br />

Moscova, Via Solferino<br />

and Corso Garibaldi<br />

are good places to<br />

hunt for elegant<br />

houseware, clothes<br />

and accessories, while<br />

by night Brera comes<br />

alive, with its narrow<br />

streets fi lled with<br />

stalls selling jewellery<br />

and ethnic crafts.<br />

ESCAPE Como is one<br />

of the most attractive<br />

towns around Milan,<br />

and was an inspiration<br />

to English poets<br />

including Byron.<br />

Originally famous for<br />

making silk, Como<br />

has a long history and<br />

was home in Roman<br />

times to the writers<br />

Pliny the Elder and<br />

Younger. The Lungo<br />

Lario, the lakefront<br />

promenade, is great<br />

for a walk before<br />

dinner at one of the<br />

elegant restaurants<br />

in Piazza Cavour, a<br />

popular meeting point.<br />

Among the sights<br />

are a fi ne Gothic-<br />

Renaissance cathedral<br />

with a baroque dome<br />

and 16th-century<br />

tapestries inside.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The average Italian<br />

consumes 118 litres<br />

of wine a year.<br />

Charles Searson<br />

STARHOTELS<br />

ANDERSON<br />

★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />

If your stay in Milan<br />

has to be a suitably<br />

stylish one, look<br />

no further than<br />

this hotel. Breakfast<br />

included. From<br />

€119, book at<br />

hotels.easyJet.com.<br />

Montpellier<br />

France<br />

DIALLING CODE +33<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London (LGW, LTN)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €20.<br />

Take the bus to<br />

Place de l’Europe.<br />

Tickets: €4.90 single.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Specialites<br />

Marocaines (577<br />

Avenue Léon-Blum,<br />

tel: 04 7540 0321) This<br />

is a great little place<br />

knocking out couscous,<br />

tagines, mint tea and<br />

oriental sweetmeats<br />

at giveaway prices.<br />

EXCLUSIVE La<br />

Reserve Rimbaud (820<br />

Avenue St-Maur, tel: 04<br />

6772 5253) Hide away<br />

in civilised luxury in<br />

this fabulous waterside<br />

setting, where you can<br />

enjoy beautifully cooked<br />

fresh dishes based on<br />

seasonal ingredients<br />

and cooked with an<br />

imaginative twist.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Mi Barrio<br />

(11 Rue du Plan-d’Agde,<br />

tel: 04 9958 1215)<br />

Sit on a high stool at<br />

the bar for a relaxing<br />

glass of wine or slide<br />

behind a table if<br />

you’re also ordering<br />

tapas. Whichever you<br />

choose, soak up the<br />

international languages<br />

spoken all around<br />

you and chill out.<br />

LATE & LIVELY The<br />

Circus (3 Rue Collot,<br />

tel: 04 6760 4205)<br />

A dark and cosy New<br />

York-style bar with<br />

snacks, billiards, leather<br />

sofas and plush lighting,<br />

this place heats up as<br />

the night goes on, with<br />

live music at weekends.<br />

It’s deeply fashionable,<br />

however, so dress up.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Madame Klein<br />

Fringologue is a treasure<br />

trove of previously<br />

loved designer wear<br />

and the proprietor has<br />

a ferocious eye for the<br />

best vintage looks.<br />

She only buys highquality<br />

fashion items<br />

in perfect condition<br />

(14 Rue Ste-Anne,<br />

tel: 04 6791 0699).<br />

GO The Antigone<br />

Olympic swimming<br />

pool is a glorious<br />

leisure centre with pool,<br />

whirlpools, a splashy<br />

river, water chute<br />

and café (195 Avenue<br />

Jacques-Cartier,<br />

tel: 04 6715 6300).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Montpellier is the<br />

fastest growing city in<br />

France and regularly<br />

tops the charts as the<br />

city most French people<br />

would like to move to.<br />

Samantha David<br />

WHETHER LAST MINUTE OR PEAK SEASON, WE ALWAYS<br />

GUARANTEE AVAILABILITY WHEN YOU BOOK ONLINE.<br />

Munich<br />

Germany<br />

DIALLING CODE +49<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Edinburgh,<br />

London (LGW, STN),<br />

Manchester<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €55.<br />

Buses leave for<br />

the centre every<br />

20 minutes. Tickets:<br />

€10 single; €16 return.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Königsquelle (2<br />

Baaderplatz, tel: 089 220<br />

071) It may look like your<br />

average bar from the<br />

outside, but Königsquelle<br />

is renowned for its<br />

fabulous wiener<br />

schnitzels, which are<br />

cooked to perfection by<br />

the bar’s Austrian chef.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Landersdorfer &<br />

Innerhofer (6–8<br />

Hackenstrasse, tel:<br />

089 2601 8637) In<br />

the heart of the city,<br />

this inconspicuous<br />

restaurant is an insider’s<br />

tip among local foodies.<br />

There’s no bragging and<br />

no brash advertising,<br />

just exemplary food<br />

and service. Try the<br />

restaurant’s signature<br />

– a surprise set menu.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Kranz (12<br />

Hans-Sachs-Strasse,<br />

tel: 089 2166 8250) Rub<br />

shoulders with hip young<br />

things from Munich’s<br />

boho Glockenbach<br />

district at this minimalist<br />

café-bar, which prides<br />

itself on using only<br />

organic ingredients.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Harlander (8<br />

Braühausstrasse, tel:<br />

089 2324 1652) Just<br />

down the road from the<br />

Hofbräuhaus, this cool<br />

bar combines 1970s<br />

retro with modern, urban<br />

chic. The perfect place to<br />

chill into the early hours.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP For a true taste<br />

of elegant Munich, head<br />

to one of the city’s oldest<br />

department stores,<br />

Lodenfrey. As well as<br />

designer gear, this store<br />

houses a stunning<br />

array of traditional local<br />

costume and is the place<br />

to get your Lederhosen<br />

(7 Maff eistrasse).<br />

SEE If you’re visiting the<br />

city in the fi rst two weeks<br />

of March, don’t miss<br />

the city’s carnival, or<br />

Fasching. Various events<br />

take place from costume<br />

balls to public events in<br />

the pedestrianised zone.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

If Munich’s bid for the<br />

2018 Winter Olympics is<br />

successful, the city will<br />

become the fi rst to host<br />

both the winter and<br />

summer events.<br />

Jill Henne<br />

Europcar guarantees easyJet<br />

passengers great car rental deals.<br />

For your discounted price book<br />

at easyJet.com or visit the<br />

Europcar desk.


Unforgettable Moments<br />

Where short breaks become big occasions!<br />

Experience fantastic moments in Germany’s biggest theme<br />

park! With more than 100 breathtaking rides and spectacular<br />

shows – embedded into 13 European themed areas<br />

– action, fun and unforgettable moments are guaranteed.<br />

Each season is waiting for you with new surprises. Beautiful<br />

decoration and themed festivals provide plenty of<br />

variety all year round. After an eventful day, you can relax at<br />

Info-Line +49 (0) 18 05/77 66 88* · www.europa-park.co.uk · Motorway A5 Karlsruhe - Basel · Exit 57b Europa-Park<br />

Open daily from 9 April until 6 November <strong>2011</strong> from 9 am to 6 pm and from 26 November <strong>2011</strong> until 8 January 2012 (except 24/25 December <strong>2011</strong>)<br />

*14 cent/min. for calls from the German landline network, prices for mobile and international calls may differ<br />

blue fire Megacoaster – powered by GAZPROM<br />

one of the world’s leading theme parks<br />

Win a trip to<br />

Europa-Park!<br />

Participate and win at<br />

www.europapark.de/easyJet<br />

Europa-Park’s 4-star hotel resort or in cosy log-cabins at the<br />

camp resort. Whatever you wish for – Europa-Park will offer<br />

you unforgettable moments.<br />

With easyJet to Europa-Park!<br />

Book your flight to “Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg”! Bus shuttle<br />

or car rental is available at the airport to get to Europa-Park.<br />

For further information and booking please visit www.europa-park.co.uk<br />

“Atlantica SuperSplash” Greek themed village Europa-Park Hotel Resort<br />

Take Part<br />

& Win


164 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />

Murcia<br />

Spain<br />

DIALLING CODE +34<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Bristol,<br />

London (LGW)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com. A<br />

taxi to Murcia costs €45<br />

and €35 to Torrevieja.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Mármol<br />

(142 Avenida Río<br />

Guadalentín, tel: 968<br />

840 705) On the<br />

outskirts of the city,<br />

Mármol off ers outdoor<br />

dining with views across<br />

to the mountains<br />

and the Fuensanta<br />

Sanctuary. It has<br />

fantastic rice dishes with<br />

veggie options, as well<br />

as rabbit and seafood<br />

paellas. Also on the<br />

menu are grilled meats<br />

or fi sh. For dessert, try<br />

the tasty rice pudding.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Hotel<br />

Hispano (3 Calle Radio<br />

Murcia, tel: 968 216<br />

152) An up-market<br />

hotel off ering a varied<br />

à la carte menu in plush<br />

surroundings. Head<br />

chef Joaquín Abellán<br />

changes the excellent<br />

stews on a daily basis<br />

and also off ers dishes<br />

such as sea bream with<br />

honey and spices.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Bar El<br />

Perela (5 Calle Ruiperez,<br />

tel: 968 935 198) Just<br />

off Gran Vi in the Plaza<br />

de las Flores zone, Bar El<br />

Perela off ers some great<br />

tapas and a relaxed<br />

atmosphere in which to<br />

have a drink and a snack<br />

before moving on to<br />

something more lively.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Monroe’s Rock Cafe<br />

(71 Calle Caballero de<br />

Rodas, Torrevieja, tel:<br />

966 705 325) If you like<br />

it heavy, then Monroe’s<br />

is the place. The genial<br />

owners play pretty<br />

much anything on<br />

request – as long as the<br />

songs are hard and fast.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Try Torrevieja’s<br />

street market on Friday<br />

mornings for some<br />

real bargains.<br />

SEE At Auditorio Victor<br />

Villegas, a series of fi ve<br />

concerts entitled Las<br />

Noches de Blue Note<br />

Records is taking place<br />

throughout the month.<br />

The majority of the<br />

artists will be musicians<br />

on the legendary Blue<br />

Note record label, and<br />

Benin-born guitarist<br />

Lionel Loueke is<br />

appearing on 3 March<br />

(auditoriomurcia.org).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

This year, it’s carnival<br />

on the cheap! In<br />

Cartagena, the budget<br />

for festivities has been<br />

reduced by €70,000.<br />

David Jones<br />

Nantes<br />

France<br />

DIALLING CODE +33<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

Geneva, London<br />

(LGW), Lyon, Toulouse<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €30.<br />

The Tan bus runs<br />

to Nantes South<br />

train station and the city<br />

centre. Tickets: €7.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Le Resto<br />

Revues (2 Rue de<br />

Refuge) For little over<br />

€10, you can enjoy<br />

homemade dishes such<br />

as pork with coconut<br />

milk and lemon. Try the<br />

almond Charlotte with<br />

rhubarb sauce.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Le<br />

Manoir de la Régate<br />

(155 Route de Gachet,<br />

tel: 02 4018 0297) This<br />

fabulous expensive<br />

gourmet restaurant is<br />

set in a fairytale castle<br />

and serves wonderful<br />

food. Order anything<br />

and it will be sublime.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Le Briord<br />

(3 Rue de Briord, tel: 02<br />

5188 9206) The<br />

regular bon vivants<br />

here love their roasted<br />

Camembert nights,<br />

horror fi lms, Nintendo<br />

tournaments and other<br />

games. It’s all incredibly<br />

good humoured,<br />

powered by fl avoured<br />

rum and glasses of wine.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Le Théâtre (22 Rue<br />

Scribe, tel: 02 4069<br />

7449) Head here for<br />

electro and house,<br />

guest DJs at weekends,<br />

and house cocktails<br />

and other concoctions<br />

all week long. There’s<br />

a friendly and warm<br />

atmosphere, with bar<br />

snacks at midnight.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP La Malle des<br />

Indes is just the remedy<br />

for those searching for<br />

spring – fab clothes,<br />

interior décor, incense,<br />

accessories and all<br />

sorts of bric-a-brac<br />

imported directly from<br />

India can be found here<br />

(2 Place de l’Ecluse).<br />

SEE The Spanish<br />

Cinema Festival runs<br />

from 24 March to 5 April,<br />

a showcase for more<br />

than 50 fi lms. All the<br />

latest releases, including<br />

20 French premieres,<br />

will be shown, and there<br />

will also be round-table<br />

discussions and an<br />

exhibition (cinespagnolnantes.com).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Jules Verne, author of<br />

Around the World in<br />

80 Days and Journey to<br />

the Centre of the Earth,<br />

was born in Nantes on<br />

8 February 1828.<br />

Samantha David<br />

Naples<br />

Italy<br />

DIALLING CODE +39<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

Berlin, Geneva, Ibiza,<br />

Liverpool, London<br />

(LGW, STN), Madrid,<br />

Milan (MXP), Paris<br />

(ORY), Venice<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €35.<br />

The Alibus shuttle<br />

stops at the train<br />

station and Piazza<br />

Municipio. Tickets: €4.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 O’<br />

Scugnizz’ (72 Galleria<br />

Umberto, tel: 081 401<br />

199) This casual eatery<br />

tucked in Galleria<br />

Umberto is a great spot<br />

for espresso, snacks<br />

and people-watching.<br />

EXCLUSIVE ‘A<br />

Fenestella (23 Via<br />

Marechiaro, tel: 081<br />

769 0020) ‘A Fenestella<br />

exudes Old World charm<br />

with its elegant décor,<br />

captivating views and<br />

live piano music on<br />

weekends. Neapolitanstyle<br />

seafood dishes and<br />

homemade pastries are<br />

the house specialities.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY<br />

Perditempo (8 Via San<br />

Pietro a Majella) As the<br />

name implies, it’s easy<br />

to “lose time” here<br />

as you sip wine while<br />

picking through the<br />

selection of books.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Madras Lounge (4 Via<br />

Fascione) Here you’ll<br />

fi nd warm lighting, soft<br />

couches and people<br />

grooving to world beat<br />

and Latin music.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

GO From the little alleys<br />

to the peaceful garden<br />

of Santa Chiara, Naples’<br />

historic city centre<br />

dates back to the Greek<br />

settlement of Neapolis<br />

and is a UNESCO World<br />

Heritage Site.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Naples’ Castel dell’Ovo,<br />

is so named because of<br />

a legend claiming that<br />

Latin poet Virgil placed<br />

an enchanted egg<br />

in its foundations.<br />

Tui Cameron<br />

ART<br />

CHIAJA<br />

SHOP Art Chiaja<br />

off ers uniquely<br />

Neapolitan souvenirs:<br />

delicate cameos,<br />

coral jewellery,<br />

gouache illustrations,<br />

ceramics, Pulcinella<br />

fi gurines and more<br />

(238 Via Chiaia).


Buy the Buff Snood<br />

& Bloc Ski Goggles<br />

together & Save<br />

£5/€7.50<br />

Hitting the<br />

slopes?<br />

See the latest ski<br />

range on board today<br />

(See pages 4 and 5 in Bistro & Boutique)<br />

SKI ISSUE<br />

Boutique B t & Bistro<br />

January - April <strong>2011</strong><br />

See pages 4 and 5<br />

in Boutique and Bistro<br />

Subject to availability.<br />

Better er<br />

together er<br />

Great products to share<br />

Subject to availability. Available on selected aircraft only


166 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />

Newcastle<br />

UK<br />

DIALLING CODE +44<br />

CURRENCY £<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Alicante,<br />

Barcelona, Belfast (BFS),<br />

Bristol, Faro, Geneva, Ibiza,<br />

London (STN), Majorca,<br />

Málaga, Malta, Menorca,<br />

Nice, Paris (CDG)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs £18.<br />

The Metro<br />

services the city<br />

centre. Tickets: £3<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Arami<br />

(6–10 Leazes Park<br />

Road) A bright venue<br />

that’s one of the only<br />

places in the UK to serve<br />

jackfruit, the national<br />

fruit of Bangladesh.<br />

This Indian restaurant<br />

prides itself on sourcing<br />

organic produce.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Blackfriars (Friars<br />

Street, tel: 0191 261<br />

5945) Dating back to<br />

1239, the venue has a<br />

horseshoe of buildings<br />

sheltering a medieval<br />

courtyard, and it’s<br />

quite possibly the<br />

oldest purpose-built<br />

restaurant in the UK. It’s<br />

one of Newcastle’s bestregarded<br />

restaurants,<br />

with inclusions in the<br />

Michelin guide.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Benton Ale<br />

House (Front Street,<br />

Benton) This is a homely,<br />

no-nonsense, traditional<br />

bar that draws in locals,<br />

shoppers and business<br />

people alike with its wide<br />

range of real ales.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Madame Koo’s<br />

(Collingwood Street,<br />

tel: 0191 261 8271)<br />

Boasting Newcastle’s<br />

only octagonal<br />

dancefl oor, Madame<br />

Koo’s is an Easternfl<br />

avour bar that pumps<br />

out Kylie, Sugababes<br />

and Luther Van Dross<br />

with a knowing wink.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Culture vultures<br />

will love the BALTIC shop<br />

in the BALTIC Centre<br />

for Contemporary Art<br />

in Gateshead. Artistdesigned<br />

products,<br />

homewares, T-shirts<br />

and design-led gifts can<br />

be found in abundance<br />

(Gateshead Quays,<br />

South Shore Road).<br />

SEE Newcastle is<br />

football-mad and<br />

at the Discovery<br />

Museum decades of<br />

rare Newcastle United<br />

memorabilia will be<br />

dusted off in the exciting<br />

exhibition, NUFC: For<br />

the Love of Football<br />

(Blandford Square).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The world’s fi rst dog<br />

show was held in<br />

Newcastle in 1859.<br />

Michelle Ord<br />

French<br />

mortgage<br />

best buys<br />

Nice<br />

France<br />

DIALLING CODE +33<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

Belfast (BFS), Berlin,<br />

Bristol, Brussels,<br />

Edinburgh, Geneva,<br />

Liverpool, London<br />

(LGW, LTN, STN), Lyon,<br />

Newcastle, Paris (CDG,<br />

ORY), Rome (FCO)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €30.<br />

Bus 98 stops at<br />

Nice’s Old Town<br />

and the Gare Routière.<br />

Tickets: €4.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 La<br />

Fougasserie (5 Rue de<br />

la Poissonnerie, tel: 04<br />

9380 9245) Go local and<br />

head to this Old Town<br />

bakery. Try the fougasse<br />

(bread) or Niçoise-style<br />

pizza topped with olives,<br />

tomatoes and bacon.<br />

UP TO €30 Le Café<br />

de Turin (2 Place<br />

Garibaldi, tel: 04 9362<br />

2952) Take an early<br />

lunch to be sure of a<br />

place and sit under the<br />

enchanting arcades that<br />

surround this institution.<br />

By far the most popular<br />

At IPF we make the process of getting<br />

French mortgages simple - Just like<br />

our french mortgage best buy tables.<br />

Get the latest rates for France and<br />

Italy, Portugal and Spain by visiting<br />

internationalprivatefi nance.com<br />

or call one of our bilingual team on<br />

+44 (0)207 484 4600<br />

seafood restaurant in<br />

the city, it off ers bustle<br />

and a theatre-like<br />

performance as the<br />

shellfi sh is skillfully<br />

prepared in front of your<br />

eyes and served rapidly<br />

on large tiered platters.<br />

UP TO €50 Le Fusion<br />

(6 Quai Antione 1er,<br />

Monaco, tel: +377 9797<br />

9595) The owner of the<br />

well-known Stars’N’Bars<br />

has opened this cool,<br />

sophisticated restaurant<br />

upstairs for the over-<br />

20s. Expect a fantastic<br />

view of the harbour,<br />

plus sushi and Asian<br />

specialities. Evenings<br />

only, closed on Sundays.<br />

EXCLUSIVE La<br />

Bastide Saint-Antoine<br />

(48 Avenue Henri<br />

Dunant, Grasse, tel:<br />

04 9370 9494) With<br />

a wonderful picturepostcard<br />

backdrop and<br />

a distinctly Provençal<br />

atmosphere, this<br />

hotel-restaurant set in<br />

enchanting gardens<br />

is just outside Grasse.<br />

Owner Jacques Chibois,<br />

one of the Côte d’Azur’s<br />

leading chefs, concocts<br />

fragrant, delicate<br />

cuisine featuring<br />

truffl es, foie gras,<br />

crayfi sh and seabass.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Snug<br />

and Cellar (22 Rue<br />

Droite) Picnic tables<br />

fi ll the corner terrace<br />

surrounding the Old<br />

Town’s newest pub.<br />

Go for the happy hour<br />

specials, which include<br />

fruit punch and cocktails.<br />

LIVE MUSIC<br />

Le Karé(ment)<br />

(10 Avenue Princesse<br />

Grace, Monaco, tel: +377<br />

Type of<br />

Mortgage<br />

Based on a loan amount of €250,000 and a 20 year term,<br />

rates correct as of 08/02/11. Lower interest rates will be<br />

available at different LTVs (loan to values)<br />

9999 2020) Occasional<br />

live concerts are<br />

staged at this highly<br />

contemporary congress<br />

centre, right on the<br />

seafront. It’s ladies’ night<br />

on Thursdays from 7pm.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Le Flag (6 Rue Eugène<br />

Emmanuel, tel: 04<br />

9387 2967) Colour and<br />

exuberance drip off the<br />

walls in this popular<br />

gay club-come-lounge<br />

venue. Cocktails and<br />

snacks are served to the<br />

sounds of the resident<br />

DJ, and the weekend<br />

fi nds this place grooving<br />

until the early hours.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Cours Saleya,<br />

Nice’s most emblematic<br />

street, is home to a<br />

famous fruit and fl ower<br />

market. Every morning<br />

(except for Mondays,<br />

when the thrift and<br />

antiques stalls move in)<br />

fi nds you surrounded<br />

by vendors of candied<br />

fruit and local produce,<br />

including lavender, soaps<br />

and other Provençal<br />

MARS AUX<br />

MUSEES<br />

SEE Throughout<br />

March, Nice’s art<br />

museums and<br />

galleries – including<br />

Musée de Matisse,<br />

MAMAC and Galerie<br />

de la Ponchettes –<br />

open their doors for<br />

nocturnal visits.<br />

Max<br />

LTV<br />

Starting<br />

Rates from Interest<br />

Only<br />

trinkets. Nearby Alziari is<br />

a magnet for those with<br />

a penchant for all things<br />

olive-based. Fragrant<br />

oils and tubs of fresh<br />

olives attract the<br />

hordes (14 Rue St<br />

François de Paule).<br />

GO Nice’s 67th<br />

International Fair (from<br />

12–27 March) covers<br />

everything from home<br />

and decoration to<br />

wellbeing and wine.<br />

More than 1,500<br />

exhibitors take over the<br />

city, where infl uences of<br />

the Mediterranean and<br />

further afi eld converge<br />

for one of Europe’s<br />

most popular fairs.<br />

ESCAPE Monaco is<br />

within easy reach of Nice<br />

and buses leave every<br />

15 minutes from Gare<br />

Routière. Once there,<br />

pick up a street map and<br />

take a pleasant stroll<br />

around the ultra-rich<br />

country. Visit the<br />

Golden Circle, which<br />

hosts all the luxury<br />

labels, although more<br />

aff ordable options can<br />

be found at Condamine<br />

market, with its tiny<br />

boutiques and shops.<br />

The best place to start or<br />

end your visit is at Palais<br />

Princier, where you can<br />

take a guided tour and<br />

enjoy the breathtaking<br />

views over the port.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Little more than a<br />

century ago, much<br />

of Cap Ferrat was the<br />

domain of just one man:<br />

Leopold II of Belgium,<br />

the former proprietor of<br />

Congo and the largest<br />

landowner the world<br />

has ever seen.<br />

John Brown<br />

Monthly<br />

payments<br />

Cap & Collar 100% 3.40% No €1437<br />

Cap & Collar 80% 2.90% No €1374<br />

Tracker 80% 2.55% Yes €531


UNDER THE HIGH PATRONAGE OF<br />

H.S.H. SOVEREIGN PRINCE OF MONACO<br />

MONTE-CARLO<br />

ROLEX MASTERS<br />

www.epi.mc 10115 Copyright Andrew Davidson www.theartworksinc.com<br />

From April 9 th to17 th<br />

ATP<br />

Award of<br />

Excellence<br />

2010<br />

The best players<br />

in the world<br />

MONTE CARLO COUNTRY CLUB<br />

Tel. (+377) 97 98 7000<br />

www.montecarlorolexmasters.mc<br />

156Lx105H EasyJet.indd 1 6/01/11 12:37:47


168 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />

Olbia<br />

Italy<br />

DIALLING CODE +39<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

Berlin, Bristol, Geneva,<br />

London (LGW), Lyon,<br />

Milan (MXP), Paris (ORY)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com<br />

A local taxi costs €15.<br />

The Linea Urbana<br />

bus goes to Olbia<br />

every 30 minutes.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Da<br />

Gesuino (2 Via Romana,<br />

tel: 0789 22395) Wellknown<br />

for its typical<br />

fi sh dishes, Da Gesuino<br />

is a characteristic<br />

restaurant in the centre<br />

of Olbia where you’ll<br />

feel right at home.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Gallura<br />

(145 Corso Umberto,<br />

tel: 0789 24648)<br />

A tavern restaurant<br />

with opulent fi ve-star<br />

service, this remains<br />

the only restaurant in<br />

the city to have won<br />

a Michelin star. The<br />

onion soup and mutton<br />

broth complement<br />

the selection of<br />

fresh seafood in the<br />

colder months.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Vignando<br />

(2 Corso Umberto, tel:<br />

0789 21653) Typical<br />

wine bar in the centre of<br />

the city, where you can<br />

taste the best Sardinian<br />

red and white wines<br />

or just have a coff ee<br />

or a cocktail.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

D-Ivan (Via dei<br />

Maniscalchi) Fashionable<br />

club where you can drink<br />

the best cocktails, listen<br />

to live Latin American<br />

music, have a bash at<br />

karaoke or just natter<br />

with your friends.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Olbia’s main<br />

street that leads to<br />

the bay is called Corso<br />

Umberto, and is cut<br />

off to traffi c after 7pm.<br />

The lower end of the<br />

boulevard, near the<br />

bay, holds a variety of<br />

markets with antiques<br />

and food stands that<br />

add a little more colour<br />

to the evening.<br />

GO A few kilometres<br />

north of Olbia begins<br />

the wonderful scenery<br />

of the Costa Smeralda,<br />

an enchanting side of<br />

north Sardinia, off ering<br />

the possibilities to enjoy<br />

an unspoiled landscape<br />

with special coloured sea<br />

and breathtaking coast<br />

with its renowned white<br />

sandy beaches and<br />

numerous small ports.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Olbia had been named<br />

several times in its<br />

history. The name seems<br />

to have Greek origins,<br />

and Olbia polis in Greek<br />

means “the happy city”.<br />

ciaosardinia.com<br />

Palermo<br />

Italy<br />

DIALLING CODE +39<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London (LGW),<br />

Milan (MXP), Paris<br />

(ORY), Rome (FCO)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €50.<br />

The Trinacria<br />

Express goes<br />

to the central station.<br />

Tickets: €5.50.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

La Gondola (144 Via<br />

Principe di Scordia, tel:<br />

091 331 748) Despite<br />

the Venetian name,<br />

this is probably the<br />

last of the authentic<br />

Sicilian taverns, with<br />

no-nonsense traditional<br />

home-cooking.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Bye<br />

Bye Blues (23 Via<br />

del Garofalo, tel: 091<br />

684 1415) Adjacent to<br />

Mondello, this awardwinning<br />

restaurant<br />

searches the world for<br />

the ingredients that<br />

make its dishes so<br />

unique, such as<br />

lasagne with goat’s<br />

cheese ricotta and<br />

piacentino cheese.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY<br />

Mi Manda Picone (59<br />

Via Paternostro, tel: 091<br />

616 0660) Come here<br />

for the best local, Italian<br />

and international wines<br />

served outside in the<br />

hippest area in town.<br />

Nibble on a piece of<br />

Sicilian fi nger food, too.<br />

LATE & LIVELY Reloj<br />

(5 Via Pasquale Calvi, tel:<br />

091 611 9698) Housed in<br />

a former cinema, this is<br />

one of the see-and-beseen<br />

places in Palermo.<br />

Eat, drink and listen to<br />

live music, or just peoplewatch<br />

the night away.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Pizzo & Pizzo<br />

has opened a branch<br />

in a central location,<br />

where clients can not<br />

only buy from the vast<br />

assortment of local food<br />

and wines, but also sit<br />

and savour some of<br />

the specialities in the<br />

on-site restaurant<br />

(1P Via XII Gennaio).<br />

SEE PPS: Paesaggio<br />

e Popolo Della Sicilia, an<br />

exhibit comprising 22<br />

local artists’ work, takes<br />

a look at the island.<br />

Part of the installation<br />

includes a documentary<br />

fi lm by Oscar-winning<br />

director Giuseppe<br />

Tornatore (Museo<br />

D’Arte Contemporanea<br />

Palazzo Riso, 365 Corso<br />

Vittorio Emanuele).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The fi rst name of<br />

Palermo, dating back<br />

to the eighth century<br />

BC, was Zyz. In the<br />

Phoenician language,<br />

this meant “fl ower”.<br />

Conchita Vecchio<br />

Circ. Nord. Direzione Golfo Aranci - Olbia | Tel: +39 0789554000 | reservation@geovillage.it<br />

TAXI<br />

Paris<br />

France<br />

DIALLING CODE +33<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Agadir, Athens,<br />

Biarritz, Belfast (BFS),<br />

Berlin, Brest, Brindisi<br />

Bristol, Budapest,<br />

Casablanca, Catania,<br />

Copenhagen, Corsica<br />

(Ajaccio), Corsica<br />

(Bastia), Dubrovnik,<br />

Edinburgh, Faro, Fez,<br />

Geneva, Glasgow,<br />

Helsinki, Ibiza, Krakow,<br />

Lisbon, Liverpool,<br />

Ljubljana, London (LTN),<br />

Madrid, Majorca, Málaga,<br />

Marrakech, Menorca,<br />

Milan (MXP, LIN),<br />

Mykonos, Naples,<br />

Newcastle, Nice, Olbia,<br />

Palermo, Pisa, Porto,<br />

Prague, Rome (CIA),<br />

Split, Tangier, Toulouse,<br />

Venice, Zagreb<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

ORLY<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com. A<br />

local taxi costs €35.<br />

The Orly bus<br />

stops at Place<br />

Denfert-Rochereau.<br />

Tickets: €6.40.<br />

The RER B4<br />

goes to Châtelet.<br />

Trains run from 6am–<br />

11pm. Tickets: €9.85.<br />

The C2 line takes<br />

you straight to<br />

Invalides. Tickets:<br />

€7.60 return.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

ROISSY-CHARLES<br />

DE GAULLE<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €45.<br />

The Roissy Bus<br />

stops at Opéra.<br />

Tickets: €9.10.<br />

Take the RER B3<br />

to Gare du Nord.<br />

Tickets: €8.80.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 Chartier<br />

(7 Rue du Faubourg<br />

Montmartre, 9th, tel:<br />

01 4770 8629) This<br />

bustling turn-of-the-<br />

20th-century worker’s<br />

canteen is still one of<br />

the best deals in Paris.<br />

Traditional French fare,<br />

such as steak frites<br />

and oeufs mayonnaise,<br />

is served by somewhat<br />

brusque but extremely<br />

effi cient waiters.<br />

UP TO €30 Glou<br />

(101 Rue Vieille du<br />

HÔTEL<br />

LEBRON<br />

★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />

Theatres, museums<br />

and the National Opera<br />

all sit close by, allowing<br />

you to explore cultural<br />

Paris from here.<br />

Breakfast included.<br />

From €112, book at<br />

hotels.easyJet.com.<br />

SPECIAL OFFER - EASTER <strong>2011</strong><br />

Package of 1, 2 and 3 nights half board<br />

from €67.00 per person, including gourmet<br />

<br />

reservations free upgrade to superior room!


© Bal du Moulin Rouge <strong>2011</strong> - Moulin Rouge ® - 1-1028499<br />

DISCOVER “FÉERIE”,<br />

THE SHOW OF THE MOST FAMOUS CABARET IN THE WORLD !<br />

DINNER & SHOW AT 7PM FROM 150€ • SHOW AT 9PM: 102€, AT 11PM : 92€<br />

Montmartre - 82, Boulevard de Clichy - 75018 Paris<br />

Reservations : 33(0)1 53 09 82 82 - www.moulin-rouge.com


170 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />

Paris<br />

France<br />

Temple, tel: 01 4274<br />

4432) A trendy neobistro<br />

overlooking the<br />

gardens of the Picasso<br />

Museum, specialising<br />

in organic, free-range<br />

fi sh, meats and<br />

vegetables. Lunch is<br />

more casual, while<br />

dinner attracts the<br />

hip Marais crowd.<br />

UP TO €50 Julien<br />

(16 Rue du Faubourg<br />

St-Denis, 10th, tel: 01<br />

4770 1206) The heart<br />

of a bustling ethnic<br />

market street is an<br />

unlikely location for<br />

a gorgeous brasserie,<br />

but once you slope<br />

inside you soon<br />

forget about the<br />

stalls outside. On<br />

the menu are classic<br />

French dishes<br />

such as cassoulet,<br />

sole meunière and<br />

profi teroles with<br />

Valrhona hot<br />

chocolate. Valet<br />

parking is available<br />

for those who arrive<br />

in true style.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Les<br />

Ombres (Musée du<br />

Quai Branly, 27 Quai<br />

Branly, 7th, tel: 01<br />

4753 6800) Relax<br />

in a striking setting<br />

beneath a glass-andmetal<br />

ceiling, with<br />

views of the Eiff el Tower<br />

and the Seine. The<br />

exotic décor mirrors<br />

the museum’s primitive<br />

arts collection, but<br />

the food is decidedly<br />

contemporary French.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY L’Entracte<br />

des Gobelins (75<br />

Avenue des Gobelins,<br />

tel: 01 4331 0229)<br />

Located opposite two<br />

movie theatres, this<br />

typical French bar is<br />

a great place to stop<br />

for a quick meal, a<br />

baguette sandwich<br />

or just a drink, and is<br />

open every day from<br />

7am to 2am. There<br />

are newspapers,<br />

magazines, several<br />

TV screens and<br />

friendly staff , plus<br />

a festive atmosphere<br />

for St Patrick’s Day.<br />

LIVE MUSIC Pop In<br />

(105 Rue Amelot,<br />

tel: 01 4805 5611) This<br />

scruff y little music<br />

bar on the edge of<br />

the Marais and Bastille<br />

districts has live<br />

music DJs on Fridays<br />

and Saturdays, open<br />

mic nights on Sundays,<br />

and live bands from<br />

all over the world<br />

on the tiny basement<br />

stage on Mondays<br />

to Thursdays – without<br />

an entrance fee.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Favela Chic (18<br />

Rue du Faubourg du<br />

Temple, tel: 01 4021<br />

3814) This popular<br />

Brazilian restaurantbar-nightclub<br />

near<br />

République is one of the<br />

sure bets in east Paris<br />

for lively booty shaking<br />

until dawn. Entry is<br />

free from Tuesday to<br />

Thursday, and €10<br />

(including a drink) on<br />

Friday and Saturday,<br />

when the DJs get the<br />

crowd up on the tables<br />

(literally) until 4am.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP If Julia Child<br />

has inspired you to try<br />

your hand at French<br />

cooking, a good place<br />

to start is with the<br />

best cooking supplies.<br />

Check out the newly<br />

opened Atelier<br />

Cuisiner de Geneviève<br />

Lethu (Passy Plaza,<br />

53 Rue de Passy,<br />

tel: 01 4525 8484).<br />

SEE Paris is the place<br />

for cinema-lovers, and<br />

this month you can<br />

catch the Printemps<br />

du Cinéma festival<br />

from 20–22 March,<br />

with all fi lms just €3.50<br />

– a real bargain in this<br />

city (printempsdu<br />

cinema.com).<br />

GO St-Germaindes-Prés<br />

(6th) was<br />

once considered the<br />

intellectual district<br />

of Paris, but the<br />

existentialists and<br />

surrealists of the<br />

1950s and 1960s have<br />

been slowly replaced<br />

by high-end art<br />

galleries, home décor<br />

shops and fashion<br />

boutiques. Spend an<br />

afternoon sipping<br />

a crème on the terrace<br />

CHÂTEAU<br />

D’ANGERS<br />

ESCAPE Angers<br />

is one of the most<br />

vibrant towns in the<br />

Loire Valley. Escape<br />

the city and visit the<br />

historic chateau and its<br />

Apocalypse Tapestry,<br />

the majestic cathedral<br />

at the top of the stairs.<br />

of historic Les Deux<br />

Magots (6 Place<br />

St-Germain-des-<br />

Prés) and enjoy the<br />

swank procession of<br />

the Left Bank’s most<br />

fashionable locals.<br />

GO Bastille is not only<br />

the historic rallying<br />

point for all public<br />

protests since the<br />

French Revolution: the<br />

neighbourhood is also<br />

known for its many<br />

bars and nightclubs,<br />

the Opéra Bastille,<br />

and one of the largest<br />

open-air markets in<br />

Paris (Thursday and<br />

Sunday mornings).<br />

ESCAPE The historic<br />

town of Beauvais, just<br />

45 minutes’ north<br />

of Paris by train, is<br />

known for its<br />

magnifi cent Cathedral<br />

St Pierre, which has<br />

the tallest vault in<br />

the world. Also<br />

worth a look is the<br />

contemporary tapestry<br />

museum (beauvais.fr).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

In the fi rst room of<br />

Musée Carnavalet,<br />

which is dedicated to<br />

the history of Paris,<br />

you’ll fi nd a large<br />

cylindrical ceramic<br />

container with a spout<br />

at the bottom. No, it<br />

isn’t a large beer keg.<br />

It’s what all bourgeois<br />

households used to<br />

hold water for the<br />

week before indoor<br />

plumbing was<br />

widespread. It even<br />

had a layer of charcoal<br />

to fi lter the water<br />

(which was carried<br />

in buckets from the<br />

Seine by the poor).<br />

Heather Stimmler-Hall<br />

TENUTA SAN PIETRO LUXURY HOTEL & RESTAURANT<br />

Ideal location for: Weddings, Cooking lessons,<br />

Wine tasting, Olive oil tasting & Relaxing weekends<br />

Via per San Pietro, 22/26. San Pietro a Marcigliano. Lucca<br />

Tel: +39 0583.92.66.76 | Gsm: +39 392.989.24.97 | Fax: +39 0583.92.66.78<br />

info@tenuta-san-pietro.com | www.tenuta-san-pietro.com<br />

Pisa<br />

Italy<br />

DIALLING CODE +39<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Berlin, Bristol,<br />

London (LGW, LTN),<br />

Paris (ORY)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €7.<br />

Route 3 stops<br />

at Pisa Central.<br />

Tickets: €0.77.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Pizzeria<br />

Bella Napoli (44 Via del<br />

Borghetto, tel: 050 578<br />

520) Naples claims to<br />

have the best pizza in<br />

Italy, and this pizzeria<br />

creates them in the<br />

traditional Neapolitan<br />

way. Order the classic<br />

margherita with<br />

mozzarella di bufala, or<br />

topped with anchovies<br />

and capers, cooked in<br />

a wood-burning oven.<br />

EXCLUSIVE India<br />

(52 Via Roma, tel:<br />

050 48513) Expect<br />

authentic Indian<br />

cuisine served in a<br />

sumptuous atmosphere<br />

with traditional<br />

music playing in the<br />

background. Fit<br />

for a maharajah.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Caff etteria<br />

delle Vettovaglie (33<br />

Piazza delle Vettovaglie)<br />

A café in the old market<br />

place, where you can<br />

relax after dinner with<br />

a cocktail or glass<br />

of wine and listen<br />

to great live jazz.<br />

LATE & LIVELY La<br />

Bugia (Via San Frediano,<br />

tel: 050 500 220) A<br />

great place to while<br />

away the night with big<br />

sandwiches, DJ music<br />

and plenty of beer.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Upmarket shops<br />

on Corso Italia on the<br />

other side of the Arno<br />

off er the new spring/<br />

summer collection of<br />

fi ne Italian fashion. If it’s<br />

food you want to take<br />

home, fi ll your pantry<br />

shelves with typical<br />

Tuscan products from<br />

shops on Via St Maria.<br />

SEE The community of<br />

Montopoli in Val D’Arno,<br />

in collaboration with the<br />

Slow Food movement,<br />

presents a gastronomic<br />

feast from 16–17 March<br />

(montopoli.net). If<br />

you prefer culture<br />

to cravings, Teatro<br />

Politeama in Cascina<br />

presents a rock drama<br />

inspired by the timeless<br />

songs of the Fab Four,<br />

from 24–25 March<br />

(lacittadelteatro.it).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Pisa-born Galileo<br />

Galilei was under house<br />

arrest in Florence for<br />

heresy, and forbidden to<br />

discuss his astronomic<br />

discoveries with anyone,<br />

when he died in 1642.<br />

Silvia Falsaperla


BEST<br />

VALUE IN<br />

PARIS<br />

The Hotel Taylor<br />

will delight both you<br />

and your wallet<br />

ON THE RIGHT BANK, in a peaceful,<br />

secluded position on a quiet one-way street<br />

just outside the bustling centre of Paris and<br />

within walking distance of Notre Dame, the<br />

family-run boutique Hotel Taylor is the<br />

perfect base from which to enjoy a romantic<br />

break in the City of Light. Just a short walk<br />

from the lively Marais district and close to<br />

major department stores, the Place des<br />

Vosges, Bastille and Canal Saint Martin, the<br />

hotel’s location is unbeatable.<br />

With a charming and cosy ambience as<br />

SPECIAL<br />

OFFER<br />

Special rates for<br />

March, visit<br />

paristaylorhotel.com<br />

for more info<br />

ADVERTISING PROMOTION<br />

well as 37 newly refurbished, soundproofed<br />

guestrooms and modern, romantic<br />

interiors, you’ll be tempted to stay in, as well<br />

as to go out. Hotel amenities include free<br />

WiFi, a fl at-screen TV in every bedroom and<br />

a sumptuous buff et breakfast. And the<br />

hotel’s attentive and experienced staff are<br />

always on hand to help with restaurant<br />

suggestions, taxi bookings and more.<br />

Last but not least, Hotel Taylor is<br />

outstanding value for money – with single<br />

rooms from just €80 and doubles from €91,<br />

it is the hotel of choice for savvy travellers.<br />

Hôtel Taylor, 6 rue Taylor, 75010 Paris,<br />

tel: +33 (0)1 4240 1101<br />

Email: contact@paristaylorhotel.com<br />

paristaylorhotel.com


172 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />

Porto<br />

Portugal<br />

DIALLING CODE +351<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

Geneva, London (LGW),<br />

Lyon, Paris (CDG),<br />

Milan (MXP)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

A local taxi costs<br />

around €20.<br />

Metro trains take<br />

you to the centre.<br />

Tickets: €1.40 single.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Casa<br />

Agrícola (241–243 Rua<br />

Bom Sucesso, tel: 22<br />

605 3350) A friendly<br />

atmosphere is generated<br />

in this wonderfully<br />

restored building. Try<br />

the smoked duck breast<br />

with blackberry sauce.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Telégrapho (Rua<br />

Ferreira Borges, Palácio<br />

da Bolsa, tel: 22 332<br />

2019) Located in<br />

Palácio da Bolsa (Stock<br />

Exchange Palace), this<br />

restaurant off ers fi ne<br />

service and an excellent<br />

selection of Portuguese<br />

and international<br />

specialities, the<br />

emphasis being on<br />

succulent beef. Booking<br />

is recommended.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Café<br />

Majestic (112 Rua<br />

Santa Catarina, tel: 22<br />

200 3887) This local<br />

institution is one of<br />

Europe’s most historic<br />

coff ee houses. Enjoy<br />

indulgent chocolate<br />

cake, served by<br />

friendly staff in a<br />

pleasant atmosphere.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Pitch (34–38 Rua<br />

Passos Manuel, tel:<br />

22 201 2349) This is a<br />

relatively new late-night<br />

disco that has become<br />

very popular. Upstairs<br />

there’s soul and funk;<br />

downstairs it’s techno<br />

from international DJs.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Olá Tia!, with<br />

its friendly staff , off ers<br />

a wide selection of<br />

accessories, gifts and<br />

home-decorating items<br />

with a distinctly 21stcentury<br />

Portuguese feel<br />

(447 Rua de Gondarém).<br />

GO Porto’s riverfront<br />

(Baixa) has undergone<br />

an extensive project of<br />

renovation during the<br />

past decade. From the<br />

main train station at<br />

Sao Bento, just keep<br />

walking downhill until<br />

you get to the river.<br />

You’ll fi nd numerous<br />

restaurants, bars and<br />

shops to choose from.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

In JK Rowling’s Harry<br />

Potter books, the<br />

dark wizard Salazar<br />

Slytherin’s name is a<br />

reference to António de<br />

Oliveira Salazar, who<br />

was dictator of Portugal<br />

from 1932–68.<br />

Joseph Guerra<br />

<br />

Prague<br />

Czech Republic<br />

DIALLING CODE +420<br />

CURRENCY CZK<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Amsterdam,<br />

Belfast, Bristol, London<br />

(LGW, STN), Lyon, Milan<br />

(MXP), Paris (CDG)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

Cedaz vans cost CZK90<br />

per person.<br />

Catch bus 119 to<br />

Dejvicka then take<br />

the A metro line to the<br />

centre. Tickets: CZK26.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 U Sadlu<br />

(2 Klimentska, tel: 224<br />

813 874) If you don’t like<br />

a bit of medieval fun, rest<br />

assured your kids will. Let<br />

them share a dish called<br />

“something for two brave<br />

knights” and consider<br />

your work done.<br />

EXCLUSIVE V Zatisi<br />

(Betlemske nam, 1<br />

Liliova, tel: 222 221 155)<br />

You’re guaranteed an<br />

absolutely exquisite<br />

experience at this<br />

restaurant, well-known<br />

for its sophisticated<br />

international menu of<br />

meticulously composed<br />

fl avours. Opt for the<br />

essential wine pairing<br />

with the six-course<br />

tasting menu for the<br />

full Zatisi experience.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Cafe<br />

Meduza (17 Belgicka) It<br />

may be drawing its fi nal<br />

breath, but Prague’s<br />

winter has been known<br />

to stick around until<br />

March. Cosy Meduza’s<br />

spiced beer and cake will<br />

lift your spirits in no time.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Mecca Club (3 U<br />

Pruhonu) Don your<br />

sparkliest outfi t and grab<br />

a cab to Mecca in Prague<br />

7. This trendy club’s sleek<br />

interior and throbbing<br />

house soundtrack will<br />

turn any weekend into a<br />

glamorous adventure.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP If Prague has<br />

whet your appetite for<br />

Czech cubism, stop by<br />

Kubista. It stocks books,<br />

ceramics, furniture and<br />

jewellery, all devoted<br />

to that unique era (19<br />

Ovocny Trh, kubista.cz).<br />

SEE As one of the<br />

region’s largest fi lm<br />

festivals, Febiofest draws<br />

fi lm-makers from across<br />

the globe keen to present<br />

their work to Prague’s<br />

public. Admission: €3.<br />

From 24 March to 1 April<br />

(febiofest.cz).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Czechs take their beer<br />

seriously, and the<br />

nation’s population<br />

has been crowned<br />

the world’s top beer<br />

consumers per capita,<br />

downing a dizzying 157<br />

litres of brew per annum.<br />

Dana Dramowicz/<br />

prague-life.com<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

Pristina<br />

Kosovo<br />

DIALLING CODE +381<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

Geneva<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €25.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Liburnia<br />

(Rruga Meto Bajraktar, tel:<br />

382 2271) Here you’ll fi nd<br />

traditional Albanian food<br />

served in a wonderful<br />

Ottoman-era house with<br />

plenty of original details.<br />

Expect plenty of grilled<br />

PRIZEN<br />

FESTIVAL<br />

GO On 22 March go to<br />

Prizren for the Sulltan<br />

Nevruz festival at the<br />

Rufa’i Tekke temple.<br />

On this day dervishes<br />

of the Sufi mystic<br />

tradition, practice<br />

various rituals (Teqja<br />

e Rufaive, 3 Kaçaniku).<br />

meat, fresh salads and<br />

a pleasant garden.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Le<br />

Siam Thai (Rruga<br />

Fehmi Agani, tel: 4524<br />

3588) To the delight of<br />

the many foreigners<br />

working in Pristina, very<br />

decent Thai food can<br />

fi nally be ordered in<br />

Kosovo, albeit at higher<br />

prices than most places.<br />

Better still – it’s a nonsmoking<br />

restaurant.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Fresko<br />

(17 Rruga Fehmi Agani,<br />

tel: 455 97597) A café<br />

that cares about your<br />

health, serving fresh<br />

salads, sandwiches<br />

and fruit juices, healthy<br />

lunches and more.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Hamam Jazz Bar<br />

(Rruga Luan Haradinaj) A<br />

fabulous new addition to<br />

Pristina’s nightlife scene,<br />

Hamam (meaning<br />

“the bathhouse”) has<br />

a dazzling interior, daily<br />

jazz concerts from 10pm<br />

and very good cocktails.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP For everything a<br />

woman wants (besides<br />

diamonds), head to<br />

the Remember Me<br />

gift shop, which sells<br />

excellent quality fl owers<br />

and chocolates. Credit<br />

cards for deliveries<br />

are accepted, too (3–1<br />

Rruga Qamil Hoxha).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Traffi c at Pristina’s<br />

airport has grown<br />

from zero in 1999 to<br />

well over one million<br />

passengers in 2010.<br />

Jeroen van Marle,<br />

inyourpocket.com


Rhodes<br />

Greece<br />

DIALLING CODE +30<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Liverpool, London<br />

(LGW), Milan (MXP)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €20.<br />

Regular buses go<br />

to Rhodes, Ixia and<br />

Ialysos. Tickets: €2.20.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Aspro<br />

Piato (71G Griva Street)<br />

Greek cuisine is served<br />

in a minimalist interior<br />

at this steak house. It’s<br />

ideal for meat lovers and<br />

serves local products<br />

and a selection of wines.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Ammogyali (17 Voriou<br />

Ipirou Street) On the<br />

side of Acropolis Hill,<br />

Ammogyali is one of<br />

the most high-profi le<br />

restaurants in Rhodes.<br />

It boasts a cool, modern<br />

décor and fantastic<br />

international menu.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Koukos<br />

(20–26 Mandilara, tel:<br />

2241 073 022) It started<br />

as a small traditional<br />

Greek café, but Koukos<br />

has evolved into one of<br />

the best places to hang<br />

out on the island. With a<br />

buzzing environment, it’s<br />

a good meeting point.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Angel (Sokratous,<br />

Medieval Town) Angel is<br />

one of the most popular<br />

venues in town, playing<br />

Greek and international<br />

dance music until<br />

the break of dawn.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP The Hellenic<br />

Post Offi ce also<br />

includes a gift shop<br />

with items from Greek<br />

tradition and arts,<br />

stamp collections<br />

and more (Eleftherias<br />

Square, Mandraki).<br />

GO On 7 March there<br />

is the celebration of<br />

the annexation of the<br />

Dodecanese to Greece<br />

and on 25 March it’s the<br />

190th anniversary of<br />

the Greek Revolution.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The fi rst lines of a sonnet<br />

inside the pedestal of<br />

the Statue of Liberty in<br />

New York refer to the<br />

Colossus of Rhodes.<br />

rhodes.com.gr<br />

BEST WESTERN<br />

PLAZA<br />

★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />

A welcoming and<br />

relaxing hotel in<br />

the centre of Rhodes,<br />

and just 200m<br />

from Elli beach.<br />

Breakfast included.<br />

From €68, book at<br />

hotels.easyJet.com.<br />

Rome<br />

Italy<br />

DIALLING CODE +39<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Amsterdam,<br />

Athens, Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

Berlin, Bilbao, Bristol,<br />

Crete (Heraklion),<br />

Dubrovnik, Düsseldorf,<br />

Geneva, Ibiza, Lamezia,<br />

Lisbon, London (LGW),<br />

Lyon, Madrid, Majorca,<br />

Malta, Milan (MXP),<br />

Mykonos, Nice, Palermo,<br />

Paris (ORY), Split,<br />

Toulouse, Venice<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

CIAMPINO<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €30.<br />

SIT runs a service<br />

from the airport to<br />

the centre. Tickets: €5<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

FIUMICINO<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €40 in<br />

a City of Rome licensed<br />

cab and €60 in a<br />

Fiumicino municipality<br />

licensed cab.<br />

The Leonardo<br />

Express leaves<br />

the airport for Termini<br />

until 11.30pm. Tickets:<br />

€11. The SIT runs a<br />

service from the city<br />

centre to the airport.<br />

Tickets: €8<br />

Metropolitan FM1<br />

trains go to Roma<br />

Tiburtina until 11.27pm.<br />

Tickets: €5.50 single.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15 Pizzeria<br />

ai Marmi (53 Viale<br />

di Trastevere, tel: 06<br />

580 0919) This is a<br />

local institution, which<br />

has been deservedly<br />

popular for many<br />

years. Dubbed the<br />

obitorio, or morgue,<br />

by locals because of<br />

its long marble tables,<br />

it serves wonderful<br />

pizza plus the usual<br />

range of bruschetta<br />

for starters.<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Al Giardino del<br />

Gatto e la Volpe<br />

(14 Via Buccari, tel:<br />

06 3974 2280) “In<br />

the Cat and the Fox’s<br />

Garden” has to be one<br />

of the most original<br />

restaurant names in<br />

the world and is taken<br />

from the owners’<br />

nicknames. The two<br />

of them serve classical<br />

Roman dishes, such<br />

as caccio cheese<br />

with black pepper<br />

and tripe, in an<br />

extensive garden –<br />

as the name suggests.<br />

UP TO €50<br />

Il Sanpietrino<br />

(15 Piazza Costaguti,<br />

tel: 06 6880 6471)<br />

In a corner of the<br />

old Jewish ghetto,<br />

the Di Mauro family<br />

off ers traditional<br />

Jewish-Roman fare<br />

in an elegant but<br />

friendly environment.<br />

Start with the bean<br />

soup fl avoured with<br />

mussels, or deep-fried<br />

Judaean artichokes,<br />

AGRITURISMO IL PALOMBAIO, AN UNFORGETTABLE HOLIDAY<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

DESTINATION GUIDES | 173<br />

then move on to<br />

specialities such<br />

as pennette pasta<br />

and cow’s tail.<br />

Da Gildo (31A Via<br />

della Scala, tel: 06<br />

580 0733) A friendly<br />

and unpretentious<br />

restaurant in lively,<br />

trendy Trastevere,<br />

Da Gildo off ers superb<br />

food. The carciofi<br />

soup, bursting with<br />

artichokes, is superb,<br />

as is the egg and<br />

truffl es – two fried<br />

eggs and lots of<br />

delicious truffl es.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Mirabelle (Hotel<br />

Splendide Royal,<br />

14 Via di Porta<br />

Pinciana, tel: 06 4216<br />

8838) On the seventh<br />

fl oor of a smart hotel,<br />

the Mirabelle is<br />

a lavish, Michelinstarred<br />

restaurant<br />

with a terrace off ering<br />

incredible views over<br />

the city and the Villa<br />

Borghese park. You<br />

can’t go wrong with<br />

the oven-baked rack<br />

of lamb with rosemary,<br />

and the renowned<br />

Settimo Cielo (Seventh<br />

Heaven) dessert –<br />

which really does<br />

live up to its name.<br />

Il Convivio Troiani<br />

(31 Vicolo dei Soldati,<br />

tel: 06 686 9432)<br />

This welcoming<br />

establishment has<br />

three dining rooms,<br />

normally packed with<br />

foreign food lovers.<br />

Angelo Troiani’s<br />

cooking is creative but<br />

essentially Roman.<br />

The hot ricotta fl an<br />

with Tregignano<br />

radish, honey and<br />

parmiggiano fondue<br />

is wonderful, as is the<br />

risotto with cuttlefi sh,<br />

lemon grass and<br />

saff ron sauce.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Circus<br />

(15 Via della Vetrina)<br />

You can dine as well<br />

as drink in this modern<br />

bar and art venue,<br />

a short walk from<br />

Piazza Navona. It has<br />

a dining area at the<br />

front and sofas at<br />

the back and off ers<br />

free Wi-Fi internet<br />

access. The music<br />

is generally jazz.<br />

LIVE MUSIC Casa<br />

del Jazz (55 Viale di<br />

Porta Ardeatina, tel:<br />

06 704 731) Casa<br />

is run by Rome city<br />

council and hosts<br />

performances from<br />

local as well as<br />

internationally famous<br />

jazz artists. It also<br />

gives lots of<br />

space to up-andcoming<br />

musicians.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Alpheus (36 Viale<br />

del Commercio, tel:<br />

06 574 7826) This is<br />

a vast venue off ering<br />

a range of musical<br />

styles, with house<br />

on the big dancefl oor<br />

and techno, world<br />

music, Latin, retro,<br />

rock, hip hop and R’n’B<br />

blasting out elsewhere.<br />

Piper (9 Via<br />

Tagliamento, tel: 06<br />

855 5398) One of<br />

the city’s oldest<br />

discos, this club in<br />

the heart of the<br />

wealthy Parioli quarter<br />

now has state-ofthe-art<br />

sound and<br />

lights, and appeals<br />

to a young and


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Rome<br />

Italy<br />

rather glamorous<br />

crowd. It mainly plays<br />

house and happy<br />

house music.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Adriana is the<br />

place to go for beautiful<br />

women’s shoes. It<br />

off ers everything from<br />

classic to modern,<br />

and has a wide men’s<br />

selection, too. Perfect<br />

for if your soles wear<br />

thin from sightseeing<br />

(59 Via del Babuino, tel:<br />

06 322 7486, adriana<br />

campanile.com).<br />

SEE If you’re a highly<br />

tuned athlete wanting<br />

to burn off a bit too<br />

much pasta, you<br />

could take part in the<br />

17th Rome Marathon<br />

on 20 March,<br />

beginning and ending<br />

at the Colosseum.<br />

On the other hand,<br />

you could just watch<br />

while eating a gelato<br />

and considering pizza<br />

(maratonadiroma.it).<br />

GO Trastevere’s name<br />

translates literally<br />

as “across the Tiber”.<br />

It used to be renowned<br />

for its fi ercely<br />

independent artisans,<br />

but its alleyways<br />

and piazzas are<br />

now a major<br />

tourist destination,<br />

especially in the<br />

evenings and at<br />

weekends. But before<br />

you go for that pizza,<br />

you should really<br />

have a look at the<br />

gorgeous church<br />

of Santa Maria in<br />

Trastevere and its<br />

incredible mosaic.<br />

ESCAPE About 50km<br />

north-east of Rome is<br />

the lush and hilly<br />

olive-dotted area of<br />

Sabina, providing<br />

some of the most<br />

picturesque landscape<br />

in the country. It’s<br />

also home to the<br />

beautiful medieval<br />

Farfa abbey, which<br />

at one time rivalled<br />

the Vatican as the<br />

capital of the<br />

Christian world.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The Colosseum was<br />

the Roman Empire’s<br />

biggest amphitheatre<br />

and is the largest<br />

surviving ancient<br />

Roman structure in<br />

the world. Tickets<br />

and assigned seating<br />

were invented<br />

specifi cally for this<br />

great structure,<br />

so 50,000 people<br />

could make their<br />

way through the 79<br />

entrances and take<br />

their places within<br />

a quarter of an hour.<br />

Alan Goldwater<br />

LONDRA &<br />

CARGILL<br />

★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />

Just a few steps<br />

from Rome’s famous<br />

Via Veneto, this<br />

traditionally styled<br />

hotel is perfect.<br />

Breakfast included.<br />

From €110, book at<br />

hotels.easyJet.com.<br />

Salzburg<br />

Austria<br />

DIALLING CODE +43<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Bristol, Grenoble,<br />

London (LGW)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €15.<br />

Trains run to the<br />

Hauptbahnhof<br />

station. Tickets: €9.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Indigo<br />

(48 Alpenstrasse,<br />

tel: 0662 627 194)<br />

Healthy food is the<br />

key word here:<br />

vegetarian, chicken<br />

or veal curries, sushi,<br />

noodles and salads<br />

are part of the<br />

versatile menu at<br />

this eatery.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Genussprojekt<br />

(3 Forellenweg, tel:<br />

0664 543 9534)<br />

Here’s you’ll fi nd<br />

regional ingredients,<br />

a friendly atmosphere<br />

and a chef who is<br />

happy to spoil you.<br />

Go for the delicious<br />

bull steak or the daily<br />

changing fresh fi sh<br />

specialities – which<br />

are sure to delight.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Flavour<br />

(21 Imbergstrasse,<br />

tel: 0662 872 176) The<br />

fi ne wine card and<br />

refi ned interior give<br />

this bar an aesthetic<br />

air. If you should get<br />

hungry, check out<br />

the delicious pasta<br />

dishes on the menu.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Chez Roland (15<br />

Giselakai, tel: 0662<br />

874 335) The bar is<br />

one of the hot spots<br />

where locals meet on<br />

the weekend to relax<br />

over a cocktail or<br />

a glass of fresh<br />

Styrian Chardonnay.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Founded<br />

in 1850, Schatz<br />

patisserie still off ers<br />

some of the best<br />

tidbits in town. Get<br />

your raspberry<br />

souffl é or chocolate<br />

and poppy seedcake<br />

packed to take away<br />

(3 Getreidegasse,<br />

tel: 0662 842 792).<br />

GO The one street<br />

you must not miss<br />

in Salzburg is the<br />

Getreidegasse.<br />

Narrow, with its<br />

beautiful façades and<br />

many small shops<br />

and cafés, it’s a<br />

picturesque sight, and<br />

worth spending a day<br />

strolling around.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

While walking down<br />

Salzburg’s most<br />

beautiful street,<br />

Getreidegasse, stop<br />

at number 9 and you’ll<br />

fi nd the house where<br />

Mozart was born.<br />

Uros Urosevic<br />

DESTINATION GUIDES | 175<br />

Sharm El<br />

Sheikh Egypt<br />

DIALLING CODE +20<br />

CURRENCY EGP<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Geneva, London<br />

(LGW, LTN), Manchester<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com. A<br />

local taxi costs EGP120.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Pomodoro (Na’ama<br />

Bay, tel: 069 360<br />

0700) Located in a<br />

prime position, this<br />

trendy bistro off ers an<br />

Italian-infl uenced menu<br />

to suit all tastes. Make<br />

the most of the view<br />

from the terrace while<br />

enjoying homemade<br />

pizza or pasta.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Siam<br />

(Maritim Jolie Ville<br />

Royal Peninsula Hotel<br />

& Resort, tel: 069 360<br />

4200) The delicious<br />

food prepared by the<br />

award-winning head<br />

chef ensures a visit to<br />

this restaurant is well<br />

worth the taxi ride. The<br />

dishes refl ect the best<br />

of Thai royal cuisine,<br />

featuring the sharply<br />

contrasting fl avours<br />

associated with<br />

Far Eastern cooking.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Stella Bar<br />

(Il Mercato, Hadaba)<br />

The décor inspired by<br />

a local beer is a quirky<br />

feature of this bar in the<br />

heart of the Il Mercato<br />

shopping mall. Stop<br />

for an ice-cold one<br />

before hitting the shops.<br />

LATE & LIVELY Little<br />

Buddha (Na’ama Bay<br />

Hotel, tel: 069 360 1030)<br />

The Sharm outfi t of<br />

this world-famous bar<br />

provides a hip venue for<br />

late-night partying. The<br />

candlelit lounge has a<br />

large cocktail bar, and<br />

its funky, elegant décor<br />

provides the perfect<br />

backdrop for a superstylish<br />

night out.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP With branches<br />

in Na’ama Bay and Il<br />

Mercato, Radio Shack<br />

stocks a wide range<br />

of electronic products<br />

including mobile phone<br />

chargers, batteries,<br />

iPods and other gadgets.<br />

Fixed prices and product<br />

warranties are available.<br />

GO Pamper yourself<br />

at the Sheraton Sharm<br />

Thalasso Center, which<br />

specialises in waterinspired<br />

treatments<br />

using purifi ed mineral<br />

salts from the Red Sea.<br />

Choose from a long list<br />

of treatments, including<br />

hydro massage,<br />

hammam therapies<br />

and body wraps<br />

(tel: 069 360 2070).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Sharm El Sheikh<br />

International Airport<br />

serves nearly eight<br />

million people a year.<br />

Penny Orford<br />

PLANNING TO DIVE IN THE RED SEA?<br />

Avoid Rogue Operators


176 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />

Sofia<br />

Bulgaria<br />

DIALLING CODE +359<br />

CURRENCY Leu (BGN)<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London (LGW),<br />

Madrid, Manchester<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs BGN14.<br />

Catch bus 84 or<br />

bus 284. Tickets:<br />

BGN1. The white<br />

marshrutkas van number<br />

30 goes to the centre.<br />

Tickets: BGN1.50.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Gara<br />

za Dvama (18 Georgi<br />

Benkovski Ulitza, tel:<br />

989 7675) Based on<br />

the 1982 Soviet fi lm<br />

of the same name,<br />

Gara za Dvama<br />

(“Station for Two”)<br />

was designed to be like<br />

a small train carriage<br />

and off ers Russian<br />

meals and good vodka.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Clock<br />

House (15 Moskovska<br />

Ulitsa, tel: 932 7595)<br />

In a beautifully<br />

restored house<br />

dating back to the<br />

19th century, enjoy<br />

fi ne European and<br />

Bulgarian cuisine in<br />

the enchanting dining<br />

room looking out over<br />

the lush gardens.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Bash<br />

Bar (31 Ivan Asen<br />

II Ulitsa) This small,<br />

deep-red bar is the<br />

new place for trendy<br />

youngsters who<br />

are looking for<br />

the next big thing.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

My Mojito (12 Ivan<br />

Vazov Ulitza) The<br />

ruby-red lights here<br />

hover around the<br />

heads of people of all<br />

ages and attitudes.<br />

There’s a chill-out<br />

room for the laidback<br />

and another for Red<br />

Bull-mixing rockers.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Dar za Gorene<br />

is a little candle shop<br />

where you can fi nd<br />

100% handmade<br />

candles, decorated with<br />

symbols inspired by<br />

Bulgarian folklore and<br />

nature (19 Bulevard<br />

Fridtyof Nansen,<br />

tel: 0888 647 516).<br />

SEE The National<br />

Ballet of Georgia<br />

and the folk ensemble<br />

Suhishvili will be in<br />

Bulgaria for the fi rst<br />

time on 18 March<br />

for a spectacular<br />

performance (National<br />

Palace of Culture, tel:<br />

916 6300).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The inventor of the<br />

air bag and the<br />

answering machine<br />

is the Bulgarian-<br />

American Assen<br />

Jordanoff , who was<br />

born in Sofi a in 1896.<br />

Maya Kozareva<br />

Stockholm<br />

Sweden<br />

DIALLING CODE +46<br />

CURRENCY Krona (SEK)<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Geneva,<br />

Milan (MXP)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com. A<br />

local taxi costs SEK450.<br />

The Arlanda goes<br />

to the city centre.<br />

Tickets: SEK240 single.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Indian Garden (15<br />

Heleneborgsgatan, tel:<br />

08 849 498) This tiny<br />

Indian spot has won<br />

countless prizes and<br />

awards, and it even has<br />

regulars in London who<br />

get their takeaways<br />

delivered by plane.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Museet<br />

(41 Birger Jarlsgatan, tel:<br />

08 201 008) A real tiger<br />

skeleton is part of the<br />

décor but, despite that<br />

and the name, this isn’t a<br />

museum but an upscale<br />

bistro where guests can<br />

enjoy generous portions<br />

of classic Swedish and<br />

French fare, served by<br />

an accommodating<br />

staff . The breast of duck<br />

with coff ee gravy is well<br />

worth the asking price.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Rival<br />

(3 Mariatorget) One<br />

fl ight up inside the Rival<br />

Hotel (owned by Benny<br />

from Abba), you’ll fi nd<br />

this spacious cocktail<br />

bar, draped in plush<br />

red velvet.<br />

LATE & LIVELY Hell’s<br />

Kitchen (4 Sturegatan,<br />

tel: 08 5450 7675) At this<br />

ritzy hedonist paradise,<br />

the cool minimalism<br />

has been abandoned in<br />

favour of an interior that<br />

can only be described as<br />

rampant maximalism.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Brunogallerian<br />

is a stylish mini-mall,<br />

which further cements<br />

Götgatsbacken as one<br />

of Stockholm’s trendiest<br />

strips. Shop for Swedish<br />

labels such as Filippa<br />

K and Whyred, and<br />

brands including Adidas,<br />

American Apparel and<br />

Miss Sixty (36 Götgatan).<br />

SEE The exhibition<br />

Män i baddräkt at<br />

Nordiska Museet – the<br />

title translates as “men<br />

in bathing suits” – is<br />

an interesting (and<br />

hilarious) meditation<br />

on fashion choices<br />

and body ideals<br />

through the times<br />

(6–16 Djurgårdsvägen).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Stockholm syndrome<br />

refers to a psychological<br />

phenomenon in which<br />

hostages feel sympathy<br />

for their captors. The<br />

name refers to a bank<br />

robbery in Stockholm in<br />

1973, during which bank<br />

employees were held<br />

hostage for fi ve days.<br />

Victoria Larsson<br />

Tallinn<br />

Estonia<br />

DIALLING CODE +372<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Liverpool,<br />

London (STN)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com. A<br />

local taxi costs €10.<br />

Route 2 goes<br />

to the centre.<br />

Tickets: €1.60.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Neh<br />

(4 Lootsi, tel: 602 2222)<br />

Palatable Baltic Sea<br />

islands fare – that’s<br />

the cuisine off ered by<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

RESTAURANT<br />

Chedi (1 Sulevimägi,<br />

tel: 646 1676) Asian<br />

gourmet cuisine is<br />

created under the<br />

observant eye of<br />

award-winning British<br />

restaurateur Alan Yau.<br />

All spices are imported<br />

to create great dishes.<br />

the Pädaste Manor<br />

seasonal kitchen in the<br />

heart of Tallinn city. It<br />

comes from afar, but<br />

none of the food loses its<br />

fresher-than-fresh taste.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Café<br />

Josephine (16 Vene,<br />

tel: 641 8291) This<br />

hideaway is the perfect<br />

place for candlelight,<br />

wine and nibbles. Expect<br />

relaxed elegance and<br />

indulgent handmade<br />

chocolates served<br />

alongside gourmet teas.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Cathouse (4–6 Viru)<br />

One of the newest<br />

and sexiest clubs in<br />

town feels like a cross<br />

between a lingerie<br />

catwalk and Studio 54.<br />

Two fl oors with diff erent<br />

dancefl oors and four<br />

bars are sure to appeal.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Estonian<br />

Craftsmen Shop<br />

has a large variety of<br />

authentic Estonian<br />

handicrafts sold by the<br />

craftsmen themselves,<br />

so you can support the<br />

local traders (23 Viru).<br />

SEE Tallinn Music Week<br />

features concerts by<br />

dozens of established<br />

and up-and-coming<br />

bands showcasing their<br />

talent in this music<br />

networking event.<br />

From 24–26 March<br />

(tallinnmusicweek.ee).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

There’s no excuse for<br />

not keeping in touch<br />

with family back home<br />

– there are 352 wireless<br />

internet areas in Tallinn.<br />

Ain Hinsberg


Tangier<br />

Morocco<br />

DIALLING CODE +212<br />

CURRENCY MAD<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Madrid, Paris (CDG)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com. A<br />

local taxi costs MAD100.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 La<br />

Fuga Pizzeria (7 Rue<br />

Casablanca Resid.<br />

Assourour II, tel: 0539<br />

331 066) This Italian<br />

restaurant is good for<br />

family dining and safe<br />

for sensitive stomachs,<br />

or those tired of tagine.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Les<br />

Passagers de Tanger<br />

(Grand Socco) On<br />

this rooftop terrace<br />

overlooking the centre<br />

of the Old Town, you<br />

can choose from a<br />

constantly changing<br />

menu that off ers a wide<br />

selection of fi sh or meat<br />

carpaccio and foreign<br />

and local wines.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY<br />

Cinémathèque de<br />

Tanger (Place du 9 Avril,<br />

Grand Socco, tel: 0539<br />

934 683) A popular<br />

hangout for artists and<br />

students. Head inside to<br />

mingle over a strawberry<br />

juice or take in a fi lm, or<br />

sit outside and watch life<br />

on the Grand Socco.<br />

LATE & LIVELY Snob<br />

(Boulevard Mohammed<br />

VI) Recently refurbished,<br />

Snob reclaims its<br />

position as one of the<br />

best house music clubs<br />

on the beachfront. The<br />

action starts at 1am.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP La Maison Eric<br />

Kayser is without doubt<br />

the best bakery in town.<br />

This artisan bakery is<br />

a must if you’re after<br />

genuine French pastries<br />

or local specialities<br />

(Rue les Amoureux,<br />

tel: 0539 331 683).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

French geologist<br />

Jacques Collina-Girard<br />

has suggested that<br />

the legendary lost city<br />

of Atlantis lies midchannel<br />

in the Straits of<br />

Gibraltar, about 19km<br />

north of Tangier.<br />

Aman te Water<br />

ANCIENT<br />

LIXUS<br />

GO Visit the Roman<br />

town of Lixus and<br />

enjoy a drive through<br />

the countryside.<br />

Situated overlooking<br />

the mouth of the<br />

Loukos River, near the<br />

Larache port, it’s a<br />

perfect family day out.<br />

Tel Aviv<br />

Israel<br />

DIALLING CODE +972<br />

CURRENCY ILS<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

Geneva, London (LTN)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

A local taxi costs<br />

around ILS120.<br />

Trains go to the<br />

Central and<br />

HaShalom stations.<br />

Tickets: ILS13.50.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Buddha<br />

Burgers (21 Yehuda<br />

HaLevy, tel: 03 510<br />

1333) Munch away on<br />

some inexpensive vegan<br />

cuisine, such as a lentil<br />

patty or hummus with<br />

Indian-style tomato<br />

sauce at this superhealthy<br />

eatery.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Catit<br />

(4 Heichal Hatalmud,<br />

tel: 03 510 7001)<br />

Try some incredibly<br />

inventive and artistically<br />

presented dishes at<br />

this restaurant, such<br />

as warm foie gras with<br />

caramelised apples<br />

or lamb brain with<br />

parmesan and grilled<br />

fennel. Expect a mix of<br />

French, Mediterranean<br />

and North Africaninspired<br />

cuisine.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Satchmo<br />

(6 Vital Street, tel: 05<br />

2328 4800) Listen to<br />

a selection of diff erent<br />

styles of music, from<br />

rock to jazz, as you drink<br />

your glass of whisky.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Dome (3 Hazfi ra Street)<br />

Have a wild time on the<br />

city’s largest dancefl oor.<br />

Students can let their<br />

hair down at special<br />

parties on Friday nights.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP At Olia boutique<br />

you can sample the<br />

various types of<br />

fruity and bitter olive<br />

products from Israel<br />

and diff erent parts of<br />

the Mediterranean. The<br />

organic home blend of<br />

extra virgin olive oil is<br />

wonderful accompanied<br />

with some goat’s cheese<br />

or a simple salad<br />

(73 Frishman Street,<br />

tel: 03 522 3235).<br />

SEE Feast your eyes<br />

on glistening gems at<br />

the Harry Oppenheimer<br />

Diamond Museum<br />

as it celebrates its<br />

70th anniversary. You’ll<br />

be able to discover<br />

how diamonds<br />

are found, cut and<br />

polished at the recently<br />

renovated institution<br />

(1 Jabotinsky Street,<br />

tel: 03 576 0219).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The Israeli architect<br />

Ron Arad is currently<br />

working on developing<br />

a new luxury apartment<br />

building on Ha-Yarkon<br />

Street in Tel Aviv. He<br />

also designed the Tel<br />

Aviv Opera House.<br />

Kimberley Chen<br />

DESTINATION GUIDES | 177<br />

Tenerife<br />

South Spain<br />

DIALLING CODE +34<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Bristol, London<br />

(LGW), Manchester<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

A local taxi costs<br />

around €25.<br />

Route 111 stops at<br />

Las Americas and<br />

Santa Cruz. Tickets: €3.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Oasis<br />

(5 Calle Grande, tel:<br />

922 780 827) Garlic<br />

lovers will adore this<br />

aff ectionately named<br />

chicken shack,<br />

which serves garlic<br />

chicken and Canarian<br />

potatoes all year round.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

La Estancia (Calle<br />

Armiche, Urbanización<br />

Las Aguilas del Teide,<br />

Chayofa, tel: 922 729<br />

359) Infl uenced by<br />

French-Mediterranean<br />

cuisine, this elegant<br />

establishment serves<br />

exotic meats and<br />

fi sh from wood-fi red<br />

barbecues. Golfers<br />

with a green fee card<br />

receive a 10% discount,<br />

giving you more<br />

incentive than ever to<br />

stop at this top joint.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Bar<br />

Nuestro (12 Calle San<br />

Roque) For a taste of<br />

Canarian culture, this<br />

authentic bar with its<br />

farm-style interior off ers<br />

a perfect way to mix with<br />

the locals while trying<br />

some local snacks such<br />

as grilled sardines.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Bobby’s (4 Veronicas,<br />

Playa de Las Americas)<br />

Made famous by the<br />

reality TV show Tenerife<br />

Uncovered, clubbers<br />

come to Bobby’s to<br />

enjoy dance music<br />

into the early hours<br />

in the heart of the<br />

island’s clubland.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP The Gran<br />

Sur shopping centre<br />

near Torviscas is a<br />

one-stop shop for<br />

all your retail needs,<br />

selling everything from<br />

clothing to food. It also<br />

houses a seven-screen<br />

cinema, which shows<br />

blockbuster fi lms.<br />

GO Take a trip to the<br />

historic and beautiful<br />

town of Candelaría<br />

to view fi rst-hand the<br />

famous basilica and the<br />

Black Madonna – one<br />

of Tenerife’s biggest<br />

tourist attractions.<br />

By bus, the journey<br />

via Santa Cruz takes<br />

around an hour.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

It may not be a large<br />

island, but Tenerife is<br />

home to an impressive<br />

141 nature reserves,<br />

the largest being<br />

the spectacular<br />

Cañadas del Teide.<br />

Natasha Laming


178 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />

Thessaloniki<br />

Greece<br />

DIALLING CODE +30<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

Berlin, Dortmund, London<br />

(LGW), Milan (MXP)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €20.<br />

Route 78 goes to<br />

the city centre.<br />

Tickets: €0.50.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Apo Dyo<br />

Horia (7 Vyronos, tel:<br />

2310 269 204) Come<br />

here for authentic<br />

recipes from Crete<br />

and the Black Sea<br />

region, refl ecting the<br />

restaurant’s name,<br />

which means “from<br />

two villages”. The lamb<br />

kleftiko is a guranteed<br />

winner. Wash it down<br />

with excellent Cretan<br />

raki or organic wine.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

I Kanoula (8 Raktivan,<br />

tel: 2310 222 185) If<br />

you’re a fan of organic<br />

food, friendly I Kanoula<br />

has a wide range of<br />

healthy dishes on the<br />

menu, many of them<br />

meat-free such as the<br />

delicious yigantes (giant<br />

beans) in tomato sauce,<br />

as well as excellent<br />

homemade wine.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Spirto (33<br />

Pavlou Mela, tel: 2310<br />

222 207) Meaning<br />

“match”, the smoking<br />

ban has not deterred<br />

the youngsters from<br />

crowding into this<br />

intimate café, which<br />

projects animations<br />

on a large screen.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Partizan (29 Valioritou,<br />

tel: 2310 543 461)<br />

Now established as a<br />

fi rm favourite with the<br />

hip crowd, with sleek<br />

modern furnishings and<br />

state-of-the-art lighting,<br />

this bar hosts cuttingedge<br />

trance, acid house,<br />

dance bands and DJs.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Arktos Art in<br />

the shopping district<br />

of Kalamaria is a fi ne<br />

place. It has a range<br />

of Greek handicrafts,<br />

from traditional<br />

shadow puppets to<br />

glass ornaments and<br />

ceramics (98 Pasalidi).<br />

SEE Greece’s largest<br />

celebration of factual<br />

fi lm-making, the<br />

annual Thessaloniki<br />

Documentary Film<br />

Festival, takes place<br />

this year in the<br />

Olympion Cinema<br />

from 11–20 March.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Platia Dimokratias,<br />

known to locals as Platia<br />

Vardari, was christened<br />

Piccadilly Circus by<br />

British soldiers stationed<br />

here during World War I.<br />

Nick Edwards<br />

Toulouse<br />

France<br />

DIALLING CODE +33<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Bristol, Geneva,<br />

London (LGW), Lisbon,<br />

Lyon, Madrid, Milan<br />

(MXP), Nantes, Paris<br />

(CDG, ORY), Rome (FCO)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €30.<br />

The Toulouse-<br />

Blagnac Navette<br />

goes to the city centre.<br />

Tickets: €6 return.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Le Pere<br />

Leon (2 Place Esquirol,<br />

tel: 05 6123 9095)<br />

This well-loved bustling<br />

brasserie serves<br />

wonderful cassoulet at<br />

lunchtime. There are also<br />

lots of dishes featuring<br />

duck and potatoes, as<br />

well as the usual salads,<br />

steaks and pizzas.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Le<br />

Palladia (241 Avenue<br />

de Grande-Bretagne, tel:<br />

05 6212 0130) Elegant<br />

and refi ned, this modern<br />

restaurant serves a<br />

menu to match the<br />

décor – fresh, modern,<br />

fashionable and with<br />

a slightly quirky twist.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Le Divino<br />

(11 Rue des Briquetiers,<br />

Blagnac, tel: 05 3439<br />

9016) Monochrome<br />

and very trendy, this<br />

lounge bar does a bit<br />

of everything. A great<br />

place for a drink after<br />

work, and the ocassional<br />

themed evenings<br />

(Oriental or jazz nights)<br />

are worth staying on for.<br />

LATE & LIVELY Los<br />

Piquillos (90 Route de<br />

Blagnac, tel: 05 6157<br />

0057) A great place for<br />

a celebration. Indoors<br />

it’s warm and noisy<br />

with laughter, while the<br />

stunning terrace is<br />

a great place to taste<br />

the fi rst warm spring<br />

air. Tapas, sangria,<br />

Latino music and<br />

fi esta ambience.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Habiague sells<br />

all the top brands in<br />

kitchen accessories<br />

and utensils, as well as<br />

a range of gadgets you<br />

won’t fi nd elsewhere...<br />

including a wolf’s teeth<br />

jelly mould (44 Rue<br />

d’Alsace-Lorraine,<br />

tel: 05 6121 5661).<br />

SEE The Festival du<br />

Printemps du Rire runs<br />

from 14–26 March<br />

and there are comedy<br />

events of all types in<br />

venues across town<br />

(printempsdurire.com).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Local tradition<br />

maintains that Queen<br />

Brunehaut, the sixthcentury<br />

ruler of the<br />

Visigoths, founded<br />

the nearby 12th-century<br />

village of Bruniquel.<br />

Samantha David<br />

Valencia<br />

Spain<br />

DIALLING CODE +34<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London (LGW)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €16.<br />

Metro lines run<br />

to the city centre.<br />

Tickets: €1.90<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 La<br />

Galeria (38 Calle<br />

Baja, tel: 963 154 494)<br />

With live fl amenco<br />

on Wednesdays and<br />

beer with tapas for an<br />

LAS FALLAS<br />

FIESTA<br />

SEE A unique threeweek<br />

fi esta of earblowing<br />

fi recrackers<br />

and huge satirical<br />

statues takes place<br />

from 16–19 March.<br />

More than 700 fallas<br />

are created, which are<br />

then ritually burned.<br />

> E-Mobility Management<br />

> Corporate Responsibility & Business Ethics<br />

> General Management - Danube MBA<br />

Information: Danube Business School, Dr. in Andrea Höltl<br />

E-Mail: andrea.hoeltl@donau-uni.ac.at, Phone: +43 (0)2732 893-2123<br />

astonishing €1.50, this<br />

bar in the El Carmen area<br />

is popular with everyone.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Seu Xera<br />

(4 Conde de Almodovar,<br />

tel: 963 924 000) This<br />

fabulous restaurant<br />

off ers something for all<br />

tastes. It cleverly mixes<br />

superb set menus with<br />

an à la carte menu<br />

off ering delicacies<br />

such as octopus with<br />

purple potatoes or<br />

Burmese-style pig.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY After Work<br />

Pulpo Bar (9 Calle<br />

Murillo) Here you’ll fi nd<br />

menus del día, tapas and<br />

drinks. A small restaurant<br />

area in the front and<br />

low-seated chairs and<br />

cushions through the<br />

back complement great<br />

1960s–1990s sounds.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

La 3 (2 Calle del Padre<br />

Porta) The dancefl oor<br />

here moves every time<br />

the doors open and the<br />

music starts. It’s open<br />

Fridays and Saturdays<br />

until very late.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Mercado Ruzafa<br />

isn’t as famous as the<br />

bigger Mercado Central<br />

in the city centre, but<br />

it’s still well worth a visit.<br />

Cheese, hams and fresh<br />

local specialities are ideal<br />

for picnics and for gifts to<br />

take home (Carrera de la<br />

Fuente San Luis).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Spain is famous for its<br />

paella, but few people<br />

know that Valencia is<br />

the culinary cradle of<br />

the ricey creation.<br />

Andy McNicoll<br />

D<br />

N<br />

O<br />

K R E<br />

A<br />

U<br />

M S<br />

www.mba.krems.at<br />

UNIVERSITAT


Venice<br />

Italy<br />

DIALLING CODE +39<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Basel-Mulhouse,<br />

Berlin, Ibiza, London<br />

(LGW), Lyon, Madrid,<br />

Naples, Paris (CDG, ORY),<br />

Rome (FCO)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €30.<br />

The ACTV yellow<br />

bus 5 runs to<br />

Piazzale Roma. Tickets:<br />

€2.50 single.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €15<br />

Ristorante Diana<br />

(2519 Fondamenta<br />

Misericordia,<br />

Cannaregio, tel: 041<br />

715 977) A good choice<br />

for a decent, traditional<br />

meal that doesn’t cost<br />

the earth, in a pleasant<br />

canal-side location.<br />

The menu features<br />

a wide range of fi sh and<br />

meat specialities.<br />

UP TO €30 Al<br />

Mascaron (5225 Calle<br />

Longa Santa Maria<br />

Formosa, Castello, tel:<br />

041 522 5995) There’s a<br />

great atmosphere in this<br />

historic hostelry, which is<br />

much frequented by the<br />

locals. Beamed ceilings<br />

and chunky wooden<br />

tables characterise the<br />

décor, while the menu<br />

is a roll-call of classic<br />

Venetian recipes.<br />

UP TO €50 Osteria<br />

La Zucca (1762 Calle<br />

del Tentor, Santa<br />

Croce, tel: 041 524<br />

1570) This charming<br />

Mediterranean-style<br />

place serves some<br />

inspired vegetarian<br />

dishes, but there’s plenty<br />

for hardened carnivores<br />

too. Herbs and spices<br />

abound, including the<br />

homemade desserts<br />

– try the spicy red wine<br />

and raspberry tart.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Al Gatto<br />

Nero (88 Via Giudecca,<br />

Burano, tel: 041 730<br />

120) Excellent Venetian<br />

specialities and a good<br />

wine list – plus a lovely,<br />

peaceful position on<br />

Burano – make a meal<br />

here one to be savoured.<br />

Start with fresh fi sh and<br />

round off your meal with<br />

some of the island’s<br />

buranelli biscuits.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Caff è<br />

Florian (56–59 Piazza<br />

San Marco, San Marco,<br />

tel: 041 520 5641) Be<br />

transported back in time<br />

at this famous – and<br />

costly – café, which has<br />

welcomed numerous<br />

illustrious clients since<br />

it opened in 1720. The<br />

classic piano and string<br />

ensembles add to the<br />

unique atmosphere.<br />

LIVE MUSIC Caff è<br />

Rosso (2963 Campo<br />

Santa Margherita,<br />

Dorsoduro, tel: 041 528<br />

7998) A great place for<br />

watching the comings<br />

and goings of Campo<br />

Santa Margherita, this<br />

lively bar holds frequent<br />

concerts. Come back<br />

in the morning for a<br />

frothy cappuccino and a<br />

glimpse of the square’s<br />

daytime persona.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Taverna l’Olandese<br />

Volante (5658 Campo<br />

San Lio, Castello, tel: 041<br />

528 9349) The “Flying<br />

Dutchman” may not be<br />

a traditional Venetian<br />

tavern, but the largely<br />

international clientèle<br />

appreciates the beer<br />

and snacks served in<br />

a fun, contemporary<br />

environment.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Highly skilled<br />

glass engraver Luigi<br />

Camozzo doesn’t limit<br />

himself to standard<br />

methods and designs<br />

– he’s forever trying<br />

new techniques. Pop in<br />

to watch him work and<br />

treat yourself to one of<br />

his beautiful creations<br />

(3 Fondamenta Venier,<br />

tel: 041 736 875).<br />

ROYAL SAN<br />

MARCO<br />

★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />

The grand hotel lies<br />

off St Mark’s Square.<br />

Such a superb location<br />

combined with the<br />

Venetian interiors<br />

make a magical stay.<br />

From €95, book at<br />

hotels.easyJet.com.<br />

SEE Catch the small<br />

exhibition dedicated to<br />

Dutch artist Hieronymus<br />

Bosch (1450–1516).<br />

Thanks to his surrealist,<br />

fantasy themes, he’s<br />

sometimes considered<br />

a forerunner of Salvador<br />

Dalì. Until 20 March<br />

(Palazzo Grimani, 4858<br />

Ramo Grimani, Castello,<br />

tel: 041 241 1507).<br />

GO Night and day,<br />

the area around the<br />

historic Rialto fi sh and<br />

produce market is<br />

one of Venice’s most<br />

animated. Come in the<br />

morning to see stalls<br />

selling the day’s catch<br />

and plenty of juicy local<br />

fruit and veg, and stay<br />

late to relax at some of<br />

the city’s best bars.<br />

ESCAPE Take the train<br />

to Vicenza (45 minutes)<br />

and be inspired by<br />

the Renaissance<br />

architecture, mostly<br />

designed by Andrea<br />

Palladio. Feast your eyes<br />

on the elegant columns<br />

and sweeping lines of<br />

the centre’s palazzi,<br />

and don’t miss the<br />

landmark dome of<br />

the hilltop La Rotonda.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

In the days of the<br />

Venetian Republic,<br />

strong links with the<br />

Middle East brought<br />

much to Venice,<br />

including silk and spices<br />

– fundamental to many<br />

gastronomic specialities.<br />

Even the globally famous<br />

tradition of glass-making<br />

was learnt from Arab<br />

countries. To return the<br />

favour, in 1537 Venice<br />

produced the world’s<br />

fi rst printed Koran.<br />

Sarah Lane<br />

DESTINATION GUIDES | 179<br />

Vienna<br />

Austria<br />

DIALLING CODE +43<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London (LGW)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €30.<br />

The CAT train<br />

goes to the centre.<br />

Tickets: €9 single.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Zum<br />

Schwarzen Kameel (5<br />

Bognergasse, tel: 01 533<br />

8125) Eat cheaply but in<br />

aristocratic style at this<br />

longstanding haunt. Tuck<br />

into daintily prepared<br />

sandwiches. Beethoven<br />

is said to have been a<br />

former customer.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Vestibül<br />

(2 Dr Karl Lueger-<br />

Ring, tel: 01 532<br />

4999) If Midge Ure<br />

wanted to reshoot his<br />

video for Vienna, this<br />

opulent venue would<br />

fi t the bill. Housed<br />

in the sumptuous<br />

Burgtheater, this swish<br />

restaurant is a favourite<br />

with opera-goers.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY MAK-Café<br />

(5 Stubenring, tel: 01<br />

714 0121) A super-suave<br />

bar housed in the slick<br />

Museum of Applied<br />

Arts. The waiters can<br />

advise on the best local<br />

Sekt (sparkling wine),<br />

while there’s food on<br />

hand for the famished.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Passage (Corner<br />

of Burgring &<br />

Babenbergasse, tel: 01<br />

961 8800) The Inner<br />

City is notably short on<br />

beatboxes, but Passage,<br />

which occupies a former<br />

pedestrian pass on<br />

the western fringe,<br />

ticks all the boxes for<br />

those in search of<br />

late-night revelry.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP A charming<br />

chocolate shop with<br />

a contemporary slant,<br />

Schokov is the perfect<br />

place to pick up some<br />

souvenirs of the edible<br />

variety. Find it in the<br />

hip Spittelberg district<br />

(20 Siebensterngasse).<br />

SEE Head over to the<br />

Albertina to savour<br />

Roy Lichtenstein’s<br />

drawings from the<br />

1960s. You can check<br />

out the works of the<br />

pop art star throughout<br />

March (1 Albertinaplatz,<br />

albertina.at).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

In 1948, director Carol<br />

Reed discovered zither<br />

player Anton Karas in<br />

a Viennese wine<br />

tavern. Having been<br />

hired to create the<br />

soundtrack for<br />

classic movie The Third<br />

Man, Karas became<br />

a global sensation.<br />

Nick Hodge/<br />

vienna-life.com


180 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />

Zagreb<br />

Croatia<br />

DIALLING CODE +385<br />

CURRENCY Kuna (HRK)<br />

FLY FROM<br />

Dortmund, London<br />

(LGW), Paris (CDG)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com. A<br />

local taxi costs HRK200.<br />

The airport bus<br />

runs to the city<br />

centre. Tickets: HRK30<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30<br />

Gostionica Purger<br />

(23 Petrinjska, tel: 01<br />

481 0713) If you want to<br />

experience old-school<br />

Zagreb dining, this is the<br />

place. Fill up on meat<br />

or fi sh dishes without<br />

breaking the bank.<br />

EXCLUSIVE<br />

Zinfandel’s Restaurant<br />

(1 Mihanoviceva, tel: 01<br />

456 6644) As smooth as<br />

they come, Zinfandel’s is<br />

at the very top of Zagreb<br />

dining. Recline in the<br />

palatial surrounds of the<br />

city’s most luxurious<br />

hotel, the Esplanade,<br />

and enjoy seriously<br />

good cooking and<br />

some great wines, too.<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Kota<br />

(20 Meduliceva) Come<br />

over all cultural at this<br />

wine bar-bookstore and<br />

start to appreciate<br />

what amazing wines<br />

Croatia produces.<br />

With production so<br />

small and domestic<br />

consumption so high,<br />

few make it abroad.<br />

LATE & LIVELY KSET<br />

(3 Unska, tel: 01 612<br />

9758) This quite brilliant<br />

club and live music<br />

venue boasts everything<br />

from international DJs,<br />

through to low-fi electro<br />

stars and indie hopefuls<br />

playing live. King<br />

of the underground.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP Hip talent Ana<br />

Marija Krkic Visnjic has<br />

for years been conjuring<br />

up fashion that has<br />

gone down a storm<br />

on catwalks abroad<br />

(19 Gunduliceva,<br />

amarie-fashion.com).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The Daily Telegraph has<br />

trumpeted the Croatian<br />

capital as one of the<br />

world’s coolest “new”<br />

destinations in <strong>2011</strong>.<br />

robinmckelvie.com<br />

FERNKORN<br />

FOUNTAIN<br />

GO Kaptol is home<br />

to the city’s landmark<br />

cathedral and<br />

Fernkorn’s gleaming<br />

gold fountain outside.<br />

There are some<br />

good cafés, bars<br />

and restaurants<br />

to relax in, too.<br />

Zante<br />

Greece<br />

DIALLING CODE +30<br />

CURRENCY €<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London (LGW)<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com.<br />

A local taxi costs €20.<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 To<br />

Agnandi (Lithakia,<br />

tel: 26950 45712)<br />

The name means<br />

“high place” and this<br />

pleasant mountainside<br />

taverna off ers superb<br />

views across Laganas<br />

Bay, as well as hearty<br />

traditional meals,<br />

from succulent<br />

grills to fresh salads.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Komis<br />

(Bastouni tou Agiou,<br />

Zante Town, tel: 26950<br />

26915) If you can<br />

splash the cash while<br />

you’re away, this is the<br />

place to come. Located<br />

near the main dock<br />

and decorated with<br />

marine paraphenalia,<br />

here you can order<br />

superb fresh fi sh and<br />

seafood – a good<br />

choice is the mydia<br />

saganaki (mussels<br />

fried with tomato<br />

and cheese).<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY Paseo<br />

Cafe (28 Laskareos,<br />

Zante Town, tel: 26950<br />

42828) Here you’re<br />

likely to get a welcome<br />

as warm as the colours<br />

with which this relaxing<br />

town café is decorated.<br />

A range of coff ees,<br />

drinks, cakes and<br />

snacks are available.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Zeros Club (Main Road,<br />

Laganas) Zeros has<br />

grown over its 20 years<br />

into one of the slickest<br />

resort nightclubs<br />

in Greece, with<br />

fi rebreathing and all<br />

sorts of antics alongside<br />

the unrelenting disco<br />

beats. Happy hour deals<br />

lure revellers.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP As most of the<br />

resorts aren’t fully open<br />

at this time of year, the<br />

best area for shopping<br />

is pedestrianised<br />

Alexandrou Roma<br />

Street in Zante<br />

Town, which has a<br />

reasonable choice of<br />

fashion, jewellery and<br />

souvenir shops.<br />

GO The suburb of<br />

Bohali, which perches<br />

2km above Zante Town,<br />

off ers an interesting<br />

combination of cafés, a<br />

picturesque church and<br />

the peaceful ruins of a<br />

huge Venetian fortress.<br />

Best of all is the sweeping<br />

panoramic views.<br />

NO WAY!<br />

The famous poet and<br />

writer of the Greek<br />

national anthem,<br />

Dionysios Solomos, was<br />

born on Zante.<br />

Nick Edwards<br />

Zürich<br />

Switzerland<br />

DIALLING CODE +41<br />

CURRENCY CHF<br />

FLY FROM<br />

London (LGW,<br />

LTN), Manchester<br />

FROM THE<br />

AIRPORT<br />

TAXI<br />

Pre-book your taxi<br />

at easyJet.com. A<br />

local taxi costs CHF60.<br />

Trains make the<br />

journey to the city<br />

centre every 15 minutes.<br />

Tickets: CHF6.20<br />

Visit the Europcar<br />

desk for special<br />

easyJet rates.<br />

BON APPETIT<br />

UP TO €30 Swiss<br />

Chuchi (10 Rosengasse,<br />

tel: 044 266 9696)<br />

Located in Hotel Adler,<br />

this traditional, cosy<br />

Swiss chalet-style<br />

restaurant serves local<br />

specialities such<br />

as raclette potatoes.<br />

EXCLUSIVE Widder<br />

Hotel (7 Rennweg, tel:<br />

044 224 2526) This<br />

luxury hotel inhabits<br />

eight historic houses<br />

and has a surprisingly<br />

innovative restaurant.<br />

It’s the perfect place<br />

for a modern take on a<br />

traditional Swiss supper,<br />

and is famous for jazz<br />

evenings in the deluxe<br />

bar every week, which<br />

make for a perfect<br />

post-dinner drink.<br />

Your apartment in LAAX, Switzerland<br />

AFTER DARK<br />

LOW KEY<br />

Sonnenberg (15<br />

Hitzigweg, tel: 044 266<br />

9797) Enjoy stunning<br />

views over Lake Zürich<br />

with afternoon coff ee<br />

and cakes or evening<br />

cocktails served by<br />

white-gloved waiters<br />

in this elegant bar.<br />

LATE & LIVELY<br />

Jade (25<br />

Brandschenkestrasse,<br />

tel: 044 202 8002)<br />

This ultra-chic and cool<br />

nightclub-restaurant has<br />

fast become Zürich’s<br />

most glamorous spot.<br />

The well-dressed crowd<br />

know how to party to the<br />

house soundtrack.<br />

THIS MONTH<br />

SHOP At Movie Art<br />

you’ll fi nd a large<br />

collection of rare<br />

postcards, posters,<br />

autographed photos<br />

and fi lm memorabilia,<br />

such as collectible toys<br />

and limited edition<br />

sets. You can buy Star<br />

Wars lasers and full-size<br />

model fi gures such as<br />

The Joker from Batman<br />

(17 Walchestrasse,<br />

movieart.ch).<br />

SEE Expovina<br />

Primavera, the spring<br />

wine fair that takes<br />

place from 17–29<br />

March, features wines<br />

from around the world<br />

that can be tasted under<br />

the expert guidance<br />

of renowned wine<br />

merchants (expovinaprimavera.ch).<br />

NO WAY!<br />

Zürich has the highest<br />

density of nightclubs<br />

in Switzerland.<br />

Celeste Neill<br />

rocksresort is a modern ski resort development situated at the base station of LAAX, with<br />

2-bedroom and 4-bedroom apartments for sale. Outstanding architecture, comprehensive<br />

owner services and a concept that guarantees rental income; all part of what makes rocksresort<br />

a unique investment. Contact us to find out more about this exciting opportunity.<br />

+41 (0)81 927 99 00, info@rocksresort.com, www.rocksresort.com


Real Estate - Immobilier<br />

Switzerland<br />

For your future property<br />

in Gstaad Valley & Swiss Prealps<br />

+41 (0) 26 925 10 00<br />

info@cfimmobilier.ch<br />

www.cfimmobilier.ch<br />

© Agence Synapses Bulle<br />

THE ULTIMATE IN LUXURY<br />

SURPRISINGLY AFFORDABLE<br />

A hotel of distinction, of glamour, of style, of tradition.<br />

Beautifully designed rooms with the delicate combination<br />

of art deco heritage and contemporary touches. A long<br />

history of first class service, spectacular facilities and<br />

amazing food. But at a price you can afford. Book online<br />

at www.theregentzagreb.com<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

Photo by: Hrvoje Serdar


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PHOTO © GUIDO CASTAGNOLI | INTERVIEW KIMBERLEY CHEN<br />

10<br />

PAGES OF<br />

NEWS AND<br />

UPDATES<br />

FROM<br />

Behind the Scenes<br />

Italian cabin crew Maria Abrate on keeping her passengers entertained<br />

WORKING IN THIS JOB has made me<br />

realise how easy travelling is. Anyone can<br />

fl y from somewhere like Milan to Barcelona<br />

during the day, and go home again in<br />

the evening. But then maybe I would say<br />

that, as I fl y more than most people! I’m<br />

usually in the air somewhere between 18<br />

and 20 days a month. I don’t have a set<br />

schedule – if it’s an early shift, I could start<br />

at 5am or 6am and, depending on the<br />

route, fi nish anywhere between 2pm and<br />

5pm. I love the variety of the job – every<br />

day is diff erent. You meet so many people,<br />

all from diff erent countries, and all with<br />

diff erent attitudes. I know whenever<br />

I greet our passengers as they board the<br />

plane that the day isn’t going to be boring.<br />

You think you’ve seen everything and<br />

then something completely unexpected<br />

happens! I couldn’t go back to having an<br />

offi ce job – my job gives me such a thrill.<br />

There are so many diff erent dynamics<br />

when you’re fl ying, and you don’t get the<br />

same feeling working in an offi ce. I get such<br />

an adrenaline buzz that even after I’ve<br />

fi nished work, I still feel energised.<br />

My colleagues and I are such a great<br />

team, and we’re always trying to think of<br />

new ways to entertain our passengers. One<br />

of the more unusual things that happened<br />

on a fl ight was when we had a stag party<br />

onboard. They asked my colleagues and<br />

NEWS | OUR PEOPLE<br />

I to sing something in the middle of the<br />

aisle in front of all the other passengers.<br />

We went for it and sang the theme tune<br />

from the fi lm 9½ Weeks!<br />

One of the biggest perks of my job is,<br />

of course, the travel. I’ve been to so many<br />

fantastic destinations it’s hard to choose<br />

my favourite, but I love Barcelona with<br />

its tapas restaurants, electric nightlife,<br />

fascinating history and culture. I’ve been<br />

to many easyJet destinations, but there<br />

are still more that I want to see. I’ve been<br />

working at easyJet for four years now, and<br />

I’m proud to say I feel like I’m part of a very<br />

special family. I want to stay working for<br />

this company for as long as possible.<br />

MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 183


CUSTOMER | CARE<br />

Great Customer Service<br />

At easyJet we want you to have<br />

a great experience onboard.<br />

We receive lots of feedback<br />

from you, our customers, and<br />

we really appreciate everything<br />

you tell us.<br />

It’s really important for us<br />

to know which of our pilots<br />

and cabin crew give really<br />

great customer service. That’s<br />

why we created the Spirit<br />

Awards – a programme that<br />

allows us to recognise our<br />

people for the great service<br />

you receive.<br />

Please let us know which of<br />

our crew members have shown<br />

their “orange spirit” by logging<br />

on to spirit.easyJet.com. We<br />

Our customer<br />

experience team is<br />

available to help you.<br />

They are open 8am –<br />

8pm Monday to<br />

Friday and 9am –<br />

5pm Saturday<br />

184 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />

really value your help! You’ll<br />

fi nd further details of how<br />

to get in touch with us in<br />

the yellow box below.<br />

We Need<br />

Your Help!<br />

Think any of our people<br />

have the orange spirit? Then<br />

let us know!<br />

• Find out the name of the<br />

cabin crew member or pilot<br />

• Log on to spirit.easyjet.com<br />

and vote for them, giving<br />

your fl ight details, name,<br />

and email address<br />

It’s as simple as that!<br />

Say “THANK YOU” and<br />

share the orange spirit!<br />

How to Contact Us easyJet.custhelp.com<br />

and Sunday<br />

(local times).*<br />

0871 244 2366<br />

0826 103 320<br />

899 234 589<br />

902 599 900<br />

01805 029 292<br />

0900 000 258<br />

0900 265 8020<br />

0703 203 025<br />

0900 000206<br />

Rest of the world<br />

+44 871 244 2366<br />

Wir brauchen<br />

Ihre Hilfe!<br />

Denken Sie, dass unsere<br />

Mitarbeiter den orangen<br />

Spirit haben? Dann lassen<br />

Sie uns das wissen!<br />

• Finden Sie den Namen des<br />

betreffenden Kabinenpersonals<br />

oder Piloten heraus<br />

• Gehen Sie ins Internet auf<br />

die Webseite spirit.easyjet.com<br />

und geben Sie Ihrem Favoriten<br />

Ihre Stimme, zusammen mit<br />

Ihrem Namen, Flugdaten und<br />

email Adresse<br />

So einfach ist das!!<br />

Sagen Sie “VIELEN<br />

DANK” und teilen Sie den<br />

orangen Spirit mit uns!<br />

* Please refer to<br />

easyJet.com for call<br />

charges. Calls may be<br />

recorded to improve<br />

your experience<br />

when travelling with<br />

or contacting us.<br />

Nous avons<br />

besoin de vous !<br />

Vous pensez que certains<br />

members de l’equipage ont l’esprit<br />

Orange? Faites le nous savoir !<br />

• Trouvez le nom du Cabin<br />

Crew ou du Pilote<br />

• Connectez vous sur spirit.<br />

easyjet.com et votez pour eux,<br />

en précisant les détails du vols,<br />

nom et l’adresse email.<br />

C’est aussi simple que cela !<br />

Dites « MERCI » and<br />

partagez l’esprit orange !<br />

Abbiamo<br />

Bisogno<br />

del tuo aiuto !<br />

Pensi che qualcuno tra il nostro<br />

Equipaggio ha l’ Orange<br />

Spirit ? Allora , facci sapere !<br />

• Allora , scoprite il nome<br />

dell’Assistente di Volo o<br />

Pilota del volo di oggi, anche<br />

chiededolo direttamente<br />

.Saranno felici di darvelo !<br />

• Potete quindi votarlo<br />

visitando il sito spirit.easyjet.<br />

com , inserendo i dettagli<br />

del vostro volo, nome e<br />

indirizzo email.<br />

E’ facilissimo!<br />

Digli “GRAZIE” e dividi<br />

|con noi lo Spirito Orange !<br />

Necesitamos<br />

tu ayuda!<br />

Crees que alguno de nuestra<br />

gente o equipo tiene el Espiritu<br />

Naranja? Avisanos!<br />

• Averigua el nombre de el<br />

Cabin Crew o Piloto<br />

• Haz Log-in en spirit.easyjet.<br />

com y vota por ellos,<br />

dándonos los detalles de tu<br />

vuelo, nombre y dirección<br />

de email.<br />

Tan simple como eso!<br />

Di “gracias” y comparte el<br />

Espíritu Naranja!!<br />

Follow us on Twitter<br />

@easyJetCare<br />

We’re on Twitter – follow<br />

us to receive information<br />

on how to make your<br />

travel experience better.


Your Conduct Onboard<br />

Please consider your fellow<br />

passengers while onboard this<br />

fl ight and in particular the<br />

following information, which is<br />

in place in the interest of your<br />

safety and comfort.<br />

★ Smoking<br />

Smoking on any easyJet<br />

fl ight is strictly forbidden.<br />

★ Alcohol<br />

As explained in our retail<br />

brochure, alcoholic drinks are<br />

available onboard. These are<br />

served at the crew’s discretion to<br />

passengers of legal drinking age.<br />

While onboard, you can consume<br />

alcoholic drinks purchased at the<br />

easyJet Bistro only. Duty-free<br />

alcohol can be purchased from<br />

the easyJet Boutique but cannot<br />

be consumed onboard.<br />

★ Safety Equipment<br />

In accordance with UK and<br />

international law, the captain is<br />

in command of the aircraft and<br />

Quick Facts<br />

★ We have 552<br />

routes, fl y to 130<br />

airports and operate<br />

in 30 countries!<br />

★ easyJet employs<br />

3,848 cabin crew<br />

across the network,<br />

with a further 375<br />

Swiss cabin crew.*<br />

★ We operate 198<br />

aircraft, including 191<br />

Seating capacity<br />

Number of crew<br />

Take-off speed<br />

Cruising speed<br />

Range<br />

every person onboard shall obey<br />

his or her lawful commands. In<br />

fact, captains have the authority<br />

to take any actions they deem<br />

necessary to manage passengers<br />

who are disruptive or cause<br />

problems during fl ights.<br />

Please be reminded not to<br />

tamper with or remove any<br />

safety equipment onboard this<br />

aircraft, including the lifejackets.<br />

Any unauthorised actions<br />

may jeopardise the safety of<br />

other passengers and lead to<br />

prosecution. As explained in the<br />

safety announcement, lifejackets<br />

are provided only in the event of<br />

passengers landing on water.<br />

★ Sharps Boxes<br />

Hypodermic<br />

needles are<br />

permitted onboard<br />

for medical use and<br />

should always be disposed of<br />

Hypodermic<br />

syringes<br />

in a sharps box. If you need to<br />

dispose of a needle, please contact<br />

a member of the cabin crew.<br />

Airbus and 7 Boeing<br />

737s. Our fl eet is one<br />

of the youngest in<br />

the world with an<br />

average aircraft age<br />

of 3.5 years!<br />

★ easyJet has been<br />

unveiled as Business<br />

Traveller Magazine’s<br />

Best Low-Cost<br />

Airline for the 10th<br />

consecutive year.<br />

Boeing 737-700<br />

149<br />

2 pilots and 3 cabin crew<br />

260 km/h<br />

853 km/h<br />

6,115km<br />

★ easyJet has won the<br />

award for Best Airline<br />

Website by Travolution,<br />

the UK’s leading online<br />

multimedia travel<br />

industry publication.<br />

The highly prestigious<br />

★ Use of<br />

Electronic Devices<br />

Electronic devices, including<br />

mobile phones, cannot be used<br />

while walking to/from the<br />

aircraft and must be switched off<br />

during take-off and landing.<br />

However, electronic devices<br />

that you can use during the<br />

fl ight after take-off and before<br />

landing include:<br />

★ Bluetooth devices,<br />

excluding telephones<br />

★ Devices that have a “fl ight<br />

mode” or “fl ight-safe” setting,<br />

provided the fl ight-safe mode<br />

setting is enabled before the<br />

aircraft doors are closed<br />

★ Laptops, including those with<br />

built-in WLAN/Wi-Fi, provided<br />

the WLAN/Wi-Fi is turned off<br />

★ Electronic games, MP3, DVD<br />

and CD players<br />

If in doubt, please keep devices<br />

switched off for the duration<br />

of the fl ight as they may interfere<br />

with our systems<br />

Airbus A319<br />

156<br />

awards recognised<br />

easyJet.com as,<br />

“Straightforward and<br />

easy to use, this much-<br />

improved website<br />

has managed to<br />

integrate discreet<br />

2 pilots and 4 cabin crew<br />

240 km/h<br />

805 km/h<br />

4,830km<br />

PASSENGER | INFO<br />

use of up-selling and<br />

has integrated its<br />

partners in a smart<br />

way, all with some<br />

cutting-edge user<br />

experience tools.”<br />

*correct as of 17 December 2010<br />

Airbus A320<br />

174/180<br />

2 pilots and 4 cabin crew<br />

240 km/h<br />

837 km/h<br />

4,910km<br />

MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 185


NOTICIAS | ESPANA<br />

Siéntete sumiller por unos días<br />

easyJet propone la mejor alternativa<br />

a la rutina y al aburrimiento: un<br />

apasionante viaje sensorial a Burdeos<br />

para los auténticos amantes del vino.<br />

Color, aroma, sabor y textura<br />

excelentes son sinónimo de<br />

denominación de origen Burdeos.<br />

Bañada por el río Garona, esta<br />

encantadora ciudad del sudoeste de<br />

Francia, etapa incondicional del “Tour<br />

de France”, es internacionalmente<br />

conocida por sus selectos productores<br />

de vino fruto de unas condiciones<br />

climatológicas temperadas y la gran<br />

riqueza del terreno.<br />

Cerca de la costa atlántica, Burdeos<br />

se ha convertido en una parada<br />

obligada en las rutas del “enoturismo”<br />

o turismo enológico. Sus paisajes y<br />

bodegas de renombre, y sus museos del<br />

vino ganan adeptos día a día, igual que<br />

Bucarest o Edimburgo, conecta<br />

con la tranquilidad y el relax<br />

Si lo que quieres es desconectar de la<br />

rutina, easyJet te propone dos pociones<br />

totalmente diferentes pero tan atractivas<br />

que no sabrás por cuál decidirte.<br />

Bucarest, capital de Rumanía, es<br />

también denominada “El pequeño París”<br />

por sus grandes avenidas rodeadas de<br />

árboles. De hecho, un ejemplo de su<br />

parecido es la impresionante Avenida<br />

Kisseleff (aun más larga que los famosos<br />

Champs Elysées) con árboles repletos<br />

de fl ores a sus lados y en la que se puede<br />

encontrar un Arco de Triunfo. Pasar unos<br />

días en esta ciudad te encantará y easyJet<br />

te lo pone fácil con vuelos a Bucarest<br />

desde sólo 32,99 euros por trayecto<br />

(tasas incluidas).<br />

186 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />

sus otras exquisiteces arquitectónicas<br />

(anfi teatro, iglesias románicas, teatros<br />

y la catedral), en especial el Puerto de la<br />

Luna, Patrimonio de la Humanidad por<br />

la UNESCO en 2007.<br />

Ideal para los paladares entusiastas,<br />

Burdeos también da la bienvenida al<br />

verano homenajeando a su joya más<br />

preciada con un certamen anual de<br />

renombre mundial, el “Bordeaux fête le<br />

vin” (a fi nales de junio).<br />

El vino es tradición y cultura, es un<br />

placer, con moderación, saludable.<br />

Dejarse seducir por la magia de la<br />

capital del vino, de la cultura y del<br />

deporte ahora es muy fácil con la<br />

nueva ruta de easyJet Madrid-Burdeos<br />

(vuelos desde 24,99 euros por trayecto,<br />

tasas incluidas). A partir de marzo,<br />

easyJet hará las delicias de todos los<br />

amantes del vino.<br />

Por otro lado, visitar la ciudad de<br />

Edimburgo es un lujo para todos los<br />

sentidos. Pasear por sus antiguas calles,<br />

recorrer de una punta a otra la Royal<br />

Mile hasta llegar al precioso castillo de<br />

cuento que preside la ciudad sobre una<br />

colina, son sólo algunas de las muchas<br />

cosas que puedes hacer en Edimburgo<br />

para relajarte. Y, para los amantes de la<br />

naturaleza, nada mejor que ir a pasar el<br />

día en las Highlands, en pleno contacto<br />

con la naturaleza pura. easyJet te ofrece<br />

vuelos desde sólo 27,99 euros por trayecto<br />

(tasas incluidas).<br />

No te lo pienses más y huye del día a<br />

día volando a uno de estos dos increíbles<br />

destinos. ¡No te arrepentirás!<br />

Un destino<br />

exótico, la<br />

receta para<br />

olvidarse<br />

del frío<br />

En esta época nada apetece<br />

más que visitar destinos tan<br />

exóticos como Tánger. Miles<br />

de colores y aromas inundan<br />

la ciudad y la dotan de un<br />

aire especial.<br />

Para ir abriendo boca en<br />

este sorprendente país, te<br />

proponemos visitar el Dar El<br />

Makhzen, antiguo Palacio del<br />

Gobernador hoy convertido<br />

en un museo de las artes<br />

marroquíes, con piezas de todo<br />

el país. Los zocos aguardan la<br />

esencia de la cultura y la magia<br />

de Marruecos. El Zoco Pequeño<br />

es el corazón de la medina y uno<br />

de los lugares con más encanto<br />

para pasear por Tánger. Dentro<br />

del Zoco Grande se encuentra<br />

la mezquita de Sidi Bou Abid,<br />

con un minarete recubierto<br />

de cerámica policromada, y<br />

también podrás acceder al<br />

parque de la Mendoubia, el cual<br />

contiene un drago al que se le<br />

atribuyen 800 años.<br />

Sentarse a tomar un café en<br />

el Café Hafa, que data de 1921,<br />

te relajará a la vez que te podrás<br />

deleitar con las increíbles vistas<br />

del estrecho y la costa española<br />

que se observan desde una de<br />

sus terrazas rodeadas de fl ores.<br />

Sumergirse en una cultura<br />

totalmente diferente es mucho<br />

más fácil de lo que te imaginas:<br />

a tan sólo una hora y media<br />

y con vuelos desde tan sólo<br />

12,99 euros por trayecto (tasas<br />

incluidas) volando con easyJet.


Siete invitati<br />

al matrimonio<br />

dell’anno<br />

Il 29 aprile si celebrano le tanto attese<br />

nozze del principe Williams con la sua amata<br />

Kate Middleton.<br />

Se volete vedere l’evento dal vivo,<br />

easyJet sarà felice di scortarvi fi no a Londra.<br />

All’invito alleghiamo anche nuovi voli da<br />

Bologna, a partire da 29,99€ a tratta tasse<br />

incluse, e da Verona, da 34€ a tratta tasse<br />

incluse. Naturalmente potete approfi ttarne<br />

anche se volete solo visitare la capitale inglese.<br />

Non c’è bisogno di aspettare un’occasione<br />

speciale per farlo.<br />

Un’estate<br />

romantica per<br />

i piu’ fortunati<br />

Se siete così fortunati da abitare nei dintorni<br />

di Brindisi, non dovete certo attendere<br />

l’estate per vedere il mare. E se a baciarvi<br />

non c’è solo la dea bendata, ma anche una<br />

persona in carne e ossa, allora vi suggeriamo<br />

di portarla nella capitale dell’amore. Così<br />

potrete fare quelle tipiche cose da innamorati<br />

a Parigi: passeggiare mano nella mano per<br />

la ville lumière, cenare a base di ostriche e<br />

champagne sulla Tour Eiff el e comprare un<br />

lussuoso souvenir delle gioiellerie di Place<br />

Vendôme. O un lussurioso ricordo di Rue<br />

de Pigalle, il quartiere del Moulin Rouge?<br />

Comunque sia, lasciate a noi il piacere di farvi<br />

un altro regalo: portarvi da Brindisi a Parigi<br />

a partire da 41,99€ a tratta, tasse incluse.<br />

1<br />

easyJet ti ricorda<br />

Puoi portare a bordo un solo bagaglio a mano,<br />

incluse borsette e borse per computer portatili.<br />

MINORCA LA SELVAGGIA<br />

Spiagge: la natura più rigogliosa si trova<br />

a nord dell’isola, a Cala Morell, vicino alle<br />

grotte preistoriche. I surfi sti prediligono<br />

il vento di Cala Tirant, mentre i nudisti si<br />

ritrovano a Cala Coves. Se però per voi la<br />

garanzia di qualità è data dalle spiagge<br />

frequentate dai menorchini, segnatevi<br />

Cala Mesquida.<br />

Locali: facile trovare discoteche sulla<br />

spiaggia. Ma in quanti possono vantarsi<br />

di aver ballato in una grotta naturale<br />

a strapiombo sul mare? Voi potreste<br />

essere tra quei fortunati: andate a<br />

Cova d’en Xoroi. Se invece cercate un<br />

buon posto dove mangiare, spostatevi<br />

verso l’interno e provate la caldereta de<br />

langosta di Ca N’Olga.<br />

Curiosità: sapevate che qui a<br />

Minorca è stata inventata la maionese?<br />

Pare che il suo nome venga proprio da<br />

Mahon, il capoluogo dell’isola. E pare<br />

che già i latini sapessero apprezzarla.<br />

Anche senza hot dog.<br />

Voli: da Milano Malpensa e da<br />

Roma Fiumicino a partire da 26,99€<br />

a tratta, tasse incluse.<br />

MAIORCA L’IMPREVEDIBILE<br />

Spiagge: il litorale più lungo delle Baleari si<br />

trova qui. Si chiama El Arenal e percorrerlo<br />

dall’inizio alla fi ne signifi ca passeggiare<br />

per cinque chilometri di sabbia fi nissima.<br />

Se dopo vi verrà voglia di tuff arvi in mare,<br />

fatelo nelle acque da bandiera blu di Cala<br />

Estància. A Ca’n Pastilla invece si fa scorta<br />

di sole e sobrasada.<br />

NOTIZIE | ITALIA<br />

Le isole dove isolarsi, e non solo.<br />

Abbiamo messo a confronto le Baleari. Quale secondo voi<br />

è la meta giusta per passare l’estate in (buona) compagnia?<br />

Qualunque sia la vostra risposta, il nostro consiglio rimane<br />

sempre lo stesso. Prenotate subito, prima che l’occasione voli via<br />

2<br />

Locali: il bar Abaco è unico nel suo<br />

genere. Non aspettatevi di trovare un<br />

barman al bancone, qui i cocktail si<br />

preparano direttamente nella cucina di<br />

questo palazzo rinascimentale. Preferite<br />

un bicchiere di vino? La Taberna La Boveda<br />

avrà sicuramente qualcosa di vostro gusto.<br />

Non fatevi scoraggiare dalla fi la e vedrete<br />

che la vostra pazienza sarà premiata.<br />

Curiosità: dal 1912 un piccolo treno di<br />

legno percorre i 27 chilometri tra Palma<br />

e Sóller. Fateci un giro e farete un viaggio<br />

anche nel tempo.<br />

Voli: da Milano Malpensa a partire da<br />

26,99€ a tratta, tasse incluse.<br />

IBIZA L’INSONNE<br />

Spiagge: se cercate la sabbia fi ne e bianca,<br />

andate a Talamanca. Se preferite gli scogli,<br />

spostatevi a Cala Xarraca. Di certo se siete<br />

venuti fi no a Ibiza lo avete fatto anche per<br />

la movida. E allora aspettate che cali il sole<br />

sulla Playa d’en Bossa.<br />

Locali: c’è l’imbarazzo della scelta.<br />

Meglio il Privilege, il nightclub più grande<br />

del mondo, l’Amnesia, famosa per i suoi<br />

schiuma-party, o la vista del tramonto<br />

dal Café del Mar? Provatele tutte e poi<br />

giudicate voi stessi. E’ uno sporco lavoro,<br />

ma qualcuno lo deve pur fare.<br />

Curiosità: quasi tutti i vip passano le loro<br />

serate a El Divino. Poi tornano a dormire<br />

all’hotel Pikes. Preparate la macchina<br />

fotografi ca.<br />

Voli: da Milano Malpensa a partire da<br />

24,99€ a tratta, tasse incluse. Da Roma<br />

Fiumicino, Napoli e Venezia a partire da<br />

26,99€ a tratta, tasse incluse.<br />

Evita le code in aeroporto. Fai il check-in online e scegli il baggage<br />

drop-off : puoi imbarcare il tuo bagaglio senza code al check-in.<br />

MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 187


DERNIÈRES INFOS/NEUIGKEITEN | SUISSE/SCHWEIZ<br />

Nouveau: Genève-Saint<br />

Jacques de Compostelle<br />

Afi n de répondre à une<br />

demande toujours croissante en<br />

direction de l’Espagne, easyJet<br />

a décidé d’élargir le nombre<br />

de destinations desservies au<br />

départ de Genève. A partir du<br />

15 mai <strong>2011</strong> il sera possible de<br />

vous envoler directement vers<br />

Saint-Jacques de Compostelle<br />

deux fois par semaine, les jeudis<br />

et dimanches. Les billets sont en<br />

La flotte s’agrandit à Genève<br />

Le 15 mai prochain, easyJet fêtera l’arrivée d’un<br />

nouvel airbus sur le tarmac genevois. Ce douzième<br />

avion confortera easyJet dans sa position<br />

de leader en Suisse Romande et permettra<br />

l’augmentation de fréquences sur Madrid (Jusqu’à<br />

3/jour) ainsi que sur Barcelone (Jusqu’à 4/jour).<br />

Südseestrände und Tavernen<br />

Nur einen Katzensprung von Thessaloniki<br />

entfernt, liegt die Halbinsel Chalkidiki mit ihren<br />

drei Landzungen Kassandra, Sithonia und<br />

Athos. Während die Mönchsrepublik Athos<br />

größtenteils nur von Booten aus bewundert<br />

werden kann, verwöhnen Kassandra und<br />

Sithonia mit südseeartigen Sandstränden und<br />

türkisfarbenem Wasser. Die beschaulichen<br />

Dörfer und traditionellen Tavernen versprühen<br />

griechisches Lebensgefühl und Gastlichkeit. Nicht<br />

selten, entdeckt man hier noch Geheimtipps mit<br />

Sommerziele ab Basel-Freiburg<br />

Kennen Sie schon unsere beliebtesten Sommerziele<br />

ab Basel-Freiburg? Mit Olbia und Cagliari fl iegen wir<br />

im Sommer gleich zwei Städte auf Sardinien an. Die<br />

italienische Mittelmeerinsel mit den ausgezeichneten<br />

Weinen und ihrer sardischen Küche lässt nicht nur<br />

Feinschmeckerherzen höher schlagen! Malerische<br />

Buchten, kristallklares Meer, weiße Sandstrände und<br />

Sonnenschein verwandeln die Insel in ein Paradies<br />

für Wassersportler und Badenixen. Nur durch die<br />

Straße von Bonifatio von Sardinien getrennt, fi ndet<br />

man auf der französischen Nachbarinsel Korsika<br />

eine ursprüngliche, fast wilde Naturlandschaft,<br />

* One-Way, ggf. zuzüglich variabler Gebühren für aufzugebendes Gepäck und Kreditkartenzahlung. Preis nur für ausgewählte Ziele und Flüge. Stand: 17. Januar <strong>2011</strong><br />

188 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />

vente dès maintenant à partir<br />

de 36.95CHF l’aller simple TTC<br />

et complètent une large off re<br />

vers la péninsule Ibérique avec<br />

Madrid, Barcelone, Malaga,<br />

Alicante, Ibiza, Majorque,<br />

Asturies. Ne tardez plus<br />

afi n de bénéfi cier des<br />

prix les plus bas.<br />

En comptabilisant cette machine, easyJet a investi<br />

pas moins de 300 millions de CHF sur le <strong>march</strong>é<br />

Helvétique ces dix-huit derniers mois et créé plus<br />

de 200 emplois. Acteur majeur de l’économie en<br />

Suisse, ce sont plus de 6.6 millions de passagers<br />

qu’easyJet transporte en Suisse chaque année.<br />

vom Chef selbst zubereiteten Spezialitäten auf<br />

der Karte. In Thessalonikis zahlreichen Läden in<br />

Egnatia und auf dem lebhaften Wochenmarkt<br />

fi nden Sie passende Souvenirs für zu Hause,<br />

anschließend laden im historischen Viertel<br />

Ladadika reizvolle Tavernen zum Verweilen ein.<br />

Starten Sie mit bis zu dreimal in der Woche von<br />

Basel-Freiburg nach Thessaloniki ab 36,95 CHF*!<br />

weite Strände, einsame Buchten und facettenreiche<br />

Ortschaften. Mallorca-Liebhaber fl iegen mit uns<br />

nach Palma, in die Hauptstadt der Baleareninsel.<br />

Oder wie wäre es zur Abwechslung in diesem<br />

Sommer mit einem Abstecher in die Hafenstadt<br />

Split an der kroatischen Adria? Flüge ab Basel-<br />

Freiburg in die korsische Hauptstadt Ajaccio, nach<br />

Olbia und Cagliari auf Sardinien sowie nach Mallorca<br />

und Split gibt es bei uns für Frühbucher bereits ab<br />

28,95 CHF*! Übrigens Ihr Sportgepäck können Sie<br />

unter easyJet.com ganz einfach per Mausklick zu<br />

Ihren Flügen hinzubuchen!<br />

Nouveau:<br />

Genève-<br />

Mykonos<br />

Une fois de plus easyJet prouve que nous<br />

sommes le leader romand de l’évasion. Avec la<br />

nouvelle desserte de Mykonos, qui complète<br />

notre off re vers la Crête avec Heraklion, ce ne<br />

sont pas moins de 51 destinations qui sont<br />

opérées depuis la cité de Calvin. Mykonos<br />

sera opéré à partir du 15 juin jusqu’au 17<br />

septembre <strong>2011</strong> jusqu’à deux fois par semaine<br />

les mercredis et samedis. L’aller simple est<br />

accessible à partir de 54.95CHF TTC. Pour<br />

bénéfi cier des prix les plus bas, réservez dès<br />

maintenant sur easyJet.com<br />

Frühlingstipp<br />

– nicht nur für<br />

Romantiker<br />

Prachtvolle Paläste, verwinkelte Gassen,<br />

über einhundertsiebzig Kanäle, hunderte<br />

von Brücken und lauschige Plätze – Venedig,<br />

dessen historischer Kern sich auf über<br />

einhundert kleine Inseln erstreckt, ist unser<br />

Städtetipp – nicht nur für Romantiker!<br />

Markusdom, Dogenpalast und Canale<br />

Grande – dem Zauber der einzigartigen<br />

Szenerie Venedigs berühmtester<br />

Sehenswürdigkeiten, in der Frühlingssonne<br />

aus dem traditionsreichen Caff è Florian<br />

auf dem Markusplatz betrachtet, kann sich<br />

niemand entziehen. Bei einer Gondelfahrt<br />

auf Casanovas Spuren taucht man<br />

unwillkürlich ein in die venezianische<br />

Vergangenheit als führendes Kultur- und<br />

Handelszentrum Europas, bevor man vom<br />

Campanile, dem höchsten Glockenturm<br />

Venedigs, die gesamte Lagune überblickt.<br />

Wir fl iegen Sie bis zu dreimal in der Woche<br />

ab Basel-Freiburg in die romantische<br />

Lagunenstadt. Buchen Sie Ihre Flüge ab<br />

36,95 CHF* einfach unter easyJet.com!


Ostern im sonnigen Süden<br />

Ostern liegt dieses Jahr perfekt für einen Urlaub<br />

im Süden! Ende April lässt sich in Griechenland<br />

und Spanien bereits nach Herzenslust unter<br />

der wärmenden Sonne im Pool oder gar im<br />

Mittelmeer planschen. Bei einem Osterurlaub<br />

in Griechenland können Sie in diesem Jahr die<br />

griechischen Osterbräuche kennen lernen, denn<br />

der griechisch-orthodoxe und unser westlicher<br />

Ostersonntag fallen ausnahmsweise beide<br />

auf den 24. April. Rot gefärbte Ostereier und<br />

Osterbrote sind typisch für das griechische<br />

Osterfest, dessen Höhepunkte die Prozessionen<br />

am Karfreitag-Abend und der Gottesdienst in der<br />

Nacht von Samstag auf Ostersonntag sind. Das<br />

an die Messe anschließende Osterfeuerwerk und<br />

zahlreiche Knallfrösche geben den Startschuss<br />

zum eigentlichen Osterfest. Nach vierzigtägiger<br />

Fastenzeit wird an Ostersonntag und Ostermontag<br />

nach griechischem Gusto mit Tanz und Musik<br />

so richtig gefeiert. Auch in Spanien nimmt die<br />

Semana Santa, die Karwoche, einen bedeutenden<br />

Platz im Jahreskalender ein. Im ganzen Land<br />

fi nden in der Heiligen Woche, vor allem aber an<br />

Karfreitag, beeindruckende Prozessionen statt.<br />

Maskierte Träger mit Christus- und Marienfi guren,<br />

Büßer in langen Kutten, verschleiert mit<br />

Spitzhauben, sowie Trommlergruppen<br />

versammeln sich zu den geheimnisvollen<br />

Umzügen. In Andalusien werden die Prozessionen<br />

von Musikkapellen mit Schlaginstrumenten und<br />

Hörnern begleitet, unterbrochen von arabisch<br />

klingenden Klageliedern. Im andalusischen Malaga<br />

und auf der Ferieninsel Mallorca sind die Oster-<br />

Prozessionen beliebte Touristenattraktionen,<br />

während tagsüber die Frühlingssonne lacht.<br />

Da bleibt ausreichend Zeit für entspannende<br />

Wanderungen in der farbenfroh blühenden Natur,<br />

Sonnenbaden am Meer, Einkaufsbummel auf<br />

bunten Märkten und die mediterrane Küche. Oder<br />

feiern Sie dieses Jahr Ostern doch mal auf den<br />

griechischen Inseln, in Griechenlands Hauptstadt<br />

oder auf Chalkidiki. Fliegen Sie mit uns täglich<br />

von Berlin nach Athen sowie von Berlin und<br />

Dortmund nach Thessaloniki bereits ab 31,99 €*.<br />

Spanien-Liebhaber starten mit uns von Dortmund<br />

und Berlin nach Mallorca und Barcelona sowie<br />

von Berlin nach Malaga und Madrid bereits<br />

ab 39,99€*. Sichern Sie sich Ihre Osterfl üge<br />

frühzeitig unter easyJet.com und entdecken Sie<br />

Warteschlange? Nein, danke!<br />

Haben Sie auch heute schon wieder<br />

genervt in der langen Warteschlange<br />

der Sicherheitskontrolle gestanden und<br />

nervös auf die Uhr geblickt? Das Warten<br />

kann für Sie ein Ende haben! Denn mit<br />

unserem Speedy Boarding Service oder<br />

unserer easyJetPlus!-Karte können<br />

Sie in Hamburg, Köln, Düsseldorf und<br />

München jetzt ganz einfach kostenlos<br />

die Fast- oder Premium-Lane der<br />

NEUIGKEITEN | DEUTSCHLAND<br />

Einmal Tapas<br />

und zurück<br />

Kunterbunt und sonnig präsentiert sich<br />

die spanische Mittelmeerstadt Barcelona<br />

mit Antoni Gaudís phantastischen Bauten<br />

von der Sagrada Familia bis zur Casa<br />

Batlló und coolen Shops mit kreativem<br />

Design. Nach einem Besuch der Museen<br />

Joan Miró und Picasso wird es Zeit für eine<br />

Tapas-Tour durch Picassos Stammkneipe<br />

Els Quatre Gats und die beiden<br />

berühmten Bars El Xampanyet und Euskal<br />

Etxea in den verwinkelten Altstadtgassen.<br />

Die Barcelonesen starten mit Tapas ins<br />

quirlige Nachtleben. Machen auch Sie die<br />

Nacht zum Tag und schnappen Sie sich<br />

Ihre Flüge von Berlin und Dortmund nach<br />

Barcelona ab 41,99 €* unter easyJet.com!<br />

Jetzt neu:<br />

Zagreb<br />

über dreißig weitere attraktive Reiseziele! Wir haben unseren Flugplan ab<br />

Nordrhein-Westfalen für Sie erweitert<br />

und fl iegen Sie jetzt neu bis zu dreimal<br />

in der Woche, jeweils donnerstags,<br />

Sicherheitskontrolle nehmen für eine<br />

schnellere Abfertigung. Und nicht<br />

nur das! Am Flugsteig angekommen,<br />

ersparen Sie sich erneut langes Anstehen<br />

dank bevorzugtem Einsteigen und<br />

gehen entspannt als einer der Ersten an<br />

Bord, wo Sie sich in Ruhe Ihren Sitzplatz<br />

wählen können. Weitere Infos zu Speedy<br />

Boarding und easyJetPlus! fi nden Sie<br />

unter easyJet.com.<br />

dienstags und samstags, von Dortmund<br />

in die kroatische Hauptstadt Zagreb.<br />

Kaff eehäuser und Straßencafés<br />

versprühen in der Stadt am Fuße des<br />

Medvednica-Gebirges mediterranes<br />

Flair und südländisches Lebensgefühl.<br />

Preiswerte Mode und zahlreiche<br />

Einkaufsmöglichkeiten machen Zagreb<br />

zum beliebten Einkaufsziel. Buchen Sie<br />

Ihre Flüge in die Balkanmetropole<br />

ab 26,99 €* einfach unter easyJet.com!<br />

* One-Way, ggf. zuzüglich variabler Gebühren für aufzugebendes Gepäck und Kreditkartenzahlung. Preis nur für ausgewählte Ziele und Flüge. Stand: 24. Januar <strong>2011</strong><br />

MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 189


DERNIERES INFOS | FRANCE<br />

A Vérone, sur les traces<br />

de Roméo et Juliette<br />

Au départ de Paris ou Lyon, à partir de 29€ aller<br />

simple, taxes incluses<br />

Non ! En allant à Venise, vous n’êtes<br />

pas prisonnier de la lagune. Louez<br />

une voiture chez notre partenaire<br />

Europcar à tarif préférentiel et visitez<br />

toute la Vénétie. Si votre romantisme<br />

échevelé s’accommode mal d’un<br />

abandon de la cité des doges, partez<br />

directement à Vérone.<br />

Vous aurez tout loisir de faire<br />

étape à Padoue et de visiter ensuite<br />

les multiples vestiges d’une ville qui<br />

prend ses racines sur les rives du<br />

fl euve Adige.<br />

20 kilomètres de plage<br />

et vous ! Agadir vous attend<br />

Au départ de Paris et Lyon<br />

L’aéroport international d’Agadir est<br />

fréquenté par plus d’un million de visiteurs<br />

par an et Agadir dispose d’une surface<br />

d’accueil impressionnante : il y a de la<br />

place pour tout le monde.<br />

Agadir, ville de 600 000 habitants, offre une<br />

magnifique baie, la plus ensoleillée du monde.<br />

Ses 20 km de plage réjouissent toute l'année<br />

des milliers de vacanciers, même en hiver.<br />

Ville à l'européenne par excellence, Agadir est<br />

190 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />

Admirez les très nombreux<br />

monuments romains puis dirigezvous<br />

avec ferveur vers la maison de<br />

Juliette. La construction remonte au<br />

XIII siècle. La cour intérieure vous<br />

permet d’accéder au fameux balcon<br />

de…Juliette. La maison étant ouverte<br />

du mardi au dimanche de 9h00<br />

à 19h00, vous aurez tout loisir de<br />

revenir avec votre voiture de location<br />

à l’aéroport Marco Polo où votre<br />

avion retour vous attendra en fi n<br />

d’après-midi pour Paris ou Lyon.<br />

dotée du plus grand parc hôtelier du pays.<br />

Dès que vous sortirez de la station<br />

balnéaire, vous cheminerez dans le<br />

Souss, une région particulièrement<br />

fertile, le Verger du Maroc avec des cultures<br />

fruitières et vivrières à perte de vue.<br />

Faites-vous du bien. Réservez dès<br />

maintenant et profi tez de la douceur du<br />

printemps pour une cure de remise en<br />

forme immédiate !<br />

Il y a une vie<br />

après la<br />

Folle Journée<br />

de Nantes<br />

Au départ de Lyon,<br />

à partir de 28€ aller<br />

simple, taxes incluses<br />

La Folle Journée de Nantes est l’un des<br />

événements les plus importants du<br />

calendrier culturel français ; si vous avez<br />

manqué l’édition <strong>2011</strong>, ne pleurez pas. Il<br />

vous reste tellement d’occasions de vous<br />

déplacer à Nantes. Réservez déjà aux prix<br />

les plus attractifs votre billet pour assister à<br />

l’édition <strong>2011</strong> du festival Heures d’été. Vous<br />

y rencontrez dès l’entrée dans l’été, des<br />

personnalités étonnantes, des conteurs,<br />

des musiciens, des écrivains et surtout des<br />

hommes et des femmes de tous pays.<br />

Aux heures d’été développe une ligne<br />

artistique exigeante et originale: présenter<br />

sur scène des projets de rencontres entre<br />

des artistes d’ici et d’ailleurs, des artistes<br />

en situation interculturelle au travers de<br />

créations inédites sensibles et personnelles<br />

et de premières scènes qui affi rment un fort<br />

esprit de découverte. Vous trouverez une ville<br />

transformée où chaque lieu, qu’il soit parc,<br />

place ou cadre plus intime accueille tout au long<br />

de la semaine toutes les cultures du monde.


PHOTOS © ALAMY<br />

Right Royal Destinations<br />

Dig out your fi nest hat, put the champagne<br />

on ice and stock up on those souvenir tea<br />

towels – Royal Wedding fever’s set to sweep<br />

the nation. History will be made on 29 April,<br />

as Prince William marries Kate Middleton at<br />

Westminster Abbey. We’re celebrating the<br />

impending nuptials by looking at destinations<br />

that have a special link to the royal couple,<br />

along with other great reasons to visit them.<br />

LONDON<br />

Over 600,000 people lined the streets of<br />

London for the wedding of Charles and<br />

Diana in July 1981, including Prime Minster<br />

David Cameron, who camped out on the<br />

Mall. Though Dave will enjoy a ringside seat<br />

in Westminster Abbey for Wills and Kate’s<br />

nuptials, you can still have an unforgettable<br />

day by being part of the crowds at this<br />

historic event. With an abundance of pomp<br />

and ceremony, the atmosphere is sure to be<br />

electric – just don’t forget your fl ask of tea<br />

and sandwiches.<br />

We fl y to London from Belfast International,<br />

Belfast City, Edinburgh, Glasgow and<br />

Newcastle from £29.99*<br />

ST ANDREWS (EDINBURGH)<br />

Take a trip to where the fairytale began:<br />

Scotland’s picturesque St Andrews. Kate<br />

met her Prince Charming while studying at<br />

its historic university and she wasn’t the<br />

only girl to graduate with fi rst-class honours<br />

in the love department. A recent survey found<br />

10% of St Andrew’s alumni married a fellow<br />

student, making it the “Best Matchmaking<br />

University in the UK”. The town is also famous<br />

for its golf courses, which are sure to provide<br />

a perfect getaway for anyone who needs<br />

a break from the bunting.<br />

We fl y to Edinburgh from Gatwick, Luton,<br />

Stansted, Bristol and Belfast International<br />

from £23.99*<br />

IBIZA<br />

Kate wowed onlookers as she soaked up<br />

the Balearic sunshine in a white bikini while<br />

holidaying with Wills and pals in 2006. Though<br />

the elusive twosome spent most of their time<br />

onboard a private yacht, it’s believed that they<br />

enjoyed nights out on the island’s legendary<br />

party scene. Get your groove on in the White Isle<br />

this summer and dance till dawn and beyond at<br />

the likes of Pacha, Space and DC10.<br />

We fl y to Ibiza from Gatwick, Luton, Stansted,<br />

Belfast International, Bristol, Glasgow, Liverpool<br />

and Newcastle from £40.99*<br />

KLOSTERS (GENEVA)<br />

Royal watchers round the world felt a fl urry of<br />

excitement when Wills and Kate were pictured<br />

skiing at Klosters with Prince Charles in March<br />

2008. Though the couple had visited the<br />

resort numerous times before, many correctly<br />

guessed the presence of Wills’s father meant<br />

that wedding bells were imminent. Slope off and<br />

enjoy the last of the snow in this pretty Swiss<br />

Village, or visit in summertime and explore its<br />

grassy meadows on horseback.<br />

We fl y to Geneva from Gatwick, Luton, Stansted,<br />

Belfast International, Bristol, Birmingham,<br />

Edinburgh, Glasgow, Leeds Bradford, Liverpool,<br />

and Newcastle from £29.99*<br />

GIBRALTAR<br />

Sitting at the entrance to the Mediterranean Sea,<br />

the Rock of Gibraltar proved the perfect launch<br />

pad for Charles and Diana’s honeymoon cruise<br />

on the royal yacht Britannia. The newlyweds’ visit<br />

created hysteria in this fi ercely patriotic British<br />

territory, with almost all of its residents lining<br />

the harbour to bid the couple farewell. Hop over<br />

to Gibraltar and enjoy its colonial charm and<br />

favourable climate while meeting its famous<br />

Barbary apes, the only wild primates in the<br />

whole of Europe.<br />

We fl y to Gibraltar from Gatwick and Liverpool<br />

from £33.99*<br />

* Prices are single including taxes. Correct as of<br />

14 January for travel between 27 March<br />

and 29 October<br />

NEWS | UK<br />

New Routes<br />

for Spring<br />

Bologna from 28 March<br />

Though often overlooked by<br />

visitors in favour of its more<br />

famous neighbours, the small yet<br />

perfectly formed city of Bologna<br />

is well worth a visit. Spend time<br />

exploring its grand opera house<br />

and quirky street arcades, or<br />

make a wish at the Fontana di<br />

Nettuno. And no visit to Bologna<br />

is complete without experiencing<br />

the local cuisine; an abundance<br />

of creamy pasta sauces make<br />

Bologna “Italy’s Cuisine Capital”.<br />

We fl y to Bologna from Gatwick<br />

from £29.99**<br />

Seville from 16 April<br />

Nestled in the heart of Andalucìa,<br />

Seville is famed throughout Spain<br />

for its springtime celebrations.<br />

Semana Santa honours Holy<br />

Week – the last week of Lent<br />

and the most important in the<br />

Catholic calendar. From 18–24<br />

April a series of street processions<br />

take place across the city as<br />

sevillanas commemorate the<br />

fi nal days of Jesus in a sombre<br />

yet beautiful style. Then it’s time<br />

to party, as the Feria de Abril rolls<br />

into town from 3–8 May. A river of<br />

sherry fl ows as fl amenco dancers<br />

and musicians provide round-theclock<br />

entertainment at this world-<br />

famous spring fair. Olé!<br />

We fl y to Seville from Gatwick<br />

from £29.99**<br />

**Prices are single including taxes.<br />

Correct as of 14 January for travel<br />

between 27 March and 29 October,<br />

though some launch dates may vary<br />

MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 191


NEWS | BUSINESS TRAVEL<br />

DON’T CHANGE<br />

THE WAY YOU<br />

DO BUSINESS,<br />

CHANGE YOUR<br />

BUSINESS FLIGHTS<br />

As one of the largest<br />

airlines in Europe,<br />

easyJet offers<br />

inexpensive business<br />

travel on more of the<br />

top 100 European routes<br />

than any other airline.<br />

What’s more, our highfrequency<br />

flights and<br />

our network of 500<br />

routes across 30<br />

countries means you<br />

now have more choice<br />

and flexibility. So next<br />

time book at easyJet.com<br />

or via your business<br />

travel agency for<br />

business flights at<br />

economy prices.<br />

192 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />

Why does flying with us<br />

make business sense?<br />

No weight limit on hand baggage – we won’t charge<br />

you for hand baggage, no matter how much it weighs<br />

We fly you to main airports – save time and expense<br />

by flying direct to the main airport close to the heart<br />

of your destination<br />

Get an earlier flight home for free – we know you’ve<br />

got a busy schedule, so if you get to the airport early<br />

and there’s space available, we’ll get you on an earlier flight<br />

home at no additional cost<br />

Speedy Boarding – for a small fee you can beat the<br />

queues and be among the first to board<br />

NEW Flexible Fare – unlimited free date changes within<br />

a four-week period, plus additional benefits like free<br />

Speedy Boarding. Exclusively available to bookings made via<br />

GDS or Travel Management Company (not yet on easyJet.com)<br />

Find out more good reasons to fly with<br />

us on business at easyJet.com/business


Hitting the slopes?<br />

Save time buy your Ski Hire<br />

and Shuttle Bus Transfer on board<br />

Discovery Skis, Skis Boots<br />

& SnowBoa<br />

SnowBoard Hire<br />

3 Day Adult Hire £54.00 £54. €69.50<br />

6 Day Adult Hire £93.00 £93.0 €120.00<br />

Use on board receipt to redeem ffor<br />

equipment hire<br />

See page 7 in Bistro & Boutique Bo for resorts.<br />

Make it a deal!<br />

Muffin Deal<br />

Any Starbucks hot drink<br />

and a Muffin<br />

£4.00 €4.50<br />

SAVE up to 60p €1.00<br />

Hot Meal Deal<br />

A Chicago Town Pizza. OR a<br />

Croque Monseiur (Ham/Cheese melt),<br />

a can of Beer and a Chocolate<br />

Bar (Mars, Snickers, Milka or Kit Kat)<br />

£7.60 €9.50<br />

Shuttle Bus Transfers<br />

One way Airport to Ski Resort<br />

From €38.00 per passenger<br />

Use on board receipt as travel ticket.<br />

See page 7 in Bistro & Boutique<br />

for meet and greet points<br />

and travel zones.<br />

A Airport Transfers er<br />

Breakfast Deal<br />

Any Starbucks hot drink<br />

and Bacon Baguette<br />

£6.00 €7.50<br />

Sandwich Deal<br />

Sandwich, a soft drink<br />

(Vittel Water, Pepsi, Pepsi Max, 7UP)<br />

and Pringles<br />

£6.00 €7.50<br />

SAVE £1.00p €1.50 SAVE up to 50p 50 cents SAVE 60p €1.00<br />

SEE BISTRO & BOUTIQUE Subject to availability and available on selected aircraft only. Alternative meal deals available on Swiss based aircraft


LAST WORD | GLASGOW<br />

“Nelson Mandela has a Glasgow street named after him and Billy Connolly has the<br />

Freedom of the City, but I have a curry named after me! The Des McLean korma<br />

can be found at the Nakodar Grill in Dennistoun. It’s a real Indian/Scottish place,<br />

with unusual dishes such as haggis pakoras. Owner Johnny Kumar and family make<br />

the best Indian food in Glasgow, which is why you’ll fi nd me here most weekends.”<br />

McLean headlines the opening night of the Magners Glasgow International Comedy Festival on 17 March; glasgowcomedyfestival.com<br />

194 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />

Comedian<br />

Des McLean<br />

on Glasgow<br />

PHOTO © MICHAEL THOMAS JONES


Europcar guarantees easyJet passengers<br />

great car rental deals. For your discounted price,<br />

book at easyJet.com or visit the Europcar desk.

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