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DESERT<br />
ADVENTURES<br />
DISCOVER<br />
JORDAN’S<br />
WILD SIDE<br />
MARCH <strong>2011</strong><br />
*YOUR FREE COPY TO<br />
TAKE AWAY WITH YOU<br />
TRAVELLER<br />
EMPIRE<br />
OF THE SUN<br />
SPAIN’S SOLAR<br />
POWERED FUTURE<br />
GO LARGE IN<br />
GOTHENBURG<br />
A TASTE OF SWEDEN’S<br />
COFFEE CAPITAL
www. giorgioarmanibeauty.com
The new Essence of Joy
COVER ILLUSTRATION © PIETARI POSTI/PEKKAFINLAND.FI | PHOTO © MATTHEW TELLER<br />
MARCH <strong>2011</strong><br />
CONTENTS<br />
SKI ISSUE<br />
Boutique B t & Bistro<br />
January - April <strong>2011</strong><br />
Better<br />
together<br />
Great products to share<br />
SAVE MONEY<br />
WHILE YOU FLY<br />
Browse through<br />
Boutique &<br />
Bistro today and<br />
you’ll be amazed at<br />
the fantastic deals<br />
and off ers you can<br />
buy onboard.<br />
If you are hitting<br />
the slopes, take<br />
advantage of our<br />
ski products range<br />
(pages 4–5), and<br />
save money when<br />
you buy the latest<br />
fashion snood with<br />
the Bloc Ski goggles.<br />
Gulliver, our very<br />
own bear, is ready<br />
for the slopes in<br />
his snowboarding<br />
outfi t. Buy the<br />
bear and then buy<br />
his wardrobe.<br />
Page 12 has the<br />
biggest cosmetic<br />
brands and all the<br />
simple classics.<br />
Save time and hire<br />
your ski equipment<br />
onboard before<br />
hitting the slopes.<br />
This NEW service not<br />
only saves you time<br />
but is also cheaper<br />
than buying in-resort.<br />
The back cover<br />
is packed with our<br />
great money-saving<br />
meal deals from our<br />
Bistro range.<br />
Enjoy saving<br />
onboard today!<br />
48<br />
FEATURES<br />
TRAVELLER<br />
48 Desert<br />
Adventure<br />
Discover Jordan’s<br />
carefully preserved<br />
natural beauty<br />
58 A Bit of<br />
Piste and Quiet<br />
Get away from it all<br />
on a cross-country<br />
skiing trip<br />
64 The Algarve’s<br />
Unseen City<br />
Take the time to<br />
enjoy Faro’s often<br />
overlooked appeal<br />
68 Beyond<br />
the Souks<br />
In search of the<br />
real Marrakech<br />
80 Shooting<br />
Galleries<br />
Zürich’s worldbeating<br />
art<br />
institutions<br />
86 Solar Flair<br />
Solar thermal<br />
energy promises<br />
a bright future<br />
92 Knit Where?<br />
The fashion house<br />
inspired by London,<br />
Paris and Edinburgh<br />
MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 5
MARCH <strong>2011</strong><br />
CONTENTS<br />
THE BUZZ<br />
11 The coming month in pictures<br />
14 Gossip from across the network<br />
17 Amsterdam in bloom<br />
18 The world’s top snow athletes hit Tignes<br />
20 Punk is alive and spitting in Berlin<br />
22 Exploring the Channel Islands<br />
24 A new way to see the Austrian Alps<br />
26 St Patrick’s Day in Belfast<br />
28 Hotel news, reviews and off ers<br />
30 Book ahead and don’t miss out<br />
33 Join the onion eaters for a Catalan calçot<br />
34 Take the ultimate coff ee break in Sweden<br />
39 Open the menu on Italy’s culinary capital<br />
106 Route map and destination guides<br />
LAST WORD<br />
183 Meet the crew<br />
184 Passenger info<br />
186 España<br />
187 Italia<br />
188 Suisse/Schweiz<br />
189 Deutschland<br />
190 France<br />
191 UK<br />
192 Business travel<br />
194 Glaswegian comedian Des McLean<br />
6 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />
22<br />
33<br />
34<br />
EDITORIAL & ART<br />
Editor Steven Watson<br />
Art Director Neil Smith<br />
Deputy Editor Claire Martin<br />
Destinations Editor Amy Dennis<br />
Picture Editor Lisa Jacobs<br />
Executive Creative Director Michael Keating<br />
Fashion Editor Nino Bauti<br />
Sub-Editor Matt Glasby<br />
Destinations Sub-Editor Jo Williams<br />
Production Manager Antonia Ferraro<br />
easyJet Brand Livery Executive<br />
(General Contact for Magazine) Natalie Yeung<br />
Flight Bookings easyJet.com<br />
ADVERTISING<br />
Group Publishing Director Mark Duke<br />
Publisher Phil Castle<br />
Associate Publisher Tara Brady<br />
European Sales Team Sheenagh Baxter-Martin<br />
Betty Encinales, Manuela Festa,<br />
Nishan Gumani, Katja Kunka,<br />
Mahmoud Nedjai, Darren Paternoster<br />
Paris Offi ce (Advertising) IMM<br />
Tel: +33 (0)140 130 030<br />
INK<br />
CEO Jeff rey O’Rourke<br />
Deputy Editorial Director Andrew Humphreys<br />
Chief Operating Offi cer Hugh Godsal<br />
Publishing Director Simon Leslie<br />
easyJet TRAVELLER is published<br />
on behalf of easyJet by Ink<br />
141–143 Shoreditch High Street, London, E1 6JE<br />
Advertising Tel: +44 (0)20 7613 8796,<br />
Fax: +44 (0)20 7613 6985<br />
Editorial Tel: +44 (0)20 7613 6945<br />
Email info@ink-global.com<br />
ink-global.com, goferslogistics.com<br />
© Ink. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved.<br />
No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part<br />
without the prior written permission of the copyright holder.<br />
All prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions<br />
expressed in easyJet Traveller are not necessarily those of easyJet,<br />
and easyJet does not accept responsibility for advertising content.<br />
Any pictures or transparencies supplied are at the owner’s risk.<br />
Any mention of easyJet or use of the easyJet logo by any advertiser<br />
in this publication does not imply endorsement of that company,<br />
or its products or services by easyJet Airline Company.<br />
THIS MAGAZINE<br />
IS PRINTED ON 100%<br />
RECYCLED PAPER<br />
minus<br />
52%<br />
CO 2<br />
TRAVELLER<br />
PHOTOS © AXIOM, TIM WHITE
MARCH <strong>2011</strong><br />
CONTENTS<br />
THE BUZZ<br />
11 The coming month in pictures<br />
14 Gossip from across the network<br />
17 Amsterdam in bloom<br />
18 The world’s top snow athletes hit Tignes<br />
20 Punk is alive and spitting in Berlin<br />
22 Exploring the Channel Islands<br />
24 A new way to see the Austrian Alps<br />
26 St Patrick’s Day in Belfast<br />
28 Hotel news, reviews and off ers<br />
30 Book ahead and don’t miss out<br />
33 Join the onion eaters for a Catalan calçot<br />
34 Take the ultimate coff ee break in Sweden<br />
39 Open the menu on Italy’s culinary capital<br />
106 Route map and destination guides<br />
LAST WORD<br />
183 Meet the crew<br />
184 Passenger info<br />
186 España<br />
187 Italia<br />
188 Suisse/Schweiz<br />
189 Deutschland<br />
190 France<br />
191 UK<br />
192 Business travel<br />
194 Glaswegian comedian Des McLean<br />
6 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />
22<br />
33<br />
34<br />
EDITORIAL & ART<br />
Editor Steven Watson<br />
Art Director Neil Smith<br />
Deputy Editor Claire Martin<br />
Destinations Editor Amy Dennis<br />
Picture Editor Lisa Jacobs<br />
Executive Creative Director Michael Keating<br />
Fashion Editor Nino Bauti<br />
Sub-Editor Matt Glasby<br />
Destinations Sub-Editor Jo Williams<br />
Production Manager Antonia Ferraro<br />
easyJet Brand Livery Executive<br />
(General Contact for Magazine) Natalie Yeung<br />
Flight Bookings easyJet.com<br />
ADVERTISING<br />
Group Publishing Director Mark Duke<br />
Publisher Phil Castle<br />
Associate Publisher Tara Brady<br />
European Sales Team Sheenagh Baxter-Martin<br />
Betty Encinales, Manuela Festa,<br />
Nishan Gumani, Katja Kunka,<br />
Mahmoud Nedjai, Darren Paternoster<br />
Paris Offi ce (Advertising) IMM<br />
Tel: +33 (0)140 130 030<br />
INK<br />
CEO Jeff rey O’Rourke<br />
Deputy Editorial Director Andrew Humphreys<br />
Chief Operating Offi cer Hugh Godsal<br />
Publishing Director Simon Leslie<br />
easyJet TRAVELLER is published<br />
on behalf of easyJet by Ink<br />
141–143 Shoreditch High Street, London, E1 6JE<br />
Advertising Tel: +44 (0)20 7613 8796,<br />
Fax: +44 (0)20 7613 6985<br />
Editorial Tel: +44 (0)20 7613 6945<br />
Email info@ink-global.com<br />
ink-global.com, goferslogistics.com<br />
© Ink. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved.<br />
No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part<br />
without the prior written permission of the copyright holder.<br />
All prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions<br />
expressed in easyJet Traveller are not necessarily those of easyJet,<br />
and easyJet does not accept responsibility for advertising content.<br />
Any pictures or transparencies supplied are at the owner’s risk.<br />
Any mention of easyJet or use of the easyJet logo by any advertiser<br />
in this publication does not imply endorsement of that company,<br />
or its products or services by easyJet Airline Company.<br />
THIS MAGAZINE<br />
IS PRINTED ON 100%<br />
RECYCLED PAPER<br />
minus<br />
52%<br />
CO 2<br />
TRAVELLER<br />
PHOTOS © AXIOM, TIM WHITE
La primavera ya está llegando y es<br />
el momento perfecto para hacer<br />
una escapada. easyJet continua<br />
creciendo y ahora volamos a más de 130<br />
destinos diferentes a través de más de 500<br />
rutas. Madrid abre nuevas rutas a Venecia,<br />
Nápoles y Burdeos y también conectará las<br />
ciudades francesas de Toulouse y Nantes.<br />
easyJet ha estado siempre<br />
comprometida con las necesidades de sus<br />
pasajeros y desde que me uní a la compañía<br />
el año pasado hemos multiplicado nuestros<br />
esfuerzos para mejorar nuestro servicio.<br />
Sobre todo, hemos invertido en mejorar<br />
nuestra puntualidad y hemos visto un gran<br />
avance. Seguimos focalizados en volar a<br />
aeropuertos principales, desde los que no<br />
se pierde más tiempo ni coste que salir<br />
del aeródromo. De hecho, volamos a más<br />
aeropuertos principales en las rutas más<br />
importantes que cualquier otra compañía,<br />
y todo ello lo hacemos con una tripulación<br />
amable y unos precios económicos.<br />
Disfruta de tu vuelo y esperamos volver a<br />
verte pronto.<br />
La primavera sta arrivando ed<br />
è perfetta per una pausa last<br />
minute. Il network di easyJet sta<br />
continuando a espandersi e ora copre più<br />
di 130 destinazioni con più di 500 rotte.<br />
Madrid avrà nuovi voli per Venezia, Napoli<br />
e Bordeaux, e a breve sarà disponibile il<br />
collegamento tra Tolosa e Nantes.<br />
easyJet si è sempre impegnata nei<br />
confronti dei suoi passeggeri e, da quando<br />
sono entrata a far parte della Compagnia lo<br />
scorso anno, abbiamo raddoppiato gli sforzi<br />
per migliorare il nostro servizio. Abbiamo<br />
soprattutto investito nella puntualità e<br />
stiamo assistendo a dei reali progressi.<br />
Il nostro obiettivo rimane quello di farvi<br />
volare nei principali aeroporti, che non<br />
hanno maggiori tempi di percorrenza o<br />
costi più elevati per raggiungere il centro<br />
città, rispetto a quelli più lontani. Infatti<br />
voliamo da più aeroporti principali e sulle<br />
rotte più richieste rispetto a qualsiasi altra<br />
compagnia, e lo facciamo con uno staff<br />
cordiale e tariff e davvero competitive.<br />
Vi auguriamo un buon volo e speriamo di<br />
rivedervi presto a bordo dei nostri aerei.<br />
Le printemps approche, et c’est<br />
le moment idéal pour s’off rir un<br />
séjour de dernière minute. Et<br />
pour vous proposer toujours plus de choix,<br />
nous continuons d’étendre notre réseau,<br />
dorénavant fort de 130 destinations et<br />
500 lignes. Avec notamment plusieurs<br />
ouvertures depuis Madrid, que ce soit vers<br />
GREETINGS | ENJOY THE FLIGHT<br />
Welcome/Bienvenido/Bienvenue/Benvenuto/Willkommen<br />
SPRING IS NOW approaching and with<br />
winter behind us it’s the perfect time to<br />
consider a last-minute break. You could<br />
explore an exciting city destination or<br />
experience the sights and sensations<br />
of somewhere totally new. easyJet’s<br />
European fl ight network is continuing<br />
to expand and we now fl y to over 130<br />
diff erent destinations via more than 500<br />
routes. This month we have added some<br />
completely new destinations; Bologna in<br />
Italy and Amman in Jordan, both accessible<br />
from Gatwick later this month. Amman<br />
is an especially exciting new destination,<br />
steeped in rich history and home to worldfamous<br />
sights like Petra and the Dead<br />
Sea. Madrid will have new routes fl ying to<br />
Venice, Naples and Bordeaux and we will<br />
also be connecting the two French cities of<br />
Toulouse and Nantes.<br />
easyJet has always been committed to<br />
its customers, and since I joined last year<br />
we have redoubled our eff orts to improve<br />
the way we serve you. We are constantly<br />
looking at ways to make your travel<br />
experience easier, and we are committed<br />
to giving you open, relevant information via<br />
text, email and at the airport. During the<br />
severe weather we sent 200,000 texts to<br />
allow our passengers to plan their travel<br />
and help as much as we could. Above all we<br />
have invested in improving our punctuality<br />
and we are seeing real progress. We remain<br />
focused on fl ying you to main city airports,<br />
which don’t have the longer travel times<br />
or higher costs of more out-of-the-way<br />
airfi elds. In fact, we fl y between more main<br />
airports on popular routes than any other<br />
carrier, and we do so with friendly crew and<br />
great value fares.<br />
We hope you enjoy the fl ight and we look<br />
forward to fl ying you again soon.<br />
Venise, Naples ou Bordeaux, et la nouvelle<br />
liaison entre Toulouse et Nantes.<br />
Depuis que j’ai pris la direction d’easyJet<br />
l’année dernière, nous avons redoublé nos<br />
eff orts pour améliorer la qualité de notre<br />
service. Nous avons particulièrement<br />
investi sur la ponctualité, et nous notons<br />
une réelle amélioration. Comme toujours,<br />
notre objectif reste de vous emmener vers<br />
les aéroports principaux, accessibles bien<br />
plus rapidement et à moindre coût que les<br />
aérodromes éloignés. La preuve : easyJet<br />
est la compagnie aérienne qui opère le plus<br />
de vols entre les aéroports principaux et sur<br />
les lignes les plus prisées. Et toujours à des<br />
prix extrêmement compétitifs.<br />
Je vous souhaite un bon vol, en espérant<br />
vous accueillir de nouveau à bord très<br />
prochainement.<br />
Der Frühling steht vor der Tür, die<br />
ideale Gelegenheit für einen Last-<br />
Minute-Trip! easyJets europäisches<br />
Streckennetz expandiert weiter und wir<br />
fl iegen jetzt über 130 unterschiedliche Ziele<br />
auf mehr als 500 Strecken an. Von Madrid<br />
wird es neue Strecken nach Venedig, Neapel<br />
und Bordeaux geben, und wir werden die<br />
beiden französischen Städte Toulouse und<br />
Nantes miteinander verbinden.<br />
easyJet hat sich immer für seine<br />
Kunden engagiert, und seit ich letztes<br />
Jahr dazu gekommen bin, haben<br />
wir unsere Bemühungen nochmals<br />
verdoppelt, um unseren Service für Sie zu<br />
verbessern. Vor allem haben wir uns für<br />
die Verbesserung unserer Pünktlichkeit<br />
eingesetzt und wir sehen einen echten<br />
Fortschritt. Wir halten daran fest städtische<br />
Hauptfl ughäfen anzufl iegen, welche nicht<br />
die längeren Reisezeiten oder höheren<br />
Kosten abgelegener Flugfelder mit sich<br />
bringen. Vielmehr fl iegen wir zwischen<br />
mehr Hauptfl ughäfen auf mehr beliebten<br />
Flugstrecken als jede andere Fluglinie<br />
und das tun wir mit einer freundlichen<br />
Besatzung und günstigen Preisen.<br />
Wir hoff en, Sie genießen den Flug, und<br />
wir freuen uns, Sie bald wieder zu fl iegen!<br />
Carolyn McCall OBE<br />
easyJet Chief Executive<br />
If you have any thoughts or suggestions,<br />
email us at carolyn@easyJet.com<br />
For any queries or further information,<br />
visit easyJet.com<br />
Turn to pages 183–192 for the<br />
latest easyJet news.<br />
MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 9
THE BUZZ | VIEWFINDER<br />
10 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11
PHOTO © CORBIS<br />
THE BUZZ | VIEWFINDER<br />
31<br />
INSPIRING<br />
IDEAS<br />
FOR YOUR<br />
DIARY<br />
THE<br />
BUZZ<br />
Las Fallas<br />
VALENCIA<br />
Firecrackers at dawn mark the fi rst<br />
day of Las Fallas, Valencia’s epic fi re<br />
festival (15–19 March). Giant papiermâché<br />
models of public fi gures are<br />
stuff ed with fi reworks and blown up, as<br />
the city’s neighbourhoods compete to<br />
put on the most impressive pyrotechnic<br />
displays. fallasfromvalencia.com<br />
MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 11
THE BUZZ | VIEWFINDER<br />
Madeira<br />
Flower Festival<br />
MADEIRA<br />
For an island known for its breathtaking<br />
natural beauty, it’s not surprising that one<br />
of the best events in the local calendar<br />
celebrates the environment. The Flower<br />
Festival (5–8 May) sees the whole of<br />
Funchal transformed into a patchwork<br />
quilt of gorgeous fl ora and fauna.<br />
madeiratourism.org<br />
12 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />
Feria de Abril<br />
La Pasqua<br />
ROME<br />
Celebrations don’t come much bigger than Easter<br />
(la Pasqua) in Rome. On Good Friday (22 April) the<br />
Colosseum is lit with crosses of burning torches.<br />
Holy Saturday (23 April) involves a beautiful<br />
candlelit vigil in St Peter’s Basilica, and Easter<br />
Sunday (24 April) sees thousands crowd St Peter’s<br />
Square for a joyous mass – all overseen by the<br />
Pope. How’s that for grand? rome.info<br />
SEVILLE<br />
Seville’s April Fair (3–8 May), an extravagant weeklong<br />
fi esta in southern Spain, actually started off as<br />
CORBIS<br />
a humble agricultural event. Now visitors to the city<br />
©<br />
can enjoy fl amenco dancing, brightly lit fairgrounds<br />
and non-stop music. turismo.sevilla.org PHOTOS
Does the taxman<br />
have a cheque with<br />
your name on it?<br />
We can help<br />
you collect it.<br />
0121 228 7178<br />
admin@hedge-taxmitigation.co.uk<br />
www.hedge-taxmitigation.co.uk<br />
Do you let your UK or European<br />
holiday home, or do you own<br />
commercial property in the UK?<br />
If so, did you know you could reclaim some of the purchase price<br />
back from the taxman and reduce your future tax bills?<br />
HM Revenue and Customs have allowed<br />
Capital Allowances on property since<br />
1878. In December 2008 the legislation<br />
was redefi ned, and it is by using this<br />
updated legislation that we could help<br />
you reduce your tax bill or even claim<br />
money back, by claiming your rightful<br />
entitlement to tax allowances.<br />
The legislation may be about to change<br />
however so you need to act quickly<br />
before it’s too late.<br />
You’ll be wondering why you<br />
haven’t read about this in the press.<br />
Unsurprisingly, HMRC didn’t spend any<br />
money on advertising this to ensure<br />
you made your claim.<br />
You’ll also be wondering why your<br />
accountant hasn’t told you about it.<br />
This is because it is a very specialised<br />
area, spanning surveying and<br />
accountancy, and the vast majority of<br />
accountants do not carry out this work.<br />
If you pay income tax on income from<br />
any source, whether on a PAYE or<br />
self-assessment basis, and want to<br />
reclaim some or all of the tax you<br />
have paid for the last two years or<br />
reduce your future tax liability, then<br />
we could help.<br />
Call or email for more information<br />
and a no obligation summary<br />
application form.<br />
Tel: 0121 228 7178<br />
Email: admin@hedge-taxmitigation.co.uk<br />
ACT NOW<br />
BEFORE THE<br />
LEGISLATION<br />
CHANGES!<br />
Here’s a quick summary of the basics:<br />
Hedge Tax Mitigation will send<br />
you the reports for your existing<br />
accountant to make the claim<br />
to HMRC.<br />
You could claim 20 – 25% of the<br />
purchase price as a tax allowance.<br />
On a £200k property that means<br />
you could offset £40k against your<br />
income to reduce your tax bill! This<br />
could mean a refund of tax you have<br />
paid or cut your future tax bills.<br />
We will work with you to review the<br />
tax you have paid or will need to pay,<br />
and identify the correct properties to<br />
claim against, so that you do not pay<br />
us more than is necessary to achieve<br />
the savings you need.<br />
If you let your furnished holiday<br />
home, or own commercial property,<br />
then there could be a cheque<br />
with your name on it waiting to<br />
be collected.<br />
Act now to get your claim in to<br />
HMRC before the legislation<br />
changes.<br />
Enquiries welcome from introducers.
THE BUZZ | WORD OF MOUTH<br />
A Dog’s Life Up in Smoke<br />
We all know that dogs are man’s best<br />
friend, but would you ditch your mates<br />
to take your pooch to the pictures?<br />
That’s what happened at Stockholm’s<br />
Pet Fair in January. The event kicked off<br />
with a screening of Marmaduke, a fi lm<br />
about a Great Dane, playing to a cinema<br />
packed with 200 dogs and their owners.<br />
The screening came as canine experts<br />
announced that they now believe dogs<br />
can see in colour, rather than just black<br />
and white as was previously thought. The<br />
jury is still out on whether they can fully<br />
appreciate Hollywood’s 3D eff ects.<br />
14 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />
Spain has fi nally joined the rest of Western<br />
Europe and banned smoking in all its public<br />
spaces. Smoking is now forbidden in all<br />
bars and restaurants, on live broadcast<br />
TV, in airports and near hospitals or<br />
school playgrounds. But bar owners<br />
have complained that the tough laws will<br />
devastate their businesses, and some have<br />
started up their own protest groups. One<br />
restaurant in the northern city of Pontevedra<br />
has parked a van outside its premises<br />
complete with a table, chairs and heater,<br />
and enough room for six to eat, drink,<br />
and puff away as much as they please.<br />
ITALY<br />
Bin the Bags<br />
STOCKHOLM ASTURIAS LONDON<br />
Eco warriors have been railing against<br />
Europe’s dependency on plastic bags<br />
for ages –the UN Environment<br />
Programme estimates that they<br />
account for the deaths of 100,000<br />
marine mammals every year. In January<br />
Italy took decisive action, becoming the<br />
fi rst country to completely ban shops<br />
and supermarkets from giving out<br />
polythene bags. Once one of the largest<br />
consumers of plastic bags (the country<br />
used about a fi fth of all the plastic bags<br />
in Europe – the equivalent of 300 a year<br />
per person), Italy is expected to save<br />
180,000 tonnes of C02 emissions from<br />
this one decision alone.<br />
Charity Run<br />
One London charity has come up with<br />
a novel way to motivate runners by making<br />
them feel good on the inside as well as the<br />
outside. The Good Gym is based in East<br />
London and pairs a runner with someone<br />
less mobile in their area. Good Gym<br />
members jog to their partner’s house, run<br />
errands such as delivering groceries or<br />
tidying the garden, have a chat, and then<br />
get jogging again. Runners have to commit<br />
to one good deed a week – lots of people<br />
already run races to raise money for charity,<br />
but Good Gym off ers a much more handson<br />
way to help. thegoodgym.org
PHOTOS © PA PHOTOS, GETTY<br />
PARIS<br />
A Piece of Art<br />
The Art Exchange, the<br />
world’s fi rst art stock<br />
exchange, has been set up<br />
by A&F Markets in Paris<br />
with the aim of opening this<br />
elitist world up to everyone.<br />
The idea is that even if you<br />
don’t have the cash to buy<br />
an original canvas, you can<br />
still own a piece of an iconic<br />
painting. “Clients will be<br />
able to see the selection of<br />
BUCHAREST<br />
Plenty of us curse<br />
the taxman for taking<br />
away a chunk of our<br />
hard-earned cash each<br />
month, but government<br />
offi cials in Romania<br />
are feeling uneasy<br />
about a new law. The<br />
artworks out there, as well<br />
as the price and volume of<br />
the shares available,” says<br />
Pierre Naquin, founder of<br />
A&F Markets. The market<br />
opened with Francesco<br />
Vezzoli’s The Premiere of<br />
a Play That Will Never Run<br />
(pictured above), valued<br />
at €135,000 with shares<br />
starting at €10 each.<br />
aexchange.net<br />
Toil and Trouble<br />
legislation means that<br />
witches, astrologers<br />
and fortune tellers are<br />
now recognised as<br />
self-employed workers,<br />
and have to hand over<br />
16% of their income<br />
to the government.<br />
The bill was almost<br />
passed last year, but<br />
senators worried about<br />
vexing the country’s<br />
psychic community<br />
put it on hold. Romania<br />
has a long history of<br />
superstition – President<br />
Traian B ă sescu often<br />
wears purple when he<br />
needs important votes<br />
to go his way, because<br />
he believes that the<br />
colour has the power<br />
to ward off evil spirits.<br />
HOTEL COURCHENEIGE<br />
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ALL-INCLUSIVE WEEKS FROM € 1,850<br />
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Tel: +33 4 79 08 02 59 Fax: +33 4 79 08 11 79<br />
info@courcheneige.com www.courcheneige.com
WORDS AMY BAKER<br />
Blooming Lovely<br />
AMSTERDAM<br />
Slowly but surely, spring is<br />
shaking off winter’s grey<br />
skies and early morning<br />
frost, and nowhere is<br />
the change of season<br />
more spectacular than<br />
Keukenhof in Lisse. Just<br />
35km from Amsterdam,<br />
the 32-hectare garden is<br />
packed with some seven<br />
million fl owers from March<br />
until May each year, and on<br />
this grassy stage there’s<br />
one clear star of the show:<br />
the tulip. In fact, tulips<br />
make up more than half<br />
of the fl owers on display,<br />
with 100 diff erent varieties<br />
lovingly planted in intricate<br />
patterns and hundreds of<br />
diff erent shades. It’s<br />
a unique spectacle that<br />
has attracted more than<br />
44 million visitors since<br />
it opened in 1949.<br />
Each year Keukenhof<br />
celebrates a diff erent<br />
theme, and this year<br />
the chosen topic is<br />
Germany, Land of Poets<br />
and Philosophers. The<br />
centrepiece will be<br />
a glorious, 23m-long<br />
fl ower mosaic of Berlin’s<br />
Brandenburg Gate, created<br />
with 100,000 bulbs. The<br />
mosaic was planted in<br />
early October and will<br />
reveal itself when the<br />
park opens at the end<br />
of this month.<br />
Keukenhof is<br />
consistently voted one<br />
of the top attractions in<br />
Europe, and it’s as devoted<br />
to its fl owers as ever. Yes,<br />
there are tulip-shaped<br />
lollipops and other assorted<br />
kitsch, but if you climb the<br />
windmill at the centre of the<br />
garden you’ll be genuinely<br />
taken aback by the layers<br />
of sensational colours. If<br />
you get the chance, time<br />
your trip for 16 April when<br />
the famous Flower Parade<br />
winds a 40km route north<br />
from Noordwijk to Haarlem,<br />
passing through Keukenhof<br />
in the afternoon.<br />
From 24 March–20 May;<br />
keukenhof.nl<br />
THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />
CALENDAR<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
3–13 MAR<br />
Geneva International<br />
Motor Show<br />
GENEVA<br />
This is the most popular car show<br />
in Europe, with more than 700,000<br />
visitors fl ooding through the doors of<br />
the Geneva-Palexpo each year. Join<br />
them to have a sneak peek at the<br />
motoring world’s latest models and<br />
accessories. salon-auto.ch/en<br />
3–9 MAR<br />
Cologne Carnival<br />
COLOGNE<br />
Each March the residents of Cologne<br />
put on their craziest costumes and<br />
welcome visitors to party at one of<br />
Europe’s biggest street festivals. The<br />
city buzzes with parades and dancing<br />
for a whole week, all lubricated with<br />
strong local beer. koelnerkarneval1.de<br />
7–21 MAR<br />
Le Printemps<br />
des Poètes<br />
PARIS<br />
The French capital welcomes in the new<br />
season with this annual celebration<br />
of poetry. Schools, cafés, museums<br />
and other venues throughout the city<br />
play host to debates, exhibitions and<br />
competitions dedicated to all things<br />
poetic. printempsdespoetes.com<br />
MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 17
THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />
X Hits the Spot<br />
GENEVA<br />
After a hugely successful debut last<br />
year, the Winter X Games Europe returns<br />
to Tignes from 16–18 March. Ski and<br />
snowboarding contests don’t get much<br />
bigger than this multimillion-dollar<br />
ESPN TV spectacular, and the three-day<br />
festival will bring the world’s best snow<br />
athletes to the French Alps. Battling it<br />
out on custom-built courses in front<br />
of more than 60,000 spectators (plus<br />
a TV audience spanning 160 countries),<br />
the competitors will be going all out to<br />
make their mark.<br />
“When I fi rst started snowboarding,<br />
it was all about the X Games,” explains<br />
British snowboarder and three-time<br />
Winter X Games gold medallist Jenny<br />
Jones. “This was the competition<br />
that people aspired to, and to get<br />
a medal was something I had wanted<br />
to achieve for years.”<br />
Jones is just one of the 150 specially<br />
selected riders who will be competing<br />
on the superpipe (a halfpipe that’s<br />
18 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />
240m long, 19m wide and 7m high)<br />
and slopestyle course (an 800m-long<br />
piste featuring a combination of rails<br />
and giant kickers) built in a spectatorfriendly<br />
location right in the heart of Val<br />
Claret. “The atmosphere is brilliant as<br />
loads of people come out to support,”<br />
she continues. “The height some of the<br />
skiers get in the superpipe is awesome<br />
and the double-cork tricks in the<br />
slopestyle are incredible to watch.”<br />
But the competition is just a small<br />
part of the many activities on off er to<br />
visitors. The X Fest Village at the base<br />
of the courses will play host to a wide<br />
variety of free entertainment, including<br />
fi lm screenings, autograph-signing<br />
sessions, skateboard displays, bars, live<br />
music and after-show parties all hosted<br />
by the likes of Quiksilver, Oakley and<br />
Sony Ericsson. And, of course, freestyle<br />
snowmobiling displays in the evenings<br />
– your chance to experience the unlikely<br />
sight of a snowmobile doing a back fl ip.<br />
winterxgameseurope.com Ed Andrews<br />
CALENDAR<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
10–12 MAR<br />
Milan Clown Festival<br />
MILAN<br />
It might be better known as one of<br />
Europe’s most stylish cities, but this<br />
month Milan is the place to be if you want<br />
to clown around. With free performances<br />
in churches, theatres and on street<br />
corners, not to mention a chapiteau<br />
(“big top”), visitors can expect belly<br />
laughs aplenty. milanoclownfestival.tk<br />
18–27 MAR<br />
MaerzMusik<br />
BERLIN<br />
This festival of contemporary music is<br />
renowned for its eclectic, experimental<br />
approach. This year the theme is<br />
sound and image, with a wide range<br />
of fi lms, light shows and cutting-edge<br />
visuals accompanying the tunes.<br />
berlinerfestspiele.de<br />
26 MAR<br />
Oxford & Cambridge<br />
Boat Race<br />
LONDON<br />
Starting life in 1829 as a simple bet<br />
between school friends, the boat race<br />
is now an English sporting institution.<br />
Thousands line the banks of the Thames<br />
to catch a glimpse of the rowers – get<br />
there early and stake out a spot on<br />
Putney Bridge. theboatrace.org<br />
PHOTOS © STEF CANDE/SHAZAMM/ESPN IMAGES, ALAMY | WORDS AMY BAKER
THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />
Punk & Politics<br />
BERLIN<br />
If you visited Berlin’s<br />
Alexanderplatz last year,<br />
you may well have seen<br />
the photo exhibition that<br />
stood in the square to<br />
mark 20 years since the<br />
fall of the Wall. One of<br />
its most striking images<br />
showed a Volkspolizei<br />
offi cer questioning a surly<br />
teenager with a mohawk<br />
and ripped jeans, a shot<br />
made all the more poignant<br />
by the fact that it was taken<br />
in exactly the same spot in<br />
1980, when punk rock was<br />
at its emphatic peak.<br />
The thrashing riff s,<br />
outrageous hairstyles and<br />
shocking piercings that<br />
go hand-in-hand with the<br />
punk scene were frowned<br />
upon in the UK, the US<br />
and practically everywhere<br />
else they popped up. But<br />
punks in East Germany<br />
risked much more than<br />
disapproval. The Stasi<br />
(State Security) feared<br />
that punk posed a threat<br />
to the GDR (German<br />
Democratic Republic),<br />
persecuting its proponents<br />
and denouncing them as<br />
enemies of the state. Yet the<br />
Stasi’s anger only spurred<br />
20 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />
on the renegades,<br />
who found that it<br />
was an exciting time<br />
to rebel for those<br />
who had the guts.<br />
Punk & Disorderly,<br />
Berlin’s annual punk<br />
festival, is a celebration<br />
of the ethos that so<br />
profoundly changed the<br />
city – revolution dovetailed<br />
with rock 30 years ago, and<br />
the results moulded the<br />
Berlin we know today. Marc<br />
Nickel, a passionate punk<br />
since the movement fi rst<br />
hit Germany, started the<br />
event some 11 years ago.<br />
“Me and my friends were all<br />
growing up in West Berlin<br />
back in the late 1970s, but<br />
we always stayed in touch<br />
with people behind the Iron<br />
Curtain through the punk<br />
scene,” he says. “In the East,<br />
punks expressed a new<br />
youthful rebellion, but it was<br />
very political too – the Stasi<br />
spied on East German punk<br />
bands and fans.”<br />
Nickel believes that Punk<br />
& Disorderly is more than<br />
just a way to pay respects<br />
to a faded musical era, it’s<br />
a chance to inspire the next<br />
generation of fans. “We<br />
started the festival in the<br />
days when punk was falling<br />
out of fashion. We felt we<br />
wanted to do this festival,<br />
as fans, to keep the scene<br />
alive. We now get 6,000<br />
people in each night – it’s<br />
grown massively.”<br />
This year’s event, held<br />
at the Astra Kulturhaus<br />
in Kreuzberg, will boast<br />
screeching sets by<br />
bands from all over the<br />
world. British hardcore<br />
act Deadline will appear<br />
alongside American retropunks<br />
The Traditionals and<br />
the home-grown talents of<br />
Bad Co. Project.<br />
Unsurprisingly, Nickel<br />
can’t wait. “What makes<br />
it special is that people<br />
from all over the world<br />
get together. Berlin has<br />
this massive alternative<br />
subculture, and a legendary<br />
underground nightlife, so<br />
it’s a perfect place for<br />
Punk & Disorderly.”<br />
1–3 April, punk-disorderly.de<br />
Chris Beanland<br />
CALENDAR<br />
NEXT MONTH<br />
2–9 APR<br />
Princess Sofi a<br />
Yachting Regatta<br />
MAJORCA<br />
Each year more than 600 boats and<br />
1,000 sailors gather in the Balearic<br />
Islands to compete in one of Spain’s<br />
biggest yachting regattas. The speed,<br />
skill and sheer number of boats<br />
guarantees an outstanding spectator<br />
event. trofeoprincesasofi a.org<br />
2–17 APR<br />
Istanbul International<br />
Film Festival<br />
ISTANBUL<br />
This annual fi lm festival showcases<br />
Turkey’s burgeoning movie talent.<br />
Some 235 fi lms will be screened,<br />
selected from a mix of fi rst-time<br />
showings, international work and<br />
cinema classics. iksv.org<br />
4–9 APR<br />
Snowbombing Festival<br />
INNSBRUCK<br />
Back for its 12th riotous year, the<br />
Snowbombing Festival has a reputation<br />
for being the biggest party on the<br />
slopes. This year the musical line-up<br />
includes The Prodigy, Fatboy Slim<br />
and drum’n’bass/rock crossover act<br />
Pendulum. Prepare to ski all day and<br />
dance all night. snowbombing.com<br />
PHOTOS © ALAMY, GETTY | WORDS AMY BAKER
THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />
Walk<br />
This Way<br />
Pack your walking boots<br />
for a sensational new tour<br />
of the Channel Islands<br />
JERSEY<br />
The Channel Islands are one of Britain’s<br />
most picturesque outposts. A place of<br />
romantic sunsets, idyllic country lanes<br />
and dramatic seascapes, it’s easy to see<br />
why visitors have been coming here for<br />
years to soak up the unique Anglo-French<br />
atmosphere. Now it’s even easier to discover<br />
the islands’ most attractive corners, thanks<br />
to the Channel Islands Way (CIW).<br />
A 185km route that circumnavigates<br />
Jersey, Guernsey, Alderney, Herm and Sark,<br />
off ering some breathtaking views along the<br />
way, the CIW was the brainchild of Jersey<br />
man and Blue Badge walking guide Arthur<br />
Lamy (arthurthebluebadgeguide.com), who<br />
spent fi ve years stringing it together.<br />
“My self-imposed mission was to get<br />
as many people as possible exploring the<br />
fabulous and diverse coastline that the<br />
22 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />
Channel Islands enjoy,” enthuses Lamy.<br />
“And without any false diplomacy, I have to<br />
say that the whole route is great. The islands<br />
are broadly similar, but each has its own<br />
charm, its own micro-culture, and its own<br />
fl ora and fauna as well.” After witnessing<br />
the vast golden sands of St Ouen’s Bay on<br />
Jersey and the jade-green waters of Dixcart<br />
Bay on Sark – both so unlike any other<br />
Clockwise from here,<br />
Jersey’s Portelet<br />
Bay, Gorey Harbour,<br />
an intrepid hiker<br />
British scenery that it’s easy to forget you’re<br />
still in the UK – I’m inclined to agree.<br />
There are already a number of serious<br />
walkers vying to be the fi rst to complete the<br />
route when it opens this spring. To do so<br />
will require several ferry journeys and up to<br />
two weeks, but Lamy believes the majority<br />
of walkers won’t undertake the entire route<br />
– the CIW is long, but it’s really not about<br />
racking up the miles.<br />
Designed to be accessible to all types of<br />
walker, the route is divided into sections<br />
of approximately 3km–6.5km, each with<br />
a bus stop, car park, pub or café at either<br />
end. It might be a far cry from Britain’s<br />
mighty hikes such as the Pennine Way and<br />
Off a’s Dyke Path, but the CIW promises<br />
to be an accessible, beautiful trek that<br />
visitors will be happy to try.<br />
Alf Alderson
PHOTOS © 4CORNERS<br />
BLISTER PACK<br />
STRETCH YOUR LEGS WITH<br />
A WALK ON ONE OF THESE<br />
TRAILS, NEW FOR <strong>2011</strong><br />
➳ South Loch Ness Trail<br />
INVERNESS<br />
What better way to<br />
spot Nessie than on the<br />
48km South Loch Ness<br />
Trail, which opens this<br />
spring? The walking isn’t<br />
too demanding, giving<br />
you all the more time<br />
to keep an eye on the<br />
water for mysterious<br />
movements, and to<br />
enjoy the magnifi cent<br />
SPLIT<br />
This new 21km route is<br />
hardly long distance, but<br />
it will still provide you with<br />
a good day’s walk through<br />
the heart of the beautiful<br />
Croatian National Park<br />
Plitvice Lakes, which has<br />
been included on the<br />
UNESCO list of World<br />
Heritage Sites since 1979.<br />
Although better known<br />
➳ Great Stones Way<br />
BOURNEMOUTH<br />
It seems strange that it’s<br />
taken until <strong>2011</strong> for the<br />
powers that be to create<br />
a walking trail between the<br />
World Heritage Sites of<br />
Stonehenge and Avebury.<br />
The 60km-long Great<br />
Stones Way opens later this<br />
month, and passes through<br />
the bucolic landscapes<br />
of the Wiltshire Downs, the<br />
Highland scenery along<br />
the way. The trail is also<br />
open to horse riders and<br />
mountain bikers, and it’s<br />
hoped that eventually it<br />
can be extended to link up<br />
with the Great Glen Way<br />
on the north side of the<br />
loch to create a complete<br />
circumnavigation of<br />
Loch Ness.<br />
visitlochness.com<br />
➳ Corkova Uvala Trail<br />
for its 16 spectacular<br />
waterfalls and beautiful<br />
lakes, the region also has<br />
some pristine forests,<br />
which the Corkova Uvala<br />
Trail passes through.<br />
The 9km-long Plitvice Trail<br />
is a well-signed option<br />
through the forest that<br />
off ers fantastic views<br />
without too much exertion.<br />
np-plitvicka-jezera.hr/en<br />
Vale of Pewsey, Salisbury<br />
Plain and the Avon Valley,<br />
providing a combination<br />
of incredible vistas and<br />
world-famous prehistoric<br />
archaeology. Fit walkers<br />
should be able to manage<br />
it in a day, but for a gentler<br />
alternative, try the 21km<br />
ramble from Casterley<br />
Camp to Stonehenge.<br />
visitwiltshire.co.uk
THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />
On Top<br />
of the<br />
World<br />
SALZBURG<br />
Standing more than<br />
3,000m above Lake Zell<br />
and Hohe Tauern National<br />
Park is the white-tipped<br />
peak of Kitzsteinhorn,<br />
a mountain and glacier that<br />
off ers deep powder snow<br />
all year round. With 138km<br />
of ski runs and 53 cable<br />
cars and lifts, Kitzsteinhorn<br />
has been a favourite with<br />
skiers since Austria’s fi rst<br />
glacier lift started running<br />
here in 1966. But now a new<br />
development is opening it<br />
up to a fresh audience.<br />
“The Austrian Alps<br />
are a miracle of nature,”<br />
says Dr Norbert Winding,<br />
explaining why he became<br />
involved in PeakWorld<br />
3000, a project that<br />
showcases the area’s<br />
incredible beauty. As the<br />
director of Salzburg's<br />
Natural History Museum,<br />
Winding is accustomed<br />
to bringing nature to the<br />
people, but with this new<br />
project he aims to take<br />
the people to nature.<br />
24 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />
Perched at the<br />
top of Kitzsteinhorn,<br />
PeakWorld 3000<br />
comprises a cinema,<br />
gallery and restaurant.<br />
But you won’t fi nd<br />
the latest Hollywood<br />
blockbusters showing up<br />
here – like everything else<br />
at PeakWorld 3000, the<br />
cinema is dedicated to<br />
Zell Am See’s landscape.<br />
The inaugural screening is<br />
Kitzsteinhorn: The Nature,<br />
a short fi lm that tells the<br />
story of the mountains in<br />
the surrounding area.<br />
The 360m-long<br />
gallery will open in June,<br />
housing fi ve exhibitions<br />
and including an outdoor<br />
viewing platform that<br />
provides visitors with the<br />
sort of breath-taking vistas<br />
that are usually only seen<br />
by dedicated Alpinists and<br />
expert climbers.<br />
It’s this incredible<br />
beauty (and the year-round<br />
snow) that prompted the<br />
women’s US ski team to<br />
name Zell Am See-Kaprun<br />
their European training<br />
base last season. Olympic<br />
shredders such as Lindsey<br />
Vonn and Julia Mancuso<br />
kicked back at the resort<br />
in between events, and<br />
Vonn declared it her “home<br />
away from home”. Winding<br />
and his colleagues hope<br />
that PeakWorld 3000<br />
can convince many more<br />
visitors to do the same.<br />
PeakWorld 3000’s viewing<br />
platform and gallery will<br />
open this summer<br />
Shelley Jones<br />
CALENDAR<br />
NEXT MONTH<br />
9 APR<br />
Grand National<br />
LIVERPOOL<br />
The world-famous race at Aintree brings<br />
Britain to a standstill every year, and<br />
makes for a thrilling day out. But the<br />
race is only half the fun – afterwards,<br />
the party takes over Liverpool’s city<br />
centre, as winners celebrate and<br />
losers commiserate in the pubs<br />
and bars. aintree.co.uk<br />
25 APR<br />
Festa di San Marco<br />
VENICE<br />
St Mark is Venice’s patron saint, and the<br />
public holiday held in his honour on<br />
25 April features a full programme of<br />
festivities. This is the day when men<br />
present their love with a single red rose,<br />
and in the evening gondolas race in<br />
St Mark’s Basin. veneziasi.it<br />
28 APR–2 MAY<br />
Cathedral Quarter<br />
Arts Festival<br />
BELFAST<br />
Belfast’s beautiful cathedral quarter<br />
plays host to this alternative festival<br />
of comedy, live music, theatre and<br />
art. Visitors are encouraged to<br />
participate in unusual workshops,<br />
ranging from African drumming<br />
to fi lm-making. cqaf.com<br />
PHOTOS © ALAMY | WORDS AMY BAKER
henry-jullien.com<br />
Collection EQUINOXE - Tél. : 0825 09 69 00 - Photos : Bruno FABBRIS
THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />
Belfast<br />
Craics Up<br />
<br />
26 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />
<br />
<br />
If Dublin is the traditional home<br />
of St Patrick’s Day, Belfast is its<br />
unruly northern neighbour. With<br />
a world-class music scene and more<br />
quality pubs than you could hope<br />
to crawl around in a week,<br />
it’s the perfect place to join the<br />
celebrations this month…<br />
1<br />
<br />
2<br />
3<br />
<br />
<br />
4<br />
<br />
<br />
5<br />
6<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
7
ILLUSTRATION © MARC ASPINALL | WORDS PIPER TERRETT<br />
1<br />
Europa Hotel<br />
To start your St Patrick’s Day in style,<br />
stop by the Europa. It has long been<br />
the place in Belfast to rub shoulders<br />
with the great and the good – Bill and<br />
Hillary Clinton famously stayed here.<br />
With fi ne dining and a piano bar, it’s<br />
also a great way to fi nish the evening,<br />
well away from the crowds.<br />
Great Victoria Street,<br />
tel: +44 (0)28 9027 1066<br />
2<br />
The Crown<br />
Liquor Saloon<br />
Belfast is full of historic pubs but The<br />
Crown is one of its greatest. Owned<br />
by the National Trust, it was one of the<br />
UK’s most spectacular gin palaces<br />
and remains an ideal place to toast St<br />
Patrick. Restored to its former glory, it<br />
hosts a thriving blues music scene.<br />
46 Great Victoria Street,<br />
tel: +44 (0)28 9024 3187<br />
3<br />
Kelly’s Cellars<br />
There’s some competition for the<br />
title of Belfast’s oldest pub, but Kelly’s<br />
Cellars can claim to be the city’s<br />
oldest continually licensed premises.<br />
Built in 1720, the low ceilings and<br />
pleasing gloom make it feel as though<br />
things haven’t changed much since<br />
then, so it’s the perfect spot for an<br />
authentic Irish pint.<br />
30 Bank Street,<br />
tel: +44 (0)28 9032 4835<br />
4<br />
The John<br />
Hewitt Bar<br />
When you’ve worked up an appetite,<br />
head for The John Hewitt. Based in<br />
Belfast’s trendy Cathedral Quarter,<br />
it won Best Gastro Pub 2010 at<br />
the Northern Ireland FATE Awards.<br />
Owned by the Belfast Unemployed<br />
Resource Centre, it’s also a popular<br />
venue for live Ulster-Scots music.<br />
51 Donegall Street,<br />
tel: +44 (0)28 9023 3768<br />
5<br />
Carnival Parade<br />
The carnival parade is Belfast’s main<br />
St Patrick’s Day event. Starting<br />
from Belfast City Hall at noon and<br />
winding its way to Custom House<br />
Square, the event features acrobats,<br />
pipers and performers, as well as<br />
local community groups. The theme<br />
this year is the environment, so the<br />
parade will be aiming to turn Belfast<br />
green in more ways than one.<br />
Belfast City Hall, Donegall Square<br />
6<br />
St Patrick’s<br />
Day Concert<br />
The annual St Patrick’s Day concert<br />
kicks off at 1pm with a line-up of<br />
traditional music and dance, before<br />
headliners Stacey Solomon and<br />
Lemar take to the stage and the<br />
pre-teen screaming starts. The<br />
concert is free and entry is fi rst<br />
come fi rst served, so get there<br />
when the gates open at noon to<br />
stand a chance of seeing the show.<br />
Custom House Square<br />
7<br />
McHugh’s<br />
Another of the competitors for the<br />
oldest pub crown, McHugh’s is based<br />
in Belfast’s oldest building. Not that<br />
you’ll get much sense of history on<br />
St Patrick’s Day – the location<br />
on Queen’s Square, just around<br />
the corner from the concert venue,<br />
means its three fl oors will be<br />
packed with partygoers until late.<br />
29–31 Queens Square,<br />
tel: +44 (0)28 9050 9999<br />
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THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />
HOTEL<br />
REVIEWS,<br />
NEWS &<br />
OFFERS<br />
NORDIC HOTEL<br />
FORUM<br />
TALLINN<br />
The Nordic Hotel Forum in Tallinn<br />
is the jewel in the Nordic chain’s crown.<br />
On the top fl oor of this forward-thinking,<br />
splendidly situated venue you’ll discover<br />
an unexpected oasis: a forest lake-themed<br />
relaxation centre boasting a pool, sauna,<br />
gym and Jacuzzi, plus exquisite views of the<br />
city’s medieval Old Town, with cocktails<br />
available on demand. It’s a fi ne way to wind<br />
down after a day’s hectic networking.<br />
Tallinn is a thriving hub of 21st-century<br />
commerce, and the Nordic prides itself on<br />
providing the perfect base without maxing<br />
out the expense account. There are Skype<br />
phones in every business room with credit<br />
already added so you can phone mobiles<br />
anywhere in the world for free. Add to that<br />
free parking and free Wi-Fi, and you can<br />
see why it’s so popular with guests from<br />
around the world.<br />
This is chiefl y a well-appointed business<br />
and conference hotel, but there are some<br />
pleasingly luxurious touches: the spacious<br />
walk-in wet room, for example, is all the<br />
more agreeable when the interactive, pipedin<br />
TV is tuned to a music station. It says<br />
something about a place when even your<br />
morning ablutions come with a high-tech<br />
boost. From €90, book at hotels.easyJet.com<br />
28 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />
ÇIRAĞAN PALACE<br />
KEMPINSKI<br />
ISTANBUL<br />
Built in 1874 for Sultan Abdülaziz, this<br />
marble hotel was one of the Ottoman<br />
Empire’s fi nest royal palaces. By the mid-<br />
20th century it had fallen into disrepair,<br />
and in the 1970s it was abandoned, local<br />
residents turning its sunken gardens into<br />
a popular public swimming pool.<br />
Today, the Çıra˘gan Palace is one<br />
of Europe’s most sumptuous hotels,<br />
personifying Istanbul’s high society.<br />
It sits just north of the Golden Horn<br />
in Istanbul’s belle-époque European<br />
quarter, nudged up against the mighty<br />
Bosphorus on one side with the lovely,<br />
pavilion-dotted Yıldız Park on the other.<br />
The décor dovetails with the hotel’s<br />
palatial history – all plush textiles,<br />
silks, soft wools and traditional Turkish<br />
motifs. And if that all makes you feel<br />
like a spoiled sultan, slip down the hall<br />
to the authentic Turkish steam baths.<br />
As well as the manicured gardens,<br />
huge outdoor swimming pool with<br />
dramatic views across the river, and<br />
cluster of luxury shops, the Çıra˘gan<br />
Palace boasts several top-notch<br />
restaurants. Tu˘gra (dinner only)<br />
serves classic Turkish and Ottoman<br />
food updated by chef U˘gur Alparslan.<br />
Or try Sunday brunch at Laledan,<br />
where the 100-platter buffet includes<br />
freshly shucked oysters, a sushi bar<br />
and pyramids of Turkish delight –<br />
simply divine. From €320, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com
WORDS KIMBERLEY CHEN, SI HAWKINS, KATHRYN TOMASETTI<br />
LATEST NEWS 3<br />
MUNICH The Leonardo Royal<br />
Hotel in Munich opened earlier<br />
this year, a 424-room modern<br />
hotel that has a 1,800m 2<br />
conference room and a stunning<br />
ballroom that can fi t up to<br />
700 guests. The trendy Vitruv<br />
restaurant serves a combination<br />
of Bavarian, Mediterranean and<br />
Asian cuisine, while the Leo90<br />
bar is the ideal place if you want<br />
to unwind with a drink. From<br />
€69, book at hotels.easyJet.com<br />
MADRID For an elegant break<br />
in the heart of the Spanish capital,<br />
the 19th-century NH Palacio de<br />
Tepa, which opened at the end<br />
of last year, is a luxurious choice.<br />
Ideally located in Madrid’s arty<br />
Las Letras district, the hotel is<br />
within walking distance of the<br />
Prado Museum, the Reina Sofi a<br />
Art Centre and the famous Plaza<br />
Mayor and Plaza Santa Ana. The<br />
redesign of the original mansion<br />
preserved its original features, but<br />
all 85 rooms now feature the latest<br />
high-tech touches, including Wi-<br />
Fi and iPod speakers. From €159,<br />
book at hotels.easyJet.com<br />
VIENNA Sofi tel has pulled off<br />
a coup with the new Sofi tel Vienna<br />
Stephansdom. The brainchild of<br />
renowned architect Jean Nouvel,<br />
this cutting-edge hotel has<br />
multicoloured video ceilings and<br />
a living wall made up of 20,000<br />
different species of plants. To<br />
fully appreciate the hotel’s<br />
location and design, book a table<br />
at the glass-walled restaurant on<br />
the 18th fl oor to watch the sun go<br />
down on this beautiful city. From<br />
€355, book at sofi tel.com<br />
OF THE<br />
BEST<br />
THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />
MICHELIN-STARRED HOTEL RESTAURANTS<br />
THE CLIFF BAY<br />
MADEIRA<br />
The fi rst thing to greet you as you enter The<br />
Cliff Bay is the vast, blue Atlantic. But it’s<br />
not the views that have visitors fl ocking to<br />
this fi ve-star venue; it’s the gorgeous Il Gallo<br />
d’Oro – the only Michelin-worthy restaurant<br />
in Madeira. Run by Benoît Sinthon, it<br />
serves an elegant menu of Italian and<br />
Mediterranean cuisine. From €190, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com<br />
CHESTER GROSVENOR & SPA<br />
MANCHESTER<br />
The Grade II-listed Chester Grosvenor hotel<br />
has bags of character, but its greatest draw<br />
is Simon Radley’s restaurant. A respectful<br />
hush prevails in the smart dining room, as<br />
guests attend to the extraordinary dishes<br />
placed before them. The restaurant has<br />
held its Michelin star for two decades, and<br />
it’s easy to see why. From €207, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com<br />
L’OXALYS<br />
GRENOBLE<br />
Who says cuisine on the slopes has to<br />
be a greasy plate of tartifl ette? L’Oxalys is<br />
a charming four-star hotel complex in Val<br />
Thorens, and its double Michelin-starred<br />
restaurant of the same name is run by<br />
hotshot Jean Sulpice – the youngest chef<br />
in France with two stars. The menu is<br />
surprisingly aff ordable, and the inventive<br />
dishes sure to impress. montagnettes.com<br />
This month’s best deals at easyJet.com<br />
Soak up the culture of Portugal’s beautiful<br />
second city, Porto, in the friendly DIXO’S<br />
OPORTO. A hostel set in a stunning 19thcentury<br />
UNESCO World Heritage building,<br />
it was recently renovated and its owners<br />
claim that it’s the most central hostel in<br />
the city. It’s certainly perfectly located for<br />
strolling along the banks of the Douro River,<br />
or exploring Porto’s famous wine cellars.<br />
From €16, book at easyJet.hostelworld.com<br />
Set in the heart of Sofi a’s vibrant and<br />
thriving Ivan Shishman Strasse, CANAPÉ<br />
CONNECTION is a cool new hostel with<br />
bags of personality. The friendly staff will<br />
organise airport pick-ups and drop-offs,<br />
and a breakfast of pancakes or banitsa<br />
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unlimited internet access are all included<br />
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book at easyJet.hostelworld.com<br />
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MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 29
THE BUZZ | TRAVEL NEWS<br />
8–22 MAY<br />
6–9 JULY<br />
Ironman Lanzarote<br />
LANZAROTE<br />
Most visitors to the Canaries<br />
settle for sitting on the beach<br />
and taking the occasional dip<br />
in the sea, but how would you<br />
fancy swimming 3.8km, cycling<br />
180km and running 42.2km<br />
around Lanzarote? Widely<br />
regarded as one of the toughest<br />
triathlons in the world – and<br />
it’s not as if the easiest one is<br />
a synch – Ironman Lanzarote<br />
30 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />
Optimus Alive!<br />
LISBON<br />
Named after its sponsor<br />
– a telecoms company,<br />
not a Transformer – this<br />
Portuguese music festival<br />
takes place from 6–9 July<br />
in Oeiras, just outside<br />
Lisbon, and has something<br />
for everyone, however<br />
eccentric. Its inaugural<br />
year saw Pearl Jam and<br />
the Beastie Boys partying<br />
like it was 1997 rather<br />
than 2007; 2008 pitted<br />
(race day is 21 May) is an<br />
incredible feat of endurance<br />
that takes at least nine hours<br />
to complete. If you can live<br />
without the kudos, sunburn and<br />
$75,000 prize money, there<br />
are enough ancillary treats –<br />
a pasta party to build up those<br />
essential carbs, fi reworks, even<br />
Ironman Kids – to tire out the<br />
most dedicated spectators.<br />
ironmanlanzarote.com<br />
Bob Dylan against Rage<br />
Against The Machine; The<br />
Prodigy scared the pants<br />
off the Dave Matthews<br />
Band in 2009; and 2010<br />
went (comparatively)<br />
underground with Skunk<br />
Anansie and Biff y Clyro.<br />
With Coldplay, Foo Fighters<br />
and Chemical Brothers<br />
(pictured) all confi rmed,<br />
<strong>2011</strong> should be huge – all<br />
the more so since ticket<br />
prices remain comparatively<br />
tiny at €129 for a four-day<br />
pass. optimusalive.com<br />
BOOK<br />
AHEAD<br />
Planning something<br />
diff erent over the next<br />
few months? Make<br />
a note in your diary<br />
and get to one of<br />
these events<br />
3–18 JUNE<br />
Holland<br />
Festival<br />
AMSTERDAM<br />
Eclecticism is the watchword at this<br />
citywide celebration of music, theatre<br />
and dance, a fi xture on the local cultural<br />
calendar since 1947. Previous alumni<br />
range from opera singer Maria Callas<br />
to avant-garde composer Frank Zappa,<br />
and the pick-and-mix programming<br />
shows no sign of abating this year.<br />
The festival opens with Christoph<br />
Schlingensief’s Mea Culpa, an opera<br />
inspired by its composer’s terminal<br />
cancer. Things get more upbeat with<br />
Fela! (pictured), a Tony award-winning<br />
tribute to political activist and Afrobeat<br />
pioneer Fela Kuti (produced by Jay-Z<br />
and Will Smith, no less), and Human<br />
Music Box, a pop-tinged homage to<br />
1920s German cabaret infl uenced by<br />
Kurt Weill and Kate Bush. Talk about<br />
a variety show. hollandfestival.nl<br />
PHOTO REX | WORDS MATT GLASBY
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Track down a calçotada for a true taste of traditional Catalan dining<br />
TUCKING INTO BURNT onions<br />
might not sound like the most<br />
appetising lunch, but it’s worth<br />
catching the end of the calçot<br />
season this month to experience<br />
a true culinary ritual. The sweet,<br />
leek-like onions are blackened<br />
on a barbecue or open fi re and<br />
served throughout winter across<br />
Catalonia, creating strong feelings<br />
(and plenty of messy faces)<br />
wherever they’re eaten.<br />
But this is no ordinary meal.<br />
The consumption of calçots is<br />
called a calçotada, and is usually a<br />
lunchtime aff air. The feast begins<br />
with wine, bread and around<br />
20 calçots per person, charred,<br />
tender and traditionally served<br />
steaming on a clay roofi ng tile.<br />
Twenty may seem like a lot<br />
Onion Eaters<br />
(especially given that calçots are<br />
usually eaten as a starter), but<br />
Pedro Fuentes Castillo, owner of<br />
Restaurant L’Antic Forn (28 Calle<br />
Pintor Fortuny, tel: +34 (0)93<br />
412 0286) says that he’s used to<br />
serving up many more than that.<br />
Fuentes Castillo also says that<br />
diners should stand up to eat,<br />
dipping their calçots in creamy<br />
romesco sauce before tilting their<br />
heads back and lowering the lot into<br />
their mouths. It’s great fun but not<br />
the most practical way to eat an<br />
onion, and most restaurants furnish<br />
diners with bibs and plastic gloves<br />
to protect them from the worst<br />
of the mess.<br />
Once the tile has been cleared,<br />
the main course begins. Barbecued<br />
meats such as lamb, rabbit and<br />
butifarra sausages are brought<br />
to the table, along with grilled<br />
vegetables and white beans. When<br />
diners begin loosening their belts<br />
THE BUZZ | TASTE BUDS<br />
a notch, waiters know it’s time to<br />
bring out the cava, desserts and<br />
coff ee. All of this feasting will set<br />
you back about €30 per person,<br />
making a calçotada a thoroughly<br />
reasonable indulgence.<br />
You’ll fi nd calçots served in<br />
restaurants all over Barcelona<br />
and the surrounding countryside,<br />
but the best place to eat them<br />
is Valls, a town just over an hour’s<br />
drive from Barcelona. Valls is the<br />
birthplace of the calçot tradition,<br />
and a calçot festival is held here<br />
every January, complete with a<br />
calçot-eating contest. Consuming<br />
calçots is more than a meal – it’s an<br />
event, a traditional way to celebrate<br />
winter, family, friends and, of<br />
course, those long, green onions.<br />
Regina Winkle-Bryan<br />
MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 33<br />
PHOTO © TIM WHITE
THE BUZZ | TASTE BUDS<br />
Fika<br />
Seeker<br />
For the Swedes, coff ee is<br />
more than a drink – it’s<br />
a way of life. And the best<br />
place to experience that<br />
life is in one of Gothenburg’s<br />
independent cafés<br />
UNTIL 2010 THERE were no branches of<br />
Starbucks in Sweden, but that doesn’t<br />
mean the Swedes don’t thirst after coff ee.<br />
On the contrary, Sweden consistently ranks<br />
among the world’s biggest coff ee-drinking<br />
countries (usually outdone only by Finland),<br />
and the fi ka, or coff ee break, is a national<br />
institution. To see the fi ka in action, head to<br />
Gothenburg, the city generally reckoned to<br />
be Sweden’s coff ee capital. Hang around<br />
its independent cafés, and it won’t be long<br />
before you see the obsession at fi rst hand.<br />
“If we want to meet up we’ll say, ‘Let’s<br />
have a fi ka!’” says Gothenburg resident<br />
Lena Larsson as she orders her favourite,<br />
a cappuccino and an apple bun, in Mauritz<br />
Kaff e (2 Fredsgatan, tel: +46 (0)31 806<br />
971). “In some countries people usually<br />
meet in the pub, but here we’re more likely<br />
to catch up over coff ee and a bun.” Larsson<br />
agrees that Gothenburg is Sweden’s<br />
coff ee centre, with even more high-quality,<br />
independent coff ee shops than Stockholm.<br />
Maybe it’s because it’s a university town<br />
(students are reliable café customers) that<br />
the cobbled streets are now chock-full<br />
of espresso bars, and the Old Town still<br />
houses places such as Le Petit Café<br />
(2 Haga Nygata, tel: +46 (0)31 127 191),<br />
all chintzy wallpaper and vintage chairs.<br />
To experience it for yourself, follow<br />
Larsson’s example and start in Mauritz<br />
Kaff e, the city’s longest-running coff ee<br />
34 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />
shop. “I opened this place 34 years ago,”<br />
says Tord Mauritz Wetter, the charismatic,<br />
white-haired owner/manager. “But this is an<br />
old company,” he adds, as if three decades<br />
of business made him a newbie. “My great<br />
grandfather, Mauritz Svensson, started<br />
importing coff ee to Gothenburg in 1888.<br />
We’re still doing the same, importing from<br />
Ethiopia, East Africa and Indonesia, but<br />
whereas he was selling to shops, we serve<br />
it here.” Wetter says that the popularity of<br />
coff ee in Sweden started with King Charles<br />
XII. “He went on a trip to Turkey and there<br />
he learned to love coff ee. By 1800 or so,<br />
because of him, coff ee became a big thing<br />
in Sweden. And now it’s very big.”<br />
Wetter bakes his own bread and fruit<br />
buns on the premises, and customers can<br />
also buy beans here. Like many in the trade,<br />
Wetter believes in roasting and grinding your<br />
own beans at home, and sells them in their<br />
raw, green state. Speaking to him it quickly<br />
becomes clear that leaving ground coff ee to<br />
sit around is a no-no: “Old coff ee loses all of<br />
the natural aromas!” I dip my hand into the<br />
pile of beans that are about to be ground for<br />
the espresso machine; they’re toasty-warm,<br />
having emerged from the small roasting<br />
oven just moments earlier.<br />
IN THE EARLY 1970S Wetter took a trip<br />
to Rome and brought the espresso bar<br />
concept back to Gothenburg. “We imported<br />
the Italian way of making coff ee, so to<br />
speak,” he laughs. To the uninitiated, that<br />
means no seats, just high tables at which to<br />
drink your espresso fast, Roma-style. “So<br />
we were the fi rst,” he continues. “Some 20<br />
years later, in the 1990s, the other coff ee<br />
bars came along, like da Matteo.”
PHOTOS © TIM WHITE<br />
Left, Le Petit<br />
Café, one of the<br />
Old Town’s oldschool<br />
options<br />
THE BUZZ | TASTE BUDS<br />
Clockwise from top<br />
left, Adam at Doppio,<br />
Mauritz Kaff e, da<br />
Matteo’s bakery, Café<br />
Kringlan, Bar Centro<br />
MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 35
THE BUZZ | TASTE BUDS<br />
FANCY A FIKA?<br />
FIVE OF THE BEST<br />
PLACES TO STOP<br />
FOR A COFFEE<br />
IN GOTHENBURG<br />
It’s a short walk from Mauritz to one of<br />
da Matteo’s three locations, tucked away<br />
off the hip little shopping street of Viktoria<br />
Passagen (14 Södra Larmgatan, tel: +46<br />
(0)31 774 2881). It’s bigger than Mauritz,<br />
and bright white with a fast-paced feel. If<br />
the queues are longer than usual today, it’s<br />
because the staff are celebrating the 15th<br />
birthday of this branch by giving away free<br />
cappuccinos to a grateful crowd. Overseeing<br />
the throng is manager Pernilla Gard, a<br />
25-year-old star of the Swedish coff ee<br />
scene. She competes as part of Sweden’s<br />
National Barista Team, which triumphed in<br />
2010’s Nordic Barista Cup. “Hopefully we<br />
36 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />
➳ BAR ITALIA<br />
These second-generation Italians couldn’t<br />
be more passionate about their coff ee bar.<br />
They haven’t closed for a single day in fi ve<br />
years of business, and the staff say they get<br />
together for lunch even on their days off .<br />
7 Prinsgatan<br />
will win again in August <strong>2011</strong> and make it to<br />
the world championships,” says Gard, who<br />
also off ers me a tour of da Matteo’s nearby<br />
micro-roastery and bakery.<br />
She introduces Per Nordby, the roast<br />
master, who shyly confi rms that it’s his<br />
name on many of the award certifi cates<br />
lining da Matteo’s walls. “Meeting our<br />
suppliers is important,” explains Gard. “So<br />
Per has been out to Kenya, Rwanda, Uganda<br />
and Brazil, and I have gone to Ethiopia. We’re<br />
a small business buying in small quantities,<br />
but we try to create a direct relationship with<br />
the farmers in the countries that supply us<br />
and make sure they get what they deserve.”<br />
➳ CAFE HUSAREN<br />
Husaren’s cinnamon buns are the size of<br />
your head, and popular with students<br />
as a nutritionally questionable alternative<br />
to a proper meal. Great coff ee, but Husaren<br />
lacks the quirkiness of other Old Town cafés.<br />
28 Haga Nygata, tel: +46 (0)31 136 378
PHOTOS © TIM WHITE<br />
➳ CAFE KRINGLAN<br />
They don’t come any cuter or cosier than<br />
this tiny Old Town café packed with the<br />
young and the beautiful. The counter is piled<br />
high with pastries and the benches covered<br />
with handmade cushions.<br />
13 Haga Nygata, tel: +46 (0)31 130 908<br />
Sweden may well trace its coff ee history<br />
back to the 19th century, but, says Gard,<br />
“In the past fi ve years the coff ee culture in<br />
Gothenburg has really taken off .” Like Wetter,<br />
she recommends a DIY approach: “Have<br />
your own grinder at home, and make sure<br />
the beans haven’t been roasted for too long.<br />
If they’re too dark, they’ve lost their aroma.”<br />
Walking through the da Matteo roasting<br />
house, Gard shows off the huge industrial<br />
roasting machine. “This is a new type of<br />
roaster; we’re one of the fi rst in Europe<br />
to have it,” she says proudly. “It’s the<br />
Loring SmartRoast – one of the most<br />
environmentally friendly machines.”<br />
➳ CIGARREN<br />
Bringing together two of Sweden’s greatest<br />
passions – drinking good coff ee and<br />
smoking good tobacco – this small café<br />
dedicates half of its fl oor space to a vast<br />
cigar humidor.<br />
6 Järntorget, tel: +46 (0)31 141 560<br />
Environmental responsibility is a factor<br />
throughout the Gothenburg coff ee scene,<br />
and the subject crops up again at Doppio<br />
(7 Krokslättsgatan, tel: +46 (0)31 425 666)<br />
while speaking to Australian co-owner/<br />
manager Adam Norman.<br />
“In Australia I found some places were<br />
concentrating on how the coff ee was<br />
sourced almost to the exclusion of what<br />
it actually tasted like,” says Norman, in<br />
between operating an espresso machine<br />
and chatting with regulars in fl uent Swedish.<br />
“We have Fairtrade coff ee here and it tastes<br />
excellent. I want coff ee to be Fairtrade and<br />
full-bodied, so I’ve worked hard to make<br />
THE BUZZ | TASTE BUDS<br />
➳ BAR CENTRO<br />
Lots of local coff ee lovers maintain that<br />
Bar Centro, a sparse, no-nonsense<br />
espresso bar, serves the tastiest coff ee<br />
in Gothenburg. It’s certainly up there<br />
with the best of them.<br />
31 Kyrkogatan, tel: +46 (0)31 711 0027<br />
Clockwise from far<br />
left, no-nonsense<br />
Bar Centro, Swedishstyle<br />
fi ka treats, the<br />
environmentally<br />
conscious Doppio,<br />
Tord Mauritz Wetter,<br />
a 34-year veteran of<br />
Gothenburg's thriving<br />
café scene<br />
sure that winning the moral high ground has<br />
never taken the focus away from the taste.”<br />
For Norman, making money isn’t the<br />
primary appeal of running a coff ee shop,<br />
an attitude that chimes well with the<br />
Gothenburg lifestyle. “We didn’t want to<br />
just be the owners counting the money.<br />
We wanted this to be a place people come<br />
to because of how it makes them feel. In<br />
Sweden, I fi nd there’s more emphasis on<br />
the spirit in which you do things, rather than<br />
how much money you make doing them.”<br />
Great coff ee, ethically sourced and expertly<br />
prepared? That’s the Swedish way.<br />
Sophy Grimshaw<br />
MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 37
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THE BUZZ | TASTE BUDS<br />
MENU<br />
The real taste of Bologna<br />
First of all, a warning. Visitors to Bologna should know that asking for a dish of spaghetti<br />
Bolognese in most of the city’s restaurants will result in plenty of withering looks, but not<br />
a lot to eat. In fact, the dish that’s a fi rm favourite at family dinners the world over just<br />
doesn’t exist in its so-called home town. But don’t panic – you can rest assured that you<br />
won’t miss its meaty, tomatoey goodness for long.<br />
Widely considered the Italian capital of gastronomy, Bologna is currently enjoying<br />
a remarkable revival of its historic culinary traditions. As many as 27 authentic recipes<br />
for local dishes have been registered at the city’s Chamber of Commerce, housed in the<br />
delightful 13th-century Palazzo della Mercanzia, and there are historic food shops and<br />
restaurants dotted throughout town. Family-run for generations, these old-style trattorias<br />
rub shoulders with a new breed of restaurants and delicatessens where every last detail has<br />
been carefully crafted for your culinary delight.<br />
We’ve put together a menu of our favourite Bolognese specialities, along with tips on where<br />
to try or buy them. So loosen your belt, and prepare to enjoy…<br />
ANTIPASTO<br />
Mortadella<br />
Sublime in sandwiches, Bologna’s famous aromatic sausage is also irresistible on its own,<br />
either fi nely sliced or chopped into cubes. Often known simply as “Bologna”, this slowcooked<br />
sausage dates back to Roman times when myrtle was used for fl avour. During the<br />
Middle Ages more spices were added, and it became a favourite at court banquets. Word of<br />
the city’s sausage spread across the generations, and it was fi rst exported to America and<br />
the rest of Europe as early as the 17th century.<br />
A good place to try mortadella and other authentic local delicacies is the recently opened<br />
restaurant Magnabulàgna (2B Via de Pepoli, tel: +39 051 234 126), just off Piazza Santo<br />
Stefano, one of Bologna’s most attractive squares. Or, if you’d like to prepare it yourself,<br />
buy it from Tamburini (1 Via Caprarie, tel: +39 051 234 726), a historic, family-run deli that<br />
continues to thrive 150 years after it was founded.<br />
40 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11
PHOTOS © GETTY, PHOTOLIBRARY<br />
THE BUZZ | TASTE BUDS<br />
PRIMI<br />
Tortellini & tagliatelle<br />
Pride of place on the Bologna dinner table goes to deep, yellow pasta. While the<br />
commonplace tagliatelle al ragù (ribbon pasta with meaty sauce) was the inspiration behind<br />
spaghetti Bolognese, tortellini in brodo (meat-fi lled pasta in broth) is generally reserved for<br />
special occasions. Both varieties have been around for more than fi ve centuries and have<br />
curious origins: a sensual contemplation of the female navel supposedly resulted in the<br />
delicate shape of tortellini, while tagliatelle was invented in the 15th century for society lady<br />
Lucrezia Borgia’s wedding feast, inspired by her luscious hair.<br />
The role of sfoglino – skilled pasta maker – is much sought after and there’s a waiting list<br />
for the professional courses run by TV chef Alessandra Spisni at her Vecchia Scuola<br />
Bolognese cookery school (49 Via Malvasia, tel: +39 051 649 1576, lavecchiascuola.com).<br />
The half-day introduction to pasta courses can still be booked at the last minute though.<br />
SECONDI<br />
Carrello dei bolliti con salsa verde<br />
When it comes to the main course there’s not quite such a consensus of opinion, but<br />
old-school votes go to the carrello dei bolliti (trolley of mixed, boiled meats). In traditional<br />
trattorias like the family-run Da Bertino (55 Via Lame, tel: +39 051 522 230) an old-fashioned<br />
stainless-steel serving trolley containing steaming cuts of meat cooked in broth is wheeled<br />
to your table and sliced in front of you. All sorts of sauces are off ered too, the most popular<br />
being salsa verde, made to a time-honoured recipe with parsley, capers, anchovy and garlic.<br />
Another tasty main course that’s also a registered recipe is cotoletta alla Bolognese: a slab of<br />
veal topped with ham and Parmesan, coated in breadcrumbs then fried in butter.<br />
MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 41
THE BUZZ | TASTE BUDS<br />
CONTORNO<br />
Friggione<br />
Ideal with bolliti and delicious alone, this sumptuous side dish – a smooth and creamy<br />
blend of white onions and tomatoes, slow-cooked in lard – is a real treat for the taste buds.<br />
While the offi cial recipe, which dates from 1886, calls for a high proportion of onion,<br />
today’s chefs tend to use rather more tomato than their predecessors, and some even<br />
add red pepper for a deeper colour and more of a tang. Tucked away down a tiny alley near<br />
the market, Trattoria Gianni (18 Via Clavature, tel: +39 051 229 434) is a great<br />
choice for authentic friggione, and all the other dishes mentioned in our menu.<br />
DOLCE<br />
Certosino<br />
Yet another recipe that dates back several centuries – at least to medieval times, when<br />
it was known as panspeziale – this fruitcake was later named after the 18th-century monks<br />
of the Certosa monastery, who baked it for the future Pope Benedetto XIV. Made with<br />
a dense mix of candied fruit, almonds, pine nuts, chocolate and cinnamon, it’s always been<br />
considered a typical Christmas food, but in recent years local bakers have made it all year<br />
round. There are two Paolo Atti bakeries in central Bologna (7 Via Caprarie, tel: +39 051 220<br />
425 and 6A Via Drapperie, tel: +39 051 233 349), both of which sell certosino in souvenir<br />
boxes based on the original design used around a century ago.<br />
VINI<br />
Not as well known for its wines as some other Italian regions, Emilia Romagna is steadily<br />
making a name for itself. So, what to drink with a traditional meal? For starters, go for<br />
a light and lively Pignoletto. This crisp white is also considered ideal with tortellini, but when<br />
it comes to the robust fl avours of the meaty main course, most Bolognese diners would opt<br />
for a full-bodied Sangiovese, while a glass of Albana Passito with a chunk of certosino will<br />
round off the meal perfectly. Albana is the region’s only wine to bear the DOCG guarantee<br />
and is the fi rst Italian white to gain such a prestigious European hallmark.<br />
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THE BUZZ | TASTE BUDS<br />
Maria Mulata<br />
BERLIN<br />
The beauty of Neukölln is that it still hasn’t<br />
become as expensive as the trendier<br />
suburbs of Mitte or Prenzlauer Berg,<br />
and yet its restaurants and bars are just<br />
as fun as any of Berlin’s more famous<br />
neighbourhoods. Take Maria Mulata,<br />
tucked away down a side street just off<br />
Sonnenallee. From the outside you might<br />
easily assume this was just another<br />
Spanish restaurant, but step inside and<br />
you’ll discover a cosy yet modern hideaway<br />
that’s a long way from the traditional tapas<br />
bar – comics cover the walls and diners can<br />
relax in leather armchairs as they eat.<br />
The tapas is delicious, covering<br />
a broad range from the traditional (both<br />
the chorizo and the patatas bravas with<br />
aioli deserve special mention) to the more<br />
inventive (make sure you try the dates<br />
wrapped in bacon). But don’t stop with our<br />
Spring<br />
PARIS<br />
The French capital’s latest outpost of<br />
culinary cool is not for picky eaters –<br />
there’s no à la carte at Spring, and don’t<br />
even think about asking for a vegetarian<br />
option. Instead, the restaurant off ers one<br />
set menu at lunch (€38) and another<br />
at dinner (€64), with Chicago-born<br />
Daniel Rose’s chef-knows-best method<br />
kicking seasonality up to a whole new<br />
level. Scouring Paris’s food markets for<br />
inspiration, Rose creates unrepeatable<br />
one-off s, such as smoked tomatoes,<br />
thyme sorbet and peachy pink veal.<br />
They’re proving pretty popular – you’ll<br />
need to reserve seats for lunch a week in<br />
advance, and for dinner two to three<br />
months earlier than that.<br />
If your forward planning doesn’t stretch<br />
that far, pop down to Spring’s wine bar,<br />
Buvette. Open in the evenings only, the<br />
bar doesn’t take reservations and the wise<br />
arrive at 7pm sharp. It’s a little more rustic,<br />
and diners are encouraged to order tapas-<br />
44 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />
recommendations – the staff are incredibly<br />
friendly and will be more than happy to<br />
suggest their favourites from the menu,<br />
along with wine to match.<br />
All dishes are well priced and many<br />
come in at under €5, so it’s easy to see<br />
why Maria Mulata is so popular with<br />
style plates at their own pace, such as thinly<br />
sliced lomito bellota (Spanish dry-cured<br />
sausage, €9) or sizzling seared apricots<br />
stuff ed with unctuous duck (€8).<br />
Or, if you’d rather eat elsewhere, opt for<br />
a gourmet picnic from Spring Boutique,<br />
just down the street (52 Rue de l’Arbre Sec).<br />
There’s a charcuterie and cheese counter,<br />
Berlin’s Spanish community. Its lively,<br />
friendly atmosphere will draw you in, but<br />
you’ll keep coming back because the<br />
portions are big and the prices are small.<br />
88 Wildenbruchstrasse, Neukölln,<br />
tel: +49 (0)163 918 9597, mariamulata.de<br />
Lucy Higgins<br />
and the shelves are lined with chutneys, tins<br />
of sea urchin roe and mind-blowing Jean-<br />
Charles Rochoux chocolate bars. Almost<br />
every bottle of wine has a tasting price,<br />
meaning you can sip a glass at the bar,<br />
then buy a bottle to take home.<br />
6 Rue Bailleul, tel: +33 (0)1 4596 0572,<br />
springparis.fr Kathryn Tomasetti<br />
PHOTOS © OLIVIA RUTHERFORD AND UTE HAUFE
Potsdam – City of Film <strong>2011</strong><br />
Movie history has been written in Potsdam-Babelsberg for nearly 100 years. Names such as<br />
Marlene Dietrich and Fritz Lang stand for the past; Natalie Portman and Quentin Tarantino<br />
are representative of the present day studios. The Babelsberg Film Park, as a theme park, is<br />
both stage and shop window of this media city. In the oldest museum of fi lm in Germany,<br />
the visitor can learn more about the people both in front of and behind the camera.<br />
The ‘<strong>2011</strong> – City of Film’ theme year will be celebrating Potsdam with a plethora of events<br />
such as Film Locations of the Month, the espionage fi lm night on the Glienicke Bridge<br />
(photo) and lots of other different attractions besides.<br />
www.reiseland-brandenburg.de | brandenburg-tourism.com and potsdam-tourism.com
PRAGUE!<br />
It’s really worth it<br />
Great atmosphere, fantastic people, lots of fun.<br />
Prague is great, come and see it!<br />
Paul Stamp / MANCHESTER<br />
www.praguewelcome.com
PRAGUE<br />
BLOSSOMING<br />
IN BEAUTY<br />
As winter thaws, one of Europe’s best-loved cities, the Czech<br />
capital of Prague, is preparing to spring back into life.<br />
FOR YEARS, PRAGUE has been one of<br />
the most visited tourist destinations, with<br />
millions coming to enjoy its remarkable<br />
history and architecture and rich selection<br />
of culture and entertainment. In addition<br />
to the largest historical city reserve listed<br />
in the UNESCO World Heritage list, Prague<br />
boasts many other attractions. In spring<br />
and summer, the city parks and historical<br />
gardens are open; the Vltava River is<br />
traversed by sightseeing steamboats; and<br />
cultural institutions have full programmes,<br />
guaranteeing an unforgettable visit.<br />
Festive atmosphere<br />
The beginning of the tourist season has<br />
traditionally been associated with Easter.<br />
For the entire month of April, the Old Town<br />
Square blossoms into a colourful garden,<br />
with Easter goodies, traditional crafts and a<br />
festive atmosphere.<br />
A walk round the well-preserved historical<br />
city centre is a must. The so-called Royal<br />
Way is the coronation procession route<br />
that Czech kings took from the Old Town to<br />
Prague Castle, and this is still where the most<br />
impressive views of Prague’s monuments<br />
can be enjoyed. The palace gardens – newly<br />
restored thanks in part to an initiative of Prince<br />
Charles – are also worth visiting.<br />
Entertainment for everybody<br />
An evening jazz cruise down the Vltava<br />
River is a remarkable experience. Or you can<br />
travel by steam boat to the largest Zoo in the<br />
Czech Republic, in Troja, whose inhabitants<br />
include a male gorilla, Kiburi, and a<br />
Rothschild giraff e cub born earlier this year.<br />
Prague is also renowned for its<br />
rich cultural life. The 66th year of the<br />
international music festival Prague Spring<br />
is worth seeing, with a festive presentation<br />
of Mahler’s Symphony No. 8 as its highlight.<br />
Lovers of classical music will enjoy the third<br />
year of the Easter Festival. And pop music<br />
fans will appreciate the United Islands of<br />
Prague music festival, held on the Vltava<br />
River’s islands and embankments.<br />
Sports-lovers will not lack for excitement<br />
either, with biking, horseback-riding and<br />
tennis and, for the golfers, 17 courses<br />
located within 50 km of Prague.<br />
FESTIVALS<br />
EASTER FESTIVALS<br />
Classical and jazz<br />
music focused on<br />
spiritual pieces<br />
associated with Easter.<br />
Prague, 19–30 April<br />
<strong>2011</strong>, www.fok.cz<br />
PRAGUE SPRING<br />
The oldest Czech<br />
music festival, with<br />
leading international<br />
ensembles and soloists.<br />
Prague, 12 May–4 June<br />
<strong>2011</strong>, www.festival.cz<br />
UNITED ISLANDS<br />
OF PRAGUE<br />
A multi-genre festival<br />
with the absolute best<br />
of contemporary<br />
world music.<br />
Prague, 23–25<br />
June <strong>2011</strong>,<br />
www. unitedislands.cz<br />
SUMMER LETNÁ<br />
International festival of<br />
new circus and theatre<br />
in one of the most<br />
beautiful city parks.<br />
Prague, 21 August–4<br />
September <strong>2011</strong>,<br />
www.letniletna.cz<br />
CONCERTS<br />
ROGER WATERS<br />
The legendary founder<br />
of Pink Floyd is coming<br />
on his latest tour,<br />
The Wall Live.<br />
Prague, O2 Arena,<br />
15 & 16 April <strong>2011</strong>,<br />
www.rogerwaters.com<br />
ADVERTISING PROMOTION<br />
SADE<br />
The popular British<br />
singer’s fi rst tour in 17<br />
years will stop in Prague.<br />
Prague, O2 Arena, 14 May<br />
<strong>2011</strong>, www.sade.com<br />
SUZI QUATRO<br />
The American rocker<br />
and 1970s-80s icon<br />
is coming to play her<br />
greatest hits.<br />
Prague, Prumyslový<br />
palác, 27 May <strong>2011</strong>,<br />
www.suziquatro.com<br />
BRYAN ADAMS<br />
The American rocker<br />
and 1970s-80s icon<br />
is coming to play her<br />
greatest hits.<br />
Prague, O2 Arena,<br />
19 June <strong>2011</strong>,<br />
www.bryanadams.com<br />
EXHIBITIONS<br />
THE GOLDEN SIXTIES<br />
An entertaining look at<br />
this period which led<br />
to the occupation of<br />
Czechoslovakia.<br />
Prague, Vítkov National<br />
Monument, until 15 May<br />
<strong>2011</strong>, www.zlatasedesata.cz<br />
KAREL ŠKRÉTA<br />
(1610-1674): HIS<br />
TIME AND WORK<br />
An exhibition of the<br />
works of the most<br />
important Czech<br />
Baroque painter.<br />
Prague, Wallenstein Riding<br />
Hall, until 10 April <strong>2011</strong>,<br />
www.skreta.cz
PHOTO © MATTHEW TELLER<br />
NEW<br />
ROUTE<br />
LEADING<br />
THE WAY<br />
FORWARD THINKING AND<br />
ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY,<br />
JORDAN IS EMERGING AS<br />
A SURPRISE STAR OF<br />
SUSTAINABLE TOURISM<br />
MATTHEW TELLER<br />
FEATURES | AMMAN<br />
MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 49
FEATURES | AMMAN<br />
Right, the Dana Valley<br />
nature reserve. Previous<br />
page, the Siq canyon at<br />
the ancient city of Petra<br />
WHEN YOU THINK of eco-tourism you<br />
might dream of an Algarve eco-village,<br />
trekking in the Alps, or whale watching in<br />
Scotland. You probably wouldn’t think of<br />
a holiday in one of the world’s most waterpoor<br />
nations, where around 90% of the land<br />
is classifi ed as arid desert. But then I’ve been<br />
visiting Jordan for more than 15 years, and<br />
it still manages to surprise me.<br />
50 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />
The Middle East is coming late to the<br />
eco-tourism party. While showy Gulf<br />
destinations trumpet the latest mega<br />
scheme, little Jordan has been quietly<br />
getting on with developing environmentally<br />
friendly, sustainable tourism from the<br />
grass roots up. At the vanguard has<br />
been the country’s Royal Society for the<br />
Conservation of Nature, or RSCN.<br />
Founded in 1966 to regulate hunting, the<br />
RSCN campaigned throughout the 1970s<br />
and 1980s on behalf of the Arabian oryx,<br />
an endangered desert antelope brought to<br />
the edge of extinction by hunting. In the<br />
process it slowly transformed itself into an<br />
organisation of dedicated conservationists.<br />
Today the RSCN forms one of the<br />
region’s most determined and effective
PHOTO © PHOTOLIBRARY<br />
green lobbies, pressing the Jordanian<br />
government for preservation of the country’s<br />
fragile – and shrinking – natural habitats.<br />
Since the 1990s it has expanded into<br />
sustainable tourism as a way to support its<br />
conservation goals, gaining international<br />
recognition in October 2010 when the Wild<br />
Jordan tourism unit won the Guardian<br />
newspaper’s Ethical Travel Award.<br />
It’s worth dropping by the Wild Jordan<br />
information centre, located just a stroll from<br />
Rainbow Street, Amman’s buzziest district<br />
of bookshops and craft outlets. Perched<br />
among historic, century-old villas on the<br />
slopes of Jabal Amman – jabal means hill,<br />
and this city has lots of them – its lively<br />
Wild Jordan Café (Othman bin Affan Street,<br />
tel: +962 (0)6 463 3542) is a lovely place to<br />
FEATURES | AMMAN<br />
JORDAN<br />
HAS QUIETLY<br />
DEVELOPED<br />
ITS OWN<br />
SUSTAINABLE<br />
TOURISM FROM<br />
THE GRASS<br />
ROOTS UP<br />
stop. The café does sensational drinks and<br />
smoothies – don’t miss the fresh-pressed<br />
frozen lemonade with mint – and is also<br />
one of the few places in Amman to make<br />
a selling point of its organic food, with<br />
ingredients sourced locally. You can book<br />
wilderness excursions around Jordan, learn<br />
more about the RSCN’s conservation work,<br />
and pick up craft items and handmade<br />
MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 51
FEATURES | AMMAN<br />
silver jewellery at the Nature Shop. But the<br />
rear terrace is the real draw: visit at sunset<br />
for amazing panoramic views of the city.<br />
Yet 21st-century green thinking doesn’t<br />
stop at the city limits. A three-hour drive<br />
south of Amman lies the ancient “lost city”<br />
of Petra, once capital of a trading empire<br />
that stretched into Syria and Arabia. Even<br />
here, among tombs and temples carved into<br />
a hidden mountain valley, environmental<br />
awareness is having an impact. For years<br />
the authorities struggled to provide suitable<br />
toilet facilities within this vast, dusty<br />
UNESCO-protected site. Technology<br />
has, thankfully, caught up: today, as you<br />
stroll between the monuments, you’ll<br />
spot environmentally friendly eco-toilets<br />
distributed discreetly along the main path.<br />
But it’s in Jordan’s less-visited wilderness<br />
areas that you can start to get under the skin<br />
of this unsung eco-destination. Distances<br />
are small, landscapes are varied and there’s<br />
a good infrastructure for rural tourism. Only<br />
75km north of Amman, the modest market<br />
town of Ajloun stands amid dense forests<br />
at 1,000m above sea level: up here the air is<br />
fresh and the scenery is green and beautiful.<br />
Ajloun’s 800-year-old castle, built by<br />
Saladin’s armies to defend against the<br />
Crusaders, is a popular attraction, visible for<br />
miles around silhouetted on a hilltop. Here,<br />
you can spend a fi ne afternoon roaming<br />
around its old rooms and climbing stone<br />
staircases to emerge at the highest point<br />
of the ruins for a spectacular view over the<br />
orchards, olive groves and country villages.<br />
It may have slipped your attention,<br />
but <strong>2011</strong> is International Year of Forests,<br />
so it’s the perfect time to book a stay in<br />
the RSCN’s Ajloun Forest Reserve (from<br />
52 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />
JD59; tel: +962 (0)6 463 3589, rscn.org.jo),<br />
outside the town. Quiet country lanes lead<br />
to the reserve buildings, set in the heart of<br />
rolling Mediterranean woodland – mainly<br />
evergreen oak, with pistachio, carob and<br />
wild strawberry trees among the olives.<br />
WHEN I ARRIVED, Louai Al-Nimry,<br />
tourism manager at the reserve, was<br />
waiting to welcome me with a glass of<br />
sage tea and a run-through of the reserve’s<br />
fauna, which includes some very European<br />
names (foxes, badgers and wild boar)<br />
alongside wildcats, striped hyena and<br />
Asiatic jackals. Roe deer, previously extinct<br />
here, now roam freely within the reserve.<br />
Louai’s enthusiasm is infectious; born and<br />
raised in the adjacent village of Orjan, he<br />
explained how he’d rejected job offers from<br />
big hotels to come back to the countryside.<br />
This kind of attitude permeates the<br />
whole place. All the food served at dinner<br />
and breakfast is locally produced, from the<br />
yoghurt and goat’s cheese to the chicken,<br />
fresh-baked bread, wild herbs and fruit jam.<br />
One of the reserve’s many walking trails<br />
leads to Rasoun village, where I stopped<br />
in at the Soap House, an RSCN project to<br />
employ local women making luxury olive-oil<br />
soap. Manager Rima Hamzat showed me<br />
around, explaining how village families are<br />
benefi ting from this new source of income.<br />
“Before this project we didn’t do anything,”<br />
she told me. “Now our girls are able to study<br />
at university and have work in our village.”<br />
Far to the east, in Jordan’s open, stony<br />
deserts, the Azraq oasis, which attracts<br />
migrating birds in their thousands, is now<br />
protected as a wetland habitat, home to<br />
TELLER<br />
MATTHEW PHOTOLIBRARY, SUPERSTOCK,<br />
Clockwise from top,<br />
©<br />
an Arabian oryx, the<br />
Azraq wetlands, Aljoun’s<br />
800-year-old castle PHOTOS
AZRAQ OASIS<br />
ATTRACTS MIGRATING<br />
BIRDS IN THEIR<br />
THOUSANDS, AND IS<br />
NOW A PROTECTED<br />
ENVIRONMENT<br />
FEATURES | AMMAN<br />
MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 53
FEATURES | AMMAN<br />
unique fauna from water buffalo to tiny,<br />
silver killifi sh. The RSCN has converted an<br />
old British army fi eld hospital into tourist<br />
lodgings, bringing in a local Chechen<br />
family to prepare home-cooked meals for<br />
overnight visitors from their repertoire<br />
of folk recipes. Azraq’s traditional salt<br />
industry has been decimated, and the<br />
RSCN has been working against a<br />
backdrop of economic depression to help<br />
local women produce craft items for sale in<br />
nature shops around Jordan, giving them<br />
an alternative source of local income.<br />
It’s a classic RSCN way of working –<br />
conservation married with socio-economic<br />
development. As conservationist Chris<br />
Johnson explains: “This is how we try to<br />
work – to make sure the people dependent<br />
on the land are the main benefi ciaries of<br />
alternative livelihood programmes. We<br />
go in as equals, as partners.”<br />
I SWUNG SOUTH towards the RSCN’s<br />
fl agship scheme at Dana, a previously<br />
overlooked village in the mountains<br />
above Petra. For the past 15 years a project<br />
to protect a tract of land centred on the<br />
majestic Dana Valley has won international<br />
acclaim, not least for its success in<br />
pioneering responsible tourism.<br />
54 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />
Clockwise from here,<br />
Dana village, one of its<br />
residents, carved cave<br />
façades at Petra<br />
“THE PEOPLE<br />
DEPENDENT<br />
ON THE LAND<br />
ARE THE MAIN<br />
BENEFICIARIES”<br />
Dana consistently takes your breath<br />
away. From the low-key guesthouse at the<br />
top of the valley (from JD59; tel: +962<br />
(0)3 227 0497, rscn.org.jo), designed by<br />
Jordanian architect Ammar Khammash in<br />
the local style, to the solar-powered Feynan<br />
eco-lodge (from JD67; tel: +962 (0)6 464<br />
5580, feynan.com), with no electricity or<br />
road access, guests are guaranteed a unique<br />
experience. Virtually all of the tourismrelated<br />
jobs, from tour guides and rangers<br />
to managers, cooks, receptionists, cleaners<br />
and shop staff are taken by local villagers,<br />
so more than 800 people benefi t directly<br />
from Dana’s success.<br />
ONE OF THE most beautiful walks leads<br />
up to the eloquently named Shag ar-Rish,<br />
or “Canyon of the Feathers”. Setting off<br />
with twinkle-eyed nature guide Abu<br />
Yahya, we rambled amid fl ower-fi lled<br />
meadows, surrounded by the rocky domes<br />
that characterise the Dana heights. As we<br />
reached a pass and began to climb into<br />
the Canyon of the Feathers, Abu Yahya<br />
explained why the place was so named:<br />
not for the raptors that soared overhead,<br />
but for the sharp pinnacles of rock that<br />
fl ank the gorge, like feathers. The summit,<br />
dotted with evidence of settlement by<br />
the Nabateans – the people who built<br />
Petra, just 40km to the south – offered<br />
stupendous, silent vistas.<br />
This is what Jordan does so well these<br />
days: low-impact, sensitively developed,<br />
sustainable tourism, referred to in the<br />
trade as “soft adventure”, but always<br />
with that sense of grass-roots inspiration.<br />
Local tour operators are starting to cater<br />
for this growing market – three of the<br />
most noteworthy are Terhaal (terhaal.<br />
com), Sarha (sarha.jo) and Petra Moon<br />
(petramoon.com), all of whom offer<br />
hiking, trekking, mountain biking and<br />
various other exploratory trips into<br />
Jordan’s wilderness areas.<br />
As Ali Hasasseen, a local nature guide<br />
based at Feynan, explained: “If you follow<br />
the community’s way – their tradition and<br />
religion – you can create opportunity while<br />
preserving your culture. This is what we are<br />
doing. I love my work!”<br />
easyJet flies to...<br />
Amman from London Gatwick.<br />
See our Jordan Basics on page 56.<br />
Book online at easyJet.com<br />
PHOTOS © SUPERSTOCK
Queen Alia International Airport, Jordan’s State of the Art Gateway<br />
Airport International Group (AIG), a Jordanian company bringing together local, regional and international<br />
investment and expertise, is in the midst of transforming Queen Alia International Airport (QAIA), under a<br />
25-year concession awarded by the Government of Jordan for the management and redevelopment of<br />
Jordan’s premier hub. One of AIG’s core missions is to deliver high quality service facilities to its guests<br />
and business partners. Looking into the not too distant future; travelers will soon enjoy the amenities of<br />
the all-new and truly world-class QAIA.<br />
The construction of the new terminal is witnessing tangible progress; with the main terminal and first stage<br />
of the passengers piers due to open in mid-2012, which will revolutionize QAIA and better serve our<br />
rapidly growing market.<br />
This landmark US$750m private-sector investment by AIG will deliver spacious passenger facilities,<br />
increased aircraft capacity, an improved road traffic network and leading-edge technologies. On opening,<br />
the new QAIA terminal will play a pivotal role in promoting Jordan as a financial, trade and transportation<br />
hub, positioning Amman as the gateway of choice in the region, building strong global connections and<br />
serving as a source of prosperity and pride for all Jordanians.<br />
Queen Alia International Airport P.O. Box 39052 Amman 11104 Jordan<br />
Corporate: T +962 6 553 3836 F +962 6 553 3238 Airport: T +962 6 445 3000 F +962 6 445 3444 www.aig.aero<br />
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FEATURES | AMMAN<br />
JORDAN BASICS<br />
QUICK FACTS<br />
FULL NAME<br />
The Hashemite<br />
Kingdom of Jordan<br />
AREA<br />
92,300km 2<br />
POPULATION<br />
6.4m<br />
LANGUAGE<br />
Arabic (English is<br />
widely spoken)<br />
CAPITAL<br />
Amman<br />
PHONE COUNTRY CODE<br />
+962<br />
TIME<br />
GMT+2 in winter,<br />
GMT+3 in summer<br />
CURRENCY<br />
Jordanian dinar<br />
(known as “JD”)<br />
STORY OF A NATION – THE JORDAN TIMELINE<br />
6000 BC<br />
The world’s oldest<br />
surviving statues are<br />
produced in a Neolithic<br />
settlement at Ain<br />
Ghazal on Amman’s<br />
northeastern outskirts –<br />
tall, androgynous fi gures<br />
with large, painted eyes.<br />
56 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />
1200 BC<br />
After leading the<br />
Israelites through the<br />
wilderness, Moses<br />
climbs Mount Nebo,<br />
southwest of Amman,<br />
to view the Promised<br />
Land. He dies on the<br />
mountain.<br />
HAVE A WORD (OR TWO)<br />
Although Jordan’s offi cial language is Arabic, pretty much everyone connected<br />
with tourism can speak English (and often a handful of other languages as<br />
well), so you’re unlikely to have trouble getting your message across. However,<br />
mastering a few basic phrases will score you brownie points with the locals.<br />
HELLO (INFORMAL) MAR-HA-BA<br />
HELLO (FORMAL) ASSA-LA-MWA-LAY-KOOM<br />
GOOD MORNING SA-BAH-IL-KHAYR<br />
GOOD AFTERNOON/EVENING MA-SA-IL-KHAYR<br />
THANK YOU SHOO-KRUN<br />
GOODBYE MAA-SALAM-EH<br />
DON’T MIX THEM UP!<br />
AMMAN (AMM-AN) CAPITAL CITY OF JORDAN<br />
OMAN (OH-MAAN) ARABIAN COUNTRY NEAR DUBAI<br />
106 AD<br />
The Nabatean kingdom,<br />
with its capital at<br />
Petra, is absorbed into<br />
the Roman Empire.<br />
Petra enters a golden<br />
age of culture and<br />
sophistication.<br />
661<br />
After the Prophet<br />
Muhammad’s death<br />
in 632, the Umayyad<br />
dynasty establishes<br />
itself in Damascus,<br />
building palaces and<br />
hunting lodges as<br />
retreats in the desert.<br />
1100s<br />
Invading Christian<br />
armies from Europe –<br />
the Crusaders – build<br />
castles in Jordan to<br />
fortify their occupation,<br />
only to suff er expulsion<br />
by local resistance<br />
forces under Saladin.
GETTING<br />
AROUND IN<br />
AMMAN<br />
Amman was originally built on seven<br />
hills, but it now sprawls across a wide<br />
area. In general, east Amman is poorer<br />
and less developed, so you’re likely<br />
to spend most of your time in west<br />
Amman, where almost all the hotels are<br />
located. The map opposite won’t get<br />
you from A to B, but it should at least<br />
give fi rst-time visitors a rough idea of<br />
where the major areas are and how they<br />
relate to one another. Happy exploring!<br />
SWEIFIYA<br />
A glamorous quarter of fashion<br />
boutiques and shopping malls.<br />
AIM FOR ➳ WAKALAT STREET<br />
ABDOUN<br />
Head to this ritzy, upscale area for<br />
restaurants, cafés and bars.<br />
AIM FOR ➳ ABDOUN CIRCLE<br />
SHMEISANI<br />
This district of banks and offi ces has<br />
some popular pavement cafés. Take<br />
a trip up here and rub shoulders with<br />
local workers on their break.<br />
AIM FOR ➳ ELIA ABU MADI STREET<br />
1870s<br />
Persecution of Muslims<br />
in Russia leads to waves<br />
of refugees entering<br />
Syria and Jordan, with<br />
many settling in the<br />
then-abandoned Roman<br />
ruins at Amman.<br />
1917<br />
Prince Faisal and British<br />
offi cer TE Lawrence (of<br />
Arabia) launch the Arab<br />
Revolt, successfully<br />
ejecting Ottoman<br />
Turkish armies from<br />
the Arab lands of the<br />
Middle East.<br />
JABAL AMMAN<br />
A broad, hilly area of villas, apartment<br />
blocks, offi ces and embassies, marked<br />
by numbered traffi c intersections from<br />
1st to 8th Circle. Off 1st Circle is a string<br />
of sociable, buzzy cafés with a pleasant<br />
neighbourhood vibe – well worth a stop<br />
on your travels around the city.<br />
AIM FOR ➳ RAINBOW STREET<br />
JABAL AL-WEIBDEH<br />
A quiet, residential neighbourhood<br />
which is home to lots of churches and<br />
cultural institutions, including Jordan’s<br />
National Gallery.<br />
AIM FOR ➳ PARIS SQUARE<br />
1967<br />
Israel invades and<br />
occupies Jordanianheld<br />
territory on the<br />
West Bank of the River<br />
Jordan, including holy<br />
sites in Jerusalem and<br />
Bethlehem.<br />
1994<br />
King Hussein of Jordan<br />
and Israeli prime<br />
minister Yitzhak Rabin<br />
sign a full peace treaty.<br />
FEATURES | AMMAN<br />
JABAL AL-QALA’A<br />
“Citadel Hill” looms high above<br />
Downtown, topped by the remains of<br />
a Roman temple and an early Islamic<br />
palace complex.<br />
AIM FOR ➳ THE CITADEL<br />
DOWNTOWN<br />
This is without doubt the heart of<br />
the city. You’ll fi nd the Roman theatre<br />
and antiquities here, as well as the<br />
souks and the bustling street life that<br />
comes with them. Any trip to Amman<br />
should include at least one visit to this<br />
popular area.<br />
AIM FOR ➳ KING FAISAL STREET<br />
A NOBLE DYNASTY<br />
JORDAN IS OFFICIALLY “THE HASHEMITE KINGDOM OF JORDAN” (OR “HKJ” ON CAR BUMPER<br />
STICKERS). THE HASHEMITE DYNASTY ORIGINALLY RULED MECCA, THE HOLIEST CITY IN<br />
ISLAM, BUT NOW COMPRISES JORDAN’S ROYAL FAMILY. THE CURRENT KING, ABDULLAH II,<br />
IS THE 43RD-GENERATION DIRECT DESCENDANT OF THE PROPHET MUHAMMAD.<br />
1999<br />
On the death of King<br />
Hussein, his eldest son<br />
accedes to the throne as<br />
King Abdullah II.<br />
MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 57
FEATURES | GENEVA | MORZINE<br />
LATERAL<br />
THINKING<br />
LEAVE THE LIFT QUEUES BEHIND AND DISCOVER<br />
THE FREEDOM OF CROSS-COUNTRY SKIING<br />
58 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />
WILL HIDE
FEATURES | GENEVA | MORZINE<br />
MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 59
FEATURES | GENEVA | MORZINE<br />
THE SNOW LAY crisp and fresh, and there<br />
wasn’t a cloud in the sky. Only a weird,<br />
high-pitched yelling marred a perfect<br />
winter’s day in the Alps as I swooshed along<br />
a path lined with fi r trees. For a few blurry,<br />
disconnected seconds I couldn’t tell where<br />
this terrible sound was coming from. Then<br />
I realised the noise was me.<br />
Some may have called it the pathetic<br />
scream of a big girl’s blouse who, having hit<br />
a patch of ice, was actually speeding up<br />
rather than slowing down or stopping.<br />
I prefer to think of it as a manly whoop,<br />
designed to alert the elderly French<br />
60 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />
gentleman in front of me that his pleasant<br />
stroll was about to be rudely interrupted.<br />
And so it was that I found myself fl at on<br />
my backside calling out, “Je suis desolé,<br />
monsieur!” while said French gent, having<br />
dived into a bank of snow, picked himself<br />
up and dusted off the crust of powder that<br />
covered him from head to foot.<br />
We were in Morzine-Avoriaz, close to the<br />
point where France meets Switzerland near<br />
Geneva, to go cross-country skiing. If you<br />
imagine that this is a sport that’s all about<br />
effortless gliding along snowy trails, think<br />
again – there hadn’t been very much “cross”<br />
YOU CAN<br />
BE ALONE<br />
ON A TRAIL<br />
WHILE THE<br />
DOWNHILL<br />
PISTES ARE<br />
CROWDED<br />
to our day, and instead we’d covered lots of<br />
ups and downs. They don’t mention that in<br />
the brochures, but I was determined that the<br />
hills (and the ice patches) wouldn’t put me off.<br />
Cross-country skiing is a great way of<br />
shaking off that tired, lethargic feeling we all<br />
get after surviving the depressing greyness<br />
of January and February. And it makes for<br />
a fantastic workout too – would you rather be<br />
down your local gym at lunchtime watching<br />
sweaty Brian from accounts on the cross<br />
trainer, or out in the mountains under rich<br />
blue skies getting some proper exercise? It’s<br />
also a good way of cleaning out the mental<br />
cobwebs. There’s something clarifying about<br />
being in the mountains, like being able to<br />
breathe again after a heavy cold, and I fi nd it<br />
a great time to plan ahead and set fresh goals.<br />
On a more practical level, cross-country<br />
skiing beats downhill because the skis and<br />
boots you wear are much lighter than the<br />
clodhoppers you need if you want to be<br />
the next Bode Miller. But be warned – crosscountry<br />
skis are much narrower (just 5cm
PHOTOS © SELLER YAN, ALAMY, CORBIS, PHOTOLIBRARY (PREVIOUS SPREAD)<br />
wide) and they’re not clipped in at the heel,<br />
so they do take some getting used to.<br />
In the past I had only tried “classic”<br />
cross-country skiing – a kind of backwards/<br />
forwards shuffl e where your skis are set<br />
in tracks, which is generally easier for<br />
beginners to pick up but also relatively slow.<br />
This was my fi rst time trying the “skating”<br />
style – quicker but also requiring more<br />
physical effort, as you shift your weight<br />
from side to side like rollerblading each<br />
time you push off. It’s no wonder pro crosscountry<br />
skiers have thigh muscles the size<br />
of a small Balkan nation and form part of<br />
the tiny group of people who actually look<br />
good in brightly coloured Lycra.<br />
I, on the other hand, was wobbling along<br />
wishing I’d turned down that extra helping<br />
of sticky toffee pudding, and thinking that<br />
maybe a few laps around the park at home<br />
would have been a good idea before coming<br />
out here. I was having a lesson with local<br />
instructor François Petitjean and brother<br />
and sister Christian and Erika Rose from<br />
New York, who were over on holiday and<br />
taking a break from downhill.<br />
“What’s the most important thing to<br />
remember?” asked Petitjean as we hopped<br />
off the gondola in the Super Morzine area.<br />
“Looking cool?” I suggested, as a group<br />
of hip snowboarders clattered past.<br />
“Non,” came the deadpan reply. “It’s the<br />
snow plough.” Which, as I was to discover,<br />
was a very fair point.<br />
After our fi rst exercises, which seemed<br />
to mimic the waddle of a penguin, we<br />
were progressing quickly, though my lack<br />
of fi tness showed compared to my two<br />
FEATURES | GENEVA | MORZINE<br />
GOING THE<br />
DISTANCE<br />
➳ STRAP ON YOUR SKIS<br />
FOR EUROPE’S BIGGEST<br />
CROSS-COUNTRY SKI RACE<br />
Do you fancy yourself as a cross-country<br />
ski star? Or maybe just an enthusiastic<br />
amateur? Then head over to the woods<br />
near St Moritz in Switzerland this month<br />
for the race of the year. Thousands<br />
of people take part in the Engadin<br />
Skimarathon, one of the world’s biggest<br />
cross-country ski events, and this year’s<br />
takes place on 13 March.<br />
The competition began in 1969, and<br />
now more than 14,000 people from 35<br />
nations come together to complete<br />
the 42km course. As long as you’ve<br />
registered it’s open to all, so there’s a<br />
good mix of seasoned pros and newer<br />
skiers of all ages. A bonus is that the<br />
valley in which the race takes place is<br />
known for its good weather, with an<br />
average of 322 days of sunshine per year.<br />
All in all, it’s a great day out whether<br />
you’re taking part or just watching.<br />
engadin-skimarathon.ch<br />
MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 61
FEATURES | GENEVA | MORZINE<br />
CROSS-<br />
COUNTRY<br />
SKIERS<br />
DON’T NEED<br />
TO WAIT<br />
FOR LIFTS<br />
younger classmates, especially going uphill.<br />
In fact, if there had to be a low point of the<br />
day it came while being overtaken on<br />
a path by an arthritic Labrador as Erika<br />
and Christian scooted quickly upwards.<br />
By contrast, the high point was lunch on<br />
the sunny terrace of Chez Lenvers (Place<br />
Centrale, tel: +33 (0)4 5074 0130) in Avoriaz:<br />
a plate of tartifl ette (potatoes, cream, bacon<br />
and reblochon cheese) accompanied by<br />
a large, steaming glass of vin chaud.<br />
During the afternoon things started to<br />
click. There are almost 100km of crosscountry<br />
tracks in this area, so you really can<br />
62 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />
have the back country to yourself even when<br />
the pistes are crowded. And while ski and<br />
boot hire average a very reasonable €11 a day,<br />
you don’t even necessarily need a lift pass<br />
– Morzine’s network of free shuttle buses<br />
can drop you at the start of the best tracks,<br />
for example at the bottom of the Vallée de<br />
la Manche. Group lessons with the French<br />
Ski School (esf.net/en) start at €55 a day<br />
including lunch, so it makes an affordable<br />
option if you want to take a break from<br />
throwing yourself downhill.<br />
Over the next few days my style<br />
improved, although I didn’t see any overall<br />
hardening of my thigh muscles into the<br />
sort of shape that would send the female<br />
population of the Alps into a collective<br />
swoon. I will defi nitely be back next year to<br />
give myself a boost through the winter, but I<br />
think I’ll be returning to my favoured classic<br />
style rather than skating, which should at<br />
least allow elderly French gentlemen to enjoy<br />
their afternoon walk without the risk of<br />
serious bodily harm.<br />
Book at airporttransfers.easyjet.com<br />
for a 5% discount on your transfers<br />
easyJet flies to...<br />
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See our insider guide on page 136.<br />
Book online at easyJet.com<br />
PHOTOS © SELLER YAN
FEATURES | FARO<br />
FOR MOST PEOPLE who visit the<br />
Algarve, Faro is little more than an<br />
airport terminal. Each year tourists<br />
land, grab their bags and hurtle towards<br />
Portugal’s sun-soaked beach resorts<br />
without so much as a second thought for<br />
this charming medieval port. But if you’re<br />
prepared to go against the fl ow and do<br />
some exploring, you’ll discover a historic<br />
city with plenty to entertain sun-seekers<br />
on their way to or from the beach.<br />
Flying into the airport, you can’t<br />
help but notice the long line of highrise<br />
buildings that runs through the<br />
city. But don’t be put off – the Cidade<br />
64 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />
FARO FROM<br />
THECROWD<br />
OFTEN OVERLOOKED BY HOLIDAYMAKERS, THIS SMALL BUT<br />
COSMOPOLITAN PORT IS WAITING TO BE DISCOVERED<br />
STEVEN VICKERS<br />
Velha (Old Town) is picture-perfect,<br />
with its intricate buildings, ancient<br />
chapels and winding cobbled streets<br />
making it an ideal place to explore the<br />
city’s fascinating history. The Museu<br />
Arqueológico (Praça Afonso III, tel: +351<br />
289 897 400) is one of the oldest and<br />
most beautiful cultural institutions<br />
in Portugal. Nestled in a domed 16thcentury<br />
convent, it’s home to a peaceful<br />
cloister and, in a nod to Faro’s maritime<br />
history, a remarkable Roman mosaic<br />
depicting Neptune, the god of water.<br />
Incredibly, it was only uncovered in<br />
1976 during restoration work.<br />
Another relic of old Faro is the Sé,<br />
or cathedral, its unlikely mishmash of<br />
gothic, baroque and renaissance styles<br />
telling the story of the city’s past. The<br />
Great Earthquake of 1755 left much<br />
of the original 13th-century structure<br />
in ruins, and the other sections were<br />
simply added over time, resulting in an<br />
unusual building that was never part<br />
of any architect’s plan. The best way<br />
to appreciate it today is by following<br />
the scent of chocolatey, freshly roasted<br />
coffee beans into the sun-dappled Largo<br />
da Sé, a broad, cobbled plaza that’s<br />
lined with rows of fragrant orange trees.
PHOTO © 4CORNERS<br />
Sipping an espresso in a shady corner of<br />
the square, you can properly take in the<br />
half-whitewashed building and ponder<br />
the city’s lucky escape.<br />
Unlike many other towns in the<br />
Algarve, Faro wasn’t too badly damaged<br />
by the earthquake, and it escaped<br />
the ensuing tsunami thanks to the<br />
vast swathes of sand and mud that<br />
protected it from the sea. The natural<br />
sand barriers that stand between Faro<br />
and the Atlantic are still around, and<br />
from spring onwards locals go down<br />
there to swim, sunbathe and unwind.<br />
The most popular, and the only one<br />
you can drive to directly, is Praia de<br />
Faro, a huge spit of golden-yellow sand<br />
that’s bounded by gentle waves on one<br />
side and a tranquil blue lagoon on the<br />
other. Stop in at Camané (tel: +351 289<br />
817 539), an intimate little gourmet<br />
restaurant that sits next to the beach,<br />
to enjoy specialities such as rice with<br />
razor clams and a magnifi cent lobster<br />
stew. The food is fi t for a king – and not<br />
just metaphorically either – the Spanish<br />
monarch is one of a growing list of<br />
celebrities who’ve dined here.<br />
If you want to get even further away<br />
from the crowds, head to the Porta<br />
FEATURES | FARO<br />
Nova pier. From here you can take<br />
a ferry across to the sublime Ilha<br />
Deserta (ilha-deserta.com), part of the<br />
breathtakingly beautiful Ria Formosa<br />
National Park. The most southerly island<br />
off Portugal’s mainland, this deserted<br />
haven stretches for almost 10km, with<br />
little more for visitors to do than enjoy<br />
a leisurely stroll along the boardwalk,<br />
languish in the sun, or watch the local<br />
birdlife – including fl amingos and terns<br />
– from the pristine beaches. If you go<br />
now before the summer rush you’re likely<br />
to have the whole island to yourself. Take<br />
a picnic or eat at the eco-friendly<br />
MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 65
FEATURES | FARO<br />
O Estaminé restaurant (tel: +351 917 811<br />
856) – it’s the only one on the island, and<br />
the chef creates some of the freshest fi sh<br />
dishes you’ll ever taste from his solarpowered<br />
kitchen.<br />
Back in Faro, the food is just as<br />
inspiring. The locals are serious about<br />
eating, and there are countless familyrun<br />
restaurants hugging the edges of the<br />
twisting pedestrian streets. Uphill from the<br />
marina, great icy cabinets of freshly caught<br />
seafood reel people into one of Faro’s oldest<br />
and best. Adega Dois Irmãos (14 Largo<br />
Terreiro do Bispo, tel: +351 289 823 337)<br />
was opened by two brothers (the dois<br />
irmãos) in 1925, and it was serving hearty<br />
local dishes long before mass-market<br />
tourism hit the Algarve.<br />
Another distinctive – but very different<br />
– fl avour of the region comes from Faro’s<br />
deliciously sweet cakes and pastries. The<br />
city has a huge selection of sweet-smelling<br />
pastelarias selling pastéis de nata (custard<br />
tarts), bolos (small cakes) and many other<br />
66 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />
naughty treats. Gardy (16 Rua de Santo<br />
Antonio, tel: +351 289 824 062) is widely<br />
regarded as one of the best – choose your<br />
pastry at the glass counter before taking<br />
a seat at one of the tables sprawled along<br />
the pavement to enjoy your food.<br />
ONCE FED AND CAFFEINATED you’ll be<br />
ready to set out again, and as you wander<br />
through the city you won’t fail to notice<br />
the bold blue-and-white azulejo tiles<br />
decorating the buildings. Apparently<br />
these glazed tiles were fi rst introduced to<br />
Portugal by the Moors, who believed in the<br />
notion of horror vacui – quite literally, the<br />
fear of empty spaces. As a result, churches<br />
across Portugal were transformed into<br />
ornate and elegant patchworks covered<br />
with elaborate tiled designs. Seek out the<br />
Igreja de São Francisco on Largo de São<br />
Francisco, a 17th-century church in the<br />
Old Town, and marvel at the mesmerising<br />
panels that cover its walls, depicting the<br />
life of St Francis.<br />
Clockwise from left,<br />
Portuguese-style fried<br />
sardines, the Museu<br />
Arqueológico, Largo da<br />
Sé and the cathedral,<br />
Faro’s tranquil marina.<br />
Previous page, the Ria<br />
Formosa lagoon<br />
Today many of these beautiful buildings<br />
have been put to new uses, so they aren’t<br />
just for looking at. An even older church,<br />
the tiny 16th-century Italianate Jesuit<br />
Colégio de Santiago Maior, was stripped<br />
of its original interior and reopened as<br />
a theatre in 1843. The Teatro Lethes, as it’s<br />
now known (59 Rua de Portugal, tel: +351<br />
289 820 300), has gained a reputation as<br />
Faro’s cultural hotspot, offering a varied<br />
programme that covers everything from<br />
children’s shows to dance festivals.<br />
It only takes a few days to uncover Faro’s<br />
treasures, but this compact, sophisticated<br />
city packs a punch. As appealing as it might<br />
be to head straight for the beach, Faro<br />
offers a rare chance to soak up the sights,<br />
smells and sounds of old Portugal<br />
– try it and you won’t be disappointed.<br />
easyJet flies to...<br />
Faro from eight destinations.<br />
See our insider guide on page 134.<br />
Book online at easyJet.com<br />
PHOTOS © ALAMY, 4CORNERS, CORBIS
IN<br />
SEARCH<br />
OF<br />
AFRICA<br />
EXPLORE BEYOND<br />
THE SOUKS AND YOU’LL<br />
FIND THE REAL MARRAKECH –<br />
SMART, INTERNATIONAL<br />
AND REFRESHINGLY FREE<br />
FROM TOURISTS<br />
TAHIR SHAH PAUL FARNHAM
Gare de Marrakech,<br />
Avenue Mohammed VI<br />
Jacket (£840) from<br />
Alexander McQueen at<br />
Matches; white T-shirt<br />
(£69) from 3.1 Philip Lim<br />
at my-wardrobe.com;<br />
slim leg trousers (£135)<br />
from DKNY; boots<br />
(£325) from Timberland;<br />
sunglasses (£120) from<br />
Ray-Ban at Sunglass<br />
Hut; scarf (£125) from<br />
Paul Smith; bag (£120)<br />
from Dunhill
FEATURES | MARRAKECH<br />
PLAYED OUT AGAINST a backdrop of<br />
vibrant cultural colour, the late Marrakech<br />
afternoon is like nothing else on earth. The<br />
souks are packed with bargains and bustle;<br />
the people cloaked in hooded djellaba<br />
robes. Bundles of wool carpets from the<br />
High Atlas mountains are stacked up next<br />
to dazzling brass trays inscribed with the<br />
names of God, baskets of dried damask<br />
roses and mounds of pungent incense<br />
and antimony, and the endless shops are<br />
crammed with treasures from the remotest<br />
reaches of the desert.<br />
70 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />
This is the Marrakech that lures<br />
countless visitors each year; the city of<br />
snake charmers, the crème de la crème<br />
of the exotic East. It’s irresistible and<br />
enchanting, a realm that bewitches all<br />
of those who set eyes upon it.<br />
But if you can extract yourself from<br />
the labyrinthine medina there’s another<br />
Marrakech to be found. Elusive, yet equally<br />
alluring, it was laid out during the French<br />
Occupation and is called Guéliz. This new<br />
town is misunderstood by most visitors,<br />
who take it at face value. But dig down<br />
below the surface and the rewards – both in<br />
terms of culture and style – are astonishing.<br />
By obsessing over the old medina, many<br />
visitors miss out entirely on the hip new<br />
face of the Pink City. A wild mix of galleries,<br />
restaurants, bars and boutiques, Guéliz<br />
attracts the big names in couture. And for<br />
every Jean Paul Gautier and Yves Saint<br />
Laurent there are dozens of others – some<br />
Moroccan, some from elsewhere – whose<br />
work is touched by the desert magic.<br />
Take a left off Avenue Mohammed V<br />
down a slim alleyway, and you come
Gare de Marrakech,<br />
Avenue Mohammed VI<br />
LEFT & RIGHT<br />
Linen jacket (£160) from<br />
Howick at House of Fraser;<br />
shirt (£140) from Zadig &<br />
Voltaire; trousers (£90)<br />
from Howick at House of<br />
Fraser; sunglasses (£120)<br />
from Ray-Ban at Sunglass<br />
Hut; scarf (£135) from<br />
Paul Smith; satchel<br />
(£155) from Browns; belt<br />
(£28) from Howick at<br />
House of Fraser<br />
BELOW<br />
Jacket (£299) from<br />
Jaeger; polo top (£85)<br />
from Marc by Marc Jacobs<br />
at my-wardrobe.com;<br />
stone chinos (£75) from<br />
Dockers at my-wardrobe.<br />
com; boots (£185) from<br />
YMC; sunglasses (£120)<br />
from Ray-Ban at Sunglass<br />
Hut; scarf (stylist’s own);<br />
bracelets (£150 each)<br />
from Tateossian at<br />
House of Fraser
FEATURES | MARRAKECH<br />
across a cluster of understated galleries<br />
and boutiques. Among them is the atelier<br />
of a British-born Moroccan known to all<br />
as Yahya (61 Rue de Yougoslavie, Passage<br />
Ghandouri, Magazin 49-50, tel: +212<br />
(0)524 422 776), whose brass appliqué<br />
lamps hang in palaces and pleasure<br />
domes the world over. Self-effacing, with<br />
an unmatched eye for detail, Yahya<br />
continues the tradition of artistry for which<br />
Morocco has been known for centuries.<br />
Next door is the gallery of designer<br />
Kenza Melehi (61 Rue de Yougoslavie,<br />
Passage Ghandouri, Magazin 41, tel:<br />
+212 (0)524 422 641), whose kaftans<br />
– worn by royalty and style icons alike<br />
– are works of art in their own right.<br />
Fashioned in dazzling colours and lavish<br />
textiles, Melehi’s work is infl uenced by<br />
a lifetime of travel, her haute couture<br />
crafted with the same mesmerising<br />
detail as Yahya’s lamps.<br />
72 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />
A stone’s throw away, on Avenue<br />
Mohammed V, is another emporium of<br />
excellence: Place Vendôme (141 Avenue<br />
Mohammed V, tel: +212 (0)524 435 263).<br />
A treasure trove of leatherwork, it also taps<br />
into the traditional know-how of Moroccan<br />
master craftsmen, selling saddles, belts<br />
and suede jackets of extremely high quality.<br />
Continue on to Rue de la Liberté and you’ll<br />
come across Atika Chaussures (34 Rue de<br />
la Liberté, tel: +212 (0)524 436 409), a tiny<br />
store that sells the kind of suede driving<br />
shoes popularised by Tod’s, but for a<br />
fraction of the price.<br />
TO PROPERLY APPRECIATE Guéliz it’s<br />
important to seek out the local’s eye view.<br />
Café du Livre (44 Rue Tarik ibn Ziad, tel:<br />
+212 (0)524 432 149) is the ideal place to<br />
start. A bookshop and café tucked away<br />
in the courtyard of Hotel Toulousain,<br />
behind the site of the old market, its
Intersection Avenue<br />
Mohammed V and Rue<br />
de la Koutoubia<br />
FAR LEFT & RIGHT<br />
Pink striped shirt (£165)<br />
from John Varvatos at<br />
Matches; white T-shirt<br />
(£17) from American<br />
Apparel; khaki shorts<br />
(£135) from DKNY;<br />
espadrilles (£40) from<br />
Kurt Geiger; hat (£135)<br />
from Lock & Co Hatters;<br />
sunglasses (£190) from<br />
Persol at Sunglass Hut;<br />
scarf (£36) from Ted<br />
Baker at House of Fraser;<br />
bracelets (£150 each)<br />
from Tateossian at House<br />
of Fraser<br />
LEFT & BELOW<br />
Blue checked shortsleeved<br />
shirt (£178)<br />
from Dolce & Gabbana<br />
at Matches; blue jersey<br />
T-shirt (£52) from Acne<br />
at my-wardrobe.com;<br />
white shorts (£129)<br />
from DKNY; boots (£185)<br />
from YMC; sunglasses<br />
(£230) from Persol at<br />
Sunglass Hut; scarf<br />
(£140) from Jil Sander at<br />
Browns; bag (£360) from<br />
Jaeger; watch (£180)<br />
from Luke 1977
FEATURES | MARRAKECH<br />
appeal runs far beyond the shelves of used<br />
books and free Wi-Fi. This is a place where<br />
you can slip into local life, relaxing into the<br />
rhythm of the neighbourhood.<br />
Another excellent place to watch<br />
Guéliz life go by is the legendary Café les<br />
Négociants (Avenue Mohammed V, tel:<br />
+212 (0)524 435 782). A pavement eatery<br />
par excellence, it stands at the heart of the<br />
district and serves glasses of tar-like café<br />
noir. Sit there for half an hour and waves<br />
of street sellers, shoe cleaners and<br />
mendicants weave between the tables,<br />
gently vying for your attention.<br />
But Guéliz isn’t just for the casual<br />
consumer. Over the past decade, it has<br />
erupted on to the style scene, and boasts<br />
74 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />
galleries, bars and restaurants that would<br />
be the talk of the town even if they were in<br />
London, New York or Shanghai. Eclectic<br />
and modern, Gallerie Rê (Résidence Al<br />
Andalous III, Angle Rues de la Mosquée<br />
et Ibn Toumert no 3, galeriere.com) is<br />
patronised by art lovers from Morocco<br />
and beyond. An invitation to one of its<br />
viewings is as sought after as one of Willy<br />
Wonka’s golden tickets, and it’s a sure place<br />
to rub shoulders with fashionable locals<br />
and the international jet-set.<br />
One of the fi nest places to dine is<br />
the Table du Marché (4 rue de Temple<br />
Hivernage, tel: +212 (0)524 424 100), where<br />
chef Christophe Leroy conjures magic with<br />
local produce found, as the name would<br />
suggest, in Marrakech’s markets. Another<br />
gem, the Grand Café de la Poste (Boulevard<br />
El Mansour Eddahbi, tel: +212 (0)524<br />
433 038), is a local favourite and offers<br />
extraordinarily stylish cuisine with prices<br />
that won’t break the bank.<br />
After dinner, there’s no shortage of<br />
places to drink and dance. The Yellow Sub<br />
(82 Avenue Hassan II, tel: +212 (0)672 569<br />
864) attracts the international crowd with<br />
its Beatles-inspired psychedelia, while Jad<br />
Mahal (10 Rue Haroune Erracid, tel: +212<br />
(0)524 436 984) offers a fusion of exotic<br />
Moroccan and Indian styles. The crosscultural<br />
entertainment continues at Le<br />
Comptoir Darna (Avenue Echouhada,<br />
tel: +212 (0)524 437 702), with
Left and below left,<br />
Café les Négociants;<br />
below, Avenue<br />
Mohammed V; opposite,<br />
Patisserie Hilton,<br />
Rue de Yougoslavie<br />
THIS SPREAD<br />
Light grey jacket (£299)<br />
from Without Prejudice<br />
at House of Fraser; grey<br />
striped shirt (£175) from<br />
Marc by Marc Jacobs<br />
at my-wardrobe.com;<br />
stone chinos (£75) from<br />
Dockers at my-wardrobe.<br />
com; espadrilles (£40)<br />
from Kurt Geiger; hat<br />
(£135) from Lock & Co<br />
Hatters; sunglasses<br />
(£190) from Persol at<br />
Sunglass Hut
This page and below,<br />
Rue de Yves St Laurent;<br />
opposite, Jardin Majorelle;<br />
far right, Rue Moulay Ali<br />
LEFT & BELOW<br />
Navy jacket (£100) from<br />
Luke 1977; white polo<br />
(£59) from Hugo Boss<br />
Black at my-wardrobe.<br />
com; navy chinos (£85)<br />
from Polo Ralph Lauren<br />
at my-wardrobe.com;<br />
sunglasses (£106) from<br />
DKNY at Sunglass Hut;<br />
scarf (£165) from<br />
Gucci at Matches;<br />
belt (model’s own)<br />
OPPOSITE<br />
Grey jumper (£280)<br />
from YSL at Matches;<br />
white chino shorts (£75)<br />
from Jaeger; loafers<br />
(£245) from Car Shoes<br />
at Matches; sunglasses<br />
(£120) from Ray-Ban at<br />
Sunglass Hut; pocket<br />
square worn around neck<br />
(£39) from Thomas Pink<br />
FAR RIGHT<br />
Cream linen jacket<br />
(£550) from Paul Smith<br />
at House of Fraser; white<br />
T-shirt (£60) from Acne<br />
at my-wardrobe.com;<br />
white trousers (£99) from<br />
Jaeger; vintage boots<br />
(£325) from Timberland;<br />
sunglasses (£106) from<br />
DKNY at Sunglass Hut;<br />
pocket square worn<br />
around neck (£29) from<br />
Thomas Pink; watch<br />
(£429) from Victorinox<br />
PHOTOGRAPHY<br />
Paul Farnham<br />
STYLING<br />
Wendy Tee<br />
ART DIRECTOR<br />
Neil Smith<br />
PRODUCTION<br />
Amy Dennis<br />
MODEL<br />
Adrian Allen<br />
fmmodelagency.com<br />
STOCKISTS<br />
americanapparel.com<br />
brownsfashion.com<br />
dkny.donnakaran.com<br />
dunhill.com<br />
houseoff raser.co.uk<br />
jaeger.co.uk<br />
kurtgeiger.com<br />
lockhatters.co.uk<br />
luke1977.com<br />
matchesfashion.com<br />
my-wardrobe.com<br />
paulsmith.co.uk<br />
sunglasshut.co.uk<br />
thomaspink.com<br />
timberland.com<br />
victorinox.com<br />
youmustcreate.com<br />
zadig-et-voltaire.com<br />
SPECIAL THANKS<br />
Gatwick Express
lounge bars, secluded patios and dance<br />
extravaganzas blending the best of<br />
Marrakech and Paris.<br />
As the fi rst rays of dawn light break<br />
across the desert horizon, where better<br />
to rest your head than in one of the<br />
new town’s iconic hotels? The jewel in<br />
the crown when it comes to superlative<br />
Marrakech hospitality is La Mamounia<br />
(Avenue Bab Jdid, tel: +212 (0)524 388<br />
600, mamounia.com). Recently reopened<br />
after renovation, it was here that Winston<br />
Churchill brought President Roosevelt to<br />
paint during World War II, and it’s still<br />
the best place in town to spot celebrities,<br />
whether they’re reclining by the pool or<br />
browsing its chic boutiques.<br />
To stay in the heart of Guéliz, take<br />
a room in Hotel La Renaissance (89<br />
Boulevard Zerktouni, tel: +212 (0)524<br />
FEATURES | MARRAKECH<br />
337 777). Just across from Négociants,<br />
it makes for a fantastically central base<br />
and offers wonderful views of the city<br />
– its Mediterranean restaurant boasts<br />
spectacular vistas across the rooftops<br />
to the High Atlas mountains beyond,<br />
and the bar is the highest in Marrakech.<br />
In a world opened up by air travel,<br />
Marrakech is far more than just another<br />
name on an airport departures board.<br />
It’s a city of interwoven layers that are<br />
testament to the centuries of travellers<br />
who have passed through. And as your<br />
plane ascends into the cobalt-blue sky, the<br />
only question is when you’ll be back again.<br />
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MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 77
DIRECTORY | MARRAKECH
FEATURES | ZURICH<br />
WITH ITS IDYLLIC<br />
lakeside setting, fl awless<br />
public transport and<br />
well-paid workforce, Zürich<br />
is regularly named the best<br />
place in the world to live.<br />
Analysts comb through millions of<br />
pieces of data on crime, employment,<br />
green spaces and more, and consistently<br />
fi nd Switzerland’s biggest city at the top<br />
of the ratings.<br />
All of which makes it sound very<br />
boring. But it’s not. A formerly downat-heel<br />
industrial area called Zürich<br />
West – only a few blocks from the<br />
quaint Old Town but divided from it by<br />
the main railway line – has been turned<br />
into a world capital of contemporary<br />
art. Galleries started moving into<br />
and around an old brewery building<br />
called the Löwenbräu in the 1990s,<br />
and now the area is buzzing with bars,<br />
restaurants and desirable apartments.<br />
The New York Times has compared<br />
the area to East Berlin or London’s<br />
Shoreditch, and as word spreads, Zürich<br />
is becoming renowned as one of the<br />
world’s great art cities.<br />
The scene has grown organically<br />
over the past 20 or so years, but it’s<br />
about to receive a major boost thanks<br />
to the renovation of the Löwenbräu,<br />
which will add major new gallery<br />
spaces and residential apartments<br />
when it reopens in 2012. As Zürich<br />
prepares to enter the next stage of its<br />
artistic development, we caught up<br />
with some of the city’s most important<br />
gallery owners to fi nd out why the city<br />
is becoming just as famous for its art<br />
as it is for its banks.<br />
80 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />
SHOOTING<br />
GALLERIES<br />
THE REGENERATION<br />
LEE CHESHIRE VÉRONIQUE HOEGGER<br />
OF A RUN-DOWN<br />
INDUSTRIAL AREA IS<br />
TURNING ZURICH<br />
INTO ONE OF THE<br />
WORLD’S FOREMOST<br />
CENTRES FOR<br />
CONTEMPORARY ART
FEATURES | ZURICH<br />
➳ BEATRIX RUF<br />
DIRECTOR, KUNSTHALLE ZURICH<br />
“I’m so looking forward to moving<br />
back to the Löwenbräu. We moved out<br />
for a couple of years while it was being<br />
renovated and extended, but when<br />
we go back we’ll have new exhibition<br />
spaces, a bookshop and better offi ces.<br />
It will be a long-term home for the<br />
arts. My original plan for while we<br />
were homeless was to show work in<br />
temporary spaces around Zürich,<br />
but the city found us an abandoned<br />
museum. Our fi rst exhibition opened<br />
in January and we’ll be here until next<br />
year. All the redevelopment in Zürich<br />
West is moving the centre of the city –<br />
for a long time Zürich has been seen as<br />
an international but moderately sized<br />
place. These changes will make it feel<br />
more like a big city.”<br />
➳ AFTER THE ART... “My old favourite<br />
– now everybody’s favourite – is the<br />
Kronenhalle restaurant (4 Rämistrasse,<br />
tel: +41 (0)44 262 9900). It has original<br />
artworks by Picasso and Chagall<br />
hanging on the walls, and when<br />
smoking was banned in Zürich last year<br />
they opened up a fumoir on the fi rst<br />
fl oor. That’s where we all hang out.”<br />
Kunsthalle Zürich, currently<br />
at Museum Bärengasse, 20-22<br />
Bärengasse, tel: +41 (0)44 272 1515,<br />
kunsthallezurich.ch<br />
MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 81
FEATURES | ZURICH<br />
“YOU CAN’T<br />
COMPARE<br />
ZURICH TO<br />
PLACES LIKE<br />
LONDON<br />
OR BERLIN –<br />
IT’S A MUCH<br />
SMALLER CITY”<br />
➳ PETER KILCHMANN<br />
FOUNDER, GALERIE PETER KILCHMANN<br />
“The move to our new gallery is going<br />
very well – everything is coming<br />
together and it will open on 15 April.<br />
It’s in a converted industrial building<br />
in a district called Maag Areal, not far<br />
from the Löwenbräu building, where<br />
we were before. They used to make big<br />
screws here for ships – it’s one of only<br />
two buildings that remain, so it’s listed.<br />
It’s in a modernist Bauhaus style, and<br />
slightly curved.<br />
“When we moved to Zürich West<br />
more than 15 years ago it was very run<br />
down, and lots of the shops were closed.<br />
It was in a diffi cult situation at the<br />
beginning of the 1990s. The authorities<br />
legalised drugs in a part of Zürich,<br />
and addicts from all over Switzerland<br />
came to the area. But in the mid-1990s,<br />
the music scene and party scene took<br />
over. The Löwenbräu opened, and that<br />
brought the art galleries here. People<br />
realised it was a really central area that<br />
had been neglected.”<br />
➳ AFTER THE ART... “The place where<br />
all the artists go to hang out is Café<br />
Odeon (2 Limmatquai, tel: +41 (0)44<br />
251 1650) – it’s quite stylish, with art-<br />
nouveau decoration and unusual large<br />
red banquettes.”<br />
Galerie Peter Kilchmann, Diagonal<br />
Building, 21 Zahnradstrasse, tel: +41<br />
(0)44 278 1010, peterkilchmann.com<br />
82 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11
➳ FLORIAN BERKTOLD<br />
DIRECTOR, HAUSER & WIRTH ZURICH<br />
“Despite having galleries in London and<br />
New York, Hauser & Wirth still feels very<br />
much a Zürich-based organisation. Much<br />
of our identity comes from our Zürich<br />
roots. When we started in the 1990s, it was<br />
a very exciting time here. You can’t compare<br />
Zürich to places like London or Berlin – it’s<br />
a much smaller city. A lot of the attraction<br />
is what is offered here: the beautiful setting<br />
by the river, the lively bars and restaurants.<br />
“When the Löwenbräu reopens next<br />
year, it will be much improved. In the<br />
meantime we have moved to Hubertus<br />
Exhibitions, in a residential area just across<br />
the railway tracks from Zürich West, along<br />
FEATURES | ZURICH<br />
with the Migros Museum and the Bob van<br />
Orsouw gallery. We wanted to stay together<br />
and not disperse across the city. We wanted<br />
to keep the energy, which is the unique<br />
thing that came from being in the brewery.”<br />
➳ AFTER THE ART... “A fun place to go<br />
is the Helsinki Klub (35 Geroldstrasse).<br />
There are live bands there every weekend<br />
and it’s a great place to hang out and have<br />
a drink. It’s a stone’s throw from the<br />
railway, right by the tracks.”<br />
Hauser & Wirth Zürich, Hubertus<br />
Exhibitions, 199a Albisreiderstrasse,<br />
tel: +41 (0)44 446 8050, hauserwirth.com<br />
MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 83
FEATURES | ZURICH<br />
84 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />
➳ NICOLA VON SENGER<br />
FOUNDER, GALERIE NICOLA VON SENGER<br />
“I started my gallery 22 years ago.<br />
I’m originally from Zürich and I was<br />
fascinated by a gallery owner called Bruno<br />
Bischofberger, who showed work from<br />
people such as Andy Warhol. He impressed<br />
me so much that I decided to go to London<br />
to study at Sotheby’s.<br />
“We’ve moved around. For a long time<br />
we were in the nice part of Zürich, but we<br />
thought it was important to be where all<br />
the other exhibitions are – to be part of the<br />
synergy. It’s good for visitors to come and<br />
see two or three museums and galleries in<br />
one place. Here in Zürich we have more<br />
galleries per person than any other city<br />
in the world. That means there is strong<br />
competition between us, which helps keep<br />
the quality high.”<br />
“IN ZURICH<br />
WE HAVE MORE<br />
GALLERIES<br />
PER PERSON<br />
THAN ANY<br />
OTHER CITY<br />
IN THE<br />
WORLD”<br />
➳ AFTER THE ART... “One of my favourite<br />
places is a church called Grossmünster<br />
(Zwingliplatz), which has two towers you<br />
can climb up for a fantastic view of our<br />
cute city. The lake is also worth visiting.<br />
There is a place called Utoquai down by the<br />
lake, where Helmut Newton did a lot of his<br />
work. You feel like you’ve walked into one of<br />
his photographs.”<br />
Galerie Nicola von Senger, 275<br />
Limmatstrasse, tel: +41 (0)44 201 8810,<br />
nicolavonsenger.com<br />
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See our insider guide on page 180.<br />
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BUSINESS | ENERGY<br />
86 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11
THIS YEAR SPAIN WILL BECOME<br />
THE WORLD’S BIGGEST<br />
PRODUCER OF SOLAR THERMAL<br />
ENERGY, LEADING THE WAY<br />
TO A MORE EFFECTIVE FUTURE<br />
BUSINESS | ENERGY<br />
FOR RENEWABLE POWER<br />
SOLAR<br />
FLAIR<br />
GEOFF NAIRN<br />
ANDREW DUKE<br />
MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 87
BUSINESS | ENERGY<br />
Right, Andasol 3<br />
occupies a surface<br />
area of 1,500km 2<br />
IT’S NOT JUST TOURISTS who can’t get<br />
enough of southern Spain’s year-round sun.<br />
Europe’s leading energy and construction<br />
companies are keen to stake a claim in<br />
Spain’s fast-growing solar thermal energy<br />
market, which has overtaken the US to<br />
become the world’s largest.<br />
Mention solar power and most people<br />
think of photovoltaic (PV) panels, which<br />
convert light directly into electricity using<br />
silicon cells. But solar thermal energy<br />
is different, and represents a relatively<br />
untapped renewable source – at least<br />
in Europe. Solar thermal energy plants<br />
88 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />
use mirrors to concentrate sunlight and<br />
generate heat, which is then used to<br />
produce electricity from a turbine just<br />
like in a conventional power station.<br />
Thanks to generous subsidies, PV panels<br />
are a common sight on rooftops and in<br />
so-called solar farms – and not just in sunny<br />
Spain. In fact in 2009 Germany overtook<br />
Spain to become the world’s biggest PV<br />
market. But the big problem with PV panels<br />
is that they produce little electricity on cloudy<br />
days – and none at night.<br />
In contrast, solar thermal plants have<br />
built-in storage so they can keep producing<br />
electricity when clouds block the sun and<br />
at night. And, unlike wind energy, which<br />
has grown to be Spain’s third-largest power<br />
source, solar thermal plants can store energy<br />
that isn’t immediately used, feeding it into<br />
the grid when needed. That makes solar<br />
thermal energy a more fl exible alternative to<br />
other renewable energy sources, even though<br />
it is currently more costly.<br />
“The grid operators like solar thermal<br />
power far more than PV or wind power,” says<br />
Paul Coffey, chief operating offi cer of RWE<br />
Innogy, the renewables division of German<br />
energy giant RWE. Utilities are warming
to solar thermal plants because, both on<br />
the balance sheet and on the ground, they<br />
perform much like conventional power<br />
plants. But the costs of building these<br />
plants are steep – around €300m for<br />
a 50MW plant – so it makes sense that<br />
investors are keen to get the best energy<br />
return by positioning solar thermal plants<br />
in southern Europe, where the sun’s rays<br />
are hottest and cloudy days are rare.<br />
ONE SUCH SITE is the Tabernas desert<br />
near Almería, an area that Sergio Leone<br />
fans will recognise as the location for<br />
“ON A GOOD<br />
DAY, SOLAR<br />
THERMAL<br />
CAN DELIVER<br />
DOUBLE THE<br />
POWER OF<br />
A PV PLANT”<br />
several of his spaghetti westerns. But<br />
the cowboys have moved on, and today<br />
Tabernas is home to the Plataforma<br />
Solar de Almería, a Spanish-German<br />
solar energy research facility set up in<br />
the 1980s. Over 20,000m 2 of mirrors<br />
are installed on its 100-acre site and<br />
there’s a huge solar furnace that would<br />
do a James Bond movie proud.<br />
Just an hour’s drive inland from<br />
Tabernas is the equally futuristic<br />
Andasol complex, its 600,000 mirrors<br />
glinting in the sun. Occupying a surface<br />
area of 1,500km 2 – the equivalent of<br />
BUSINESS | ENERGY<br />
BIG ON<br />
RENEWABLES<br />
As governments look for cost-eff ective<br />
alternatives to fossil fuels and nuclear,<br />
Europe’s renewable energy projects are<br />
getting increasingly ambitious…<br />
➳ ITALY<br />
The largest photovoltaic solar plant<br />
operating in Europe is at Montalto di<br />
Castro, 90km outside Rome. The<br />
85MW plant was built in four phases,<br />
with the fi nal two completed in<br />
December 2010.<br />
➳ GERMANY<br />
It’s not as sunny as Spain or Italy, but<br />
Germany is home to Europe’s secondlargest<br />
PV plant. It is at Finsterwalde in<br />
the eastern state of Brandenberg, and<br />
this three-phase facility has a combined<br />
capacity of 81MW.<br />
➳ UK<br />
Scotland has Europe’s largest onshore<br />
wind farm. The 140 turbines currently<br />
working at Whitelee Wind Farm in East<br />
Renfrewshire generate 322MW. Another<br />
75 turbines are to be added by 2012,<br />
taking the expanded capacity to 539MW.<br />
➳ UK<br />
Gwynt y Môr is Europe’s largest off shore<br />
wind farm project, although it is still<br />
under construction 18km off the North<br />
Wales coast. When completed in 2014<br />
it will produce 580MW. In 2020, the<br />
off shore wind prize will pass to the<br />
Dogger Bank project, which will<br />
produce 9,000MW of wind power<br />
from a sandbank 200km off the<br />
east coast of England.<br />
➳ NORTH AFRICA<br />
By far the biggest renewable energy<br />
project conceived in Europe is Desertec,<br />
a hugely ambitious initiative to source<br />
15% of Europe’s electricity from solar<br />
energy plants scattered across the<br />
Sahara by 2050, transmitting the energy<br />
to Europe via undersea cables. The<br />
€400bn project is still at the planning<br />
stage and faces formidable technical<br />
and political obstacles.<br />
MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 89
BUSINESS | ENERGY<br />
210 football pitches – Andasol will become<br />
Europe’s largest commercial solar energy<br />
site when its third and fi nal plant, Andasol<br />
3, starts operating this year. Around<br />
500 workers helped construct Andasol 3,<br />
and 50 permanent jobs will be created<br />
when its turbines start spinning this year.<br />
That’s good news for the local economy –<br />
the Andalucía region has one of the highest<br />
unemployment rates in Spain.<br />
The science behind these costly plants<br />
is deceptively simple. More than 80km of<br />
trough-like mirrors arranged in 300 rows<br />
focus the sun’s rays on to horizontal tubes,<br />
through which a special fl uid circulates.<br />
The fl uid heats to 400°C and then passes<br />
through a heat exchanger to generate steam.<br />
As in a traditional power plant, the steam<br />
drives a turbine and generates the electricity.<br />
If too much heat is produced, the excess is<br />
used to heat liquid salts in storage tanks.<br />
This stored heat can then be fed back into<br />
the system when it’s cloudy or at night.<br />
“Theoretically, we can run the plant for<br />
24 hours a day during the summer,” says<br />
Frank Dinter, RWE Innogy’s head of solar<br />
power. It will probably only run from 8am<br />
to 12pm as that’s when electricity prices are<br />
highest, but it’s this ability to programme<br />
Andasol’s output like a conventional power<br />
plant that is one of the key attractions of<br />
solar thermal energy. Another is the greater<br />
effi ciency of a solar thermal plant: “On<br />
a good day, solar thermal can deliver more<br />
90 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />
“THE PLANT<br />
CAN RUN 24<br />
HOURS A DAY”<br />
than double the electricity of a PV plant [of<br />
the same size],” argues Dinter. “That’s why<br />
we decided to stop developing PV plants.”<br />
SPAIN IS CLEARLY serious about solar<br />
thermal power. Of all the EU member<br />
states it is the most enthusiastic in<br />
supporting the technology, and while the<br />
country’s deep economic crisis recently<br />
forced the government to reduce the<br />
massive subsidies previously paid to<br />
renewable energy producers, the solar<br />
thermal sector escaped lightly. Indeed,<br />
the loudest howls of protest have come<br />
from private investors who put their<br />
money into huertas solares – solar farms<br />
that use ground-mounted PV panels.<br />
Left, Andasol 3 uses<br />
80km of troughshaped<br />
mirrors to<br />
turn sunshine into<br />
clean, storable energy<br />
These projects were promoted as getrich-quick<br />
schemes in local newspapers,<br />
but now face tariff cuts of up to 45%,<br />
while wind energy has also had its wings<br />
clipped by 35% cuts on the price of windgenerated<br />
electricity, according to Spain’s<br />
revised renewable energy law.<br />
In fact, the new law has brought clarity<br />
– and a fresh sense of urgency – to solar<br />
thermal projects still on the drawing board.<br />
That’s because the law guarantees them<br />
generous tariffs for 25 years that cannot<br />
be retroactively reduced. Based on projects<br />
that have been approved, industry trade<br />
body Protermosolar predicts that by 2013<br />
Spain will have 60 solar thermal plants<br />
generating a combined 2,500MW of power.<br />
But to benefi t from the generous tariffs<br />
and unblock investment in the sector,<br />
the legislation requires that, once approved,<br />
solar thermal projects need to be ready<br />
to start operating within 36 months.<br />
So now the race is really on for a place<br />
in the Spanish sun.
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BUSINESS | LYLE & SCOTT<br />
92 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11
THE<br />
EAGLE<br />
HAS<br />
LANDED<br />
International businessman Derrick Campbell<br />
has turned knitwear company Lyle & Scott around,<br />
rejuvenating its image – and its bank balance<br />
THE ROSY-CHEEKED SCOT sitting across<br />
the table in his suit and tie doesn’t look<br />
particularly rock’n’roll. In fact, as he sips<br />
a cappuccino in one of Carnaby Street’s<br />
trendier bars, Derrick Campbell looks more<br />
like a strict presbyterian headmaster than<br />
the man behind one of Britain’s coolest<br />
clothing companies.<br />
But it’s because of 53-year-old Campbell<br />
that Lyle & Scott, a Scottish fi rm once<br />
famous for frumpy golf jumpers worn by<br />
the likes of Nick Faldo, has been adopted<br />
by hipsters such as the Arctic Monkeys,<br />
Kasabian, Alexa Chung and Pete Doherty.<br />
And with the credibility has come cash<br />
– when Campbell became Lyle & Scott’s<br />
managing director in 2004 it was trading<br />
at a loss of £2m (€1.7m) a year. Last year, it<br />
turned over £40m.<br />
“We were lucky in a way,” he says with<br />
a shy smile. “When I became head of the<br />
company, the products we were making<br />
– the close-fi t V-neck jumper and the<br />
STEPHANIE THEOBALD<br />
cardigan with the eagle logo – suited the<br />
style of the rock bands of the time. The<br />
more geeky, nerdy thing became cool.”<br />
But luck is only half the story. “I knew<br />
that the company had to change, so we<br />
plundered the archives and came up with<br />
a look we called Vintage, which combines<br />
the romance of the past with the edgy<br />
aesthetic of the present. It’s for young<br />
men and women who want both.”<br />
He later came up with a similar<br />
collection called Heritage for the 40-plus<br />
male, cleverly cut to help give older wearers<br />
a more fl attering fi gure. The changes broke<br />
with the company’s past, but in a way<br />
Campbell’s innovations were entirely in<br />
keeping with the aims of William Lyle and<br />
Walter Scott when they fi rst set up shop in<br />
1874. Scottish knitwear factories had been<br />
churning out hosiery for years, but Lyle and<br />
Scott realised there was a growing market<br />
in quality underwear for the increasingly<br />
wealthy middle classes.<br />
BUSINESS | LYLE & SCOTT<br />
MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 93
BUSINESS | LYLE & SCOTT<br />
Their product line developed<br />
throughout the 19th and early 20th<br />
centuries, until in the 1950s the company<br />
changed direction and went into women’s<br />
clothing, which included making cashmere<br />
garments for Christian Dior. Then, in<br />
the late 1960s, it was all change again –<br />
this time into golf clothes. By the time<br />
Campbell became MD in 2004, it was<br />
time for another shift in direction.<br />
ONE ADVANTAGE CAMPBELL has over his<br />
19th-century predecessors is his ability to<br />
travel – he lives a genuinely international<br />
life, and says that the jet-setting helps<br />
with his job. Every Monday morning he<br />
commutes from his home in Paris to the<br />
Lyle & Scott head offi ce in London, and then<br />
on Friday evenings he either heads back<br />
to Paris, or fl ies up to Edinburgh and then<br />
drives 50 minutes to Hawick in the Scottish<br />
Borders, where the factory still makes all of<br />
Lyle & Scott’s lambswool jumpers.<br />
“I think being an international traveller<br />
has kept my eye for trends fresh,” he says.<br />
“It’s easier to see the differences when you<br />
live in two cities. I love coming to London<br />
because you pick up trends. Londoners<br />
are more free about how they dress –<br />
women take more risks and men are more<br />
adventurous.” But he’s quick to add that<br />
he’s not convinced he’d want to live in<br />
London, as it’s “very expensive” and “much<br />
more speedy” than Paris, the city where he<br />
has set up home.<br />
Thirty years ago, when Campbell joined<br />
Lyle & Scott’s Hawick offi ce as a junior<br />
with a degree in modern languages, he<br />
hired a French intern, Laurence. They were<br />
soon romantically attached, and when she<br />
94 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />
“INTERNATIONAL<br />
TRAVEL KEEPS<br />
MY EYE FOR<br />
TRENDS FRESH”<br />
was offered a job at L’Oréal in Paris in the<br />
early 1990s, she and Campbell decided to<br />
leave Hawick for the snappy sophistication<br />
of the French capital. They now have<br />
a three-year-old son, Max, and Campbell<br />
has become “an insatiable traveller”.<br />
He even enjoys the Monday morning<br />
commute from Paris to London: “I’m wide<br />
awake and refreshed, and I’m also an hour<br />
ahead of everyone because of the time<br />
difference so I get ahead on my emails.”<br />
The independent life of the international<br />
commuter clearly suits him well, a fact he<br />
attributes to his Caledonian roots. “I’m<br />
very resourceful, and I think that comes in<br />
Clockwise from left, Lyle<br />
& Scott’s Archive range,<br />
Vintage, Derrick Campbell<br />
part from being brought up in the Scottish<br />
Borders,” he explains. “I did a lot of hill<br />
walking, horse riding and skiing when<br />
I was younger, which would take me off<br />
into the countryside on my own. It’s good<br />
to be a team player in business but selfsuffi<br />
ciency is also useful.”<br />
HE’S BEEN LIVING in the same room<br />
of the same Knightsbridge hotel for the<br />
20 years he’s been doing the weekly<br />
journey, and stays in touch with home<br />
by speaking to Laurence and Max every<br />
morning and evening – in French. “Max<br />
has started to correct my pronunciation,”<br />
he laughs. While he enjoys his time in<br />
both London and Paris, he has no doubt<br />
about his favourite place to be. “My heart<br />
will always be in Scotland,” he says with<br />
a twinkle. “I love going back to Hawick<br />
because there’s a complete unawareness<br />
of what’s on trend. I fi nd sanity there and<br />
a genuine wholeheartedness about people.”<br />
And with that, Campbell fi nishes his<br />
cappuccino and he’s up and out of the<br />
coffee bar. The polo shirt with the eagle<br />
logo on the breast is becoming as easily<br />
recognisable a badge of casual cool as<br />
a Fred Perry or Ralph Lauren shirt.<br />
With a new line of golf-themed knitwear<br />
out this spring he’s aiming to narrow the<br />
gap on the competition even further –<br />
and still get home for the weekend.
Children’s kimonos<br />
This<br />
su s uunique<br />
uniq u que e spe sp special pecial<br />
exhibition on children’s<br />
re ren’s kimon kim kimonos kkimonos<br />
onos nos eexclusively<br />
features items<br />
from f om m the<br />
he r rre<br />
remarkable a Nakano Kazuko<br />
collection ccolle<br />
lllection<br />
ect from Yamagata in northern Ja-<br />
pan. pa . This siis<br />
is the fi rst time that these items<br />
are arre<br />
on public display, and this is<br />
the fi rst exhibition in<br />
Europe Eu EEu<br />
E to be<br />
exclusively ex e<br />
devoted to<br />
the subject<br />
of children’s<br />
kimonos. All<br />
of the more than 90 children’s kimonos<br />
originate from the Edo period<br />
(1603–1867) up to the Shôwa period<br />
(1926–1989). A slideshow and videos<br />
on the subject of children’s kimonos put<br />
the visitors in the right mood for the exhibition.<br />
Opening Hours:<br />
MUSEUM, SHOP and CAFÉ:<br />
Daily from 10.00 until 18.00<br />
Steinenvorstadt 1, CH-4051 Basel<br />
Tel. +41 (0)61 225 95 95<br />
www.puppenhausmuseum.ch<br />
The building is accessible by wheelchair.<br />
Special exhibition<br />
16 October 2010<br />
until 3 April <strong>2011</strong><br />
Nakano Kazuko Collection<br />
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OWN IN<br />
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PROPERTY | NICE | MIPIM<br />
98 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />
B<br />
UI<br />
LD<br />
ING<br />
BUSI<br />
NESS<br />
Delegates explain why MIPIM remains the<br />
world’s most important real-estate event<br />
THE GLOBAL DOWNTURN has made<br />
its presence felt across many sectors of the<br />
real-estate industry, but at this month’s<br />
MIPIM event in Cannes it will very much<br />
be business as usual. If the turn-out<br />
for 2010’s event was anything to go by,<br />
MIPIM <strong>2011</strong> will be thronging, with more<br />
than 17,000 participants all intent on<br />
networking, investing or showcasing new<br />
projects and products.<br />
“From an international perspective,<br />
MIPIM is the most important event<br />
for the real-estate industry,” says Peter<br />
Rhodes, MD of MIPIM organiser Reed<br />
MIDEM UK. “It’s the only event that<br />
brings together so many developers,<br />
politicians and investors. Everyone is there<br />
to do business so it’s ideal for getting that<br />
meeting with someone who normally<br />
wouldn’t have time to see you.”<br />
Despite the economic crises that have<br />
hit several European countries over<br />
the past few years, there are plenty of<br />
LAURA LATHAM<br />
positive changes taking place within the<br />
commercial and residential sectors, as<br />
well as several grand public projects being<br />
showcased by delegates from America to<br />
Azerbaijan. We asked a few of this year’s<br />
visitors what they are hoping to achieve.<br />
➳ GARY YARDLEY<br />
INVESTMENT DIRECTOR<br />
CAPITAL & COUNTIES UK<br />
“This year we’ll be using MIPIM to launch<br />
the masterplan for London’s new Earls<br />
Court redevelopment. Designed by Sir<br />
Terry Farrell, the project comprises 77 acres<br />
of mixed-use retail, leisure, employment<br />
and residential opportunities in a prime<br />
London site, and we feel that MIPIM is<br />
the ideal venue to showcase this scheme<br />
to stakeholders and a global audience of<br />
potential investors and partners.<br />
“There’s no denying that the<br />
international real-estate market has had<br />
a torrid time over the past two years, but
PROPERTY | NICE | MIPIM<br />
Left, the Venezia<br />
Lifestyle Center is<br />
a beacon of exciting<br />
urban planning<br />
MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 99
PROPERTY | NICE | MIPIM<br />
most people in the industry are looking for<br />
a serious way to move forward. Despite the<br />
downturn, London has remained strong and<br />
people are still keen to invest here, so we’re<br />
looking forward to attending, especially as<br />
this year the UK is the country of honour.”<br />
➳ RON BAKKER PARTNER<br />
PLP ARCHITECTURE UK<br />
“Our fi rm has been attending MIPIM since<br />
it started and we’ve seen it move from being<br />
a purely European event to one that attracts<br />
people from the US, Middle East and Asia.<br />
This suits us very well as we have also grown<br />
as a practice to cover a more global market.<br />
“I’ve always found MIPIM a good place to<br />
catch up with people I know in the industry<br />
and now it’s also a good forum for meeting<br />
new clients or partners. It has become the<br />
key event for the international real-estate<br />
industry to generate business development.<br />
“It’s a great place for the exchange<br />
of ideas, a showcase for what diff erent<br />
companies are working on and who is<br />
looking to invest. It gives us a chance to see<br />
what else is happening, what’s new or where<br />
the emerging regions are.”<br />
➳ BEST OF BRITISH<br />
This year the UK is MIPIM’s<br />
country of honour, which<br />
means there will be a series<br />
of conferences and events<br />
dedicated to exploring its<br />
investment opportunities.<br />
In addition to panel-led<br />
discussions and meetings<br />
on the UK real-estate<br />
market, there will be<br />
presentations from major<br />
UK cities, private-sector<br />
fi rms and government<br />
development agencies.<br />
100 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />
➳ GOING GLOBAL<br />
Dr Nouriel Roubini,<br />
professor of economics at<br />
New York’s Stern School of<br />
Business, will address the<br />
conference about the global<br />
economic outlook and its<br />
implication for the realestate<br />
industry. Dr Roubini is<br />
a highly regarded economist<br />
and US government advisor,<br />
who was one of the few<br />
people to predict the<br />
current economic crisis.<br />
Don’t miss it.<br />
➳ DENIS TERSEN CEO<br />
PARIS REGION ECONOMIC<br />
DEVELOPMENT AGENCY FRANCE<br />
“Our role is to generate investment from<br />
overseas investors and enterprises in Paris<br />
and its surrounding regions, so MIPIM is<br />
hugely important to us as a way of reaching<br />
a broad base of international businesses.<br />
“We can provide information on all of<br />
Paris’s regions, so we can help companies<br />
identify the locations with the best realestate<br />
options, transport links and<br />
facilities for them.<br />
“We’re aiming to promote Paris as<br />
somewhere for sustainable building and<br />
green technology. We’re also a region<br />
that off ers a high level of creativity and<br />
innovation, technological and scientifi c<br />
research. Explaining all of this is easier<br />
through face-to-face contact with people.<br />
“Both the private and public sectors<br />
have had a bad time over the past few years,<br />
so we’re likely to see more partnerships<br />
between the sectors now. It’s also useful<br />
to show that government can play a part<br />
in generating development, and that plans<br />
need to be put in place for the long term.”<br />
MIPIM HIGHLIGHTS<br />
WORK THE ROOM AT ONE OF THESE TALKS OR EVENTS<br />
➳ AND THE REST<br />
Other highlights include<br />
workshops about moving<br />
into emerging markets,<br />
country and industryspecifi<br />
c presentations,<br />
and the prestigious MIPIM<br />
awards ceremony. One of the<br />
projects everyone is buzzing<br />
about is the new Venezia<br />
Lifestyle Center (pictured<br />
overleaf), an urban shopping<br />
and offi ce centre just<br />
outside Venice, which is<br />
due to open in March 2012.<br />
➳ MARKUS NEURAUTER MD<br />
RAIFFEISEN EVOLUTION AUSTRIA<br />
“As a commercial and residential developer<br />
we work across 11 countries in Europe and<br />
have been attending MIPIM since 2004.<br />
We’re sending eight delegates this year, and<br />
will be joining the Austrian stand. MIPIM is<br />
a good chance to meet new contacts in the<br />
real-estate industry and present projects for<br />
investment opportunities.<br />
“We have several projects in the pipeline<br />
right now but SkyTower is probably the<br />
most spectacular. This offi ce block is going<br />
to be the tallest building in Bucharest and<br />
is part of an urban development in the<br />
northeast of the city. I think <strong>2011</strong> will be<br />
the year when the markets, especially<br />
in central and south Eastern Europe, will<br />
start to grow again.”<br />
➳ JOHN WRIGHT<br />
DIRECTOR OF NATIONAL ACCOUNTS<br />
VACANT PROPERTY SPECIALISTS UK<br />
“This is the fi rst year we’ve attended<br />
MIPIM. We decided to take a stand this year<br />
because we feel our business, which off ers<br />
security solutions to vacant commercial<br />
premises, is ready to expand – the downturn<br />
has caused more retail and business units<br />
to become empty and there’s potential for<br />
growth. We have a presence in the US and<br />
most areas of Europe but feel it would be<br />
useful to show what we do to a wider global<br />
audience. MIPIM is the ideal forum for that.<br />
“MIPIM is a one-of-a-kind opportunity to<br />
expand our portfolio, build relationships and<br />
explain our business model to people who<br />
don’t yet know about the services we can<br />
off er. It also gives us the chance to see<br />
what potential there is in new markets.<br />
I think <strong>2011</strong> will see an increase in the need<br />
for property-management services such as<br />
ours in other countries.”<br />
MIPIM runs from 8–11 March, mipim.com<br />
easyJet flies to...<br />
Nice from 13 destinations.<br />
See our insider guide on page 166.<br />
Book online at easyJet.com
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INTRODUCING THE<br />
VERANDA RESORT<br />
Having your own luxury place under the Egyptian sun by<br />
the Red Sea is the stuff of dreams. With aff ordable<br />
apartments and villas at Veranda, your dream can come true<br />
VERANDA IS BUILDING a reputation as<br />
one of Egypt’s leading resorts. Nestling on<br />
the Red Sea coast, Veranda is a collection<br />
of villas and apartments set among white<br />
beaches, blue swimming pools and rolling<br />
golf courses. It’s an excellent example<br />
of natural beauty working in harmony<br />
with the best in architectural design. The<br />
resort was created by Saleh Hamdy, one of<br />
Egypt’s leading architects, whose previous<br />
work includes fi ve-star hotels in Cairo and<br />
various embassy buildings.<br />
Veranda is located in the heart of Sahl<br />
Hasheesh, a vibrant new community of<br />
hotels, restaurants, shops and marinas.<br />
And getting there couldn’t be easier, for<br />
the village is conveniently located 20<br />
minutes from Hurghada International<br />
airport with daily fl ights direct from UK and<br />
European airports.<br />
The Veranda Resort is centred around<br />
a series of pools, waterfalls, lagoons,<br />
walkways and stunning views of the<br />
surrounding golf course and Red Sea. You<br />
can spend your day diving in the warm<br />
waters of the bay, playing a round of golf,<br />
working out at the gym, relaxing at the<br />
spa, having lunch at one of Veranda’s<br />
outstanding restaurants or chilling out by<br />
your own private pool soaking up the allyear-round<br />
sunshine and warm climate.<br />
And at Veranda, luxury comes at an<br />
aff ordable price. Prices start from only<br />
£55,000 for apartments and £310,000<br />
for villas. The resort also off ers a variety of<br />
fi nancing options, including a seven-year<br />
payment plan.<br />
The Veranda Resort. An is an aff ordable<br />
luxury not to miss out on.<br />
Tel: +20 237 620 166<br />
Email: info@verandaegypt.com<br />
verandaegypt.com<br />
ADVERTISING PROMOTION<br />
Entrance to the Sahl<br />
Hasheesh resort
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IN THE LAP OF LUXURY<br />
Choose the right package and you won’t have to break<br />
the bank to get a taste of the Monte-Carlo high life<br />
THE MONTE-CARLO SBM group is<br />
synonymous with prestige and luxury<br />
around the world, and off ers a fantastic<br />
stay at the best leisure venues in the<br />
principality. These include hotels, casinos,<br />
33 bars and restaurants, spas, Moods<br />
Music Bar and Buddha-Bar.<br />
Enjoy Monte-Carlo with an exclusive<br />
package at the Monte-Carlo Bay Hotel &<br />
Resort. Costing from €218 per night for<br />
two people, it includes:<br />
➼ A three-night stay in a double room with<br />
buff et breakfast<br />
➼ A VIP welcome with Champagne<br />
➼ A Monte-Carlo Invitation Card of €50 to<br />
spend in the resort<br />
➼ A Monte-Carlo SBM Carte d'Or, which<br />
gives free access to the Casino de Monte-<br />
Carlo and shuttle buses around the resort,<br />
plus 50% discount on fees at the Monte-<br />
Carlo Golf Club and the Monte-Carlo<br />
Country Club, which has 23 tennis courts.<br />
The Hotel de Paris, Hotel Hermitage,<br />
Monte-Carlo Bay Hotel & Resort and<br />
Monte-Carlo Beach also off er packages.<br />
Monte-Carlo Rolex Masters: 9–17 April<br />
Celebrating its 105th anniversary this<br />
year, this annual tournament remains both<br />
a player and fan favourite thanks to its<br />
Mediterranean location and stellar line-up<br />
of athletes.<br />
The Everest Poker One: 21–24 April<br />
Held at the Salle des Palmiers and with<br />
a prize pool of €1m, this is one gaming<br />
experience not be missed.<br />
Formula One: 26–29 May<br />
Widely considered one of the most<br />
prestigious and glamorous events in the<br />
motor racing calendar, the glitterati and<br />
motoring enthusiasts alike fl ock to this<br />
exhilarating Grand Prix event, staged<br />
around the narrow and winding streets of<br />
Monte-Carlo.<br />
Monte-Carlo events <strong>2011</strong><br />
Monte-Carlo Rolex Masters: 9–17 April<br />
The Everest Poker One: 21–24 April<br />
Formula One: 26–29 May<br />
tel: +377 98 062525; montecarloresort.com<br />
ADVERTISING PROMOTION<br />
Clockwise from left, Monte-Carlo Beach Hotel; Monte-<br />
Carlo Rolex Masters; The Everest Poker One; Formula<br />
One; Monte-Carlo Bay Hotel & Resort
A–Z | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Madeira<br />
CANARY<br />
ISLANDS<br />
Lanzarote<br />
Fuerteventura<br />
Tenerife<br />
South<br />
DESTINATION<br />
GUIDES<br />
A–Z<br />
Gran<br />
Canaria<br />
106 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />
Agadir<br />
PORTUGAL<br />
Lisbon<br />
Faro<br />
Casablanca<br />
Marrakech<br />
Gibraltar<br />
Tangier<br />
Porto<br />
NEW<br />
Seville<br />
Fez<br />
NEW<br />
Santiago de<br />
Compostela<br />
Málaga<br />
MOROCCO<br />
Asturias<br />
Madrid<br />
Almería<br />
SPAIN<br />
Bilbao<br />
Valencia<br />
Alicante<br />
Murcia<br />
Belfast<br />
BHD<br />
Belfast BFS<br />
Jersey<br />
Biarritz<br />
Nantes<br />
Barcelona<br />
Ibiza<br />
La Rochelle<br />
Bordeaux<br />
Inverness<br />
Aberdeen<br />
Glasgow<br />
Liverpool<br />
Newcastle<br />
Birmingham<br />
Bristol<br />
London STN<br />
Bournemouth LTN<br />
LGW<br />
Brest<br />
Majorca<br />
Edinburgh<br />
Isle of Man Leeds Bradford<br />
Manchester<br />
UK<br />
Paris CDG<br />
Paris ORY<br />
FRANCE<br />
Toulouse Montpellier<br />
Menorca<br />
Amsterdam<br />
BELGIUM<br />
Brussels<br />
Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg<br />
Lyon<br />
Grenoble<br />
Marseille Nice<br />
NETHERLANDS<br />
Düsseldorf<br />
Zürich<br />
Geneva<br />
SWITZERLAND<br />
Corsica<br />
(Ajaccio)<br />
Milan<br />
MXP<br />
Milan LIN<br />
Corsica<br />
(Bastia)<br />
Olbia<br />
Cagliari
Hamburg<br />
Dortmund<br />
Cologne/<br />
Bonn<br />
GERMANY<br />
NEW<br />
Munich<br />
Verona<br />
Bologna<br />
ITALY<br />
Pisa<br />
DENMARK<br />
Venice<br />
Berlin<br />
CZECH REPUBLIC<br />
AUSTRIA<br />
Innsbruck<br />
NEW<br />
Rome<br />
CIA<br />
Dresden<br />
Palermo<br />
SLOVENIA<br />
Ljubljana<br />
Zagreb<br />
CROATIA<br />
POLAND<br />
Prague Kraków<br />
Rome<br />
FCO<br />
Malta<br />
Salzburg<br />
SWEDEN<br />
Gothenburg<br />
Copenhagen<br />
Vienna<br />
Split<br />
Naples<br />
Lamezia<br />
Catania<br />
Stockholm<br />
Dubrovnik<br />
HUNGARY<br />
Bari<br />
Brindisi<br />
Budapest<br />
Corfu<br />
Zante<br />
KOSOVO<br />
Helsinki<br />
Pristina<br />
GREECE<br />
FINLAND<br />
Tallinn<br />
ESTONIA<br />
Sofi a<br />
Thessaloniki<br />
ROMANIA<br />
BULGARIA<br />
Bucharest<br />
Athens<br />
Mykonos<br />
Kos<br />
Bodrum Antalya<br />
Dalaman<br />
Santorini Rhodes<br />
Crete<br />
(Chania)<br />
Crete (Heraklion)<br />
Istanbul<br />
Izmir NEW<br />
EGYPT<br />
TURKEY<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | A–Z<br />
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Cyprus<br />
(Paphos)<br />
Hurghada<br />
Luxor<br />
Cyprus<br />
(Larnaca)<br />
Tel Aviv<br />
ISRAEL<br />
Sharm<br />
El Sheikh<br />
Amman<br />
NEW<br />
JORDAN<br />
MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 107
108 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Aberdeen<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW, LTN)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £15.<br />
Up to three buses<br />
an hour go to<br />
the centre until 10pm.<br />
Tickets: from £1.40.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Chi Bar &<br />
Restaurant (9 Belmont<br />
Street, tel: 01224 622<br />
010) Share a platter with<br />
a pal here or choose a<br />
dish from the extensive<br />
menu. Once you’ve<br />
satisfi ed your appetite,<br />
wander through<br />
to the well-stocked<br />
bar for a cocktail.<br />
EXCLUSIVE 210<br />
Bistro (210 South<br />
Market Street, tel:<br />
01224 211 857) Enjoy a<br />
fi ne-dining experience<br />
here. The chefs are<br />
sure to cook up a real<br />
treat using the fi nest<br />
local produce, and with<br />
an extensive wine list<br />
chosen by renowned<br />
wine merchant Graham<br />
Donaldson, there’s a<br />
wine to suit all dishes.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY The Dutch<br />
Mill (7 Queens Road,<br />
tel: 01224 322 555)<br />
The Dutch Mill is a<br />
family-run hotel bar and<br />
restaurant in the West<br />
End. Choose your tipple<br />
from the well-stocked<br />
bar and enjoy the cosy<br />
surroundings, or head<br />
to the conservatory.<br />
LATE & LIVELY Dusk<br />
(51 Langstane Place)<br />
One of the trendiest<br />
nightspots in the city,<br />
Dusk’s cocktail list is<br />
sure to have something<br />
to tantalise your taste<br />
buds. Alternatively, ask<br />
the mixologists to shake<br />
up something new.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Emlou Fashion<br />
Boutique is a women’s<br />
store in the heart of the<br />
city. Bridging the gap<br />
between high street and<br />
designer, with brands<br />
such as Almost Famous,<br />
Ben Sherman and Ruby<br />
Rocks (The Galleria,<br />
Langstane Place,<br />
tel: 01224 588 905).<br />
GO Celebrate the fi nest<br />
cuisine as chefs serve<br />
seasonal spring dishes<br />
from rustic bistro to<br />
fi ne dining. Off ering<br />
something for every<br />
pocket, Dine on Deeside<br />
is guaranteed to fi re up<br />
gastro imaginations and<br />
tickle the taste buds. On<br />
18–27 March (discover<br />
royaldeeside.com).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Aberdeen granite was<br />
used to build London’s<br />
Waterloo Bridge and<br />
the terraces of the<br />
Houses of Parliament.<br />
Beverley Tricker<br />
Agadir<br />
Morocco<br />
DIALLING CODE +212<br />
CURRENCY MAD<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW), Lyon,<br />
Milan (MXP), Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs MAD200.<br />
Route 22 to<br />
Inezgane runs<br />
every 40 minutes.<br />
Tickets: MAD4. From<br />
there take a bus to Agadir.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Ibtissam<br />
(Place Tamri, Talborjt)<br />
Ibtissam serves fresh<br />
Moroccan and Italian<br />
dishes at low prices.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Mozartstube (24<br />
Avenue des FAR, tel:<br />
0528 824 564) It’s an<br />
unexpected treat to<br />
fi nd delicious European<br />
cuisine in this classy<br />
little Austrian restaurant<br />
tucked away off the main<br />
thoroughfare of Agadir.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Camels<br />
(Front de Mer) Camels<br />
is situated on arguably<br />
the most popular<br />
stretch of Agadir’s new<br />
promenade. Come to<br />
Is your holiday home<br />
fully booked?<br />
Register with us to advertise to 27 million people a month.<br />
We guarantee you booking enquiries, or your money back!<br />
this spot to chill out after<br />
a hot day on the beach.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Factory (Boulevard du<br />
20 Août) If you’re looking<br />
to be cool and hip,<br />
hang out at the Factory.<br />
Regular live bands and<br />
DJs play until 4am.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Banana Beach<br />
provides a backdrop for<br />
the colourful produce of<br />
the Wednesday market<br />
in the village of Aourir.<br />
GO With its upmarket<br />
bars, restaurants, cafés<br />
and shops, the marina<br />
provides a beautiful<br />
setting to idle away your<br />
day. With an impressive<br />
backdrop leading to<br />
the Kasbah, it’s well<br />
worth a visit.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Mint tea, a refreshing<br />
Moroccan beverage, is<br />
made from green tea<br />
with the addition of<br />
mint leaves and enough<br />
sugar to satisfy a sweet<br />
tooth for a month or so.<br />
Anne Imisliou<br />
KENZI<br />
EUROPA<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
This hotel is situated<br />
in the heart of Agadir,<br />
in a modern complex<br />
of elegant rooms<br />
with warm décor.<br />
Breakfast included.<br />
From €90, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
Alicante<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Belfast (BFS), Bristol,<br />
Edinburgh, Geneva,<br />
Glasgow, Liverpool,<br />
London (LGW, LTN, STN),<br />
Manchester, Newcastle<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €15–€20.<br />
A direct service to<br />
Benidorm runs<br />
hourly from 8am–11pm.<br />
Tickets: €8.<br />
TAXI Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 La Cava<br />
del Albir (5–8 Cami<br />
de la Cantera, tel:<br />
966 864 705) Try the<br />
smoked salmon, crab<br />
or spicy hot chorizo<br />
sausage on crispy<br />
fresh bread for a light<br />
but tasty lunch at<br />
this newly opened<br />
smart tapas bar<br />
and restaurant.<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Al Fresco (9 Carretera<br />
de Benidorm, Finestrat<br />
Pueblo, tel: 965 878<br />
478) The Al Fresco<br />
restaurant surprises<br />
with its creative<br />
Mediterranean cuisine.<br />
The specialities,<br />
including pork and<br />
fi sh dishes, are<br />
served with exquisite<br />
sauces, while the wine<br />
list also delights.<br />
D’Els Artistas<br />
(6 Plaza de la Iglesia,<br />
tel: 96 584 1269)<br />
Swiss chef Roland<br />
Broggi cooks<br />
traditional French<br />
dishes with his own<br />
classical touch. Try the<br />
Coquille Sant Jacque<br />
(scallops) or boned<br />
turbot in morel sauce.<br />
UP TO €50 El<br />
Cortijo (Urbanización<br />
Maryvilla, Calpe, tel:<br />
965 832 933) Head<br />
outside here to eat<br />
on the Andalucianstyle<br />
patio in the<br />
garden. Guests can<br />
enjoy masterfully<br />
presented Basque-<br />
French cuisine<br />
accompanied by fi ne<br />
regional wines.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Nuevo Alcázar<br />
(2 Calle Argentina,<br />
Urbanización<br />
Panorama, La Nucía,<br />
tel: 965 873 208) Four<br />
dining areas around<br />
a Moorish patio with<br />
tinkling fountains set<br />
the scene for a venue<br />
serving a magnifi cent<br />
mix of French, Belgian<br />
and Mediterranean<br />
cooking by master chef<br />
Javier Boccalandro.<br />
Scampis Alcázar, trio<br />
of fi sh, Chateaubriand<br />
and rack of lamb<br />
will all delight.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Bar<br />
Penelope (Levante<br />
Promenade, Benidorm)<br />
Relax with a glass of<br />
Join before 30 April to get £80 off a Premium<br />
Advert (normally £299) plus you will also get a<br />
FREE listing on (Quote EJOFFER)
wine and see the world<br />
stroll by at Penelope.<br />
Great for watching<br />
glorious sunsets over<br />
the Old Quarter.<br />
LIVE MUSIC Blues<br />
(Levante Beach,<br />
Benidorm) Located<br />
at the south end of<br />
Levante Beach, this<br />
venue features cool<br />
blues with horns<br />
wailing well into the<br />
night. After-hours jam<br />
sessions bring out the<br />
best of the local jazz<br />
talent. Don’t forget<br />
your clarinet.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Zodiac (Calle Gerona,<br />
Benidorm) A club-café<br />
with acts including<br />
comedians, artists,<br />
impressionists and<br />
even hypnotists.<br />
Open until 5am<br />
with good music and<br />
plenty of laughs.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Visit Altea’s<br />
beachside market,<br />
which takes place<br />
every Tuesday. One<br />
of the largest on the<br />
Costa Blanca, the<br />
market sells everything<br />
from fruit and<br />
vegetables to home<br />
furnishings, clothing<br />
and leatherwork.<br />
SEE The Costa Blanca<br />
celebrates Las Fallas<br />
from 16–19 March,<br />
which is traditionally<br />
when huge bonfi res<br />
were lit to celebrate<br />
the end of winter<br />
darkness. Now the<br />
festivities see huge,<br />
humorous effi gies<br />
of politicians and<br />
celebrities burned<br />
in the streets amid<br />
singing and dancing.<br />
The best and biggest<br />
Fallas is in Valencia,<br />
but all towns celebrate<br />
with huge fi rework<br />
displays. This is an<br />
event not to be missed.<br />
GO Spend a lazy<br />
day chilling out on<br />
the sands of beautiful<br />
La Cala bay in<br />
Finestrat. There’s<br />
good, sheltered<br />
swimming, and<br />
plenty of restaurants<br />
and bars for a relaxed<br />
alfresco meal in<br />
the springtime sun.<br />
ESCAPE Take a<br />
Jeep safari into the<br />
hinterland of the Costa<br />
Blanca. You’ll drive<br />
in a professionally<br />
led convoy to visit<br />
ancient villages<br />
lost in time, and<br />
lunch on traditional<br />
country fare.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Don Quixote,<br />
considered to be the<br />
fi rst modern novel, was<br />
written by the Spaniard<br />
Miguel de Cervantes.<br />
Danny Collins<br />
PUEBLO<br />
ACANTILADO<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
Suspended on a<br />
spectacular cliff , and<br />
with the best views of<br />
the coast, this resort<br />
recreates the fl avour of<br />
typical Costa Blanca.<br />
From €75, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
Almería<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €13.<br />
Route 20 goes<br />
to the centre.<br />
Tickets: €1.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Arrecife<br />
(Calle Cala Higuera,<br />
San José, tel: 950<br />
380 425) Arrecife<br />
has a varied menu,<br />
which includes<br />
budget-priced<br />
combination dishes<br />
such as chicken<br />
breast with chips,<br />
salad and fried egg.<br />
There are also some<br />
great Mediterranean<br />
specials, such as<br />
rabbit in garlic,<br />
paella and fresh fi sh.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Hotel<br />
Catedral (8 Plaza de<br />
la Catedral, tel: 950<br />
278 178) Set in the<br />
heart of the Old Town,<br />
this stylish hotel is<br />
the place to come for<br />
high-end meals in<br />
a formal setting.<br />
Booking is advisable.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
El Emigrante (55 Calle<br />
Correos, San José, tel:<br />
950 380 114) A quiet<br />
bar with restaurant<br />
attached in the very<br />
chilled-out village of<br />
San José. Chew on<br />
the free tapa which<br />
comes with each<br />
beer and listen to<br />
the local tittle tattle.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Guarapo (3 Plaza<br />
Antonio González<br />
Egea) A bar in the party<br />
zone at the heart of<br />
the Old Town, near the<br />
cathedral. The DJ spins<br />
dance and disco hits<br />
until the early hours.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP The central food<br />
market off Calle Aguilar<br />
de Campo is bustling.<br />
It’s a great place to<br />
stroll to to see a bit of<br />
real Spain, as well as<br />
pick up a few bargains.<br />
SEE The line-up for the<br />
11th Musicas del Alma<br />
festival in San Javier<br />
includes Steve Lukather,<br />
guitarist, singer and<br />
songwriter for Toto, on<br />
12 March. Tickets for<br />
all concerts at Parque<br />
Almansa cost €10 and<br />
are available from the<br />
town hall box offi ce<br />
(jazz.sanjavier.es).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The highest mountain<br />
on the Iberian<br />
peninsula, Mulhacén<br />
(3,478m), and the<br />
third-highest peak,<br />
Veleta (3,394m), both<br />
lie in the Sierra Nevada<br />
mountain range to<br />
the west of Almería.<br />
David Jones<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 109<br />
Amsterdam<br />
Netherlands<br />
DIALLING CODE +31<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Barcelona, Basel-<br />
Mulhouse, Belfast (BFS),<br />
Berlin, Bristol, Edinburgh,<br />
Geneva, Liverpool,<br />
London (LGW, LTN, STN),<br />
Madrid, Manchester,<br />
Milan (MXP), Prague,<br />
Rome (FCO), Split<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €40.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
There are seven<br />
trains an hour to<br />
Centraal station.<br />
Tickets: €3.80 single.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15<br />
Maoz Vegetarian<br />
(1 Muntplein, tel: 020<br />
420 7435) There<br />
are branches of this<br />
self-service falafel salad<br />
bar all over Europe and<br />
the US, including Times<br />
Square in New York,<br />
but this is where the<br />
franchise started in 1991.<br />
The tasty pitta bread<br />
pockets are wholesome,<br />
fi lling and cheap as chips<br />
(which, by the way, are<br />
also available).<br />
UP TO €30 Barça (30<br />
Marie Heinekenplein,<br />
tel: 020 470 4144)<br />
Situated in the trendy<br />
de Pijp neighbourhood,<br />
this uncharacteristically<br />
large tapas bar and<br />
restaurant can brighten<br />
the darkest of drizzly<br />
days, with its wide<br />
selection of hearty<br />
Iberian classics and its<br />
well-priced wine list.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Lion Noir (28<br />
Reguliersdwarsstraat,<br />
tel: 020 627 6603)<br />
This glamorous new<br />
restaurant has taken<br />
discretion to the point<br />
of anonymity; the lack<br />
of signage and all-black<br />
storefront give it the air<br />
of a private members’<br />
club. Inside you’ll fi nd<br />
quirky art, good-looking<br />
staff and a sublime<br />
menu that incorporates<br />
a lot of meat. The<br />
oysters are fresh<br />
and fabulous, so order<br />
at least a few.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Café Schiller<br />
(24A Rembrandtplein,<br />
tel: 020 624 9846)<br />
Situated on Rembrandt<br />
Square (check out the<br />
statue in the middle),<br />
this handsome building<br />
is a relatively quiet<br />
place to stop off for a<br />
drink before a night at<br />
the gorgeous art-deco<br />
Tuschinski cinema<br />
nearby. Service is as<br />
bright and breezy<br />
as the café itself.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Heineken Music Hall<br />
(590 Arena Boulevard,<br />
tel: 0900 687 4242) If<br />
you’re lucky, you might<br />
get tickets to The Black<br />
Keys (18 March)
110 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Amsterdam<br />
Netherlands<br />
or one of the other<br />
many fantastic acts<br />
playing this month.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Chupitos (25<br />
Zieseniskade) This<br />
recently opened shooter<br />
bar is Amsterdam’s<br />
fi rst, and the aim<br />
was to recreate the<br />
vibe of similar spots<br />
in Barcelona. Down<br />
a chupito (“shot” in<br />
Spanish) named after a<br />
cult legend such as Bob<br />
Marley and Che Guevara.<br />
It attracts a young<br />
crowd, and the staff<br />
aren’t averse to cocktailstyle<br />
showmanship.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Amsterdam<br />
has more than its fair<br />
share of independent<br />
jewellery designers,<br />
but Artwear Jordaan<br />
on Brouwersgracht<br />
treads the line between<br />
fancy and fanciful, with<br />
colourful trinkets galore<br />
(tel: 020 845 5317,<br />
artwearjordaan.com).<br />
SEE If you’re in town<br />
during the fi rst week<br />
of this month, and like<br />
your music loud and<br />
experimental, check<br />
out the annual 5 Days<br />
Off festival at Paradiso.<br />
It’s fast becoming<br />
one of Europe’s best<br />
electronica events<br />
(5daysoff .nl).<br />
GO One of<br />
Amsterdam’s<br />
southernmost districts,<br />
Rivierenbuurt boasts<br />
plenty of buildings from<br />
the Amsterdam school<br />
of architecture and two<br />
beautiful parks. If the<br />
weather’s bad, check<br />
out what’s going on<br />
in the mammoth RAI<br />
convention centre<br />
(22 Europaplein).<br />
ESCAPE If getting<br />
out of the city is more<br />
than you can manage<br />
on a short stay, a<br />
diff erent taste of the<br />
Netherlands can be<br />
found just a few steps<br />
away from the bustling<br />
Spui. The Begijnhof is<br />
a secluded sanctuary<br />
dating from the<br />
Middle Ages. Originally<br />
intended as a retreat<br />
for religious women, it<br />
remains a beautiful spot<br />
for quiet contemplation<br />
to this day.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Amsterdammers think<br />
nothing of a spot of<br />
inner-city horse riding.<br />
Half way down one<br />
of the city’s busiest<br />
roads, the Hollandsche<br />
Manege equestrian<br />
centre has been in<br />
business for more<br />
than 125 years.<br />
Mark Smith<br />
UP TO €50<br />
Toscanini (75<br />
Lindengracht, tel: 020<br />
623 2813) Dishes on<br />
the menu are made<br />
entirely from organic<br />
and ethically sourced<br />
ingredients. Fine<br />
homemade pasta is<br />
the star here.<br />
Antalya<br />
Turkey<br />
DIALLING CODE +90<br />
CURRENCY TRY<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €25.<br />
Hava Buses<br />
service the city<br />
centre every 30 minutes.<br />
Tickets: €5 single.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Basoglu<br />
Balık Restaurant<br />
(Meltem Mahallesi, 4<br />
Kapalı Halk Pazarı, tel:<br />
0242 237 8328) Select<br />
your own fi sh from<br />
Basoglu’s stall adjacent<br />
to the restaurant. This is<br />
where the locals gather<br />
for a meal; it’s very<br />
reasonably priced,<br />
and there’s fast and<br />
effi cient service.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Ristorante Verona<br />
(Ramada Plaza Antalya,<br />
22 Fevzi Çakmak<br />
Caddesi, tel: 0242 249<br />
1111) Á la carte Italian<br />
cuisine of this quality<br />
is a rarity in Antalya.<br />
Verona off ers a varied<br />
menu with great pasta,<br />
pizza, seafood and main<br />
course meat dishes to<br />
satisfy any palate, all<br />
accompanied by an<br />
especially good wine list.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Uzaklar<br />
(223A Eski Lara Yolu,<br />
irinyalı Mahallesi) Enjoy<br />
a good martini in a<br />
congenial lounge-bar<br />
atmosphere. This<br />
bar supports a great<br />
selection of imported<br />
beverages and also<br />
off ers low-key jazz.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Indigo’s Pub (Ramada<br />
Plaza Antalya, 22 Fevzi<br />
Çakmak Caddesi, tel:<br />
0242 249 1111) Midweek<br />
this is the only place to<br />
hear good jazz and blues.<br />
If you’re into oldies,<br />
the same band will stir<br />
your memories and<br />
heartstrings on Friday<br />
and weekend nights.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Rasayana is an<br />
organic store off ering<br />
all things healthy, from<br />
herbal teas and organic<br />
grains to scented oils<br />
and soaps (Bahçelievler<br />
Mh, Pamir Caddesi, 54<br />
Hamitbey apartments).<br />
GO Visit the Suna-Inan<br />
Kıraç Kaleiçi Museum<br />
or the Yivli Minaret and<br />
Ulu Mosque near the<br />
harbour, in the Old City<br />
of Kaleiçi within Antalya.<br />
Fishermen off er boat<br />
trips to view waterfalls<br />
along the beautiful coast.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Antalya was supposedly<br />
founded in 150BC, but<br />
recent excavations at<br />
Dogu Garaji point to a<br />
more likely date in the<br />
third century BC.<br />
Jon Stigner<br />
Asturias<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Geneva,<br />
London (STN)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €53<br />
to Oviedo, €45 Gijón<br />
and €23 Avilés.<br />
The Express bus<br />
runs hourly from<br />
6am–10pm to Oviedo<br />
and Gijón. Tickets:<br />
€6.35. Buses to Avilés<br />
cost €1.35.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Calleja<br />
Real (12 Calle Alfonso<br />
VII, tel: 984 830 104)<br />
This new restaurant<br />
has just opened on a<br />
well-known bar-hopping<br />
street in Avilés. The<br />
venue is cosy and<br />
warmly decorated. Split<br />
a few mouthwatering<br />
fi sh dishes and a bottle<br />
of wine with friends.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Restaurante Diego (23<br />
Avenida Galicia, tel: 985<br />
508 579) This top-notch<br />
restaurant near the<br />
seaside resort of Salinas<br />
opened in 2007 and<br />
continues to produce<br />
excellent fi sh dishes<br />
such as monkfi sh or<br />
octopus. The chef, Diego,<br />
has introduced a new<br />
concept, off ering haute<br />
cuisine on a set menu.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Los Tres<br />
Tenores (20 Calle<br />
Galiana) One of the<br />
most popular, smart but<br />
laidback wine bars on<br />
the town’s main drag<br />
in the Old Quarter. It’s<br />
a great place to have<br />
a pre-dinner drink.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Barlovento (12 Marqués<br />
de San Esteban, Gijón) A<br />
great stomping ground<br />
in Gijón’s lively club area<br />
on the Poniente beach. It<br />
stays open until 7am and<br />
a long galley-style bar<br />
keeps the drinks fl owing.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Kit yourself<br />
out with stylish gear<br />
by famous designer<br />
Adolfo Dominguez at<br />
one of a number of his<br />
boutiques in the region<br />
(7 Covadonga, Gijón).<br />
SEE Banned during<br />
the Franco years,<br />
Asturians celebrate<br />
Antroxu (carnival) with a<br />
vengeance. Party week<br />
this year is from 2–9<br />
March, and festivities<br />
include fl amboyant<br />
fl oats, fancy dress and<br />
gastronomic indulgence.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
On the Thursday before<br />
Ash Wednesday (3<br />
March) it’s a deep-rooted<br />
Asturian tradition for<br />
comadres (female<br />
friends) to get together<br />
for a celebratory drink.<br />
Karen Thomas
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112 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Athens<br />
Greece<br />
DIALLING CODE +30<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Berlin, London<br />
(LGW), Manchester,<br />
Milan (MXP), Paris<br />
(ORY), Rome (FCO)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €35.<br />
Proastiako and<br />
metro line trains<br />
service the city. Tickets:<br />
€6 single; €10 return.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Cabrio<br />
(34–36 Kastorias Street,<br />
Votanikos, tel: 210 348<br />
0000) The colourful and<br />
modern café-restaurant<br />
in the Athinais arts<br />
centre has a small but<br />
well-executed menu with<br />
multi-ethnic overtones.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Funky Gourmet (13<br />
Paramythias Street, tel:<br />
210 524 2727) Always<br />
on the cutting edge<br />
of culinary art, chefs<br />
Hiliadaki, Bantis and<br />
Roussos have taken<br />
a few pointers from<br />
across the Atlantic and<br />
produced their own<br />
table-top desserts at<br />
this restaurant.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY The Kinky<br />
Café (24 Megalou<br />
Alexandrou Street)<br />
The name says it all.<br />
The erotic ambience<br />
is reinforced by the<br />
artwork on the walls and<br />
the suggestively named<br />
drinks on the menu.<br />
Defi nitely X-rated.<br />
LATE & LIVELY D.C.<br />
(30–32 Iera Odos Street,<br />
Gazi) This mainstream<br />
club is decorated to look<br />
like a street with the<br />
walls of the buildings<br />
removed, letting you<br />
see parts of a garage,<br />
a kitchen, a living room<br />
and a school library.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Block colours,<br />
animal appliques and<br />
clothes as collage: the<br />
Heel Shop is 100%<br />
Greek and fun – it’s all<br />
about discovering the<br />
child within (11 Irakleitou<br />
Street, heelshop.gr).<br />
SEE The exhibition<br />
Obsessions & Intimacy,<br />
featuring work by<br />
Austrian artists, will<br />
be on display at the<br />
B&M Theocharakis<br />
Foundation for the<br />
Fine Arts and Music<br />
throughout the month (9<br />
Vassilissis Sofi as Avenue,<br />
tel: 210 361 1206).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
March coincides with<br />
Orthodox Lent, which<br />
is a much stricter aff air<br />
than in most of Europe.<br />
Apart from chocolate, a<br />
decent Lent fast bans all<br />
types of meat, eggs and<br />
dairy products, except<br />
“bloodless” seafood<br />
such as shellfi sh.<br />
Eva Webster<br />
Barcelona<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Amsterdam,<br />
Basel-Mulhouse, Belfast<br />
(BFS), Berlin, Bristol,<br />
Dortmund, Geneva,<br />
Lisbon, Liverpool,<br />
London (LGW, LTN,<br />
STN), Lyon, Milan<br />
(MXP), Newcastle<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €30.<br />
The Aerobus runs<br />
a frequent service<br />
to Plaça Catalunya.<br />
Tickets: €5.<br />
Trains service the<br />
Sants Estació.<br />
Tickets: €2.50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 La Divina<br />
(5 Carrer d’Ataulf, tel: 93<br />
180 6940) Tucked out of<br />
sight in the Barri Gotic,<br />
this suave little barrestaurant<br />
serves tasty<br />
Euro-Iberian and Tex-Mex<br />
cuisine at friendly prices.<br />
During lunch (1–4pm),<br />
take advantage of the<br />
three-course menú del<br />
día for under €10.<br />
UP TO €30 Mesón<br />
David (63 Carrer de<br />
Carretas, tel: 93 441<br />
5934) Classic Spanish<br />
dishes from every<br />
region of the country<br />
have found their way<br />
on to the menu of this<br />
superb restaurant.<br />
Basque hake, Navarran<br />
trout and Galician stews<br />
are all served in huge<br />
portions – suffi ce to say<br />
no one leaves Mesón<br />
David hungry.<br />
UP TO €50 I Buoni<br />
Amici (193 Carrer<br />
Casanova, tel: 93<br />
439 6816) With its<br />
quirky décor, intimate<br />
atmosphere and<br />
delicious pasta, it’s no<br />
surprise this is one<br />
of L’Eixample’s most<br />
popular Italian eateries. I<br />
Buoni Amici also serves<br />
a mean steak if you fancy<br />
something more meaty.<br />
EXCLUSIVE 7 Portes<br />
(14 Passeig Isabel II,<br />
tel: 93 319 3033) A<br />
Barcelona icon since<br />
1836, the stately 7 Portes<br />
has seen generations<br />
of genteel Barcelonans<br />
pass through its seven<br />
doors for wonderful<br />
seafood and rice dishes.<br />
The paella is legendary.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Cervecería<br />
Jazz (44 Carrer de<br />
Margarit, tel: 93 443<br />
3259) A tremendous fi nd<br />
in the earthy district of<br />
Poble Sec, this bar has<br />
little to do with jazz but a<br />
lot to do with tasty beers<br />
and ales from around<br />
the world. The perfect<br />
antidote to another night<br />
of bland big-brand lager.<br />
LIVE MUSIC La Cova<br />
de les Cultures (12<br />
Carrer de l’ Ángel, tel:<br />
93 237 5260) This selfstyled<br />
“laboratory of<br />
art” is located in Gracia<br />
and throws on several<br />
concerts each month,<br />
typically ethnic jams by<br />
established musicians.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Manchester Bar (5<br />
Carrer de Milans) A<br />
cult fave among the<br />
alternative crowd, the<br />
“Manchester” part of the<br />
bar’s name is a clue to its<br />
soundtrack: Joy Division,<br />
Stone Roses and Oasis<br />
all feature heavily. A great<br />
place to start or end any<br />
pub crawl in El Gotico.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Wawas has a<br />
smorgasbord of gifts<br />
on display, from fridge<br />
magnets by local artists<br />
to tapas cookbooks and<br />
even the odd calendar.<br />
Needless to say, all are<br />
better than a T-shirt<br />
saying “My sister went<br />
to Barcelona...”<br />
(14 Carrer de Carders,<br />
wawasbarcelona.com).<br />
SEE It’s not quite<br />
Rio, but the Sitges<br />
Carnival (3–9 March)<br />
is nonetheless one<br />
HOTEL<br />
MODERNO<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
Tucked on a side<br />
street just 20m from<br />
Las Ramblas, you’ll<br />
fi nd this your perfect<br />
Barcelona base.<br />
Breakfast included.<br />
From €95, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
fantastic party. Everyone<br />
descends on the coastal<br />
resort in fancy dress<br />
and dances on the<br />
streets until dawn. The<br />
35-minute train ride<br />
from Barcelona will<br />
seem a lot easier going<br />
out than coming back<br />
with a sore head.<br />
GO The area above<br />
El Borne, known as La<br />
Ribera, is a perfect place<br />
to discover a quiet slice<br />
of Barcelona for yourself.<br />
Amid the narrow lanes,<br />
scenic squares and<br />
locally patroned cafés<br />
and bars, the splendid<br />
Palau Música Catalana<br />
rises up in all its redbrick<br />
Modernisme splendour<br />
(11 Carrer de Sant<br />
Pere Més Alt).<br />
ESCAPE The sacred<br />
mountain of Montserrat<br />
is one of the most<br />
popular day trips from<br />
Barcelona, thanks to its<br />
dramatic jagged rock<br />
face rising over the<br />
Benedictine Santa Maria<br />
abbey. The latter houses<br />
the famous 12thcentury<br />
Black Virgin<br />
statue and one of the<br />
oldest printing presses<br />
in the world. Trains<br />
leave frequently from<br />
Barcelona embarking on<br />
the hour-long journey.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
When Franco paid a<br />
visit to Palau Música<br />
Catalana in 1960, local<br />
rebels treated him to a<br />
rendition of a regional<br />
hymn in Catalan, a<br />
language the dictator<br />
had made illegal. Franco<br />
responded by having the<br />
perpetrators arrested.<br />
Duncan Rhodes/<br />
Barcelona-life.com
3195.1B<br />
THE ONLY SWISS LUXURY WATCH WITH A LATIN SOUL<br />
BASELWORLD <strong>2011</strong><br />
The World Watch and Jewellery Show<br />
HALL OF DREAMS<br />
HALL 1.0 / STAND A21<br />
www.cuervoysobrinos.com
114 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Bari<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Milan (MXP)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €25.<br />
Route 16 goes<br />
to the centre.<br />
Tickets: €0.77.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
NessunDorma (3 Via<br />
Fiume, tel: 080 522<br />
8825) A good, reliable<br />
lunch spot that serves<br />
a wide selection of<br />
pastas and local dishes.<br />
You won’t fi nd anything<br />
too fancy here, just<br />
good cheap grub.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Rococò<br />
(18 Via Ciaia, tel: 080<br />
483 4754) Set inside<br />
a stunning 1,400-yearold<br />
building, this<br />
restaurant is superb.<br />
The menu covers all<br />
tastes and the wine list<br />
is very healthy indeed.<br />
After dinner, retire to<br />
the piano bar for an<br />
Amaro or two.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Vinagre<br />
(47 Via Camillo<br />
Rosalba, tel: 080 504<br />
2844) Slightly off<br />
the beaten track, this<br />
excellent wine bar<br />
makes up for the trek<br />
with its good food. A<br />
cool, chilled-out place<br />
to kick off the evening.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Smaila’s Bari (154<br />
Via Principe Amedeo)<br />
Smaila’s is open from<br />
12.30am to 4am most<br />
nights of the week.<br />
Entrance is usually<br />
free, but on Saturdays<br />
the club sometimes<br />
hosts live acts and<br />
there’s a charge.<br />
Music-wise, it’s a bit<br />
of a mishmash – you<br />
can’t be sure quite<br />
what you’ll get – but<br />
that all adds to the fun.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Only a twominute<br />
walk from<br />
the Old Town, Borgo<br />
Murattiano and the<br />
surrounding area is<br />
a shoppers’ paradise.<br />
All the fashion<br />
boutiques and other<br />
Italian stalwarts can<br />
be found here.<br />
GO Visit Polignano a<br />
Mare, 38km from Bari.<br />
The ancient seaside<br />
town is stunning and<br />
has some of the best<br />
fi sh restaurants in<br />
Puglia. The Church of<br />
Santa Maria Assunta<br />
is a national treasure,<br />
as is the local historic<br />
art collection in the<br />
Presepe Chapel.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The beautiful Old<br />
Town of Bari claims<br />
to have the longest<br />
seafront in Italy.<br />
Max Keep<br />
Basel/<br />
Mulhouse/<br />
Freiburg<br />
Switzerland<br />
DIALLING CODE +41<br />
CURRENCY CHF<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Alicante,<br />
Amsterdam, Barcelona,<br />
Berlin, Bordeaux, Cagliari,<br />
Copenhagen, Corsica<br />
(Ajaccio), Dresden,<br />
Düsseldorf, Edinburgh,<br />
Gran Canaria, Hamburg,<br />
Istanbul, Lisbon, London<br />
(LGW), Madrid, Málaga,<br />
Marrakech, Nantes,<br />
Naples, Nice, Olbia,<br />
Rome (FCO), Porto,<br />
Pristina, Split, Tel Aviv,<br />
Thessaloniki, Venice<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
CHF40 to Basel and<br />
€40 to Mulhouse.<br />
Route 50 takes<br />
you to Basel’s<br />
main train station.<br />
Tickets: CHF3.80.<br />
In France, shuttles<br />
go to the station in<br />
Saint-Louis for trains to<br />
Mulhouse. Tickets: €1.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet infl ight rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Paul (62<br />
Rue des Clefs, Colmar,<br />
tel: 03 8924 1662)<br />
Cosy, dependable Paul<br />
is ideal for a coff ee,<br />
croissant or light meal<br />
at any time of the day.<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Restaurant<br />
Unterlinden (2 Rue<br />
des Unterlinden,<br />
Colmar, tel: 03 8941<br />
1873) Just next to the<br />
fantastic Unterlinden<br />
Museum, this quaint<br />
spot is one of the best<br />
places in the city to try<br />
fl ammekueche, the<br />
Alsatian version of pizza.<br />
UP TO €50 Der Vierte<br />
König (20 Blumenrain,<br />
Basel, tel: 06 1261<br />
5442) Next door to<br />
Basel’s luxurious Drei<br />
Könige (Three Kings)<br />
hotel, Der Vierte König<br />
(The Fourth King)<br />
off ers mid-priced<br />
cuisine at its best. With<br />
a rustic but stylish<br />
interior, an excellent<br />
menu and the best<br />
wine list of any Basel<br />
restaurant in its class.<br />
This is a local highlight.<br />
EXCLUSIVE St<br />
Alban-Eck (60 St<br />
Alban-Vorstadt, Basel,<br />
tel: 06 1271 0320)<br />
This little jewel is<br />
situated in a charming<br />
street parallel to the<br />
Rhine. The cuisine<br />
is imaginative<br />
and includes such<br />
temptations as cold<br />
melon and mint<br />
soup, grilled steak<br />
with chanterelles and<br />
chocolate souffl é<br />
on pistachio sauce.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Charlie’s<br />
Bar (26 Rue de la Sinne,<br />
Mulhouse, tel: 03 8966<br />
1222) This bar, with<br />
authentic art-nouveau<br />
décor and piano music<br />
from 1920s Paris, is the<br />
perfect place to start<br />
the evening with a glass<br />
of chilled Champagne.<br />
LIVE MUSIC Cargo<br />
Bar (46 St Johanns-<br />
Rheinweg, Basel, tel:<br />
06 1321 0072) Basel’s<br />
best-loved alternative<br />
to the larger venues.<br />
Three nights a week,<br />
this bar fi lls to capacity<br />
and spills out on to<br />
the riverbank as jazz<br />
and rock acts keep<br />
the neighbours up.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
The Annex (14<br />
Binningerstrasse, Basel,<br />
tel: 06 1564 6600)<br />
Fridays see relaxed<br />
reggae nights, while<br />
Saturdays feature<br />
house and guest DJs<br />
at the most exclusive<br />
garage in Basel. It’s<br />
one of the gems in<br />
the cluster of clubs<br />
around Basel Zoo.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP The masks,<br />
drums and piccolos<br />
of Basel Fasnacht<br />
(carnival) are<br />
BASEL<br />
FASNACHT<br />
GO Starting on 14<br />
March, with 72 hours<br />
of music, drinking,<br />
dancing and lots of<br />
fun, the Fasnacht is<br />
the event of the year.<br />
More than 12,000<br />
people take part each<br />
year (fasnacht.ch).<br />
wonderfully original,<br />
but you won’t make<br />
yourself popular making<br />
off ers to the locals on<br />
the street and there<br />
are no touts selling<br />
knock-off s. If you<br />
really want to take a<br />
sample home, consider<br />
respectfully inquiring<br />
at one of the boutiques<br />
that make them,<br />
such as Larveatelier<br />
d’Frau Fasnacht (30<br />
Blotzheimerstrasse).<br />
SEE Baselworld<br />
(24–31 March) is the<br />
world’s leading watch<br />
and jewellery show,<br />
with more than 2,100<br />
exhibitors from 40<br />
countries, and 94,000<br />
visitors in 2010.<br />
Fascinating if you know<br />
your Patek Philippe from<br />
your Rolex, rather dull<br />
if you never expect to<br />
have an extra €10,000<br />
to blow on diamonds<br />
(baselworld.com).<br />
ESCAPE Mulhouse’s<br />
carnival may not be<br />
as famous as Basel’s,<br />
but it does happen<br />
the week before, so if<br />
you’re in town from<br />
11–13 March check<br />
out the parades<br />
and fun (carnavalmulhouse.com).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Certainly Switzerland’s<br />
most spectacular<br />
winter rite, Chienbaese<br />
in Liestal (13 March) is<br />
a fi re parade in which<br />
men, women and<br />
children carry giant<br />
fl aming brooms and<br />
fl aming wagons through<br />
this small city – the<br />
youngest participant is<br />
off ered a prize!<br />
Richard Harvell
116 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Belfast<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Alicante,<br />
Amsterdam, Barcelona,<br />
Bristol, Edinburgh, Faro,<br />
Geneva, Glasgow, Ibiza,<br />
Krakow, Liverpool, London<br />
(LGW, LTN), Málaga,<br />
Malta, Newcastle, Majorca,<br />
Nice, Paris (CDG), Prague<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
BELFAST INT.<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £25.<br />
Translink run an<br />
Airbus service to<br />
the centre. Tickets: £7<br />
single; £10 return.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
CITY AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £8.<br />
Translink runs a<br />
service to the city<br />
centre, which leaves<br />
every 20 minutes.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Boojum<br />
(73 Botanic Avenue,<br />
tel: 028 9031 5334)<br />
This informal Mexican<br />
restaurant is the<br />
perfect spot if you<br />
fancy a quiet bite at<br />
lunch or dinner. The<br />
food is extremely<br />
fresh and the service<br />
is super-fast. A branch<br />
has also just opened in<br />
the city centre.<br />
UP TO €30<br />
McCracken’s (4 Joy’s<br />
Entry, tel: 028 9032<br />
6711) Tucked away just<br />
off the High Street,<br />
this stylish bar is a<br />
great place for a hearty<br />
lunch. The menu is<br />
pretty varied and the<br />
staff also serve a mean<br />
pint of Guinness.<br />
UP TO €50 La Boca<br />
(6 Fountain Street,<br />
tel: 028 9032 3087)<br />
If you’re in the mood<br />
for a good steak, why<br />
not check out this<br />
Argentine-inspired<br />
restaurant. The food is<br />
reasonably priced and<br />
the restaurant has<br />
a terrifi c atmosphere.<br />
EXCLUSIVE CoCo<br />
(7–11 Linenhall Street,<br />
tel: 028 9031 1150)<br />
Since it opened just<br />
over a year or so ago,<br />
this trendy eatery has<br />
quickly established<br />
itself as one of the<br />
places to be seen.<br />
The décor is pretty<br />
funky and the<br />
restaurant is located<br />
close to many of the<br />
city’s nightlife hotspots.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Ryan’s<br />
Bar & Grill (116–118<br />
Lisburn Road, tel: 028<br />
9050 9850) This<br />
small but perfectly<br />
formed bar is an<br />
ideal spot for a quiet<br />
drink. It has a cosy<br />
atmosphere and never<br />
seems to get too<br />
crowded. There is<br />
also an excellent<br />
restaurant upstairs.<br />
LIVE MUSIC The<br />
Black Box (18–22 Hill<br />
Street, tel: 028 9024<br />
4400) Located in the<br />
heart of the arty part<br />
of town known as the<br />
Cathedral Quarter, this<br />
über-cool live music<br />
venue has played host<br />
to some of the best<br />
up-and-coming bands<br />
throughout the land.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
The Northern Whig<br />
(2–10 Bridge Street,<br />
tel: 028 9050 9888) If<br />
you’re just getting your<br />
bearings in the city,<br />
the Northern Whig is<br />
a great place to base<br />
yourself. It’s busy most<br />
nights of the week<br />
and attracts a pretty<br />
diverse crowd.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP These days,<br />
no visit to Belfast is<br />
complete without a trip<br />
to the mega shopping<br />
centre Victoria Square.<br />
As well as being home<br />
JURYS INN<br />
BELFAST<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
Even more stylish<br />
after its recent<br />
refurbishment, this<br />
hotel is ideal for a<br />
trendy Belfast break.<br />
Breakfast included.<br />
From €82, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
to a host of designer<br />
stores, there’s also<br />
a free viewing dome<br />
which gives you a<br />
great view of the city<br />
(1 Victoria Square,<br />
tel: 028 9032 2277).<br />
SEE Although St<br />
Patrick’s Day has<br />
traditionally been<br />
a low-key aff air in<br />
Belfast, recently the<br />
celebrations have<br />
become more high<br />
profi le. On 17 March<br />
this year there will be<br />
a parade from the<br />
City Hall to Custom<br />
House Square leaving<br />
at noon, followed by<br />
a free concert.<br />
GO Often described<br />
as Belfast’s Notting<br />
Hill, Ormeau Road is a<br />
great place to eat and<br />
drink. It’s dotted with<br />
fantastic inexpensive<br />
restaurants and great<br />
traditional bars. The<br />
Errigle Inn comes highly<br />
recommend for a pint<br />
and Soul Food is great<br />
for a spot of lunch.<br />
ESCAPE Less than<br />
an hour’s drive from<br />
Belfast, the beautiful<br />
seaside town of<br />
Portaferry is well worth<br />
a visit. Enjoy a pint in<br />
one of the many bars,<br />
then take the short<br />
ferry ride across to the<br />
equally charming town<br />
of Strangford.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Belfast’s Sirocco<br />
Works invented air<br />
conditioning, and<br />
the city’s Royal<br />
Victoria Hospital was<br />
the world’s fi rst air<br />
conditioned building.<br />
Chris Sherry/<br />
Ulster Tatler<br />
Berlin<br />
Germany<br />
DIALLING CODE +49<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Amsterdam,<br />
Athens, Barcelona,<br />
Basel-Mulhouse, Bristol,<br />
Brussels, Budapest,<br />
Cagliari, Copenhagen,<br />
Corfu, Crete (Heraklion),<br />
Dubrovnik, Geneva,<br />
Glasgow, Gothenburg,<br />
Ibiza, Lisbon, Liverpool,<br />
London (LGW, LTN), Lyon,<br />
Madrid, Majorca, Málaga,<br />
Milan (MXP), Naples,<br />
Nice, Olbia, Paris (ORY),<br />
Pisa, Rome (CIA), Split,<br />
Thessaloniki, Venice<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €35.<br />
Express route<br />
SXF1 runs from<br />
outside Terminal A to the<br />
Südkreuz. Tickets: €6.<br />
The S-Bahn train<br />
leaves from the<br />
airport. Tickets: €2.80.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Ohlàlà<br />
Tartes-shop (18 Mainzer<br />
Strasse) On a street<br />
where squatters once<br />
battled police sits a<br />
pretty little shop run by<br />
a young French lady who<br />
bakes beautiful fresh<br />
quiches and sweet tarts<br />
every morning. Perfect<br />
for lunch after the nearby<br />
weekend Boxhagener<br />
Platz market.<br />
UP TO €30 Bar-<br />
Celona (2 Hannoversche<br />
Strasse, Mitte, tel: 030<br />
282 9153) This was the<br />
fi rst tapas bar to open<br />
in the eastern half of<br />
the city following the fall<br />
of the Berlin Wall, and<br />
it still pleases a wellheeled<br />
clientèle<br />
with its off erings of<br />
tempting Spanish<br />
delicacies and wines.<br />
UP TO €50 Gat<br />
Kitchen (81–82<br />
Mauerstrasse, tel: 030<br />
2067 1747) In<br />
a new Spanish designer<br />
hotel tucked away down<br />
a side street not far from<br />
Checkpoint Charlie,<br />
this retro yet futuristic<br />
little eatery actually<br />
serves some delicious<br />
Catalonian-style dinners<br />
conceived by trendy<br />
Spanish chefs Paula<br />
and Flip. The menu is a<br />
mix of seafood, which is<br />
normally hard to fi nd in<br />
Berlin, and quality meats<br />
such as entrecôte,<br />
served with good<br />
Spanish and German<br />
wines. Reservations<br />
are recommended.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Paris<br />
Moskau (141 Alt-Moabit,<br />
Tiergarten, tel: 030 394<br />
2081) Hidden in a<br />
small, half-timbered<br />
house in Tiergarten<br />
Park, near the massive<br />
new central station,<br />
this elegant yet<br />
unpretentious treasure<br />
boasts a winning<br />
combination of central<br />
European cooking<br />
and haute cuisine.
ONITSUKA TIGER<br />
STORE BERLIN<br />
If you love sneakers you shouldn't miss out on the<br />
flagship store of Japanese brand Onitsuka Tiger<br />
with its exciting ambiance of exceptional design,<br />
combining traditional and modern Japan.<br />
The perfect place to experience the sneaker, apparel<br />
and accessories collections that are inspired by<br />
the remarkable and long history of the brand.<br />
STORE BERLIN – MITTE<br />
ALTE SCHÖNHAUSER STR. 20 – 22 . 10119 BERLIN<br />
OPEN: MO – FR 11.00 – 19.30 & SA 11.00 – 19.00<br />
ONITSUKATIGER.COM
118 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Berlin<br />
Germany<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Tajik<br />
Tearoom (1st fl oor, 1<br />
Am Festungsgraben, tel:<br />
030 204 1112) This is<br />
the perfect place to<br />
stop after a stroll<br />
through the historical<br />
centre of Berlin. Take off<br />
your shoes and recline<br />
on cushions as you<br />
sip on tea from a<br />
samovar (teapot) in<br />
this ornate café just off<br />
Unter den Linden.<br />
LIVE MUSIC Kaff ee<br />
Burger (60 Torstrasse,<br />
Mitte, tel: 030 2804<br />
6495) This charming<br />
venue – a pub whose<br />
look hasn’t changed<br />
much since the<br />
Communist era – hosts<br />
intimate concerts<br />
most nights of the<br />
week and turns into<br />
a pretty raucous dance<br />
club after midnight,<br />
especially at the<br />
monthly hedonistic<br />
Russendisko parties.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Kleine Reise (8<br />
Spreewaldplatz) This<br />
Irish-run club below<br />
a hostel in the middle<br />
of Kreuzberg aims to<br />
be a haven for eclectic<br />
electronic music-lovers<br />
looking for a relaxed<br />
and fun-loving houseparty<br />
atmosphere.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Berlin Story<br />
was the fi rst bookshop<br />
catering to tourists<br />
on Unter den Linden.<br />
A far cry from the<br />
many tacky souvenir<br />
shops on Berlin’s main<br />
boulevard, this store<br />
THE MOST FAMOUS<br />
IRISH PUB IN BERLIN<br />
stocks hundreds<br />
of Berlin-related<br />
books in English and<br />
other languages<br />
(26 Unter den Linden,<br />
berlinstory.de).<br />
SEE The global<br />
theatre sensation Blue<br />
Man Group has an<br />
ongoing Berlin show<br />
at Potsdamer Platz.<br />
No German-language<br />
skills are required<br />
to marvel at these<br />
mad, blue-skinned<br />
entertainers<br />
(tel: 018 054 444,<br />
bluemangroup.de).<br />
GO Schloss<br />
Charlottenburg in<br />
the far west of the<br />
city was built by the<br />
Hohenzollern family<br />
as a country residence<br />
in the 17th century. Go<br />
inside and marvel at<br />
the ornate, baroque<br />
interiors – including<br />
a porcelain cabinet<br />
housing thousands<br />
of exquisite objects.<br />
The large formal<br />
gardens and park<br />
surrounding the palace<br />
are perfect for a stroll.<br />
ESCAPE The Garden<br />
Kingdom of Dessau-<br />
Wörlitz is a huge area of<br />
landscaped parks and<br />
palaces built in the 18th<br />
century. The UNESCO<br />
World Heritage Site is<br />
about an hour-anda-half<br />
drive south<br />
west of Berlin<br />
(gartenreich.com).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Berlin is an incredibly<br />
green city, with around<br />
one-third of the city<br />
composed of forests,<br />
parks, gardens,<br />
rivers and lakes.<br />
exberliner.com<br />
Biarritz<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW),<br />
Lyon, Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €13.<br />
The STAB runs<br />
hourly from<br />
7.30am. Tickets: €1.20.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 La<br />
Cidrerie Hernani (29<br />
Avenue Maréchal Joff re,<br />
tel: 05 5923 0101) This is<br />
a typical cider restaurant,<br />
with big wooden tables.<br />
Meat, fi sh and vegetable<br />
dishes and as much<br />
cider as you can drink<br />
are the order of the day.<br />
EXCLUSIVE La Ferme<br />
de Bassilour (Rue<br />
Burruntz, tel: 05 5941<br />
9085) If you’re in a big<br />
group, this is a unique<br />
experience. Help the chef<br />
create your gourmet<br />
dishes in this 16thcentury<br />
farmhouse, then<br />
dine on the perfectly<br />
executed dishes.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Le Royalty<br />
(13 Place Clémenceau)<br />
Le Royalty has an ideal<br />
central location, with<br />
British décor, where you<br />
can watch the world<br />
go by over a coff ee or<br />
cocktail. Popular with<br />
locals and tourists alike.<br />
LATE & LIVELY Le<br />
Bar Jean (5 Rue des<br />
Halles, tel: 05 5924<br />
8038) A very busy bar<br />
frequented by a lively<br />
crowd of locals drinking<br />
sangria and cocktails<br />
until the early hours.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO For a relaxing spa<br />
experience, head to<br />
Spa Kémana. Owned by<br />
international rugby star<br />
Serge Betsen, there’s<br />
an extensive range of<br />
treatments available (3<br />
Carrefour d’Hélianthe).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Napoléon III and Empress<br />
Eugénie built their<br />
holiday palace in Biarritz<br />
in 1854. The original<br />
palace burnt down in<br />
1870, but was rebuilt as<br />
the Hôtel du Palais.<br />
Steve Bilsborough<br />
RUE DES<br />
HALLES<br />
SHOP This food<br />
market is a treat for all<br />
the senses. Buy some<br />
fresh cheese, fruit<br />
and cold meats for a<br />
picnic. Stop off at Chez<br />
Etienne – the popular<br />
market café for a midmorning<br />
coff ee.<br />
Bilbao<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Ibiza, London<br />
(STN), Rome (FCO)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €28.<br />
Buses go to the<br />
city every 30<br />
minutes. Tickets: €1.25.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Restaurante Lasa (3<br />
Calle Diputación, tel: 94<br />
424 0103) A trendy little<br />
bar in the city centre,<br />
where a good selection<br />
of tasty tapas and a set<br />
lunchtime menu draw<br />
in the customers.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Restaurante Artagan<br />
(2 Plaza Moyua, tel: 94<br />
416 2200) Set within<br />
the Carlton Hotel,<br />
exquisite Artagan serves<br />
traditional Basque<br />
cuisine at its best. Wash<br />
down your meal with<br />
one of the great regional<br />
wines on off er.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Old Tavern<br />
(3 Rodríguez Arias,<br />
tel: 94 415 0744)<br />
A quaint and traditional<br />
English-style pub with<br />
a respectable selection<br />
of beers and a friendly,<br />
laidback atmosphere. A<br />
good place to start the<br />
night with the locals.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Café Boulevard (3<br />
Arenal, tel: 94 415 3128)<br />
Recently reopened<br />
after an extensive<br />
renovation, this stalwart<br />
is one of Bilbao’s most<br />
emblematic meeting<br />
points. Open until late<br />
at the weekends, there’s<br />
no surprise as to why<br />
it’s such a popular place<br />
with locals and visitors.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP El Mercado<br />
de la Ribera, next to<br />
the river, is reportedly<br />
the biggest indoor<br />
market in Europe. Fresh<br />
produce is delivered<br />
daily – from fruit and<br />
vegetables, meat and<br />
fi sh to cheeses, sweets<br />
and much more (every<br />
day except Sundays).<br />
SEE The carnival<br />
parades fl oat through<br />
various parts of the<br />
city centre from<br />
4–8 March. Check the<br />
posters for related<br />
events, such as<br />
concerts and street<br />
theatre, and join in the<br />
fun and dress up.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Athletic Club Bilbao<br />
is the only premier<br />
division football club<br />
in Europe with a noforeign-players<br />
policy<br />
– in fact, they don’t<br />
have any players<br />
from outside the<br />
Basque country!<br />
Katherine Bilsborough
The World of Personal Number Plates<br />
IS YOUR YOUR NAME HERE?<br />
ANC 3IL Ancell<br />
ANII ETT Annett<br />
ARII ETT Arlett<br />
BAK 3S Bakes<br />
B45 SET Basset<br />
BAS 5Y Bassy<br />
BAU 6H Baugh<br />
BAX 773R Baxter<br />
BEA 73R Beater<br />
B33 LEY Beeley<br />
BOO 7S Boots<br />
BOY IIE Boyne<br />
BUR 53Y Bursey<br />
C4I5 LEY Caisley<br />
CAII ARD Callard<br />
CAR 355S Caress<br />
C42I TON Carlton<br />
CAW 53R Cawser<br />
CHA 2D Chard<br />
CI0 AKE Cloake<br />
COA 70N Coaton<br />
COL 570N Colston<br />
COR 33N Coreen<br />
COW 3Y Cowey<br />
CRE 3D Creed<br />
CRII SPS Crisps<br />
CRII DEN Cruden<br />
CUII EYS Culley<br />
CUII LUM Cullum<br />
DAB I3S Dabbs<br />
D4II TON Danton<br />
DAV I7T Davitt<br />
D34 NOS Dean<br />
D3I0 RES Delores<br />
DEL 7A Delta<br />
D3 MBY Demby<br />
DEN 8I6H Denbigh<br />
DEN 5I3Y Densley<br />
DER II4M Derham<br />
DEV 350N Deveson<br />
DON 47A Donata<br />
DOO 94N Doogan<br />
DOO I3Y Dooley<br />
DOR 64N Dorgan<br />
DUR 4N Duran<br />
EAG 4R Eagar<br />
E8 DEN Ebden<br />
ELV 7N Elvyn<br />
EME I2Y Emery<br />
EII OCH Enoch<br />
EUN I6E Eunice<br />
FAL 647E Falgate<br />
F34 NEY Feaney<br />
FFII TCH Fitch<br />
FLE 770N Fletton<br />
FOR 5T Forst<br />
F2 OWD Frowd<br />
G48 BEY Gabbey<br />
G4 LES Gales<br />
GEII DER Gelder<br />
GEII ARD Gellard<br />
GEL I3R Geller<br />
G3 YER Geyer<br />
6I NAS Gina<br />
GI53 LLE Giselle<br />
GLE 3K Gleek<br />
GOU 6E Gouge<br />
GOV 3Y Govey<br />
GI20 VES Groves<br />
GUS 74V Gustav<br />
GWII YMS Gwilym<br />
HAG 3R Hager<br />
HAL 73R Halter<br />
HAR 647E Hargate<br />
HAW I7T Hawitt<br />
H38 NER Hebner<br />
Leonardo Royal Hotel Berlin - close to the Alexanderplatz.<br />
The Hotel. In a whole new dimension.<br />
Restaurant »Vitruv«. Bar/Lounge »Leo90«. Wellness Lounge.<br />
* Price per single room/night excl. breakfast, based on request and availability.<br />
www.leonardo-hotels.com<br />
HED 6I3Y Hedgley<br />
HER 832T Herbert<br />
HOD 637T Hodgett<br />
JAN 377A Janetta<br />
JAY IIIE Jayne<br />
JOII ENE Jolene<br />
KAT 2IN Katrin<br />
K34 BLE Keable<br />
K3I RON Keiron<br />
KEL 8Y Kelby<br />
KEII ARD Kellard<br />
K3II OCK Kellock<br />
K3I TON Kelton<br />
K3I VEY Kelvey<br />
KEN 2I7T Kenzitt<br />
KEY 7E Keyte<br />
KOB 3R Kober<br />
LAT 7A Latta<br />
LEA I4N Lealan<br />
LEN IE Lenie<br />
LEII ORA Lenora<br />
LEO IIA Leona<br />
LUM 8Y Lumby<br />
LYA IL Lyall<br />
LYN 377E Lynette<br />
MAG I23T Magret<br />
MAY I3S Mayles<br />
MCS 74Y Mcstay<br />
MEA 60R Meagor<br />
MED I4M Medlam<br />
M3II ORS Mellors<br />
M3I ONY Melony<br />
MEW 37T Mewett<br />
MOG 6E Mogge<br />
MOII GER Monger<br />
MOS 70N Moston<br />
MOY 53Y Moysey<br />
MUII DAY Munday<br />
NAII RNE Nairne<br />
NEV 4Y Nevay<br />
NEV I7T Nevitt<br />
NUR 55E Nurse<br />
OBR 4Y Obray<br />
OKA IIE Okane<br />
PA55 WAY Passway<br />
PAY 3T Payet<br />
POII EYS Polley<br />
RAII KEN Ranken<br />
RED 570N Redston<br />
RUII TEN Rulten<br />
SAII NTY Sainty<br />
S4II UEL Samuel<br />
S64 RFF Scarff<br />
SHE 22IN Sherrin<br />
S73 EDS Steeds<br />
STO 88S Stobbs<br />
S7 OKE Stoke<br />
SWA 770N Swatton<br />
T47 TAM Tattam<br />
TEE 6E Teece<br />
TII0 RBY Thorby<br />
7 OKE Toke<br />
TOR I3Y Torley<br />
TOW 53Y Towsey<br />
TWII GGE Twigge<br />
V4I LEY Valley<br />
VAR 3IA Varela<br />
W4 LKE Walke<br />
BWA I5H Walsh<br />
W35 SON Wesson<br />
W357 CAR Westcar<br />
WII4 RAM Wharam<br />
WHE 47E Wheate<br />
WHE II3R Wheller<br />
Y3 ATS Yeats<br />
YOII DEN Youden<br />
FREE MAGAZINE<br />
01582 477333<br />
8am-10pm • 7 days<br />
Regtransfers.co.uk<br />
PERSONAL NUMBER PLATES<br />
from<br />
79,- Euro*
120 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Birmingham<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Geneva, Grenoble<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £20.<br />
Trains leave every<br />
10 minutes for<br />
the centre. Tickets: £3<br />
single; £6 return.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 The<br />
Oriental (The Mailbox,<br />
128–130 Wharfside<br />
Street, tel: 0121 633<br />
9988) Its canalside<br />
location, opulent décor,<br />
attentive service and<br />
a wide range of Thai,<br />
Malaysian and Chinese<br />
dishes make The Oriental<br />
a popular option. More<br />
unusual highlights<br />
include salt and chilli soft<br />
shell crab or squid.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Bluu Bar<br />
& Restaurant (Islington<br />
Gates, Summer Row,<br />
tel: 0121 236 9013)<br />
Serving everything<br />
from succulent rib-eye<br />
steaks to modern tapas<br />
dishes, Bluu caters to all<br />
appetites in stylish, retro<br />
surrounds. The Sunday<br />
lunches – brimming<br />
plates of roast meat and<br />
trimmings – are great.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Black<br />
Eagle Pub (16 Factory<br />
Road, tel: 0121 523<br />
4008) If you’re craving<br />
a quiet drink in a<br />
traditional pub, you can’t<br />
go wrong with the Black<br />
Eagle. This welcoming<br />
boozer dishes up hearty<br />
pub food and real ale.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Gatecrasher (182<br />
Upper Broad Street, tel:<br />
0121 633 1520) Don<br />
your coolest outfi t and<br />
dance the night away<br />
at this chic Miami-style<br />
venue, with four club<br />
rooms, nine bars and<br />
three permanent club<br />
nights (Monday, Friday<br />
and Saturday).<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Turn heads in<br />
a unique outfi t from<br />
independent menswear<br />
boutique Disorder, which<br />
has recently received<br />
a host of awards<br />
(14 Needless Alley,<br />
disorderboutique.com).<br />
SEE If you’re a fan<br />
of UK TV drama<br />
Coronation Street, the<br />
New Alexandra Theatre<br />
could be the place for<br />
you. The amibitious<br />
play Corrie! attempts<br />
to bring 50 years of the<br />
soap opera to the stage.<br />
From 21–26 March<br />
(Station Street).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Some of the stunning<br />
art deco carriages of<br />
the Venice Simplon<br />
Orient-Express were<br />
built in Birmingham.<br />
Jenny McKelvie<br />
4 JBN 2 WJG 7 PCL<br />
I0 CDP 4 HMR I WGG<br />
4 AFL 3 BNS 8 PGA<br />
2 EHJ II ATL 6 RBL<br />
9 CSG I NTJ 4 FSD<br />
Bologna<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
The Aerobus runs<br />
every 15 minutes.<br />
Tickets: €5<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 E’ Cucina<br />
Senzanome (42A Via<br />
Senzanome, tel: 051<br />
275 0069) Low-cost,<br />
high-quality food is<br />
served at this quirky<br />
restaurant. Just decide<br />
on a menu of meat, fi sh<br />
or veg, then leave the<br />
details to the chef.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Al<br />
Pappagallo (3 Piazza<br />
della Mercanzia, tel: 051<br />
232 807) In a choice<br />
position, right by the<br />
two towers, this historic<br />
restaurant off ers a<br />
mouthwatering selection<br />
of local and creative<br />
dishes and an extensive<br />
wine list. The house<br />
lasagne is delicious.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Chez Baker<br />
(7A Via Polese) Bologna’s<br />
most historic jazz<br />
location draws musicians<br />
and enthusiasts from<br />
all over the world to its<br />
intimate cellar. Good<br />
local food is served too.<br />
LATE & LIVELY La<br />
Scuderia (2 Piazza<br />
Verdi, tel: 051 656 9619)<br />
In the heart of Bologna’s<br />
lively university district,<br />
this place occupies 14thcentury<br />
stables. Open<br />
from 8am, it comes into<br />
its own after dark.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Chocolates and<br />
sweets that look as good<br />
as they taste fi ll the oldfashioned<br />
shelves lining<br />
the walls at Gilberto.<br />
Downstairs there’s a wellstocked<br />
wine and liqueur<br />
section (5 Via Drapperie).<br />
SEE Head to the<br />
exhibition centre for<br />
Cosmoprof – one of<br />
the world’s premier<br />
beauty events. You’ll fi nd<br />
demonstrations of the<br />
latest techniques and<br />
products. From 18–21<br />
March (cosmoprof.com).<br />
Sarah Lane<br />
SKY<br />
SCRAPERS<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Bologna’s skyline<br />
was once thick with<br />
towers. Of the 100<br />
or so built as status<br />
symbols during the<br />
Middle Ages, only<br />
around 20 still<br />
survive today.<br />
Bordeaux<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Bristol, Geneva, Liverpool,<br />
London (LGW, LTN), Lyon,<br />
Madrid, Milan (MXP)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €35.<br />
The Jetbus goes<br />
to Gare St Jean<br />
station. Tickets: €7. Line<br />
1 Bus goes to Place des<br />
Quinconces every 20<br />
minutes. Tickets: €1.40<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Comptoir<br />
Cuisine (2 Place de la<br />
Comédie, tel: 05 5656<br />
2233) This recently<br />
opened bistronomique<br />
places an emphasis on<br />
seasonal produce and<br />
traditional recipes. Sit<br />
at the counter to watch<br />
the chefs at work, or<br />
linger on the terrace<br />
overlooking the opera.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Chez<br />
Greg – Le Grand<br />
Theatre (29 Rue Esprit<br />
des Lois, tel: 05 5631<br />
3030) Enjoy the best<br />
food that south west<br />
France has to off er in<br />
modern surroundings.<br />
Specialities include<br />
oysters from the nearby<br />
Bassin d’Arcachon<br />
and duck grilled over<br />
the chimney fi re.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Chez<br />
Pompon (4 Cours du<br />
Verdun, tel: 05 5652<br />
5492) A restaurant by<br />
day, this well-known local<br />
institution becomes a<br />
bar in the evening, often<br />
with DJs on Thursdays<br />
and Fridays. A popular<br />
spot for an aperitif.<br />
LATE & LIVELY Wine<br />
Not (20 Rue des Piliers<br />
de Tutelle) This new<br />
bar has something for<br />
everyone. Drop by at the<br />
end of the day for a glass<br />
of wine or Champagne,<br />
have dinner in the bistro<br />
or stay late for dancing.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP With a wonderful<br />
selection of classic toys,<br />
clothes and accessories<br />
for children, you’re sure<br />
to fi nd a gift for the little<br />
ones back home at Le<br />
Petit Souk (26 Rue du<br />
Pas Saint Georges).<br />
SEE The Salon des<br />
Vins des Vignerons<br />
Indépendants runs from<br />
11–13 March, where<br />
you get the chance<br />
to sample and buy<br />
wines from 12 French<br />
wine regions (Parc des<br />
Expositions, vigneronindependant.com).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Dating from the 1400s,<br />
the spire of St Michel<br />
stretches almost 114m<br />
high, making it the<br />
tallest bell tower in<br />
south west France.<br />
Caroline Matthews<br />
The World of Personal Number Plates<br />
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01582 477333<br />
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122 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Bournemouth<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Geneva<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £16.<br />
The A1 shuttle bus<br />
runs to the main<br />
square, hourly from<br />
7am–7pm. Tickets: £4.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Vesuvio<br />
(Seafront, Alum Chine,<br />
tel: 01202 759 100)<br />
Right on the beach, big<br />
and bustling Vesuvio<br />
packs in the punters for<br />
its traditional and fi lling<br />
Italian cuisine. The pizzas<br />
and Italian ice creams<br />
are a big hit with children.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Pebble<br />
Beach (Marine Drive,<br />
Barton-on-Sea, tel:<br />
01425 627 777) A few<br />
miles east of town,<br />
Pebble Beach is one of<br />
the most highly rated<br />
restaurants in the area,<br />
with dazzling sea views<br />
and sumptuous dishes<br />
such as seabass with<br />
tiger prawns in saff ron<br />
sauce and smoked duck<br />
breast. Don’t forget to<br />
leave time for a cocktail.<br />
Serravalle<br />
Golf Hotel<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Sixty<br />
Million Postcards<br />
(19–21 Exeter Road, tel:<br />
01202 292 697) This<br />
cool and casual bar has<br />
big comfy sofas, cosy<br />
booths, board games,<br />
decent bar food and<br />
occasional live music.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
The Old Firestation (36<br />
Holdenhurst Road, tel:<br />
01202 963 889) Set in<br />
a Grade II-listed former<br />
fi re station, this is a top<br />
student club, which also<br />
hosts a diverse array<br />
of DJ nights and live<br />
music. Past guests have<br />
included Scouting for<br />
Girls and Dizzee Rascal.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Check out the<br />
amazing, largely locally<br />
produced chocolates<br />
and confectionary<br />
at Priorys, a tiny<br />
traditional chocolate<br />
shop (1A Castle<br />
Street, Christchurch).<br />
SEE Chris Wood<br />
performs as part of<br />
the Bournemouth<br />
Folk Festival at the<br />
International Centre on<br />
12 March. Other diverse<br />
BIC highlights in March<br />
include The Circus<br />
of Horrors (6th), The<br />
Bootleg Beatles (10th),<br />
McFly (23rd) and the<br />
Moscow Ballet (28th)<br />
(tel: 01202 456 400).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
One of Scotland’s fi nest<br />
writers, Robert Louis<br />
Stevenson, actually<br />
wrote most of his best<br />
works when he lived<br />
in Bournemouth from<br />
1884 to 1887.<br />
Matthew Hancock<br />
Brest<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Lyon, Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
Buses stop at<br />
Saint Luc and the<br />
city centre. Tickets: €5.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Gout<br />
d’Soleil (20 Rue Louis<br />
Blanc, tel: 02 9805<br />
3692) This is a great little<br />
Portuguese place serving<br />
dishes from around the<br />
Mediterranean as well<br />
as all your Portuguese<br />
favourites. Try the<br />
Brazilian-style cassoulet<br />
or the selection of tapas.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
La Fleur du Sel (15<br />
bis Rue de Lyon, tel: 02<br />
9844 3865) The menu<br />
changes often at this<br />
sophisticated venue with<br />
classic décor and thick<br />
white tablecloths. Try<br />
the partridge in pastry,<br />
the veal with wild<br />
asparagus or the fi sh.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY La Maison<br />
Blanche (2840 Route<br />
Sainte-Anne-du-Portzic,<br />
tel: 02 9845 8210)<br />
This is a great place<br />
for a drink after a<br />
bracing walk along the<br />
promenade and, if you<br />
fancy it, a snack and a<br />
relaxed game of darts or<br />
petanque (bowls).<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Vinomania<br />
is a wine shop with a<br />
diff erence – open until<br />
11pm, it off ers free<br />
tasting and has boxes<br />
of the local vineyards’<br />
fi nest (34 Quai Malbert).<br />
SEE Anticodes is a<br />
mixed performance<br />
arts festival that takes<br />
place simultaneously in<br />
Lyon, Paris and Brest.<br />
Performances range<br />
from cult to culture. From<br />
3 March (anticodes.fr).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Brest was fought over<br />
for many years by the<br />
British and the French,<br />
but has now been under<br />
French rule for more<br />
than four centuries.<br />
Samantha David<br />
LATE &<br />
LIVELY<br />
Le Tour du Monde<br />
(Port de Plaisance du<br />
Moulin-Blanc) Friday<br />
and Saturday nights<br />
see the crowd singing<br />
and dancing on the<br />
bar, and if there’s<br />
a big match on, this<br />
lot will be cheering.<br />
Brindisi<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Geneva, Milan<br />
(MXP), Paris (ORY)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
Local STP buses<br />
leave every 30<br />
minutes. Tickets: €0.80.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Notti<br />
Bianche (47 Via Arc<br />
Zaccaria, tel: 0831 339<br />
469) Extremely good<br />
value can be found at<br />
this simple yet elegant<br />
little restaurant. It prides<br />
itself on using totally<br />
Neapolitan ingredients<br />
and claims to serve the<br />
best pizzas in town.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
La Poeta Contadino<br />
(21 Via Indipendenza,<br />
Alberobello, tel: 080 432<br />
1917) Tucked between<br />
stone arches and old<br />
farm walls, this ancientlooking<br />
restaurant oozes<br />
character. The cavatelli<br />
(pasta) and gnocchi are<br />
excellent, as are any of<br />
the seafood dishes. It’s<br />
simple, wholesome<br />
and full of locals.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Bar<br />
Garden (5 Via Martiri<br />
di Cefalonia) The chefs<br />
here make exceptional<br />
stuzzichini (appetisers)<br />
and the barman really<br />
knows how to mix his<br />
cocktails. A pleasant<br />
afternoon bar that<br />
picks up later on.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Stone’s Café (Via<br />
Tevere, Torre Santa<br />
Sabina) This is a good<br />
bar to head to with its<br />
leather sofas, roaring<br />
fi res, good food and<br />
healthy selection of ontap<br />
beverages. DJs play<br />
at the weekends.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Shop on<br />
l’Appia dei Vini on a<br />
drive through several<br />
vineyard communes<br />
fi nishing in Brindisi.<br />
Visit Masseria Asciano,<br />
Coopir De Laurentis<br />
along with many more.<br />
Buy a bottle at each<br />
stop and you’ll be set for<br />
the rest of the holiday.<br />
SEE Head to Murgia<br />
Materana for a peek<br />
into the ancient Puglian<br />
past. Set in stunning<br />
countryside, here you’ll<br />
fi nd Neolithic history<br />
the likes of which you<br />
don’t get to see so close<br />
anywhere else.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The Madonna di<br />
Pozzo Faceto is the<br />
protectress of Fasano.<br />
In June 1678, the people<br />
of Fasano defeated<br />
the Turks in battle.<br />
According to legend, the<br />
Madonna appeared and<br />
inspired victory.<br />
Max Keep
Avec<br />
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à partir de 30€ *<br />
1 VOL QUOTIDIEN PARIS - BREST<br />
5 VOLS PAR SEMAINE LYON - BREST<br />
* ttc l’aller simple, tarifs soumis à conditions sous réserve de disponibilités.<br />
www.brest.aeroport.fr<br />
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124 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Bristol<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Alicante,<br />
Amsterdam, Barcelona,<br />
Belfast (BFS), Berlin,<br />
Bodrum, Bordeaux,<br />
Corfu, Crete<br />
(Heraklion), Cyprus<br />
(Paphos), Dalaman,<br />
Edinburgh, Faro,<br />
Fuerteventura, Geneva,<br />
Glasgow, Grenoble,<br />
Ibiza, Innsbruck,<br />
Inverness, Krakow, La<br />
Rochelle, Lisbon, Lyon,<br />
Madeira, Madrid,<br />
Majorca, Málaga,<br />
Marseille, Menorca,<br />
Murcia, Newcastle,<br />
Nice, Olbia, Paris (CDG),<br />
Pisa, Prague, Rome<br />
(CIA), Salzburg, Split,<br />
Tenerife, Toulouse<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £25.<br />
The Bristol<br />
International Flyer<br />
goes to Temple Meads<br />
train station, Bristol Bus<br />
Station and Clifton, with<br />
stops around the city.<br />
Tickets: £6–£7 single.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 The<br />
Village Pottery (70<br />
Princess Victoria Street,<br />
tel: 0117 973 4343) Run<br />
by potter Jen Hamilton,<br />
this is a quirky mix of<br />
a studio, gallery and<br />
coff ee bar. Pop in for<br />
a cup of Fairtrade tea<br />
or coff ee and a slice of<br />
cake, browse the items<br />
on display after you’ve<br />
tasted the tasty nibbles,<br />
then splash out on one of<br />
Jen’s fantastic creations.<br />
UP TO €30 Las<br />
Iguanas (113 Whiteladies<br />
Road, tel: 0117 973<br />
0730) This is one of a<br />
chain of Latin-inspired<br />
restaurants and bars<br />
found up and down the<br />
UK, with mouthwatering<br />
food, the freshest<br />
ingredients and plenty of<br />
fl air from the staff . The<br />
signature dish, Xinxim<br />
Brazilian lime chicken,<br />
is apparently a favourite<br />
of football legend Pele.<br />
UP TO €50 Bordeaux<br />
Quay (V-Shed, Canons<br />
Way, tel: 0117 943 1200)<br />
A harbourside venue<br />
housed in an elegant,<br />
converted warehouse on<br />
the glistening waterfront,<br />
Bordeaux Quay off ers<br />
the very best in seasonal,<br />
regionally sourced food<br />
and drink, for those<br />
wishing to experience<br />
the tastes of England’s<br />
green south west.<br />
EXCLUSIVE The<br />
Orangery at Tortworth<br />
Court (Wottonunder-Edge,<br />
South<br />
Gloucestershire, tel:<br />
01454 263 000) The<br />
Orangery is committed<br />
to serving locally<br />
sourced produce, with<br />
much of it coming from<br />
the Tortworth Estate,<br />
right on the doorstep<br />
of this venue. Seasonal<br />
menus refl ect the best of<br />
modern British cuisine<br />
and are complemented<br />
by an accessible wine list.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY The Grain<br />
Barge (Mardyke Wharf,<br />
Hotwells Road, tel: 0117<br />
929 9347) This historic<br />
converted barge is<br />
a great place for a<br />
relaxed drink. Serving<br />
award-winning real ales,<br />
it’s also famed for its<br />
regular live music<br />
every Friday in the<br />
downstairs Hold Bar.<br />
LIVE MUSIC The Old<br />
Duke (45 King Street,<br />
tel: 0117 927 7137) A<br />
traditional Bristol pub<br />
that boasts friendly<br />
service and locally<br />
sourced ales. Catch<br />
world-class blues and<br />
jazz acts every night<br />
of the week, as well as<br />
Sunday lunchtimes.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Jongleurs Comedy<br />
Club (28 Baldwin Street,<br />
tel: 0870 011 1960)<br />
Shows run every Friday<br />
and Saturday followed<br />
TYNTESFIELD<br />
ESTATE<br />
ESCAPE The house,<br />
chapel, gardens and<br />
woodland make for<br />
an inspiring day of<br />
discovery. This year the<br />
new Home Farm visitor<br />
centre is open. The day<br />
out is just 20 minutes<br />
from Bristol.<br />
by an after-show disco<br />
until 3am. The venue<br />
off ers extensive dining<br />
options and the ground<br />
fl oor, Bar Eton, is the<br />
perfect place to meet for<br />
a pre-show drink.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Established<br />
in 1743, St Nicholas<br />
Market is the oldest and<br />
best-loved market in<br />
Bristol. The vibrant and<br />
buzzing marketplace<br />
can be found in the<br />
heart of the old city.<br />
Many visitors choose to<br />
pick up a few items here<br />
then head to the local<br />
parks for an alfresco<br />
snack (Corn Street).<br />
SEE All About Us –<br />
with over 50 new or<br />
signifi cantly enhanced<br />
exhibits – is an unusual<br />
celebration of all things<br />
human that helps people<br />
discover how amazing<br />
their brains and bodies<br />
are. Starts 10 March<br />
(At Bristol, Anchor Road,<br />
tel: 0845 345 1235).<br />
GO Southville is a<br />
popular spot to enjoy<br />
a relaxing drink and<br />
some great food. North<br />
Street is the centre of<br />
most of the activity, with<br />
many bars, cafés and<br />
restaurants buzzing<br />
with activity. The iconic<br />
Tobacco Factory can<br />
also be found in the area<br />
– a distinct red brick<br />
building, which is now a<br />
performance art space.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Comedian Justin Lee<br />
Collins is a resident of<br />
Bristol and can often be<br />
seen out and about.<br />
Chris Savage/<br />
Destination Bristol<br />
Brussels<br />
Belgium<br />
DIALLING CODE +32<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Berlin, Geneva,<br />
Liverpool, Lyon, Milan<br />
(MXP), Nice<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €35.<br />
Every 20 minutes,<br />
routes 12 and 21<br />
go to Schuman metro<br />
station. Tickets: €3<br />
(€5 on the bus).<br />
Trains depart<br />
every 15 minutes.<br />
Tickets: €5 single;<br />
€10 return.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Le Pain<br />
Quotidien (16 Rue<br />
Antoine Dansaert, tel:<br />
02 502 2361) This is<br />
always a great place<br />
for brunch. You can<br />
sit around a<br />
communal table and<br />
order an assortment<br />
of pastries and<br />
dishes. This particular<br />
branch is the fi rst one<br />
that Alain Coumont<br />
opened in 1990. His<br />
objective was to open<br />
a place that makes<br />
organic bread in<br />
a traditional way.<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Darjeeling (160 Rue<br />
Stevin, tel: 02 230 1361)<br />
This restaurant off ers<br />
a wide variety of Indian<br />
dishes and is located a<br />
stone’s throw from the<br />
European quarter.<br />
UP TO €50 La<br />
Crèche des Artistes<br />
(21 Rue de la Crèche,<br />
tel: 02 511 2256) The<br />
food served at this<br />
Italian restaurant is<br />
fantastic throughout,<br />
but the black truffl e<br />
risotto deserves<br />
a special mention.<br />
The redbrick walls and<br />
extensive wine selection<br />
on display in wooden<br />
casks also give this<br />
place a pleasant rustic<br />
and warm atmosphere.<br />
EXCLUSIVE La<br />
Paix (49 Rue Ropsy-<br />
Chaudron, tel: 02<br />
523 0958) It’s never<br />
easy to get a table at<br />
chef David Martin’s<br />
Michelin-starred<br />
brasserie. It’s only<br />
open from Monday<br />
to Friday for lunch,<br />
and Friday evenings<br />
for dinner, and the<br />
length of the waiting<br />
list for reservations<br />
can be discouraging.<br />
But don’t give up<br />
hope! Persevere, try<br />
the Simmental beef,<br />
however, and you’ll<br />
understand why it’s<br />
worth the eff ort.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Monk<br />
(42 Rue St-Catherine,<br />
tel: 02 503 0880)<br />
With its defi nite pub<br />
feel, this Belgian<br />
brasserie is a great<br />
spot to begin the<br />
night and mingle with<br />
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the easy-going and<br />
diverse crowd. There<br />
are both non-smoking<br />
and smoking areas.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Madame Moustache<br />
(5–7 Quai au Bois à<br />
Brûler, tel: 04 8553<br />
4494) Tremendously<br />
popular since it<br />
opened in 2010, this<br />
venue manages to<br />
combine a bohemian<br />
atmosphere with<br />
great live music. Once<br />
the bands are done,<br />
DJs take over with<br />
an eclectic mix to<br />
make sure the party<br />
continues late into<br />
the night.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
The Flat (12 Rue de<br />
la Reinette, tel: 04<br />
9590 3203) As the<br />
name of this bar<br />
indicates, the top<br />
fl oor is decorated to<br />
look just like a fl at.<br />
You can enjoy a<br />
cocktail while relaxing<br />
on the bed or even<br />
sit in the bath. The<br />
music pumps late<br />
into the night and<br />
drink prices are<br />
subject to stock<br />
exchange variations.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP With glazed<br />
arcaded storefronts<br />
and light pouring in<br />
through the glass roof,<br />
the Galeries Royales<br />
St-Hubert is defi nitely<br />
worth a stroll even if<br />
you’re not shopping.<br />
If you are, however,<br />
this 19th-century<br />
arcade has plenty of<br />
luxurious shops, cafés<br />
and restaurants.<br />
SEE Check out the<br />
European quarter<br />
<br />
<br />
near Schuman<br />
roundabout –<br />
the European<br />
Commission, Council<br />
and Parliament are<br />
all within a few<br />
minutes’ walk of each<br />
another. While you’re<br />
in the area, take<br />
a trip to the Royal<br />
Belgian Institute of<br />
Natural Sciences,<br />
which has a great<br />
exhibition called<br />
BiodiverCity on<br />
throughout March<br />
(29 Rue Vautier,<br />
naturalsciences.be).<br />
GO Meander<br />
in the Parc du<br />
Cinquantenaire<br />
and take a look at<br />
the triumphal arch<br />
erected in 1905.<br />
Around the park<br />
there are various<br />
museums and the<br />
city’s largest mosque.<br />
ESCAPE Head<br />
to Ghent and walk<br />
around its car-free<br />
area – the largest in<br />
Belgium – and you’ll<br />
soon fi nd out why it’s<br />
often said to be as<br />
beautiful as Bruges.<br />
Check out St Bavo<br />
cathedral and the<br />
church of St Nicholas.<br />
Once you’re done,<br />
hop on a tour boat<br />
and ask the guide<br />
about the city’s<br />
secrets. One of the<br />
best things about<br />
Ghent is that it’s<br />
barely 35 minutes<br />
by train from Brussels.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Brussels truly is an<br />
international city –<br />
27% of the population<br />
are foreigners.<br />
Gaspard Sebag<br />
Bucharest<br />
Romania<br />
DIALLING CODE +40<br />
CURRENCY Leu (RON)<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Madrid,<br />
Milan (MXP)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs RON100.<br />
Bus 783 leaves<br />
every 30 minutes.<br />
Tickets: RON8.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Taverna<br />
La Zavat (16 Strada<br />
Popa Nan, tel: 021 252<br />
2956) Currently the<br />
city’s most talked about<br />
seafood restaurant, La<br />
Zavat is packed most<br />
evenings with small<br />
groups of friends sharing<br />
big plates of fi sh and<br />
seafood. There are also<br />
great salads and a fi ne<br />
selection of local wine.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Osho<br />
(19–21 Bulevardul<br />
Primaverii, tel: 021 568<br />
3031) At this butcher’s<br />
shop you can pick your<br />
chops or steak (all the<br />
meat is sourced in<br />
Romania), then send<br />
them to be cooked just<br />
how you like. Set in<br />
Bucharest’s swankiest<br />
neighbourhood, prices<br />
are high but value for<br />
money is guaranteed.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Divan (46–<br />
48 Strada Franceza, tel:<br />
021 312 3034) Possibly<br />
the hippest café in the<br />
Old Town, this place<br />
is usually packed with<br />
young locals drinking<br />
coff ee and cocktails and<br />
smoking hookah pipes<br />
from the comfort of<br />
some funky armchairs.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Kulturhaus (4 Strada<br />
Sf Vineri, tel: 021 313<br />
5592) This two-level<br />
arthouse club attracts<br />
a young, friendly crowd<br />
of party people. Expect<br />
a diff erent event each<br />
night of the week,<br />
from live rock and<br />
folk bands to DJs<br />
and themed parties.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Everything sold<br />
at Idelier – a one-stop<br />
shop for clothes, shoes,<br />
accessories and quirky<br />
bits and pieces – is<br />
made and designed in<br />
Romania (1 Bulevardul<br />
Lascar Cartagiu).<br />
SEE Casa Melik is<br />
the oldest house in<br />
Bucharest. Built between<br />
1750 and 1760, today<br />
it’s home to a museum<br />
dedicated to the<br />
Romanian early cubist<br />
artist Theodor Pallady<br />
(22 Strada Spatarului).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Romania’s witches now<br />
have to pay tax following<br />
the introduction of a<br />
labour law that defi nes<br />
fortune-telling and<br />
astrology as professions.<br />
Craig Turp<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 125<br />
Budapest<br />
Hungary<br />
DIALLING CODE +36<br />
CURRENCY Forint (HUF)<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Berlin, Dortmund,<br />
Geneva, London (LGW,<br />
LTN), Paris (ORY)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
HUF3,500–HUF5,400.<br />
Trains leave for<br />
Western station.<br />
Tickets: HUF455.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 APA Cuka<br />
(5 Horánszky Utca) APA<br />
Cuka is an arty space in<br />
a restored pipe factory<br />
that combines artists’<br />
studios, a live music bar<br />
ART’OTEL<br />
BUDAPEST<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
True to its name, the<br />
Art’Otel adds a real<br />
arty fl avour to your<br />
trip, and has a superb<br />
location on the banks<br />
of the Danube.<br />
From €89, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
and a fun restaurant with<br />
a Hungarian menu.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Babel Delikát Étterem<br />
(1 Szarka Utca, tel:<br />
338 2143) While many<br />
restaurants near here<br />
are tourist traps, Babel<br />
is an exception. The<br />
food is contemporary,<br />
and the kitchen really<br />
shines with various<br />
tasting menus on off er.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Muvész<br />
Kávéház (29 Andrássy<br />
Utca) This coff eehouse<br />
is one of Budapest’s<br />
classic cafés, beloved<br />
among artists who come<br />
for the espresso.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Garzon Café (24<br />
Wesselényi Utca) A<br />
garzon refers to a type<br />
of tatty apartment. This<br />
bar, however, oozes<br />
shabby-chic style, and<br />
is a fun place to spend<br />
the evening.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP A Budapestbased<br />
Russian shoe<br />
designer sells her<br />
footwear creations at<br />
Siberia. She makes<br />
custom designs too<br />
(19 Wesselényi Utca).<br />
GO Check out where<br />
ruinpubs (Budapest’s<br />
retro pubs) fi rst started,<br />
at Fogas Ház at 51<br />
Akácfa Utca and Szimpla<br />
Kert at 14 Kazinczy Utca<br />
in the VI district.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Unicum, the Hungarian<br />
herbal liqueur, is made<br />
from a top-secret recipe<br />
that contains more than<br />
40 diff erent herbs.<br />
Carolyn Bánfalvi
126 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Cagliari<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Berlin, Geneva, London<br />
(STN), Milan (MXP)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJetcom.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
ARST buses to<br />
the city centre<br />
leave every 30 minutes.<br />
Tickets: €2.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Lo Spiedo<br />
Sardo (47 Via Palomba,<br />
tel: 070 492 202) Try<br />
the delicious Sardinian<br />
specialities served<br />
here, such as porchetto<br />
arrosto (sucking pig)<br />
and a great choice<br />
of excellent wines.<br />
Decorated with rustic<br />
handcrafts, it also boasts<br />
very friendly staff .<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Ristorante Italia (30<br />
Via Sardegna, tel: 070<br />
657 987) Situated in<br />
the centre of town<br />
and founded in 1921,<br />
Ristorante Italia is<br />
simply unmissable, with<br />
its excellent ambience,<br />
fantastic service and<br />
even better food. The<br />
carpaccio di tonno<br />
(wafer-thin tuna slices)<br />
is unbeatable.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY La Sella<br />
del Diavolo (1 Fermata<br />
Poetto Beach, tel: 070<br />
373 686) This small café<br />
at one end of Poetto<br />
Beach is encased in<br />
glass walls so you can<br />
enjoy panoramic views,<br />
even on a rainy day.<br />
LATE & LIVELY K Lab<br />
(13 Via Cesare Battisti) K<br />
Lab is open throughout<br />
the whole winter season<br />
and is defi nitely one of<br />
Cagliari’s hottest places<br />
to experience Italian<br />
club culture. Dance the<br />
night away, with live<br />
DJs on Thursday and<br />
Saturday nights.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP At Serdiana, 20<br />
minutes from Cagliari, is<br />
Cantina di Argiolas, one<br />
of Italy’s top wineries<br />
and world-famous for its<br />
exquisite Turriga wine.<br />
Take away a few bottles<br />
from the lovely shop<br />
(28–30 Via Roma, tel:<br />
070 740 606).<br />
SEE The Sartiglia in the<br />
town of Oristano on 6–8<br />
March is a highlight not<br />
to be missed. Admire the<br />
processions of groups<br />
dressed in ancient<br />
costumes and the<br />
breathtaking masked<br />
horse riders that race<br />
down the narrow streets.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Sardinia is known for an<br />
exceptionally high life<br />
expectancy. In fact, fi ve<br />
of the world’s 40 oldest<br />
people live in Sardinia.<br />
Dario Henke<br />
Casablanca<br />
Morocco<br />
DIALLING CODE +212<br />
CURRENCY MAD<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Lyon, Madrid, Milan<br />
(MXP), Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs MAD250.<br />
Trains depart to<br />
Casa Voyageur.<br />
Tickets: MAD40–60.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Trica<br />
(5 Rue Moutanabbi,<br />
Guathier, tel: 0522 220<br />
706) A casual, everpopular<br />
Italian restaurant<br />
with décor inspired<br />
by New York’s trendy<br />
Tribeca area. Great beef<br />
carpaccio is served<br />
alongside plateloads of<br />
homemade pasta.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Basmane<br />
(Angle Boulevard de<br />
l’Ocean Atlantique et<br />
de la Cornice Ain Diab,<br />
tel: 0522 797 532)<br />
Experience sumptuous<br />
Moroccan cuisine and<br />
beautiful décor while<br />
being entertained<br />
by belly dancers. Go<br />
traditional with the<br />
lamb tagine or pigeon<br />
pastilla, which is<br />
defi nitely worth a try.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Lenôtre<br />
(86 Boulevard Moulay<br />
Rachid) Sample<br />
the mouthwatering<br />
delicacies of this classy<br />
café, while sipping on<br />
excellent coff ee or tea.<br />
LATE & LIVELY Le<br />
Carré Rouge (Hotel<br />
Dawliz, Boulevard de<br />
La Corniche, tel: 0522<br />
392 510) The local<br />
crowd here is young<br />
and glamorous. The<br />
roomy dancefl oor and<br />
international DJs keep<br />
clubbers coming back.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO Parc Murdoch is one<br />
of the only maintained<br />
parks in Casablanca.<br />
Frequented year round<br />
by young and old alike,<br />
this park is a breath of<br />
fresh air in a noisy city.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
There are two diff erent<br />
types of taxi in Morocco:<br />
Petit and Grand. In<br />
Casablanca alone there<br />
are 8,000 petit taxis.<br />
Cara Warkentin<br />
HABBOUS<br />
MARKET<br />
SHOP Ask anyone<br />
in Habbous to direct<br />
you to the olive<br />
market. Through a<br />
medieval archway,<br />
you’ll fi nd deep<br />
bowls piled high with<br />
dozens of diff erent<br />
types of olives.<br />
Catania<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Milan (MXP),<br />
Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
Route 457 leaves<br />
every 20 minutes<br />
stopping in the centre.<br />
Tickets: €1.30 (onboard).<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Strapizzati (20 Via<br />
Scammacca, tel: 095<br />
436 270) This tiny<br />
family-run pizzeria is<br />
located at the city gate<br />
and off ers huge tasty<br />
pizzas and the most<br />
traditional Sicilian dish<br />
pani cunzatu – warm<br />
bread, tomatoes, olive<br />
oil and oregano.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Ristorante Primo<br />
Piano (8 Via Antonio De<br />
Curtis, tel: 095 531 028)<br />
In an elegant setting in<br />
the historic centre of<br />
Catania, this exclusive<br />
restaurant off ers you the<br />
opportunity to enjoy<br />
a wide range of delicious<br />
dishes inspired by local<br />
and international cuisine.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Café<br />
Sauvage (1 Corso Italia,<br />
tel: 095 377 325) This<br />
is the most luxurious<br />
café in the city. It<br />
opened more than<br />
30 years ago, and<br />
quickly became a<br />
city institution. Try<br />
the house speciality,<br />
the latte di mandarla<br />
(almond milk).<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Ceres Pub (19 Via San<br />
Giuseppe al Duomo,<br />
tel: 095 715 2294)<br />
Located in the city<br />
centre, by the university,<br />
this pub is frequented<br />
mostly by students.<br />
The atmosphere is<br />
cheerful and typically<br />
Sicilian, and foreign<br />
beers are available.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Foto T2<br />
Tramontana is the best<br />
photographic studioshop<br />
in the city. Here<br />
you can buy cameras,<br />
lenses and fi lm (15 Via<br />
Sant’Angelo Custode,<br />
tel: 095 347 951).<br />
GO Stadio Angelo<br />
Massimino is the city’s<br />
football stadium. You<br />
can’t beat the amazing<br />
atmosphere of a Catania<br />
Serie A match (Piazza<br />
Vincenzo Spedini,<br />
tel: 095 742 5707).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Saverio Di Giacomo<br />
is a 31-year-old<br />
Sicilian man living in<br />
northern Italy. Last<br />
November, he walked<br />
for more than<br />
1,600km to get to<br />
Sicily to visit the grave<br />
of his grandfather.<br />
Alessandro Di Maio
Cologne<br />
Germany<br />
DIALLING CODE +49<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Edinburgh,<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
The fare to Cologne is<br />
€30 and €40 to Bonn.<br />
Trains leave for<br />
Cologne every 20<br />
minutes. Tickets: €3.40.<br />
The bus for Bonn,<br />
leaves every hour.<br />
Tickets: €6.60.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Jonny Turista (74<br />
Mauritiussteinweg, tel:<br />
0221 240 7055) Grazing<br />
on tapas at Jonny Turista<br />
won’t break the bank –<br />
and there are German<br />
beers and Spanish wines<br />
to help wash it all down.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Ristorante Alfredo<br />
(3 Tunisstrasse, tel:<br />
0221 257 7380) The<br />
Michelin-starred cuisine<br />
at Alfredo is served<br />
with a side order of<br />
Italian arias. Chef<br />
(and trained baritone)<br />
Roberto Carturan off ers<br />
a six-course menu to<br />
accompany the opera.<br />
Exclusive Ladies Fashions<br />
SIZES 6 to 34<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Beim<br />
Kölsche Jung (71<br />
Weyerstrasse) Keenly<br />
priced Gaff el or<br />
Reissdorf Kölsch, hearty<br />
regional cooking and<br />
live music make for<br />
a warm, traditional<br />
Rhineland welcome.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Artheater (127<br />
Ehrenfeldgürtel, tel:<br />
0221 550 3344) On<br />
Friday and Saturday<br />
nights, Ehrenfeld’s<br />
Artheater mutates<br />
from hip theatre space<br />
into one of Cologne’s<br />
leading temples of<br />
electronic dance music.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Inspired by the<br />
needs of Swiss cyclists,<br />
Freitag’s bags for men<br />
and women are stylish,<br />
distinctive and practical.<br />
Hip street Friesenwall<br />
is the place to get them<br />
(24 Friesenwall, tel: 0221<br />
2726 0880, freitag.ch).<br />
SEE Cologne’s carnival<br />
reaches its crescendo<br />
with masks, balls, live<br />
music and merriment.<br />
The highlight is<br />
the Rosenmontag<br />
procession on 7 March,<br />
when sweets and<br />
strüsjer (bouquets) are<br />
thrown from the fl oats<br />
(koelnerkarneval1.de).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Men should leave their<br />
neckwear at home on 3<br />
March – Weiberfastnacht<br />
– since on this day of<br />
the carnival the women<br />
call the shots and it’s<br />
traditional for them to<br />
snip off the tie of any<br />
man caught wearing one.<br />
Neville Walker<br />
Copenhagen<br />
Denmark<br />
DIALLING CODE +45<br />
CURRENCY Krone (DKK)<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Berlin, Geneva, London<br />
(LGW, STN), Manchester,<br />
Milan (MXP)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs DKK180.<br />
Underground<br />
trains go to<br />
Nørreport station.<br />
Tickets: DKK31.50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15<br />
Agnes Cupcakes (2<br />
Sværtegade, tel: 3120<br />
6000) Copenhagen’s<br />
fi rst cupcake bakery<br />
off ers a delicious<br />
alternative to the<br />
traditional Danish<br />
pastry, as well as a<br />
selection of organic<br />
hot and cold drinks.<br />
UP TO €30 Frk<br />
Barners Kælder (8A<br />
Helgolandsgade, tel:<br />
3333 0533) Think good,<br />
old-fashioned Danish<br />
cooking piled on plates<br />
and served at tables with<br />
kitsch red chequered<br />
table cloths. The menu<br />
includes classics such<br />
as herring, calf’s liver,<br />
butter-fried plaice and<br />
apple cake.<br />
UP TO €50 Scarpetta<br />
(7 Rantzausgade, tel:<br />
3535 0808) Perfect<br />
for the indecisive, this<br />
Italian restaurant off ers<br />
a fi ve-course set meal,<br />
or you can pick from the<br />
extensive menu of small<br />
tapas-sized dishes. The<br />
painted white furniture,<br />
tiled fl oors and olive<br />
trees make for a light<br />
and airy atmosphere.<br />
Booking is essential as<br />
it’s always packed.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Restaurant Godt (38<br />
Gothersgade, tel: 3315<br />
2122) Chef Colin Rice<br />
and his wife Marie<br />
Anne run this intimate<br />
restaurant in the centre<br />
of town. A maximum of<br />
20 guests are spread<br />
over the two simply<br />
decorated fl oors,<br />
ensuring wonderfully<br />
attentive service and<br />
making this the perfect<br />
choice for a romantic<br />
date. The four- or<br />
fi ve-course lunch and<br />
dinner menus comprise<br />
European dishes<br />
concocted from local<br />
seasonal ingredients.<br />
An accompanying wine<br />
menu is also available.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Hviids<br />
Vinstue (19 Kongens<br />
Nytorv, tel: 3315 1064)<br />
The city’s oldest pub is<br />
the perfect bolthole for<br />
a cold March day, with<br />
its low ceilings, dark<br />
wooden interiors and 27<br />
varieties of Danish beer.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
The Rock (45–47<br />
Skindergade, tel: 3391<br />
3913) As the name<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 127<br />
suggests, this centrally<br />
located venue will appeal<br />
to rock music fans as it<br />
hosts a mix of local and<br />
international rock and<br />
metal bands three or<br />
four nights a week.<br />
LATE & LIVELY K3<br />
(3 Knabrostræde, tel:<br />
3311 3784) Previously<br />
the popular gay club<br />
Pan, this venue now<br />
prides itself on the<br />
diversity of its clientèle<br />
who dance the night<br />
away to sets by various<br />
international and<br />
Danish DJs on the four<br />
dancefl oors.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Foodies visiting<br />
Copenhagen should<br />
head to Løgismose,<br />
a gourmet food and<br />
wine shop that, thanks<br />
to its obscure location,<br />
remains unknown to<br />
many locals. Everything<br />
is top quality from<br />
the fresh bread and<br />
cakes to the cheeses,<br />
seafood and impressive<br />
selection of wine<br />
and spirits from<br />
COPENHAGEN<br />
STAR HOTEL<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
Centrally located, in<br />
the heart of the city,<br />
with all major tourist<br />
attractions within<br />
walking distance this<br />
place is a real fi nd.<br />
From €93, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
around the world<br />
(16 Nordre Toldbod).<br />
SEE Take a stroll<br />
around the lofty, lightfi<br />
lled rooms of Kunsthal<br />
Charlottenborg, where<br />
changing exhibitions<br />
of contemporary<br />
artwork by Danish and<br />
international artists<br />
fi ll the walls and fl oor<br />
space. The bookshop<br />
and café are also worth<br />
a visit (2 Nyhavn).<br />
GO Linking swanky<br />
Frederiksberg with the<br />
more edgy Vesterbro<br />
is Værnedamsvej, a<br />
narrow street packed<br />
with great shops, cafés<br />
and restaurants. Spend<br />
an hour or so checking<br />
out the independent<br />
fashion boutiques,<br />
Benny’s fl orist and<br />
the delicatessens<br />
before treating yourself<br />
to a fresh juice at<br />
Granola or dinner at<br />
Les Trois Cochons.<br />
ESCAPE Fans of Out<br />
of Africa should take<br />
the train 25km north<br />
of Copenhagen to the<br />
Karen Blixen Museet,<br />
located in the house<br />
in which this famous<br />
author spent her entire<br />
life – except for her<br />
17 years in Africa. See<br />
rooms preserved in their<br />
original state, learn more<br />
about the author’s work<br />
and life and also enjoy<br />
the magnifi cent gardens<br />
(karen-blixen.dk).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Denmark has 12.7<br />
million pigs compared<br />
to 5.5 million people,<br />
making it the greatest<br />
producer of pigs per<br />
capita in the world.<br />
Cathy Strongman
128 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Corfu<br />
Greece<br />
DIALLING CODE +30<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Berlin, Bristol,<br />
London (LGW),<br />
Manchester, Milan (MXP)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €12.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Big Bite<br />
(Benitses, tel: 26610<br />
71142) Enjoying a<br />
wonderful seafront<br />
location, the Greek and<br />
English-run Big Bite<br />
features local dishes<br />
as well as international<br />
fl avours, all homemade<br />
and in big portions.<br />
Kids can play safely<br />
on the beach in front<br />
of the veranda.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Corfu<br />
Sailing Club (Mandraki,<br />
Old Fortress, Corfu Town,<br />
tel: 26610 38763) Not<br />
exclusively for members,<br />
this classy restaurant<br />
occupies the sea wall<br />
beside yacht moorings.<br />
The French-trained<br />
chef presents local and<br />
international dishes<br />
with style and fl air. Try<br />
fried Camembert with<br />
cranberry sauce, then<br />
DESERT<br />
ADVENTURES<br />
DISCOVER<br />
JORDAN’S<br />
WILD SIDE<br />
MARCH <strong>2011</strong><br />
*YOUR FREE COPY TO<br />
TAKE AWAY WITH YOU<br />
TRAVELLER<br />
EMPIRE<br />
OF THE SUN<br />
SPAIN’S SOLAR<br />
POWERED FUTURE<br />
GO LARGE IN<br />
GOTHENBURG<br />
A TASTE OF SWEDEN’S<br />
COFFEE CAPITAL<br />
ej_cover.indd 1 09/02/<strong>2011</strong> 11:03<br />
steak in port, with crème<br />
brûlée for pudding.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Petrino Bar<br />
(Main Street, Gastouri)<br />
Occupying the ground<br />
fl oor of a small mansion<br />
in a traditional village<br />
setting, this bar displays<br />
great local character.<br />
Pop in for refreshments<br />
during a trip to the<br />
nearby Achillion Palace.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Ekati Night Club (Main<br />
Paleokastritsa Highway,<br />
Alikes) Corfu’s foremost<br />
bouzouki nightclub<br />
presents well-known<br />
artists singing Greek<br />
popular music. The<br />
show gets going – very<br />
loudly – after midnight.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Tourmouzoglou<br />
Bookshop has the<br />
island’s best selection of<br />
guidebooks, maps and<br />
foreign-language novels.<br />
Ask for John Waller’s<br />
Walking the Corfu Trail<br />
with Friends, Flowers<br />
and Food, a funny yet<br />
serious account of a<br />
hike along the Corfu Trail<br />
(47 Nikiforos Theotoki<br />
Street, Corfu Town).<br />
GO Join in celebrations<br />
on Clean Monday,<br />
the fi rst day of Lent<br />
(7 March). Many villages<br />
put on a procession and<br />
fi esta – Peroulades in the<br />
north west has one of the<br />
best. Take along a picnic<br />
and plenty of wine.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Corfu’s carnival is<br />
reputed to be the best in<br />
Greece, and is closest to<br />
Venice’s celebrations.<br />
Hilary Paipeti<br />
Corsica<br />
(Ajaccio)<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Geneva, London (LGW),<br />
Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €25<br />
Route 8 buses go<br />
to the centre in<br />
about 20 minutes, daily<br />
from 5.55am–11.15pm.<br />
Tickets: €4.50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Le 20123<br />
(2 Rue du Roi de Rome,<br />
tel: 04 9521 5005) This<br />
restaurant may look like<br />
a village square, with its<br />
water pump and parked<br />
Vespa, but Le 20123<br />
off ers country food.<br />
EXCLUSIVE L’Altru<br />
Versu (Route des<br />
Sanguinaires, tel: 04<br />
9550 0522) For total<br />
indulgence on this<br />
beautiful island, there’s<br />
only one place to go.<br />
One of the best places<br />
to dine out in Corsica.<br />
Go for an extravagant<br />
lobster or eat citrus<br />
pork medallions. The<br />
service is fantastic.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Au<br />
Grandval (2 Cours<br />
Grandval) Relax with<br />
a good drink at this bar<br />
underneath a large palm<br />
tree. While sipping your<br />
drink, gaze at the street<br />
photography from this<br />
area of Corsica.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
La Place (Boulevard<br />
Lantivy) Downtown’s<br />
best discothèque, La<br />
Place, is the venue to<br />
party. The music is<br />
mainly techno and the<br />
clientèle is young.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP U Tilaghju, an<br />
artisan shop, is situated<br />
on Rue Forcioli Conti,<br />
close to the beautiful<br />
terracotta cathedral.<br />
Browse the lovely pieces<br />
of ceramic on sale.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
A visit to Ajaccio<br />
impressed the French<br />
artist Henri Matisse so<br />
much, it revolutionised<br />
his artistic ideas.<br />
Kimberley Chen<br />
FURNITURE<br />
MUSEUM<br />
SEE Musée de la<br />
Maison Bonaparte<br />
was once the home<br />
of the military leader<br />
Napoleon. There are<br />
many beautiful pieces<br />
of furniture on show<br />
(Rue St-Charles,<br />
tel: 04 9521 4389).<br />
Corsica<br />
(Bastia)<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Geneva,<br />
London (LGW), Lyon,<br />
Manchester, Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
If you want to continue to read this magazine<br />
and cannot take it with you, visit<br />
traveller.‰.com<br />
.com<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €50.<br />
Catch the bus to<br />
the Préfecture.<br />
Tickets: €9.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Le Bosco<br />
(12 Quai des Martyrs<br />
de la Libération, tel: 04<br />
9558 0802) The only<br />
Lebanese restaurant<br />
on the island serves a<br />
huge variety of delicious<br />
mezze. Savour a piece<br />
of homemade baklava<br />
while watching the<br />
ferries go by.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
La Corniche (San<br />
Martino di Lota, tel: 04<br />
9531 4098) La Corniche<br />
perches high on a hillside<br />
with spectacular views<br />
of the Mediterranean,<br />
about 10km north<br />
of Bastia. The menu<br />
includes Continental<br />
dishes served with<br />
a Corsican twist.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Le LVP<br />
Café (12 Rue Spinola,<br />
tel: 04 9531 2136)<br />
Sit back and relax<br />
with a glass of Pietra<br />
(Corsican chestnut<br />
beer) or local wine while<br />
admiring Bastia’s most<br />
picturesque port<br />
as the sun sets.<br />
LATE & LIVELY La<br />
Pinta (Port de Toga, tel:<br />
04 9534 2300) Dance<br />
the night away looking<br />
over the marina, enjoying<br />
regional beers and the<br />
fun-loving locals. This<br />
is one of Bastia’s staple<br />
nightspots, with live<br />
music at the weekends.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP At Les Grands<br />
Vins de Corse you’ll<br />
fi nd a good selection of<br />
Corsica’s fi nest wines,<br />
spirits and liqueurs,<br />
including wines made<br />
from Corsica’s unique<br />
grape varieties Nielluccio<br />
and Sciaccarellu (24<br />
Rue César Campinchi).<br />
SEE Bastia meets<br />
Moscow: take Musica<br />
Viva from Moscow,<br />
one of Russia’s most<br />
prestigous orchestras,<br />
add Laetitia Himo, an<br />
internationally acclaimed<br />
violoncellist from Bastia,<br />
and the result will be<br />
astounding. Catch it on<br />
25 March (Théâtre de<br />
Bastia, Rue Favalelli).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Bastia was founded in<br />
1378 by the Genoese<br />
and was the capital<br />
of Corsica until 1791.<br />
The name comes from<br />
bastiglia, meaning<br />
“stronghold”.<br />
Stacy Jouve<br />
00000 EasyJet WEBSITE 19.08.10.indd 1 10/02/<strong>2011</strong> 12:35<br />
TAXI
Crete<br />
(Heraklion)<br />
Greece<br />
DIALLING CODE +30<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Berlin, Bristol,<br />
Geneva, London (LGW),<br />
Manchester, Milan<br />
(MXP), Rome (FCO)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €14.<br />
Buses run every<br />
10 minutes to the<br />
centre. Tickets: €1.10.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Ippokambos Ouzerie<br />
(3 Sofokli Venizelou, tel:<br />
2810 280 240) Locals<br />
fl ock to this city-centre<br />
favourite, a family-run<br />
ouzerie taverna serving<br />
mezze, fresh fi sh and<br />
great seafood.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Brilliant<br />
Gourmet Restaurant<br />
(15 Epimenidou<br />
Street, tel: 2810 334<br />
959) Part of the Lato<br />
Boutique Hotel, this<br />
elegant restaurant with<br />
chic, modern décor<br />
off ers fi ne gourmet<br />
cuisine using local and<br />
Mediterranean fl avours.<br />
Think risotto with<br />
Cretan apaki smoked<br />
pork and chicken fi llet<br />
with mizithra creamy<br />
Cretan cheese.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Fashion<br />
Café (3 Korai and<br />
Perdikare Street) This<br />
café-bar has outdoor<br />
seating in the narrow<br />
streets in the heart of<br />
the city’s nightlife area,<br />
and is hugely popular<br />
with the young crowd.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Privilege (7 Doukos<br />
Beaufort) Privilege is<br />
back with a fresh new<br />
style. Dance the night<br />
away at this popular<br />
mainstream club playing<br />
dance, trance, hip<br />
hop, Greek music and<br />
everything in between.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Shop for<br />
fantastic Greek designer<br />
jewellery, watches and<br />
bags at Folli Follie in<br />
the city centre<br />
(23 Dedalou Street).<br />
GO For a lovely walk,<br />
head from Venizelou<br />
Square, strolling down<br />
25th August Street past<br />
the Venetian Loggia and<br />
St Titos church, admiring<br />
the Venetian mansions<br />
on the way. Continue<br />
down to the old port<br />
and the impressive<br />
Koules fortress.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Greece has the highest<br />
per capita consumption<br />
of olive oil in the world,<br />
and Cretans consume<br />
the most olive oil in<br />
Greece. The average<br />
Greek consumes more<br />
than 15kg a year, while in<br />
Crete that exceeds 20kg.<br />
Carol Palioudakis<br />
Cyprus<br />
(Larnaca)<br />
Cyprus<br />
DIALLING CODE +357<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €15.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Village<br />
Tavern (Pyla Road,<br />
Pyla Village, tel: 24<br />
645 900) Theo and<br />
Denise serve homecooked<br />
bar snacks<br />
and restaurant meals.<br />
There’s a good choice of<br />
Cypriot or international<br />
dishes, and a special<br />
menu for children.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Charmers Restaurant<br />
(75 Pigiale Pasa<br />
Avenue, tel: 24 624<br />
127) A pleasant and<br />
ever-popular seafront<br />
restaurant that serves<br />
excellent steaks –<br />
fresh fi sh is also on<br />
the menu. You have to<br />
try the ice-cream cake<br />
for dessert.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY The Only<br />
Café-Bar (7 Georgiou<br />
Photiou, Oroklini, tel:<br />
24 647 740) A wellpriced<br />
all-day breakfast<br />
is served here and<br />
happy hour keeps the<br />
locals, well, happy every<br />
day from 12–9pm.<br />
Free Wi-Fi and live<br />
international football<br />
are also available.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Club Memphis<br />
(15–17 Corner of Lordou<br />
Vironos and Grigori<br />
Axfentiou Avenue)<br />
Dance until 4am at<br />
Club Memphis, where<br />
exclusive nights and<br />
events lure in local<br />
and international DJs,<br />
playing a mix of soul,<br />
R’n’B, house and Greek<br />
hits. The dress code is<br />
super stylish.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Choose an<br />
unusual gift from the<br />
Oro Fino jewellery<br />
shop, whose aim is<br />
to present previously<br />
unseen jewellery in<br />
an atmosphere of<br />
poetry and surreal décor<br />
(26 Pavlou Valsamaki<br />
Street, tel: 24 654 666,<br />
orofi nojewellery.com).<br />
SEE Larnaca’s<br />
Saturday-morning<br />
fruit and vegetable<br />
market is a real hive of<br />
activity and colour as<br />
Cypriot villagers sell<br />
their fresh, homegrown<br />
produce<br />
(Leontos Sofou Street).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Larnaca town is home<br />
to seven diff erent<br />
museums, ranging<br />
from ecclesiastical and<br />
medieval to fascinating<br />
archeological collections<br />
on show to the public.<br />
Bev Orton Jennings<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 129<br />
Cyprus<br />
(Paphos)<br />
Cyprus<br />
DIALLING CODE +357<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Bristol, Edinburgh,<br />
London (LGW, LTN),<br />
Manchester<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €30.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Tea For<br />
Two (Tombs of The<br />
Kings Road) This is one<br />
of the best cafés for<br />
international food in<br />
town, off ering friendly<br />
GREEN<br />
MONDAY<br />
SEE The 7 March<br />
marks the fi rst day<br />
of Lent in the Eastern<br />
Orthodox calendar.<br />
To celebrate, Cypriots<br />
hold picnics and have<br />
kite-fl ying events. At<br />
noon, head to Faros<br />
Beach in Paphos.<br />
service with indoor and<br />
outdoor seating. It does<br />
a good English breakfast.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Koi Thai<br />
& Japanese Restaurant<br />
(58 Poseidonos Avenue,<br />
tel: 26 813 456) Ultrachic<br />
and worth dressing<br />
up for, Koi serves a full<br />
range of delicious Asian<br />
cuisine with an emphasis<br />
on sushi, noodles,<br />
tempura, seafood and<br />
Thai curry dishes.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Balia<br />
Elektriki Cafe (8<br />
Vladimerou Herakleous,<br />
Ktima, tel: 26 222 157)<br />
Centrally located in the<br />
courtyard of the stylish<br />
Balia Elektriki Gallery,<br />
this chic venue serves a<br />
selection of coff ees, soft<br />
and alcoholic drinks.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Linekers (Bar Street)<br />
Dance until late every<br />
night at this lively bar,<br />
which attracts the<br />
young crowd. Resident<br />
DJs play the latest hits.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP At Avgoustinos<br />
Pottery you can take<br />
your pick from creative,<br />
original tableware and<br />
ornaments from one of<br />
the oldest potteries in<br />
Paphos (105 Makarios<br />
III Avenue, Yeroskipou,<br />
tel: 99 568 726).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Cyprus has a<br />
multicultural history,<br />
and hidden away<br />
inland is a collection of<br />
beautifully preserved<br />
Venetian bridges built<br />
for the camel caravans<br />
in the 16th century.<br />
Lucie Robson/lintv.eu
130 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Dalaman<br />
Turkey<br />
DIALLING CODE +90<br />
CURRENCY TRY<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Bristol, London<br />
(LGW, STN) Manchester<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs TRY30.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Ayytacc<br />
Café (14B Cumhuriyet<br />
Caddesi, tel: 0252 692<br />
4423) This snazzy café<br />
attracts a youthful mix<br />
of customers. Order<br />
a frothy cappuccino,<br />
as no alcohol is served,<br />
and enjoy a spot of<br />
people-watching. Open<br />
until midnight, it makes<br />
a great place to mingle<br />
with the local young<br />
and trendy crowd.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Cafe<br />
La Vie (Mara Mah,<br />
5 Salik sok, Dalyan,<br />
tel: 0252 284 4142)<br />
Tingle your taste<br />
buds at this fabulous<br />
restaurant. Enjoy a<br />
mouthwatering mixed<br />
grill and sip wonderful<br />
wines served with<br />
panache, while<br />
relaxing by the river<br />
running through<br />
the gardens.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Tesadüf<br />
(Ege Mah, 37 Kenan<br />
Evren Bulvarı, tel: 0252<br />
692 5914) Simply the<br />
best place in town to<br />
start your evening.<br />
Unwind to live local<br />
music while enjoying<br />
a delicious steak or<br />
freshly caught seabass<br />
in Dalaman’s newest<br />
hip location.<br />
LATE & LIVELY Jazz<br />
Bar (Cumhurriyet<br />
Mah, Göcek, tel: 0252<br />
645 1729) Finish the<br />
evening a-rockin’-anda-rollin’<br />
until dawn to<br />
local and international<br />
hits played with<br />
style by a variety<br />
of live musicians.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Remember,<br />
sparkling diamonds<br />
are a girl’s best friend.<br />
Gürhan is the man to<br />
see if you want your<br />
rock set in 14-carat<br />
gold made to your<br />
own design (Gürhan<br />
Kuyumculuk, 47<br />
Atatürk Caddesi,<br />
tel: 0252 692 2842).<br />
GO Sea too cold?<br />
Then visit the natural<br />
thermal pool at Fevziye,<br />
where the water is<br />
a constant 27°C.<br />
The water is said to<br />
cure everything from<br />
psoriasis to sciatica<br />
(Gurukardı Mah,<br />
Kukurtlu su, Fevziye,<br />
tel: 0252 285 8219).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The world’s oldest<br />
known shipwreck was<br />
found and excavated in<br />
Uluburun, just along the<br />
coast from Dalaman.<br />
Rod Harrison<br />
Dortmund<br />
Germany<br />
DIALLING CODE +49<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Barcelona,<br />
Budapest, Krakow,<br />
London (LTN), Majorca,<br />
Thessaloniki, Zagreb<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €22.<br />
The Airport<br />
Express leaves<br />
every hour. Tickets: €6.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Café<br />
Lotte (31 Dresdener<br />
Strasse, tel: 0231 5303<br />
1131) This delightful<br />
corner café with a<br />
Jugendstil fl oor serves<br />
tasty and healthy<br />
breakfasts, lunches and<br />
homemade cakes, and<br />
an incredible variety<br />
of hot chocolate drinks.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Palmgarten (200<br />
Hohensyburgstrasse,<br />
tel: 0231 774 0731) At<br />
the classy restaurant<br />
of the Hohensyburg<br />
casino, enjoy great<br />
seasonal food that<br />
comes with fantastic<br />
views over the valley<br />
and pay the bill with<br />
your winnings next door.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Las Salinas<br />
(9–11 Kleppingstrasse,<br />
tel: 0231 150 4434) To<br />
fi nd some Mediterranean<br />
holiday atmosphere in<br />
Dortmund, head to this<br />
trendy Spanish bar in the<br />
pedestrian area. Named<br />
after a beach in Ibiza, it<br />
doesn’t disappoint.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Freizeitzentrum West<br />
(20 Ritterstrasse,<br />
tel: 0231 177 820) A<br />
functional building<br />
behind the Dortmunder<br />
U complex is home to<br />
“Leisure Centre West”,<br />
which hosts the best<br />
rock, punk and indie<br />
music concerts and<br />
parties in the region. With<br />
260 events a year, there’s<br />
always something<br />
interesting on.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP If you’re in<br />
the market for quality<br />
second-hand CDs,<br />
DVDs, games and more,<br />
head to Andrä, which<br />
is one of Germany’s<br />
largest chain stores<br />
(54 Westenhellweg).<br />
SEE Dortmund’s streets<br />
fi ll up with thousands of<br />
cheerful revellers this<br />
month, as the annual<br />
carnival hits the city<br />
streets. It lasts for several<br />
days, with bars and cafés<br />
full of people in fancy<br />
dress – but the highlight<br />
is the Rosenmontag<br />
parade on 7 March.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The world’s smallest<br />
carnival parade takes<br />
place annually in Unna,<br />
just east of Dortmund.<br />
Jeroen van Marle/<br />
inyourpocket.com<br />
Dresden<br />
Germany<br />
DIALLING CODE +49<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
The S-Bahn runs<br />
every 30 minutes.<br />
Tickets: €2 single.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Watzke<br />
Ball & Brauhaus<br />
(1 Kötzschenbroder<br />
Strasse, tel: 0351 852<br />
920) In the summer,<br />
seating along the Elbe<br />
River off ers views of<br />
the historic centre. In<br />
the winter, live music<br />
LATE &<br />
LIVELY<br />
Jazzclub Neue Tonne<br />
(15 Königstrasse)<br />
Subterranean vaulted<br />
digs are Dresden’s<br />
address for jazz.<br />
Local acts keep the<br />
connoisseurs and<br />
the come-latelys<br />
bopping their heads.<br />
animates the ballroom.<br />
Throughout the year,<br />
there’s traditional<br />
German food and beers<br />
brewed on-site.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Ontario<br />
(2 An der Frauenkirche,<br />
tel: 0351 4028 8660)<br />
It might seem odd to<br />
order braised caribou at<br />
a Canadian restaurant<br />
in the baroque heart<br />
of a German city, but<br />
delectability knows<br />
no borders here.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Wohnzimmer (27<br />
Jordanstrasse, tel: 0351<br />
563 5956) The name<br />
of this café-bar-lounge<br />
means “living room”.<br />
With two fl oors of<br />
armchairs and sofas,<br />
you’re bound to fi nd<br />
enough loose change to<br />
cover the tab for all those<br />
ambrosian cocktails.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Then Der<br />
Senfl aden (The Mustard<br />
Shop) created cranberry<br />
cream horseradish,<br />
black beer mustard,<br />
fi g jam mustard and<br />
hundreds more varieties<br />
(79 Bautzner Strasse).<br />
SEE Dresden’s State<br />
Art Collection is divided<br />
among 13 museums,<br />
but the Green Vault<br />
holds Europe’s richest<br />
collection of treasures.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
What do beer coasters,<br />
daily paper, toothpaste<br />
and the bra – just to<br />
name a few – all have<br />
in common? They were<br />
all invented in the Free<br />
State of Saxony.<br />
Chris Bush
132 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Düsseldorf<br />
Germany<br />
DIALLING CODE +49<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
London (LGW), Rome (FCO)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
Trains to the<br />
Hauptbahnhof<br />
leave every 10 minutes.<br />
Tickets: €3.30.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Curry<br />
(2 Hammer Strasse,<br />
tel: 0211 303 2857)<br />
Top-notch sausages,<br />
twice-cooked chips<br />
and a range of sauces<br />
from fruity curry to<br />
aioli ensure the simple<br />
and inexpensive fare at<br />
Curry is very chic.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Tafelspitz 1876 (42A<br />
Grünerstrasse, tel: 0211<br />
171 7361) A former cake<br />
shop reworked by Daniel<br />
Dal-Ben as a Michelinstarred<br />
gourmet<br />
restaurant, Tafelspitz<br />
1876 is the place to feast<br />
on goose liver praline,<br />
oxtail soup with rare ribeye<br />
steak or line-caught<br />
zander with warm Black<br />
Forest ham gelée.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Brauerei<br />
Schumacher (123<br />
Oststrasse, tel: 0211 828<br />
9020) You won’t get the<br />
Schumacher brewery’s<br />
traditional Düsseldorf Alt<br />
beer fresher than on the<br />
site where it’s brewed.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Anaconda Lounge (11<br />
Andreasstrasse, tel:<br />
0172 272 7252) Original<br />
1960s design meets<br />
cocktails and electro<br />
to create a club in<br />
miniature at Anaconda<br />
Lounge, open until<br />
5am on Fridays<br />
and for Saturday’s<br />
Elektromeisterei.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP This month<br />
the GDS international<br />
shoe fair is in town, but<br />
unless you’re a trade<br />
visitor you won’t get in.<br />
Head instead for Jerry’s<br />
Exclusiv, where you’ll fi nd<br />
luxurious Lobb footwear<br />
for men and fi ne Italian<br />
shoes for women (Kö-<br />
Galerie, 58 Königsallee,<br />
jerrys-exclusiv.de).<br />
SEE Carnival is known<br />
as the “fi fth season”<br />
here. It climaxes with<br />
Rosenmontag on 7<br />
March, when a giant<br />
parade makes its way<br />
through the city, and<br />
costumes and silliness<br />
are the order of the day<br />
(comitee-duesseldorfercarneval.de).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
It was here in 1970<br />
that Ralf Hütter and<br />
Florian Schneider<br />
came together to form<br />
celebrated synthesizer<br />
pioneers Kraftwerk.<br />
Neville Walker<br />
Edinburgh<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Alicante,<br />
Amsterdam, Basel-<br />
Mulhouse, Belfast (BFS),<br />
Bristol, Cologne, Cyprus<br />
(Paphos), Geneva, Krakow,<br />
Lisbon, London (LGW,<br />
LTN, STN), Lyon, Madrid,<br />
Milan (MXP), Munich,<br />
Majorca, Nice, Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £15.<br />
The Airlink 100<br />
service goes to<br />
the centre. Tickets: £6.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Illegal<br />
Jack’s South West Grill<br />
(113–117 Lothian Road,<br />
tel: 0131 622 7499) This<br />
is a big, plainly set-out<br />
eatery that gets its Tex-<br />
Mex style exactly right.<br />
It isn’t sophisticated, but<br />
it’s certainly fi lling, fresh<br />
and friendly, with the<br />
accent as much on the<br />
food as it is on being fast.<br />
UP TO €30 The<br />
Magnum Restaurant<br />
& Bar (1 Albany Street,<br />
tel: 0131 557 4366) The<br />
Magnum delivers strong,<br />
old-fashioned service<br />
and a Scottish menu<br />
that gives a modern<br />
twist to the suitably<br />
traditional element that’s<br />
in keeping with its New<br />
Town setting. Satisfyingly<br />
comfy dining on all levels,<br />
with a great wine list.<br />
UP TO €50 Calistoga<br />
Restaurant & Sideways<br />
Wines (70 Rose Street<br />
North Lane, tel: 0131 225<br />
1233) Bang in the heart<br />
of the New Town, but<br />
hidden away down a tiny<br />
lane, this is Californian<br />
dining of the kind that<br />
likes local sourcing and<br />
Pacifi c Rim fl avours.<br />
The choice isn’t vast so<br />
the attention to detail is<br />
strong, with the steamed<br />
bass particularly piquant.<br />
The wine list is long<br />
but aff ordable.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Castle<br />
Terrace (33–35 Castle<br />
Terrace, tel: 0131 229<br />
1222) It only opened<br />
last July, but a “rising<br />
star” in the <strong>2011</strong><br />
Michelin Guide marks<br />
out this uncluttered,<br />
sophisticated restaurant<br />
for future greatness.<br />
Chef and patron<br />
Dominic Jack holds true<br />
to mentor Tom Kitchin’s<br />
from-nature-to-plate<br />
philosophy, bringing<br />
techniques learned<br />
in starred French<br />
restaurants to<br />
Scottish produce.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Hyde<br />
Out (2 Fountainbridge<br />
Square, tel: 0131 221<br />
0632) A classy newstyle<br />
bar on the canal<br />
waterfront at Edinburgh<br />
Quay, where the bespoke<br />
designer trimmings are<br />
as noteworthy as the<br />
superior menu. A cool<br />
place to lounge with<br />
cocktails and fi ne wines.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Bannerman’s Bar (212<br />
Cowgate, tel: 0131 556<br />
3254) Barrel-vaulted<br />
ceilings don’t improve<br />
the acoustics of this<br />
vibrant haunt for local<br />
bands, but they help<br />
keep the enthusiasm<br />
levels high. There’s live<br />
music most evenings,<br />
for those who like it loud.<br />
LATE & LIVELY Pivo<br />
(2 Calton Road, tel: 0131<br />
557 2925) Edinburgh’s<br />
up-and-coming DJs<br />
display their mixing skills<br />
every night at this stylish<br />
and lively bar that’s open<br />
from 4pm to 3am. It’s<br />
a good central pre-club<br />
hangout, or a great place<br />
to stay all night.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Threadbare is an<br />
Aladdin’s cave of retro,<br />
kitsch and collectable<br />
clothing, tucked away<br />
in a basement at the<br />
bottom of Broughton<br />
Street. Perfect for a<br />
TEN HILL<br />
PLACE HOTEL<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
Find a little peace and<br />
quiet among the<br />
hustle and bustle<br />
of the city at this<br />
stylish and tastefully<br />
decorated hotel.<br />
From €74, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
unique bargain item<br />
to set off an outfi t – or<br />
a piece of designer<br />
cashmere (66A<br />
Broughton Street).<br />
SEE There’s sensuality<br />
all month at the Royal<br />
Lyceum Theatre, with<br />
Stella Quines’ genrebusting,<br />
sexy ensemble<br />
piece Age of Arousal<br />
until 12 March, and Sue<br />
Glover’s Marilyn – about<br />
Monroe and Simone<br />
Signoret – from 15<br />
March (Grindlay Street,<br />
tel: 0131 248 4848,<br />
lyceum.org.uk).<br />
GO South of the city<br />
centre, on the 41 bus<br />
route, Blackford Hill<br />
is home to the Royal<br />
Observatory and its<br />
visitors’ centre. One of<br />
the city’s better places to<br />
blow away the cobwebs,<br />
with stunning panoramic<br />
views of the city.<br />
ESCAPE Linlithgow,<br />
20 minutes east of<br />
Edinburgh by train, was<br />
a favoured stopping<br />
place for Scottish<br />
royalty on the road<br />
to Stirling. Linlithgow<br />
Palace was the nursery<br />
for Scottish royalty<br />
in the 16th century,<br />
including Mary Queen<br />
of Scots, although this<br />
impressive building in<br />
beautiful parkland is<br />
now largely ruined.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Hyde Out’s toile<br />
wallpaper, originally<br />
designed for the<br />
Edinburgh International<br />
Festival, caused<br />
outrage with its realistic<br />
depiction of vagrants<br />
and drunks among of<br />
the city’s monuments.<br />
Thom Dibdin
Königsallee<br />
for Style Icons<br />
Top designers, international labels and<br />
the latest trends in fashion on and<br />
around the Königsallee.<br />
Experience total shopping in the city<br />
of lifestyle on the banks of the Rhine.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
www.visitduesseldorf.de
134 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Faro<br />
Portugal<br />
DIALLING CODE +351<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Belfast (BFS),<br />
Bristol, Geneva, Glasgow,<br />
Liverpool, London (LGW,<br />
LTN, STN), Newcastle,<br />
Paris (ORY)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
The fare to Faro is €10,<br />
Vilamoura €25, and<br />
Albufeira and Tavira €40.<br />
Eva buses<br />
go to various<br />
destinations.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Taberna<br />
da Maré (9 Travessa da<br />
Barca, Portimão, tel: 282<br />
414 614) Tucked away<br />
in the backstreets near<br />
the harbour, this cosy<br />
eatery is hard to fi nd,<br />
but worth it for tasty<br />
Algarvean home cooking<br />
at its best. Especially<br />
recommended are the<br />
bacalhau (cod) dishes<br />
and grilled sardines.<br />
Delightfully, it has<br />
hardly changed in 20<br />
years – there’s still no<br />
English menu.<br />
UP TO €30 Mussiene<br />
(Monte São José,<br />
Messines, tel: 282 339<br />
357) Get off the tourist<br />
trail to discover this<br />
hidden gem: a very<br />
modern take – with<br />
décor to match – on<br />
traditional Portuguese<br />
rustic cuisine, with<br />
highlights including<br />
black pig cheeks with<br />
mountain cheese,<br />
forest mushroom<br />
risotto and stewed<br />
partridge with polenta.<br />
Save space for<br />
the drunken pears<br />
for a delicious dessert.<br />
UP TO €50<br />
La Terrazza (Praça<br />
Vale do Lobo, tel: 289<br />
356 019) You’ll fi nd<br />
great pizza and pastas,<br />
a superb atmosphere<br />
and good old-fashioned<br />
Italian gusto in this<br />
family environment. Try<br />
the steak in brandy or<br />
red snapper with garlic<br />
for something with<br />
a kick. There’s also<br />
a good wine list.<br />
Zu Yi (Vilamoura<br />
Marina, tel: 289 302<br />
531) Great Chinese<br />
restaurants are hard<br />
to fi nd in the Algarve,<br />
but look no further<br />
than Zu Yi. Modern<br />
décor, harbour views,<br />
and a wide selection<br />
of favourites, from dim<br />
sum to crispy duck<br />
make this place<br />
a winner.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Fine<br />
Dining In Style<br />
(Estrada Vale do Lobo,<br />
Almancil, tel: 289 355<br />
534) Book a gourmet<br />
private dinner for 12<br />
at this upmarket<br />
catering specialists’<br />
own dining facility, or<br />
impress your guests by<br />
getting the Michelintrained<br />
chefs to cook<br />
up a treat for a dinner<br />
party in your holiday<br />
villa. They bring in the<br />
food and wine, prepare<br />
and serve, and even do<br />
the washing up.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Casa Azul<br />
(Cacela Velha, Tavira)<br />
A rooftop patio café<br />
with comfy chairs<br />
and a roaring log fi re<br />
– the perfect winter<br />
hideaway in which<br />
to enjoy homemade<br />
desserts and fresh<br />
coff ee or a warming<br />
aperitif before<br />
a stroll to dinner.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Phoenix Nites (Rua<br />
des Goncalo, Lagos)<br />
Popular old-style<br />
nightspot with an<br />
eclectic choice of<br />
music, from live DJs<br />
and hip hop to rock<br />
and indie. The crowd<br />
is friendly and the<br />
party keeps going<br />
into the early hours.<br />
LATE & LIVELY Casa<br />
do Cerro (Cerro da<br />
Piedade, Albufeira) An<br />
exotic-themed club<br />
with a dramatic hilltop<br />
setting, bustling bar<br />
and pulsating music.<br />
Chill out with a sheesha<br />
pipe or cool off away<br />
from the crowds on<br />
one of the terraces –<br />
Algarve springtime<br />
should make the nights<br />
a little warmer by now.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP There’s a wide<br />
choice of holiday gift<br />
ideas at the upscale<br />
complex Vale do Lobo<br />
Shopping, including<br />
designer sportswear<br />
from Gant and Henry<br />
www.ipayfx.com<br />
Cotton, wine and<br />
gourmet food from<br />
Soares, and golfi ng<br />
accessories from<br />
Nevada Bob’s. Ladies<br />
can even get a new<br />
hairstyle and makeover<br />
at the beauty salon<br />
(tel: 289 353 000).<br />
SEE The week-long<br />
carnival festivities<br />
in the historic town<br />
of Loulé culminate<br />
in parades, street<br />
entertainment, fancy<br />
dress and all-night<br />
parties on Shrove<br />
Tuesday (8 March).<br />
GO Six of the Algarve’s<br />
36 top golf courses are<br />
in Vilamoura, making<br />
it an ideal destination<br />
for an off -peak golfi ng<br />
break. If you can tear<br />
yourself away from the<br />
greens, book a boat<br />
trip, shop for designer<br />
fashion or gifts, or stop<br />
for a sundowner and<br />
admire the fl oating gin<br />
palaces in the marina.<br />
ESCAPE Odeceixe<br />
on the Alentejo border,<br />
90 minutes away by<br />
car, is the Algarve’s<br />
furthest-fl ung outpost<br />
and one of its prettiest<br />
towns. Eat, shop and<br />
take photos, then<br />
blow away the cobwebs<br />
with a bracing walk<br />
on one of the two<br />
spectacular beaches.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Portugal currently<br />
operates on GMT,<br />
but used Central<br />
European Time<br />
from 1966–76 and<br />
1992–96 in attempts<br />
to synchronise with<br />
neighbouring Spain.<br />
Paul Rouse/<br />
inspirationsalgarve.com<br />
Fez<br />
Morocco<br />
DIALLING CODE +212<br />
CURRENCY MAD<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs 120MAD.<br />
Buses run to<br />
the train station<br />
in the New City.<br />
Tickets: 20MAD.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Najmat<br />
Souafi ne (9 Oued<br />
Souafi ne) Dine on the<br />
roof terrace or under<br />
the arches of the old mill<br />
at this fusion restaurant<br />
that serves the freshest<br />
food with a light touch.<br />
RAMADA<br />
HOTEL<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
An elegant, modern<br />
hotel in the centre<br />
of the old city with<br />
four restaurants<br />
and a superb spa.<br />
Breakfast Included,<br />
from €87, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Dar<br />
Anebar (15 Derb<br />
el-Miter, Zenjfour) This<br />
infi nitely romantic riad<br />
restaurant will win<br />
your heart with its<br />
take on traditional<br />
Moroccan dishes.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Hôtel Les<br />
Mérinides (Borj Nord,<br />
tel: 0535 645 226) Head<br />
for the hotel terrace for<br />
a drink just as the sun<br />
sets. The views across<br />
the medina will have you<br />
spellbound as the call<br />
to prayer sounds out.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Consul Bar, Batha<br />
Hotel (Place de<br />
l’Independence, Batha,<br />
tel: 0535 634 860) Once<br />
upon a time this was the<br />
British consulate in Fez,<br />
but it’s now a great place<br />
to unwind with a beer.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Made in M is<br />
a stylish shop with a<br />
wide range of Moroccan<br />
goodies, including handembroidered<br />
cushions,<br />
tadelakt candleholders,<br />
argan oil, and the most<br />
delectable patisserie<br />
(Tala’a Kebira).<br />
GO Try a traditional<br />
hammam like the locals:<br />
get smothered in brown<br />
goo, scrubbed with a<br />
rough glove until you’re<br />
shiny, then massaged<br />
into a state of bliss.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The Water Clock near<br />
Bouanania Medersa<br />
once told the time with<br />
metal balls that were<br />
released from 12 little<br />
doors into brass bowls.<br />
Helen Ranger<br />
Online international payments.<br />
Control in the palm of your hand.
Best properties<br />
Best opportunities in Morocco<br />
Marrakech, Fes,Essaouira<br />
www.atlasimmobilier.com<br />
n° 245 Imm. Wataniya, Av Mohammed V<br />
3ème étage N° 309 Marrakech Guéliz MAROC<br />
Tel - 00 212 5 24 42 26 72 : Fax - 00 212 5 24 42 19 63<br />
Email - contact@atlasimmobilier.com<br />
Business Room concept Try it<br />
New meeting package Success<br />
Attractive weekend offer Enjoy<br />
Mövenpick Hotel & Casino Geneva<br />
Case postale 556, Route de Pré-Bois 20<br />
CH-1215 Geneva 15<br />
For more details<br />
please contact us :<br />
Phone +41 22 717 11 11
136 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Fuerteventura<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Bristol, Liverpool,<br />
London (STN), Madrid<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
The fare to Corralejo is<br />
€60, Caleta de Fuste €15<br />
and Costa Calma €90.<br />
Route 3 goes to<br />
Caleta de Fuste.<br />
Tickets: €1.40. Route 6<br />
buses, to Corralejo, run<br />
every hour. Tickets: €4.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Casa<br />
Manolo (13 Calle<br />
Crucero Baleares,<br />
tel: 928 866 575) For<br />
traditional tapas, this<br />
place is a must. Manolo is<br />
the chef and owner, and<br />
oversees this friendly,<br />
family-run restaurant.<br />
EXCLUSIVE La<br />
Terraza del Muelle<br />
(Carretera los Pozos,<br />
tel: 928 861 635) Enjoy<br />
the authentic taste of<br />
Fuerteventura’s local<br />
cuisine with fi ne-dining<br />
dishes. The foie gras<br />
salad and morcilla de<br />
Burgos (Burgos black<br />
pudding) come highly<br />
recommended. Great<br />
location overlooking the<br />
harbour in the capital.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Bougainville (Calle<br />
la Iglesia, Corralejo)<br />
A central cocktail and<br />
wine bar overlooking the<br />
Old Town square. Come<br />
for a quiet drink to get<br />
your night started.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Bugaloo (2 Calle Hernan<br />
Cortez, Corralejo) A<br />
cosy bar with a fantastic<br />
welcome and a terrace<br />
that provides views out<br />
to sea. The owner, Frans,<br />
is Dutch, but the bar has<br />
an international feel,<br />
with a regular group of<br />
holidaymakers having<br />
a drink or two.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Visit the Floating<br />
Shop in the harbour at<br />
Caleta de Fuste, where<br />
you can buy great<br />
souvenirs and typical<br />
Canarian fare.<br />
SEE Corralejo Carnival<br />
takes place from 16–27<br />
March and culminates<br />
with a fantastic parade<br />
on Saturday 26th. The<br />
theme this year, to be<br />
followed in manner and<br />
dress, is old civilisations.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The Egyptian vulture<br />
population of the Canary<br />
Islands was established<br />
around 2,500 years<br />
ago – around the same<br />
time as humans began<br />
to colonise the islands.<br />
For once, human<br />
activity assisted in the<br />
diversifi cation of<br />
the bird, now an<br />
endangered species.<br />
Penny Melville<br />
Geneva<br />
Switzerland<br />
DIALLING CODE +41<br />
CURRENCY CHF<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Alicante,<br />
Amsterdam, Asturias,<br />
Barcelona, Belfast<br />
(BFS), Berlin,<br />
Birmingham, Bordeaux,<br />
Bournemouth, Brindisi,<br />
Bristol, Brussels,<br />
Budapest, Cagliari,<br />
Copenhagen, Corsica<br />
(Ajaccio), Corsica<br />
(Bastia), Crete<br />
(Heraklion), Dubrovnik,<br />
Edinburgh, Faro,<br />
Glasgow, Hurghada,<br />
Ibiza, Lisbon, Liverpool,<br />
Leeds-Bradford, London<br />
(LGW, LTN, STN),<br />
Madrid,Majorca, Málaga,<br />
Manchester, Marrakech,<br />
Mykonos, Nantes,<br />
Naples, Newcastle,<br />
Nice, Olbia, Paris (ORY),<br />
Porto, Pristina, Rome<br />
(CIA), Santiago de<br />
Compostela, Sharm El<br />
Sheikh, Split, Stockholm,<br />
Tel Aviv, Toulouse<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs CHF50.<br />
Trains to Cornavin<br />
station cost CHF7.<br />
Free tickets are valid<br />
for one hour after the<br />
arrival of your fl ight.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Chez<br />
Leung (5 Avenue du<br />
Mail, tel: 022 321 8940)<br />
Pick up a great takeaway<br />
meal from this Asian<br />
fast-food eatery boasting<br />
an extensive menu of<br />
dishes, including many<br />
vegetarian options.<br />
UP TO €30 Outback<br />
Cafè (65 Route de<br />
Chêne, tel: 022 735<br />
6398) Carnivores<br />
who want something<br />
a little more daring<br />
than chicken or steak<br />
should check out the<br />
extraordinary Australian<br />
cuisine at the Outback<br />
Café. Kangaroo, alligator<br />
and ostrich are just a few<br />
of the choices available.<br />
UP TO €50 Al Cova<br />
(59 Rue du Rhône,<br />
tel: 022 310 1555)<br />
In the heart of the<br />
shopping and business<br />
district, this charming<br />
restaurant serves<br />
Sicilian specialities.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Le<br />
Farçon (Immeuble<br />
Kalinka, La Tania, tel: +33<br />
4 7908 8034) Hop over<br />
the French border to La<br />
Tania for a Michelinstarred<br />
treat. Le Farçon’s<br />
head chef, Julien Machet,<br />
off ers an embellished<br />
tasting menu or an<br />
inexpensive lunch menu.<br />
Dine while gazing out<br />
over some of the best<br />
scenery in the Alps.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Café du<br />
Lys (7 Rue de l’Ecole<br />
de Médecine, tel: 022<br />
328 7826) A Genevan<br />
institution, this is the<br />
perfect place for an<br />
apéro (early evening<br />
drink) and a tasty tapas<br />
snack in a relaxed<br />
setting. Also good for<br />
croissants and coff ee.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Alhambar (10 Rue de la<br />
Rôtisserie) On the outer<br />
edges of the Old Town,<br />
this place serves great<br />
cocktails and features<br />
up-and-coming local<br />
live acts with a dancejazz<br />
fl avour throughout<br />
the week. The Sunday<br />
brunch with bands is<br />
always a big hit, get in<br />
early to claim your seat.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Le Francis (8 Boulevard<br />
Helvétique, tel: 022 346<br />
3252) Across the lake at<br />
Rive, in the heart of the<br />
shopping and fi nancial<br />
district, you’ll fi nd this<br />
resto-club. Popular with<br />
a smooth crowd, it’s<br />
ideal for a meal followed<br />
by some dancing.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Rue des Paquis<br />
is perhaps the most<br />
eclectic area of Geneva,<br />
thanks to a wide mixture<br />
of hip shops, African<br />
and Asian food stores,<br />
NENDAZ IN<br />
YOUR POCKET<br />
For all you need to<br />
know about the Alpine<br />
resort of Nendaz,<br />
type m.nendaz.ch<br />
into the browser on<br />
your smartphone,<br />
and the resort’s top<br />
tips will download to<br />
your phone.<br />
antiques, furniture and<br />
second-hand designer<br />
boutiques. A buzzing<br />
place during the day,<br />
it off ers a vast contrast<br />
to the big-name<br />
brands who line the<br />
pavements on the other<br />
side of the city.<br />
SEE Fondation Martin<br />
Bodmer celebrates all<br />
sorts of artistic printed<br />
matter. The stunning<br />
Mario Botta-designed<br />
space is home to some<br />
of the world’s most<br />
prized books and scrolls.<br />
The Humboldt travel<br />
diaries are a particular<br />
highlight (19–21 Route<br />
du Guignard).<br />
GO The city-centre Parc<br />
des Bastions is home to<br />
the famous Reformation<br />
Wall. Built between<br />
1909 and 1917, it depicts<br />
the main founders of<br />
Protestantism. Head to<br />
the park’s pretty pavilionstyle<br />
restaurant and<br />
watch locals play chess<br />
with life-size pieces.<br />
ESCAPE Lavaux<br />
Express is a stylish way<br />
to explore this pretty<br />
wine-growing region,<br />
which is also a UNESCO<br />
World Heritage Site.<br />
Trains leave from the city<br />
from Wednesday<br />
to Saturday; the journey<br />
through the Lavaux wine<br />
region lasts around one<br />
hour, with stops along<br />
the way (Montreux-<br />
Vevey Tourisme,<br />
tel: 021 962 8454).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Geneva is home to<br />
the largest public park<br />
bench in the world – the<br />
bench, at Promenade de<br />
la Treille, is 126m long!<br />
Celeste Neill
Invest with the best<br />
In Flaine from<br />
Freehold<br />
ownership<br />
and holidays<br />
Alternate your holidays in Courchevel,<br />
Meribel or Val d’Isere…<br />
Prestigious 5* residence with excellent facilities<br />
Nestled in a spruce forest with breathtaking views<br />
Spa, swimming pool, sauna and Jacuzzi<br />
Rental management with guaranteed net rental income<br />
19.6% VAT rebate<br />
No running charges or maintenance costs<br />
Grand Massif / 265km of pistes / Less than 1hr from Geneva<br />
Tel: +44 (0) 207 471 4500<br />
www.pierre-vacances.co.uk<br />
email: uk@pierre-vacances.fr
138 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Gibraltar<br />
UK Territory<br />
DIALLING CODE +350<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Liverpool,<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £5.<br />
Routes 3, 9 and<br />
10 run every 10<br />
minutes. Tickets: £1.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Ipanema<br />
(11 Ocean Village<br />
Promenade, tel: 216 648<br />
888) A popular family<br />
choice that’s famous<br />
for the inexpensive<br />
all-you-can-eat hot and<br />
cold buff et with plenty<br />
of choice, including<br />
smoked gammon and<br />
pineapple, BBQ ribs,<br />
chicken wings and<br />
pasta dishes.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Maharaja (5 Tuckey’s<br />
Lane, tel: 200 75233)<br />
The original Indian<br />
restaurant on the Rock<br />
has benefi ted from a<br />
classy refurbishment.<br />
The menu off ers a lavish<br />
selection of favourites,<br />
including tandooris,<br />
kormas, rogan josh and<br />
masala curries.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Captain’s<br />
Cabin (5 John<br />
Mackintosh Square,<br />
tel: 200 72633) This<br />
appropriately named<br />
watering hole has walls<br />
lined with seafaring<br />
pictures and an<br />
intimate, cosy interior.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Latino’s Cocktail Bar<br />
(21B Casemates Square,<br />
tel: 200 47755) Latino’s<br />
has a young vibe on<br />
Friday nights with live<br />
music, while Saturdays<br />
see a more mature<br />
crowd turn up for blues<br />
and jazz – as well as<br />
those killer cocktails.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Check out<br />
the hand-blown glass<br />
jewellery and décor at<br />
Gibraltar Crystal on<br />
Casemates Square. You<br />
can watch glass being<br />
blown and even design<br />
your own wine glass.<br />
The quality is superb<br />
and the list of past<br />
customers impressive.<br />
SEE The World War II<br />
tunnels may not be as<br />
well known as the Siege<br />
Tunnels, but they’re<br />
equally fascinating.<br />
They comprise a<br />
complex defense<br />
system hewn out of the<br />
rock marking where the<br />
Allied invasion of North<br />
Africa was planned.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The extensive Siege<br />
Tunnels only form a<br />
fraction of the 70km of<br />
underground tunnels<br />
that have been dug out<br />
of the Rock during its<br />
tumultuous history.<br />
Josephine Quintero<br />
Glasgow<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Alicante, Belfast<br />
(BFS), Berlin, Bristol,<br />
Faro, Geneva, Ibiza,<br />
London (LGW, LTN,<br />
STN), Málaga, Majorca,<br />
Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £17.<br />
Arriva Glasgow<br />
Flyer Bus leaves<br />
every 10 minutes.<br />
£4.20 single; £6.50<br />
open return.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Tattie<br />
Mac’s Bistro (61 Otago<br />
Street, tel: 0141 337<br />
2282) This gem of an<br />
eatery is located in<br />
Glasgow’s West End, with<br />
a cosy atmosphere, great<br />
food and fab prices. The<br />
Bistro menu is excellent,<br />
with two- or three-course<br />
meals available. Tattie’s<br />
also has an express<br />
menu and fantastic<br />
à la carte, complemented<br />
by a wonderful selection<br />
of white and red wines.<br />
UP TO €30 Amore<br />
Ristorante Pizzeria<br />
(30 Ingram Street, tel:<br />
0141 553 0810) Since<br />
opening a few years<br />
ago, this restaurant has<br />
gone from strength to<br />
strength. Using locally<br />
and seasonally sourced<br />
meat and fi sh, the menu<br />
is simply delicious.<br />
Pizza, pasta, steak, veal,<br />
chicken, salads and<br />
seafood are all served<br />
in elegant surroundings<br />
by friendly staff .<br />
UP TO €50 Rab Ha’s<br />
(81 Hutcheson Street,<br />
tel: 0141 572 0400)<br />
A warm and welcoming<br />
bar, hotel and restaurant<br />
in a refurbished<br />
Victorian building right<br />
in the middle of the<br />
Merchant City. Try<br />
the homemade<br />
broths – delicious.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Rogano<br />
(11 Exchange Place, tel:<br />
0141 248 4055) A local<br />
institution, Rogano<br />
has been providing<br />
fabulous service to its<br />
customers – including<br />
some A-list celebs –<br />
for decades. Feast<br />
on perfectly prepared<br />
fi sh and seafood.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Bar 91 (91<br />
Candleriggs, tel: 0141<br />
552 5211) A wee gem<br />
of a bar to chill out in<br />
amid the Merchant City,<br />
Bar 91 is small and<br />
cosy with a complete<br />
lack of pretension.<br />
There are great day<br />
and night menus if<br />
you’re feeling peckish.<br />
LIVE MUSIC Brel<br />
(39–43 Ashton Lane,<br />
tel: 0141 342 4966) Set<br />
within converted stables<br />
and a coach house in<br />
the West End, Brel off ers<br />
quality Belgian food and<br />
beer. There’s also a live<br />
jazz and acoustic music<br />
programme at weekends<br />
and on the occasional<br />
Thursday night.<br />
LATE & LIVELY The<br />
Stand Comedy Club<br />
(333 Woodlands Road,<br />
tel: 0844 335 8879)<br />
Open seven nights a<br />
week, The Stand has<br />
a varied programme<br />
of contemporary<br />
comedy featuring<br />
the best Scottish<br />
and international<br />
comedians. It’s a great<br />
night out, but book early.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Loch Lomond<br />
Shores is the gateway<br />
to Scotland’s fi rst<br />
National Park. It’s one<br />
of Scotland’s most<br />
spectacular visitor<br />
destinations, combining<br />
the beauty of the loch<br />
with fantastic leisure and<br />
shopping experiences.<br />
Here you’ll fi nd Jenners<br />
department store and an<br />
array of famous brands,<br />
including Ralph Lauren<br />
and Hugo Boss. You can<br />
MITCHELL<br />
LIBRARY<br />
SEE Aye Write! is<br />
Glasgow’s annual<br />
book festival, which<br />
takes place from<br />
4–12 March. The<br />
festival includes a<br />
mix of fi ction, poetry<br />
and prose, crime and<br />
debate (ayewrite.com).<br />
get to the area<br />
on bus services 204,<br />
205 and 215 from<br />
Glasgow city centre<br />
(Glassford Street), or<br />
by train from Queen<br />
Street Station.<br />
GO Fancy a fl utter?<br />
Shawfi eld Greyhound<br />
Stadium brings you<br />
the very best in racing<br />
and entertainment<br />
every Thursday, Friday<br />
and Saturday (doors<br />
open at 7pm). Other<br />
entertainment include<br />
the bars, a race-view<br />
restaurant, cafés and,<br />
of course, the<br />
lively bookmakers<br />
(Rutherglen Road, tel:<br />
0141 647 4121, shawfi eld<br />
greyhounds.com).<br />
ESCAPE Rabbie’s<br />
Trail Burners is a small,<br />
fi ve-star, multi-awardwinning<br />
tour company<br />
operating out of<br />
Glasgow. Rabbie’s off er<br />
a variety of one-day<br />
tours from Glasgow<br />
to various Scottish<br />
locations such as<br />
Loch Ness, Stirling and<br />
Oban (tel: 0131 226<br />
3133, rabbies.com).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The athletes’<br />
village for the 2014<br />
Commonwealth<br />
Games in Glasgow<br />
will feature<br />
accommodation and<br />
facilities for 6,500<br />
competitors and<br />
offi cials. Afterwards,<br />
it will become a new<br />
residential community,<br />
including 304 private<br />
homes, 400 homes<br />
for rent and a new<br />
120-bed care home<br />
for the elderly.<br />
Evelyn McKechnie<br />
Gibraltar - Mix business with pleasure<br />
Discover Gibraltar as your business venue, we can offer you a first class experience and facilities. 4* Rock Hotel is home to the<br />
Khaima an innovative, new concept of banqueting and conferencing in Gibraltar. A unique venue with an excellent ambience suitable<br />
for Corporate Events, Weddings, Conferences and Seminars. Blands Travel can arrange all your Transport needs, to find out more see:<br />
www.rockhotel.gi - www.blandgroup.com - infogib@blandgroup.com - conference-office@rockhotel.gi for further information.
Grenoble Graduate School of Business Productions present<br />
Accreditations<br />
Full-time/Part-time/Global Executive<br />
www.ggsb.com<br />
The AA’s highest rated hotel<br />
in Gibraltar. 79% Merit Score.<br />
Master of Business Administration<br />
Concept & Design : Philippe Tur, turphilippe@me.com - Illustration : Jérôme Guerry
140 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Gothenburg<br />
Sweden<br />
DIALLING CODE +46<br />
CURRENCY Krona (SEK)<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Berlin, London<br />
(LGW), Manchester<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs SEK320.<br />
Flygbussarna<br />
buses depart<br />
every 30 minutes to the<br />
centre from 4am–11pm.<br />
Tickets: SEK150 return.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Puta Madre (3<br />
Magasinsgatan, tel:<br />
031 711 8838) This new<br />
restaurant with a Latin<br />
American infl uence is<br />
currently on everybody’s<br />
lips. Try the beef-fi lled<br />
tortillas topped with<br />
tomatillo salsa and queso<br />
anejo (Mexican cheese).<br />
EXCLUSIVE Kometen<br />
(58 Vasagatan, tel: 031<br />
137 988) Established<br />
in 1934 as a housing<br />
experiment (the<br />
initiative failed), this<br />
building opened as a<br />
restaurant in 1938. The<br />
traditional Scandinavian<br />
menu has captured the<br />
hearts of the Swedish<br />
cultural elite.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Barsidan<br />
(7 Kungstorget, tel: 031<br />
139 290) This cosy bar<br />
has recently reopened.<br />
An extensive wine and<br />
Champagne list makes<br />
it the perfect place<br />
to start the evening.<br />
LATE & LIVELY Nivå<br />
(9 Kungsportsavenyn,<br />
tel: 031 701 8090) The<br />
latest tunes from the<br />
international club music<br />
scene played by worldrenowned<br />
DJs on several<br />
fl oors will keep you on<br />
your feet until 4.30am.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Filippa K is a<br />
Swedish brand defi ned<br />
by timeless simplicity<br />
and high-quality<br />
materials. Visit the shop<br />
in cosy Viktoriapassagen<br />
to update your<br />
spring wardrobe<br />
(14 Södra Larmgatan).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The fi rst Volvo car<br />
was manufactured in<br />
Gothenburg in 1927.<br />
Hedvig Andersson<br />
ART<br />
EXHIBITION<br />
SEE Destination X at<br />
Världskulturmuseet<br />
includes lots of<br />
great contemporary<br />
paintings, sketches,<br />
photographs and fi lms<br />
on the subject of travel<br />
(54 Södra Vägen,<br />
tel: 031 632 700).<br />
Gran Canaria<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €35.<br />
Route 60 runs<br />
from 7am–11pm.<br />
Tickets: €2.50 (Parque<br />
Santa Catalina).<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Dedo<br />
De Dios (Carretera<br />
Puerto de Las Nieves,<br />
tel: 928 898 581) Head<br />
here for fresh fi sh,<br />
with good service and<br />
atmosphere. Try the<br />
fi sh soup or the gambas<br />
al ajillo – sizzling prawns<br />
baked in garlic oil and<br />
spices – washed<br />
down with a bottle<br />
of cheap local wine.<br />
EXCLUSIVE La<br />
Aquarela (Aquamarina,<br />
Patalavaca, tel: 928<br />
735 891) Aquarela is<br />
an exquisite restaurant<br />
in every way. Its menu<br />
recommendations<br />
include the rolls of<br />
roast beef stuff ed with<br />
foie gras royale, and<br />
the sautéed lobster<br />
noisette. The excellent<br />
food is complemented<br />
by the outstanding<br />
wine cellar and<br />
spectacular views.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Wigwam<br />
Cocktail Bar (21<br />
Apartamentos Porto<br />
Novo, tel: 928 561<br />
413) Sip a cocktail in<br />
this warm, friendly<br />
bar, with a Native<br />
American theme and<br />
soft laidback music.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Pacha (16 Avenida<br />
Tirajana) Part of the<br />
world-famous group,<br />
Pacha in Playa del<br />
Inglés off ers top tunes<br />
in a fun atmosphere.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Calle Principal<br />
(Main Street) in<br />
Agaete is the ideal<br />
place to pick up unusual<br />
hand-crafted gifts<br />
or delicious fresh<br />
fruit and veg. A small<br />
fi shing village in the<br />
north, with narrow<br />
cobbled streets and<br />
pretty little houses,<br />
Agaete is popular<br />
with artists for its<br />
dramatic landscape<br />
and tropical fruits.<br />
SEE Carnival in<br />
March sees the<br />
usually quiet village of<br />
Maspalomas erupt in<br />
an explosion of fun<br />
and colour. Dress up,<br />
take to the streets<br />
and dance until dawn.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The highest point on<br />
the island is Pozo de las<br />
Nieves, which stands<br />
1,949m above sea level.<br />
Jan Cooney/sunnews.es<br />
Sitting comfortably?<br />
Grenoble<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Birmingham,<br />
Bristol, Liverpool,<br />
London (LGW, LTN, STN)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €80.<br />
Catch the Altitude<br />
line bus to the city<br />
centre. Tickets: €12.50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 MC2: Le<br />
Bistrot (4 Rue Paul<br />
Claudel, tel: 04 7600<br />
7954) Polish off a piece<br />
of theatre with a light<br />
gourmet supper at the<br />
Maison de Culture’s<br />
refi ned restaurant.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Le Mas<br />
Bottero (168 Cours<br />
Berriat, tel: 04 7621<br />
9533) Don’t miss the<br />
chance to visit this<br />
new restaurant, where<br />
100-year-old wisteria<br />
adds a rustic edge to the<br />
modern décor. Grenobleborn<br />
chef Nicolas<br />
Bottero trained under<br />
Alain Ducasse, and now<br />
his foie gras with quince<br />
and carpaccio of locally<br />
farmed trout excels<br />
in its own right.<br />
advertising@ink-global.com | www.ink-global.com | Tel: +44 (0)20 7613 8796<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Crêperie<br />
Blanc-Fontaine (2 Rue<br />
Blanc-Fontaine, tel: 04<br />
7646 9727) Celebrate<br />
Mardi Gras this month<br />
with a pancake with a<br />
regional twist – crêpe<br />
tartifl ette washed down<br />
with local cider.<br />
LATE & LIVELY The<br />
Druid’s Pub (3 Rue<br />
Diodore Rahoult, tel: 04<br />
3837 0885) Grenoble’s<br />
most popular Irish bar is<br />
the only place to be on St<br />
Patrick’s Day this month.<br />
Expect live music and<br />
the obligatory Guinness!<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP The perfect oldfashioned<br />
sweetshop,<br />
L’Abeille d’Or is fi lled<br />
to the brim with more<br />
than 50 kinds of<br />
sweet, chocolate and<br />
gingerbread, as well<br />
as honey made with<br />
pine, acacia and<br />
mountain fl owers<br />
(3 Rue de Strasbourg).<br />
SEE Showing this<br />
month at the Gustave<br />
Eiff el-built contemporary<br />
art centre Le Magasin is<br />
Jean Pigozzi’s collection<br />
of contemporary African<br />
art juxtaposed with his<br />
recent aquisition of<br />
500 works by young<br />
Japanese artists<br />
(155 Cours Berriat,<br />
magasin-cnac.org).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
In the fi rst century AD<br />
Grenoble was a tiny<br />
garrison town called<br />
Cularo. In the third<br />
century, under the<br />
emperor Gratien, it<br />
became Gratianopolis,<br />
then fi nally Grenoble.<br />
Anya Pope<br />
Imagine over<br />
5 million people looking<br />
at your advert adver for a minimum of two hours.<br />
Make part p of your plan today<br />
150x28 (5 MILLION) 15.09.10.indd 1 16/02/<strong>2011</strong> 12:43<br />
TAXI
Hamburg<br />
Germany<br />
DIALLING CODE +49<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Manchester, London<br />
(LGW, LTN)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €22.<br />
S1 S-Bahn trains<br />
run frequently<br />
until just after midnight.<br />
Tickets: €3.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Tassajara<br />
(4 Eppendorfer<br />
Landstrasse, tel: 040<br />
483 801) With its<br />
moreish salads and<br />
superb grilled produce,<br />
this vegetarian eatery<br />
has been at the vanguard<br />
of eco-foods since 1976.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Tiefenthal (77<br />
Isestrasse, tel: 040 4696<br />
1672) In the heart of<br />
moneyed Harvestehude,<br />
this long-time favourite<br />
serves modern German<br />
dishes with seasonally<br />
fresh ingredients to the<br />
city’s chic clique.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Juli (114<br />
Schulterblatt, tel:<br />
040 4321 4696) With<br />
its waffl ed walls and<br />
beguiling retro-inspired<br />
interiors, this raw-boned<br />
candlelit spot is perfect<br />
for pre-prandial drinks.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Grosse Freiheit 36 (36<br />
Grosse Freiheit, tel: 040<br />
3177 7811) Tucked down<br />
a side street in the heart<br />
of St Pauli, this intimate<br />
music hall features an<br />
endless rota of nightly<br />
acts, including some<br />
very convincing Beatles<br />
cover bands.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP A storehouse<br />
of superlative interior<br />
furnishings, on a<br />
cobbled street just<br />
steps from Hamburg’s<br />
Fischmarkt, Stilwerk is<br />
a one-stop multilevel<br />
shopping mall, home<br />
to big names such as<br />
Poliform-Studio, Offi cina<br />
Alessi and ligne roset,<br />
as well as elusive and<br />
über-exclusive outlets<br />
such as Tobias Grau, the<br />
famous German lighting<br />
maestro (stilwerk.de).<br />
GO Tucked into the<br />
undulate hillsides of<br />
Holsteinische Schweiz,<br />
an hour from Hamburg,<br />
Plön is an attractive,<br />
cobbled market town,<br />
complete with a<br />
turreted 17th-century<br />
chateau overlooking its<br />
crystalline lake.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The city’s 1,300seat<br />
Deutsches<br />
Schauspielhaus is one<br />
of Europe’s largest<br />
theatres and features<br />
busts of Goethe, Schiller,<br />
Lessing and Kleist.<br />
Farhad Heydari<br />
Helsinki<br />
Finland<br />
DIALLING CODE +358<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW),<br />
Manchester, Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €30.<br />
Route 615 runs<br />
to Rautatientori.<br />
Tickets: €4.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Kynsilaukka Garlic (22<br />
Fredrikinkatu, tel: 09 651<br />
939) A very charismatic<br />
place, seasoned to local<br />
taste with a pinch of<br />
eccentricity, Kynsilaukka<br />
plays tribute to garlic in<br />
its every guise. Don’t look<br />
any further if you can’t<br />
live without garlic soup,<br />
snails, cocktails, etc.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Olo (44<br />
Kasarmikatu, tel: 09 665<br />
565) Nominated Finnish<br />
Restaurant of the year<br />
2009, Olo specialises<br />
in top-quality Nordic<br />
cuisine. Signature dishes<br />
made with the best<br />
seasonal ingredients<br />
are served alongside<br />
perfectly matched wines<br />
from one of the best<br />
cellars in the city.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Cella (15<br />
Fleminginkatu, tel: 09<br />
768 430) In bohemian<br />
Kallio – without a doubt<br />
the cheapest area in<br />
town – Cella is one of<br />
the oldest bars around.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Teatteri (2<br />
Pohjoisesplanadi) Part<br />
of a top-class complex,<br />
this nightclub is a wellknown<br />
spot for the local<br />
in-crowd. The parties<br />
here are fun, hedonistic<br />
and last all night.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Helsinki 10 is<br />
worth checking out if<br />
you’re after vintage<br />
items, rare vinyl records<br />
or the world’s coolest<br />
clothing brands<br />
(3 Eerikinkatu).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The text message,<br />
lactose-free dairy<br />
products and Linux<br />
computer operating<br />
system were all<br />
invented in Finland.<br />
Evgenia Ivanova<br />
RAILWAY<br />
SQUARE<br />
GO This lively square<br />
can provide you with a<br />
whole host of choices<br />
– whether you’re<br />
looking for somewhere<br />
to eat, to sleep or do<br />
fi rst-class shopping.<br />
the Kiasma museum<br />
is nearby, too.<br />
IF YOU FIND CHEAPER WE’LL REFUND<br />
DOUBLE THE DIFFERENCE * – GOOD LUCK!<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 141<br />
Hurghada<br />
Egypt<br />
DIALLING CODE +20<br />
CURRENCY EGP<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Geneva,<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
The fare to Sakalla is<br />
EGP15, El Dahar EGP20,<br />
and further afi eld EGP25<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Granada<br />
Bistro (Sheraton Road,<br />
Hadaba, tel: 010 003<br />
3464) Awesome<br />
views, especially<br />
by day, with a wide<br />
selection of local and<br />
international dishes<br />
– try the fajitas – plus<br />
a full drinks list and<br />
never-ending shisha!<br />
EXCLUSIVE Al<br />
Dente (Continental<br />
Resort, Village Road,<br />
tel: 065 346 5110)<br />
Superb décor, tasteful<br />
design and great<br />
service all complement<br />
the delicious pasta<br />
and other delicacies<br />
at Al Dente. Be<br />
warned – don’t fi ll up<br />
on the bread baskets,<br />
but with so many<br />
varieties, you’ll need<br />
iron-strong willpower.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Da Capo<br />
(School Street, Hadaba)<br />
Now in its new home,<br />
this delightful café has<br />
decent coff ee, fresh<br />
juices, and hot and cold<br />
snacks. People-watch,<br />
make new friends and<br />
catch up with old ones.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Cacao Bar (El Dahar, in<br />
front of Three Corners<br />
Empire, tel: 012 618<br />
4861) As addictive as<br />
chocolate, Cacao Bar is<br />
open late every evening.<br />
It has drink discounts,<br />
too, to lure in the crowds<br />
and really friendly staff .<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Ram Stores<br />
has pure tourist tat and<br />
everything you could<br />
possibly want to buy as<br />
a souvenir all under one<br />
roof, with fi xed prices. It’s<br />
the perfect place to get<br />
those silly mementos or<br />
a special gift (Esplanada<br />
Mall, Village Road).<br />
SEE March is coral<br />
spawning month. For<br />
about fi ve nights after<br />
the full moon in March,<br />
the coral releases its<br />
reproductive spores into<br />
the sea, creating colours<br />
and formations not seen<br />
at any other time of year.<br />
A night dive or snorkel<br />
is a must for ecologists<br />
and coral enthusiasts.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The Khamsin is a hot<br />
southerly wind which<br />
blows in late winter to<br />
early summer. Its name,<br />
literally meaning “50”<br />
in Arabic, refers to the<br />
period in which the<br />
wind may blow.<br />
Denise Fletcher<br />
Europcar guarantees easyJet<br />
passengers great car rental deals.<br />
For your discounted price book<br />
at easyJet.com or visit the<br />
Europcar desk.<br />
* Terms & conditions apply.
142 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Innsbruck<br />
Austria<br />
DIALLING CODE +43<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Bristol, Liverpool,<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
Bus F runs to<br />
the city every 15<br />
minutes. Tickets: €1.70.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 L’Osteria<br />
(13 Herzog-Friedrich-<br />
Strasse, tel: 0512 582<br />
400) Stop here to try<br />
the specialities of the<br />
diff erent Italian regions:<br />
swordfi sh carpaccio<br />
and grilled polenta<br />
strips with blue cheese<br />
and mushrooms are<br />
good choices.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Der<br />
Pavillon (4 Rennweg,<br />
tel: 0512 257 000)<br />
Duck breast on<br />
parsnip served with<br />
spinach and pine nut<br />
dumplings is just one<br />
of the chef’s delicious<br />
creations served at<br />
this restaurant. Go for<br />
the fried gorgonzola<br />
dessert, served<br />
with pear, nuts<br />
and vanilla sauce.<br />
DESERT<br />
ADVENTURES<br />
DISCOVER<br />
JORDAN’S<br />
WILD SIDE<br />
MARCH <strong>2011</strong><br />
*YOUR FREE COPY TO<br />
TAKE AWAY WITH YOU<br />
TRAVELLER<br />
EMPIRE<br />
OF THE SUN<br />
SPAIN’S SOLAR<br />
POWERED FUTURE<br />
GO LARGE IN<br />
GOTHENBURG<br />
A TASTE OF SWEDEN’S<br />
COFFEE CAPITAL<br />
ej_cover.indd 1 09/02/<strong>2011</strong> 11:03<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Capriccio<br />
(5 Museumstrasse,<br />
tel: 0512 561 776) This<br />
patisserie is an ideal<br />
place to have a piece of<br />
cake and warm up with<br />
a hot chocolate after<br />
sightseeing. The banana<br />
cake is a must.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Dejavu (8 Herzog Otto<br />
Strasse) Particularly<br />
lively during the skiing<br />
season, this R’n’B<br />
club attracts a mixed<br />
crowd from students<br />
to fortysomething<br />
entrepreneurs<br />
holidaying in the area.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP One of the<br />
traditional Tyrolean<br />
specialities is bacon<br />
– check out the little<br />
shop Speckladele and<br />
get some to bring back<br />
home. You won’t be<br />
able to resist the aroma<br />
once you’re there<br />
(4 Stiftgasse,<br />
tel: 0512 588 816).<br />
GO If you want to take<br />
a long walk but don’t<br />
want to go hiking in<br />
the mountains, head<br />
to Schloss Ambras.<br />
Situated on a hill above<br />
the city, the castle<br />
has gardens that are<br />
beautiful all year round<br />
(20 Schlosstrasse,<br />
tel: 0512 244 802).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The collection of<br />
musical instruments at<br />
the Kunsthistorisches<br />
Museum originally<br />
comes from Schloss<br />
Ambras and contains<br />
Girolamo de Virchi’s<br />
famous cittern.<br />
Jovana Urosevic<br />
Inverness<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Bristol, London<br />
(LGW, LTN)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £19.<br />
Jet buses run<br />
to Nairns and<br />
Inverness (thejet.co.uk).<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 The Red<br />
Pepper (74 Bow Court,<br />
Church Street, tel: 01463<br />
237 111) This awardwinning<br />
coff ee and<br />
sandwich house boasts<br />
scrumptious breakfast<br />
and lunch menus,<br />
including fi lled rolls and<br />
paninis, baked potatoes<br />
and sandwiches with<br />
tasty fi llings.<br />
EXCLUSIVE The<br />
Mustard Seed (16<br />
Fraser Street, tel:<br />
01463 220 220) Set in<br />
a former 19th-century<br />
church, this restaurant<br />
has a beautiful riverside<br />
location. It serves an<br />
extensive menu of<br />
delights, including fi llet<br />
of halibut baked with<br />
pancetta wrapped in<br />
puff pastry with thyme.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Bar One<br />
(1 Academy Street, tel:<br />
01463 714 471) Enjoy<br />
a cocktail at this classy<br />
venue in the heart of<br />
the city. The extensive<br />
drinks menu has many<br />
cocktails, and the varied<br />
wine list has something<br />
for everyone.<br />
LATE & LIVELY Hush<br />
(57 Academy Street,<br />
tel: 01463 248 819)<br />
Sit back and relax or<br />
dance the night away at<br />
Hush, the city’s premier<br />
nightclub. It boasts<br />
fantastic DJs playing<br />
a variety of music, and<br />
a well-stocked bar.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Mania is a small<br />
boutique in the city<br />
centre with a fantastic<br />
range of women’s and<br />
men’s clothing. With<br />
a massive choice of<br />
the latest brands such<br />
as G-Star, Gio Gio and<br />
Lipsy, there’s sure to<br />
be something that<br />
takes your fancy<br />
(9 Drummond Street).<br />
GO A family-run<br />
business since 1797,<br />
Johnstons of Elgin is<br />
well worth a visit.<br />
Enjoy the fascinating<br />
heritage centre and<br />
take a tour around the<br />
factory to discover the<br />
traditional techniques<br />
used to make its<br />
renowned cashmere<br />
pieces (Newmill, Elgin,<br />
tel: 01343 554 099).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Loch Ness contains<br />
more fresh water than<br />
all the lakes in England<br />
and Wales put together.<br />
Beverley Tricker<br />
Isle of Man<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Liverpool<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £19.<br />
Buses run every<br />
half an hour.<br />
Tickets: £2.30.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 14 North<br />
(14 North Quay)<br />
This contemporary,<br />
environmentally<br />
conscious eatery prides<br />
itself on its use of fresh<br />
Are you interested in advertising to<br />
5m passengers per month?<br />
Please contact our advertising sales team<br />
on 0044 (0) 207 613 8796<br />
local produce whenever<br />
possible. Order the<br />
queenies (scallops) off<br />
the menu made from<br />
recycled elephant dung.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Jurgens<br />
(Victory Court, Douglas,<br />
tel: 01624 660 557)<br />
Jurgens is a mecca for<br />
carnivores as it serves<br />
more than 20 diff erent<br />
types of meat. Exotic<br />
varieties, including<br />
ostrich, impala and<br />
bison, are its speciality,<br />
and animal prints<br />
dominate the décor.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY The Bridge<br />
(North Quay, Douglas,<br />
tel: 01624 675 268) Join<br />
the regulars enjoying an<br />
after-work pint in this<br />
laidback quayside pub.<br />
Its lunches are popular<br />
with local offi ce workers.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Amber (Chesterhouse<br />
Hotel, Douglas)<br />
Known for its live<br />
music at weekends,<br />
this basement bar<br />
showcases up-andcoming<br />
local bands.<br />
A DJ entertains till 1am.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Chocolates,<br />
candles, ceramics and<br />
skincare products are<br />
among the diverse<br />
range at MostlyManx,<br />
an artisan co-operative<br />
of local handicrafts (25<br />
Nelson Street, Douglas,<br />
mostlymanx.com).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The island has the<br />
longest narrow-gauge<br />
steam railway in British<br />
Isles. It runs 26km, from<br />
Douglas to Port Erin.<br />
Kate Youde<br />
00000 EasyJet Sales 5mil Banner.indd 1 10/02/<strong>2011</strong> 12:24<br />
TAXI<br />
MOSCOW<br />
STATE CIRCUS<br />
SEE Expect<br />
contortionists, clowns,<br />
and people catapulting<br />
across the stage with<br />
Legenda, a show<br />
themed around the<br />
dreams of Rasputin.<br />
From 1–3 March<br />
(Gaiety Theatre).
Istanbul<br />
Turkey<br />
DIALLING CODE +90<br />
CURRENCY Lira (TRY)<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
London (LGW, LTN)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs TRY35.<br />
E3 buses run<br />
hourly to Levent,<br />
where the metro goes to<br />
Taksim Square. Tickets:<br />
TRY4.50. Havas buses<br />
run to Taksim Square.<br />
Tickets: TRY12.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Salad<br />
Station (189b Istiklal<br />
Caddesi, Beyoglu, tel:<br />
0212 243 0127) Choose<br />
from the widest range of<br />
salads you’ve probably<br />
ever seen – 36 toppings,<br />
26 premium toppings<br />
and 14 vinagrettes.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Supper<br />
Club (65 Muallim Naci<br />
Caddesi, Ortakoy, tel:<br />
0212 261 1988) This is<br />
the Istanbul branch of<br />
an international chain<br />
of free-and-easy food<br />
and music venues.<br />
The exclusive clientèle,<br />
Bosphorus views and<br />
creative menu make<br />
for a heady experience.<br />
<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Balkon (5<br />
Sehbender Sokak) A topfl<br />
oor bar with fantastic<br />
views over the city from<br />
the terrace, where a DJ<br />
plays the latest tunes.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Salon (5 Sadi Konuralp<br />
Caddesi, Sishane) Hip<br />
new performance space<br />
off ering an eclectic<br />
programme of pop,<br />
classical and jazz acts.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP La Cave is<br />
Istanbul’s fi rst and bestknown<br />
dedicated wine<br />
store. It stocks wines<br />
from all over Turkey (109<br />
Sıraselviler Caddesi).<br />
SEE Chinese artist Yao<br />
Lu photographs rubbish<br />
piles and reworks the<br />
results to look like<br />
Chinese paintings.<br />
Catch the results at<br />
Istanbul Modern gallery.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Istanbul has 17,400<br />
taxis – one for every<br />
1.4km of road.<br />
David O’Byrne<br />
BARCELO<br />
SARAY<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
A luxurious retreat in<br />
the heart of Istanbul’s<br />
historic centre. Relax<br />
in the plush and<br />
stylish surroundings.<br />
All inclusive. From<br />
€160, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
Jersey<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Liverpool<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £16.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Halkett<br />
Pub & Eating House<br />
(Halkett Place, St Helier,<br />
tel: 01534 732 769)<br />
Recently refurbished,<br />
this busy town-centre<br />
restaurant, pub and<br />
disco serves wellprepared<br />
favourites<br />
such as American-style<br />
stack burger and<br />
battered fi sh and chips.<br />
There are 16 diff erent<br />
wines by the glass too.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Tassili<br />
(Esplanade, St Helier,<br />
tel: 01534 722 301)<br />
Part of the luxury Grand<br />
Jersey hotel, Tassili<br />
off ers an imaginative<br />
and luxurious menu.<br />
Even the ploughman’s<br />
at Tassili is no ordinary<br />
ploughman’s. Befi tting<br />
one of Jersey’s top<br />
restaurants, it includes<br />
bouton d’oc goat’s<br />
cheese, Jabugo ham,<br />
truffl ed quail’s egg,<br />
apple jelly and white<br />
balsamic mayonnaise.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY The Old<br />
Smuggler’s Inn (Le<br />
Mont du Ouaisne, St<br />
Brelade) Down a road<br />
leading to Ouaisne<br />
Beach, the inn is a<br />
favourite with real ale<br />
experts. The inn is said<br />
to have been created<br />
on the site of two 13thcentury<br />
cottages.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
La Cala (22 Beresford<br />
Street, St Helier) Open<br />
seven days a week,<br />
La Cala is a clubber’s<br />
favourite as well as an<br />
attractive restaurant<br />
and piano bar. There’s<br />
also a terrace for when<br />
the weather is fi ne.<br />
TAXI TAXI<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP St Helier’s<br />
historic Central Market<br />
receives the year’s fi rst<br />
crop of famous Jersey<br />
Royal potatoes this<br />
month. There are plenty<br />
of other vegetables,<br />
fruits, fi sh and fl owers<br />
on display too, as well<br />
as coff ee shops.<br />
SEE Top designers will<br />
be in Jersey from 7–13<br />
March for the annual<br />
Jersey Textile Showcase.<br />
There are workshops,<br />
talks and exhibitions<br />
around St Aubin (The<br />
Harbour Gallery, tel:<br />
01534 853 395).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The US state New<br />
Jersey was named after<br />
the Channel Island<br />
because a Jerseyman<br />
was given the land in<br />
the 17th century.<br />
Peter Body<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 143<br />
Kos<br />
Greece<br />
DIALLING CODE +30<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxis cost €35.<br />
There are three<br />
daily buses to Kos<br />
Town. Tickets: €3.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Pote tin<br />
Kyriaki (9 Peisandrou,<br />
Kos Old Town, tel: 22420<br />
48460) The town’s<br />
longest-running ouzerí<br />
off ers indoor seating<br />
and platters such as<br />
marathópita (fennel pie),<br />
kavourdisti (pork fry-up)<br />
and seafood, washed<br />
down by strong rakí.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Stadium<br />
(26 Vassileos Georgiou,<br />
tel: 22420 27880) An<br />
Italian-era seaside<br />
building now hosts<br />
Kos Town’s favourite<br />
chic, Mediterranean<br />
restaurant. Starters<br />
such as spicy chicken<br />
livers and manouri<br />
cheese and pinigouri<br />
salad are more creative<br />
than the grilled mains.<br />
Expect effi cient service<br />
and a wide wine list.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Aenaos<br />
(Platia Eleftherias)<br />
This little café, tucked<br />
into the base of the<br />
Defterdar Mosque,<br />
specialises in novelty<br />
hot chocolates, teas and<br />
coff ees, especially kafés<br />
sti hóvoli or Greek coff ee<br />
made over hot sand.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Fashion Club (2 Kanari<br />
Street, Dolphins Square)<br />
Going strong since the<br />
late 1980s, this huge<br />
venue converted from a<br />
former cinema gets<br />
a mixed crowd as well<br />
as the fashionistas<br />
predicted by its name.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP The Old Town<br />
is a great place to start<br />
your shopping. Meander<br />
around and you will<br />
fi nd all your holiday<br />
needs catered for, plus<br />
souvenirs and great<br />
local delicacies, such as<br />
honey. Most shops are<br />
open until 10pm, and<br />
after sundown there is<br />
a lovely atmosphere.<br />
GO Winter and spring<br />
are the best seafood<br />
seasons in Greece, owing<br />
to migratory patterns<br />
and fi shery laws. The<br />
fi shmongers will be fi lled<br />
with scaly fi sh, marinated<br />
ouzo seafood snacks<br />
such as limpets and the<br />
mysterious foúskes.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The middle of Kos is<br />
so low-lying that from<br />
Kálymnos island to<br />
the north, you can see<br />
straight across to the<br />
peak of Níssyros islet<br />
south of Kos.<br />
Marc Dubin
144 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Krakow<br />
Poland<br />
DIALLING CODE +48<br />
CURRENCY Zloty (PLN)<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Belfast (BFS),<br />
Bristol, Dortmund,<br />
Edinburgh, Liverpool,<br />
London (LGW),<br />
Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs PLN80.<br />
Trains leave every<br />
30 minutes till<br />
12.15am. Tickets: PLN6.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Marchewka z<br />
Groszkiem (2 Ulica<br />
Mostowa, tel: 012 430<br />
0795) You’ll fi nd this<br />
restaurant by the snazzy<br />
new footbridge that links<br />
Kazimierz with Podgorze.<br />
Expect homely<br />
Polish classics with<br />
a dash of 1930s style.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Szara<br />
Restaurant (6 Rynek<br />
Glowny, tel: 012 421<br />
6669) Sweep someone<br />
off their feet at this<br />
glamorous venue right<br />
on the square. A gothic<br />
vault provides a romantic<br />
backdrop, while the<br />
service is professional<br />
but not stuff y.<br />
<br />
<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Café<br />
Rekawka (4A Ulica<br />
Brodzinskiego, tel: 012<br />
296 2002) Worthy of the<br />
tag “hidden gem”, this<br />
café is on the side of the<br />
new footbridge between<br />
Kazimierz and Podgorze.<br />
Comfy armchairs prop<br />
up literary types.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Lodz Kaliska (15 Ulica<br />
Florianska) This is<br />
a kitsch labyrinth that’s<br />
brimming with mockbaroque<br />
chaise longues<br />
and pictures of nudists.<br />
Popular with trendy<br />
twentysomethings.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP The recently<br />
restored Sukiennice<br />
(Cloth Hall), which<br />
straddles the square,<br />
has stall after stall selling<br />
local knick-knacks from<br />
hand-carved chess sets<br />
to woollen slippers.<br />
GO The Podgorze<br />
district has recently<br />
gained a gallery of<br />
contemporary art<br />
(MOCAK) and a<br />
museum chronicling the<br />
Nazi occupation, both<br />
on the site of the former<br />
Schindler factory. A<br />
cluster of hip bars has<br />
emerged nearby too.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Countless houses have<br />
whimsical sculptures –<br />
elephants, bells, lizards<br />
– over their entrances.<br />
Street numbers weren’t<br />
introduced to Krakow<br />
until the late 18th<br />
century, and these<br />
helped postmen<br />
fi nd their way.<br />
Nick Hodge/<br />
cracow-life.com<br />
Lamezia<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Milan (MXP),<br />
Rome (FCO)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
Routes 4 and 5<br />
go to the centre.<br />
Tickets: €0.77.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Sabbia<br />
d’Oro (1 Via Piano<br />
delle Donne, Belvedere<br />
Marittimo, tel: 0985<br />
88456) Sabbia d’Oro,<br />
between Diamante and<br />
Belvedere Marittimo,<br />
is known for its spicy<br />
infusion of traditional<br />
seafood dishes. If it’s<br />
available, try the peppercrusted<br />
swordfi sh.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Pimm’s (14 Largo<br />
Migliarese, Tropea)<br />
Consistently rated one<br />
of the best restaurants<br />
in Calabria, Pimm’s is an<br />
underground venue in<br />
Tropea’s historical centre<br />
that serves innovative<br />
seafood dishes<br />
such as sea urchin,<br />
smoked swordfi sh<br />
and stuff ed squid.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Le Volpi e<br />
L’ Uva (11 Via Garibaldi,<br />
Tropea, tel: 0963<br />
61900) Le Volpi e L’ Uva<br />
is a trendy wine bar in<br />
Tropea with friendly<br />
staff . It serves generous<br />
seafood antipasto<br />
dishes alongside good<br />
local wine.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Atmosfera (18 Via<br />
Donnici, Roccelletta<br />
di Borgia, tel: 0961<br />
955 150) Near the<br />
Scolacium ruins in<br />
Catanzaro, you’ll fi nd<br />
one of Calabria’s rare<br />
year-round clubs.<br />
Locals head here every<br />
weekend to meet up<br />
and have a drink with<br />
their friends.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Visit<br />
Casamaierà near<br />
Diamante for<br />
locally made liquor,<br />
marmalade and other<br />
Calabrese specialities.<br />
If you call in advance,<br />
you can tour the factory<br />
(80 Via Arieste, Maierà,<br />
tel: 0985 889 300).<br />
SEE If you’re near<br />
Civita in the Pollino<br />
Massif, stop by Museo<br />
Etnico Arbëresh (Ethnic<br />
Museum of Albanian<br />
Culture) for an insight<br />
into Calabria’s ancient<br />
Albanian history.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
According to legend,<br />
Scilla near Reggio<br />
Calabria was home<br />
to the mythological<br />
sea monster Scylla,<br />
made famous in<br />
Homer’s Odyssey.<br />
Cherrye Moore/<br />
my-bellavita.com<br />
Lanzarote<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Liverpool, London<br />
(LGW), Madrid<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €12.<br />
Buses 22 and 23<br />
stop at Playa del<br />
Reducto and Arrecife,<br />
from 7am–10.25pm.<br />
Tickets: €1.15.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Sakura<br />
(106 Calle José Antonio<br />
Primo de Rivera, Arrecife,<br />
BOCAYNA<br />
STRAIT<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Lanzarote and<br />
Fuerteventura are part<br />
of the same geological<br />
structure and were<br />
a single island during<br />
the last Ice Age. Today,<br />
they’re separated<br />
by just 10km of water.<br />
tel: 928 597 638) This<br />
Japanese restaurant’s<br />
all-you-can-eat conveyor-<br />
belt menu off ers superb<br />
value for money at just<br />
€15 for dinner.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Quintins<br />
Restaurante (25G<br />
Avenida Juan Carlos I,<br />
tel: 928 515 755)<br />
Chef Finn O’Sullivan<br />
off ers superb modern<br />
European cuisine at his<br />
well-established eatery<br />
in Puerto del Carmén.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY One Bar<br />
(Marina Rubicón, Playa<br />
Blanca, tel: 928 349 930)<br />
One Bar is the perfect<br />
place to watch the sun<br />
go down while enjoying a<br />
beer or cocktail.<br />
LATE & LIVELY Aché<br />
Bar (Centro Atlántico,<br />
Puerto del Carmen)<br />
Dance the night away to<br />
salsa at this late-night<br />
bar. It doesn’t get<br />
busy until very late,<br />
so pace yourself.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP For some<br />
authentic Lanzarote<br />
surf wear, head to Santa<br />
– a local surfboard<br />
manufacturer and<br />
clothing brand. This<br />
outlet is in Playa Blanca<br />
(123 Calle Limones).<br />
SEE Carnival falls at<br />
the beginning of the<br />
month but the party<br />
goes on throughout<br />
March. Puerto del<br />
Carmén celebrates its<br />
carnival from 10–12<br />
March. Costa Teguise<br />
closes the festivities<br />
with its carnival, which<br />
climaxes on 27 March.<br />
Ashley Wootton/<br />
DiscoverLanzarote.com
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DIALLING CODE +44<br />
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FLY FROM<br />
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FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £20.<br />
Buses leave every<br />
30 minutes to both<br />
cities. Tickets: £2.50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet off ers.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Art’s Cafe<br />
Bar (42 Call Lane, tel:<br />
0113 243 8243) This<br />
bar-bistro is a popular<br />
spot with the young<br />
professional crowd. Make<br />
sure you try the Yorkshire<br />
plate for a true taste<br />
of the area, including<br />
Wensleydale cheese.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Vennell’s<br />
Restaurant (7 Silver<br />
Street, Masham, Ripon,<br />
tel: 01765 689 000)<br />
With two AA rosettes<br />
and mentions in the<br />
Good Food Guide, this<br />
is one restaurant to<br />
book in advance. Head<br />
chef Jon Vennell learnt<br />
his trade in the city’s<br />
top hotel restaurants.<br />
In 2005 he opened his<br />
own establishment,<br />
determined to serve<br />
fresh local produce<br />
handled with care and<br />
served sympathetically.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY The<br />
Cuthbert Brodrick<br />
(99 Portland Crescent,<br />
tel: 0113 204 8570) Not<br />
your usual chain bar,<br />
The Cuthbert Brodrick<br />
takes its name from the<br />
architect who designed<br />
Leeds Town Hall and<br />
the Corn Exchange.<br />
This bar serves great<br />
drinks, and you’ll fi nd<br />
a vibrant atmosphere.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Nation of Shopkeepers<br />
(27–37 Cookridge Street,<br />
tel: 0113 203 1831)<br />
Imported beers and<br />
real ales complement<br />
DJs and live bands once<br />
the sun sets. Nation of<br />
Shopkeepers is defi nitely<br />
the place to see urban<br />
hipsters and the indie set.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Aspecto is a<br />
menswear shop located<br />
in the city centre. Very<br />
friendly staff help<br />
you choose between<br />
diff erent brand names<br />
(1 Queen Victoria Street,<br />
aspecto.co.uk).<br />
GO The Hepworth<br />
Gallery will hold<br />
a collection of 40<br />
sculptures by local artist<br />
Barbara Hepworth,<br />
alongside works by<br />
international artists<br />
(hepworthwakefi eld.org).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
About a third of all UK<br />
internet traffi c is hosted<br />
in Leeds, with more<br />
ISDN lines per head of<br />
population than any<br />
other city in the world.<br />
Gina Davies<br />
Lisbon<br />
Portugal<br />
DIALLING CODE +351<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Barcelona,<br />
Basel-Mulhouse, Berlin,<br />
Bristol, Edinburgh,<br />
Geneva, Liverpool,<br />
London (LGW, LTN),<br />
Lyon, Madeira, Madrid,<br />
Milan (MXP), Paris<br />
(CDG), Rome (FCO),<br />
Toulouse<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Worldwide Relocation<br />
Fine Art & Antiques Shipping<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
The Aerobus<br />
leaves every 20<br />
minutes. Tickets: €3.50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Cantina<br />
Lx Factory (103<br />
Rua Rodrigues Faria,<br />
Alcântara, tel: 21<br />
314 3399) Scarcely<br />
renovated, this old<br />
workshop in the creative<br />
Lx Factory area has a<br />
limited menu – it is, after<br />
all, a canteen – but it<br />
does good, cheap food in<br />
an amazing space. Much<br />
of the cuisine comes out<br />
from the huge oven in<br />
the centre of the room.<br />
UP TO €30 Passage<br />
to India (45 Avenida<br />
Praia da Vitória, tel: 21<br />
354 4073) Something<br />
of an oasis in an area<br />
that is gastronomically<br />
unpromising, this is a<br />
classy joint with cool<br />
décor and sophisticated<br />
service. It has a popular<br />
lunchtime buff et.<br />
Passage to India also<br />
has an extensive<br />
á la carte menu and<br />
decent wine list.<br />
UP TO €50<br />
Pap’Açorda (57–59 Rua<br />
da Atalaia, tel: 21 346<br />
4811) Right in the heart<br />
of Bairro Alto, this is the<br />
place to fi nd a bit of glam<br />
and glitz. The cuisine is<br />
a contemporary take on<br />
Portuguese classics.<br />
Be sure to book.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Restaurant Flores<br />
(Hotel de Bairro Alto,<br />
2 Praça Luís de<br />
Camões, tel: 21 340<br />
8252) A hotel restaurant<br />
bang in the centre of<br />
things that’s far more<br />
stylish than most and<br />
boasts an adventurous<br />
menu with variations<br />
on Portuguese and<br />
Mediterranean staples.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Botequim<br />
(79 Largo da Graça,<br />
tel: 21 888 8511) A<br />
legendary hang-out of<br />
artists and intellectuals,<br />
this small bar has<br />
recently reopened<br />
with food, drinks and<br />
a programme of music<br />
and poetry readings.<br />
LIVE MUSIC Casino<br />
Lisboa Arena Lounge<br />
(Alameda dos Oceanos,<br />
tel: 21 892 9000)<br />
This sparkling, glitzy,<br />
glamorous casino off ers<br />
some free treats too.<br />
The Arena Lounge has<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 147<br />
free concerts most<br />
nights starting at 9pm,<br />
mostly – but not always<br />
– featuring jazz.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Jamaica (6 Rua Nova do<br />
Carvalho, Cais de Sodre,<br />
tel: 21 342 1859) One of<br />
the old waterfront joints,<br />
once popular<br />
with seamen, Jamaica<br />
retains a whiff of its<br />
raffi sh past, but it’s<br />
now one of the best<br />
places to listen to<br />
reggae music in the city.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP A Outra Face da<br />
Lua continues to be the<br />
best downtown outlet<br />
for vintage clothes and<br />
other artefacts. It also<br />
boasts a pleasant café<br />
with tables outside. Just<br />
around the corner is an<br />
overspill warehouse with<br />
many cheaper treats for<br />
the less-discerning buyer<br />
(22 Rua da Assunção).<br />
SEE The New York<br />
gypsy-punk combo<br />
Gogol Bordello will be<br />
at the Campo Pequeno<br />
bullring on 7 March<br />
EUROSTARS<br />
DAS LETRAS<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
This little taste of<br />
Lisbon luxury off ers<br />
a unique stay with a<br />
literary theme. Each<br />
room is dedicated to<br />
a celebrated writer.<br />
From €89, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
(campopequeno.com);<br />
Joan Wasser in her<br />
challenging guise of<br />
Joan as Policewoman<br />
will be at the Lisbon<br />
Casino on 13 March<br />
(casino-lisboa.pt), and<br />
on 20 March thousands<br />
will be running in the<br />
huge Lisbon halfmarathon(lisbonhalf-marathon.com).<br />
GO The Principe Real<br />
garden is one of the hubs<br />
of fashionable Lisbon<br />
life, and the surrounding<br />
streets and squares<br />
have lots to off er the<br />
casual stroller. As well<br />
as a host of classy<br />
bars, restaurants and<br />
designer shops, there’s<br />
also the stupendous and<br />
neglected delight of the<br />
botanical garden and<br />
the Patriarchal Reservoir,<br />
which has an entrance<br />
in the garden itself.<br />
ESCAPE Setúbal,<br />
Portugal’s third city, is<br />
under an hour from the<br />
capital. It may not be the<br />
most beautiful of cities,<br />
but it’s well situated and<br />
has plenty of attractions,<br />
including the Troia<br />
peninsula just a ferry<br />
ride away and the lovely<br />
Arrábida hills to the west.<br />
In the city itself, the only<br />
notable monument is the<br />
Manueline Monastery of<br />
Jesus, with its incredible<br />
twisted columns.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The queen of pastelarias<br />
(cake shops) has to be<br />
Fábrica de Pastéis de<br />
Nata in Belém, which<br />
has been turning out<br />
thousands of delectable<br />
little custard tarts every<br />
day since 1837.<br />
Jonathan Weightman<br />
We have been moving across Europe and The World for 40 years.<br />
Trust us to get that Renoir safely back or to move your furniture to<br />
your new home. Just call us for a chat and to discuss what we can<br />
do to help you...<br />
+44 (0)20 8832 2222<br />
E: stephen@shipsms.co.uk www.shipsms.co.uk
148 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Liverpool<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Alicante,<br />
Amsterdam, Barcelona,<br />
Belfast (BFS), Berlin,<br />
Bodrum, Bordeaux,<br />
Brussels, Faro,<br />
Fuerteventura, Geneva,<br />
Gibraltar, Grenoble,<br />
Ibiza, Innsbruck, Isle of<br />
Man, Jersey, Krakow,<br />
Lanzarote, Lisbon, Lyon,<br />
Madrid, Majorca, Málaga,<br />
Malta, Menorca, Naples,<br />
Nice, Paris (CDG),<br />
Rhodes, Salzburg, Tallinn<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £15.<br />
The 500 departs<br />
every 30 minutes<br />
for the city centre.<br />
Tickets: £2.60.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15<br />
Mangetout (21–23<br />
Old Hall Street, tel:<br />
0151 227 4878) In an<br />
area fast becoming the<br />
city’s commercial hub,<br />
Mangetout is an ideal<br />
refuelling point, with<br />
porridge for breakfast<br />
and sandwiches,<br />
soups and hot food for<br />
lunch. Daytime only.<br />
23 - 27 March<br />
35 stands of Art,<br />
Silver, Glass,<br />
Porcelain,<br />
Furniture,<br />
Jewellery etc<br />
Wednesday 2-8<br />
Thurs-Sat 11-6<br />
Sunday 11-5<br />
UP TO €30 Lunya<br />
(18–20 College Lane, tel:<br />
0151 706 9770) Set in a<br />
converted 18th-century<br />
warehouse in Liverpool<br />
One, Lunya sources<br />
fi ne artisan Spanish<br />
ingredients, fusing food<br />
from Catalonia and the<br />
north west of England<br />
to produce tapas such<br />
as Iberico ham and leek<br />
croquetas with Lake<br />
District pickle.<br />
UP TO €50 Da Piero<br />
(5 Mill Hill Road, Irby,<br />
Wirral, tel: 0151 648<br />
7373) The Michelin<br />
Guide speaks well of<br />
this homely, family-run<br />
business. Italian<br />
chef-proprietor Piero di<br />
Bella pours all his Latin<br />
passion into the food,<br />
with emphasis on Sicilian<br />
country cooking. It’s half<br />
an hour from Liverpool,<br />
but you’re unlikely<br />
to be disappointed.<br />
EXCLUSIVE The<br />
Exchange (3 Thomas<br />
Steers Way, tel: 0151 708<br />
4200) Seasonal and<br />
local cuisine is a priority<br />
at one of the newest<br />
branches of the Hilton<br />
hotel chain, overlooking<br />
the historic Albert Dock.<br />
Try braised and roasted<br />
Pennine venison with<br />
mulled pear.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY The Beer<br />
House (Contemporary<br />
Urban Centre, 41–51<br />
Greenland Street) Close<br />
to the docks, the bar<br />
of this charity-run arts<br />
centre has a welcoming,<br />
lived-in atmosphere plus,<br />
an excellent selection<br />
of world beers and bar<br />
food. Profi ts help the<br />
socially disadvantaged.<br />
LIVE MUSIC The<br />
Zanzibar Club (43 Seel<br />
Street) The Zanzibar<br />
Club’s customers lend<br />
this small independent<br />
venue with an easy-going<br />
ambience. An intimate<br />
environment for<br />
watching live gigs from<br />
both established and upand-coming<br />
bands.<br />
LATE & LIVELY The<br />
Magnet (45 Hardman<br />
Street, tel: 0151 709<br />
7560) Close to the<br />
city’s cultural quarter,<br />
the instinctive cool<br />
generated by The<br />
Magnet attracts the art<br />
crowd. Repose in velvetladen<br />
booths upstairs,<br />
or join the dancing<br />
and DJs downstairs.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Aside from<br />
continental produce,<br />
Delifonseca stocks<br />
a wide range of British<br />
foodstuff s, such as prizewinning<br />
local bacon<br />
and Stinking Bishop<br />
cheese. Both branches<br />
feature award-winning<br />
sandwiches to take<br />
HEYWOOD<br />
HOUSE HOTEL<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
This elegant hotel<br />
blends old with new,<br />
having once been the<br />
fi rst bank in the city,<br />
now providing a chic<br />
place to stay. From<br />
€78, book at hotels.<br />
easyJet.com.<br />
away and restaurants<br />
attracting rave reviews<br />
(12 Stanley Street).<br />
SEE The neo-classical<br />
Walker Art Gallery<br />
hosts an exhibition<br />
throughout the month<br />
featuring 60 stunning<br />
paintings spanning fi ve<br />
centuries and normally<br />
unseen in public. Works<br />
by Old Masters Rubens,<br />
El Greco and Delacroix<br />
are featured alongside<br />
those by impressionists<br />
Pissaro and Sisley<br />
(William Brown Street).<br />
GO Few manage to walk<br />
the length of Lark Lane<br />
without stopping at<br />
one of the myriad bars,<br />
restaurants and quirky<br />
independent shops<br />
inhabiting this attractive<br />
slice of south Liverpool,<br />
10 minutes by cab from<br />
the city centre. At one<br />
end is Sefton Park,<br />
which has undergone<br />
a multi-million<br />
pound regeneration.<br />
ESCAPE More than<br />
eight million visitors<br />
head for the rugged<br />
peaks and tranquil lakes<br />
of Cumbria every year.<br />
Created in the Ice Age,<br />
the Lake District is one of<br />
the UK’s most beautiful<br />
regions, with England’s<br />
highest mountain and<br />
deepest lake. Reach the<br />
southern slopes in under<br />
two hours from the city.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The Royal Liverpool<br />
Philharmonic<br />
Orchestra was the fi rst<br />
to play underwater<br />
– performing below<br />
the River Mersey to<br />
celebrate the road<br />
tunnel’s 60th birthday.<br />
Gerry Corner<br />
Both events in<br />
Chelsea Old Town Hall,<br />
Kings Road, SW3 5EE<br />
Mention “Traveller” for<br />
Complimentary Entry<br />
Ljubljana<br />
Slovenia<br />
DIALLING CODE +386<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (STN),<br />
Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €45.<br />
Buses leave every<br />
hour till 8pm.<br />
Tickets: €4.10.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Joe<br />
Pena’s Cantina y<br />
Bar (6 Cankarjeva,<br />
tel: 01 421 5800) For<br />
a Mexican vibe, make<br />
a beeline for this fun<br />
cantina. Enjoy cool<br />
cocktails and<br />
all manner of wraps<br />
and spicy sauces.<br />
EXCLUSIVE River<br />
House (31 Gallusovo<br />
Nabrezje, tel: 01 425<br />
4090) Recline by the<br />
river in the Old Town<br />
and enjoy a glass of<br />
excellent Slovenian<br />
wine as you savour<br />
pasta laced with<br />
Istrian truffl es or white<br />
fi sh freshly plucked<br />
from the Adriatic at<br />
one of the trendiest<br />
of the city’s more<br />
expensive restaurants.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Salon<br />
(23 Trubarjeva) Not as<br />
trendy as it once was,<br />
which makes this Old<br />
Town option is a great<br />
bolthole for a creamy hot<br />
chocolate or something<br />
with a bit more of an<br />
alcoholic hit as you kick<br />
off the evening.<br />
LATE & LIVELY Ultra<br />
Club (6 Nazorjeva)<br />
This is where the locals<br />
come to dance to<br />
happy house and trance<br />
sounds. Some decent<br />
local DJs and an upfor-it<br />
vibe help get<br />
the party started.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Midas is a<br />
fashion treasure-trove<br />
off ering great bargains<br />
for those looking to burn<br />
their euros. It describes<br />
itself as a “multidesigner<br />
store”. If you want to<br />
dress to impress for<br />
a night out, this is the<br />
place to stock up (3<br />
Ajdovsina, tel: 01 300<br />
4600, midas.si).<br />
GO Break south of<br />
the centre and enter<br />
another world, where<br />
old ladies tend their<br />
allotments and the river<br />
idles lazily by in Krakovo.<br />
There are some decent<br />
eating options here too.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Slovenia has its very<br />
own tragic romantic<br />
poet. When not penning<br />
evocative words, Francè<br />
Preseren was wrapped in<br />
the passions and torture<br />
of unrequited love, as<br />
his dramatic statue on<br />
the city’s main square<br />
demonstrates.<br />
robinmckelvie.com<br />
1 - 3 April<br />
35 Galleries of<br />
Contemporary &<br />
Modern Paintings<br />
& Sculptures.<br />
Friday 11-8,<br />
Saturday 11-7,<br />
Sunday 11-6.
Main Sponsor: Media Partner: PRICE GUARANTEE<br />
We have kept our prices very low for <strong>2011</strong>,<br />
some lower than 2010, and there is now NO<br />
booking fee! We guarantee that the prices<br />
we launch with will be the same prices<br />
throughout i.e. no discounts. So buy now with<br />
confidence to get the best seats and/or a<br />
guaranteed ticket (subject to availability).
150 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
London<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Aberdeen, Agadir,<br />
Alicante, Almería,<br />
Amman, Amsterdam,<br />
Antalya, Asturias,<br />
Athens, Barcelona,<br />
Basel-Mulhouse, Bastia<br />
(Corsica), Berlin, Belfast<br />
(BHD, BFS), Biarritz,<br />
Bilbao, Bodrum, Bologna,<br />
Bordeaux, Budapest,<br />
Cagliari (Sardinia),<br />
Cologne/Bonn,<br />
Copenhagen, Corfu,<br />
Corsica (Ajaccio), Corsica<br />
(Bastia), Crete (Chania),<br />
Crete (Heraklion), Cyprus<br />
(Larnaca), Cyprus<br />
(Paphos), Dalaman,<br />
Dortmund, Dubrovnik,<br />
Düsseldorf, Edinburgh,<br />
Faro, Fuerteventura,<br />
Geneva, Gibraltar,<br />
Glasgow, Gothenburg,<br />
Gran Canaria, Grenoble,<br />
Hamburg, Helsinki,<br />
Hurghada, Ibiza,<br />
Innsbruck, Istanbul,<br />
Inverness, Izmir, Kos,<br />
Krakow, Lanzarote,<br />
La Rochelle, Lisbon,<br />
Ljubljana, Luxor, Lyon,<br />
Madeira, Madrid,<br />
Majorca, Málaga, Malta,<br />
Marrakech, Marseille,<br />
Menorca, Milan (MXP,<br />
LIN), Montpellier, Munich,<br />
Murcia, Mykonos, Nantes,<br />
Naples, Nice, Newcastle,<br />
Olbia, Palermo, Paris<br />
(CDG), Pisa, Porto,<br />
Prague, Rhodes, Rome<br />
(FCO), Salzburg,<br />
Santorini, Seville,<br />
Sharm El Sheikh, Sofi a,<br />
Split, Tallinn, Tel Aviv,<br />
Tenerife, Thessaloniki,<br />
Toulouse, Turin, Valencia,<br />
Venice, Verona, Vienna,<br />
Zagreb, Zante, Zürich<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
LUTON<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com<br />
A local taxi costs £100<br />
to central London.<br />
National Express<br />
tickets can be<br />
bought onboard.<br />
Tickets: £14 single; £19<br />
return. Ask your cabin<br />
crew for details.<br />
Trains from Luton<br />
Airport Parkway go<br />
to London St Pancras.<br />
Tickets: £12 single<br />
(fi rstcapital<br />
connect.co.uk).<br />
GATWICK<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com<br />
A local taxi costs £100.<br />
The Gatwick<br />
Express to London<br />
Victoria runs every<br />
15 minutes from<br />
4.35am–1.35am.<br />
Exclusive easyJet<br />
discounted fares<br />
available when you buy<br />
onboard. Ask your cabin<br />
crew for details.<br />
STANSTED<br />
TAXI<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
£120 to London.<br />
National Express<br />
runs a bus service<br />
to London Victoria.<br />
Tickets: £17 return.<br />
The Stansted<br />
Express runs<br />
every 15–30 minutes<br />
until 00.30am. Exclusive<br />
easyJet discounted<br />
fares available when you<br />
love noodles?<br />
love wagamama<br />
28 london locations | wagamama.com<br />
buy onboard. Ask your<br />
cabin crew for details.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Chop’d<br />
(2 Horner Square, E1)<br />
This bright and buzzy<br />
gourmet salad stop<br />
is an inspirational<br />
lunch choice for those<br />
tired of standard<br />
sandwiches and limp<br />
lettuce leaves. Chop’d<br />
serves up healthy,<br />
fl avoursome salads – to<br />
your specifi cations.<br />
You can create your<br />
own salad from a vast<br />
selection of ingredients<br />
or pick up a pre-made<br />
option – anything from<br />
jerk chicken to virtuous<br />
superfood or smoked<br />
mackerel kedgeree.<br />
Choose from more than<br />
15 diff erent dressings to<br />
complete your lunch. Oh,<br />
and if you aren’t in the<br />
mood for a salad, there’s<br />
a delicious selection<br />
of sushi, soup, and<br />
nutritious wraps too.<br />
UP TO €30 Franco<br />
Manca (4 Market Row,<br />
SW9, tel: 020 7738<br />
3021) This cheap and<br />
cheerful restaurant in<br />
Brixton Market was<br />
considered a bit of a<br />
culinary secret among<br />
south London foodies<br />
until recently, but now<br />
folk from all across the<br />
capital – and beyond<br />
– make their own pizza<br />
pilgrimage to see what<br />
all the fuss is about. This<br />
small pizzeria’s winning<br />
formula is a combination<br />
of a light yet crisp<br />
sourdough base –<br />
prepared 20 hours<br />
before – and the giant,<br />
traditional woodfi red<br />
oven brought in from<br />
download<br />
our iphone e<br />
app to find d<br />
your nearest est st t t t<br />
restaurant nt<br />
positive eating + positive living<br />
kids<br />
welcome!<br />
the home of this doughy<br />
dish, Naples. The menu<br />
might only feature six<br />
types of pizza (starting<br />
at £6 each), but trust<br />
us, you won’t be<br />
disappointed.<br />
UP TO €50 Balans<br />
(60–62 Old Compton<br />
Street, W1D, tel: 020<br />
7439 2183) Right in the<br />
heart of the West End,<br />
on Old Compton Street,<br />
is Balans – a Soho<br />
institution. An excellent<br />
option for a pre- or<br />
post-theatre meal<br />
thanks to its proximity<br />
to Theatreland, its<br />
modern brasseriestyle<br />
menu caters to<br />
all appetites. Dishes<br />
such as seared scallops<br />
with pork belly and<br />
orange sweet soy<br />
glaze is a great place<br />
to start, and satisfying<br />
mains include a<br />
fragrant Thai curry<br />
and the sizable Balans<br />
10oz burger with<br />
hand-cut chips.<br />
For dessert, try the<br />
wickedly decadent<br />
Oreo key lime pie.<br />
NORFOLK<br />
TOWERS<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
Norfolk Towers is an<br />
excellent choice, close<br />
to Madame Tussauds,<br />
Regent’s Park and the<br />
West End. Breakfast<br />
included. From<br />
€78, book at hotels.<br />
easyJet.com.<br />
Bar Battu (48 Gresham<br />
Street, EC2, tel: 020<br />
7036 6100) Tucked<br />
away in a corner street<br />
in the City is this<br />
exceptional French<br />
wine bar-turned-fab<br />
restaurant. But what’s<br />
so exciting about<br />
an establishment<br />
championing vin de<br />
France? Well, Bar Battu<br />
is the Square Mile’s<br />
fi rst natural wine bar,<br />
selling superb organic<br />
and biodiverse wines.<br />
For those of us who<br />
don’t know much about<br />
natural wines, the bar’s<br />
extensive wine list has<br />
a breakdown at the<br />
beginning explaining<br />
the diff erence between<br />
the biodiverse, cloudy,<br />
organic, wild and clear<br />
wines sold by the glass<br />
and bottle. Once you’ve<br />
ordered your wine,<br />
tackle the food menu<br />
with its fi ne French fare.<br />
The crab with celeriac<br />
is the star of the small,<br />
tapas-like plates, and<br />
you can’t go far wrong<br />
with the bavette steak<br />
and bone marrow –<br />
perfectly complemented<br />
with a robust glass of<br />
organic red, of course.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Brasserie Joël (1st<br />
Floor, Park Plaza<br />
Westminster Bridge,<br />
SE1, tel: 020 7620<br />
7272) The Park Plaza<br />
Westminster Bridge<br />
exudes the cool,<br />
anonymous glow of<br />
the international hotel<br />
chain, so it’s a surprise<br />
to fi nd French chef<br />
Joël Antunes running<br />
an excellent brasserie<br />
from its moodily lit<br />
interior. Every dish is<br />
full of fl air, from the<br />
crisp, sweet beetroot<br />
salad to the porcini<br />
risotto that reminds<br />
you what risotto is<br />
supposed to taste like.<br />
Delicious and for<br />
the most part<br />
reasonably priced,<br />
it’s well worth a visit.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Gordon’s<br />
Wine Bar (47 Villiers<br />
Street, WC2N, tel: 020<br />
7930 1408) It might not<br />
look like much from the<br />
outside, but Gordon’s<br />
has plenty of character.<br />
This tatty-but-cool<br />
space dates back to<br />
the 1680s, making it<br />
the city’s oldest wine<br />
bar – and hundreds of<br />
years later, it’s still one<br />
of the best places in<br />
London to enjoy a glass<br />
of wine, sherry or port in<br />
candlelit, subterranean<br />
surroundings.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
The Boogaloo (312<br />
Archway Road, N6, tel:<br />
020 8340 2928) Set in<br />
leafy Highgate, The<br />
Boogaloo is considered<br />
one of north London’s<br />
hippest music hangouts<br />
–Time Out has even<br />
hailed it “London’s<br />
greatest rock club”.<br />
Rumoured fans include<br />
Pete Doherty and Noel<br />
Gallagher, so who<br />
knows, go along and<br />
you might even end<br />
up rubbing shoulders<br />
with rock royalty while<br />
swaying to the live,<br />
heavy beats.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
The Dogstar (389<br />
Coldharbour Lane,<br />
SW9, tel: 020 7733<br />
7515) Situated in
Brand new spacious fast direct frequent<br />
comfortable reliable trains arrive<br />
May <strong>2011</strong> Faster’s getting better<br />
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25-27 George Street<br />
London W1U 3QA<br />
www.skin-oasis.co.uk<br />
bookings@skin-oasis.co.uk<br />
Stansted Airport direct to central London<br />
Fast and fuss free every 15 minutes*<br />
Buy your discounted<br />
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*Early and late trains are every 30 minutes.<br />
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Food from Denmark, Norway &<br />
Sweden delivered across the UK<br />
Visit www.scandikitchen.co.uk<br />
Or pop in to see us:<br />
61 Gt Titchfield St, London W1W 7PP<br />
5 mins walk from Oxford Circus<br />
+44 (0)20 7580 7161|shop@scandikitchen.co.uk<br />
scandi.indd 1 03/02/<strong>2011</strong> 11:07
152 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
London<br />
UK<br />
Brixton, The Dogstar<br />
is an eclectic DJ bar<br />
known for being the<br />
go-to spot for a good<br />
after-party in south<br />
London. Resident DJs<br />
play a mix of hip-hop<br />
and party classics to a<br />
laidback trendy crowd<br />
every night. On Tuesdays<br />
there’s an unusual<br />
comedy night, and Friday<br />
nights start the weekend<br />
in style with a “mashup”<br />
of hits from the 80s and<br />
90s, as well as electro<br />
and indie beats.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Portobello<br />
Market is one of the<br />
most famous street<br />
markets in the world,<br />
and a great place to<br />
while away a Saturday<br />
afternoon, browsing<br />
the antique shops,<br />
tempting food stalls<br />
and off beat boutiques.<br />
Join the queue outside<br />
Hummingbird Bakery<br />
for a famous cupcake<br />
and seek out that<br />
famous blue door at<br />
the Travel Bookshop,<br />
made famous by the<br />
fi lm Notting Hill. Just<br />
remember to try and<br />
arrive early – this<br />
London institution<br />
gets very busy with<br />
bargain-hunting locals<br />
and camera-carrying<br />
visitors alike.<br />
SEE The Birds Eye<br />
View Film Festival,<br />
celebrating the<br />
achievements of female<br />
fi lmmakers, takes<br />
place at the Southbank<br />
Centre and the Institute<br />
of Contemporary Arts<br />
from 8–17 March –<br />
opening on International<br />
Women’s Day. Did you<br />
know that only 6%<br />
of fi lm directors are<br />
women? This festival<br />
aims to raise awareness<br />
of the women who<br />
inspire and challenge us<br />
to think critically about<br />
fi lm. Awards, preview<br />
screenings, speakers<br />
and parties are just<br />
some of the highlights<br />
(birds-eye-view.co.uk).<br />
GO Fancy trying a cool<br />
glass of Pressed Rat and<br />
Warthog? How about<br />
Steaming Billy’s Last<br />
Bark? Then head to the<br />
London Drinker Beer<br />
& Cider Festival at the<br />
Camden Centre in King’s<br />
Cross from 9–11 March,<br />
where you can sample<br />
strange-sounding<br />
beers to your heart’s<br />
content (camranorth<br />
london.org.uk)<br />
ESCAPE It might not<br />
be sunbathing weather<br />
just yet, but that doesn’t<br />
mean you can’t enjoy<br />
a day by the seaside.<br />
Just an hour outside of<br />
London is the bohemian<br />
city of Brighton. Here<br />
you can brave the rickety<br />
rides and stuff your face<br />
full of candy-fl oss at the<br />
pier, wander through the<br />
cobbled North Lanes<br />
– home to many cool<br />
and quirky independent<br />
shops – or enjoy a walk<br />
along the seafront.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Although at just over<br />
1m wide it’s London’s<br />
smallest house, 20<br />
nuns live in the<br />
Tyburn Convent in<br />
Hyde Park Place!<br />
Amy Baker<br />
Luxor<br />
Egypt<br />
DIALLING CODE +20<br />
CURRENCY EGP<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs 50LE<br />
to the East Bank, and<br />
100LE to the West Bank.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Noor el<br />
Gurna (West Bank)<br />
You’ll fi nd this restaurant<br />
opposite the main West<br />
Bank ticket offi ce, behind<br />
the colossus of Memnon.<br />
Simple Egyptian food is<br />
served in an atmospheric<br />
outdoor area – try<br />
the local duck and the<br />
homemade lemonade.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
The Fortune Cookie<br />
(St Joseph Street,<br />
tel: 010 294 8079) A<br />
new addition to the<br />
Luxor dining scene and<br />
serves quality Chinese<br />
cuisine, complemented<br />
by some Thai dishes<br />
and an international<br />
selection. Situated at<br />
the bottom of St Joseph<br />
Street. Open from 12pm<br />
to 11pm every day.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Luxor<br />
Museum (Corniche<br />
el Nile) This excellent<br />
museum is open until<br />
9pm. A guide isn’t<br />
needed as it’s well laid<br />
out and labelled. On<br />
leaving the museum,<br />
there are plenty of cafés<br />
dotted about, where<br />
you can stop for a tea<br />
or coff ee to recharge<br />
your batteries.<br />
LATE & LIVELY The<br />
King’s Head (Sharia<br />
Khalid Ibn Walid) The<br />
perfect late-night<br />
venue with billiards,<br />
satellite TV, pub food,<br />
beer and cocktails. It<br />
closes when you leave.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Arkwright’s<br />
Supermarket is a<br />
general food store with<br />
a diff erence. Rye bread,<br />
sugar-free cereals,<br />
pâté, fresh sandwiches,<br />
quiche and cakes<br />
will make sure your<br />
cupboards and picnic<br />
baskets are never bare<br />
(St Joseph Street,<br />
tel: 095 228 2335).<br />
GO There are some<br />
great walks high in<br />
the hills, just a little<br />
out of town. Go up by<br />
the workman’s village<br />
at Deir el Medina and<br />
down by the temple of<br />
Queen Hatshepsut<br />
at Deir el Bahri and<br />
get some great<br />
panoramic views.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
March is the start of the<br />
Khamsin, the 50-day<br />
period when the wind<br />
picks up suddenly –<br />
with temperature<br />
changes of 20°C and<br />
winds of up to 140km an<br />
hour – and disappears<br />
just as quickly.<br />
Jane Akshar<br />
Lyon<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Agadir, Barcelona,<br />
Berlin, Biarritz, Bordeaux,<br />
Brest, Bristol, Brussels,<br />
Casablanca, Corsica<br />
(Bastia), Edinburgh,<br />
Ibiza, Lisbon, Liverpool,<br />
London (LGW, STN),<br />
Madrid, Marrakech,<br />
Milan (MXP), Nantes,<br />
Nice, Olbia, Porto,<br />
Prague, Rome (CIA),<br />
Toulouse, Venice<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €55.<br />
The Rhônexpress<br />
Tram links the<br />
airport and Lyon Part<br />
UP TO €50<br />
Brasserie Georges<br />
1836 (30 Cours de<br />
Verdun, tel: 04 7256<br />
5454) Georges is an<br />
historic brasserie<br />
serving choucroute<br />
and other traditional<br />
favourites. A convivial<br />
canteen with class.<br />
Dieu train station in<br />
less than 30 minutes.<br />
Tickets: €13. Allow ten<br />
minutes from terminal 3.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Zone<br />
Verte (24 Quai St<br />
Antoine, tel: 04 7838<br />
1518) You can enjoy<br />
seasonal produce in the<br />
zen surroundings or on<br />
the go, and everything<br />
from the butter on the<br />
bread to the smoothie<br />
ingredients has been<br />
carefully selected<br />
to earn its organic<br />
certifi cation.<br />
UP TO €30 Le Pearl<br />
(1 bis Quai du Commerce,<br />
tel: 04 7843 2685)<br />
Enjoy panaoramic views<br />
over the Saône river on<br />
this très chic riverboat<br />
stationed in the up-andcoming<br />
ninth district.<br />
It’s semi-gastronomic –<br />
meaning fi ne without<br />
the frills – and off ers<br />
diners the chance to<br />
dance it off afterwards.<br />
EXCLUSIVE La Table<br />
de Suzanne (37 Rue<br />
Auguste Comte, tel: 04<br />
7837 4983) Seasonal<br />
and luxury produce,<br />
including delicious foie<br />
gras, is used creatively<br />
here, and served in<br />
pleasant surroundings.<br />
A venue to celebrate<br />
something special.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
L’Antiquaire (20 Rue<br />
Hippolyte-Flandrin, tel:<br />
06 3421 5465) Be sure<br />
to reserve your table<br />
in advance at this bar<br />
inspired by American
Shaping the Future<br />
of Infrastructure<br />
& Investment<br />
Come along and hear about the<br />
exciting plans for Luton<br />
Guest presentations will include:<br />
■ the Public Private Partnership<br />
with Wates Construction<br />
■ Novel Infrastructure funding for<br />
the future - TIF bid with CBRE<br />
Presentations will be held on<br />
Tuesday at 4:15pm,<br />
Wednesday at 10:15am and<br />
Thursday at 10am.<br />
Come and visit us at our stand in<br />
the Riviera Hall - R27.18<br />
For more information or to<br />
arrange an appointment<br />
please call +44(0) 1582 546265
154 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Lyon<br />
France<br />
speakeasies. The<br />
1930s-style bartenders<br />
serve classic and<br />
contemporary pre- or<br />
post-dinner drinks in<br />
the calm and classic<br />
surroundings, with<br />
cosy armchairs.<br />
LIVE MUSIC Johnny<br />
Walsh’s (56 Rue Saint<br />
Georges, tel: 04 7865<br />
5236) You can expect<br />
a friendly Irish welcome<br />
with live music from<br />
Thursday to Sunday. The<br />
neighbouring Johnny’s<br />
Kitchen is a great pitstop<br />
for sustenance.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Q Boat (17 Quai<br />
Augagneur, tel: 04<br />
7284 9898) Cocktails<br />
to suit all tastes get<br />
the trendsetters<br />
fl ocking to this plush<br />
riverboat where the<br />
ambient sounds go on<br />
till morning.<br />
Peniche La Marquise<br />
(20 Quai Augagneur, tel:<br />
04 7261 9292) A young<br />
and trendy crowd board<br />
this riverboat bar and<br />
club to enjoy the sounds<br />
of salsa, house, jungle<br />
and breakbeat until the<br />
early hours.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Stock up<br />
on one-off Italian<br />
designer gadgets<br />
at Lago-Store,<br />
which combines<br />
contemporary art<br />
and lifestyle (70 Rue<br />
Auguste-Comte).<br />
If vintage is your thing,<br />
head to Coco Picos for<br />
unusual clothing<br />
and accessories (7<br />
Rue Austerlitz).<br />
SEE From 18–28 March,<br />
visitors will descend<br />
in their thousands on<br />
Eurexpo for the 93rd<br />
Foire Internationale<br />
de Lyon. More than<br />
1,200 exhibitors in the<br />
home, environment,<br />
leisure, wellbeing and<br />
travel sectors make this<br />
reputable fair a fest of<br />
information and intrigue<br />
(foiredelyon.com).<br />
GO The romanesque<br />
basilica of St-Martind’Ainay<br />
was constructed<br />
towards the end of<br />
the 10th century and<br />
consecrated by Pope<br />
Pascal II in 1107. The<br />
quarter is home to<br />
buildings dating back to<br />
the Bourbon restoration,<br />
and in the neighbouring<br />
side streets a deluge<br />
of antiques and<br />
galleries can be found.<br />
ESCAPE Spring is<br />
the best time to explore<br />
the Camargue, with its<br />
wetlands that are home<br />
to Europe’s largest<br />
population of fl amingos,<br />
black bulls and famous<br />
horses. It can be visited<br />
on bike, horse or by boat,<br />
all of which can be hired<br />
in nearby Aigues Mortes.<br />
Neighbouring Arles,<br />
with its Roman<br />
amphitheatre, is worth a<br />
20-minute detour. TGV<br />
trains leave Lyon for Arles<br />
or Avignon regularly<br />
(sncf-voyages.com).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
In addition to Lyon’s very<br />
successful pick-up and<br />
drop-off Vélo’v bicycle<br />
system, rumour has it a<br />
water-taxi initiative, using<br />
the Saône and Rhône<br />
rivers, is on the cards.<br />
John Brown<br />
Madeira<br />
Portugal<br />
DIALLING CODE +351<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Bristol, Lisbon,<br />
London (LGW, STN)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €30.<br />
The Aerobus goes<br />
to the main hotel<br />
area, with 12 services<br />
daily. Tickets: €5.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Riso (274<br />
Rua de Santa Maria,<br />
Funchal, tel: 291 280<br />
360) An innovative<br />
array of rice dishes<br />
from around the world<br />
(even the desserts are<br />
rice-based) are served<br />
in this classy restaurant<br />
overlooking one of<br />
Funchal’s best bathing<br />
areas, the Barreirinha<br />
Lido. The coriander rice<br />
with prawns and fi sh is<br />
hard to beat.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Casa<br />
Velha do Palheiro (23<br />
Rua de Estalagem, tel:<br />
291 790 350) The dining<br />
room’s haute cuisine<br />
menu showcases all<br />
the delights of Madeira,<br />
spiced with hints of the<br />
Orient. In addition to the<br />
à la carte menu<br />
guests also have<br />
a choice of a sevencourse<br />
tasting menu<br />
with accompanying<br />
Portuguese wines.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Cervejaria<br />
Beerhouse (Pontão de<br />
São Lázaro, tel: 291 229<br />
011) In a great position<br />
above the marina, this<br />
lively bar and restaurant<br />
serves its own unfi ltered<br />
beers – a great place to<br />
catch Funchal’s lights<br />
after dark.<br />
LATE & LIVELY Jam<br />
(60 Avenida Sá Carneiro,<br />
Funchal, tel: 291 234<br />
800) Located by the<br />
docks, this is a late-night<br />
dance haven for those<br />
into 1980s sounds.<br />
There are DJ nights and<br />
occasionally jazz too.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP You can buy<br />
orchid plants – or<br />
baby orchids to grow<br />
yourself in glass jars<br />
– from the Jardim<br />
Orquídea (37 Rua<br />
Pita da Silva).<br />
SEE Madeira’s<br />
Carnival (4–8 March)<br />
is Funchal’s big event<br />
of the year, with four<br />
days of riotous partying,<br />
fancy dress, live music<br />
and a parade that even<br />
Rio would tip its hat to.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Funchal’s Carnival<br />
traditionally kicks off<br />
with Transvestite Night,<br />
when normally macho<br />
men hit the town in<br />
their sister’s or mother’s<br />
clothes. Expect to see<br />
guys in glittery dresses.<br />
Matthew Hancock<br />
LA CONCEPCION<br />
Madrid<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Amsterdam,<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Berlin, Bordeaux,<br />
Bristol, Bucharest,<br />
Casablanca, Edinburgh,<br />
Fuerteventura, Geneva,<br />
Ibiza, Lanzarote, Lisbon,<br />
Liverpool, London (LGW,<br />
LTN), Lyon, Marrakech,<br />
Menorca, Milan (MXP),<br />
Naples, Paris (CDG),<br />
Rome (CIA), Sofi a,<br />
Tangier, Toulouse, Venice<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €30.<br />
Number 200<br />
connects to<br />
Avenida de America<br />
Metro and bus station.<br />
Airport Express goes<br />
to Atocha Train Station.<br />
Tickets: €2<br />
Metro line 8<br />
connects to many<br />
other lines and suburban<br />
trains. Tickets €2<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Lateral<br />
(12 Plaza Santa Ana,<br />
tel: 914 201 582) This<br />
very cool restaurant<br />
serves Spanish tapas<br />
with a twist. Try tiny<br />
While in Malaga visit the only tropical outdoor botanic garden in Europe.<br />
Historical and Botanic Gardens “La Concepcion”<br />
Closed on Monday, other amenities include: Coffee Shop/ Restaurant, Museum, Gift Shop<br />
Tel: +34 952252148 | www.laconcepcion.malaga.eu<br />
steaks with blue cheese<br />
sauce, tempura prawns<br />
or stuff ed red peppers.<br />
The interior boasts<br />
warm, intimate lighting<br />
and quick service.<br />
UP TO €30 La Cesta<br />
(10 Calle Recoletos, tel:<br />
911 400 696) Already<br />
a fi rm favourite with<br />
the in-crowd, the menu<br />
at this new restaurant<br />
is the creation of<br />
Michelin-starred chef<br />
Oscar Velasco. Guests<br />
are encouraged to share<br />
various dishes over<br />
large glasses of wine.<br />
Highlights are tomato<br />
soup with mushrooms,<br />
king prawns with<br />
aubergine or cuttlefi sh.<br />
UP TO €50<br />
Le Dragon (2 Calle de<br />
Gil de Santivañés, tel: 914<br />
356 668) This is one of<br />
Madrid’s most charming<br />
Asian restaurants. The<br />
interior is dressed in<br />
stunning black and red,<br />
while the menu features<br />
many spicy Szechuan<br />
dishes, any of which will<br />
leave your tastebuds<br />
tingling with pleasure.<br />
ZENIT<br />
ABEBA<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
The ultra-stylish Zenit<br />
lies in Salamanca<br />
district, perfectly<br />
placed for Madrid’s<br />
fi nest shopping.<br />
Breakfast included.<br />
From €89, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Santceloni (57 Paseo<br />
de la Castellana, tel:<br />
912 108 840) Boasting<br />
two Michelin stars,<br />
Santceloni off ers<br />
décor as refi ned as<br />
its menu. Glassed-in<br />
garden atriums and<br />
exquisite Spanish<br />
cuisine make for a<br />
sublime experience.<br />
Chef Velásco off ers an<br />
exquisite menu which<br />
includes oysters.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Cervecería<br />
Alemana (6 Plaza Santa<br />
Ana, tel: 914 297 033)<br />
Cervecería Alemana<br />
specialises in frothy<br />
beers, to be enjoyed in<br />
the company of locals.<br />
One of Hemingway’s old<br />
haunts, this institution<br />
boasts a few regulars<br />
old enough to have<br />
met the man himself.<br />
LIVE MUSIC Café<br />
Central (10 Plaza del<br />
Angel, tel: 913 694 143)<br />
Move to the groove of<br />
live jazz while you enjoy<br />
a glass of La Rioja wine.<br />
The varied programme<br />
includes both local and<br />
international talent.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Larios Café (4 Calle<br />
Silva, tel: 915 479 394)<br />
This restaurant and<br />
bar, which has its own<br />
dancefl oor, is open<br />
till 3am Thursday<br />
to Saturday nights,<br />
attracting hip, goodlooking<br />
people.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Treat yourself to<br />
some new threads from<br />
along the buzzy Gran<br />
Vía. Wander into the<br />
small streets branching<br />
off from either side to<br />
discover shops boasting<br />
work by up-and-coming<br />
Spanish designers<br />
such as Carlos Diez Diez<br />
(4 Loreto y Chicote).<br />
Don’t miss the new<br />
megastore by trendy<br />
Spanish label Desigual<br />
(Plaza Callao).<br />
SEE March is an<br />
exciting month at<br />
Teatro Real. Choose<br />
from a new production<br />
of the 19th-century<br />
opera Werther by Jules<br />
Massenet, which stars<br />
José Bros, The Firebird<br />
Suite by Stravinski or<br />
a concert by soprano<br />
Deborah Polaski<br />
(teatro-real.com).<br />
GO Take a stroll<br />
around some of<br />
Madrid’s oldest streets<br />
in Barrio de los Austrias.<br />
Start at Plaza San<br />
Andrés and wind your<br />
way through Plaza de<br />
la Paja to Calle Segovia.<br />
Sundays are busy with<br />
locals enjoying a beer<br />
in the sun.<br />
ESCAPE History<br />
and fi ne food await in<br />
Segovia. Catch the bus<br />
from Principe Pio and<br />
in 50 minutes you’re<br />
there. Marvel at the<br />
2,000-year-old Roman<br />
aqueduct and the<br />
gothic cathedral before<br />
lunching on roast pork.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Madrid’s picturesque<br />
Plaza Mayor, was,<br />
during the 17th and 18th<br />
centuries, the scene of<br />
bloody bullfi ghts and<br />
the gruesome burning<br />
of religious heretics<br />
at the stake by the<br />
Spanish Inquisition.<br />
Scott Adams<br />
Majorca<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Belfast (BFS),<br />
Berlin, Bristol, Dortmund,<br />
Edinburgh, Geneva,<br />
Glasgow, Liverpool,<br />
London (LGW, LTN,<br />
STN), Manchester, Milan<br />
(MXP), Newcastle, Paris<br />
(CDG), Rome (FCO)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
Route 1 goes to<br />
central Palma.<br />
Tickets: €2. For Arenal<br />
take the number 21 bus.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 The<br />
Italian Square (37<br />
Carrettera Andratx,<br />
Portals Nous, tel: 971<br />
684 008) The menu<br />
of the day consists of<br />
freshly made Italian<br />
cuisine all served as<br />
a help-yourself buff et.<br />
Remember to go with<br />
an empty stomach –<br />
you can go back for<br />
seconds! Also serving<br />
pastas, pizzas and<br />
sauces, this Italian<br />
restaurant sets the<br />
standard for reasonably<br />
priced, tasty food.<br />
UP TO €30 Rotana<br />
(58 Calle Sant Magi,<br />
Palma, tel: 971 286 078)<br />
In the heart of Santa<br />
Catalina, you’ll discover<br />
the best authentic<br />
Lebanese cuisine on this<br />
restaurant’s extensive<br />
menu of vegetarian and<br />
meat dishes, all served<br />
in traditional Middle<br />
Eastern style décor.<br />
UP TO €50<br />
Il Paradiso (243 Joan<br />
Miró, tel: 971 103 379)<br />
This Italian restaurant<br />
is unique in style. The<br />
main dining room<br />
boasts fl oor-to-ceiling<br />
windows, from which<br />
you can view Cala<br />
Major bay, or you<br />
can dine alfresco on<br />
the spacious terrace.<br />
Samples from the menu<br />
include penne paridiso<br />
served with sautéed<br />
beef strips, green<br />
pea, marsala wine,<br />
mushrooms, fresh basil<br />
and Parmesan. The<br />
mouthwatering dishes<br />
are all served with a<br />
smile, making this a<br />
truly brilliant dining<br />
experience.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Zaranda<br />
Sa Torre (Hilton Sa<br />
Torre Hotel, 87 Cami de<br />
Sa Torre, Llucmajor, tel:<br />
971 963 700) Indulge<br />
at this Michelin-starred<br />
restaurant and savour<br />
the Mediterranean and<br />
international cuisine<br />
among modern and<br />
stylish surroundings. It<br />
also boasts an exquisite<br />
wine cellar off ering<br />
more than 170 varieties,<br />
which are among the<br />
best wines on the island.<br />
This restaurant is a real<br />
delight and booking is<br />
an absolute must.<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 155<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Hogan’s<br />
(2 Monseñor Palmer,<br />
Palma) This may be<br />
an Irish bar, but it’s<br />
massively popular with<br />
the Spanish as well<br />
as being the favourite<br />
watering hole of visiting<br />
yacht crews. A great<br />
place to start or even<br />
fi nish your night out.<br />
LIVE MUSIC El<br />
Garito Cafe (Dàrsena<br />
de Can Barbarà) This<br />
has been one of Palma’s<br />
best nightspots for<br />
more than a decade,<br />
hosting DJs and live<br />
music from Thursday to<br />
Sunday in cool, chilledout<br />
surroundings.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Menta (Avenida Tucán,<br />
Port d’Alcúdia, tel:<br />
971 891 972) If you’re<br />
staying in the north or<br />
fancy a trip out of town,<br />
this well-known club<br />
compares well with<br />
Palma’s loudest and<br />
proudest. You’ll fi nd DJs,<br />
seven bars, laser lights,<br />
a swimming pool and<br />
fabulous parties.<br />
UR PALACIO<br />
AVENIDA<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
Housed in a famous<br />
cinema dating back<br />
to 1942, this uniquely<br />
renovated hotel will<br />
leave you feeling like<br />
a star yourself.<br />
From €79, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
Your lifestyle store in Palma!<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP If you’re a lover<br />
of anything chocolate,<br />
Cacao Sampaka is<br />
the place to go. The<br />
shop is dedicated<br />
to cocoa nuts and<br />
stocks everything<br />
from chocolates to<br />
jams, sauces to ice<br />
cream. Just the smell<br />
of the shop will get your<br />
tastebuds fl owing –<br />
and you won’t leave<br />
empty-handed. A<br />
real slice of heaven<br />
(1 Plaza Marques<br />
de Palmer, Palma,<br />
tel: 971 714 309).<br />
SEE For all automobile<br />
enthusiasts, a classic<br />
car rally takes place<br />
this month. Starting<br />
from Paseo Marítimo,<br />
vintage vehicles<br />
race along a 600km<br />
route that includes a<br />
scenic coastal section<br />
(rallyislamallorca.com).<br />
GO Plaza Mayor in<br />
the heart of the city<br />
is the perfect place<br />
to sit, chill and watch<br />
the world go by. With<br />
street entertainers<br />
and market stalls,<br />
there’s plenty to<br />
keep you occupied.<br />
ESCAPE Head to<br />
the north west of the<br />
island and visit Lluc<br />
monastery, high in the<br />
Tramuntana mountains,<br />
which is home to<br />
an iconic statue<br />
of the Virgin Mary.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Majorca’s oldest<br />
human remains date<br />
back to 5,000BC and<br />
were discovered at<br />
Valldemosa on the site<br />
of Son Matge.<br />
David Anderson<br />
RIALTO LIVING, C/ SANT FELIU 3 C, PALMA DE MALLORCA. TEL 971 71 33 31. WWW.RIALTOLIVING.COM<br />
COME AND SEE US, WE ARE OPEN MONDAY – SATURDAY 10.00 – 20.30
156 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Málaga<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Belfast (BFS), Berlin,<br />
Bristol, Geneva, Glasgow,<br />
Liverpool, London (LGW,<br />
LTN, STN), Manchester,<br />
Milan (MXP), Newcastle,<br />
Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €15.<br />
Buses go to<br />
Málaga, with links<br />
to all the coastal resorts.<br />
Tickets: €1.20.<br />
There is a train<br />
linking the airport<br />
with Málaga and the<br />
Costa del Sol resorts.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15<br />
Chiringuito La Jabega<br />
(Playa el Saltillo,<br />
Torremolinos, tel: 952<br />
284 765) Located just<br />
before Benalmádena<br />
Port on the Carihuela<br />
seafront, this is one<br />
of the best beachside<br />
restaurants for seafood,<br />
including barbecued<br />
sardines. Non-fi sh<br />
lovers can opt for a slice<br />
of arguably the best<br />
tortilla on the Costa.<br />
UP TO €30 El Mirlo<br />
Blanco (13 Calle<br />
Cuesta de la Villa, Mijas,<br />
tel: 952 485 700) This<br />
long-standing popular<br />
restaurant specialises<br />
in Basque dishes<br />
such as kokotxas de<br />
bacalau (cod cheeks)<br />
and txanguroo (spider<br />
crab) and is located in<br />
the centre of the village<br />
overlooking a pretty<br />
plaza. Top off your<br />
meal with a Grand<br />
Marnier souffl é.<br />
UP TO €50 Skina (12<br />
Calle Aduar, Marbella,<br />
tel: 952 765 277) In the<br />
cobbled heart of the<br />
Old Town, this charming<br />
restaurant prides itself<br />
on a truly innovative<br />
menu. Push the boat<br />
out with a fi sh dish<br />
such as grilled sole with<br />
fresh lime and ginger, or<br />
tempura with Iberican<br />
pork and onions.<br />
Intimate and stylish<br />
with moody lighting,<br />
this is a top choice for<br />
a romantic dinner.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Tragabuches (1 Calle<br />
José Aparacio, Ronda,<br />
tel: 952 190 291) This<br />
celebrated Michelinstarred<br />
restaurant<br />
serves innovative and<br />
well-crafted dishes<br />
such as ajo blanco<br />
(white garlic soup)<br />
with pistachios, foie<br />
gras with goat’s cheese<br />
or a choice of several<br />
game dishes, including<br />
loin of deer. There is<br />
a superb choice of<br />
quality wines too.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY The Forum<br />
(14 Palangreros,<br />
Fuengirola) A relaxing<br />
bar in which to kick off<br />
a night out, the Forum<br />
is top choice for longtime<br />
expats, with<br />
weekly quiz nights,<br />
superb light snacks<br />
and an easy-going<br />
congenial atmosphere.<br />
LIVE MUSIC Taberna<br />
Flamenca Pepe López<br />
(Plaza de la Gamba<br />
Alegre, Torremolinos,<br />
tel: 952 381 284) Catch<br />
impromptu fl amenco<br />
at this taverna, with<br />
plenty of castanetclicking,<br />
swirling skirts<br />
and fi esta spirit.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Sinatra (2 Calle de la<br />
Ribera, Puerto Banús,<br />
tel: 952 819 050) The<br />
frontline for ogling<br />
the gin-palace crowd,<br />
this place has been<br />
around for decades<br />
and attracts plenty of<br />
colourful old-timers, as<br />
well as the occasional<br />
cocktail-quaffi ng celeb.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Colourful<br />
ceramics, locally woven<br />
rugs and exhibitions<br />
by local artists can be<br />
enjoyed on the fi rst<br />
Sunday of the month<br />
at the Ronda Feria<br />
ground. Alternatively,<br />
the normal Sunday<br />
market also has plenty<br />
of tempting items for<br />
sale, providing just<br />
one more reason for<br />
visiting this stunning<br />
mountain-top town.<br />
SEE Enjoy a soiree at<br />
Málaga’s wonderful<br />
art deco theatre,<br />
Teatro Cervantes, with<br />
productions this month<br />
including the famous<br />
one-act opera La Voix<br />
Humaine (The Human<br />
<br />
Voice) with words by<br />
Jean Cocteau and<br />
starring the esteemed<br />
Corsican soprano<br />
Michelle Canniccioni.<br />
From 11–13 March<br />
(teatrocervantes.com).<br />
GO Seville is the<br />
epitome of an<br />
Andalusian city, with its<br />
heady Moor-inspired<br />
architecture, fabulous<br />
fl amenco, superb tapas<br />
bars, sophisticated<br />
shopping and overall<br />
vibrancy. There are<br />
plenty of museums<br />
and sights here as<br />
well, including one of<br />
the most beautiful<br />
city parks and one<br />
of the world’s largest<br />
cathedrals. It’s an<br />
easy two-hour drive to<br />
Seville or you can hop<br />
on the train at Málaga.<br />
ESCAPE In the heart<br />
of the Axarquia, the<br />
pretty, whitewashed<br />
village of Cómpeta is<br />
home to some of the<br />
area’s best local wines.<br />
Ask for a taste at<br />
Museo del Vino<br />
(Avenida de la<br />
Constitución) in the<br />
centre of town, which<br />
also has an extensive<br />
display of Moroccan<br />
and local arts and<br />
crafts for sale, as well<br />
as honey, olive oil and<br />
other gourmet treats.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
If you happen to<br />
be enjoying tapas<br />
presented with<br />
a toothpick, don’t<br />
discard it – they’re<br />
often used to calculate<br />
your bill (especially in<br />
bars that specialise in<br />
Basque-style pintxos).<br />
Josephine Quintero<br />
Malta<br />
Malta<br />
DIALLING CODE +356<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Belfast, Liverpool,<br />
London (LGW),<br />
Manchester, Newcastle,<br />
Milan (MXP), Rome (FCO)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €16.<br />
No. 8 services<br />
Valletta and the<br />
main bus station.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Grotto<br />
Tavern (9–12 Parish<br />
Square, Rabat) Inspired<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Luna Lounge (Palazzo<br />
Parisio, Naxxar, tel:<br />
21 412 461) Part of<br />
the exclusive Luna<br />
Collection within this<br />
magnifi cent palazzo,<br />
this is a haven of<br />
plush surroundings<br />
and cocktails.<br />
by Maltese and French<br />
culinary delights, this<br />
tavern off ers delicious<br />
food and wine, including<br />
the DIY raclette of meats,<br />
chicken and cheeses.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Palazzo<br />
Santa Rosa (Mistra<br />
Bay, Xemxija, St Pawl<br />
il-Bahar, tel: 21 582 737)<br />
Using organic vegetables<br />
grown in the Palazzo’s<br />
own garden, chef<br />
Claude Camilleri creates<br />
a slow-food feast for<br />
loyal patrons.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Havana (St George’s<br />
Road) The home of<br />
R’n’B, hip hop and great<br />
old-school classics in<br />
Malta. Prepare to<br />
party until the early<br />
morning, surrounded<br />
by smooth sounds.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP The desire for<br />
vintage clothing is taking<br />
off locally, and the team<br />
behind Blush & Panic is<br />
leading the way. Pop in<br />
for an original selection<br />
of clothes (Melita<br />
Street, Valletta).<br />
GO The carnival (4–8<br />
March) is one of the<br />
best-loved events of<br />
Malta’s cultural calendar.<br />
Locals take to the streets<br />
in bright costumes to<br />
watch the colourful<br />
parade pass through<br />
Floriana, Valletta and<br />
Victoria (Gozo).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
In Nadur the carnival is<br />
celebrated in a distinct<br />
manner with a rowdy<br />
festival of grotesque<br />
masks and wild antics.<br />
Jo Caruana
SAN ROQUE GOLF RESORT<br />
Costa del Sol - Spain<br />
4**** DELUXE RESORT<br />
Situated directly at the San Roque Golf Club<br />
Golf, Pool/Jacuzzi, Horse Riding, Bars<br />
Restaurants, Commercial Centre<br />
Weddings & Events<br />
FIFA football Pitch<br />
First Golf Tournament 16th of April<br />
Better Ball - Inscription Fee + Lunch 75 €<br />
Room + Breakfast Package: 75 €<br />
CN 340 - KM 127 San Roque -Tel: (+34)956 613 230<br />
www.sanroque-golfresort.com<br />
TIMELESS, LAID-BACK AND INTERNATIONAL – THE DESIGN HOTEL IN THE CITY CENTRE<br />
FROM COMPACT TO SUPER-SPACIOUS – 285 ROOMS AND SUITES, ELEGANT AND MODERN<br />
FROM CONFERENCE MEETINGS TO BANQUETS – ROOMS AVAILABLE FROM 40 TO 640 M 2<br />
WITH CUTTING-EDGE FACILITIES LUNCH OR DINNER BE DAZZLED BY THE CULINARY CREATIONS<br />
FROM OUR STUNNING SHOW KITCHEN AN OASIS OF CALM – THE »DUKE« RESTAURANT,<br />
SUMMER GARDEN, COCKTAIL BAR AND LOUNGE STYLISH AND RIGHT IN THE HEART OF BERLIN<br />
ELLINGTON HOTEL BERLIN | NÜRNBERGER STR. 50 - 55 | 10789 BERLIN | PHONE +49 (30) 68 31-50 | WWW.ELLINGTON-HOTEL.COM
158 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Manchester<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Alicante,<br />
Amsterdam, Athens,<br />
Copenhagen, Corfu,<br />
Corsica (Bastia), Crete<br />
(Heraklion), Cyprus<br />
(Paphos), Dalaman,<br />
Geneva, Gothenburg,<br />
Hamburg, Helsinki,<br />
Majorca, Málaga, Malta,<br />
Marrakech, Menorca,<br />
Munich, Sharm El Sheikh,<br />
Sofi a, Tenerife, Zürich<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £20.<br />
Trains depart for<br />
the city centre<br />
every 10 minutes.<br />
Tickets: £5.40 single.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Archies<br />
(72 Oxford Street,<br />
tel: 0161 237 1736)<br />
Decked in neon lights<br />
and sweets, few places<br />
beat Archies milk<br />
bar on Oxford Road<br />
for a sugar fi x. Chat<br />
to the locals over a<br />
chilli burger, and then<br />
tuck into waffl es and<br />
ice cream for dessert.<br />
UP TO €30 Phet<br />
Pailin (46 George<br />
Street, China Town,<br />
tel: 0161 228 6500)<br />
This Thai restaurant<br />
specialises in hot<br />
curries and salads.<br />
Just off the beaten<br />
track, its jungle-style<br />
décor and bring-yourown<br />
policy make good<br />
times mandatory.<br />
UP TO €50 El Rincon<br />
(244 Deansgate, tel:<br />
0161 839 8819) Like<br />
a gem, this Spanish<br />
restaurant is hard to<br />
fi nd but worth the<br />
hunt, and it serves<br />
up atmosphere and<br />
authentic tapas<br />
galore in cellar-like<br />
surrounds. Opt for<br />
one of several bottles<br />
of Albarino or Rioja,<br />
while the 30-plus<br />
small plates, including<br />
Galican octopus<br />
and charred grilled<br />
peppers, are just<br />
perfect for sharing.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY The<br />
Gaslamp (50A<br />
Bridge Street) In<br />
the tiled cellar of<br />
a Victorian property,<br />
the original fi ttings<br />
are complemented<br />
by an extraordinary<br />
selection of<br />
international ales and<br />
wines. Rightly popular<br />
with the cool crowd.<br />
LIVE MUSIC Night<br />
& Day Café (26<br />
Oldham Street, tel:<br />
0161 236 4597) This<br />
central bar plays host<br />
to up-and-coming<br />
bands with an indie<br />
bent. Recent guests<br />
at this Mancunian<br />
institution include<br />
Yuck and Everything<br />
Everything, while<br />
regulars at the<br />
wood-lined bar include<br />
members of Elbow.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Matt & Phreds (64<br />
Tib Street, tel: 0161<br />
831 7002) Oozing<br />
a gloriously seedy<br />
charm, this late-night<br />
jazz club has hosted<br />
guests such as soul<br />
diva Liane Carroll and<br />
Cinematic Orchestra’s<br />
Stuart McCallum.<br />
With a drink in hand,<br />
a spot on the<br />
dancefl oor is all<br />
that’s required for<br />
a night to remember.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Nearly 30<br />
years old, Affl ecks<br />
shopping emporium<br />
has held on to its<br />
punk spirit, with<br />
more than 100 small<br />
independent retailers<br />
spread over four<br />
fl oors touting tattoos,<br />
graphic art, jewellery,<br />
hats and vintage<br />
goods. Visit Thunder<br />
Egg for gifts inspired<br />
by Japan, and<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
RESTAURANT<br />
Michael Caines @<br />
Abode (107 Piccadilly,<br />
tel: 0161 200 5678)<br />
Opt for the à la carte<br />
menu, under the<br />
auspices of Michelinstarred<br />
chef Caines.<br />
The entree of wild duck<br />
with blackberries is fab.<br />
Rubber Planation<br />
(52 Church Street,<br />
Northern Quarter).<br />
SEE Maverick artist<br />
Mary Kelly is the subject<br />
of a retrospective at<br />
Whitworth Art Gallery.<br />
Spread through the<br />
airy halls, the work on<br />
display includes Post-<br />
Partum Document,<br />
an intimate record<br />
of her son’s early life.<br />
There’s also the UK’s<br />
fi nest regional textile<br />
collection and<br />
an award-winning<br />
café to check out too<br />
(Oxford Road).<br />
GO Check out West<br />
Didsbury where<br />
bars, delicatessens,<br />
vintage stores and<br />
cafés abound. Folk<br />
and Silver Apples are<br />
ideal for refreshments,<br />
while the fern-fringed<br />
botanical gardens at<br />
Fletcher Moss Park are<br />
worth the trip alone.<br />
ESCAPE Rivington<br />
Pike’s haunting<br />
terraced gardens<br />
lie around 40<br />
minutes’ drive from<br />
Manchester. Forest<br />
paths and foliage are<br />
interspersed with the<br />
crumbling remains of<br />
follies built by<br />
the Lever family<br />
at the turn of the<br />
20th century, and<br />
there’s a great view<br />
from the top of the<br />
Pike (bolton.org.uk).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Manchester has<br />
been a tourist<br />
destination since 1804,<br />
when the fi rst guide<br />
book was written by<br />
Joseph Aston.<br />
Ruth Allan<br />
Marrakech<br />
Morocco<br />
DIALLING CODE +212<br />
CURRENCY MAD<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Geneva, London (LGW),<br />
Lyon, Madrid, Manchester,<br />
Milan (MXP), Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs MAD60.<br />
The hourly L19<br />
bus goes to the<br />
Jemaa el Fna. Tickets:<br />
MAD20 single.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Café du<br />
Livre (44 Rue Tarik<br />
Ben Ziad, Gueliz,<br />
tel: 0524 432 149)<br />
A quirky café-bookshop.<br />
Drop in for fresh,<br />
delicious homemade<br />
cakes and afternoon tea<br />
or a light lunch.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Riad<br />
Lotus Privilege (9 Derb<br />
Sidi Ali Ben Hamdouche,<br />
tel: 0524 387 318) An<br />
excellent choice for<br />
an utterly romantic<br />
evening, the Riad Lotus<br />
Privilege restaurant<br />
is great for gourmets.<br />
Off ering only a sevencourse<br />
tasting menu, go<br />
with a healthy appetite<br />
and a large wallet.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Montecristo (20 Rue<br />
Ibn Aicha, tel: 0524<br />
439 031) Bypass the<br />
restaurant and Cubanthemed<br />
central fl oor<br />
and head straight for the<br />
candlelit roof terrace.<br />
Go before midnight for<br />
a mellow drink, before it<br />
gets too busy with the<br />
restaurant’s clientèle.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Theatro (Hotel Es Saadi,<br />
Avenue El Quadissia)<br />
This refurbished, former<br />
theatre is a great sight<br />
to see and place to be<br />
seen. The venue has<br />
an exciting, hedonistic<br />
atmosphere with people<br />
lounging around on beds<br />
and couches.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Scènes de Lin<br />
is a striking, low-lit store<br />
run by French textile<br />
expert Anna-Marie<br />
Chaoui. A showroom for<br />
her collection of natural<br />
fabrics, the place also<br />
sells tablecloths, kaftans,<br />
bedspreads and candles<br />
(70 Rue de la Liberté).<br />
GO Ateliers d’Ailleurs<br />
runs courses on<br />
everything from zellije<br />
mosaics and pottery to<br />
cooking, wood painting,<br />
leather production and<br />
embroidery, all taught<br />
in traditional workshops<br />
by local artisans<br />
(ateliersdailleurs.fr).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Marrakech denizens<br />
have included French<br />
fashion designers Yves<br />
Saint-Laurent and<br />
Jean-Paul Gaultier.<br />
Eleanor Rosamund<br />
Barraclough/Hg2.com<br />
DISCOVER THE AUTHENTIC BERBER MOROCCO<br />
DAY EXCURSIONS - OVERNIGHT STAYS - TREKKING IN STYLE - SPECIAL EVENTS - COMMUNITY WORK<br />
British operator in Morocco since 1978 and developers of KASBAH DU TOUBKAL. 60 km from Marrakech.<br />
“The best roof top views in North Africa” - Conde Nast Traveller<br />
T. +212 524485611 • E. kasbah@mountain-voyage.com • www.kasbahdutoubkal.com
160 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Marseille<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Bristol,<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €50.<br />
A shuttle bus runs<br />
to Marseille’s train<br />
station, Gare St Charles<br />
every 20 mins. Tickets:<br />
€8.50 single.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 New Dalat<br />
(3 Rue Méry, tel: 04<br />
9156 1418) You’ll eat well<br />
in this petite Vietnamese<br />
restaurant, which makes<br />
some of the best soups<br />
in Marseille – try the<br />
tonkinoise (Pho) version.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Une<br />
Table au Sud (2 Quai<br />
du Port, tel: 04 9190<br />
6353) Chef Lionel Levy<br />
explodes the senses with<br />
specialities that include<br />
pieds et paquets (lamb<br />
parcels) and the fi shy<br />
macaroni poutargue<br />
(pasta with fi sh eggs).<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Victor Café<br />
(76 Boulevard Charles<br />
Livon, tel: 04 8800<br />
4600) Smiling waiters<br />
serve smooth cocktails<br />
at this agreeable lounge<br />
bar. The list of cocktails<br />
is endless – you could<br />
be here for a while.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Espace & Café Julien<br />
(39 Cours Julien, tel:<br />
04 9124 3410) This is a<br />
popular concert venue.<br />
Go to Espace Julien<br />
for rock, pop, hip hop,<br />
reggae, world music and<br />
jazz, or Café Julien for<br />
up-and-coming talent.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Visit Marseille’s<br />
Rastafarian tailor<br />
Tom, who works like<br />
magic and keeps you<br />
entertained. Look for his<br />
London cab outside<br />
(22 Rue Petites Maries).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Marseille is the new<br />
capital of Mediterranean<br />
cruises – 710,000<br />
passengers set off from<br />
the port last year, and<br />
two million are predicted<br />
to do so by 2015.<br />
Claire McAlpine<br />
HAMMAMS<br />
AT ZEIN<br />
GO Guaranteed to<br />
rejuvenate, enjoy one<br />
of the multicultural<br />
benefi ts of the city<br />
and visit a hammam<br />
at Zeïn Oriental Spa<br />
(16 Quai de Rive<br />
Neuve, Vieux Port, tel:<br />
04 9159 1111).<br />
Milan<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Agadir,<br />
Amsterdam, Athens,<br />
Barcelona, Bari,<br />
Berlin, Bordeaux,<br />
Brindisi, Bucharest,<br />
Brussels, Cagliari,<br />
Casablanca, Catania,<br />
Copenhagen, Corfu,<br />
Crete (Heraklion),<br />
Dubrovnik, Edinburgh,<br />
Ibiza, Lamezia,<br />
Lisbon, London<br />
(LGW, LTN), Lyon,<br />
Madrid, Majorca,<br />
Málaga, Malta,<br />
Marrakech, Menorca,<br />
Mykonos, Naples,<br />
Olbia, Palermo,<br />
Paris (CDG, ORY),<br />
Porto, Prague,<br />
Rhodes, Rome<br />
(FCO), Santorini,<br />
Split, Stockholm,<br />
Thessaloniki, Toulouse<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
LINATE<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €25<br />
ATM’s route 73<br />
connects with<br />
the metro at San<br />
Babila. Tickets: €1.<br />
The Starfl y goes to<br />
Centrale station.<br />
Tickets: €4.50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
MALPENSA<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €70.<br />
The Malpensa<br />
Shuttle departs<br />
for Centrale station<br />
roughly every 20 minutes<br />
from 5.30am–1.30am.<br />
Tickets: €7.<br />
The Malpensa<br />
Express departs<br />
from Terminal 1 for<br />
Cadorna station every<br />
30 minutes from 6am–<br />
1.30am. Tickets: €11.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Mar<br />
Rosso (8 Via Marco<br />
Aurelio, tel: 02 282<br />
2682) “Red Sea” is<br />
an African-themed<br />
restaurant off ering<br />
a warm welcome and<br />
specialities inspired<br />
by the cooking of<br />
Eritrea, a former<br />
Italian colony. There’s<br />
a good buff et on<br />
Thursday evenings.<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Il Ristorantino<br />
della Carne (9 Via<br />
Ripamonti, tel: 02<br />
5831 5594) “The<br />
Little Meat Restaurant”<br />
is exactly what it<br />
says, and exactly<br />
what it does. An<br />
unpretentious hideout<br />
not far from the<br />
centre, where you can<br />
enjoy a quiet meal<br />
for two. The entrecôte<br />
al gorgonzola comes<br />
highly recommended.<br />
UP TO €50 Donati<br />
(4 Via Cassiodoro,<br />
tel: 02 4331 9047)<br />
Donati is a lively<br />
Tuscan restaurant and<br />
a great place for<br />
a loud meal with<br />
friends. The menu<br />
includes traditional<br />
fare such as pasta,<br />
ossobuco and<br />
delicious grilled fi sh.<br />
Gente di Mare (5 Via<br />
Bastioni di Porta Volta,<br />
tel: 02 2900 5823)<br />
This lively hang-out is<br />
great for a big group.<br />
It serves rice and<br />
pasta dishes, as well<br />
as sea bream,<br />
swordfi sh and the<br />
classic fritto misto<br />
– a mixed grill of fi sh<br />
cooked in batter.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Alla<br />
Collina Pistoiese<br />
(1 Via Amedei, tel:<br />
02 8645 1085) A<br />
favourite for lunch<br />
with well-to-do<br />
Milanese families,<br />
this long-established<br />
Tuscan brasserie<br />
recalls an oldfashioned<br />
world of<br />
quality and service<br />
with its white table<br />
cloths, dark panelling<br />
and sumptuous fare.<br />
Quinta Carbonaia<br />
Mare (5 Via Stoppani,<br />
tel: 02 204 6003)<br />
Equally good for a<br />
special occasion or<br />
a romantic meal<br />
for two, this quality<br />
fi sh and seafood<br />
restaurant in the<br />
Porta Venezia district<br />
off ers good value at<br />
less than €50 a head<br />
for fantastic food.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Food<br />
& Fashion (2 Via<br />
Palestrina, tel: 02<br />
9738 3003) This<br />
recent arrival<br />
follows the popular<br />
Milan pattern of<br />
all-day opening, with<br />
a Brazilian-inspired<br />
restaurant, happyhour<br />
cocktails<br />
and DJ-selected<br />
music until late.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Scimmie (49 Via<br />
Ascanio Sforza, tel:<br />
02 8940 2874) This<br />
small venue in the<br />
heart of the busy<br />
Navigli district is<br />
well known on the<br />
international jazz<br />
scene, attracting bigname<br />
artists. Always<br />
packed, but with a<br />
unique atmosphere.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Alcatraz (25 Via<br />
Valtellina, tel: 02<br />
6901 6352) Alcatraz<br />
has some claim to<br />
being Milan’s leading<br />
live music venue, a big<br />
converted warehouse<br />
on the north side<br />
of the city pulling<br />
in big names on the<br />
international circuit<br />
plus dance nights<br />
with famous DJs.<br />
Loolapaloosa (15<br />
Corso Como, tel: 02<br />
655 5693) Established<br />
for more than a<br />
decade, Loolapaloosa<br />
is one of the most<br />
popular clubs on<br />
bustling Corso Como,<br />
attracting a youthful<br />
crowd on weekends.<br />
There’s a strict<br />
door policy, but the<br />
entrance fee includes<br />
a fi rst drink.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP The Milan<br />
outpost of the French<br />
media empire FNAC<br />
is a multi-storey<br />
megastore with
At At Hotel Sonschein, “we had a<br />
balcony which looked out onto<br />
the the snowy hills and across to to<br />
the the Recommended ski Recommended ski slopes. Very magical.” hotels<br />
– TripAdvisor – TripAdvisor Member, York, UK UK<br />
Ready, set, ski.<br />
For the perfect trip to Europe’s most popular ski destinations,<br />
start at TripAdvisor and see what more than 40 million travellers<br />
call the peak places to stay, eat, and play.<br />
Megève, France Cortina D’Ampezzo, Italy<br />
Innsbruck, Austria<br />
Chalet d’Antoine<br />
“Fantastic way to to ski”<br />
La La Grange d’Arly<br />
“Charming stylish ski ski hotel”<br />
Flocons de Sel<br />
“Great skiing and a a lovely town”<br />
Recommended hotels<br />
Mirage Hotel Cortina<br />
“Nice clean rooms, spectacular views”<br />
Hotel Olimpia<br />
“Incredibly kind hotel staff”<br />
Hotel Meuble Oasi<br />
“An easy walk to the Faloria ski lift”<br />
tripadvisor.com tripadvisor.co.uk tripadvisor.de tripadvisor.dk tripadvisor.es tripadvisor.fr<br />
tripadvisor.ie tripadvisor.it tripadvisor.nl tripadvisor.ru tripadvisor.se no.tripadvisor.com<br />
pl.tripadvisor.com tripadvisor.com.br tripadvisor.com.gr tripadvisor.com.tr<br />
Find TripAdvisor hotel reviews at www.hotels.easyJet.com<br />
Recommended hotels<br />
Hotel Weisses Kreuz<br />
“Great location, fantastic breakfast”<br />
Hotel Innsbruck<br />
“Great spa, perfect after skiing”<br />
Dollinger Gasthof<br />
“Quaint ski ski lodge”
162 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Milan<br />
Italy<br />
a cool café inside<br />
(2 Via della Palla, tel:<br />
02 869 541). Via<br />
Torino is a great place<br />
to shop for clothes<br />
and accessories at<br />
more reasonable<br />
prices than in the<br />
upmarket boutiques<br />
of the fashion<br />
district to the north<br />
of the Duomo.<br />
SEE The Festival of<br />
African Cinema is<br />
a week-long event<br />
celebrating fi lmmaking<br />
in Africa, Asia<br />
and South America,<br />
and the only one of its<br />
kind in Italy. Running<br />
from 21–27 March, the<br />
festival features more<br />
than 80 productions<br />
at a range of screens<br />
in the city, including<br />
the Spazio Oberdan<br />
(2 Viale Vittorio Veneto,<br />
tel: 02 7740 6300).<br />
GO Today the Brera<br />
quarter is all about<br />
chic shops and bars,<br />
but historically it<br />
was a bohemian area<br />
dominated by art and<br />
artists. It’s home to<br />
the Pinacoteca, one<br />
of the most important<br />
galleries in Italy, as<br />
well as several ancient<br />
historic churches such<br />
as San Simpliciano<br />
and Santa Maria<br />
del Carmine. The<br />
main streets of Via<br />
Moscova, Via Solferino<br />
and Corso Garibaldi<br />
are good places to<br />
hunt for elegant<br />
houseware, clothes<br />
and accessories, while<br />
by night Brera comes<br />
alive, with its narrow<br />
streets fi lled with<br />
stalls selling jewellery<br />
and ethnic crafts.<br />
ESCAPE Como is one<br />
of the most attractive<br />
towns around Milan,<br />
and was an inspiration<br />
to English poets<br />
including Byron.<br />
Originally famous for<br />
making silk, Como<br />
has a long history and<br />
was home in Roman<br />
times to the writers<br />
Pliny the Elder and<br />
Younger. The Lungo<br />
Lario, the lakefront<br />
promenade, is great<br />
for a walk before<br />
dinner at one of the<br />
elegant restaurants<br />
in Piazza Cavour, a<br />
popular meeting point.<br />
Among the sights<br />
are a fi ne Gothic-<br />
Renaissance cathedral<br />
with a baroque dome<br />
and 16th-century<br />
tapestries inside.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The average Italian<br />
consumes 118 litres<br />
of wine a year.<br />
Charles Searson<br />
STARHOTELS<br />
ANDERSON<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
If your stay in Milan<br />
has to be a suitably<br />
stylish one, look<br />
no further than<br />
this hotel. Breakfast<br />
included. From<br />
€119, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
Montpellier<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW, LTN)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
Take the bus to<br />
Place de l’Europe.<br />
Tickets: €4.90 single.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Specialites<br />
Marocaines (577<br />
Avenue Léon-Blum,<br />
tel: 04 7540 0321) This<br />
is a great little place<br />
knocking out couscous,<br />
tagines, mint tea and<br />
oriental sweetmeats<br />
at giveaway prices.<br />
EXCLUSIVE La<br />
Reserve Rimbaud (820<br />
Avenue St-Maur, tel: 04<br />
6772 5253) Hide away<br />
in civilised luxury in<br />
this fabulous waterside<br />
setting, where you can<br />
enjoy beautifully cooked<br />
fresh dishes based on<br />
seasonal ingredients<br />
and cooked with an<br />
imaginative twist.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Mi Barrio<br />
(11 Rue du Plan-d’Agde,<br />
tel: 04 9958 1215)<br />
Sit on a high stool at<br />
the bar for a relaxing<br />
glass of wine or slide<br />
behind a table if<br />
you’re also ordering<br />
tapas. Whichever you<br />
choose, soak up the<br />
international languages<br />
spoken all around<br />
you and chill out.<br />
LATE & LIVELY The<br />
Circus (3 Rue Collot,<br />
tel: 04 6760 4205)<br />
A dark and cosy New<br />
York-style bar with<br />
snacks, billiards, leather<br />
sofas and plush lighting,<br />
this place heats up as<br />
the night goes on, with<br />
live music at weekends.<br />
It’s deeply fashionable,<br />
however, so dress up.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Madame Klein<br />
Fringologue is a treasure<br />
trove of previously<br />
loved designer wear<br />
and the proprietor has<br />
a ferocious eye for the<br />
best vintage looks.<br />
She only buys highquality<br />
fashion items<br />
in perfect condition<br />
(14 Rue Ste-Anne,<br />
tel: 04 6791 0699).<br />
GO The Antigone<br />
Olympic swimming<br />
pool is a glorious<br />
leisure centre with pool,<br />
whirlpools, a splashy<br />
river, water chute<br />
and café (195 Avenue<br />
Jacques-Cartier,<br />
tel: 04 6715 6300).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Montpellier is the<br />
fastest growing city in<br />
France and regularly<br />
tops the charts as the<br />
city most French people<br />
would like to move to.<br />
Samantha David<br />
WHETHER LAST MINUTE OR PEAK SEASON, WE ALWAYS<br />
GUARANTEE AVAILABILITY WHEN YOU BOOK ONLINE.<br />
Munich<br />
Germany<br />
DIALLING CODE +49<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Edinburgh,<br />
London (LGW, STN),<br />
Manchester<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €55.<br />
Buses leave for<br />
the centre every<br />
20 minutes. Tickets:<br />
€10 single; €16 return.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Königsquelle (2<br />
Baaderplatz, tel: 089 220<br />
071) It may look like your<br />
average bar from the<br />
outside, but Königsquelle<br />
is renowned for its<br />
fabulous wiener<br />
schnitzels, which are<br />
cooked to perfection by<br />
the bar’s Austrian chef.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Landersdorfer &<br />
Innerhofer (6–8<br />
Hackenstrasse, tel:<br />
089 2601 8637) In<br />
the heart of the city,<br />
this inconspicuous<br />
restaurant is an insider’s<br />
tip among local foodies.<br />
There’s no bragging and<br />
no brash advertising,<br />
just exemplary food<br />
and service. Try the<br />
restaurant’s signature<br />
– a surprise set menu.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Kranz (12<br />
Hans-Sachs-Strasse,<br />
tel: 089 2166 8250) Rub<br />
shoulders with hip young<br />
things from Munich’s<br />
boho Glockenbach<br />
district at this minimalist<br />
café-bar, which prides<br />
itself on using only<br />
organic ingredients.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Harlander (8<br />
Braühausstrasse, tel:<br />
089 2324 1652) Just<br />
down the road from the<br />
Hofbräuhaus, this cool<br />
bar combines 1970s<br />
retro with modern, urban<br />
chic. The perfect place to<br />
chill into the early hours.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP For a true taste<br />
of elegant Munich, head<br />
to one of the city’s oldest<br />
department stores,<br />
Lodenfrey. As well as<br />
designer gear, this store<br />
houses a stunning<br />
array of traditional local<br />
costume and is the place<br />
to get your Lederhosen<br />
(7 Maff eistrasse).<br />
SEE If you’re visiting the<br />
city in the fi rst two weeks<br />
of March, don’t miss<br />
the city’s carnival, or<br />
Fasching. Various events<br />
take place from costume<br />
balls to public events in<br />
the pedestrianised zone.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
If Munich’s bid for the<br />
2018 Winter Olympics is<br />
successful, the city will<br />
become the fi rst to host<br />
both the winter and<br />
summer events.<br />
Jill Henne<br />
Europcar guarantees easyJet<br />
passengers great car rental deals.<br />
For your discounted price book<br />
at easyJet.com or visit the<br />
Europcar desk.
Unforgettable Moments<br />
Where short breaks become big occasions!<br />
Experience fantastic moments in Germany’s biggest theme<br />
park! With more than 100 breathtaking rides and spectacular<br />
shows – embedded into 13 European themed areas<br />
– action, fun and unforgettable moments are guaranteed.<br />
Each season is waiting for you with new surprises. Beautiful<br />
decoration and themed festivals provide plenty of<br />
variety all year round. After an eventful day, you can relax at<br />
Info-Line +49 (0) 18 05/77 66 88* · www.europa-park.co.uk · Motorway A5 Karlsruhe - Basel · Exit 57b Europa-Park<br />
Open daily from 9 April until 6 November <strong>2011</strong> from 9 am to 6 pm and from 26 November <strong>2011</strong> until 8 January 2012 (except 24/25 December <strong>2011</strong>)<br />
*14 cent/min. for calls from the German landline network, prices for mobile and international calls may differ<br />
blue fire Megacoaster – powered by GAZPROM<br />
one of the world’s leading theme parks<br />
Win a trip to<br />
Europa-Park!<br />
Participate and win at<br />
www.europapark.de/easyJet<br />
Europa-Park’s 4-star hotel resort or in cosy log-cabins at the<br />
camp resort. Whatever you wish for – Europa-Park will offer<br />
you unforgettable moments.<br />
With easyJet to Europa-Park!<br />
Book your flight to “Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg”! Bus shuttle<br />
or car rental is available at the airport to get to Europa-Park.<br />
For further information and booking please visit www.europa-park.co.uk<br />
“Atlantica SuperSplash” Greek themed village Europa-Park Hotel Resort<br />
Take Part<br />
& Win
164 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Murcia<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Bristol,<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
taxi to Murcia costs €45<br />
and €35 to Torrevieja.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Mármol<br />
(142 Avenida Río<br />
Guadalentín, tel: 968<br />
840 705) On the<br />
outskirts of the city,<br />
Mármol off ers outdoor<br />
dining with views across<br />
to the mountains<br />
and the Fuensanta<br />
Sanctuary. It has<br />
fantastic rice dishes with<br />
veggie options, as well<br />
as rabbit and seafood<br />
paellas. Also on the<br />
menu are grilled meats<br />
or fi sh. For dessert, try<br />
the tasty rice pudding.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Hotel<br />
Hispano (3 Calle Radio<br />
Murcia, tel: 968 216<br />
152) An up-market<br />
hotel off ering a varied<br />
à la carte menu in plush<br />
surroundings. Head<br />
chef Joaquín Abellán<br />
changes the excellent<br />
stews on a daily basis<br />
and also off ers dishes<br />
such as sea bream with<br />
honey and spices.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Bar El<br />
Perela (5 Calle Ruiperez,<br />
tel: 968 935 198) Just<br />
off Gran Vi in the Plaza<br />
de las Flores zone, Bar El<br />
Perela off ers some great<br />
tapas and a relaxed<br />
atmosphere in which to<br />
have a drink and a snack<br />
before moving on to<br />
something more lively.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Monroe’s Rock Cafe<br />
(71 Calle Caballero de<br />
Rodas, Torrevieja, tel:<br />
966 705 325) If you like<br />
it heavy, then Monroe’s<br />
is the place. The genial<br />
owners play pretty<br />
much anything on<br />
request – as long as the<br />
songs are hard and fast.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Try Torrevieja’s<br />
street market on Friday<br />
mornings for some<br />
real bargains.<br />
SEE At Auditorio Victor<br />
Villegas, a series of fi ve<br />
concerts entitled Las<br />
Noches de Blue Note<br />
Records is taking place<br />
throughout the month.<br />
The majority of the<br />
artists will be musicians<br />
on the legendary Blue<br />
Note record label, and<br />
Benin-born guitarist<br />
Lionel Loueke is<br />
appearing on 3 March<br />
(auditoriomurcia.org).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
This year, it’s carnival<br />
on the cheap! In<br />
Cartagena, the budget<br />
for festivities has been<br />
reduced by €70,000.<br />
David Jones<br />
Nantes<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Geneva, London<br />
(LGW), Lyon, Toulouse<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €30.<br />
The Tan bus runs<br />
to Nantes South<br />
train station and the city<br />
centre. Tickets: €7.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Le Resto<br />
Revues (2 Rue de<br />
Refuge) For little over<br />
€10, you can enjoy<br />
homemade dishes such<br />
as pork with coconut<br />
milk and lemon. Try the<br />
almond Charlotte with<br />
rhubarb sauce.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Le<br />
Manoir de la Régate<br />
(155 Route de Gachet,<br />
tel: 02 4018 0297) This<br />
fabulous expensive<br />
gourmet restaurant is<br />
set in a fairytale castle<br />
and serves wonderful<br />
food. Order anything<br />
and it will be sublime.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Le Briord<br />
(3 Rue de Briord, tel: 02<br />
5188 9206) The<br />
regular bon vivants<br />
here love their roasted<br />
Camembert nights,<br />
horror fi lms, Nintendo<br />
tournaments and other<br />
games. It’s all incredibly<br />
good humoured,<br />
powered by fl avoured<br />
rum and glasses of wine.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Le Théâtre (22 Rue<br />
Scribe, tel: 02 4069<br />
7449) Head here for<br />
electro and house,<br />
guest DJs at weekends,<br />
and house cocktails<br />
and other concoctions<br />
all week long. There’s<br />
a friendly and warm<br />
atmosphere, with bar<br />
snacks at midnight.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP La Malle des<br />
Indes is just the remedy<br />
for those searching for<br />
spring – fab clothes,<br />
interior décor, incense,<br />
accessories and all<br />
sorts of bric-a-brac<br />
imported directly from<br />
India can be found here<br />
(2 Place de l’Ecluse).<br />
SEE The Spanish<br />
Cinema Festival runs<br />
from 24 March to 5 April,<br />
a showcase for more<br />
than 50 fi lms. All the<br />
latest releases, including<br />
20 French premieres,<br />
will be shown, and there<br />
will also be round-table<br />
discussions and an<br />
exhibition (cinespagnolnantes.com).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Jules Verne, author of<br />
Around the World in<br />
80 Days and Journey to<br />
the Centre of the Earth,<br />
was born in Nantes on<br />
8 February 1828.<br />
Samantha David<br />
Naples<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Berlin, Geneva, Ibiza,<br />
Liverpool, London<br />
(LGW, STN), Madrid,<br />
Milan (MXP), Paris<br />
(ORY), Venice<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €35.<br />
The Alibus shuttle<br />
stops at the train<br />
station and Piazza<br />
Municipio. Tickets: €4.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 O’<br />
Scugnizz’ (72 Galleria<br />
Umberto, tel: 081 401<br />
199) This casual eatery<br />
tucked in Galleria<br />
Umberto is a great spot<br />
for espresso, snacks<br />
and people-watching.<br />
EXCLUSIVE ‘A<br />
Fenestella (23 Via<br />
Marechiaro, tel: 081<br />
769 0020) ‘A Fenestella<br />
exudes Old World charm<br />
with its elegant décor,<br />
captivating views and<br />
live piano music on<br />
weekends. Neapolitanstyle<br />
seafood dishes and<br />
homemade pastries are<br />
the house specialities.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Perditempo (8 Via San<br />
Pietro a Majella) As the<br />
name implies, it’s easy<br />
to “lose time” here<br />
as you sip wine while<br />
picking through the<br />
selection of books.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Madras Lounge (4 Via<br />
Fascione) Here you’ll<br />
fi nd warm lighting, soft<br />
couches and people<br />
grooving to world beat<br />
and Latin music.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
GO From the little alleys<br />
to the peaceful garden<br />
of Santa Chiara, Naples’<br />
historic city centre<br />
dates back to the Greek<br />
settlement of Neapolis<br />
and is a UNESCO World<br />
Heritage Site.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Naples’ Castel dell’Ovo,<br />
is so named because of<br />
a legend claiming that<br />
Latin poet Virgil placed<br />
an enchanted egg<br />
in its foundations.<br />
Tui Cameron<br />
ART<br />
CHIAJA<br />
SHOP Art Chiaja<br />
off ers uniquely<br />
Neapolitan souvenirs:<br />
delicate cameos,<br />
coral jewellery,<br />
gouache illustrations,<br />
ceramics, Pulcinella<br />
fi gurines and more<br />
(238 Via Chiaia).
Buy the Buff Snood<br />
& Bloc Ski Goggles<br />
together & Save<br />
£5/€7.50<br />
Hitting the<br />
slopes?<br />
See the latest ski<br />
range on board today<br />
(See pages 4 and 5 in Bistro & Boutique)<br />
SKI ISSUE<br />
Boutique B t & Bistro<br />
January - April <strong>2011</strong><br />
See pages 4 and 5<br />
in Boutique and Bistro<br />
Subject to availability.<br />
Better er<br />
together er<br />
Great products to share<br />
Subject to availability. Available on selected aircraft only
166 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Newcastle<br />
UK<br />
DIALLING CODE +44<br />
CURRENCY £<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Alicante,<br />
Barcelona, Belfast (BFS),<br />
Bristol, Faro, Geneva, Ibiza,<br />
London (STN), Majorca,<br />
Málaga, Malta, Menorca,<br />
Nice, Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs £18.<br />
The Metro<br />
services the city<br />
centre. Tickets: £3<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Arami<br />
(6–10 Leazes Park<br />
Road) A bright venue<br />
that’s one of the only<br />
places in the UK to serve<br />
jackfruit, the national<br />
fruit of Bangladesh.<br />
This Indian restaurant<br />
prides itself on sourcing<br />
organic produce.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Blackfriars (Friars<br />
Street, tel: 0191 261<br />
5945) Dating back to<br />
1239, the venue has a<br />
horseshoe of buildings<br />
sheltering a medieval<br />
courtyard, and it’s<br />
quite possibly the<br />
oldest purpose-built<br />
restaurant in the UK. It’s<br />
one of Newcastle’s bestregarded<br />
restaurants,<br />
with inclusions in the<br />
Michelin guide.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Benton Ale<br />
House (Front Street,<br />
Benton) This is a homely,<br />
no-nonsense, traditional<br />
bar that draws in locals,<br />
shoppers and business<br />
people alike with its wide<br />
range of real ales.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Madame Koo’s<br />
(Collingwood Street,<br />
tel: 0191 261 8271)<br />
Boasting Newcastle’s<br />
only octagonal<br />
dancefl oor, Madame<br />
Koo’s is an Easternfl<br />
avour bar that pumps<br />
out Kylie, Sugababes<br />
and Luther Van Dross<br />
with a knowing wink.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Culture vultures<br />
will love the BALTIC shop<br />
in the BALTIC Centre<br />
for Contemporary Art<br />
in Gateshead. Artistdesigned<br />
products,<br />
homewares, T-shirts<br />
and design-led gifts can<br />
be found in abundance<br />
(Gateshead Quays,<br />
South Shore Road).<br />
SEE Newcastle is<br />
football-mad and<br />
at the Discovery<br />
Museum decades of<br />
rare Newcastle United<br />
memorabilia will be<br />
dusted off in the exciting<br />
exhibition, NUFC: For<br />
the Love of Football<br />
(Blandford Square).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The world’s fi rst dog<br />
show was held in<br />
Newcastle in 1859.<br />
Michelle Ord<br />
French<br />
mortgage<br />
best buys<br />
Nice<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Belfast (BFS), Berlin,<br />
Bristol, Brussels,<br />
Edinburgh, Geneva,<br />
Liverpool, London<br />
(LGW, LTN, STN), Lyon,<br />
Newcastle, Paris (CDG,<br />
ORY), Rome (FCO)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €30.<br />
Bus 98 stops at<br />
Nice’s Old Town<br />
and the Gare Routière.<br />
Tickets: €4.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 La<br />
Fougasserie (5 Rue de<br />
la Poissonnerie, tel: 04<br />
9380 9245) Go local and<br />
head to this Old Town<br />
bakery. Try the fougasse<br />
(bread) or Niçoise-style<br />
pizza topped with olives,<br />
tomatoes and bacon.<br />
UP TO €30 Le Café<br />
de Turin (2 Place<br />
Garibaldi, tel: 04 9362<br />
2952) Take an early<br />
lunch to be sure of a<br />
place and sit under the<br />
enchanting arcades that<br />
surround this institution.<br />
By far the most popular<br />
At IPF we make the process of getting<br />
French mortgages simple - Just like<br />
our french mortgage best buy tables.<br />
Get the latest rates for France and<br />
Italy, Portugal and Spain by visiting<br />
internationalprivatefi nance.com<br />
or call one of our bilingual team on<br />
+44 (0)207 484 4600<br />
seafood restaurant in<br />
the city, it off ers bustle<br />
and a theatre-like<br />
performance as the<br />
shellfi sh is skillfully<br />
prepared in front of your<br />
eyes and served rapidly<br />
on large tiered platters.<br />
UP TO €50 Le Fusion<br />
(6 Quai Antione 1er,<br />
Monaco, tel: +377 9797<br />
9595) The owner of the<br />
well-known Stars’N’Bars<br />
has opened this cool,<br />
sophisticated restaurant<br />
upstairs for the over-<br />
20s. Expect a fantastic<br />
view of the harbour,<br />
plus sushi and Asian<br />
specialities. Evenings<br />
only, closed on Sundays.<br />
EXCLUSIVE La<br />
Bastide Saint-Antoine<br />
(48 Avenue Henri<br />
Dunant, Grasse, tel:<br />
04 9370 9494) With<br />
a wonderful picturepostcard<br />
backdrop and<br />
a distinctly Provençal<br />
atmosphere, this<br />
hotel-restaurant set in<br />
enchanting gardens<br />
is just outside Grasse.<br />
Owner Jacques Chibois,<br />
one of the Côte d’Azur’s<br />
leading chefs, concocts<br />
fragrant, delicate<br />
cuisine featuring<br />
truffl es, foie gras,<br />
crayfi sh and seabass.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Snug<br />
and Cellar (22 Rue<br />
Droite) Picnic tables<br />
fi ll the corner terrace<br />
surrounding the Old<br />
Town’s newest pub.<br />
Go for the happy hour<br />
specials, which include<br />
fruit punch and cocktails.<br />
LIVE MUSIC<br />
Le Karé(ment)<br />
(10 Avenue Princesse<br />
Grace, Monaco, tel: +377<br />
Type of<br />
Mortgage<br />
Based on a loan amount of €250,000 and a 20 year term,<br />
rates correct as of 08/02/11. Lower interest rates will be<br />
available at different LTVs (loan to values)<br />
9999 2020) Occasional<br />
live concerts are<br />
staged at this highly<br />
contemporary congress<br />
centre, right on the<br />
seafront. It’s ladies’ night<br />
on Thursdays from 7pm.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Le Flag (6 Rue Eugène<br />
Emmanuel, tel: 04<br />
9387 2967) Colour and<br />
exuberance drip off the<br />
walls in this popular<br />
gay club-come-lounge<br />
venue. Cocktails and<br />
snacks are served to the<br />
sounds of the resident<br />
DJ, and the weekend<br />
fi nds this place grooving<br />
until the early hours.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Cours Saleya,<br />
Nice’s most emblematic<br />
street, is home to a<br />
famous fruit and fl ower<br />
market. Every morning<br />
(except for Mondays,<br />
when the thrift and<br />
antiques stalls move in)<br />
fi nds you surrounded<br />
by vendors of candied<br />
fruit and local produce,<br />
including lavender, soaps<br />
and other Provençal<br />
MARS AUX<br />
MUSEES<br />
SEE Throughout<br />
March, Nice’s art<br />
museums and<br />
galleries – including<br />
Musée de Matisse,<br />
MAMAC and Galerie<br />
de la Ponchettes –<br />
open their doors for<br />
nocturnal visits.<br />
Max<br />
LTV<br />
Starting<br />
Rates from Interest<br />
Only<br />
trinkets. Nearby Alziari is<br />
a magnet for those with<br />
a penchant for all things<br />
olive-based. Fragrant<br />
oils and tubs of fresh<br />
olives attract the<br />
hordes (14 Rue St<br />
François de Paule).<br />
GO Nice’s 67th<br />
International Fair (from<br />
12–27 March) covers<br />
everything from home<br />
and decoration to<br />
wellbeing and wine.<br />
More than 1,500<br />
exhibitors take over the<br />
city, where infl uences of<br />
the Mediterranean and<br />
further afi eld converge<br />
for one of Europe’s<br />
most popular fairs.<br />
ESCAPE Monaco is<br />
within easy reach of Nice<br />
and buses leave every<br />
15 minutes from Gare<br />
Routière. Once there,<br />
pick up a street map and<br />
take a pleasant stroll<br />
around the ultra-rich<br />
country. Visit the<br />
Golden Circle, which<br />
hosts all the luxury<br />
labels, although more<br />
aff ordable options can<br />
be found at Condamine<br />
market, with its tiny<br />
boutiques and shops.<br />
The best place to start or<br />
end your visit is at Palais<br />
Princier, where you can<br />
take a guided tour and<br />
enjoy the breathtaking<br />
views over the port.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Little more than a<br />
century ago, much<br />
of Cap Ferrat was the<br />
domain of just one man:<br />
Leopold II of Belgium,<br />
the former proprietor of<br />
Congo and the largest<br />
landowner the world<br />
has ever seen.<br />
John Brown<br />
Monthly<br />
payments<br />
Cap & Collar 100% 3.40% No €1437<br />
Cap & Collar 80% 2.90% No €1374<br />
Tracker 80% 2.55% Yes €531
UNDER THE HIGH PATRONAGE OF<br />
H.S.H. SOVEREIGN PRINCE OF MONACO<br />
MONTE-CARLO<br />
ROLEX MASTERS<br />
www.epi.mc 10115 Copyright Andrew Davidson www.theartworksinc.com<br />
From April 9 th to17 th<br />
ATP<br />
Award of<br />
Excellence<br />
2010<br />
The best players<br />
in the world<br />
MONTE CARLO COUNTRY CLUB<br />
Tel. (+377) 97 98 7000<br />
www.montecarlorolexmasters.mc<br />
156Lx105H EasyJet.indd 1 6/01/11 12:37:47
168 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Olbia<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Berlin, Bristol, Geneva,<br />
London (LGW), Lyon,<br />
Milan (MXP), Paris (ORY)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com<br />
A local taxi costs €15.<br />
The Linea Urbana<br />
bus goes to Olbia<br />
every 30 minutes.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Da<br />
Gesuino (2 Via Romana,<br />
tel: 0789 22395) Wellknown<br />
for its typical<br />
fi sh dishes, Da Gesuino<br />
is a characteristic<br />
restaurant in the centre<br />
of Olbia where you’ll<br />
feel right at home.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Gallura<br />
(145 Corso Umberto,<br />
tel: 0789 24648)<br />
A tavern restaurant<br />
with opulent fi ve-star<br />
service, this remains<br />
the only restaurant in<br />
the city to have won<br />
a Michelin star. The<br />
onion soup and mutton<br />
broth complement<br />
the selection of<br />
fresh seafood in the<br />
colder months.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Vignando<br />
(2 Corso Umberto, tel:<br />
0789 21653) Typical<br />
wine bar in the centre of<br />
the city, where you can<br />
taste the best Sardinian<br />
red and white wines<br />
or just have a coff ee<br />
or a cocktail.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
D-Ivan (Via dei<br />
Maniscalchi) Fashionable<br />
club where you can drink<br />
the best cocktails, listen<br />
to live Latin American<br />
music, have a bash at<br />
karaoke or just natter<br />
with your friends.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Olbia’s main<br />
street that leads to<br />
the bay is called Corso<br />
Umberto, and is cut<br />
off to traffi c after 7pm.<br />
The lower end of the<br />
boulevard, near the<br />
bay, holds a variety of<br />
markets with antiques<br />
and food stands that<br />
add a little more colour<br />
to the evening.<br />
GO A few kilometres<br />
north of Olbia begins<br />
the wonderful scenery<br />
of the Costa Smeralda,<br />
an enchanting side of<br />
north Sardinia, off ering<br />
the possibilities to enjoy<br />
an unspoiled landscape<br />
with special coloured sea<br />
and breathtaking coast<br />
with its renowned white<br />
sandy beaches and<br />
numerous small ports.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Olbia had been named<br />
several times in its<br />
history. The name seems<br />
to have Greek origins,<br />
and Olbia polis in Greek<br />
means “the happy city”.<br />
ciaosardinia.com<br />
Palermo<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW),<br />
Milan (MXP), Paris<br />
(ORY), Rome (FCO)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €50.<br />
The Trinacria<br />
Express goes<br />
to the central station.<br />
Tickets: €5.50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
La Gondola (144 Via<br />
Principe di Scordia, tel:<br />
091 331 748) Despite<br />
the Venetian name,<br />
this is probably the<br />
last of the authentic<br />
Sicilian taverns, with<br />
no-nonsense traditional<br />
home-cooking.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Bye<br />
Bye Blues (23 Via<br />
del Garofalo, tel: 091<br />
684 1415) Adjacent to<br />
Mondello, this awardwinning<br />
restaurant<br />
searches the world for<br />
the ingredients that<br />
make its dishes so<br />
unique, such as<br />
lasagne with goat’s<br />
cheese ricotta and<br />
piacentino cheese.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Mi Manda Picone (59<br />
Via Paternostro, tel: 091<br />
616 0660) Come here<br />
for the best local, Italian<br />
and international wines<br />
served outside in the<br />
hippest area in town.<br />
Nibble on a piece of<br />
Sicilian fi nger food, too.<br />
LATE & LIVELY Reloj<br />
(5 Via Pasquale Calvi, tel:<br />
091 611 9698) Housed in<br />
a former cinema, this is<br />
one of the see-and-beseen<br />
places in Palermo.<br />
Eat, drink and listen to<br />
live music, or just peoplewatch<br />
the night away.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Pizzo & Pizzo<br />
has opened a branch<br />
in a central location,<br />
where clients can not<br />
only buy from the vast<br />
assortment of local food<br />
and wines, but also sit<br />
and savour some of<br />
the specialities in the<br />
on-site restaurant<br />
(1P Via XII Gennaio).<br />
SEE PPS: Paesaggio<br />
e Popolo Della Sicilia, an<br />
exhibit comprising 22<br />
local artists’ work, takes<br />
a look at the island.<br />
Part of the installation<br />
includes a documentary<br />
fi lm by Oscar-winning<br />
director Giuseppe<br />
Tornatore (Museo<br />
D’Arte Contemporanea<br />
Palazzo Riso, 365 Corso<br />
Vittorio Emanuele).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The fi rst name of<br />
Palermo, dating back<br />
to the eighth century<br />
BC, was Zyz. In the<br />
Phoenician language,<br />
this meant “fl ower”.<br />
Conchita Vecchio<br />
Circ. Nord. Direzione Golfo Aranci - Olbia | Tel: +39 0789554000 | reservation@geovillage.it<br />
TAXI<br />
Paris<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Agadir, Athens,<br />
Biarritz, Belfast (BFS),<br />
Berlin, Brest, Brindisi<br />
Bristol, Budapest,<br />
Casablanca, Catania,<br />
Copenhagen, Corsica<br />
(Ajaccio), Corsica<br />
(Bastia), Dubrovnik,<br />
Edinburgh, Faro, Fez,<br />
Geneva, Glasgow,<br />
Helsinki, Ibiza, Krakow,<br />
Lisbon, Liverpool,<br />
Ljubljana, London (LTN),<br />
Madrid, Majorca, Málaga,<br />
Marrakech, Menorca,<br />
Milan (MXP, LIN),<br />
Mykonos, Naples,<br />
Newcastle, Nice, Olbia,<br />
Palermo, Pisa, Porto,<br />
Prague, Rome (CIA),<br />
Split, Tangier, Toulouse,<br />
Venice, Zagreb<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
ORLY<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €35.<br />
The Orly bus<br />
stops at Place<br />
Denfert-Rochereau.<br />
Tickets: €6.40.<br />
The RER B4<br />
goes to Châtelet.<br />
Trains run from 6am–<br />
11pm. Tickets: €9.85.<br />
The C2 line takes<br />
you straight to<br />
Invalides. Tickets:<br />
€7.60 return.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
ROISSY-CHARLES<br />
DE GAULLE<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €45.<br />
The Roissy Bus<br />
stops at Opéra.<br />
Tickets: €9.10.<br />
Take the RER B3<br />
to Gare du Nord.<br />
Tickets: €8.80.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Chartier<br />
(7 Rue du Faubourg<br />
Montmartre, 9th, tel:<br />
01 4770 8629) This<br />
bustling turn-of-the-<br />
20th-century worker’s<br />
canteen is still one of<br />
the best deals in Paris.<br />
Traditional French fare,<br />
such as steak frites<br />
and oeufs mayonnaise,<br />
is served by somewhat<br />
brusque but extremely<br />
effi cient waiters.<br />
UP TO €30 Glou<br />
(101 Rue Vieille du<br />
HÔTEL<br />
LEBRON<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
Theatres, museums<br />
and the National Opera<br />
all sit close by, allowing<br />
you to explore cultural<br />
Paris from here.<br />
Breakfast included.<br />
From €112, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
SPECIAL OFFER - EASTER <strong>2011</strong><br />
Package of 1, 2 and 3 nights half board<br />
from €67.00 per person, including gourmet<br />
<br />
reservations free upgrade to superior room!
© Bal du Moulin Rouge <strong>2011</strong> - Moulin Rouge ® - 1-1028499<br />
DISCOVER “FÉERIE”,<br />
THE SHOW OF THE MOST FAMOUS CABARET IN THE WORLD !<br />
DINNER & SHOW AT 7PM FROM 150€ • SHOW AT 9PM: 102€, AT 11PM : 92€<br />
Montmartre - 82, Boulevard de Clichy - 75018 Paris<br />
Reservations : 33(0)1 53 09 82 82 - www.moulin-rouge.com
170 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Paris<br />
France<br />
Temple, tel: 01 4274<br />
4432) A trendy neobistro<br />
overlooking the<br />
gardens of the Picasso<br />
Museum, specialising<br />
in organic, free-range<br />
fi sh, meats and<br />
vegetables. Lunch is<br />
more casual, while<br />
dinner attracts the<br />
hip Marais crowd.<br />
UP TO €50 Julien<br />
(16 Rue du Faubourg<br />
St-Denis, 10th, tel: 01<br />
4770 1206) The heart<br />
of a bustling ethnic<br />
market street is an<br />
unlikely location for<br />
a gorgeous brasserie,<br />
but once you slope<br />
inside you soon<br />
forget about the<br />
stalls outside. On<br />
the menu are classic<br />
French dishes<br />
such as cassoulet,<br />
sole meunière and<br />
profi teroles with<br />
Valrhona hot<br />
chocolate. Valet<br />
parking is available<br />
for those who arrive<br />
in true style.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Les<br />
Ombres (Musée du<br />
Quai Branly, 27 Quai<br />
Branly, 7th, tel: 01<br />
4753 6800) Relax<br />
in a striking setting<br />
beneath a glass-andmetal<br />
ceiling, with<br />
views of the Eiff el Tower<br />
and the Seine. The<br />
exotic décor mirrors<br />
the museum’s primitive<br />
arts collection, but<br />
the food is decidedly<br />
contemporary French.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY L’Entracte<br />
des Gobelins (75<br />
Avenue des Gobelins,<br />
tel: 01 4331 0229)<br />
Located opposite two<br />
movie theatres, this<br />
typical French bar is<br />
a great place to stop<br />
for a quick meal, a<br />
baguette sandwich<br />
or just a drink, and is<br />
open every day from<br />
7am to 2am. There<br />
are newspapers,<br />
magazines, several<br />
TV screens and<br />
friendly staff , plus<br />
a festive atmosphere<br />
for St Patrick’s Day.<br />
LIVE MUSIC Pop In<br />
(105 Rue Amelot,<br />
tel: 01 4805 5611) This<br />
scruff y little music<br />
bar on the edge of<br />
the Marais and Bastille<br />
districts has live<br />
music DJs on Fridays<br />
and Saturdays, open<br />
mic nights on Sundays,<br />
and live bands from<br />
all over the world<br />
on the tiny basement<br />
stage on Mondays<br />
to Thursdays – without<br />
an entrance fee.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Favela Chic (18<br />
Rue du Faubourg du<br />
Temple, tel: 01 4021<br />
3814) This popular<br />
Brazilian restaurantbar-nightclub<br />
near<br />
République is one of the<br />
sure bets in east Paris<br />
for lively booty shaking<br />
until dawn. Entry is<br />
free from Tuesday to<br />
Thursday, and €10<br />
(including a drink) on<br />
Friday and Saturday,<br />
when the DJs get the<br />
crowd up on the tables<br />
(literally) until 4am.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP If Julia Child<br />
has inspired you to try<br />
your hand at French<br />
cooking, a good place<br />
to start is with the<br />
best cooking supplies.<br />
Check out the newly<br />
opened Atelier<br />
Cuisiner de Geneviève<br />
Lethu (Passy Plaza,<br />
53 Rue de Passy,<br />
tel: 01 4525 8484).<br />
SEE Paris is the place<br />
for cinema-lovers, and<br />
this month you can<br />
catch the Printemps<br />
du Cinéma festival<br />
from 20–22 March,<br />
with all fi lms just €3.50<br />
– a real bargain in this<br />
city (printempsdu<br />
cinema.com).<br />
GO St-Germaindes-Prés<br />
(6th) was<br />
once considered the<br />
intellectual district<br />
of Paris, but the<br />
existentialists and<br />
surrealists of the<br />
1950s and 1960s have<br />
been slowly replaced<br />
by high-end art<br />
galleries, home décor<br />
shops and fashion<br />
boutiques. Spend an<br />
afternoon sipping<br />
a crème on the terrace<br />
CHÂTEAU<br />
D’ANGERS<br />
ESCAPE Angers<br />
is one of the most<br />
vibrant towns in the<br />
Loire Valley. Escape<br />
the city and visit the<br />
historic chateau and its<br />
Apocalypse Tapestry,<br />
the majestic cathedral<br />
at the top of the stairs.<br />
of historic Les Deux<br />
Magots (6 Place<br />
St-Germain-des-<br />
Prés) and enjoy the<br />
swank procession of<br />
the Left Bank’s most<br />
fashionable locals.<br />
GO Bastille is not only<br />
the historic rallying<br />
point for all public<br />
protests since the<br />
French Revolution: the<br />
neighbourhood is also<br />
known for its many<br />
bars and nightclubs,<br />
the Opéra Bastille,<br />
and one of the largest<br />
open-air markets in<br />
Paris (Thursday and<br />
Sunday mornings).<br />
ESCAPE The historic<br />
town of Beauvais, just<br />
45 minutes’ north<br />
of Paris by train, is<br />
known for its<br />
magnifi cent Cathedral<br />
St Pierre, which has<br />
the tallest vault in<br />
the world. Also<br />
worth a look is the<br />
contemporary tapestry<br />
museum (beauvais.fr).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
In the fi rst room of<br />
Musée Carnavalet,<br />
which is dedicated to<br />
the history of Paris,<br />
you’ll fi nd a large<br />
cylindrical ceramic<br />
container with a spout<br />
at the bottom. No, it<br />
isn’t a large beer keg.<br />
It’s what all bourgeois<br />
households used to<br />
hold water for the<br />
week before indoor<br />
plumbing was<br />
widespread. It even<br />
had a layer of charcoal<br />
to fi lter the water<br />
(which was carried<br />
in buckets from the<br />
Seine by the poor).<br />
Heather Stimmler-Hall<br />
TENUTA SAN PIETRO LUXURY HOTEL & RESTAURANT<br />
Ideal location for: Weddings, Cooking lessons,<br />
Wine tasting, Olive oil tasting & Relaxing weekends<br />
Via per San Pietro, 22/26. San Pietro a Marcigliano. Lucca<br />
Tel: +39 0583.92.66.76 | Gsm: +39 392.989.24.97 | Fax: +39 0583.92.66.78<br />
info@tenuta-san-pietro.com | www.tenuta-san-pietro.com<br />
Pisa<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Berlin, Bristol,<br />
London (LGW, LTN),<br />
Paris (ORY)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €7.<br />
Route 3 stops<br />
at Pisa Central.<br />
Tickets: €0.77.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Pizzeria<br />
Bella Napoli (44 Via del<br />
Borghetto, tel: 050 578<br />
520) Naples claims to<br />
have the best pizza in<br />
Italy, and this pizzeria<br />
creates them in the<br />
traditional Neapolitan<br />
way. Order the classic<br />
margherita with<br />
mozzarella di bufala, or<br />
topped with anchovies<br />
and capers, cooked in<br />
a wood-burning oven.<br />
EXCLUSIVE India<br />
(52 Via Roma, tel:<br />
050 48513) Expect<br />
authentic Indian<br />
cuisine served in a<br />
sumptuous atmosphere<br />
with traditional<br />
music playing in the<br />
background. Fit<br />
for a maharajah.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Caff etteria<br />
delle Vettovaglie (33<br />
Piazza delle Vettovaglie)<br />
A café in the old market<br />
place, where you can<br />
relax after dinner with<br />
a cocktail or glass<br />
of wine and listen<br />
to great live jazz.<br />
LATE & LIVELY La<br />
Bugia (Via San Frediano,<br />
tel: 050 500 220) A<br />
great place to while<br />
away the night with big<br />
sandwiches, DJ music<br />
and plenty of beer.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Upmarket shops<br />
on Corso Italia on the<br />
other side of the Arno<br />
off er the new spring/<br />
summer collection of<br />
fi ne Italian fashion. If it’s<br />
food you want to take<br />
home, fi ll your pantry<br />
shelves with typical<br />
Tuscan products from<br />
shops on Via St Maria.<br />
SEE The community of<br />
Montopoli in Val D’Arno,<br />
in collaboration with the<br />
Slow Food movement,<br />
presents a gastronomic<br />
feast from 16–17 March<br />
(montopoli.net). If<br />
you prefer culture<br />
to cravings, Teatro<br />
Politeama in Cascina<br />
presents a rock drama<br />
inspired by the timeless<br />
songs of the Fab Four,<br />
from 24–25 March<br />
(lacittadelteatro.it).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Pisa-born Galileo<br />
Galilei was under house<br />
arrest in Florence for<br />
heresy, and forbidden to<br />
discuss his astronomic<br />
discoveries with anyone,<br />
when he died in 1642.<br />
Silvia Falsaperla
BEST<br />
VALUE IN<br />
PARIS<br />
The Hotel Taylor<br />
will delight both you<br />
and your wallet<br />
ON THE RIGHT BANK, in a peaceful,<br />
secluded position on a quiet one-way street<br />
just outside the bustling centre of Paris and<br />
within walking distance of Notre Dame, the<br />
family-run boutique Hotel Taylor is the<br />
perfect base from which to enjoy a romantic<br />
break in the City of Light. Just a short walk<br />
from the lively Marais district and close to<br />
major department stores, the Place des<br />
Vosges, Bastille and Canal Saint Martin, the<br />
hotel’s location is unbeatable.<br />
With a charming and cosy ambience as<br />
SPECIAL<br />
OFFER<br />
Special rates for<br />
March, visit<br />
paristaylorhotel.com<br />
for more info<br />
ADVERTISING PROMOTION<br />
well as 37 newly refurbished, soundproofed<br />
guestrooms and modern, romantic<br />
interiors, you’ll be tempted to stay in, as well<br />
as to go out. Hotel amenities include free<br />
WiFi, a fl at-screen TV in every bedroom and<br />
a sumptuous buff et breakfast. And the<br />
hotel’s attentive and experienced staff are<br />
always on hand to help with restaurant<br />
suggestions, taxi bookings and more.<br />
Last but not least, Hotel Taylor is<br />
outstanding value for money – with single<br />
rooms from just €80 and doubles from €91,<br />
it is the hotel of choice for savvy travellers.<br />
Hôtel Taylor, 6 rue Taylor, 75010 Paris,<br />
tel: +33 (0)1 4240 1101<br />
Email: contact@paristaylorhotel.com<br />
paristaylorhotel.com
172 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Porto<br />
Portugal<br />
DIALLING CODE +351<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Geneva, London (LGW),<br />
Lyon, Paris (CDG),<br />
Milan (MXP)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
around €20.<br />
Metro trains take<br />
you to the centre.<br />
Tickets: €1.40 single.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Casa<br />
Agrícola (241–243 Rua<br />
Bom Sucesso, tel: 22<br />
605 3350) A friendly<br />
atmosphere is generated<br />
in this wonderfully<br />
restored building. Try<br />
the smoked duck breast<br />
with blackberry sauce.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Telégrapho (Rua<br />
Ferreira Borges, Palácio<br />
da Bolsa, tel: 22 332<br />
2019) Located in<br />
Palácio da Bolsa (Stock<br />
Exchange Palace), this<br />
restaurant off ers fi ne<br />
service and an excellent<br />
selection of Portuguese<br />
and international<br />
specialities, the<br />
emphasis being on<br />
succulent beef. Booking<br />
is recommended.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Café<br />
Majestic (112 Rua<br />
Santa Catarina, tel: 22<br />
200 3887) This local<br />
institution is one of<br />
Europe’s most historic<br />
coff ee houses. Enjoy<br />
indulgent chocolate<br />
cake, served by<br />
friendly staff in a<br />
pleasant atmosphere.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Pitch (34–38 Rua<br />
Passos Manuel, tel:<br />
22 201 2349) This is a<br />
relatively new late-night<br />
disco that has become<br />
very popular. Upstairs<br />
there’s soul and funk;<br />
downstairs it’s techno<br />
from international DJs.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Olá Tia!, with<br />
its friendly staff , off ers<br />
a wide selection of<br />
accessories, gifts and<br />
home-decorating items<br />
with a distinctly 21stcentury<br />
Portuguese feel<br />
(447 Rua de Gondarém).<br />
GO Porto’s riverfront<br />
(Baixa) has undergone<br />
an extensive project of<br />
renovation during the<br />
past decade. From the<br />
main train station at<br />
Sao Bento, just keep<br />
walking downhill until<br />
you get to the river.<br />
You’ll fi nd numerous<br />
restaurants, bars and<br />
shops to choose from.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
In JK Rowling’s Harry<br />
Potter books, the<br />
dark wizard Salazar<br />
Slytherin’s name is a<br />
reference to António de<br />
Oliveira Salazar, who<br />
was dictator of Portugal<br />
from 1932–68.<br />
Joseph Guerra<br />
<br />
Prague<br />
Czech Republic<br />
DIALLING CODE +420<br />
CURRENCY CZK<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Amsterdam,<br />
Belfast, Bristol, London<br />
(LGW, STN), Lyon, Milan<br />
(MXP), Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
Cedaz vans cost CZK90<br />
per person.<br />
Catch bus 119 to<br />
Dejvicka then take<br />
the A metro line to the<br />
centre. Tickets: CZK26.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 U Sadlu<br />
(2 Klimentska, tel: 224<br />
813 874) If you don’t like<br />
a bit of medieval fun, rest<br />
assured your kids will. Let<br />
them share a dish called<br />
“something for two brave<br />
knights” and consider<br />
your work done.<br />
EXCLUSIVE V Zatisi<br />
(Betlemske nam, 1<br />
Liliova, tel: 222 221 155)<br />
You’re guaranteed an<br />
absolutely exquisite<br />
experience at this<br />
restaurant, well-known<br />
for its sophisticated<br />
international menu of<br />
meticulously composed<br />
fl avours. Opt for the<br />
essential wine pairing<br />
with the six-course<br />
tasting menu for the<br />
full Zatisi experience.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Cafe<br />
Meduza (17 Belgicka) It<br />
may be drawing its fi nal<br />
breath, but Prague’s<br />
winter has been known<br />
to stick around until<br />
March. Cosy Meduza’s<br />
spiced beer and cake will<br />
lift your spirits in no time.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Mecca Club (3 U<br />
Pruhonu) Don your<br />
sparkliest outfi t and grab<br />
a cab to Mecca in Prague<br />
7. This trendy club’s sleek<br />
interior and throbbing<br />
house soundtrack will<br />
turn any weekend into a<br />
glamorous adventure.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP If Prague has<br />
whet your appetite for<br />
Czech cubism, stop by<br />
Kubista. It stocks books,<br />
ceramics, furniture and<br />
jewellery, all devoted<br />
to that unique era (19<br />
Ovocny Trh, kubista.cz).<br />
SEE As one of the<br />
region’s largest fi lm<br />
festivals, Febiofest draws<br />
fi lm-makers from across<br />
the globe keen to present<br />
their work to Prague’s<br />
public. Admission: €3.<br />
From 24 March to 1 April<br />
(febiofest.cz).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Czechs take their beer<br />
seriously, and the<br />
nation’s population<br />
has been crowned<br />
the world’s top beer<br />
consumers per capita,<br />
downing a dizzying 157<br />
litres of brew per annum.<br />
Dana Dramowicz/<br />
prague-life.com<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Pristina<br />
Kosovo<br />
DIALLING CODE +381<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Geneva<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €25.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Liburnia<br />
(Rruga Meto Bajraktar, tel:<br />
382 2271) Here you’ll fi nd<br />
traditional Albanian food<br />
served in a wonderful<br />
Ottoman-era house with<br />
plenty of original details.<br />
Expect plenty of grilled<br />
PRIZEN<br />
FESTIVAL<br />
GO On 22 March go to<br />
Prizren for the Sulltan<br />
Nevruz festival at the<br />
Rufa’i Tekke temple.<br />
On this day dervishes<br />
of the Sufi mystic<br />
tradition, practice<br />
various rituals (Teqja<br />
e Rufaive, 3 Kaçaniku).<br />
meat, fresh salads and<br />
a pleasant garden.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Le<br />
Siam Thai (Rruga<br />
Fehmi Agani, tel: 4524<br />
3588) To the delight of<br />
the many foreigners<br />
working in Pristina, very<br />
decent Thai food can<br />
fi nally be ordered in<br />
Kosovo, albeit at higher<br />
prices than most places.<br />
Better still – it’s a nonsmoking<br />
restaurant.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Fresko<br />
(17 Rruga Fehmi Agani,<br />
tel: 455 97597) A café<br />
that cares about your<br />
health, serving fresh<br />
salads, sandwiches<br />
and fruit juices, healthy<br />
lunches and more.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Hamam Jazz Bar<br />
(Rruga Luan Haradinaj) A<br />
fabulous new addition to<br />
Pristina’s nightlife scene,<br />
Hamam (meaning<br />
“the bathhouse”) has<br />
a dazzling interior, daily<br />
jazz concerts from 10pm<br />
and very good cocktails.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP For everything a<br />
woman wants (besides<br />
diamonds), head to<br />
the Remember Me<br />
gift shop, which sells<br />
excellent quality fl owers<br />
and chocolates. Credit<br />
cards for deliveries<br />
are accepted, too (3–1<br />
Rruga Qamil Hoxha).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Traffi c at Pristina’s<br />
airport has grown<br />
from zero in 1999 to<br />
well over one million<br />
passengers in 2010.<br />
Jeroen van Marle,<br />
inyourpocket.com
Rhodes<br />
Greece<br />
DIALLING CODE +30<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Liverpool, London<br />
(LGW), Milan (MXP)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
Regular buses go<br />
to Rhodes, Ixia and<br />
Ialysos. Tickets: €2.20.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Aspro<br />
Piato (71G Griva Street)<br />
Greek cuisine is served<br />
in a minimalist interior<br />
at this steak house. It’s<br />
ideal for meat lovers and<br />
serves local products<br />
and a selection of wines.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Ammogyali (17 Voriou<br />
Ipirou Street) On the<br />
side of Acropolis Hill,<br />
Ammogyali is one of<br />
the most high-profi le<br />
restaurants in Rhodes.<br />
It boasts a cool, modern<br />
décor and fantastic<br />
international menu.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Koukos<br />
(20–26 Mandilara, tel:<br />
2241 073 022) It started<br />
as a small traditional<br />
Greek café, but Koukos<br />
has evolved into one of<br />
the best places to hang<br />
out on the island. With a<br />
buzzing environment, it’s<br />
a good meeting point.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Angel (Sokratous,<br />
Medieval Town) Angel is<br />
one of the most popular<br />
venues in town, playing<br />
Greek and international<br />
dance music until<br />
the break of dawn.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP The Hellenic<br />
Post Offi ce also<br />
includes a gift shop<br />
with items from Greek<br />
tradition and arts,<br />
stamp collections<br />
and more (Eleftherias<br />
Square, Mandraki).<br />
GO On 7 March there<br />
is the celebration of<br />
the annexation of the<br />
Dodecanese to Greece<br />
and on 25 March it’s the<br />
190th anniversary of<br />
the Greek Revolution.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The fi rst lines of a sonnet<br />
inside the pedestal of<br />
the Statue of Liberty in<br />
New York refer to the<br />
Colossus of Rhodes.<br />
rhodes.com.gr<br />
BEST WESTERN<br />
PLAZA<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
A welcoming and<br />
relaxing hotel in<br />
the centre of Rhodes,<br />
and just 200m<br />
from Elli beach.<br />
Breakfast included.<br />
From €68, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
Rome<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Amsterdam,<br />
Athens, Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Berlin, Bilbao, Bristol,<br />
Crete (Heraklion),<br />
Dubrovnik, Düsseldorf,<br />
Geneva, Ibiza, Lamezia,<br />
Lisbon, London (LGW),<br />
Lyon, Madrid, Majorca,<br />
Malta, Milan (MXP),<br />
Mykonos, Nice, Palermo,<br />
Paris (ORY), Split,<br />
Toulouse, Venice<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
CIAMPINO<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €30.<br />
SIT runs a service<br />
from the airport to<br />
the centre. Tickets: €5<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
FIUMICINO<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €40 in<br />
a City of Rome licensed<br />
cab and €60 in a<br />
Fiumicino municipality<br />
licensed cab.<br />
The Leonardo<br />
Express leaves<br />
the airport for Termini<br />
until 11.30pm. Tickets:<br />
€11. The SIT runs a<br />
service from the city<br />
centre to the airport.<br />
Tickets: €8<br />
Metropolitan FM1<br />
trains go to Roma<br />
Tiburtina until 11.27pm.<br />
Tickets: €5.50 single.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15 Pizzeria<br />
ai Marmi (53 Viale<br />
di Trastevere, tel: 06<br />
580 0919) This is a<br />
local institution, which<br />
has been deservedly<br />
popular for many<br />
years. Dubbed the<br />
obitorio, or morgue,<br />
by locals because of<br />
its long marble tables,<br />
it serves wonderful<br />
pizza plus the usual<br />
range of bruschetta<br />
for starters.<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Al Giardino del<br />
Gatto e la Volpe<br />
(14 Via Buccari, tel:<br />
06 3974 2280) “In<br />
the Cat and the Fox’s<br />
Garden” has to be one<br />
of the most original<br />
restaurant names in<br />
the world and is taken<br />
from the owners’<br />
nicknames. The two<br />
of them serve classical<br />
Roman dishes, such<br />
as caccio cheese<br />
with black pepper<br />
and tripe, in an<br />
extensive garden –<br />
as the name suggests.<br />
UP TO €50<br />
Il Sanpietrino<br />
(15 Piazza Costaguti,<br />
tel: 06 6880 6471)<br />
In a corner of the<br />
old Jewish ghetto,<br />
the Di Mauro family<br />
off ers traditional<br />
Jewish-Roman fare<br />
in an elegant but<br />
friendly environment.<br />
Start with the bean<br />
soup fl avoured with<br />
mussels, or deep-fried<br />
Judaean artichokes,<br />
AGRITURISMO IL PALOMBAIO, AN UNFORGETTABLE HOLIDAY<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 173<br />
then move on to<br />
specialities such<br />
as pennette pasta<br />
and cow’s tail.<br />
Da Gildo (31A Via<br />
della Scala, tel: 06<br />
580 0733) A friendly<br />
and unpretentious<br />
restaurant in lively,<br />
trendy Trastevere,<br />
Da Gildo off ers superb<br />
food. The carciofi<br />
soup, bursting with<br />
artichokes, is superb,<br />
as is the egg and<br />
truffl es – two fried<br />
eggs and lots of<br />
delicious truffl es.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Mirabelle (Hotel<br />
Splendide Royal,<br />
14 Via di Porta<br />
Pinciana, tel: 06 4216<br />
8838) On the seventh<br />
fl oor of a smart hotel,<br />
the Mirabelle is<br />
a lavish, Michelinstarred<br />
restaurant<br />
with a terrace off ering<br />
incredible views over<br />
the city and the Villa<br />
Borghese park. You<br />
can’t go wrong with<br />
the oven-baked rack<br />
of lamb with rosemary,<br />
and the renowned<br />
Settimo Cielo (Seventh<br />
Heaven) dessert –<br />
which really does<br />
live up to its name.<br />
Il Convivio Troiani<br />
(31 Vicolo dei Soldati,<br />
tel: 06 686 9432)<br />
This welcoming<br />
establishment has<br />
three dining rooms,<br />
normally packed with<br />
foreign food lovers.<br />
Angelo Troiani’s<br />
cooking is creative but<br />
essentially Roman.<br />
The hot ricotta fl an<br />
with Tregignano<br />
radish, honey and<br />
parmiggiano fondue<br />
is wonderful, as is the<br />
risotto with cuttlefi sh,<br />
lemon grass and<br />
saff ron sauce.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Circus<br />
(15 Via della Vetrina)<br />
You can dine as well<br />
as drink in this modern<br />
bar and art venue,<br />
a short walk from<br />
Piazza Navona. It has<br />
a dining area at the<br />
front and sofas at<br />
the back and off ers<br />
free Wi-Fi internet<br />
access. The music<br />
is generally jazz.<br />
LIVE MUSIC Casa<br />
del Jazz (55 Viale di<br />
Porta Ardeatina, tel:<br />
06 704 731) Casa<br />
is run by Rome city<br />
council and hosts<br />
performances from<br />
local as well as<br />
internationally famous<br />
jazz artists. It also<br />
gives lots of<br />
space to up-andcoming<br />
musicians.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Alpheus (36 Viale<br />
del Commercio, tel:<br />
06 574 7826) This is<br />
a vast venue off ering<br />
a range of musical<br />
styles, with house<br />
on the big dancefl oor<br />
and techno, world<br />
music, Latin, retro,<br />
rock, hip hop and R’n’B<br />
blasting out elsewhere.<br />
Piper (9 Via<br />
Tagliamento, tel: 06<br />
855 5398) One of<br />
the city’s oldest<br />
discos, this club in<br />
the heart of the<br />
wealthy Parioli quarter<br />
now has state-ofthe-art<br />
sound and<br />
lights, and appeals<br />
to a young and
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Rome<br />
Italy<br />
rather glamorous<br />
crowd. It mainly plays<br />
house and happy<br />
house music.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Adriana is the<br />
place to go for beautiful<br />
women’s shoes. It<br />
off ers everything from<br />
classic to modern,<br />
and has a wide men’s<br />
selection, too. Perfect<br />
for if your soles wear<br />
thin from sightseeing<br />
(59 Via del Babuino, tel:<br />
06 322 7486, adriana<br />
campanile.com).<br />
SEE If you’re a highly<br />
tuned athlete wanting<br />
to burn off a bit too<br />
much pasta, you<br />
could take part in the<br />
17th Rome Marathon<br />
on 20 March,<br />
beginning and ending<br />
at the Colosseum.<br />
On the other hand,<br />
you could just watch<br />
while eating a gelato<br />
and considering pizza<br />
(maratonadiroma.it).<br />
GO Trastevere’s name<br />
translates literally<br />
as “across the Tiber”.<br />
It used to be renowned<br />
for its fi ercely<br />
independent artisans,<br />
but its alleyways<br />
and piazzas are<br />
now a major<br />
tourist destination,<br />
especially in the<br />
evenings and at<br />
weekends. But before<br />
you go for that pizza,<br />
you should really<br />
have a look at the<br />
gorgeous church<br />
of Santa Maria in<br />
Trastevere and its<br />
incredible mosaic.<br />
ESCAPE About 50km<br />
north-east of Rome is<br />
the lush and hilly<br />
olive-dotted area of<br />
Sabina, providing<br />
some of the most<br />
picturesque landscape<br />
in the country. It’s<br />
also home to the<br />
beautiful medieval<br />
Farfa abbey, which<br />
at one time rivalled<br />
the Vatican as the<br />
capital of the<br />
Christian world.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The Colosseum was<br />
the Roman Empire’s<br />
biggest amphitheatre<br />
and is the largest<br />
surviving ancient<br />
Roman structure in<br />
the world. Tickets<br />
and assigned seating<br />
were invented<br />
specifi cally for this<br />
great structure,<br />
so 50,000 people<br />
could make their<br />
way through the 79<br />
entrances and take<br />
their places within<br />
a quarter of an hour.<br />
Alan Goldwater<br />
LONDRA &<br />
CARGILL<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
Just a few steps<br />
from Rome’s famous<br />
Via Veneto, this<br />
traditionally styled<br />
hotel is perfect.<br />
Breakfast included.<br />
From €110, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
Salzburg<br />
Austria<br />
DIALLING CODE +43<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Bristol, Grenoble,<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €15.<br />
Trains run to the<br />
Hauptbahnhof<br />
station. Tickets: €9.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Indigo<br />
(48 Alpenstrasse,<br />
tel: 0662 627 194)<br />
Healthy food is the<br />
key word here:<br />
vegetarian, chicken<br />
or veal curries, sushi,<br />
noodles and salads<br />
are part of the<br />
versatile menu at<br />
this eatery.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Genussprojekt<br />
(3 Forellenweg, tel:<br />
0664 543 9534)<br />
Here’s you’ll fi nd<br />
regional ingredients,<br />
a friendly atmosphere<br />
and a chef who is<br />
happy to spoil you.<br />
Go for the delicious<br />
bull steak or the daily<br />
changing fresh fi sh<br />
specialities – which<br />
are sure to delight.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Flavour<br />
(21 Imbergstrasse,<br />
tel: 0662 872 176) The<br />
fi ne wine card and<br />
refi ned interior give<br />
this bar an aesthetic<br />
air. If you should get<br />
hungry, check out<br />
the delicious pasta<br />
dishes on the menu.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Chez Roland (15<br />
Giselakai, tel: 0662<br />
874 335) The bar is<br />
one of the hot spots<br />
where locals meet on<br />
the weekend to relax<br />
over a cocktail or<br />
a glass of fresh<br />
Styrian Chardonnay.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Founded<br />
in 1850, Schatz<br />
patisserie still off ers<br />
some of the best<br />
tidbits in town. Get<br />
your raspberry<br />
souffl é or chocolate<br />
and poppy seedcake<br />
packed to take away<br />
(3 Getreidegasse,<br />
tel: 0662 842 792).<br />
GO The one street<br />
you must not miss<br />
in Salzburg is the<br />
Getreidegasse.<br />
Narrow, with its<br />
beautiful façades and<br />
many small shops<br />
and cafés, it’s a<br />
picturesque sight, and<br />
worth spending a day<br />
strolling around.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
While walking down<br />
Salzburg’s most<br />
beautiful street,<br />
Getreidegasse, stop<br />
at number 9 and you’ll<br />
fi nd the house where<br />
Mozart was born.<br />
Uros Urosevic<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 175<br />
Sharm El<br />
Sheikh Egypt<br />
DIALLING CODE +20<br />
CURRENCY EGP<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Geneva, London<br />
(LGW, LTN), Manchester<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs EGP120.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Pomodoro (Na’ama<br />
Bay, tel: 069 360<br />
0700) Located in a<br />
prime position, this<br />
trendy bistro off ers an<br />
Italian-infl uenced menu<br />
to suit all tastes. Make<br />
the most of the view<br />
from the terrace while<br />
enjoying homemade<br />
pizza or pasta.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Siam<br />
(Maritim Jolie Ville<br />
Royal Peninsula Hotel<br />
& Resort, tel: 069 360<br />
4200) The delicious<br />
food prepared by the<br />
award-winning head<br />
chef ensures a visit to<br />
this restaurant is well<br />
worth the taxi ride. The<br />
dishes refl ect the best<br />
of Thai royal cuisine,<br />
featuring the sharply<br />
contrasting fl avours<br />
associated with<br />
Far Eastern cooking.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Stella Bar<br />
(Il Mercato, Hadaba)<br />
The décor inspired by<br />
a local beer is a quirky<br />
feature of this bar in the<br />
heart of the Il Mercato<br />
shopping mall. Stop<br />
for an ice-cold one<br />
before hitting the shops.<br />
LATE & LIVELY Little<br />
Buddha (Na’ama Bay<br />
Hotel, tel: 069 360 1030)<br />
The Sharm outfi t of<br />
this world-famous bar<br />
provides a hip venue for<br />
late-night partying. The<br />
candlelit lounge has a<br />
large cocktail bar, and<br />
its funky, elegant décor<br />
provides the perfect<br />
backdrop for a superstylish<br />
night out.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP With branches<br />
in Na’ama Bay and Il<br />
Mercato, Radio Shack<br />
stocks a wide range<br />
of electronic products<br />
including mobile phone<br />
chargers, batteries,<br />
iPods and other gadgets.<br />
Fixed prices and product<br />
warranties are available.<br />
GO Pamper yourself<br />
at the Sheraton Sharm<br />
Thalasso Center, which<br />
specialises in waterinspired<br />
treatments<br />
using purifi ed mineral<br />
salts from the Red Sea.<br />
Choose from a long list<br />
of treatments, including<br />
hydro massage,<br />
hammam therapies<br />
and body wraps<br />
(tel: 069 360 2070).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Sharm El Sheikh<br />
International Airport<br />
serves nearly eight<br />
million people a year.<br />
Penny Orford<br />
PLANNING TO DIVE IN THE RED SEA?<br />
Avoid Rogue Operators
176 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Sofia<br />
Bulgaria<br />
DIALLING CODE +359<br />
CURRENCY Leu (BGN)<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW),<br />
Madrid, Manchester<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs BGN14.<br />
Catch bus 84 or<br />
bus 284. Tickets:<br />
BGN1. The white<br />
marshrutkas van number<br />
30 goes to the centre.<br />
Tickets: BGN1.50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Gara<br />
za Dvama (18 Georgi<br />
Benkovski Ulitza, tel:<br />
989 7675) Based on<br />
the 1982 Soviet fi lm<br />
of the same name,<br />
Gara za Dvama<br />
(“Station for Two”)<br />
was designed to be like<br />
a small train carriage<br />
and off ers Russian<br />
meals and good vodka.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Clock<br />
House (15 Moskovska<br />
Ulitsa, tel: 932 7595)<br />
In a beautifully<br />
restored house<br />
dating back to the<br />
19th century, enjoy<br />
fi ne European and<br />
Bulgarian cuisine in<br />
the enchanting dining<br />
room looking out over<br />
the lush gardens.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Bash<br />
Bar (31 Ivan Asen<br />
II Ulitsa) This small,<br />
deep-red bar is the<br />
new place for trendy<br />
youngsters who<br />
are looking for<br />
the next big thing.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
My Mojito (12 Ivan<br />
Vazov Ulitza) The<br />
ruby-red lights here<br />
hover around the<br />
heads of people of all<br />
ages and attitudes.<br />
There’s a chill-out<br />
room for the laidback<br />
and another for Red<br />
Bull-mixing rockers.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Dar za Gorene<br />
is a little candle shop<br />
where you can fi nd<br />
100% handmade<br />
candles, decorated with<br />
symbols inspired by<br />
Bulgarian folklore and<br />
nature (19 Bulevard<br />
Fridtyof Nansen,<br />
tel: 0888 647 516).<br />
SEE The National<br />
Ballet of Georgia<br />
and the folk ensemble<br />
Suhishvili will be in<br />
Bulgaria for the fi rst<br />
time on 18 March<br />
for a spectacular<br />
performance (National<br />
Palace of Culture, tel:<br />
916 6300).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The inventor of the<br />
air bag and the<br />
answering machine<br />
is the Bulgarian-<br />
American Assen<br />
Jordanoff , who was<br />
born in Sofi a in 1896.<br />
Maya Kozareva<br />
Stockholm<br />
Sweden<br />
DIALLING CODE +46<br />
CURRENCY Krona (SEK)<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Geneva,<br />
Milan (MXP)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs SEK450.<br />
The Arlanda goes<br />
to the city centre.<br />
Tickets: SEK240 single.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Indian Garden (15<br />
Heleneborgsgatan, tel:<br />
08 849 498) This tiny<br />
Indian spot has won<br />
countless prizes and<br />
awards, and it even has<br />
regulars in London who<br />
get their takeaways<br />
delivered by plane.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Museet<br />
(41 Birger Jarlsgatan, tel:<br />
08 201 008) A real tiger<br />
skeleton is part of the<br />
décor but, despite that<br />
and the name, this isn’t a<br />
museum but an upscale<br />
bistro where guests can<br />
enjoy generous portions<br />
of classic Swedish and<br />
French fare, served by<br />
an accommodating<br />
staff . The breast of duck<br />
with coff ee gravy is well<br />
worth the asking price.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Rival<br />
(3 Mariatorget) One<br />
fl ight up inside the Rival<br />
Hotel (owned by Benny<br />
from Abba), you’ll fi nd<br />
this spacious cocktail<br />
bar, draped in plush<br />
red velvet.<br />
LATE & LIVELY Hell’s<br />
Kitchen (4 Sturegatan,<br />
tel: 08 5450 7675) At this<br />
ritzy hedonist paradise,<br />
the cool minimalism<br />
has been abandoned in<br />
favour of an interior that<br />
can only be described as<br />
rampant maximalism.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Brunogallerian<br />
is a stylish mini-mall,<br />
which further cements<br />
Götgatsbacken as one<br />
of Stockholm’s trendiest<br />
strips. Shop for Swedish<br />
labels such as Filippa<br />
K and Whyred, and<br />
brands including Adidas,<br />
American Apparel and<br />
Miss Sixty (36 Götgatan).<br />
SEE The exhibition<br />
Män i baddräkt at<br />
Nordiska Museet – the<br />
title translates as “men<br />
in bathing suits” – is<br />
an interesting (and<br />
hilarious) meditation<br />
on fashion choices<br />
and body ideals<br />
through the times<br />
(6–16 Djurgårdsvägen).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Stockholm syndrome<br />
refers to a psychological<br />
phenomenon in which<br />
hostages feel sympathy<br />
for their captors. The<br />
name refers to a bank<br />
robbery in Stockholm in<br />
1973, during which bank<br />
employees were held<br />
hostage for fi ve days.<br />
Victoria Larsson<br />
Tallinn<br />
Estonia<br />
DIALLING CODE +372<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Liverpool,<br />
London (STN)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs €10.<br />
Route 2 goes<br />
to the centre.<br />
Tickets: €1.60.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Neh<br />
(4 Lootsi, tel: 602 2222)<br />
Palatable Baltic Sea<br />
islands fare – that’s<br />
the cuisine off ered by<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
RESTAURANT<br />
Chedi (1 Sulevimägi,<br />
tel: 646 1676) Asian<br />
gourmet cuisine is<br />
created under the<br />
observant eye of<br />
award-winning British<br />
restaurateur Alan Yau.<br />
All spices are imported<br />
to create great dishes.<br />
the Pädaste Manor<br />
seasonal kitchen in the<br />
heart of Tallinn city. It<br />
comes from afar, but<br />
none of the food loses its<br />
fresher-than-fresh taste.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Café<br />
Josephine (16 Vene,<br />
tel: 641 8291) This<br />
hideaway is the perfect<br />
place for candlelight,<br />
wine and nibbles. Expect<br />
relaxed elegance and<br />
indulgent handmade<br />
chocolates served<br />
alongside gourmet teas.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Cathouse (4–6 Viru)<br />
One of the newest<br />
and sexiest clubs in<br />
town feels like a cross<br />
between a lingerie<br />
catwalk and Studio 54.<br />
Two fl oors with diff erent<br />
dancefl oors and four<br />
bars are sure to appeal.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Estonian<br />
Craftsmen Shop<br />
has a large variety of<br />
authentic Estonian<br />
handicrafts sold by the<br />
craftsmen themselves,<br />
so you can support the<br />
local traders (23 Viru).<br />
SEE Tallinn Music Week<br />
features concerts by<br />
dozens of established<br />
and up-and-coming<br />
bands showcasing their<br />
talent in this music<br />
networking event.<br />
From 24–26 March<br />
(tallinnmusicweek.ee).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
There’s no excuse for<br />
not keeping in touch<br />
with family back home<br />
– there are 352 wireless<br />
internet areas in Tallinn.<br />
Ain Hinsberg
Tangier<br />
Morocco<br />
DIALLING CODE +212<br />
CURRENCY MAD<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Madrid, Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs MAD100.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 La<br />
Fuga Pizzeria (7 Rue<br />
Casablanca Resid.<br />
Assourour II, tel: 0539<br />
331 066) This Italian<br />
restaurant is good for<br />
family dining and safe<br />
for sensitive stomachs,<br />
or those tired of tagine.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Les<br />
Passagers de Tanger<br />
(Grand Socco) On<br />
this rooftop terrace<br />
overlooking the centre<br />
of the Old Town, you<br />
can choose from a<br />
constantly changing<br />
menu that off ers a wide<br />
selection of fi sh or meat<br />
carpaccio and foreign<br />
and local wines.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Cinémathèque de<br />
Tanger (Place du 9 Avril,<br />
Grand Socco, tel: 0539<br />
934 683) A popular<br />
hangout for artists and<br />
students. Head inside to<br />
mingle over a strawberry<br />
juice or take in a fi lm, or<br />
sit outside and watch life<br />
on the Grand Socco.<br />
LATE & LIVELY Snob<br />
(Boulevard Mohammed<br />
VI) Recently refurbished,<br />
Snob reclaims its<br />
position as one of the<br />
best house music clubs<br />
on the beachfront. The<br />
action starts at 1am.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP La Maison Eric<br />
Kayser is without doubt<br />
the best bakery in town.<br />
This artisan bakery is<br />
a must if you’re after<br />
genuine French pastries<br />
or local specialities<br />
(Rue les Amoureux,<br />
tel: 0539 331 683).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
French geologist<br />
Jacques Collina-Girard<br />
has suggested that<br />
the legendary lost city<br />
of Atlantis lies midchannel<br />
in the Straits of<br />
Gibraltar, about 19km<br />
north of Tangier.<br />
Aman te Water<br />
ANCIENT<br />
LIXUS<br />
GO Visit the Roman<br />
town of Lixus and<br />
enjoy a drive through<br />
the countryside.<br />
Situated overlooking<br />
the mouth of the<br />
Loukos River, near the<br />
Larache port, it’s a<br />
perfect family day out.<br />
Tel Aviv<br />
Israel<br />
DIALLING CODE +972<br />
CURRENCY ILS<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Geneva, London (LTN)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
around ILS120.<br />
Trains go to the<br />
Central and<br />
HaShalom stations.<br />
Tickets: ILS13.50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Buddha<br />
Burgers (21 Yehuda<br />
HaLevy, tel: 03 510<br />
1333) Munch away on<br />
some inexpensive vegan<br />
cuisine, such as a lentil<br />
patty or hummus with<br />
Indian-style tomato<br />
sauce at this superhealthy<br />
eatery.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Catit<br />
(4 Heichal Hatalmud,<br />
tel: 03 510 7001)<br />
Try some incredibly<br />
inventive and artistically<br />
presented dishes at<br />
this restaurant, such<br />
as warm foie gras with<br />
caramelised apples<br />
or lamb brain with<br />
parmesan and grilled<br />
fennel. Expect a mix of<br />
French, Mediterranean<br />
and North Africaninspired<br />
cuisine.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Satchmo<br />
(6 Vital Street, tel: 05<br />
2328 4800) Listen to<br />
a selection of diff erent<br />
styles of music, from<br />
rock to jazz, as you drink<br />
your glass of whisky.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Dome (3 Hazfi ra Street)<br />
Have a wild time on the<br />
city’s largest dancefl oor.<br />
Students can let their<br />
hair down at special<br />
parties on Friday nights.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP At Olia boutique<br />
you can sample the<br />
various types of<br />
fruity and bitter olive<br />
products from Israel<br />
and diff erent parts of<br />
the Mediterranean. The<br />
organic home blend of<br />
extra virgin olive oil is<br />
wonderful accompanied<br />
with some goat’s cheese<br />
or a simple salad<br />
(73 Frishman Street,<br />
tel: 03 522 3235).<br />
SEE Feast your eyes<br />
on glistening gems at<br />
the Harry Oppenheimer<br />
Diamond Museum<br />
as it celebrates its<br />
70th anniversary. You’ll<br />
be able to discover<br />
how diamonds<br />
are found, cut and<br />
polished at the recently<br />
renovated institution<br />
(1 Jabotinsky Street,<br />
tel: 03 576 0219).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The Israeli architect<br />
Ron Arad is currently<br />
working on developing<br />
a new luxury apartment<br />
building on Ha-Yarkon<br />
Street in Tel Aviv. He<br />
also designed the Tel<br />
Aviv Opera House.<br />
Kimberley Chen<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 177<br />
Tenerife<br />
South Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Bristol, London<br />
(LGW), Manchester<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
A local taxi costs<br />
around €25.<br />
Route 111 stops at<br />
Las Americas and<br />
Santa Cruz. Tickets: €3.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Oasis<br />
(5 Calle Grande, tel:<br />
922 780 827) Garlic<br />
lovers will adore this<br />
aff ectionately named<br />
chicken shack,<br />
which serves garlic<br />
chicken and Canarian<br />
potatoes all year round.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
La Estancia (Calle<br />
Armiche, Urbanización<br />
Las Aguilas del Teide,<br />
Chayofa, tel: 922 729<br />
359) Infl uenced by<br />
French-Mediterranean<br />
cuisine, this elegant<br />
establishment serves<br />
exotic meats and<br />
fi sh from wood-fi red<br />
barbecues. Golfers<br />
with a green fee card<br />
receive a 10% discount,<br />
giving you more<br />
incentive than ever to<br />
stop at this top joint.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Bar<br />
Nuestro (12 Calle San<br />
Roque) For a taste of<br />
Canarian culture, this<br />
authentic bar with its<br />
farm-style interior off ers<br />
a perfect way to mix with<br />
the locals while trying<br />
some local snacks such<br />
as grilled sardines.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Bobby’s (4 Veronicas,<br />
Playa de Las Americas)<br />
Made famous by the<br />
reality TV show Tenerife<br />
Uncovered, clubbers<br />
come to Bobby’s to<br />
enjoy dance music<br />
into the early hours<br />
in the heart of the<br />
island’s clubland.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP The Gran<br />
Sur shopping centre<br />
near Torviscas is a<br />
one-stop shop for<br />
all your retail needs,<br />
selling everything from<br />
clothing to food. It also<br />
houses a seven-screen<br />
cinema, which shows<br />
blockbuster fi lms.<br />
GO Take a trip to the<br />
historic and beautiful<br />
town of Candelaría<br />
to view fi rst-hand the<br />
famous basilica and the<br />
Black Madonna – one<br />
of Tenerife’s biggest<br />
tourist attractions.<br />
By bus, the journey<br />
via Santa Cruz takes<br />
around an hour.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
It may not be a large<br />
island, but Tenerife is<br />
home to an impressive<br />
141 nature reserves,<br />
the largest being<br />
the spectacular<br />
Cañadas del Teide.<br />
Natasha Laming
178 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Thessaloniki<br />
Greece<br />
DIALLING CODE +30<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Berlin, Dortmund, London<br />
(LGW), Milan (MXP)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
Route 78 goes to<br />
the city centre.<br />
Tickets: €0.50.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Apo Dyo<br />
Horia (7 Vyronos, tel:<br />
2310 269 204) Come<br />
here for authentic<br />
recipes from Crete<br />
and the Black Sea<br />
region, refl ecting the<br />
restaurant’s name,<br />
which means “from<br />
two villages”. The lamb<br />
kleftiko is a guranteed<br />
winner. Wash it down<br />
with excellent Cretan<br />
raki or organic wine.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
I Kanoula (8 Raktivan,<br />
tel: 2310 222 185) If<br />
you’re a fan of organic<br />
food, friendly I Kanoula<br />
has a wide range of<br />
healthy dishes on the<br />
menu, many of them<br />
meat-free such as the<br />
delicious yigantes (giant<br />
beans) in tomato sauce,<br />
as well as excellent<br />
homemade wine.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Spirto (33<br />
Pavlou Mela, tel: 2310<br />
222 207) Meaning<br />
“match”, the smoking<br />
ban has not deterred<br />
the youngsters from<br />
crowding into this<br />
intimate café, which<br />
projects animations<br />
on a large screen.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Partizan (29 Valioritou,<br />
tel: 2310 543 461)<br />
Now established as a<br />
fi rm favourite with the<br />
hip crowd, with sleek<br />
modern furnishings and<br />
state-of-the-art lighting,<br />
this bar hosts cuttingedge<br />
trance, acid house,<br />
dance bands and DJs.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Arktos Art in<br />
the shopping district<br />
of Kalamaria is a fi ne<br />
place. It has a range<br />
of Greek handicrafts,<br />
from traditional<br />
shadow puppets to<br />
glass ornaments and<br />
ceramics (98 Pasalidi).<br />
SEE Greece’s largest<br />
celebration of factual<br />
fi lm-making, the<br />
annual Thessaloniki<br />
Documentary Film<br />
Festival, takes place<br />
this year in the<br />
Olympion Cinema<br />
from 11–20 March.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Platia Dimokratias,<br />
known to locals as Platia<br />
Vardari, was christened<br />
Piccadilly Circus by<br />
British soldiers stationed<br />
here during World War I.<br />
Nick Edwards<br />
Toulouse<br />
France<br />
DIALLING CODE +33<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Bristol, Geneva,<br />
London (LGW), Lisbon,<br />
Lyon, Madrid, Milan<br />
(MXP), Nantes, Paris<br />
(CDG, ORY), Rome (FCO)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €30.<br />
The Toulouse-<br />
Blagnac Navette<br />
goes to the city centre.<br />
Tickets: €6 return.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Le Pere<br />
Leon (2 Place Esquirol,<br />
tel: 05 6123 9095)<br />
This well-loved bustling<br />
brasserie serves<br />
wonderful cassoulet at<br />
lunchtime. There are also<br />
lots of dishes featuring<br />
duck and potatoes, as<br />
well as the usual salads,<br />
steaks and pizzas.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Le<br />
Palladia (241 Avenue<br />
de Grande-Bretagne, tel:<br />
05 6212 0130) Elegant<br />
and refi ned, this modern<br />
restaurant serves a<br />
menu to match the<br />
décor – fresh, modern,<br />
fashionable and with<br />
a slightly quirky twist.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Le Divino<br />
(11 Rue des Briquetiers,<br />
Blagnac, tel: 05 3439<br />
9016) Monochrome<br />
and very trendy, this<br />
lounge bar does a bit<br />
of everything. A great<br />
place for a drink after<br />
work, and the ocassional<br />
themed evenings<br />
(Oriental or jazz nights)<br />
are worth staying on for.<br />
LATE & LIVELY Los<br />
Piquillos (90 Route de<br />
Blagnac, tel: 05 6157<br />
0057) A great place for<br />
a celebration. Indoors<br />
it’s warm and noisy<br />
with laughter, while the<br />
stunning terrace is<br />
a great place to taste<br />
the fi rst warm spring<br />
air. Tapas, sangria,<br />
Latino music and<br />
fi esta ambience.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Habiague sells<br />
all the top brands in<br />
kitchen accessories<br />
and utensils, as well as<br />
a range of gadgets you<br />
won’t fi nd elsewhere...<br />
including a wolf’s teeth<br />
jelly mould (44 Rue<br />
d’Alsace-Lorraine,<br />
tel: 05 6121 5661).<br />
SEE The Festival du<br />
Printemps du Rire runs<br />
from 14–26 March<br />
and there are comedy<br />
events of all types in<br />
venues across town<br />
(printempsdurire.com).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Local tradition<br />
maintains that Queen<br />
Brunehaut, the sixthcentury<br />
ruler of the<br />
Visigoths, founded<br />
the nearby 12th-century<br />
village of Bruniquel.<br />
Samantha David<br />
Valencia<br />
Spain<br />
DIALLING CODE +34<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €16.<br />
Metro lines run<br />
to the city centre.<br />
Tickets: €1.90<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 La<br />
Galeria (38 Calle<br />
Baja, tel: 963 154 494)<br />
With live fl amenco<br />
on Wednesdays and<br />
beer with tapas for an<br />
LAS FALLAS<br />
FIESTA<br />
SEE A unique threeweek<br />
fi esta of earblowing<br />
fi recrackers<br />
and huge satirical<br />
statues takes place<br />
from 16–19 March.<br />
More than 700 fallas<br />
are created, which are<br />
then ritually burned.<br />
> E-Mobility Management<br />
> Corporate Responsibility & Business Ethics<br />
> General Management - Danube MBA<br />
Information: Danube Business School, Dr. in Andrea Höltl<br />
E-Mail: andrea.hoeltl@donau-uni.ac.at, Phone: +43 (0)2732 893-2123<br />
astonishing €1.50, this<br />
bar in the El Carmen area<br />
is popular with everyone.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Seu Xera<br />
(4 Conde de Almodovar,<br />
tel: 963 924 000) This<br />
fabulous restaurant<br />
off ers something for all<br />
tastes. It cleverly mixes<br />
superb set menus with<br />
an à la carte menu<br />
off ering delicacies<br />
such as octopus with<br />
purple potatoes or<br />
Burmese-style pig.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY After Work<br />
Pulpo Bar (9 Calle<br />
Murillo) Here you’ll fi nd<br />
menus del día, tapas and<br />
drinks. A small restaurant<br />
area in the front and<br />
low-seated chairs and<br />
cushions through the<br />
back complement great<br />
1960s–1990s sounds.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
La 3 (2 Calle del Padre<br />
Porta) The dancefl oor<br />
here moves every time<br />
the doors open and the<br />
music starts. It’s open<br />
Fridays and Saturdays<br />
until very late.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Mercado Ruzafa<br />
isn’t as famous as the<br />
bigger Mercado Central<br />
in the city centre, but<br />
it’s still well worth a visit.<br />
Cheese, hams and fresh<br />
local specialities are ideal<br />
for picnics and for gifts to<br />
take home (Carrera de la<br />
Fuente San Luis).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Spain is famous for its<br />
paella, but few people<br />
know that Valencia is<br />
the culinary cradle of<br />
the ricey creation.<br />
Andy McNicoll<br />
D<br />
N<br />
O<br />
K R E<br />
A<br />
U<br />
M S<br />
www.mba.krems.at<br />
UNIVERSITAT
Venice<br />
Italy<br />
DIALLING CODE +39<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Basel-Mulhouse,<br />
Berlin, Ibiza, London<br />
(LGW), Lyon, Madrid,<br />
Naples, Paris (CDG, ORY),<br />
Rome (FCO)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €30.<br />
The ACTV yellow<br />
bus 5 runs to<br />
Piazzale Roma. Tickets:<br />
€2.50 single.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €15<br />
Ristorante Diana<br />
(2519 Fondamenta<br />
Misericordia,<br />
Cannaregio, tel: 041<br />
715 977) A good choice<br />
for a decent, traditional<br />
meal that doesn’t cost<br />
the earth, in a pleasant<br />
canal-side location.<br />
The menu features<br />
a wide range of fi sh and<br />
meat specialities.<br />
UP TO €30 Al<br />
Mascaron (5225 Calle<br />
Longa Santa Maria<br />
Formosa, Castello, tel:<br />
041 522 5995) There’s a<br />
great atmosphere in this<br />
historic hostelry, which is<br />
much frequented by the<br />
locals. Beamed ceilings<br />
and chunky wooden<br />
tables characterise the<br />
décor, while the menu<br />
is a roll-call of classic<br />
Venetian recipes.<br />
UP TO €50 Osteria<br />
La Zucca (1762 Calle<br />
del Tentor, Santa<br />
Croce, tel: 041 524<br />
1570) This charming<br />
Mediterranean-style<br />
place serves some<br />
inspired vegetarian<br />
dishes, but there’s plenty<br />
for hardened carnivores<br />
too. Herbs and spices<br />
abound, including the<br />
homemade desserts<br />
– try the spicy red wine<br />
and raspberry tart.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Al Gatto<br />
Nero (88 Via Giudecca,<br />
Burano, tel: 041 730<br />
120) Excellent Venetian<br />
specialities and a good<br />
wine list – plus a lovely,<br />
peaceful position on<br />
Burano – make a meal<br />
here one to be savoured.<br />
Start with fresh fi sh and<br />
round off your meal with<br />
some of the island’s<br />
buranelli biscuits.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Caff è<br />
Florian (56–59 Piazza<br />
San Marco, San Marco,<br />
tel: 041 520 5641) Be<br />
transported back in time<br />
at this famous – and<br />
costly – café, which has<br />
welcomed numerous<br />
illustrious clients since<br />
it opened in 1720. The<br />
classic piano and string<br />
ensembles add to the<br />
unique atmosphere.<br />
LIVE MUSIC Caff è<br />
Rosso (2963 Campo<br />
Santa Margherita,<br />
Dorsoduro, tel: 041 528<br />
7998) A great place for<br />
watching the comings<br />
and goings of Campo<br />
Santa Margherita, this<br />
lively bar holds frequent<br />
concerts. Come back<br />
in the morning for a<br />
frothy cappuccino and a<br />
glimpse of the square’s<br />
daytime persona.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Taverna l’Olandese<br />
Volante (5658 Campo<br />
San Lio, Castello, tel: 041<br />
528 9349) The “Flying<br />
Dutchman” may not be<br />
a traditional Venetian<br />
tavern, but the largely<br />
international clientèle<br />
appreciates the beer<br />
and snacks served in<br />
a fun, contemporary<br />
environment.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Highly skilled<br />
glass engraver Luigi<br />
Camozzo doesn’t limit<br />
himself to standard<br />
methods and designs<br />
– he’s forever trying<br />
new techniques. Pop in<br />
to watch him work and<br />
treat yourself to one of<br />
his beautiful creations<br />
(3 Fondamenta Venier,<br />
tel: 041 736 875).<br />
ROYAL SAN<br />
MARCO<br />
★ ★ ★ ★ ★<br />
The grand hotel lies<br />
off St Mark’s Square.<br />
Such a superb location<br />
combined with the<br />
Venetian interiors<br />
make a magical stay.<br />
From €95, book at<br />
hotels.easyJet.com.<br />
SEE Catch the small<br />
exhibition dedicated to<br />
Dutch artist Hieronymus<br />
Bosch (1450–1516).<br />
Thanks to his surrealist,<br />
fantasy themes, he’s<br />
sometimes considered<br />
a forerunner of Salvador<br />
Dalì. Until 20 March<br />
(Palazzo Grimani, 4858<br />
Ramo Grimani, Castello,<br />
tel: 041 241 1507).<br />
GO Night and day,<br />
the area around the<br />
historic Rialto fi sh and<br />
produce market is<br />
one of Venice’s most<br />
animated. Come in the<br />
morning to see stalls<br />
selling the day’s catch<br />
and plenty of juicy local<br />
fruit and veg, and stay<br />
late to relax at some of<br />
the city’s best bars.<br />
ESCAPE Take the train<br />
to Vicenza (45 minutes)<br />
and be inspired by<br />
the Renaissance<br />
architecture, mostly<br />
designed by Andrea<br />
Palladio. Feast your eyes<br />
on the elegant columns<br />
and sweeping lines of<br />
the centre’s palazzi,<br />
and don’t miss the<br />
landmark dome of<br />
the hilltop La Rotonda.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
In the days of the<br />
Venetian Republic,<br />
strong links with the<br />
Middle East brought<br />
much to Venice,<br />
including silk and spices<br />
– fundamental to many<br />
gastronomic specialities.<br />
Even the globally famous<br />
tradition of glass-making<br />
was learnt from Arab<br />
countries. To return the<br />
favour, in 1537 Venice<br />
produced the world’s<br />
fi rst printed Koran.<br />
Sarah Lane<br />
DESTINATION GUIDES | 179<br />
Vienna<br />
Austria<br />
DIALLING CODE +43<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €30.<br />
The CAT train<br />
goes to the centre.<br />
Tickets: €9 single.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Zum<br />
Schwarzen Kameel (5<br />
Bognergasse, tel: 01 533<br />
8125) Eat cheaply but in<br />
aristocratic style at this<br />
longstanding haunt. Tuck<br />
into daintily prepared<br />
sandwiches. Beethoven<br />
is said to have been a<br />
former customer.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Vestibül<br />
(2 Dr Karl Lueger-<br />
Ring, tel: 01 532<br />
4999) If Midge Ure<br />
wanted to reshoot his<br />
video for Vienna, this<br />
opulent venue would<br />
fi t the bill. Housed<br />
in the sumptuous<br />
Burgtheater, this swish<br />
restaurant is a favourite<br />
with opera-goers.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY MAK-Café<br />
(5 Stubenring, tel: 01<br />
714 0121) A super-suave<br />
bar housed in the slick<br />
Museum of Applied<br />
Arts. The waiters can<br />
advise on the best local<br />
Sekt (sparkling wine),<br />
while there’s food on<br />
hand for the famished.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Passage (Corner<br />
of Burgring &<br />
Babenbergasse, tel: 01<br />
961 8800) The Inner<br />
City is notably short on<br />
beatboxes, but Passage,<br />
which occupies a former<br />
pedestrian pass on<br />
the western fringe,<br />
ticks all the boxes for<br />
those in search of<br />
late-night revelry.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP A charming<br />
chocolate shop with<br />
a contemporary slant,<br />
Schokov is the perfect<br />
place to pick up some<br />
souvenirs of the edible<br />
variety. Find it in the<br />
hip Spittelberg district<br />
(20 Siebensterngasse).<br />
SEE Head over to the<br />
Albertina to savour<br />
Roy Lichtenstein’s<br />
drawings from the<br />
1960s. You can check<br />
out the works of the<br />
pop art star throughout<br />
March (1 Albertinaplatz,<br />
albertina.at).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
In 1948, director Carol<br />
Reed discovered zither<br />
player Anton Karas in<br />
a Viennese wine<br />
tavern. Having been<br />
hired to create the<br />
soundtrack for<br />
classic movie The Third<br />
Man, Karas became<br />
a global sensation.<br />
Nick Hodge/<br />
vienna-life.com
180 | DESTINATION GUIDES<br />
Zagreb<br />
Croatia<br />
DIALLING CODE +385<br />
CURRENCY Kuna (HRK)<br />
FLY FROM<br />
Dortmund, London<br />
(LGW), Paris (CDG)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs HRK200.<br />
The airport bus<br />
runs to the city<br />
centre. Tickets: HRK30<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30<br />
Gostionica Purger<br />
(23 Petrinjska, tel: 01<br />
481 0713) If you want to<br />
experience old-school<br />
Zagreb dining, this is the<br />
place. Fill up on meat<br />
or fi sh dishes without<br />
breaking the bank.<br />
EXCLUSIVE<br />
Zinfandel’s Restaurant<br />
(1 Mihanoviceva, tel: 01<br />
456 6644) As smooth as<br />
they come, Zinfandel’s is<br />
at the very top of Zagreb<br />
dining. Recline in the<br />
palatial surrounds of the<br />
city’s most luxurious<br />
hotel, the Esplanade,<br />
and enjoy seriously<br />
good cooking and<br />
some great wines, too.<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Kota<br />
(20 Meduliceva) Come<br />
over all cultural at this<br />
wine bar-bookstore and<br />
start to appreciate<br />
what amazing wines<br />
Croatia produces.<br />
With production so<br />
small and domestic<br />
consumption so high,<br />
few make it abroad.<br />
LATE & LIVELY KSET<br />
(3 Unska, tel: 01 612<br />
9758) This quite brilliant<br />
club and live music<br />
venue boasts everything<br />
from international DJs,<br />
through to low-fi electro<br />
stars and indie hopefuls<br />
playing live. King<br />
of the underground.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP Hip talent Ana<br />
Marija Krkic Visnjic has<br />
for years been conjuring<br />
up fashion that has<br />
gone down a storm<br />
on catwalks abroad<br />
(19 Gunduliceva,<br />
amarie-fashion.com).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The Daily Telegraph has<br />
trumpeted the Croatian<br />
capital as one of the<br />
world’s coolest “new”<br />
destinations in <strong>2011</strong>.<br />
robinmckelvie.com<br />
FERNKORN<br />
FOUNTAIN<br />
GO Kaptol is home<br />
to the city’s landmark<br />
cathedral and<br />
Fernkorn’s gleaming<br />
gold fountain outside.<br />
There are some<br />
good cafés, bars<br />
and restaurants<br />
to relax in, too.<br />
Zante<br />
Greece<br />
DIALLING CODE +30<br />
CURRENCY €<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW)<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com.<br />
A local taxi costs €20.<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 To<br />
Agnandi (Lithakia,<br />
tel: 26950 45712)<br />
The name means<br />
“high place” and this<br />
pleasant mountainside<br />
taverna off ers superb<br />
views across Laganas<br />
Bay, as well as hearty<br />
traditional meals,<br />
from succulent<br />
grills to fresh salads.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Komis<br />
(Bastouni tou Agiou,<br />
Zante Town, tel: 26950<br />
26915) If you can<br />
splash the cash while<br />
you’re away, this is the<br />
place to come. Located<br />
near the main dock<br />
and decorated with<br />
marine paraphenalia,<br />
here you can order<br />
superb fresh fi sh and<br />
seafood – a good<br />
choice is the mydia<br />
saganaki (mussels<br />
fried with tomato<br />
and cheese).<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY Paseo<br />
Cafe (28 Laskareos,<br />
Zante Town, tel: 26950<br />
42828) Here you’re<br />
likely to get a welcome<br />
as warm as the colours<br />
with which this relaxing<br />
town café is decorated.<br />
A range of coff ees,<br />
drinks, cakes and<br />
snacks are available.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Zeros Club (Main Road,<br />
Laganas) Zeros has<br />
grown over its 20 years<br />
into one of the slickest<br />
resort nightclubs<br />
in Greece, with<br />
fi rebreathing and all<br />
sorts of antics alongside<br />
the unrelenting disco<br />
beats. Happy hour deals<br />
lure revellers.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP As most of the<br />
resorts aren’t fully open<br />
at this time of year, the<br />
best area for shopping<br />
is pedestrianised<br />
Alexandrou Roma<br />
Street in Zante<br />
Town, which has a<br />
reasonable choice of<br />
fashion, jewellery and<br />
souvenir shops.<br />
GO The suburb of<br />
Bohali, which perches<br />
2km above Zante Town,<br />
off ers an interesting<br />
combination of cafés, a<br />
picturesque church and<br />
the peaceful ruins of a<br />
huge Venetian fortress.<br />
Best of all is the sweeping<br />
panoramic views.<br />
NO WAY!<br />
The famous poet and<br />
writer of the Greek<br />
national anthem,<br />
Dionysios Solomos, was<br />
born on Zante.<br />
Nick Edwards<br />
Zürich<br />
Switzerland<br />
DIALLING CODE +41<br />
CURRENCY CHF<br />
FLY FROM<br />
London (LGW,<br />
LTN), Manchester<br />
FROM THE<br />
AIRPORT<br />
TAXI<br />
Pre-book your taxi<br />
at easyJet.com. A<br />
local taxi costs CHF60.<br />
Trains make the<br />
journey to the city<br />
centre every 15 minutes.<br />
Tickets: CHF6.20<br />
Visit the Europcar<br />
desk for special<br />
easyJet rates.<br />
BON APPETIT<br />
UP TO €30 Swiss<br />
Chuchi (10 Rosengasse,<br />
tel: 044 266 9696)<br />
Located in Hotel Adler,<br />
this traditional, cosy<br />
Swiss chalet-style<br />
restaurant serves local<br />
specialities such<br />
as raclette potatoes.<br />
EXCLUSIVE Widder<br />
Hotel (7 Rennweg, tel:<br />
044 224 2526) This<br />
luxury hotel inhabits<br />
eight historic houses<br />
and has a surprisingly<br />
innovative restaurant.<br />
It’s the perfect place<br />
for a modern take on a<br />
traditional Swiss supper,<br />
and is famous for jazz<br />
evenings in the deluxe<br />
bar every week, which<br />
make for a perfect<br />
post-dinner drink.<br />
Your apartment in LAAX, Switzerland<br />
AFTER DARK<br />
LOW KEY<br />
Sonnenberg (15<br />
Hitzigweg, tel: 044 266<br />
9797) Enjoy stunning<br />
views over Lake Zürich<br />
with afternoon coff ee<br />
and cakes or evening<br />
cocktails served by<br />
white-gloved waiters<br />
in this elegant bar.<br />
LATE & LIVELY<br />
Jade (25<br />
Brandschenkestrasse,<br />
tel: 044 202 8002)<br />
This ultra-chic and cool<br />
nightclub-restaurant has<br />
fast become Zürich’s<br />
most glamorous spot.<br />
The well-dressed crowd<br />
know how to party to the<br />
house soundtrack.<br />
THIS MONTH<br />
SHOP At Movie Art<br />
you’ll fi nd a large<br />
collection of rare<br />
postcards, posters,<br />
autographed photos<br />
and fi lm memorabilia,<br />
such as collectible toys<br />
and limited edition<br />
sets. You can buy Star<br />
Wars lasers and full-size<br />
model fi gures such as<br />
The Joker from Batman<br />
(17 Walchestrasse,<br />
movieart.ch).<br />
SEE Expovina<br />
Primavera, the spring<br />
wine fair that takes<br />
place from 17–29<br />
March, features wines<br />
from around the world<br />
that can be tasted under<br />
the expert guidance<br />
of renowned wine<br />
merchants (expovinaprimavera.ch).<br />
NO WAY!<br />
Zürich has the highest<br />
density of nightclubs<br />
in Switzerland.<br />
Celeste Neill<br />
rocksresort is a modern ski resort development situated at the base station of LAAX, with<br />
2-bedroom and 4-bedroom apartments for sale. Outstanding architecture, comprehensive<br />
owner services and a concept that guarantees rental income; all part of what makes rocksresort<br />
a unique investment. Contact us to find out more about this exciting opportunity.<br />
+41 (0)81 927 99 00, info@rocksresort.com, www.rocksresort.com
Real Estate - Immobilier<br />
Switzerland<br />
For your future property<br />
in Gstaad Valley & Swiss Prealps<br />
+41 (0) 26 925 10 00<br />
info@cfimmobilier.ch<br />
www.cfimmobilier.ch<br />
© Agence Synapses Bulle<br />
THE ULTIMATE IN LUXURY<br />
SURPRISINGLY AFFORDABLE<br />
A hotel of distinction, of glamour, of style, of tradition.<br />
Beautifully designed rooms with the delicate combination<br />
of art deco heritage and contemporary touches. A long<br />
history of first class service, spectacular facilities and<br />
amazing food. But at a price you can afford. Book online<br />
at www.theregentzagreb.com<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Photo by: Hrvoje Serdar
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PHOTO © GUIDO CASTAGNOLI | INTERVIEW KIMBERLEY CHEN<br />
10<br />
PAGES OF<br />
NEWS AND<br />
UPDATES<br />
FROM<br />
Behind the Scenes<br />
Italian cabin crew Maria Abrate on keeping her passengers entertained<br />
WORKING IN THIS JOB has made me<br />
realise how easy travelling is. Anyone can<br />
fl y from somewhere like Milan to Barcelona<br />
during the day, and go home again in<br />
the evening. But then maybe I would say<br />
that, as I fl y more than most people! I’m<br />
usually in the air somewhere between 18<br />
and 20 days a month. I don’t have a set<br />
schedule – if it’s an early shift, I could start<br />
at 5am or 6am and, depending on the<br />
route, fi nish anywhere between 2pm and<br />
5pm. I love the variety of the job – every<br />
day is diff erent. You meet so many people,<br />
all from diff erent countries, and all with<br />
diff erent attitudes. I know whenever<br />
I greet our passengers as they board the<br />
plane that the day isn’t going to be boring.<br />
You think you’ve seen everything and<br />
then something completely unexpected<br />
happens! I couldn’t go back to having an<br />
offi ce job – my job gives me such a thrill.<br />
There are so many diff erent dynamics<br />
when you’re fl ying, and you don’t get the<br />
same feeling working in an offi ce. I get such<br />
an adrenaline buzz that even after I’ve<br />
fi nished work, I still feel energised.<br />
My colleagues and I are such a great<br />
team, and we’re always trying to think of<br />
new ways to entertain our passengers. One<br />
of the more unusual things that happened<br />
on a fl ight was when we had a stag party<br />
onboard. They asked my colleagues and<br />
NEWS | OUR PEOPLE<br />
I to sing something in the middle of the<br />
aisle in front of all the other passengers.<br />
We went for it and sang the theme tune<br />
from the fi lm 9½ Weeks!<br />
One of the biggest perks of my job is,<br />
of course, the travel. I’ve been to so many<br />
fantastic destinations it’s hard to choose<br />
my favourite, but I love Barcelona with<br />
its tapas restaurants, electric nightlife,<br />
fascinating history and culture. I’ve been<br />
to many easyJet destinations, but there<br />
are still more that I want to see. I’ve been<br />
working at easyJet for four years now, and<br />
I’m proud to say I feel like I’m part of a very<br />
special family. I want to stay working for<br />
this company for as long as possible.<br />
MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 183
CUSTOMER | CARE<br />
Great Customer Service<br />
At easyJet we want you to have<br />
a great experience onboard.<br />
We receive lots of feedback<br />
from you, our customers, and<br />
we really appreciate everything<br />
you tell us.<br />
It’s really important for us<br />
to know which of our pilots<br />
and cabin crew give really<br />
great customer service. That’s<br />
why we created the Spirit<br />
Awards – a programme that<br />
allows us to recognise our<br />
people for the great service<br />
you receive.<br />
Please let us know which of<br />
our crew members have shown<br />
their “orange spirit” by logging<br />
on to spirit.easyJet.com. We<br />
Our customer<br />
experience team is<br />
available to help you.<br />
They are open 8am –<br />
8pm Monday to<br />
Friday and 9am –<br />
5pm Saturday<br />
184 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />
really value your help! You’ll<br />
fi nd further details of how<br />
to get in touch with us in<br />
the yellow box below.<br />
We Need<br />
Your Help!<br />
Think any of our people<br />
have the orange spirit? Then<br />
let us know!<br />
• Find out the name of the<br />
cabin crew member or pilot<br />
• Log on to spirit.easyjet.com<br />
and vote for them, giving<br />
your fl ight details, name,<br />
and email address<br />
It’s as simple as that!<br />
Say “THANK YOU” and<br />
share the orange spirit!<br />
How to Contact Us easyJet.custhelp.com<br />
and Sunday<br />
(local times).*<br />
0871 244 2366<br />
0826 103 320<br />
899 234 589<br />
902 599 900<br />
01805 029 292<br />
0900 000 258<br />
0900 265 8020<br />
0703 203 025<br />
0900 000206<br />
Rest of the world<br />
+44 871 244 2366<br />
Wir brauchen<br />
Ihre Hilfe!<br />
Denken Sie, dass unsere<br />
Mitarbeiter den orangen<br />
Spirit haben? Dann lassen<br />
Sie uns das wissen!<br />
• Finden Sie den Namen des<br />
betreffenden Kabinenpersonals<br />
oder Piloten heraus<br />
• Gehen Sie ins Internet auf<br />
die Webseite spirit.easyjet.com<br />
und geben Sie Ihrem Favoriten<br />
Ihre Stimme, zusammen mit<br />
Ihrem Namen, Flugdaten und<br />
email Adresse<br />
So einfach ist das!!<br />
Sagen Sie “VIELEN<br />
DANK” und teilen Sie den<br />
orangen Spirit mit uns!<br />
* Please refer to<br />
easyJet.com for call<br />
charges. Calls may be<br />
recorded to improve<br />
your experience<br />
when travelling with<br />
or contacting us.<br />
Nous avons<br />
besoin de vous !<br />
Vous pensez que certains<br />
members de l’equipage ont l’esprit<br />
Orange? Faites le nous savoir !<br />
• Trouvez le nom du Cabin<br />
Crew ou du Pilote<br />
• Connectez vous sur spirit.<br />
easyjet.com et votez pour eux,<br />
en précisant les détails du vols,<br />
nom et l’adresse email.<br />
C’est aussi simple que cela !<br />
Dites « MERCI » and<br />
partagez l’esprit orange !<br />
Abbiamo<br />
Bisogno<br />
del tuo aiuto !<br />
Pensi che qualcuno tra il nostro<br />
Equipaggio ha l’ Orange<br />
Spirit ? Allora , facci sapere !<br />
• Allora , scoprite il nome<br />
dell’Assistente di Volo o<br />
Pilota del volo di oggi, anche<br />
chiededolo direttamente<br />
.Saranno felici di darvelo !<br />
• Potete quindi votarlo<br />
visitando il sito spirit.easyjet.<br />
com , inserendo i dettagli<br />
del vostro volo, nome e<br />
indirizzo email.<br />
E’ facilissimo!<br />
Digli “GRAZIE” e dividi<br />
|con noi lo Spirito Orange !<br />
Necesitamos<br />
tu ayuda!<br />
Crees que alguno de nuestra<br />
gente o equipo tiene el Espiritu<br />
Naranja? Avisanos!<br />
• Averigua el nombre de el<br />
Cabin Crew o Piloto<br />
• Haz Log-in en spirit.easyjet.<br />
com y vota por ellos,<br />
dándonos los detalles de tu<br />
vuelo, nombre y dirección<br />
de email.<br />
Tan simple como eso!<br />
Di “gracias” y comparte el<br />
Espíritu Naranja!!<br />
Follow us on Twitter<br />
@easyJetCare<br />
We’re on Twitter – follow<br />
us to receive information<br />
on how to make your<br />
travel experience better.
Your Conduct Onboard<br />
Please consider your fellow<br />
passengers while onboard this<br />
fl ight and in particular the<br />
following information, which is<br />
in place in the interest of your<br />
safety and comfort.<br />
★ Smoking<br />
Smoking on any easyJet<br />
fl ight is strictly forbidden.<br />
★ Alcohol<br />
As explained in our retail<br />
brochure, alcoholic drinks are<br />
available onboard. These are<br />
served at the crew’s discretion to<br />
passengers of legal drinking age.<br />
While onboard, you can consume<br />
alcoholic drinks purchased at the<br />
easyJet Bistro only. Duty-free<br />
alcohol can be purchased from<br />
the easyJet Boutique but cannot<br />
be consumed onboard.<br />
★ Safety Equipment<br />
In accordance with UK and<br />
international law, the captain is<br />
in command of the aircraft and<br />
Quick Facts<br />
★ We have 552<br />
routes, fl y to 130<br />
airports and operate<br />
in 30 countries!<br />
★ easyJet employs<br />
3,848 cabin crew<br />
across the network,<br />
with a further 375<br />
Swiss cabin crew.*<br />
★ We operate 198<br />
aircraft, including 191<br />
Seating capacity<br />
Number of crew<br />
Take-off speed<br />
Cruising speed<br />
Range<br />
every person onboard shall obey<br />
his or her lawful commands. In<br />
fact, captains have the authority<br />
to take any actions they deem<br />
necessary to manage passengers<br />
who are disruptive or cause<br />
problems during fl ights.<br />
Please be reminded not to<br />
tamper with or remove any<br />
safety equipment onboard this<br />
aircraft, including the lifejackets.<br />
Any unauthorised actions<br />
may jeopardise the safety of<br />
other passengers and lead to<br />
prosecution. As explained in the<br />
safety announcement, lifejackets<br />
are provided only in the event of<br />
passengers landing on water.<br />
★ Sharps Boxes<br />
Hypodermic<br />
needles are<br />
permitted onboard<br />
for medical use and<br />
should always be disposed of<br />
Hypodermic<br />
syringes<br />
in a sharps box. If you need to<br />
dispose of a needle, please contact<br />
a member of the cabin crew.<br />
Airbus and 7 Boeing<br />
737s. Our fl eet is one<br />
of the youngest in<br />
the world with an<br />
average aircraft age<br />
of 3.5 years!<br />
★ easyJet has been<br />
unveiled as Business<br />
Traveller Magazine’s<br />
Best Low-Cost<br />
Airline for the 10th<br />
consecutive year.<br />
Boeing 737-700<br />
149<br />
2 pilots and 3 cabin crew<br />
260 km/h<br />
853 km/h<br />
6,115km<br />
★ easyJet has won the<br />
award for Best Airline<br />
Website by Travolution,<br />
the UK’s leading online<br />
multimedia travel<br />
industry publication.<br />
The highly prestigious<br />
★ Use of<br />
Electronic Devices<br />
Electronic devices, including<br />
mobile phones, cannot be used<br />
while walking to/from the<br />
aircraft and must be switched off<br />
during take-off and landing.<br />
However, electronic devices<br />
that you can use during the<br />
fl ight after take-off and before<br />
landing include:<br />
★ Bluetooth devices,<br />
excluding telephones<br />
★ Devices that have a “fl ight<br />
mode” or “fl ight-safe” setting,<br />
provided the fl ight-safe mode<br />
setting is enabled before the<br />
aircraft doors are closed<br />
★ Laptops, including those with<br />
built-in WLAN/Wi-Fi, provided<br />
the WLAN/Wi-Fi is turned off<br />
★ Electronic games, MP3, DVD<br />
and CD players<br />
If in doubt, please keep devices<br />
switched off for the duration<br />
of the fl ight as they may interfere<br />
with our systems<br />
Airbus A319<br />
156<br />
awards recognised<br />
easyJet.com as,<br />
“Straightforward and<br />
easy to use, this much-<br />
improved website<br />
has managed to<br />
integrate discreet<br />
2 pilots and 4 cabin crew<br />
240 km/h<br />
805 km/h<br />
4,830km<br />
PASSENGER | INFO<br />
use of up-selling and<br />
has integrated its<br />
partners in a smart<br />
way, all with some<br />
cutting-edge user<br />
experience tools.”<br />
*correct as of 17 December 2010<br />
Airbus A320<br />
174/180<br />
2 pilots and 4 cabin crew<br />
240 km/h<br />
837 km/h<br />
4,910km<br />
MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 185
NOTICIAS | ESPANA<br />
Siéntete sumiller por unos días<br />
easyJet propone la mejor alternativa<br />
a la rutina y al aburrimiento: un<br />
apasionante viaje sensorial a Burdeos<br />
para los auténticos amantes del vino.<br />
Color, aroma, sabor y textura<br />
excelentes son sinónimo de<br />
denominación de origen Burdeos.<br />
Bañada por el río Garona, esta<br />
encantadora ciudad del sudoeste de<br />
Francia, etapa incondicional del “Tour<br />
de France”, es internacionalmente<br />
conocida por sus selectos productores<br />
de vino fruto de unas condiciones<br />
climatológicas temperadas y la gran<br />
riqueza del terreno.<br />
Cerca de la costa atlántica, Burdeos<br />
se ha convertido en una parada<br />
obligada en las rutas del “enoturismo”<br />
o turismo enológico. Sus paisajes y<br />
bodegas de renombre, y sus museos del<br />
vino ganan adeptos día a día, igual que<br />
Bucarest o Edimburgo, conecta<br />
con la tranquilidad y el relax<br />
Si lo que quieres es desconectar de la<br />
rutina, easyJet te propone dos pociones<br />
totalmente diferentes pero tan atractivas<br />
que no sabrás por cuál decidirte.<br />
Bucarest, capital de Rumanía, es<br />
también denominada “El pequeño París”<br />
por sus grandes avenidas rodeadas de<br />
árboles. De hecho, un ejemplo de su<br />
parecido es la impresionante Avenida<br />
Kisseleff (aun más larga que los famosos<br />
Champs Elysées) con árboles repletos<br />
de fl ores a sus lados y en la que se puede<br />
encontrar un Arco de Triunfo. Pasar unos<br />
días en esta ciudad te encantará y easyJet<br />
te lo pone fácil con vuelos a Bucarest<br />
desde sólo 32,99 euros por trayecto<br />
(tasas incluidas).<br />
186 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />
sus otras exquisiteces arquitectónicas<br />
(anfi teatro, iglesias románicas, teatros<br />
y la catedral), en especial el Puerto de la<br />
Luna, Patrimonio de la Humanidad por<br />
la UNESCO en 2007.<br />
Ideal para los paladares entusiastas,<br />
Burdeos también da la bienvenida al<br />
verano homenajeando a su joya más<br />
preciada con un certamen anual de<br />
renombre mundial, el “Bordeaux fête le<br />
vin” (a fi nales de junio).<br />
El vino es tradición y cultura, es un<br />
placer, con moderación, saludable.<br />
Dejarse seducir por la magia de la<br />
capital del vino, de la cultura y del<br />
deporte ahora es muy fácil con la<br />
nueva ruta de easyJet Madrid-Burdeos<br />
(vuelos desde 24,99 euros por trayecto,<br />
tasas incluidas). A partir de marzo,<br />
easyJet hará las delicias de todos los<br />
amantes del vino.<br />
Por otro lado, visitar la ciudad de<br />
Edimburgo es un lujo para todos los<br />
sentidos. Pasear por sus antiguas calles,<br />
recorrer de una punta a otra la Royal<br />
Mile hasta llegar al precioso castillo de<br />
cuento que preside la ciudad sobre una<br />
colina, son sólo algunas de las muchas<br />
cosas que puedes hacer en Edimburgo<br />
para relajarte. Y, para los amantes de la<br />
naturaleza, nada mejor que ir a pasar el<br />
día en las Highlands, en pleno contacto<br />
con la naturaleza pura. easyJet te ofrece<br />
vuelos desde sólo 27,99 euros por trayecto<br />
(tasas incluidas).<br />
No te lo pienses más y huye del día a<br />
día volando a uno de estos dos increíbles<br />
destinos. ¡No te arrepentirás!<br />
Un destino<br />
exótico, la<br />
receta para<br />
olvidarse<br />
del frío<br />
En esta época nada apetece<br />
más que visitar destinos tan<br />
exóticos como Tánger. Miles<br />
de colores y aromas inundan<br />
la ciudad y la dotan de un<br />
aire especial.<br />
Para ir abriendo boca en<br />
este sorprendente país, te<br />
proponemos visitar el Dar El<br />
Makhzen, antiguo Palacio del<br />
Gobernador hoy convertido<br />
en un museo de las artes<br />
marroquíes, con piezas de todo<br />
el país. Los zocos aguardan la<br />
esencia de la cultura y la magia<br />
de Marruecos. El Zoco Pequeño<br />
es el corazón de la medina y uno<br />
de los lugares con más encanto<br />
para pasear por Tánger. Dentro<br />
del Zoco Grande se encuentra<br />
la mezquita de Sidi Bou Abid,<br />
con un minarete recubierto<br />
de cerámica policromada, y<br />
también podrás acceder al<br />
parque de la Mendoubia, el cual<br />
contiene un drago al que se le<br />
atribuyen 800 años.<br />
Sentarse a tomar un café en<br />
el Café Hafa, que data de 1921,<br />
te relajará a la vez que te podrás<br />
deleitar con las increíbles vistas<br />
del estrecho y la costa española<br />
que se observan desde una de<br />
sus terrazas rodeadas de fl ores.<br />
Sumergirse en una cultura<br />
totalmente diferente es mucho<br />
más fácil de lo que te imaginas:<br />
a tan sólo una hora y media<br />
y con vuelos desde tan sólo<br />
12,99 euros por trayecto (tasas<br />
incluidas) volando con easyJet.
Siete invitati<br />
al matrimonio<br />
dell’anno<br />
Il 29 aprile si celebrano le tanto attese<br />
nozze del principe Williams con la sua amata<br />
Kate Middleton.<br />
Se volete vedere l’evento dal vivo,<br />
easyJet sarà felice di scortarvi fi no a Londra.<br />
All’invito alleghiamo anche nuovi voli da<br />
Bologna, a partire da 29,99€ a tratta tasse<br />
incluse, e da Verona, da 34€ a tratta tasse<br />
incluse. Naturalmente potete approfi ttarne<br />
anche se volete solo visitare la capitale inglese.<br />
Non c’è bisogno di aspettare un’occasione<br />
speciale per farlo.<br />
Un’estate<br />
romantica per<br />
i piu’ fortunati<br />
Se siete così fortunati da abitare nei dintorni<br />
di Brindisi, non dovete certo attendere<br />
l’estate per vedere il mare. E se a baciarvi<br />
non c’è solo la dea bendata, ma anche una<br />
persona in carne e ossa, allora vi suggeriamo<br />
di portarla nella capitale dell’amore. Così<br />
potrete fare quelle tipiche cose da innamorati<br />
a Parigi: passeggiare mano nella mano per<br />
la ville lumière, cenare a base di ostriche e<br />
champagne sulla Tour Eiff el e comprare un<br />
lussuoso souvenir delle gioiellerie di Place<br />
Vendôme. O un lussurioso ricordo di Rue<br />
de Pigalle, il quartiere del Moulin Rouge?<br />
Comunque sia, lasciate a noi il piacere di farvi<br />
un altro regalo: portarvi da Brindisi a Parigi<br />
a partire da 41,99€ a tratta, tasse incluse.<br />
1<br />
easyJet ti ricorda<br />
Puoi portare a bordo un solo bagaglio a mano,<br />
incluse borsette e borse per computer portatili.<br />
MINORCA LA SELVAGGIA<br />
Spiagge: la natura più rigogliosa si trova<br />
a nord dell’isola, a Cala Morell, vicino alle<br />
grotte preistoriche. I surfi sti prediligono<br />
il vento di Cala Tirant, mentre i nudisti si<br />
ritrovano a Cala Coves. Se però per voi la<br />
garanzia di qualità è data dalle spiagge<br />
frequentate dai menorchini, segnatevi<br />
Cala Mesquida.<br />
Locali: facile trovare discoteche sulla<br />
spiaggia. Ma in quanti possono vantarsi<br />
di aver ballato in una grotta naturale<br />
a strapiombo sul mare? Voi potreste<br />
essere tra quei fortunati: andate a<br />
Cova d’en Xoroi. Se invece cercate un<br />
buon posto dove mangiare, spostatevi<br />
verso l’interno e provate la caldereta de<br />
langosta di Ca N’Olga.<br />
Curiosità: sapevate che qui a<br />
Minorca è stata inventata la maionese?<br />
Pare che il suo nome venga proprio da<br />
Mahon, il capoluogo dell’isola. E pare<br />
che già i latini sapessero apprezzarla.<br />
Anche senza hot dog.<br />
Voli: da Milano Malpensa e da<br />
Roma Fiumicino a partire da 26,99€<br />
a tratta, tasse incluse.<br />
MAIORCA L’IMPREVEDIBILE<br />
Spiagge: il litorale più lungo delle Baleari si<br />
trova qui. Si chiama El Arenal e percorrerlo<br />
dall’inizio alla fi ne signifi ca passeggiare<br />
per cinque chilometri di sabbia fi nissima.<br />
Se dopo vi verrà voglia di tuff arvi in mare,<br />
fatelo nelle acque da bandiera blu di Cala<br />
Estància. A Ca’n Pastilla invece si fa scorta<br />
di sole e sobrasada.<br />
NOTIZIE | ITALIA<br />
Le isole dove isolarsi, e non solo.<br />
Abbiamo messo a confronto le Baleari. Quale secondo voi<br />
è la meta giusta per passare l’estate in (buona) compagnia?<br />
Qualunque sia la vostra risposta, il nostro consiglio rimane<br />
sempre lo stesso. Prenotate subito, prima che l’occasione voli via<br />
2<br />
Locali: il bar Abaco è unico nel suo<br />
genere. Non aspettatevi di trovare un<br />
barman al bancone, qui i cocktail si<br />
preparano direttamente nella cucina di<br />
questo palazzo rinascimentale. Preferite<br />
un bicchiere di vino? La Taberna La Boveda<br />
avrà sicuramente qualcosa di vostro gusto.<br />
Non fatevi scoraggiare dalla fi la e vedrete<br />
che la vostra pazienza sarà premiata.<br />
Curiosità: dal 1912 un piccolo treno di<br />
legno percorre i 27 chilometri tra Palma<br />
e Sóller. Fateci un giro e farete un viaggio<br />
anche nel tempo.<br />
Voli: da Milano Malpensa a partire da<br />
26,99€ a tratta, tasse incluse.<br />
IBIZA L’INSONNE<br />
Spiagge: se cercate la sabbia fi ne e bianca,<br />
andate a Talamanca. Se preferite gli scogli,<br />
spostatevi a Cala Xarraca. Di certo se siete<br />
venuti fi no a Ibiza lo avete fatto anche per<br />
la movida. E allora aspettate che cali il sole<br />
sulla Playa d’en Bossa.<br />
Locali: c’è l’imbarazzo della scelta.<br />
Meglio il Privilege, il nightclub più grande<br />
del mondo, l’Amnesia, famosa per i suoi<br />
schiuma-party, o la vista del tramonto<br />
dal Café del Mar? Provatele tutte e poi<br />
giudicate voi stessi. E’ uno sporco lavoro,<br />
ma qualcuno lo deve pur fare.<br />
Curiosità: quasi tutti i vip passano le loro<br />
serate a El Divino. Poi tornano a dormire<br />
all’hotel Pikes. Preparate la macchina<br />
fotografi ca.<br />
Voli: da Milano Malpensa a partire da<br />
24,99€ a tratta, tasse incluse. Da Roma<br />
Fiumicino, Napoli e Venezia a partire da<br />
26,99€ a tratta, tasse incluse.<br />
Evita le code in aeroporto. Fai il check-in online e scegli il baggage<br />
drop-off : puoi imbarcare il tuo bagaglio senza code al check-in.<br />
MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 187
DERNIÈRES INFOS/NEUIGKEITEN | SUISSE/SCHWEIZ<br />
Nouveau: Genève-Saint<br />
Jacques de Compostelle<br />
Afi n de répondre à une<br />
demande toujours croissante en<br />
direction de l’Espagne, easyJet<br />
a décidé d’élargir le nombre<br />
de destinations desservies au<br />
départ de Genève. A partir du<br />
15 mai <strong>2011</strong> il sera possible de<br />
vous envoler directement vers<br />
Saint-Jacques de Compostelle<br />
deux fois par semaine, les jeudis<br />
et dimanches. Les billets sont en<br />
La flotte s’agrandit à Genève<br />
Le 15 mai prochain, easyJet fêtera l’arrivée d’un<br />
nouvel airbus sur le tarmac genevois. Ce douzième<br />
avion confortera easyJet dans sa position<br />
de leader en Suisse Romande et permettra<br />
l’augmentation de fréquences sur Madrid (Jusqu’à<br />
3/jour) ainsi que sur Barcelone (Jusqu’à 4/jour).<br />
Südseestrände und Tavernen<br />
Nur einen Katzensprung von Thessaloniki<br />
entfernt, liegt die Halbinsel Chalkidiki mit ihren<br />
drei Landzungen Kassandra, Sithonia und<br />
Athos. Während die Mönchsrepublik Athos<br />
größtenteils nur von Booten aus bewundert<br />
werden kann, verwöhnen Kassandra und<br />
Sithonia mit südseeartigen Sandstränden und<br />
türkisfarbenem Wasser. Die beschaulichen<br />
Dörfer und traditionellen Tavernen versprühen<br />
griechisches Lebensgefühl und Gastlichkeit. Nicht<br />
selten, entdeckt man hier noch Geheimtipps mit<br />
Sommerziele ab Basel-Freiburg<br />
Kennen Sie schon unsere beliebtesten Sommerziele<br />
ab Basel-Freiburg? Mit Olbia und Cagliari fl iegen wir<br />
im Sommer gleich zwei Städte auf Sardinien an. Die<br />
italienische Mittelmeerinsel mit den ausgezeichneten<br />
Weinen und ihrer sardischen Küche lässt nicht nur<br />
Feinschmeckerherzen höher schlagen! Malerische<br />
Buchten, kristallklares Meer, weiße Sandstrände und<br />
Sonnenschein verwandeln die Insel in ein Paradies<br />
für Wassersportler und Badenixen. Nur durch die<br />
Straße von Bonifatio von Sardinien getrennt, fi ndet<br />
man auf der französischen Nachbarinsel Korsika<br />
eine ursprüngliche, fast wilde Naturlandschaft,<br />
* One-Way, ggf. zuzüglich variabler Gebühren für aufzugebendes Gepäck und Kreditkartenzahlung. Preis nur für ausgewählte Ziele und Flüge. Stand: 17. Januar <strong>2011</strong><br />
188 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />
vente dès maintenant à partir<br />
de 36.95CHF l’aller simple TTC<br />
et complètent une large off re<br />
vers la péninsule Ibérique avec<br />
Madrid, Barcelone, Malaga,<br />
Alicante, Ibiza, Majorque,<br />
Asturies. Ne tardez plus<br />
afi n de bénéfi cier des<br />
prix les plus bas.<br />
En comptabilisant cette machine, easyJet a investi<br />
pas moins de 300 millions de CHF sur le <strong>march</strong>é<br />
Helvétique ces dix-huit derniers mois et créé plus<br />
de 200 emplois. Acteur majeur de l’économie en<br />
Suisse, ce sont plus de 6.6 millions de passagers<br />
qu’easyJet transporte en Suisse chaque année.<br />
vom Chef selbst zubereiteten Spezialitäten auf<br />
der Karte. In Thessalonikis zahlreichen Läden in<br />
Egnatia und auf dem lebhaften Wochenmarkt<br />
fi nden Sie passende Souvenirs für zu Hause,<br />
anschließend laden im historischen Viertel<br />
Ladadika reizvolle Tavernen zum Verweilen ein.<br />
Starten Sie mit bis zu dreimal in der Woche von<br />
Basel-Freiburg nach Thessaloniki ab 36,95 CHF*!<br />
weite Strände, einsame Buchten und facettenreiche<br />
Ortschaften. Mallorca-Liebhaber fl iegen mit uns<br />
nach Palma, in die Hauptstadt der Baleareninsel.<br />
Oder wie wäre es zur Abwechslung in diesem<br />
Sommer mit einem Abstecher in die Hafenstadt<br />
Split an der kroatischen Adria? Flüge ab Basel-<br />
Freiburg in die korsische Hauptstadt Ajaccio, nach<br />
Olbia und Cagliari auf Sardinien sowie nach Mallorca<br />
und Split gibt es bei uns für Frühbucher bereits ab<br />
28,95 CHF*! Übrigens Ihr Sportgepäck können Sie<br />
unter easyJet.com ganz einfach per Mausklick zu<br />
Ihren Flügen hinzubuchen!<br />
Nouveau:<br />
Genève-<br />
Mykonos<br />
Une fois de plus easyJet prouve que nous<br />
sommes le leader romand de l’évasion. Avec la<br />
nouvelle desserte de Mykonos, qui complète<br />
notre off re vers la Crête avec Heraklion, ce ne<br />
sont pas moins de 51 destinations qui sont<br />
opérées depuis la cité de Calvin. Mykonos<br />
sera opéré à partir du 15 juin jusqu’au 17<br />
septembre <strong>2011</strong> jusqu’à deux fois par semaine<br />
les mercredis et samedis. L’aller simple est<br />
accessible à partir de 54.95CHF TTC. Pour<br />
bénéfi cier des prix les plus bas, réservez dès<br />
maintenant sur easyJet.com<br />
Frühlingstipp<br />
– nicht nur für<br />
Romantiker<br />
Prachtvolle Paläste, verwinkelte Gassen,<br />
über einhundertsiebzig Kanäle, hunderte<br />
von Brücken und lauschige Plätze – Venedig,<br />
dessen historischer Kern sich auf über<br />
einhundert kleine Inseln erstreckt, ist unser<br />
Städtetipp – nicht nur für Romantiker!<br />
Markusdom, Dogenpalast und Canale<br />
Grande – dem Zauber der einzigartigen<br />
Szenerie Venedigs berühmtester<br />
Sehenswürdigkeiten, in der Frühlingssonne<br />
aus dem traditionsreichen Caff è Florian<br />
auf dem Markusplatz betrachtet, kann sich<br />
niemand entziehen. Bei einer Gondelfahrt<br />
auf Casanovas Spuren taucht man<br />
unwillkürlich ein in die venezianische<br />
Vergangenheit als führendes Kultur- und<br />
Handelszentrum Europas, bevor man vom<br />
Campanile, dem höchsten Glockenturm<br />
Venedigs, die gesamte Lagune überblickt.<br />
Wir fl iegen Sie bis zu dreimal in der Woche<br />
ab Basel-Freiburg in die romantische<br />
Lagunenstadt. Buchen Sie Ihre Flüge ab<br />
36,95 CHF* einfach unter easyJet.com!
Ostern im sonnigen Süden<br />
Ostern liegt dieses Jahr perfekt für einen Urlaub<br />
im Süden! Ende April lässt sich in Griechenland<br />
und Spanien bereits nach Herzenslust unter<br />
der wärmenden Sonne im Pool oder gar im<br />
Mittelmeer planschen. Bei einem Osterurlaub<br />
in Griechenland können Sie in diesem Jahr die<br />
griechischen Osterbräuche kennen lernen, denn<br />
der griechisch-orthodoxe und unser westlicher<br />
Ostersonntag fallen ausnahmsweise beide<br />
auf den 24. April. Rot gefärbte Ostereier und<br />
Osterbrote sind typisch für das griechische<br />
Osterfest, dessen Höhepunkte die Prozessionen<br />
am Karfreitag-Abend und der Gottesdienst in der<br />
Nacht von Samstag auf Ostersonntag sind. Das<br />
an die Messe anschließende Osterfeuerwerk und<br />
zahlreiche Knallfrösche geben den Startschuss<br />
zum eigentlichen Osterfest. Nach vierzigtägiger<br />
Fastenzeit wird an Ostersonntag und Ostermontag<br />
nach griechischem Gusto mit Tanz und Musik<br />
so richtig gefeiert. Auch in Spanien nimmt die<br />
Semana Santa, die Karwoche, einen bedeutenden<br />
Platz im Jahreskalender ein. Im ganzen Land<br />
fi nden in der Heiligen Woche, vor allem aber an<br />
Karfreitag, beeindruckende Prozessionen statt.<br />
Maskierte Träger mit Christus- und Marienfi guren,<br />
Büßer in langen Kutten, verschleiert mit<br />
Spitzhauben, sowie Trommlergruppen<br />
versammeln sich zu den geheimnisvollen<br />
Umzügen. In Andalusien werden die Prozessionen<br />
von Musikkapellen mit Schlaginstrumenten und<br />
Hörnern begleitet, unterbrochen von arabisch<br />
klingenden Klageliedern. Im andalusischen Malaga<br />
und auf der Ferieninsel Mallorca sind die Oster-<br />
Prozessionen beliebte Touristenattraktionen,<br />
während tagsüber die Frühlingssonne lacht.<br />
Da bleibt ausreichend Zeit für entspannende<br />
Wanderungen in der farbenfroh blühenden Natur,<br />
Sonnenbaden am Meer, Einkaufsbummel auf<br />
bunten Märkten und die mediterrane Küche. Oder<br />
feiern Sie dieses Jahr Ostern doch mal auf den<br />
griechischen Inseln, in Griechenlands Hauptstadt<br />
oder auf Chalkidiki. Fliegen Sie mit uns täglich<br />
von Berlin nach Athen sowie von Berlin und<br />
Dortmund nach Thessaloniki bereits ab 31,99 €*.<br />
Spanien-Liebhaber starten mit uns von Dortmund<br />
und Berlin nach Mallorca und Barcelona sowie<br />
von Berlin nach Malaga und Madrid bereits<br />
ab 39,99€*. Sichern Sie sich Ihre Osterfl üge<br />
frühzeitig unter easyJet.com und entdecken Sie<br />
Warteschlange? Nein, danke!<br />
Haben Sie auch heute schon wieder<br />
genervt in der langen Warteschlange<br />
der Sicherheitskontrolle gestanden und<br />
nervös auf die Uhr geblickt? Das Warten<br />
kann für Sie ein Ende haben! Denn mit<br />
unserem Speedy Boarding Service oder<br />
unserer easyJetPlus!-Karte können<br />
Sie in Hamburg, Köln, Düsseldorf und<br />
München jetzt ganz einfach kostenlos<br />
die Fast- oder Premium-Lane der<br />
NEUIGKEITEN | DEUTSCHLAND<br />
Einmal Tapas<br />
und zurück<br />
Kunterbunt und sonnig präsentiert sich<br />
die spanische Mittelmeerstadt Barcelona<br />
mit Antoni Gaudís phantastischen Bauten<br />
von der Sagrada Familia bis zur Casa<br />
Batlló und coolen Shops mit kreativem<br />
Design. Nach einem Besuch der Museen<br />
Joan Miró und Picasso wird es Zeit für eine<br />
Tapas-Tour durch Picassos Stammkneipe<br />
Els Quatre Gats und die beiden<br />
berühmten Bars El Xampanyet und Euskal<br />
Etxea in den verwinkelten Altstadtgassen.<br />
Die Barcelonesen starten mit Tapas ins<br />
quirlige Nachtleben. Machen auch Sie die<br />
Nacht zum Tag und schnappen Sie sich<br />
Ihre Flüge von Berlin und Dortmund nach<br />
Barcelona ab 41,99 €* unter easyJet.com!<br />
Jetzt neu:<br />
Zagreb<br />
über dreißig weitere attraktive Reiseziele! Wir haben unseren Flugplan ab<br />
Nordrhein-Westfalen für Sie erweitert<br />
und fl iegen Sie jetzt neu bis zu dreimal<br />
in der Woche, jeweils donnerstags,<br />
Sicherheitskontrolle nehmen für eine<br />
schnellere Abfertigung. Und nicht<br />
nur das! Am Flugsteig angekommen,<br />
ersparen Sie sich erneut langes Anstehen<br />
dank bevorzugtem Einsteigen und<br />
gehen entspannt als einer der Ersten an<br />
Bord, wo Sie sich in Ruhe Ihren Sitzplatz<br />
wählen können. Weitere Infos zu Speedy<br />
Boarding und easyJetPlus! fi nden Sie<br />
unter easyJet.com.<br />
dienstags und samstags, von Dortmund<br />
in die kroatische Hauptstadt Zagreb.<br />
Kaff eehäuser und Straßencafés<br />
versprühen in der Stadt am Fuße des<br />
Medvednica-Gebirges mediterranes<br />
Flair und südländisches Lebensgefühl.<br />
Preiswerte Mode und zahlreiche<br />
Einkaufsmöglichkeiten machen Zagreb<br />
zum beliebten Einkaufsziel. Buchen Sie<br />
Ihre Flüge in die Balkanmetropole<br />
ab 26,99 €* einfach unter easyJet.com!<br />
* One-Way, ggf. zuzüglich variabler Gebühren für aufzugebendes Gepäck und Kreditkartenzahlung. Preis nur für ausgewählte Ziele und Flüge. Stand: 24. Januar <strong>2011</strong><br />
MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 189
DERNIERES INFOS | FRANCE<br />
A Vérone, sur les traces<br />
de Roméo et Juliette<br />
Au départ de Paris ou Lyon, à partir de 29€ aller<br />
simple, taxes incluses<br />
Non ! En allant à Venise, vous n’êtes<br />
pas prisonnier de la lagune. Louez<br />
une voiture chez notre partenaire<br />
Europcar à tarif préférentiel et visitez<br />
toute la Vénétie. Si votre romantisme<br />
échevelé s’accommode mal d’un<br />
abandon de la cité des doges, partez<br />
directement à Vérone.<br />
Vous aurez tout loisir de faire<br />
étape à Padoue et de visiter ensuite<br />
les multiples vestiges d’une ville qui<br />
prend ses racines sur les rives du<br />
fl euve Adige.<br />
20 kilomètres de plage<br />
et vous ! Agadir vous attend<br />
Au départ de Paris et Lyon<br />
L’aéroport international d’Agadir est<br />
fréquenté par plus d’un million de visiteurs<br />
par an et Agadir dispose d’une surface<br />
d’accueil impressionnante : il y a de la<br />
place pour tout le monde.<br />
Agadir, ville de 600 000 habitants, offre une<br />
magnifique baie, la plus ensoleillée du monde.<br />
Ses 20 km de plage réjouissent toute l'année<br />
des milliers de vacanciers, même en hiver.<br />
Ville à l'européenne par excellence, Agadir est<br />
190 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />
Admirez les très nombreux<br />
monuments romains puis dirigezvous<br />
avec ferveur vers la maison de<br />
Juliette. La construction remonte au<br />
XIII siècle. La cour intérieure vous<br />
permet d’accéder au fameux balcon<br />
de…Juliette. La maison étant ouverte<br />
du mardi au dimanche de 9h00<br />
à 19h00, vous aurez tout loisir de<br />
revenir avec votre voiture de location<br />
à l’aéroport Marco Polo où votre<br />
avion retour vous attendra en fi n<br />
d’après-midi pour Paris ou Lyon.<br />
dotée du plus grand parc hôtelier du pays.<br />
Dès que vous sortirez de la station<br />
balnéaire, vous cheminerez dans le<br />
Souss, une région particulièrement<br />
fertile, le Verger du Maroc avec des cultures<br />
fruitières et vivrières à perte de vue.<br />
Faites-vous du bien. Réservez dès<br />
maintenant et profi tez de la douceur du<br />
printemps pour une cure de remise en<br />
forme immédiate !<br />
Il y a une vie<br />
après la<br />
Folle Journée<br />
de Nantes<br />
Au départ de Lyon,<br />
à partir de 28€ aller<br />
simple, taxes incluses<br />
La Folle Journée de Nantes est l’un des<br />
événements les plus importants du<br />
calendrier culturel français ; si vous avez<br />
manqué l’édition <strong>2011</strong>, ne pleurez pas. Il<br />
vous reste tellement d’occasions de vous<br />
déplacer à Nantes. Réservez déjà aux prix<br />
les plus attractifs votre billet pour assister à<br />
l’édition <strong>2011</strong> du festival Heures d’été. Vous<br />
y rencontrez dès l’entrée dans l’été, des<br />
personnalités étonnantes, des conteurs,<br />
des musiciens, des écrivains et surtout des<br />
hommes et des femmes de tous pays.<br />
Aux heures d’été développe une ligne<br />
artistique exigeante et originale: présenter<br />
sur scène des projets de rencontres entre<br />
des artistes d’ici et d’ailleurs, des artistes<br />
en situation interculturelle au travers de<br />
créations inédites sensibles et personnelles<br />
et de premières scènes qui affi rment un fort<br />
esprit de découverte. Vous trouverez une ville<br />
transformée où chaque lieu, qu’il soit parc,<br />
place ou cadre plus intime accueille tout au long<br />
de la semaine toutes les cultures du monde.
PHOTOS © ALAMY<br />
Right Royal Destinations<br />
Dig out your fi nest hat, put the champagne<br />
on ice and stock up on those souvenir tea<br />
towels – Royal Wedding fever’s set to sweep<br />
the nation. History will be made on 29 April,<br />
as Prince William marries Kate Middleton at<br />
Westminster Abbey. We’re celebrating the<br />
impending nuptials by looking at destinations<br />
that have a special link to the royal couple,<br />
along with other great reasons to visit them.<br />
LONDON<br />
Over 600,000 people lined the streets of<br />
London for the wedding of Charles and<br />
Diana in July 1981, including Prime Minster<br />
David Cameron, who camped out on the<br />
Mall. Though Dave will enjoy a ringside seat<br />
in Westminster Abbey for Wills and Kate’s<br />
nuptials, you can still have an unforgettable<br />
day by being part of the crowds at this<br />
historic event. With an abundance of pomp<br />
and ceremony, the atmosphere is sure to be<br />
electric – just don’t forget your fl ask of tea<br />
and sandwiches.<br />
We fl y to London from Belfast International,<br />
Belfast City, Edinburgh, Glasgow and<br />
Newcastle from £29.99*<br />
ST ANDREWS (EDINBURGH)<br />
Take a trip to where the fairytale began:<br />
Scotland’s picturesque St Andrews. Kate<br />
met her Prince Charming while studying at<br />
its historic university and she wasn’t the<br />
only girl to graduate with fi rst-class honours<br />
in the love department. A recent survey found<br />
10% of St Andrew’s alumni married a fellow<br />
student, making it the “Best Matchmaking<br />
University in the UK”. The town is also famous<br />
for its golf courses, which are sure to provide<br />
a perfect getaway for anyone who needs<br />
a break from the bunting.<br />
We fl y to Edinburgh from Gatwick, Luton,<br />
Stansted, Bristol and Belfast International<br />
from £23.99*<br />
IBIZA<br />
Kate wowed onlookers as she soaked up<br />
the Balearic sunshine in a white bikini while<br />
holidaying with Wills and pals in 2006. Though<br />
the elusive twosome spent most of their time<br />
onboard a private yacht, it’s believed that they<br />
enjoyed nights out on the island’s legendary<br />
party scene. Get your groove on in the White Isle<br />
this summer and dance till dawn and beyond at<br />
the likes of Pacha, Space and DC10.<br />
We fl y to Ibiza from Gatwick, Luton, Stansted,<br />
Belfast International, Bristol, Glasgow, Liverpool<br />
and Newcastle from £40.99*<br />
KLOSTERS (GENEVA)<br />
Royal watchers round the world felt a fl urry of<br />
excitement when Wills and Kate were pictured<br />
skiing at Klosters with Prince Charles in March<br />
2008. Though the couple had visited the<br />
resort numerous times before, many correctly<br />
guessed the presence of Wills’s father meant<br />
that wedding bells were imminent. Slope off and<br />
enjoy the last of the snow in this pretty Swiss<br />
Village, or visit in summertime and explore its<br />
grassy meadows on horseback.<br />
We fl y to Geneva from Gatwick, Luton, Stansted,<br />
Belfast International, Bristol, Birmingham,<br />
Edinburgh, Glasgow, Leeds Bradford, Liverpool,<br />
and Newcastle from £29.99*<br />
GIBRALTAR<br />
Sitting at the entrance to the Mediterranean Sea,<br />
the Rock of Gibraltar proved the perfect launch<br />
pad for Charles and Diana’s honeymoon cruise<br />
on the royal yacht Britannia. The newlyweds’ visit<br />
created hysteria in this fi ercely patriotic British<br />
territory, with almost all of its residents lining<br />
the harbour to bid the couple farewell. Hop over<br />
to Gibraltar and enjoy its colonial charm and<br />
favourable climate while meeting its famous<br />
Barbary apes, the only wild primates in the<br />
whole of Europe.<br />
We fl y to Gibraltar from Gatwick and Liverpool<br />
from £33.99*<br />
* Prices are single including taxes. Correct as of<br />
14 January for travel between 27 March<br />
and 29 October<br />
NEWS | UK<br />
New Routes<br />
for Spring<br />
Bologna from 28 March<br />
Though often overlooked by<br />
visitors in favour of its more<br />
famous neighbours, the small yet<br />
perfectly formed city of Bologna<br />
is well worth a visit. Spend time<br />
exploring its grand opera house<br />
and quirky street arcades, or<br />
make a wish at the Fontana di<br />
Nettuno. And no visit to Bologna<br />
is complete without experiencing<br />
the local cuisine; an abundance<br />
of creamy pasta sauces make<br />
Bologna “Italy’s Cuisine Capital”.<br />
We fl y to Bologna from Gatwick<br />
from £29.99**<br />
Seville from 16 April<br />
Nestled in the heart of Andalucìa,<br />
Seville is famed throughout Spain<br />
for its springtime celebrations.<br />
Semana Santa honours Holy<br />
Week – the last week of Lent<br />
and the most important in the<br />
Catholic calendar. From 18–24<br />
April a series of street processions<br />
take place across the city as<br />
sevillanas commemorate the<br />
fi nal days of Jesus in a sombre<br />
yet beautiful style. Then it’s time<br />
to party, as the Feria de Abril rolls<br />
into town from 3–8 May. A river of<br />
sherry fl ows as fl amenco dancers<br />
and musicians provide round-theclock<br />
entertainment at this world-<br />
famous spring fair. Olé!<br />
We fl y to Seville from Gatwick<br />
from £29.99**<br />
**Prices are single including taxes.<br />
Correct as of 14 January for travel<br />
between 27 March and 29 October,<br />
though some launch dates may vary<br />
MARCH 11 | TRAVELLER | 191
NEWS | BUSINESS TRAVEL<br />
DON’T CHANGE<br />
THE WAY YOU<br />
DO BUSINESS,<br />
CHANGE YOUR<br />
BUSINESS FLIGHTS<br />
As one of the largest<br />
airlines in Europe,<br />
easyJet offers<br />
inexpensive business<br />
travel on more of the<br />
top 100 European routes<br />
than any other airline.<br />
What’s more, our highfrequency<br />
flights and<br />
our network of 500<br />
routes across 30<br />
countries means you<br />
now have more choice<br />
and flexibility. So next<br />
time book at easyJet.com<br />
or via your business<br />
travel agency for<br />
business flights at<br />
economy prices.<br />
192 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />
Why does flying with us<br />
make business sense?<br />
No weight limit on hand baggage – we won’t charge<br />
you for hand baggage, no matter how much it weighs<br />
We fly you to main airports – save time and expense<br />
by flying direct to the main airport close to the heart<br />
of your destination<br />
Get an earlier flight home for free – we know you’ve<br />
got a busy schedule, so if you get to the airport early<br />
and there’s space available, we’ll get you on an earlier flight<br />
home at no additional cost<br />
Speedy Boarding – for a small fee you can beat the<br />
queues and be among the first to board<br />
NEW Flexible Fare – unlimited free date changes within<br />
a four-week period, plus additional benefits like free<br />
Speedy Boarding. Exclusively available to bookings made via<br />
GDS or Travel Management Company (not yet on easyJet.com)<br />
Find out more good reasons to fly with<br />
us on business at easyJet.com/business
Hitting the slopes?<br />
Save time buy your Ski Hire<br />
and Shuttle Bus Transfer on board<br />
Discovery Skis, Skis Boots<br />
& SnowBoa<br />
SnowBoard Hire<br />
3 Day Adult Hire £54.00 £54. €69.50<br />
6 Day Adult Hire £93.00 £93.0 €120.00<br />
Use on board receipt to redeem ffor<br />
equipment hire<br />
See page 7 in Bistro & Boutique Bo for resorts.<br />
Make it a deal!<br />
Muffin Deal<br />
Any Starbucks hot drink<br />
and a Muffin<br />
£4.00 €4.50<br />
SAVE up to 60p €1.00<br />
Hot Meal Deal<br />
A Chicago Town Pizza. OR a<br />
Croque Monseiur (Ham/Cheese melt),<br />
a can of Beer and a Chocolate<br />
Bar (Mars, Snickers, Milka or Kit Kat)<br />
£7.60 €9.50<br />
Shuttle Bus Transfers<br />
One way Airport to Ski Resort<br />
From €38.00 per passenger<br />
Use on board receipt as travel ticket.<br />
See page 7 in Bistro & Boutique<br />
for meet and greet points<br />
and travel zones.<br />
A Airport Transfers er<br />
Breakfast Deal<br />
Any Starbucks hot drink<br />
and Bacon Baguette<br />
£6.00 €7.50<br />
Sandwich Deal<br />
Sandwich, a soft drink<br />
(Vittel Water, Pepsi, Pepsi Max, 7UP)<br />
and Pringles<br />
£6.00 €7.50<br />
SAVE £1.00p €1.50 SAVE up to 50p 50 cents SAVE 60p €1.00<br />
SEE BISTRO & BOUTIQUE Subject to availability and available on selected aircraft only. Alternative meal deals available on Swiss based aircraft
LAST WORD | GLASGOW<br />
“Nelson Mandela has a Glasgow street named after him and Billy Connolly has the<br />
Freedom of the City, but I have a curry named after me! The Des McLean korma<br />
can be found at the Nakodar Grill in Dennistoun. It’s a real Indian/Scottish place,<br />
with unusual dishes such as haggis pakoras. Owner Johnny Kumar and family make<br />
the best Indian food in Glasgow, which is why you’ll fi nd me here most weekends.”<br />
McLean headlines the opening night of the Magners Glasgow International Comedy Festival on 17 March; glasgowcomedyfestival.com<br />
194 | TRAVELLER | MARCH 11<br />
Comedian<br />
Des McLean<br />
on Glasgow<br />
PHOTO © MICHAEL THOMAS JONES
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